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Ahky Marina and Ataky Marina Yacht Club

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Ukraln i Roman ia and Bulgaria

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CONTENTS

Foreword
About Th is Book
Visa Regulations
TheAuthors
The Publishers
Ataky Marina Yachl Club

... ,

''' '" -

..

.,

... ,.

"" ., "" ,

"

...

",.,_
-.... "
, .............. ..
,. "

.......... .
_.. ........
..... -.......... -..
.... ,... ,.. ...... ,

THE BLACK SEA .

-.

Weather and Currenls ..

9
10

,...... _................ , 12

Preparing for Cruislng in the Black Sea

....

Hin ts from local Yachlsmen and o lhers

... " ... 14


,.... .... 16

Charts
TURKEY .
Publ1shed by Ataky
Sahi l Yolu ,
34710 AUky,
Isanbul , TURKEY.
December 2001

4
5
6
7

,..

... .......

,. , .... 17

"

Mrln,
Secion

Section 2
Seclion 3
Seclion 4

to Amura .
Amura lo Bafra Burnu .. " ... , .
Bafra Burnu o am Burnu _" ..
am Burnu o Georgln Border ...

GEORGIA ........... .
All rlghlll reserve<! . Ho parts of t his publication may be reproduced , lransmitted
or use<t In any lorm by any means, graphic, elecuonic or mechanical Includlng
phoocopying, rKOI"ding , taping or information storage and retrieval systems or
olherwise without the prior permi$Sion of the Publishers, Ataky Marina,

every care has been tken o ensure accuracy, neitlMr the Publiahers nor
the Authors wlU hold Ihemllelves responsible fOl" err~ emiasions or alteralions.
They also cnno! accept rHponsibility 101" any accidenls, injury or damage ol" loss
Gecasloned by Ihe use ol the inlormation, pholos or skech plan in Ihls book.

.,

52

112
153

'"

...........

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

167
179

UKRAINE .... ,....

.. _184

Secllon 1 Feodosia to Chomomors'ke


Section 2 Chomomors'ke o Izman

CAUTlON
Whre

..

. 24

Bosphoru

.. 218
....... 265

ROMAHIA

28'

BULGARIA
TURKEY
Section 5 Bulgarian border

Any correcllon should be notlfied o Ataky Marina.


F..... +90 212 560 7270
E'mall. Marina@atkoymarina .com.tr

Appendill.

Pri nted in Turt<ey

Indell. . ..

o BophorU$

331
339

....

....... "

341

Graphlc by Dacan Grafik Ltd. Istanbul +902125194549


Printed by Me-Pa Medya Pu. A. +90 212 270 63 64

ABOUTTHIS BOOK
Ths book is a CNlSlng GulO for yachtsmen

and no aemp has been made Lo ndude


any ol the hstory ol the Black Sea Counres
or thelr pOhtcs, Ths nloonatlOl'l is available
from the many travet books wnen aboul
thisarea

VISA REGULATlONS APPlYlNG TO PERSONS ARRIVING BY SU


For each port \here is a short resume end a
chartlel Completng the nlormation ebout
the parts and andorages s a tabla with the
necessary datals and a short pece aboul
the town or vIIage gVlng detail$ Ol thngs to
see !here or n !he surroundng ar9a. and e
suee plan where releven.

TURKEY

All foreigners must heve en in stamp n \he'r passpart from Port of


Entry and exl stamp on depart.re
Visas e varylng cost are requred by ctizens ol mos COuntnes
and can be obtaned et port ol Entry. Usually valid for 3 nonths.
In addlon the yachl mus have a valid Transt log obtaned at Port
ofEntry. valid for 1 year.

GEORGlA

All VISltors requlfe a

The cruse around the Black sea is prepared


in an enli dockwse dr&ton,

The man reason lor ths was because ollhe


earfystartn

theseason. md April, therewas


POSSlbiily ol strong wnds and on the Turlo'.sh
coast harbours are ciosef togoether lor
sheer if needed,

The book is \herefore Wfltten ., ths direction


commencng

Wlth the

Turksh coas eas

of
the Bosptorus. Georga. Russia, Ukraine
Romana. Bulgal1a and lhe las section
beng the westem Turlo'.lsh coas back to tha
BospOOrus.
In Sumrner2000 Okura crulsed the ooasof
Ukrane from Feodosia to Izmal and from
the notes mede the book Cru,se Ukrare
was compiled ard pubhShed by Atakoy
Marira, Istanbul Tha information coIIlcte<!
is indded In th,sbook
The coast from Manupol Ihrough the Sea ol
Az.ov Lo Ker<:h and Feodosa was exduded
as t has 1,lIle to offer the crusng yachlsman
except to those entenrg the Black Sea from
the WMe Ses by the Volga and Don rivers
The ooe coontry not vsted was Abkhaia
thal was conSIdered too poItically unstable
and aangerous Lo vs.
I seems o be
possble to VISlt !here from the Russian
Fedefator, bul deflntely not from GeorgLS
The BOOI< Is (jyded InIO Countnes and
Turlo'.ey and Uk1all'l8 nto SeCLIOI'IS Each
section starts .... th a sketd showng the
Iocation ol each port or anctorage

plans were not available the


chanles have beerl drawn on Okura .... ,th
the infoonabOl as seen ,n SumtnefS 2000
and 2001. As a result ol !he amoun ol
lillarmalon that sometmes had o be
irduded toe scales on the ctartles vanes.

As

hattour

Every elfort has been made o ensure the


aceuracy of ths book. The herbour ptans
were drawn on sle. SOrne plans contain tess
nformation than the authors would heve
liked bul t should be appreciated tha it is not
urversally ac.ceptabie for a foregn yachl to
be malurg detaied harbaur plans
The chartlets are accurae lo scale bul not
!helawn skelehes.
The GPS posjuons given In this book are es
read directfy from the GPS raceiver
The Daum used is WGS84
All bearings ara glven as True and aLi deplhs
are in metres
On the chartlets yachts are shown as sohd
black and other vessels outlne only
Throughoul the cruse there was no
necess,ty lo use an agert at any port excep
n RUSSlan Federaoo, Thefe was a cterge
fo formaltes 111 Russa and Bulgarn and for
the Trans Log n Turkey.

In a Region where progrss is now tas


rules and regulations relative to Yisltiog
yachs mav change Cea;s of the curren
reguauons are on the foIkl.li'rg pages

YS<I

excep czens

of

Bulgara

and

lomer

5oveCountres.

Obtall18d n advance., coontry ol ResIdence orn Trabzon {Turlo'.ey}.


Avalable n Pat on amval a additional cost.
RUSSIAN FEDERATION
firsl a letet oIlnYltatlon is requred listng everyone who is appiying
loraVlsa (see sectionooRussan federation )
Obtained In adYarce from coootry of Residence or a Isanbul woth
help from Ataky Manna
UKRAINE

All Ylsitors musthaveavalldvisa


Tlese afe obtaired in ad'Yllnce in courtry ol Rsidence
or in stanbul wilh help from Ataky Manna.
In addition there iS a charge for Health In$Urance even f Pnvale
Insurance is hed.
Sjnce May 2000 vsa apphca~on5 do not need lo be supported by a
leller of invtaton.

ROMANfA

Visas afe not req.red bul the passpart is stamped in and out ateach
Port of Ertry by Fronler Polce.
In addlIOn a Clearance Permlt is given by Hartxunnaslerto sait from
each port to !he ne~ port or Country.

BUlGARIA

Visas are oo requred bul the passportlsstampecl in and outaleach


Port of Entry.
is giver by the Harbourmaster Lo sail to the ne~
Port ol Entry and when leaYing Bulgana a certifcate of dearanca s
given by him for the neXl Country
Sadng Permsson

To YiSlI any ol hese countries the passport musl be a full passport and valid for 6
afterthe date of the wmmencemen of the lMi,t

As the regulauons are chang'ng quic:kly for each Country

moths

deck wolh

the Embasses n the


country ol resdence belore leaVlng Thes were the nle! appfyng n Summar 200 I.
Excellenl up todate informalon and Yl5a applcaon !orms can be downloaded from
hnp:Jlwwwraveldocs con

THE PUBLISHERS

THE AUTHOM,
P ,nd on Tur1Iey!or the Issg years. the last
wo on Atakoy Marina. Istanbul, !hey have
... piored the wtoie of the Eastem Med .
ndud,ng wo tnps o the Red Sea In all wth

Do

........

Okua

"9 tJOOP
' .. :cte. beam .....,Ih a
L

dr.on ....

'"' has

"

."'~~ i
lhMI lk

il

VOIVO

... '?'tr l tu vltl'y many years, firs

tl''lUtI'MtIO HW.

i Coasl ol Scotland and

<jurt8l end harton

yachls
na i kim Lo eNIlOng caused by the nsng
(MI .oc ....... "" lId them \Q epkre Brittany.
l.' 101 Sp n and Potugal before leavng
At*" LO 'I'i'~ ago kr an extended cn.S8
iri ... "" : do!'...,.snean

ATAKY MARINA, ISTANBUL

Atakoy Manna, stuated s the soulhern end


of lhe Bosphorus. is the Gateway to the
Black Sea. The MaIWlS hes 18km south west
of Istantol cty :etre and only 8km from
Istanbul Atatrn Intemaonal Arpon.

they have sai!ed OV1lr 55.000 nM.

Dunng the pas 7 years they have been


In~oIved wth the plannong and organsaton
of the Eastem Medterranean Yacht Rally
and the Black sea Yad! rally KAYRA. They
..... ere Group leaders n the KAYRA and
EMYR Rallies.
Oorean and Arche normaHy sail the ycht
by themsalves and the eamworX
developsd is evodent in this book where
Arde dre ..... all the charles and skelch
plans and Ooreen wroe the narratve . took
Ihe photographs and snended to the
organ isation. The compolalon of the book
was done logether

In 1996 the member, ol Ataky Marina


Yacht Club obseNed Ihal lew of ther
members had sailed in the Black Sea
although it was on ther doorstep. prelemng
lo sa south to the Aegean. Mler some
dscussion it was deC70ed that a yoct rafty
would be organISed n 1997 to VIS,t the
Tukish coast of the Black Sea Ths Rally.
called KAYRA. was SporlSOl"ed by Atakoy
Marina and was a great success wth 30
yachts from 10 dfferent oountnes taking

pM.
In 1998 KAYRA was e~lended o vlst
Bulgsna and the Ukraine as well as the
Turksh Coast and in 1999. completecircuit
of the Black Sea was sailed vsrung Bulgaria
Romana. Ukrane, Russa. Georgia and
Turney.
By yachsmen demand this
complele circuil was repeated n 2001 with
50 yachs from 14 countnes
Constructor

of Atakoy Marina was


complete<! in 1989 wth a breakwater 01780
metres length eteaMg a protected area of
almast 150,000 square metres There are 7
ponoons each of 150 metres. w/h fnge-s
provding 700berths.

The manna alsa has a tual statlo<l,

A5 a resul! ol the inetease of IlUmbel" ol


foregn yachts VFsiting Istanbul and the Black
the Marina has opened
Information
Certre for cruising yachlSmer . Assstarce
can be given for obtanong the necessary
VFsas !or the Black Sea oountrtes and
COlIresy flags and charts can be Oldered .
In addilion ~ is a mealing place for
yachtsmen o exchange nformation and
has Internet conred7Or1. Fax and telephone
areavaJlsble

sea

an

Marina trsffc control. from the brea.kwaler


towQr is on duty !or 24 hours. VHF ctanoe
73. as Is free of charge ITlCIOring assstarce.

Ataky Manna s the only marina 11'1 Turney


snd 1 of 16 worldwide tohove be&n awarded
5 golden anchors by the InemalonaJ Yacht
Hert:lour Association and alsa ftes the 81ue
Flag as evdence of the effons made
towards enVFronmental proteton by the
Foundaton !or Envronmenta Educaton in
Europa.
lhe Ataky Toonsm complex, one of
the largest projects n Tul1.ey, adlacent to
Ataky Marina are the 5 sar Holiday Inn
Crowne Plazao. the " star Holiday Inn.
Gallena Shoppmg Cenre and Sports
Intemauonal Ftness and Sports Centre
Addiionalil'
a large self service
supermal1.et
and a DIY have opened
adjseent to the mama ~ AutlWllll 2001 .
W,\hn

repar

facihles.

restaurant, laundry. flrst ad. car


pal1:1ng and hard standng 101100 yachts all
wilh (ound the dock securlty

ATAKOy MARINA YACHT CLU8


h.

.\:1

THE BLACK SEA

A.koy

Manna Yacht Club n 1998 for the


doveopmen ol Silllof$ and salng.
Tm Ihrrvng Club now has ts own meetng
and ledure I"OOITIS. restaur"! and a 25
metre seawaler 5wmmng pooIn a superb
Io<:itor on the seaward and of the prinpal
breakwalerof Atakoy Manna.

in additon the Vacht Club ts pun::hasect


Lasars and Drogom for tran'ng the oldar
cMdren and seWlral races for keelboats
belonglng lo dub members were organlZed
n \he surnmerol2001.

The Club OfglInlses Ralhes dunng the


summer and playcd and plays il central role
n the pteparaton of KAYRA (Btade Sea) and

In the wnler !ectures on Silling, raYigatoo


and safety s a feature and ol course SOCIal
evenlS are not over1ooked.

MAYRA (5ea of Marmara) yach ralles. in


the spnng o 2000 it acquired 24 Optrnsl
d'nghes

and has run several hJ9hly


successlul course for 20 youngsers
belwger1 the ages of 8 and 13 and enable<!
them to take pan ~ IDeal regattas..

very large sea covenog


461,000 square kilometres, which ls twice
the size of Ihe Aegean $ea to whld li is
conoected by the Bosphorus. the SOO of
Marmara and the Ordenalles The Black
$ea is deep, reachog 2500 metres n plates
although there iS il rye shallow area in the
northwest comer between the Oanube Delta
and the west coast of Ukraine Ths is the
breeding ground for many types of fish,

Due o OWlrflshng mucl of the large fsh


stock s now depleted bul andovy are sill
caugh n toos, The shoals ol anctovy make
a orcular tour ol the Black Sea every year
starting near ()dessa in early August and
returning o spawn In the spnng. Sturgeon
and turbol also breed in ths sla l low area

For the yachtsman the Black Sea offer-3 slx


complately dffe rent countnes, a wode range
ol cultures. temperatures. wonds, ra,n and
places of shei\er, aD ercompassed in an
area that can be cruised n one seaselll.

There are sevaral gas platforms and 0.1 and


gas pipe lines run under the sea Sea tralfc
is increaslng fNery year to service Itese
proects New large tarbours iiff! teng butt
wth the most up to date !IIClhues.

The Black $ea

In(lLl member$ eslabllshlKl

In 2000 the Yach Club together with Alaloy


Manna pubhsted the booio; Cruise Ukrane
wh lch LS now ncorporated in a compacted
form in Cruse the Black Sea

s 8

Tur1ley. Bulgarla and Romana form Its


westem edge and Ukrame. Russii! and
C EI CW'Q1a form the northem and easem
shores
The enbre soutem shore s
Tur1lsh.

'

r'

illUI i
,
'r o

Several large rivers IIOW into the soo of


wtct the Oanube, Omeper and the Don are
best known o yachtsmen. t is \hse rivetS
thal have reduced life in the Black Sea
deplhs due to !telf c;orstanl Innow over
tousands of years of organc matanals
Ths has resulte<! n a gian reservor of
hydrogen sulphide belng formed at depths

of 150 to 200 metres

makng

Ihe wale!"

_.

The ses is an importa.nt transport roote


Inkng eastem countnes wth the rest of the

In the mU$&Ums of the Black Seli po! ts


races of the Bronze Age the Greek. and
lonian civhzatons, the Roman Empre and
the OUomans can be seen togelher wth the
many valuable artilacts they haWl lelt

behind.
The Black Sea

s a msnomar.

The Black
Sea s n fact as blue, green, and turquoise
as the Medterranean it also has crystal
dear waters and exceent beache5 spread
ak:nQ LLs coast!ine The prfNious name of
Pontus Eunus the HO$pllable Sea ls mud
more ltog

stnUe

This hydrogen sutphlde is also s e811 ashore


a! the varous spa settlernenlS around the
shares where it use<! for cura!JWI baths.

WEATHER

WEATHER and CURRENTS


The saihng season lasts from earty May to
Iate September. atthough October can also
be very good In wnter the coid rorthc1y
WndS aften bting severe storms
In spnng west wnds wth httle swell seem to
oomnate thefl as the watff bOCOll1CS
warmer sea breazes commerce bIowng
onstore durng the dayand olfshore at
night At ths bme as the _ather changes
there are $OIT16tmes several days of strong
easterly wndS
By mod SU1llfTl6f the weahef is settled and
each d8y has blue sioes. iot sunshne and
ses breezes There appears to be a regular
pattem. the wnd COfTVTIenCeS at:oot 10am
nceases siowty to 5pm _akens and by
8pm calm, Then aroond lam the offshore
breeze starts, stroogest between lam and
4am and then d~s abOllt Sam this leaves a
peood of calm between Bam and IOam for
motOllng and charging the balterles
Wnd.

apan Irom momng calms was


typica lly Bealort 4, and oly on three
occaslons dld I each 6 Ths was over a
periodol 4months

m Julyand August and II is not unusual for


!hesr temperature to be over 40" C wlh the
seawa!ef at 30" C

Wind drecton. number of days n eacll month. 2001. Number of calm daylS shown n centre of
crcle.

The currents in the Black sea are very


vanable. Travelkng east alorg the Tur'kst
ooast the current was noatly favourab~
e)(cept where dea,~ n the secton 00
Tu1<.ey. In octer araas of the Black Sea they
appearoo Lo be marly wnd doven. They
are sel::Iom more lhan 1 knol Srooger
currenis are SP6Cified n the booi; Thera
are vanatons ifl waler level dependent 00
barometnc pressure

The

"i
5

wnds n

thema!ly

the Black Sea are mostly


nduced onshore wnds and are

June 2001 was spent at


the easem half of Turllish coast. July
Georgia and Russa plus the passage from
Russa to Romanla which accounted lor 5 ol
the NW wind days in thal monlh
lnkod

{D

Iocaton.

>------l i l - -

Gales are seidom in sumITler' bul there are a


few days of strong (F6) which s.rposngly
often arrive on lhe dales as g,ven n the old
Coplk calendar
Copli(: Calendar

Heavy clouds WLII upsel ths pattem ,md alsa


Iocalabnormalbes that are menlloned m the
following chapters
When WOf\;.lng east alorg the Tlrksh roasl
the sea breeze starts earhff every day. This
iS COI"fected on reach..-g Georga. w1ct is
\WO ho..rs allead ol Turkey o the dock
local lisherman rformed Okura that if the
barometer remamed. e)(CU<lng diumal
vanato. around lOISmb the wealhet
WOLIId be setled
In earfy season ngll15 are stli cooi
especially when the wnd biows olf the snow
covered mo.ntalO$ btt the sun ahnes
althougll not wth the 11'118flSty ol the Aegea.n
and along the Turkish coast there is ollar a
doud COVff over the mo.ntans In !he
eastam comff arovnd Soctn, Pot and Hopa
it canbe very humod

May16
MayZO
May23

Slroog wnd notIeriy


Stroog wnd nortteriy
Stroog wrd soullle1y

June2
Junell-12
June22
June27

Strong wind nortterty


StroogWlnd
Stroogwind

July 11
July30

Stroogwind
Strong wird

August5
AugustJl

Srongwind (Jdays)

Strong WinCI

Septembef6
Septembef 21

0,,.
0,.

Sepemter

StrongWlnd

October5

""y

"i

Stroogwod notheriy

30

Strong wnd

Strong wnds are Beaulort force 6 lo 7


Ga!es are BeaufortforC6 7 t08.

M.y
Days w itll ra in
Days w ilh Ihundef"!lorms

10

J une

,n

July

August
nil
nil

11

PREPARING FOR CRU ISING IN THE BLACK SEA

Ordnary vehc!e Iype lead/aCld baUetles

(accumulators) Iocally made or mported ar


avalable as are basc type altemators
In mos of the Countnes spare parts can be
imporled
by Courer, ask the
Harbourmaster which is the loeally
approved camer

Shl ps Dcx: unwn s

Lights

Offical

when archoring n harbour especially n the


new harbours in Turkey, li s essanllal o
disptaya proper andor lighl a a o..... !eYet.
not masthead AI rnghl the harto.m; are
mosty unlil and smaS fishing boas ener
and lea~e a an tmes The fshe",n are
aoo uoaa;ustomed o fvd a yactt n tter
harbcu"sa it must be visibie.
Harbour lights in fis hing ports are nol
normalty Ht in summe r when Ihe fishl ng
saason is elosed.

Any presctptoo personal medICal suppltes


should be on board. The Iocal chemsts can
supply many proprielary medcnes
Istanbul s a good place to stock up on
presaptoo drugs' wih:ut the prescnptoo.

Money.

Thi ngs lo l ake

U.S. DOLlARS are the best eurreney \o


take. Theyare easily exehanged
everywhere for Iocal eurrency and can alsa
be used topayforsomegoods.
Cash In Iocal curreney can alsa be obtaned
byVsa or Masercard from the msny ATM
Shops n same larger lawns In same
:ounlries accept Visa or Mastercard bul do
no depend ofl L.
Fuel is paid In Iocal
etmeney except some places in Turkey
where a cred t card can be used

NO Ionger are qUfWe5

and shortages
notceable In the :ountnes around the Bladl
Sea , MosI things can be found, sametimes
wth a hunt. bul queUe5 now are only sean at
the road &ide where \he"e msy be ii
partcular bargain. Have a look, ~ may be
wortt having_ ThS iS how Iocal fanners get
nd ol a glut of In;t or vegeables
The range ol goods ether Jocal i)( Imported
is now immense and for Ihose whO can
alfortl it allis available.

Boat Preparation

ii !here is a ca on board take ca hlter


enough for the Ip. It was Oflly avalable m
the hypennarket m Varna There S plenty of
cal food a~ailable bul no liner oog food 15 on
sale everywhere.

Ships Papel$ sIowng


OffIcjal numb&<, pon of registry, sizes.
tonnage and ownershp are required
A Ships Stanp sIowng boats name.
regstered number. pon of regsry and name
of owner 1$ a neessty it is used on aa
oiiicial paper$ Can be obtaned in Istanbul.
Captam's Celtficate of Competence Ths
1$ examned n Istanbul and in RUSSla and

Personal Preparation

Romana.

A General Dedaralor should be prepared


before amvng in any of the COI.Intnes.
example in Appeocll.

see

Numerotls Crew Lits should alsa be


prepared for the JOUrney
example In Append.

see

Flags
Courtasy Ilss of a good size are required.
These can be purchased In Istanbul The
flags of the taunmes are as shown on the
tavar of tha book bu Georgla was Intandng
o change and the flag for Bulgarle has
recenlly been aered \o Incorporae a eres
in te top panel.
Each Country has a differen approact lo
flags In TuMley the flag mU$! be to te
COITect proportions and ihe tar COITectfy
angled. "darnaged it is likely that you witl be
asked todlange it Take a good supply for a
iorg flJise in the Black Sea
Geo: gia is also partcular bout ts flag but in
Russan FederaOr'l. Ukra'ne od Romanis
il s ohen dflicu \o make out wta s lan of
the nag. bul \he Bulga ars are proud of

...,

To sa Lo the Bladl Sea a yach must be self


suffcer and have a good supply of s.pares.
Ttere are very lew yacht chandler; lf1 the
:ounles bordeing the Black Sea.
Drty
fVeI 15 unfortunaely a fact of !fe sa tilers
have to be easily changed lo a~od anxous
momenls al sea. Waer rhers should alsa
be eas/y deaned as eIy rst find the tOIeS
for water intake mosl atradM. CaIT)' tIIoce
the number of fillers thal you hnk ')'04J WiI

""""

As. canIStefS are req ...red lo any desel and


watet in mosl harbo..rs excep odessa and

Suhna theystouklbeonboard .
Fenders as large as can be carried, the pear
sMpe(! ones are especally good for rying
aIoogside listng boats n habours
Spare mooring fnes, tyng lo roogh nngs
soon wears through the Ines
tf depeMent 00 shore electricity ii cat>le of iii
leastl50m IS requred

poslcards of Ihe home town of the boat. and


samesmple English Boo~s.
old yach lng magazines ara favoontes wth
other Iocal sailing yachts
Th lngs to b uy
In Turkey many hours can be spenl haggling
wim the carpet salesman for the perfec:
carpet for the ycht or home,
Champagne, cognc. vodka and wine in a
the COI.Innes good qualily and a bargan
bu sampie before purdasirg as same
wiies, especally Russian, are too sweet for
European taste.
Smoked ham and sausages bulonly m the
marke statls or the Govemment owned
stops. a queue of Jocal peopie means the
quahty and poce are good Do ro! bu)' on the
Mr&ets where the quality and age s doubful.
Panbngs, thewholearea has many first rale
artsts and an oiginsl pantng makes an
excellenl memeoo of the cruse.
Pn\ed eggs and wooden dolls. good for
smail presentsathome.
Cavar from the Ukrane, but gel Jocal
assslanceon the best brand.

i'

Have plenty of book5 on board for readng


There are very few EnglISh language books
fl)( sale and even lower Englsh speaking
yachtsmen to swap wth. EnglISh, Frend
and Geman books and newspapers are
avalable al the bookstands n the holiday
resorts of AIbena and Gokktn Sands in
Bulgana
Gifls
Foregn yachs

are a rovelly in the Black


Sea and msny peopie wll vsit ohan bongng
gft5 of wine, sweels or iist Itls a good idea
to have on board some smsllltems from the
countryol the yactt lo give in return
Items thal are grea/y apprecatOO are smail
national nags, pins from the counry or slae,

12

--

-.~

13

HINTS fROM lOCAl YACHTSMEN and OTHERS


Weather Lote
If the weater femains around LO 15mb the
weatherWlII be setled . good
If seagu"s s on the water weatter w be
good , iow ftyulO II WLII be stormy
If a full moon nses red yactsmen should rol
sleepinbed Ilwllbeawndyrghl
A heavy dew n lhe momrg bnngs setted
..... &atter and Ioghl wnd$
In BatulT'l wth wesl woods alarmng black
douds form on the mO.m18IILS IIllmedately
eas of the antraflC8 but do oot rdcae wnd.
ran . or thundersorm.
A strong Wlnd may be e~ wter
rossng the Kerch Channel between
RUSSla and Ukrane.
IfBear POIIlt. MsAyu Dag. n Ukrane wears
a hal of cioud expset Wlnd
II the mountans NW of Yalta have doud
fallng downon lhem expect squalls from the
NW of 35ks laslng only abool Y. hour
Nav.x

The coastguard boots III the Black Sea


oourtnes are oflen identfled wth orange.
whte and black Sbpel> In Turlley theyare
known as Sah~ Gven~k and resenoed
harbour spaces are marlled wth the orange
black and whle stnpes.
In UkralOO the coastguard is alad lebed
and in the remainng oounties they were
ref_ed to as Coastguard.
Taleph oning
In all the countries GSM worked apart from
Iocal areas whefe there was ro recepllOn
The counries aU have payahead SIM atds
and if staylng for some hmEt are wortt
purchaSlng, Che<;kfrsl Ihalltle lelephone IS
compalibte

sanbul

\/om,

,
C
O
J

These all cover ~el)' large and comple>;


areas The exp&8ce over the years is tha
ManuPOl and Odessa tend to be pessmlStc
for wnd strergth,
Navy Ellerel.e Aren
Clned servces

ol all the oountries


frequerlly exercse aroord the Blad<; Sea
coast The areas ard daes are !ssusd on
NaVlex bad A.

Odds and ends.

Romanlan Currency
Spend or change

baclc to dollars all

Romanan

before

c.rrency

leavng

the
ooontfy as li canrot be ctanged elsewhere

Book

to rtacl for more abeul Ihe Black

S .
lorely
Counry

The

Planet, Travel Guides lor ead!

The Rough Guides for eact County.


The Bradt Travel Guide for Georgia.
Blaclc see eNIsng Gude
RICk and Steda Ne/son.
ISBN 0-85228 173-8
Blad<. sea
Neal Asderson.
ISBN 0099593718

Yoghurls unobta nable

ret.lv.r codes

Manupol
Odessa

The

Coaslguard Service.

very dressy and ravealng. In the large


holiday re-!lOrtsol Sochi. n Romana and n
Bufgana anythirg goes by way of dothng.
Dress in Georga 15 more restraned. many
women weanng fa ncy hats.
In Georg~ to have yourglass reflled rt muS!
firsl be emply.
In Ukrane to have your glass refllad always
piace rt on te table . it is considered very
rude to hoid iI up.
In Ukraine never Ieave empty bottles on the
tabla Pul ten undemeah.
Do no eqect to wa!k around after darl.... it is
dangerous because apart from the mlddl. of
large Cl\JeS !here is very r,t!Ie or ro Steet
lighling_
In UkraIOO and Georga many manhole
covers are stll mlSSirg n the remale( arsas
so wald your feet.
Do ro! dnnk and dnve. Even the $ITI&II of
dnok can maan a very haal/)' fina Respset
your tosts or guests .....ho may be dnveo; and
have plenty of sofi dnnk on board

From a publiclelephone n Ukran8 dal


8 wa\ for line Ihen 10 (Counlry Code)
(exchange)( number),
Wher person arswers press 3 for
connecbon,
Phone cards purdased n one lawn WLII rot
necessanly worll in another.
LotalCulture .
On the Tur1lish BIad:: Sea ooast women
should be conservauvefy dressed when
gong ashore n respea for the Iocal women
who are often dressed in Iocal attre of
coIourful scarves and iong skrs although
!he modem young weM bIouses and jeans
Trousers and covered shoulders are most
sutable and in town men seldom wear

except n Romania
and Bulgarla. instead lJse KEPHIR of sour
cream a very good alternatives.
Caleulation ofcosl of berthlng In a
Stale owned Port in Ukraine
This is on a YOluma baSlS o the same rule as
Commercial shipping:
Overall lenglt x maximlJm beam x
Heghl ol de<;k above water amidshlps (811 In
metres) multplied by SO.00725 per day
One day 'S 24 hours lrom amva' whid
works out for Okura 50 oents per day

,horu;

In aU the countries aparl from Turl.ey


wear iong skwts or dressesoften

I&des

I LE

14

-'---

BEACH

15

CHARTS
Turksh

chans are publlshed by the Hydrographic InsuMe of the Turksh Navy ,nd provde
reasonable cover of the Black Sea when used in conjunction Wlth this book. Theyare
avalable in Istanbul where they can be ordered ahead with the help of Ataky Manna.
For the Danube Oelta experSlVe Geman and English dans. or out ol d,e Russian are
avalable bul are ro rea lly necessary for the section ollhe Danube oovered n ths booi..
ehans of the Btad<. See wth varyng amounls of details are also available from American.
Britlsh Admlfil!ty and Geman Hydrographic otrices
Turksh ehart 10
easem

covers \he enUre Black Sea wth Charts

oa and 1at oovenng westem ard

l"IaIV9S respectrvely.

The skelch beiow shows roughly the OOYerage of the 9 pnr;pal chartl;;

same of these chans. partlcularty \he Turlush Coas are st.bdlvded. For example Chart iLs

oovered by 111 , 112, 113,.

ete

enart 2921 for the Bosphorus s essenbal and Chart 1821 for entry into Boorgas is desrable

TURKEY

The se:tons in the book deta1 ng \he Turkey coast have been made o agr" wth the

""''''

"
TURKISH CHART NUMBERS

16

17

THE BlACKSEA COASTOfTURKEY

Here li s possb!e lo anchor In complete


shelter and enoy the peace ol the deserted

fORMAlITIES

surroundngs

coostlne ol Turkey
the soothem shores of lle Black Sea.
the Bosptorus easwards lo Hopa
s 630nM and from !gneade on lle

The 9000M Black Sea


forms
From
\here

weswan;'slO the

Bosphorus !here is 70nM

TIle BIadc Sea coas Is one of the most


beaullful areas ol Turkeyand wU come as a
surpnse to those who think of Turkey as a
hol dry !and. AlIlmaginable shad9s of grten
are on dsplaydue to the planlfu! ranla,
Mountan lIiIIageS p9(ched on the h~lsdes
and the flshing VIILageS on the coast retan
ther Iradtions The many dlfereol cullures
ol the peopie who _tled Ilere n ancenl
\mes and are OOYI part of the Tuf1<.sh
Republlc display varyng f&aal features and
stature Tradlional dothes are s\ll wom by
manyol the peopie and the coIour and
lexture change from one eree toaoother In
the larger \Own conuete htgh-rse blJildirgs
replace te wooder Otaman houses bIJI
nese ca" s\ll be seen n the many villages
Inland from the me", coastal silip
The nonhern coast of Turkey along the
Black Sea figures promlnendy In Greek
mythoiogy n the !egends of the Amazans
and te Argonauts wto sailed the wsters in
search of the Golden Fleeee end n many
IOWOS end villages there are monumenls to
ihese ancient herolnes and heroes.
Ths

coast alsa plays a pmrmnent part Lo


modem histOtV ol Turkey as li was n
Samsun !hat Atatir.. larded Lo May 1919
marking !he start of the campagn lo Iree
Turkey from loregn oco.pa\lon. This ied to
the establlshrnen of the Tul1.ish Republic

SaHing from Istanbul the coastloe starts wth


wlde sandy beaches and drtfs. Betmd this
are the KlrOlu Mountaons. one of Turkeys
majot ski reserts. Then te dffs become
hgher lalhng straght ",to !he watef" wth
Villages perhed on the top and every nat
place planled wth halelnuts
Coal iS alsa
mred Lo ths erea. From seaward the mnes
and landng ewes used In fomer years to
eKpor1 the coal areobvious

The landscape then becomes safter and


gr: Ener wth obacco gfOWlng in every
available spo!. The mountalOS then reum to
the coast and the area has the appearance
of Switzertand wlth wooden houses buil! on
green alps amd the pina uees.
As the ar becomes damper and warrner ea
1$ wtllvaled on every sutable piece of
ground,
The mafticured tea gardens and the rI'IIS!
hangng n the mountains add a mysenous
ar. whch is reminiscent of the Far East.
Mounla,ns, rising to 4000m wth snow
tovered peaks are vislble when te mlSl
parts and beneath them waterfalls ascacle
lOto the sea

Mannas as oommonly known do not edst


but several \Owns have yactl dubs otreflng
m!lnna type facilites.
Sdtng n most hartxurs iS a problem dua Lo
the sandy seabed bul the tartxur is
dredged regularly. same '" iact ha~ lher
own dredger removog te sand fOf the
corstructon of the Y6I1I Yol.
Ths s the new hghway bBrg corstruced
alorg the coasl and evdence of ii 16 seen
evef)'Where. In same parts ii has maan the
construction of new harbours and n others
the elimination of existng hartxurs. From
seaward much of the coastal prolecton
being buill appears like harbour
breakwaters

On the weslem end of the Back Sea coas


the hills are covered wth plne Irees and the
waterside is lined witl a golden beach.
There are few ot.ablants, The t.artoors
here are used by smail fshng boats sa the
depth of waler avalable 15 someumes not
sufficien! for a yacht.

In Summer 2001 Okura VlSIIed aLi available


hartxurs on the Turkish Black Sea coas
and the hartour chartles were drawn on
Me

The walers around the Turkish 003st are


dean although samehmas disooloured Wllh
the rtJsh of water from the land after raln
Beaehes varyirg from golden lo black sand
are deserted, At the foot of a mountaln gully
there iS often a sandy beach for a tunchtime
stop. The water is usuatly deep ciose to the
shore Uflless near the outlet of a large nver
where s!tng takas ptace Off!ying rocks are
shown on the charts unless very ciose to the
shore where they can easily be seen.
Sailing from west to east the water becomes
warmer every dayand Lo Hopa LI water
temperature ol 3Odegr99S C was i ewrded
!orseveral days
Harbours are found n eV9ry VlIlage or town
akng the entre coasthne same old, same
new. same bttsy, same deserted, but all gve
a fnendlywelcome to VISltrg yachtsmen A
space 'Nin always be found even f t maans
movng boats alntady!here same ol the
new t.artxurs are not ye( compiate and we
refer tO these as "anchorages wth walls'

The sallng season iS from earty May o ~te


September and often the best sailng can be
had early or Iate in the saason Then the
wmds blow seadily at s moderate strerglh
althO\.lgh !here s a risk of a slrong blow but
with a harbour always near shalter can soon
be fouOO. In mid summer the wlOds are
mosUy a sea breeze, blow rg onshore
during the day aOO oft"shore ai nlght. Ths
oor\nuous onshare breeze an buld up an
uncomfortable but not dargerous swell. A
strorg wind bIowng in Roma",a or the
Ukrane can alsa cause a swell when !here is
no wind on the Turksh coast. Ran S not
urcommon but rt is usually III the form of a
relreshng shower, this is more ~kely the
further east the journey Amund Hopa in md
summer can be tropicai, damp and hlmid.
and this is oorfimed by the banana
plantators and palm rees that grow \here
Crowds ashore are never a problem as the
maS5--fTl<lr..et hoIidaymaker does not yet
inow ths are!! Mos of the holiday makers
are e<ther TUrkISh ot from lhe former
Russan States.
II iS relreshng o be
greeted as a tourst as f !halis somethng
spedal.

All loreogn yactlls must enter Turkey al a Port


of Enlry. The ebre et9W mus! ha~ a
passport valid for the length of stay n Turkey
tagether wlh a vsa r necessary, Ctzens of
most oountres can pufchase a vsa at the
Port ol Enry. Ychls saillng to the Black
Sea from outside Turkey wi probably use
Istanbul as the Port of Entry. Here Atakoy
Martna win assst wth the papelWOf1\..
A TranM log ml.lSl. be pwchased (cosl $30
in 2001) and oomplated wlth the relevant
Information and stamped by the offici.als.
The Transit Log allows a yacht lo trave
freely n TUf1Iish waters and mav be
Inspected by any t.artour offici.a\ al any time
The Transt log is varld lor I year bIJI is
caneeled f a yc::hl leaves Turkeyorthere is
a change of ownershlP ol the yachL on
leavng Turkey the Trans log is cancelled
and a lhe same bme the exl stamp is
ent9fed n the passport. Ports of Entry and
EM for ths area are as foows

PORTS of ENTRY
Istarb,l

Zonguldak
Snop

Samsun
Gresun

Trabzon
R
gneada

(can bearrargedJ

As the harbour aulhortles are


unaccuslomed to yachts t 15 good to ha~ a
spare uars,t log on board,

PROVISIONS
Evey

smaIl vilage even in the most remote


c:omer n Turkey has a shop lor basic
provsons
This shop mav be !he Iotal
teahouse or even in a privae house. In
Turkey ba$C provlSIOflS mears bread
cgarettes, b<)ed water. choooIate and
deanng malanals
larger villages have
mn ma1<.ets where the extenl of goods is
larger and !here mav be a separate open
market for Int and vegetabtes

As there are law yachls n ths area a yachl


musl oome well slocked wth spares
Fortunatefy the bus S9Nce along the entre
coas!hne s very good so in emergeney
spares can be mdered from Istanbul and
transported by bus or couner

18

19

A bakery producing Iresh bread can be


dffc.l to find altlough there is al !east one
in each smail Yillage bulrom the worderlul
smell is easiry raoed.
FIliI$h bread is
essenta to a Tu1c
Along the coast the
bread varies In sile and taste accordng o
the fIour used but always good
In Ihe larger lowns supernarkets are often
situated cIose o the mosque and they seli
evl!l)'1tng and usually ttefe s alsa a market
PIa(:e seI~rg oca produce Each tOYm has
a spec;:ial farmers mar1lel day where the
fa rmers brng vegeables, homemade
bfead,local cheese, andolher !ocal produce
Into lown, Ofien these are callad women's
manr.el$ as the stalls are. unusually for
Turkey. uoder the conro of woman dressed
n kXal gab. NaIl!. B elMe pholographin
< sk for permission A Yislt to one of these
manr.es can be greallun es sampks ol the
food ere offered lo the lounsls amd peals of
l augher from Ihe Iocals.
Bottles of elc:ohol and beer n ths area of
Turkeyare soid by a spec.alized shop or
kosk and can sometimes be dffllJlt to find
SupermarkelS do not aftan seli aloohol_ The
!ocal Turkish beers are excellenl and the
various wlnes ava lable range fr om
indlfferen to excellenL.
Local meat and pasta are very good and
lnexpen$ve by European standards
Many of the harbours are some <flStance
from towr so when shops are neatby stoc.
up Lo avod a iong earlY ol heavy goods.
Fish s nea1y amays available in the
harbour. ype depending on season, and a
crusng yachtsman wlll normally be
embamssed wlth the an'lOUnl ol fist gven
to a yacht.
There does not seem any iem thal canno
be purchased as mary ol the larger
supemarkes in the man towns stock
mponed goods_
English newspapers can be found in the
inlernatlorell'oels in Samson and Trabzon
bul bring plenty of readng matenal

TRAVEl
A1anglhe eastem lenglh ol Ihe Turkish Black
Sea coast ravel is easy and bener

20

every year as the Yen Yol along lhe


waterside s beng compleled. There Is en
excellerl bus 5efVIOC9 wth modem buses
servng ao owns beweer Hopa , Istanbul
and Ankara Between each Yillage end own
\here iS a oca servce
Bus hmes ere
exhbited at all bus stations but beware thal
the counlry buS9S are tmed for trips o town
rather than lo Ihe mountains te theyamve
in own early mornirg and leave afternaon.
Travellng by the dolmu through the
rxuntrysde s a worderlul way to meet the
peopie and see !'r'IOf9 of Turl<ey and the
scenery away from the coast is even more
spectacular. Local taxs make up for wha is
mssing from the buses and are Qulte
Inexpensive, bul egr" fare firsl
Airports at Trabzon . Samsun and Snopoffer
aif connections to Istanbul and Ankafa
To the wesl of the Bophorus the story is
differenl. Here most roads nn infand so a
trip along the coast can mBan a king etour
ard a change of transport.
The roads
towever cornect o the motorwav al'\d a
QUck retum can be made to Istanbul
The
fOCaI dolmu S91V9S the needs of the Iocal
mhabitants.

CQSTS
Due to the

LANGUAGE

PEQPlE

Turlush s spoken by most TlJf1t;s although in


the furlhesl east Laz Is spoken_ Many Iocal

The PeOPIe ol the Blad. Sea coast are the


mosl foeodly we have met anywtere. As
law toursts vst they go out of !heir w av to
show the tems of nteresl arourd their towr
orvinage.
ii iS the frs place thal we ha~e not been
charged for a meal "as you are ourisls"
Whal a difference from other counlrie$ ready
to cheal the tourist!!! A bu! driver WLU otten
var{ his route to show same sight ard some
one wlll speak same English al'\d enqure on
behelf olthe rest of the bus "do you like our
counlry? " Cups of tea are offered by
complae srargers ard it iS nde to refuse.
arriving in harbour often someore wit
rdicate where s best o go ard if a yachl
appears doubtful aboul the entr.nce a
fishermen wi appear lo iead it n. Never n
three manths were we asked lo move from
our chosen enctlor place. Once tied up !he
Iocels wll appear to see the vsting yacht
and Lo hear about your tfesyie.
The
fishernan are lnendly bnngng gfts of fish ,
aftan deaned and sametimes even cooked,
they do not appear to reS9flI !hat the
yachtsman is on holidayard they are
working,
The generoslty can be
embarrasslng but accept il gracelully as that
is the T ur1dsh attitude o slrenger5

daleclS ellis\.

language can be dilllcuk as the fu1hereast


the less English is spoken bul uSllill!Y
someone wllI appear to help through the
English they have leam as seamen, or wth
German.
English is now taughl n aif
sctoois and the chldren are keen to
praaice. OfIen they of ther teach9f have
not previousty met a natve English speaker
es theyare taughl mostly by cassee.
Same simple E nglsh books are appfeclaed
esag,ft.

CURRENCY
The curreocy is the Turlush tra and in 2001
the rate ol exchange was 1.4 million lira o
the$l,
The rate " uctuales from day lo day There
are many ATM throoghool the Blad; Sea
coas! so money is no problem. Credit cards
are accepted in the iarger towrs lor goods
ard servce! but In YiOages cash wll be
epected fOf fuel
Smail restauranlS wll
only accept cash,

on

benefclal raa

of exchange for
foregners livng COSIS are inep90Sve f
mported goo:Isere evoided_ local markets
seli eklhes for expOtt at goo:i poces, For
costy thngs be prepared to haggle over the

_.

TIME
In Tunr.ey sandard hme s GMT ~ 2 hours.

Eating oul ls aKcenent value ard on a ha


sunvner night has a LOt to commend t. Mos
areas have a Iocel specafty.
F ood in
restaurants iS often dsplayad whch mak~
selection easy SOme resta<a<nls open only
at tuncttme and many do not sel! alcotof
Harbour cnarg9S are mnmal if requestad

MEDICAL SERVICES
Many new osp.ta!s hava b e9f1 buit n
recert years in the towns and even the
smalleslvillage has a medical certre, Many
doctors speak some Engl ish or Gernan.
The pharmacy can deal with most problems,
and dspenses medicaton aganst a foregn
prescnption.

21

,
- --' -

,<

z_._

TURKEY
Sedion 1.2.3 and 4

Bosphorus to Georgia

- -1

22

TURKEY SECTION 1

Turkey Section 1 Bosphorus to Amasra


i

'f

, ,f, J
44

,1 0/
~
~ U.

3--,;

'/
,, ..,

--
,

>-

. =- ~ ~

a'f~

,
,,

-i

~]

_ O.

,...."

~ :>nJO

', . '

'I'

.1

'\

"

"!

:i

J
'

From OIuce Burnu the generally steepcoast

AmaSfa

wth

Its

lghlttouse,

F1 LOS. some

the rortheasl LS the oex


sgn,fican headland . There are no oftlying
hazards on this sectior of coasL The
harboor at Zonguldak provides a good
rermedlae stop.
5OnM.

fuitter o

Beween

Ere?jII and Zonguldak !here are a


surprising number of atIJactive bays nesding
in the d iffs for use in good weather.

Kalken Adas. Gp Fi (3) 155 should be


passed on its seaward slde gMng the
omyng rocks aleast Quarter mle dearance

In ear1y summer west or even southwest


wnds of lghl to moderate strength seem
Qurte common as far as Er~l

iS covered wth trees and hazelnut


plantat>Ons. The ddl' faced promontory at

The coaslline then becomes much gentier


witt roIIing green hills benind golden sands.
rocky Ileadlards pmviding harbours project
al ite and Kalken. There are many sandy
bays ereaong good weaher archorages

Black Sea.

Alter leaYing the mnfines of the Bosphons


the COiIsI remans dl Nned for il few miles.
Eek Adas , FI R 3s, should be passed to the
seaward &ide.

z ,

. 1 ,t
__

enterng o( leavng the

','

Poyrazky. wtct snctly spealung 1$ n the


Bosphorus. makes il convenenl stop when

-,g L,f

BOSPHORUS TO AMASRA

Anadolufeneri. Fi 2Os . marks the northeast


endoflhe Bosphorus.

PASSAGE Nom

A shal!ow 55 mile bay

foow

lo the

promment headland of Olce Burnu, Gp FI


(2) Os. Pfote~ng the large commerClal port
of Er~li . There are high mounta ns. almo;
2000m. mland of Ere{h thal remam snow
Cilpped un~1 well mlo summer. In ths iong
bay Akakoca iS the only rnrt:our.

1:

15
, ."

-~

.=

.f;'~'.

th ,,'!E
~ .,

""
1

:~

~-

..w.
~

,n-

z,

of

,s .". ~

24

I LE

25

POYRAlKY
Salng north up the Bosphons the breakwater is conspicuous wth the minaret on the hlllslde
behlnd the harbour The bay behind the breakwater is popular wth boats Irom Istanbul at the
weekend whem the anchorage can be crowded but mdweek there is plenty of room The
nside ol the breakwater s quayed and a yactt may find space between the !ishing boats and
oher iocal craft to anchor and le stemto but anchorng s best. The water s clean enough IOf

swimmlng and an eree 1$ bouyed olf at the beach IOf swmmers.

approachng

harbour.
above and underwatar rocks
",~the breakwater

opposle

,=

"
N
Se~eral restaurants line the beach and they

all offergood fresh fish Steep steps lead up


from the harbour area to the mosque behnd
whd there is a baker Wlth a wood lired
o~en. Continulng onwhat Is now e rod and
dmbing several smail shaps ere found
amongst the houses that ere bu!! on the
Msde Once on the !evet e smell viIIage
straggles along elther sOe of the road Here
there is a plcnc area ... th good vjews out
over the elacll Sea
Around the area!here ere many good walks
to be lound bot rnary stop ebnptiy at military
checkpoints
From the rrwnret il bndge !eads out to the
gut'i emplac;ements end ammurution stOfes
and a great vew of the Bosphon..s

26

----

on Satmlay a smail iocal market akes


place on the hillslde lares. For lurtller
shoppng a frequent dolmu$leaves from the
road at the beach area to the nearby village
ol Anadolu Kava

1
""0. ~ ~ _.. . ~

A pleasant walk starts from ths area.


Walking inland untl a path s sean branchlng
lo the nghl amongst houses foIlaw th is
elmbng along the hllside.
Evantually ii
meets a wder path. here tum righl ard
follow Ihs down a vajiey back lo the seasoe
The path emerges opposle the rocks thal
are just under the water. The path fWNI
scrambtes aloog the shore bacll to the

""""','"

piace to stelter
while wating for suitable Wflathe<" to sai east
n the Black Sea

,"
,

.... ' ~ &0'_

PoyrazJ.iJy is an exceOenl

POYRAZKY

N 41 12.2' : E 29 07.5'

27

ILE

Alarge fonn8l' fiSing harboor w!t a conspicuoos Cilstle on offlyng rocks olferirg good
Siell8l' and e.cellent beaChes for e~pIonrg.
In southe1y or strong westeriy wnds waves enlerlhe harboor and lhe most comfortable place
is anchored olf the southem shore in he harbour keeping dear of te enuance of the smail
fiSing harboor on te eas moie. thS harboor is no suta ble for yachls

The wtoie harboor has been dredged but deptts xme up Quicklyto 1 6m. dose o the shore
e~cep on the nOrtIem mole where the depth is 3. 4m.

wesl, bay west ot tarbour .


sets lU Ui east ot hartxur. The lighl on

iIe

O.5nM south of lhese stets. Soutt slde of


is shallow. see chane for leadng Line.

bul in strong westerty winds

,
.'

ILE

28
.-~

"t..

,
,

~,

- --

N 41 10.7' : E 29 36.0'

29

I lE

IMRENLI KOYU
N 41 09.6 5': E 29 45.5"

lle,

founded n ..,.. century BC" is an


anelen port/or stllPS slng east from tt
Bosptorvs. The case was COOStrucled by
the Byzantnes and used by the onomans to
prolet them from anacks from the sea. The
sheltered harbour LS bult at the foot of a ditr
above whch the owr s stuated Several
slets otr shore ard the castle add o the
attracton of the harbour In the area there
are several bays ptOVidlng good day
anchorages but they wouid not be safe
QVeITigi ii unless in setled weathef or
~.....,

The
the

......

Harboumaser welcomes yads and


smoot quay iS comfcw1able o Lie

The towr reacted by stepsand a steep path


from the harbour has a good selection of
SOOPS aOO cales These on the seabaard
sode have a panoramc;; vew over the
harbour At the wesl and of the main street
'S ar Inlemet ca/e aOO several ATMs are
spread thmughout the town The square at
the lop of the lown oonlars the bus statloo'i
and a market.

The hilly town QIVes good eX8lne to the


boal-bound and amurd oach comer a new
vista appears. Mary of the olda<" butldong are
being restored and a pleasen! park ard
outdoor !heatre has beer oonslJcted iong
the riverwhich IIOWS ,rto the harbour.

'~~.,::~;;-::::!~"':~:'~"~,::~ddlffs.

Imrenh Koyu 9nM from


much reduced in side the

-.
,

The swell is

>

,l

-.;.,~-*-

agalns

Cafes have bu,k smail .rettes where a yachl


coold ile up and aroond the harbour are
mary cafes and restaurants servng
excellent Iocal fish.

The lown is famous for the spec:ai cIot


waver there knowr as le bezt. wt;t s an
apan weave doth VtIry ;;ooi to wear, ard
macle irto stmts and bIouses.

