Arvind Products is a company from the

Lalbhai Group, headed by sanjay

Lalbhai. Arvind products is into Yarn
and supplies most of its production to
Arvind Mills.
This Company operates through
following independent units.
1. Ankur Textiles:
Ankur Textile was originally known as
Lakshmi Cotton Mills and was taken up
by the Lalbhai group in the year 1979
as a closed sick mill. A major
rehabilitation programme was drawn up
to revive this closed sick mill.
Managerial and technical talent from
Arvind Mills took up this challenge to
rejuvenate this closed Mill. Until the
year 1996 this unit was a division of
Arvind Mills and is currently a division
of Arvind Products Ltd.
2.Arvind Intex:
Ahmedabad- based Arvind Intex was a
sick unit- The Nagri Mills Limited-that
Arvind took over in 1991-1992, and
rehabilitated since. The company
produces cotton yarn for the Indian and
International markets, and recently
commisioned a completely modernised
spinning unit to produce ring spun yarn
for the Indian market.
3.Arvind Cotspin:
Arvind cotspin, located at Kolhapur,
Maharashtra, is one of India's largest
spinning mill. The Company
manufactures 100% cotton yarn and
double yarn in a wide range of counts
and varities.
Arvind Products has been reporting
losses for a few years because of
heavy interest burden. This is due to
huge loans taken by the company. The
company is said to be doing well and is
a beneficiary of the textile quota regime
being scrapped.
The year 2005-2006 should see it
report profits and possibly declare a
dividend. A good pick at the current
price.

Weaving
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This article is about textile weaving. For
other uses, see Weaving
(disambiguation).
Warp and weft in plain weaving
Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called
the warp and the filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced with each other to
form a fabric or cloth. The warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth,
and the weft runs across from side to side.

Cloth is woven on a loom, a device for

holding the warp threads in place while
the filling threads are woven through
them. Weft is an old Englishword
meaning "that which is woven".[1]
The manner in which the warp and filling
threads interlace with each other is
known as the weave. The three basic
weaves are plain weave,satin weave,
and twill, and the majority of woven
products are created with one of these
weaves.
Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour
or a simple pattern), or it can be woven
in decorative or artistic designs,
including tapestries. Fabric in which the
warp and/or weft is tie-dyed before
weaving is called ikat.
The ancient art of handweaving, along
with hand spinning, remains a popular
craft. The majority of
commercial fabrics in the West are
woven on computer-controlled Jacquard
looms. In the past, simpler fabrics were
woven on dobby looms, while the
Jacquard harness adaptation was
reserved for more complex patterns.
Some believe the efficiency of the
Jacquard loom, with its Jacquard
weaving process, makes it more
economical for mills to use them to
weave all of their fabrics, regardless of
the complexity of the design.
Contents
[hide]
• 1 Process
• 2 Ancient and traditional cultures
○ 2.1 American Southwest

○ 2.2 Amazonia

○ 2.3 Islamic world

• 3 Europe
 ○ 3.1 Dark Age and Medieval
Europe
○ 3.2 Colonial America

• 4 Industrial Revolution
○ 4.1 Great Britain

○ 4.2 America, 1800–1900

• 5 See also
• 6 Notes
• 7 References
• 8 External links

[edit]Process

An Indian weaver preparing his warp

A woman weaving with a manual loom

In general, weaving involves the
interlacing of two sets of threads at right
angles to each other: the warp and
the weft. The warp are held taut and
in parallel order, typically by means of a
loom, though some forms of weaving
may use other methods. The loom is
warped (or dressed) with the warp
threads passing through heddles on two
or more harnesses. The warp threads
are moved up or down by the harnesses
creating a space called the shed. The
weft thread is wound onto spools
called bobbins. The bobbins are placed
in a shuttle which carries the weft thread
through the shed. The raising and
lowering sequence of warp threads
gives rise to many possible weave
structures:
 plain weave,

