A Hikers Guide

to the Geology of
Crater Lake

Mark I. Moore
80

Notes & Drawings

79

Notes & Drawings

78

Photograph Sources

Printed by ABC Printers

1291 Industrial Way, Longview, WA
Photographs by Mark I. Moore, except: pg.9, Lava in water; pg.11, Basalt; pg.13,
Andesite; pg.14, Dacite; pg.15, Group of dacite; pg.16, Rhyolite (top, right);
pg.16, Rhyolite (bottom, right); pg19, Cluster of pumice; pg.20, Earth; pg.21, The
earths layers; pg.22, Temperatures in the earth; pg.24, North American plate
and Pacific Plate; pg.25, Cut away view of earths layers; pg.26, Earths tectonic
plates; pg.28, Mount Mazama painting; pg.29, Ashfall from Mount Mazama
blast; pg.30, 4 diagrams indicating process of Mount Mazama collapse; pg.31,
Cut-away view of magma chamber; pg.34, Regional map of crater lake area;
pg.61, GIS interpretation of bottom of Crater Lake; pg.69, Generalized Geologic
Map of Mount Mazama and Vicinity.

Pg.9, source unknown; pg.11, http://geology.about.com/library/bl/images/ blbasalt.htm; pg.13,

http://www.casdn.neu.edu/ ~geology/department/staff/colgan/iceland/minerals/andesite.htm; pg.15,
http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/Products/ Pglossary/dacite.html, group dacite, http:/
/www.chemistrydaily.com/chemistry/Dacite pg.16, (top, right) http://www.musee.ensmp.fr/
gm/669.html (bottom, right), http://resourcescommittee.house.gov/subcommittees/emr/usgsweb/
photogallery/; pg.19, http://volcano.und.nodak.edu/vwdocs/ volc_images/north_america/ crater_
lake.html, Photograph by Steve Mattox, August 1987; pg.20, Worldwatch Extra 2003 cover page;
pg.28 - Paul Rockwood, Crater Lake National History Association, http://geopubs.wr.usgs.gov/factsheet/fs092-02/; pg.21, http:/ /www.uwec.edu/grossmzc/heidtken.html; pg.22, http:/
/www.uwec.edu/grossmzc/ heidtken.html; pg.24, Ken Tabbutt .ppt slideshow; pg.25, Ken Tabbutt
.ppt slideshow; pg.26, Ken Tabbut .ppt slideshow; pg.29 - area covered by Mazama ash, Williams
and Goles (1968).http:/ /volcano.und.nodak.edu/vwdocs/volc_images/north_america/crater_
lake.htm; pg.30, graphics from http://geopubs.wr.usgs.gov/ fact-sheet/fs092-02/; pg.31,
Understanding the Bimodal eruptions of Mount Mazama by Brandon L. Browne,
http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol29b.htm., drawing by C.R. Bacon; pg.34, National Park Service,
Crater Lake; pg34,regional road map, National Park, National Park Service, U.S. Department of
the Interior, online; pg.61, http://geopubs.wr.usgs.gov/fact-sheet/fs092-02/, USGS Fact Sheet 09292; pg.69, Generalized Geologic Map of Mount Mazama and Vicinity, CVO website, Topinka,
USGS/CVO, 2001; Modified from: Bacon et. al. 1997, USGS Open-File report 97-487; Map data
source: C.R. Bacon, unpublished mapping, 1996, some features from: U.S. National Park Service
Map;

77

USGS, Crater Lake Data Clearing house. <http://craterlake.wr.usgs.gov/data.html >.

Ormsby, Tim, et. Al., Getting to Know ArcGIS desktop. ESRI Press, 2004.

Hikers Guide to the

Geology of
Crater Lake

Mark I. Moore

The Evergreen State CollegeSummer 2005

76

hike.htm#hike>.

Contents

Mafic versus Felsic. <http://198.237.133.13/gphs/home/Departments/Science/Strickler/ Igneous

Rocks/sld010.htm>.
Mount Mazama and Crater Lake: Growth and Destruction of a Cascade Volcano, United States
Geological Survey Fact Sheet 092-02, < http://geopubs.wr.usgs.gov/factsheet/fs092-02/>.

Introduction

Chapter 1 Igneous Rocks

Rhyolite. <http://www.musee.ensmp.fr/gm/669.html>.

10

Rhyolite. <http://resourcescommittee.house.gov/subcommittees/emr/usgsweb/

1. Classifying Igneous Rocks

Pumice Desert. <http://www.volcaniclegacy.net/02-pumicedesert/info.html>.

photogallery/>.

1a. Basalt

11

1b. Andesite

13

1c. Dacite

14

Skitrails. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/brochures/skiing.htm>.

1d. Rhyolite

15

Trails. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/trail.htm>.

1e. Scoria

17

1f. Pumice

18

1g. Some Other Good Stuff

19

Chapter 2 Our Dynamic Earth

20

1. The Earths Many Layers

21

2. Plate Tectonics and The Ring of Fire

24

3. Mountain Building

26

4. Mount Mazama and the Formation of Crater Lake

27

Chapter 3 Things to Know Before Hiking in

Crater Lake National Park

32

Road Guide. <http://www.dartmouth.edu/~volcano/texts/DekCraterL.html>.

Rocks and the Rock Cycle. <http://as.tsud.edu/smixon/earth_science/notes/rocks.htm>.

Trails and Campgrounds of Crater Lake National Park, <http://www.nps.gov/crla/hrs/hrs9.htm>.

Volcanic Rocks. <http://volcano.und.nodak.edu/vwdocs/vwlessons/volcanic_rocks.html>.
Newspapers, Magazine, Professional Papers, and others
Allen, John Eliot, 1984. The Caves of Crater Lake National Park. Oregon Geology 46(1):3-6.
Bacon, Charles R., et. Al., Volcano and Earthquake Hazards in the Crater Lake Region
Oregon. United States Geological Survey, Open File Report 97-487.
Hill, Richard, Three Small Tremors Jolt the Crater Lake Area. The Oregonian, Dec. 30,1994,
pB03.HiHill, Richard H.
National Park Service Brochure, Crater Lake: Exploring Crater Lake. Obtained from Crater Lake
National Park north entry road toll booth.
National Park Service, Nature Trail Booklets: Guides to Annie Creek, Castle Crest, and Godfrey
Glen Trails. Crater Lake National Park: Crater Lake Natural History
Association.
Peterson, Pete, Crater Lake National Park. personal communication, 541-594-2211x 3093.
Scientific American, Special Edition: Our Ever Changing Earth. Sept. 26, 2005

1. Where the Heck is Crater Lake National Park

33

2. Fees and Other Costs

34

http://www.gis.state.or.us/data/alphalist.html

3. Camping in the Park

35

http://www.nwhi.org/nhi/gisdata/oregon.asp

4. Items to Bring With You

36

http://www.doylesdartden.com/gis/oregon_gis.html

Spatial Data Sources and Reference

GeoComm.com

75

Smith, Warren D., Discovery Of The Fumaroles At The Pinnacles, Wheeler Canyon. <http:/
/www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol8-3a.htm>.

continued . . .

Swartzlow, Carl R., The Geology of the Garfield Trail. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol72b.htm>.

Ibid Speculation of Specularite.
Uhler, John William, Welcome to the Crater Lake National Park Hiking Page <http:/
/www.crater.lake.national-park.com/hike.htm>.
Warbanks, Warren C., Crater Lake Waters. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol20j.htm>.
Internet Sources without Known Referenced Authors
Andesite. < http://www.casdn.neu.edu/~geology/department/staff/colgan/iceland/minerals/
andesite.htm>.

5. Things You Are Not Supposed to Do

Chapter 4 Trails

37
38

1. Sinnott Memorial Overlook

40

2. The Pinnacles

42

3. Sun Notch

44

Annie Creek Canyon Trail, Compass Monkey. < http://www.compassmonkey.com/places/

activities.php/884/hiking>.

4. Castle Crest Wildflower

48

Summer Backcountry Use. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/brochures/backcountry.htm>.

5.Godfrey Glen

50

Basalt. <http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/Products/Pglossary/basalt.html>.

6. Annie Creek Canyon

53

7. Annie Creek Spring

55

8. Red Cone Springs

56

MapCrater Lake: Easy Trails

58

9. The Watchman

59

CL quarter. <http://usmint.gov/mint_programs/50sq_program/states/index.cfm?state=or>

10. Garfield Peak

62

Crater Lake NP: Pumice, Scoria, and Other Terms. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/pumice.htm>.