The black and


Surrounded by sandy beaches e is a
popular holday reson ard Ihe water is dean
lor swmmimg, Sand dunes backed by pna
loresIs extend lor mlles along the coast lioe
The sand Is sad to have a hoaling atract on
rheumatism and sciatica

whte s\nped hghlhouse was

by French archlects in 185Q. Close to


the l;ghthouse are the Gryng Rocks where
the water IIOW resembles teardrops.
bult

BOZGACA KOYU
N 41 09.55": E 29 46.72"
ly'ng 10.3nM from S,le this torseshoe shape<! bay ""'th a narrow entranca of6Om,has an
atractve beach. The gently stopng saOOy botom aOO same sheer from the swell makes
'I an atractve stopping place

-.

. -.

,.

I~A

KIUMUKOYU
N 41 08.4 ': E 29 52,6'

L+
PT.T.

'5'"

.." .......
.........
, i<d - n.....o / 1"...

Do.,

.:.~

O..~

L.Ic .... ~

00

of'- ,,:,..

"

A pleasant bay a short dstance easl of Agva wlh an easy pproach. \i has vety CIear
waler wit shingle bea;hes. There is an nlerestng old Yllage ,""th WOCJde,' houses ess
than 1km. along road, The bay 15 sut,ecl to swei,

6 , ........ "...._r~d-

~;..
o-

.c...w.

fo.b";'"

.... ~i

..,....& ;....u..
_~~

,
O
'--,=--,_

30
-

----

31

AGVA 01$0 known as YEiLAY

BA(,;iRGANlI K NEW HARBOUR


N 41' 08.15': E 30' 00.1'
For several years a harbour has besn in consructon 225nm from ile it s epproached
through e bay surrounded w,tn rocks and the harbour enlrance is narrow tn 2001 many
fshing boats were tied In the harbour for repar and the quays were not yet comprete The
fishermen were very frleodly and offered to make room for Okura. The harbour s at present
apan to the notth bul the breakwaer iS beirg exterded.

J-

fisl-;...,

The depth of water over the bar is dependent on the amount of water in the rivef and how

recenllythe enlrance has been dredged

,,

-~,

Here the over of the same name enlers the Black Sea and onca over \he bar provides a
pleasant nvet5de slep, Un fortunately a power line w,th 12m, elearance above the water
restrcts the size of yachts ate to proceed up the nver however \here iS a shor! length of
harbour wall dose to the etectr\c wire that a vessel could use w,th care . The surroundings are
beautful and the smail viiiage has several restaurenis and shops.

,
:, , ' l

1
,.

~~-

"

BA(,;iRGANUK KOYU
N 41' 08.25': E 30' 01.2 '
The bay immedately lo the east of tl'e new harbour is a pleasanl lunch stop with aciean beach
arlCl altractve surroundirgs A shosl palch in the middle of Ihe bay is easily seen snOWlrg
da1\" in weather wnen ths anchorage would be uSed

--'\
,.-0.......
.
'

+' v
".'
"'" ~
~

..."
:::-

......

_i

'-...-

,. . ...~'

S"

<, ,
'..

"'''l~
w"!.

J>" 3\, '"

'"

",

.,~

---~ /\

.,

, ,

,, . ..
,
"' 1,~ l
",

..'. .

"I

""'''''" -,

,"

"'," >,lo

32

f""

,-

'"....... .""!'
1 _

.~

",po

"

-"

,'..........=--=-''":..--'' r

At.VA

(,

N 41" 08.36': E 30" 06.1"


Lyrg 28nM from le th s bay has a sran sunkan breakwater beh ,nd wtct sma& boats are
pulled up on the beach. This is defirlte/y only il calm weahef stop as t is not sheltered even
from the we.....,

SEVREKKOYU

?/

:../PTT

...,.,_.~

<i

e.... ~

,,--~

R -...

....
t_

"",,,,e

N 41 08,5' ; E 29 51.1 '

33

KEFKEN

KEFKEN

There 16 ii M l 18'Y harbour n the bay nort of Bunnu Burnu ..... th a break\Y3ter and a smail
..... helower AI presenllhs Is dosed o foreign yachls except n an emergency.
The fishg harbour breakwaters are qulte dlfc.lt \o see bul have lghl structures.
Kelken is a busy fishg po bul yac:ts re always ..... eicome. If ql,laysde is crowded eooogh
room o ndor The harbour is ope \o the NNW wter the besI shelter s found at the orih
and of the harbour

When the Bosphorus became too poIluted


for s'Nimmng Ihe Summer houses for the
ict were bultn Kelken. Unlortl,lnately n
recen years modem developments have
overwteImed the oIder houses.

from

fish

To flnd banks and the ATM and all types of


shops a dolmu tp ol 18km lo Kandre is
ecessa'Y

or

season there is a desened aif \o the

PIaO:

and many shops are dos ed bul


betweer 15~ June and 15~ &:ptemller ii s ii
busy holiday viiiage bul WlIh only baSC
stoppirg. In the viiiage lhere is an Internet
cahopenlO

otf Burunu BLmU.

Amund the harbour are simple


restaLranlS seMrg good fish

soason.

sou1t or sou1t ..... est.

'"

Besi shelter iS u orth

"

p~T

.. ISo.lr
" _
..... . ht

o ........
" ~i-O ...... t

__ o

......

'-..,

."
/~

I.._ do . . . . . .

, ,

, ~ )

- --

KEFKEN

34

N 41 10.2' : E 30 13.3'
35

KEFKENAOAs

The anchorage al Kefken Adas is a


pleasanl allemaove lo the ~nt nsde
the fishng po of Keflc.en Unfortunately Bn
abandoned fish fam. looI.ng Ike B gan!
spider occupesha'fofthebay

There is shoal water d<se to the nothem


shore of the bayanda shpbes on a moong
and lIed to \he shore bul u.ere s stili room to
anchor in good holdng in black mu!!. Wlt
the clearwater it is easy to find a spoi wthout
weedtodrop lhearchof

Walkng

araund the stand whch in Spring is


covered by WlId f\owers makes il good
expedillon and offers eXClIHen! vews of the
rock Sl1ewn coast araund the stand
A warning has been issued by t he
eostguard about this area .

earthquake in 1999 substant lal


changes have occurred In the sea bed
and the charts of the area arou nd the
!sland are no long,r accurale .
The
eastem passage betwee n the island and
the mai nland is no longer recomm,nded
due to many rock p innacl,s wh lch have
appeared w
~Afterthe

patches lie off the wesl and north


for almas O.250M Refl)( to noe from

KEFKEN

A DAS

KARASU
A new harboor is under consructon tnM east of the mout of Sakaya Nehri. Ths 's
probatly for Karasu town. Even n lls presenl stae i provides good shelleras an anchorage
in slreng weste1y winds when Akakoca s unconfortable

ci

+..

....

KEFKEN

36

-+

.$

'

J.

...

.....
, fi""'f0

ADAS

Nehp",

ConS+-rveh<>f\ in P"o<3r"ess

J ....I'\e

'"M

Sc:.k. ... r )'Q.

2:c1

KARA SU

"
N 41- 12.1' : E 30- 15.4'

37

AKAKOCA

AKAKOCA

The harbour ol AkaJux:a is apparen! from tle west wth

The harbour s

two mnarets and il large hotel boh


of rnodam desgn. Itsexposed o the west and eve n moderate wnds \he swell sels in. In
wnds over force 5 westertyor norttweserty do not 9fller.

coovenenty suale<!

in the

middle of the modem town whlGh has 9rown


from itwl smaU Yinage Garoens have been
lald 00\ aloog te waersde (lisplaying
ancentcrafts

ii has only il

smail fistflg
stem-IO east or
i quays
the mary moorrgs Beware of
extending from the quays. Good

sman area fOf

habour n

Many shops and supermarkets Lie dose to


the harbour and 1f2km o the south along the

rivel'5ide is te covered market open on


Tuesdays. The wtoe owr is very daan
and well cared
\\I,th ITIiIny modem
buildings a. in attractve surroundngs

'Of

yachlS 8S the

the sheltered eomer

of ih harbour is reserved 101' Iocal bctalS


The omale per was lomerty used by shps
Iradng in the Black Sea

Ceveniz Castle 1$
per;:ted on a pne
rovered hlllsida 3Jlm from the harbour and
below is a beautlul beach whct has been
awarded the Blue Flag for deanllness ol the
water.

EI

's

,,.',}4
<

, c-o..d,.
u.
_

, !"'''~

~~

601

ID ................ ..v..

&b'~~~_"

" . ",. !<.d-

...........'
:.-leo

AKAKOCA

38

N 41 05.45':

e 31

07.15'

.. ot

Mc'1'"'

...........

_ . ~ ~_.;GOO

c,ck -~

T_

t"..~~,

.~~

~_ .

o;li""]

.......
. ... J'

39

EREGl!
On approachlrg ol' leavlrg Ereoli a signficanl change in wrd and strergth can be expeted at
OIOce Burnu The large commercal hartx:ur sheltered by ths headland s hdden on approach
from the eas bu from \he west \he chimneys ol the sleel works are consp::uous The buoys
on approad can be igrored by a yactt

------~:=""~eastf nortt \here are no

___O

off The lislwg harto.I s not


. lie well olf the j6tty as

..

the sweH
EREU

'------~~~I~Port ol Entry HeaHh and


Ho"""'. Police adjacl!f1110 yach

GKTEPE
N 41 U.4': E 31 24.2'
The rstng harbour of Alapl is slted

_ _ __

-.,
'-

.-

1m so s unsutable bul. r the


nalurally shellered bay SOUlh of
Goklepe Burnu a yacht can anchor

_ N
il

:.1.1

' ;'

A holiday developmeni has been n


progress for same years and n 2001
the firs breakwater ol 45Qm . and ii
hotel were compIele.

-_. -

'Ib""~ -,......
ot:'::-1
_I-CI

,"- .

A marina lor 300 yachts s ncluded n


the development togeher wth holiday
houses sport area and hotels.

...

~
ERELl

40

N 41 16.9': E 31 24.1'

GKTEPE

N 41 13.4' : E 31 24.2'

41

KEAGZI KOYU

EREGlI

N 41 " 19.75' : E31 27.7:5


The sleel wo1ls and shpbJldirg prOYKle
employmer for 7000 peopIe ard vtal
resoure, fOf Ihe owr which has been
developed 85 a garden tow As a resul the
ndusry does na detrac from Ihe
surrourdngs. Everywhllfe there s an aif ol
prospeny e'o4derl from the al1l'bc layou ol
the gardens and cafes along the sea fronl
ogeter wlU the coIourful f\owefbeds. the
well socked shops and the modem atre of
the residents

Eight of the grea plane trees. planted urder


Ihe order of Sultan Mehme after hos
conquesl ollstarbol have bewme hsorical
monuments Ttese trees are 550 years oid
and are prolected by the the Moruments

Al presen yadts be stern o an open


steelwork jetty bJlIt ciose to the salng dub
and fn:m here t iS or/y a shOft walk to the
town c:entre whllfe 8'lerythng can be fOl/rd
Ircluding IMeme cafe, ard ATM The large
open market seiis fr&Sh Iocal produce from
the surrou rdrg oonlryside.
All repars are passble a the ad}llc:eJlt

The Cehennemazi Caves have a


sgnfic:ar place n Anaotian MythoIogy and
can bevisted from E reli Here in ooecave
Hemles caught Cerberos guard of Haes
aOO brought hm o earth and anott\ef had
been convened o a churc:h n Is century AO
by Aodrew OI1e of the apaslles con;;erts
are now held annualll' n tlus c:ave.

shpyards

Green tulls line the bay ard many facl/,tes


are available fOf ounsts as it is wth,n easy
dnvrg ranga of boh Istanbul ard Ankara.
Sprlngs supply the lresh water for the town
and many waerfalls Ile hidden in the nearby
mountains. The beauliful vew !rom Ihe top
of Kaletepe e)(tends inland over the
mourains and to seaward

Assocaton.

of severl
Byutntne forts wtose stones were removed
to buld the Rumeli Foo on the Bosphorus

are. re

the

remans

E leli is famous

for lS special Onoman


strawberries. grown first n the early 19005
by Halil Paa whd hve an oval shape,
whte f1esh and beaubful perfume. Each year
a Strawberry Festval is held on 20~ June
lastng fO!"" 4 days The former palae of Halil
Pasa now houses the arc:heologcal and
ethnographical mooum.

So.:''''1 Glub

: Harbo<J~""'.~ L HeoJih
.) pTT
.. ATM

,'O\D.~I<.U

"

L:!<>b!:r L """ .... ,.,"'~i<e~

s,....o.

Shop'. ",r=

the wter is sometmes ,taned browr from coal washirg

The wesl bay is less subject lo swelL


o

i
o

- .---.-

ILIKSU KOYU
N 41 " 24.75'. E 31 .w .95'
Esily identifed wth dramatc white dffs ard the new road wth s c:onspic:ious relining wall
ard scaning 011 the hll behrd. The arctorage 0"- the shongle beach olten; good swmmrg.

There is lillle MHer from northerly winds

i
,, ,

s ..~
rn-..~",,"~

o Culk.o,..., "'.. ..-.c ,

"r-

wy toZOI1guldak. Unfortunately

on the surroundrg hUs. but a present ~ a


molotary

Ths double bayeast of Erel, wlth steep ctiffs ard caves is a dehghtfullundt me stop on the

cne.

......

."

Mu;"" ....

...

o'

W<>. ..........

--

13 AI. 1'>'10114 eo,..,ii


,... Lt"'} d,'~"'".,

..

bus.os

DEGIRMENAGZI KOYU
N 41 25.6' . E 31 " 43 .2'
Ths bay hdden on approach from the wesl. s a

gem. Good sheer from the prevalrg wind

and ro swell enters. As lhE road runs ck; se to the beact it is popular wh Iocals for pcnc and
swmmong. In settled weather good ovemogt stop in preferenc:e to the busy harbour ol
~uldk..,-_ _ _ _ __

:-;
42

43

ZONGULDAK

ZONGULDAK

On approach Ihellghts on Ihe ends of the breakwaler are easily seen. From the wesl a large
blue bulldirlg whH:t is the hospial Is very conspicoous and below this lies lhe ennnce o Ihe
harbour Ins~ there Is good all rOlJnd shelter

Goal n Turkey was frstlound in 1829 In the


ama of 20nguldak and SIn! that dae has
been rnned and exported lrom Zonguldak
As a result a layerof coal dusl covers all the
qua)lS.

A new f$hing t\arbour iS being construced at KozIu Zonguldak.

The large commercial port t\as

title to

offer
the crusng yadtsman apar! tmm a harbour
waU lo be lo. The harbour is very My "","th
commercal craft and the fCH'"O passenger
services beween Zong.k:fak and RuSS<a
and Ukrane.

trarwg

wall for riYer. North

~. ~I~'" in!istng harbo.r at north

possible. Space limited.

Once ilWay tmm the harbour it is a pleasant


busUng town with uee ~ned sraats ii has
everythirg available "","th a large open a,r
market on Wednesday and Saturelay. Many
banks wth ATM and sev9fallnlernet cales
are spread thro.ghout tt& hilty town.

The land surrounding Zon9uldak iS covered


wh loress which provides exceUent wildlife
lor hunlng which is popolar w\h the oca
residens

AA Important recreational cent,e

15

the

Seven Lakes which 1$ a senes of natural


ponds surrounded by forest:
In 1970 same of Turkeys most spectacula
caves Wefa dscovered dose to ZonguldakThe Cumayan Cave ,s Iamous for !ts length
and s atready open to the public and !he
Gok901 and Soluar caves Idr their
Iravartens Ttese taner caves are being
prepared lor \OIJrslS.

Local

handcralts ndooe mref'S lamps

and statues and beaulifully carved walking


sleks,

A pleasanl wal!, s along Iha harboursde


pasllhe Governmanl buldngs o the smail
fishing harbour where a reproduction of an
ancenlshp iS moored. Many cafes Ine this
area.

passports .

,
N

... ' ... 1 ...

"
e ... ...
,,~.~
~

......-

- :so...:. ~ s..,.
Lb ....
~

ZONGULDAK

<lu

e,': d

'.
j&

efi-

N 41 " 27.6' : E 31 46.8:

45

KEDI ADAS KOYU

OOGANClLAR

N 41" 36.7' : E 32"09.15'

N 41 31 .5': E 31 53.7'
The breakwaters of this harbourunemeath
c power s\aton wlh red and white banded
chimneys are very OOVIOUS Inside !here s a
line of red booys bul lhese did not CIOSe the
harbour. Thefe s eeellElnt shelter InSIde.
Coold be used n an emergency bul it is a
priYae harbour belongng to the power
station

pop.lar

Anolher pleasanl stop al a bay

Wlth

toIldaymakers.

.....
"
~p '
F\

t l.

o '

~"

'O-."~~

t _________
'-"
__--________

HlSARSN
iii 41 " 33.15': E32" 01 .1'
In the bay of Hisarsoou is ii P'Qf conslJUcled of concrele on top of steel ~Ies whch 1$ no
sutable for yachs The bay is LLS an archor.ge in settled weather _ ~___________ ,

,'+- .

f..-f
..

. .

GZELCEHISAR KOYU
N 41 38.0' : E 32" 10.62 '

"

Wrth sand beades and ba;ked by Cfs and a sman viIIage the bay offers good prolection
from rorthea st winds.

KAPAN BU RNU KOYU

C.
" ,I
A

N 41"35.9': E 32"01.2"
At open bay wlth

pleasaot beach Iorshort stop in setled weather

,,

., ,
,

,.

"

0'0

..

t.....,.-'-

47

BARTIN

TARlAAGZI KOYU

GPS pO$ ll lon ol l h, $oulh br, akwal,r i N 41 41 .15': E 32" 13.5' wh ich lleNU for enry

A smail narbom offering perfect sheer n altreclve surroundngs. The breakwater was
being quayed in 200 1. The Islet a\ Ihe nonhem end ol the bsy tls s rock jusl awash the
lenglh ol the islet aif ii.

lo r lvero r harbo ur.


Many

shps

are often anchored outsKle the


commeroal and m~lary narbour of Bartin.
There is no room fO( yachs in this narbour
Bartn

river offers a diversion to open


sea cruising If the yacht Is not restricted by
the overhead cabln whlct CtOSS the r1ver a
s.hon distance InslOe the mouh The man
WIr&S are 26m above water !eve! bul lhe
loINer ll8Wer cable is ofy an &Slrnaled 14m

The

abovewae'leve

Wilh

souhw$stef'ly wnds

If unable lo pasS under the wires and I is


essen!ial lo sop conact Sahil GUvenlik on
VH F 16 or 69 for pennlsson o lie a their

""""

The town of Bartin is famo.s for its Women's


Mar1cet heid on Tuesday and Friday wtere
te a femate sales foroe offer home rnade
bread and unusuallems otoca prociuee

_.

There are many wooden onoman houses


and mosques ol hstoncalntereslng n the
a heavy sea

bulds up a the enrance bulonce urder the


wr" nver crul$lng beg'f\S

once unOer the wres s yacht can cruse


1.5nM up the nver to the archorage a the
bndge or te slongs-de s moored boat The
lown is abou\ 5km from here The deplhs in
Ihe "ver whch w,ods beIWeen treellntd
banks are mnmum of 3m bul Ihs depends
on the amounl of rsn and seaso olthe year

,.

are readily avalable and banks


Wlth ATM are spread through ths prOVlncal

ProvlSIOflS

cap!ai.

can be YISiLtd from Antasra or


Zonguldak by dolmu.
Bartn

TARLAA(izl KOYU

N 41 43.5' : E 32 20.2'

BARTIN RIVER
BARTIN

48

N 41 41 .1 5': E 32 13.5'

49

AMASRA

AMASRA

The promnenl headland LS easly seen. The ancient hartour s on the westem approad bul
ths LS 100 exposed and il Large commeroal and mllary hartourgwes shelter on the east sde

Amasra s an ancent towr preV10UslY known


as Sesamos In Roman tmes the castte.
theare and baths were built The town has
had many differenl places n hIStory, an
Importanl miltay nstallaton , an expon
centre for tmber, lur and slaves, and at one
tme a smail iodependeflt klngdom it was
alsa a famous cty wth lls ow bishoop, casUe

oftepennsula

Due to the size of the harbout and the nigh time south east winds t is bette!' to aodor o" as
an unpleasant surge bulds up at !he quay In day tme the quay s comfotable

ardchurd.

busy wth

fistng

boals.

Later t became a Genoese ooIony. the


Genoese eross and coa of arms can be
sean on many part of the cty wa lls
Rama ins of all these faces can be seen
today scattere<! hmugtoJ the own or n the
Archeological Museum
Due lo the fine beaehes Amasra 1$ now a
popular holiday resort. The dean tead
insde the hatour is the base of !he Iocal
saihng club where vstors are mosl weioome
lo showeror eal at the smaUcafe.

Several days are required to explore


Amasra as the<e 15 so much lo see. Walking
through the town and across the bridge to
the old own the number of arc!en anilacs
is

suprisrlg:

a plaque carved Into a wall,

roman ardes,
houses.

founains.

walls and old

Bul Arnasra s nol aLi hiStory, the streels in


the own centre are line<! wth shops and one
street has been gver over to shops selhng
items caNe<! from wood. The bowis carved
from a $OI(! poece of wood make good
presents. the type of wood an be specified
and the bowi carved to orOer.
In addition
there are shaps o supply the daily need
togetherWlth ATM and Intemet cafes.
Fish restauranlS abound and same are
tastenlly bum ou over the water at the
easlem bay. In addiloo baSiC Turkish foad
is seNed in smail cafes near the harbour
CIose lo the Museum Iocal women set up a
market
on Tuesdays and Frdays .
homemade Items and same unusuat tems
of produce can be purchasad
FromAmasra it is po$~bIe to vSlBartu and
The town of
Safronbolu by dOImOj:
Safronbolu is weD woth a VI$II. some 150
houses const,tute the mO$t famous
SUMYing coIlect>oo ol Ottoman arch,tecture
in Turkey. The Tounng Club of Turkey has
pioneered same resioralon that has been
very weLL done. Some ollhe build'ngs are
now hotels and olher museums. As well as
houses there s a large public bath complex
and caravansera. The lawn is lull of walled
gardens and smail lanes and is a beaulilul
placo lo vsrt..

1
.,

/.

O
' --_ _ _

.!-

... . :0;

AMASRA

50


N 41 44.9' : E 3r 23.9'

51

TURKEY SECTION 2

Turkev Section 2 Amo.ro to BofroBurnu

PASSAGE NOTES AMASRA TO BAFRA BURNU

From AmaSfa

,. '}P~bg

z.,- - - -

rortheast

publcised bay of Gadaros

.- /
t,

bu

Thcre are good harbours al Kuracailc and


Cide, !tus tatter Iyng a the end oLa YfJfY iong
sandy bay in what is OlI'efWise acMI' faeed
coast. bul also a number of aochorages
ncludng the weLL known and much

dire:tion

:;oastlne begns n il

bends to east
oortheast to Kerempe Burnu, LFI 2Os,after
45nM.

,
1

te

Alter Cide !he nexl h.afbour 1$ east of


Ke-empe Burnu at Doanyurt about 25nM

dstan\.

v_z

Eastwards ol Kerempe Burnu the roastlne


becomes genernlly "alter and has good
harbours alorg the next 45nM to Usa
Burnu. FI Ss, wth the excellen harboor ol
ayll~lu onthe eastside.

:r

- ,~
-

,,

] .~

~ "

J
~

From Usta Burnu il large bay thalaften has c


swell , sweeps up lo Ince Burun, GpFI (4)
20s, the mosl northerty pojn! of Turkey. in
the most southerly part of the bay there is a
rock !>ank, Baheli Kayalari belween E 34
41' and E 34" 44' extendrg l rM offshore
and dfficult to see. A1lhoogh weLL awayfrom
Ihe drect ro..te t could be a hazard when
beaMg.
There are magnficen sand beaches south
of the headland aad n easterly (comrnor)
wnds !hore seems good she!tr do se
IIlshore a1ttough the darts lack soundrg15

--

The headland is seep with rnany


tdentalOlls two of whid form the attraclive
anchorages of Hamsilos aad Aklimar.
There tS Iher a k:w reck of land over whid
the towr of Snop can be seer before the
tgh promonttwy endrg m BoZlepe Burnu
Gp FI (2) 15s. whch must be rounded lo
read the harbour of Snop.
LS ro seeure hartovr between
ytOOlu and Snop, a passage of 4OnM.

There

"
!_
3n...,.,_
_ il

same underwater rocb and one 1rn high


extend 100m northeasl of the headland
These are rot shown on Turtust Chart no.
122. The wnds are usua.y eotrary here
bIowrg 00fth on the eas scte. east 00 the
north side. and southeas anel" readirg the
easem and There iS alsa a sgrufcant
current of up o t kno fIowrg wth the wmd .
Neediess to say when gong m the other
orecron lhe wind5 WIIL be in the opposte
direction on that day.

The tand baeking the bay from Snop lo


Bafra Bumu iS very k:w Iymg. wth exeellent
harbours at Gerze and Yakaken\.
Th s
18l'Iie land Is the sart of the tobacco growing
area of Turkey

tt is difflcult o distngulsh the nortt point of


Bafra Bumu and, particularly on a night
passage note tha the lighthouse, F1.5s
25m 20M bes almost tnM southwest of
the point Also refw to passage noles for

-,

It"'?lf a./... .nr.t

"

.~

! , ~

1
52

'. j J
~ A!,1 ~" ~
..g.
~

-i

- .3.

SAFRANBOLU
53

AKRAZKOYU
N 41 47.0' ; E 32" 28.85'
This smail bay open only \o the noM has a
sandy beach and an otmous river nnning
Ino lt. on approach from the wes the
dangerous rocks shown on Turl,;ish chart
i 21 are not as eenSlve or as far olf shore

ATAlKAYA KOYU
N 41 48.7' : E32" 32.5'
Amongs

the tree covered hlls and 10nM


from Amasra lies the deserted bay of
ata lkaya and dose by the bay of Cambu
Bolh of these vef)' smi liar bays have
sandy beades and are open only o the
nortt oftering good daytime anchorages

j

o
, ,

-, -.. - s__

~-'"

CAMBU KOYU
N 41 49.85' : E

3-

,:: ".

N 41 6 48.1': e 32" 30,01 '


Alter raundng Dkili Burnu from the west a
dellghlfu nlet appears. ThS is no dear on
chart 121 becaU$EI of the seale, AI the
entranee Ihere 15 a spectacular areh in the
d ffs and onee nside sheer from Ihe swell
wl''ch from the shape of the shorelire
appears normal,
Clear water, isolated
surroundngs and a beach complee the
perfect pcture. on the wes! &ide of the bay
iS an let wt the nns of a crane on it
ndiaung tha once this had been a
(;(II11ITIecal spol.

j
TEKKENU
N 41 6 49.8" : E 32" 40.5'
wth light indicates a large
hatxur but unfortunaely th s haboor can
only be recommended for il yad wlth draft
of less than 1 m. The swell a the entanoels

The breakwalef

N
--S.

ve/)' noticeable even on a day w,t ro sweii


a se<!
The bre akwaters have been

and from the sile of te fishog


boats nside there is probably at tmes il
dredged channet.
Even loIIowing the lead of a Iocal fishng tIOal
Olwra was nol able lo enter

The bead is line<! w,th wooden belas


being buill as here iS an area fa~ for
the bu ~ing ol wooden eralt.

-1

,.

exended

54

37.2'

:
DIKlUKOYU

"'
"
---,.-

'

55

KURUCAllE

-_.
After

roundng Kuracale

Burnu from the west the bfeakwaters and smail tawn come

rto

KURUCAllE

The large dean harbour is oneof the few Black Sea towns where wooden fishng boats are
bul\.

Every comer and garden has a boat Under ooostrucloo and tht freodly craftsmen
welcome visitors into their workstops Many of the smaer boats are built for e)lport and
there was a IorTyIoad prepared for the journey to Hollard where they are n great demand.
In \he smail hdl)' town \here s a SVrpl'lslng number of shops ircluding an ATM and Internet
cafe spread along \he ma,n ooast road Several small restaurens serve the needs of

tr.""",

Burnu, LFI.3s. 41m.


and west

Thers a pleasant w alll

The harbour
he

LS

through the towr Lo the lghttouse set on a grassy slope.

an extremely plea$ant and $afe place w,th deep water and a good quay

10

agast.

to andor.

.. f' TT
&

"'T,~\

: "'""'" v~...w.
tt

~~ ~

ii: """'- ...... ....o

-,""'' ' - '"',

,-

.,,~. e ~

_.~

"'-

, ,..1,"'

-~

""'L>~~

KURUAIlE

56

.
,

N 41 50.9' : E 3r 43.6'

57

GAIOAROS

GAIOAROS

Ths

natural bay also known as Sulluca


Lman andAydnkoy has provded sh e ero
crusng ~essels for hundreds of years.
To the wesl of Tosun Burnu l tS denlfied by
a 1m. white post on the eastem entrance.

A rock wth iess than 2 metre over it is


reported n the wes half of the entrance but
the least deplh Okura found was 4 2m
however i( s prudef to stay dose to the
eastem poInt whict is dean
The h.arboor has many rocks whc:h resind
the swlnging room bul it i!i possibie to be lo
convenlent posts on the rocks
In Cillm
weather the rocks can be sean through !he
dearwater

In westerty wnd s a swell sets n and then the


weslem SoIde of the bay is preferred bul the
shallows are more e~ans~e here. A
resla uran on this Slde has bult a pleasan!
temce aOO from a lardng stage a path
leadsupto the man road.

on the e3slem comer OL the bay !here s a


larger restauran aiso wh a lerrace and
sman quay, Thts is popuIar Wlth kx;al
tra~'e'BfS for tish dinners. The owner of ths
restaant WiI oflen rrm out to the yactlO
II1vite !hem sslore or oIfer assistance 111 sny
~Y

by greenery and roIlng hllls it is


il delightful place in which to spend the nght
11 conditions iillaw
Surrourded

1
c "'-

-'
, -\ .

~ .,.

"~

~".

... -,

..........

........

-{, -r, ""\' ~+,s

i)

..

-. +.,.- -.
T ,.

"\ '.. _ . -'

\J
os"

. ~paot_ ...

\6

_._

,..,shou ... ,,~

-- ---'"
o ,

_._~:

'"

"t

++
'+ ..;

~t

,
.

. ' -'

GAIOAROS

58

N 41 ~ 51 .8' : E 32" 51 .5'

59

e l DE

elDE

The rollog green hills gve way lo flalter land and at the SOO of a lorg saOOy beaet the fishirg
harbour of CIde is suated. From the wesls easly seer bul from the east hdder urtl rourd
Kpekkaya Bumu,

The large harbour of Cde provdes excellert


sheker in spaClOUS surroundngs.
A small reS!auranllocaled on Ihe Quayside
sarves simple fsh meals bul for supplies a
walk lowards the lown LS necessary Above
the harbour on the hllsde many new houses
have been built.

The water LS ths bay s silallOW, droppng o Bm, off\he harbour entrance As a resut! oflhs
change n depth the eolfance mav be dSlurbed brt onca Im;K!e \herss perfed ;het!9f,

on eoenng lhe deapes waer is a the OUler bleakwaler as Itefe 's a tendency of sltng

Ctose by the eXl! from the hartour, pas the


SPOrIS par1\.. lhere is a sman supennarket
and saveral more cafes bul the mar ViI8ge
s 2km mlard from the sea From the Iown
hall and ncomplete h(el head irland for the
mao sIoppirg street

I LS a pleasar walk alorg a road hned wlh


houses standlog In ~rge gardens LO reaet
the shopplog araa Here aLi upples can be
found ogalher with an Intemel cafe and

ATM
Market day Is Fnday when everyooe comes
InIO own TaXls are read~y avalable lo
trarspo supples back Lo the tarbour,
frerdly and on
seerg a yact n the harbour 'Nill vis\ Lo

The

lown~le are

practce ther
amVlrg

ar

very

Enghsh,
ther

The young boys

bikes are particular1y

Inl8fssled r te yachts
In the eveorg Iocals come lo fish ir the
harbour wth the complete family so a stay
here iS rever botirg

YUKARI MEScrr
N 42" 10.3': E 33"21.4'

This harbour Iyog 1.30M east of Kerempe Br appears abandoned afler aeatog the
breakwaters. The eotrance faces WNW and offers no prolectJon from NW wods but may
provide shelter from a NE wnd rf essensal ar this exposed secton of coast.

"

C IDE

60

N 41 54,1' ; E 32" 58.8'

YUKARI MESCIT

N 42- '0.3": E 33- 21 .4'

61

i
i

DaGANYURT
Doganyun harbour Is well proeced from !he north and west lt is built under the shelter ol
high cllffs to the wes and ol good breakwler o Ihe rorth. The entranee is $hallow bu
ooce Inside there is good deplh As Ihe quay is usually occuped by ol cocster it is best to

,O<ho<

the wesl end of the

tart:;:u.

Rock3

~:::~~:~~~.;~~:j::ChMO'~I~~
breakwaer

This smail tradltlonal harbour and Yllage


has expanded to Nye the usual rash ol
modem houses cIose o the harbour and
main road nere are several modem stops
bul ro ATM or Internet call!!
Clase o the harbour 15 a smail squr
surrounded by wooden houses and
buildngs. a remndElf oftow Ihe vIIage

for maxim.m

bul note

ol all knds
illlI avilable and the bak8fS produce
especially tasty bread. Ma1lel day s Fnday
when Ihe whole viiage comes al ive.
Iooked in the

pas.

dept

ProVlSlOOS

Jusl acmss the brdge over Ihe nver 15 a


:onvenien fuei station whe dissel mav be
purehased

,
,

...;~_

'.
J

DoGANYURT

.,.

,.,."..,.

....

n~

of

~ .. bO<N C ~\ , .. " v

DO~ ANYURT

62

N 42 00.5' ; E 33 27.75'
63

INEBOLU

INEBOLU

On passage o Inebolu from the westa harbour is under constructon a Long 33 37 .05
with entrance allhe eas end No details are known ol this harbour

AmVlng III the harbour overlaoked by the


coIourful Otloman houses on the chff top
Illere iS no ndcation ol the very attraCllve
and welllooked alter lown ofl the other slde
ofthehill

The

breakwaers

of Inebolu are easily


harbour lTOn lhe west

sean protruding from the heooland

1Ia! shelers

the

The harbour inSIde 1$ ~ery large and yadlts have a ChOK;e of stopping places aCo;ordng lo the
wind or altematvety anctor n black s\Jcky mud olf the S!Tl<ID boatyard see ;hart of hartou(
The harbour has b ee"i modfied III reoeol years partcularty the large southem quay
Allllough lIefe is some comnercai tral\'ic the water in the hartxt."s vey dean.

MosI provisions are available and !here is a


large markel heid near the mersde ofl
Tuesday and Fridays
There are severat
banks witt ATM and an Internet cafe

There are many

restau"i1ll1S servng oea

lood ol a hogh standard


around the town and dbng the
hiM to ove1ook tha harbour many old but
restoed houses ca bu seen,
~e
houses pamed vanous coIours add to the
beautyofthetown.
Walkng

aIongs.ide B
l.a"ge shlps use itliS harbour.

Inebolu is an excelkm walkng centre as


many smail unsurfaced roads climb Ille hlls
aOO valleys around the bay. Walking east
along Ihe main road a nined Geroese
castle can be visled as well as enjoyng the
views ol the sea below.

.,

The harbour is a safe place lo leave a yachl


for a visillo Kastamonu byoomu Theygo
regularty from the bus stallon on the river
side taking about 1 Y. hours. The joumey
alone is worth the trip. II tme S limted a
sho1. tnp lo Kijra is recommened o 8IljOy
the besI of the scenery on roua
if
conbnung lo Kastamonu taka same warm
ciottes as the town iS stuated al L000m
and the emperature 15 vastly dfferent from
Inebolu.

House iS an mpressve
buldng and t was lfI fronl of \tu$ bulding
thal Ataturk made hl$ histone speed
baonng the lez lfI 1925. The museum has a
coIlecuon of Roman and Byzartne relcs
agether .,.th the Ataurk Saloru where
!here are ptoos of the 1925 w.t of AtatUrk
weanng his hal wth the uptumed brim,

The

,.

Govemmen

A CasUe perched on the hilltop adds lo the


beauty ollhe ow The walk lo this Kale
takes some time bul ofl H dear day the view
makasllWOl1hwhila

===0___ ",-_
INEBOLU

The approach o Kastamonu by bus is


dismal wil h many high rise buildings. The
oobus sation Is dose o the Icwn centre.
Bel()(e leaving book a ticket fOf the relurn
bus
The clty cenlre is lacad with old
buildings Including the mosque buil! 1273.
the balhs bul! 1262. the Onoman mosque
buill 1503 In addliOn !here is a variety of
medreses bEldesen$ and hans.
it S well worth seeong!heold buldngs many
of whCh have b eer adapted for modem use
and are n e.ceUent c:ondton.

The spedalllas ol Ihe Iown appeared lo be


swee iams and eheeses Many shops seli
candied fnl and cheeses Irom aLi over
Turlley

N 41 58.9': E 33 46.4'
KASTAM ONU

64

65

GEMICiltR:

YAKAREN

This Is known as lhe fishermans harboor for lnelxtu. The outer breakwaler has been
severely damagad IInd the rocks from ii ereille a hazard in the entr.nce II s sutable only as a
falrweather anchorage.

A new harboor under consructon In 2001 lls poSitlOn under Yaka Burnu mak.es for
excellent sheller bul ii may suffer downdraught gusts n strong NE winds.
The presenl depth al entrance of 2.3m 'Nill hopefully be dredged

on approach the breilkwaters are easity seen Iogether Wllh a buildlng alsa undor
constructron.
Okura was drecl.ed not to enter bocause of the consn.con IIIOI. in prograss on that day
bn alreacty the harbour is sutrcenlly complete to ofI"er shelter

. ..+~ /~~T
_~~

::"""... .....n
(oo"'l"'''.)

GEMICILER

N 41 ' 58.5 ; E 33" 53.6

l-

LI ,..,

""',

-,

0"
YAKAREN

66

_-:;.;----=-

N 41 ' 58.7'; E 33" 57.75'


67

ABANA

ABANA

The breakwaters are easly seen on the east oIlhe town at tlle end olthe shore developmet
As a resu~ of storm damage and sttng entry oIthe hartour requres care.

A pleasant walk aloog \he wasde gardens


Jeads from \he hartour to the vIIage ;:enlre.
In summer the bead iS very b.sy wth
holidaymakers from the beadslde dales.

$ome charts and bootu show I'OCI.s NE ol the


noorporated n the breakwaer eltleoSlOOS.

berd

in the breakwaler bul these ha~e been

A stationery shop sells Kodak film, the first


sl!'lCe Istanbul although other makes have
been available

ALI pro~ISIOflS are on sale and a Iocal market

The harbour iS v6f'/ sheered but becauw of the many fishng boats maonngs around the
edges of the harbour anchoong is recommended.

appr08h to hartour. Thefe are il number


beIOW water mcks and one awash rock off the
and IIlSde the northern breakwater A sandbar
shaRow water extend from the nner
. A submerged wrek wth the up ol the
showng enends 30m from the eastem end ol

TIle shops seli a selecton ol Iocal goods


such as Abana yoghurt and brown bread In
addition arother Iocal specalty s cecream
of various l\avours made ~ the form of a
dner served as a kebab beween waler

"""""

takes pta;:e n the v.Uage $Quare most days


Thefe is a bank wth ATM and an Intemet
cafe The attractve wooden kosks
tousng smail restauranlS emphasze thal
!hs s a hoIday area.

i
,

J. ..,..1........

-i

i
ABANA

.8

.L

- - ,.
,

N 41" 59.1' : E 34" 01.4'

69

KONAKU LIMAN
AI SO k nown as ATALZEYTIN LIMAN

The large bl'eakwaers wlth Ilghs on the erd are easity seen,

The hartour shelered from the west by eIi"s ard from !he north by a large breakwater s
excellent wth good depths of dean water

Approachmg the harbout the swetl begns due lo the rapd decrease in depth of waer to am
bul t dsappears ooce Inside bul there s always a vllfY slight movemool

The quays are co..ered """th motor iyre$ and !here are plenty of boIlards and nngs to he Lo on
the quay and !here s pleoty of room lo and..:r
Then:

is lighOng along the qu<y on the

I\art:our waa.

'.

"

'.

In approach

on approach lo harbour

-~

2Om.

breakwaler on entemlg harbour

- --

-..

N 41- 57.85' : E 34 10.3'

KONAKU LIMAN

,
windl.

TRKELI
N 41 " 56.85': E 34 20.'
Water can be obtaned from the flannem; cottages Kaslic; viiiage is bu~ on the hll above
the large hartourofKonakll. The sormundng countryside is beautful Great walk'ng area n
the roIling 111115 atove the andorage.

The ad)l:cen teach has c cafe anel showers oper in season bul the man LOWIL of atalzeyn
is 4km Bway The mam 10WfL has aLi provisions along its s!np development.

West ol Ayandon Bumu s a smail hartour called TOri:eli wlh a sh3110w Bfltrance. The
enlrance ls dlscoloured by watef Irom the adjacent rlV8f and the fiow from the river produces a
swell al te entmnce
Okura dd not enler bul was nformed !halil was used by a yactt wth 1.2m dralt emering
cIose LO the brcakwater.
IS~

. -....
TORKELI

70

N 41 - 56.85' ; E 34" 20.'

71

AYlIOGlU
The harbour Ol ayloglu s proleeted lrom the wesl by Usta Burnu and Irom the easlthe
d"s above lhe harbour are eonspl(:uous
The quay s smooth and has pleoty of ~Iards bVI lhere is ofIen some mavement from the
sea. A pe1ect arcloftge can be found n the south comer ol the harbour n good holdng ol

m'"

\he hartour. Anchor as COI1'<elW!l"lI.

AYLlOGLU
Here s an anchoage for those who enjoy
the smple thngs of life. No main roads
nearby, no holiday crowds. no
conmefclallsm lus! a qulet spo surrounded
bygreenery
Ashore there Is a sma lt viIIage wlth many
tradillonal wooden houses blJll amongs Ihe
troos and hillsides
A walk &Iong Ihe
narrow !taeks that wrd their way between
\he tlouses gves a taste ol lle on \he Btack
Sea coast a.d demonstrtes the dfficulty of

makng lvng n wch surroundngs.

The man employment iS fshng ilM smail


lafTTl$ ogelher wth ii Ijsh farm reanng
salmon.
on the quaysde is ii very $Imple !ish
restauran and ii spot where \he salmon can
be purhased.
it 15 only n the las foor years that this vllage
has been oonnected to the main road by a
tra(;k sUltable for ca/"S. Before all tratfic was
by boat. Now severat new houses have
been bult aod some of lhe oca services
have disappeared e 9 the pos olfice no
Ionger exlsts Alsa the minare that was
prevlously vlslble Is now becoming
obscured by trees

./---:

, ..

., ,,~-~

r .

c-..,.:e.
( 1 " - -)

,.

. - --

A limited dolmu seviee to Ayanck starts


from \he mosque

Good watkng counry slong the msny paths


in the area wnch spreacl n 1111 drectans.

72

AYLlOGLU

N 41 - 58.0' : E 34- 30.5'

73

HAMSlLOS

AKUMAN

N 42" 04.8' : E 3~ 02.6

Entrilce

The entrance to this cove is O.5nM N ol


Harns Burnu and can be harc to spot.
approact" a white buildng on the bare
SW headland Ls obvous, the entrarce s to
s!arboard of ths

on

it is a narrow gul olfeong sheltOf from all


winds but east Unlotunately the .....atOf LS
not YOI'Y dear and the shape of the bay
gaters ptastc

refuse.

Nevenheless it iS an altractve ptace to vsi


For best shelter go in as lar as draft and
courage allow The bay s surrounded by
pre trees and a tnp by dnghy up the Jang
narrow gul reveals many WlId IIowers and
water Iilos
In sel1led

weaher

an ovemighl stay iS
posste bu the holdng s no yel'}' good.
Sloes and f the wnd iums to the &ast 8
SWeI enlers makrg exldffcutt

N 42" 03.

The entranca

O~'

: E 3~O 02.9'

tyog

O.6nM south of Hamsl


Bumu s marked by the Ighl stn.cture at the
entraflC6. Andorage iS possible in the
auler bay or !here is room lor t boat to te
stern lo the eny a the lighl saa state

Anctonng

aif the sandy beades is alsa


t aVOlds regotatng the shallows

possble.
ntothepool.

The leadng

loe

into the pooi- wooden


electrc poie in centre of white notlce may
be ebberate or Jus canvemenl but it

permttrg,

woo<,

For a pefect spot compleely st&flered n


wooded sumudings contnue into the
inrer hartoUf.
Here a fsherman wi
indicate a suitab!e place o arc:hor and te
backtolheferoe.

.
N

,,

~-

0.., '3 's-

HAMSILOS
74

3,

lo

,
'.

"

/'

.t

)~

-,

,.'.

N 42 04.8' : E 3S 02.6'

AKLIMAN

--

N 42 OJ.OS' : E 35 02.9'
75

AKlMAN

A httle bit of heaven In the Black Sea ThiS


natural anchorage surrounded by rees w,th
naarby beactes and good walkng lt is the
home of many smail fshng boats with
fr1endly fislermen

The water in Ille bay is very elear and wth


te goide sand beaches and pne lrees ii iS
ol perlect $pOt
Wth the dnghy and
outboard the ot!iyng istand and caves can

The road at the end of the bay leads south lo


Sinop and north lo the park above Hamsilos
ardorage
About tkin. AIOng the road lo
Snop there LS a smail shop and \wl) ca fes

APPROACHES TO SINOP

The large buldng on ths road iS a sludens


home in winler but III te holiday season 8 5
slar hoteL. Buses from here 90 to Sinop
wlich makes the anchorage an awactlve
aitemailve to the harhour in Snop

-~

,
'i

z.

be e:<pIored
wllere Iocal iood

..,,""
pocnc

res

"

The bay is part of a Natonal Park and at the

entrance to thl!. there

;;, .."p.
.)

.~

is ii smail restaurant

,1

,c

served V adacent
1ttrat1s daytlme VlSII()f$ Lo

.8J!

"
,....

V
j'ir

"i

ol

o-

a
,.z

-,
"i

76

77

SI NOP
The 200m hlgh penins.le ending n Boztepe Burnu, wlh the lormer communicatlon domes
on the hilltop, Is OO<lSj>lCUous. After roundng Boztepe Burnu the town and harbour walls are
vlsible
There is dear passage beween Bozlepe Burnu and the istel Gaziooy Kayasl of! it.
Ayadil quay haS been bult ciose o the Snop Sailing Club but n is exposed to sooherfy wndS
and any sweli makes rt uncomfOftable and in strooger wnds dangerous A new breakwaer iS
PfOPOSQd to sheIIer ths rea but work has not yet commerced.
A yacht should . unbl thIS is compIeted. head for the lishng hartout and te alongs.de ii
converwent lishng boai The harbour is alwys c ouded but llSUaly a space WI_ be mde for
a .... llrg yactt Here !here iS perlect ste!tl!f
The decayng shps ~ng at the entrance ara beng removed so rnore space wn beoome
avalable but the rock In the middle ol \ho cntranca channet rema,ns. Ths rock iS patt of the
anoentCltywans.
Several IuIorretres from Sinop lIeS the Sanay , ot induslrial arsa, and here all types of
repars can be undertaken Wot1Ishops of at( !Unds are tualed here and most lems can
be fabncated if not in stock

southem shore of the


2OOm.offshore.

. ..

, moor as
Nate rock with less than 1.5m. m
. T o clear this koop very clase
listng boats moored to tha~

..

..
...
s

the quay.
Snop Sa"' g Club. AIIOId

A Fdo.""l ..... - .
B '(-.e'-'

5Om.of the wesl and of ths quay and do not


into the smal atea

furtter

I bOOur. exposed lo south and

Hartoxmaster ,

78

<! 50...". ,/""".

wesl.
eas.

R'.T.

;:

1!<U:.<:~

c...~

F ~r~("''1'~'''''''' '' ,... .. ec".t


LO ,"'......,...
/lo. .... d;'jO>i w.. .. ~"
-~"' ~.
:::". ........ r
o """ cff"''"

...

J .....-.....,
. ~~

....

p t"':.. "",~.bo>.~
cil ~:;:~ T~i

__
..

SINOP

N 41 - 01.3' : E 35 08.1'

79

SINOP
Snop 15

one of the most

beautful natural

harbours n the Black Sea coasl of Tu1ley


The cty lounded n S' century BC was called
Sinope afler an Amazon queen and later

beeame Snop.
The harbour 15 suated dosa lo the town
centre making it a most convemanl stop,
The road from the sea$18 dmbs to the town
canre roundabout and
the provincal
governmen headquart8fS. Here the sl.za ol
Snop can be 8ppnilQated. Roads fan out n
all directlons traffil; s heavy.lacals go about
the1r everyday Mlness and stops of every

type line the pavaments Undemeath the


roundabout is a useltl sopermarket entered
by st.alrs on the pavement Modem stops
are ml.ed Wlth old wooden houses The
Alaaddin Mosque. t3 cenlury. wlth lls 5
dames and hgh walls sorrourding alarge
coortyard is unavOldable In the man street
There are many banks Wlth ATM and
Internet cal"
In the square off the man
slreet there iS a ~ery large marke every
Monday and Thursday.
R

Along Ihe waterslde a the harbour sevemi


open air restaurants have bul~ terraees out
over tte sea making them an attraetve spot
for a meal. In thsold area of the town is the
al'lCl!ln! hamam and across form t a laundry
whct does washes by the klo. Snop ts
known lor its woodcraflsmen who specialize
n model ships and several shops sellng
lher wares ile in ths arsa together wlth
many Iocanta seltiflg IocaIlood. A speealty
iS the open barbewe buit nto a table where
the food is ooohd by the customer. callad a

~~A new promenade has been bul! by the sea


leadlng o the Satrg Club and this is bao;:t.ed
by well kep! 9<Jrdens The road behind 1hs
contans more stops, cal" and several
Internel cafes.

The castle above the harbour and lls waDs


mary ol whch stll exst were bult n 72 BC.
There is an attractve tearaom on the top ol
the tower Wlth excellen vlews over the
harbour and bay

80

The anden! prson now closed. and


previously pari ol the CIladel. is being
converted lo a Hentage Cenlre.
The Museum in the town centre has WOrM
<!iscovered dunrg excavatons in Sinop and
its surrounds The coilection covers the
history of Sinop form the Bronze Age Lo the
Turkish War of Independence one salon
contans icons a remder of the me that
OItaman Greeks populated this area In the
garden s alarge mosaic and the rulll$ of the
lemple of Sempis.

the hillside above the many new


houses s the Pasha Bastion buik n the 19~
Century to protect the por! dunng the
Ottoman RUSSlan wars II conssts ol an
arsenal and 11 cannon beds and 15 now
use<! as a nghtdub. In 1853 the R\I5Slans
annhilated the Otoman navy by a surprse
atack on Snop. This starled the Cnmean
war as Britan and Fral'lCEl tooi<. over lhe
fightng from the Ottamar Empre. Mary
salors were drowned and a beauhltl
lounlan was buil! near the harbour In thelr
memory. This lcuntan was financed by Ihe
cons oollec!ed from the drowned sallors
pockets
Hgh

on

CLEAR WATER

Around Sinop thElfe s mUd lor the visitor to


do. The ITIOlJrlans behnd are ree oovered
and oontain many smaIIlakes as well as a
lamous cascade ol waterlalls known &s
EfetekSela!esl ,

A popo!ar bead called Karakum s cradled


in the hamIltr east ol the town and the vast
expanse ol Akkum (Whte sands) eX!endS
for mi!es in the rorthwes. A iagoon and brd
sarctuary adjoins Sarikum beach on the
west of Inceburun.
Mourtars o1135Om. be 35 km southwes ol
Snop and the mountain plateaux Wlth ther
greoo fields and SlJll1l1"l8'r rasdents olrer a
glimpse lOto the tradtional wav of Ille of the
farmers Vsls Lo aLi oltese can be made by
dolmu from Snop_

WOMENS MARKET

Snop alsa has a Treklung CLUt: and a stay in


concde with a trip
organized through Snope Tours In Kibrs
Caddesi_ Vslorsaremostwelcome

the harbour mav

"

GERZE

GERZE

on approad the large breakwaters

blHt in Ihe bayan ethar side ol the old pier ara eaSily

on Ksk Bum is a the roo of the east breakwater


Wo:. s stN n progress placing more large biocks on the breakwaters.
There iS now e_cellen shelter and a yadl can anchor according lo the wnd

seen. The

lghlhouse

II iS necessary lo anchor as the nsde has nol yel been quayed.


