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where, every 35 days, people from across Indonesia flock to conduct a ritual that
involves adulterous sex.
The shrine is that of legendary prince Pangeran Samodro, son of a Javanese king,
and his stepmother Nyai Ontrowulan. Legend has it that they ran away together and
lived at Gunung Kemukus. It is believed that if you do something even more
shameful there, like have adulterous sex, then you will be blessed with good
fortune. It must be done on the auspicious day of Jumat Pon, when the Friday on the
Gregorian calendar intersects with one of the five days of the ancient Javanese
calendar.
The ritual involves first prayers and offerings of flowers at the grave of Pangeran
Samodro and Nyai Ontrowulan. Pilgrims must then wash themselves at one of the
sacred springs on the hill and find a stranger and have sex with them. They need to
have sex seven times. That is every 35 days, so it is a relationship that lasts around
a year. So the couples have to make a significant commitment to each other. They
need to exchange mobile phone numbers and addresses and decide where to meet
again, so they can complete the ritual. Most people who do the ritual are small
business owners. They hope that if they carry out the ritual their business will
improve and they will make good money and be successful.
According to Floribertus Rahardi, an Indonesian writer who has studied the ritual,
People believe that they [Pangeran Samodro and Nyai Ontrowulan] committed
incest in that place, but before they had finished having sex they were chased by
the soldiers of Demak, killed, and buried together in the one hole. From there, the
word emerged that whoever can finish off their sex act will receive blessings from
Nyai Ontrowulan.
There are 2 (two) paradigm developed in the midst of the community about the
Tomb of Prince Samudro or GunungKemukus. First, the belief in some communities
that if they want ngalap blessing or a petition was granted, then the people who
come to the Tomb of Prince Samudro must perform ritual sex with the opposite sex
who are not husband or wife for 7 (seven) times in one eight (1 eight = 35 days).
This negative paradigm needs to be clarified so that the pilgrims do not get stuck in
a paradigm and a false belief. Each pilgrim or visitor who wants his wish granted the
petition or pleading to be Almighty God, to pray and seek the right path. In short,
the negative paradigm that developed in society is not true.
Second, a pilgrimage to the Tomb of Prince Samudro or Gunung Kemukus is a ritual
activity that contains a given value of virtue and nobility of soul of service figures
diziarahi. With a pilgrimage in the place, man is expected to always remember
death so that in everyday life they will get closer to God Almighty and always do
good in accordance with the nobility of spirit and example of figure .
Samudro yang merupakan putra dari seorang Raja Majapahit terakhir dan lahir dari
ibu selir yang bernama R. Ay. Ontrowulan.
Ketika Kerajaan Majapahit runtuh. Pangeran Samudro yang telah berusia 18 tahun
tidak ikut melarikan diri seperti saudara-saudaranya yang lain. Bahkan beliau
bersma ibunya ikut diboyong ke daerah Demak Bintoro oleh Sultan Demak.
Selama berada di Demak, Pangeran Samudro mendapat bimbingan ilmu agama dari
Kanjeng Sunan Kalijaga. Ketika dirasa cukup dan usianya beranjak dewasa, maka
atas petunjuk perintah dari Sultan Demak melalui kanjeng Sunan Kalijaga, Pangeran
Samudro diperintahkan untuk berguru tentang agama Islam kepada Kyai Ageng
Gugur dari Desa Pandan Gugur, yang letaknya di daerah lereng Gunung Lawu.
Perintah yang di tugaskan kepada Pangeran Samudro ini sekaligus mengemban misi
suci untuk menyatukan saudara-saudaranya yang telah terpisah lama.
Setelah mendapatkan petunjuk perintah dan nasehat dari Sultan Demak, maka
pangeran Samudro pun mentaati nasehat tersebut dan pergi berguru kepada Kyai
Ageng Gugur dengan didampingi dua orang abdinya yang setia.
Hari demi hari Pangeran Samudro melalui proses belajar dengan gurunya yang
bernama Kyai Ageng Gugur, dan Sang Pengeran pun diberi ilmu tentang intisari
ajaran Islam secara mendalam. Selama itulah Pangeran tidak mengetahui bahwa
yang Kyai Ageng Gugur sebenarnya adalah kakak kandungnya sendiri. Setelah
Pangeran Samudro mengusai ilmu yang dijarkan oleh Kyai Ageng Gugur, barulah
sang guru menceritakan siapa sebenarnya dirinya.