 twill weave,

 satin weave, and

 complex computer-

generated interlacings.
Both warp and weft can be visible in the
final product. By spacing the warp more
closely, it can completely cover the weft
that binds it, giving awarpfaced textile
such as rep weave. Conversely, if the
warp is spread out, the weft can slide
down and completely cover the warp,
giving aweftfaced textile, such as
a tapestry or a Kilim rug. There are a
variety of loom styles for hand weaving
and tapestry. In tapestry, the image is
created by placing weft only in certain
warp areas, rather than across the entire
warp width.
[edit]Ancient and traditional
cultures

Prehistoric woven objects and weaving tools

Weaving in ancient Egypt

There are some indications that weaving
was already known in
the Palaeolithic era. An indistinct textile
impression has been found at Pavlov,
Moravia. Neolithic textiles are well
known from finds in pile dwellings in
Switzerland. One extant fragment from
the Neolithic was found inFayum at a
site which dates to about 5000 BCE.
This fragment is woven at about 12
threads by 9 threads per cm in a plain
weave. Flax was the predominant fibre
in Egypt at this time and continued
popularity in the Nile Valley, even after
wool became the primary fibre used in
other cultures around 2000 BCE.
Another Ancient Egyptian item, known
as the Badari dish, depicts a textile
workshop. This item, catalogue number
UC9547, is now housed at the Petrie
Museum and dates to about 3600 BCE.
Enslaved women worked as weavers
during the Sumerian Era. They would
wash wool fibers in hot water and wood-
ash soap and then dry them. Next, they
would beat out the dirt and card the
wool. The wool was then
graded, bleached, and spun into a
thread. The spinners would pull out
fibers and twist them together. This was
done by either rolling fibers between
palms or using a hooked stick. The
thread was then placed on a wooden or
bone spindle and rotated on a
clay whorlwhich operated like a flywheel.
The slaves would then work in three-
woman teams on looms, where they
stretched the threads, after which they
passed threads over and under each
other at perpendicular angles. The
finished cloth was then taken to a fuller.
Easton's Bible Dictionary (1897) points
to numerous Biblical references to
weaving in ancient times:
Weaving was an art practised in very early
times (Ex. 35:35). The Egyptians were
specially skilled in it (Isa. 19:9; Ezek. 27:7),
and some have regarded them as its
inventors.

In the wilderness, the Hebrews practised it

(Ex. 26:1, 8; 28:4, 39; Lev. 13:47). It is
referred to in subsequent times as
specially the women's work (2 Kings 23:7;
Prov. 31:13, 24). No mention of the loom is
found in Scripture, but we read of the
"shuttle" (Job 7:6), "the pin" of the beam
(Judg. 16:14), "the web" (13, 14), and "the
beam" (1 Sam. 17:7; 2 Sam. 21:19). The
rendering, "with pining sickness," in Isa.
38:12 (A.V.) should be, as in the Revised
Version, "from the loom," or, as in the
margin, "from the thrum." We read also of
the "warp" and "woof" (Lev. 13:48, 49, 51–
53, 58, 59), but the Revised Version
margin has, instead of "warp," "woven or
knitted stuff."
[edit]American Southwest