The PNIf iS ol no lise o yachs e_cepl laf a smail area in the mddle IMI IS ver}' busy

The

bes dnghy andlng s at the root

of the env on the east sde

Sleep strees lead up from the harbour o the


town centre. These are lined by an unusual
syle of houses with brick tower toors and
coIourful wooden panted upper !UOrftVS
some of wtich canlain Internet cafes and
others sman shops

,ho_

The hub of !he town is a

GiYe and of eastem

.l

:t-r-r

ro

-3

-'TM
c; .........
o lnh:.<-w

7.-,,...'

Df ".

" e .,....;,.
A,. '<IIE

*", -r~_ Ce~ ... N l ' '''

tl

LS well kep wth many lrees


and ir ecfy SUfTVTIBf roses BVef)where. The
Harboumaser welcomes yadts and s
aware of the cotrlbution they can make lo
ounsm in the area so will do anylhing lo

~.H
CC

<\

cC

'.

, ,

<

"

- --,

N 41 47.8': E 35 12.15'

83

82

The WhOIe town

.,

..

streels meet. Two go downh.


bus stabon and several bulchers. one leads
IptU out ol own. and the two other contn.e
on the leve! lo the man shoppng ar83. AI
ths ponllhere iS an ATM. The s&iecton of
shop!; iS very good. partcularly bakers

From the marl<:et sleps lead bad< down


Ihro.gh a wooc:Ied area to the harbo.r
AIOng the shore are nlTlBfOllS tes houses
and cafe,.

.~

GERZE

15m.

where 5
agan o !he

fourta

These roeds flnally amve al a large new


mosque and PTT Tmng righl the markel
place iS (eached where frut and vegetables
ere sotd every dayand alarge martcet held
on Mondays.

C ..

: ""_'""~

..

breal.water

,- , "

,"

The new breakwatars have tmed Gerze


lOto an e.cellenl port of call for crusng
yadts. Pfeviously dile lo the limted wlter
avalable GefZe was aftan by passed by
sailing yadts.
Now t iS a welcome slep between Snop and
Samsn and a very pleasanllOWfl.

YAKAKENT

YAKAKENT

Three large blue lanks confim the posllJOll ol Yakakent wtose breakwaers are easlly
soon.
The outer harbour has S8Veral pens where a yadt can tie a! the ouler and.

The listng harbour is about 3km Irom the


lown wtlch is reached by a watk aH>r"g the
seaside patt or by tte secondary road
leading into the town.
The maJn road
bypassesthetown.

There 1$ noATM but there is an Internet eale


on the seafroot.

Yakakent is at the start of the otaeeo


gmwing area ol TurKey. In &.mmer &Y9(y
spot is ooyered W11h tobaca; dryng on rats
and in !!YefY garden someore 15 sttng
palienlly nrcading the leaves on stnng for

AJ the

Yachts are 00 ionger weicome in the inner harbour ttat is


A yacht mayaso anctor In this outer area

fl

ol fishng yessets

NAVlGAT10N

Dangers

approach

None, bu!

hartour iies in large oper1 shallow ba;i

whch C'" k

make

enlr.nce dil'lict: r

bad

_ _o

GPS pos1tlon ci bteakwater

N4138.5'; E 35"30,7

M::o i g

Tio aIorgsde and of peos in southeast ci

note

""-

r.qxt al erd of pe11 . exceDent inside pens

SHELTER
SERVlCES
Eleclrcty,waler,

and !uel,

The counrySide around is green and fertile


and the harbour is a pleasant stop.
Istrg

harbour there are two small


SOOPS sellng baSC Tu1.ish supplies of
bread, water. s_ts and cgarenes as well
as several restaurants seIlng fist.

d.,."
The Yillage stretches 2km along the
waterfront and in Summer the populclJOll
doubles. A saody beact Ironts the town and
cales line the promenade it is stin YefY
rnuch a country town wilh COWS. hens and
donkays roomng ne streets Smail shops
provide the provsons and the lriendIy
nhabtans make sura that Ihe needs ol the
tounslare me!.

h emergency after agreement wth


Harbourma; ter n roer harbour.

"

o,

YAKAKENT

84

N 41 38.5' : E 35 30.7'

85

TURKEY SECTION 3

Turkey 5ection 3 Bafra Burnu to am Burnu

PASSAGE NOTE S

BAFRA BURNU TO AM BURNU

(Nale!here are numaraus am Burnu-

ths

one LS at E38 38.5')

BAFRABURNU
Bafra Bumu is the outfall of il major nver '

,,

.;

the Kzlrmak causing shallcw5; to develQp


and enend" The araa is not well surveyed
as can be seen from the lirruled sounchngs

(f 14l11fJ ~

on the mart. The stoal water s reported to


extendWg, partcutarty
direcon. the outf\ow of

be

.d

-L-i ~

it s dlficult to dshngu,sh the nortt pom! of


Bafra Burnu and partcular1y on a nght
passage as the kghthouse, FI5s 25m 2OM,
lIes almost tnM south wesl of the potn!.
There LS il tali chimney on the headlancl
further south than the light.

o, ~
~

,
"

o~

.--, .,.
~-

<.., .- m.,

in the """ H,wel


the "ver bnngs

substanMI debns

:-<.

.,

......- '0,

!--'7-

o.u?liq(

In summer the wnd geoerally falls n the


evenng and may become southerty. General
actvce iS tha raundng Bafr.J Burnu LS besI
undertaken al nghl aS there s rotIung to see
and the passage from Soop to Samsun or
Yakakenl to Samsun s 75 or 55nM,
As wth Ince Burnu the daytime wind seerns
o foIlowthe coast a Balra Burnu,
This Is the Cape Ham ofTurkey IIIII

-
~~

' 0]

The wreck show east of Balra Burnu on


some charts has gone.lncir Burnu. Gp Fi
(3) 155, almost IOnM down the east slde
is law lying and difficul o confim when
heading south.

The current s generally west goong around


the headland reachng 1 kno!. The
comimalOn of rregutar boltom. over outfall
and current creates StLOfI steep seat .

BAFRA BURNU Of!wards


IOnM soulh of ncr Burnu 15 the 51"'111
harbour ol Dereky. whch n quJElI sea
condlbons would be an nteresbng ;top 101'
the adveluroos. The dorest soondng is
75m ...... hd iS 1.7nMol'fshore.

Ths 's the

~ nlUng"""":'
!

"-

ol

From Samsun

J~
~

86

-.,.,pu/;p

eastwrds

Civa Burnu .
arother kw-/ying headland 'U a river
mout, has to be rounded. Thellghtlor this.
Gp FI (2) LOS . is west of the pout and
almosl2nM inland. From the west thi5lighl
is almost obscured by roos The ow-lyng
coast continues in an east southeast
drectIOIl pas alt Burnu. FI 5;. and
Tul<.ana Burnu. Gp FI (2) 6s. 011 ..... hlCh
there are rocb. o the large harbour of
nye approxmately 50nM from Samun.

Ioogs/ passages. from

here easlwards goo<l harbours are so dose


together there s a new element ol cruise
plannrg

The

The large town and ioog breakwat6f"S of


Samsun are obvious imm a iong way off
and there are no Iocal hazards.

and of the

coas

ooce more becomes steeper with


clffs and hazlnuts take over imm tobacco.
Hazelnut busties cover every Inch of land
wtlchcan tecultlvated

East of Onye is Fatsa KMezl with Fatsa Bank


ma1d by a lightJouse FI 35. on ils easl
side Yasun Burnu. the , .... deas point of
Fatsa Krfez has nx:ks ofl" t and a 3.5m
patet yi nM rorth of t. one of the few
headlands requnrg care. SweU al this
haadland may exeeej i metre
ehffs
exlend IOf anather 5nM to a headlad called
arn Burnu. (rot the ooe relerred to above )
and then the 008Stfne soflets bul stili
hazalnut covered as t rums south and then
east.

87

Roughly 2nM east s Gresun Adas. unl~. 1nM


offshore. Take e<re flQt to canluse Pa lamut
wth Gresun Adas. The coast then heads
northeast agan to am Bumu.

The nexl major town and harbOlr LS


Gresun, witt a simple approach from !he
wes1. However easl ol Gresun are a very
dangerous isle (really a big rock) and
rocks south ol il known as Palamut Kayas.
Relerto Giresun;n Ihebaok.

The next harbom east ol Giresun is Tirebolu. a


distance 0120nM

SAMSUN SAlLING CLUB


The bfeakwaters of the Commercial Harbour used by very large ships are seen from same
distance The Commercial harbour is qule unsulable for a yacht which should go lo
Samsun Salng Club slualed in the southeast comer ol the harbour and close lo the modem
bulding of the Cenlre for Culture.
Samsun Saihng Club. lounded in 1961 . provides a welcome home to avisiting yacht The
are,] s well sheltered and a yachl can be safely lefl here while explonng Ihe counlryside
Thequayside and area has been dredged t0 4 metres. Thsquay islow. 3OCm. above normal
sea level.
Ancloring is passibl in gooo holding n black smelly mud.
Do not le ave a dlnghy arnal whelher al anchor or alongside.

DEREKY (ERENKY)
Siluated ar Ihe east s,ide ol Bafra Burnu the harbaur Pfovides good sheer bul the approach
iS exposed lo the south and eas.
GPS Posilion ofbreakwater is N 41 " 28.0': E 36" 08.15'
Shallow water e,ends some dislance offslare bulthe fishermen COfifirmed that there were
no oHshare dangers clase to the ertrance wlere Ihe depth is 3m.

The present Sailing Club has loilel and showers and a good dining room and very Iriendly
and helplul slaff and members.
Negotiatiars

are In progress between the Sailing Club and the Cly Councilla take over the
smail Iarbour west of the Commercial harbour aOO tum ii ino the SaHing Club and manna.

A yachl could he alangside a fsling t>oat on the inner breakwater or anchor.


Okura dd not enler whal was a complelely unknown harbour by boat as wnd was SE F6
wth swell olover Im, bul the harbourwas visiled by land as ,t is a good base lo explore the
lagoons and brd reserves of Balra peninsula.
This area known as the aramba Plan is very fe rtle and has woods and la900ns
connecled by carals rich in fsh and birdhle.
Close to the harbom is a smail viIIage wllh shops and a cafe.
harbour mOVBmenl
Then preferable lo

1
,
,
,, ,
"

"

+
,.'
,

- -

DEREKY

88

'

.. .'

N 41 " 28.0': E 36" 08.15 '


89

SAMSUN

This busy port cty has grown conslderably


in the last few years and modem buldngs
have overtaken most of the lradtonal
houses which once linoo the streets .
Sams.n's man dam lo fame was the

_.
,
,

~ y.~.' t';'","

.~

, t...""""'1
""""'.
---Ol... ff-ce
"...,

"" ........ "".

"

--

&:e... e

CO,
~-

:,.....

~),.,~

Oo"", cS

, ,......,
's z..;. .......... .. '"...
, or
,
eo ";.
6<,>1,... ,.,

""-n;"" _ ' "

....
,
" u...,.. """"' . . . ......,......
~

~, 0.,-'-

on

May 19. 1919 to fttOl'glniZe


the oounlfy after lls coIlapse foUowng World
War 1. This was the start of the national
struggle n the War of Independenee

of

S'>. c ,->

Ork",,~

Aatijrk

arrival

The Ataturk Museum, nex to Ihe


ArcheoIogcal Museum con\ains dothes,
photos. books and guns togaiher .... th suh
Jtems as hs portable shavlng kil. personally
stamped cigarenes and ernbrodered
hankerdefs The Ardaeologcal Museum
houses same huge mosacs of the Foor
Seasoos and Thats and Achlles, all n
excellen! condlion

The ma," street runs along the southem


bank of the rver and here the Mosque of
Bayezod r
i

Fortunately the Sailing Club LS only a shon


walk through the oovered market from the
museums and cty centre. The many parks
and the railway line add lo the distanee and
the nshing tralfc on the man road Is

garden,
the adanng tomb are i
s
moch more o see including the Spiral
,",nare Mosque ( 1237). Ihe psyctatnc
Iospial (1308), whld is now reslored and
uSed as the Fire AnGel lery

e",tq '

N.>h(L' ,.,

''1 _-;_ c;..;J. ... ,

The cy ltes In a gorge of the Yeilirmak thal


has cOflstricted
grow h ol modern
developmen In he city oenlre The nothern
bank of the rlver Is oovered wllh a row ol half
,mbefe<! Ottoman houSiIS built belaw the
large rock ombs of te Kings of Pontus_ A
pah leoos up to tho tombs from beh'nd ite
hooses_ one ol whct is opened as a
Museum
High on the h,llsde c ctadel
reached by a twsbng road IOOI<.S down on
the gotge The fortress was rep3lfed by the
Ottomans and agan n 1980 n the interests
of tounsm BeIOW \he ctadel on a ledge 15
an old Russan canoon thal s fire<! dunng
the monlh of Ramadan to mar1\. the erding of

the fas.

arother hazarL.

On the streel parallel to lhe seafront is lhe


Buyuk Holel where
Englisl and other
language newspapers can be purch8sed,
one of the lew places on this coast

In a town ol this size everyihlng can be


Iound and il spares are requred there iS an
excellent Sanayi a shon distance west of the
town.averte

I ls nOt all mosque and od buldings ,


Interasng shops and cales ere spread
through the awn togelher wth en cove red

bazaar
A trip o Amasya makes a great dayout
ard the ;o..rney there and bad iS alsa very
enjoyable

ri\fe{

The variety of restaurants and cafes 's


ureoding and in the Frenct Ouaner some

serve F rendlood

,
N

1
,

-- -

As $amsun has an alfPOCl w,th drecl


connection to Istanbul II LS a good piace to
change ce ... and beng a maor town has a
bus connecton at least once evey day to
every mxrtant lown 11 Turkey.

From hefe il visit LO Amasya. orw: of the most


atractve Anatolia" ctieS. by bus takes only
2V.hour.>,

AMAS YA

SAMSUN
90

--

91

---

UNYE

NYE

On approact a large cemen woO<.s domnates the harbour.

The lawn built amidsl the hazelnu groves


LS 5km from the harbour and has one of Ihe
best markes in the Black Sea The (!aly
markel is huge so the weekly market on
Wednesday musl be enormous. Many
dolmu.es nn into IOwn from the harbour
exil.

Once nsde the harboor and "ed up a one of the pons n the easlem breakwater the cemen
faClory dsappears and surpnsngly!here s 0(1 dusl or O(Ise.

The harbour
bfeakwaer

large. Qu~i and well sheltered. Smail freighters use the quay on the nortt
There s plenty of room lo anchor of! f desired.

A high waR oonceals the main road !hat is reached by a narrow road from the easem
bfeakwater AI the exit of the path from the east end of the harbour there is a mosque and a
smaU shop sellng baslc Turkish Items ofbread. swees and cigaretes

NAVlGATON
Tukana

Dangers in approach

the

Bunu. Fl2.15519m 1OM. 4nM

tatour should

be ;ven a reasonable ofiing.

otherwse no hazards in approach

damage has

wesot

resJIed n rocks iyng

Stotm

off the and of

ALI goods are avalable togaiher wth many


ATM and Intemet eafes. There s the usual
selecbo of restaurnnts in the town and
fancer meals can be had n the cafes along
the sea frOfl!.
nye was the seasde resort fcw the
PeOPIe of Samsun bul now the cement
WOO; has brought prospenty Lo the town
Many o f Ihe old er houses have
dsappoared under modem devekpment

A lerge modem mosqua row forms the


oenterp!ece of the town but tha main square is
IIned wlth taahouses buill above smail shops
and nearby Is the 18~ century lawn hall. MosI

._..

the own the Kale builI on a pinnade to


protect the town by guardng a pass ;nlo the

Behlrd

inleridr is obvious and on the hll atx:ve the


own is a large tea garden from whch there
ere good vews over the town and a wre
$IItOve1t8 ol Alatun..

The peopie of Unye are very Inendly and as


yachts here are l.IfIt(IITLffiO they ~i amve al
the hart:our to 68811 any assstance s needed.
In the bay is a large,etty preY10UsIy used by
freoght~ but t provdes no comiort o a
crusng

yacht.

the northem breakwatef. tl fresh northeast


wncls the sea boilds up ai the antrance
GP~ton

N4107.0' E 37"21.0'
Pens at eas\ and ol hartour or anchor
3.5m.

of breakwater

~oo"
Depth al moonng postion

Very good

SHELTER

all winds.

,
.. ...
3

,
..

s ...

" , ".

r.

1i

. ..

92

...
OJ

FATSA

FATSA

On approach many new breakwaters are vsible bu! ttese are for envronm,ntal protebon of
the Yen Yo and are nol related lo tartours. Fatsa Bank Ies n Fatsa bayand iS ;learty
marked by lts ligtthouse.
Tte breakwalers are Cea"y seeo and two large crcular lanks on the sme by the nortt
breakwater are a good ndlClltor for the tarbour.

The lown of Fatsa is aboul wthn walkng


dstance of the tarboor but a $mal
mnmarkelon the tarbour approa:;h road
can provide basic needs. Across the man
road is a baker which prod.ces the gant
SiZe Ioaves thal are a fealme of ths area.

PrOVlSlOns of all knds are available as well as


ATM and Internet cafe whlch makes Fatsa a
pleasant place tO rest
Many cfe; and
reStaUrants seNe good 1000 and the
specialty tere IS a iorg pece of spedal pina
bread flled wltl cheese or maal known as
latmacun

Fatsa is a lown preparing for tooriss. A


4km. promenade detted with wooden cales
tas been b.nlt out alorg the shore east ol
the tCM'll cetre.

3s 6m 10M

5i1tng

is

On finai
breakwaer tead l00m offing and
tead d the wne' breakwater is
belween Ille rwo tanks theo head in
handrad around the innef breakwaler
... the southem hat of the entranc:e

around the north

brealtwaer

nobng that a seton

r6Ser-oed lor

-~ .

'

H"

New

al modem spoIting
lacltes such as gym. SWlnvl1lng POOI
moutain bike rarlal and health centre
tave bee opeoed" aU to attfac tourisls Lo
the beauth.l sceary n the ra and the
dean sandy beach8s around the own
Iolels

wth

In towr !here iS an apan metalJ81ty dose Lo


a par\( and the attractve buldng of the
Maritime College, now only used for
fsting. From ts area is li LS poS$lble Lo
walk back to the tarboor along the
waterside as far as the river.

The not spr;ngs at Ibca C.:lII be

vsted

dolmu aioog ii IWislg and dmbng

by

road.

worth the bus I1lp alore Lo see the ntand


seeney and the sies where houses are
ed on the hilsidcs

pet'"

Ttere

iS excell&nl !IDorkelling on fatsa bank


and good cn.1Sng Lo the nearby anchorages.
Oub ta5 liendty members who
wll vst the yahl bul lo date only a few
Op~mtSt drghes wtCh are kepl at the
Clubhouse west of the tarboor
The

Yacll

---\

. --.,.
FATS A

N 41 ~ 02.S": E 37' 29.5'


FATSA BANK

94

95

ORDU
The large.etty and ihe bay offer ro shear
LO( yachts bullhe lown is aractve and can
be vI$lled from Falsa.

old

ptotographs

show Ordu as a own of


s\cllely homes bu,l! alorg the slopes of
Boztepe aD witt
a vew ol the sea

BOLAMAN
N 41 01.5': E 3r 36.0'
In a town of ts sze everything can be found
and the rearby valleys and "Ve", ensure
that !he supply of Inil and vegatablas is
fresh daily. RestauranlS 111'\8 the sea fronl
and n the lown !here is food ol evey type
Bu Ordu is

firs! and

foremos a

holiday

Development of !he town as a ouris reso


meant hat many 0/ the houses disappeared
but lorunately ii was realized Ihat the old
houses were interestng lo touriss Now
several have besn restored o Iheir lorner
giofy. one o a beautful hotel another a hgh
class re5taurant and one large house ,n the
own centre lo a museum.

wide sandy beaches and


reehned streets Across the nver from the
old lown many new hotels Ilave been built
togelher wth alarge stad,um. The hill,
around are covered wlh hazelnuts and in
September there 's the Golden Haze/nut
Festival A speat Irea n Ordu is chocotale
coconu candy.

Other house owners have laken the lead


and now many more are beng reoovaled.
The houses wllfe buil! in large gardens and
this adds 5pilCIOUSllI!SS to the town.
The 10I'LT8" Greek Cathedral wtct occupes
a promnent place on the _terfroot and a
one ime "sed as the cty poson s now a
Cultural Cetrl! The photos also show tha
Ihe &ea preVlOUsIy came to the wall around
the cathedral and tha the presen road is on
redamed tand

Bazteps

reSOr\

The hartour of Bolaman wth many Hne Onoman wooden houses s denbfied by its tumbled
and tree covered breakwaters Bolaman Casde consists of a ByzanbnelGenoese lor topped
by an onoman house half of wtlch has been restored. The harbour s very shallow and
allhough targe fish'ng boal$ are moored here theyare able to drag Itvoogh ihe muddy
boItomatfulpower.

wth

the hm behind Ordu, can be


approoded by dotmu on a new road or on
fool by the ancert track. Here there s a very
good mociem restaurant and picne pla:es
arrangect to provde an e_caUent VI8W over
the SUfl'oundng h~ts and valiers

. ,

---'
BOLAMAN

97

96

---

N 4' 02.5': E 37 36.0'

-----

YAlKOY

YAlKY

On the east sde of Fatsa Bay hes the IQvety harbour ol Yahky The breakwatefls buill of dark
slone aod s d;!!lcult to see agaosthe dark shore. II is a fishing Mrbourbut most welcomlrg
lO yaetlls ard a seane beM wll be laund. or Itere is room lo andOf LO the harbour.

The

SUlTOUrdings

of the harbour are IQvely


.... 'ih a treelined square and shady tea
houses away from the main road.

The Yillage s spread along the man road on


00

""" ""'" -~:;j

on a hii behnd YalllWy bearing about

he_'~.~OO,. The """"

has suffered storm damage, g/Ye ii:


5()n, The Imi! of the tumbled rocks
marlred by a yef)' smal buoy

both S>des of the rrver. ThElfe s a etlardler al


the Juncuon of the harbour and mao roads
wth a stock of use/ul bts mostty for the
fishng

boats.

Yal koy is farnous for lls kofte and buses and

slep al the roadside cales o purchase


these to lake away. The cafes seHing lhese
are snnple bul the lood is grea\. There are
mlflllT18rkets, baker and bulchef and a
COI1venenl fuei staton
c:ar;

A vtsit lo Jasons Churd is worthwhile for


the bus ride alone as the c:oastal scenery is
entmoong Dolmues passing Yallk6y
golng easl sop al the road end and iI isonly
a shor! walk o Iho Chufch on the haadland
at Yasun Bumu. In ancient bmes ths was
the s,le of a Temple of Jason dedc:ated lo
Ihe leadef of the Argonauls .

Clear water and My sandy beaetles make


the water inVI'rg This is the place for a
pcnc and $wm Sever;:l smail farms work.
the land around thS point and the farmers
are ~ walcornng The Churd 'S in ruins
bul is said to beng restored some new
houses have beon budl near the cape bul
they ca not deract from the beauty of the

""'.

There are no shop$ neam)' so lake


eveytJng thal LS needed espeaally waer
fordnnklng.

The path from the harbour headflg

wes

leads to a sandy cove where a new hoel is


berg bulh This WL. be conStrucl.ed only of
wood to biend wn !he countysde Alread)'
tte

owner has opened a smail cafe

, ,tO'"" "

,
,/
, /.

.'

...

.......... '
~

_
....

PT.T

eo .. ,(

-,

........

YAlKOy

"""",,,,_d-

-,

, "'""""'"
Fo";""

~
0'- . 5

o - ,

.- -d ~

.u""'-"t

N 43 03.1'; E 3 7 36.6 '

99

MERSIN

KILAN ( PEREMBE)

PEREMBE

The conspicuous breakwalers offer seme sheer o this busy fishing harbour. The lriendly
fishemen weleome yachts to this very lidy dean hartxur wth Kwety dear waler. II is
sFgnfieant that vessets do no remain atongside the quay but after unloading relum to Iheir
moonngs. The broken breakwaler confms the weather that ean occur in ths area and
nformat ion from the Coaslguard was thal waves regular1y broke over the nonh breakwater.
The many moomgs n the harbour make it impracleal for a yachtto anchor

A naturat harbour bustling with fshing toats.


From the north. having rounded am Burnu the breakwalers are not immediately apparent,
bul Ihere are many fish farms whQse toats come lo the harbour lo omoad . A large moSQue
dominates the harbour. The sheller n the harbour is evident from Ihe lrees that grow on the
breakwaler
With many moonngs n the harbour li iSbest to lie alongsde lo avoid fouling a mooring with the
anchor. AI the head of the harbourthere are toatyards.

If bad weather seems mmn nen! it would be prudenl to depart.


The surroundngs are atractive wth a smail mOSQue al the end of the quay and a restaurant,
baker and minimarket neamy.

The bottom is irregular $Oft sand probably as a result of dredgmg but neye; less than 3. Sm.

are no hazards 00 the approach. but thefe are


2-300m east ollhe harbour
targe fishing boats here

1
.'-'.,
' ......
,0

, '

,,,

On the harbour quaysde sa smail area of


tea houses. fish restaurants. chandler
and m nimarket. On the main road by the
mosque is a slall selling Iresh salmon and
other fsh from the fsh lam.

, ..'

f:

Yr

The town of Perembe s 2km east ol the


harbom along the main road and has the
usual shops, eales ATM and Intemet
eafes, and very many bakers, lound n ths
stretch ol lXIasli ne

. i

.v

.1

..

..

KILANU

,i

..

o,,

,
..

,
-- ,
.
, ,

r:~ '

-...:c...,

-.},. ~.-

appear lo

'

-..

N 41 04.8 : E 37" 46.7'

..

MERSIN

100

PEREMBE

N 41 " 07.0': E 37" 46,0 '

101

EFIRlI

{KUMBA I I

The breakwaters ol the recenlly b.ll harbOllr are easily 5000, In 2001 the Ilarbo.r was not
q.ite complee bul waer and electrlcity is being InstIJed on Ihe quay.

EFIRLI
This s one of the hrboors re!eed by .s
asan anctorage beween wallsas Ihere iS
plenly of space and clean waer for

Kumba Yillage s

10 mn.ts by 1001 wes ol

l he harbOllr and here are slveralsmalI shops.


Ord. is 5km. lo the east.

sWlrnmng

The

harbo.r is an excelten

place lo leave ol
yacht n order lo take the b.s to Ord. where
Ihere is no sheltered harbOllr only ol pler
slrelching in10 the bay

The s.rro.ndng countrySlde IS beal1tll.1


and wth many smail roads and pats InlO
the hlls from the oppose sde ollhe man
road !here is m.ct lo explofe When
walkng inland lhe fnendliness oIlhe Iocats
is ovtrwhelmlng as theyare .nused to see
IOretgnef'S In \heir hills
Passing smaU senlemenlS .sually brings
!he otrer oIlea and ~ Is consefed Nde lo

"'"~
N

< , :

.. '

'.

"

"
~~
- r'~ .

-=-. .-c:c == =

EFIRlI

102

.. .

, ...

..

.,' 3,.-

==. _ -=--- =-_ _ c'"C;.EFIRLI

N 41 " 01 ,2' ; E 37" 51 .45'


103

G lYAl (ATAlKAYA)

GlYAl

The breakwaer of ths smaiL fishng harbotr set in the countryside is conspicuous bul Wllh
new houses beog b\ull behnd it WLII beQme pan olaholday development.

From Glyal eastwa rds each harbour


appears to have 115 own dr~dger whlCh
extracts sand from the harbour or nearby lo
selI. As a resull the quay' are no avalable
lo other vessels.

Further along the coast there s a very large


breakwater extendog nto the sea and then
another breakwaer. The iong lerm pra;ec
iS to fill beween these breakwaters creatng
an airstrip.

A large restaurant serves Hsh maal! Lo


passing molorisl, and visiling yachs.men

The viIIage is bullt on elher sde of the man


road naar the saltpans and compnses

East of the harbour are stallcw palches


Inshore and a salt pan ma1.ed by a red and
whte beacon. This ioo::b ~ke a harbour from

several shaps, bakers, PTT, a ma1.el am a


. used Tuesday and Thursdays and a fiiling
stalon, and the Mosque
Across from the
Mosqua are several cales selrng smple
Turkish food to the Iocals and raveliers

The

harbotr s

5hallcw bul deep enoogh for a yacht. At present the dredger lles up at the
man quay and ths is confirmed by the piles of sand Iying !here. There are many smail fishng
boals and s possible to Hnd a spot to anchor and tie back among the moorings
The 5heer is good and the swell does not enter

seaward.

safe point head for irmer end of east


appmx.225"T until enlrance is apan
through on 090"T.

"

comer With shallaw


. may be
to find space lo anchor wesl of nner

PlRAZIZ
A quamed hillside and wo radio towers are consp!wous on apPfoach which should be made
in a southerty d i recton as there is shallcw water atong the coast commencng 100m. east ol
the harbour etlrance

J,

- O-

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,.lo,
.la

(,

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, .~.

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--~-----------

.' ____">;=-...=-:-c,~..:'r
GO LYAl (AlALKAYA )

104

N 40 58.4 : E 3S- 03.15

105

BULANCAK

PlRAZIZ

Wi!h obVlOUs breakwaters and an &djacenl beach the fishng harbour of Bulancak offers
gooo::l shelter but a iong dusty walk Lo the own of the same name.
The ma," quay is occupied by the drEidger end lhe fishng boats Lie at moorings Thefe is
plenty of room lo anchor in mud
is shallow and charts lock soundings

safe pont should be made 11'1 a


becase or a shalow bank l00m.
harbou enlrance
breakwaer.

To avoid these round


otr, head cIose to POOt
from breakwater !hen fOI:Mt

to treakwater to COfICfete quay

Ths

iS e new hartour and In 2001


constructon of the quays and harboor IlghIs
was not complee The old harboor hes
dsappeared wih lhe consrvctlon of the
Yeni Yol.

viUage is bulI around te


square and has a gooo::l se1ecton of Yllage
shops. eyen a saddlemaker. but there iS no
ATM or Inlemet cafe. II is celtanly an
atraC\iYe old tGWfl wtt tnendly ocas who
welcometounsts.

The

An urderpass le&ds o the vllage which >s


being by- passed LO Ihe seaward sde by the
Yeni Yol As aresul! Ihe ea gardens once on
the shorelme are Inland

radional

room to anchor.

i
,

'.

/,

PIRAZIZ

-'<

"

'<
'<

, --+,

"..., '"
'.

'.

-'.

j
~

--

__'-------1

_
_ol<t .............. -

-~:::

--

"

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'.

's

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i
106

The harboor iS large and there is plenty of

"

, ,
~.
'.

2.. Wtia

,A

""";0""'" t "MI~i . )

~"'=--

L
BULANCAK

N 40 56,65': E 3S" 11 ,3'

N 40" 57.4 ; E 3S" 07.45

107

GIRESUN

BULANCAK
The

Yen

YOL overwhelms Ihe town that iS


expandng up the green hillSlde and the
shops are now on a street behnd the man
road. AJllems are ava lable and excellen
meat from oows reared n the Iocat hills imm
the bulcher. There are rnany ATM and
Internet cafes.

A very large Sanayi is bult on Ihe hillslde


aboot lkin easl of Ihe harOOur where any
mechanical difficullies can be aended to

The large breakwaters of Giresun harOOur are dearly seen imm Ihe west butlmm the east
are hdden behnd Ihe headland

on approach from the easl or departng to the east lake grea care of the rocks
n.ere

is alarge per n Sulancak bul thl$ has


no shelLer for a yadl as a swell se&ms Lo be
constantly present here

those inshore of the smail unlt sland of Palamu\ whid is barely above sea kve!
lo see and is on the drect course to \he harbot.r from Gresun Adas

especially
and dfficu~

A large part of the north breakwater of the Commerdal harbour was clestroyed n a storm in
1998 and the end of the underwaer obstruction is marked by s red buoy Crillt entering or
leaving must pass to the andsid. of th is buoy.

The new hartour on \he west sde of ille exlstlng harbour has beBn bu.~ to
sheller for fishng boas bul t is worse lhan te old wlth a vety heavy $Urge.

provde baner

Yachs are eq::ected to go lo the new harbour or mav find s $pol n the area of \he Commertia1
harbour by \he Sah~ Gvenlik bul the SWeII is bad here alSO. it s possble to anchor aif in this
arsa f callQhln ths harbot.r in bad weslher

the destroyed bfeakwatef is repared the new harbour WLII be Qute safe bul unlil then
entry or departure should not be aempted n heavy wealher.
Orce

The new harbour is incomplele wth no road access to the quayside or harbour lights bul
on completion WLII have maoring$ se aside for yachts and a smail yach club building .

south of rt. On entering

hartoJr noe tuoy

of slarm destroyed breakwater.

of moorng pcstcn in

GIRESUN HARBOUR

108

109

GIRESUN
Legerd

has li tha Jason and the


Argonauts stoppe<! at Gresun Adas on
ther way n seard of the Golden Fleece.
This iS the only island off the Bla;;k sea ooast
and on it iS a nired Greek monastery thal s
the goal of an annual pilgnmage on 20" May

Descerdl ng to

the eastem sde of the


headland and a walk through alarge
ooIlection O/old Giresun houses. now under
preservatlon order. a durch builI n the 18~
oeoury. comes ino vew , ths iS now used
as Gresun Museum.

eadyear.

z_.-

later the Romans dsc.overed that the Iocals


had fields of delicious litUe fnts wt;t were
derries giving rise to the name of Gresun.
cterries slill play an important part in !he
eoonomy of the region ooo years later

The city is now more famoos for ils


hazelnuts which are gmwn in every possible
wrner_ In summar side roads are covered
wi1h the nuts out to dry

- ,,_

...
..

,\.'

,5

.' i!! ..... /

~ ..

Giresun is built on e steep hill. the ma,n


shopp;ng street chmbing up lrom the
herboor lowards the cas~e at Its h~hest
point Modam shops hna the main street
leading up the hill to the Post Office. t>Inks
wrth ATM and Intemet cafn are found in Ihs
area. In the streets lead ng off all provsons
are available.

"

",~

'.

The castle cortains a memonal to the kcal


hero Topal Aga as well as nns ol an ancient
pelace. The shady pa1l offers great VIBWS
over the town and with severaltea gardens
iS a delightful place to IInger.

Retumlng to the sea front at the harbour one


street bel'ind the main road are the
everyday stops used by the !OCak and
1urtter Inland is the Ioc:al bazaar that on
ThUfS(!ay COV&r5 many slreels
Direc1ly
across the road from !he harbour is a
SUpemlar1te1 beIoging 10 one of the nut
1actones bul evliolable to aD. From the
oulsde t does not lOOI. much bul inside the
sllXklSgood.
By the coast 1here are fish restauranls
offenog e good vew to sea over the Palamul
rocks IInd Gresun Adas .
In the surroundng tgh hlls are many
plateau areas at a heghl of at:>out 1500m.
where smail tourlssetUements serving tmul
have opened In earty Summer theyare a
mass o/wlld Howers. Ofen trips lo these are
offered by the local bus company of can be
arranged through the Ioc<l Touris Board
whlct Is cIose o the Hazelnut Fountain.

oru

the Yacht Ctub and harbour are


completed Giresun wll l be lin excellen stop

'", 7~
<l

.<

..

,'d

<

'-

.<

.~

G IRE SUN

110

111

l\JRKEY SECTlON 4

Turkey Seclion 4 am Burnu ta Geargian Border

>

z .

J
-

From here onwards LS a mos anraclve


coastlie with greeo hills and many rtvers.
backecl by moontans rInd.
Ths is the lea--gro ..... ng regon of TUf1Iey
and the tea plantations on the hiIIsde creae a very nea! etlect aS they ile among$l.
lorests ol pille trees. S ..... ss ype chalelS
are vsible amoogsl the trees and every
smail vinage has alarge chmnay ind.ca
ing ii ea Ictory_

- -.

-- <

,)

<f

-.
L
<l-

The leature ol this coastline is the succes


sion ol bays and headlanels wlh many harbours, 22 in 125nM, sulab lor alld wel
coming yachts alsa many sandy coves
otler sllelter lor lurchl me slops.

""

-~

,-,

..

"-}

J,
J.i~ < -

os.

the

consruetlon

IIrs

major

own

Kemelpapa.
Thefa are no ollshore hazards aiong ths
iong strateh of eoas and l el1jOyS a speca
dmae wth Igtler wrds, warmer weather
and more taln than lurther wesl in the Black
Sea The wnd$ are class.cally tmrmally
rduced, cam until 4 hours alter sunrise
and bIowing onshore, veering mar\(ooly
during the dayand !hen taling at sunset.

CIose LO Hopa the

mos

uncommon leature
ol laltl.lde and Ionglude havng Ihe same
numenca) value e.g. N41 24' E 41 24'
occurs, Ths recurs In Batuml (Georgia)
harbour

of numerous reaining walls and shore proleetion whch creae the IlIuSJOI"I 0/ harbour
breakwalers when seen Irom olfstora Its
creatoon has alsa eliminated same oIder
harbours like Derepazar Lman,

However the everehangng scenery is


spectaCUlar elihar from sea or inland and
wth the KalIar mountans nSng to almas
"'000 melr8S and many smail villages
unlouched by tourism !here is much o see
and do n thIS area.

more Irequenlly and Sahil GiNenlk mav


ca a sea requestng idontficaton and

destnaon

.,

.. J

n
6,

reeded

is Trabzon with it
large eommereal hart;our and moslmpor
antly a rearby yachl manna. nol oiticialiy
opeoed but tlsable and weU on the wav to
completK)(l, The neld maJO( town s Rze.
the heM of the tea ndustry and then Hopa,
the POt! ol Entry ciose Lo the Georgian border Be)'Md tliS s the listng hart>our o
The

As a yacht pproaches the easem end of


Tur1tey Sl'lIps Papers mav be Iooked al

~-;.

" .i, i

The Yeni YOL has

,,

-~>

AM BURNU TO GEORGtAN BORDER

East of am Burnu is il bay sweeprg o il


headland with some islels olf it. on the east
side of which s Trebolu ..... th lS lght on
Kale Burnu, sectored FI WA ls. There are
many headtards ol the same name

II

PASSAGE NOTES

:f

-~

.,!

.~

B
.~

113

n Rfaot.u

nREBOlU
The Fonrass on the headland 15 conspicuous together wth the norlh breakwater.
The hatoJr 1$ open lo the eaSl but adjacenl lan! will provide protecon Irom thIS
directon.

The smail toa hatoJr has s.fficient d&pth lar a yacht bul
Consrucon wo1o:. is n progress lo quay
place o le up but anctorage possble.

no room.

alarge area. In 200t !here was

no

The castle on the rocky headland ol the


bay provdes a dramali<: gatew8Y o !he
bay.
The oIder pari ol !he town is siualed on a
pennsula
now cornecled to the main
own by a high bfidge

s.tate

There Is a tuoy

in !he bay west Ol !ha harbour presumably marking rocks. bul C\loousl)o
t iS a south caMal. Ths does not all9CI the approach to the hatoJr as this must be
from the norlh to the breakwater Lo avod the shallows imm the river mouth about i nM to
the east.

anel beiow waler rocks . Give this

The old lawn buill round a square has


several delighllul old buildings and a large
market which is corvenenty cIose o the
new harbour under construclon. FrIday is
the bg market day. In a square under the
hgh bricige are cales sellng Iocally made
::ecream which is the specal1y of the
area
Several kiosks and a sna!
s upermarket SUPPIY all provisions.

There is
town

e~ensve ebulding n

the

hillsde

The waerfront street is tree lined and has


an ATM and Inemet cafe. A dimb lo the
lortress is rewarded by excellen views
over lhe ares and refreshment from the
smail cafe bu~1 on the casde waUs
T !febolu has a tea laClmy ndicabng that
this is the stan ol the tea growing area ol
Turkey.

The residenlS are most

welcomng

to

and onca the harbour is


comp!ete wii probably be a good place lo
leave the yachl lor lurter explorabon ol
the area.
slrangm

"

hartour

Do rol anchor
the Sm. sounding shown on skech plan, it is
the path ol tishing boals lo !heir harbour.
Irom northwesl and

nortt

east

to eas.

~.

,
"

-
a

"
"

"-h-.

La

TIREB OLU

114

,.

.,.
N 41 00,6S' : E 38 49.2

115

ARSA

The breakwater is easily seen although there are na harbour lights or

struchres.

Rocks lie 011 the entrance bul good deplh can be lound In the southem hall ol Ihe enlranoo
channel between the lown pier and the narth breakwaer end. The dredger lies on the east
side ollhe jelty and yachs on Ihe nner sde n e.cellent sheer.

A vey busy liShng pon wilh good shelter but whose ennrn:e woold be alamng in Iresh
NE wnds due to the shallow water in the approach.
Breakwaler easily seen and same electrical pylons and a GSM mas on the hilts behlnd
canlim the locahOn. The sand bank shown 00 some charts in the middle ol the harbour has
bilen removed.

NAVlGATION

None in approach. There are some rocks and


shaOows 011 the breakwatef avoded by staying

Dangers in approach

south ol hallway belweeo breakwater and lown

GPS

"".d

pier.
N41 02.2': E 39"00.5'

ition ol breakwater

Proceed irto smail innef harbour which appears


very smail and narrow lo moor akngside west
tace of J8tly or a fishng toa aready the-e.
Mematively anchor in OlIter harbour.

Mooong ""'"

N4102.2': E 39"00.15'
4m

GPS ol moor~ion
~ a moori

ition

SHELTER
SERVlCES
Water

Good, eKcellenl in inner harbour.


AI boat steds.
Canis ler.

Fo'"

The town is larger than ~ first appears Wlth


many smail shops supptying all needs.
There s an ATM and Internet cafe n the
streels behind Ihe main street. The
speciatty here s submanne shaped pde
oontaining cheese or sausage and egg
Motoriss use thelf mobile phones lo order
ahad, and !he cafe runs out with the
prepared package on anival ol the car.

The Yeni YOL has resune<! in new gardens


beng built n thS smail listng pon. A
camplele Iraveliers cenm has been bu~
n Ihese Iovely gardens wilh bus stalior,
mosque, caM and the best tolets seen
anywhere n Turkey. The locaIs lake greal
prlde ts this new area and everything s
spolless and very lidy.

The nearby large Yillage is a surprise wlth


a rose fiile<! square with tea garden as th e
centre pece. Many shops, Intemet cales
and ATM and several large seli service
supemarkets. Saturday is mar)<;et day
when the IDeal produce is on sale.

A minimar)<;et across lrom the harbou


entrance supplies basic needs and Irom
here tracks lead into the countrySlde
climbng the hills between Ihe lea gardens
and smail vegetable gardens.
Good
vews over the harbour

The re are many pide sa lons and the


spe<:tallarge Ioaves are on sale.

Wesl of the harbour ts a beach. popular


wilh the Iocals, ol black sand Wllh
beachside lacilitres ol sun Ioungers.
showers and a smail cafe .

~:;;;;;:::;1-~~"~!'~~
"~"""";~:::::::::==~
LO .... fo-. ...1..
.;~!)"~. . .....
........... . ...
'" .... .
+ ".
;\

'.

'.

'.

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!

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-- ,

!o

..

lt

,.

GRELE

116

- -

<>

N 41 02.2': E 39 00.5'

loo>

ARI8A~.'Cr-----------~
N-;4"'
1 05.0 ' : E 39" 22.2 '
117

BEIKDZ
The habour LS easy to spot although there are 1'10 harbour Ilghts or struct.res Well shelWed With ptenty ol room to anchor and the dredger hes alongsde man quay.

To aYOid pass 50m east


corspiclJOtJS bridge .nd the wtvte
irl the 1101 d west cornar of the
is.., Ifarsn wh the head of the lT1I!f

. Tl'en

i~

archorage wlhin

green surroundings wth good sha ttar


and elear walm lor swimming aro an ortico
menl to spend several days here.
new houses are being buil! around the har
bom bUIthey do 1'101 detrcl l rom the peacelulness of the area

same

_....
....

l'

'o

F:_...., _ /
. ""-

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'.

'"

'o

1_

,,/

-- -

BEIK OOZO

118

harbo.r

LO

are Iwo smail rustic restau


rans where lood is served unde' large
shady trees.

up to the main road and walking


west thee s abakers makng lage whee
szed loavas n a WQO(! lired oveo. ii s possiblo o rotum to tho harbour through a
ro..gh path n the WQO(!s.
o

the Inland lde ol tho main road smail


pathslead nto lhe valley lor an easy e~pIo
raon ol some smail vllages. The paths
through the marlcured tea gardens are well
kap and lead hgh nto the hills

'. 1'-.

"o

, . -""
" ,

..

,.

.s..~

~
1!o~,9",

In the

s/o3f;6

'0.'l',
'.
""

~~

Clmblng

walls

Quet

I?~u """~ ~

..,.

.. ~. sho1 tem stop as !here is nohing to ne

ARBA

This is a real

t..n

"

~.

eo<>sp.e . ...... J )"

IN.""'' C~~3U
.8~5 -: E3r~o

11 9

ISKELE BURNU UMAN


The new breakwaers ol the habour wth their gtt SINewres are seen ckse eastward c
the ligh house o Iskele Burnu,

The old harbour has dsappeared

wlh

the construenon ol the Yeni YOL,

This harbour was b.ll lor large lishlng boats to discharge thelr catehes ol harns a Ihe
large quay bull oulrom the south 01 the harbour lor oward road transpon.

The harbour is suned on a Iovely bay wth greeney around and only a smail monma""e
at the bncige on the maln road lor Tl.lrlu$h essmuats
The smaB beach by the e.ast breakwater may dsappear wt the road constructon

once more gooci


leave the ya<:ht.

walkng county.

paths 5tan near the

mnma1wt,

No hazards on approach

b.t

and a sale piace lo

give both breakwater

heads 2Om, clearance.

N4106,25 :E39"25,8S'

of breakwater

Bertl alotgsde east quay. large quay reserved

IOf lst1ing boats. Nortlen quay s too stallow lor


yachts and subject to swell. Anchoring possit:le at
west and of harbour,

The breakwalers lie under the wes end of the mllCh enlaged own. Modem highris:
blocks climb up the hillside beh nd the hbour.
The harbour s smail and used by large fShing boa ts bu space will be made lor a yacht.
Tea gaOOns bu~ 00 the nortt breakwater add colour to Ihe harbour aea which is
surrounded by restaurants and trees tt Is a vey pleasant ptilCe wth shops clase by.
The poer at the eas and ol the own ~ ol seel sruclure and otlers no shelter Lo yachts.

.-

..... .

>;:

...

...,-

t,

, ..
.

;-

"

<'".b
.

_h

--

ISKELE BURNU LIMAN

120

."

","rke~

N 41 06.25' : E 39 25.85 '

'.

. -

.,...-.

....i .. ,

"

...-

'.

"

AKAABAT

N 41 01.6': E 39 34.1 '

121

AKAAUT

TRABZON YACHT MARINA

NAVlGATION

Stuated

Darg&rS n approch

N:re

Close wes ol the harlxuf s a line 0/6 unlit


orange py-amid booys eXlending from the store o
N41 02.15' : E 39" 34.26'. They are fLOI
ilerconnecled and mm the iie 0/ a S6Wer
treatment outIaii. DNers work n ihs area. CtUd be
a hazard ai ~

GPS posirlon ol breakwater


M:o i g flOIe

Dep a moonrg

poslllon

N 4101 6" E 39" 34.1


Berth aIongside !isting

boos

on q..y

Room

~"".

2 mlles east of Trabzon harbour the breakwaers are very promnen whelher
approaching from the eas of lhe west. The harbour iS s uale<! cIose lo the airport control
tower
The harbour is part of the Ali Yilmaz Spons Comple. wtlct aready oontans the foatball
stadium for the Iocal foatbal! team Transpor. alarge covered sWlmmng pooi. cha!ets for
T1!sidentia! sports courses and indool sports haL!.

tt is remote from own bui served by dolmu In the end h wiit be more coovtnem for the
$hopping area of town by dOWnU than the iong wa!k 001 ol the hatlour and dimb up inlo the
cotycentre
AIthough incomplete (2001) it can be used and lt Is very well

'm

SHELTER

V", .gcx~d'.

FORMALlT tES

Habourmaster

ste!ered

from the sea.

may pay courtesy caL

SERVlCES
Waer

F'"

Akaabat is buil! on three ridges the


harbour beng a the fOOI of the mos
wesem.

Severa!

of

the

lo the own cenue behind the police


station Is the area wIlere ATM and Inem,,,
cafes are siluaed.

radtona!

slyle
ownhouses sll e.ls on Ihe middle ndge
aOd he mn towo iS 00 Ihe easam ridge
Across the man road from the harbour ii
large shopplog area ha developed where
al! yach provislons can be purctased A
yachl chardler wh a good selection of
stan!e55 61eel bollS. pumps and pump
sparas s the IIUrpnse Ind.

lt is a holiday reson whlch is makng Ihe


mas of the Yeni YOL wOrXs lo provlde
plenty ol parks and play areas_
KOlle is the specialty here and peopie
Iravel from Trabzon o enjoy Ihase !rom
several restauranlS.

.-

TRABZON YACHT MARINA

122

.,.
N 41 ' 00.05 ": E 39' 47.9 "
123

TRABZON
on approach the targe cranes and sltos of the Commercia! Harbour are easily see"
Due to storm damage Lhe and of the northem mote has been destroye<! and s now
marked by a Green Buoy.
Yachts ene- the Commerclal Harbour and head for the Kuuk Uman in the south
comer, The Sahil Gilvenhk headquarten s n this basn,
Ths

area

provdes

good shelter and someooe WlIt

In a:khtor a new yachl manna

s n

an advanood

ndieae
srae

z _,_ _

eas

where lo ile up

of conStructlOl'l, refer

preceding

~"'.

"i be passed 01'1 rts

There s also a smal tuoy ma1cing


the south Soo of the enrance
Ctose eas t of !he harbour s a l1e of 5
pyramid buoys elCleoding lor the
lo N 40" 59.70' : E 39" 49 DS' They are not
mark the line of a sewage
ii
n ths area. Couid
hazard a nigh.

., "

, 5....

\i.

Lo

:::

_-.

rj ~

..

i
anehor and be

stern-o

Sahil Gvenlik may gve permssion


quay.

i"

, _.
.

.i

ALI authorities in

/'.-

./

iZ!

13
'" .

&1

/
i

CJ
TRABZON

124

N 41 - 00.45 ': E 39 45.05 '


Q

125

TRABZON
Modem Trebzoo is torooghly cosmopolitan.
it s ii busUng cty wth people of aLi
natooaJtes throngng the streels and a
populabon of O\'er 2 million.
Russian
language iS jus as likely to heard as Turkish
and many shops have slgns in Cyrilli(: script.
Trabzon Is the reglonal meropolls and wth
the apM and car renlal agencles Ls an ideal
basa for ex.plorlng the &aSterT comer of \he
When the new manna s
Black Sea
complete a new ctuisng area based on
Trabzon can be envsaged

The old town

cearly balongs

to the Ottoman

ere bul Ihe sUl'foundng shops and


developmenis are definety 21 - cenlury, All
goods can be found in Trabzon and alarge
Sanay can assisi with any repalf$ Modem
hoels have teen buill In the aty centre to
aOX>mmodale the growng number of foregn
tourisls and busness lravellel"$.

