GROWING HOUSEPLANTS

Easily and Successfully

By

Kent Killen

Copyright 2000

This book is copyrighted by Kenton G. Killen. No

Copying, duplicating, electronic storage and
retrievable or any other system yet to be invented
is allowed without express written permission from
Kenton G. Killen or whomever the copyright may
hereinafter be assigned. Copyright date 2000.

Dedicated To:
My two children Tina and Gene
Dale and Loriann who made me Family
The Jacksons for all those wonderful holiday
meals
Ray and Regina who were friends
when I really needed friends
Dr. Toth who kept me well enough to write.

GROWING HOUSE PLANTS

Easily & Successfully
by
KENT KILLEN
PREFACE

Did you ever walk into a room or

someones house and get the feeling that it was
bare? Did a room ever feel impersonal or dead
like a cheap motel room?
It may have felt that way because there
were no living plants in the room. Nothing makes
a home feel more lived in than a beautiful, well
maintained plant. It can be a plant with beautiful
flowers or a lush foliage plant. Either says, Hey,
I live hear and I enjoy life!
Although the homes and apartments of
today are sealed and barricaded more than the
ancient cavemans dwelling, some plants may
be grown in almost any living environment.
Another problem that many of you will need to
overcome is lack of time and space to grow the
plants. The time and space constraints can be
solved by selecting plants which will fit into your
schedule.

The main requirements to succeeding in

growing attractive plants are variety, water,
temperature, soil, air, and pest control.
Here is to your success!

VARIETIES
Before you rush down to the store and buy many
beautiful plants which will surely die, study the
requirements for growing in this book and then
consult the table in back to select plants which
will fit your lifestyle. If you are subject to be sent
on assignment for a week at a time, do not pick
a plant that needs watering each day.
To make the choice easier, and to see which will
be most likely to grow, the most common plants
will be divided into seven groups.
Flowering plants
Annual flowering plants
Hardy flowering plants
Bulb plants
Foliage upright plants
Foliage vining plants
Succulents and Cacti

LIGHT
Before we get to the different types of the plants,
we will cover the growing requirements. We are
starting with light because that is usually the
biggest problem in modern houses and
apartments.
All true plants require light in order to live and
grow. Most plants need to be protected from
direct sunlight. If they grow outdoors, why do we
need to protect them? Light coming through
glass can act as if it is coming through a
magnifying glass and burn the plant. Other
plants normally grow in the shade.
Houseplants have been bred to require less
light. This does not mean No Light. Generally,
plants will manufacture food and grow better if
more light is available. However, we face
another contradiction. Shady plants can be
retarded in their growth if given too much light.
Normally, flowering plants need more light.
Geraniums, Begonias, Cyclamens, and
Chrysanthemums do best with more light such
as a south window which gets more hours of
sun. (In the future, I shall type Mums. That is
too many letters.) Plants grown for foliage will
usually do better with less light. Palms, ferns,
7

vines, etc. should not be placed in direct

sunlight. Nature can break these rules. I have
wild fern growing in the full sun all the day. It is
growing wild. I would never try to grow this as a
house plant and put it in a bright window.
West windows should be avoided unless you
have some type blocking curtain or shade. Look
out the window at 3:00 in the afternoon. You will
see how strong the sun could be on fragile
plants, even flowering ones.
Except for certain foliage plants, North windows
do not have enough light for growing.
Just from checking the available windows, you
can see where you are starting to limit the plants
that can be grown successfully. You need to do
this check with each of the requirements.
For an additional investment, you can purchase
lights that will make it possible to grow lush
plants such as African Violets. These lights
make it feasible to grow plants in a windowless
basement. I have seen plants grown with lights
only and then win awards at shows.

MOISTURE
Most plants need a moist atmosphere to attain
healthy development. This presents a problem
in most dwellings, as the heating and cooling is
designed to create a dry atmosphere. Humans
need a dry atmosphere to prevent mildew and
other fungus. A good compromise for most
plants is to spray the leaves once a day. DO
NOT Spray African Violets or any fuzzy leafed
plants.
You can have zone humidity by using a plastic
or aluminum tray and filling with coarse pebbles
to a depth of about two inches. Place the pots
on top of this gravel. Any over watering will be
caught by the tray and evaporate upward to the
plants. If the plants are potted in a real clay pot
(not the fake look-alikes) it will absorb some
moisture from the rocks and pass it through to
the soil.
As you read the following, keep in mind that
over watering will rot roots:
An ample supply of water should be furnished
the plant at the roots. Plants growing in the dry
conditions of the home lose water through the
leaves. They lose more water than the ones
growing outdoors because of the low humidity.
This must be replaced by the roots. The water in
9

the soil serves two functions. The first is to

supply water to the plant tissues. The second is
to dissolve the nutrients from the soil so that the
plant may take them into the root system and
use them.
Lack of water causes the plant to wilt. The
internal water pressure is what holds the new
growth upright. After wilting, the plant begins to
starve from lack of food.
Too much water will cause the plant to
suffocate. The plant must have oxygen to the
roots. When a plant is continually over watered,
the oxygen is driven from the soil and no air
cavities are left to hold any oxygen. The oxygen
contained in the water will be used up quickly.
Decay of the roots and the death of the plant will
follow.
The ideal condition for the majority of plants is
the soil condition shortly after watering. The
excess water has drained away and pulled air
into the soil as it drained. The soil will be damp
and have plenty of oxygen. If that is the case,
why not water twice a day? Hydroponics culture
does just that. However in soil culture, over
watering and lack of oxygen will result as the soil
will hold more and more of the water.
There is no one rule for watering plants. Water
a plant when it needs it. Water well and let it dry
10

before watering again seems to work most of the

time, but not all. Frequent small waterings do not
seem to work as well. More contradictions:
Plants in small containers usually need watering
more often. Flowers in clay pots will need
watering more than flowers in plastic pots. The
clay allows moisture to evaporate while plastic
does not. More plants die from over watering
when grown in plastic pots. Those plants in
boxes will not need to be watered as often. The
size of the plant in relation to the container will
also determine how quickly the plant runs out of
water. All of this brings us back to Water when
they need it.

