Making a Wireless Charger

I recently made a boost converter (for those unfamiliar with them, they effectively boost the
voltage up to a useable amount) to make a USB Ipod charger using 2 AA batteries.

Now that that was done and over, tested tried and true, I decided I wanted to make something
a little more snazzy!
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDSYJowwFWM
Uses all 12 volts of 6 (2 in parallel for each cell) lithium batteries!
Draws under 3 amps all the time!
I've searched around on this website, and noticed that almost all of the instructables on here
with wireless power seem to lack a proper explanation about how to build one; Or, when they
did build one, they used an inefficient method of doing so...
This transmitter works fantastic, and can run on pretty much any voltage above 12 volts, and
below 24! It's also extremely efficient (little power lost) and, it generates almost no
interference. (one wireless power instructable used a square wave in the primary; Square
waves have a lot of harmonics, and can cause havoc on computer systems, radios, and other
sensitive electronics)
I've come to solve all of these problems!
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Step 1: So you want to make it, right?

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Step 2: The Schematic

To build it, just follow the schematic as shown. (If you need help, please, do not hesitate to
message me!
If you're having trouble identifying the MOSFET's pins, look up the part number of the
MOSFET you're using, and follow what it says on there.
For those following it to the book, the IRFP250's pin out goes like this, from left to
right; Gate, Drain, and then Source.
Make sure when you're making this, the diodes are put in the correct way. Don't mix up your
zeners with your regular ones!
If you mess this up, your MOSFETs will almost certainly go boom!
You could use a SMPS laptop cord to power it, which puts out around 18 volts. (if you do
decide to go this route, make sure your power supply can handle a good amount of current
draw. Mine is rated at 3.5 amps, and occasionally the OC (overcurrent) detection will trip!)

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I will add a word of warning; If you plan on just using a 7805, you must NOT exceed 15
volts input, on the transmitter. Due to resonant rise, the capacitor will charge over what the
7805 is capable of handling. Be careful please!
If you want to put more juice in your transmitter, you must use a buck converter, otherwise
things will be very unhappy on your receiving end.
For the diodes, the black band on it, or the white band on the UF4007's indicates the cathode.
The other end is the anode. (for simpler terms, the cathode is the pointy end of the diode
symbol, where the line goes across it. The anode is the flat base of the triangle)
Mind you, this is just for the transmitter!
Changing the inductor value will change the amount of current draw. A smaller value
inductor will equal more current, a larger value one, less current. I've gotten it all the way
down to 1.5 amps max draw, but the inductor overheated! (the wire gauge was too small)
Changing the coil turns will ALSO additionally change the current draw, as well as the
frequency. More turns, lower frequency, lower current. (I believe, this is a result of the
resistance of the wire, and the frequency change)
Also note; the higher the input voltage, the more distance, you should get out of your
transmitter. As an additional bonus, you will also receive more voltage at the receiving end as
well! Remember, though, at this comes a cost; the mosfets will get warmer, and your current
draw will increase!
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Step 3: Making the coils

Mathematics of the coil:

D = 6.7in for the 7ft wire

D = 8.594in for the 9ft wire
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Summary equation:
D = 2 x [[ (Length of wire) / (# of turns) ] x [1/(2) ] ]
Derivation of Diameter D equation above:
If you know the total length of the wire L= whatever length you want
length of wire in ft * 12 = length of wire in inches I will call L
L
c=
number of turns
plug c into:
c
r=
2
plug r into:
D= 2r

Conceptual explanation:

Notice that the length of the wire should be from 7 to 9 feet.

This image: F6RQHPSGUQ4JRDQ.MEDIUM.jpg

Reveals that coil is wound three times completely and a fourth time including the open
ends.
For sake of convenience let's turn feet to inches: 7ft *(12in for every 1 ft) =84in
or if you want 9ft instead: 9ft *(12in for every 1 ft) = 108in

