Esquire S Big Black Book Spring Summer 2014

$9.
95
SPRING/
SUMMER
2014
The art of
dressing way
the hell up
The no-sweat
guide to suits
Nine great
reasons to
wear a tie
The
Big
Black
Book
Cocktails, anyone?
The STYLE MANUAL for SUCCESSFUL MEN
Need a watch?
Good options at
every price.
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A N DR E W L AU R E N
FILMMAKER
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F O R P R I VAT E A P P O I N T M E N T S A N D M A D E T O M E A S U R E I N Q U I R I E S : 8 8 8 . 47 5 .7674
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R A LPH L AU R EN . COM
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Jacket in patterned
cotton poplin
Straight trousers
in patterned cotton
and linen gabardine
Dip tie in silk twill
Etrivire briefcase
in Sombrero calfskin
1-800-441-4488
Hermes.com
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Metamorphosis, an Herms story
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800-457-TODS
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Big Black Book
The
T H E P O RT F O L I O S . O R : T H R E E D I R E C T I O N S WO RT H H E A D I N G T H I S S P R I N G A N D S U M M E R
West
east
south
Its got mountains for miles and horizons

for days. All you need is rugged, relaxed,
purpose-driven clothing to make use of it.
Make that the Far East, where men long

ago learned how to beat the infernal heat
with the right kind of summer suit.
Anyone up for an open-sea sail in the

seasons best sportswear? Us too.
91
113
129
T H E I N F O R M AT I O N
A concise
how-to guide
for life in
3
sections
Summer
Shopping
Maintenance
Your ultimate guide to surviving (and

thriving) in the most summery of all
seasons, including the BBB Swimsuit
Selector, a survey of lightweight tailoring,
a menu of moisturizers, and the art of
grilling, road trips, and staring at women.
(Almost) everything worth knowing about

the most noble of sartorial pursuits,
including when to buy, where to buy,
what to buy (and where and when to buy
it), and how to spot a fake.
How to keep your most valuable

of valuables in finest form, featuring
a closet upgrade, summerproofing
your sweaters, and spring cleaning
for the soul.
125
145
105
ESQU I R ES BIG BL ACK BOOK
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Big Black Book
The
THE FRONT
68
40
28
76
56
84
50
E S SAY
the
essentals
The whys behind six of the
seasons wisest investments.
28
E S SAY
one drnk,
two cars,
three nghts
the stuff
of summer
the art of
overdressng
Because you care, and because
you can, and because there is
never any shame in being the
best dressed in the room.
The secrets behind cotton,

linen, and the lightest of warmweather leathers.
44
the dark sde of

amercana
Nine men of style from around

the world on the cocktails, cars,
and destinations they love.
From On the Road to the

Ramones: How misfits, oddballs,
and outcasts became part of allAmerican style.
50
68
40
E S SAY
luxury (watches)
at any prce
The metals, movements, and
complications you want to own at the
price you want to pay.
the one-day apprentce
a change of underwear
Threading the needle (literally and

otherwise) with the craftsmen of
Cesare Attolini.
one fne day n

new york
One mans intrepid journey through

the new world of boxers, briefs, and
everything in between.
The 41 men (and women) who stir up the

global melting pot that is N. Y. C.
82
84
76
70
ALSO
16
The Editors Letter
The Resources: New York City
20
150
On the cover: Photograph by Phil Poynter. From left: Twobutton cotton-and-linen suit by Salvatore Ferragamo. Cotton
shirt by Ovadia & Sons. Silk knit tie by Burberry London.
// Two-button linen-and-cotton jacket and cotton shirt by
Massimo Alba. Silk tie by John Varvatos. Cotton trousers by
L.B.M. 1911. // Three-button silk-and-linen suit and silk knit tie
by Ermenegildo Zegna. Cotton shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna
Couture. Silk pocket square by Tommy Hilfiger.
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SPRING 2014
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THE EDITORS LETTER
I had a lot of choices, and that was not necessarily a good thing at 5:30 ayem as I was dressing in
the dark.
So I threw them all away. And I went to Richards in Connecticut and I bought 20 pairs of VK
Nagrani dress socks, ve in each of four basic colors. I put them in a box (with dividers) on a shelf
in my closet. Black, then blue, then brown, then
gray. And Im done with socks. I never have to think
about them again. It simplies my morning, saves
me time and brainpower.
I tell you this little anecdote because Im not generally a fan of choice. For decades now, weve been
sold choice as a positivelike, the more choices
you have in insurance coverage or retirement-savings plans or deodorant or Dorito avors the bet-
20
ter the world is. Its exhausting. I just want what I

want. Im a simple man.
Tragically, no one has ever acted on my complaint. Choices multiply. In mens style, the last
decade has been characterized by a massive
expansion of choices. Textures, patterns, colors of every item of clothing exploded. We ran a
feature last year in Esquire that is a perfect
example: It was a visual guide to the best
sport coats of the fall. We showed 33 jackets
and that was an edited selection of what was in
the market.
This issue of Big Black Book is intended to address the choice problem in a world where our
options are endless. Because whats available is
staggering in its variety, we have to narrow down
and organize the offerings. So we organized the
world of watches by price (page 70). We created
style portfolios that represent the individual mindsets of three distinct geographic regions (pages
91, 113, 129). We asked men we admire for the one
drink, the two cars, and the three-day vacation
that speaks to them (page 50). And, maybe most
important, we offer a strategy for shopping, which

can be a monolithic, tedious, paint-by-numbers
exercise unless it is embarked on craftily. Men
have more options than ever (and, to my mind,
too many options) when it comes to developing
and evolving their personal style, and the Big
Black Book is about helping to guide our readers through those choices.
But, hey, spring is here. Life begins anew. We
can shed complexity for the next few months.
David Granger
E D ITO R I N CHI E F
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SPRING 2014
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The Big Black Book
David Granger
E
AS
PLE
ZINE
E IN
SE
Leo Jung $ 6 6 2 & , $ 7 ( $ 5 7 ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 Benjamin Caruba

D I G I T A L I M A G I N G S P E C I A L I S T Steve Fusco
ING
REMOV
ART
ART DIRECTOR
L E T HI
SM
CYC
RE
A
AG
Nick Sullivan D E P U T Y E D I T O R Richard Dorment

E D I T O R I A L D I R E C T O R Helene F. Rubinstein D E S I G N D I R E C T O R David Curcurito
M A N A G I N G E D I T O R John Kenney D I R E C T O R O F P H O T O G R A P H Y Michael Norseng
S E N I O R E D I T O R Peter Martin C O N T R I B U T I N G E D I T O R S Doug Cantor, Sarah Z. Wexler
EDITOR
RE
CY
CL
EDITOR IN CHIEF
RT
S
OR
SAMPLES BEFO
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PHOTOGR APHY
PHOTO EDITOR
Alison Unterreiner 3 + 2 7 2 & 2 2 5 ' , 1 $ 7 2 5 Deb Wenof 3 + 2 7 2 5 ( 6 ( $ 5 & + ( 5 Myles Ashby

FA S H I O N
Wendell Brown 6 ( 1 , 2 5 $ 6 6 2 & , $ 7 ( 0 $ 5 . ( 7 ( ' , 7 2 5 Nic Screws

0 $ 5 . ( 7 ( ' , 7 2 5 Benjamin Liong Setiawan $ 6 6 2 & , $ 7 ( ) $ 6 + , 2 1 ( ' , 7 2 5 Michael Stefanov
FA S H I O N D I R EC TO R
COPY AND RESEARCH
Robert Scheffler
Camille Perri $ 6 6 , 6 7 $ 1 7 5 ( 6 ( $ 5 & + ( ' , 7 2 5 Chris Giblin
RESEARCH EDITOR
COPY EDITOR
E S Q U I R E I N T E R N AT I O N A L E D I T I O N S
Li Xiang China =iXeZ`jZfA%<jZfYXiJ%ColombiaAìÌfk_Czech Republic BfjkXjE%Kj`kjXjGreeceBnfe^Cle^B`kHong Kong

Dwi Sutarjantono Indonesia8e[i\pQ_XibfmKazakhstanDè?\\j`bKoreaDXel\cDXike\qKfii\jLatin America JXd:fc\dXeMalaysia
Jeremy Lawrence Middle East 8iefBXek\cY\i^Netherlands<inèIfdlcfPhilippinesIX[l:fdXeRomania;d`kip>fclYfmjbpRussia
Sam Coleman SingaporeD`cXeE`bfc`ZSerbia8e[ijIf[i`^l\qSpainJk\m\:_\eTaiwanGXel9liljiXkXeXgXekThailandKf^XeEfpXeTurkey
8c\o\pKXiXjfmUkraine8c\o9`cd\jUnited Kingdom E^lp\eK_Xe_E_XeVietnam
EDITORS IN CHIEF
S E N I O R V I C E - P R E S I D E N T/ E D I TO R I A L D I R E C TO R , H E A R S T I N T E R N AT I O N A L E D I T I O N S
SVP / PUBLISHING DIRECTOR & CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER
Kim St. Clair Bodden
AXZb<jj`^
Marcia Kline $ 6 6 2 & , $ 7 ( 3 8 % / , 6 + ( 5 * 5 2 8 3 0 $ 5 . ( 7 , 1 * ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 Jill Meenaghan

F I N A N C E D I R E C T O R Don Perri ( ; ( & 8 7 , 9 ( ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 ' , * , 7 $ / $ ' 9 ( 5 7 , 6 , 1 * + ( $ 5 6 7 0 ( 1 6 * 5 2 8 3 Bill McGarry
% , * % / $ & . % 2 2 . $ ' 9 ( 5 7 , 6 , 1 * 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 Louis F. Coletti ' ( 7 5 2 , 7 ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 Don Rokowski
S P I R I T S , N E W E N G L A N D & F L O R I D A D I R E C T O R ?`ccXip;\gg\c\i
( ; ( & 8 7 , 9 ( ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 2 ) / 8 ; 8 5 < * 2 2 ' 6 Caryn Kesler 0 , ' : ( 6 7 ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 Justin Harris
S O U T H W E S T D I R E C T O R Kf[[8%J`dfej
A C C O U N T M A N A G E R Dan Maxwell $ & & 2 8 1 7 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 John Wattiker
A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R /A D V E RT I S I N G
GROUP
Pacific Northwest Andrea Wiener/Athena Media Partners 415-828-0908

Southeast (except Florida)DXe[\cD\[`X>iflg+'+$),-$*/''
Texas and Arkansas9XiYXiX:i`kk\e[\e&K_\@e^\ijfcc:fdgXep)(+$,)-$*/''
Italy;Xm`[\;XIfc['(( *0$')$-)$-0$++$+(
FranceDXi`\8idXe[\[\JgXii\'(( **$($+)$/+$**$/'
United KingdomKXcXDX_[`\_'(( ++$)'$.+*0$,,+)
SpainDfe`ZX[\cfjI`fj'(( *+$0($.)/$0)$,'
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I N T E G R AT I O N A S S O C I AT E S
0$5.(7,1*6(59,&(6
Kate Carrington ( ; ( & 8 7 , 9 ( ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 * 5 2 8 3 6 7 5 $ 7 ( * < $ 1 ' ' ( 9 ( / 2 3 0 ( 1 7 Dawn Sheggeby
( ; ( & 8 7 , 9 ( ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 6 7 5 $ 7 ( * , & 3 $ 5 7 1 ( 5 6 + , 3 6 $ 1 ' ( 9 ( 1 7 6 Scott Lehmann ' ( 6 , * 1 ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 <jk_\iC%B`d
' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 , 1 7 ( * 5 $ 7 ( ' 0 $ 5 . ( 7 , 1 * N`cc`XdLgkfe 6 ( 1 , 2 5 , 1 7 ( * 5 $ 7 ( ' 0 $ 5 . ( 7 , 1 * 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 Colin H. Stayton
, 1 7 ( * 5 $ 7 ( ' 0 $ 5 . ( 7 , 1 * 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 Natasha Zarinsky 5 ( 6 ( $ 5 & + 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 Peter Davis
& 2 1 6 8 0 ( 5 0 $ 5 . ( 7 , 1 * ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 William Carter
( ; ( & 8 7 , 9 ( ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 6 7 5 $7 ( * , & 0 $ 5 . ( 7 , 1 *
A D M I N I S T R AT I O N A N D P R O D U C T I O N
Rosi D. Gana $ ' 9 ( 5 7 , 6 , 1 * 6 ( 5 9 , & ( 6 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 K\iip>`\ccX

Callie Barrett * 5 2 8 3 3 5 2 ' 8 & 7 , 2 1 ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 Karen Otto
Connie Black $ 6 6 2 & , $ 7 ( 3 5 2 ' 8 & 7 , 2 1 0 $ 1 $ * ( 5 Deidra Robinson
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( ; ( & 8 7 , 9 ($ 6 6 , 6 7$ 1 77 27 + (3 8 % / , 6 + ( 5

GROUP PRODUCTION MANAGER
P U B L I S H E D BY H E A R S T C O M M U N I C AT I O N S , I N C .
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35(6 , '(17 & + , ()( ;(&87,9(2 )),& (5
CHAIRMAN
HEARST MAGAZINES DIVISION
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P U B L I S H I N G C O N S U L T A N T Gilbert C. Maurer 3 8 % / , 6 + , 1 * & 2 1 6 8 / 7 $ 1 7 Mark F. Miller
PRESIDENT
Published at 300 West Fifty-seventh Street, New York, NY 10019-3797. Editorial offices: (212) 649-4020. Advertising offices: (212) 649-4050
Fax: (212) 649-4303 www.esquire.com.
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) + < J H L @ I < J 9 @ > 9 C 8: B 9 F F B
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Discover the Secrets

You Need to Succeed!
Over 1,037
essential skills
every man
needs to
know...
Get Esquires The Biggest Black

Book EverFREE for 21 days.
This essential edition is your personal roadmap
to success in everything from work, women,
and grooming to etiquette, wardrobe, black tie
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With wit and authority Esquires experts reveal:
4 shirts every man should own. Style secret is
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3 things you should never bring to a meeting.

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Get fast service at a crowded bar. Page 73
makes you a happy-hour hero.
Make an off-the-rack blazer look like
it was tailor made. Page 109.
3 secrets for beating jet lag. Read page 21
and feel great the moment you land.
NOT AVAILABLE IN STORES"
How to check out women without getting

caught. Page 34 is a lifesaver.
Go to: www.Esquire.com/biggest
And so much more!
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Essentials
Or, more specically: Why do we make the choices we make?
Why this shirt and not that one, this suit, not that one? And why does
it matter that we wear what we wear?
Here and throughout this issue are the stories and
circumstances that make clothes, accessories, and ideas great.
Because what and how will get a man only so far
true style depends on knowing why.
28
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The greatest luxury in mens wear isnt a tailored

fit or a rare cloth but a strong narrative, a sense
that an article of clothing has traveled far and
wide before finding its way to one well-dressed
owner. Few designers right now are better
storytellers than Massimo Piombo, who, whether
traveling for business or pleasure, is always in
search of fabrics that speak of specific times and
places. His cashmere may come from Scotland and
his silk from France; whatever their provenance,
his clothes always try to tell a story. Like this jackets
artisanal cotton, which Piombo found at a small
farm in Belgium. Inspired by Renoir, the jacket is
a captivating take on the classic sporting blazer
and a way to tell a story without even speaking.
Double-breasted linen-and-cotton jacket ($2,475),
MP di Massimo Piombo; mrporter.com.
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After mastering high-end eyewear with

his Italia Independent line, Lapo Elkann
turned his eye to collaborationand his
heritage. This past season, the grandson of
Fiat founder and style icon Gianni Agnelli
teamed up with Gucci creative director Frida
Giannini to produce a collection based on
his late grandfathers famous stockpile of
bespoke items. The result is a line of suits,
coats, and bags that combine Guccis fabled
craftsmanship and Elkanns eye for the extra
10 percent (see: the L. E. monogram, the
green and black stripes). It may not turn you
into a titan of industry, but will definitely
make you look and feel like one.
Leather bag ($3,450) by Gucci-Lapos Wardrobe;
gucci.com. Sunglasses ($197) by Italia Independent;
italiaindependent.com.
30
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TO BREAK THE RULES,

YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.
THE WATCH THAT BROKE ALL THE RULES, REBORN. IN 1972,
THE ORIGINAL ROYAL OAK SHOCKED THE WATCHMAKING
WORLD AS THE FIRST HAUTE HOROLOGY SPORTS WATCH
TO TREAT STEEL AS A PRECIOUS METAL. TODAY THE NEW
ROYAL OAK COLLECTION STAYS TRUE TO THE SAME
PRINCIPLES SET OUT IN LE BRASSUS ALL THOSE YEARS
AGO: BODY OF STEEL, HEART OF GOLD.
OVER 130 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL CRAFT, MASTERY
AND FINE DETAILING LIE INSIDE THIS ICONIC MODERN
EXTERIOR; THE PURPOSEFUL ROYAL OAK ARCHITECTURE
NOW EXPRESSED IN 41MM DIAMETER. FROM AVANT-GARDE
TO ICON.
ROYAL OAK
IN STAINLESS STEEL.
CHRONOGRAPH.
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807

NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858
BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700
AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
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After successfully breathing life back into
Burberry as a deputy to Christopher Bailey,
American designer Martin Cooper has
brought a similar resuscitative touch to
another quintessentially British brand:
Belstaff. This field jacket incorporates a 1950s
brushstroke camouflage, originally created
for the Belgian military, and its got a stashable
hood and enough pockets to pack everything
from your wallet to your keys to your
passport. No matter what country its from.
Cotton jacket ($1,450) by Belstaff; saks.com.
32
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SPRING 2014
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Original Scottish brogues had

holes near the toe to let bog
water run out. Since then,
most broguing has been done
purely for show, but this year,
in a nod to tradition, Church
went ahead and pierced their
shoes right through. This
particular style, the Spectator,
was designed for cricket but
quickly trickled down to even
the least athletic among us.
The addition of white lightens
up an otherwise formal shoe
for casual warm-weather wear.
And any necessary bogging.
Shoes ($670) by Churchs;
church-footwear.com.
34
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www.sandcopenhagen.com
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Available at:
SAND Los Angeles and Saks Fifth Avenue
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The double-breasted trend is
nowhere near a stopping point,
although it may have taken a
slight detour. Instead of the
traditional six by twothree
parallel rows of buttons, two of
which hold the jacket closed
many designers, including
Stefano Pilati, who designed this
Zegna suit, are returning to the
less-conventional two by one.
Its a modern summer version
of a classic look: streamlined,
comfortable, and (both literally
and figuratively) a little less
buttoned-up.
Double-breasted wool-and-mohair
suit ($5,595) and cotton shirt ($895) by
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture; zegna.com.
36
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PROMOTION
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ESQUIRE
SALUTES
T
FINEST M HE
EN
SPECIAL S
TY
STORES
IN TH
COUNTR E
Y
THE A-LIST | ESQUIRE SALUTES THESE STORES THAT STAND THE TEST OF TIME.
BAUMANS MENS SHOP, Little Rock, AR
LINDSAY ODOM LTD., High Point, NC;
BEECROFT & BULL, Richmond, VA;
Greensboro, NC
Virginia Beach, VA; Charlottesville, VA
M.S. MCCLELLAN, Knoxville, TN
BILLY REID, Florence, AL; New York, NY;
MALLASADI MENS BOUTIQUE, Dallas, TX
Dallas, TX; Houston, TX; Nashville, TN;
MAUS & HOFFMAN, Fort Lauderdale, FL;
Charleston, SC; Atlanta, GA
Naples, FL; Palm Beach, FL
BRICKS, Wichita, KS
MICHAEL DURU CLOTHIERS, Shrewsbury, NJ;
BURDI CLOTHING, Chicago, IL
New York, NY
BUTCH BLUM, Seattle, WA
MR. OOLEYS, Oklahoma City, OK
CAPRA & CAVELLI, Austin, TX
MR. SID, Newton, MA
CHOCKEYS, Raleigh, NC
NICS TOGGERY, Tallahassee, FL
CIRCA 2000 FINE MENSWEAR, Plano, TX
NORTON DITTO, Houston, TX
CONFEDERACY, Los Angeles, CA
PAUL SIMON COMPANY, Charlotte, NC
CUFFS, Chagrin Falls, OH
PERLIS, New Orleans, LA
DAVIDSONS, Roanoke, VA
PETER ELLIOT MENS, New York, NY
DE CORATO, New York, NY
PITKIN COUNTY DRY GOODS, Aspen, CO
EDWARD ARCHER, Southampton, NY
RALEIGH LIMITED, Indianapolis, IN
F. CAMALO, Lafayette, LA
RICHARD BENNETT CLOTHING FOR MEN,
FORTY FIVE TEN, Dallas, TX
Haddonfield, NJ
FRANCOS FINE CLOTHIER, Richmond, VA
ROBERT R. BAILEY, Albuquerque, NM;
GALTRUCCO SHOP, Bal Harbor, FL
Santa Fe, NM
GEORGE BASS, New Orleans, LA; Baton Rouge, LA
RON HERMAN, Los Angeles, CA;
GEORGE GREENE, Chicago, IL
Beverly Hills, CA; Brentwood, CA; Malibu, CA
GORSUCH LTD., Vail, CO
SAM CAVATO, St. Louis, MO
GREAT SCOTT LTD., Jackson, MS
SEBASTIANS CLOSET, Dallas, TX
GUFFEYS OF ATLANTA, Atlanta, GA
THE MANS SHOP, Arlington, TX
HADLEIGHS, Dallas, TX
THE RED BARN, Rochester, NY
JOE BRAND, Laredo, TX; McAllen, TX
THE WEBSTER, Miami Beach, FL
JOHN CRAIG, Winter Park, FL
UTAH WOOLEN MILLS, Salt Lake City, UT
KHAKIS MEN CLOTHIER OF CARMEL, Carmel, CA
THE GOLD STANDARD | THESE STORES CONTINUOUSLY RAISE THE BAR ON WHAT IT
MEANS TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS.
A. TAGHI, Houston, TX
LOUIS BOSTON, Boston, MA
ANDRISEN MORTON MENS, Denver, CO
M PENNER, Houston, TX
BARNEYS NEW YORK, New York, NY
MALOUFS, Lubbock, TX
BERGDORF GOODMAN, New York, NY
MARIOS, Portland, OR; Seattle, WA; Tigard, OR
BOYDS, Philadelphia, PA
MARSHS, Huntington, NY
DAVIDE CENCI, New York, NY
MITCHELLS, Westport, CT
GARMANY, Red Bank, NJ
OAK HALL, Memphis, TN
GARYS, Newport Beach, CA
RICHARDS, Greenwich, CT
GENE HILLER, Sausalito, CA
RODES FOR HIM & FOR HER, Louisville, KY
GODFRYS, Worthington, OH; Columbus, OH
RUBENSTEINS, New Orleans, LA
GUY LA FERRERA ITALIAN CLOTHING,
SHAIAS, Birmingham, AL
Boca Raton, FL
SID MASHBURN, Atlanta, GA
HUBERT WHITE, Minneapolis, MN
SYD JEROME, Chicago, IL
JAMES DAVIS, Memphis, TN
STANLEY KORSHAK, Dallas, TX
JEFFREY NEW YORK, New York, NY
TAYLOR RICHARDS & CONGER, Charlotte, NC
KILGORE TROUT, Cleveland, OH
THE CLOTHERIE, Phoenix, AZ
LARRIMORS, Pittsburgh, PA
WEISS & GOLDRING, Alexandria, LA
LEVYS, Nashville, TN
WILKES BASHFORD, San Francisco, CA
LAWRENCE COVELL, Denver, CO
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Typically associated with warm winter

suits, the chalk stripe has been reimagined
for the summer by a new generation of
Neapolitan tailors. Just as Vincenzo Attolini
trimmed down British suiting to create the
first unlined blazer, these men and women
removed every bit of unnecessary padding
and material from the modern jacket. Eidos
Napoli takes it one step further with this
suit, which is made from a rich, textured
silk that gives it the look of a winter fabric
with the breathability and comfort of a
summer suit.
Three-button silk suit ($1,295), cotton shirt ($225), and silk
knit tie ($155) by Eidos Napoli. Suit: carsonstreetclothiers.
com. Shirt and tie: bloomingdales.com.
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S E T D E S I G N BY J A N I N E I V E R S O N .
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E S SAY
The Art of Overdressing

Neither heat nor humidity nor BYOB BBQ should stop a man from going
all out with his style. The secret is knowing how.
By Paul Feg
dress way nicer than the situation calls for,
which these days shouldnt be hard. Guys
Assuming an average life span of 80 years,
used to do it all the time. They played cricket
we are each alive for only 29,200 days. Meanwhile wearing top hats. They climbed mouning that if the days were alive were dollars,
tains with ties on. They put on tuxedos to go
wed be just above the federal poverty line for
out to dinner every night, not just to the oca family of four. And thats if you start countcasional black-tie wedding. And they looked
ing from when were babies. You can pretdamn good, the same way more of the world
ty much cut that number in half now, unless
should look right now.
youre some stylish teen whos wisely reading
Theres literally no excuse not to do it today.
the Big Black Book for advice on tuxes for the
You can buy g reat suits everywhere these
prom. If so, then you get a few thousand more
days, young person. But the clock is still majorly ticking for all of us. days at all kinds of price points. H&M, Zara, Banana Republic, and
However, cheer up. Weve still got a shitload of days to make a great J. Crew are just a few of the places making affordable suits with cuts
impression on the world. Weve got thousands of chances to let our you used to have to go to Savile Row and Milan for. The only thing
style flags fly and hopefully inspire other guys to do the same. So the stopping you is you and the odd and baseless suspicion that style
moral is dont squander even one of the days you have left on earth and comfort need be mutually exclusive. So nut up, throw on a suit
and tie when no one is expecting you to, and surprise the hell out of
by dressing like a slob.
everybody. Its fun!
Instead, I say you should overdress whenever possible.
Ready to take the plunge? Well, here are a few tips.
What does that mean, exactly? Basically, Im saying you should
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SPRING 2014
P H OTO I L L U S T R AT I O N BY A R I A N B E H Z A D I
ALLOW ME to depress the hell out of you.
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OWN IT. Dont go to the trouble of overdressing only to walk sheepishly into a room filled with people dressed ultracasually with an attitude that says, Oh, crap, I didnt know this was a sweatpants party. Sorry for making you feel awkward, everyone. Ill go change. You
look like a million bucks, so act like youre carrying every dollar of it
in your pocket. But also heed the next rule. . . .
overdressng 101
A few things to keep in mind when going the extra mile
DOnt be a Dick. You want to inspire other guys to overdress, not chastise them into it. If someone asks you, Why you all dressed up? dont
answer with a haughty Because Im an adult and this is how adults
dress. Oh, you will be tempted to say that (I am constantly), but a
more political and aspirational answer, like I just feel better when
Im dressed like this or Its just my thing. I enjoy it, is more likely to
get them thinking about maybe experimenting with a nicer look themselves. Lead by example, not by lecture.
cOntrOl yOur Own cOmfOrt. Yes, summer is here. Its hot out. But
thats not an excuse for immediately throwing on your shorts, flipflops, and tank top before heading to the nice barbecue your married-couple friends are hosting. If you see men in photos from 100
years ago wearing suits and ties and heavy hats in the summer months,
their clothes made of wool and thick cotton as they moved through a
world that had no air-conditioning, they dont look like they were horribly uncomfortable. Ive seen pictures of people actually smiling. They
knew the summer was hot and they dealt with it. Which means that
you can either give in to the heat or control the way you feel about it.
When I was shooting The Heat in Boston, it was very humid. I could
easily have directed in a swimsuit and gotten away with it. But I like
to dress professionally when I work, so each day Id put on a summer
suit and get on with it. Im not saying you should throw on a tweed suit
and scarf and turn yourself into a walking Bikram yoga class. Put on
a seersucker suit and tell yourself its worth it to look good. Convince
yourself not to tear off your jacket and tie the minute you feel a little
warm. Grab a cool drink, find some shade, and accept the kudos youll
get from people who will say, How do you look so great? Im sweating my ass off. Sure, you might be a bit sweaty, too, but the distraction of being dapper will overshadow all.
REMEMBER THE COLOR

Two-button silk-and-cotton suit
($5,260), silk tie ($240), leather loafers
($1,610), and silk pocket square ($165)
by Tom Ford; tomford.com. Cotton
shirt ($335) by Dunhill; dunhill.com.
STRIPES SHOULD BE BOLD

Three-button cotton-silk-and-linen
suit ($3,018) and cotton shirt ($493) by
MP di Massimo Piombo; saks.com.
Silk tie ($125) by John Varvatos;
johnvarvatos.com. Leather shoes
by Bally; bally.com.
EXPERIMENT. As an overdresser, youll start to amass more and more

clothes and accessories. And the more stuff you have in your closet,
the more things you have to play with. Mix and match. Pick an era or
a country you like and try to copy its look. Make someone elses look
your own if it speaks to you. Invent your own style. Watch people on
the street. If you like their look or even one aspect of their outfita
different way to wear a hat, an unusual arrangement of a pocket silk,
a flower in a lapel buttonholegive it a try. Variety is the proverbial spice of life.
HAVE FUN. The whole point of overdressing is to enjoy yourself, to enjoy
your look, and to play with aspects of your personality. Those 29,200
days are ticking away, my friend. Go nuts. Wear a three-piece suit when
you fly. Strut down the street with a fancy walking stick and bowler
hat. Be the Lady Gaga of your neighborhood. Why the hell not? I do it
all the time. Lifes too short to be timid and worried about the few people who will make fun of you. Tell yourself theyre secretly jealous of
you. They probably are. But you look great and you feel great and they
dont. And thats what overdressing is all about.
Paul Feig is the director of Bridesmaids and The Heat. He is currently overdressed.
DOUBLE-BREASTED? GOOD. WHITE

AND DOUBLE-BREASTED? BETTER.
Double-breasted cotton jacket
($895) by Kent & Curwen;
kentandcurwen.co.uk.
MIX YOUR TONES

Three-button linen-and-polyester
jacket ($2,495) by Sartorio; barneys.
com. Cotton shirt ($610) by Brunello
Cucinelli; 212-627-9202. Silk knit tie
($205) by Ermenegildo Zegna; zegna.
com. Cotton-and-linen trousers ($395)
by Boglioli; axelsltd.com. Canvas shoes
($625) by John Lobb; 212-888-9797.
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AND DONT FORGET THE SHOES

Leather-and-canvas shoes ($380)
by Grenson; grenson.co.uk.
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ONE MAN, ONE MACHINE.

G.P.M.H.
SPONSOR AND OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER OF WorldMags.net

THE GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE
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GRAND PRIX DE MONACO

HISTORIQUE CHRONOGRAPH
N e w Yo r k - B a l H a r b o u r S h o p s
South Coast Plaza - Las Vegas
1 . 8 0 0 . C H O PA R D
E x p l o r e t h e c o l l e c t i o n a t U S . C H O PA R D . C O M
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The Stu of
Summer
Suede bomber jacket

($995) by J. Crew; jcrew.
com. Suede shoes ($580)
by Santoni; santonishoes.
com. Suede belt ($250) by
Massimo Alba; barneys.com.
Suede tote bag ($1,425) by
Tods; tods.com.
Balmy? Hot? Hellacious even? These

four materials have you covered, no
matter what the weather brings.
Photographs by Ben Goldsten
Suede
Summer suede might be the most comfortable thing youre not
wearing right now, mostly because its lighter than anything
tougher and tougher than anything lighter. Much of that lightness has to do with its weightsummer suede is made from the
thinnest of hidesand much of the toughness has to do with
the fact that, all softness aside, its leather. Focus on accessories
(shoes and belts in particular) and, for chilly nights, the classic
bomber jacket.
Users guide: Preferably dont clean it at all. If you must, take it to
a leather specialist. If you happen to get it wet, quickly use a dry
cloth to absorb moisture, and hang to dry away from direct heat.
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STUFF OF SUMMER
Two-button cotton jacket

($799) and cotton shirt
($210) by Aspesi; barneys.
com. Cotton sweatpants
($198) by Diesel; diesel.
com. Cotton shoes
($625) by John Lobb;
212-888-9797.
Cotton
Like pizza and sex, there is no such thing as bad cotton, only varying degrees of goodness, and here are a few things that really good
cotton can do for you: It absorbs moisture readily and enables
evaporation; it draws heat away from the skin; it breathes, helping air circulate and pass through its open weave; it holds a press
well but holds a slight rumple even better; it gets softer with age
(usually) as its coloring gets more interesting (always); and from
socks and sweatpants to suits and dress shirts, there is no article
46
of really good cotton clothingin summer or any other season

that wont serve its wearer well.
Users guide: Jackets and dressier pieces should be dry-cleaned
to preserve their structure. More-casual pieces can be hand- or
machine-washed in cold water for darks (and warm water for
lights and whites). Tumble dry on regular heat or, better yet, hang
out to dry.
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SPRING 2014
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paulshark.it
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STUFF OF SUMMER
Double-breasted linen
suit ($1,450) by Polo Ralph
Lauren; ralphlauren.com.
Linen shirt ($450) by Ralph
Lauren Purple Label;
ralphlauren.com. Linen
tie ($92) by Pierrepont
Hicks; pierreponthicks.
com. Linen pocket square
($75) by Robert Talbott;
roberttalbott.com.
LNEN
Maybe its the what-the-hell rumple or the hardy, open-weave texture or the Mark Twainishness of it all, but there is something inherently nonchalant about linen. The truth, however, is that linen
works hard for the man who wears it. Derived from the flax plant,
one of the strongest vegetable fibers around, linen is typically stiffer than cotton (all while matching cottons strength and durability),
and given its loose weave, linen circulates air around the skin and
lets body heat escape beautifully. If pressed, a well-cut linen suit
48
can work in any office, and if slightly wrinkled that same suit can
be worn to the most casual of cocktail gatherings. It is versatile,
valuable, and very, very tough.
Users guide: Dry-clean sparingly if its a suit; wash it on the gentle
cycle in cool to warm water if its a shirt. Or, better still, hand-wash
with soap. And if you want to remove any wrinkles, steam the linen.
You do have a steamer, right?
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SPRING 2014
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THIS SPRING
BREAK NEW
GROUND
2014 Allen Edmonds Corporation.
2014 COLLECTION
See the entire Spring Collection as well as our Apparel Collection in stores now. Shop Allen Edmonds
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Retail Stores, AllenEdmonds.com
and other fine retailers nationwide.
One
Drink,
Two
Cars,
Three
Nights
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Nine men of style cut

through the infinite
variety and options
in contemporary
luxury and offer
their choices for the
best in cocktails,
cars, and travel. And
what better to start
with than . . .
HIS ONE DRINK
Vesper
Martn
In a previous life,
I worked for the
British government,
for the Ministry of
Defence, in the R&D
agency there. Our
job was to come up
with fun technologies
that could be useful
for the ministry. Part
of the agency that
I was working for
privatized and floated
on the London
Stock Exchange, and
the ticker was QQ,
QinetiQ, a nod to Q
from the James Bond
films. So the Vesper
martini reminds me
of some happy days.
Plus, its an amazingly
tasty drink and quite
a serious oneso you
need only one.
the
1
D rnk
The one he has when hes

having only one
CHRS MORTON
CEO and cofounder of
luxury e-commerce site Lyst,
London
* Learn how to make each cocktail at esquire.com.
50
E SQU I R ES BIG BL ACK BOOK
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SPRING 2014
I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY A D A M C R U F T
Photographs by
Jon Paterson
cesareattolini.com
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798 Madison Avenue New York

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ONE DRINK
HIS ONE DRINK
Negron
Im not really a
cocktail guy, but the
negroni I like. Its
simple and classic.
Not frou-frou, not
too complicated.
Cocktails, now, can
take longer to make
than to cook a steak,
but this one just has
vermouth, Campari,
and a touch of orange
zest. Its not like the
margarita, which
everybody loves.
This is bitter and less
sweet, and you either
love it or you dont
love it. And I love it.
LUDO LEFEBVRE
Chef behind Trois Mec, pop-up
dining impresario,
Los Angeles
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ONE DRINK
HIS ONE DRINK
The
Retox
As you hit your late 30s, 40s, you try to drink a little less beer,
and Im now a huge tequila drinker. Its very compatible with
me, and I dont seem to get hangovers from it, which is nice.
There is this one drink called the Retoxits not readily available at
every restaurantthat one of my favorite restaurants in Brooklyn
makes. It is basically reposado tequila with chiles, maple syrup, and
lime juice. Its a really hot, spicy tequila drink thatll definitely put
some hairs on your chest. Or take them off. Either way.
SMON SPURR
Creative director, Kent & Curwen,
New York
54
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SPRING 2014
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TM
di Bianco
scarpe
Prima i Piedi
Andrisen Morton
Garys
Hideoki Bespoke
Denver
AndrisenMorton.com
Newport Beach
GarysOnline.com
Atlanta
HideokiBespoke.com
Khakis of Carmel
Stanley Korshak
Trunk Club
Carmel
KhakisofCarmel.Com
Dallas
StanleyKorshak.com
Chicago
TrunkCLub.com
www.scarpedibianco.com
info@scarpedibianco.com
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HIS PICKS
the
ALEXANDER GLKES
Cofounder of auction site
Paddle8, New York
F O R E V E RY D AY
Mercedes
G-Wagon
CARS
Everyone always says if

youre buying the car you
want to start up every
single day of the year,
then you want a German
car. And Mercedes, time
and time again, offers
elegance, comfort, and
reliability. I have this
wonderful cabin in
upstate New York that
sits at the end of a long
driveway, and there are
not many cars that can
handle its meteorological
challenges. The G-Wagon
can and does.
At a certain point in
his life, a man should have
two options in his
garage: an everyday car
(practical, reliable) and
a why-the-fk-not car ( fun,
freewheeling). These guys
have ideas for both.
W H Y-T H E-F K-N OT

CAR
Ctron
DS
My dream car, sublimely

elegant in its design and
looking a little bit like a
shark. It was Charles de
Gaulles favorite, and its
emblematic of a bygone
era, when France was
making such formidable
vehicles.
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TWO CARS
HIS PICKS
DWYANE WADE
Guard, Miami Heat; designer,
the Tie Bar and Stance,
Miami
F O R E V E RY D AY
Jaguar
XJ
Its a four-door and its
got a lot of room, so I
can pick the kids up from
school or move things
around when I need to.
I got it in my own special
color, a kind of matte gray,
and I havent seen another
in Miami like it. If its dirty,
Im jumping in it the same
way as if its clean. Its
just a really comfortable
car, and Im never overly
concerned about how I
look in it.

