Marker Making:

Definition:
Arrangement of pattern pieces or process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern
pieces.
Points to be considered before marker making:
Fabric length must be higher than marker length.
Fabric width must be higher than marker width.
Length of the cutting table.
Production planning.
when pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth, the grain line should be parallel
to the line of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.
Marker Efficiency:
The percentage of the total fabric that is actually used in garment parts.
Area of pattern in the marker
Marker Efficiency = --------------------------------------------X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
Factors influencing Marker efficiency:
Marker planner:
Competency, experience, honesty and technical knowledge of the marker planner
Size of the garments:
Smaller and larger garment sizes Marker Efficiency
Medium garment sizes Marker Efficiency
Numbers of sizes in a style:
Fewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style Marker Efficiency
Medium numbers of sizes Marker Efficiency
Marker length:
Higher marker length Marker Efficiency.
Pattern Engineering:
Marker efficiency can be increased by changing pattern design of particular parts of the
garments.
Fabric characteristics:
Usually symmetrical fabric Marker Efficiency
Asymmetric fabric Lower marker efficiency.

 Marker making method:

Computerized method Marker Efficiency
Manual method Marker Efficiency
Marker width:
Marker width M.E. and easier marker plan
Methods of marker making
A. Manual method.
In this process, marker can be made in two ways
a. By using full size pattern:
-full size pattern pieces on marker paper or
-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a spread
B. By using miniaturized pattern:
-full size pattern pieces are reduced to 1/5 of its original size by using pantograph
-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
-Marker planning is done by using those miniaturized patterns
-reproduced full size using the mini-marker as a reference.
Area Covered by pattern measured by planimeter to get Marker efficiency.
Higher marker efficiency as control over the marker is better than the full size pattern
Rapidly being replaced by computerized method
Features of manual marker making
time consuming and require a great deal of space
Errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation, poor line definition,
placement and alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces
Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who laid out
the marker and traced it
B. computerized marker making
Very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker
efficiency and shortest response time
Production patterns may be developed on the computer or digitized or scanned in to the
computer

 Parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting orders - style
numbers, size distribution and fabric width
Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the grain alignment and prevent
overlapping of pieces
Automatic marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements and fabric
costs for designs prior to line adoption
Advantages of computerized method
Increases in material efficiency with subsequent decreases in material waste,
Time and labor savings in making markers;
Improvements in overall marker quality;
Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and
Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.
Disadvantages of computerized method:
Initial investment is high.
skilled operator is required.
Types of marker
Open Marker:
Markers made with full pattern pieces
Closed marker:
Markers made with full pattern pieces
Modes of marker:
A. nap-either-way: symmetric, non directional fabrics, considering only grain line
B. nap-one-way: asymmetrical and directional fabrics, all pattern pieces be placed on a
marker in only one direction

C. nap-up-and-down: some directional fabrics all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed
in one direction and another size placed in the opposite direction.
D. group: end to end or side to side shade variation, pattern pieces of a size of garments
are laid together in accordance to the shade of the fabric
Constraints of Marker making:
a. Grain Line: Hang and drape of the garment is depending on the matching of grain line.
To maintain grain line is one of the biggest constraints to achieve higher marker efficiency
b. Characteristics of the fabric: Special attention required to set pattern pieces on the
asymmetrical fabric, such as pile fabric, special print etc.
c. Design of the garments: Garments from check or stripe fabric requires mirror image
(matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts of the garment)
d. Cutting Quality: Marker should be made carefully so that cutting blade can move easily
in the lay
e. Production Planning: production planning is a constraint of marker making as numbers
of pieces of different sizes are not exactly proportionate.
Fabric wastage outside marker:
Ends of ply losses: For the extensibility of the fabric and limitation of cutting machines,
2 cm allowances is required in each end of the each ply.
Loss of fabric ends: during preparation of the fabric lay, the last or end remains of the
fabric roll are separated by cutting.
Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two selvedges along width. The amount of cut out is
considered 3% (approximately) along width
Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on roll than identified length
Methods of Drawing a Marker:
1. Marking directly on the fabric
a. Drawing by Chalk or pencil:
Mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or wax not allow copying least accurate method
Not applicable method for pile or woolen fabric

B. Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are sprayed over the patterns that have been laid on the
fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when they are removed

More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.

Paint can migrate under the pattern edges
Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up
The machine must be cleaned every day.

2. Marking on the paper: pattern pieces are precisely arranged on to the marker paper and
draw the outline of the patterns by using pencil. This method is widely used in the industry.
3. Computerized Drawing:
Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on screen to produce a marker
The corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen and the range of the pattern pieces
are shown on top
These pieces can be rotated, reversed and moved into place
The computer can calculate marker efficiency
The completed marker is then drawn using a linked digital plotter.
These systems are extremely quick and accurate and an unlimited quantity of markers can
be produced and/or reproduced
4. Photographic System: patterns pieces are set onto a light sensitive paper passing through
ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor. This method is quick and clean
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
a. Carbon duplicating: Carbon paper in between two marker paper
Suitable to copy 3-4 pieces
This duplication method has fairly low capital and material costs

 Dirty, poor impression in the lower layer

Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is difficult, labour intensive process
b. Spirit duplicating: working procedure is same as Office duplicating machine/Xerox
machine
Only significant difference is that the size of the machine
Suitable for copying 40-50 pieces
Not suitable for higher marker width
May produce defective copy if master copy set on the machine improperly.
c. Photographic method: With the photographic method, the original marker is set onto a
light sensitive paper using ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor. This
method is quick and clean and produces unlimited numbers of duplications
d. Perforated method: obsolete technique that involves punching a series of perforation
around the marker, placing it on the fabric and lightly dusting with chalk. It can be used
many times
dirty process and poor line definition .