11. Mount Scott

64

Crater Lake Park Map. <http://data2.itc.nps.gov/parks/crla/ppMaps/CRLAmap1%2Epdf>.

12. Union Peak

65

13. Cleetwood Cove

66

MapCrater Lake: Moderate and Strenuous Trails

67

Basalt. <http://geology.about.com/library/bl/images/blbasalt.htm>.
Bowens Reaction Series. <http://jersey.uoregon.edu/~mstrick/AskGeoMan/geoQuerry32.html>.
Cascade Ski Areas. <http://www.skimountaineer.com/ Cascade
Ski/CascadeSki.php?name=CraterLake>.
Chapter 2: Rocks. <http://oldweb.uwp.edu/academic/geology/workshop/rock.htm>.
Cinder Cones. <http://www.gly.fsu.edu/~salters/GLY1000/9Volcanoes/9_Volcanoes.htm>.

Day hikes. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/brochures/dayhikes.htm>.

Earth Science Lab: Composition of Igneous Rocks. < http://facweb.bhc.edu/academics/science/
harwoodr/Geol101/Labs/Igneous/Cindex.htm>.
Formation of the Crater Lake Environment. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/hrs/hrs1.htm>.
Geology Fieldnotes: Crater Lake National Park, Oregon. <http://www2.nature.nps.gov/ geology/
parks/crla/>.
Geology of Crater Lake National Park. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/brochures/geology.htm>.

Index

68

Reference Materials

72

Highway Map. <http://data2.itc.nps.gov/parks/crla/ppMaps/CRLAmap2%2Epdf>.

Hiking Guide: Crater Lake National Park. <http://www.crater.lake.national-park.com/

74

Kirk, Ruth, Exploring Crater Lake Country. University of Washington Press, 1975.

Introduction

Lambert, David, and the Diagram Group, The Field Guide to Geology. Cambridge University
Press, 1988.
McPhee, John, Basin and Range. Farrar, Straus, Giroux, New York, 1981.
Ibid The Annals of the Former World. Farrar, Straus, Giroux, New York, 1998.
Monroe, James S., Wicander, Reed, Physical Geology: Exploring the Earth (Fifth Edition).
Thomson Brooks/Cole, 2005.

Mark I. Moore

Mueler, Marge and Ted, Fire, Faults, & Floods: A road Guide & Trial Guide to Exploring the
Origins of the Columbia River Basin. University of Idaho Press, 1997.
Oregon and Washington Tourbook, AAA. 2002 Edition.
Ritchie, David, The Ring of Fire. McClellund and Steart Ltd., 1981.

This book is designed for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts who want to
understand the geology of Crater Lake National Park and not face the confusion
of a geology textbook or other associated material. I go to great lengths to define
geologic terms and phenomenon in a way that is easily comprehensible and user
friendly. Additionally, I understand that not everyone completely grasps such
concepts as plate tectonics or the process of mountain building so the first half of
the book is a users guide for the earth.
The second part of the book covers Crater Lake National Park and the
geology of the trails in and around Crater Lake. We will talk about the different
types of rocks and formations on and around the trails, how to identify them and
how and why they are in that spot. Some of the trails have vistas overlooking
Crater Lake so well also talk about features inside of the lake that are
important to understanding the dynamic nature of the park.
For those of you who are just now looking at this book and are on your
way to Crater Lake National Park stop now and turn around. Go back and
retrieve your Global Positioning Satellite (GPS) device. Your enjoyment of this
book will be greatly enhanced by the use of a GPS as I have placed coordinates
for many geologic features and lookout points in the Trails section of the book.
I hope that you enjoy the preceding pages as I have enjoyed writing them.

Robinson, Arthur H., et. Al., Elements of Cartography (Sixth Edition). John Wiley & Sons, 1995.
Shand, Samuel James, Eruptive Rocks; their genesis, composition,
classification, and their relation to ore deposits, with a chapter on meteorites.
Hafner Publication Company, 1969.
Strickler, Michael D., The Laypersons Guide to The Josephine Ophiolite and Associated
Volcanic Arc Materials. Unpublished Masters Thesis, personal
communication.
Toops, Constance, Crater Lake National Park Trails. Crater Lake National History Association,
1990.
Volcano, Ed. Time Life Books. Time Life Books Inc., 1982.
Williams, Howell, Crater Lake: The Story of its Origins. University Of California Press:
Berkely and Los Angeles Press, 1963.
Internet Sources with Authors
Allen, John Elliot, Some Water Falls in Crater Lake National Park. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/
notes/vol8-1d.htm>.
Atwood, W.R., Dr., Glaciation of Mount Mazama. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol4- 3b.htm>.
Brown, Brandon L., Understanding the Bimodal Eruptions of Mount Mazama. < http:/
/www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol29b.htm>.
Buktenica, Mark, Annie Spring Responds to Long-term Drought and Municipal Water Use.
<http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol24g.htm>.
Butler, John E., Castle Crest After Dark. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/vol32-33l.htm>.
Cranson, K.R., Cinder Cones in Crater Lake National Park. <http://www.nps.gov/crla/ notes/vol3233e.htm>.
Salinas, John, Whitehorse Ponds: A Special Aquatic Study. < http://www.nps.gov/crla/notes/
vol26i.htm>.

73

Reference Materials

Chapter 1

Books
Bishop, A.C., et Al., Cambridge Guide to Rocks and Fossils. Cambridge University Press, 2001.
Bishop, Ellen Morris, In Search of Ancient Oregon: A Geological and Natural History. Timber
Press Inc., 2003
Bowen, N.L., The Evolution of the Igneous Rocks. Dover Publications Inc., 1956.

Igneous Rocks

Bullard, Fred M., Volcanoes of the Earth. University of Texas Press, 1976.
Busby, Arthur B. III, et Al., The Nature Company Guides: Rocks and Fossils. Time Life Books:
Sheena Coupe Publishing, 1996.
Ibid - Volcanoes: In history, in theory, in eruption. University of Texas Press, 1962.
Davis, George H., Reynolds, Stephen J. (Second Edition), Structural Geology of Rocks and
Regions. John Wiley and Sons, Inc, 1996.
Decker, Robert and Barbara, Road Guide to Crater Lake National Park. Double Decker Press,
1988.
Diller, Joseph Silas and Patton, Horace Bushnell, The Geology and Petrography of Crater Lake
National Park. Washington Government Printing Office, 1902.
Dixon, Dougal, The Practical Geologist. Simon & Schuster Inc., 1992.
Drury, S.A., Image Interpretation in Geology. Allen and Unwin, 1987.
Ekman, Leonard C., Scenic Geology of the Pacific Northwest. Binfords & Mort Publishers, 1965.
Erickson, Jon, Plate Tectonics: Unraveling the Mysteries of the Earth. Checkmark Books, 2001.
Fiero, Bill, Geology of the Great Basin: A Natural History. Reno: University of Nevada Press,
1986.
Gulick, Bill, Roadside History of Oregon. Mountain Press Publishing, 2001.
Hall, Anthony, Igneous Petrology. Longman Scientific and Technical, 1987.
Harmon, Rick, Crater Lake National Park: A History. Oregon State University Press, 2002.
Jewell, Judy, Oregon. Fodors Travel Publications, 1996.
Judd, Ron C., and Nelson, Dan A., Pacific Northwest Hiking: The Complete Guide to More Than
1,000 Hikes in Washington and Oregon; Fourth Edition. Avalon Travel
Publishing, May, 2002.
King, Philip, B., The Evolution of North America., Princeton University Press, 1977.