MORE WATERING RULES

Note the texture of the plant stems and leaves.
The harder the foliage, the less water needed. I
killed a nice rubber plant from over watering. I
watered it each time I watered some other
plants. This does not work. Plants like African
Violets must be watered more often, as they
have softer leaves.
Slower growing plants need less water than fast
growing plants. Plants such as the hydrangeas
need the extra water in order to grow rapidly.
Slower growing plants such as primroses, will
need less water. They can be damaged by over
watering.
11

Leaf area is another factor in water usage. A

broad, soft leafed plant will use more water.
The native habitat of the plant is another
indicator of water needed. The desert area
plants, such as the cacti and succulents require
less water. This is especially true during winter.
The humidity of the room will have a large effect
on the frequency of watering. The lower the
humidity, the faster the plant will dry out.
In the resting stage, plants need very little
moisture. This is true of the palms and other
tropical plants which grow very slowly during
their winter resting stage. Plants with broad,
leathery leaves need a moist atmosphere, but
must have a well drained soil. Ferns require lots
of water, they are mostly water, but must have a
well drained soil. Some plants will thrive under
too much water - if they get oxygen in the water.
The elephant ear and umbrella plant are two that
fit this description.
When the top of the soil is dry, water thoroughly.
Water enough that the water goes through the
soil and flows out the drainage holes in the
bottom. The extra water will wet the soil and dry
out the trapped air which has been depleted of
oxygen. The weight of the water acts as a
suction and brings fresh air into the soil around
roots of the plants.
12

The shortcut of setting plants in water and letting

the water be drawn to the surface through the
pot is not advised.
Automatic watering pots are available at the
plant stores. They are not as good as the soak
and dry method for most plants. They work
quite well for starting seeds and for plants such
as African violets. They also work better than
forgetting the plant and letting it die. They
consist of a wick which hangs in a container of
water. Make sure the wick is of glass or some of
the plastic wicks. Cotton will rot. The wick draws
the water from the container into the soil.
Foliage plants have a tendency to grow too
rapidly if given the optimum amount of water. To
avoid this, keep the soil just wet enough for
health leaves that are not wilted. In many cases,
this means watering only once a week.

13

TEMPERATURE
Most foliage plants grow well in the home as the
temperature is about the same as that preferred
in the natural setting. Tropical flowering plants
also do well in warm rooms. This may be the
reason that African Violets are so popular. Since
temperatures in the home are at 70 degrees or
above, many of the cool plants do not do well.
Plants such as hydrangeas, cinerarias,
cyclamens, and primroses will not do well. They
prefer temperatures of 65-70 in the day and 5560 at night. During the winter, you can make the
plants last longer by moving them to a cooler
room at night. The flowers on most plants will
last longer if you place them in a cooler location
at night.
On cold nights, do not leave plants near
windows.. If you must do so, put a curtain or
layers of paper between the plants and the
window. Heat will radiate from the leaves to the
cold glass. African Violets are very sensitive to
this effect.
Plants will not do well if you place them near
radiators, heaters or hot air vents. The extra
heat causes drying of the leaves.

14

Fumes from coal burning or manufactured gas

will injure plants. Fumes from natural gas does
not harm most plants.

15

SOIL
If everything else is ideal and the soil is poor,
plants will not grow. If the ph is close to what a
plant needs, the plants can adapt to many
different soils. The soils must contain the raw
materials and water for the plants to
manufacture the food they need. They field of
hydroponics does not use soil at all. The food is
supplied with the water.
For house plants, a good mixture is one-half
garden loam, one-fourth sharp sand, and one
fourth peat. The loam contains some humus and
clay. The sand is to provide drainage and keep
the soil from packing or caking and cracking.
Peat supplies some food value and water
holding. The easiest way to get good soil is to go
to a reputable garden center. Buy soil that is
labeled sterile (most will be).
Add one-half teaspoon of a complete plant food
to a six inch pot when potting a plant. A
complete plant food is one which contains the
three main growing elements. They are nitrogen,
phosphorous, and potassium in a 1:1:1 ratio.
Many companies add trace elements. One
vitamin tablet to a gallon of water will supply all
the trace elements needed.

16

Every brand of plant food will say they are the

best. Forget brands and purchase by the total
units of fertilizer. If the bag says 10:10:10 and
cost $1.20, this is .40 per unit. Divide total units
(30) into price (1.20). Buy the plant food with the
lowest unit cost. To paraphrase: phosphorous is
phosphorous is phosphorous.
If you buy plants from a reputable dealer, the
soil mixture they are in will supply food for
awhile. When it is depleted, buy plant food and
apply according to directions. Never apply
fertilizer to a dry plant. Always make sure the
soil is moist before feeding.

17

POTTING
Potting will be needed for one of three reasons.
Potting newly rooted cuttings or seedlings.
Potting plants brought in from outdoors.
This can get to be a big operation in the
fall.
Transferring plants from one pot to
another. This is done if you are doing root
divisions or if you have plants that are root
bound.
When potting seedlings, rooted cuttings, or slips
(such as yams), use a rich soil to which fertilizer
has not been added. Strong fertilizer will injure
the fresh, tender roots. This is what a grower
means when he says the fertilizer burned the
roots.
Start with a two and one-half inch pot. Prepare
the pot by placing a broken pot over the bottom
hole. Place this with the curved side up to form
a dome. This is for drainage. I can never find a
broken pot when I need it. I use coarse stone. I
put the larger pieces (preferably broken) stacked
around and over the hole. Make sure one does
not seal the hole. Then I use smaller pieces to
make a smooth layer. Broken clay bricks work
well also. Place a little sand over this. Then
place a layer of the potting soil. Put the seedling
in the center and gently put soil around the plant
18

and the roots. Fill to within one-half inch of the

top. Firm gently. Soak completely. Add soil if
needed. Place in a shady spot until the roots
become established. This usually takes one
week. Then give them sunlight. Mist the leaves
the first few days.
Put plants gathered from the garden in a pot
large enough for the root ball and soil lifted with
the plant. The rest is the same as for seedlings.
When repotting from one to another, it is
common practice to go one size larger. If you go
too much larger, the plant will not do as well.
Over potting usually results in leaf yellowing and
the plants do not develop. This is because the
pot holds too much water that is not used by the
plant. The excess water drives out the air.
Let the plant dry out some.
Place the hand over the soil
with the main stem of the
plant between the index and
middle finger. I am righthanded so I use the left
hand. You do what is
comfortable. Turn the pot
upside-down and use the
other hand as a guide. Tap
the pot sharply on a bench or fence post. The
19

plant should slide out into the hand holding the

plant.
Re-pot when the plant becomes root bound.
When the roots are coming out the drain hole or
when they are an entwined mass after taking out
of the pot, they are root bound.
Prepare the pot as described earlier. If you have
some, put crushed charcoal in the bottom. This
keeps the soil sweet. Break off the top edge to
round the dirt ball. Scrape off the very top layer
of dirt on the old plant. Gently immerse the root
ball in water for about a minute. This will make
sure that the roots are truly wet when
transplanted. Finish re-potting as described for
seedlings.
Glazed or painted clay pots, ceramic pots or
plastic pots are attractive, but special care must
be given when watering. Since there is almost
no evaporation, the drainage must be excellent.
Stir the soil surface for better aeration.
Old pots should be soaked in a bleach water to
kill fungus and other plant diseases. Rinse
thoroughly before using. Treat like a painted pot
as older pots lose their porosity.
Metal containers are pretty, but never pot
directly in a metal container. If you must have a
plant in that beautiful brass container from Aunt
20

Mildred (The one with all the money and no

heirs), pot the plant in a clay pot. Insert the clay
pot in the brass container. Support the pot from
the bottom with two or three inches of charcoal.
Be very careful when watering.
DOUBLE POTTING - Plants in a clay pot are
put into a larger water tight container. The clay
pot is supported by two inches of peat moss and
surrounded by a layer of peat moss. Water is
applied only to the peat moss. If the peat moss
is kept wet but not soaked, the clay pot and the
soil there-in will absorb the water from the peat
moss. This idea is the forerunner of the wick
system mentioned earlier.