CAR
Ferrar
458
Im a Ferrari guy. I love
the way they handle; I
love the way they drive.
Though Im not really a
speed demon, when you
get to fast cars, you want
to make sure that they
handle well on the road.
In Miami, it rains a lot, so
I need something that is
sturdy and safe. I really
love the 458. They came
out with a convertible
this year and I fell in
love with it. You have the
speed, the power, but its
also spacious. You know,
Im six four, and Im a little
wide, so I need a car that
has a little room. Certain
two-doors dont give
you the space that you
necessarily need, but this
one does.
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TWO CARS
HIS PICKS
SCOTT GERBER
CEO, Gerber Group; coowner of Stone Rose Lounge,
et al., New York
F O R E V E RY D AY
Range
Rover
Sport
Where I live, there are a
lot of dirt roads, and even
though this handles like
a sports car, it can also
take on the rugged terrain
and rain in Westchester
County. Still, its very
luxurious. Plus, Ive got
dogs and a son who plays
hockey. You can throw all
his crap in the back and
just go.

CAR
Mercedes
280SL
I have the actual one that
my dad bought in 1970. I
remember he brought it
home the first day, and
we were playing baseball
in the driveway. My
brother threw it over my
head and it hit the back
of the car. The dent from
the baseball is still there.
Its a very reliable car, and
my dad said to me, One
day, its gonna be yours.
So when he passed away,
it did actually become
mine. And then I told my
son, Okay, now when I
diehopefully not for a
long timeits gonna be
yours. Hopefully itll be
in our family forever.
60
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SPRING 2014
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STYLE MEANS NOTHING, UNLESS ITS PERSONAL

Unsurpassed custom style goes like this: You meet one of our thousands of certified J.Hilburn Personal Stylists.
Youre precisely measured and a style is defined exclusively for you. Then garments made from the finest fabrics in
the world are delivered directly to your door. Your fit. Your look. Your own personal stylist.
Let the compliments begin.
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the
3
NGHTS
Anywhere in the world,

doing anything youd
like, for just enough time
to unwind
HIS THREE NIGHTS
cap estel
1. Cap Estels 18
rooms are situated
on a peninsula in the
Mediterranean Sea.
2. Cap Estels secluded
stony beach.
3. Outdoor tables at
the hotel restaurant.
4. The view from a
room in Le Cap, the
resorts main building.
Ive been to probably

1,500 hotels in my life,
and for me Cap Estel is
one of the top five that
I would always go back
to. Its a hotel in ze, on
the French Riviera, and
its the epitome of what
the French Riviera really
was meant to be. Its very
close to Monaco, and
friends of mine who live
in Monaco dont even
know about it. Theres
a private little beach,
which is very hard to
find in the South of
France, and there is no
disturbance whatsoever.
You just look straight out
over the Mediterranean
Sea and relax your three
days away.
2
4
PHLPPE KJELLGREN
Cofounder and CEO, Hotel
Insider, London
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THREE NIGHTS
HIS THREE NIGHTS
cape
town
I first went to Cape

Town about 20 years ago
to surfI was actually
thinking of becoming
a pro windsurferand
whenever I go back, I
stay at the One & Only
hotel. Its an hours
drive to wine country,
and its also easy to
do something a little
more adventurous. They
have something called
abseiling, where you
basically hang on a rope
and go down a 200-foot
cliff, and you just forge
on through this huge
waterfall. If thats not
enough, you can go cage
diving and see the Great
White eye to eye. Or,
you know, you can just
stay at the hotel.
1. The One & Only

hotels spa.
2. Abseiling down
a nearby cliff.
3. Table Mountain,
as seen from the
penthouse pool.
4. Overlooking the
spa garden.
5. The view from a
Marina room.
GORDEN WAGENER
Head of design, MercedesBenz, Stuttgart
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THREE NIGHTS
HIS THREE NIGHTS
costa
careyes
1. One of six bedrooms in
the Sol de Occidente castle.
2. Sol de Oriente castle
from the air.
3. The rugged coast of
Costa Careyes.
4. A zigzag pool with a
view of the Pacific Ocean.
5. Sol de Oriente from its
wraparound pool.
This little strip of land is

everything that Mexico
was meant to be. You
have to fly to Puerto
Vallarta and then drive
about two hours south
unless youre coming in
on a private plane, then
there is a dirt landing
strip you can use. Now
most of the great parts
of Mexico have been
overdeveloped, but here
there are just two small
hotels, Sol de Occidente
and Sol de Oriente, and
the best thing about it
is that theres nothing
you absolutely have to
do. You can go deep-sea
fishing and see if you
can catch a marlin. You
can check out the polo
matches (which arent
really about watching
polo but hanging out
with people watching
polo). Or you can just sit
by the pool, overlooking
the bay, and do nothing.
This is a place that you
can go back to seven,
ten years later and itll
always be the same. And
thats pretty rare in the
world we live in today.
3
4
MCHAEL BRUNO
Founder and chairman of
interior-design auction site
1stdibs, New York
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Pal Zileri Las Vegas

The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South, Suite K8 - T. +1 702 431 5721
www.palzileri.com
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E S SAY
The Dark Side of Americana

Turns out theres more to it than duck boots and hunting jackets
IT WAS SOMETHING of a transformative moment

for fashion in the U. S. A. when, several years
ago, men rediscovered the timeless charms
of Americana. A new population of would-be
hipsters embraced the kind of clothes worn
by their honest-to-goodness grandfathers
while they carried out honest-to-goodness
daily chores: mending stuff, hunting, fishing,
or simply trudging off to work. It was all very wholesome, connecting
style-interested young men with a rosy-eyed vision of harder but simpler lives; it also reached back to far older archetypes of heroic Americanathe frontiersman, the hardworking farmer, the lumberjack,
and even the cowboythat are never terribly far, even now, from the
surface at the casual end of mens style.
So what on earth does it mean that many designers this season, especially Europeans, have started turning to Americas darker side
68
for inspirationto our grunge rockers, our

movie hoodlums, our slackers, and our general bad eggs? Whither the Marlboro Man and
Norman Rockwell?
Kim Jones, style director of Louis Vuitton
Men, is an inveterate traveler, often jetting off
halfway round the world to remote places to
observe wildlife and landscape, suitable inspiration for a house whose cachet remains its devotion to the luxury
of travel. Last year, to gather inspiration for his spring-summer collection, he drove from New Orleans to Las Vegas, and the results included many of the hallmarks of American sportswear, wholesome
(athletes in varsity jackets, Boy Scout jackets appliqud with Vuittonesque patches) and non (greasers in leather).
Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane has registered a dark and compelling new
look for Saint Laurent, a storied Parisian brand that has (surprisingly)
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SPRING 2014
By nck sullvan
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now set down roots in the alternative side of America. In his hands,
black biker jackets and bandannas, drainpipe denim, and varsity
jackets are executed as if they were couture and suggest a new definition of luxury that seemingly has little whatever to do with the
couture house. His etiolated shapesalways impossibly skinny
are clearly not for everyone. But if reports from the stores are to be
believed, the look is selling like hotcakes.
The flip side of Americana is also patently evident at Prada, where
designer Miuccia Prada has thrown herself wholeheartedly into a
modernized take on the great American summer lowlife, with complicated reworkings in print and appliqu of Hawaiian shirts, baseball jackets, and broken-up suits. The collection recalls countless Hollywood moments from taut Chandleresque thrillers like Cape Fear
and From Here to Eternity. It is a dark vision conjured not in polyester, however, but in sumptuous silk and mohair.
Were a long way from Filson and L. L. Bean here, those beacons
of homegrown heritage whose original success had been built simply on their functionality and ubiquity. But America is nothing if
not a wide-open place, and Americana can be equally accommodating, particularly when its an outsider (a European designer, for instance) looking in.
Some history (compliments, mind you, from an expatriated Englishman): In the decades following World War II, American movies
and music propagated a rebellious multinational youth culture far
outside the countrys borders. And from those first years when Europe became fully aware of it, American culture was always a rich
cocktail of good and bad, heroes and villains, insiders and outsiders. But the bad guys were, as a rule, far more compelling. We didnt
get the good guys first; we got all of it at oncea cultural explosion
that filled the void left by war. America stood for rebellion and excitement to young people whod grown up in the impoverished uncertainty of postwar Europe, and interest in the style vernacular of
that rebellionjeans and leather jackets particularlyhas never
abated. For many European designers operating today, Rebel Without a Cause and The Outsiders, the Ramones, and Iggy Pop are America, and the attendant wardrobe staples, from Converse high-tops to
Schott motorcycle jackets, are every bit as Americana as Carhartt
carpenter pants.
It remains to be seen whether men who once flocked to field jackets and duck boots as blue-collar ideals and blessed antidotes to allenveloping, mall-preppy normality will embrace this darker, grittier, and sometimes seedier side of Americana. My money says yes.
For one thing, there are a handful of American designers who have
been doing this very thing on their own for some timeJohn Varvatos, whose collections (including a long successful tie-up with Converse) revel in the gritty side of this nations rock cultureand are
doing just fine with it. For another, mens fashion as a market sector
is growing worldwide, but especially here in America, where a new
enthusiasm for style as a valid and important part of mens lives has
been gathering pace over the past decade. Luxury and quality, we
know, should affirm our deepest aspirations, and a sense of history and narrative informs our purchases. And so having flirted with
sprezzatura, schooled ourselves on the origins of tweed, learned the
names of the best bespoke shoemakers in old Europe, and, yes, trafficked in our own folksy heritage, it might be time to look for quality and craftsmanship in the darker corners of the American psyche.
If nothing else, this shift in focus by some of Europes key names
confirms that mens style, for all its reliance on traditions and rules,
is in fact an ever-shifting thing. And if Americana needs a little edge
to make it interesting, then so be it.
The (other) Amercana

A few things to keep in mind on your walk on the dark side
Just because the inspiration

might be seedysay, Robert
De Niro in Cape Fear
doesnt mean it cant be luxe.
Silk shirt ($1,375), mohair
trousers ($955), and leather
shoes by Prada; prada.com.
When in doubt: black.

Coton varsity jacket ($795) by Rag &
Bone; bergdorfgoodman.com.
Even the most classic of

slacker staples (like the checkered
Vans) can stand an update.
Canvas slip-ons ($47) by Vans;
vans.com/classics.
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Personality (through
patches, grafiti, rips, or tears)
conveys personality.
Coton-and-leather hooded
jacket ($5,180) by Louis Vuiton;
louisvuiton.com.
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WAT C H E S
The quality and craftsmanship you want,

at the price you want to pay
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T H E P R I C E TAG
MORE THAN
What to expect: Precious metals,

impeccable design, and high-end complications,
like perpetual calendars, tourbillons
(which increase accuracy by countering the
effects of gravity on watch parts), and
yback chronographs.
1. Steel Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch ($18,900) by Audemars Piguet; audemarspiguet.com. 2. Steel Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II watch
($18,750) by Rolex; rolex.com. 3. Yellow-gold Calatrava watch ($20,800) by Patek Philippe; patek.com. 4. Titanium L-Evolution R Chronographe Flyback Grande Date watch ($18,600) by
Blancpain; 212-396-1735. 5. Yellow-gold Classique extra-thin watch ($17,800) by Breguet; breguet.com.
SPRING 2014
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2
T H E P R I C E TAG
What to expect: Complex, handcrafted

mechanical movements, extraordinary accuracy,
and dive ratings worthy of an
actual diver. Also: envious glances. Youll
get plenty of those, too.
1. Steel Monaco 24 watch ($13,500) by TAG Heuer; shop.tagheuer.com. 2. Pink-gold 1681 Ronde ($14,400) by Jean Richard; jeanrichard.com. 3. Steel Transocean Unitime Pilot watch
($11,200) by Breitling; breitling.com. 4. Steel Seventies Panorama Date watch ($10,100) by Glashtte Original; tourbillon.com. 5. Steel Diagono Calibro 303 watch ($12,800) by Bulgari;
bulgari.com. 6. Steel Sea Hawk watch ($13,800) by Girard-Perregaux; cellinijewelers.com.
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2
T H E P R I C E TAG
What to expect: Most every precious

metal you could want (save budget-busters
like platinum), and nifty details
like a crystal back to show off the delicate
internal movements.
1. Steel-and-rose-gold Mille Miglia Zagato watch ($9,900) by Chopard; us.chopard.com. 2. Steel Master Moon 39 watch ($9,650) by Jaeger-LeCoultre; jaeger-lecoultre.com.
3. Steel Capeland Worldtimer watch ($7,900) by Baume & Mercier; baume-et-mercier.com. 4. Steel Seamaster Planet Ocean GoodPlanet watch ($8,100) by Omega; omegawatches.com.
5. Steel Radiomir 1940 3 Days watch ($8,900) by Panerai; panerai.com.
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2
T H E P R I C E TAG
What to expect: A high-quality

mechanical movement with a few complications;
cases usually made of lightweight,
durable titanium, high-tech ceramics,
or even solid gold.
1. Steel Pilots Mark XVII watch ($4,900) by IWC; iwc.com. 2. Steel BR123 Sport Heritage watch ($3,100) by Bell & Ross; bellross.com. 3. Steel Tank MC watch ($6,600) by Cartier; cartier.
us. 4. Ceramic-and-steel J12 watch ($6,450) by Chanel; 800-550-0005. 5. PVD Classic Black chronograph ($5,200) by David Yurman; davidyurman.com. 6. Steel Chiffre Rouge A02 watch
($6,100) by Dior Timepieces; dior.com.
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W I T H T H A N K S TO S T E P H E N J . P U LV I R E N T AT H O D I N K E E , E D E S T L O W
AT E D E S T L O W. C O M , A N D M I C H A E L S A N D L E R AT TO U R N E A U .
T H E P R I C E TAG
Less than
What to expect: More than you probably expect. With recent

advancements in technology, as little as $500 gets you elegant design
with quartz movement. As you get closer to $3,000, expect more
complications (a chronograph is usually the rst addition), mechanical
movement, and an inclination to buy insurance.
1. Steel Star Date automatic watch ($2,995) by Montblanc; montblanc.com. 2. Steel PRC 200 quartz chronograph ($525) by Tissot; us.tissotshop.com. 3. Steel with yellow-gold PVD
coating Maestro watch ($1,750) by Raymond Weil; bloomingdales.com. 4. Steel-and-PVD Series 800 watch ($1,695) by Movado; movado.com. 5. Steel Astron GPS Solar watch ($1,850) by
Seiko; seikousa.com. 6. Steel Runwell watch ($600) by Shinola; shinola.com.
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The One-Day Apprentice