72

Phantom Ship,45-47

Classifying
Igneous
Rocks

Pinnacles, The,35,42-43,51
Plinian Column,30
Pumice,18,31
Red Cone Springs,56,57
Rhyolite,15,18
Rhyodacite,15,31,42
Ryhodacitic Obsidean,16
Ring of Fire,26
Scoria,17,56

This section describes several

types of igneous rocks found within
Crater Lake National Park.
An
igneous rock is created when molten
rock inside the earth, or magma,
begins the process of crystallization
caused by cooling.
Generally,
anything that flies, oozes or spits out
of a volcano is an igneous rock. I say
generally because anyone who viewed
the film Joe Versus The Volcano
knows differently! Back to the good
stuff. . .

rock lying around. If you can see

crystals on the surface the rock has a
phaneritic texture and indicates that
it cooled slowly from its magmatic
state. On the other hand, if you are
unable to see crystals on the rock,
geologists would say that it has a
aphanitic texture and cooled quickly.
Additionally, the composition
of an igneous rock can also be
determined by the overall color of the
specimenmore specifically, the
darkness of color. We rate the darker,
blacker rocks as mafic (primary
composition of magnesium and iron),
the lighter, creamy colored rocks as
felsic (primary composition of feldspar
and silica), and intermediate rocks
which, as the name implies, has an
even blend of felsic and mafic rock
properties.

Classification of an igneous
rock begins with two main
observations: (1) texture and
(2) composition. The texture of a rock
identifies how fast the rock cooled
and plays a part in identifying some of
the minerals that compose the
specimen. Go ahead and pick up a
10

Shield Volcano,65
Sinnott Memorial Overlook,40,41
Specularite,41,59
Subduction Zone,25,26
Cascadia Subduction Zone27
Sun Notch, 44,45
Silica Dioxide,11
Union Peak,28,65
Vesicular,12
Watchman, The,28,45,59
Wizard Island,59-61

71

Index
Andesite,13,62

Outer Core,21,22,23

Annie Creek Canyon,53

Felsic,10

Aphanitic,10,13

Fumaroles,51

Applegate Peak,45

Garfield Peak,62,63

Ash,19,29

Geographic Information Systems (GIS),60-61

Bacon, Charles R.,31

Godfrey Glen,50

Basalt,11,12,14,26

Gabbro,23

Basement Fracture, 27

Hillman Peak,28,66-67

Camping-

Intermediate,10

Lost Creek Campground,35

Kerr Notch,45

Mazama Campground,35

Llao Rock,62

Castle Crest Wildflower,48-49

Mafic,10,11,65

Cinder Cone,56,59

Mount Mazama,27,28

Cleetwood Cove,61,66

The overall content of silica

(Si) and oxygen (O), commonly
referred to as silicon dioxide (SiO2),
contained within an igneous rock
provides more information about its
origin and possible composition. More

on that in a bit.
Lets start by
learning about some of the more
common igneous rocks found within
the park.

Basalt

Eruption,27-29,42

Crater Lake

Single Vent Phase, 29,30

Creation of27

Ring Vent Phase,29,30

Cristobalite,65

Mount Saint Helens,15,29

Dacite,14

Mount Scott,64

Dike,45

Munson Creek,48

Earth,21

Valley,50

Continental Crust,22-25

Obsidian,19

Crust,21,23

Ophiolite,25

Inner Core,21,22,23

Orogeny,26

Mantle,21,22,23

Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), 34,39,65

Oceanic Crust,22-25,26

Phaneritic,10

70

Basalt
comprises
approximately 90% of all volcanic
rock on earth. It flows very well and
likes to get out and move about the
landscape. This stuff likes traveling
so much that most of the Pacific
Northwest and parts of Idaho is
covered by a type of basalt called flood
basalt.

basalt on and in the earth. The

photograph above represents a chunk
of basalt with several small, green
crystals towards the bottom of the
rock.
You will sometimes see a
variety of different crystals and rust
on basalt. Basalt is mafic, containing
between 45% to 52% silica in addition
to large quantities of iron which may
rust over time.

There are several types of

11

Another interesting feature of

certain types of basalt are its
vesicular nature. Vesi . . . What did
you say? Oftentimes,
gasses and
water vapor get trapped within the
magma forming pockets or vesicles.
These vesicles are perfect for the
formation of tons of great crystals.
Can you say agates?

Geologists try to keep things

as simple as possible. So, if you ever
have trouble understanding terms,
break the word down to its root. Its
usually fairly no-nonsense.
O n e m o r e t h i n g a b o ut
identifying basalt. Have you ever
noticed when objects are placed in the
sun they tend to fade? Rocks are no
different, especially basalt. Take a
look at the pictures below. They are a
prime example of a process called
chemical weathering. This process
affects most rocks but more noticeably
darker, mafic rocks such as basalt.

You will not find too much

basalt near the rim of Crater Lake as
most of it was ejected around the base
of the mountain by other small
volcanoes. It is important however to
know and understand how to identify
this type of rock as it is everywhere!

The map below shows the many different types of magma and other
volcanic material that are in the area of Mount Mazama.
Additionally, the map identifies more than 10 geologic features and
their relation to the various types of volcanic discharges.

Notice the extent of color change in these rocks!

Remember that not all rocks are what they appear.

12

69

Crater Lake: Moderate and Strenuous Trails

Andesite

Key

North Entrance Road

1. The Watchman
2. Cleetwood Cove
3. Mount Scott
4. Garfield Peak
5. Union Peak

2.

1.
3.
4.
Pinnacles Drive
Highway 62

Rim Drive East

South
Entrance

5.
68

Andesite is the most abundant

rock at Crater Lake.
It is an
intermediate rock, with 53% to 65%
silica and varied content to include
feldspars and others within the
silicate group.
The rocks spotty
appearance is mainly attributed to a
mineral called plagioclase feldspar.
This mineral creates beautiful
crystals seen by the naked eye.

magmas erupt at temperatures

between 900C and 1100C. Andesite
is an intermediate igneous rock which
generally has a green tinge, unlike
basalt which is usually darker in color
and without the green. Andesite cools
moderately quick and is aphanitic.
Whoops, there is one of those big
words again.
Andesites name originates
from the Andes Mountains in western
South America. This type of rock is
primarily found around the Ring of
Fire (skip ahead to Chapter 2 if you
really cant wait) and is formed from
lava which have a particular
mineral content.

Andesitic magma commonly

erupts from stratovolcanoes as thick
lava flows, some reaching several
kilometers in length. Andesite magma
can also generate strong explosive
eruptions to form volcanic flows,
surges and enormous eruption
columns of magma. Andesitic

13

Dacite

Dacite is a hard, somewhat

glassy, rock. It is typically grey in
color with lighter variations existing.
The opposite page demonstrates some
of those different colors. Because
dacite contains 63% to 68% silica, it
does not flow at a high velocity.
Dacitic magma typically erupts from
volcanoes to form rounded domes.
Unlike basalt, dacite tends to hang
around the general area in which it

(Bottom) Close-up of Hillman Peak, (Opposite Page) - Arrow

shows the staining of the caldera wall from oxidation

was released.
I continue to mention the silica
content of various igneous rocks.
Why is this important? Magma that
is high in silica has a high resistance
to flow, or increased viscosity. The
more silica in a rock, the slower it
moves.
Eruptions of dacite typically
form cones as demonstrated by a few
14

Cleetwood Cove
Distance:
1mi./1.6km.
Difficulty:
Strenuous
Trailhead:
4.5 miles north from highway 62 and Rim Drive junction,
well marked parking lot.

67

Cleetwood Cove
The boat ride available at
Cleetwood Cove affords an excellent
opportunity to view features within
the lake with a fairly unique view.
One geologic feature that attracts
attention during the boat ride is
Hillman Peak as seen here from a
lookout point on the rim.

top of the mountain collapsed forming

the caldera, it pulled half of the vent
inside the chamber leaving the
innards of the vent exposed. Look
back at the diagram on page 30 for a
refresher on the collapse of Mount
Mazama and the creation of the
caldera. The gasses inside of the vent
oxidized the surrounding rock causing
it to discolor providing us with
the magnificent portrait seen here.

Around 70,000 y/a a volcanic

vent formed on the flank of Mount
Mazama. These vents typically emit
heavily acidic gasses and other
noxious fumes from the magma
chamber. It acted as a pressure relief
valve for Mount Mazama. When the

This hike has a fairly extreme

vertical descent so be prepared.
Children are not recommended on
this hike.

66

eruptions from Mount Saint Helens

from 1980 through 1986. Watch out
when identifying dacite. After many
millions of years dacite cones often

break into thin layers similar to a

head of lettuce.
It is easy to
misidentify this rock as shale or other
layered type of rock.

Rhyolite
The bulk of Crater Lake
National Parks rhyolite is mixed in
with dacite to form rhyodacite. There
is another one of those geologic terms
again. Break it down into its root and
you come up with rhyolite and dacite.
I guess it could be considered a hybrid
rock!

or more silica along with other gasses

and minerals. If you do end up trying
to identify a possible ryholitic rock,
they are usually light colored with
shades of brown, green, gray and/or
white.
Look for several different
colors in one rock specimen with a
somewhat layered appearance.