From the comer ol the Commercal harbour


where a yecht may ie Li is long walk lo ille
hartoor

gale. Here the tretrc explodes al a


lerge roundebo\Jl wheh musl be negotiatecl
to ehmb to the cty, lt 15 prelerable lo go left
and use the undefpass lo eross this busy
road or go rghl end use e secondary f(lad
If Ihe
Ihat dimbs 0\'81" Ihe men f(lad
underpass 15 used thiS cross~ al Ihe
oove-ecl bazaar erea and keepng nghl dimb
up a nal'fOW seep road llned wth shops to
amve on the road Iha leads to the lown
centre square
The haart of the cty Is Ihe square.
SUIToul'lded by OOImu and taxis The ea
gerdens inside are a weloome oaS15 T....o
paralle' streets lired wth modem shops and
hotel! iead lrom thIS squre and north of
\hem is \he ok Criy. WandelM'iI through the
old aty whICh is d.vded by Med<eval wOs
one passes old I'IamafTl$. lT106qU8S and haos
slll in use by va!lOUS arsens. The tazaar
has ii good goid and ewelley secon
ncludng fnety woven golcl bracelelS which
are a lradtona l Trabzon emft. Internetcafes
and ATM re fouOO hrovghoo the towo.
CIose to the entrance to the square is alarge
supennar1\et but more coovenien shops he
dose o the harbour and the uOOerpass to
Ihe harbour gee .

Trabzon Museum is in Zeyhnlik Sreet which


is otl Kahramanmaras
Cad on Ihe
southwesl correr of the square The man
streel also has a very large pe shop where
supplies for aU anmals cn be purchased
nere s also a yel n the shop
Qnce Zeytenlik Streel and the museum are
found keep!efl and here s ii launderelte
wtefe washng can be!eft and c:oMeeted eli

woods evenluaJly amying at seps nto Ihe


mooasery. The vanous chapels are now
ooIy shell bu! fre&ooes Irom Ihe 14"
cenury s; remain. some badly damaged
Aestoration worll is In progress. Avisi
can usually bEL arrangee! thf(lugh a Iravet
agent or wjth help !rom the Toufisl Boad
stualed ooar the Square.

The TDUnst Board has delals ol walks and


reks organised by Tekas every Sunday
aOO ysors are wek:ome lo JOIn these

Itertime

The house wto:::h colO! the museum wes


built by a banker n 1898 wth matanilis
trought from llaly The owner went banknpl
and the house was lurned 1010 an
accommodaon palace for Atatur1\ to stay on
hs firsl yst to Trabzon. The buddng was
\hen ntonalised. used as a court house and
Jaer for 50 years a G"s Hgh School. The
deoorated walls are all hard drawn and
palflted. OfIe of the few such examples In
Tur1\ey,
lt s an nereslng and well
presane<! Musaum.
Aya Sofya Church, 4km. wes ol the ciy, can
be vi~led by dolmu If(lm the Square Bull
in 1238 it cotains a colleclian of wall
paintings which form one of Ihe woods
foremosl colleclions ol Byzanline art
Reslora~on in 1960 revealed a series of 13
century Irescoes ol 55 biblical scenes under
400 years of whitewash.
The meganl art rouveau residenee bul! In
1890 aOO 8km southwesl of Ihe cty was
gfted to Atatfr1\ in 1937 II cantaiM ii good
selecton of period fumilure nd memenos
of the Turkish presiden!.
A popular dayout IS a vs lo Sumea
Monasley, the photo on many brodlure and
books of !he Black See 46km . South of
Tralnon rt was abandooed by the monks n
1923 and has suftered muct vanoalsm . BUlIt
on a dffwtct nses 500 m. from thewooded
valley rt 1$ an mpressve sghl.
if a Cruse
lrer is n the harbour delay the YISlt as the
atmosphere can bes be eflJllyed when faw
Ylslom are around. From the ca par\( and
cafe a path wnts up through the

126
127

EasHy ldenl,lied by the 011 starage tanks to the 001111 ot the lawn the breakwaters

proect

e good hrbour. The walled area a,ound redaimed!and south east ot the harbour Iooks
)ke a breakwaer on approach.
A large white l>uldng on the h~1 above the owr is obvious
The harboor 1$ large and is ar anchorage wlhn walls. The water appeared dean
enough to sWlm bul wlth tte many lish pens in !he hatxur the water was prOOably poIIul

...

The hart>our quays are

drty

i
N

dua to the unloading ol cement.

ro' .
D'

i""" stup moorng tuovs for the oii temraloort.

./

<~

....

J. ,

eas l breakwater.

o,

YOMRA

tn the dust)' man road own between


mosques ere smaJl shops wlt basc provisons bul ii POOI' seleclioo of M and veg

N 40' 57.65 ": E 39" 51.5 "

In town Ihae is a jetty previously used lor


the shpment of goods along ths pM of the
Black Ses.

etables The PTT. ATM and Inlemet cales


are aLi in tis ares.

The own is now mcre or tess ii subum ol


Trabzon and ii new sanay has been bum
on Che h.' above tho town o provde

employman! Brlck makng LS the man


employment and every 00f0E!f of he harbour and gartlens OOfllains brici<s elher
beng

made of

dryog

ARAKU

128

129

ARA.1<!1

SRMENE

The harbour sheltered by a wooded headland is easy lo see with its large lighl
struclures.
The selting is delighlful and allhough the harbour is busy with lishing boals there s
plenty of room to anchor.

A new smail harbour LS under construction 2 kilometres east of Ara kl.


A rado mas Or! the hill above indicaes the harbour pasitior!_
The prevHxls smail harbour has been partly been filled in ;ons!ructon ol the Yeni YOL,
The-e are no bollards to te to and unlortunately parts ol the old breakwater have been lelt
underwaer although with the clarfty of the water theyare easily sam.
The harbour at presenI is not to be recommended except to the advenlurous , with so mary
other gooct harbours dase by.

NAVIGATION
Oangers

III

GP~'

approach

of

There is an awash rock aif the and of Ihe


breakwater.

breakwale

N 40" 56.7 : E 40" 03.35'


Moor, probably alongsi:le fishing boot! al quay al
north end of harbor or anchOf. The quay at the
soulhem ed s reserved fOf coaslers,

Moonng nole

Depth al moorig pasition


SHELTER

NAVlGATlON
Oangers in approach

Many rock!; have lallen aif the ends ol both


breakwaars durng cOllstruclion and the short inrer
one has been built on a natural and e:ctensM rock
outcmp. The law seelion inside the main beakwater
whch will bocome the quay has a rocky edge .

GP~

N 4(f 54.9 : E 40" 08.5'

3m minimum.
ucellenl.

SERVIC ES
Water
Fuel
Repairs

T!IPS on qaysd and south end ol boalsheds.


Canister and taxL
Me.:hanic on main road al top of steps. He alsa
ses o~.

The lown of Arak is abau! J.\ km. from me


harbour, Away from Ihe main road it has
reelined streets tML cortain an excellen
selection of shops. There iS a smail
covered market wher th e Inlemel is
situale<!. ATM and PTl_
A smaJI s.permarkel, belorgng to
Findobir1ik. s corvenierlly situaed dase
lo the east beach
which is nexl lo the
harbour.

ilion ol breakwateM:oing nate

~nside
SHELTER

Anchor and be with ioog lines lo smail quay or lo the


sheds .
See chartlet
Good

on

each side of the harbour are bathing


beaches, the one lo the west having
pameular1y dear water.

it is a convenient place to leave the yacht


to vist Surmene for the Tuesday Market
and the Castle close by.

Thll day lo be in Silrmene is Tuesday which


is market day
The market strelches along the main road
and alsa covers many sreets Inland. The
women who come down Irom the adacenl
yalas to seli and buy the tocal produce are
all dressed in coIourful scarves .

Inleresmg

cheeses are $old together wth


the local specailty al maize bread wh ich
looks !ike a yellaw cheese wilh a dark browr
crusl. Very. very. filltrg
The market can be visite<! by dolmu from
any of the nearby pons
The local shaps alsa have all provsions.

..
.L

...

ii,.... .5tTvc/un.5.

Clbout-- 12..... h":h

ARAKU

'".

-tLf>

N 40 56.7 : E 40' 03.35


SRMENE

130

'"

N 40 54.9 : E 40 08S
131

8AlI KlI

VfNlAY

The breakwaers of the smail shallow halbouro! Bal kh sh ould nol be conlused
brea kwa!ers of Yenayand amburnu.

wlh

Ihe large

Ths old natural herbour s used by srnall!ishng boots.

The fisherman. who are more of Greek


than Turksh appearance , were all moslwelcomng and boas were moved lo make room for
Okura. There are several smai shops ciose by for baSC provISlOOS.

As Ihe.-e are no tighl s1tUCluras the

brea~aers

are dlffteult Lo

dislngush aga sl

the road

worksof the Yeni YOL.


This new hartour WlIt e~ceen sheter is \he bes place o leava a yadl on ItIS strelch ol
OORS\' The dolmu aloog the man road In eilher direction gives qucll access lo Ita many
beauMut spos around,
Ths

harbour was one ol

Okur"s lavoures

on \he whoie of the

Blad;

Sea

Apan from the enjoymen of e~pIoraton there s no mason lo stop here wth Yenayonly
1'i, nM away.

NAVIGATION

Rocks and shaiows aif and of naa

brealcwaer.

on final approach align en(! of inner breakwatet


beween

the

tal boa1touses and then make a


aratmd !he I'lrer brealtwa!er.

wo

15m. handral
GPS

positon

0/ braalcwater

MoomgOeplts a

SHElTER

moonng poston

N 40" 54 9" E 400094 '


Anchor and

1.Sm.

aganst

Good l rom
!ind

Ie sem-o

quay,

quay.

Ite norttwes bu! exposed o norteas

eas

,
N

....- lO".

....

3, '"''

1:;.".
.. / , '. t
-

..

,"

'.

t..

. ,~-;,,~/

..IL

- -----'

~ ,

_0:- 0 - -

YENIAY

BAUKU

132

'. '.

..

"

,. '

.'

._.
A,

""",_ . o.~

e
o

F'i"' '''l ~
s"

*'

o.fc-

N 40 55.2' : E 40 '1.5'

N 40 54.9' : E 40 09.4 '

133

AMBURNU

YENIAY
Althoogh the new road s most consplcuous
n parts li wll be $ome hme belore
complehon,
Across the road there is a baker and a lew
simple shops Lo supply baslc needs
A beautlul sandy beach \\/ith a covered tea
house s an e~cement Lo remam several
daysn tIsharbour

By takmg the dolmu wes the Kasle! of


Suene can be visled iLiS said to be the
best example of
$ea
crchlecture
to survlvf, more or Jess bul 90'119 downnil
quiddy
lt was budl around 1800 for the va"ey Iords
and rema'oed n the same famly untl

B**

CIY.

-"

The Iocal govemment have now take ovar


the bu'ldflQ and t '!ntended that renovaton
w!l commenca. in S heyday it was only
accesSlblefromlhe sea,

Abus orC3rtnplOthevillageof Oirtik. 10km


inland. s an advanture, The road dimbs .
\WSs and tums through s&veral smail
senements, mOStJY old wooden houses
same beau l ifully restored some now
becomng conaete monstrosities, until
finally arrivng at Oirtik.
The viiiage corlars two Greek churctes one
ol whid has been converted to a working
mosque A path whd is beng WIdened
Ieads paslwatertaUs to ths duteh

The breakwaers are almost adjacen o Yeniay bul ths harbour is identfied wth the light
thal has suffered Slorm damage and is askew and the very large new mosque at the
inland side of the habour Alarge bUlldng east ol the harbour and conspc:uous on
approach is a manne college
The harbour is now given OYer to shipbuildlng bul there is room lor a

yach Lo

anchor or

lie aIongs'de

Soma large vessels up o


them the

habour

oom

iong may be

ted

up JUSI inslde the entr.ln(:e. Once past

opens up

Continung

With Yeniay so close there is btle reason o ,top here unless for repar. One of the
smail yards n 2001 had compIeted building and fining OUi a t2m polyester motor yadl

mountanside

The smalllown 21lOm.

on the road and IlM dmbng il


curves back lowaros the sea amVlng at a
hotel and recreaton area
called Zama Oa91 Tessler. Here a laf"98
hotel has been bu'lt togethef w,tt" terraced
eagardensard barteque areas. AI 1500m.
the air s fresh and cooi. n summer ii iS a
popular spot away from the hea a the coas

the

wes

has a f_ shops and PTT

on

the man road are severcl resaurants seNing the IDeaL spec!aity ol chat-grilled T
bone steaks These restaurants are accesSlble by loot 'rom Yenay.

From the smail road cIose to lhe Kastel a


walk ntand is worthwhlle. Keepng In a
southerty drectoo pas the smail 'lillage with
sevaral shops beaut ifut wooden houses are
seen in the trees, CoItlnulng aJong the
riverside. where the women do Iheir
washing. Ihe path condnues for any miles
through anraclve woodlands

";;,,,'Ior same stones of! slorm


damagad breakwater.

O;;~:::~:~
posnon
o
i
ol this quay or andor.

==:---SubJ8CIIO same

sweU

AMBURNU
134

N 40 55.55 : E 40 12.25
135

of

OF

Wilh consPI\.IOUS breakwaers the excellet new harbour o f of s an ideal anchorage W11h

walls. Fnat cons!fuctioo work Is In progress and a tea lactoy w,th chmney is an indicaion ol the harbour enrance

The lowr of of s 10 mnues walk away. The

road

alorg

the

Ireelne(! wth

watarfool

many

sm;;ll

iS broad and
sl reets

~'ng

from L.
The water

15 very elean In

the habour Ashore !here LS at presen no quayed area


A very large mosque has been bul! n the
centre o f the town whose nleror dasgo is
said lo rival the Blue Mosque n Istanbul.
CIOSe to !tu!> are two large setf servce

"""'""""'"

The Interne cafe and seveal ATM are ciose


lo the PTI. The lOCaI specalty here s boner
made from milk from cows feedlng in the
hert oovered yalas

mayrequest

From of it Is an easy journey by


Uzun~ sualed

at l100m.

tt s

dolmu

best to visrt

this area mid week as a the weekand t is


very popular wth trlps from Tra bzon. The
lake Is set amongst beautilul scenery WlII
plenty ol good walking and excellen
restaurants serving troul from the lake. Brid;
and concree rival lfe wooden houses hefe
bul away from the viIIage centre lIe
countryside 1$ stili untouched
Several
g,8Oa' takas are Io:ated wlhin a days
trekkng from hen! and vsolS to lIese can be
organsed ocaly.

The countsy inland from of is parto.lar1y


atractNe 3S !here are old wooden houses
per:hed on the hillsides whose goods are
delivered across valleys or up precip~ous
stopes by hand operated aerial ropeways

--OF

136

lo

N 40' 57.5 " : E 40" 16.85 '

137

IYIDERE
The break ..... aters of the harbour afe easil)'
resu!

a yachl

enenr;

constru<:ton

The

or

of the

leavng
Yen

SOOfI n he mddle

of

Ite

smail town. As a

provldes a spectacle Idr taveHers on the

YOL

man

road,

presen

will iili In some of the

halbour bul a new


breakwater Is belng bullt further east and WlIh an extenson lo !he old north breakweter
will PfOVide a new larger halbour.lhe sandy beaches tha once lronled the town hs'ffl

already clsappeared unoer the new road.


The smail halbour ol
ol tte Yem Yol.

Petro ta

lay

l~nM wes

has been destroyed in !he

:onstrucbon

NAVlGAT10N
Dept

at

hartxo.J'

entrance

6 -12m. Probaty as a resul! of Ix:alised sand


dredgrg.

Dangers 11'l approach


GP~ion ol breakwater
M:oing noe

~atarc~
SHELTER
The town

the

road

man

Suni< breakwaters. The outer breakwater eKtends


for 40m in a northeast direction.
N 41 00.9' : E 40" 21 6'
lie alongside quayor anchor.

'm.

G:xd, partct\arty

al south end ol harbour.

very smail and spreads aIong

Severel tea houses and


are buh on the sea slda of the

smail stops
road and around a square oppose !here
are a law mnlmarlc:s and cals serving
simple lood. The rs(lens are ederemty
Ioery and de!lgtled o se lOfe'gn 10urislS
in ths forgot\en comer 01 Turlc:ey_

From the viiiage ii s possble to walk wes


long the road Lo Petroz where Ihe road
devekpmen has meant the rebullding ol a
village compIete with rourdawts and
underpasses. There is no llidence of the
harbour wtid was PreViOUSL'J here
Returnng.

LOCAL. RURAl SCENE

i wlk long the old road abova

TURKISH BEACH

.,

te

YIf11 YOL and entering hlgh up n the


vIIage provdes an attractve eleretve wy

~-

'-J

.....

.1

back to lyidere

IYIDERE

138

N 41 00.9 : E 40 21 .6 '

139

RIZE COMMEROAL HARBOUR

RIZE

buildngs

Wi\h

The hlghrise
oos from the

of the town and breakwatefS of \he CommerClal harbour are obvi-

dslane.

The posibon iS

""'"

populanon ol nearly tOO.<XXl


everylhng iS available here The harbour
iS a good walk along the waterskle lo the
town centre passing a smail fishlng
habour and alarge public market where
'resh lrut and vegetables are soid
togelher wnn other market Iters
A
fxtbndge crosses the busy road here and
leads to the town cenlre Hgh nsa
buicirgs stretth fO!" several kJIometras
Spread mrougtou the
aloog the coas
lowr are banks. ATM and Internet cales
Located on a hR above the town s the
Tea Researct Irsttue whch ii!; al60 a
botarc gardan and tea house, There s a
good view over the town and as weg as
sampling the vanous types of tea evalable
hams cake s served. a ocar specalty. In
the various tea factooes, recognlsable by
their tali dmneys betchng black smoke in
the summer. tea 15 ctred. drie(l and
blencled befare beng shpped all over
Turkey
Close to the PTT are some old wooden
houses in large gardllfls. An Onoman
house, lacing onto Ihe square. has been
lurned inlo a m.seum dsplaying personal
OOlongngs
of AtatCrk
and also
ethnographical artdes of the region

. ,
,. .

.-

the kale Is batween old houses each


perched precaoousty on the hdlside wiih
tea garders dropporg below mem.
ThiS s a populer vewpoint for Iocals
especally n the Iate evenng.
Aher vistng many smaN hartours it is
pleasanl o wencler Ihrough the sl"eets ol
Rize and o erjoy some of ts many
restaurants
Eas of the lootbrldge over the main road
a Large garden area has been devekped

Wlm sports latlm and restaurants.


There s also a larground and everylhing
is wetl cared for and dean making rt a very
anractve plate to Bnoy tte sun for the
many hgh rise rlat dwellers it is ai me far
end or tts new deveopment Ihat tte
planned marina iS n costruction.
A lerry lrom IStanbul ciocks at the large
east quay ol the harbour at noon on
Wednatcays and leavas 3 hours !ater.

~. R h

140

.,

lo" "

RIZE

"

AvSl o me kale hlgh on the ridge above


Rze gIYes a wondeml view of me hills
behnd the town completery covered Wlth
tea bushas The dnve along the rdge lo

ho: 3<1, oo-,

I.M.

"

N 40 02.34 ' : E 40' 31 .14 '

141

Aytu
RIZE YACHT MARINA
To 1he eas1 ollhe

cwn

With canspcUOUS breakwaters and modem buildll'\Qs thS small harbour has been over
whelned by Iha Yani Yol Ihat now rtlns hgher lhan same ollhe surrounding houses

a new yactt marina is undar coostruction.


Pomon

The harbour WLII become even smaller on complelon ol the road. AI presen Ihere s
nowhere lo lia aIongsida or anehor and e stem o. Anchoing is possibk bu no grea
amaction.
The lawn can supply all basic needs

N 41 02' : E 40"' 33'

The work on iM project 1$ ai presen suspended but part oltha breakwaer is complee.
II is the inenion thal !here wlll be berths lor 50 lo 100 yachts and will canlan Customs.
PTT. Bank. laundy and reSlauranls.

said o be Ihe
here on ~ s Laz.
Ths s

las own

on the

ooas

where Turklsh is the native language FI'OITl

work. in hAnCL o.\June 2001 1///1_

,.,..... Cor~~

..ch"...

affeelo "arbour.

RZE

YAT

.._.

..._.,...
.c

umuWT

re~i "i

fo"

... , wall

~W r " "

.V.I

. 0.W(

A"'.

fro- N:..rb"""

. ... .u. "III


. ",......h..,o

.,.,

. ;. ... .o.n.r y

.......1<.

AYELI

142

i ...

~ n:....r...

r....g..:s

N 41 05,55 ' : E 40 43.35 '


6

143

PAZAR

PAZAR

On approactfrom thewest the town and hamovr are hdden untl raund Kzkales, GpFI{3) Ss,
The relnfOtCements /or the Yan YOL extend'ng from the town are easily seen and the Ight
structure at the en(! ol the fishmg harboor breakwaler a lurther 2nM east s obvo.s.

The smail town olPazaris 3km to the wast of


the hamovr. It s a simple oountry town now
affec::ted by the Yeni YOL which witl bypass the
towncentre
local market day is Thursday but on other
days basic supplks can be purctased .

"""

Kzkalesi

and arother patch


.;~ here and !he harboor The hartour
breakwater head s foul and most be gven

of not less

ttan~~5Om~~.;;;;;;;:;;;;;::=
~

west sKil.! of
. Mor as directed probably aIongslde a
The east side of ths quay s
coasters and Sah~ Guventlk "oj
lace lor working!isting boats

4111.9' E 40"544'

,
Sahil Gilvenlik may request papers II

R:t.,..- (i ,

Pazar Is an Important stagng post for otmu


in the area each dStrc havng lls own
st.artog po;n. Most contusng for strangers
but the frendly nhablants and dnvers wii
make svro that the comct bus s laken.

From Pazar ii v,s,t can alsa be made to Ayder


and same of the castles nland. Ths visit can
also be made from Ardeen where the yacht
can be laft at lincoor. The road first dimbs to
aml,h8mn n the Kakar Mountans where
ii de:tSlOfl has LO be made as to whether to
cont,nue to Aydef or lake the smail nilITOYt'
Ul18-Urlaced road LO Zilkale This is a castle
n.rn 1x"lt or a crag above the cascading
Frtoa over.
Wth the snow covered
mountalflS in the background it makes an
unfofgettable picture

Wth

Con,mring to

the yacht safely ted up n the hartour it


s a good centre lo see some of the Interior.

FtOm Pazar a

dolmu

goes

lo the

smail

Yillage of Hemin from where Ihere


s good walking. This iS the wenest area of
Turkey, so be prepared This viiiage is off the
Iotlnst route and should not be confused wh
amlhemin in the valley lead'rg LtOm
Ardeen. Dolmu go o both hese places
on the way many humped back bndges and
spectacular wooden suspension brdges
are seen crossing the river o smail
setUernenls on the other side While walkng
alongside the iver from Hemm watch out
for the bee keepers who live n precanous
bum out platforms from d,ff 'aees and hang
thelr hives from brarctes to protect Ihem
frombears.
mountan

Aydef from amlohemin the


road is bettef and dmbs lo 13OQm. Aydef
was a rustc YlBage ol famers and foresters
enjOyed the oca tc spnogs bul tounsts
tllscovered the natural charms of the ares
and soon hotel bulding commenced.
Forwnately now every new bulding has to be
bollt LO the l1adtonal style and covered n
wood The village 'S seattered for 2km. along
the valley and Ihe ma,n road s pushed more
and mora into Ihe mountams, A specalty n
the cafes and restaurants n Ayder is a
cheese fondue served wth com bread. The
loo:Iue 'S made from the stnngy like cheese
seen m heaps 'r the Iocal market.

....no

As weLL as treatments for varlous ailrnenlS in


the hot spongs traks IOf up to 6 days in the
Kakar Mountans can be organised in
A)'der. Gudes fOf such trips can alsa be
found n amlhemn,

, ' .-.10

~,

. .
"

"

""'._~

nt

..

6 -.- .. .....

c"
i .. ..,
"i! ,.,.;.,;...... "'Fo .... f-r"
:-.& ..

BEE HIVES

...c.

---

PAZAR
ZJLKALE

144

145

AROESEN
Samog between Pazer end Ardeen li iS possbte on a dear daytosee Ihe hglest peak ol the
SIad: Sea mounlal"S Ol MOI.Inl Kckcr 3972m. it iS one of the hIhesl ponts on eartn Ihal iS
vsble from sea levet
The bfeckweters and some hIQh nse buldngs III !he iown cre easdy seen. Ths laroe dean
harbour LS another anctorage wth walls. The water iS dear enough IOf 5wmmng and iSas yel
unalfected by the Yen YOL the lne ol WtK:h iS SIOWn on the charUe

NAVlGAT10N

Oangers n aPPrOadI

GPS

posilOfl

0/ breakwater

Moomg ...,

see breaks souheast 0/ te


hrbo.r breakwater suggestng $/"\alcw water but t was
stil Him.

None.1n ffesh ccndibons

th!

N41 " 1195 E4O"5965The only quay area. a the nner breakwaer.15 OCCI.IJl ed
by ihe dredgef Anchor whwe conveneru.. Good holdng.
There s e $/"\alcw area wrth an awash rock oif the stream
lhall10ws nc the hatou.

GPS 0/ anchorago

N41" 11SS' E 40" 59 4

Oepth st Sncho'!2!

Sm.
Excellent she~er fn any weatller.

SHElTER

The harbour Is In Ihe mddle of the lown


ma~ng shoppng most convement. The
cwn is much larger than li appears wth a
wde street WlIIl tees oown Ihe mlddle
behncl Ihe coasl road. Everythng iS
avalable here and of good quahty Slock
up here as Ihe stops n Hope ere e iong
way Irom the herbot.r and do not have as

good a selectorL
Th9<'e is howaver no LUeI eonvenien here
but it can be purchased e the nexl
harbour ol Amavi.

Tea 9ardens line Ihe waterlront end Ihere


are also attractive li5h rasteuranls There
are a least 3 Intemel cafes and eLi the
usual banks wilh ATM Everywhere was
very dean and well kap and Ihe locals
most welcoming.
The

anchorage can be used as an


altematve lo Pazar for vi5115 Inlancl o
Ayder and the Kakar moun\alns.

"

,0

-AROE E N

146

,
,. '.
".

--

of ....... -

- -- ~

N 41 11.95 : E 40 59.65

147

ARHAVI
Siualed a the wes end OL the own the smail enmelve harbour s easly seen
hlly rea. TO Ille easlthara is a arge wida vaUay with ariver entenng the see

the

beklw ii
cIosa o

habour

The water is ve')' elen n the harbour and good lar swmmng. The
will affec this hatbour evldeoce Ol which is ready appamnl.

~~!!!~==j~~~ tte
Lo

south easl GlVe

lne

ol the

Yen

YOL

ts

Or anctor There 1$
swel et the quay al the west enel ol te
toots.

The town ol

Artavlls

about lkm from the


hartou.
Severs hgh nse buildings
s!,atet ooltowa,ds tha harbour and a new
mosque wh lWO mnares sgnfy thal Ihe
cenlre is movrg in ths drecbon. on
Salurday a large mart<et ooven> te area
belween the mosq.e and the prevous
town centre Covered bazaar areas where
dothes are $old have been bul1 ovet" the
rivar. on the ooast lhere is a promnenl
S!alue ol \WQ peopie and directty betllOd
tWS Ile the PTT and bank5 wth ATMA
pedesmr&eel street ges lrom here wes
to the market araa

By Ihe rivemoda ctose to the harbour S a


large spons area and lurtle. nIancI ii
smail sanayi_
Orectly

across from the harbou. a Steep


road dimbs up to the hilltop \iii!h paths
smerog lor rnIeS nIancI malung ii ii
good walking ama Here hlgh amongs
the tea planatons are aKcellenl vews of
the snow <:<lW!red moontars
Several
new houses have been bult n !hs hilhop
area and ot appeared as of ii public
teagardm was aiso bemg bult.

ARHAVI

148

.-

N 41 ' 21 .15': E 41 17.6 '

149

HOPA COMMERClAL HAR80UR


N
Tha smaown 0/ Hopa has very large breakwalers prolectng the Commercial harboJr
whch s coospcuous wh ils large silos and high dockside cranss. From Ihe beach n I ron
of the own are several seel Jettles bullhey are no sulable for yactts.

,.

Atough

Hapa has no dedcated facilies for yachts a presen. !he harbour managemenl
make yachts very welcome and have se aside an area ol the quay lor ther use.
Unfortunaely thS Bra n tertan wnds suffers!rom dust from grain and coal sIlips road
ng and unIoadog. The yacl" area s also some dstance by 1001 from the harbour enlrance
gae. The lishog boal area wtich has quays mora convemeo for a yachl is conSidered
Insecura
Ai""

NAVlGATION

.. ooff .....

G1J.OO"'' '

_.
c. s . c . .... "'.~ ....

& SoN.iI

Dangers .... approach

No dangers. There is a wreck in a Cort1B( or


tartoor. south 0/ sahil ~ beM.

GPS pasitIOn 0/

N 41 G 25.3' : E 41 G 25.85'
After enterng hartxur make for the innef tartxur and
moor where cifecled. probably alongsde the sauthwest
faca of the large ceotral quay.

bfeakwaer

M::oring noe

GPS or moonog pastion


Depth al mooflrg pastcr
Radio chamel
SHELTER

N4124.6' E41 " 25.8'


8m.

FORMAl..ITlE S

Port of Eny All authorles elose o harbour ert1rance.


See eharlkt

SERVlCES
ElectriCity

,...

Wate.Repairs
FUTURE PL..ANS

"

..

requem!!fll

On quay. eorvected by harbour. very ioog cable


requrOO.

Tap elose to harbour office.


Canser and laxi. perhaps mini !anker to quay.
Lmled. arranged through harbour offica.
To deV9IOP mama faclites .... harbour. Boal storage
ashore aready available w!h free wnte.- somge a

M"".

~_lCU_.

lo call.
Very good. bul t s tg harbour wth a oog letch causlng
movemenl and alsa subJocllo wash from vessels.
VHF 16 No

1Mo,.......
. . .... .'
E,......"
., .
; _
," "n>~..-...-.
.....
o

the!stw"g

HQPA

The mos eastem


81aek Sea port of
Turlmy is Hopa an alractive smail own
bull around a bay surrounded by forested
mountains_
Srce

the opening 0/ the border wlh


Georga li has greatly elq)ilnded and large
lomas laden Wl!h goods pass contnoously
along the streets either eporting of
mportng goods lor Turkey
cose to

Lhe harbour exl there s a very


smail shopping ama where the mirumarkel
wll
deliYer to the yachl wtct s
convenen for heavy tems SUCh as
drinlWlg waer.

The town is spread a10rg the waterfronl


and stopprg is baSIC wtch is SUrpn$lng
considering the imporunce ol the town
There iS a smail market a !he lar eod of
the own dose to the river and bus stalcr
where Iresh lrurt can be purehased and
where the bulcters are souatad
Several ATM and the Inlernet cales are 00
the man walersde road
The own S an exeelieni p1ace to vst Ihe
famous area around Artvn
whlch Is
renowned
for the runed Georgan
ehurehes and villages unouehed by

N 41 " 25.3'; E 41 25.85 '


The bus from Hapa o Artvin slops a the
valltly below Artvin and smail buses make
the jOurney up o the own. Walking up LS
al90 possible bUl II is a Iong hol walk
mueh beter o walk back down for the
relum bus to Hapa
Artvn

IlseH 1$ B busHing own bui" on a


steep hlllslde. Being cicow o the border
!here 1$ a $l1Org ml1ary presenca n the
town and the Kale perchad on a erag
canno be YISIled as t s n a mlltery area.
Many cafes serve iocaf food on baicones
Iookng down on the vaney bul the view
has been spoh by the damage lo the
countyside Ifom the new barrage and
roads beng bu"
Tte

road Irom Hopa lo Artvn dmbs over


the Cankurtaran mountaln pass a l88Om.
where he green scenery changes to
bal'fen rock passlng in a canyon an
ambtous PfOfBCllo hamess the nver as a
hydrolet>ic stabOl'l.
ThS

erea is for Ihe advenluresome and


whle rlver ralting. dimbng and trekking
Inps can be mad n ths wild eountrysde.
There are severaJ nallfe reSeNe5 where
black
and
brown
bears
SUNve.

ounsm.

150

151

HOPA
Anolher grealnp from Hopa is o Karagl a
remote mounan lake which is reached by
dolmu firs o Bora and then anolher o the
lake_ The area around the lake is a naure
reserve and here in summer the woods ;;re
fun of brown bear. wld bela. fol( and deer
The road 10 the lake is unsurlaced bul the
)oumey through everehangng sceoery s

Hopa is the eastemmos\ POn ol Entry n


TurXeY and where a yachl must che<:k out f
visitng o!ler counnes n te BlacJc See or n
if amYing n Turkey.
The POlI Police at the gate wli assst and li S
possble to do the papefWOr1l one day and
leave early the Ilext attough tte passpons
are retaoed until the momn of departure.
Howevef they do not start untl Sam. If
amYng n Turkey from aoother country the
olfaals wH visii lhe yadt.

specacular

The walking opponunltes here are endless


Take everythng requ'red as there are no
faates although fofeSI8fS are Ikely lo offiif

",

GEORGIA
This is
Hopa.

dellnlely

lhe

las

pon In Turkey Iymg al the soulh end ol a bay 5nM.

northeas

ol

II has a moderae sze harbour with breakwalers witt repvted deplts ol 2 Lo 3m. There
are lighl sruclures on bolh breakwael$. Th lown appears qule sma and has a
conspcuous lacoy W1lh chlmney on ls north side
Okura was

no

able

o vlsl

itlis border port as she had checked

ou

of Turkey

Hopa

1--.."

/ i

/ .....

-"-._ . .-l

KEMALPAA

_ _ _--J N

41~

29.0 ' : E 41" 31.0 '


153

GEORGIA
The lenglh of the coast of Georga from the
to the R,$S,an border LS 1650M bul
the fTIO$\ nothem ,Iate of Abkha.a has

PROYISIONS

Turksh

seceded and 15 closed to


travellers from Geofga Ths LS unfortun,na
as thIS part of the cost con18lns the besi
scerery and beadles.
effeetvely

has il SYb ropIcal dmae and In


summer can be very humid and hot. however
Geotga

tere

are usually plea5ant 58a breezQ5 to


reduce the temperarure byday

The county s mountaouS te Hogh


Caucasus range forms its rorthem boundary
and to the 5OU1h are the !eSSEH' Caucasus
ranges loming the bordef .... th Tu1Iey
Thefe are three peaks bove 5000rr and 10

over 4000m In the country From almost


averywtere

ther. are

mounans

Smail supermarkets provde all the


necessary supphes Pon and laStIB, end the
assisans are
most helplul Lo tounsls.
Butum and Peti have large daoy markets
where lresh produce is avadable togeter
,",th iive d'dIens. sheep and pgs. The"e is
a good range ol types of mosty homemacle
bread for sale in the markels and wth the
Iocal honey and butter makes a wonderful
braakfasL
Local wne is of a hgh quality Wlh many
famous cellars. old Tbls seemed to be a
Iocal favounte and is on sale everywte1e
They also pmduce ararge of brandies
The beer made Iocally is strong, but lighIll'
well known makes are made urder licence

TRAYEL

distanca
The !lCe1'l1ll'Y 1$ fantasl<: wth hgh mounlans

anelent churches and tava c\,es to be reen.


FORMALITIES
A

v,sa

s lElede<!

should be

by yachtsmen and this

advance. 'Urgent
enry ysas can be purehased in Potl whlch
iS oow the only Port of Entry for Georgla
ThS ysa
pefSOI1.

obtaned n

for wo weeks In 2001 oost $80 per

We were Informed that If il ...sa is


not alreOOy hak! ~ was besi to ge ~ In
Trabzon. Turkey. from the Georg,an
Consulae

where ~ was much cheaper and


issued on the spo
Ched; be/are senng ou as !hngs are
always changng
Batumi in the Aulomonous Regon of
Ad.,ra is ro k:nger a port of Enry and a
yact must pmcaed Lo Pot Lo fOlTl'llUy ener
the country

154

In GeO(ga Ihis is an experience The roads


apan fmm the main hghways are n a very
bad condition. Many are unsurfaced and
those that are have large potholes. 8uses
are antque bul servcable and a bus Joumey
can be an eKeellenl way o meet same oflhe
ocals.
Someone on the bus wll speak
English or German There s a gOOO bus
servce between Pot and Batum whch
allows the yachl to be lelt salely in Po lor an
8Kpkxaton ol 8atuml.
The road is very
scenc dimbng OVIlf two moontains on the
way.
The trams are beng modemlSed and an
ovemght !ran runs from Batumi or Potlo \he
captal city ot TbIISl. Ths is an Interesling CItY

COSTS

MONEV

Although it is a poor country Geergia Is no


inexpensive. Local foOO in the market and
eatng oul s more expensive than expecled
buave is very goOO value.
Poli Marina has a charge bul the service
gven juslifies the cosl .
The cost of IMng for foreignl!f'$ USng oea
supplles is v~ reasenable bul Imported
goo:Is are expensive

ATM 's are In shan supply In Georgia There


Is one in the Sheraton Hotel in Tblisi bul none
In Potl or Baumi
Cast1 wihdrawals are
posslble wit a Visa card at most banks. The
banks are all OOlng modemisecl and many
new bulh so iri futufa \here should be several
ATMs

ME OICALSERVI CES

The currency 15 \he Lan and 111 200 \he rale

CURRENCY

ofexchangewas 2.1 LantoS


in TbIs the embasses have a Is ol English
speakng docors and n Po Ihe
Harbourmasler would asss n any

PEO PlE

emergerey.

I s no

LANGUAGE

a nch coontry and and \he dfference


betweer the rich and \he poor is very
mar1.ed , but nevetleless people seem
oonent.

The language LS Gemgian bul mos people


are bi-lingual speaking Russian and
Getlf9lan. Now chilelren in the school are
being taughl English as heir second
language.
The Georgan language Iooks
like nothing else on earth and has been in
use since AD 450 In the Black Sea Coast
most signs are in Georgian scnpl but in the
major owns Latin S{:ript is alsa used

The Georglans are most hospitable and


generous people and this makes up for the
terrlble state ol roads. postal service and
electricil)' supply
EATING OU T

A favouna fllng di$h is a cheese ><ZZ8 made


wth the Iocal slrong solt cheese and the
barbequed mea available a all cales and
retauranls iS lasly
fresh fish is also
avalable.

8read s served n copious amounts

~ME
Georga iS

GMT

+4

hoursin Summer.

to VSl.

are driven at grest speecl on the roads


dodgog \he pothoIes and having ro respect
LO( man o( bElaS. Keep out ot lheirway and
do not eKpecI \hem to stop even a traffle:
lights if travellng by ta.i have one
recommended by the marina stalf
Wilh few street lighIs and tie hoIes on the
roadS and pavemenls it s not a gooo dea
o be ou n the dark. Take a lax to ge
home safely.
Qrs

155

PASSAGE NOTES

GEORGIA COAST

GEORGIA

From Turkey the ooast sweeps up rorth


rortheas wth wooded hlls d(oppng to the
see The border Wlth Georgia is desognated
by wo markers n avaHey whch are irt at
nght. bul rotceably wth ii queue of trucks
on eact sde awating customs,

The coasl flaneos out.


-mounl.ans bennd are never far away, unut
the delt of the Coruh Nehri s reached with a
shallow palch and then a few nM, furthef on
the bay 'Mth Batumi. As Batumi is no ionger
a Part of Enty arrival and departure is mad8
a Poti, a I.rher 30nM dile north . aloog a Ila!
coas~ne W1th many rivers There are no
hazards bu! soundings oltOrn. ilre as far as
t nM offshore.

Betweer
wo

but go o Poll Yact


Club in the Commercial hartour iden!fied
with buoys and breakwaters tnM further
"OM

1
.

Russan

Federation

Roo

and the

Ingur. Ths !alter. denhfied as Ms Amklia


ls03s16m 2'-4, iS the de facID border of
Abkhaza whch exends aboul90nM. to the
Russ.an Federation border.

As a resul! of the unres in this area offical


goveromental poIicies are that vessels
shoukl reman well ofrn,s part of the coas
The PM of

Suchum is

reconvnended by

bul not f comng from POt


although it appears there is ro

Turlsh fishem&r

or

BattmL

problem " amving from the Russ,an


Federaton or Tu'key
co<sl

between Turkeyand the


RUSSlan Federaton the amant LS northwesl
goon9 varyng betwten neghgbleto ~t:

,....

not ener Poti river

and the

large maa are passed, the

A10ng

Do

Po~

G.I Ci

. ." ,

TBLls

156

157

BATUMI
Approachrg

from the south the own and lighthousa ara aasly seen bul the harbour
hdden in a deep bay From the north the breakwaters can be seen.

11~,

/
i

.~

",

hartxur.

The more ' ..... II""ly s at


E 41"38 90'

).

8;- 1 >--- ....

. The

.
\ '

necessary to go further aasl and sOUlt to

q"",
quays 6,1.8 or 9

<

#j ...

"f

",-

O' i

poslor nstructed s

."

"

,
"

to swell.

..

<'

, .........

saveral years ago but


the breakwater is now broken :ioYIn Tugs
the shelter of what remalOS The
,
00_
maroa wi

N 41 " 39.0 : E 41 " 38.7

BATUMI

so pertaps the

,,..

,
,

"""";....... d .... -LoI


f\... eftO]<Lr :.; ~,...."
POT _
~S (_; )

~ ...ll

, -......... "'1<

be complete<!_

(" -- k'

--

ii

..

~ hat-.l

...
ii.

<e..c..._"'"

-.

.-.,.i

L _ .....

'" o........ Nl-el

RI-l )
..:o.-;.,..

105 Mi,,;"". ( +00


~ OIC .... ~ .....'I

'" sb' i"""


e

158

Nocq e

159

BATUMI
In the southws ol George is the prOynce ol
Adjara. an autoromous Republc. The man
town is Batumi end what i contras to Poti.
Batumi 1$ ol spe<:IClI nerest to the
cartograplef CIS li s one of the few places on
land n the Wor1d where the labIlide and
Iongtude are the same.

Thefe s a pro5p9fOUs ar about the town and


the epensve car;, the weIIkep pat1s. the
good roads and the modern cafes and
restaurants at every street comer confirm
IILIS Generous portions of tasly food are
served in theS8 restaurants and the owners
are delighted o have ourists
Amvng

by bus the road hto own passes the


main harbour 9flranoe and e large glass
laced bank and a very modem Roman
Cahelllc Churct The main road parallel Lo
tha sealront Iads to alarge squara
surrouncled by hlgh nse bank buld,ngs, the
builcling of the Adaran AS5embly and the
blue and whie bulclng where the leader of
the counlry Iyes Saunly s hgh n ths
area. MClny shop, cnd hoels cre stualed
together Wllh the Ar Museum n ci beautlul
gallery buill n 193O o house the Museum of
Communsm.

Alarge wooded sea fron par\<. wlh many


cafes ~ads lo the sea and to the Ighthou5e
CIose by is !he Commercial development cil
the partially bul manna and thao the path
leads to !he Passeoger Termnal Seyeral
cafes on lhe seatroo otfer an attractrve stop
for a dnnk Across the road s the Turksh
ara. complee wth mosque and the Publc
Mar\<.e wth a good selecton of Ioc.al produce
forsale.

The Slate Museum of Adara has ttle o otfer


and can easily be missed,
9km outside Baumi is the Botanic Gardens
These are on the road from Po:t and l is
possible Lo leave the bus al the upper gae,
walk down through the gardens and lake a
Io:al bus imo Batumi. or there is abus na
nns betwean the garrlens and Baum.
Founded in 1912 and now nn by the
Academy of Science the gardens coyer a
large area of hllly ground and have spaces ol
plans lrom around the world.
The sem
tropcal wealher in Batum iS perfect for s\.ldl
gamans.

In Batumi there iS no Posl office as normally


known. NI ma,1 must 90 by EMS and yanous
kosks olfar ths service. Stops displaying
the sgn Post Office are pnyately ron
telephone offices. Money can be wthdrawn
a most ol the banks by Credit card , there Is
no ATM bul several exchange booths where
dollar; can be eJtCharged.
Thefe iS an Internet cafe between the

market and the IOwn centre

TBU SI

160

161

POTI
The large brea kwalers of the Commerclal habour are easily seen when approactng from the
soulh bul more d ffcult from the north. However archored shps irdicate !her postoo.

The Yacht harbour iS inside the


prominen from the entrance.

man harboor cIose

to the Passerg8f termnal thal s

", .
'"

.,

water otf easl of hartour


is a

"'-...

har1:our leading

pas

,.

for the distnctve

Md

Beware of large ships


or leaving the harboor

.. ," ,
)

. "'''"::'

.,

./

-/

laway

,"""'"
Green buoy). Proceed

- ", j

,-

N 42~ 09.6 " : e 41 " 3S.S

POTI

'"
:",",n>, hmgrabon and Harbourmaster wll
on amvai. VIsas available d noi alre3l.t)

.... b>u ..

... ~i. . A>r at""'" ..-..il

''"'''t,

..

-....r.~

$ GtU le~'"1

S.i' ..............
? Wi ... ""'p
Flwtby

ef A>ti off i " .

"'" A._/'<""'"
~:
MioOibcla. (f-LO

&tu ...;)

/&rOl ......,. ............

4 ;... i
.. : al ;"'!I atJ-iOn

""ne"I'" (cl d j
S ............. " seulpt.-c t"'~k

.. .............

'1

'62

st...u. <Itf"'~

. ~' ..-;..,e

'63

POTI

Pat Yactt

_.
-

--...... J
lI!uo , .

')

-'.-'

Club

IS slualed

close to the
P3ssenger lermn31 inside Poli CommElraal
h3rbour, Here s a re31 Y3dl club nn by
yadtsmen for yadtsmen.
The Club
M3n.;ger, Jumber Tsomoia, known es, Jukl,
il fomef Whitbread Round te World and
0Iympc:: Yadtsman, MS developed e very
good s.ling school for youngsters as well es
3n anradlve y<tdl :lub A smail terrace cafe
ensures thal3 stay here is very relaxed The
pontoons and Qusys have waer and
eled:iuy and tual can be arranged. Clean
stowers. ailers. excellent sauna and sman
fitness room oomplete the facltes. Thet"e s
SE :urity24 hoursperdayaltheyadtClub.

Most rep&rs can be tackled ether by the dub


stafl" or by Lhe oca sl'pbuildng yard,
The Chef EX8CUbve of Pat commeraal
harbour doss 311 he can Lo help the Yadt
Club thal is expandog and improvirg every
year

,-~

fE
POTI YACHT CLUB

31-. /id,o...s d

'i

ei

N 42 09.2 ' : E 41 " 39. 3 "

Here iS an excellen place lo leave a yacht


salely lo expkra Georgia.
The harbour is sel in an atlr3ctive aree of
greenery and the nearby Icwn is Improvlng
rapidly due lo the prosperity brought from the
commercial harbour. For many years the
Icwn suffered due lo closing of the shpyards
thal previously had bul ships for the Sovet
Navy_

Potl is a spreed out own bul useful shops


and il bank are nolloo f3r from the harbour
The Publc marte ai present beng rebult s
ckse to the Scon and h3d a good selecto
of Iocal goods. There s 31se a cake factory
seHng the best cakes we have t3sled outside
Swtzer13nd. CIose o the harbour are
several cafes selling good grltis and the
ramous deese pina

From pot! it is esy to lake the ovemighl Imin


WItt sleepWg cars o Tbhsl lor sightseeing
!here and L!SO the bus Lo Satumi. Anothef
Interestiog top is o Lake Paloostomi and the
rtver Rioni once across the lake and nlO
the river raure is at its best Here s the
Natura ReS8<Ve thal 's a slep over for 21
tnreatered brd s~ The conseNabOn of
thesa ColchH; wetlands LS now under the
Wor1dwl6 Fund lor Natura, Ths top by
smail bo<it can be ammged wth the help ol
the YachlClub.
to the ancent cty of Van s e3sily
organzed. Here much of the famous goId
ewellery seen n the Treasury ol the Tblisi
Hstory Museum was foun:! As. well as the
.ns from 8~ to 1 century BC there is an
excellent museum, and Ihe captions are n
English.
A

\'st

I flme allows

The streets are moslly tree Ined and border


smail houses whose gardens are filled wth
Inil and vegetates. The large numbaf of
pigs geese. ctdIens and cows that waoder
on the streers n daytme enlarges the
oountry !eeling of the own. In the evering
they can be seec all makng the:r wav home
to thet own garden, The leeling of space is
alse attnbuled to the OVef that i\ows througt

another wonderful place to vislt


s the manastery at Gelall sad o be Ofie ol
the most beautiful spots in Georgia

<I.,,""".

tt LS good to see several new banks and a


modem hotel being 0011 in additio the many
old houses tha are now being renoveted
There already is a very good hotel called

_.

..
s.

164

NICHOLAS CHAPEL

165

11

1 '--

"'"

0.0

_l_o.

~ _ .

. "..... n. L..

_m'M

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

POTl THEATRE

4'I

166

167

COSTS

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

sea Coasl of the Russian


Federetoo e~cludog the Se of Azr;)Y is
200nM and 1$ known as the Rus!an RMera.
The sea50fllass from June o Octobef and
m(! summer can be YefY hot. The water
temperaura n thIS area may rise to 3O"C.
Eteept for ii few naval harbours the araa is a
holiday reson for the whoie of Russla

owned cruising yachts wshng lo cruse Iher


:oastline
II takes tme . 50 apply ea1y.
Each port is trealed as a new country so a
multiple erry visa is requred-f neodng o
visit more than orw: harbour_ (EoIcept thIS dd
not woO; for Okura-as beiow.) Ooty harbours
may be visded. anctonog n bays by foregn
yactls is nol pemtted by the Froner Pobce.

Ths coasune

has only a few POrtS to mteresl

the

yadsma

In the RUSSliln FederalOn iI mar be


necessary lo employ an ageot as most of the
lorms lo be completed are prinled only In
RUSSIan.

81ac1.

The

cruisng

As

a result

of

regulatlonsln force in Sommer 2001 a yadt


was uoable Lo cruise aior\g the coast and
could stop a only one port
De ails

$o<:h hartxur have been


pn:xluced Pemi$$On to enter sod Yahl
Club was always dened ,md the skeld in

of

the book iS from ii Qudt (unoffiClal) vs! by


\and Okura vt$lled Novorossysk in 1999
wIIh KAYRA and the nformaton n this book

;s from tha ViS'\.


As the rules fOf vstng yachts may change
datails of oth6f harbours along the coast are
included.

a most anractve cwn and it is \YOnh


the eften fOf vsas ete, to see a pan of the
Russan Federation

Sochi

Okurn had c muftple mly visa and had


pnvtOOs/y had agruemenl it would be
poSSlble lo cruise /he coasl vfslting Sochl
Yach Club, Sochl. TuapSB. Gelendji.:
Novorossiysk 7 FfHlIs Yachl Club and Anapa
bul on arrival al Sochi wero loId by Border
POI1C9 it would not be possible Ok/ra could
saU a/ong Iho coasl lo Anflpil to check out bul
nol go ashore anywhefe ftlse excepl Anapa
After many phone calls flnd bemg neld m
Cus/oms for several days OJwra was I6ld
wilh several Olhef Ukrnrte Yacls a Ihe
Ferry renn;n;:tl Once deared mto Soch there
seerned fo be no resnctrons os personal
movement
When the yacht W8S fina/ly
alkwed lo depalt Okura went drect o Su/ma
InRomana.

FORMAlITIES
PROVISIONS
Belare visling the Russ,an FederatIOIl a Visa
mus! be obtaned To apply for ths vis(! first
an invtaton is nsadecl Lo vsot the c;ountry.
Ths is d,1!iQ.1t but the ycdt club at sodi or
at NOVOrOSSrYSI. can assst, (dea~s of
conlacts n apperdx). Once the
invtalon s receved the comptaed
applcator form can be 5lIbmned together
Wlth many phoIo6. AppIlGabOn foms can be
downIoaded from the Internet at
httpl'-_traveldocs.com
Apply n YOtJ' country of domIcile or in
Istanbul wth the help of Ataky Marina The
man problem is that the authortes do not
understand the ooncept of privately

168

Goods ol all kmds are available and no


shortages were obvious durtng the vist in

2001,
Eact

\own has alarge munc:pal ma1te1 and


all fresh foad is available here The market iS
a deligtu to visil with separata haRs for Ii$h ,
meal. dairy pmduce and 0IIIS>de stans for
tnit and vegetables CosIs are c:omparable
oany Europeancountry.