Weaving a traditional Navajo rug

Textile weaving, using cotton dyed with
pigments, was a dominant craft among
pre-contact tribes of the American
southwest, including
variousPueblo peoples, the Zuni, and
the Ute tribes. The first Spaniards to visit
the region wrote about seeing Navajo
blankets. With the introduction ofNavajo-
Churro sheep, the resulting woolen
products have become very well known.
By the 1700s the Navajo had begun to
import yarn with their favorite color,
Bayeta red. Using an upright loom, the
Navajos wove blankets and then rugs
after the 1880s for trade. Navajo traded
for commercial wool, such as
Germantown, imported from
Pennsylvania. Under the influence of
European-American settlers at trading
posts, Navajos created new and distinct
styles, including "Two Gray Hills"
(predominantly black and white, with
traditional patterns), "Teec Nos Pos"
(colorful, with very extensive patterns),
"Ganado" (founded by Don Lorenzo
Hubbell), red dominated patterns with
black and white, "Crystal" (founded by J.
B. Moore), Oriental and Persian styles
(almost always with natural dyes), "Wide
Ruins," "Chinlee," banded geometric
patterns, "Klagetoh," diamond type
patterns, "Red Mesa" and bold diamond
patterns. Many of these patterns exhibit
a fourfold symmetry, which is thought to
embody traditional ideas about
harmony, or hózhó.
[edit]Amazonia
In Native Amazonia, densely
woven palm-bast mosquito netting, or
tents, were utilized by
the Panoans, Tupí, Western Tucano,
Yameo, Záparoans, and perhaps by the
indigenous peoples of the
central Huallaga River basin (Steward
1963:520). Aguaje palm-bast (Mauritia
flexuosa, Mauritia minor, or swamp
palm) and the frond spears of the
Chambira palm (Astrocaryum chambira,
A.munbaca, A.tucuma, also known as
Cumare or Tucum) have been used for
centuries by the Urarina of the
Peruvian Amazon to make cordage, net-
bags hammocks, and to weave fabric.
Among the Urarina, the production of
woven palm-fiber goods is imbued with
varying degrees of an aesthetic attitude,
which draws its authentication from
referencing the Urarina’s primordial
past. Urarina mythology attests to the
centrality of weaving and its role in
engendering Urarina society. The post-
diluvial creation myth accords women’s
weaving knowledge a pivotal role in
Urarina social reproduction.[2] Even
though palm-fiber cloth is regularly
removed from circulation
through mortuary rites, Urarina palm-
fiber wealth is neither
completely inalienable,
nor fungible since it is a fundamental
medium for the expression of labor and
exchange. The circulation of palm-fiber
wealth stabilizes a host of social
relationships, ranging from marriage and
fictive kinship (compadrazco, spiritual
compeership) to perpetuating
relationships with the deceased.[3]
[edit]Islamic world
Girls weaving a Persian rug, Hamadan, circa
1922. Note the design templates ( called
'cartoons') at top of loom.
Hand weaving of Persian
carpets and kilims has been an
important element of the tribal crafts of
many of the subregions of modern
day Iran. Examples of carpet types are
the Lavar Kerman carpet
from Kerman and the Seraband
rug from Arak.
An important innovation in weaving that
was developed in the Muslim
world during the Islamic Golden
Age was the introduction of foot
pedals tooperate a loom. The first such
devices appeared in Syria, Iran
and Islamic parts of East Africa, where
"the operator sat with his feet in a pit
below a fairly low-slung loom." By 1177,
it was further developed in Al-Andalus,
where having the mechanism was
"raised higher above the ground on a
more substantial frame." This type of
loom spread to the Christian parts of
Spain and soon became popular all
over medieval Europe.[4]
[edit]Europe
[edit]Dark Age and Medieval
Europe
Weighted-warp looms were
commonplace in Europe until the
development of more advanced looms
around the 10th–11th centuries.
Especially in colder climates, where a
large floor loom would take up too much
valuable floor space, the more primitive
looms remained in use until the 20th
Century to produce "homespun" cloth for
individual family needs. The primary
material woven in most of Europe was
wool, though linenwas also common,
and imported silk thread was
occasionally made into cloth. Both men