Rhyolite is the god (or goddess)

of all silicic magmas. It contains 70%

Since rhyolite and rhyodacite

contain high quantities of SiO2, look
15

for the stuff closer to the rim of

Crater Lake. If you want to see a nice
chunk of ryhodacitic obsidian, drive
on the north entrance road towards
the lake. Stop at the first turnout
past Pumice Desert. Great stuff!

Union Peak
This delightful trail utilizes
part of the PCT and then branches off
to the right (traveling southbound) to
the hike up the peak.
Although
Union Peak is off the beaten path it is
geologically significant.
Rhyolite (top & bottom).
Notice how the color varies
between rocks

Chunks of Ryhodacitic
Obsidian
with
rock
hammer & crayon for
scale.

Islands are great examples of overlapping shield volcanoes.

Because
mafic magma is very viscous and likes
to travel about the landscape, it
builds upon itself adding layer upon
layer until it creates the appearance
of a shield.

The most eye-popping feature

of the mountain is its horn shaped
peak.
The peak represents a
hardened plug of magma that halted
more liquid rock from escaping the
mountain. The plug is composed of
54% silica which would make it mafic
and very dense. The plug is older
than Mount Mazama but not more
than one million years of age.
Throughout the years, glaciers
stripped away the looser, less dense
material leaving the plug exposed to
the elements.

The rocks of Union Peak on

the southeastern and southwestern
side contain a silicate mineral found
in very few places in the world.
C r i s t o b a li t e i s t h e c he m i c a l
equivalent to quartz but differs in its
crystalline composition.
It is
necessary to have a hand lens or
other magnifying device to see these
crystals as they are less than 1 millimeter in diameter with a double
ended, four-sided pyramid shape.
Look for them in the cavities of rocks.
If you didnt bring your hand lens you
are out of luck for now.

Union Peak is an old shield

volcano which further reinforces its
mafic classification. The Hawaiian

Union Peak
Distance:
2.9mi./4.6km.
Difficulty:
Moderate+
Trailhead:
2.8 miles south of highway 62, 4251.220N 12211.450W,
PCT trailhead.
16

65

Mount Scott
The trail up to Mount Scott is
a real kicker. Bring a plentiful supply
of water and your binoculars. The
views from the fire lookout are
spectacular. With a peak of 8,938
feet, it is the highest point in the
park.

Mount Scott is a 420,000 year

old volcanic cone that rests on the
flank of Mount Mazama. The west
side of the mountain was destroyed
by glaciers. See if you can find any
signs of glacial activity and enjoy the
view.

I created a quick reference chart to consolidate the literature we

discussed in the last few pages. It is helpful when trying to remember some of
the more basic information about these four types of igneous rocks.
Basalt
Name
Mafic
Classification
Silica content <50% SiO2

Andesite
Intermediate
~60% SiO2
phaneritic /
aphanitic

Dacite
Felsic
~63%-68% SiO2
phaneritic /
aphanitic

aphanitic
Texture aphanitic
Cooling
varies
varies
800C
Temperature 1400C
Rock Color Black, dark
grey, green,
grey or lighter white, or variable
grey
brown or purplish
grey
light colors
Color Index

Scoria
You might recognize this
igneous rock.
Scoria is everywhere! People mostly use it for
decorative rocks to border their
lawn.

Mount Scott
Distance:
Difficulty:
Trailhead:

2.5mi./4km.
Moderate+
East Rim Drive across from Cloudcap overlook
64

Rhyolite
Ultra-Felsic
>70% SiO2

Scoria is the chemical

equivalent of basalt.
It has
relatively low silica content and is
vesicular in nature. Crater Lake
has an abundance of this rock.
Dont worry, well talk more about
this when we arrive at the trails.
17

U-shaped glacial
valley

Pumice
Growing up in Southern
Oregon, I have fond memories of
collecting various rock specimens to
see which would float. And after all
those years it still fun to watch.

equivalent of rhyolite except that

this rock contained huge amounts of
gas when it was ejected from a
volcano.
Since pumice has an
extremely high silica content
Pumice cools so quickly that crystals
do not have time to organize
themselves. Therefore, pumice must
be. . . aphanitic or phaneritic?

Ma n y bo o k s a nd o t he r
literature on volcanism (the study of
volcanoes) refer to pumice as frothy
glass.
It is the compositional

Llao Rock
with dotted
lines representing the
former glacial
valley. (top &
bottom)

Notice the great colors in this pumice samplea crayon used for scale.
Remember that not all pumice will be high and dry so look for varying colors.

18

Garfield Peak
Distance:
1.7mi./2.7km.
Difficulty:
Moderate
Trailhead:
Far east end of Rim Village on the other side of the lodge.
63

Garfield Peak
The Garfield Peak hike is one
of the more popular hikes in Crater
Lake National Park because it has a
fantastic view of the lake and is very
close to the epicenter of activityRim
Village.

Pumice with a size 11 shoe for scale

determine if you have the beginnings

of clay at your feet is to add a little bit
of water to the mix. If the mixture
becomes slimy and balls together you
most likely have clay. Also, give it a
lick.
You can test for clay by
confirming its grainy taste.

The hike to Garfield Peak

climbs up the west flank while rising
from 7,050 to 8,060 feet. One of the
more outstanding features of this hike
is the abundance of decay occurring in
the igneous rocks. The tremendous
amount of reds and browns on these
rocks elude to iron oxide.

On several locations throughout the hike, you will see rocks with
white spots especially where a great
diversity of rocks are found. The
white areas indicate that during the
cooling process of the rock, hot moist
gasses escaped the rock, oxidizing the
surrounding material.

The section of the trail where

it first touches the rim, the rocks of
mostly andesite conglomerate have
already begun to break down into
their mo st basic components
providing the building blocks for soil.

One of the more prominent

features visible from the peak is Llao
Rock.
This dacite magma flow
completely filled a glacial valley
approximately 7,900 y/a. Take a close
look at the shape of this massive flow.
It took the shape of a U-cut valley
formed by a glacier. At its maximum
thickness, Llao Rock is 500 to 600 feet
which is impressive any way you look
at it.

For instance, the majority of

the broken down brown matter is the
mineral limonite (yellow if it is
diluted) and the red matter is the
mineral hematite. The more chalky
looking matter has been decomposed
into kaolin which is the main
component of clay. A quick way to

Some Other stuff

ObsidianA deceivingly mafic rock
obsidian is quite the opposite. It
forms when high silica magma cools
rapidly. Sometimes, mineral crystals
are visible with a microscope or high
powered magnifying glass.

to include ash and volcanic bombs

Volcanic Bombs (footballs)
Globules of magma that are ejected
from volcanoes and form the shape of
a football when in mid-airNatures
most efficient shape.

AshA fragment of rock that is

ejected from a volcano measuring less
than 2mm in diameter.
TephraAirborne volcanic material

62

19

Chapter 2
Our Dynamic Earth

represent post-caldera volcanic

activity or small eruptions of magma
after the initial eruption of Mount
Mazama.

35 angle with a spiral trail spanning

1.6 miles. Unfortunately, the only
way to access this trail are the
boatrides available at Cleetwood Cove
which are quite expensive. Either
way, Wizard Island is a beautiful
representation of how nature forms
the most beautiful sights on earth.

If you choose to hike the two

trails on Wizard Island, be prepared
to hike up a fairly steep incline. The
slopes of this cinder cone have a nasty

The Watchman
Distance:
0.8mi./1.1km.
Difficulty:
Moderate
Trailhead:
West Rim Drive, 4256.375N 12210.350W, large parking area
Offers lookout to Wizard Island and other significant sites.
20

61

The earth is truly a majestic

creature. Similar to my computer, it
has many background processes that
we as humans take for granted.
Additionally, there are many main
systems and sub-systems which
depend on the earths natural cycling
of water, nutrients, and energy input
with the sun. All of which are vital to
our mass survival.

hypothesize about the processes that

created various phenomenon and the
energy involved in that creation.
In the following pages, we will
discuss the geological processes that
created some of the most spectacular
rock formations and mountain ranges
in the United States. Entire books
are dedicated to understanding these
processes, however I will condense
the information into a package that
will make sense and enhance your
knowledge of our dynamic earth.