The area of !he Russian Federation vlste<!


by yachtsmen ;5 ex pensive Flrst there are
the necessary agents fees and then the
harbour charges
Both of thes8 seem
extremely hgh al tirs! but can be negoaled
As the harbour In Soch is not uS&!! o prtvae
yadts fees are charged at large ship rates
other POrtS may have their own method of
chargng and al '7 Feets' Yachl Club In
Novorosssyll. no agen! is required
Desel here 's nexpensve bul the amounof

diesel on board must be dadared on amval


and departure. If leavng wth more on
departura than on amval. duty 15 payable

CURRENCV
Currency LS the ROl.Ible with an exchange
rete in Summer 2001 0130 roubles to S.
ATM machnes exsl ard they give cash n
ellher ROl.Ibles or U S Dellars II is a gcod
place to reslore the dollars you have spant
elsewhere.
PE OPlE
The Russlaos seem lo lall nlO IW'O classes
the friedly welcomng helptul ones and the
beaurocrauoflldals.
TIME
Russan

As the amanl of eurrency 00 board has to be


cleclared on arrival and departure. and
if departing from Russia with more cash than
00 arrival. koop ATM receipls to JUslfy the

Federation

GMT + 3 hours

Summer
PASSPORTS

dflereoce.

The full passport and vlsa must be carried

TRAVEL

at aLi bmes Al 10 card as issued by same


countnes iS no aooeptable.

The excellent traln servce througflout


Russa means that any place can be visiled
by Iran. The dstances are huge, o Moscow
from Soch is 36 hours There is an alrpor In
Sodi w th fl gh\s lo other Russlan towns
and Turkeyand n summer a passenger ship
10Tmwon.
MEDICAL SERVICES
As there are many hotels oflenng health
eures. known as
sanatona . n Sochl
medical services !here are gcod.
Phamacies supply propnetary dvgs bul
under ther Russan name,
lANGUAGE

The CynIlic alphabet rules here but usu.atty


same one t.ms up who speaki some
English The chlldrer now leam English
and lhel1 parents are prod to show on
ther

childrens skiQs

SOCHI

169

PASSAGE NOTES

RUSSIAN FEDERATION (OAST

,
LA' (,I . ...,

i
1

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

The border with Abkhazia Is identified by


fixed green Ighls AbouI 10nM lurther I'\O(\h
wesl LS c mnor headlnd a\ the mouth of a
large nver, the Reka Mzyenla whlch stalns
what has been crystal dear water Soctl
15nM away from here is the soothemmost
POI1 of Entry. See remarks about approach to
Sodntext

can be subject D vey strong northwest


wms called Bora whch an preveflt a yadl
and sh,ps entering the bay. Ttese normally
las only c lew hours and shelter can be
found andored of!" il bay wesl ol !he
&Iltrance

socti Yadt

SocItusl<.'yltGp FI(2

Club is 1f1M so.rth of the


Commercal harbour bul dlllcul! to
dshnguish amongsl other rettes and
"",",,'

LS heavly wooded
nerspersed wilt large hotels ead \ISIrg 8
different means of transport to \he pebble
beach. Cable cars, gondoIa, funcular
railways and underpasses are srung
beween the !>here and the hlls.
The
mountams are stili in the background bu now
Iowerand IUrtherinland.
The c08stline

The coast wilh many beacles runs 50nM


further nOrthwest from Sochi to the large
Commercial and oil harbour of Tuapse wticl
is sa,d o be a Port of Entry.
Colm.ong

lor another 50nM akng the


coasUine the horseshoe shaped bay of
GelendJllt is reacled.

170

The entrClnce to Novorossysk Bay 15 rock


strewn bul weLL marked. Novorossysk Bay

RlO-S. marks thewes


se of !he bayand the coast fonns a 35rM
ioog promontory to Anapa which is the
oortnemlTlO$l Port of Entry
On this
heildland ara two 'out pomts Ms Unsenok
wlt 11 west cardnal buoy over 1nM olfshore
and the sle of Ostrolf Unsh
There are msny navgatlOO buo)'S leading to
the Kerch Channe!. unllt shp moorng buoys
together wlt gas and 011 platforms. on the
passage !rom Anapa to Ukrane.
Wte no a Port ol Entry.
GeiendJk 's nctuded.

a steld plan of

Severalother ptaces which were Russan


Federation yachng centres are mdc.ated on
the map. hopelully they wll some day be
open tocrulslngyachts. Theyare;

Oagomys

Analher BnM further s Ms 0000, Qp FI(3)


l00m.21M. ITlilrkog the eastem errtarce to
NOVOfOS.sysk Bay.

N 43" 38 75' . E 39" 38.9'


GoIovmka
N43"41.3' E 39"21.65'
Lazaralfskoe
N 43" 53.8' E 39" 20.15'
No\fOfTllChaltlova N 44 G 14.3' E 38" 49.8'
o,ub9il
N 44 G 18.3' - E J8042"l'
Gelendpk
N 44 30_0' - E 38G 020'

171

SOCHI
The

pro,ectng

breakwaters are seen from afar

wth

the

buildngs

of Sochl

tetird

...
-U1'~ n.,.....
M'd '11 .....

Hartx:ur

Control when 5
off However ths attracts Patrol Boa of
length who may nsis t ( boardng at
Suggest approach harboor from
along the coast and call control
m~e off. On arrival, officals and hfIot
meel yachl. Use of aget iS essental
foms 10 be conpieted are very detaled and
Russan. Agent is sympathetic lo yachts and
helpful. The amon olluel and oii on board
to be stated and ths is compared with the

:-

II

,. 1,
N 43 34.6 ' : E 39 43.0'

SOCHI

I,:::~:~deo: lared on depa1ure ,LktI cleared in


i~

go ashore. Mer clearance move to

fUeI than on

_....,

Note that if you depert wlth


arMI duty wil be ctarged

agent fees.

Paynent req.ed

. .,
,

. -,

SOCHI YACHT ClUB

172

N 43' 33.7': E 39 45.2 '

173

SOCHI
The harbour at $od LS a mtxture of
commarcial doc:ks naval base, QlSloms
quays tug Jettes. roll on roil off pler.
passengar shps and yaeht moonngs
somehow theyall manage to live togelher
InsOe the breakwater
After ctedo.og III at the customs quay vistiog
ychlS aochor and be stem to the quay used
by tugs and smai freghters The holding is
very good. thd< dirty mud so S yacht ean be
!efi qule safefy to explore the SIJIJOUndng
area as iorg as it is rnoored well o" the quay
Thefe Is co:stant ITIO\IefTIenl of $hppng n
the hartlour local Russan yactlS used for
daily I1ips are sllocated lhe s/'eIlsred spot
between the road aOO the hsrtour qusy
it is worthwhile checkng WlIh the mooong
dspatcher if there s a free P!aCE amongst
the dally tnp toats Here the bollom 16 fool
witt chalns LO( the navy moonngs. the Ioea!
boasall he on moonngs.
Sochi ,s one of Russ,a's largest seasde
rasorts II was developed 35 s spa 10WT1
because of 'Is sem, rop,cal elimae and hat
m,neral spnngs. Pebble beaehes streleh for
many m,les along Ihe eoas end the
Caueasus mouna'ns form a dramalie
backgrOlJnd.
The harbour Is cenrally sltuatsd In the town
and most plseas ofnterest can be visted by
1001. Walkng Is a pleasure ss most of the
SlreelS are tree Ilned wlth many parls
nters.persed amongst the luxurious shops
The wealth ol lhe hoIidaymakers hera is
easll)' seen by the many very expenSl...e cars
on the road and the luxury goods IhiII the
European and Amencan brard name shops
aresel~ng

on !he wav to !he town centre snd sta\JOll s a


pedestran

Sree

.nec;i wth oorst style

shops and many sna' salls se.ng beach


and $pOf'lSWear Amongsl these are IIQor
ShOPS and several smail 5l.lperma"'ets and
of course. cafes.
The Central mar1let 's one of lhe beslonthe
8tack Ses and an s svalable from !ve
snmals to nowers and tn.t and vegetables

lighIS bu! on pedestrian eross'ngs cars


stop.

The Railway S\a\JOll both ardlleClurally and


for condition us! nas o be seen. In mos
other ::oun!rics it would be a firs dass
museum. Clcan wabng rooms WIlh omae
pamted ce,,ngs and greenery. sweeping
Slil,resses and balc:ones leadng to the
spotIess platforms, qurte unbelievable

In the area around sodi are maoy large


hotels and sanatoris ar set in lOVeIY gardens
Most nave cable cars or funicular ratways to
reach the bead and the ses below
A plea sa nt tnp is to walk along the
promenade and IiIke the sman cable car to
!he top of the BotanK: Gardens and wall<;
down through them. Thefe iS an excellen!
vew from the top and many axote plants and
!ress grow in the gardens Amongsl the
planlS ls the Tree of Friendshp on wh;;h
Iemons. oranges and grapeln,,t grow. Many
foreign dignitaries have v,s,tcd Ihs Iree as
can be seen fmm the plaques attached lo li
and in a nearby hall 'S an exhbton of the
gifts given by these v i s tors to Soch.

SOCHI

The Dacha of S\ahn can also be vs,ted and


hera a guide will ~ain tow Russ,a was ron
fromth,sv,lIa .

, w....bo.~
.,.,... "tt-

day tnp can be made to tha


mountanous region known as Krasnays
Polyana 80 km from Sochi. A spectacular
road Isads to the area through the Red
Vallsy The valley widens to provide good
farmng ::ountry and here a bee r&seSfch
larm has been esablished
Nearby 1$ s
Natural History Museum wlh many
vewpoinlS built in lls grunds.
Ths ares
surprisingly has the most abundant snow
faUs in Russia and a sk area iS reached by a
three stage chairf,n_ In the car par1l Ioere
!here is a good sel: -11Ofl of Iocal haodwof1\
forsale
An

e xcellen

....

, ,_ t
"

........

, 6/...... "'*-0.,_
""","' ... ,rl-'"

Jikr..... , ..u ,,-.~

!:LO....,;. An

re ' I, e.er

In any of the large hotets are TOIJnsl agences


wto offef tnps o many of the nterestog
plac:es aroond Soctu.
wten

In the 10WT1 centre are several banks wth


ATM machnes and a selecton of Internet
cales

w,

leaving Soch the vessel and Clew


have to move lo the Customs auay IOf final
clearance and s\amp. A yactt can only
Ind'ess when li wshes to depart authori les
wl l state the precse tme.

.:.h.-
,-~-'1
.. ,b_ hat'd

O :ei '9
r

.......

l, ... 1 -3

'-

" "" ....~~

:-.~~

F' ,...~ Si 11 ,'1

,....,.W

The traffe Is heavy but the Underpassas ara


welllitand dean, manyeontaln ma"'al stalls
lt is an olfenee to closs the road agams Red

174

175

NOVOROSSI'r'SK
Enterng

the large bay the 'Yactt Club 7 Feets' is stuated on the por1 sde dose to a large
meITonsl on the beach The breakwaterwith light strudure on the end is COfISpcuouS

)
~

(
o

lMisOoob
Fl.(3) \" .2 ...

NOVOROSSIYSK BAY

The Commerdal hartour ol Novorosslysk s


a large oil dlstribubon base e:o:portng by
shp. tankerand underground pipe Iti:s now
one of the most mportant Dil cenltes n the
Black Sea so y8Chtsmeo wlM apprecate thal
Lhe Comme:ial harbour has nothng o olrer
a cruising yadt
FOftunately there s a smail yacht club callad
'Vaclt Club 7 FeelS' at the entrance Lo
NoYOl'OSS<)'$k Bay

should frs approath the


yachl ctub for a bem by VHF and LO see f
cearance n can be amngect when VISlted
Wlth KAYRA n 1999 everyone was most
A

good selectlOn of tradilional and modem

,h.,,,

Near the station LS a large lresn food and


vegetable market.

In the mountars behnd the 10WfL is a


lamous champagne faclory_
Many
Ihousands ol botUes were hdden III the
sum:undng caves during World W1lf' The
ctampagne iS good quahty afthough rather
sweet to European tasIs A faw botties of
Brtt can usually be lo.rnd

viSltng yact

helpfuL

NovorOSSlysk Is an ntereslng town rebu~1


n 1866aflertta damageS\Jlrered duringthe
Cnmean war and agan after World War LI
The treelined streets and many parh are a
pleasen surprise and the streets contaln a

Novorossysl;

is a good piace o commence


the trp to Uluane lor enry n Feodosia

, ,..,

Wilh the change oflte affildfl of the


frooter poilCfJ Okura was not able lo VlSJI
n 2001 and iI is not known whallhe fulure
Wl" be forcrUlsmg yadls in the RU$Slan

~..

..

F9deral/On.

YACH T CLUB 7 FEETS

176

N 44 41.7" : E 37 47.58 '

177

Other Russian Federation Harbours

-V'
N

, +

",

UKRAINE
ANAPA

N 44 54.0 : E 37 18.4

" i
,

/]

.
i

L.J

GELENOJIK

N 44 30.0 : E 38 02.0

_ .,.,101"
Gt>f~l.~ .. U~ .:,

...

....

N
II

TUAPSE

178

ir

-;..

"+

N 44" 05.15: E 39 04.15


179

UKRAINE

UKRAINE COAST

>

iii _

..

,,

"

~
~

.li

j, '

glWlg some

takes 4 days to ISSII8 or by 8llPf6SS at 8~tra


cost2 days
Crew arriving at Kiev Airport can purchase a
1 monlt visa on arrival
In add it ion health Insurance rnl.lst be
purchased. Private health Insurance held
by an individual does not caneel the reed lor
Ihe Sate insurance.
General dedaration forms. crew hsts,
togetherwth a list of ports lo be visited
should be prepared in advance

The COiIstguard called Lebed foIlows the


yad! by radar and requests that tefe is
contac. every time il maves AI flrs tus
appears an intrus.ion bul the benefil is thal
dctails on any naval pr.cti:e arcas or other

J,

s
-,

180

dlfectons

On aJTlVal at the firs Port of Enty a yacht


should request a custons ocument tha~
covers all the ports to be VlSlted Ths may
lake som time The offiaas Lo Feooosa
understood the sr->tem. With tts paper at
each sbsequent port Irnrmgratoo w~ only
iook al the papers or can be called by VHF rf
on anchor. A yacht may be asked Lo check
OUI ol Crmea wten leavog the area Lo cruse
il thereslofUkrane,

o,r

biows III aM

Ths should be obtaned n advarce from the


Ukranan Embassy n the country of
Resdence or in Istanbul wth the help of
Atakoy M anna. In Istanbul the vsa nomally

wnd

All mtOfS lo Ukrnre must have il valJd VISa.

IL

1"",,1

FORMAlJTtES

L~

chosen aro::h:rage betore nighlfall.

PORTS OF ENT RY

Foodosla
Yala
Sevasopot

PROVISIONS

WJtygoodsa,ng.

Yevpatona
Skadosk
Qeako ...
.,..",

The

.1

The 600nM Black Sea coast of Ukraine


sreenng from Mariupolto the Oanube De~a
has plenty to ofter the cruising yadsman.
From Commercal Port to Isolated
anchorage !here is sheer lo be fourd each
nighl . always differenl bul always
samewhere lo go
NIght salls are
unnecessary
but il few earty moming
departures mav be required to react the

All owns and vllages have a market varyng


from smal to gg.antc where tocal produce s
soid. The choioe ol fresh fNlI and vegetable
S seasooal bul the Qualty vl!fY good, Seef.
lamb and pork are usually said n a sepaate
han n the market and lastes e~cellenl
alttoogh butchered dlferenlly to European
custom. Smoked iems of all knds abound.
chlckeo, ham. sausage and daese. Dary
produce is soId In another hall. Ap.art for the
mali<ets there are many provSon shops
that now replace the old style 'Soviet
supermarkels

TRAVEL
Wlh

mlemalonal

arpors

ai Kie ...,
Smferopol. Nkolayev and Odessa ravel to
and from Ukrane iS easy There are da/y
ftghls from Istanbul, In Cnmea most POr1S
have a direct road connecbon Lo the aport n
Smterapol by \rQIIeybus or bus. In westem
Ukrane aLi roads lead Lo Odassa so agan
transport to the arport is easy,
Trave by publ:: transport IS an expenence
and buses. trams and mltey buses are
atways crowded. Taxs come n aB shapes.
szes and condton and are also allordable.
TaXis do not have meers so agree prce III
advance
Be prepared lo haggle if

-~~
Where hete are no
often oll'er a lift.
settng off

allis

agan

Iocal people WL.


agree price before

dangers are inforned to Iha yad\.

&

181

COSTS

PEOPlE

In Ukrane coss for a European are ~ery law.


Everythng n the martet is nexpens~e and
n a restaurant iis po5slble lo choose what iS
desred wthout breakng Ihe budget. Only
wne in a restaurant can be expens~e,
Moorng lees are mnmal, if charged, except
in the manoa n Odessa bul e~en thal r;
reasonable. Desel iS also law pnced

The lacll ol loregn crusng yadls mean,


tha any yacht gets a good welcome. The
people are incredbly lneodly and whenever
a yachtsmoored

sameone will appear to see ii anythng 15


requued. olfen to stc:w the own or port
usually IoIkw There are not even many Iocal
bo.ats :rusing exeepl around Odessa end
the river deltas

MEDICAL SERVICES
In the many sanatoria and large modem
ports thefe are excelten! medical facik~es
whlCh are a~ailable for Cruislog yachts The
Medcal IMurance putdlased wth a vsa
gves free treatment bul only a designated
tosptals and doctoB. a IISI ol whoch s
obtaned on phonrg the numbef 01'1 the
Insorance Certfeae n Ke~

EAnNGOUT

LANGUAGE

Ukrane

Two languages are spoken


Ukra,nan

and

Russan

in

Salads and maa are finl class and mos


things are scrved with crean Portions are
large Fresh fish and fresh water crabs are a
oolcacy here and of course caviar

LLL

TIME

II

standard bme is GMT " 2

Ukrane.

bu

wnllout a
knowledge ofelher ~1 15 possb!e LO get by. In
mar1lets sgn language and actons wor1l
wonders and li stlJCk an Englsh or German
In the street
speaker will be produced.
English speakers approact o practce the
language by cassene,
In large towns same signs are in La~n script
as well as Cyrillk but not In the vlllages,

CHEKOV' S HOUSE

MONEY
In m..... "fh~ br!-CT lU"n.' h~rc UTC AT\I
so thcrc is no probkn in obiainlnI! cash.
Cred,! cards were also acceptable for
paymes of substantal amounlS

CURRENCY

The
rale

<O"

curency
o(

is the Grivna and In 200! the


uchange was
52 Gtivnas to

CHERSONESUS

LIVADIA PAlACE

182

183

PASSAGE NOTES

UKRAINE SECTION 1

RUSS1AN FEDERATION TO FEODOSIA

From NoYOfOS$lysk or Anapa o Feodosa


the route crosses the entrance \o the Kereh
Channel whch 1$ the counUy bourdary
between the Russan Federaton and
Uktaine

channal has numerous olfstore buoys


and !here are also large unlt shp moonng
buoys and 011 and gas platforms. West of
Anapa the C03slloe s low4ying Strong
rorther1y wndS fmquenlly funnel out of the
Kerchchannel.
ThS

-,

PASSAGE NOTES

j
184

and the hglll on

Ms

l'li has

ii

21nM. ffinge

The headlandsof Ms i and Ms KkAtlama


5nM south create Iocal changes in wind

sITength and dredcton.


When

12 nM. 01'1 call

Lebed on VHF saying

yad

name ftag of registry, number of


PeOPIe 00 board and ther naona~ty
(Leted is Coastguardl,

FEODOSIA TO CHORNOMOR5K'YE

The lopography of this area wlt spectacular


mounlans and attraclve owns and
anchorages requres special anentlon from
cruisng yachtsmen.
The harbouf5
of
Feodos a . Arlek, Massandra. Yana.
Balaclaya, SeyaSlopol, Yeypatona and
Chornomorsk'ye ofter good shener
everywhere else is open o wind and swell
from NE Itmugh SE lo SW The anchorages
and even the harbour ertrance5 can be
dangerous in seas of mora than 2 metres and
the harboUfS lhemselves in tese ccndons
virtually untenable

.1__ _

The approach to feodosia is straightfOfWrard

Do not miss ths SeCOOn of coast from the


cruise n settled ccndtons. whch are fIOi ",al
In Sunvner. bul dear 001 mmedatety if the
fOfecasl giVes strorg wnds The fore-I\Innef
of unsettled weather is sually a heavy swell
thastarts befOfe any wnd appeaf5
Clouds failng of iyng on the mouf1tan tops
also ndcale a dange. The hedaland Ms
Ayn Dag ( Bear Ponl) alMek iS well known
for Ihs effed.

The water al ths part ol the coast iS very


clear and deep. even 60meres alongslde

some of the Clfs. The coa!)1 line has few

outlylng rocks as far as Ms Khersoneswhich


has ii lew roclts and shallows marked by
Inslgntlcan!

south and west cardinal buoys


There rae \WO further rocky areas ciose to
Sevastopol and described in that section,
The daily sea breezes make lOt good sadng
wth ii change of dtection and strength a
each headland

After Sevastopol te tand LS much Iower "",th


cl"s or iong undy beaches beiow the Hal
country of the steppe SmaR toIday vlIages
abouncl and the vlIf)' l<:rge tradung staton
whet coven aU the Russ,an Space Hights s
COfl$pOCUOUs

The headland

mmad ae ly

wesl of

Yevpatona has an oII..fyng wreck and !here


is

a rocl:.y patd oft Ms Ta1tanhut where the

buoy iS ro Ionger n pos.UI)n.


Yeypatora s a yery good stop after
SeYastopol if on the way to Ocakov or
Chorromors'ke.
Drect

LO Chornomors'ke is a iong passage


wth no possble shelter as Donuslay is a
milllary area wth no enuy and OIeneYka Is
onlya fair weather hal.

185

FEODOSIA

FEODOSIA

A commercal harbour sluatad at the eastem end ol Cnmea and a Port of Enlly The edjaean
Naval Harbour is presenlly loroldden to yaehts Wa\ch out fo.- naval vessels whieh enter and
leave at hogh speed. Berthing Is alongslda or stem to the Commercial Pier urder the
conSP'CUOUS atnes.

Thectyolfeodosa, populatoo90

000,
$luallld at eastem end comer of Crimea ls a
very pleasanl mxture of sandy beaehes.
,ndustry. eleganl old houses and 5everal
muS6\JITIS. I! LS a dean and gresn own full ol
happy holiday makem.
ashore it is a pleasan! _ik through
treelned SIJeets lo the cty centre whoct hes
., a group of streets around the waterfront
ralway station with daily Ira,"s to Moscow
andKiev
Onc

_"""".;;;:::==:;-

fORMALfTlE$
lOCAl WINO AN-O CURRENT

i The prevailiog wiiid


enlering or departng feodosa the wnd
ehanges sddenly in both direction and
strength atOUnd Mys n headland
'Men

220V and 380V


Qo

and pO/ltoors wth sefVices for


yadls nstalled.

_ _ _ _ _ _---"

'.
.'
.

./

No ATM

machnes

are available bul sevaml


Bureau de Change have offices on the main
slJeet near the museurrn;
GSM telephone
SerV1Ce was available
Internet oonnecoons may be made n a
buldng opposte the City offlces it is in a
non ~Irlcted Naval building
Feodosa

The Museum of the Iocal artst Ayvazovsky.


famous for hs dramatic seascapes, is open

ii; an e~oetIenl place to amve n

C nmea due to the extenSlve servces


a~alable.

every day eleept Wednesday and ls well


worth a visot. sorms and Ioss ofships at sea
is the recumng theme n hS work He was
bom , I~ed and wcOled in f eodosla On the
same street are the Arehaeological Museum
and a Mu seum ol $eu l phre ol Hl)lna
together witt a Bunertly Museum and the
house where the romantie autho.- Alexander
Gren IIved. Several of his books have been
translated nlo German and Enghsh

mn.

.,
,

..... . ..............."!Ih: ...

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..... ..
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........,.

' Il

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~~

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dm~n a~~~e~

To the east ol the Port Entrance gale os \he


old town wth severa l old ehurehes .
mosques, the citadel and the runs of the old

penec

Nun'l&rOUS c:ales and restauranls oIfer the


eomplete range of meals from Macks o

sheler

This harbour WLII offer

A promeoade line<! wth pavemen ca/es and


backed by omae sanatona e:tends around
the large bay ol f eodosa
CIOSe to the
railway station there s a lerryboal whlCtl
takes swimmers lo edaeen beaches

The e~cellent market is opan e~ery dayand


had ii vel)l good selacton ollresh lrut and
vegetatles as well es a mat and dary hall.
Around !he mttet area are many shops
seliing donk$ and other supples.

1 _,"" ...~ ..

JR

"'~

i'o. " -..' _.of ......

""'1

.....'-,
FEODOSIA

186

N 45 01.9 : E 35" 23.09'

187

ORDJONIKIDZE FORMER NAVAL HARBOUR


Ths hartour

00 the

of Capa KyykAtlama ls protected by a Iong breakwater


and provdes excetten! shelter Safe approad' ls

rorth sde

w!tl

entry al tte western


N 44" 57.r E 35" 22.r

erd

Pnvalsabon as

ptanne<! and rt has been reported. bul not confirmed, to be apan for

vstog

2002.

yactlts

ORDJONIKIDZE BAY
An anchorage 00 the southside of Capa Kyyik-Atlama

The telty ls not sutabl& fOf


Enlerprises Tour boas

yadts

and tte large moonog buoys are for the use of Start

seWed wealher and is ooly sutable as an


ovemighl anc:torage n very settled weather or northeriy wnds. There is nothing o see
ashore that can not be seen from the safer anctorage ol KoIdobel.

tt is a pleasant spot fOf

swmml'l9 and retaxng n

ORDJONIKIDZE NAVAl

~.

iS

HAR"DuR

,,

-'

,,!

open from wes to soolheast.

Good
north.
Wilh W \iiind 17kls a

sett

..

made the

"'" d,,'9'''''''

\tansport ashore

--

-.-

i ...-,-,

".

ORDJONIKIDZE

ANCHORAGE

N 44" 57.7' : E 35 21 .1
ORDJONIKIDZE ANCHORAGE

sa

89

KOKTOBEL

KOKT08EL
A holiday vIIage stuated undar Karadag mountan wth the choice ol ancloriog in the sandy
bay of moonng on the outer half of an apan steel and concrete JeUy. Clearwater for swlmming
and a Ivel)' 'lillage ashore makes this a most atractive spol_

Koklobel is a lively holiday 'lillage wth plenly


o otler the crusng yachtsman.
Several
Ukraman saing yachts have their summer
basa here and are a uselul source 0/
rformalon a boul the surrounding
countryside.
Koktobel LS at the edge ol the Karadag
NaMe Reseve. Walks arouncl the reserva
are organised every day as well as flYing
expedions. This
Nature Reserve has a
number ol drllmac rock lomatons best
seen by a cruise around the stores of
Karadag ne Nature Re aNe aoo conta'lI1I
a DoIphinanum, an Aquanum and a Fa.n8
Museum which can be \llSted from the
anchotage a Kuroruoye

HAVtGATlON

of the area are the Iocat wne and


mndy, especaly the brandy trade ma~
Kokobel. avalable from the oca ma~et
west of the JUnction ol the road from the ety
to the main road to Feo::Iosa. There are
$8veral Bureau de Changa but no ATM
connectiOfl. GSM. howevar. wo~s.

In a pleasant wooden housel almost ofl the


51\o(e)
west of the Jety iS a museum
dedcated toMaxmlllan Veloshyn. a peinter
and wnter. and a teamom which serves
homemade Ukranan snacks. The beach
on the far eas sde iS the nudst area for the
Ukralll6.
Several kIometres away at 500m abave see
leve LS the Gler and Aeroplane museum.
Here one of the fifsl engineless Hights was
made and the a,rsmp became famous for the
varlous Russan areraf! designefs who
WOfIced here I was a tranng ground for the
fifsl asrooaus
Flighs by micro--craf!.
gliders and smaD planes can be made over
the surroundlng counryside at very
reasonable COSI

Speca1iles

The seli round KoktobAl 's Lin inleresbng


9COIoglcal ses as there ara maoy hot and
coid underwater ctrreots resultrg in a very
cleer see Tl'ere s e larga bologce! centre
based at the rlature reseva.

At the end of the etty there ara many local


women selling ther hamamada produce as
well as cafes and restauran ts of all
standards.

, ,

,
,

,
,

KOKTOBEL

190

- "

'.

s
.

,,

.f-

.'

" +.

/'

,,

---i" ....

N 44" 57.64 ": E 35 15.34'

191

SUOAK

KURORTNO'fE
Ths

anchofage s a convenlent spot for Ilisiting the dolphnarium and the FIora and Fauna
Museum associated wth the Nature Reserve of Karadag tt is also the startng point for the
orgaOlsad walk around the ReseNe elear waer makes for exceHent SWlmmng b.l the wat&!"
can be cooi due o the underground sprIngs
AnchoraboulN 44 54 4" E 35 11 6'

...:s .i-\'J it

A smail dusty vIIage wth il large Genoese FOI1ress bulltln the 14 ' and 15 oonunes. The
sceoory is dramalc wth towers and walls snilklrg up the hillside from the beach below.
There is a piled and decked Jelty with rusled and broken pites bul in setled weather iI s
possite lo he alongside n Ofder to vis' the Fortress
Any swet makes 11 poeot.ally
dangerouso II is possible lo anchor in the bay in 5 o 10 metro wth good holdng

ii>"

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~
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d....,

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+
o

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!

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_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

KURORTNO'fE

,-::::::;:'"::'::;:;;~:cJ

{)

N " 54.4 ; E 35" 11 .6

SUOAK

192

.'

.
. .-....
~

. 50.4: E 34 57085

193

AlUSHTA

AlUSHTA

Ths

large town 1$ spread elong the bayol A1ushta The lcwn P,er at poslon N 4440.12 ; E
342492 with 5 5matres depth alongsK:le 's not su,able for yochts e~cept al the head, The
desgn ol the per LS not yacht lnandly.
Tnere s. howaver. a Menna at the north end of the town whid iS partally bul! and oIfers same
snelter, One breakwater 's complete and ,s ava,lable for moong akngside

Alarge hilly town with many parks and


sanatona. A 6 Cenury evzan,ne Tower
stili stands near the Post office Mud ol the
sea front is taken up by alarge spons 8rea
used for !mning OIympic hopefuls in eLi

fie.,

Smferopollntematlonal

Airport is only 1
hour by trollay bus makng A1ushla a
conventent p18C& o change erew

on complation of the Marina it WiH be an


e.cele

Feodosa

stop beIwean

and

Yalta
The modem Post offoce has an Internet cafe
but as yatere are no ATM mad'nes The
town contans many shops. rastaUrtWllS.
cafes and a large market n the centre aboot
112 toorwatk from the manna.

~,~"~

Hartxurmaster

!here are plans to complete ths m.d needed


marina in the future There will then be berthlng
for 300 boats.

FUTURE PLANS

PARTENIT
A modem holidayviIIage wh sandy beachas 8!ld ebova water rocks Anchorwhere su,lable.
Sheltered from oorth and !lorlh east Sultabla fot e stop in set~ed weather

vSlI.

~.,_ .

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i
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....... _

AlUSHTA

194

... _ , _

.. ~~

.." "tv'

PARTENIT

N 44 34.32 ' : E 34 20.94'

N 44 40.49 : E 34" 25.35'

195

ARTEK

ARTEK

A smail pl'ivale harbour lhal welcomes I/lSl\O(S, The harbour belongs to lhe Artek International
Child Centre which operales from lhe rnany buildngs visible up the h,llsida behlnd the
harbour. 7500 children vlsit the camp in the summer months from all over the Ukraine and
Russla The harbour is packed wth oca yadts and motor ooals but the hartxurmast8l' will ft
in visiors somehow
The entry \o the harbour Is obvlous after rounding the rocky
Approac:h the harbour end on a NW coun.e

NAVlGATlON
Dargers in approach

&11 . l00m

on

slets

al N 44 296 ' E 34 17 g '

reducng

\o 6m

III

tatour

entrance Breakwaer baIlasng ectends 30m


SE and !here are two metal posts Lo whd
fishing nets are Iaid. $halaw water a enrarce
is mark.ed by a Red Buoy , ieave to Sarboard
on enterng.
The boas in the tarbour are on iatd moorngs

so there is Imled OO<TIIor manoeuvnng


Hazardous enlrance in

strorg

NE

wnds

wrth

ii Sear Mountan

The harbour a Anek is an excellent place to


saey leave a yachl although the provsons
avalable in the Chlldrens Viiiage are limited.
SWlmm.ng s good in th8 dean water at the
adJacent beaches and from Artek t lt easy lo
vrst the Botanc gardens of Yalta and the
nearby viiiage of Gurzul.
Gurzuf s 3 kilometre walk away, or go by
dnghy through the rocky islands
it is an
eXIJlmely attractive viiiage bult around the
bay erdosed by the Genoese C~f! at !ts
easem end. The strees lined wih wooden
Iouses are most atractive and wind up the
hillside owards M Roman.Kosh
(l54Smetres). ii is a magnel for writers and
artisis A iong sardy beach with many
jetues unsuitable lor yachlS. is backed by a
pleasan promenade Ined with restauranls

In ii park openng of! the promenade is the


Museum to Pushkn n Cnmea whd is
housed n adacha previously owned by Duc
de Rictelieu . formerly Govemor of Odessa
Chekhov's dacta near the foot of the
Genoese dilf can also be vislted
From Gurzuf II Is possible o vs! Yalta by
lOCaI fey ( knownasa kattery} ordolmus. In
Gurzuf there is a market eveyday and many
Bureau de Change end banks
At ALteI; Chddrens Gamp t is possble \o viSlI
the Gagann Centre where the trall'llng of
astrooJls is

Mly explared

Anak is a very good place for some rest


and the chldren are very we dscpllned
and do not nteriere wh life on board.

.,.-1

2 ... ch<

ARTEK

196

,.., . - ,

""4'

N 44 33.07' ; E 34 18.21 '

197

MASSANDRA (YALTA COMMERCIAL HARBOUR.)

MASSANDRA

When approachng Yalla call Yalta Harboufon VHF 16 or 14 and request permission 10g0 to
Massandra Harbour. Inside the Commercal Har1Xl.r a smail marina has been built cal~ the
Yach Club. bu space LS restncled and a ychl s saler n the Commercial hafbour This is the
harbour preferred by the Harbour Au!hootes for yactts For expiofallon of Yalta iis more
oonvenen\ to be n the Passenger lermnal n the centre of the Cdy_ Massandra is ii Port of
Entry for Ukrane and aner formalhes t mav be pos51b1e to proceod to the Passenger
Temlnal

The large Commerdal Harbour hes on the


ovtskrts of Yalta and altho.gh it boasts a
Yad! elub. there are no lacllioes for
yadltsman ashore All needs are me! in
Vatta whch is 1", hour away by Mini Bus
wtct s\arts outside the harbour gate

The Ych! Club LS c dcvolopment ol holiday

house! to renl w,th a very smail harbour,


mosUy used for swmming and Is occupied

by two day tour boals


The Passenger Terminal Iocated of) the
waterfronl n Yalta s prefernble place o
5tay as all f8QIl\es are wittin walking
dstance .

NAVIGATION

--;;-------;;~~~~:;;;;i."';;;;;;;;;;.,.C;;;;;;;;
oebris erterds W of the COnmer:iaI hartour

Oa~ n approact

Breakwater. Leave grooo tuoy to strt:oaro

N44-29_S': E34120'

over 2 mere5

22W and 380V mav be available on


From tap near
By canster and

gay.

: Repai~
Yalta.

,.,

MASSANDRA HARBOUR

""",..__ .R .....
~~,p--

....

.'.

MASSANDRA.

1
N " 29.S : E 34" 12.0'
SWALLOW'S NEST - YAlTA.

198

199

YAlTA PASSENGER PORT

YAlTA

Nes~ed on the CtJrving store ol Yalta Bay the setbng olYalta is s.pectacular. The Passenger

Yalta is a maor port in the Black Sea and


preVlOUsly ws the dasSICili resor! vsled by
\ha anstocracy and many artisis such as
loisloy, Chekhov and Raclmannov. After
the revoIutioo the elaborate palares became
sanaloria for the workers Again taday
extmvagant buildings are appearing as the
new elite continue the tradilion of Yatta as a
for tte rich and
exc:lusive hideawy
powerful

Term nalls slu.ated in the Harbour at lhe north end ol the bay. The breakwater IsconSPlCl.lOU5
wnh alarge Ilhta theend. When approadng Yatta call Yalta Radioon VHF 16, VHF 1415 the
worKing channelOf the Dspatcter who arraoges the Moonng pos.bon. Ths harbour iS a Pon

ofEntry

N 44-29.4' , E 34 10.3'
9.8 metTeS
VHF 16 and 14
Harbour is open from souteasl to soutwest when a
",..;,.",,~ swel and bad surge enleB the Harbour.

SHELTER

WlNDS AND CURRENTS

FOf a cruisrg yachlsman it is a petfoct piace


Lo VlSIt the only drawback belng the harbour
wtlct can. at times. be uncomlortable
the Iree lined streelS and aIO"9
the lengthy promenade iS a pleasure Snadi
bars and restaurants abound and manyan
hour can be span! in a pavamen co:fe peopie
watdng.

The excellenl marlo;et iS apan everyday and


has a wonderful selectan 015moked meals,
dieKen and fish as well as the usuallresh
lruit. vegelablesand mea1.

i Repars

To lhe wes\ ol Yalta there is a Ime of


Romanev family palaees and no s!ay In Yala
is :omplete w!thout a vislla Uvada Palace,
Vorolsov Palaee. Alupka Palaee and he
Botanc Gardens
The Chekev Museum is
anothef gem
sel in beautilul gardens.
Around every corer !here is somelhlng
mlereShng to see, be it museum. elaborae
church of !avish dada A good system of
public \!ansport makes viSlIS to ttese plaoes
easy and the destnatlOlls are well ndicatOO

_ ....... ...
.... -

u..,. ...... ""t A ....... .

....-"

L_~

,.........

A vs. \o tte lamous Massandr Vreyards


Wre lactcwy co:n alsa be arranged In !heir
wme nacbon about a mnion bottIes are
catalogued S8V6fS1 of tIem da~ng back to

The Dsney ....ke caste caiied \he swows


Nest 's 5tuck precanou51y on Avmrina mci;,
JU!ling 38 melre$ QOt over the sea it was bui/!
by a Russi!fl arcMect for an ndusnalist in
1912 andlSeas.tyseenlromthesea
The moun\a'n! behnd Yalta alsa offer a
dance for adventure and a vew ol the entire
Cnmean R,vera. The 1233 metre summl ol
M A-Petr can be approached bya 2 stage
cable car or by the mountan road wnch
curves amorgsllhe rocks and aocoem treas
Here walkng and horse ndng expedlions
can be made and the 0001 summe. a,r 's a
pleasure after the heat of the towr.
In the Oleander Hotel ar the ma,"
promenade there iS ar Internet Cafe and a
ATM machlre. hath open 24 hours per day.
GSM servce is good.

An ATM machne
Post 0fILCe

s alsa ava ilable n the

~.

A-.-

n""""

1775.

Walkng in

FORMAUTlES

In the srees and boulevards olYatta can be


lound an Impresslve Luthern kirlo;, a Poiish
Roman Cathohc Churc:l and an Armenian
OI'ttoclox church - en wfth magnificem

., ... ....--_

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"o

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LASPI

<AS"

Another children's camp where In earlier years li was a5sured you were for a high posltion II
~OU had been chosen o anend Ihe camp at LaSpl, In 2000 li has a shghtly broken down
appearance. wlh lew children and manyol the houses appeared \o be converted o holiday
homes. There is a brealcwaer gMng sheer lrom south wndS and a swmrmng pooi \o anctor
and be back o

ThS

smail holiday camp offers e~cellent


SWlmmng ln dear water and
secure
moonng Therels a verysmall shoplorbaslc
ptOVlsions and a smail restaurant offerlng all
mosts on the top lIOOr of the first building

TM afea around Ihe headland rocks and the


elear water makes for v6fy gOOO diving and
snorkelhng, A smail dMng dub iS situated n
the harbour.
The Mis and bays around make Laspi a
good harbour for a faw days of smple
e~pIoring

Rocks mr heac!!ands lo the south and west,


Beware of just-at:ove water coostructors
about l00metres north and r.... d east of
breakwater end.

N44'2S,l'. E 3342,S

6 metres,
VHF 16
open only to W.

witt

NW winds some slight

swell a!ongsde
Report o Lebed. VHF 16.

Coasguard

may

check papes.
The prevaling wind is SE. if Bear Mountan iS
weanng a doud hal exped slormy weather,

on brealcwater.

ii

on quay,

LASPI BAY FROM SOUTH

B cansler and tati,


Smai l workshop, Divirg tarks can be filled
, 20 grnna pe!" day includng shower .

'""""dll", water and

J
-r--.'':I ....-"....~
.e~'H

.....

O
N

"

~ "..-''''1 .. -

of'<" ~.. ~~..., _;

"

0: ................

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i"'" '''''''

LASPI

2.2

N 44" 25.1": E 33 42.5

2.3

6ALACLAVA

6ALACLAVA

This e~cellen harbour, offenng all roond sheller wth a yadl marina :alled Marina Golden
Symbol. s open Lo loreogn yilehis All !IICllltles are wthin wallung dstance of the marina
making ii en eKcellet plce for stoclung LLP with heavy goods such as ehampagre RegLllary
a bus leaves from outsde the manna for Sevaslapel. The joumey lakes aboJI Y. hoor
Te up e!her elongsode of stern o n the Manna as instructed by Harbourmaster

on approach the harbour enlranee s diffcUl1

it became a place of pilgnmage for many

famous wners such


ToIstoyand ChekhoV.

see

and only atler

passng

through the
narrow etrarx;e danne! s ite full sze of lhe
harbour eviden!. The manna 15 sluale<! n
the north easl comer ol the harbour

The hidden harbour of Saladava has been


dosed lo travelleffi for many years. Now n iii
open to foregn yachts and is an Ideal plce
to slay lo explore the surroundng arsa of
mountains and many sandy :ovm;.
A large Genoese fortress stands guard over
!he harbour entrance and clmblng to the
walls results in a wonderfui panorama of the
whoie bay. To walk lo the fon continue aiong
the waterside unlil the road tums ntoa path.
AI each juncton take the rlght foo and soon
the sleep path up the hlllside i5 eVldeft.
red marks indeate the way

some

as

Pushkin, Grin,

The Golden Symbol manna iS one of OOy two


marnas in Ukraine, the other bemg n
Odessa Waer and eiectricty are on ste
and a sman eafe offers sna.:ks, Secunty is
good &nd a yacht ean be!eft with confidence.

The lOCaI shops suppiy aa the basic needs


and for additional items it is an easy trip lnto
The Slreets ,re busy with
ho'idaymak~ and IocaIs have ounst ltems
for sale et !he road SIde

Sevastapo!

Oue to the sheller provided by the


surround'ng h~ls and resultant absence of
tool109 b'eezes the only potenlial drawback
of BalCIdav 'S thal hot days ean be
oppressve

Dunng the Cnmean War Baladava was


known as Smail London because I was a
favounte place for EngliSh aristocracy

Inlernet

Clfes

and ATM

machnes

are aLi

1I~lItlble n SevstaPO!.

repillrs through

1
i

i
.~

+.

BALACLAVA

204

,
C

- .,
"o"

~~
D,
N " 29.2': E 33 3S.9 '

205

GEORGIEVSKIY

SEYASTOPOL APPROACH.

beaulful
33~JO.41 ard

bay a N 44 ' 30.1 4


E
5et amongst spectacular
rocks ollen an anchorage for alunch \me
stop or ovemght n settled weather Do not
pass between the rocks and the shore as ths
passage is rock strewn and shallow Anchor
where sutable on a sandy boltom outs>de
the roped
swunmrg area, depth around
This

8""",,,

At the headland at Lhe west end ol the bay


amongst the rocks is excellen divng and rt is
possible lo anchor here and take a rope lo
the rocks. depth aroond 6 metres.
Above the anctorage iS., fTlOO3stery wth a
prominenl tetfry and t s pos.stie LO take the
dnghy ashore ard dirnb up a path LO vis/i lt.

on

The teach iS popular w.th Ukranars who


have dachas perched on the stewe-

'-

"",y...
(,;\l L"

f"~A""'~

,~ "+
+
+ +

"

cb

..,

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There 15 alsa a submanne exercse area


marked by 4 yeUow buoys. Pass north ol the
wo coricl marked buoys or south ol the 2
POIC buoys with X top mark.. 00 not enter the
.,rea in between. The central po5Jto ol ths
exdusionzoneis N44 37.2- E 33' 29.0
Note that yactts mav not enter the Freeport,
2nM. on the Sevilstopol skle ol Ms
Khersones

a Pan of Entry. s now open to


foreign yachlS and has many anctorages to
choose from On appro a chng Ihe
breakwaer call Sevastopol Port Control on
VHF 16 ard state your Intended desbnaton
n lhe hatour
ii eerg from otIsde
Ukrane. yeChIS muS! lin;t go lo the
Pas.senger Terminal to de ar Customs and
Immgraton Ttere.after it is possible to move
o anotler Iocaton Note all anchorages and
tettes are on the south side of the harbour,
the oorth 5hore s Navy controlled and
Sevasopo!.

fortdden.

.. r.

,. -. -

On ilppro<Ich to Sevastopol Breakwater


!here is il smail poe yellow ard black buoy
POSlton N44"36.9S E 33' 27.83 Ths marks
a dangeroos reef wth less water than shown
on the charts ard musl be passed on the
northside by al least 20 melres

-.

qJri ..H
. .'

1:2.

,,

GEORGIEVSKIY; - - - - - - - --

CJ'
'.l

J."
v

N 44 6 30.14': E 33" 30.41 '

1
fbmrng=r

ohi~

Ib"......

..",1 CI..b "".10' '

Ii,'" ui... ,....,.

c .....

'1<.c:* (;LU .. 'I'''!


,,",q--~

F"i o."I

... ~~r

206

207

YACHT ClUB SEVASTOPOl

SEVASTOPOl HARBQURS

The firsl anchorage for a

f.~"--

Ths

smail moonng place for yachts ciose


to the town centre
is in front of the
Dop/'nanum sluated ckse to the tawn
cenlre. Thedepth alongsidevaries from i
104 metres.

YACHTCLUB YUG

yadl when

apPfOadng Sevasopolis e Ya<;h

Club
Yug n omega Bay II Is e very pleasan!
ptace to stay but Is apan from NW when a
swell eners the bay

Mooring here is affected badty by the wash


of the many femes whdl enter and leave
from the adjaeenl pers.

rocks ile olf the headlands on


both Sldes of the enIrence and there is a
rocky patch in the mddle of the bay south
of the yadl dub ~ and etty.
Danger~

ii is a taxl ride to the centre of town of


PfOVsions mav be purctased In a StJburt
lkm away The club mebers are ah \/8fy
fiendly and helpful and it is posslble to 118
alongsl:le the 18t!y or be to one of ther
moorlngs n the bay_ The dub has a good
swimming area and a bar_ that also S8ves
meals In 8<k:Itlon!here is asauna for the
use ol dub members_ The Club iS one ol
the centres for OIynpic Trenng n the
Ukrane and the 470 Wood Champons of
1999ara basedlhere

s -..,.

"""1d''''I

~."

.......

........

:..,.

- <''''':I """.....

N . 36.95: E 33" 31 .25

....:

: -i-

_ .

. +-1-1-:

.. .... ..

SE VASTOPOl PASSENGER SH IP
TERMINAL

YACHT ClUB YUG

N 44" 36.46 : E 33" 26.33

The north cardnal buoy on the approach to


the Passenger Tenninal must be laft lo
slarboard by all vessels as rcl.s extand lo
the buoy
All yachl:; whO have nol checked mo
Uluilne MUST
Ie up here firs for
Immgrillon and Customs formal ilies
Te alorgsde where ndcaled
Very convenenl lor the tawn, bul
un;omfortable
movemenl due o naval
ships and femes ffiOIIing around

_c_.,
(

.:;

........
.....

,)

"

'J
'o

.-.pt

f""'- .....,.". ,.)

... a-,

:::J1I

loho~"c 1~_Wpd
fo~

...,

='"

--

PASSENGER TERMINAL

N 44" 36.94' : E 33" 31 .63

USHAKOVA BAlKA

.,

RUSSIAN NAVYYACHT ClUB

Ths moorng poston

15 siluated away
from the buslle of the harbour
The
secunty 15 good and after a sho't wa!k up
the hU there is plenty of transport lOto
Sevastopot. Here t 's possibla to arctor
and \le bad<. to the swmming pooi, OJ
altematvely be atongside the jetty or

Ths yactt club iS ar the S\arboard skie just


alter enenng the m8SSl\le tweakwater lhat
PfOeclS the large tlartJo..- 015ellastopol_

0
- -- -,

.. -

.-

"'""i

D ""'~,,_ .....

(2. !OOd, ~)

RUSSIAN NAVY Ye

Obtaning

any proVlSlOns enlals a walk up


the hill 10 same smail shops
Water and electncty are avalable end a
public telephone .
Offcials \Yili call at lhe yachl on amval

'"

"

"

L.

"""""''''I
.....,

i...

",,"'"

i,

"..,....: '='V'-'

;""3'

L ,

Water and electndy mav be avalable and


desel,s by can,sler and ta~1

_ ...... :o-'~CO;"''''"n.,,~

The tlartour offers the best &hellar ,n


Sevilslopot and Lhe members ere very
friendly_

YACH T ClUB SEVASTOPOL

it Is po5Sjble to be alongsde the IIoatng


pooon
Local yadlS ile to moonngs t
the per and a lllOOf,ng mav be avaijable

.-

.s..:.., .... ~

,.,

. . -1
,...le
~

U5HAKOVA BAlKA

N 44 37.00 ; E 33" 32.78 '

N 44" 37.07' ; E 33 30.80 '

208

209

SEVASTOPOl
Sevasopol. a Port OL Entry,
almos ~ milllon resdents
ineresbng touris Sights to offer

a cy wilh
has many
the cruislng
yacttsman The town, prevlOUsly home of
the Sovie Black
Fleet has a iong navat
hstory LLS Iate wlls _ii reoorded in the
Crimean War when the town was besleged
and bombarded lor 349 clays by the Brihsh.
Frenc:t and Turks, The Museum of the Btck
ses F1eet one of the oIdesl in UkraltK!
commemorates ths sege.

sea

The delence of Sevastopol in the Cnmean


War is eltCefleolly depicted in the cmIar
panorama on Istor\chesky Boulevard and
should not be mssed
Lalef ths deVastation was repeaed when
the town lell o the Germans alter ii sege of
250days .,I942
Nowadays manyolthe buldngs have belffi
resored to thelr oginal 9~, espec:lally
those along the picturesque waterfront.
Every year on the Ist Sunday of July the
Black Sea Fleet Revew takes place This is
a holiday in the cly and the harboor is lined
wlh ttoJsands of peapte watching the
powerfl exhbllon ollhe Black Sea Fleet in
waer and In air.
The hrbour is cIosed on
thisdayand for a fewdays befare. Wamlngs
are glven on Navtex and. as ilve ammunitlOl'l
Is uSed. these warn,ngs mus be taken
senously. it S wothwtile \o plan thal the
yacht is n Sevastopoi on this date as there is
plenty \o see all clay In the evenng \here is
an opeo r c.onceft perfolOO by the choifl
and clancefl ol the Navy conch,ldng wth a
firewJf1l.s elisplay

Extensve

excavatioos are taking ptace a


ths sght and the Cathedral ol Peter and Pau
s beng restored lo become a Palace ol
Cultura This cturch was the ste of the first
Russlan Orthodox Church

an

The busmng town has


the Iaclbes ii
tou1st requifes
AA ATM mchrl8 n the
Sevastopol Hotel. many bureau de enange,
Trava! Agents \o assst wth ravels nSle
and outside of Ukrame GSM coverage is

""'-

The shops n the tree Imed streats have


brarches of Irtematonal names and the
supermarKets carry a wde rarge ollmpor1ed
produce. The mal<.et. sluated dose o the
watersde. has the usual fresh fruits and
vegetables as well as dairy and mea halis
Along sde ths marKet is a bazaar sellng all
types ol goOO.

ABOVE YALTA

Sevastopol is an exciling and vibrant place o


vst, especially lo see the way ol hle whch
has beer unloucled by European culture LOf
manyyears.