What goes into the engineering and elegance of the perfect (sorry, imperfect) unlined blazer
by rchard dorment
Photographs by Lorenzo Brnghel
B E FO R E I COU LD DO AN YTHING before I could

get my hands on some of the nest wool in the
world; before I could stitch together two pieces
of cloth to create the delicately structured neck
of a sport coat that will retail for a few thousand
dollars; before I could prove to the dozens of
craftsmen around me that I was not simply another ungainly Americano
touring their factory but rather a serious student in awe of the elegance
and engineering of their creationsI had to thread a needle.
It had been about 25 years since the rst, and last, time I tried to sew
anything, and my only needle-threading experience in the meantime had
been strictly metaphorical. Yet there I was, in the Neapolitan jacket headquarters of Cesare Attolini, surrounded by some of the most skilled tailors in all of mens tailoring, and I couldnt get the blasted piece of thread
through the blasted eye of the blasted needle. I wet the end with my
mouth, just as my fth-grade home-ec teacher had taught me. I experi-
76
mented with various approaches into the eye

of a standard-issue needle (slowly, carefully;
quickly, forcefully). I concentrated really, really hard. And after four excruciating minutes of
trying and failing, Armando Acres, the 69-yearold master tailor charged with my instruction,
offered his hands in assistance. (Thats him, instructing me, at top left.) He
recut the end of the thread; wet it; and, after three failed attempts, jammed
it through the eye. Lesson number one in my one-day apprenticeship: Nobody threads the needle on the rst try, not even a tailor in a shop that
used to make jackets for the Duke of Windsor.
Like skiing and speaking a foreign language, sewing is a skill that is
best learned young, and as Armando later explained to me, if you havent
learned to sew by the time you hit puberty, the best you can hope for is
mere competency. (The implications for picking it up in middle age were
clear.) To be a virtuoso, you need to start youngerArmando began
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BR 03-92 CERAMIC Automatic 42 mm Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 information@bellrossusa.com e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
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Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content
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T H E O N E - DAY A P P R E N T I C E
Clockwise from left: Cesare Attolini, still a daily presence in the factory at eighty-six years old; a tailor uses a sliver of chalk the size and shape of a thick guitar pick to
mark measurements along a jackets neck-in-progress; a craftsman focuses on a jackets interior construction; Giuseppe Attolini, left, who runs the day-to-day business of the business along with his brother, checks the progress of a jacket.
Ah, Naples: the Baltimore of Italy, with beautiful seaside vistas and
to learn at about the age of ten, when, through some tangling of familial
branches, he ended up apprenticing for a tailor named Vincenzo Attolini. bone-deep blue-collar sensibilities. For all the luxury textiles and high(When asked why he chose tailoring as a trade rather than, well, anything ly trained specialists in the Attolini atelier, it remains very much a place
else, he thought for a minute and shrugged: Back then, we didnt choose. where people make stuff. It smells a bit like a dry cleaner. The employees
Have I mentioned that Armando is a slightly smaller version of Philip Bak- wear white jackets over Saturday leisure wear. The two dozen wood-ander Hall? Same hooded eyes, same grave countenance, quietly intimidating.) white-Formica workstations are lined up in neat linear rows at varying
Vincenzo had learned the old ways of British tailoringlots of structure, heights, some of them requiring their occupants to stand all day in order to achieve the right angles to perform their
lots of paddingbefore falling under the sway of
prescribed tasks. (You cant sing opera when
two giants of early-20th-century Italian tailoring,
youre sitting down, one standing tailor workDomenico Caraceni of Rome and Gennaro RubiNobody threads
ing on a lapel explained to me.) There is no chatnacci of Naples. Under their inuence, Vincenthe needle on the
ter or music in the spacejust the low hum
zo abandoned the English traditions and effecof industryand the tools dont seem to have
tively invented the unstructured, unlined blazer
rst try, not even
changed much over the decades. Scissors are
with high armholes and unpadded shoulders,
a tailor in a shop
used to cut cloth; needle and thread bind cloth
which would become not only his signature garthat used to make
together; handheld irons press cloth at. Had it
ment (he opened his own shop in 1930) but also
not been for the cross-trainers on many feet, it
that of all Neapolitan tailoring. (He would also
jackets for the
might as well have been 1930.
nd customers as diverse as Clark Gable, MarDuke of Windsor.
As it takes about 30 hours and 250 distinct
cello Mastroianni, and the aforementioned Ensteps to make each jacket, it wouldve been imglish royal.) Vincenzos son Cesare would go on
possible for me to witness one be assembled
to perfect the jacket and revolutionize how the
from beginning to end. Instead, Id arrived earjackets were made, shifting from a single craftsly in the morning to witness as many steps as
man creating a single piece himself to an assempossible, from cutting the cloth (two square mebly line of specialists focusing on specic steps.
And his grandsons, Massimiliano and Giuseppe, would take the business ters for a jacket, give or take, sliced with oversized tailors scissors inglobal, opening up new markets for Attolini (including the U. S., in 1990) to the distinct parts that would come together to form the jacket) to afand overseeing the 130 tailors who now work in this small industrial work- xing the breast pockets (which are cut to slope upward, a barchetta, to
space on the gritty outskirts of Naples. All the while, it has been men like resemble a boat) to stitching the invisible oating canvas into the chest,
Armando who work nine hours a day, eight to ve, assembling, by hand, with nearly every stop punctuated by a quick ironing job. (The repeatthe jackets for which Attolini has become famous. (Attolini now makes ev- ed ironing reinforces the essential shape of the garment.) Nearly all of
erythingtrousers, sweaters, shirts, and ties, all of them crafted at sep- the stitching through this stage of development is done with basting, or
arate facilities. Only the jackets are made in the company headquarters, bright white thread that keeps all the pieces together until the jacket is
nearly complete.
and, truth be told, the jackets are where the action is.)
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shop.santonishoes.com
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T H E O N E - DAY A P P R E N T I C E
Clockwise from top right: Hundreds of bolts of cloth are stacked and stored in a climate- and humidity-controlled room; one of a handful of fine-needlework stations
on the factory floor, where seamstresses (and a few seamsters) focus on the minutest of details; a finished jacket, with all the white basting stitching removed; an employee lines up a mallet to punch a buttonhole in the cloth of a nearly completed jacket; a bolt of cloth woven exclusively for the brand.
What interested me most was the coming together of piecesthe feats what facilitates arm movement later on. The technique is all but impossiof structural engineering that resulted in the perfect lay of the lapel or the ble to replicate using a machine, and its the biggest difference between a
easy slope of the shoulderand Armando steered me toward the station close-tting jacket that feels like a straitjacket and a close-tting jacket that
where the neck piece, a sliver of cloth the size and shape of a banana, is feels like a shirt.
(In an unfortunate bit of planning, I wore my everyday navy-blue blazstitched onto the body of a nearly complete jacket. The cloth of this particular jacket, a plaid cashmere weave from Scotland, was extremely light and er to the factory that day, which, sad to say, was not an Attolini product. At
thin, yet because its cashmere, there was an essential integrity to the cloth various points throughout the day, tailors would use my blazer as an example of something, and each time theyd quickthat allowed me to get a hold on it. As I passed
ly recognize that mine was an inferior machinethe needle through the two layers of cloth, joinmade product with limited mobility in the arms.
ing them together, Armando urged me to keep
is a dirty word
They didnt mean to make me feel bad, of course.
my middle nger, capped by a tiny protective
at Attolini. There
But I know looks of pity when I see them.)
thimble, tucked in close to my palm, the better to
Anyway: As I went about the lentezze, makmaximize dexterity. This is much, much harder
are no at, straight
ing sure that every few millimeters of cloth saw
than it sounds or looks, and Armando tells me he
lines on the human
a ripple, I fell into a steady ow of movement
learned to do this the easy way: by binding his
body, nor should
needle in, needle out, pull the thread through
middle nger into position (using thread) for two
that put me in a state familiar to those in both
months as he was learning to sew.
there be on a
deepest concentration and deepest oblivion:
A great deal of what gives Attolini jackjacket.
outside myself. The demands of the technique
ets their value is how the tailors manage to ofdictated all, and for someone who works at a
fer both a close t and the ability to move ones
desk and is simultaneously juggling phone
arms, thus countering the complaint, common
calls, e-mails, Gchat, and even real-life humans,
among American men of a certain vintage, that
this degree of single-minded purpose was exwell-tting clothes are inherently constricting.
hilarating. I may have been very bad at it, but I
This feat is achieved through a technique the Attolini workers called lentezze. For various seams throughout the jacket, the was very much in it. In about six minutes (or six to twelve times as long
tailors include a few more millimeters of cloth than is technically neces- as it would take a professional), Id successfully attached the neck to the
sary, so when they stitch the seam together, the cloth doesnt lay taut and jacket using basting thread. Later on in the process, once the sleeves
at but rather rises up and down in a subtle ripple. (Flat, Im told, is some- have been attached to the arms and the buttonholes created and the
thing of a dirty word at Attolini. There are no at, straight lines on the hu- myriad other details nalized, a tailor will redo much of the stitching,
man body, nor should there be on a jacket. Another dirty word, by the way, this time using thread that matches the color of the cloth and disappears
is perfect. Nothing ever done by human hand can, or should, be perfect; into the garment. All of the basting, including my handiwork, will come
its artisanal singularity is what makes it unique.) Lentezze literally means out, leaving only the tiniest of markings to show for the true labors of
slowness, but in this context it means looseness, and that looseness is the human hand.
Flat
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GREAT ST YLE BEGINS WIT H GREAT TASTE
MAKE A CLEAR STATEMENT. DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

Alc. 40% by Vol. (80 proof). Tequila imported by Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY 2013
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E S SAY
A Change of Underwear
MOST OF US PICK ONLY ONCE. For whatever reaBy Peter
son we decide, early on, whether were boxers
guys, briefs guys, or even boxer-briefs guys,
and thats pretty much the way it is forever after. When I made my choice, underwear was
just entering the national conversation in a serious wayMarky Mark took to displaying his
funky bunch on billboards and in magazine
ads, and MTV scandalized and enthralled a
generation by asking a presidential candidate if he wore boxers or briefs.
Our unmentionables were no longer unmentionable. Since then, underwear, like personal computing and narcissism, has undergone a revolution. We have new materials, new ts, new ies. Most of all, we have
new options, and not to take advantage of them is to deny ourselves the
possibility of greater comfort. Hell, maybe even greater happiness. We
care more and more about the way we dress and the cut of our suits, so
why should our underwear, which can be just as important to how we
look and feel, go so thoroughly unconsidered?
Over two months, I tried more than 45 pairs of underthings in search
82
Martn
of that perfect pair. Big ones and small ones,

some that actually affected my condence and
some that I couldnt bring myself to let my girlfriend see. And I learned some lessons in the process. (The most important of those was never to
wear a T-shirt to bed when sporting underwear
shorter than boxer briefs; its not a look an adult
male should embrace.) Here are a few of them.
FIND YOUR FIT FIRST. One size does not t all, says Greg Sovell, founder of 2(x)ist, and the cofounder and current creative director of
C-IN2. Men often have very athletic legs, but some guys have no
legs. They have a big seat or no seat. Its really trying to nd the right
silhouette for your body type. After that, underwear comes in almost
every fabric under the sun. Since you cant try on underwear before
buying, youre stuck with trial and error. If you have particularly muscular thighs (and good for you), skip boxer briefs altogether, as they
might be constricting, or uncomfortably forced up your leg. Youre better off with briefs.
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New materials, new ts, new ies: Its a new day for the most important
article of clothing that youre probably not paying attention to.
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ANYTHING IS MORE PRACTICAL THAN BOXERS. Because the most you can hope
for out of boxer shorts is a sanitary layer that keeps you from having to
wash your jeans as often. They do little in terms of moisture wicking, and
you only have to walk two steps in them to know that they do nothing in
terms of support. Plus, as our clothes become more and more tted, the last
thing anyone wants is visible bunching. But I understand that old habits
die hard. If youre a boxers man, look for a pair cut close through the thigh.
fancy-ass underpants
And shirts, too. The best luxury undergarments on
the market today.
THREAD MATTERS. Luxury underwear manufacturers like Bresciani use

ner threads and smaller stitches, which improves seam strength and,
more important to you, leads to less irritation of your skin. In the best
underwear, you cant feel the seams at all: nice for when youre sitting at
your desk, and a lifesaver for running that tenth mile.
DONT BE SCARED OF COLORS OR PATTERNS. All underwear was basically
white until World War II, when Jockey was ordered to switch to an olive
drab, since drying white underwear gave up American soldiers positions to the enemy. Now youll nd everything from neon to camouage,
and bringing color to your underthings is a good way to express yourself, but quietly, and only to those you wish.
CONSIDER THE TRUNK. First there were boxers and briefs; then came boxer briefs into the mix, and over the last decade or so, a new option has
emerged: Cut straight across the hips, trunks offer the minimal fabric of
briefs with a slightly less exposed aesthetic. And for many people, they
work. Trunks are a happy middle ground, says Michael Kleinmann,
the former president of Freshpair and the editor of The Underwear Expert blog. You dont have legs to ride up. Theres no extra fabric under
your clothes. But you do get to keep a little more of your modesty. (NB:
For me, trunks did not work. They felt like boy shorts, which actually look
quite good on women, and I was aware of them all day, mostly because I
thought my ass was coming out of them. And then, getting ready for bed,
my girlfriend told me I looked like a stork at a swim meet. But for other
people? Apparently these are the answer.)
THINK ABOUT PRIORITIES. The right underwear can enhance your apparent situation. The issue is whether or not you want it to. Like a push-up
bra, some underwear focuses its attention on making you more . . . prominent, using the berries to prop up the twig. While this may be a great idea
for an exotic dancer or a Miami man who wears a lot of linen, its less useful for the everyday man. Especially if he plans on walking through subway turnstiles.
EMBRACE THE POUCH. Which is to say, let the pouch embrace you. Many
brands have started building in a special pouchto keep the brat off the
grill, so to speak. The design avoids uncomfortable thigh clinging and
keeps you more organized (and less squashed) when you sit. Saxx takes
this one step further by forming a pouch with two mesh side panels for
added breathability. When you rst put them on, you will feel a little like
a bull being prepped for the rodeo, but the awareness soon fades, leaving you in total comfort.
LOOK FOR SPANDEX. Just a little. I like underwear thats at least 95 percent cotton, but not quite 100, Kleinmann says. If it has a little stretch
in it, underwear makes you look a lot better. Its forgiving. And since everyone is a different size, that stretch helps personalize the underwear.
Too much spandex, however, and your underwear wont breathe well. I
learned that a few seconds after putting on a pair of boxer briefs that were
also compression trunks (10 percent spandex). I could barely get them up
my legsand mine are not imposing legs. When I did manage to pull them
V-Neck
Two-ply mercerized Egyptian-cottonand-Lycra undershirt ($79) by Cesare
Paciotti; customshirt1.com.
Crewneck
Two-ply mercerized Egyptiancotton undershirt ($99) by Bresciani;
customshirt1.com.
Tank top
Pima-cotton tank top ($64) by
Zimmerli; customshirt1.com.
Boxer shorts (on the shorter side)

Cotton boxer shorts ($45) by Derek
Rose; derek-rose.com/us.
Boxer briefs
Two-ply mercerized Egyptiancotton boxer briefs ($89) by Bresciani;
customshirt1.com.
Boxer shorts (on the longer side)

Cotton boxer shorts ($48) by Sunspel;
sunspel.com.
up, they felt more like bike shorts than underwear, attening everything
I had in an uncomfortable jumble and turning my shorts into a sauna.
IT GETS EVEN SOFTER THAN COTTON. Like bamboo. Naturally wicking and
breathable, bamboo bers result in some of the softest underwear there
is. According to Sovell, anything with bamboo really is a luxury product.
He also suggests knits over wovens. The reason, quite simply, is availability. There are more knit options, giving designers new opportunities
to create even softer fabrics.
AND FINALLY, THE BEST UNDERWEAR ARE THE ONES YOURE LEAST AWARE OF.
Whatever style, color, or material you choose, you want something youre
comfortable in, both physically and emotionally. They dont bunch up or
ride up. They dont hold your bits and pieces out like theyre constantly
volunteering to answer a question. They dont do anything that you notice, actually. Just feel soft, breathe, support you, and look good for those
few moments of the day youre not wearing pants.
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1
A Fne Day n
New York
The designers, marketers, manufacturers, buyers, and all-purpose
men (and women) of style who dene how we dress now
PHOTOGRAPHS BY TAGH NADERZAD
1. Todd Snyder, designer,

Todd Snyder.
2. James, Liam, and
Sam Fayed, co-owners,
Bespoken.
3. Michael Bastian,
creative director,
Michael Bastian, and
his business partner,
Eugenia Gonzalez
Ruiz-Olloqui.
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4. Thom Browne, designer,

Thom Browne New
York.
5. Jeff Raider and Andy
Katz-Mayfield, co-CEOs
and founders, Harrys.
6. Eddy Chai and Paul
Birardi, co-owners,
Odin.
7. Mike and Alex Faherty,
twin brothers and
cofounders, Faherty.
8. Matt Breen, co-owner
and creative director,
Carson Street Clothiers.
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FOR T HE PA ST EIGHT YEA RS, the editors of The Big Black