Since the coil is wound three times completely and a fourth time with open ends we can
approximate that the coil is wound 4 times completely.
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Now you want to take the length of the wire and divide it by the number of turns it will
give you the circumference of the single circle about which all 4 turns are wound.
For 7ft having been converted to 84in we take 84in/4 turns= 21in
circumference (which I will call c) of the circle with the 7ft long wire is = 21in
c = 21in
and if you choose to go with the 9ft long wire instead:
9ft converted to 84in take 108in/4 turns= 27in
c = 27in
Now that we have the circumference, we can acquire the diameter.
You may recall from one of your classes that the circumference of the circle is "2r" if you
didn't- now you do. Also recall that I have said above that the letter c is set equal to the
circumference ( c = 21in or c = 27in ), knowing this we can use the identity of circumference
to find the radius:
Let's start with using c = 21in.
We know thatc = 21in but also c = 2r. Now pretty much anyone can see that 1 = 1 or 2 = 2.
Likewise c = c thus:
21in = 2r
I am hoping you know that the diameter is twice the radius because that's where I got this
relation:
D = 2r where D is the diameter of a circle and r is the radius.
Divide 21 by 2 to acquire r.
For the 7ft (or 84in long) wire the radius of the coil is:
r = 21in = 3.34225380493in rounding r 3.342
2
Now multiply by two to derive the diameter:
D = 2r => D = 2(3.342) => D = 6.684 6.7in for the 7ft wire.

Therefore the diameter is given by:

For the 9ft (or 108in long) wire the radius of the coil is:

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r = 27in = 4.29718346348in rounding r 4.297

2
Therefore the diameter is given by:
D =2r => D = 2(4.297) => D = 8.594 8.594in for the 9ft wire
Step 4: Making the receiver
The receiving end is less complex. Make sure you use the same capacitor value, as well as
following the USB pinout as I have written in the schematic.
You can try and experiment with different turns ratio's of the coils and see what kind of
performances you get! This has to do with resonance, and step-up / step-down ratios.

Try adding more voltage, and see if you get more distance; another way of possibly
increasing distance is to increase the resonant frequency a bit. Increasing the frequency
should give you more distance, with additional current draw.

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To increase the frequency, just lower the capacitor values. Personally, the lowest I'd go would
be around 1 uF. Make sure when you lower the cap value, you do it for both the receiving,
and the transmitting ends!
Also, remember, the idea does not have to apply only to USB. I've noticed that due to
resonant rise, the filter capacitor charges to the peak of the output sine wave....
At 12 volts into the transmitter, I was getting around 24 volts at the receiver end! (this isn't
the effective voltage however; once you put a load on it, it drops a bit) At 15 volts in, I was
getting 35 volts on the receiver! (wow, that's quite a bit of a jump, huh?)
This means that you should be able to power other things as well. Use whatever your mind
comes to!
Step 5: Thoughts, and Explanation
The ZVS driver is used for a lot of things due to it's simplicity. Your laptop might be using
the same oscillator format to run its backlights!
However, in this case, the reason it works is because the ZVS driver begins by oscillating at
around 50 - 60 khz. We can't hear it since it's above our hearing range.
Resonance can be thought of like a Pendulum. If you hit a pendulum, it will move forward,
and then back. If you hit the pendulum again, right as it starts to swing downwards, the
pendulum will travel faster and higher than before. It's very much the same in electronics, just
instead of speed and height, it's voltage and current! You can observe it pretty easily with a
cup of water. If you shake it just the right way back and forth the water will spill right out of
the cup, due to resonance.
Due to this magic called resonance, the voltage swings in the tank (between the 3 + 3 coil and
the 2 uF capacitor) are much higher than what the input voltage is. Resonance helps with
transmission distance, and also, as a result of how the MOSFETS turn on, they're in what's
called Zero Voltage Switching, where they turn on and off when the voltage across them is
zero. (meaning, they generate little/no heat due to switching losses). However, due to on-state
resistance, they still make a little bit of heat.
ANYWAY, going away from the complicated bits of it, the reason it can transmit power is
caused by magnetism. As the coil oscillates, it sends an alternating magnetic field through the
air, which is picked up by the receiving coil (and again, due to resonance, the voltage rises
upwards!) and thus, power is transmitted through air! The same basic concept is behind radio
waves; though, amplifiers are needed to get the audio out of the air, and the frequency is
much higher!
I made all of the pictures shown in, though, the transmitter picture is a modified version of
the famous Mazzilli flyback driver. (a great, versatile circuit... Used for so much, thanks
Vladmiro Mazzilli for this!)
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And, one more thing; In another instructable, once I get some protoboard, I'll explain how to
make a buck converter. It's relatively easy, and requires just a few parts.
And as a safety note; I'm not responsible for any "oopsies" you make if you decide to
construct this circuit. You NEED to make sure everything is connected properly!
If I do somehow end up winning the Epilog contest, I would use the laser etcher to first and
foremost, make PCB's. I don't like the traditional way of etching (with chemicals and nasty
fumes) and plus, I could additionally sell the PCB's to other electronics enthusiasts for
smaller amounts of money, than most etching companies make you pay. I'll try my best to
bring this hobby back into the spotlight!
Thanks for reading :)

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