,
,

Ir

Sevaslopo! there iS a Yacht Chandler thal


stocks HarKen and Iocally made boal fittngs,
He Is a Chart Agent for Russan Charts and
is stuated elose to the Oolphnarum n the
Main Square.

,
,

OKURA AT Y.C. YUG

on Ihe watefront are a dolptnanum wth


dly shows. numerou ca fe and
restaurants and many people selhng
souvenifl
Travel around the extef1Slve town can esily
be done by troIley bus or reasonably prioed
taxs

Three klomelre, from the centre of


Sevastopol is the Stae Hisotica) and
Ardaeoiogocal Musaum ol Khersones. slghl
of the old Greak town ol Chersonews.
lounded n 422 BC,The anelent elty s
situaled dramahcally on a penlnsula at the
entrance to the hllrbour and is surrounded by
sndy beaches makng Ila popularspot lora
dayout.

210

S EVASTOPOL WAT ERFRONT

21 1

NIKOLAEVkA

YEVPATORIA

A holidayand sanatorium resortstretehing aloog a sardy beaeh. There sa 5OmJEl!tywth 4 4


metres alongslde whefe a yaeht may lie but because ol the many swmmers rt iS prelerable to
achor \o the ortt of the Jety A partiaUy built breakwtef hes ot! the jely There appear lo be
no otl-lylng obstruclons from this COIlstruclion in Summer 2000,

the west ooast ol Crimea this town otfers same stelter from the prevailng winds
" is used often by Iocal crulsng yachts of ther way to and Irom Odessa There is a ioog
commercial per where yachts may tie up The metal JEltly protrudng nto the bay is use<! by
Iocal ct.arter yaehts and iS not advised for ",stng IOfegn yilehis Call Harbour Corol on
VHF14 beloreenlenng

As the coasttne is completely open this is only ol use as a lurch stop of over nght n settled
weather Good dearwater fOf sWlmmng

Stuate<! ar

There s a lOCaI yacht dub whch may have moorlngs available after the yadt has checked in
wth lmmgraton.