Book have looked far and wide for inspiration, traveling to Europe for fashion shows and Asia for fashion shoots, yet we always return to the one city where every street is a runway
and every Instagram an editorial. This is New York City, the
epicenter of art and commerce for American style and home
to many of the men and women who design, manufacture,
market, and sell the clothes that dene how we dress now.
They hail from uptown and downtown, the big city and the
outer boroughs, the paved streets and the marbled showrooms, and each puts his own pragmatic, singular spin on inuences foreign and domestic. Yes, New York is a melting pot,
and its true that everybody comes from somewhere else. But
the important thing is theyre here. This is where mens style
lives, and this is what it looks like.
8
6
New York is its own

satellite, its own style
melting pot, with millions
of people from all over
the world.Michael Bastian
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NEW YORK
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G RO O M I N G BY LO S I FO R T H E WA L L G RO U P
1. John Varvatos, designer

and chairman, John
Varvatos.
2. Kevin Harter, vicepresident of mens
fashion direction,
Bloomingdales.
3. Evan Yurman, chief
design director, David
Yurman.
4. Frank Muytjens, head of
mens design, J. Crew.
5. Ben and Doug Burkman,
co-owners, Burkman
Bros.
SPRING 2014
6. Nick Wooster, creative

consultant.
7. George Esquivel, shoe
designer, Esquivel
Shoes.
8. David Neville and
Marcus Wainwright,
managing partners,
Rag & Bone.
9. Richard Chai,
designer.
10. Tommy Fazio, creative
director and
president, Project
Trade Fairs.
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6
New York is a
city of rebellion.
Its not about a
uniform, its not
about people
following
its about
creating their
own identity
through style.
John Varvatos
7
9
10
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ONLY AT PAUL STUART
PAULSTUART.COM
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PORTFOLIO ONE
West
Where the sky is big, the mountains are high,
and generations of pioneers and cowboys ne-tuned
the art of rugged, relaxed, purpose-driven style
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91
Durable, WorldMags.net
Practcal,
Wearable:
That s the
Western Way
People forget that western-style
clothing doesnt just mean tengallon hats and chaps. (Although
you should feel free to incorporate
those at your discretion, depending
on your romantic proclivities.) Even
back then, cowboys were on to
something, wearing durable, basic
clothes made of cotton and wool
staples of our era as much as theirs.
Cotton jacket ($1,325), cotton shirt ($525), and cotton trousers ($695) by Dolce & Gabbana; dolcegabbana.it. Fur felt fedora ($350) by Borsalino; jjhatcenter.com.
On her: Dress by Sportmax; boots by Churchs; bracelets by Vicki Turbeville.
92
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THIS PAGE: Cotton denim jacket ($595), cotton shirt ($250), and cotton trousers ($195) by Burberry Brit; burberry.com. On her: Sweater by Diesel; skirt by Calvin Klein Collection. OPPOSITE:
Cotton coat ($1,995) by Ralph Lauren Purple Label; ralphlauren.com. Cotton vest ($125), cotton chambray shirt ($125), and cotton jeans ($185) by Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren; macys.com.
Suede boots ($300) by Red Wing Heritage; zappos.com.
94
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SPRING 2014
WorldMags.net
New Looks,
Old Favortes
First worn by cowboys to keep the trail
dust off (and, in the case of the Texas
Rangers, to mark them as lawmen), the
classic duster was adopted by early
automobile passengers to protect their
clothing when they rode in their new
horseless carriages. Shorter modern
versions keep the chill out and the rain
off, but if thats still too long, consider a
streamlined denim jacket, beloved by
many a Marlboro Man.
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When to
tuck, not
tuck
When it comes to shirts, the
old rule of thumb still applies:
If its knitted (like a polo) or
has a at-bottom hem (like, say,
a Hawaiian shirt), dont tuck.
But if it has a tail, tuck it in. As
for your trousers, its purely
a matter of taste whether you
follow the old military tradition
of tucking them into your boots.
Unless, of course, its rainy or
muddy, in which case tucking is
heartily recommended.
THIS PAGE: Double-breasted cotton peacoat ($865) by Ovadia & Sons; mrporter.com. Cotton jeans ($295) and leather boots ($850) by Belstaff; 212-897-1880. Fur felt fedora ($350) by Borsalino; jjhatcenter.com. OPPOSITE: Cotton shirt ($165) by Thomas Pink; thomaspink.com. Cotton henley ($115) by Gant Rugger; gant.com. Wool trousers (part of suit, $1,395) by Calvin Klein Collection;
212-292-9027.
SPRING 2014
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97
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THIS PAGE: Four-button wool jacket ($1,698), wool vest ($698), linen-and-cotton shirt ($298), and cotton jeans ($368) by John Varvatos; johnvarvatos.com. Fur felt fedora ($350) by Borsalino; jjhatcenter.com. On her: Coat by Oscar de la Renta; shirt by Band of Outsiders; shoes by Churchs. OPPOSITE: Two-button cotton jacket ($1,280) and linen trousers ($419) by Etro; etro.com.
Cotton sweatshirt ($125) by Polo Ralph Lauren; ralphlauren.com. Cotton shirt ($69) by L. L. Bean Signature; llbeansignature.com.
98
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SPRING 2014
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THE
UBQUTOUS
AMERCAN
GARMENT
Even if you dont sweat in this
washed-out Ralph Lauren
sweatshirt, the V-pattern stitched
below the neck is a callout to times
when a sweatshirt was worn for
more than just comfort. Those
stitches would attach an extra
sweat-absorbing fabric right where
our bodies needed it most, and keep
the neck from stretching out. Now
they add a subtle touch of style.
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THE OLDEST
KND OF COOL
Since it was rst crafted by Irving Schott in
1928 (and named after Schotts favorite cigar),
the Perfecto motorcycle jacket created its
own category of cool. Everyone from Brando
to Springsteen has worn the iconic jacket
and looked good doing it. This modern version
retains the slim t and angled zipper, which is
designed to keep the jacket from bunching
whether youre sitting on a motorcycle
or in a station wagon.
THIS PAGE: Leather jacket ($3,800) and cotton shirt ($650) by Louis Vuitton; louisvuitton.com. OPPOSITE: Two-button cotton jacket ($298), cotton vest ($198), cotton shirt ($125), and cotton jeans
($98) by Polo Ralph Lauren; ralphlauren.com. Leather boots ($375) by Walk-Over; walkover.com. Fur felt fedora ($350) by Borsalino; jjhatcenter.com.
SPRING 2014
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101
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THIS PAGE: Coat by Oscar de la Renta; shirt by Band of Outsiders; ring by Vicki Turbeville. OPPOSITE: Cotton jacket ($1,120) by Prada; prada.com. Cotton shirt ($125) by J. Press York Street; jpressonline.com. Cotton jeans ($178) by AG Adriano Goldschmied; agjeans.com. Leather boots ($455) by Grenson; grenson.co.uk.
102
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SPRING 2014
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The Vrtues
of
Smplcty
The Amish dont get enough credit
for their style, which combines two
prominent and distinctly American
features: simple colors and pairings
weve been wearing since we got off the
Mayower; and work wear, the practical,
functional clothing we put on a few days
later. Turns out the best clothes are
fundamentally simple and extremely
useful. And if they can look good at the
same time, even better.
WorldMags.net
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RECIPE
FOOD OF THE WEST

A meal worthy of cowboy country
THE CHEF
THE STORY
Pepper-Seared HangerSteak-and-Lager Stew

INGREDIENTS
2 lbs hanger steak, cut into 2-inch

by -inch-thick slices
kosher salt to taste
1 Tbsp fresh black pepper, cracked
cup flour
4 Tbsp unsalted butter
4 slices bacon, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 medium yellow onions, thinly
sliced lengthwise
2 cups American dark beer,

like Brooklyn Lager
1 cup beef stock
2 Tbsp dark brown sugar
2 Tbsp apple-cider vinegar
3 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs tarragon
1 bay leaf
bread, for serving
I N ST RU C T I O N S
In a bowl, season beef with salt. Add flour and cracked peppercorns.
Toss to coat.
Heat 2 Tbsp butter in a 6-qt cast-iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat.
Add beef in batches, cooking and turning until browned, about 8 minutes.
Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Add bacon to Dutch oven. Cook until fat renders, about 8 minutes.
Add remaining butter, garlic, and onions. Cook until caramelized, about 30
minutes.
Add half the beer. Cook, scraping bottom of pot, until slightly reduced,
about 4 minutes.
Return beef to pot with remaining beer, stock, sugar, vinegar, thyme,
parsley, tarragon, bay leaf, and salt and pepper.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, covered, until beef
is tender, about 1 hours.
SERVES 4
104
Esqu i r Es Big Bl ack Book
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SPRING 2014
LO D G E, T E L LU R I D E, CO LO R A D O.
THE DISH
S H A W N B R I D G E S ; G A G E & G A G E P R O D U C T I O N S ; T H E FA I R M O N T H E R I TA G E P L A C E ; F R A N Z K L A M M E R
Palmers new cookbook, Remington Camp Cooking, is a collaboration with the famed gun manufacturer and
includes outdoor game and fireside cooking recipes.
P R O D U C E D B Y K AT E O L M A F O R B R Y D G E S M A C K I N N E Y. W O M E N S
Aureole
I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY PA U L D E S M O N D
Charle Palmer
S T Y L I N G BY N I N A S T E R G H I O U . H A I R A N D M A K E U P BY S O U H I L E E F O R J E D R O O T. S P E C I A L T H A N K S T O
This is the American version of a dish I was taught to make

by my mentor, Belgian chef Leon Dhaenens. I make it at
home for my four sons, my wife, friends, and anyone else
who enters the Palmer household for dinner. What really
gives this stew its distinctive character is the addition of
brown sugar and a fillip of cider vinegar, a sweet-sour
combination that plays beautifully against the caramelized
onions and rich beer. Serve with fresh, crusty bread that
will really stand up to the stew.
THE
WorldMags.net
Summer
NFORMATON
THE SUMMER UNIFORM

The gold standards that work in any situation. Except swimming.
[A] Blazer
Nearly everything you wear in the summer should be cotton, including your blazer. Its the most comfortable fabric to wear
in heat. Choose something unlined, with
a slightly tousled look. That way, when
you sweat in it (or toss it in the corner
to keep from sweating), itll still look basically the same as it did when you first
put it on. Two-button cotton-and-linen jacket ($675) by L.B.M. 1911; 616-957-3242.
[B] Shirt
A nice cotton shirt in a light color.
Avoid anything with a strong collar,
which will look too formal when layered with your jacket. Cotton shirt
($295) by Massimo Alba; barneys.com.
A USER S GUDE TO
THE YEAR S BEST
SEASON, wth
TPS ON DRESSNG,
GRLLNG, AND
GAMES NVOLVNG
BEANBAGS
THE WHITE
SHOE GUIDE
What to wear with what
Canvas bucks
Best with: A white suit.
By Esquivel ($875); store.
esquivelshoes.com.
Canvas sneakers
Best with: Chinos and a
sweatshirt. By Converse
($60); converse .com.
[C] Tie
Your tie should be the darkest aspect
of what you wear, adding just a touch of
gravitas when necessary. When unnecessary, take it off. The jacket, too. Silk knit
tie ($90) by Paul Stuart; paulstuart.com.
Deck shoes
[D] Trousers
Lightweight chinos will look dressier than jeans while keeping you just as
comfortable. Choose a color that is at
least two shades lighter or darker than
your jacket. Never let them match. Cotton khakis ($68) by Dockers; dockers.com.
[E] Shoes
Suede shoes add just the right touch of
casual to your outfit. They are sufficiently dressy while still comfortable. Just like
you, all summer long. Suede bucks ($350) by
Mark McNairy New Amsterdam; shop.markmcnairy.com.
Best with: Board shorts

and a T-shirt. By Sperry
Top-Sider ($100) ; sperrytopsider.com.
Driving loafers
Best with: Bermuda shorts and a blazer.
And confidence. By Tods
($445) ; tods. com.
AN ABRDGED HSTORY OF LGHTWEGHT SUTNG
I L L U S T R AT I O N BY P E T E R A R K L E
IN THE BEGINNING: After eating from the

Tree of Knowledge, Adam and Eve begin accessorizing with fig leaves.
production of cotton, making it cheaper and

more widely available.
1907: Fresco fabrica lightweight materiEARLY 1800 S : Lightweight wool, including
200 B . C .: Although it is not as fine and light as

the material we know today, silk becomes widely used in clothing, as it is preferable to yak hide
or whatever the hell people wore back then.
merino, cashmere, and vicua, is first put into summer suits. Wool absorbs and evaporates
moisture better than many materials, making it a surprisingly comfortable choice in the
summer.
1700 S : Early versions of the modern suit,

usually made from wool or very coarse cotton,
appear in various parts of the British Empire.
1794: The invention of the cotton gin improves
ly disseminated to the United States.
al made from high-twisted wool with a porous

plain weave to keep it cool, breathable, and
wrinkle-resistantis patented by Britains Martin Sons & Co.
1930: Neapolitan tailor Vincenzo Attolini cre-
LATE 1800 S : Lightweight fabrics like linen,
ates the first unstructured jacket, removing all

excess fabric and nonessential elements.
madras, and seersucker are used by British soldiers stationed in India. The soldiers bring the
textiles home with them, and they are eventual-
With thanks to mens-wear-design professor MarkEvan Blackman, Fashion Institute of Technology.
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105
THE
NFORMATON
WorldMags.net
N CASE OF RAN
Three options to protect you from summers less-than-sunny moments
In Praise of
the T-shirt and
Blazer
AND-POLYURETHANE MACKINTOSH ($865) BY HERNO;

DAVIDECENCI.COM.
T H E WAT E R P RO O F S U I T
Isaias Aquaspider suit is made of very fine, 100
percent merino wool. Its lightweight, thus perfect
for summer heat, and has a little bit of stretch, thus
perfect for accommodating barbecues. It also has a
thin Teflon coating, which makes it fully waterproof.
So the next time a storm sneaks up on you, youll be
ready. And well-dressed. TWO-BUTTON WOOL-ANDSILK AQUALIGHT SUIT ($3,795) BY ISAIA; NEIMANMARCUS.
COM. COTTON SHIRT ($325) BY HAMILTON SHIRTS;
HAMILTONSHIRTS.COM. SILK TIE ($150) BY PAUL SMITH; 646613-3060. LEATHER SHOES ($550) BY BALLY; BALLY.COM.
T H E C L A S S I C S O LU T I O N
For those who would rather dress without reading
the weather report, there is always the oldfashioned solution: an umbrella. This handmade
windproof variety from the rainwear craftsmen at
Stutterheim has a classic silhouette and an easyto-grip rubber handle, as opposed to the more
traditional wood or horn.
UMBRELLA ($145) BY STUTTERHEIM RAINCOATS;
STUTTERHEIM.COM.
THE OH SHIT GUIDE TO
S U M M E R S W E AT I N G
YOUVE SWEAT THROUGH . . . YOUR SOCKS
What you can do: Change socks. If you dont have a spare pair, wipe the sweat off with paper towels and finish the day
sockless. Or, if you happen to have dryer sheets around (and why wouldnt you?), put them in your shoes and they will
dry out the moisture and help reduce any stench.
How to avoid such issues in the future: If it really bothers you, roll an antiperspirant on your foot in the morning. Itll
block sweat glands just as it does under your arms.
YOUVE SWEAT THROUGH . . . YOUR SHIRT

What you can do: Run your wrist under cold water or apply a cold wet towel (or can of soda) to your forehead to lower
your body temperature and prevent further sweating.
How to avoid such issues in the future: Use an antiperspirant with aluminum chloride to block your pores. The most
effective is Drysol, which youll need to get via a doctors prescription or online through a Canadian drugstore.
AND
SU MMER S
LEASE HATH
ALL TOO
SHO RT A
DATE.
WLLAM
SHAKESPEARE,
SONNET XV
Its too hot for

words /
Why bother with
conversation /
Dont lets talk or
even walk /
If you wanna make
love, okay.
Billie Holiday,
Its Too Hot for Words
YOUVE SWEAT THROUGH . . . YOUR TOUPEE

What you can do: Still have those dryer sheets? Stick one under there.
How to avoid such issues in the future: Hide the toupee. Wear a hat.
106
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SPRING 2014
Add protection without adding heat with a summer

Mackintoshthe classic raincoat made by fusing
rubber between layers of cotton. Italian label
Herno crafts its version with no stitching and taped
seams to make it 100 percent waterproof. COTTON-
To the old-school among us, wearing a T-shirt under a blazer is strictly

a no-no. It smacks too much of Miami
Vice. But style rules are in a constant
state of ux, and never more so than
now, when the high-low mix of sartorial pieces and sportswear is giving men the option to dress well while
remaining comfortable on their own
terms. Just be sure to do it right:
Your T-shirt should be cotton, clean,
and devoid of album art or slogans. It
should t close and, unless it falls just
below the waistband of your trousers,
should be tucked in. The jacketunlined and made of cotton, linen, or a
blendshould contrast clearly with
the pants, so as not to be confused
with a suit. Because a T-shirt should
never be worn with a suit, no matter how tightly youve embraced this
high-low concept. Some things should
be left to Crockett and Tubbs.
SUMMER
T H E B B BWorldMags.net
SWMSUT SELECTOR
THE BEST
THE VISUAL ARGUMENT
WATER-SIDE
CLOTHING IS NOT
ALWAYS SWIM
TRUNKS
Do you live in Europe?

NO
YES
Do you live in a Portland?
YES
NO
Do you consider yourself

fashionable?
YES
Are you under 25?
YES
Do you like your body?
Athletic?
Do other people
like your body?
YES
NO
YES
NO
NO
Hockney, D.
THE SUMMER
BODY
NO
NO
Gable, C.
YES
E X PEC TATON
CA L CUL AT OR
A pain-free, mathematical way
to know how uncomfortable you
should be when you remove your
shirt at the beach
1. What body type are you starting with?

Navy SEAL (+10 points)
Elephant seal (10)
2. How much time do you have before your shirt will come off?
A few months (+10)
A few weeks (+5)
A few days (0)
Between now and lunch (5)
3. How often do you exercise?
Every day (+10)
Once or twice a week (+3)
Never (5)
(with T-shirt)
SWIMSUITS FROM LEFT: NAUTICA ($70); NAUTICA.COM. SPEEDO ($36); SPEEDOUSA.COM. ORLEBAR BROWN
($280); ORLEBARBROWN.COM. CHARLIE BY MATTHEW ZINK ($195); CHARLIEBYMZ.COM. ORLEBAR BROWN
($280); ORLEBARBROWN.COM.
Throwing Shade
A BRIEF AND ILLUMINATING LOOK AT

SUMMER HATS
5. Who will you be going to the

beach with?
My family (+5)
A few friends (+3)
Coworkers (1)
That guy from Thor (10)
BASEBALL CAP
BUCKET HAT
PANAMA HAT
VISOR
YOU ARE: A man who

needs only a brief look
in the mirror to feel
comfortable. BY GENTS
YOU ARE: Young and

hip, at least at heart, or
possibly RG3. BY PAUL
YOU ARE: On vacation, likely smoking a cigar, and likely not wearing enough sunscreen.
YOU ARE:
From the South.
($49); RONHERMAN.COM.
SMITH ($95); FREDSEGAL.

COM.
4. How much do you like food?

That Gandhi was kind of a glutton (+5)
I eat my share, but rarely overdo
it (+3)
I could stand to cut back a little (0)
I would eat this magazine if I had
ketchup (5)
BY BORSALINO ($1,250); JJHATCENTER.COM.
WorldMags.net
SCORE
30 to 40: You should be very comfortable at the beach.
0 to 29: You should be very comfortable at the beach.
Less than 0: You should be very comfortable at the beach. Seriously.
Youre there to have fun. People can
always look away.
107
THE
nformaTon
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The Best Things to Do for Your Face

(Other than get out of the sun)
A S C I E N T I F I C LO O K AT A N T I AG I N G AG E N T S A N D H O W T H E Y W O R K
CO E N Z Y M E Q 1 0
(CoQ10)
Binds to waste
products and pushes
them to the surface
to shed. Helps repair
damaged skin cells.
Found in: Nivea for
Men Energy lotion
($9; niveamenusa.
com)
P E PT I D E S
Stimulate production
of collagen, a protein
that increases skin
density.
Found in: Jack Black
Protein Booster
Eye Rescue ($40;
getjackblack.com)
P O LY P H E N O L S
Reduce redness and
the swelling that
can result from
environmental stress
(sun, pollution, etc.).
Found in: Caudalie
SOS thirst-quenching
serum ($48;
us.caudalie.com)
N I AC I N A M I D E
Better known as
vitamin B3; helps
even skin tone
and reduce the
appearance of fine
lines.
Found in: Bliss
Labs Essential
Active Serum ($160;
blissworld.com)
RETINOL
Causes old cells to
release their grip
on the new ones
and slough off.
Stimulates formation
of new cells.
Found in:
Neutrogena Rapid
Wrinkle Repair ($21;
neutrogena.com)
A L P H A - H Y D ROX Y
AC I D S ( A H A s )
Help skin cells shed
more uniformly.
Keep pores clear.
Promote an even skin
tone.
Found in: La
Prairie Skin Caviar
Luxe cream ($410;
shoplaprairie.com)
SUMMER FEET
Now that theyre no longer hidden in your shoes, your
feet deserve a little extra attention
THE BBB POP QUZ:
Summer is a time for relaxing.