and women were weavers, though the
task often fell to the wife of a farming
household. Fabric width was limited to
the reach of the weaver, but was
sufficient for the tunic-style garments
worn in much of Europe at the time. A
plain weave or twill was common, since
professional weavers with skills to
produce better fabrics were rare.
Weaving was a strictly local enterprise
until later in the period, when larger
weaving operations sprung up in places
like Brugges, in Flanders. Within this
setting, master weavers could improve
their craft and pass skills along to
apprentices. As the Middle Ages
progressed, significant trade in fine cloth
developed, and loom technology
improved to allow very thin threads to be
woven. Weaver's guilds (and associated
craft guilds, like fullers) gained
significant political and economic power
in some of the bigger weaving cities.
[edit]Colonial America
Colonial America was heavily reliant
on Great Britain for manufactured goods
of all kinds. British policy was to
encourage the production of raw
materials in colonies. Weaving was not
prohibited, but the export of
British wool was. As a result many
people wove cloth from locally produced
fibers in Colonial America.
In Colonial times the colonists mostly
used wool, cotton and flax (linen) for
weaving, though hemp fiber could be
made into serviceable canvas and
heavy cloth also. They could get one
cotton crop each fall, but until the
invention of the cotton gin it was a labor-
intensive process to separate the seeds
from the cotton fiber. Flax and hemp
were harvested in the summer, and the
stalks rendered for the long fibers within.
Wool could be sheared up to twice
yearly, depending on the breed of
sheep.
A plain weave was preferred in Colonial
times, and the added skill and time
required to make more complex weaves
kept them from common use in the
average household. Sometimes designs
were woven into the fabric but most
were added after weaving using wood
block prints or embroidery.
[edit]Industrial Revolution
Main article: Textile manufacture during
the Industrial Revolution
Before the Industrial Revolution,
weaving remained a manual craft,
usually undertaken part-time by family
craftspeople. Looms might be broad or
narrow; broad looms were those too
wide for the weaver to pass the shuttle
through the shed, so that the weaver
needed an assistant (often
an apprentice). This ceased to be
necessary after John Kay invented
the flying shuttlein 1733, which also
sped up the process of weaving.
[edit]Great Britain
The first attempt to mechanise weaving
was the work of Edmund
Cartwright from 1785. He built a factory
at Doncaster and obtained a series of
patents between 1785 and 1792. In
1788, his brother Major John
Cartwight built Revolution Mill
at Retford (named for the centenary of
the Glorious Revolution. In 1791, he
licensed his loom to the Grimshaw
brothers ofManchester, but their Knott
Mill burnt down the following year
(possibly a case of arson). Edmund
Cartwight was granted a reward of
£10,000 by Parliament for his efforts in
1809.[5]However, success in power-
weaving also required improvements by
others, including H. Horrocks
of Stockport. Only during the two
decades after about 1805, did power-
weaving take hold. Textile manufacture
was one of the leading sectors in
the British Industrial Revolution, but
weaving was a comparatively late sector
to be mechanised. The loom became
semi-automatic in 1842 with Kenworthy
and Bulloughs Lancashire Loom. The
various innovations took weaving from a
home-based artisan activity (labour
intensive and man-powered)
to steamdriven factories process. A
large metal manufacturing industry grew
to produce the looms, firms such
as Howard & Bullough of Accrington,
and Tweedales and Smalley and Platt
Brothers. Most cotton weaving took
place in weaving sheds, in
small towns circling Greater
Manchester and worsted weaving
in West Yorkshire – men and women
with weaving skills emigrated, and took
the knowledge to their new homes in
New England, in places
like Pawtucket and Lowell.
The invention in France of the Jacquard
loom, enabled complicated patterned
cloths to be woven, by using punched
cards to determine which threads of
coloured yarn should appear on the
upper side of the cloth.
[edit]America, 1800–1900