21

PRUNING AND PINCHING

When a plant, or even one branch of a plant,
starts to become long and spindly, the cure is
pruning or pinching back. To many people.
Pruning means cutting a woody outdoor plant
with knives, shears, etc. while pinching back
refers to pinching off new growth with the
fingers. The result is the same. The reason for
either is to have a bushy, stocky, healthy plant.
When transplanting plants in the fall, it is a good
idea to cut back the top growth to a few joints
from the bottom.
If a plant does not get enough light, it tells you
by becoming spindly and growing toward the
light it is getting. Plants such as this need to be
pinched back. If practical, change the lighting
conditions.
Most vines will benefit from pinching back when
young. This will result in more growth from the
base and healthier plants. Grape ivy, Pothos,
wandering jew and others will make better plants
if kept trimmed.

22

SUMMER CARE
Many gardeners put the house plants back into
the garden during the summer. They will get
added strength if this is done.
Since outdoor gardening is not the subject of
this book, we will not cover this issue. Just
remember that the sun gets hotter as summer
progresses and plant put in sunlit windows can
be severely damaged. You may want to move
them or shade them.

PROPAGATION
Plants may be propagated by seeds, leaf
cuttings, stem cuttings(slips), root divisions,
portions of leaves, eyes (potatoes), air layering,
and runners.
Seed planting is the method for the majority of
plants grown. This is not always true of house
plants. The seeds should not be too old. Light is
usually detrimental to germination. One
Christmas, a five year old was explaining this.
She had seen a TV program. She had
memorized all of the program. I wish more kids
watched this kid of program and less of the other
kinds. The seed should be planted to the depth
called for on the seed package. If no package is
handy, try twice the thickness of the seed. Very
fine seed such as begonia or cockscomb should
23

not be covered. Water them in with a fine spray.

The soil should be damp - not wet.
The best results I had was using the thin,
disposable, rose boxes from a florist supply.
One hundred was very inexpensive at the time.
After the seeds were planted and watered, the
box was closed and the moisture was trapped
in. I did not need to water again. The trays were
covered with black garbage bags to block light.
By lifting the bags, I could easily see the
progress of the seeds. It worked great. I used
industrial mixing sand with a small amount of
fertilizer in the water. When they sprouted, the
plastic box became a miniature greenhouse.
After sowing, mist the soil with a fine spray. If
you can not get the rose boxes, cover with
glass, plastic or even paper. You want to keep
the moisture on the seeds and avoid watering
again. Remove the covering after the seeds
sprout.
Most instructions say to transplant to other soil
as soon as the first two true leaves appear. I
prefer to wait until four or six appear. With the
plastic box method, this works well. When you
do transplant, space one to two inches apart.
Use a soil with 60% sand and 40% potting soil.
You will need to move them again and a heavier
soil will damage the roots. You will have very
good results if you use a plastic knife from a fast
24

food place to lift the plants. Simply insert the

knife under the small plant and lift. Place in new
soil and gently slide off the knife by using a
second knife. Pull the new soil around the plant
and mist until very moist. Place in a shady place
for about three days. After they grow several
more leaves, transplant into individual pots.
This section would not be complete if I did not
mention Jiffy Pots. This is a neat commercial
product which is great for a few seeds. The Jiffy
Pot Number Seven comes 25 to the pack.
Decide how many seeds you are planting.
Figure about three to the pot. They may not all
sprout. Soak the number of pots you will need.
They expand forever. They form a cavity in the
top. Put seeds in cavity with some sand (some
people use soil). Place the pots in a plastic or
aluminum tray. I use styrofoam plates or the
styro trays in which food is sold. Keep pots
damp by putting water in tray - not on pots. After
the seeds sprout, wait until roots come through
the Jiffy Pot. Transplant.
CUTTINGS
In colonial times, a visit among neighbors often
meant a gift of a begonia or patience plant
cutting. They had their tea and the recipient
would lovingly tend the stem or leaf until it
flowered. Stem cuttings are usually rooted in
sharp and that is kept moist. Many will root and
become complete plants if inserted in a
25

container of water. Geraniums, wax begonias,

coleus, ivy and yams (sweet potatoes) are a few
of the plants that will. A great project for school
children is the sweet potato. Buy a small yam at
the store. Put the pointed end down in a narrow
container. Fille with water until only about threefourths of the yam is not covered. Set in a warm,
well shaded place. It will sprout in about a week.
The plants grow rapidly. When they are about
nine inches long they are what we called slips.
If you continue watering, the vines can reach
over six foot long. This is covered again in this
book with a picture.
Removing the yam and cutting into it to removes
each plant will yield plants that will grow in soil
An aside here - George Washington Carver is
remembered for the many uses he discovered
for the peanut. Not many people realize that he
also found over 260 uses for the yam. He was a
very smart man.
STEM CUTTINGS: Many plants from begonia to
Azalea will root and grow from stem cuttings.
Begonias and softer plants will root if you simply
cut the end of a stem and place the cut in in wet
sand. Keep out of direct sunlight. Wait about a
week and check to see if roots have formed.
Gently tug on the plant. If it resist, roots have
formed. Wait another week and transplant. If it
26

pulls out, stick it back in the soil and wait until

the roots do form.
Sections of plants such as dumbcane, ti, and
dracaena will root if laid in damp sand. Cut
sections several inches long. Make sure the
have bumps or undeveloped leaf buds. Cover
about 90% of the stem with damp sand. New
plants and roots will form in several weeks. Each
new plant can be severed from the stem and
planted separately.
Plants such as Azalea work best if a fork is cut.
Leave a few leaves on the smaller limb. Dip the
fresh cut bottom end in a rooting medium. The
fork is then placed in potting soil mixed with
sand. Put deep enough so that the joint of the
two limbs is covered. Keep the medium damp
until new leaves appear.
LEAF CUTTINGS - African Violets can be
rooted from the leaves. Each leaf must have at
least one-half inch of leaf stem attached. Insert
the leaf stem in damp sand. Roots will form in
about four weeks. Small plantlets will start to
form at the base of the leaf. This sometimes
takes as long as two months. Cut each new
plant from the starting leaf and plant separately.
Another method is to cover a glass filled with
water with plastic wrap or wax paper. Hold the
wrap or paper on with a rubber band. Punch a
27