For giving your body and mind a
break. So go ahead: Skip a day or
two of shaving. As long as it looks
purposeful and cultivated, a little stubble shows that your face
is as relaxed as your spirit feels.
Just remember: You will most
likely be spending the summer
with a person you care about
a person whose face you find
yourself close to on a frequent
basis, who doesnt want the irritation stubble can cause. Traditional conditioners and beard
oils dont work well on shorter
beards. You need sandpaper. Seriously. Rub the Soft Goats stubble-softening pad ($12 for a box
of three; thesoftgoat.com) over
your chin and cheeks to smooth
the sharp-cut edges of your
whiskers. You might feel a little silly using them, but youll also feel soft and smooth. And for
her, thats a good thing.
108
N A I L C L I P P E RS
Dont round your toenails. Cut them
straight across to prevent ingrown
nails, especially on your big toes.
By Tweezerman (part of set, $9);
tweezerman.com.
P OW D E R
If its hot outside, its even hotter in
your shoes. Sprinkle a little powder
on your feet after the shower to
keep them dry. By Jack Black ($19);
getjackblack.com.
In the season of buzz cuts, a few

questions to ask yourself before
firing up the clippers
Do you have a narrow face?

Other than your eyes, do you have
particularly large features?
Do you have any noticeable dents?
Thats not psoriasis, is it?
FO OT S C RU B
The rough exfoliants remove dead
skin cells and reduce calluses. Or just
use a pumice stone. By Neals Yard
Remedies ($25); us.nyorganic.com.
Do you consider yourself

sun sensitive?
B RU S H
Another way to remove dead skin
or clean the shower. By Redecker
($14); fellowbarber.com.
Do you prefer to spend a lot

of money on haircuts?
Do you plan on keeping
a full beard?
LOT I O N
Rub on a little lotion as soon as you
get out of the shower, when your
pores are open. By Molton Brown
($27); moltonbrown.com.
WorldMags.net
Are you opposed to the idea of

incredibly fast showers?
(If you answered yes to one or more
question, you may not want to
shave your head.)
SPRING 2014
I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY P E T E R A R K L E
SANDPAPER
FOR YOUR
BEARD
WLL YOU LOOK

GOOD WTH A
S H AV E D H E A D ?
SUMMER
WorldMags.net
To: The
SO YOU
WANT TO TRY How
Game of Summer
A N EW SPORT
Everything you need to haveand knowbefore you get started
Stand-up paddleboarding
Kiteboarding
t h e h u r r e d m a n S G U D E T O E X E R C S E
with short periods of rest.
A 15-minute HIIT workout has
been shown to be more effective
than 60 minutes of steady-state
running. So the next time you
go for a run, sprint for one minute, then walk for 30 seconds; repeat until nauseated. Or do 20
seconds of burpees, push-ups,
box jumps, or jumping jacks, fol-
MATERIALS
1. Two quarter sheets of plywood.
Spend the extra dollar for the
prefinished wood so you dont
have to sand them yourself. The
smoother the surface, the better
the beanbags will slide.
2. Four standard 8-foot two-byfours (that youll be cutting into
four 48-inch pieces, four 21-inch
pieces, and four 11 -inch pieces).
3. A circular saw.
4. One box each of 3-inch deck
screws and 1 -inch deck screws.
5. Some way to cut a circle out of
the wood. A jigsaw will work, or,
for an easier option, spend the
$20 for a 6-inch hole sawbasically a big hollow bit that fits a
standard drill.
ASSEMBLY
1. Using 3-inch screws, fasten together two 48-inch segments
of two-by-four and two 21-inch
segments to form a rectangle.
Repeat.
2. Affix the plywood to the top
of the rectangle with 1 -inch
screws.
3. On each piece of plywood,
make a mark 9 inches down from
the top and 12 inches in from each
side. That will be the center of
your hole. Use a compass to draw
a 6-inch circle around it, then
pray for steady heads as you cut
that circle out with a jigsaw. Or
just use the hole saw you wisely
invested in.
4. The 11 -inch pieces will be
used as legs. Screw them inside
the upper corners of each board.
Horseshoes
If youre trying to lose

weight or boost cardiovascular health,
one of the best ways
to do it quickly is to pack more
effort into the time you have.
Which is why you should know
about High Intensity Interval
Training (HIIT). HIIT is any type
of intense activity interspersed
Cornhole (or, in more rened

parts of the country, Beanbag
Toss) is even more fun when
you build it yourself
lowed by 10 seconds of rest for

4 minutes. Using HIIT, you immediately push your body into a
fat-burning zone that stimulates
production of human growth
hormone up to 450 percent. And
your body stays in a high-calorie-burning state for up to 24
hours after exercise. Try it. Youll
hate it.
WorldMags.net
USE
Buy regulation (16-ounce) beanbags. Find three friends. Set the
boxes 21 feet apart and put two
people at each. Choose a side to
go first. Each player alternates
beanbag throws. A bag in the hole
is worth three points. A bag that
rests on the board is worth one.
Subtract the lower-scoring teams
score from the higher-scoring
teams for that rounds score. The
other two players take their turn.
Alternate sides until one team
reaches 21. Best of three.
109
THE
NFORMATON
WorldMags.net
HOW TO
BE THE MASTER OF YOUR OWN GRLL C A N G R L L
THNGS
A MAN
Theres a reason men stand guard over their grills: Fire is alive, wind is unpredictable, adjustments are always necessary. Plus, it makes you look knowledgeable and very busy. Since barbecuing is often a group
affair that involves more than one thing cooking, it takes vigilant timing as well as a tolerance for preferences. You are more short-order cook than chef, handling requests for blackened dogs, rare steaks,
and chicken thats not too burny. For maximum grill efficiency, sanity, and success, the first step is to
learn to work your grill in three cooking zones: hot, medium, and low. Then you can grill anything. Steaks.
Chops. Corn. Bacon. Clams. Pineapple. Anything.
For charcoal grills, arrange coals in sections: a high

pile for high heat, a medium pile for medium heat,
and leave the third zone bare. (The food above it will
be slow-cooked by ambient heat.)
Fish
Shellfish
Corn
THE HEAT ZONES AND WHAT TO DO WITH THEM

Low heat
(covered grill)
Hamburgers
Chicken
HOW TO DO IT
For propane grillingif youre that kind of person
adjust the burner controls to three temperatures.
If you have a two-burner grill, suspend a rack above
the grill to create the low zone.
Steak
Sausage
Moderate heat
Big heat
FOR EVEN COOKING

6NLQRQFKLFNHQSLHFHVSRUN
FKRSVVDXVDJHVFRUQRQWKH
FRELQKXVNILVKLQFOXGLQJ
shellfish (lay right on the grill
theyre done when they open)
FOR SEARING
7KLQVWHDNVYHJHWDEOHVVOLFH
HPWKLQEXUJHUVPHGLXPUDUH
NHEDEVPD\QHHGWREHPRYHG
to moderate fire to finish cookLQJSRXQGHGFKLFNHQFXWOHWV
Hot dogs
FOR COOKING ALL
THE WAY THROUGH
/DUJHURDVWVDQ\WKLQJZUDSSHG
LQEDFRQSODQNURDVWHGILVK
WRXJKHUFXWVRIPHDWOLNHEULVNHWULEVZKROHFKLFNHQV
spatchcocked (cut so they lay
flatask your butcher)
Pork chops
Asparagus
Peppers
Zucchini
Mushrooms
Eggplant
Place a metal drip pan in your

low-heat zone. Keep water in
it during cooking, which keeps
drippings from burning and
adds moisture so large cuts
wont dry out.
Potatoes
Bread
. . . AND A
F E W H E R E A L LY
SHOULDN T
SpaghettiOs
Tip: Touch your food. No matter how sophisticated your grilling rig, youre still cooking over a primitive heat
source. Use your instincts: Consider recipe timing a guideline and rely on how something looks, smells, and even
feels (when you poke it with your finger) to determine if its ready.
Roman candles
The EXTRA 10 Percent
BOURBON BARRELS: Its the smoke. Thats why we cook on a grill, isnt it? The smoke makes the food taste good.
What if you could make the smoke taste better? You can toss wood chips on top of hot coalshardwoods like apple
and cherry work well. But look at this: sections of old bourbon barrels ($14; bourbonbarrelfoods.com), conveniently
sized to fit your grill. The wood smells of bourbon and adds an intoxicating sweetness to whatever youre grilling.
SALT BLOCKS: Mined in the Himalayas, salt blocks ($35; saltworks.us) provide the perfect cooking surface. Just put
one on your grill, coat it with a little olive oil, and place anything from steak to brussels sprouts right on its salty
exterior. As your meal cooks, the salt block infuses it with flavorand the perfect sear. You can even use the block as
a serving tray.
110
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Hot Pockets
Eggs
Western black rhino
Velveeta
Aerosol cans
SPRING 2014
I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY J O E M C K E N D RY
Baby food
Two grilling tricks to immediately
up your game
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THE HOME OYSTER ROAST
SUMMER
Overrated
Summer
Delights
E V E RY T H I N G YO U N E E D TO K N O W TO H O S T O N E
1. Pick a few different

types of oysterssome
small, some plump, some
mild, and some briny. (A
couple safe recommendations: Island Creeks from
New England, and Kumamotos from the Pacific.)
Buy 8 to 12 per guest.
2. Clean any dirt and sand

from the shells by running them under cold water and scrubbing gently. Avoid overscrubbing,
which can break the shells
and cause the oysters to
spoil faster.
3. Dig a pit, a two-and-ahalf-foot square that is one

foot deep. Build a fire in it,
and let the fire burn down
to the coals. Place a sturdy
metal sheet over the coals
and carefully put a single
layer of oysters on it.
4. Soak a towel or tarp in

water and cover the oysters. Allow them to steam
for about ten minutes, or
until the shells begin to
open. Remove them from
the heat before they fully
open to prevent overcooking. Consume.
HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER

H A L F T H E F U N O F O Y S T E R S I S S H U C K I N G W H A T Y O U E A T. J U S T B E S U R E Y O U R G U E S T S K N O W
W H AT T H E Y R E D O I N G . T E L L T H E M T H I S :
Sun tea
The act of basking
Day baseball in
southern states
Riding in a
convertible
Deep-fried novelties at the state-fair
food court
A swinger cruise
Pontoon boats
Mojitos
Honeydew melon
Two-person
hammocks
Put the oyster on the table. Grab a towel and use it to apply rm pressure on the
oyster. Use an oyster knife to pry into the
hinge (where the shells connect).
Twist the knife until you hear a pop. Angle the knife up and move it across the
shell to cut the connecting muscle.
Use your thumbs to open the shell completely. Add hot sauce, lemon, or vinegar.
Try not to slurp.
With thanks to Tony Chittum, executive chef of Iron Gate in Washington, D. C., and Rowan Jacobsen, author of A Geography of
Oysters: The Connoisseurs Guide to Oyster Eating in North America.
Air thick with the

smell of fresh-cut
grass
Picnicking with
the pops
The Tools of the Barbecue

E V E RY T H I N G YO U N E E D. E XC E PT T H E A P RO N .
Grill
Traditionalists will always prefer the basic Weber, but a good gas grill has its own advantages, like the ability to
start cooking less than 30 minutes after you decide to light it up. Pick something made of grade-304 stainless
steel; its much less likely to rust. (An easy test: A magnet will not stick to it.) Youll want at least three burners so
that you can vary your heat zones (see left) and a rotisserie attachment. The side burner can come in handy for
sauces and glazes, but its not necessary.
Utensils
The most important thing is the handle. Look for something sturdy and at least a foot long to protect your hands
when youre working with really high heat. Youll want a fork (for big pieces of meat), tongs (for wings and other
small foods), a large spatula (for more delicate items like fish), and a brush (for glazes), though a large spoon will
work just as well.
Glove
Convenient for turning shish kebabs or pulling pork off a roast.
Drink
A beer will always suffice. Or try a Lynchburg Lemonade: Mix equal parts Jack Daniels, triple sec, and sour mix
with some Sprite. Repeat until October.
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111
THE
NFORMATON
SUMMER
WorldMags.net
The Romantic
Mans
Guide to Getaways
H O W E V E R W E L L YO U R E D O I N G I N YO U R R E L AT I O N S H I P, YO U C A N
A LW AY S D O B E T T E R . H A P P Y C A N A LW AY S B E H A P P I E R .
FOR THE
Weekend
1. On Thursday afternoon, check the weather.

If its going to be a nice weekend in your general vicinity, proceed.
2. Pick a place somewhere between two and
three hours away, so you can leave work early,
pick her up, and be there by eight.
3. Book a B&B. Of course you dont want to sit
in a sunroom and have breakfast with some
other couple, but a surprise trip demands a
B&B. A B&B will please her. And always call.
Dont reserve online. The person you talk to
on the phone is more than likely going to be
there when you arrive. Hell want to please
you as soon as possible.
4. Call her up and say: Lets get away. You deserve it. Establish that this trip is a gift. But a
modest one.
5. Lower expectations. On the way there, say
things like You know, its not a fancy hotel or
anything. Or Its probably going to be dead in
Mystic this time of year. The worse you set it
up, the more magical the weekend.
FOR THE
Week
1. First, make sure she can take the time off

from work. A surprise trip is much less romantic when youre alone.
2. Scout airfares. There are plenty of last-minute deals to be had, starting about a week in
advance. Its okay to be ambitious, but this
probably isnt the time to book a trip that involves a ten-hour flight each way. As a general
rule, try not to exceed five hours of flight
time. (Exception: Scandinavia.)
3. When youve settled on a few destinations
that wont break the bank, take a look at the
weather. A little rain is okay. Seven days of it is
depressing.
4. Do not choose Detroit. Yet.
5. Give her a heads-up a couple days before so
she can arrange to be away from work and
think about what she wants to pack.
6. Speaking of packing, tell her where youre
going ahead of time. A surprise destination
seems like a nice idea, but its only going to
last until she gets to the airport anyway.
The Stare Test

Its summer, the sun is out, its hotall conditions that frequently lead to women wearing smaller amounts of clothing. Your instinct
is to appreciate. But can you give in to it? A
checklist of circumstances.
She is your wife or girlfriend (20)

You are wearing sunglasses (2)
She is with her husband or boyfriend (10)
You are with your wife or girlfriend (10)
You are single (5)
She is single, and you know this because you
are at a singles event (15)
She is pictured in a magazine that you
are reading (10)
Add up your points, then disregard the total. No
matter the situation, no man stares. He appreciates in passing. Act like youve been there before.
POSSIBLE DESTINATION: Saugatuck, Michigan.

A mecca of art on the picturesque coast of
Lake Michigan, less than two hours from Chicago. Spend the weekend sailing, walking
along sand dunes, and dining at Saugatucks
excellent restaurants. Stay at the Wickwood
Inn (wickwoodinn.com), a B&B with plenty of
charm for her and enough privacy for you.
POSSIBLE DESTINATION: Pacuare River Lodge

(pacuareriverlodge.com). Located in the Costa
Rican rain forest, this luxury hotel is only accessible by 4x4, horse, or a rafting trip
through class III and IV rapids. Its romantic
and isolated, deep in a lush jungle full of monkeys and ocelots. Beaches, hiking trails, and
snorkeling areas are located nearby.
B Y T H E N U M B E R S : A B B B L O O K AT R O A D T R P S
A Man on a Picnic
Minimum number of miles

before you can consider your
car ride a road trip: 15 0
Maximum number of driving
hours per day (sane): 5
Maximum number of driving
112
hours per day (other): 1 0