:~N~
A~~GA
~TK>N
~~~~__________-,,,. .",,",,
Dargers

A partally compIeed breakwatllf bes off !he

in approec:h

Ecrdnal

N 45'10 62 'E322295'
buoy (pos.N 45' 11 .29'
red buoy on entenng the
Thes ma1l an obsructon oH

SERVICES

--

'.~ ,d

11

~.=-\\

,
"

'"

r>e\,O """'S~

~ .

-,;.,en'" i

",,

(' ,h'

"
"

...... , '"i

t-"-L"~4.
~..,
,. ~.

....

:-~."

~~

! ... ,.,.~ .... Cu~~"'S


'f<>do.~

Glut>

.,.~ C~ ~-.o.'1

Ao,.. of(' -...- ...... '

t", .. _ "

NIKOLAEVKA
N 44 57.6 ': E 33 36.2'

..- f<>:-

i
YEVPATORIA

212

-_..........

M :.O,It.M_I

fo! """""',,, ...... "","",,,,!

IM>n ~,.r''''l !i.....~i-

N 45 4 11.24': E 32 22.80 '


213

OlENEVKA

YEVPATORIA
YevpatOlla s an arclen eharming ciy with a
range of architecure oovering the diyerse
cunures of Crlmea The city s\reehes arourd
\he bay bul the old own Is ciose to the

"'''bo,,,

The firs vew from sea is of the rwo churches


and the fine domes ol S Nicholas Cathedral
built in 1893 as well as the mrarats of the
Ozham Mosque.1he largesln Ukrane, buiH
in 1552 Both houses of WOBhp are based
on \he same buldng, the Haga sophia

There is Interne service at the Post Office


ard there are m;:ny bureau de change bul no
ATM The post office and telephone offICe
are stuated mnediately behnd \he harbour
M any ge neral
restauranls are

provson
stuatad

shops and
on the man

shoppng stree

From Yevpatona ii is poSSlble to vstlhe


Inlancl lake where medICIfIat mud baths are
available.

ThS

sandy bay offers an anchorage in S meres 200 o 300 metres oflshare wherever the
swe ssems \eas
Campers line the shores as good dlvlng is reporled around Ms
Taithanku\ ThS s a larweatherstop and Ihere is nocorrectlon to Lebed, no authorilies and
ro GSM sevce A nice f~ng of an isolasd anchotage although the beach is hned wth
~m"""

"::r. :::~:: ::.::::; :~,:;;::~:

When entenng
the
mafked
by a buoy.

Accordng

to the charts these are

buoy s mssng

(Note Lake Donustav is a Nval base and forbids foreign venels. There is a smail
commercial harbour on W. ide of enlr.nce butdo nolenler.)

Cathe.iralnstanl:ul

At Matveeva Streel 68 iS the 18 Century


prayer house of the Karate Jewsl' see! who
were aarty senters n ths area This is at
present beng beau~fully restored InSide
\he ntneale gaeway an 8rcted coortyard
ard adjacent ~ ol smail restaurant servng

i'

Karatafood,

, .,.

fo-

s s ,,",

OlENEVKA

214

N 45 22" : E 32 30"

215

CHORNOMORS'KE

CHORNOMORS'KE

Ths

away from Lhe main holiday


areas of Crirrea has a charm of Its own On
enteong the bay where the naval harbour is
Muaed. a jetty is evidenl protrUdlng from the
tongsandybeact Thsjettyis ,nbad repar
and would no be sutable for a yect even if
tt-e s enough water The depth s only
about 15 metres at the eltlrema and and
mud Io;s along the rest of the Ienglh Ths
Jelty iS used by the Iocal salng dub and for
laundng the rescue boot

is Ihe las port n Cnmea and offers good sheller, especally in the Naval Herbour The
enchorage s also prolected and offers a sandy bottom. The wnd in the bay s often stronger
than outside beca.se of the shape of the surro.ndng land.
Snce vs!ed n

2000 a pnvae company has Instalteli a pootoon lor yachts in the Nayal

Harbour. Therels6m . AIoogSlde.

Buoy

n postion

ro:ks

off the shore Enter on COUrs9 of


i

N45'31.47' E 32' 41.94 marlls


an:und

Naval Bya commander .


Eo:cellert all round shelter.
Cusloms and IrT"iIDgralion may YiSiI yectl
Report \o lebed.Sectnly may also vist as
this is a Nayal base
The prevailng wnd s soothe1y. The harbour
seems lo create a Iocal acoeleraior of ths

FORMALlTlES

~""

Ths Yllage.

In the Naval Harbour. pmsently full of shps


not in use. tere s an alteellen swmlTllng
bead wtch can be used wth permsson of
the Naval Base Commander. ii s only e
short walk Irom the moonng poston.

The pleasant lown has no hgh nse

buldngs

and bul plenty ol smail houses Wllh gardns.


II has the kxk of a town where progress has
passed it by. Amongst the houses are many
smail shops and amnd the Tcwn Square
are several stells selling fresh 'rult and
vegelables
The mar1<.et dose \o the harbour Is open
eyery day from 7am o 2pm bul an earty Visl
s necessary belore supphes run out
Here
there s a hmlad supply ol meat and chctcen
but allhe far end of the man slreet anolher
!4 hour walk iS the large regonal marke
where everythng iS available al attractye
pnres. Whle walkng to ths markat there
are several cafes thal sal draught Wlni!.
whch s recommended. As taus ere dff::ul
to fird a Iocal car may offer transport back \o
the harbou,.
Sugges il pn:;e before

.f/

There s a Museum wth well presented facts


abou\ the area and s Church whid was no!
been destroyed;n the wsrs as ii wss valued
as a navgaton ald. NoIa that it forms one
mark of one of the !eadng hnes for the
harbour.

At the far enel of the beact te-e are aroen\


ruins thal are stowy bellg eltcavated These
runs belong o a iort bull n 400BC by the
Greeks to relieVli pressure of oveuo.Ydng
in the city at Ctel'SOfle5US (near Sevasopol).
The Skiefs wto heid the inlrior of erimea
then firaDy took control of the !ort in 200AD
after many skrmishes witt the Greeks over
control ol this xrtRuins of houses and sgns of agnct.llure
have bBen lound by arctaeologsts working
In thearea
There Is no Inernet cefe or GSM xverage
bul msny buree. da change along the
watarfront

As ths iS s Vry popular sc.ba diving area


n Cnmea wth many groltos to be explored
cylnde~ cen easly be fIIed.

a:ceptrg.

i
CHORNOMORS ' KE

N 45" 32.0 : E 32" 41 .4 '

ANCIENT RUINS

216

217

PASSAGE NOTES
CHOANOMORSK'YE TO UST DUNAYSK AND DANUBE OElTA

UKRAINE SECTION 2

"
,

The backdrop now changes to be Iow-lyng


wth shallow areas ofl the mouths of several
large rivers The prevalrg wnd s north
westetly and the shallow water as far as Mis
Tendrov bulds up a steep sea n frestl wndS

,,,
~"

,
",

<

The iong eoast ol Tendrovskiy ofleB no


where to slop bul once Ieve! wth the
headand shelter can be found
AIthough
SkOOosk s not on the dird. route it is an
inereslng plaoo LO vsit and lhere ere
sevilfal andornges in the Yicinty

~
",
~

>
-"

,,,,
L

"~]

di,

p-

~-

The area nonh ol Tendrovskry


offers
eeelienI eruising wi l h anehorages at
Barazan Island and Berezans'ky)' man.
The rivers Ingul and Dnaper have many
anchorage s ard harbours togelher wth the
large towns ol N kolayev on the Bug and
Kherson on the Omeper IOf supplies From
Kherson iI iS also possble to sail to K ev If
the yachs ar drafl aows t under Ihe many

bridges.

"

1
~

.
~

,
.~

z ,

218

sandy beadcs and


shallow water elllands a iong
off The
tand behond is Ilat wth lew pmminent
features.
In SUrTVner 2000 many of the
buoys on the charts were missng bUI the
buoyed passages lno the harbours were
well mantaned.

The $hore is

~ned wth

wav

Good shelter can be fOUnd ~ the commercal

8010re l eavng port lo sail


toward
Tendrovskiy ChedI with lebed about dcsed
mltary pradce areas as notce mav not
have been issued on Navte

,,

From Tendrov west and south an ncrease Lo


the number of tommercal vossals s evdem
due to the pro~imly of the commercal ports
of Port Yuzny, Odes.sa, and Port lIIdevsk.
These ports are all
e~tramely My wth many shps archored
ofl watng nstru::tons.

,-,

The rou!e Irom Nkolayev o Kharson


nvotves two buoyed channels and although
iI is tempbng to cu! comer5, in laCI. same
charts show a roue. slck to te chaonel as
the shallow w ater oulside the buoyed
channel s covered wth lishing raps end
rets ofvarious Iypes. sone an mar1:.ect wth
black flags and other5 not and once n thos
area it s like a maze to escape Wth the
heavy sediment in the waler l is mposstle
to see the prop if it has lo be deared

harbours and Odessa has the one of the two


marinas in Ukralne Apan Irom the manna.
Odessa has many interestng thngs to see
and should no be miSSed
Souhwards

Irom

Ddess a

Ihe eoas!
becomes towty ng agan passng the large
commerciat port of llliehevsk and the
entrance to the Onevstrovsky liman. An
Interes!ng passage leads to the ancienl
town ol 6ol9O'od Onevstrovskiy which is at
the navl9llble hmtollhe Ilman. The channel
to Modova s slted and has no depth.
East of the antrance and 5nM offshore is a
iong shallow bank mar1:.ed by north and

south cardnal buoys.


contnues

soulhwatds \o US!
[)unaysk. now the entry to the river Oaoube
Oelta rnar1:.ed by a buoyed charnel. An
earty depature from Be!gotod Onevstrovsky
wth passage through the brdge at firs
operung ellows enough bme for the passage
to Us Ounaysk and pock up the channe!
buoys ir good lighl.

The ,horelme

"

219

SKADOSK

APPROACH TO SKADOSK
S,luaed

(o8

....
"

'-1-

: ID

;
,,

<

'"

counn e s.

!iPOt for several days to enable runnng repars to be done .


Djarilgach Island wth ,Is two hghthouses, (one ok ,one new wlth new

Ths LS an ex:elleft relaxaton

<>nce

pas

ctaraaerislics al tlshng every 6

the neXl booy). Ospatchef wi mmge moonog poston . AItho.gh!his is il


harbour it is verydean and the auttortes are most .... eIooming.

~ ".>

5uggested

waypons

rtl _

.
'-

. .,

' ")

"

..

... "

, ~
.,

"

,,

'" "

"

,,'

~,

U
.0

i
..
,\ ,

,-..

N 46' OCr

E 33' 05 S-

N 46' 03-

E 33' OS S"

Farway

N 46' 04 S' E 32' 54 02"

Buoy

R and G
G
Harbour entrance

N 46' 05.83" E 32' 54 53

75 meres

N 46'06'"

E 32' 54 61-

65 metres

N 46' 06 25'

E 32' 54 SO

As an alternative lo the harbou. anchor west of the buoyed area

n 4 lo 6Il1tilre;.

lt rnay be necessary for a yachl to leave the harbour and anchoroff when a large ferry arrives
or departs. Adequale warnirg o f this eventualty is gveo,

i :

. i 1

,
LS'

'\

,,'

.... _.

..
..

by
Commercial

for the passage are

SE of sland
NE of sland

'~ _~
',,_ o.

allaesI

From here the Harbour entrarce buoys are

oL
~

seconds and no Ionger sectored)!he passage is buoyed.

Contact Skadosk Radio 1 on VHF16 at firs buoy pas the I;ghthouse if possible,(

,
,

i ~ r

C)

"

i. jz

'

"-

9nM from the enlrance ol 0anlgch Bay the commerca l port of Skadosk s il
pleasant spot lo ~isil The port was fOUnde(! in the 19" century for the export ol cattle and
sheep tod ay ii s a modem oonnection on the rade roule from Turkey lo !he Russian

z _
0-

: i

;i

.'i

-,
"

,
, ,

:1

:i

"

A
!

.
o

i
220

22\

SKAOQSK

SKADOSK
The port of Skadosk LS a wonderful place lO
relax, This small town bull along Ihe 5andy
ooad WlIh the sMllow dean water 15 a
haven for dldren's holidays. There ClI"e
many hotels and sanatorium aterng
espedally for dildren.

The modem Mrbour dose to the town centre


Cu5toms and Immgraton WI \/isLi yadt
Report o lebed VHF 16 ll"is is the first port
in Ukrane alter leawg Cnmea so papen: wll
be nspected and a new CI_ tist requesad
south to south west Smail wavelEts may
_ _ dE o<eiop dunng the day bul ie at rM

fORMAUT1ES

lOCAl WlND AND CURRENT


SERVlCES

i Ele;;tn;ty

220 v available.
Water by hose from tap n NIN :omer ol
",,,bo..,

ads as an enlrance inlo this area of Ukrane,


Ead week two large shps from Turkey. one
from Istanbul with passcngcrs and argo.
anel the oher a ro-m type from Zonguldak
amve and transform the town from a sleepy
bttle viIIage to an Ihnvng town Lomes from
a over Eumpe anel the Mddle East roll
through the stteets The harbou, is so well
organsed to deal wth thS traffic that they
even have sgns up for the ....ayout ol own
avoidng the tourst areas

are n the harbour buildngs


and there iS even abank. open when the
shps are n, for money exdang,

All

auttotes

For a yadt the besI bme lo be here 15 cL

In Skaosk there cre many shaps and a


market whd 15 dosed on Mond ays The
promerade Is lined wlh restaurants, one of
whd. The Gull. has an Internet cafe
attad'.ed There is no GSM. There are many
Bureau de dange and several banks
Inc:ludlng the one in the harbour, The modem
Post Offie in Gagann Street has an Inlernel
Shop which also sells oompuler supplies
soct as pfiIlt8f cartridges and rompuer bits.
The oca museum is most ineresling as it
tells the tslOty of the Shdosk family and of
ther founelng of the town, it iS well displayed
and makes the stay n Skadosk all the mora
nteresbng

There iS

yac:ht dub YE Seaport


Skad06k, on the east sde of the harbovr and
several Iocat yadts Lie on moonogs off the

_.

As Skadosk iS a smaJl town everyttng s


wthn reasonable walkng dstarce and wth
the tree lined sreets and many parks li iS
mostattratve,

the weekend when there is no oommeral


traffi II is poss ible lo andor dose lo the
buoyed dannelln the rare ase thal Ihe
harbour master annol find a spot for ci
yadt to tie alongside

Adaer o Ihe harbour is il Iong etty with an

old hotel Ship moored o lt. From this jetty a


boat goes regula1y o Oarilgan Island whid
proets the bay The trip takes abou Y. hour
and on the Istand are good beaches for
swlmmlng In the sumrner anel in the aulumn
it 1$ a favoune place for hunting There is
aso smail caf{ ashore A yclt cook! anchor
tere n 4 melres
POS N 46'02 55. E 32' 56 24

_
.....
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222

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SKADOSK

....
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a tocat

. ... $ . .

N 46" 06.25 : E 32" 54.60 '

223

DJARI LGAN ISLANO

TENOROVSKIV
ThS Ioog,

This Island, 45 kilometres lan9 and 6


kilometres SI Its wides, ste~eJ1; the bsy of
Olanlgsn snd erestes a lagoon wth a
maximum deplh of 8 melres In wner the
Is!and is a famous spo for hvntng ss rt s the
hsbitat for many blfds end snmals IrcIodng
wjjj boar and 99f In wmmar rt s Visted by
many C3rnp9f$ end fisheeo wto find 11
good selecton of rst. A Iocal cIeIcacy is Cfilb
found alorg the ses shore in abundaoce,

Ashore a palh meanders to Ihe seaward


side of the island where there is a spring wth
pure, c:old mneral water beside the wo
Ighlhouses and under a wooden
topped
welL. The seaward area is excel~t for
swmmng as the water s dear and the
bottomwho.l weed, Ttere are many paths
to explore around the sland wtd n
summer s home to may dfferent seabirds,

Another anctornge on the sland is by the


etty for \he ferry boot n 4 meres, paston
N 46 "02.55'. E 32' 56,24

Unfortunately the narrow gap at the west


end of the Island shown on some eharts is
ck;nd so the only eolrance inlo the lagoor
as by the easl end,

drector.

along the ooast two lighthooses are


visible, Tendrovskiy lt, with bladc and white
horizonlal stripes. and Mis Teodrov a lattlce
struc:!we, Because of the Iow.tylng !and the
light furthef nortt on Kinbumsksya is alsa
visible
Salng

00 the

Ths wtoIe

area s excellent for day salng


and sWlmmng and wth a shoal drafl yaeh
many more anchorages wouk:l be avalable,

AI the eas end of the ISIand in the iagoon is


an anchor;ge n 2 to 4 metres sand WIth
wee:ly patches, pasilon
N 46' 010
E 33' 04 15 I is best approaehed on a
heading of230' from
N 46'01,8

law Iying arm of sandy beaehes


stretehes for 90 kilometres from Djanlgan
Island Lo Ms Terdrov. The shallow deplhs
along eac.h sde of the pennsvla oft"er
anchorages dependng on the wnd

many booys are showr bul


they were al mssing excepl for a smail reel
concal buoy
i cable offshore from
Terdrovskry.
Beware of rocks exendng
essl from Ms Tendrov thst ~ p.-e\llOU$jy

In the andorage on the east 5ide of Ms


Tendrovshellerfrom the waves can be found
atpostlOnN 46'20.3T . E3I ' 32.56'ofIan
old mlitay camp in 6 metres. Excellent
shelterfrom the wesl.

spil no langer marked by a buoy

Fur1her north halfway along the wesl fare of


Krbumskaya Kasa st abool N 46 "30' \here
16 e sandy beact wth deeper water dose
nshore woere sOCOOong s recommended n
settled weathef and n ofIshofe wonds
Unfortunately rowte-e n !tus area olfers
good shelter from rorttetty wrds. n whd
case the best arctorage wou1d west of
Barazar Island.

ctarts

"",ed

E 33' OS 7 ' o avoid a $hallaw

Three rur1her anchorages suitable in south to


west winds and retommended by Iotal
yaehtsmen are shown on the sketeh plan.

This Is beautful area for rest and relaxator


and Is a favoure anchorage for Iotal yaehts
from Odessa who come for the weekend to
f1$h and swtm
A Nature Reserve :overs
57.000
hectares of the estuary. This
Reserve was established In 1927 lo prolect
vsrlous species of mlgraling blrds nere is
restrcted access to the Reserve

II is advsable to call1ebed on Charmel16


o inlorn hm of your snchorage poston.

"

..

If the wind is from the east am::hor


west side of Ms Tendrov.

..
'B

on Ihe

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oM

OJARILGAN ISLAND

N 46" 01 .0 : E 33" 04.15

.J
MIS TENOROV LT.

224

N 46" 21 .9 ': E 31 " 32


225

ANCHORAGES INlH E 8UG-ONIEPER LIMAN ENlRANCE


AI the enlrance lo the Lman are several anchorages which were recommended ..
Unforturuely.

BUG - ONIEPER LIMAN ENTRANCE AND BEREZANSK'YY LIMAN

because of ver'! slrong wnds and mted ~me, Okura was unabit! lo visil
Berezans'kyy Uman where we were InfQrmed it iS possblt! lo anchor in many bays off the
buoyed danne! wth excellen fish ng and swmmng. The channal to this liman is well buoyed
and dredged o 4 metres.

The archorage a Barazan is on the wes sde of the sland of! a sman,etty wl 3 metres. Beware
of the fish larm on enlemg and of the offlyng rocks. Good shelter wl NW winds good
SWlmmng and listing A lavourite spot foryads from Odessa.
Steter

from

norterl1es

iS alsa good In the bay beweeo Ms Adzhyask and Barazan Is/and n

4metres

tf leavng the Bug- Dneper Uman INlth a sttong west wind II is possble nsead to archor JUsI
olf the buoyed ctanrel dose to Buny i 5 This sandy Sptl olfers shelter from the sea and the

N
,

anchorage is shared only by thousands ol birds resting here fOf the neld. part ol !heir mgratory
!np. When entenng the over thS is alsa an alternative o Ocakov if the hours of darluass are
approadng for the passcge to Nkoayev or KetSOrl

"

.
II' S

...

,: ,<?

30'

,.

..'

,,

~i

The well sheered harbour on the smail sland ( Pervonyskiy) In the entronce of the Bug
Dnlaper Uman s stnctly fOfbdden. ThS is a Naval harbour and provides security for the
whole area.

.....
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BARAZAN ISLANO

226

"'" "P',,:

-'-"""-"

c)1 .....

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."

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--

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N 46 35.9 ' : E 31 ~ 24.3'

227

OCAKOY

BUG - DNIEPER LIMAN

on the passage up the rvers to 8!thar Nikolayev of Khersoo. Ocakov s ii convenien place lo
stop There are three h.arbours on the penlnsula of Ocakov. ii Commercial port, ii Naval Port
and ii new port Iocally called Damba or the new harbour Yactts stopprg al Qcakov musl go

lo Port Dmba lt LS il pnvale harbour

z _,_

,,

ocu nSIde

<

the harbour !here is ii iong coocrele qu.ay to be Ioogsde. Harbour msterWlII

ndcate pos,ton

.1
O"

To enter port Damba leave the dredged channel at N 46' 35 45" E 31"36,55 near channe!
buoy No 30,( the depth drops inmedately to 5 metres). and kllaw the red vertc<l smpe<!
leadng hnes Bewan the Isolate<! danger marked by bI&ckJredJblack buoy. AI poston
N 4S"36,61)" E 31 ' 35 74' thefe is a red and wnte larway buoy The deplh at ihe harbour
enlJ3nce s 4 ,5 metres

port Damba is now the control port for aLi Ukraloe and foreign yaclts entenrg ot departing
from ports in the Dneiper and Bug Rvers it LS a Port of Entry If alr63dy officaMy entered
Ukraire it is nol compulsxy to stop bul. il yachl must report to Lebed VHF16.

The harbour is dredged to 5,5metres and gNes good sheller

marked by

,LJ

.
i

,, s~
11
,

,,

11" , ,!,
~

'

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nearty Fllng

r _

i<o-~

!,

"-

p-

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COSTS

i rn:; l ud ng

water.

"

228

"

229

PASSAGE NOTES

OCAKDV
Ths!own wtc;t

Iooics so large and a!trache


from !he dstance iS n realty a smail country
vIIage C(Iverng a very wde re
The
pop.laton of 15,000 iS spread over an rea
whd would i)()i ally support a popuIatoo of
50,000. The many pa~s and the steep
roads o the Yillage from the wateBide a<kl
o the feetng of spacousness.
Damba Harbour is about Smnues by bus
from the centre wtlch has only a vey ~mled
number of shops mos of wtlct seemed to
be dosed in the afternoon

also open only n lhe mornng.


The Bark of Ukrane. open only n the
momng has a Bureau de Change bul Ihere
are no ATM machnes. Internet c:onnecton
isrolavaitate, noris GSM

NIKOLAYEV AND KHERSON.

Th ma~el is

There is asma. Museum anel An g.allefy


whlct is nicety pIl!serled and shows the
workS of a Iocal artsl who dled in 1870

it is a pleasanl piace to wander around


there are few restaurants and cates

bu

These flvers are both vBfY weLL buoyed.


Altough mary of the buoys and the leadng
lines are Il a nght passage s nol
recommended. especally lo Kherson where
several of the buoys are unll and vey
dlfcufl to see.
The riveJ to Nikolayev s twsng and has a
alrrert of around
1 Iuot lIOWing ino the
Black Sea_ There are many shipyards and a
targe aluminium works and the channefs o
those are separaety buoyed There is an
anchorage SW of buoys 85 and 86. pos<lion
N 46' 43 g. E 31 ' 52.0 in 3 o 4 metres and
also a big ship anctorage r-LW of buoys 105
and 106 positior N 4650.6. E 31'55.0 in
Smetres

The roule from Nkolayev


to Kherson
nvoivas wo bvoyed mannels and afltough
~115 emptng o OJt the comeJ near Ocakov. in
facl sorne charts evefl show a suggeste<!
roue, sck o the buoyed charnel as the
shaliow water OU!Wth the chanrels C(Ivered
wth fistng traps and relS of varoos knds.
some are ma~ed by black flags but oIhers
not and onca n Ihls area l is like a maze o
escape If somelhing is caughl on the prop ii
is Imposslble to see to remove due lo the
heavy sedimen in the waer Be wamedl!

An ovemlgtt stop a Port lm makes a


pleasant break in thIS pasaage wth a Iovely
sail through the deIIa lo Kterson the
followng momng

tand iS mostly agrC\.lllural


w!h a lew smail Icwns unlil nearng
Nkolavev wten the targe bIod<.s of houses
for the shp yard workers are seen,
The

surroundng

i
=

7"

.. .... .
----.

~-"

.-".

.,.--

FO "

-- "

. 4.
OCAKOV

230

<

N 46 37.65 : E 31 35.25

231

HARBOURS AROUND NIKOLAYEV

RIVER BUG

YACHTClUBOCEAN.
when Cl'Ulsing lo NkoIayev ths s the firs
harbour where yadts can rTlOOf.
It s
rewgnsed on approad by the many smail
fishng
boats moored in tiers up the
overbank and the sandy beactes to the
north. A etty protrudes ioto the river 'rom
beIOW alarge dubhouse
Approach the habour on il COUfSe of 150'
from channe! Boy No, 117 Beware of the
shallaw deptts around the ruined
breakwaer and the piles thal life jlJS! above
seawaler. TiL! up where StLO'NTL on plan Try
Ch16onapproach.
The dub is quite dose lo a suburb of the own
for provisions and transport lo NkolaylIV.

N II(OLAVEV

...

,
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y..... ~~ c'lvb z..o,~; ...
'V" I"-M"" Mo>o~,~~

"\AtM b........,..... ...

"

Y(l$~

J.,

YPoCh-

,.'c..koj&~ R*'3;on~

CWb

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--YACHT CLUB OCEAN

... LO" '.3," . ~152 ."


.. ",' !5<>.r:, l l' $5,,,'

N 46' 52.18 ': E 31 " 59,81'

Yo.:.h~ C,,\:,

YACHTCLUBZAR tA

1CO"""'~~ .. , ..w:~S

In il comer of the river mal1\ed by LI red and


white horizonlal sttipe(! chmney. CLOS& to
the Central Immgraon Authonly Bl,llldlng
forNkoayev.

Approach from channel 600y Nol30 on il


course of LOS' There are lald mooongs wth
il

depth of 4 melres at the

per.

Call the

manageron VHF Infor advce.


OesellS

..,; ~,,~ ~ ..... ", ~",~n;. _

,. """"-.'

"-"""""'&\~ ,,~~ !\.,-=-... <;~ ~o"'~


..

.,

available from il tank and walef on


shore. Ths smail fnendly dub s about 500
metres from the man road for !fansport to
NlIoIayev. Tlere all dean saody beaches
JUstoutsde the harbour.
As ths yadll dub beIoogs to il company
whch makes ndusial and manne g8
turbne engines. aU manner of repars are
possble
Theyalsa after use of the
companys medica l facililes if needed

~~ ;~

. e~c'i

-"', . ., r

.. . . ij

YACHT CLUB ZARIA

N 46' 55.85" : E 32" 01 ,4 '

232

233

VALEANNA MOORING

MAIM BOATYARD

The enormous blue golalh ype cranes and


the large blue boldirg undemeath I is the
indicatar for thS mooing spo Moorirg is
available aloogsde a lIoahrg wor1:shop
which is now Il'1COfj)Ofaled as a breakwaer
Water and electrldty are available and the
depth alongside is 6 3 rnelfes
There is
excellent 24 tour security and goOO shelter
from an wnds Ths QUel ptace amongsl the
shpyards is wthn wallung distanee of same
smail shops and cafes and 20 mnullls
wa!kng to the cenlfe ol Nkolayev.
Can Yact Valeama on VHF 16 on approact.

A sheltered harbour 00 the North bank


before the bridges A conspicuous grain sllo
a nd loadi ng and disctlarging hues
(disused) indicae the spot.

-.,
N

_.....,
.

Anchor off the boalbuildrg yard n 3 5


metres or he alongsde a roncrete pootoon n
2.5 metres All repars can be undertakan a
th1; yar<! as well as new yachts bo!.
Canvenenl for the \own centre and o"ers
shelter lrom a strong rorth wnd \o ~achts
unable to trave! uoder the bndges.
Ths yard LS an approved VO/VQ Penta
Servce Um!.

NIKOLAYEV REGIONAL YACHT CL UB

YA CHT CL UB KOMMUNAROVETS

The Nikotayev Regonal Yach Club iS the


oldes yachl dub In N kolayev and can be
reoognlsed by 115 large plUared dubhoose
and race slgnal mas on lhe "vertank before
the b"dge and dose o the ferry passenger
lerminal
There are several smail ~acht clubs In Ihs
eraa b.t they belang o InsUtutlons such as
the Unversty
F loatng ponoons wth 3m depth have !ad
moonrgs bot care must be taken of the
moorrg bIocks that reduce the depth n
places \ol y: m . Eectncty iS available
The dubhouse s alreedy fElf10Yated and
conlans retcs of pas day ogelher wth a
sauna and iioe dmrg room. in the boldrg 15
a yact chandler wto LS an agent lor many
nternatonal mnds. and a salng school.
The Club s stuated n the centre ol
Nikotayay makng it an deal piae to moor
Sheer s good excepl for the ocx;asonal
wave from passrg vessels

To reach th s habour t s necessary to pass


under two bndges.
The tirsl Ilfldge iS overthe R ver 8ug and the
second one is aboul1 mile lurttler spannlrg
the River Irgul. The air draft of the fi rs s 16
melres and the secorid 13.5 melres
Bolh of these are operlng bridges bul will rot
apan for yachls. The Certral TOwr1 Square Is
jusl across the water. Surrounded by parks
this marir a is very peaceful
Local boats lic on moorirgs In a depth ol 6
meres and a free mooring would certanly be
lound lor a vstrg yacht. $ince the yachl
dub do not regularly monilar the VHF
armogernenls Wl " be madE on amval

234

..- ..... ""'..."


~-,

--~

.,..

N 46- 59.15': E 31- 57.15"

N 46 56.61 " : E 31 " 59"26"

.....

MAIM BOATYARD

VALEANNA MOORING

--

--,.

-,... ;...--' ....

'

"_'"_

--

~.

>_

!L_____ --

- 4 ___ .....

Y.C. KOMMUNAR OVETS

N 46- sa.8 : E 31 " 59.5"


REG IONAL YACHT C LUB

N 46 58 .45" : E 31 57.43"

235

NIKOLAYEV
A shpbuld"ng town with a population of
around 1 million. Nkolayav was creale<! to
build the Russlan Nava! Fleel and contnues
to be a shipbuilding area II has been a
'dosed lown' for 50 years and was only
Ths
opened lo fOfeigners snce 1999
meanl thal even residents had k have
specal permsson to leave the town and no
foreigners were allowed in.

OCEAN

In 1999 The Black Sea Yachl Ralty.


KAYRA'99. wes the !irsl ylsll of foreign
yachts k Ihe town. Ths YISIl, wtct inYOIYed
the opening of the two bndges in the own
centre. was a hghlgh for the peopie of
Nkoayev and they reman very welccmong
to Cfl.IS1ng yachls.
The approach lo Nikolayev is up the b.oyed
nver and ideallyrequres Russlan Charts no
35109 and 35160 but in dear YlslbUity \here
iS hllle problem without them The buoys are
numbered consecuively (evan numbElrs
Red , odd numbers Green) and at each bend
there is a cardinal buoy alsa numbere<! as
thoJgh red or green.
There are alsa
conspfwous leading Ines for each leg. The
channel is dredged to l1m and outsde the
dredged channel there is normally aboot 5
melres
Sa!ling up the river the size and extent of the

shipbuilding ndustry n the area is


appreciated from the glgilntc cranes. some
of the largest n the world, o the mles ol
wharls wth vessals bed alongsde for repar
or sale.
There are severn piaces for a yadt to roor
thal do not necosstate the opening any of
the brdges. Transport is excellen

236

n ths

large own sa even If lTI()()f8(I


town access Is no problem

oo

of

There Is high nteres and m.ch actYlt)' 111


Iocal yachting and several yactt bvilOers
have ther yards hefe. some spares are
available and all repars can be elfeded.
The1e are two sa'lmakers who make new
sails and repar Any of the Iocal yadtsmen
or harbour masters wi aSSISt wth contacts.
Shelt&f III the ""er s excellenl from the
prevlng p.ffl wrd wtlch is alsa atreeted by
thermats and can bIOW in all directions
A wde vanety of Ukraman cuisoe s found in
the many restauranlii and cales and !here
are alsa sevSfal last iood outles such as
McOooalds. The marl.e ooxl lo the Bus
Staton has
separate Indoor halis for
cheese, sausage chicilen and fresh maa
and a large covered area lor fruil and
vegetable. Clothing, sweels, biscus and
bread arealso on sak!. As with most markets
a early yjs~ Is preferable. this one seems to
ciose ai>out 16.00 hrs There afe howev6f
several 24 hour mn,marl.ets n the miln
Slreets
Near 10 lhe City HlI and tha rivrsde s the
Post Office wth Lin ATM n the hallway and
rex 000r iS iii wonderfullnemel Cafe. Ths
is newly opened wth very modern
computers, very fast and has a bngh and
airy Cafe for snacks 11 sopen from 10.0010
2300 and cos 6 Gnvna
per hour.
Throughoul the town are many banks and
Bureau de Change.

Thefe is a large Shpbuikfing and Manme


Museum wtlid clsptays models of many of
the shps buiH n Nikotayev logelher wth
navgaton instrumeots used on them. CIose
by ths museum is the Art Gallery w,th a good
coIlection of

237

pantngs

by Russan and Ukranan Artists


The lown centre ol N kolaye~ iS partcularty
attra ~ ve to wander around and many
European retaller3 ha~e set up branctes
here. Se~eral5hops on the man pedestnan
street sellmported loodstuffs. Everywhere
peopie wsh to assst and only a slght pause
at the meet oorner wdl bnng someone eager
o explan o( drect. Many pa~ement tal es
exst along the tree Iloed streets.

A la ~ourite place to walk is through the


gardens ol tIle Town Square and then along
the n~ersde betwoon the bridges

DNIEPER RIVER

SWlmmng s

possible n tIle nver from many


ol the sandy bIlaches. Just walct where the
Iocalsgo.

"z

.,il'

z _. -

""

-!'
<

"'~

'--51""

....1" '

-~_.,

"

.... offo>< ,

ATM.

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.'"

""""'"
, ..............

">
",, ",

....,.... ,~ -..M""

.... .....,,0.-"'.

......

~._...

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,...,..... _ . " ts

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o

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238

239

PORTITCH

KHERSON

This tlny harbour belongng lo Ihe Rver Navigatlon Authority is an exceten plaee lo break the
journeyalong the Dneper Rwer o Kherson. Yachls tie alongside a barge wtch LS bed to the
Quay ThiS 1$ an overngh! s!oponly and is permissible only because o f the fnendlmess of the
nighl waenman . In return. sorne refreshmen! is welcomed by him Wilhot.l ths stop travelhng
from Nikoayev to Kherson m aday would be Quite difficult

Khefson sea port s amoogst the biggesl m Ukrenll. The pons slualed of\ the Dneper delta
53 nM from the Black Sea ThOfe ere two pos5lble moonngs for yachls One of\ thewest5lde
of the river aloogside a Quay at the nversde gardens under the Monumenl or of\ the east SIde
in the smallolet referred to as Zaton No J whch 1$ re5efVed for yacht clubs aOO relaxatior,

When gong to Knerson and atler exiting the very narrow canallsed sedion of the dela. the
harbour 1$ not eY1dent unbllevel wth it Tum in and be up. The port SIde on enterng 15 covered
wth rushes and overtangng vegetaon. Very peaceful wth wonderful brls.
A wall vlage LS elliden aboutlkm away and a ehddren's holiday camp w!h a beautiful

on approochng Kherson and levet wth the man fuellertnnal call Kherson Radio 2 on VHF
9 you will then be instructed to tali Rado 5 on VHF 16 for moonng instrucbOrs

MOORING ON WEST (TOWN ) BANK

beach is adjacen o the herbour


Port

ttct

is a suitable name

man eabng mosqurtoes appear a dusk. Be preparedl


NAV1GATION

SHE LTER
FORMAUTIES

and

Irmgraton wlf YI5II yad\.

Repo o KPP Kh8fSOO VHF 16 .

LOCAL WlND AND CURRENT

ThemaI wrdS mcxerabng

ei

nghl

ek,'''-,,,,,-,
CA'"'I"

. . !;

BaSic repa~ through Herbourmasler

"-

"- -' ,......... . -.-......

..........

PORT ITCH

.. d . d

"

"

....
-

~' .

,_o

".

N 46 33.09': E 32 19.17 '

~.

c ' O&:"'-<*-'

f .. rr:"~

"

KHERSON

240

N 46 37.61" : E 3r 37.31"

241

MOORING ON EAST BANK !YACHT CLUB]

ZATON No 3

KHERSON

in ths smalln!et hned wth trees ard sWlmming area there is a smail jeny operated by the
Federation Centre for ViSltrg Yachls, Per/eet shalter and peace iS lound here but avlsit to
Kher$On means a lerry !np. Thej6tty has 1 melres at the outer end and 4 metres Inside PICIC
up a lael 11100011119 and he bow of stern to the j6tty. It LS also possible lo anchor in the iagoon

The nlet is mark.ed by a watch tower amongst lrees 00 the starboard side and a thn red pillar
buoy 00 the port scie,
entered
ol the 150 cruising yachls reglSlEH"ed in the Kerson
area are seen.

ooce

some

Ths wtoie area is given over to water activities


One area beIongs to the UnIVet$lty
SWlmming Clut, arotler the Manne Sdool and the rest lo Metropol the old name of the yocht
club This is where the Federation Centre for Vsitng YoctlS S based and the statr are all most

friendly and helpfu

The town ol Kherson iS sltuated on the


Omaper Rver on the last navigable stretth
before a yocht woold be requred to remove
the mas The passage up the e.cel80t/y
buoyed channeJ is through the estu31)' witl
open countryside and a lew hoiday daclas
built 00 tha nver>de. Aroond eV8fy bend
there iS another beautlul rural seene until the
lasl bend when the town of KIefson and ts
manycrares comes nlo $lQht.

wth

Khefsor

was the first

shpyard

on the Black
sea and shp buildng startad there n 1783.
A monumen on Ihe riversde
commemorates ths dae The ndustry and
quays are mosdy on the wes riverbank and
swimming and recreaton takes place on the
easl Several smail temes make regular
crossings,

The e~cellent market offers a good selectlor


ol 10Ga1 special~,es. The .eg;or, is lamous for
ts pork. sturgeon ard cognae and theyare
all avalab l e. The estuary iS il man b.e&tI,ng
ground for sturgeon and several areas are
folbdden for fishng to protsct the young fish.
Another local lavounte LS RAK , a smail fresh
water Iobster. This iS served n many of the
Iocal cales ard li iS eaten whHe drinkng beer.

The lown was destroyed during the Great


Patriotic War bul has been restored to 115
origina! plan. Merchanl's house5 n lIe past
wi!f8 buil! around :ourtyards used lor the
storage of goods and this has been repeated
during reconstructon
The houses are mostly iow rise and
anractvely set amongs patks

.'.

CIose to lhe opera House is an Irternet Cafe


in a smail single story buildng The many
banks and the Post office have ATMs and
GSMlslnoperatlon,
Khetsor

The town is compact and all lacililies are


wthn walkng dslance of the mooring
plaees.

iS al present beng
and water are being
afe eqected together

The Opera House has been restored but s


rowused asa Drama Theatre Unfonunalely
lIe vew of ths buldng has been spoi!t by a
large fast food restaurant n the gTOUndS.

also has some arcienl

ruos.

The
gaew3y
and wa"s thal surrounded the
anoer cty can stili be seen in the park, the
cenrepece of whict is a church row beng
restored The underground af'S!!flal
from
the old !ort 1$ n very good condltion.
From Kherson ii s possible to viSlt the
Ask.anoya Nova Resetve Ths Is an area of
33,000 hectaresofsteppe, populaled bywild
armals nlroduced by a German settler in
1828. The anmals nclude twson . zoora wild
horses and ostnct. Atached lo the ammal
reserve is a botane garden.
For yachts wth a mast that can be lowered or
a motor boo. Lhe nvercan be crused to Kev.
a Journey whlch takes sevemi weeks. There
are two sets of focks on the way bu! ths iS no
hindrarce as mary Iocal yachts make the
journey each year
lt is said thal the
clearanoe a the bridges o Kiev is i Jmetres.
From the gut where Ihe Yachl Club has its
pontoon ~ is possible to make a trip inlo the
delta by dinghy cruising through the rural
c.ountry$lde

...

1
YACHT FEDERATION CENTRE

242

N 46" 31.36': E 32" 31,45'

243

PORT YUZNIY

PORTYUZNIY

A commert;l port recognsed from the dstarce by ils cranes and large ctemlcal worb

The port of Yuzny was bul! 20 years 1190


taking advantage of the excellent shelter
pmvded by the large Yuznly Uman.
it is
:ertanly no a yachl haven bul it does otIer
excellen! shelter in dean
commerdal
surround ings
The port has its own yacht club and yact
and are thefefore fneodly Lo vislbng yactlS
and know !her requremenls .

A deep waer booyed channel provides safe enlry lo the port which s useful as an ovemigh
slop or as shelter n bad weather AI!hough commetial the port has a sailing dub and lls
own yadt and was verywelooming

Proceed along the buoyed channel until


through the hartour entranCfl and then leave
Buoy No 11 to Slartloard before tumng n to
he alongside a large ftoatng clock. The dub
yactt
be a!ongside 100. large tugs are
moored In this area

mav

The port is extremely busy wth the exporl of


ammoma. mneral ores. and chemicals. The

new

or dapartng the harbour


obtan permISSIOn from port ContJoi. VHF 11
Lo enter the buoyed dannel whch s
dredged lo 15 meres wth 5 metres 0I.Its.de
!hechaflnel.
Belore

enterng

o"

The lif>1 contad wth th port al 5 mles


LS
on VHF 11 YUZfly Poct Control ;nd thn later
wth KPP Yuzny (Immgrnton ).
or

_.,'

o'i '

area oulsde the man breakwaters;nd nsa


moorings and a ponoon This area is al
pr8senl use<! as a beach and by the smail boal
sailing tlub

~ f ~

........
."

.~

'"

LO .....

/ 10 ...

,J ,

,
-

compleled and will be


comml1lsoooed sho !ly The whoie port is very
dean and ore~. There s a smail shop in
!he port that sels bread. sausages m~k ete.

The town

eas

of the port was budt for lhe

wo1ters

The popuaton enjOy an excellent


standard of lfe and have a wonderfut sports

complex and s.analOnum for thelf use.


The town whch an be readed by mnbus
from the harbour has a daly market, several
pmvlsion shops and same reslauranls
There Is also a bank in the lown ilnd GSM
wOfks The port office can send and recevB
fax and emalls In an emergeney
Port Yuzniy is usaful as an ovemight slop
especlly n Ildverse we-ather as the sheller
iii V&ry good

"

. ., i

entry into the buoyed thannel beware of


the strong CfOSS currents seting a yact out
of the dredged channel on o the booys.
Easl-golng in Southerlv and Weserly winds.
Wesl-90ing witl Easerly winds.

oi temnal s

--

lG

1'1 -'

PORT YUZNIY

N 46 35 : E 31 ' 00.7"
CONTROL TOWER

244

245

ODESSA COMMERCIAL PORT AND MARINA APPROACH


Odessa. wth ii populton of more than 1
millon. 15 the Black Sea's gateway to
Ukrsl1'\8
lt has a v8f)' large Commerdal HSrbour and
an atralve Passenger Teminal dose to
whh the new manna is stuatecl Ths
manna 15 callad TCF Nautical Club, PM
Odessa and is one of the two in Ukrne All
the tlSU!lI marina fad5tes are avalable
ncitdlnQ a ftei Jety whefe desn watE!f free
ftel can be obtaoed at a rea$Ofl8b1e COSI.
No.hls is not

Odun

Ya::ht CI",b wh i::h


I' no longer a Port of Enry, ltle Na",li::al

cl",b i, now the on ly Port of Enlry in


Ode"a.

The manna entrance s nsde the man


breakwa\ef whld ends al the promnenl
Varonkovsky Lghthotlse
In the
ba::kgrOl,lnd LS the new hghnse HoIKlay Inn
Hotel and busness canlfe .
As ths 15 a very bl,lsy port. permission la
enter ml,lSI be requested 9 miles otr from
Odessa Port Control VH F 14 Arler
permssor is granted call Odessa Marskoy
Club VHF 73 and they WLII then be ready to
receive the yach. Moorings are aloogsde
fngerpontooos. no anchor requred
lt is rec:onvneoded by the Port Authontes
that ali vessels enter and leave Odessa Port
on ol fixedcoorse . rear 0001180"

TCF NAUlICAL CLUB MARINA ODESSA COMMERCIAL PORT

Aloogsde ths build'ng is a large underrover

ares for the wnler storge of boals, The


maximl,lm heght for enlry ,nto ths area s
46metres,
iS by moble aane and wteeled
cradle Storage rooms are alsa avalable AU

Access

repafS

can be undertaken and a pt!vste


company caUed MINDRA SAIL repairs and
makes sa~s as weD as canvas wort. and

Noe
on Departure clear Imm'{lraton cmd r&Ql,lest permission o leave manna from
dspalcher, As you are castng of!' Lne, al Port Canlfal , VHF 14 for permssion lo leave, as
mmedalely outside the marna you sre entenng the main harbour

, NAVlGATION
Varonkovskiy lgttouse
N 46 29.67- : E 30 45 60'
Beware of ~' n"els and tnp boats leavng the
harbour a speed bul hidden bennd the

Dangers in approach

Iteakwater_

""'''!l.

N 46 '29_63'; E Jo- 44 95'

10 metres
VHF 14 odessa pof1 Control.

Manna charges for Summer 2QOO ara baS8d


on lenglt and for a 13 metre yacht the dsly
charge is 14$. weekly 84$, morthly 280$ and

3 morthly 560S
Other lengths are 2$ per metre
dearE!f.

deaper

or

The Naulical Club is an excellan place to


leave the yachl for vis'ls lo other places n
Ukraine or Rus"a as IIH.re 15 24 har
secunly. The ,nlamaonal arport n Odessa
is linked LO many ates

enter
Cvstoms and Immigration Yiill visil yaclt

Repor to Lebed VHF ~16'-o;;:::<.C===c-~

lOCAL WlND AND CU RRENT

========:--i

Thel llClIs

affect the bay E winds in moming


h
at "'9 l

Siluated at lhe passenger termnaidI


Odessa $ea Port. Ihe marina is only 5
m,nl,lles away lrom the histoncal centre of
Odessa , ArOl,lnd \he marina Ihere is an art
gall ery showng marne canvases. a
restaurant and bar togelher wilh sn
international hotel at present being bu~1 In
the leminal are banks. ATM machlnes and a
travel ageney thal can arrange trips wthn
and outs>de of Ukraine_

'"

- .....
- ~-

~-

,~

Inside the Marina Buoldongs are showers and


IQlats kay: are obtained from the eIIspalcher
and s weslher Iorecast iS dsplayed n the
recepbor haU

Charts are avalable in Odessa imm Fngae


Maritme Ageney
Tel 60.58.26 Costing around 30$ each ,

.,
N

TCF NA UT ICA l ClUB OOESSA

.......J . - ' J

Li

N 46 29.63' : E 30 44,95'

L.C .F. MAR INA

246

247

ODESSA YACHT Cl UB
IMPERATOR 1895

ODESSA

The Yacht Club. 2 mles south of the CommElfClal Po1 and TCF Nautcal Club s no tonger a
Po1 ofEntry Yachts who have enered Uk.rane are wecome here bul the harbouris slbng up
and the ma~mum depth Inslde the ruired breakwaler s 2 metres
Many Iocal yadls are berthed here but al have shallow drafl The swell insde the harboor
can be bad and tong lnes to the shore are necessary o aVOld damage. However if a y&ch! can
enter there 1$ 1'1 warrr weicome awaitlng !hem. There is now only a oca manager who wl1
assst wth ii moonng poston There is no VHf connedoo

The

Y&cht Club iS n a beautrful area wth wooded hins behnd and several restaurants in the
parks aroond the hartour and a ramor troIleybus makes avst to the LOM'L centre quie easy.

:;;===~--nThe oocayog

nx:ks at the entrance They are easily se&n.

N 46'276' . E 3tr456'
4 meles.
2 meIJes deaeasing to 0.5 metre
Good e~cept in strong N E winds whch ade
oru
N~

ThermaIS affect the bay E wndS Lo

Il,OlTlng

SW aftemoor and N at nighl


Can be connected .
uaystde
Canister and tax.
tt is imendad lo dredge lhe harbo.r and
remove the hulks once true ownership of the
tartoJr is estat:lished.

on

Known as the Pearl of the Black Sea .


founded n 1794 more than 1 millior
nhabtants. II is a popvIar hoIday arsa w'th
sandy beachas and maoy allr.ctive thngs o

The marl<et. near the ralway staton is very


large and opeo evmy day unbl 16.00.
Evef}'1ting can be purchased !here. The
ctamp3gne ol !he regon can be bought
everywhere wrtt a doce ol whte. pnl:.,
sweet or brut and is vmy reasorably pnced.

The main street, which is \raffic free. s iined


on one side by a pari< where Ioca handcrafts
aredisplayed farsale The standardolsome
of !he work is very good and ii is an e~cenert
place to buy SOINeni~ on a comer of the
street is the Passage a shopping maLi bui~ n
the Iate 1800s and decoraled in the baroque

,,,,.

Lo see and do In Odessa The


Archaeokgy Museum opened n 1875 was
the fi~1 of ,is kind in the Russlan Emplre
The prize exhib,l is the goid collectoo wlth
Jewellery and coirs of early clv iUsalians and
a lamoos gold vase dating bak lo the 14~
Cenlury BC Close to ths m.seum is the
M.seum of Marllime H story displaying naval
artelacts and the Lilerature Museum
showing ilems of the lives of Chekoy.
Pushk,n and ToIstay who ar IWed at some
bma n Odessa
There s

muct

on dmbong the fanous Polemkn Steps and


\eft aloog the gardens the pnk and
whlleCIIy HaD, fomerly the Stodr. E~change.
comes 1010 v>cw and dese by is the Opera
and Ballet Theatre

This wes deslgned by archleds from Vienna


In the baroque style AI preseni the outside
Is uner repalr but Inside is supert
In
summar there are maoy operas and corcerts
here nch week and tickets are VL!fY
affardable The tcIIet desk is at the sde
enrance to the Opera HouSE!. A visit !o the
opere Is not o be missed
The
perlomances start al the early hour ol 18.00
bel a\J$8 n some areas of the town there is

no 5treet lghlmg.
There are numerous oihef museums and at
teas a week oould be spant wardenng in the
deightful ely entoyng the sghls and
sounds Restauranl$ abound W'th a wide
c oct from Ukraman to Chnese and
Japarese and many nternalonal cafes have
opeoed here.
AI; would be e~pected n such a Ively lown

!here are ptenly of ATMs. the nearesl lo the


harbour beng n the FerT)" Terminal. GSM
won.s and thefe are several ntemel cafes
Here you feel you are n an European Cily
wth the many io\.insls that throng the slreets
and the vanely of languages that are teard.
For CfUsng yachl$ li iS a real oass of
cvlsaton . Pnces are hgher here than n
the fest of Ukrare bul so are standards.
From Odessa lS easy to vst Kiev. by!Jan
or plane, or Moscow: but beware going to
RusSla requres a new VlS3 on return,

lumng

Certan/y ayadil CfUising Ukrane stouid try


to Visll Odessa wth lls lriendly
and

PeOPIe

e.OIIIlent marina

ODESSA YACHT C LU B

-,-

,
N 46 27.6 : E 30' 45.6
POT EMKN

248

STEPS

249

ODESSA

Il LICHEVSK
This modem Comrnereil Port coo$picuously marked wll' a red and whte hozona stnped
lighthoose, does nol welcome yacts except in an emergency and they wll be drected to ye
Lllichevsk. (In summer 2000max drft n Yad't Harbour 2.6metres ). If necessary they can
moor in !he Commercial harbour as shown on plan. wten compIeted all yadls shoukl moor
a the Yadl

Club.

'Nhen 6 mlles imm "Iiehevsk caH Traffic Contro Port IIlcheY1lk on VHF 10.
A safe enlry poslon is N 46"18.6 : E 30 "42.9 Ther foIlow buoyed tanne on 288" T wth

Red aOO Green leadng Ime !here are sroog cross cvrreot3 tn the channel.

YACHT CLUB IlLlCHEVSK


Ths yadl harbour

1 Jl. 1lr1 south of the COmmeraaI Haboor is n an almost drrularpool2OOm


in dameter. Care LS necessary as it is shallow and manoeuvnng space is resriced
Conspocoous s il Iydrofotl on top of the southem bfealcwater which will be turned ino a
dubhouse Several yad\s Lie on moorngs n the bay ard n SUlYlfner the $hallowwater outside
1$ covered by smail fsh,ng boats. SWlffimefS and pedallos it LS il vefY popular holiday spot
wth good sardy beades.
on appmach call VHF 16 and someooe Is likely to come oot and assist wth the entrance and
wth

moonng. Everyone here was very !nendly aOO helplul

PASSAGE

beng"";; "'' .:

The bay '8 al present


,,harbour INiII be ~edged The smail yact\ dub
,s nstaOng water and elect .... y. The enlrance
may aso be changed

,, -;.,,,
Ao. ..(...,....

,
"
"
"

,
,

r.,..~

'-"'",.~

,,,"T,M,

fM ... _"; ......

-, ""..,
~~,

!.>.~',...~

A .... ...,~

t_" 1

l. ....

_~

iii. ,.

"....... ~

<

Lo

".",

..... , "".,.~

....

~~_u..,

'"

~.

M.~,h .. <

.,

...,...."

"

"'".~

"<1>00""'001) .,.,..,J",

..

'fl, . ~"

::

......... ~ ...." i

,,>It,fa

. ~.;,

.,

""'~.

f.A. (ii.

""
,."

1
. "'_ . ~~
T......-".
",,,,",,",,,,

_...... ..

i>o .... ~"''''

F-...~.,~

--,

-"

_f,c
<--~

M"o.-J".
~ . I"'"

.--

1<0, .' . .. . ' .....

2"

'"

-j

BELGOROD-DNEVSTROVSKIY

IlLlCHEVSK
The own oIllIlChevsk 16 one ol Ihe yooll9tlsl
awns n Ukrane,

beng

only 25

year

old.

wllh a populahon ol 64.000 ol whom ha"


work n lhe PM,
II has il developed
infrastructLlre whch ncludes the antre ol
Mechamcs of Odessa Uruvers,ty.

The Fina An Museum is unque in Ukraine


and s based ofl a pmale collection of
chnaware , produced n the 18~ and 19~
Centunes, The coIlecton was donated by a

ThiS e~cellen port. stuated In a very sheltere<! lagoon, ,s approaded through il buoyed
chanrel, The narrow entrarce from the Black Saa iS erossed by a railway and road bndge
which opens at fi~ed hours if requred by a commeroal vessel, Yachts enter at these bmes
The bndge will not apan for a yad ak:ne If !here s no commefCIal traffie the bridge will not

Iocalnhabtant

""",,.

!and around the Yact Club is


designaed a health resort area and many
sanatona hne the beach south of the hatbotr
The Yacht Club orgaruses the hire ol
pedaRo$ and rowng boats for the sman
hoLiday camp attached A Divng Club alsa
uses the premses and usually has rlSh
ava!at.le, The restaurant ciose to the e~ilof
the Yadt Club is very popuIarwlh Iocals and
S&l'Ves good Uktana., foad

Brdgeopenng

The

AIthough modem, it 15 bIJilon an arcenl soe


and during excavalloos archaeologsls
dlSCOVered d'weUog hou5eS dawg from the
lateBronzeAge

The constructior of the new seaport sarted


n 1956 because Odessa sea PM was
unable to ape wtth Ihe growng freoghl tratflc,
Ils now the larges seaport n Ukraine The
fishng port. inSIde the Sea PM was
constnJcte<! n 1964 and 'S now the base of
the Alarctca F'shng Fleet In the harbour is
alsa the tIIiCheYsk Shpyard whch has 14
wharves covenng a langth of 3,000 meres
The well plarned own Wlth well kepl parks
and streets s an easy willk from the Yadl
C lub hartour, There are many stale and
privae department stores, grocery and
provision shops, klOsks and an excellan
market together wth cafes and restaurants.
The 6 banks and a large post office at
presen have ro ATM machnes
b.It hey
were expected o be installed shortly,

252

MajOf plans e:.isl o develop the Yactt Club


by dosing the present antrance and openng
anather enlrance on the stlellefed Nortnem
breakwaler where !here is alsa cleeper water
on the approad,
W~h the dredg'ng
programme ths WLII become an e~cellent
harbour This is planned to take place wlhm
the re~t two years.
In the Su mmer of 2000 work had aready
starte<! on quaying the bead In front of the
dubhouse

08.00 1111 08.40


12.15 bII 12.50
1400 UO 14.45
11.30 11l18.00
The height underthe rased bndge iS 26 meres. When dosed it is 9 melres
umes

on approach can ZaIOka Rado VHF 06 or Most VHF 06 for the nert openng bme. 2 ol the 4
openings are Wtout payme each day. sa alsa check if IlS a free op8l'11ng orrol
A buoyed channel from a safe approach poirt of N 46"04 57 E 30' 30,00' leads to a quay
on south shore on \he Black sea SIde ol the brldge where ilis pos.sble lo wa,t overrnghL As
fishing boats have poonty a \lu! quay it may be necessary to move dunng the nght. Try to De
alongside one thal 's then for repars il possible Allhe quay ttere is same swetl because ol
the cuITent and baek OOdy urder the bridge
On entry o the approach chanoel hoid o \he north sde of channe!, dredged to 5 metres
There is na water outside the charnal to the south and even ,n hght wrd and slight sea the saa
breaks on the very shallow bank SE of booy No 8 Beware ol the strorg east going current
under tte bridge and at the sooth slde jetty
Belara the agreed opening time the yaehl wll be nformed by Ihe dlspaleher of the procedure.
The tming of the yacht's passage under the bfldge depends on the number ol vessels
entenng or leaving Once under the bndge follow the buoyed dannel and the back ma1o;ers.
The mmmum deplh in Ihe buoyed chanoels 3.7 metres.

253

BElGOROD - DNEVSTROVSKIY

CHANNELS TO BELGOROD DNOVSTREVSKIY

The port of Belgorod Onevs\follsky LS surpnsng!y large consefng the shallowness of the
water on the approaches and the bndge dosng the entrarce
approad the craoos in the
tarbour are cospcuous and many shtp$ wll be seen allhe quays. The Harbourmaster s

on

very pleased to we\come yactts to hs port.


Mud wood LS eKjXJl1ed from the harbour and it comes drect to
unIoadng on lo the shps. A hazard when walkng arourd the port
constnlly on the /TlO\Ie.

on approach to the harbouf call VHFI6, Radio 2. for il berth VHf16 Radio 1 advises of any
shp movements

Oe:t<-r oYhod~

!he harboor by \lam lar


is the iong trans that are

Before departure check wlth the dspatcher about the Ikely time 01 shlps depanng for the
openng of !he brldge When il departura tme is agreed with the dspatehe, yachts Oepanlirst
on the mp through the buoyed charnelto the brldge FoUow insruct.ions givilO by Radio 1
VHF 16 as y;chts mav have to go under the bridge first and wa,l at the Fshmg quay unbl the
mefchanl vessels bolh leaYing and entering have deared the Black Sea approact channeL
Radio 1 on VHF 16wll dviseofprocedure.

af-

"''''''"'l..... ch;o .."""


'~""-""J i.~~- ,.,f
-... i ....

of_ IO!III

,....

Water by canster
By c:aster and tax_

s
Se.a..... .. ..s. Clulo

"- ......
..... oto..>.s
',,,

;,...t S$>S

..

Ft.-t- A:J.M'''' ~

SOo

lec..d i,,'J li ne.


BELGOROD DNEVSTROVSKIY

254

255

BElGeROD

ONEVSrROVSKN

on the Dnlser which


celetrates 2500years In 2000, Is sltualed on
the west side of lhe Onlser et the end ol the
navgable chanrel
Many years ago iI was
passible to uayel up the rlver to MoIdova but
the river has since slltad up The deptt cfter
the harbour decreases to under 1 metre
troogtou the liman
The

Whe

Cty

yaeht not YefY nspnrg.


bo once out ol the hartour and nto the old
part ol tM town the large fortress. for wtd
the town 1$ famo,s becomes evdenl The
Akarman Fortress dates back to the 13~
cenll/lY I was b,.1I on the ste of a Greek
coIory wtid eXlslad from the 6" lo 1 ~
certu~ SC
These ruins ere bemg
eXlensiyay eXC8vatad e presenl, A speaal5
grivra piec:e has been nunlad to celebroe
the 2500 yeers snee the are8 was fifst
lnoablled

The

approacl by

The fOflrass is one Of the larges! n Ukrar.e


w!h walls sretehg nearly 2km and a moat 6
metres deep, Aftar enlenrg the massva
galeway the intenor 1$ dyidad n two by a all
nlemal walL
In ooe secton lhe ruine<!
mlllilrel 51111 stands , a memoy of aTatar
mosque. Thefe cre good vews over the river
The other 5ecton cootClns the atadel and
lour towers These cra aJl in good conditioo
and areused bymanyfilm compares Irthe
carpan several Iocal anlss have set up
stalls wth tteirWCM'k 101' sate
The Regonal museum ccoains mary highly
inlricate GreeI< flgurkles found dunng tM

UST OUNAYSK
There are two manels in the town, The one
neanr the pon iS smailer, bu Ihe
surrounding shaps have a good selection ol
goods, The main manel, open everyjay
excepl Manday sel ls everylhng and is e
bustlrg cuwded place,
Thefe are a faw
banks bul no ATM and restauranlS ara
spread throughthetown,
The many iow rise houses of the old town
and the numerous parks gve the araa a
maIllfe Iook, especsally corrparng l wth the
modem pons of IlIictevesk and Yuzn!)"
In
the regon \here are 40 dtlarenl natonaltes
end the common language for the okIer
residents S Romanan. The fertle land of the
river yalley PrOYiCIeS e~cellen beel and lamb.
A lew m,les outsde the Iown iS the Yllage ol
Schwabo where wre iS produced. Belore
\he Greill Patnotc War ths area was the
home to many German CoIones anel In 1920
vines were imported imm France and
Swtzerlanel.
With the south laclng rlver
bank the grepes from these wlnes were use<!
o make the now famous Sdwabo wlne
Addtionally in Ihe viIIage centre is a beautful
church anel bellry and a well wlh minera
waler

This harbour et the end of the booyad channellnto lhe Danube Della iS
belOl'e COflbnung up the river,

conyenen Sop

Note hat charts show the old chanoelnto tM dalta bul this s siltad up and now dosed.
Enlerlhe buoyed channe! lo USL Dunaysk a a pastion N 45' 32 75': E 29' 45.75' Tlere are
teading lights bearng 210' for the thanne! Ignoreany tuovs maniflg the old dilme , same
ofwlich stil remain ,
Sefore commenting up the ctanne cal port Na;lzor on VHF II kl' pemsslon to enter and
bething instructions and Immgraton on VHF 16 who wn yl tte boat

on reaching the pooi keep to the sartoard scie eta !e to arge ~ tuovs belore cirding
the harbour to iie up el one ol the eranes. There is e shalow patet n the moddle ol ihe pooi

LS only an ovemight stop wth no Iacltes however 1119 crews and fisheen ere very
fnendly. The harbourmaster is alsa very helpltl W1th ii,l", i llaton aboJl the Rilier.
Ths

Entry nto the Oanube system from Us Dunaysk is through a wndng daflne! wlich the Ust
Ounaysk Harbour Authorihes have dredged o join the old over access at ProMnsluy.
In the momng \here is a Iocal passenger lerry o Vilkovka thateavas the harbour aboul 8 20
and rt is prudenl lo foIlow rt through the 3km new unbooyed channe lo jom Ihe nver.
Nole.
passege up o Izmat a maner 17km call Vllkovka on VHF 16 and advse Pretoy,
[Immigrahon]lnlendng o break Ihe passage or not ii stappng at Vlkovka call Vlkovka
Radio VHF 1110r berthng InstruclOfls

on

~<

BeIgOl'od ,Dnevstrovskty is an exceller


place to spend a lew days and Ihe teafy
streets and pans make wanderng a
pleasure. For the adyenurovs il JUSllfys lhe
wail 101' the bridge openrg and narrow
channe!.

" j . o.

..., "

excayaton wori<

""'":I _...... ~

"

n.

.-

~.

t.;>..u ............ '


C~U)

._u

....... - " ' " !

1'10'

,,

,
-o
USTDUNAYSK

N 45" 28,05 ' : E 29" 42,0 '

AKERMAN FQRTRESS

256

257

DANUBE DELTA

River Danube :

Important Signs

......

,~

..--

~
~

qJ

~
~
~
~
258

,
tJO ~"""'""3 .
.

~ &au ... d. ~;S"""l

(Ship.) .

5h"'lI-" de ....... i....... ,,;" e~n"el , i.. _!Te$ .

fok> e..tr'1 '

Sht..'t ~ .. ,,(n_e.

off ..i.

"'c:~ , i .. merreS .

~""''1 '

Oi...."'..u to>

TOf""i...q

",reD,

o.n

"-p:wr.o. .. t inel ..ehcn _

(Ship,) .
259

USTDUNAYSK TO IZMAIl

PASSAGE NOTES

The new channel from UsI Dunaysk joins the

Ovem.ght slOpS can be made a fetties iiI


Vlkov1<.a, K,ra aOO Izmail The northem bank
s lways Ukraine and the soulhem bank
van.es between Ukralne and Romarna and li
LS nteresbng to rote the differences in style

angnal

Danube canal system at the viiiage


of Pr:tvnSl.y Few malO chanrel tuoys are
n place but the km dsianca poss remalO,
There is 3.5m. mrmum depth in the ctannet
and the curreol is 1 kno The outSIde of a
bend gves deepest water.

ofhouses, dM.rches and even landscape

There is littie commercaltraffc. a law tugs


wth barges and the occa5lOllal hydrofOl
ferT}' travel~ng a t hgh sp B B d.

dlscharge or C3f'90.

The ever ctangng scenery of thS nver tnp


adds to the enJOYfTlent of sailng n the Blad\

s..

UST DUNAYSK - PRORVINSKIY

i'

"

"
E

.!l

&

"',

,,
,

i -
l' ~

~ oc

13

~-

i'

, i
~

"
~

,-

,
t
,, 6 .~' .., -

]
,

s ..- &
'it" ';'

j,

1~ i, ,
L~ ,
'

.
,

,,

.u
D:=

,tc

~\

-v

.~.

,,,

~~,

-i.

is obvious

aftr

14nM

km 116 and mar1ed by a sma~ lighhouse.

KIlIA
Kil

is il smallawn and oommercial por!stuated at marker47kmon the Oanube. It LS ii good


stopp'"g place as ilis half way between US! Dunaysk and Izmil
Shpprg bUild'rg and repair is now the mamsay of the LOWLL dua to the reduced amounl o f

il

Ilghter,

The Port has an ar of prevlO\.ls greatness, confirmed by the large area that the port offces and
ancillary worl<.s oover, bul now allhough all dean and tldy have a d!apd<!ted appeararce The
town corssts of law rse touses bu,lt in a grand style or very broad ree Ined streets Most
attfactive to walk araund. Several of the houses an belng restored to ther former glory All
shops. bank , post offICe and restaurnts are or the ooe iong man street. The market is
dosed on Sunda ys as are many of the shop5 A peaceful plce to stop on the Rvllf.

No facilties are readily available bul w,th the telp of the harbour stalf migtt be made available
n a emergerey The adarenI st'pyard could also effect emetgency repairs.

,,

-j;

the entry to the

On approach cal l K lia Radio 3 VH F 17 for berthlng Instructons. Normally alongside


wth il deplt o f aboot 11 metres

...
E
"

"

--

Sutra chanrel

Romana

"-

to

Ilver traffic n ths ,trech ofthe rtver. Enormous Ilgh ters are bu l! and ,apaired here

z ,

Contlruing

1
,

i
,,,

ttverhas a very largebend. Anctoted otrte


own are grea rafls of lghtefS awaog

~,

After Kla the buc:yage mprovas and soon


the cranes of Izma~ are see althoogh ii is
several hours unbl the lawn s reached as the

...
,VO"'L

.,

"'''''._'
""
.... _ b;' .,"'1

~', ~

..

"q

..
""'I,
.".

"-

~ . ".

,"

.' o

.'"
' __ .'~.,.

.-

......

...

,.

KILlA
260

261

IZMAIL

IZMAIL

The port ol Izmails sluated on the !efi bank of the OOlnube Rver between the 92 and 94 ' km.
and 15 ol pleasant stoppng place lOf a yad i s also ol POft ol Entrywhich is uselul for boas
efllering or leOlvng UkralOO as all paperwor'k can be done here Yads ITIOOI' a the p;sseng.er
lemlrala\ a Positon N 45' 20' : E 28' 51 ' As tha authontes were dose by it was not

Imail s

an attracve ow and the port LS


convenent for the Cly Centre. A pari<; runs
the length of the man street offeong shade in
the dmb Lo the man shoppng area and Lo
the blue and wMe Pokorovsky Cathedral.
The oentral ma1<el and eklhes bazaar
atacled lo iI are naarby. The fT\an:el cios:s
at 14 00 each day.

necessary toemploy an agenL


When ctedung out in zmail, 3 crew liss and the Cusloms document fssued a lhe Port of
Entry ere requred lagether with!ha General Oedarator completed and stamped on armal. A
new Genaral Dedaralion must be completed showng less money than the one on eotry, Afler
Customs and Imm~raton have vsted the boat and deared the vessel 'I musl leave
mmedately, The authorilies commence WOrK ai 06.00 wtich is c:onven,en ,f then con,nuing
00110 the Black Sea by the Sul;na Channel,
There was no lees payable for any lomallles in summer 2000.

There are several banks In lhe owr and a


Buraau de Chang at the Seamns Club, a
large mposng bu ilding o Iheway up the hll
into town. Intemel was also avalle!je n ths
club.
GSM won:ed but now on the
Romanan Net.
on the man street is the Regoral MU$8um
and across from ila Fina Arts Museum wth a
~ selection of painbflQ' scuptures and
glassWOf1(s.

if however 03 boat wshed to stop n same ol


the anchorages in the Oanube 0eIta it would
be necessary to sop a Tulcea to check nlO
Romama and check out a alaterport

Good.

LRepalf$

of the

oerre

worttwh,le.

_____:=:=:========--j~"""""'":'""~,,~iJ~
All
an be made large
shipyard,
..'".,""
repatf$~

4$1. . . v-..: ....


2 r..,..",..."- 6 Cvle"'_
1 0.. " .u...~....ti

-,

. ""

"

.....

out or in.

Could be cornected.
Avalable from quay see dispatcher for

.,..-

wes

is
belng reslOred and from the pan: arood it
the"e are good vews over lhe RIVef Oanube.
A I;nle lurther on a mosque has now been
turned inlo an exceHenl Parorama ollhe Fal!
of the Turkish Fortress a tzmall o the
Russ'ans A trp by IOlxo see Ihese sies is

16 tzma~ Port.

Waler

~~

Afler che<:k.ng oul of Ukrane here it is


possib!e o cootnue along Ihe DanUbe to the
Tuleea uncton and then ravel through the
Romanian sectloo ol Ihe Rver Lo come OLII al
Sulina in the Black Sea in Summer 2000
Okura made thS passage wth no hindranca
and ro sops

The Turkish For!. 2 km

I All necessary Aultorites for ctecid

The mooing al the passenger lerry termnal


is very interestng es thefe are many vessels
of all SCZ8S goong up and down the river.
There are several oflices nSlde the termnal
indudiog abank, open Lo 12.00 each day.
and a restaurant and bar tha~ over1ook the

s..........'1

"

Rp, .......

..

~LI'I""'"

'i

fW"

~. 6 .. " .... ~
c",.~

...t

__ " .........

<>ft"

/-/ o.

,,--

IZMAll

,
262

263

ROMAN lA

IZMAlL

IZMAlL MUSEUM

DANUSE

264

265

ROMAN lA
Romaola with ii

coas~lne

ports Tulcea. Sulma

of l20nM has four

Consanta

(Port Tomls)

and Margalla where II crulslrg yachtsmcn


can find shelter from the wnd and swell The
harbour ol Mtdya used !of lhe e~pott of
chemiCelS and fert,zers Ls not to be
recomrnen:led

for CM$lng yaehts especally

when the Yecht Harbour et pott Toms is


dOSE_ The Sulra channel allows enlfance to
the Oarube Rrver and out ol the canalzed
sectons sevElfal andorages an be enJOYed
n the ok Danube. Most of the Dan.be 0eIta
,s too ShaILOW for ii sa~ng yacht bul tnps an
be mae from Subna and Tulaa nto the
vrous trbutaries_ Much ol the dela LS a
nature reserve and speal permsson has to
obtained before VISltng. Srt ble n the
Danube Detta is unmatched and the della
conslitutes the largeS! unbroken reedbed In
"'" .OOd

Romanla Is sJow!y recoverlng from i\s years


under the commurls regime and later
dictatorship and much of Ihe prevlously
polluted Islld Is belng

eleansed

Unfortunately on the Black Sea coast of


Romania Ihere are no sutable andorages
Mos of the coas~,ne is everehanging due to
the varous oullelS on ol the Oanube and 115
tnbutares The ports lslad are worth avs
as \here LS mud lo see nlncln Ihs country
where foreign tounslS are mostwetoome
FORMAUTIES
In Romania these are smpla, On amval e
any of !he ports a yad is ~tad by Border
Polc and Cusloms, passports e~amned.
an enlrance stamp anaded and you are free
o raveL on departura fOf the nexl port n
Romama or on leaYing the Country the
sequence is repeated but this Ime with an
eKil stamp. No visas are requred from
passport holders of the EU bul other
nalionalilies should cheCk wlh Ihe
Romanian Emb.assy in their country of
domicile as the rules are changing The
offcials were generatly friendly and
weleom ing loa foregn yacht

The rate of

progress from old to new Is staggerlng

PRO\fISIONS

Many European shops have opened


bmrw::hes in Ihe ct,es vls,led. post offices
rnodern,sed and rebu'l! and beSi of alt the
publte lo,lels have been pnvatad
Now
\here s compallon lo sae who owns \he
deanesi.
The Captal cty of Budaresls worh avs
and can be readed from the coast by road,
ralorair,

The beaehes around \he ports are golden


sands and crowded wlh Romanans on
holiday, ReSOfts are boolt near the towns bJI
not on the vast scale ol Bulgaria
Promerades along the waterscle are weLL
cared for and are lioed wth rHtauranls and
beadcafes

266

Numerous large supermar1.els have opaned


and Ihe range of goods iS mmense. These
supermarkels have many mportecl brands
beside the Iocal and !here iS a markad
dllerence n prce, Frut and vegetabla salls
seLi local produce and are dot\ed around
street comers. I should be noted tha n
Romana shops ciose al 16.00 hours on
Saturdayuntil Monday momirg. Only a law
ouns type shops and cafes are open on
Sunday

COSTS

CURRENCY

local ,tems ol lood and eahng out Is


ne~peosive and proVldes a charce to taste
same ol the speGlal dishes ore ol which Is
Mamaha, a verson ol polenta it is seIVed
wlh everything and is very flling Soup s a
favounte of \he Iocals, usually seved wfth a
spoonful of aeam. ALI food is very tasty wUh
spcy sauces and served wilh copious
amounts of bread The Romanan wlrMi! and
beer gowell Wlth the flavourof \he food,
[)jesel is Inc~pensve and easoly avalable a
the hilrbouf's.

The currency is the Le! and In 2001 the rate ol


exchangewas 20Lel 10$1
Money must only be e~charged al an offlClal
change bureau or bank The pohce may
conli$eate mooey See11 dargng hands n
the street
Keep at dange papers lo
conlrm tha~ Li was eJldanged legally
Ctange any surplu Le b.ack to doUars
before kavng the country.

MEDICAL

are a hilppy frierXIY race


and \he interest shown In a visiling yadl is
mmense Many peopie wil miL LO have tietr
photos taken wth the yad!

In Suchares! toere are Wesem s'Y'e elnes


thal provcle quality care. Elsewtete medICIII
care s not yel up lo Westem standards
Chems! shops can u:.ually help of lhe
medca cenlre a same of the new resorts
calenng for foregn Yislors.

PE OPLE

The

Romaroans

TIME
Romanla

GMT + 2 hours

Summer

LANGUAGE
The language is Romanian based on atJn
and the scripl Roman so many s'gns can be
undersood, The secomllanguage Is French
but English is alsowidely spoken,

TRA\fEL
Travelling around Romanis is paless
Trans are the most effcient way as aU the
mads are nol ye up lo standard In the
Oanube delta Iocal femas are \he only way to