hole for each leaf. Insert the leaf stem through

the hole into the water. Keep in bright light. After
the roots and plantlets form, plant and cut off the
starter leaf.
Try Snake-plant. Lay out a large leaf. Cut at two
inch intervals. Mark the former top end of each
piece. Insert the bottom end in damp sand. Each
piece will form a new plant.
A rex Begonia leaf will root if placed flat on
damp sand and soil mixture. Use 60% sand 40%
potting soil. Have the sand damp and keep out
of direct sun. Use hairpins over some small
veins to hold it down. Make a few cuts at the
main vein. This is where it will root and new
plants form.
Each leaf rosette of echeveria will root if twisted
from the main stem and placed in the rooting
medium.
The ice plant propagates very easily. Simply trim
off the excess and chop into very small pieces.
Scatter over the soil and cover with more soil.
Keep damp and each piece will root.
In order to avoid watering often, cover the
rooting medium with a plastic cover or use
plastic trays and covers or pick up an old
aquarium at a garage sale. Cover the aquarium
28

with a piece of window glass. Dampen soil. Do

not soak.
RUNNERSFlame violet, spider plant, strawberry geranium
and others put out runners. Small plantlets form
at the tip of these runners. These are easy to
root. Pin them to the soil until they develop
roots. Cut the runner and pot the new plant.
ROOT DIVISIONS - This applies to plants that
are usually called bulb plants.
TRUE BULBS - A true bulb is like a daffodil or
onion. It has a short underground stem
surrounded by fleshy leaves. This is the bulb.
The fleshy leaves store the food and protect the
unseen plant.
BULBLETS - These are sometimes called
offshoots. They are formed by the lateral bud on
the basal plate. Formed from true bulbs only.
BULBILS - These are small bulbs produced in
axils of leaves (like lilies), flower clusters or on
stems.
CORMS AND CORMELS - Plants such as the
Gladiolus are planted with corms and form new
corms and many cormels at root level. These
cormels should be gathered in the fall. Place in
refrigerator for at least 30 days before
29

replanting. It will usually be two years before

they will bloom.
RHIZOMES - These are creeping underground
stems as in the Iris and Calla. Because of food
storage, they are sometimes very thick. Foliage
leaves and the flower stalks arise from buds on
the top side. Roots project below. Cut sections
so that each section has a growth bud. Pot for a
new plant.
TUBEROUS RHIZOME - This is a slender
underground stem. It is basically a rhizome that
is thickened at the end into a tuber like section
for storing food. The term rootstock is often used
for a tuberous rhizome. Cut the same as for
rhizome for propagating.
TUBER - The short enlarged stem is for food
storage. It may be flattened (tuberous begonia),
rounded (potato) or irregular (ranunculus).
Tubers do not creep like a rhizome. Tubers have
growth buds called eyes. Divide into sections
having at least one eye. Let pieces dry until a
scab forms then pot.
TUBEROUS ROOTS - Yams are an example.
These are real roots (not stems) with thickened
food storage structures. They have no growth
buds in the tuber. Growth buds are at one end
as part of the old stem base. Can be divided as
30

long as each piece has a growth bud. Other

examples are Dahlias and the Gloriosa Lily.
AIR LAYERING - This is a great way to multiply
woody plants. Cut a downward slice through the
bark and into the stem. Hold the cut open with a
toothpick. Wrap with well dampened sphagnum
moss. Wrap with a clear plastic. Tie the plastic
tightly above and below the moss. When healthy
roots have protruded through the moss, cut off
stem below the moss. Remove plastic and most
of the moss. Replant.

PESTS
Damping-off fungus attacks seedlings, but if
proper care is taken, it will not be a problem in
the home. The biggest factor is to have sterilized
starting medium. Next - Do not over water.
Due to the dry conditions in the average house,
stem rot and leaf spots do not secure a foothold.
Should any of the foregoing be a problem, talk to
your local plant supplier. He will have the very
latest fungicide to cure the problem.
Insects cause more trouble with house plants.
Insects fall into chewing and sucking insects.
CHEWING INSECTS bite out parts of plants.
When this occurs, sprays or dusts are available
to easily eradicate them.
31

SUCKING INSECTS are a large and varied

group. You have aphids, mites, red spiders,
white fly, mealy bugs and scales as a sample.
No one treatment will control all of them.
Malathion will control most of them. See the
local nursery and ask if something better is
available and hopefully it is also environmentally
friendly.
The aphid is a small green or brown insect.
Powered tobacco dust is sometimes used for
control. Whatever you use, it must get on the
aphid. Several application will ne necessary.
Mite damage causes the curling of leaves and
curling of buds.
Red Spider feed on the underside of leaves.
This produces a speckled appearance on the
leaves. Both insects will eventually kill the plant.
Whatever spray you buy, verify that it is safe for
the home. One pest control expert in this area
sprayed cotton poison in a childrens nursery.
The children are still being monitored and the
building was ordered torn down.
WHITE FLY is a serious pest. It flies on
approach so it is difficult to spray. It attacks
many plants but especially salvia, cineraria.
Ageratum, fuchsia, and some geraniums.
MEALY BUGS are soft, slow moving insects.
They are found on ferns, crotons, coleus and
32

many other plants. The bugs cluster around the

joints of stems and leaves. They have fuzzy
covered bodies and most sprays do not work.
They can be removed with a soft paint brush
dipped in a nicotine solution. Your nursery may
have some new sprays.
SCALE insects look like very small brown spots.
They attack fern, palms and crotons. Do not
confuse SCALE with the brown spore cases on
ferns. You can try scraping them off. Then go
buy the best spray available.
EARTHWORMS will not be a problem if you use
sterile soil from the start. Their burrowing
creates air pockets which dry the roots. Kill
them, root lice and maggots with Chlordane
dust.

33

FLOWERING PLANTS
Begonias are attractive plants. Some have
beautiful foliage and almost no flowers. Others
have beauty in both. Peat or humus soil seems
to work best. The temperature can be cool with
no direct sunlight required for most varieties.
The heavier foliage varieties do better with
reduced light.
The normal propagation method is by stem or
leaf cuttings. Wax Begonias use seed. Few
insects or diseases bother these hardy plants.
AFRICAN VIOLET is a native of tropical Africa.
It thrives best at a temperature of 65 to 70
degrees. About the same as most American
homes. It requires little light so it does well in
most apartments. If not over watered, it will
bloom for a long time.
Proper watering is the key to success. The
original home for the plants was under giant
trees in a tropical damp area. Keep this in mind.
Keep the soil moist - not soaked. Do not wet the
leaves. Cool water will spot the leaves. Never
wet the crown.
Direct sunlight will injure the plant. An East or
North window is best. West and South windows
may be used with proper shading.