Optimal number of days: 5
Optimal number of people
per car: 2
Optimal number of
children: 0
Longest acceptable detour, in minutes, to see
something Frommers says
is interesting: 20
Longest acceptable detour, in minutes, for a
restaurant raved about
on roadfood.com: 1 0
Maximum number of
unplanned stops per day
(not including bathroom
breaks): 3
Seconds you should take to
consider stopping at that
weird place you saw on a
billboard: 5
Seconds you will regret
having stopped: 0
Winning score in Punch
Bug: 1 0
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Picnic basket.
No one can be romantic when pulling cheeses out of
a grocery bag.
Blanket. One
mans spot of
grass is another
animals toilet.
Bluetooth speaker. When there
arent crickets,
youll need to
provide your own
ambience.
Corkscrew. In
case you still look
down on (or didnt
think ahead with)
a screw top.
Assorted meats
and cheeses.
Velveeta doesnt
count.
SPRING 2014
Essential gear for a nonessential activity
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PORTFOLIO TWO
East
Make that the Far East, where the difference
between drenched in sweat and comfortably steamy comes
down to a well-chosen lightweight suit
photographs by Phl Poynter
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113
The
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Many
Whys of
White
Men have been wearing
white for centuries, and not
just because of its ability
to enhance a less-thanswarthy pallor. The Bible says
wearing white shows that
you are happy (Ecclesiastes
9:8, if youre following along).
That other bible, Esquires
Encyclopedia of 20th Century
Mens Fashions, calls the
white suit as romantic a
garment as any man ever
put on his back. And theres
always the best reason of all:
because you want to.
THIS PAGE: Double-breasted cotton-and-polyester jacket ($3,780) and trousers ($1,323) by Berluti; 212-439-6400. Cotton shirt ($135) by Ernest Alexander; ernestalexander.com. Silk tie ($170) by
Jil Sander; jilsander.com. Steel Column-Wheel chronograph ($3,300) by Longines; shop.us.longines.com. Beaver felt hat ($895) by Nick Fouquet; nickfouquet.com. OPPOSITE: Three-button
viscose suit ($3,630) by Bottega Veneta; bottegaveneta.com. Cotton shirt ($325) by Hamilton Shirts; hamiltonshirts.com. Silk tie ($165) by Paul Smith Accessories; paulsmithusa.com.
114
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SPRING 2014
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When a WorldMags.net
Suit Is
Not a Suit
Even the most formal of men have days
when they need a bit of gravitas but cant
imagine putting on a suit. Luckily, theres a
simple summer solution: separates. As long
as your colors are light and similar and your
textures are distinctly varied, an outfit of
separates will always look nearly as smart as
a suit. The hotter it is, the more important
texture becomes, as an open weave gives an
impression of thickness without stifling your
flow. Your air flow, that is.
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THIS PAGE: Two-button cotton-and-linen jacket ($695) and linen vest ($250) by L.B.M. 1911; 212-564-9000 or 310-826-4500. Linen shirt ($228) by Paul Stuart; paulstuart.com. OPPOSITE: Three-button
linen jacket ($5,900) by Cesare Attolini; 646-707-3006. Cotton shirt ($470) by Marc Jacobs; marcjacobs.com. Silk tie ($165) by Burberry London; burberry.com. Cotton trousers ($430) by Salvatore Ferragamo; 866-337-7242. Leather-and-suede shoes ($595) by Ovadia & Sons; ikkon.com. Steel Vintage 123 Sport Heritage watch ($3,400) by Bell & Ross; bellross.com. Cotton socks ($28)
by Pantherella; nordstrom.com. Bracelets ($55 and $45) by Caputo & Co.; caputoandco.com.
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Embrace
the
Crumple
Unless you remain completely
motionless in a well-air-conditioned
room, wrinkled linen is a fact of
life, so you might as well embrace
it. Choose something made of a
mlange of fibers, one that allows
you to see texture and grain, and
you get the added bonus of a bit
of camouflage, hiding any unsightly
sweat and creases. The benefit of
wearing a fabric that always looks
lived in is that you can, well, live in it.
THIS PAGE: Three-button three-piece linen suit ($1,895) and silk tie ($125) by Polo Ralph Lauren; ralphlauren.com. Cotton shirt ($295) by Massimo Alba; barneys.com. Steel Safari chronometer ($3,250) by Ralph Lauren Fine Watchmaking; ralphlaurenwatches.com. Felt fedora by Lock & Co. Hatters; lockhatters.co.uk. OPPOSITE: Double-breasted cotton-wool-and-silk suit ($7,469)
by Kiton; kiton.it. Cotton shirt ($395) by Isaia; saks.com. Silk tie ($140) by Paul Stuart; paulstuart.com. Leather shoes ($525) by Churchs; church-footwear.com. Leather duffel bag ($2,750) by
Mark Cross; barneys.com.
SPRING 2014
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FROM LEFT: Two-button cotton-and-linen suit ($1,790) by Salvatore Ferragamo; 866-337-7242. Cotton shirt ($175) by Ovadia & Sons; ovadiaandsons.com. Silk knit tie ($225) by Burberry London; burberry.com. // Two-button linen-and-cotton jacket ($1,250) and cotton shirt ($350) by Massimo Alba; barneys.com. Silk tie ($125) by John Varvatos; johnvarvatos.com. Cotton trousers
($250) by L.B.M. 1911; 206-622-5760. // Three-button silk-and-linen suit ($2,995) and silk knit tie ($205) by Ermenegildo Zegna; zegna.com. Cotton shirt ($695) by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture;
zegna.com. Silk pocket square ($49) by Tommy Hilfiger; 212-223-1824.
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Respect
the Tie
Men have developed a terrible
habit of late: When the
temperature rises, one of our
first urges is to open our shirt
collar and loosen the tie
and thus lose a good chunk
of formality. But it doesnt
need to be this way, especially
if youre wearing a cotton,
silk, or loose-knit tie, which
doesnt trap heat nearly as
much as wool or fine weaves.
The next time you feel warm,
think about the amount of
actual discomfort your tie
adds to your situation. Now
think about how good you
look buttoned up. We know
youll make the right decision.
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Seersuckers
Competition
When it comes to lightweight summer cloths,
seersucker and linen may get most of the
attention, but theres another classic textile that
deserves some space in your closet. Introduced
in the early 20th century by Italian Louis
Westenra Sambon for British soldiers stationed
in the tropics, Solaro is a two-toned cotton with
a very fine weave, designed to reflect the suns
rays. The fabric owes its nuanced yet distinctive
colorful sheen to a combination of classically
colored warp threads (typically in brown) paired
with intensely colored weft threads (often red).
So youll stand out. Subtly.
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THIS PAGE: Two-button cotton suit ($2,180) and silk pocket square ($70) by Canali; canali.it. Cotton shirt ($228) by Phineas Cole; paulstuart.com. Silk tie ($140) by Paul Stuart; paulstuart.com. Wooland-nylon socks ($28) by J. M. Dickens; hassismensshop.com. OPPOSITE: Three-button cotton-and-silk suit ($1,595) by Belvest; belvest.com. Cotton shirt ($350) by Massimo Alba; barneys.com. Silk tie
($125) by John Varvatos; johnvarvatos.com. Suede shoes ($430) by Grenson; grenson.co.uk. Beaver felt hat ($795) by Nick Fouquet; nickfouquet.com.
SPRING 2014
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123
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RECIPE
FOOD OF THE EAST

A hot meal to cool you down
THE CHEF
THE STORY
THE DISH
INGREDIENTS
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled

and coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic
2 lbs lean lamb, preferably leg,
cut into 1- to 1 -inch cubes
cup plain low-fat yogurt, whisked
smooth
2 tsp salt
juice of 1 lemon
3 Tbsp vegetable oil
2 dried bay leaves
1 2-inch cinnamon stick
5 whole green cardamom pods

3 whole cloves
2 onions, finely chopped
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
tsp cayenne pepper
1 Tbsp Kashmiri or Hungarian
paprika
3 or 4 dried red chiles, coarsely
ground
2 cups water
3 Tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped
Using a mortar and pestle or mini food processor, grind the ginger and
garlic to a fine paste.
In a bowl, combine the lamb, yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, salt, and
lemon juice and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for
30 minutes to 2 hours.
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat and fry the bay
leaves, cinnamon, cardamom pods, and cloves, stirring continuously, until
fragrant and darker in color, 1 to 2 minutes.
Add the onions and fry until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes.
Add the coriander, cumin, cayenne, paprika, and chiles and cook until well
combined.
Add the marinated meat and cook, stirring, until the meat turns light brown,
4 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high, add the water, and bring to a boil.
Lower the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is cooked through
and the gravy is thick, 20 to 30 minutes, adding extra water if needed.
Adjust the seasoning and stir in the cilantro.
SERVES 4 to 6
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SPRING 2014
P R O D U C E D BY M I C H E L L E P I A Z Z A F O R S E R L I N A S S O C I AT E S . G R O O M I N G BY
Khannas new cookbook, Return to the Rivers, is a collection of recipes and photos gathered on his travels
through the Himalayas.
Vkas Khanna
Junoon, New York City
R U B E N A N T O N O V. P R O P S T Y L I N G A N D S E T D E S I G N BY S H A W N PAT R I C K A N D E R S O N F O R B R I D G E A RT I S T S .
In 1984, when I was 12, my family went to northern India for

my cousins wedding. In one of my first and most memorable
cooking lessons, I stood next to the vasta waza, or master
chef, of the wedding feast, observing the rhythm and secrets
of preparing Rogan Joshtruly one of the most famous
Indian lamb dishes. I could tell that cooking, for him, was a
ceremony and a passion, and he passed this spirit on to me,
along with his recipes and age-old cooking secrets. I still
make this dish regularly at my home and at Junoon.
WorldMags.net
THE
NFORMATON
SHOPPNG
W H E T H E R AT T H E
STORE OR ON THE
COUCH, HOW TO MAKE
THE MOST OF YOUR
TME AND MONEY
WHEN BUYNG NEW
CLOTHES
T HE B R E A K D O W N
The BBB Decider:
What Type of Shopping Is Best for Me?
How to divvy up your budget,

whatever it may be
What is your budget?
Less than $100

per year
$101 to $5,000
per year
$5,001+
per year
safe colors and a fun one you picked

with your eyes closed); dress shirts;
ties. Cotton chinos ($68 each) by
Dockers; dockers.com.
Good
for you.
Do you wear
mainstream
brands?
YES
Thanks.
NO
YES
Thrift shops,
generous
relatives
Go to the
brands'
stores or
Web sites
20%: Indulgence: Something unstructured and unlined. Two-button cotton jacket ($795) by L.B.M. 1911;
616-957-3242.
Do you enjoy
leaving the house?
Do you like
expensive
tailoring?
YES
10%: Outerwear: A nice trench.

Maybe a raincoat. Cotton trench
coat ($225) by Banana Republic;
bananarepublic.com.
NO
NO
Try a
specialty
boutique or
Saks
Mr Porter
15%: Shoes: Including a good pair

you spent enough on that you're
too scared to wear them in the rain.
Leather shoes ($725) by Church's;
church-footwear.com.
5%: Belts, socks, and underwear.

Also: Ascots, tie clips, miscellaneous
paraphernalia.
t He a dVa N taGe Of cred t . . .
. . . a Ndd t He uuNdeN a bl e P O W er Of c a S H
Lost your receipt for something you want to

return? If you paid cash, youre stuck with
store credit for the lowest sale price, or
sometimes nothing at all. But if you paid with
a credit card, the store can often look up your
purchase by swiping your cardand offer
you a full refund. And if you use an American
Express card, when you cant return an item
to the store and its been fewer than 90 days since you bought it, the company will refund the purchase price up to $300.
Nothing works
works on
on the
the front
front end
end like
like cash.
cash.
Nothing
Always ask
ask the
the clerk
clerk if
if you
you can
can get
a discount
discount
Always
get a
if you
if
you pay
pay with
with cash
cash (especially
(especially at
at a
a small
small
business, like
like a
a boutique).
boutique). Since
Since credit-card
credit-card
business,
companies charge
charge the
the store
store a
a fee
fee of
of around
around 33
companies
percent, if
if you
you pay
pay cash
cash some
some stores
stores will
will disdispercent,
count the
the 33 percent
percent theyd
lose anyway
anyway (fig(figcount
theyd lose
uring theyd
theyd rather
rather their
their customer
customer have
uring
have it
it
than th
th
the b
banks).
k ) S
Sometimes
ti
they'll ofter you even more of a discount just
to make
make the
the sale.
sale.
to
With thanks to Scott Gamm, author of More Money, Please.
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125
THE
NFORMATON
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Know
Your Retail Outlet
A guide to making the most of any shopping trip
BBB INVESTIGATES:
Pre-Collections
The department store
The boutique
Upside: Pretty much anything you want, all in one place.

With massive retail space, department stores have a much
larger inventory than boutiques. If you're intimidated by
the scale, develop a relationship with a salesperson who
can make shopping both easier (by prepulling items in
your size) and less expensive (by offering occasional
discounts and secret sales). Upscale department stores
also include free tailoring, an especially big savings when
youre considering investing in a new suit.
Downside: Department stores take fewer chances on
inventory, so you are less likely to find unique items.
Pro tips: Shop with the help of a sales associate. (See
below.) If you cant abide such socializing, a good way to
find new brands you may like is to go to one you know you
do, and then look at whats nearby, since similar brands
are often grouped together.
Upside: Personal attention from a clerk, possibly even the

owner. Instead of being overwhelmed by a massive
selection, you can easily navigate a tight, well-curated
mix of good clothes. Plus, youre supporting small local
businesses, which has to feel nice.
Downside: Don't expect big discounts, since boutiques
operate on tighter profit margins. And because of their
smaller footprint, boutiques cant carry as many items, so
you may need to go to several shops to stock up.
Pro tips: Develop a relationship there and the owner may
call you when new items come in or when his end-ofseason sale starts. He may also authorize occasional
discounts if youre buying several items or paying cash.
Save boutiques for unique finds, when knowing youre not
wearing the same thing as everyone else makes the higher
price tag worth it.
The Web
Upside: Painless. Easy to comparison shop. Practically an infinite selection. In
some states, no sales tax. No shirt, no shoes, no pants, no problem.
Downside: Even if you know your size, sizes vary by brand. Since you obviously
cannot try before you buy, you may spend some time (and money) shipping
back items that dont fit.
your size, order slightly too big. You can always have it tailored.
With thanks to Nick Wooster, fashion consultant at Lardini and United Arrows.
HOW TO USE
Fall and spring collections you get. But

pre-spring?
You know the big
seasons. Theyre updated
throughout the year to
keep you coming back to
the store. But to get you
even more excited about
new styles, many stores
now do pre-collections,
early deliveries of the
fall and spring seasons.
These usually focus less
on the wildly trendy or
innovative looks of the
season and more on stuff
you can buy and wear now.
Its a way for a company
to expand its offerings,
sometimes by releasing a
best-selling item in a new
fabric or color. In fact, precollection items, though
theyre called pre-spring
and pre-fall, are actually
fairly seasonless, since
they stay on retail floors
the longest and need to
be wearable in different
temperatures.
Above: Gucci, pre-fall 2014.
A SALESPERSON
Your first step is to call or approach the manager and ask him to
help you find the right person. The manager will ask how often
you shop, the types of items you need, the brands you like, and
how much you typically spend. Answer honestly. You dont need
to make false promises to get good service. After you're introduced, if you get a good vibe, tell the salesman that you plan on
working with only him. It may be occasionally inconvenient, but
salesperson monogamy will pay dividends. Not only might he invite you to secret friends-and-family or preseason sales (which
offer up to a 40 percent discount), he will also call you when

things come in that you might like. You can even call him and let
him know you need an outfitfor a wedding, say, or a job interviewand hell have a curated changing room ready for you when
you arrive. Plus, you can negotiate: Even salespeople at high-end
department stores are allowed to offer discounts, so once youve
established your relationship, theres no harm in asking for a better price when youre buying in bulk or paying cash. But no matter
how close you two get, never try to pay in hugs.
With thanks to Eric Jennings, VP mens fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.
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SPRING 2014
H I S J O B I S N T TO O F F E R FA L S E C O M P L I M E N T S . H E S T H E R E TO H E L P. B U T O N LY I F YO U L E T H I M .
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THE WELL-NFORMED MAN S GUDE

TO THE OUTLET MALL
Whether youre at an outlet mall or an upscale stand-alone store, know
how to tell the deals from the deals
percent designer merchandise. That

number is higher just after a new
store opens, when the company often
brings in heavier-than-usual deliveries
of designer goods to make a favorable
first impression.
merchandise at factory stores is

made specifically for the factory
store. Sometimes that means they
keep the prices down by using
cheaper materials and construction
techniques, but sometimes it just
means youre paying what that item
should actually cost if it werent for
the brand markup. Generally, the
more outlets a store has, the higher
the odds that its stocked with stuff
made specifically for the outlet,
not extras from the main store. (See
sidebar.)
(YHU\KLJKHQGGHSDUWPHQWVWRUH
RXWOHWLVVSULQNOHGZLWKWR
5HPHPEHUWKHUHODWLRQVKLS\RX
just learned how to develop with the
salesman at the department store? Do
the same thing at high-end outlets,
too. Your salesman might set things
aside for you or even let you go into
the stock area and dig through boxes
of clothes before theyre put out on
the racks for the common folk. Just
remember him at the holidays. And
not with a box of cookies.
'RQWJHWVXFNHUHGE\WKH0653
Lots of labels list their price and an
inflated, supposedly original price to
make you feel like youre saving a ton
of money. But terms like compare
at and retail value have no legal
meaning, so the higher price could
be arbitrary. The only way to be sure
about the price the item actually sold
for is if you see the term original
price.
'RQ
WIDOOIRUWKHKHDOWK\RSWLRQ
at the food court. It's okay to admit
when you deserve some Sbarro.
With thanks to Mark Ellwood, author of Bargain Fever: How to Shop in a Discounted World.
THE
HOLY
GRAL OF
OUTLETS
Nordstrom Last
Chance Clearance
Store, Phoenix.
Nordstroms final
destination for
clearance and
returned items.
Moncler,
Chicago and
Central Valley,
New York.
Moncler's classic
puffy coats never
go on sale in
stores. Never.
John Varvatos,
Central Valley,
New York.
Varvatos doesnt
list this outlet
on its site, but
its there, and
the deals are
exceptional.
7RPP\%DKDPD
Tommy Bahama
has many outlet
stores, but its
one of the few
companies with
multiple outlets
that sells only
excess items from
original stores.
SHOPPNG
HOW TO
SPOT A FAKE
Be realistic. Anything
discounted more than 20 percent
is probably too good to be true.
Be cautious. The more famous
the brand, the more likely it is to
be a fake.
Be thorough. The site should
explicitly state a full, fair return
policy so you can send it back.
(EBay guarantees to help you
get a replacement or refund from
the seller if an item proves to be a
knockoff.)
Be prepared. A true designer
item will never have crooked
stitching or unfinished edges. Do a
quick search of common knockoff
shortcuts for that specific item
before you buy. (For example,
Rolex knockoffs have glass that
doesnt magnify the date; real
Louis Vuitton bags and luggage
will always have the date of
manufacture stamped on their
interior.)
THE BBB CHECKLST

THE SIZES YOU NEED TO KNOW
BEFORE HITTING THE STORES
HAT
The eBay Expert

The narrower you can be in your search, the better experience youll have. Specifics are sacred.
(Instead of an open term like jacket, try a particular style, like hunting blazer, barn coat, or
bomber jacket, along with a brand name if you
have one in mind.)
Unlike traditional retailers, eBay measures most
of its items in width and length (in inches). To
get a good sense of whether an item will fit, find
something in your closet that fits you well, then
measure it flat from armpit to armpit and also
measure the sleeve length. If the eBay items
measurements fall within half an inch, you can
assume it will fit you.
Dont waste time on forgettablesyoure more
likely to score on limited-edition merchandise,

one-offs, and hard-to-find pieces, whether vintage or from the current season. Which is to say
think less Hanes undershirts and more oxblood
John Lobb cap-toes.
Take advantage of misspellings. Fewer people
will find Dolce and Gabbanna or Dolce and
Gabanna than the real thing, so youre competing with a smaller crowd and will likely get a better deal.
NECK
SLEEVE
Shopping eBay truly is an artan art that can result in great deals, unique items, and, if you do it
right, minimal headaches. A few tips:
CHEST
WAIST
GLOVE
INSEAM
Always use AuctionSniper.com for your bidding.