Mendengar keterangan dari gurunya Sang Pangeran terlihat terkujut dan bahagia.
Beliau teringat akan amanat Sultan Demak untuk menyatukan saudaranya. Dan
pada akhirnya setelah amanat dari Sultan di bicarakan kepada kakanya, maka Kyai
Ageng Gugur bisa menerima dan bersedia dipersatukan kembali dan ikut
membangun bersama Kerajaan Demak.
Di dukuh tersebut mereka bertemu dengan orang yang berasal dari Demak
(Wulucumbu Demak) yang bernama Kyai Kmaliman. Di dukuh ini Pangeran Samudro
berniat bermukim sementara untuk menyebarkan agama Islam.
Setelah dirasa cukup, mereka kembali melanjutkan perjalanan ke arah barat dan
sampai di suatu tempat di padang "oro-oro" Kabar. Sampai sekarang tempat
tersebut dikenal dengan nama Dusun Kabar, Desa Bogorame (Gemolong). Di
tempat inilah pangeran Samudro terserang penyakit panas. Walaupun demikian,
perjalanan tetap dilanjtkan sampai ke Dukuh Doyong (wilayah Kecamatan Miri).
karena sakit yang diderita semakin parah, Pangeran memutuskan untuk beristirahat
di dukuh tersebut.
tempat itu akan menjadi ramai sehingga dijadikan tauladan orang-orang yang
berada diekitar sana.
Keterangan dari salah seorang tokoh masyarakat yang tidak mau disebutkan
namanya kepada saya, bahwa pandangan atau penilaian orang yang menjadikan
tempat ini sebagai obyek wisata sex dalam melakoni ritual kekayaan adalah tidak
benar. Dan muculnya pembenaran dari tindakan ini berawal dari penafsiran orang
yang salah akan pengertian bahasa dalam kata "dhemenan" di mana dalam bahasa
Jawa kata "dhemenan" diartikan kekasih lain yang bukan isteri atau suami yang sah
(pasangan kumpul kebo), kekasih gelap, isteri atau simpanan. (Pria atau wanita
Idaman lain).
The tradition of travelling to sacred places such as graves to beseech blessing from
the spirit of the dead remains alive in many parts of Indonesia. Pilgrimage to Mt.
Kemukus in Sragen, Central Java is one example. But what pilgrims do in Kemukus is
perhaps more unusual, and even sexual, in nature. So why do be people get so
worked up at Mt. Kemukus?
Located about 29 kilometers from Solo, Mt. Kemukus has for many years seen huge
numbers of visitors from different parts of the archipelago. It is in the mountains
where the grave complex of Prince Samudra and his step mother Ontrowulan lies.
The grave complex is on the top of a small hill.
The pilgrims reportedly believe in a living mythology that in order that their wish or
ideal be fulfilled, they are required to share love and have a sexual intercourse with
a previously-unknown partner he or she meets there. The myth reportedly comes
from the folklore about Prince (Joko) Samudra from the Demak Kingdom. There are
different versions of the autobiography, but the one that has developed in the
community is that Prince Samudra and his stepmother, Ontrowulan, were involved
in love affairs. When the Prince was seriously ill, Ontrowulan faithfully and
affectionately cared for him until he drew his last breath.
The scene in the grave complex begins with a janitor legalizing the instantly built
love relationship of the partners by marrying them under the hand at the
Ontrowulan well. The new pairs will present offerings in the form of flowers,
bananas, and cigarettes before conveying the wish and ideal to the janitor. From
there, the newly and instantly established partners will do whatever they wish: They
will usually slip away to the bush around the grave complex in the starry night, and
unleash their passions.
'I think there's a growing contradiction with Sex Mountain, there's the prostitution,
so how it is possible this is all being condoned by the government and religious
leaders,' he said.
'The one thing is the problem of sexually transmitted diseases, there's health clinics
set up at mountain.'
'I talked to a doctor and he said most sex workers have sexual diseases and men
dont use condoms, so HIV is on the up.'
The Dateline video journalist was lucky enough to follow some pilgrims to the
mountain and talked to them about their experiences.
'It took a lot of convincing, as it is adulterous, I followed them, some came by boat
or motorbike, from right across Indonesia and I had access to friends and people
before they got there.'