34

Skip the saucer watering system. Skip glazed

pots unless you are very careful not to over
water. With African Violets, it is how much water
as well as how you water that makes the
difference.
A good soil is mandatory for success. A good
mixture is equal parts of organic matter (peat or
leaf mold) and soil. Add sand if the soil has
much clay. Two parts sand to eight parts clay
soil. Mix one teaspoon of a 10-10-10 fertilizer to
one-half gallon of potting mix. Do not repot a
mature plant more than once a year.
African Violets propagate by leaf cuttings. See
the section on cuttings. TIP: Large leaves with
long stems can be used more than once to start
plants. When the first plants take hold, cut the
stem and start again.
Some problems:
Flower buds forming, but flowers dropping off Probably carbon monoxide from a faulty heater
or stove. Check - especially if anyone has had
headaches.
Plant leaves wilting and dying - due to over
watering.

35

White cottony masses on the leaves - Mealy bug

infestation. Remove with alcohol on a cotton
swab or a small, soft brush.
Leaves small and curled, flowers absent or
distorted. - Mite infestation. These things are
almost microscopic. See a different nursery for
a possible cure. I do not know of any. Do not
purchase plants from that dealer again.
Leaf stems too long. It may be the variety.
Probably the plant does not get enough light.
Failure to flower:
Plants not getting enough light.
Too many leaves in center of plant.
Remove a few.
Over watering - This is usually the trouble.
These plants are finicky about water.
Temperature too high, above 75 or too
low, below 60.

36

FLOWERING PLANTS
AMARYLLIS is a bulbous plant. It is very easy to
grow. Start bulbs in Spring. The flowers will
appear first. After the flowers have died, set the
plants outside if possible. If it is possible to put
the pots into the ground, leave them there until
December. If the foliage is cut too soon, the
plant may not store enough food to make
flowers the following year.
POCKETBOOK FLOWER - A very pretty flower,
but it is much too much trouble for easy
success. Skip the difficult ones, if you wish to
have fun with the plants.
CALLA LILY (Zantedeschia) - After flowering,
starting in summer, with hold all water. Let the
bulbs dry completely. Start into growth in the
Fall.
CINERARIA - is a house plant favorite, but a
pain. The plants need much light, but will wilt
under direct sunlight. The soil must remain moist
but not wet. Rooms must be cool, below 60, for
proper flowering. Skip this one.
CHRYSANTHEMUM - There are many nice
varieties. The very large blossomed plants with
longer stems are valued for All Saints Day. I
worked at a wholesale florist that sold over
180,000 blooms on All Saints Day. This plant
37

can be made to bloom at any time by controlling

the amount of light it gets. Some varieties may
be grown outdoors as perennials in milder
climates.
CYCLAMEN - Let the nurseries grow this one. If
you want it for a house plant, buy it. It requires a
cold room. It needs 50 at night and 60-65 in the
day. This kind of air conditioning in the summer
will cost a fortune. The foliage will yellow and the
flowers will be very small if the temperature is
too high. Most insects like the plant. Too much
trouble.
FUCHSIA is an old favorite but does not work
everywhere. It requires a cool (65) room, full
sunshine and moderate water. A winter resting
period benefits the plant. Let the soil dry
gradually. Place the plant in a cool dark room,
shed or basement for two or three months.
Repot and restart growth. Multiply by cuttings.
GERANIUM is a favorite plant. It requires a
sunny location. Without the light, it will flower
very little and become spindly. Start cuttings in
early spring. Grow outdoors, in the garden, or a
well lighted window. Repot in a small pot in the
fall. This restricts root action and produces
stocky plants with many flowers.
GERANIUMS need regular applications of plant
food. They need plenty of water, but do not keep
38

the soil soggy. Leaf spots will develop if the soil

stays too wet. This is usually not a problem in
the dry atmosphere of the home. Insects will
attack the plant, but this is not a serious
problem.
HYDRANGEA - Buy it. Enjoy it. When the
flowers quit, give it to a gardener. It is very pretty
and if you give it lots of air, light and moisture it
will grow for a good while. In order to carry the
plant over to another year, they must have at
least 30 days below 60 degrees and six to eight
weeks of dark storage without leaves. Dont
grow it. Buy it.
KALANCHOE (Tom Thumb) is a succulent. It
grows well in the home. It is a compact plant
with a profusion of orange-red flowers. It will
thrive in a warm, dry atmosphere. Normal
blooming time is January.
POINSETTIA is a native of Hawaii. The bright
red is not the flower. It is a bract that will turn red
when the light is restricted. It grows as a shrub
in its native habitat. Buy it and enjoy it at
Christmas. It is very difficult to grow in the home
because of the sensitivity to light. I have grown
it outdoors, but the bracts failed to turn red. It is
best to buy, enjoy and discard.

UPRIGHT FOLIAGE PLANTS

39

BOSTON FERN is a very popular house plant.

Many varieties are available. Ferns need a
normally warm room. They prefer the same
temperature as humans (about 65-70). Grow in
the right size pot and avoid over watering. Keep
them from direct sunlight and do not place near
heaters or hot air vents. Follow those hints and
they are easy to grow.
Feed regularly with a good plant food and repot
once a year. When you repot, use a soil with
about half leaf mold or peat. Propagate by
potting of the runners. Scale insects will attack
ferns. Trim off and destroy the older fronds.
These are the ones which will have the most
insects such as scale and mealy bugs. Washing
with tobacco tea and sop will control the pest.
Check with a nursery center to see if new, safe
sprays are available.
TABLE FERNS such as Aspidium, Hollyfern,
Pteris and others make good house plants. Do
not try growing in brass, plastic, painted or
glazed pots. Grow in real clay pots only. Over
watering and insufficient light are the two biggest
problems.
COLEUS is a nice house plant that is not as
demanding as some. It does well in full sunlight
or some shade. It needs a warm moist
atmosphere. Watch for mealy bugs and fungus.
Keep the plant pinched back to produce
40

bushiness. New plants are produced by cuttings,

so use the material you pinch from the plant.
DRACAENA is similar to Pandanus in
appearance and requirements. They can be
reproduced by sections of the main stem.
PANDANUS is a very hardy house plant. Watch
for over watering (especially during winter).The
sword-like green or variegated foliage makes it
attractive for a point of interest. Avoid pots that
are too large. This leads to over watering.
Offsets which form at the base may be removed
and repotted for new plants.
PALMS - There are a myriad number of palms.
The kinds for house plants are few. Kentia and
Date are the two best for homes. Both are easily
cared for. Do not put in direct sunlight or over
pot. Repot no more than once a year. Every two
years is a better time frame. Warm moist
atmosphere is preferred by both kinds. Feed
with a commercial plant food every four weeks.
Watch for scale.
RUBBER PLANT - This plant will do well under
a wide range of growing conditions. Do not over
water. It can withstand warmer temperatures,
but prefers about 70 degrees. It should have a
slightly humid atmosphere but can grow under
very dry conditions. The plant does better when
partly root bound. Do not transplant too often. It
41

is propagated by cuttings or air layering. The

usual pest are scale and mealy bugs. These can
be eradicated by washing with a tobacco-soap
solution. If the leaves start turning yellow, you
have over watered.
SANSEVIERIA (Snake Plant) is an easy plant to
grow. It is almost care-free. The leathery leaves
stop most insect attacks. It requires low light and
very moderate water. The plants are easily
propagated by leaf cutting or suckers which may
be potted (See Propagation Section).