Jacquard loom
The Jacquard loom attachment was
perfected in 1801, and was becoming
common in Europe by 1806. It came to
the US in the early 1820's, some
immigrant weavers bringing jacquard
equipment with them, and spread west
from New England. At first it was used
with traditional human-powered looms.
As a practical matter, previous looms
were mostly limited to the production of
simple geometric patterns. The jacquard
allowed individual control of each warp
thread, row by row without repeating, so
very complex patterns were suddenly
feasible. Jacquard woven
coverlets (bedspreads) became popular
by mid-century, in some cases being
custom-woven with the name of the
customer embedded in the programmed
pattern. Undyed cotton warp was usually
combined with dyed wool weft.
Natural dyes were used until just before
the American Civil War, when artificial
dyes started to come into use.
[edit]See also
 Kilim
 Persian weave
 Textile manufacturing
terminology
 Weaving (mythology)
[edit]Notes

1. ^ deriving from an
obsolete past
participle of weave (Oxfor
d English Dictionary, see
"weft" and "weave".
2. ^ Bartholomew Dean
2009 Urarina Society,
Cosmology, and History
 in Peruvian Amazonia,
Gainesville: University
Press of Florida ISBN
978-081303378 [1]
3. ^ Bartholomew Dean.
"Multiple Regimes of
Value: Unequal Exchange
and the Circulation of
Urarina Palm-Fiber
Wealth" Museum
Anthropology February
1994, Vol. 18, No. 1, pp.
3–20 available online)
(paid subscription).
4. ^ Pacey, Arnold
(1991), Technology in
world civilization: a
thousand-year
history, MIT Press,
pp. 40–1, ISBN 02626607
25
5. ^ W. English, The Textile
Industry (1969), 89–97;
W. H. Chaloner, People
 and Industries (1093),
45–54
[edit]References
 This article incorporates
text from Textiles by William
H. Dooley, Boston, D.C.
Heath and Co., 1914, a
volume which is in
the public domain and is
available online
from Project Gutenberg
[edit]External links
Wikimedia Commons has media
related to: Weaving

 Encyclopædia Britannica
1911 – Weaving
 Resource collection
 Card Weaving
 Oriental rug weaving
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Loom
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For other uses, see Loom
(disambiguation).

Draper power loom in Lowell, Mass. US

A woman in Konya, Turkey works at

a vertical loom.

An early nineteenth centuryJapanese loom

with several heddles, which the weaver
controls with her foot.
A loom is a device used to weave cloth.
The basic purpose of any loom is to hold
the warp threads under tension to
facilitate the interweaving of
the weft threads. The precise shape of
the loom and its mechanics may vary,
but the basic function is the same.
Contents
[hide]
• 1 Weaving
• 2 Types of loom
○ 2.1 Back strap loom

○ 2.2 Warp weighted loom

○ 2.3 Handloom

○ 2.4 Haute lisse and basse

lisse looms
○ 2.5 Power looms

• 3 Patents
• 4 See also
• 5 References
• 6 Bibliography
• 7 External links

[edit]Weaving
See Weaving for more information.
See Textile manufacturing
terminology for more terms
connected with looms.
Weaving is done by intersecting the
longitudinal threads, the warp, i.e.
"that which is thrown across", with
the transverse threads, the weft, i.e.
"that which is woven".

The major components of the loom

are the warp beam, heddles,
harnesses, shuttle, reed and takeup
roll. In the loom, yarn processing
includes shedding, picking,
battening and taking-up operations.
 Shedding. Shedding is the raising