As we begin to walk on the

trails of Crater Lake National Park
and engage nature, try and

The Earths Many Layers

Wizard Island is one of the
most photographed features in and
around Crater Lake. It rises 760 feet
above the lake and has an andesitic
base. Exactly how is old is Wizard
Island?

Wizard Island was formed between

800 and 1,200 y/a.
The image on the opposite
page is a Geographic Information
Systems (GIS) interpretation of the
bottom of Crater Lake based on a
2001 sonar survey. It is important to
keep in mind that Wizard Island is
not a small cinder cone. The base of
the of island reaches deep into Crater
Lake approximately 2,000 feet.

The oldest wood on the island

is approximately 800 years old.
Additionally, because there are no
signs of pillow basalt (basaltic magma
that is released from fissures or other
magmatic vents underwater that
looks look like pillows when cooled) on
the island, geologists believe that

The volcanic cones indicated in

the graphic (Merriam Cone, the Lava
Dome and the Central Platform) also
60

As you can see in this

cut-away view, the earth has
four main layers. Keep in mind
that these layers vary greatly in
size, contour, and composition.
When discussing the earth and
its internal composition, many
unknowns still exist. Scientists
and geologists gather all
available information and
present a highly educated guess
regarding
the
internal
composition of the earth. Until
21

someone or something physically

witnesses the inside of the earth, it is
pure speculation.
Here is the
generally accepted idea of how the
earth is put together.

12% of the outer core consists of

sulfur. That is quite a bit of stink!
So then, if the core is so hot,
why isnt it liquid? Im glad you
asked. If you were to drill straight
down from wherever you are standing
on the earth, you would have to go
down about 1,800 miles before you
reached the outer core. All of that
overlying rock, magma, and various
other minerals create extreme
pressure. In fact, every mile that you
drill below the surface of the earth
the temperature increases by about
100F.

The inner core is judged to

consist of almost solid iron and
around 10%-20% nickel. This solid
mass provides the earth with a
wonderful magnetic field that helps
us with finding our way around
(i.e. compass
navigation).
Temperature estimates inside the
core range from approximately
4,500F to 9,000F.

Your cars radiator is a great

example of this principle. A gasoline
engine produces a great amount of
heat, more than enough to boil water.
But, when the water in your radiator
is heated it cannot boil because it is
under pressure (about 12 pounds per
square inch). Try to imagine the
pressure exerted by over 1,800 miles
of overlaying matter on the inner
core. There will be no boiling here!
The liquid outer core
surrounds the iron/nickel innards of
the earth and consists of less dense
materials such as silicon, nickel,
potassium, and oxygen. Experiments
with meteorites (rocks from space)
allow scientists to estimate that about

Next in line is the mantle.

Approximately 83% of the earths
volume occurs in the mantle,
predominantly a mineral called
peridotite. This layer of the earth is
massive. Because the mantle is found
at shallow depths and extends deep
22

The Watchman
The beginning of the trail is somewhat deceiving as it is fairly level.
However, as soon as it rounds the
bend, it begins to show why this trail
receives a moderate difficulty rating.
As you walk up the initial section of
the trail notice the buildup of
specularite on the rocks. If you recall,
specularite was also found on the trail
down to Sinnott Memorial Overlook.
Check the side of the trail for chunks
of ryhodacitic obsidian. If you dont
remember what it looks like turn
back to page 15 for a refresher.

Lightning Springs picnic area which

intersects an 8.2 mile section of the
PCT (4256.551N 12210.354W).
Take advantage of the various viewpoints on each side of the trail and
identify some of the features around
the park.
If you made it to the top of The
Watchman feel proud of yourself for
climbing up 500 vertical feet from the
start of the trail. For some reason it
seems like it is more than that! The
most startling view once atop The
Watchman is the impressive colors
and prominence of Wizard Island.

There is a terrific view of

Overhead
view
of
Wizard
Island
(remember that this is
a cinder cone). The
crater atop this cinder
cone is 300 feet in
diameter and 90 feet
deep.

59

Crater Lake: Easy Trails

within the earth, there are many

structural changes that occur within
this layer.
The mantle has a
generally uniform composition
throughout.
However, increasing
pressure from the strata above
changes the crystalline structure of
the minerals.

Key

North Entrance Road

1. Sinnott Memorial Overlook

2. The Pinnacles
3. Sun Notch

7.

4. Castle Crest Wildflower

The last and most familiar

layer of the earth is the crust. Only
0.7% of the earths mass is found
here. There are two types of crust;
the continental crust and the
oceanic crust.
Geologists and
others know more about these two
layers because they are easier to
access.

5. Godfrey Glen
6. Annie Creek Canyon
7. Red Cone Springs

1.
3.
Pinnacles Drive

4.

Highway
62

Entrance

Because humans have the

ability to measure seismic waves
(waves produced by earthquakes) and
have observed the material on the
sea-floor with deep-sea drilling
platforms and submersibles, we know
that the upper portion of the oceanic
crust is composed of basalt and the
lower portion is composed of gabbro.
Gabbro is much less common
than its counterpart basalt and
contains essentially the same
minerals.
However, gabbro is
phaneritic. For a refresher on basalt
try page11.

The continental crust is the

lightest portion of the earth and the
most complex. On average, it is about
21 miles thick but varies throughout
the continents. It holds a variety of
different types of rocks to include
igneous, sedimentary (break it down),
and metamorphic.
Overall, the
continental crust is granitic.

Composition

Rim Drive East

South

Granite is compositionally
equivalent to rhyolite and usually
contains quartz, mica, and feldspars.
All of these minerals are fairly light
in weight in comparison to the darker
heavier compositional elements of
basalt. If you want to know more
about any of these abundant
minerals, go online or to your local
bookstore and pick up a rocks and
minerals fieldguide.
It would be
worth the $15 or $20.

Inner Core

Iron/Nickel (10%-20% Nickel)

Outer Core

Iron with sulphur and SiO2, nickel and potassium

Mantle

Peridotite

Mazama

Continental Crust

Basalt (upper), Gabbro (lower)

Campground

Oceanic Crust

Granite or GranoDiorite

5.
6.

2.

58

23

Plate Tectonics & The Ring of Fire

Here we are at the grand
master of it all. On the last page we
talked about the two different types of
crustscontinental and oceanic. We
also said that the continental crust is
lighter than the oceanic crust because
it is composed of less dense, silicate
matter versus heavier iron laden
matter.

very loosely because hundreds of

millions of tons dont actually float
like you would imagine. Estimations
regarding pressure at the bottom of
the crust are approximately 100 tons
per square inch. Wow!
The generally accepted theory
of plate tectonics suggests that
crustal plates (continents) move
around the earth pushing and pulling.
The energy required to move these
plates is enormous.
Scientists

Because the continental crust

is lighter, it tends to float above the
oceanic crust. I use the term float

Subduction Zone

24

of lava up to the top of the cone.

If lava does decide to escape from
a cinder cone, it will seep out from the
base. Hopefully that sheds some light
on the origins and properties of cinder
cones. Lets get back to the trail.

Some sections have fragments no

larger than 3 inches while others
have large sized boulders.
About one-half of a mile from
Red Cone Springs the trail splits off
to the left and the right. Continue
right if you want to visit the
headwaters to the Rogue River at
Boundary Springs. If you want to
continue and see Red Cone Springs
take a left. You have almost made it.

The best view of Red Cone is

seen from the first mile or so of the
trail. As mentioned on the previous
page, you will pass within about a
mile of Red Cone but, there is no trail
to its base. As you continue, take
note of the variable composition and
size of the rocks lying on the ground.

The spring is a popular spot

for hikers as it provides a supply of
water and a collection of grassy
meadows for camping. Remember to
obtain a back-country permit if you
desire to camp.