42

FOLIAGE PLANTS - VINES

YAMS - MY FAVORITE - I
do not know of anything
easier to grow. Get a yam
(sweet potato) and put the
pointed in down in a narrow
container of water. Keep at
room temperature and it will
sprout vines. Move to an
area of normal light. It will
tolerate low light, but the vines will not be as
bushy. Note the mass of roots in the photo. After
the vines are about three feet, add a few drops
of dilute plant food to the water once a week.
After the vines are one foot long, let the water
level drop until some roots are out of water
before replenishing water. The water container
may be placed inside a more decorative
container. It should last about a year.
ENGLISH IVY does well in the home. This is the
reason it is popular. It requires moderate light
and water. The plant is capable of extremely
rapid growth under ideal conditions. Scale and
aphids are the main insect problem. The
variegated varieties are not as adaptable.
GERMAN IVY (Senecio) is favored for its pale
green foliage. It does well in low light, cool area
and moderate water. It is not as tough as
43

English Ivy but produces a more luxuriant

growth.
GRAPE IVY (Cissus Rhombifolia) - Grape Ivy
grows upright until long enough to start trailing.
The new growth is light green in contrast to the
dark green of the older stems and vines. To
have a bushy plant, pinch back often. It requires
moderate light and moisture. Mealy bugs are the
main insect problem. They are easily killed. It
propagates from cuttings or slips.
POTHOS AUREUS (Devils Ivy) and its varieties
are favorites for the home. When used in small
containers, they provide just the right green
touch to a room. These plants thrive in the
normal heat of a home and are long lasting.
Grow in a light soil. They do best in a shaded
part of a room. The heart-shaped philodendron,
Cordatum, is popular for the same reasons.
Large leafed philodendrons are used in large
rooms, usually running up a sphagnum moss
pole. Have proper drainage and do not over
water.
WANDERING JEW (the purple varieties) is one
I really like. They will grow anywhere. I have had
luxurious beds of one variety that took the full
brunt of the afternoon sun. Others, I have grown
in very poor light in hanging baskets. I like it as
it tolerates my forgetting to water it. Propagation
44

is by rooting of stems in moist soil or water. It

will even grow in water.

45

CACTI AND SUCCULENTS

This subject deserves a book by itself. There is
a quote in one of the out of print books that
says,all cacti are succulents, but succulents are
not all cacti. I am sure this is a very old saying.
Succulents are juicy plants having very fleshy
stems or leaves. These are used for storing
water which enables the plant to withstand long,
hot, and dry periods. Normally succulents grown
in the home will need more water than cacti. Let
the soil become dry before watering again. A
well drained, porous soil is a must.
Cacti are more dry and thorny with spikes or
hairs. From the Giant Saguaro which weighs
tons and may be 50 feet high to the Button
Cactus that is so small it is very hard to find,
there are thousands of cacti. Some are narcotic.
Some have ferocious spines and others are
leathery. Some have beautiful flowers while
others rarely bloom.
Years ago, in the forties, an old mountain man
showed my mother how to make jelly out of
cactus flowers. He made booze.
Succulents are great for the home planting.
Some types are found in every state except
northern New England. Grow a small dish of
Aloe if you grow none other. This is still the very
best thing for a burn. The juice from a fresh
46

crushed leaf will stop a burn from blistering.

Every kitchen should have one plant in the
window. Agave (Century Plant), Aloe, Crassula,
Echeveria, Euphorbia, Kalanchoe, and Sedum
are the more common succulents.
There are so many easy to grow cacti, I shall not
list the best ones. Go to a good nursery and pick
out one you like. Almost all cacti will grow well in
a porous, sandy soil. Water sparingly.

47

BULB AND BULB-LIKE PLANTS

Bulbs, Bulblets, Corms, Rhizomes and
Tubers
Growing bulbous plants in the home is very easy
if you start with good bulbs, and sterile soil. and
follow the recommendations for the one chosen.
The bulbs and tubers are clean and pleasant to
handle. After potting, the containers may be
stored out of sight until the bulbs have produced
roots. You may want to wait until the flower stalk
is growing. After flowering, they may be
removed and fresh bulbs brought in. If you
select with care, you can have flowering plants
throughout the year.
Some bulbs can be grown permanently in
containers. They will flower year after year with
little care. An occasional repotting or adding
fresh soil to the top is all that is needed. This
group is represented by achimenes, amaryllis,
agapanthus, caladium, calla, some cannas,
clivia, crinum, and haemanthus.
Crocus, daffodils, Dutch Iris, freesias, hyacinths,
scillas, and tulips are usually grown for one
season and then discarded or transferred to the
garden. (If you discard, please do so properly.
Louisiana spends a fortune each year to keep
waterways clear. These waterways are choked

48

by water hyacinths and other plants that were

thrown out.
Soil, bulb fiber, vermiculite, pebbles and water or
plain water are the growing mediums for bulbs.
Hyacinths and the sweet potato - a tuber are two
examples of growing in plain water.
PEBBLES AND WATER SYSTEM - Cut clear
plastic tubing or soda straw if no tubing is
available to the depth of the dish. Tape to the
side. This will be part of your water gauge.
Break up charcoal into small pieces and cover
the bottom of a container to about one inch. Put
washed, small, smooth stones over this for a
depth of another two inches. Crushed granite
can cut the bulbs. Place the bulbs on these
stones. Finish filling the container with small
stones.
Pour water
until it is oneeight inch
above the
base of the
bulb. Here is
where you use
the gauge. If
using a soda straw, You will need to carefully
insert a wire or broom straw into the soda straw
and remove it to see the depth of the water. If
you use a larger plastic tube, you can cut and
49

mark a strip of styrofoam. As water is poured, it

will float. Quit pouring when the mark appears.
Paper White Narcissus and Chinese Sacred Lilly
both grow well with this system.
BULB FIBER OR VERMICULITE - Bulb fiber is
a commercial product containing charcoal,
coarse, fibrous peat moss and crushed shell.
Before using, soak thoroughly. Squeeze ou the
excess water. Fill the bowl within one inch of
top. Press down, but do not compact or the bulb
roots will not be able to push through. Form a
depression and place bulbs so that they support
each other. Do the same for vermiculite. Roman
hyacinths and early trumpet daffodils are good
bulbs for these mediums.
GROWING IN WATER - Yams have already
been covered. Treat other tubers like yams the
same. Hyacinths are sometimes grown in
special forcing glasses. I think it is more trouble
than it is worth. You can place the hyacinth
bulbs on a layer of coarse gravel. Put water until
it touches the base of bulb.
Put container in a cool dark place and check the
water level often. Rooting may take as long as
10 weeks. Usually the bulbs will root in six
weeks. When a mass of roots have formed and
the tips are pushing upward, place in a cool,
lighted room.
50