of the warp yarns to form

a shed through which the filling
yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be
inserted. The shed is the vertical
space between the raised and
unraised warp yarns. On the
modern loom, simple and intricate
shedding operations are
 performed automatically by the
heddle or heald frame, also known
as a harness. This is a rectangular
frame to which a series of wires,
called heddles or healds, are
attached. The yarns are passed
through the eye holes of the
heddles, which hang vertically
from the harnesses. The weave
pattern determines which harness
controls which warp yarns, and the
number of harnesses used
depends on the complexity of the
weave. Two common methods of
controlling the heddles
are dobbies and a Jacquard Head.
 Picking. As the harnesses raise
the heddles or healds, which raise
the warp yarns, the shed is
created. The filling yarn in inserted
through the shed by a small carrier
device called a shuttle. The shuttle
is normally pointed at each end to
allow passage through the shed.
 In a traditional shuttle loom, the
filling yarn is wound onto a quill,
which in turn is mounted in the
shuttle. The filling yarn emerges
through a hole in the shuttle as it
moves across the loom. A single
crossing of the shuttle from one
side of the loom to the other is
known as a pick. As the shuttle
moves back and forth across the
shed, it weaves an edge, or
selvage, on each side of the fabric
to prevent the fabric from raveling.
 Battening. As the shuttle moves
across the loom laying down the
fill yarn, it also passes through
openings in another frame called
a reed(which resembles a comb).
With each picking operation, the
reed presses or battens each
filling yarn against the portion of
the fabric that has already been
formed. The point where the fabric
is formed is called the fell.
 Conventional shuttle looms can
operate at speeds of about 150 to
160 picks per minute.[1]
With each weaving operation, the
newly constructed fabric must be
wound on a cloth beam. This
process is called taking up. At the
same time, the warp yarns must be
let off or released from the warp
beams. To become fully automatic,
a loom needs a filling stop motion
which will brake the loom, if the weft
thread breaks.[1] An automatic loom
requires 0.125 hp to 0.5 hp to
operate.
[edit]Types of loom
[edit]Back strap loom

A back strap loom with a shed-rod.

A simple loom which has its roots in
ancient civilizations comprising two
sticks or bars between which the
warps are stretched. One bar is
attached to a fixed object and the
other to the weaver usually by
means of a strap around the back.
On traditional looms, the two main
sheds are operated by means of a
shed roll over which one set of
warps pass, and continuous string
heddles which encase each of the
warps in the other set. The weaver
leans back and uses her body
weight to tension the loom. To open
the shed controlled by the string
heddles, the weaver relaxes tension
on the warps and raises the
heddles. The other shed is usually
opened by simply drawing the shed
roll toward the weaver. Both simple
and complex textiles can be woven
on this loom. Width is limited to how
far the weaver can reach from side
to side to pass the shuttle. Warp
faced textiles, often decorated with
intricate pick-up patterns woven in
complementary and supplementary
warp techniques are woven by
indigenous peoples today around
the world. They produce such things
as belts, ponchos bags, hatbands
and carrying cloths. Supplementary
weft patterning and brocading is
practiced in many regions. Balanced
weaves, too are possible on the
backstrap loom.
Today,commercially produced
backstrap loom kits often include a
rigid heddle.
[edit]Warp weighted loom
The warp-weighted loom is a
vertical loom that originates
from Ancient Greece, and spread
throughout Europe thereafter.[2] Its
defining characteristic is hanging
weights which keep the warp thread
taut. Frequently, extra warp thread
is wound around the weights. When
a weaver has reached the bottom of
his creation, they can roll E
the completed section l
around the top beam,
and unwind the extra e
warp thread from around m
the weights to continue. e
This frees the weaver n
from vertical size
t
constraints.
s
[edit]Handloom
o
f
a
Hand loom at Hjerl f
Hede, Denmark, showing
grayish warp threads (back)
o
and cloth woven with red o
filling yarn (front). t
The earliest looms were -
wooden vertical-shaft t
looms, with
the heddles fixed in r
place in the shaft. The e
warp threads pass a
d
alternately through a heddle and
through a space between the
heddles (the shed), so that raising
the shaft raises half the threads
(those passing through the
heddles), and lowering the shaft
lowers the same threads—the
threads passing through the spaces
between the heddles remain in
place.
[edit]Haute
lisse and basse
lisse looms
Looms used for weaving
traditional tapestry are classified
as haute lisse looms, where the
warp is suspended vertically
between two rolls, and the basse
lisse looms, where the warp extends
horizontally between the rolls.
[edit]Power looms
Main article: Power loom
A power loom used in Ettayapuram