Red Cone Spring

Distance:
4.2mi./6.7km
Difficulty:
Easy
Trailhead:
North park entrance road, gravel parking lot on left side of the
road at 4259.749N 12208.164W, Pacific Crest Trail
57

Red Cone Springs

Most literature will rate this
trail as moderate. Because it is very
flat without appreciable elevation
gain, I rate it easy. However its
round-trip length of 8.4 miles may
prove challenging to those who need a
bit more physical conditioning.

called Red Cone. Red Cone is 20,000

to 30,000 years old and represents
another awesome dynamic of Mount
Mazama. Now is a good time to talk
about cinder cones.
Cinder cones form on the
flanks of volcanoes (or sometimes
w it hi n c a ld e r a s o f c o llap s e d
volcanoes - e.g. Wizard Island).
Oftentimes, they signify that the
main volcano is nearing the end of its
life cycle.

theorize that the constant cycling of

rock in the mantle provides energy
via a convection current for the plates
to move. Most fluids and semi-solids
such as molten rock expand when
heated. Two-hundred million years
ago, the continents were one mass
pulled apart by the process of plate
tectonics. Again, the expansion of the
heated mantle provided this energy to
move the plates. Currently on the
west coast of the Pacific Northwest,
the Juan de Fuca Plate (oceanic crust
under the Pacific Ocean) is pushing
its way under the North American
plate causing a huge amount of heat
and pressure. More specifically, this

area is called the Cascad ia

Subduction Zone. A subduction zone
is an oceanic trench where the seafloor thrusts itself under a continental
plate towards the mantle.
Close to the town of Selma,
Oregon lies a great example of an
ophiolite. An ophiolite is a chunk of
the seafloor that, instead of being
subducted, was thrusted above the
continental plate rather than below
it. If you have the time, I suggest you
take a look.
There is an area outlining the
Pacific Ocean that has an increased
occurrence of volcanic activity. Turn
the page to learn more.

Because cinder cones primarily

eject scoria or other frothy material,
they have a difficult time keeping
their shape. In fact, they rarely reach
higher that 400 meters tall. Take the
example of a sand pile. It is difficult,
if not impossible to pile sand in any
other shape besides a cone without
the assistance of a mold or mass
amounts of water.
Sinc e c inde r cone s a r e
essentially piles of scoria built up
around volcanic vents they will not
support the weight of lava. They are
not dense enough to carry the weight

The trail to Red Cone Springs

is geologically as well as aesthetically
significant because it passes within a
few miles from a basaltic cinder cone
56

25

The Ring of Fire? No, this has

nothing to do with a group of hobbits
or a magic ring. The Ring of Fire is a
term used to describe the perimeter of
the Pacific Plate which extends from
the west coast of the United States,

north through the Aleutian Islands,

west to Japan and through New
Zealand. This perimeter outlines the
ring of the Pacific Plate. Historically,
70% of all active volcanoes occur on
this belt.

Annie Creek Spring

Annie Creek Spring does not
have a hugely defined trail leading to
the source however it is significant in
this context. As you pass Mazama
Campground traveling north on the
south entrance road, park on the left
hand side before the bridge. When

you arrive at the spring notice the

pristine nature of the water. You are
now looking at the municipal water
source for Rim Village and Mazama
Village. Please, try to keep it clean.
You are drinking this stuff too.

Mountain Building
The process of orogeny, or
mountain building, is still not fully
understood; however, it is currently
known that plate tectonics is directly
responsible for the creation of
mountains. Here is the general idea:
The oceanic crust is subducted
(remember, the heavier crust is forced
under the lighter crust) along with

some of the sediments lying on the

bottom of the seafloor.
These
sediments, which are under extreme
heat and pressure from subduction,
melt and mixes with the partially
liquefied oceanic crust. The basaltic
crust of the ocean mixed with the
higher silica content of the
continental crust. The mix of basalt
26

55

the wealth of rocks lying on the

ground. If you decided to bring your
children on this easy walk, reveal to
them the magical floating properties
of pumice in the creek. In addition,

test your own knowledge of the rocks

in the area as it will enhance your
overall experience in Crater Lake
National Park.

and higher silica continental crust is

why the Cascade Mountain Range of
the western United States is
primarily andesitic.

page 24.
Notice the cylindrical
conduit, or volcanic neck, in which the
magma rises to the surface. Of course
this is the quick and dirty version of
mountain building. The back of the
book includes a variety of additional
geology resource material if you are
interested in studying any of these
topics in detail.

As the two crustal masses

collide, the heated, high pressure
magma makes its way to the surface
through fissures or other low density
rocks. Take a look at the graphic on

Mount Mazama
and the
Formation of Crater Lake

Annie Creek Canyon

Distance:
1.7mi./2.7km., loop trail
Difficulty:
Easy+
Trailhead:
South park entrance, Mazama Camprground, near campsite D21
in the rear of the ampitheater, (4251.959N 12209.469W).
54

Around two million years ago

(y/a) magma found a weak area in the
continental crust. This weak area of
rock, or basement fracture, allowed
magma from the Cascadia Subduction
Zone rose to a level of three to five
miles below the surface of the crust.
While there, the magma flowed
laterally to form the magma chamber
of the soon to be Mount Mazama.

be there, something has to give way.

The enormous pressure from gasses
and andesitic and dacitic magma
forced its way upward through cracks
and fissures in the overlying rock. As
the magma escaped, it solidified and
cooled to form layers of igneous rocks.
When the new magma thrusted its
way upward, the old rocks were
pushed up and out of the way forming
walls. The process continued until
the many different layers formed a
cone-shaped mountain called a strato-

Whenever more material is

placed inside of an area than used to
27

volcano. The image below, painted

by Paul Rockwood, represents the

probable appearance of Mount

Mazama prior to the formation of

Annie Creek Canyon

The Annie Creek Trail is a
beautiful example of how nature has
sculpted the landscape.
As you
descend the narrow and windy trail,
take notice of the layering affect
visible on the fumaroles caused by the
varying compositional eruptions.
Also, take the time to examine the
diversity of flora, fauna, and geology
on this trail. Before crossing your
first log bridge in the canyon, you will
probably have a few questions about
the odd-shaped walls.

Crater Lake.
As demonstrated by this
painting, Mount Mazama had a
number of smaller peaks around the
perimeter called cinder cones. These
volcanoes and other geologic
phenomenon acted as vents for the
great mass of gasses and magma that
escaped from the magma chamber
lying below the mountain. Some of
28

the more well known vents and lava

flows include Hillman Peak, The
Watchman, Union Peak, Cleetwood
Flow, and Williams Crater (a.k.a. Forgotten Crater) which is a cinder cone.
Well talk more about cinder cones,
parasitic cones, and vents of Mount
Mazama when we get into the trails.

The series of graphics on the

right demonstrates the 4 main
processes which shaped the walls of
Annie Creek leading to such
spectacular views. After the eruption
7,700 y/a, Annie Creek started feeding
water into the canyon again eroding
the loose pumice and ash.
The
pumice that had been heated and
cemented together by escaping gasses
is more resistant to erosion and was
therefore left behind creating the
canyon walls as we see them today.

Throughout the formation of

Mount Mazama, there were several

As the trail winds through

Annie Creek Canyon stop and enjoy

Streams created
a V-cut canyon.

Glaciation
occurred on the
flanks of Mount
Mazama
creating U-cut
valleys

The eruption of
Mount Mazama
filled in the
glacial valley
with pumice,
ash and other
pyroclastic
material.

Once again,
water cuts
through the
valley creating a
V-cut.

53

~40 million y/a

~2 million y/a
~420,000 y/a
~350,000 y/a
~200,000 y/a
~100,000 y/a
~75,000 y/a
~25,000-30,000 y/a
~22,000-12,000 y/a
~75,000-6,900 y/a
~7,700 y/a

Summary of Events Leading to the

Creation of Crater Lake
Beginning formation of the Cascade Mountain Range
Formation of Mount Mazama's magma chamber and
beginning of the mountain's formation
First major eruption
Increased period of mountain building
Southern Mazama, Dutton Cliff area formed
Dark Andesite built cinder cones on southern flank
Andesite flows built Hillman Peak and rocks above
Cloudcap Bay. Dacite & rhyodacite flows begin.
Primarily rhyodacite flows which erupted from NE flank
More andesite flows, creation of The Watchman
Creation of upper parts of Mount Mazama
Cataclysmic eruption forming Crater Lake

main periods of increased activity.

These and other events are outlined
in the chart above. Lets get moving
to the eruption of Mount Mazama
that created the majestic Crater
Lake.
Around

7,700

y/a,

Mazama erupted with 42 times more

explosive power than the eruption at
Mount Saint Helens in 1980. It must
have been one hell of a boom! The
eruption covered more than 500,000
square miles with ash and pumice,
called tephra, and approximately 13
cubic miles of magma! The eruption

Mount

mainly covered the North and NE

portions of North America with
pyroclastic material. The base of Mt.
Mazama is covered with ashfall 20
thick while 70 miles away it is one
foot thick. There were two main
stages of eruptions that occurred to
form Crater Lake.
These stages
include the (1) single vent phase and
(2) ring vent phase.