Do not place them in direct sunlight as the hot

sun can burn the exposed roots. Keep the water
level even with the base of the bulb.
GROWING IN SOIL - Most container bulbs are
grown in a soil mixture of loam, sand, and
organic matter (peat, leaf mold, or bark) in equal
mixtures. This gives the loose mixture that bulbs
need.
Use clean pots. Older, uncleaned pots may
harbor fungus, parasites and bacteria. Boil the
clay pots or soak in bleach water overnight and
rinse. Do not re-use older plastic pots. Set up
the drainage with broken pots or broken
charcoal as describe earlier for other plants.
Place bulbs so that they are almost touching.
Put tips of larger bulbs even with the top of the
soil. (Or where the soil will be.) Plant the
smaller bulbs slightly below the surface. You will
probably notice that other books say plant to a
depth of three times the diameter of the bulb.
This is correct for garden planting. We are
talking about container planting. Leave about an
inch below the rim of the container for watering.
Soak thoroughly and place in a dark cool place
to wait for rooting.
After about eight weeks, start lifting the pots and
look for root growth through the drain hole. The
top growth may be showing as a white or pale
51

yellow from lack of light. Remove those that are

rooted to a well lit room. The shoots will soon
turn green. Keep the plants evenly moist during
the blooming and growing period. Do not place
in sunlight until the plants have adjusted to the
room light.
Try some of the miniature varieties of bulbs. You
will like them. If you find a miniature gladiola that
is a deep rich purple, please send me a bulb. I
had many of them. When I moved, I forgot to dig
them up and the new owner hired someone to
mow. They kept them mowed down until they
died.

52

THIRTEEN RULES
1.

To be successful, pick a plant that

is easy to grow, that fits the
atmosphere in your home and that
fits your life-style.

2.

Let soil dry, then water thoroughly.

3.

Use a good potting soil of the mix

specified for the particular plant.

4.

Use containers with drains or be

very, very careful not to over
water.

5.

Use charcoal for plants grown in

water to keep water clear. It is a
good soil conditioner also.

6.

Fertilize sparing -Too much is

harmful.

7.

Humidify most plants. Dry air is

usually harmful.
53

8.

Shade plants as needed. Most will

not tolerate full sun.

9.

At the first sign of disease, insects,

scale, etc. see your garden center
for the correct insecticide.

10. When using insecticide, Follow

directions EXACTLY.
11. For bushy plants, trim or pinch
back.
12. Do not use a pot that is too large.
13. Deal with a good garden center. or
nursery. Find one with knowledgeable
employees who sells quality plants.
Quality is less expensive in the long
run.

If small children will be around, check for plant

danger. Some are poisonous and some (like
54

Dumb Cane) contain Calcium Oxalate crystals

that can harm the mouth. In rare instances
death has resulted.
Look at the following table. It should help you
decide which plant you wish to grow. It will give
the watering and lighting requirements for many
of the plants.
NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

African
Marigold

Orange or
Yellow
Flowers

Frequent

Sun

African Violet

Purple,
Blue,
White, Pink

Frequent

Shade

Ageratum

Blue fl.

Frequent

Sun

Air Pine

White fl.

Infrequent

Partial
Shade

Aloe (Aloe
aborescens)

Green

Seldom

Sun

55

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Aloe Noblis

Green

Seldom

Sun (or
shade)

Aluminum
Plant

Silver
marked

often

shade

Amaryllis

Many
colors fl.

Often

sun

Amoena
Diffenbachia

Green,
white
bands

Often

Partial
shade

Aphelandra

Yellow fl.

Often

partial
shade

Aralia

Green

often

shade

Artillery Plant

Green

often

partial
shade

Aspidium

Green

seldom

partial
shade

Auritum

Green

often

shade

Azalea (acid
soil)

Many color
fl.

often

sun

Baby Tears

Green

seldom

shade

56

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Begonia

many

often

sun to
partial
shade

Betel Nut
Palm

Green

often

shade

Birds Nest
Fern

Green

often

shade

Birds Nest
Sansevieria

Green
w/bands

seldom

shade

Blushing
Philodendron

Reddish
Green

often

shade

Boston Fern

Green

often

shade

Boxwood
(Buxus
sempervirens
)

Green or
Variegated

often

sun

Boxwood

White fl.

often

partial
shade

Browalia

Blue fl.

often

sun

Cacti

Flowers
vary and
plants vary

seldom

sun

57

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Caladium

Variegated

often

partial
shade

Calla Lilly

White,
Yellow fl.

often

sun

Camellia

Many color
fl.

often

sun

Canna

Many color
fl.

often

sun

Carnation

Many color
fl.

often

sun

Cast Iron
Plant

Green or
Variegated

seldom

shade

Century
Plant

Chartreuse

seldom

sun

Cheese
Cake Plant

Green

often

shade

Chinese
Evergreen

Green

often

shade

Christmas
Cactus

Pink or Red
fl.

often

sun

58

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Chrysanthem
um

Yellow,
White,
Orange,
Red fl.

often

sun

Cigar Plant

Orange fl.

often

sun

Cineraria

Many Color
fl.

often

sun

Climbing Fig

Green

often

sun

Coleus

Many
Colors

often

sun

Crocus

White,
Yellow,
Blue fl.

often

sun

Croton

Variegated

often
(except
winter)

sun

Crown of
Thorns

Pink fl.

seldom

sun

Cupids
Bower

Blue, Pink,
White fl.

often

shade

Cyclamen

Pink, Red,
White fl.

often

sun

Daffodil

Yellow fl.

often

sun

59

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Date Palm

Green

seldom

partial
shade

Devils Ivy

Green and
Yellow

often

shade

Devils
Tongue

Red fl.