A Picanol Rapier Loom

Edmund Cartwright built and
patented a power loom in 1785, and
it was this that was adopted by the
nascent cotton industry in England.
A silk loom was made by Jacques
Vaucanson in 1745, which used the
same ideas but it wasn't developed
further. The invention of the flying
shuttle by John Kay had been
critical to the development of a
commercially successful power
loom.[3]Cartwright's loom was
impractical but the ideas were
developed by numerous inventors in
the Manchester area in England,
where by 1818 there were 32
factories containing 5732 looms.[4]
Horrocks loom was viable but it was
the Roberts Loom in 1830 [5]that
marked the turning point. Before this
time hand looms had out numbered
power looms. Incremental changes
to the three motions continued to be
made. The problems of sizing, stop-
motions, consistent take-up and a
temple to maintain the width
remained. In 1841, Kenworthy
and Bullough produced
the Lancashire Loom[6]which was
self-acting or semi-automatic. This
enables a 15-year-old spinner to run
six looms at the same time.
Incrementally, theDickinson Loom,
and then the Keighley born inventor
Northrop working
for Draper in Lowell produced the
fully automatic Northrop
Loom which recharged the shuttle
when the pirn was empty. The
Draper E and X model became the
leading products from 1909 until
they were challenged by the
different characteristics of synthetic
fibres such as rayon.[7]
From 1942 the faster and more
efficient shuttleless Sulzer
Looms and the rapier looms were
introduced.[8] Modern industrial
looms can weave at 2000 weft
insertions per minute.[9] Today,
advances in technology have
produced a variety of looms
designed to maximize production for
specific types of material. The most
common of these are air-jet looms
and water-jet looms.
[edit]Patents
 U.S. Patent 0,000,169 – Loom
[edit]See also
Look
up loom in Wiktionary, the
free dictionary.
 Timeline of clothing and textiles
technology
 Weaving (mythology)
 Shuttle (weaving)
[edit]References
1. ^ a b Collier 1970, p. 104
2. ^ Crowfoot 1936, p. 36
3. ^ Marsden 1892, p. 57
4. ^ Guest, Richard (1823). "The
Compendious History of Cotton-
Manufacture". pp. 46. Retrieved
Feb 2009.
5. ^ Marsden 1892, p. 76
6. ^ Marsden 1892, p. 94
7. ^ Mass 1990
8. ^ Collier 1970, p. 111
9. ^ S. Rajagopalan, S.S.M.
College of Engineering,
Komarapalayam, http://www.pde
xcil.org/news/40N1002/advance
s.htm
[edit]Bibliography
 Collier, Ann M (1970). A
Handbook of Textiles. Pergamon
Press. pp. 258. ISBN 0 08 018057
4, 0 08 018056 6.
 Crowfoot, Grace (1936/1937). "Of
the Warp-Weighted Loom". The
Annual of the British School at
Athens 37: 36–47.
 Marsden, Richard (1895). Cotton
Weaving: Its Development,
Principles, and Practice. George
Bell & Sons. pp. 584. Retrieved
Feb 2009.
 Mass, William (1990). [www.h-
net.org/~business/bhcweb/publicat
ions/BEHprint/v019/p0234-
p0244.pdf "The Decline of a
Technology Leader:Capabilty,
strategy and shuttleless
Weaving"]. Business and
Economic History. ISSN 089-
6825. jojojo
[edit]External links
 Loom demonstration video
 "Caring for your loom" article
 "The Art and History of Weaving"
 "Shuttle looms for narrow fabrics"
 The Medieval Technology
Pages: "The Horizontal Loom"

v •d•e

Basketweave · Charvet ·
Weaves weave · Lampas · Oxford
weave · Twill · Gabardine

Components Textiles · Warp · Weft · Y

Chilkat weaving · Fingerw

Tools and
weaving · Jacquard weav
techniques
weaving · Shuttle · Table
 Dobby loom · Jacquard lo
Types of looms loom · Northrop loom · P
loom

