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Photo 1 The essentials: a low-watt soldering iron, a stand, a small damp sponge, and a roll of electronic silver solder like this .020" 60/40
lead/tin rosin flux solder from Kester.
Given the DIY nature of this issue, we thought it would be appropriate to address good soldering
technique. If youre willing to invest a few bucks in some modest tools and spend a little time
practicing the basics, you can learn to wire up guitars, stomp kits, speaker cabinets, and even do some
simple amp mods. Once you understand the fundamentals, you can save money and derive a lot of
satisfaction from working on your own gear.
The tools. Youll want a decent soldering pencil (a small type of soldering iron) rated at least 25
watts, but no more than 60 watts. (Many guitar techs like a 30-watt soldering iron for working on
guitars and amps, and a 15-watt iron for working inside stompboxes and on delicate printed circuit
boards.) Youll also want a stand to hold the hot iron when not in use, a damp sponge, and some rosin
core solder made for electronic work (Photo 1).
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Photo 2 If your soldering stand doesnt house a sponge, just put a damp household sponge in a glass or ceramic dish. Other helpful tools: a
hemostat and small clamps to hold parts still as you solder them, and a solder sucker bulb for removing solder.
You should also have some basic hand tools, such as wire strippers, needle-nose pliers, wire cutters,
and something to hold the wire in place while a solder joint cools (Photos 2 and 3). There are tools
sold specifically for holding wires and parts, available through an electronics supply house.
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Photo 3 In addition to hook-up wire, youll want wire strippers. Alternatively, luthier suppliers offer old-school push-back wire with a
waxed cotton jacket (center) that eliminates the need for stripping off the plastic insulation from the end of the wire. Electrical tape and heat
shrink tubing come in handy when you need to protect or insulate your work.
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Photo 4 Before you attempt to solder a connection, the wire and component must be secured to assure they remain absolutely motionless.
Here, a spring-loaded heat-sink clamp holds the wire in place while a vice grip gently clamps
the pot shaft.
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Photo 5 Wipe the hot tip with a damp sponge to keep it clean.
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Photo 7 Add a small amount of solder to a freshly cleaned tip just before you solder a connection. When you see this telltale puff of smoke,
pull the strand of solder off the tip, shake off any excess, and then move quickly to the joint.
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Photo 8 Gently press the irons hot tip against the joint to heat it before you bring the solder into the equation. The goal is to make the joint
itself hot enough to melt the solder.
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Photo 9 While holding the tip against the joint, feed the solder onto the heated joint, not the soldering iron tip. Here the emerging puff of
smoke indicates the solder is melting.
If you feed solder onto the joint without it touching the iron (Photo 9), the solder will melt and be
attracted right to the joint. You can watch the solder actually wick out onto the surface youre
soldering tothis is what you want.
Step 7: Get off the Joint
As soon as the solder has flowed onto the joint properly, remove the heat from the joint. Most
components can stand a fair amount of heat, but some are more susceptible to damage than others, so
theres no need to push your luck. Pots are fairly durable (unless its a cheap pot), so its highly
unlikely youll damage one by trying to solder a wire to its back. But again, theres no need to push
your luck, so as soon as youve completed the joint, pull the iron away and let the joint cool with the
components remaining motionless. If youre soldering to a ring-shaped solder lug, then youll want to
fill it completely with solder (Photo 10). This will maximize the mechanical strength of the joint.
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Photo 10 When the molten solder has flowed into the joint, pull away both the solder and iron. Keep the joint motionless as it cools and dont
blow on itthe moisture in your breath will enter the cooling connection and potentially cause it to fail.
Like most skills, soldering proficiency is acquired through practice. Employing good technique will
allow you to become competent all the more quickly, so follow these steps, and youll be soldering
like a pro in no time. You should probably practice on projects that arent expensive or mission
criticalyou might want to think twice about rewiring your only guitar before that gig with Clapton
tonight. But if you keep at it, youll be one step closer to being a consummate DIYer.
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Photo 11
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Photo 12
Heres how it works: Stabilize your component, in this case, a pot (Photo 11). See how one lug is
filled with solder? Lets make that go bye-bye. Apply heat to the lug with a freshly cleaned
soldering-iron tip. When you see the solder turn shiny and molten, hold the bulb away from the lug,
squeeze and hold the bulb, and then bring its tip to the lug and release the bulb. Fffffft! The molten
solder goes up the tip and into the bulb (Photo 12). Look at thata nice clean lug ready for its next
mission (Photo 13).
Tip: Its good to recycle pots and parts, but never try to reuse old solder. Clean it off and start fresh.
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Photo 13
In case youre wondering what happens to the old solder, every few months you simply work the tip
out of the bulb, shake the collected cold solder beads into the trash, and reinsert the tip into the bulb.
Good to go.
When youre working with wire and electronics, youll often encounter instances where you need to
insulate a connection from other wires or components. For example, you want to install a favorite
old pickup into another guitar. However, the pickup leads have been cut back over the years and
now they wont reach the intended switch or pot, which means its time to splice short extensions to
the pickup leads. No problem, except if the exposed wires touch each other or other components,
theyll create a short and youll hear only silence (or an annoying hum).
Electrical tape will do the job to insulate the splices, but heat shrink tubingaka heat shrinkoffers
a more elegant solution. To make this work, youll need a heat source. Some folks use a lighter, but I
prefer a heat gun because I like to avoid open flame in my workshop. Heat guns arent expensive
and they get the job done efficiently and safely.
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Photo 14
The details: Designed to slide over wire of different gauges, heat shrink comes in various diameters.
After you select the right diameter to comfortably slip over your wire, cut off a piece that will
straddle the solder splice or joint you plan to cover. The pros suggest a length thats about three
times as long as the exposed section. Use hemostats or a clamp to temporarily hold the ends together
while you gauge the length youll need to cut (Photo 14).
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Photo 15
Next, remove the clamp, slide the heat shrink over one end of the wire (keep it far away from your
hot iron) and solder the wires. When the solder has cooled, slip the heat shrink over the new joint,
center it, and fire up the heat gun. The tubing will start to immediately contract around the joint
(Photo 15). Dont worry, air from the heat gun doesnt get hot enough to compromise the solder
joint. Once the tubing has completely closed up around the wire, youre done. The joint now has a
tough, new skin to protect it. Andy Ellis
Senior Editor Andy Ellis learned to play classical and rock guitar in France and Germany, and then
went on to study jazz at Boston's Berklee College of Music. After playing in bands for several years,
Andy discovered he had an affinity for music journalism. During the last two-and-a-half decades, he
has written hundreds of features, interviews, and lessons. His work has appeared in virtually every
guitar magazine and many websites in the U.S., and dozens of his lessons are collected in popular
instructional books. Now based in Nashville, Andy backs singer-songwriters on the baritone guitar.
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