travel

267

PASSAGE NOTES
The

ROMAN lA COAST

roua

ROMAN lA

connectng

Uknne

to the

Romanan

lown of Tulcea va the Danube


Deha s deSCl'bed n the Uluane secton ol
tts book and the DanulM! connectior
belwoon Tulcea and Sulina n ths section,

South ol MKlya the coas~re changes to


become il successio of large hotels !romed
beautful sand beaches lor l00M untl
Constarla. il cily wilh ad9nsMI harbour

by

bfeakwalers and
870 24M. wtlct Is

The drect roule from the last Ukrainian port


to SuIina LS straghtforward from the norm as
iong as the law iyng tand otr the Oanube
Defta is given sufficient olling partculatly or
the lasl 5nM approach to Su~na channe
farway buoy
The control l(MIer on the
Sulina danne! breakwaer is conspa.'O"s.
the fairway buoy iies aboul 2nM east of the

UKRAINE

.-

nere

is often a
slream in this area

signfcant

$OUIh11Olng

lighthouse, Gp F1{2) 30s


r.nM irland,

is reached

..-

Yachts should not enter the Commerdal


hartxur bul go to Port Tomis about 2nM to

There are no sgnlicanl coastal features n


the 23nM from Port
i
i .
il
east cardnal
loM off-store wreck.. The
i
conspcuous

even

further

Cotslanla

The sea passage from Ust Dunaysk lo Sulna


passes many disvsed and unl buoys,
markng the former entry to ne canahsecl
Oanubesysem bul thsehannal is slted and
closed. it s replaced by the entry through Ust
Ounaysk.
From Suhna the sandy coasl nns southward
for 20nM to Gura Slanlul George. Gp Fi (2)
7s.48m.19M, arother mouth ol the Oanube
whd is LS completely bIocked with sard
bars. before li becomes a deep bay with
Mdya. a hrther 5OnM. All this area is na
and leatureless with shalkw waler a iog
wayolf the SIGeorge elbow

i
..

only 8 short distanca lo the Bulgarian


bo"<Ier w!h no remarkable coastal features

Belween Gura Sfanul George and Midya


Ihere was linle current bul alter thal point it
was once more a soulhgoing sl ream.
Nfgh! enty to all the harbours is prnetical
bul n sormy northeast winds it wotlld be
bener o wait for daylight to enler Sulna or
Port Tomis

South of here are a number of bn~antly h oi


and yas platforms and the hazard of
numerous lishing markers

There are no hartours ot shelt9f tetween


Sulina and Mdya whch is il iafge tarto.." for
the chemica works and relinene! n the
area No place for il yaclL For ntry n an
emergerey

~,~----~~----!"

1\

'arway is ma1<.1:Id

by il south
cardna buoy at N 44~ 19.0' ; E 28" 41.95' in
tOm, \hen folow il oourse of 335 ,"to the
harbour belween the red and green booys

the

"'"

268

269

APPROACHES TO TU".L,-,
CEA
= _ _~ ~

TUlCEA
ILiS il Port ol Enry and a usefulsepping place lor yachts amVlng lrom or leaving lor lzmalln
Ukrane

An ndus\nal own on the Danube 39nM lrom Sulina. it is the gaeway to the Delta paradse

,i

High s- Eed hydrofoils and _Iames

.!

AIongsde Town Ouay as di..aed No'""~

nver cumnl For ionger stay Akar

shpyard

may

assist
moorog po;ton
rroo'irlg pct6ibo1

.Appn?x N 45"11 .0': E 28" 41 _5'


Varous,

i i

not iess than 3m_

IIHF16

but sulJ!ecl Lo wast of passiog


Q.stoms. Border Police and
vist on amval. on depatJre ded; out WIth
authorities
E<eeIIent.

J
same

.!

\.

Tulcea 15 annually vlsited by thousands of


lourists lrom home and abroad.
Tulcea was founde<! as a Roman ly n Ihe
15t century AD and has aways been a busy
port A large alumnum smelter and shp
repair yards gve" an ar of a grubby town bul
the wa temonl s atlra;tYe

A smaR museum s slualed neKl. LO the


rvned dtadel al the foo!. of the hill on whct
lhe Independence Mon.mentlS bull'- Ths
was te ct'(s liberaton from TurkISh rule n

1878.

The Ali Gazi Pasha mosque buill at the


begnning of the 17th century has a mnarel
of 23 m and is the oldes Moslem
arditectural mooumerl in Romana . The
mosque shellers a part of the Museum ol
Onenlal Art ot;ects.
The National Hslory Museum has a
coecuon of Danube fish
and detaled
exhbits of the Danube wldl,fe_

Femes fasl and slow operale from Tulcea to


Galat and Sulina

-
,

,.

r-'~

...

~
.

i .

~ !

1
:

In the townships around Tulcea are many


sgls of the andenl civlsaton who ocopie(i
the !<rd . fortfica~ons al Babadag. il walled
city al Enisala ard aoothef waned city near
Murghol

270

"

'~

".

,r

...""1.....

271

ANCHORAGES IN THE DANUBE OElTA


There are three possbte anchorages
between $ulina and Tutcaa, two In the old
Danube and one opposte M1 4 on the $ullna
channel
The dena encloses 50.000
hedacres that provlCle a home to mora than
3,400 specoes of lIOra and fauna of whict 300
are birds ard 150 rl$h In 1990 Romama
R E S E RV E of
delta 15 aNatura
,~~;" and
publ but VISItS
can be made by tour boats from the varous
villages along the man cana!.
A yacht can expenerce the peace of the rivar
by arctonng n the old Oanube inowr as
Dunarea Vec.te entering I betweer Ma and
Mg Here there Is good eph and beirg
away from the current Is safe for swmmirg
proceed abotJt i nM into the river here
arctor aoo a pelican wlll vlsit At dusk so wiii
the mosquoes. so be preparad NOlhing
bul the song of birds and the occaslonallIsh
;umpng ThS arm oflh!! river joIns the main
chan~ agan between M3 and MI4 and
smail boats ma ke the tnp. Oepths unknown
and Ihe electnc cable menbOned below could
be a problem to yachls li raJOlnng th e man
channeL

Beween M13

and M14 is alarge thatehed


roofed hotet that appeared In 2001 to belng
renovae;l.

Altached lo ths hotel there was


an inlormabon centre whch was now eosed
Hopelotty li WiH reoper and lhB adacent jetty
repared. AJ this hotel s arotter entry to the
old Oanube bul Oilura couid not enter aS a
pnvate electncty cable has been rlQ9ed
between two touses on opposte sodes of the
rvBfW1th a c1earanceofonty O metres.

,,

9"

Opposrte MI4 iS arother rver bmnch but \hs


seemed Vert shaJIow and ctoked wth
weeds. There is a slet III the entrarce and
the eastem sde ol ii s the better approact to
the anchrage.

......

.bt

'l tw..

'L~Li~!<~~
Q

.5'

The afventuroos witt plenty of time wm flrd


m any more archorages in the backwaters
and the Iocal fishemen are keen to assist.

.....
..

, Ono...... Li ."

... 'i

"

,.

'""

OUNAREA V E CHE

1
OUNAREA VECHE

. .. _

273

272

-- '

-.

SUlINA

5UlINA

The quaY$ a Suhna are dear1y seen on approach lo lhe viIIage, II approachng from Ihe sea
the Duty Free area is the first quay of the Port side ol the nver and has an attractve house In
the trees behnd L. Otl'ef quays fOf mooring lo lie further up the rivar pas the abvous fel'l'y
statIOn,

on firsl appearanca

, From F_ay Buoy foiow


!hen iow -iywg breakwater.,

FOf Iongstays il yachl can te alongsde n


zone bilsin % nM easl of tawn where ~
the wash 0/ passng shlps .1s
, Do 001 use .~ ,,<,~

_rnmgration
on amrol On depar1ura check oul

Sulina iS a I"ed dusty


rtversde lown bul the many old Churehes
and the large cemetery wlU memonals to
English and French snow the !armer
importance of the tawn AIIhough busy wlU
sman s,hipping through the Sulna dannel 1\
is by--passed by large shps who use the ma
canal lo the Black Sea from Cemavoda to
Constanta,

on exploraon l has somethng to oII'er the


yachtsman.
The tree lined riverfront
promenade runs from the Trade Free Zone to
the fislKannng lactory and is ined wlth an
old churd. parks. cales and saveral smail
supemar1<.ets. Behind it lles a street 'hm !'NO
large old churches and the mar1<.et and !he
bank wth Currency Exchange and Vlsa cas,h
withdrawals nere s no ATM, There is a
smaU Inteme care but the connecton s
oflen dlfk:ult
The lormer concrele square shoppng
centre . built in communs! times is d8felicl as
is the cinema bu buildng ol new s~s and
houses in the traditional style is n progress
to replilce these former ayesorB5,

--

goods amve by fell)' from


Tulcea and the arrivl of this ferry is the
tghponl of the day lls mmneo amvill,s
merked by ii parade of donkey carts and
barrows lo the ferry dock. Holidaynakars
am~ the same way Lo camp 00 the beach
abou2km from the town of lo slay in some of
the prvae house s Ihill provid e
accommodation. This golden teach IhiII
stretches fOf miles is eKoellenl for swlmming
The area of the town away from the river is
surprisirgly Large and is covered W1th
traditlora Romanian houses each wth a
large garden burs~ng wth produce that s
said in the Iocal market
RiVer trips car be laken wlU the fal'l'y and the
one recommended is lO take the momng fasl
boat. a "Ylng do/phn. to Tulcea and relum
afler lunCh wU the sow ferry that coIlects
and delvers goods to the vanous smail
awn$

on the n~rsde.

.... ~"'''')'

~i

e...,"

i' olf the mao road system of

Romana sl

As Sulos

.uo,

to-r

, "s"c.e:, r

,,

2<!" 0.6,.'

~. 0<'1', r :2.,1"5'_2
'
~ 0'1'''' r 2,1.",. 0

_ _-

....... : C...._ _

....

"" ...

.....

j~ ~--.

.-o:M.,....
s ..... ,;

(,....-.,..~

_off;u

i ... ......

Ci ' .............. 01-

.. '":...}.,....,

........
.."

..

-';)01;"'-

~~

.. ""ol

- ;-wc M; IL"",

. -i

,'.
,

4)

.-

j
Il ...,.

C-,",-/,:''''
f-'J
q... .....
....,.._ . _ _
.

.. c-.~,...."'"

.. "'"

~~
.ko ......... j .."'"

274

_............
..

,.
,
_1"1

I"M .

...

i
SULlNA

Falrway Buoy N 48 08.0 ' : E 29 46.5'

275

CONSTANTA (PORT TOMIS)

The large breakwaters ol the Commerclal harbour hide Poo Toms Y3Ci1 harbour when
approacllog From the south a yad sails pas \he enrarce lo the Commereal hatour and
both breakwalers belore tumng towards the Yactl harOOur. The attractiVi old bulclngl! are
ar lndcaton of the harbour etrarce From the rorth the yad\ harbour breakwaers are

dift'iaJlt to dsbrg.ish as coastal proecloo groyres are built around \he adjaceo SWlmmng

be""".

There are red and greer lighl str.ctures on the end of tte yadl harbourwells
onca Irsfde vsbrg yadts have to he elorgside the outer end of the breakwaer es yachts and
fishing boats on moorngs occ.py the res
The sheer is rot as good as it appears and oflen a well enters makrg t uncomloable. if
leal/ng the yadt here ask if a poslor iS Iree amongsl the moored yahs and Ile well off the
quey

.. ""

1 5M from shere, dflic:uH by day.


al righL nere ii; e stallow
of tarlour ertance A yeiiow buoy
rectangular lopmark is in posrton N
, E 28" 40.4' in IOm s a onvenlen

buoyor final approach. ~:~::.,,,

__

"

PORT TOMIS

- ..
~

"'! ...."

..

1100..1,
y-c;,.

'*
_ ...........t.

...
, ..... ......
,.-...

i .... _...,.
~,

.,..;.

10:'

.r,

__ .p,.

N 44 10,7 ' : E 28 39.75

,m"," ho""'"' "'.;

4406.25' E 28"42.T Oreleflngor


stay more to rorth sda. $wel sxges 111
soutt brealcwater.

T_.

, Ro.ot
_ _ o .".,..,;.
"" ..........

&~

raqured

works 111, so generous


After de<:kng in ~ ould be

i
On departure acivse Coastguard
time and

'"" Offi<, .,.

, s,I __ W
-~

--

";_,,.

......
... , ,-

._....,;....

,. "

A.~

......

,",,""-:I.

iI .\O+~.,
l ......

.. "110 ..

d.". .. "

= _ "i " " _

.. C . , , _
'" (

'1.s ..

.... , b.....
" . ~_

"... e" ,,,.


'I"

276

277

CONSTANTA

CONSTANTA
on appfOach. Consanta does rot seem ~ery
attractve wilh the large main harbour
breakwaer and many unfinished ooncrete
buldirgs, bul onoe tied up In Port Toms, the
yachtng habour aLi changes

Whal a oontrast lo Sulna AttractiVe old


buildings of varyrg stye overlook the yacht
harbour.
Constanta. the second large,t cy of
Romanla. is Iocated on the acerl Greek
city of Tom and rhabted snce the 6'
century BC. The Commercal harbour is the
man gate of Romanta Lo the Black Sea and
sil1aled halfway between Istanbul and
Odessa the harbour has atways bilen a
usefu/ sopping piace.
Sleep steps ard a path lead from the ya.ctt
harbour to Ihe old lown and the
Archaeological Museum stuated n Ovd
Square, where there is a statUI:! of Ovd who
was exiled lo Constanla ,n Ih 8~ century.
This musaum, n an old rlslOfed manslon.
orignates from a private coIleclon of the
mayOf In 1879. Since then i1 has xpanded
and displays the twenly four r' century
Roman satues diseovered when the traln
station was beng rebuill.
$ome oflhe artfacts are dplayed n a smail
park next o which is a large buldng
protectng the Roman pa~ed nosac and
edfice Ths wasdiscovered in 1959 and !efi:
,n MU. From the original suface of 2000
square metres 700 square metre, is
preserved. Ths exhibition is well presented
and vef)' irteres.ng

278

Ir

the cty are several mosques - a estamoo


to when Consana fell to Turksh rule it s
possible to ehmb lo the lop of Ihe mnare for
a vew o~er the cy CIos by is the Orthodox
CCllhedral and
the Roman Calhohe Church. A wlde
promerade, a popular place for an eveniog
strol. leads from the harbour lo the Art
Nouveau caSIOO and the aquanum opposite.
The commercial eenlre of Conslanta
canlans many modem stops and severn
large supermarkets Many ATM mactines
and lnt&me\ ccfes are spread throughoul this

...,

Muse.m

and art ganenes are seattered in


many c:omers of the own and wth the wde
street3 li a pleaseni place lo s!rol\.
Aroond Constanta are several holiday
resorts From Ihe town cantre steps lead to
the pubhc bIIach where the water and sands
are surposngly dean bul crowded. Beach
ccfes abound n th,s area for an inexpensive
snaek.
AI the harbour the restaurant Is beng
e.erded and gooo meals are available
here
Showers

ard tolets

have alsa bilen buil! at


enrance gae to Ihe harbour.

279

MANGAlIA
The large breakwatef"S are seen from afar ogether with the many shps andored off.
In the nortt comer of the commercal port of Mangalia the flshirg hamour has been dredged
and a smail harbour for yadl! coostructed.

""'_...-

Red and G"een buoys on enuy and the


at emry to inef basn. Fislwg toats

,.
ber1h.

from here to yachl


Then proceed
basn and Harbourmaster will visrt and
shps papers. On depanure the procedure

i
.i-

--

.....
"

MUSEUM

MANGALlA

28.

Falrway Buoy N 43 47.75" : E 28 36.35'

281
-

."._--

MANGALlA
The commeres por ss well as sheltering
!heyacht harbouraso cootains a arge naval
harbour and most ol the Romanan naval
power iS based there lt ls an extellent pate
to leave a yacht LO( avst to Bucharest o(
elsewhere n Romana

The autontes were a! very quck and


helpful both on arnval and departura In Lad
the del customs o/f(;ef even came to take
u& out 10 show us the surroundng ares on
the day ol our amval.
Mangaha attracts tour group! from Belgum
and France who come 10 lake the suptUf
spmg water curss. The adjilcen beadss
are crowded wth happy Romanans and the
leel about the whoie town Is one ol reaxaton
and enjoymen

The harbour is OOse to the pedestnan way


leadng to the town centre where aU supplies
can be lound
The frul and vegetable
market has !resh Iocal Items and there are
several supermarkes in the street across
from the harbouf These are ol the point and
ask type, no selI serviCe as we knowl. The
man sree leads o alarge roundabaul
where n the YOI,Jlh Cenlre Ihere is s good
Internet Centre.
SUfrounding Ille
roundabout are cafes ol vanous types.

.s

Walking slong the promenade north ol the


hotel thl!fl! is planty Lo see and enJOY. A
sulpllur spnng snd s 6th century baslca are
nesr the hotel Msngaha and /unher on is the
Mangaila taboraory where studies were
made 0I1he 32 new species datng from we
moo years ago laund in the Movlle cave in
lmanu . The
2QOm long cave was
dscoverud n t 986. The cave was previously
dosed to the public bul avisit can be
amnged through s ny ol Lhe larger hotels

BULGARIA

For eating 001 the only problem is Ihe large


doicel

Food Irom all countnes appears to


be avalable especia lly Irnhan, wlh e~cel(en
pizza and ooffoo.

M>,... b:>ut'

A!4ul-riln", E E~

S ~'ff-n

.--.
.. ISo"',.
.. AT""

The Ardaeologcal Museum. on the main


street iS n an attractve buildlng and has a
good coIlecton of Roman $culptures They
are well dsplayed and the arcien\ grave
makes a good home LO( some ol the finds
By the ses fronl the Hotel President has
made s WOOderfUI success of exhbtng Ih8
parts of the old town thal were dscoyered
during the buildlng ol the hotel RamalOS of
the citadel from the 2nd LO 7th entury,
incIudlrg sewefS. bahs and a part ol the old
waP are sl displayed n the hotel basemenl

Su~

".Olrlcaw

ar............ "'fe

LO .... us~' ...

" Of'-'- ..... or .......

.... Esr'e
G l40twl ' Prqo.c...~ '
:t

... i ......

t"'"

v...._n:

"""p

'" I'"inir.. etw.n....

282

283
E

- - - - . . . . , . .

_ _

Currlg

the cruse we spoke with many


PeOPIe over the d;rreu~ stuation lor e
Cl'Ulslng yach and a dratl Transl Log has
now been p-epared which should be in
operation in Summer2002 All officialsin the
tarbours agree that the system must be
altered to attrad yachts to thelr land and it s
hoped that wth the recen change n
Government same prograss will be made

BUlGARIA
The 165 nM Black $eC! ooas\ of Bulgaria
offers cruisng yachtsmen a selelon ol
sopping places Aochorages range from
wild rock)' bays. sandy ooves, smail manna
lyp8 harboul'S. fishlng pons o commeraal
harbours Okura vistte<! 25 piaces where a
radl c:ould stop and have vaylng degrees
ol shter from the swell or wlnd
Oue to 5&llng restrictlons In force in 2001
one anctorag.e was visted by car w,th c Iocal
yachtsman, the rema,ndef _
viMed by
yachl etherlegally or dlegally.

The waters are dean, the sandy bays in the


toIiday resorts swept daly anc e~ceIlent
swmmog is possble

from the genty sloping

beaehes.
The average summer
temperature of the wal8f LS 26 ;legrees
Sailing is enpyable between May and the
efld ol Septembel" elhough n May and
Septembel" a shon unsettled perIOd can be

expeete<! In summer" Is very hol bu usally


a saa breeze provides some coojng affecl
during the day A strong northerly wnd
somalmes

bul July

blows LO( several days In August

erd Sepamber

are noted for light

wnds_

August LS THE hOday monlh In Bulgaria and

the beaches
holdaymakers

are crowded

with

from

Europe and local


Bulganans who come Lo eojoy Ihe beaeh and
mghtMe OI$CO$ abound n the resons but
the sma harbours are a presert free of

"m.
Many yachts 118 n at the harbours bul they
are moslly used for day trps w l h
holidaymakers o adacent arcl'or3ges
However we dd meel a few who were
cruisng and !hey _re elitrame!)' fren.dly
and helpful especially 8bout anctorages and
harbours to visit A chandler eusls n vama
with a brarch a GOIder Sands Manna.

A yacht should come well supporte<! by


spares. as they mostly have lo be importe<!
Emergency repairs can be made at mos
harbours although the
standard of workmanshp will not be o
Intemauanal st<ndards and good fiberglass
work can be handle<! al the harbour at
Tzarevo where a company bulds

PROVISIONS

ca.am ar. ns.

Stopping

is possible n aH ....lages and


towns In Vama !here s even a hyperma<,<e
cane<! Metro. In vllages JUs! a smaO
mirimarket saUng baSC supples or 11"l the
towns large nte rna tonal shops wth
everythng for sale
Fresh frul and
vegetables are pvrchased !TOm smail stans
somebmes n a ma<'<et piace other times a
rardom spos but fresh mea was hard o
find. mostly beng frozen.
All types ol
sausages are aval able. In the momng the
bakers have a selaction of to cheesa ples
aOO buns and these form breaklas IOf most
Bulganans. Bread is bought from Iha mn
ma<'<et. Street lood is essential for the oca
poople and there Is no need o go hungry
owing lo the e:elle nl choice of snaeks lrom
the usual boi led comcobs lo fr&"Sh waffles
fi lled with chocolate or jam

FORMALlTIES
In 2001 the Pons of Entry were Balchk.
Vama and Bourg3S, and t was necessary to
check in and out of these pots belere
proc r eding to the next, the passport beng
stamped witt an in and out stamp by Border
Police However Bourgas has a system that
n ex change for the Ships Papers aOO a lee of
30$. il Tempomry Navlgaton Certllcae
(Crosng Perm it) was issued that allowed
free passage arouOO Ihe waers from
Nesebar lo Aktopol on cooditlon ha lhe
nght was spenl in one ol si designated
harbours. These har"boUrs werelsted on lhe
Cni sing Permrt. It S necessary o return to
Bourgas lo check oul and obtan 8 Clearance
Cerl fc a le and I he Shlps Papers
Fortunately il arcular cruse can be planned
around the harbours n the area.
Varna did not use ths scheme and it was no
passible lo cruse n Ihe area . On checkng
out of Vama a permt was ssued for the ne~t
POn of Enry, Bourgas

Bulgaria is famous for ils wine The cosl LS


minimal and the quality S very good. The
white wine Muskat and the red Me101 are to

be recornmerecl.
White wne is otten served wlh lemon and
ice In resaurants and is a very rafreshng
drink local beor s brewed and s available In
bottles. cans or draught. Impcwted beers are
also avalable.
Orinkng beer n B ulgara iS ofen
aceopaned by a plate of ehps with grated
cheese overthem.
MenU5 are dtlicult Lo read, In the man
tounst resorts menus are also in English but
f not usually som one appears who can
speak same Englsh, A Iocal s.alad skopska
and a whte cheese dsh sIIopska styte make
a vllfY adequate and raasonabla meal
(Skopska meaning from the area of Sofa).

Okura enered Bulgana n Billchck and was


unable to come and go from the harbour until
the final depam.ra when il perm't was lSSed
to trave to Vama.
Casl of checking out of each pot ol Enlfy
wasin200 1
Lassthan 12 metresloa
LOS
Over 12 metres Da
505
As takan from Shps Papers
it iS ntended that this tax be wthdrawn

TRAVEl
Bulgana 15 easy wth many
nteroonnectng buse and an efficiem train
servce. Buses nn along the coast hnking the
varous hohday resorts and il s no problem to
vs! same ol the large ones for aday.
A \np to Sofia can be made!TOm the coas by
bus, \ran of ar and if possible should be
ncI.cied n a cruLse o Bulgari.a
Additiona!
tnps can be org.anized at aoy Trave Ageol at
the larger resorts
The roads are well mantaned and an
overland trip !TOm Europe to;om the yacht
couid reallstically be conSIdered
Travel

COSTS

AB Iocatems are ne~peosve but mported


Iems such

as doUes carry hgh ta::&"S. Hotel


prices ara basecl on supply and demand aOO
are often high especally n Agust where
lhere Is I"IOfIT\8lly not a free hotel bed lo be
had Eabng out 15 wetl wthn anormal
bLKIget.
MEOICAL SERVICES
In the large hoel complexes th ere are
medcal centres whid appeared modem
and n the larger towns hospltals are evlden
and olfer salsfactory treatmenL
LANGUAGE
The language L1seS the Cyrillic alphabel so
slgns are dffleult Lo recognze The second
language appearad to be RLlSSan but many
spoke English.
CURRENCY

The CLlrret\CY is the !eva and n 2001 the rate


of e_change was 2 OSleva to 15
the counlty the.e are many
Exchange Bureau
TIME
Bulganan staOOard uma

GMT +2 hours

285

284
-

....".-

--

BULGAR1A

PASSAGE NOTES

BULGARIA COAST
The Romanian I Bulgarian border is mar1led
by two white ca ims, one on Ihe shore Lhe
other on a smail corical hill.
Contnung

southwards the coastal scenery


changes to roIling grassy hills. The octagonal
red and whte \OWef of Nos Sablos light GpFI
(3) 20s 36m 17M, 1$ conspicuous There isa
iong open jetty pro,ec\ng east from cIose o
ths lighl. The coasl then drfts to the west
becomng hghefWlth

50m

hgh whte diffs 0/

Nos Kaliyakla. FIW5s 67m 21M. 25nM south


of the bofder. This s a sgnficanl neadland
often with strong gusts and \he change 0/
directior of wind.

Varna Commeroal

Ekrue

c:::::'"~

sheered

ths

headland
conains harbours for yadts ai Kavarna.
Baldik . Golden Sands Manna and Varna
Yad Club as well as numaroos bays and
smail harbo..rs for lunch tme slaps. Several
marin as a re alsa in Ihe eourse o f
constructon. Baichik and Vama are Pons of

tJ. . .. .

Q.,l& ... " 5>.".ts

"-Y'EVI<lin=g ...... t-

by

Enlfy
is elilfs and deep
here lo Vama an almas
corlOO\.ls g<jden bead backed by pna
foress. Numerous hojd ay resons line the
coasl bul there are sbll same quie bays o be
found.

1
,,

.....,..

.
,

Baldik

From Baldk south . rocks lie aif lhe shore


and every headland further \han the smail
scale charts avalable ,ndcate Ttese are
desenbed for each harbour or anct::rage A
maor hazard is the Monasery rocks ot!
Golden Sands Manna,

'

easly

seen

From Nos Galata. Gp fl(3)15s 63m 2SM the


coast nns due south for 32 flM lo Nos
Emine. F16s 64m 2OM. wtha few small rock)'
ptOI'OOOlo1H. Hefe are many attractive
white sard beaches fronbng gerUe green
hlls. oflen with axtensive \'ineyams In ths
settng is the pleasant anchorage ol Byata
fyng betnd Nos Sveli Atanas.

From Nos

Emne

wesl to ihe

the Cim fringed coasl tums

alractive
o

peninsular

town ol

Pomorie_ with

ls off~

bank. to enler the bay of Bourgas


25 drect flM. south west from Nos Emine.
iyng rocI:.y

Bourgas

s ii

busy commercial port that is

clean and ""elcomes yachls II mu!! be


vsle<! as 80\)(ga5 'S THE Port af Enry
Issuing the necessary papewOli< lo enable ii
yacht to cruse betwen ByaJa and the
lunnes

The coastl ne to
va lleys and from

is

and Vama Yacht Club nSIde the harbotr can


arrmge a berth for vlS!tOfS.

Nesebar thin !WUth

The large bay

hartxur

south Bulganan

hrtovf

of Aktopol.

The nont coast of the bay of Bourgas


shallow aOO no inerest to 11 crusng yachL

1$

From Bourgas SOUlh o Tsarevo the coas! s


e crulslng yadrs elght wlh maoy smail
ooves end harbours n 25nM of coaStl 'O(!
wllh Sazopot. famous for its old houses, and
the nslurs reseNe of the Ropotamo RVef.
The badldrop is a pleasanl mtx of rocky
neadlands. sandy bays and smail towns wth
green hlls behind Fortunalely the hghnse
loIday developmenIS have not arrived,
From TsareY(! the coast heads souheas lo
Akopol 6nM dIStani and the border with
Turkey anccher 1OoM. The SCenefY remans
smlar bul the hs are togh.ef. up to 500m.

!?cr.. h ' .....


The current is geneally south gOlng and
weak irom Nos Kayallfa but wth cioclcwse
eddes n the bays 0/ Vama and Bourgas .

14. M.<>4l"n i'b6

286

--- , ..
287

KAVARNA
The harbour s easfy spotte<! beneath a hgh

""'.

whle

cone shaped hill and the large s!fos

the

CAPE KAlIYA KRA


The harbour iS part of a sman beach vinage
about 2 km down a steep road from !he
hillsic!e viIIage of the same name. A hgh
wh,te hill fanns the enractve background lo
the bay The pon Is used for the export ol
grain it is e gOOO base for explor1ng the
surroundng dtfs espedafly Capa Kallyakra
whch is worth avisil

The harbour

iS sfowly be'ng mproved

but
unkrtuanlely due Lo the shape of the
SUffOUndng tand and the bnlakwaterthere iS
a conbnuous battfe agnsl the sandwt.ch is
washed n w,th every strong wnd
In 100Ilhere was 3.5 metres at the oorttem
breakwalElf but mos plces were ocaped
by flshing boas_ A sandy beach forms !he
shore slde of tie harbour. ()Yer the tas lew
years the central moie has been extended
but itefe is no possblly for a yacht to be up
here l. yach could hoWevef anctor in !he
bay formed by the breakwateB wtlefe!here
isgood sheer

Cape Ka fiyakra LS easly vsted from


Kavama. Ths 50m Cape 0"91'$ excellen
YleWl> and spoctacular sunsels from lls
restauranls bui~ nlo Ihe dffs_
A

ca v e

holds a smaff museum


commenorating !he defeat of the Turksh
Navy in 1791 by the Russan Admral
Ushakov In addtion the mns of ii cladel
dahrg from 4th century
and laer
extended by the Romans are sprea<! OVElf the
head fand

ac

A smail chapel lo St NidoIas the patron


$ilm of safors fies on the pathway to the vElf)'
endoftheCape

The Cape s best onsted earty momng of Iate


altemoon as it s on the program of many IOur
operalOl'S_

The main towr is lamous for Its fresh water


spnngs whch SU'IC8 ndent times have
provided Mning WlIter to the nhabitants
There s a da~y frestl fNII and vegetable
market

b_"_~ I,.>

....... p"~,

"''"_....,1>
1

KAVARNA
288

N 43 24.65"; E 28 21 .4 '
289

BALCHIK
From Nos Kalyakra several breakwaer are coospcuous bul theyare for coasa l proecon
The Cl'arKl$ a lhe commercal po are obvous, The yact hartxur lies inside Ihe soulhem
breakwater of the commerClal hartxur. II is beneath these cranes that 11 yach mus tle on
amval for checkng n before procedng o the yachl hartour

.. ,,_.-4 . ' .

-.'

'

~.

The ligton the and ol breakwaer

angIe ol 45 from sea eve


1 metre above,Crnws converan to be to

wes l side of

man bfeakwaler for~~::ii

and Harbourmasler. Than go to


hartxur,

- - i
,

,.

...

2 . ....

Cusloms and Border Pohce do

N 43" 24.10 ': E 28" 10.0 '

BALCHIK

,-...
1""1.

, ,... 'R' "


~

M..i.. r"cI-

S ,,110

C'I' ...

C. oJ_ '. " " _

tnl,"O'"

---

<t

"'"l'" t"

II _

ES I....

.......

C.. : _
,. aq.o.""

( ... _

6,"_1

,,-._

B o..t-. .ii

!lo

" T"

R,....

290

----------.. __

-----

291

GOLDEN SANDS MARINA

BAlOilK
Founded in the 6th cenlury BC the bay was a
safe haven for merchants watng lo round
Cape Kahyakra as weLL an mportanl centre
for wne makng
Its Greel< name wa5
Oionysopohs after the greek god ol wre.
That harbour sltcd up in the 6th cetury and
the towr was later called Bak:ho~" 'tow ol
day' by the Turks

The c:rumbng wMe hi"s and green rees are


an altractve Slght 01'1 arrMng in the area
surround'ng Baldlk From the water the full
exlenlof the lown, m.ct of t beng hidden
behnd the hlls_ cannot be seen and it
appears as a smll .... age spread alOng the
,ho,"
A pteasanl small yachl harbour full of trip
boats Ies at the loot ofthese hll$ bul room is
aIways found lor a vs~ng yactt.
The town hes behnd the hlls and is reached
by step; or a steep road and olfer, many
shop; spread amongsl stone bult houses
wtose gardens um~e down the hllsdes
Two banks and several change shops so!ve
rnooey problems but there was no ATM (the
nearast bell'lQ in Albena 20 mnues by bu5.)
Cklse lo the sealront are \wo internet cafes
and a smail l ruit and vegetable ma fl.et.
Every mom,1'lQ the baker makes hol cheese
pes and slces

The batante gardens surroonding the palace


COfItans

many exoUc plans

The protective walls of the marina are dfficult lo see eganst the hotel buildings. In summar a
large purple and red lenl for the clrcos Inehcates lls poSlllOO. The large shed fOf winler slorage
s also elliden!.

Smail SWlmmng areas have been created


along the promenade wtct s lined by many
cafes
To the east of !he harbour area s e beach
and 8km firIheJ easl s ihe Tou"st Comple<
Belta! Briag wtuch is an enoilOUS seasde
parl\ , a childrens" paradse and near here en
area of salt lakes wtid supp/y mud !of the
spa vtage of Tuzlata

- E 28" 04 3"

For a day of ;iv,lsation on ihe beach ihe 20


monu!e !np to A1bena Resort iS WQrthwnl!e
even f only \o see the style of ihe hvge
hotels. The resort provides a wonderful
combtraboo of wann catm sea and a wde
bead covered w,th smoolh sand Ths wel'
!ad oul resort scaltered through the lrees
wth beau~ful garens is a complete holiday
centre .
From one ol the man~ kosks by the
palhways Enghsh, Frenct and German
books are available,

A promenade runs lor severl kilometres


aiong the seaSde passng the Boanie
9ardens and Oueen Mna's Pa~ce The
enrance lo these is lTOm the man Baldlk Lo
A1bena road about a kIomera from the
harbour entrance but \here IS an elUl ai the
watersde cafes from where " s e pleas.anl
wallc backlOtheharbour.
This foily built in 1924 combnes Butganan.
Otiena and gothc elemenlS_ Queen Mana.
a grnd daugtter of Queen Vcton.a Oldered
several follies to be bult here aloogsde her
vlla wnct is opped with a minaraUndcatng
the reeoncilation she wished between her
Chnstan and Musm subjects and inspired
by her Turl\'Sh Iover

3-:!.O T

~ -

""

M O NASTERY ROCKS

293

292

------.. - -

-------

SMALL HAR80URS 8ETWEEN 8ALCHIK AND VARNA

GOLDEN SANDS MARINA

A large toIday resot w,th more than 80


hoIels spread along !he ree covered hIIls
wht a beach of golden sand s!tetetklg lor
miles There is wonderf\.t swnvnng in this
we kept resx1, Although r Surnrner h Is a
very busy place the large area li covers gv65
a leelng of space and it s pleasant to vlsil lor
af_days

The marina at the norttem eod of the rosor!


iS compaet and friendly and ;;mtans many
daly tnp yachts
A space can usually be
manged fOf a ~is~ng yachl.ln 2001 a yacht
v,sbng here musl have sa ltng perrmsso
ether

from Vama

of Balchk

RIVIERA

A pleasanl walk from the Manna is through


the Harchuka Fores! by a well malted path
lo
Aladzha Monas!efY Here ceIls and
c:hambefti hewn from the dlfs form the
ancenl mooastery
The caves were
occ.ped n the Stone Age and snce the 5th
cenury a Chnsban eturch existed here and
the moraslery IlSelf was estabhshad dunng
the 13th cenlury, The monks palnted several
murals and the laded ramalns can Sllll be
seen.
Due lo the nch cokurs n thase murals Ihe
manastery eamed lls name lrom the Tultsh
word Aladja (coIourful).

A smaQ sandy t.art:o.r stuated beiow a


promnent

Nne of pylons runnng througt a


wooded hill. The enrance s a N 43 16.4
E 28" 02 r Smail yachlS and day salofs
use thS port as il is away from the busUe of
Balchk .
The adjacen! sandy bay s a
popular spol fOf day trip from Balcnk and
same buoys are !ald there IOf Ihe use ol
lhese commercal boats

1
,

t t t

altho.gh

"'

museum at the entrance shows


tow the sle once Iooked and var'Ous
d,scovered in the caves from
BC. An earfy moming vsl LS .........nmended
dua to the open situaon of the dlts and the
hea tha they reflecl,

prevously t

was a Port of Entry, A crws


adJOlos the manna s~e and IfS p.rple, red
and whte lenl is a vefY good malter for the
marina whct iS dificult lo spo amongst the

Ar e:eellen

hotes,

There Is a smaK chandler n the Marira Offce


Buildng where there are also shower and
tollet faClllbes

RIVIERA

N 43 16.4': E 28 02. 7'

Fresh foad can only be purc:hased from


same of Ihe smail kiosks spread throughou
Ihe holday viIIage or from a smail
supermalte thal supplies the needs of
toIdaymakers al Ionst pncesThere are
res!aurants of all types and rany las foad
stab

i
o,

_.

PISATEl
(Sunny Bech)

The

_.

"""'i_offLJ

~ u
"!b ; lc.

'"

..

.,
'-

trap bed

the Inside ol the


breakwater poston N 43" 14 8' E 28"01.8'
Hmfts the amounl of room n thIS harbo.r lt is
mostly used by Irp boal$ collecting
passengers from the nearby hotels

fist

"
...,-~

PISATEL
GOLDEN SANDS MARINA

N 43 14.8 ': E 2801 ,8 '

N 43 18. 0 ' : E 28 03,2'

--

295
-

SUNNYOAY
The shallcw entrence of Ihs harbour at
poston N 43" 14.6' E2S001 'f IS ma1<ed by
smaIl red and greer bouys. The maxmum
deplh is I.Sm bul dredgng is $Cheduled
The hartour beIongs to en atractve hotel
set on !he pine woods ebove a golden sand
bead. onc;e dredged ,{ wol provde good
shelter

VARNA BAY

i!
i

.~ \

"--::.:-:-...... ::--..i!"'!

SUNNY DAY
N 43" 14.6': E 28 01.4 '

./

z,

S
'Q

, i

, / :
.... , l
1

.\

SAINTELlA
(Grand Hotel)

:0(

A new harbour is under consln.c\On at


post>On N43 13.3' E 28" 007' clo$8 to a
large OIue glazed hotel
No deta'ls were

avaolabe .

'.

\
.~

..

"

SAiNT EllA

.\. .

N 43 13.3 " : E 28 00.7

'.

EVKSINOGRAT
wlh ii lght pro\ects a bay
provdng excellen shell8f at pos.ton N 43"

A mallwater

13.0' E 2"" 592'. When the Pnme M,nseris


n resodera at the !!dacent patace thIS
anchorage and surrounding re re dosed
UsuallyA.gust Informaton from navtex

,
N

EVKSINOGRAT
N 43" 13,0' : E 2r 59.2'

297

296

..

-'-

VARNA YACHT ClUB


The large breakwatElf of the commereial harboor ol Yama sheers the Yad Club
whtCh s no visble untlth8 main harbour is enlered

sde of Nos Galata IocaIIarge scale


shows 7m over these.

mas ler wil issue peml. 011 departur8


payment of fees. only ther wi" passport

CATHEDRAL

OPE RA HOUSE

~~:~~::~~~
i;
For:e

and even to south


5 in the afternoon and earty

i
i

-,,
.~

~,

y_... c ......

~,

, ...... q-~

VA RN A

298

N 43 11 .3': E 27 55.4'

299

.... ~----

VARNA
Behnd

lhe man bfeakwaer ol the large


commerdal tlarbour is Yama Yach! Club: il
vstng yacht tes here. Vama s a Port ol
Entty and all offlClals wlf vs! the yach! tolh
on arrval and depar1ure when pe"sson
wl!1 be gven Lo vs! the neKI port of Entry of \o

leave eugana
The seaport proves il shellered piace to
leave a yachl lof eKpIonng te be8utf.ll;wn
olVama.
A iong road along the breakwater leads from
the Yad Club \o te man road and from
!here a walk trough the old own armes a
!he man peestran and shoppng area. The
Ethrographical Museom n an old wooden
house 'S in the area ol the old own and is
wothavs't

The Opera House proVides a backdrop for


coIlections of cales and restaurants and is
the main socialnd bankng centre ol Vama
wlh many ATM machlnes and Intemet
Cafes. Department stores seli every kind ol
European goods Walking through the
nearby park lired wl h ourist souver,r kosk s
00(1 passes the Old Clock Tower Ahead is
the domed Cathedral ol the Assumption
;onstn,cted n 1666 alan9 Ihe lines of Si
Pearsb\Jrg Cathedral aM an the lefi iS a
markel sellng fresh Int and veget.ables

Retumng

to the pedestran area ths


connues for several klometers ~ned wlh
boutques and cafes_ A busy road from here
!eads to a large park thal opens out on Lo e
pleasanl beach Contnue aong Ihe
promenade towards the tlarbour and the
Naval Museum iS easy to spot and across
from ths is an ok hOSPtaI now the Muse.m
of Medical History Ths has an assorunen
of aneusm and not 50 a:;ent med<:al
instnmenls ogether wth early x-ray
madnes and denlSrs surg&ry_
it s wel
dspiayed and an english !ealle s supploed.

The iong roadway back to the


nowcloseathand_

Yadl

Club

7 km ou! oftown there is a large hypermarket


called Metro. Ths is a shop with a 10talIy
European feel. seleeon of goods and
standards, sellng everylhing at exceUen
prices bul in 2001 only for cash Here we
sawlheonly fresh maa! In Bulgaria- normally
deep--fro'len. The bus from the Passenger
Termnal 900s to the Cathedral and from
there anather bus 900s to Ihe Supermarket
or lake bus 22 from the Ra,lWay Staton
An nlereslng outmg s o the Stane Forest
18km from the harbour wth many stand ng
stones, some as high as 7 metres. scatered
in scrubland,

Behnd

the Cathedral are the fIower markel


and the Post Office_ some dstance from the
PosI 0fIiCe on \he same street Ies the man
market Buses to Golden Sands and other
holiday reSO'ls stan from n Iront of te
Cathedral.

Several Yachl Clubs are based n Varna Lake


bul a vsl to \hem w,1I only be passble once
\he new Regulators for foregn yadts oome
into force
A buoyed chal'Ine! under the
bridge w,th 50 metre dearance enters the

ok.

and Alt cortans


,ems da\Jng from 6 Century BC odudng
many goId tonkets lound n a grave
disoovered if 1972. No iess mpressvelSthe
3"- cenry te\"'ellery from Greek Odysseus.
ii s nterestng lo oompare these firds from
those n !he Museum of Nehae c40gf LLL Tbhs
from araund the same peood.
The Museum ol

Hstory

SKOPSKA STYLE

300

301

.. ---------...

BYALA

i'

Approactng from the north

promnent

L.,"," ~,. '"' '

aYAlA
the harbour not Vls,ble untl alter roundng Nos $v&\1A tanas
modem house on the shore ndcates the harbour

tYPK

8yata s a
set

arroogst Vlf

nhabttants

~fd5.

The v,lIage of 3000


m from the harbouf and

is

p...,

otfen; only OOSll

I". "" ~"'"


hotels alTer beds Lo

SnaI

wooden it
beach and two

, home,

toIidaymakers \

ltis

Iovely spot
holiday resorts
are buill in the

away from the


Several small re:
rees aboye the
8l(cellenllocal fooa
can be recommenC!

wtlch provide
Trn Iotal wne
tastng

besfrange<!

This peaceful bay s


I'Iills is a complete COf
Whe Rock a
!KO !S,bie piaces

The

observatons

and

B.
il ,

At pressnl the

patontologiss

are
IIlveslgahng llhefe LS t corecton between
the death of the dnosaurs and the Wlute
Rocks. A walk long the beach
dose to the White Rock coukl result n
lindng

fossl.

The shellered port is used by fishng boats lo


land ther caleheS of shellflsh for export lo
Japan and also as a stop for cruising
yacltsmen who anchor In the sandy bay
away from the flshlng boat traffle

can

Unlonunstely is at presenl an ,lIegal stop.


as a yact will have ctecked 01.1\ of Vama
bul not 'nto Bourgas it hkely that thS

i'

problem wdl be so/Ved n future years and


the mayor 0/ the vtllsge YIIfY keen to see
a smail marna bu,lt here.

i'

res

the meteole, whd fa

Its

races

scertsts

are iln ote<;


and dunn!;

specalsts

from

Ausn

these fOoCks as a source

space catadysm.
,(a .......

:.,~;;:::::::=

N
LO

"'

.lI _

..-

'.

'.

BYALA

302

N 42" 51.2 : E 2r 53.1"

303

NESEBAR

NESEBAR
The peninsla of Nesebar appears Ilke an sland from the dstanca. Closer the chllfches bul!
on ii are seen agether wth the twn h,ghnse buklmgs of a hotel to the west Rocky patches
extend same dlstarce olf Sandy beaches Ime the shore to the wesl
The breakwater is dfflClllt to see bt the Passenger termnal s conspcuous.

.... .......
.

'.

/+......;+<.....-..;...

~'"

'.

- '.

...

+++

the

i"atcu

..

;::,~~:~""':;::nerded ectenl
mar'na.
10m d the end
of ther

<.

w.~

+
+

"'---fo... - ....... ....... . .... " .

to a'OOO !he rock ~ the bay

, '

/"

....

'.

..... ...../'

,\'.

.. ....

'.

-.

...

'

...
'

.. ...'

. -lo - '

NE$EBAR

N 42 39.2 ' : E 27" 43.7 '

,,
i

II' .1

....

'-T.T . .....
A.T.N\..
t! ,1< ...

::

.....
01-

,"......'" ......

304

had ro navgaton sgnfcance for

Permit M present ths


Nesebar.

-"~

'.

s...,

-.ot-

, a......,...

_.

A........ ~icol
f...c /N.......

~;:.:..~
, FO""'" JI.O..........
1

New

."._e

305

NESE8AR

NESEBAR
Slued

in i comer of Ihe rocky penmsula 00


wllid Nesbar Is bull s the PassengElf
Temnal wllere foreign visltrg yadts Ie up.
In 200t unless a Cruising Perml Md aready
been obtaned from Bourgas yachts were no!
allowed to stap TIle tatf-day trip back and
fortt to Bourgas for a pemlt Is WOI'thwhle s
Nesebar is a Y9fY pleasan place Lo stay for
~I dys HopefUllylheNleswildaage
and tts r99Ullton wll be modified wrthm the

next few years.


Across the causeway bul enlered in the
same directon 8S the Passenger Termonal is
the Msrna of Nesebar. The depth of the
watllf is 8 m here. bul f 8 yadl can entef
they will be sure of 8 warm welcome MosI
yadts are (wl mooflfgs
bul 8 space
alongslde may be avalable,
The Passenger Termnal s very handy fof
e~porrg the 10Wf1 as steps lead from the
harbour ,no lhe mlddle of the se of the

RestauranlS abound togelher wlh many


\ourist type shops, Day to day requorements
are fourd in any of the resldenual q.arters
and there are ATM machlnes and Internet
Cafes dose to the Post Offoe A Turksh
dolhes bazaar Ihrives at Ihe carparll
ovewhehnng the fNII and vegeable stalls
thal were ptevlOUSty there Adjarent ls a row
of eatng houses, where the foad offered Is
on dsplay thal removes the difllcu!y of
languageand the menu.
Across the catlSeWay iS modem Nesebar
wilh many hotels, dscos and aLi the
trappmgs of <i holiday resort. Thefe tS iso i
larger supermark.el here.
To the norh and south of the pen,nsut are
iong sandy beaches and Sunny Beach. 9
fesort complex. lies 4 km north we$1 ol
Nesebar Buill on nat lemn along a wde
golden sand beach ii alfers alt faClhles of a
modem resort

arc;enl cturches

Nesebar was a thrMng port In Greek and


Roman ,mes and ws an obvlovs sopping
plee for ShipS slling belween
Constcntnople and the Dnube Rwer, In
recent years ii ws i lmous artiss coIony
bJI now li iS i llvely holldy resort.The 0080
benelit of ths s thl many ollhe old woodm
houses hve been restored to their former
glory and new buld'ngs must be bult in lhe
style of the old, Nesebar is now one of the
most publcsed of B ulgara's hohday
al\tlJetions and s <!edared by UNESCO an
archtectural and archaeologcal reserve

To the south of Nesebar there are several


bays for day archoring which are used by the
tocal tnp boas and alsa some which are
roped olf for pwae use of the hotels built
thee. The charts in this area are not very
acrurale so geal care must be laken of
unmarlled rocks and bo.lders tha lie same
disianca off sho(6.
For yads in the harboo an excettent place
to swim is from the sandy beach on the other
side of the wall thal proteds the gardens
around the harboor,

The Archaeologlcal Museum dspays


Irtfacts from Neseba(s ctasscal past plus a
coI!ecboo of toons imm the 16th and l1th
centunas Msny churches built between the
6th and l1th Century re sprea<! ttroughout
the Icwn and all have somethirg dfferen to

see,

frescoes decor.le some, whte


otters haye notable exerior decor.ton of
mut coIoured bric:ks and drcular plates.
same of the walls, 98les 8nd fortrasses are
be'ng restored.

306

Fna

307

POMORIE

POMORIE

The harbour of Pomone s easily k:lenlified by the large modem hotel bul n the 'tyle of a ship
!ha stands nexllo the breakwater The cmnes on the bfeakwaer are also easly se&n.

The harbour mastef, Pelef_

tower eXlsts.
cardnal

booys

roln poston.

,one chats

k is

rot

recommended to

s extremely
vsling yachls

lriendly and weleomes


indcatng lolhem where tomoor There iS an
atractve restaurant at the entranc:e lO the
town from the dock. old grey stone houses
gM! a sutdued LOCk lo the town bulone
stree back from the harbour reveals a busy
holiday reson of pavemen cafes and stops
aloog a lree lined pedestrian way.

There are ro banks or ATM bulhe pos office


a

he

east end of town has exchange


laolltLes. The Internet cafes are between the
pos office and Ihe harbour ogeher wlh
sevemi smail supermarkes Close by Is the
18 century Church of the Transfguraloo.
The market is some dstance from the
harbour and has onty a limited suppty ol !resti
frul vegetables

A iong sandy beach ruOl nortt of the town


but there s a sman beach behnd the harbour
wall convenien fOf swmmng

The gatdeos around the harbour have trees


dtaped in iace Iems. YAch are fOf sale by
the IDeaL !adles who st n the stade of the
!rees and croche

'Of

sea

Pomone iS famous
ls Black
GOId
wr-e. and the Wr>Elry is 3 km ou of Iown dose
o the Monaslery ol S George The wnes
and brandes produced are available in most
of the shop n the tawn centre To be
recommended s the red Meno and !he white
Muskat.
CIose lo Pomone are the saltpans of lake
Pomorie and the mud baths The lakesde
sanaloria are mporant n the iocal
~Y

J.

.,.,.

Ioc>.I ,'J<"'~
"'

o,

,
POMORIE

i
,, ........

308

~m...n; ...

PoT.T .
"",ri<"
&~ ...~1C,aI-

.-I

M ...........~W

'i

&10<,."
x",tu-t
FiU"" .-h.hor

<J

n..e.-.. ... _

k-oftl<.

.~

AT.M, .

309

BOURGAS

BOURGAS

From the dstance the modem bulld'ngs ol Bourga s are easly seen and the many shps
anchored aif are a good ndc"on of Ihe harbour enlrance. The controlower is vislble

Books say lo avod the port aM town What


rubbsl'! I'! The wale!" n the Gulfof8ourgas is
as d ean as the rest ol Bufgana and \he port
olfaa ts w ere vey lnendly and helpful The
a pproad to the lown iS allraclve wlh \he
modem high-nse buldngs gleamng above
the Iree--lined sho"e.

"

2.3m

=, ;;;;;-;,okj

DVeL t

marked by a saulh

Q6+l FI 15s .. ham


:;hart

Ths s

:;a.rdnalll

001 shaNn on

18 The Red and Green

be ignored by a

:;harvel

ya:ht.

ashore unbl larmahlies :;omplete.


mas ter will issue CrulSng Permt in

'o::~~~:,:c:::;:::
and $30 Passpor\s
li unles s v s~ng Icwn or

.".

80urgas is a large commen;.al port and


Inside a place lor yadts s lound besde the
tugs and this is in a posilion xrvemenl fet
vslng the clty Over the ext law years the
Sl2e of the port will be doubled and ts wR
iead to \he removal ol \he Ydt Club and it is
unknown whefe l willln furure be sltuated.
The aulhoities in 80urgas have adopted a
system whE!feby n exchange fet sl'ips
documenis and 30$ in 200 1 a yadl was
ssued wth a :;rusng penn,t alkwlng free
a::cess lo the c:oasl on the rondihon that lt
ovemighted n one ollhe desgraled pars on
the permit. The papers were re"rned when
lhe yadt de:;ked dul of Bourg.as and I"lad
pad the clea rance lee. Ths enabled Okura
lo visil th e many smail harboufl3 n the
beaulful cru sng area ol southem Bulsana

The harboor, staton and bus slatOn are all


grouped togelher and from hefe a car-lree
wde Iree Ined road leads through the cenlre
ol town. Modem shops and reslauranls Ine
the rodse and on readng the Iogh-rse
Boorgas Hotel aoother !oolway leads ciL past
the Archeologcl Museum and mary las
l ood cenlres to the bead and seasde
gardens.

on

sITee

habour

from the

!here iS
xrvelent ATM mactre and n the staton
boildirlg a smail supermrkel for everyday
supples There are severallnlemet :ales n
ihe ITall'le lTee zone

the

Boorgas wouid be a convenent piace for


Cfaw changes as the a rport is dose and
half hourty buses leave from the bus staton
nearby fOf the arport

.._
i
.
._,I
Z
_
' ... ,..., ,-1_........

'.

, ......
Mo'

.. _

p.. ___

. _.....
,

BOURGAS
310

ii....,. .......

'nI-o-r",,"",
...... "f _ ;';1; _ '- i;

...-u-

" ............ n dw .....


LI ...... _t"04

N 42 28.9' : E 21 29.0 '

311

BOURGASBAY

OTMANU

There are saveral anchorages and hartours in the Bay of Bourgas to eJlplore and Turkish
chari 1821 'S recommeOOed Thscovers the efVising area Nesabar to Sozopol Plans aOO
nates aboul these S\OPS are deta'led bekw.

The fishing viIIage of Otmanllls

The wnd always biows InlO or out of Bourgas Bay but once 5 nM east of Bourgas changes Lo
the true wnd

surpisingly
attractive considering Its pastion in

qu,et and
the Bay of Bourgas
Somehow
lI'Iduslnaizat,o has missed th is area and the
hartour between two smail breakwaters has
many sman fish,ng boats The river fVnnlng
Ifllo the harbour provodes a fVral background

Anchonrg n the shalkw water 1$ pasSlble for


yachts of slallcw draft and !here 'S adequate

shelter provided by the law breakwters


Several modem houses have
along the smail sandy beach.

"

ten

....
.

.,.
..

budt

'" ,.....

...- .'

.'

ot", n1j

i.

-_.-

N 42 26.3 : E 27 31.6

OTMANLI

lUKOll MARINA
os Neftochim

Prevl ously known

SVETI ANASTASIYA
Ths

Lukoll has now developed the smail bayand


Yachl Club a Neftochm nlo an exceU"tnl
The
marina fOf lls Company yachIS
pontoons have water and electncty and
\hefe mav be space for a .... SLtng yatht. The
feSKIenl manager wL" advse on amvat.

The sland is famous !of the whte rabbts that


Ihnve !here. Ashore are a smail
a simple restaurant

An open meawori< Jetty Is where a yadl tes


on amva! bul ttls is not sutable n wesler1y

if a

and

was previously forbdden on thIS


island as it was used by !he oavy beng n a
strategic poml on the approact Lo so.."gas
and !he ail refineries around the head of !he
bay Now yachts can slop and vist !he ,sand
and ii is very popu1ar al weelends wth
yachtsmen from Bourgas and around

be1h

~'"

A smaO beach and dean water add lo Ihe


attractoos of the bay
Surprlsingly the 011
refirey on the other sde of !he headland
does not dslub tte peaceful surroundings.

ctUfCh

Landng

is avalable nSIde there 1$


good shelter
Ahematlvely !here s an
anctorage n the bay on the outSIde of ths
wndS

sland

surrounded by rocks and


shalo..... patctes in the 6ay ol Bo.rgas has a
smail elty where yachts can anctor stem to
InSIde tte Jelty iS reserved for tnp boats thal
come from !he nearby hoIday reSOf'ls

smaIl

The anchomge offers only modefate shelter

fromteswell

N 42$ 27.45 ': E 2r 32.2 '

: +:

,.

,'+ '."

....

' +;

and wind.

The sland was also a pnson al one

LUKO lL

".

tme

end

"

the pnsoners escaped by swlmming astore

SVETI ANASTASIYA
N 42 27.85': E 27 33.15'

314

315

CHERHOMORUS

SOZOPOl

A vIIage surrounds ths bay wth [WQ smail quays, depths unkrown. used by smail fishng
boalS. Wtt northe1YWlnds the swell sets in.

The large sland off Sozopol hKles Ihe harbour bYI doser lhe vefY iorg breakwaer wtl be
Seet1. The harbour is enlered from the wes The large bl,Jklng of the naval college r. very
conspcuous The narrow pennsula on whlch the \own " bl,Jll makes the approach to the
harbourdfficull lo determne.

The bay Iowever iS an anratve ardorage n setled weatherwth pleasanl surroundngs and
dean waterlor swimmng.

As a resull ol the s_II when vlslhng Okura dk! nol approach nsde the 5 metre line

Foryachs the problem s where to moor Enlenng the large harbour the naval area is on the
!efi sde and fartdden to yachts. The rlghl sde of the man harbour is full of smatl rshng boats
and the depth by the quaysde is mosty only about 1 metre attough further out there is 3 of 4
metres. A cruse lner !halis moored for Ihe summer to provIde extra beds takas up the

ramaimler ofths area.

,.
.-1

To the nghl on enlefng under a chmney thefe


ya;:hts bul attacted lo a disco

+ +

a smaO marina wi!t space for two of three

it is also possb!e to ile aIongside at eny of the quays used by the large fshng boats bul the
POStOn musl be vacated immedately on ther return . I appeared that thesa vessels wen out
eartyinthemomrg and retumedabouI17.00 .

S
O

,"wn

...,

,
~

N 42 27.0 : E 27 38.7

CHERNMORETS

.316

-.

'"

SOZOPOl

SOZOPOl

S~uated on the south srde ol the bay of

Bourgas, Sozopol s a Naval town and since


the beginn:ng ol the century a lavoone
resort lor Bulganan art:sts and wnters In
recenl years il has succumbed to pckge
halKlays but theyare mosUy centred :n the
new part ol the lown where hotes are br.rll
above a beaulIful saody beadl.
once moored !here is plenly to see and the
many ok wooden houses if! the old town
make sroing through !he streets very
pleasant
cose

to !he marina is a very good mar1let

ThE: old IOWn starts from a fountan where


three roads diYerge and each leads to the lar
end ol the p8f1:nsula where an Ar Gallery 5S
8:IUStad in an old school. Al the Iountam
area :8 an A.TM and nearfy next door an
Internet cahil and well along the nghthand
street towards the Ar Ga!lery is a !aundry
that doas wastung by the kilo,
Several

durttes

and chapels are scattered


througtout the old town amongst !he eiegant
tearooms and restaurants Many of the old
houses on the dtlf sde have been convered
to restaurants and have delrgtrtful erraces
budt out over the sea

sellog frut and vegetabes and al knds

of
aieohoi. ii appeared to be the cash and can)'
depot for the vallOOs hotels

,
,

A. Iree-hned road ormects \he old town on


the penrsula wth the new tawn which Is
Ined wth toonst kosks and alongsJde is the
publK: par1l that opens out onto the beach

The new

own

ai the

otter end

of the
causeway ts Illi 01 modem holels Fast lood
takeaways and several stalls selling fresh
fruit serve the hoIrdaymakers ard uere are
many tour agencres offerng trps to other
areas of Bulgarla

: f";'" booh;
... 11.... t,

................

--

SOZOPOL

.-.....""1

" r.. ... "d., .... d

N 42 25.25' : E 27 41 .0'

ot

: 3""'" 1".,. ....

ii Awt,..n-S

e,
of ...-h

" o..-ts.en

i .....
Lo ci..
O' '1;
" a. . "ftlS~ .... 1 di.
4

e..of ~ Zo';"

o ................w-.
~ &.to ~
~ 4.....~

tl> ii" '

318

,,,.,....,,.

3 19

RAPOlAMA
There is a wonderlu aodlorage a the mouth of the nver Ropotamo iiI the soulh end of a ioog
sand'l bay. The anchorage is dffcult LO spo blJt a monurnen 00 ih headland iS easl'l setln.
At the north &nd of the ba'l!here iS large whte half blJlt hoteL. Shelter is beller than it a flrs
appears

Roc;.s e.de d 'il i U

The entrance is trlcky due o rocks and the


underwaer tranrg wall for the river Do not
anernpl o go alongside the smail jetty it is
veryshallaw.
The river moulh Is very shallaw (aboot
5Ocms) bu once over th e bar a dngh'l can
ravel several mlles upstream to a lake of
gan\ water Iilits
Further up the nver the banks hned wth
oaks. beech and wlIows are \hEL hauflt of
dear end othef 'Nild raunc. The nver aracs
man'l flshermen for the abundance of whte
fish found here.

U, ... wl <i-ecton ffom puo .... 'i

The area iS now anatura resarve and yahts


ma'l be asked o leave a5 the Reseve
Warden 1$ Imitng the number of smail Cfafl
gorg up the flyer. AI present foreign 'lachIs
tanno overnighl here bu ilis a Iovel'l spot o
spend he da'l
A 1009 sand'l beach les on the other sde of
the nverbilnk..
Ths beach iS so far
untouched b'l hoels bu at !he far end there
iS iln ocomplete buildlng wlth breakwaer
and small harbour, wnich is silted up.

RIVER MQUTH FROM AN CHORAGE

_.
t

,ce ..

To the south of the anchorage is Cape


Maslen tha ns man'l hoIlowed out caves
which are said to be the home of seals

,
\
,

ROPOTAM O

320

N 42 20.0' : E 27 45.15'

321

ANGElICA

PRIMORSKO

Ths s

II iS extremely smail inside Ihe breakwaer


wth only room for wo yachs to ile alongslde
aOO as yachts offering hourly trips use this
\here s no space for a viSI\Jng yacht.

an anchorage m a rocky gul where


Ihere iS room for one yaehllo sop on anchof
or more iI bed Lo the shore
The WfId
surroundmgs are a grea change for the
Black Sea and the dear w,ter offers good
sno1.ellng.
The hllls a/'Ol,lnd the bayare
desened bul ree and scnb covered rocks

A crulSlng yacht ean OOwever anchor and tie


lo the ood of the etty bul there 's no wlter
fromtheseaorWlnd,

~-the

excepln

settled condtions
The yachsman here were most welcomng
aOO Ihe surrourdlng Ireellned shore l::oIIed
altrac,ve o e~pIore

give hometomanybrds,
A delightful lunch stop bul

Certarly ro Ihe plaoo fOf a peacelul nghl

holdng iS

suspea due o !he stony bottom.

-- -

The purpo$e of the yellow buoy iying off \he


Quay is uoknown

i
o
,

_
,

ANGELlCA

N 4r 19,35': E 27" 47,0 '


PRIMORSKO
Th,s atlra.c\Jve Spo surrounded by rocky patches 's one ol lhe designaed ovemlght hartours
in the Cn,ising Permll of 200 1 Irom Bourgas,
The hotels behlOO Indicae the harbour enlranoo There 'S an envimnmental prolectoon
breakwaer ciose o !he headland which is no part of the harbour

short d15tance south-wes\ o(

42" 1575" E 27"45 5'

sde

of bay Easlof bre.akwaer

irregular Suggesl mal

is

pproach

3OO"T

setted

wlth 11()1 l oer1y


with soulherty wnds.

good

Danger.s

weaher

-, - -

...... ..

'.

'

ths

is a designated overnighl slop. Border


and HartxJrmasler m av ask for papers

PRIMORSKO

322

N 42" 15,75': E 27 45,5'

323

KlTEN

KlTEN
Hotels are bult around !he h~I&<Ie and large yadl dub and sman harbour lies behnd !he
bfeakwater of Kten on inal appoach the hato.r se ems crow:ied dua lo !he proumly of
!he bathlng beach butonce inSIde Ihere LS enough room.

n poston

in calm weather rt

N 42" 13.53 E 2-,0


canrot

be sean, wth
wnds and swellll bfeaks but not heav\ly
poskon was gNen by a Iocal diver.
s bes I made from at least one m!e

'::~~
heading for the
end of Ihe
:w
. Gyv.e ceasts of
i
norh of Ktn. Nos limoos. an offing of
300m . rregular and rock)' bottom. On
Char 18 !he I.Sm sMIIow pach shown
te '<i" of Nos lkdovsa 00 2 S not exisl.
be sem.-to good

Many smail fiShing boals are moored lo !he


breakwaer bul in fronl of the yadl club is a
quay wlth moonrlgs for yachls The Yacht
Club Manager will indicae where lo moof.
The clubhouse has full restaurant facihlies

The bayands wth il smail bead for water


spons and ne<! to !his s a vef)' large
crowded beach serving !he hoel$ buih
above the harbouf. The Yach Ctub had as
iS common , been n former Ilmes. a salng
cenre but is currenlly neadng lo be

renovaled
The conspicuous fuel pumps
have not been n use forseveral yars
Unlorunaely ai presen i Ktn is not
approved as an ovemighl slop bul offers
greal passibilt)' for the future. A very warm
walcorne was received and the local
yadtsmen were ITlO$I narested n a loreign

,,''"hd

yaclt

KITEN

324

, .,.

-N 42 14.0 : E 27 46.85

'"

TZAREVO

TZAREVO shown on Chart as MIUR1N


The Tzars ferdinand and
Tzar&YO after tem.

Bors

bathe<! here

19c Century and the

n te

vIIage

The oullymg rocks marted by the oorspIcuous beacoo and a red roofed
headland are the iifst indcaton of the entrance to itliS excetlen! harbour.

was called

auret

on the

manmd by m beacon. These are not


chart.

___________
J~;';~
l

vcryof

producng GAP Pfoducts

a factory
GRP calamarans_

is

,...........,

--

: 'b '

o.'''''

. . . . o ..

.~-~~
,,;,,-,-""1
.--!,\

i.,... _

off'''-

_.

ot

1'

""-:."-

..

~--

N 42 10,15': E 27" 51 ,S '

326

327

TZAREVO
The excelten harbo<r. b<, as a salng
school In lormer bmes. s 00 ..... a fnendly
yachbrg manna ..... here Vlstrg yachtsmen
ara most ..... elcome. Water and eleclrcty are
avalable on the quaysde.
The yachts
based here are on moorngs bot Ils possible
to anchor and e bacl. to the q<ay with ii iong
seope to allOld the moorrgs. TM water is
dean enough for swmmirg in the harto<r
and a smail operwir cafe at the end of the
harbour pmvides good foo<! and Iocal beer
The harboor master wln give ny tetp
needed and t Is intended that the facilities
wiR be ..... proved The breakwater whoct
was extended in 1995. gves good shelte
The harbour is very peacef<l at nght and is
setamongst anraa!ve countyside

AKTOPOl
The harboor is a designaled ovemlQht stop
and Is a 900d centre for vlSbng the
SUITo<ndng anchorages_
Steps lead <p from the harboor to the smail
tawn where many shops are spread between
the well kept squares and gardens. The
compact town has a modem change offICe
and nternet eaMbut ooATM.

Approadng

the breakwater wth!tS yellaw and black beacon s easly seeo together wth a
radar tower on the southem headland of the bay.
Surpns,gly Ihs hartour was Included In the list of ovemIQht archorages n the Bourgas

CllJisng permt.

wallles WlIt a
vaoety of fi8rgs and a !resh frut and
vegetatle market otrers Iocal prodtee. This
iS stualed in the gardens behind the large
blue domed durct.

The food speaalty here

is

for a yacht is to anehor and be


to the he8d of the ,e\ty. This is a/ready
wth smal /isting boats on moonrgs.
to anehor but bad holdng. stones and

on the headland opposte the harboor is


the red roofed 14" century durd, whid iS
sbW in use. Betnd!his headlaod are
several bays that are used by Iocal yachts
for day andorages.

i .... "_. ~

~ o~ l

LO

Frvit' l

~ ..tc.

!.k ...

{cCo.'" - ... . ,.,1

......

:~CL_r
"'"'

" ~ ............,..
't ".,;,w ......

ri.

.~

"'k

i<> oe...~

. :~---

., -.0.1 "tLUIICA

$ '

'

..

__

.....

..ili""..,
AKTOPOl

328

N 42 06.1' : E 27 57,1 '

329

AKTOPOl
TOO metal etty offefS no comiort LO Ite
crusrg yadlsman 8S the water alongsde LS

very shallow. The rocI.y and uneven boltom


wt greatly vilrymg deptts makes anchonng
il tonery, The Bulganar yactsmen wamed
us of this harbour, however li LS most
attractive to see bul would not lead to il
oomfortable night un~s one ol the moorings
in !ho bay wos vacarl.
1115 evden! thal improvemenlS have laken
pl:c:e III recent years by building il smail
tmakwater amongS! the rocks bul this only
ptovdes exoel!enl $nori.elng for the land
bound tounsts In lulure anott'te' Jan), mav
be bu~t of the landsde quayed to proyed c
sutable piace o ile to Akopol would ten

be

an atceleot ptace for entenrg of l&avng

Bulg8ra durng 8 cruse of


regulatons change.

330

the Black Sea il

The surrourdings are scene wlh Ihe tlue


water and Ihe olf Iyng slets and li appeared
tha~ Iher!! are several bay$ n the area wth
sandy beaches for il lunchtme stop. Lotal
yachts use these bays and W1th care they can
salely be entered.

TURKEY
Sedion 5
Bulgaria to the Bosphorus

331

TURKEY SECTION 5
PA5SAGENOTE$

Turkey Section S Bulgoria Border to Bosphorus

BUlGARIAN BORDERT0 80SPHORUS

South of Bulgaria around Koru Burnu. Gp


F I(2 5s, is the Port of Entry of l{neada wetl
sheltere<! from the prevailing northeast and
northwestwinds.
From here lo the Bosphorus !he 60nM
coastline is Iow-lying. ifee covl!feCl and
fn:ned

by golden sand beaches bul very

fewhatses.

However In Iate spring

ard

early summer

southerly or souhwesterly Wirds preva,] and


!hese po1S are then very attractive as they
are not far from IQneada or the Bosphons if
the Wird should change

At Dalyen Burnu. SnM Irom IM Bosptorus


the coast beeo1les hgher W1th dlfs on
whc;t Tu1l,Ienen.

As !he ooastlk.. between K,y'kay and


Karaburon has changed as a resul! ol bI'Own
coal open east minng yachts need to
rema further from !he shofe than the chaftS
sogges necessary.
fishng

shelter s requred

wth

There are two smail

and Karabunn but


these need dredgng to be usetu o a deep
keel yadt. There are also Ihree bays
s\able for a lund'time stop .

harbours

Gp FI (2) 12s, s stuated


a the northwes poInl of the Bosptorus
Where the ' Clashog Rocks' ol mythology
are sad to be_ The large fishng harbour of
Rumebfeoen s not we" ....mlllg to yadts thal
should cro5S the Bosphofous ta Poyrazlwy if

pleasan owns. Kyk6y

The Black Sea summer preva iling nortterty


wnds produce a swell thal marches stralghl
onla this shore making Ihese harbours and
ardlorages impractical excep very early In
the mamng belore the wind tommences.

TlJi:KEY

j:ili"9"J Ko1u J.

Sord"'l

.a.
e._ ~ .a.

O'il"' ......... """' ..

..

L
332

333

IGNEADA

IGNEAOA
One Koru Bl,lmu 'S roundod lrom ille nortl the brakwa\ers olthe hartxur are easily seen
under alarge sear on the hllside From the south the harbour s at the north end ol the large
5<lndy \)ay some dstanca way from the cwn ofthllQneada .
Sevilfal grouplS ol holiday developmenIS are conspicuous on the hlls above the harbour
The harbour is weLL &hftered arcl used by many fishng boats of all SlZes arcls a base for
Sahd Guvenhk.
The Harbourmaster 18 most frerdiy and wek:omes yachlS.

atout

lnM from hpd of mar bfeakwaler


is marked by a YeBOW buoy with X opmark
!\astng igtt posl\ioned ~nM soolhwest 0/
ertrarce

or towards

BoItom sand and mlXl

mM"

wth thck

bfeakwater

grass.

)
In \he halbour there are several restaurans.
a lea house and a snai minmarket

tt is a dreary walk atong the road by the 5km.


5<lndy beaeh eading from the hattour o the
vIIage. it seems \he habt lar a car to step
and gve a hft to anyone walk'ng on this road,
Several smail hote/s and camping areas are
passed before the centre where all the
shops are grouped
~ral bakers seli
bfead made ,n wood bumng avans and
minlmarkelS supply

334

basic needs. IQneada is a popular beach

resort in summer and many stalis sellher


wares

alorg!he

roadside.

There s no ATM or Ineme cafe bul tere iS


a PTI on the roadoutoltown.
Everyooe in the viIIage is fnendly and
derghted to

.1. ....

see foregn ourists

Above the harbour are several lisl


restaurants where a meal can be enjoyed
wlh vews over the bayand at nlght ol the
sethrg sun.

I~NEADA

- .., .

N 4 1 53.3' : E 28 01,2'

335

SANDAL BURNU KOYU

KY KY

This little bay is ucked behind Ihe headland


makng li an excellen lunch sop in senle<!
weather with wesl ar soulhwesl breezes

NAVlGATION

oangers n appraach

From the

rorth gve

KaYIa Burnu a reasonable

's .1:"""
N

,-

bar o( breakwater

~ 3. ..." ..""';;'j- '.

quay

N 41 38.0' . E 28"06.2'

L.Wkely La fnd space aIongsde

'if\

3/

offing There are roc::ks aff batt breakwaer


hnn and a O.Sm. patch in the mddle ot the
nartour. MV hazard wouid be a hea-.y onshore

GPS

--

, -\

.C.
1

\-

co;,:.. ,,\

:. i

Dnty

l18CesSary to lake iang iines ashort:! n moonng


posrlOrl

shown.
SANDAL BURNU KOYU

N 41 44.15': E 2lr 02.3S"


A very atraetve hartKxr wth room ta anchar
or Ie stem-to the .. es breakwater There 's
a quay at the sovth breakwater, bui tte waler
here iS shallowwth rocky patches otf. Fuels
avata~e at ths quay.

KASATURA KOYU (KASTRO)


Th,s sandy bay wth a smail Islet at Ihe
entranee is a popular pcne area but alse
provdes a seenic anchorage An atractive
river fkws into the bay which can be
explored by dinghy or loeal boats which are
available lor hire

The lown reache<! by steps has an old castte


whose walls are ncorporaetl r the town
eenlre where provsoos of aLi k,rxls can be
purchased
Above the hartKxr etose o the I'ghlhouse iS
a fish restauran popular w,tt day visitors
from Istanbul

golden sand beach 'S unsale for


swmming as Ihere 's a dangeous
underow
In fa there 'S a rotce 00 lhE
be3ch .. ,th the number of peopIe drowoed.
Takecare,

The

Ashare ,n the

area iS a restaurant
servng smpte T ur10st meals.
pc.rc

KASATURA KOY U

N 41 35 4 ': E 21r OS.6


N

i
,

lllNGOZ KOYU
A lew hatiday homes line tts aractve bay
aM the golden beach and dear water make
itan enjayab~ SloplJing place

f,
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'

"

IUNGOZ KOYU
KY KOY

336

N 41 3S.0 : E 2S 06.2'

N 41" 31 .4 ': E 2S" 13.S


337

CREW l iST

KARABURUN
The approach to KarabuNn Is mis~adng as there are three SINctures sean on the
breakwaters From the north a yacht passes \wc breakwaters before the entranee s sean

Flag

Vacht Name

FoIloWlng a line wtllCh keeps the mlnarelS of \wc mosques in line aVQlds the rocks a\ \he
outer treakwater Uflbl the 20n wide ertraflC8 iS otvioos between a sand bank aOO \he
outer breakwaer wtch at ths pon has three corcrele biocks jU5\ below water

Family Name

Giv_n Name

Dat. ol 8irth

Nlonlity

Pnport

Number
~

NAVlGATION
Oargers

Min hazard would be a heavy onshore swel.

ifl approach

GP~1bon of breakwater

N 41 G 2O.S" E 28"41.3
Ur:. harboor is dredged it is unusatle to a deep
keei yachL Even when dredged the O.Sm rock
wil remal1. See chartlet Tlere are TWO outer
breakwalers

SHELTER

Settled weather ~

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Slgned

Captain

1
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KARABURUN

,
338

339

CRUISE THE BLACK S[A INDEX

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