Acesas · Ada Dietz · Mich

Weavers
Rylands · Brigitta Scherz

Categories: Machines | Weaving

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 Home About DPPEA Contacts Need Help? Site Map Search

Weaving
Weaving is performed on modern looms, which contain similar parts and perform similar operations to simple
hand-operated looms. Fabrics are formed from weaving by interlacing one set of yarns with another set oriented
crosswise. Satin, plain and twill weaves are the most commonly used weave patterns (see picture to the left). In
the weaving operation, the lengthwise yarns that form the basic structure of the fabric are called the warp and
the crosswise yarns are called the filling, also referred to as the weft. While the filling yarns undergo little strain
in the weaving process, warp yarns undergo much strain during weaving and must be processed to prepare
them to withstand the strain (Corbman, 1975).
Once size is applied, the wound beam is mounted in a loom. Shuttle looms are rapidly being replaced by
shuttleless looms, which have the ability to weave at higher speeds and with less noise. The operation of a
traditional shuttle loom is discussed in this section to illustrate the weaving process.
Shuttle looms
The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses, shuttle, reed and takeup roll. In the
loom, yarn processing includes shedding, picking, battening and taking-up operations.
Shedding. Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which the filling yarn, carried by the
shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns. On the
modern loom, simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle frame, also
known as a harness. This is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles, are attached. The
yarns are passed through the eye holes of the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses. The weave
pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on
the complexity of the weave (Corbman, 1975).
Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. The filling yarn in
inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end
to allow passage through the shed. In a traditional shuttle loom, the filling yarn is wound onto a quill, which in
turn is mounted in the shuttle. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it moves across the
loom. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle
moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the
fabric from raveling.
Battening. As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes through openings in
another frame called a reed (which resembles a comb). With each picking operation, the reed presses or
battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. Conventional shuttle
looms can operate at speeds of about 150 to 160 picks per minute.
With each weaving operation, the newly constructed fabric must be wound on a cloth beam. This process is
called taking up. At the same time, the warp yarns must be let off or released from the warp beams (Corbman,
1975).
Shuttleless Looms
Because the shuttle can cause yarns to splinter and catch, several types of shuttleless looms have been
developed. These operate at higher speeds and reduced noise levels. By the end of 1989, shuttleless looms
represented 54 percent of all looms installed, up from 15 percent in 1980. Shuttleless looms use different
techniques to transport cut pieces of fill yarn across the shed, as opposed to the continuous yarn used in shuttle
looms.
Some of the common shuttleless looms include water-jet looms, air-jet looms, rapier looms, and projectile
looms.
Water-jet looms transport the fill yarn in a high-speed jet of water and can achieve speeds of 400 to 600 picks
per minute. Water jets can handle a wide variety of fiber and yarn types and are widely used for apparel
fabrics.
Air-jet looms use a blast of air to move the fill yarn and can operate at speeds of 800 to 1,000 picks per
minute. Air looms, although limited in the types of filling yarns they can handle, are increasing in commercial
use. Yarn is drawn from the yarn package (1) by the measuring wheel and drive roller arrangement (2).
Between the yarn package and the measuring wheel is a tube through which an air current flows in opposite
direction to the yarn. This maintains a straight even feed of yarn. The yarn then forms a loop (3) which shortens
as the pick penetrates further into the shed. The main jet (4) is the major projecting force for the yarn, although
supplementary jets (5) are activated to prevent the pick from buckling.
Rapier looms use two thin wire rods to carry the fill yarn and can operate at a speed of 510 picks per minute.
Rapiers are used mostly for spun yarns to make cotton and woolen/worsted fabrics. In a double rapier loom,
two rods move from each side and meet in the middle. The fill yarn is carried from the rod on the fill side and
handed off to the rod on the finish side of the loom.
Projectile looms use a projectile to carry the fill yarn across the weave. Shuttleless looms have been replacing
the traditional fly-shuttle loom in recent years.
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