Godfrey Glen
Distance:
1mi./1.6km., loop trail
Difficulty:
Easy
South entrance road headed towards, approximately 0.5 mile
Trailhead:
from Mazama Camprground, pullout road on the right side of the
road.
52

During the single vent phase, a

29

hot column of tephra was ejected upward.

Oftentimes, these rushing
columns are called Plinian Columns.
Research by geologists suggests that
the tephra reached a height of 10-25
miles high and was then carried by
the winds.
Successive eruptions of lava
from the single vent phase depleted
the magma chamber of mighty
Mazama.
At this point in the
eruptions, the stratovolcano was a
hollow cone. The upper portion of the
cone began to sag from the
overlain rock causing fractures in the
outer ring of the volcano.
These
fractures allowed magma to escape
from the chamber in every direction.
The flows followed river valleys and
other low lying depressions in the
geography.
The top of the mountain began
to follow the path of gravity
downward. This change in direction
caused the second or ring vent phase
of eruption. Intense heat from the
magma chamber began melting
overlain rock, adding more fuel to the
fire. As the mountain collapsed, the
gasses inside the magma chamber
were compressed and released,
pulverizing everything in the escape
path. During this phase of eruptivity,
30

debris, it began to pump out further

large volumes of andesitic scoria. The
andesite scoria added a darker layer
atop the lighter colored dacite
material.

Crater Lake National Park.

As you round the trail, please
take extra care to avoid straying off
the trail. The ground near the edge of
the cliffs is composed of loosely
packed, fine-grained ash.
It is
extremely slippery and you will loose
your footing. Trust me, the picture
that you obtain from venturing off
this trail will not be worth the hassle.
Dont do it.

Similar to The Pinnacles,

fumaroles began to form within the
deep layers of ash and pumice,
welding the surrounding material
into tube-like structures
underground. As the seasons took
their toll, water and wind began to
carve out a V-cut canyon leaving
behind a record of the past. Since
welded scoria, that composes the
fumaroles is harder than the
surrounding loosely packed material,
they remain intact.

By the way, do you see that

georgeous green meadow down in the
valley? If you have not been eaten by
the killer mosquitoes or fallen down
into the valley, were going to hike
there next. Keep going, were off to
Annie Creek Canyon Trail. . .

If you brought your GPS with

you, go to coordinates 4251.920N
12208.783W during the course of
your walk. This lookout into the
canyon provides an excellent view of
the fumaroles and a glimpse at some
columnar jointing. This is not a scary
word really (break it down). This
type of jointing represents rapid
cooling of magma and is fairly
common in the northwest. The wild
and scenic section of the Columbia
Gorge provides excellent views of
columnar jointing if you want more.
But, there is not a great deal of it in
51

Godfrey Glen
The mild 1-mile loop trail at
Godfrey Glen represents another
examp le of Mount Maz amas
awesome power during its last
eruption. If you remember on page
29, the prevailing winds during the
time of the eruption were headed

north and northeast, carrying scores

of ash and pumice to the affected
areas. The Lower Munson Valley at
Godfrey Glen was blanketed with
approximately 250 feet of ash and
dacitic pumice. When the mountain
had expelled its sources of dacitic

rocks that were once solid became

obliterated and eruptions of pumice
and other types of frothy glass were
expelled; approximately 3.5 cubic
miles of pumice are thought to be
created during the second phase of
eruption.

lava from the first phase was high

silica rhyodacite.
However, the
second or ring vent phase of eruption
began as rhyodacite but concluded as
basalt-andesite. Volcanoes throughout the Cascade Mountain chain and
the rest of the world are typically
erupt the same type of lavas, versus a
variety, which makes the eruption of
Mount Mazama an interesting and
wonderful phenomenon.
.

Based on research by Charles

R. Bacon and others, it is suggested
that Mount Mazama had a stratified
or divided magma chamber. All of the

I hope that you got all of that.

That was a great deal of information
to take in. There will be plenty of
time for review later. For now, lets
50

start talking about some things you

need to know before going hiking in
Crater Lake National Park.
31

Chapter 3
Things to Know Before you
Go Hiking in Crater Lake
National Park

Castle Crest Wildflower Trail

Distance:
0.4mi./0.25km., loop trail
Difficulty:
Easy
Trailhead:
Less than one-quarter mile east on East Rim Drive, large pull-out
parking area with the trail visible from the road, Clearly marked
signage. Alternative spur trail beginning at Park Headquarters.
32

49

Castle Crest Wildflower Trail

The Castle Crest Wildflower
Trail is another wonderful example of
how nature has adapted to the
intense and sometimes harsh
conditions of volcanic landscapes.
Prior to the caldera forming eruption
approximately 7,700 y/a, Mount
Mazama spat out tons of pumice and
other frothy materials onto the
surrounding land. As this loosely
assembled material broke down and
decayed, it became a nutrient rich bed
for multiple species of wildflowers
which became a food source for a
variety of fauna.

Munson Creek. Interestingly enough,

the water from this creek does not
come from Crater Lake. The lake is
approximately 200 feet below the
level of the flow from Munson Creek
which makes the headwaters for
Munson Creek a natural occurrence
free from the influence of Crater
Lake.

Where the Heck is Crater Lake

National Park
If you do not know where or
how to arrive at Crater Lake National
Pa r k , t h is s ho u ld he lp y o u
immensely. There are several ways
to arrive at the park. Be aware that
the northern entrance will likely be

closed during the winter months.

When in doubt, give the park a call or
check their website at http:/
/www.nps.gov/crla/ or call 541-5942211.

The spur trail spanning

from Park Headquarters to the
trailhead at Castle Crest Wildflower
Trail is fairly short and rather
enjoyable. If you have the time, walk
to Park Headquarters and check out
what it has to offer. And remember to
bring the bug juice, they are rampant!

As you walk around the short

loop trail, notice how the rocks play
an intricate part in supporting plant
life. The concluding section of the
loop trail demonstrates how the rocks
and varying layers of the soil provide
a natural water filtration plant
completely free of charge.
When you continue on the trail
you may notice a creek that passes
right through the middle of your
walk. If you take a look on your map,
you have already figured out that it is
48

33

Phantom Ship

Fees & Other Costs

The fee schedule is fairly
reasonable considering you are
visiting one of the most amazing
spectacles in the United States. If
you are not hiking through the Pacific
Crest Trail (PCT) and decide to drive
around the park, it will cost you $10.
For those cyclists who are a little
more daring, it will cost you $5. The
entrance station personnel provide a
park map and information during
summer hours.

and other lookout spots around the

park. If you are a PCT hiker and
camping in the park, you will need a
free backcountry camping permit.
You can obtain a permit at both park
visitor centers. The purpose of these
permits is to attain a tally of hikers
spending the night in the wilderness.
Its for your safety as well.
The boat ride around the lake
costs $23.50 for adults and $13 for
children and leaves every hour on the
hour from 10a.m. to 4p.m.

Parking is free at Rim Village

State of Oregon, Crater

Lake quarter.

Sun Notch
Distance:
Difficulty:
Trailhead:

34

0.25mi./0.4km.
Easy
East Rim Drive, between Dutton and Kerr Ridge,
(4254.002N 12205.730W), large pullout with clearly marked
trailhead sign.
47

forming a chamber, it filled a vertical

crevasse and cooled, a sort of sliver
through the side of the mountain. Its
size is somewhat deceiving but
Phantom Ship is over 10 stories tall
and about 300 feet in length.
However even the ship is subject to
the relentless abuses of nature.

debris into the water creating a fresh

cut for geologists to examine.
Phantom Ship was cursed with
this bizarre name because of its
ever-changing appearance and
reflectivity of light from its spires. At
times it will seem to be a mirror,
other times it will be as dark as the
night sky. Also, the fact that it looks
very similar to a ship does help to
rationalize its name.