often

partial
shade

Dish Fern

Green

seldom

shade

Dracaena

Red, Green

often

shade

Dubia

Green

often

shade

Dumb Cane

Green and
White

often

shade

Easter Lilly

White

often

sun

English Ivy

Green

often

tolerates
most
conditions

Exacum

Blue fl.

often

sun

Ferns

See variety

Fiddle Leaf

Green

often

shade

Flame Violet

Scarlet fl.

often

partial
shade

60

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Flowering
Maple

Orange fl.

often

sun

Flowering
Shamrock

Pink,
yellow,
white f.

often

sun

French
Marigold

Orange,
Yellow fl.

often

sun

Fuchsia

Purple, red
fl.

often

sun

Gardenia

White fl.

often

sun

Geranium

Pink, Red,
White fl.

often

sun

Geranium Ivy

Green

often

shade

German Ivy

Green

often

indifferent

Glacier Ivy

Green,
White

often

shade

Gloxinia

Purple,
Red, White
fl.

often

shade

Goldband
Lilly

White,
Yellow fl.

often

sun

61

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Gold Dust
Ivy

Yellow,
Green

often

shade

Gold Stripe
Sansevieria

Green with
White edge

seldom

partial
shade

Grape
Hyacinth

Blue fl.

often

sun

Grape Ivy

Green

often

partial
shade

Green
Peperomia

Green

often

shade

Hahns
Devils
Tongue

Green and
White

often

shade

Hastatum

Green

often

shade

Hedgehog
Aloe

Green

seldom

sun

Heliotrope

Purple fl.

often

sun

Henrys Lilly

Yellow fl.

often

sun

Hens and
Chickens

Green

Seldom

sun

Holly Fern

Green

often

shade

62

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Hyacinth

White,
Blue, Pink
fl.

often

sun

Hydrangea

Blue,
White, Pink
fl.

often

sun

Jade Plant

Green

seldom

sun

Japanese
Laurel

Green

seldom

sun

Japanese
Lilly

Pink,
White, fl.

often

sun

Jerusalem
Cherry

Red Berry

often

sun

Joshua Tree

Green

seldom

sun

Kafir Lilly

Orange-red
fl.

often

sun

Tom Thumb

Red fl.

often

sun

Kentia Palm

Green

often except
winter

shade

Lace Fern

Green

often

shade

Lantana

Orange fl.

often

sun

63

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Madonna
Lilly

White fl.

often

sun

Maple Leaf
Plant

Green

often

partial
shade

Marble
Queen

White,
Green

often

shade

Martha
Washington
Geranium

Pink,
White, Red

often

sun

Massange
Dracaena

Green and
White

often

shade

Miniature
Tree Palm

Green

often

shade

Monkey
Puzzle Tree

ReddishGreen

often

partial
shade

Nephthytis

Green

often

shade

Norfolk
Island Pine

Green

often

partial
shade

Panduriforme

Green

often

shade

Periwinkle

Pink and
White fl.

often

sun

64

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Petunia

Many
colors of fl.

often

sun

Philodendron

Green

often

shade

Piggyback
Plant

Green

often

sun

Pigmy Date

Green

often

partial
shade

Pin Oak Ivy

Green

often

shade

Pocketbook
Plant

Yellow,
Red, Pink
fl.

often

sun

Podocarpus

Green

often

shade

Poinsettia

Red, White,
Pink fl.
(bracts)

often

sun

Poor Mans
Orchid

Many Color
fl.

often

Partial
shade

Prayer Plant
Maranta
bicolor

Yellow and
White fl.

seldom

shade

Prayer Plant
(maranta
leuconeura)

Green and
Brown

seldom

shade

65

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Primrose
(primula
malacoides)

Pink and
White fl.

often

sun

Primrose,
Hardy
(primula
polyantha)

many color
fl.

often

sun

Rat Tail
Crassula

Green

seldom

sun

Red or
Velvet
Philodendron

Red

often

shade

Red Rubber
Plant

Red, Green

often
(carefully)

shade

Regal Lilly

White fl.

often

sun

Rex Begonia

Variegated,
bright

often

shade

Ripple Ivy

Green

often

shade

Rose

Many
colors fl.

often (needs
much water
and porous
soil

sun

66

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Rubber Plant

Green

when
needed little
in winter

shade

St. Bernards
Lilly

White fl.

often

partial
shade

Sanders
Dracaena

Green and
White
stripe

often

shade

Scheffiera

Green

often

shade

Screwpine
(Pandanus
veitchi)

Green and
White

often except
winter

shade

Self
Branching
Ivy (Hedera
Hahnii)

Green

often

shade

Selloum

Green

often

shade

Shrimp Plant

Pink fl.

often

sun

Small Leaf
Euonymus

Green

often

shade

Snake Plant

Green
Speckled
White

seldom

partial
shade

67

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Snapdragon

Many
colors fl.

often

sun

Spear Flower

Green

often

partial
shade

Spindle Tree

Green and
White

often

sun

Split Leaf

Green

often

shade

Spotted
Evergreen

White and
Green

often

shade

Spotted Leaf
Dracaena

Green with
Yellow
Spots

seldom

shade

Strawberry
Geraniums

Green and
White fl.

often

partial
shade

Tailflower

Red, White,
Pink fl.

often

partial
shade

Ti Plant

Green, Red

often

partial
shade

Tiger Aloe

variegated

seldom

sun

SucculentsSee
individual
kind

68

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Tiger Lilly

Orange fl.

often

sun

Trailing
Selaginella

Green

seldom

partial
shade

Tri Leaf

Green

often

shade

Tri Leaf
Wonder

Green,
white

often

partial
shade

Tuberous
Begonia

Brilliant fl.,
Many
colors

often

partial
shade

Tulips

Many color
fl.

often

sun

Umbrella
Plant
(Cyperus)

Green

when
needed

sun

Variegated
Evergreen

Light Green
streaks

often

shade

Variegated
Ivy

Green and
White

often

shade

Variegated
Nephthytis

Green and
White

often

shade

Variegated
Peperomia

Green and
White

often

shade

69

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

Variegated
Philodendron

Green and
Yellow

often

shade

Variegated
Rubber Plant

Green and
White

when
needed
(less in
winter)

shade

Verbena

Many
colors fl.

often

sun

Vinca Vine

Green and
White

often

sun

Wandering
Jew

Green and
Red, one
variety
Purple

often

shade to
direct sun

Wart Plant

Variegated

seldom

sun

Watermelon
Begonia

Green and
White

often

shade

Wax Plant

White fl.

seldom

partial
shade

Wax Begonia

White,
Pink, Red
fl.

often

sun

Wendlandi

Green

often

shade

70

NAME

COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.

Water

LIGHT

White Leaf
Fittonia

Green,
White veins

seldom

shade

Xembi

Green

often

shade

Zinnia

Many Color
fl.

often

sun

71