In 1934, between two and four

p.m., a large spire from Phantom Ship
fell into the water. It carried tons of

Looking right from the view of Phantom ShipDutton Cliff

Camping in the Park

Mazama Campground is
situated near Highway 62 directly on
your right as you enter the south
entrance to the park. It offers a
variety of campsites with sizable bear
proof lockers, fire pits and enough
mosquitoes to drive the most patient
person quite mad.
The sites are
moderately sized and offers adequate
privacy from your neighbors.

September. If you want something

more secluded I have just the spot.
Lost Creek Campground is
three miles east of Rim Drive on
Pinnacles Drive through Kerr Valley.
It has 16 tent sites, cold water
faucets and toilet facilities.
The
campsite is generally open from
mid-July to September.
This tent-only site offers
camping with easy access to The
Pinnacles. The cost is considerably
cheaper at $10 per night and offers
the company of mutant mosquitoes
(bring your bug repellant). This site
also provides large bear-proof boxes
on site with fire pits, water, and trash
receptacles.

Rates for camping at one of

Mazama Campgrounds 198 mixed
tent and RV spots vary per year
however at the time of this writing it
is $18 per night. Call ahead for rates
if price is an issue. The campground
does have one gas pump and a decent
store with snacks, beer, and most
i m port a nt ly c he m i ca l ly base d
mosquito repellant.

The telephone number for

Crater Lake National Park is
541-594-2211.
Again, visit their
website at http://www.nps.gov/crla/
for updated information.

There are two buildings for

showers that provide 4-minutes of
cleansing for $0.75.
Check the
schedule for ranger led talks on the
outside of the bathrooms. There is a
great amphitheater which is the
beginning to one of our hikes. Know
it well. The campground is generally
open from mid-June to around
46

35

Items to Bring With You

Kerr Notch

Sun Notch

A quick reminder about hiking in the park. Remember that you are
probably walking at a higher elevation than at home. The higher you go, the
less oxygen there is to breathe. Know your limits, take your time and enjoy the
scenery. Here is a list of things that will enhance your hiking as well as your
understanding of fundamental geological knowledge.
10x hand lens or magnifying glass for looking at
crystals in the rocks
Rocks and Minerals handbook
Small backpack or Camelback for carrying water, food
or spare clothing
GPS (not required but helpful)
Compass (if you forget to bring batteries for your GPS)
Pencil and paper if you choose to draw or write down
your observations
If you must, bring your cellular telephone . . .
Rain gear is a good idea
Camera and film or extra batteries for your digital
Bug juice
Park map (provided at the park entrance stations)
Binoculars

36

the trees and into the meadow, you

may be wondering, What is that
beautiful layered peak to the left of
me? It is called Applegate Peak. If
you have binoculars take a closer look
at the varying multi-color layers of
igneous material.
Each layer
represents a different flow of magma
that contained its own distinct
mineral content.
It truly is
magnificent.

Watchman. Otherwise, look in the

lake and off to the right close to the
waters edge. The mass of rock is
called Phantom Ship. This is the
closest view of Phantom Ship that you
are going to obtain so start snapping
those quality pictures. Now is the
time that you smack yourself for not
bringing the camera.
Phantom Ship is the
remnants of a dike thought to be
around 400,000 years old. Whats a
dike? Think back to the chapter
when we were talking about the
formation of Mount Mazama.
As
magma rises from the fiery depths of
the earth, it fills and creates voids in
the crust. Instead of the magma

Once you arrive at the part of

the trail that parallels the rim of
Crater Lake you will notice several
prominent features. The beautiful
island to your left is called Wizard
Island. It has a story of its own which
we will discuss when hiking The
45

Sun notch
This short jaunt through a
grassy meadow should prove utterly
delightful during any time of the year.
As you begin your hike, just try to
imagine that several million years
ago there used to be a glacier right
where you are standing.

mountain tops or other topographical

features they carve out massive
U-shaped glacial valleys, versus a
V-shaped valley carved by water.
More on that later. Two of these
large glacial valleys exist on the rim
of Crater Lake: (1) Kerr Notch and (2)
Sun Notch. The photograph on the
opposite page demonstrates this
U-shaped phenomenon.

How do geologist know? There

are several indications that geologists
use to map the existence and path of
glaciers. When glaciers retreat down

As you make your way through

Things you Are Not Supposed To Do

Because Crater Lake National Park represents nature at its best, we as hikers
and outdoor aficionados wish to preserve natures legacy. Although people hate
to be told what to do, I submit this list as a guideline for your karma. Adjust it
accordingly. Here are my suggestions:
Stay on the trailsit would be nice to leave nature to do
its thing without your size 9
Leave rocks and native plants where they belongin
nature
Keep our water clean. Place your junk somewhere else.
Pack it out!
Pets should stay at home
Bicycles should stay on the pavement or in designated
areas
If you must smoke, do it in your car. I dont want to
smell you either!
The animals in the park have done just fine without
your food inputs. Lets leave it that way.

44

37

Chapter 4
Trails

The Pinnacles
Distance:
0.25mi./0.4km.
Difficulty:
Easy
Trailhead:
East Rim Drive, dead end at The Pinnacles Road
through Kerr Valley, the trail begins at the turn-around.
38

43

The Pinnacles
During Mount Mazamas most
recent eruption around 7,700 y/a, redhot avalanches of ash, pumice and
gasses came rumbling down the
mountain.
The first of these
avalanches corresponded with the
single vent phase of the eruption,
spewing out rhyodacite and other high
silica materials.
The following
avalanches from the ring-vent phase
consisted of grey andesitic scoria.
Temperatures of these avalanches
were around 750 Fahrenheit when
they landed in the canyon.

Welcome to the Trails section

of the book.
The trails are first
organized by their difficulty and then
their distances. There are a few trails
which require travel on the PCT
before arrival at the trailhead. Those

Trail Name
Sinnott Memorial Overlook

Difficulty Loop Trail

Easy

The Pinnacles

~0.25mi/0.4km

Easy

Sun Notch

0.25mi./0.4km.

Easy

0.4mi./0.6km

Easy

0.4mi./0.6km

Easy

1mi./1.6km

Easy

X
X

Wildflower spur
Godfrey Glen

these tube-like structures from the

bottom to the top is caused by the
change of output by Mount Mazama
from ryholitic magma and
particulates to andesitic.

Length (1-way unless

loop)
~75 feet

Castle Crest Wildflower Trail

Throughout the many years it

took for the avalanches to cool, gasses
within the avalanches sought a way
out of the overlying material. These
hot gasses escaped upwards forming
tube-like caverns or gas vents called
fumaroles. As the gasses rose, they
welded the scoria and other
pyroclastic material together forming
the tube-like structures in the
pictures on this page and the
following page.

distances are included within the

dialogue of the trail description and
include a map at the end of each
section separated by
difficulty.
Enjoy!

Annie Creek Canyon

1.7mi./2.7km

Easy+

Red Cone Springs

4.2mi./6.7km

Easy

The Watchman

0.8mi./1.1km

Moderate

Garfield Peak

1.7mi./2.7km

Moderate

Mount Scott

2.5mi./4km.

Moderate+

Union Peak

2.9mi./4.6km

Moderate+

Cleetwood Cove

1.1mi/1.8km

Strenuous

The + symbol indicates that parts of the trail have increased difficulty.
However, they do not warrant a higher difficulty rating.

The obvious change of color of

42

39

Sinnott Memorial Overlook

Welcome to the first trail in
the book. Dont get excited quite yet.
This path is located in the epicenter
of activity at Crater Lake National
ParkRim Village. The short stroll
down the stairs leads to a small
building with a variety of interpretive
information.

aided video that depicts the creation

and destruction of Mount Mazama as
well as a wealth of history and geologic information related to the park.
Whatever your learning style, the
memorial will be able to help you
understand the many facets of Crater
Lake National Park. I would highly
recommend visiting this spot before
your trek begins.

Sinnott Memorial offers

ranger-led talks, a short computer

As you walk down the steps to

Sinnott Memorial Overlook, take a
look at the large rocks that make up
the barrier wall. Some of them have
a reddish orange tinge.
The
discoloration is caused by ferric iron
oxide or specularite. This material
indicates that some form of gas or
mineral is present and leaches out

from the area in and around Crater

Lake which is oxidizing some of the
surrounding rock.
As you continue your trek,
take notice of other rocks with similar
surface discoloration. The ascent to
The Watchman has many examples of
this phenomenon.

Sinnott Memorial Overlook

Distance: ~75 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Trailhead: Rim Village, across the parking lot from the gift shop
40

41