Unless you like constant stress and the refresh
button.
Avoid knockoffs. Not so easy? See above right.
With thanks to Michael Moskowitz, chief curator and editorial director for eBay.
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SHOE
127
NFORMATON
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shipping and returns. The best way to find what works
for you will always be trying it on. That wont change, but
returns will become much easier: Think pickups from
your home. Social media will also play a larger role in the
future: Youll see more reviews from actual customers
on sizing and colors, and even uploaded photos of real
people showing how an item looks on them, not on a
model or flat on a white background. And like everything
good, online shopping will become more personalized
to you. Sites like Lyst.com let you decide what it shows
youbrands, styles, colors, or even suggestions from
your favorite magazine or semiannual luxury style
guide with a dark color in its title. Your homepage will
be completely different from someone elses, tailored to
your preferences. And although its not online shopping
per se, youll soon be able to use your smartphone to
make in-store shopping more virtual. When you walk
into a department store, youll have the chance to receive
notifications about new clothing or clothing in your size,
or to receive a discount code. If you see a sweater you
like, your phone can immediately show you the pants or
shoes to wear with it. Its like having a sales assistant in
your pocket, without all the wiggling.
THE FU TURE OF
ONLNE SHOPPNG
Having a shirt delivered by drones sounds cool, but it
doesnt matter if the shirt doesnt fit or looks different in
person than it did on your screen. Luckily, retailers are
taking care of that. The first step is creating seamless
Peak Shopping
W H E N TO S H O P F O R W H AT
after-Christmas sales ofer the best

deals youll get all year.
FEBRUARY
Winter coats may be

marked down, and you
still have time to wear
them.
MARCH
The easiest time to find that

charming "Kiss Me, I'm Irish" barbecue apron you've been coveting.
APRL
MAY
JUNE
Never shop after tax refunds come

in. Stores know youre feeling
flush, so there are far fewer sales.
Anything but flowers. Maybe write

your mom a note.
Big stores have their annual sales

the same months each year, usually one in the summer and one in
the winter.
JULY
AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
Nordstrom
marks down
new fall
merchandise.
End-of-season sales are the

best time to buy anything trendy
or highly seasonala shirt in a terrible (sorry, attention-grabbing) color,
shorts, wool sweaters, etc.because
stores cant sell them next season.
Back-to-school
sales! No proof
of matriculation
required.
OCTOBER
Avoid stores early in the month,

when they are trying to bank
profits before rolling out extreme
Black Friday discounts.
nOVEMBEr
Turns out you can
put a price on dignity. Stay home on
Black Friday.
DECEMBER
The best month to look for friendsand-family sales, which can offer 20
to 40 percent discounts on items
that are rarely marked down, like
jeans, tuxedos, and basics like socks,
underwear, and T-shirts.
With thanks to Mark Ellwood, author of Bargain Fever: How to Shop in a Discounted World.
128
CAN YOU
RETURN T?
Simple questions
to ask yourself
before hitting the
returns counter:
Do you still have
the receipt?
Yes.
Does it say final sale?

No.
Do you still have the receipt, but you bought
the item more than two
months ago?
No.
Do you still have the receipt, but you bought
the item more than
two months ago at
Bloomingdales?
Yes. (Higher-end stores
are often more lenient
on returns, assuming you
can turn on the charm.)
With thanks to Chris Morton, CEO and cofounder of Lyst.com.
JANUARY
SHOPPNG
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Is it a pet that died within

two weeks of purchase?
Yes.
Did you have the item
altered?
No.
Is that a monogram?
No.
Did you wear those shoes
outside?
No.
Did you spill something
on the item?
No.
Did you already fill in all
the sudoku puzzles in
pen?
No.
Did you buy the item
on Craigslist?
No.
Was the item a service,
like a shoe shine?
No.
Did you wear that
swimsuit?
Come on.
SPRING 2014
THE
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PORTFOLIO THREE
South
Whether youre sailing the tropical seas in a
100-foot yacht or stranded on some luxurious deserted isle,
kick back in the seasons best sportswear
Photographs by Stewart Shnng
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This page: Three-button wool-linen-and-silk jacket ($2,725), linen shirt ($530), and linen shorts ($605) by Brunello Cucinelli; 212-627-9202. Ceramic Aquaracer 500 chronograph ($4,300) by TAG Heuer; shop.tagheuer.com. Leather belt ($128) by Coach;
coach.com. Opposite, from left: Cotton windbreaker ($475) by Moncler; 646-350-3620. Cotton polo shirt ($450) and cotton shorts ($350) by Calvin Klein Collection; 212-292-9027. Canvas slip-ons ($45) by Vans; vans.com. // Nylon windbreaker ($695),
cotton polo shirt ($450), and cotton shorts ($350) by Calvin Klein Collection; 212-292-9027. Canvas sneakers ($45) by Vans; vans.com.
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Cheaters Always Win

Whether youre the captain or a deckhand, after boat shoes (okay, and sunscreen), the classic
windbreaker, aka windcheater, is the most important item of clothing you can wear when on the
water. This lightweight, typically waterproof jacket shields you from whatever the sea may throw
at you, whether a cool breeze as you watch the sun go down or a sudden squall that hits as
youre bringing the jib around. But dont just take our word for it: JFKs windcheater was a staple
of his leisure wardrobe, famously emblazoned with the presidential seal. And nobody knows
seafaringor leisurelike the Kennedys.
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The Print of Summer
If you havent worn paisley since that prom cummerbund, now is the time to start, as the classic
print is having a bit of a resurgence. Although the pattern originated in Kashmir, the East India Trading
Company brought it to Britain in the mid-1700s, where a majority of the weaving was done in a little
town outside Glasgow called Paisley. When you wear paisley, remember that it should be by far the
boldest part of your outfit. Best to keep the rest subdued. And unlike at prom, never match it to your
dates dress.
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This page, from left: Two-button cotton-and-linen jacket ($395) and linen shirt ($215) by Boss; hugoboss.com. Cotton shorts ($60) and canvas belt ($40) by Nautica; nautica.com. // Two-button cotton jacket ($2,225), cotton polo shirt ($1,070), and cotton
trousers ($860) by Herms; hermes.com. // Double-breasted polyamide jacket ($1,395) and cotton trousers ($725) by Giorgio Armani; armani.com. Cotton T-shirt ($128) by Stone Island; stoneisland.com. Opposite: Linen sweater ($175) by Boss; hugoboss.
com. Nylon swim trunks ($270) by Etro; etro.com. Steel Sailing-Touch watch ($1,150) by Tissot; us.tissotshop.com. On her: Bikini by Etro; bracelet, Dezso by Sara Beltran.
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This page: Cotton pullover ($2,195) by Burberry Prorsum and cotton shorts ($175) by Burberry Brit; burberry.com. Opposite, from left: Two-button cotton jacket ($2,225), cotton polo shirt ($1,070), and cotton trousers ($860) by Herms; hermes.com.
// Double-breasted polyamide jacket ($1,395) by Giorgio Armani; armani.com. Cotton T-shirt ($128) by Stone Island; stoneisland.com.
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The Popover
Trench
The bright-yellow jacket on the left-hand
page is called a cagoule, which is derived from
the French word for hood and now a British
term for a longer-length, lightweight popover
parka. Thanks to a lack of zippers, the already
waterproof fabric is even more impervious to
the elements. Plus, its highly durable, which
accounts for another of the cagoules signature
traits: The best and only way to transport it
(other than on your back) is by rolling it up and
stuffing it in your bag or pocket.
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The Enduring
Tradition (and
Weave) of Chinos
Like camouflage and buzz cuts, we owe chinos
to the military. Originally made for British army
uniforms in the mid-19th century, chinos were
mainly manufactured in China. American troops
stationed in the Philippines wore them during the
Spanish-American War and knowing only that the
pants came from China, quickly nicknamed them
chinos. It wasnt until World War II, however, that
chinos really entered mainstream America. After
the war ended, the pants were sold at surplus
stores across the country, where the younger
generation found them to be a comfortable,
durable, and convenient alternative to jeans. We
havent taken them off since.
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This page, on her: Bikini by Etro. Opposite, from left: Cotton T-shirt ($49) by Tommy Hilfiger; tommy.com. Cotton chinos ($68) by Dockers; dockers.com. Leather deck shoes ($85) by Sperry Top-Sider; sperrytopsider.com. // Cotton chinos ($68) by
Dockers; dockers.com.
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Just a Man
in a Caf
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If it werent for those annoying portrait painters who seem to pop up on every street and beach where they can find
a tourist, quick-dry shorts might not exist. In 1971, Fred Prysquel was sitting at a caf in St.-Tropez watching the beach
and the tourists . . . and those painters, when he was struck with an idea. He sketched a pattern for a pair of swim trunks
cut close, like boxers, in the bold colors the painters used. Soon after, he realized that he could make them out of
spinnaker sailcloth, a marina staple that dried quickly in the wind and sun. Prysquel named his company Vilebrequin
and the quick-drying swimsuit was born. So its him you can thank the next time you sit down in your car after a swim
and dont ruin the leather.
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From left: Nylon swim trunks ($225) by Isaia; saksfifthavenue.com. // Polyester swim trunks ($60) by Nautica; nautica.com. // Polyamide swim trunks ($250) by Vilebrequin; vilebrequin.com. Cotton
polo shirt ($380) by Dior Homme; diorhomme.com.
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Blue Collar
Chambray is the classic
American workhorse
and work shirt, with a plain
weave of white and blue
threads as durable as it
is comfortable. Although
originally worn by the
working class (hence the
term blue collar), today
chambray is as acceptable
in the boardroom as it
is in the break room. Or
any other place you find
yourself. Theres only one
rule: Dont be gentle. Beat
your chambray up a little.
Itll only look better.
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This page: Cotton chambray shirt ($89) by Tommy Hilfiger; tommy.com. Linen shorts ($660) by Brunello Cucinelli; 212-627-9202. Canvas belt ($40) by Nautica; nautica.com. Opposite: Silk shirt ($1,135) and cotton chinos ($660) by Prada; prada.com. Cotton
tank top ($89) by Bresciani; customshirt1.com. Suede loafers ($575) by Tods; tods.com. On her: Bathing suit, Charlie by Matthew Zink.
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The Original
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This page: Cotton-and-viscose trousers ($1,050) by Gucci; gucci.com. Spiritual beads bracelet ($595) by David Yurman; davidyurman.com. Opposite: Cotton sweatshirt ($325) by Michael Bastian; 631-377-3981. Cotton shorts ($285) by Band of Outsiders;
bandofoutsiders.com. On her: Sweater by Bottega Veneta; bathing suit by Burberry.
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Hawaiis State Print
This season, designers have embraced classic tropical prints, but their takes are bigger, bolder,
andquite oftenmuch louder. Like these Gucci pants (left), the print of which is based on
Hawaiis state flower, the hibiscus. Many tropical prints were first produced on tapa cloth, a
fabric made from fibers found under the bark of trees. The process started in the Pacific Islands,
eventually working its way as far east as Hawaii. But tapa cloth had one major problem: It didnt
last long. So its a good thing we have cotton now.
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RECIPE
FOOD OF THE SLANDS

A meal to ease your soul
THE CHEF
THE STORY
Although I learned most of my cooking from my

grandmother, my father taught me this dish. In
Barbados, where I was raised, it was our tradition
to have Caribbean-style oxtail for Christmas. It was
one of my fathers favorite dishes. Wed wake up in
the morning and he would have been working on it all
night, like a kitchen Santa. The house would be filled
with the most amazing aromas of spice and meat,
bubbling away in the kitchen.
Sarah Krnon
Miss Ollies, Oakland, California
Sarah Kirnon moved to the San Francisco Bay area in 2000 and after working in the kitchen at two area restaurants,
opened Miss Ollies in 2013.
THE DISH
CARBBEAN-STYLE OXTAL
Put meat into a Dutch oven with onion and scallions. Add enough water to
cover the meat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 35 to 45 minutes,
skimming and discarding anything that rises to the surface.
Meanwhile, put the thyme, cloves, bay leaves, and cinnamon into a piece of
cheesecloth and tie tightly. Place in the pot.
Once meat has boiled, add salt and pepper to taste. Add cassareep,
peppers, orange peel, and nutmeg. Bring to a hard simmer and cover for
about 2 hours.
When meat is pulling away from the bone, remove from heat and let cool
slightly before removing oxtail; set aside. Remove fat, orange peel, and
peppers from the pot by skimming with a spoon.
Return the pot to the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the sauce by about
half, or to desired intensity. Add brown sugar if desired.
Return oxtail to the pot and rewarm.
Serve with rice and peas.
S E RV E S 6 t o 8
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SPRING 2014
P RO D U C E D BY M A RG A R E T J O N E S A LO N S O FO R
2 Scotch-bonnet peppers (or 3

habanero)
Three 2-inch pieces orange peel
tsp nutmeg
1 Tbsp brown sugar (optional)
5 lbs oxtail, trimmed

1 large onion, chopped
1 bunch scallions, finely chopped
1 bunch thyme
1 Tbsp cloves
5 bay leaves
3 sticks cinnamon
salt and pepper to taste
250 ml (about 1 cup) cassareep
(available online or at Latin or
Caribbean grocery stores)
M A P S P RO D U C T I O N S . H A I R BY TO N Y LU C H A . M A K E U P BY M A R I S S A N E M E S .
INGREDIENTS
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THE
NFORMATON
MANTENANCE
What Type of
Spring Cleaner Are You?
You know what they say: Self-awareness is next to cleanliness. Or something like that.
Advanced
You look forward to transitioning your wardrobe
from one season to the next.
You own Space Bags, and your closet contains more
than one item made of cedar.
You have only matching hangers.
Even your sneakers are seasonal.
Your closet is clearly organized by type of item, then
by color.
Theres a good chance you used a label maker.
Each year, you dry-clean and summerproof your
sweaters by putting them away in airtight containers.
Moderate
Your hangers dont necessarily match, but at least
they didnt come from the dry cleaner.
you also have different shoes for summer and
winter; however, what you call putting them in
storage the rest of us just call sliding them to the
side of your shoe rack.
You purge the clothes you no longer wear, but only
when forcedor when you run out of hangers.
You may not summerproof your sweaters before you
put them away, but at least you put them away.
Lackluster
you are unfamiliar with the concept of a summer

y
sw
sweater
and cant understand how someone wearing
one isn't sweating.
o
you wonder what keeps making holes in the clothes you
y
throw on the floor.
th
you lived out of a suitcase for a week last year, but only
y
because it was easier than unpacking.
b
y
you still have a bag of clothes that you meant to take to
Goodwill. last year.
G
You cant remember the last time you washed
your jeans.
THE BBB
DECSON MAKER
Knowing what to save and what to toss is easy. Just ask yourself the following questions about any item
youre unsure of. (If you answer yes to any question, its time to get rid of the item.)
Has it been more than a year

since you last wore it?
Is it stained?
Is it torn?
Is it much too large or much too
small?
Are you aware that you wont be
losing that much weight
anytime soon?
Is that an oversized logo?
Was it a hand-me-down?
Is it very trendy and not from
this year?
Is it one of many similar items in
your closet (i.e., your third black
suit, your second-favorite LED
belt buckle)?
Is that rayon?
If the item was a gift, did the
gift giver move far away, making
it unlikely hell ever know youre
not wearing it?
Does that say boot cut?
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F O R W H AT E V E R
R E A S O N , AT S O M E
PONT SOMEONE
DECDED SPRNG S
FOR CLEANNG. MGHT
A S W E L L D O T R G H T.
THE
FVE-MNUTE
GUDE TO
GVNG
Whats a man to do with
his castoffs? A brief look at
the options.
OPTION 1
Throw it all away
Pros: Quick, easy,
convenient.
Cons: Youre a terrible
person.
OPTION 2
Goodwill
Pros: Tax write-off, the satisfaction that comes with
philanthropy.
Cons: Dragging your stuff
there, since Goodwill tends
to pick up only large items.
OPTION 3
Buffalo Exchange
Pros: You make a little money back, especially if youre
selling designer clothing.
Cons: Youll get far more in
store credit than you do in
cash, so its most convenient
for those interested in other
peoples castoffs.
OPTION 4
Consignment shop
Pros: You can make a
little money.
Cons: You dont get that
money right away. And you
dont get anything if the
item doesnt sell.
OPTION 5
Career Gear
Pros: Youre helping lowincome men get suits for job
interviews. And you can mail
in your donation.
Cons: Accepts only dress
clothes, so youll still need
to make another stop.
OPTION 6
H&M
Pros: A 15-percent discount
on a new item for every bag
of clothes you donate.
Cons: Lets see. Fifteen percent comes out to . . . just
about seven dollars.
145
THE
NFORMATON
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HOW TO HANG CLOTHES

Because how you hang them greatly affects how they hang on you
Suits: Find something sturdy

that mimics your bodys shape
and distributes the suits weight.
Too narrow and the shoulders
can droop. Too wide and the
fabric in the sleeve will poke out
farther than your shoulders.
Ideally, youd use a suit bag, but if
you dont want to unzip a bag
every time you get dressed, at
least use a shoulder cover, which
sits over the top third of the
jacket, protecting the shoulders
from dust while allowing the
fabric to breathe.
Dress shirts: The most

important aspect of a shirt
hanger is width. You need
something that extends the full
width of the shirts shoulders in
order to prevent unsightly
puckering. You dont need to
leave a lot of space between each
shirt, but, in order to avoid
wrinkles, dont press them
tightly together.
Pants: Avoid locking-style

bars, as the clamps leave creases
and can damage fragile fabrics.
Instead, get a trouser bar thats
lined with felt, which grips the
garment with texture so that it
wont slide off but puts no
pressure on the fabric.
as three days for a substandard

hanger to ruin a soft-knit
sweater. Gravity pulls the
sweater down and stretches out
the shoulder. Ideally, youd fold
and store sweaters on shelves,
but if you just dont have the
space, use a felt-tipped hanger,
which prevents the sweater from
sliding down the hanger and
stretching out the neck.
With thanks to Kirby Allison at the Hanger Project. All hangers by the Hanger Project.
The Closet Upgrade
The Endorsement:
THE CHEST
How to build the ideal closet
2. SHOE RACK. Its convenient and keeps your shoes

from piling up on the ground. Plus, if its angled, a
proper shoe rack makes it much easier to scan your
shoes when youre picking out a pair in the morning.
3. SHOE TREE. Heres where you want unfinished
wood (specifically cedar), since finished products
dont allow the wood to breathe and thus wont suck
the moisture out of your shoes. Though always a good
idea, the only time you really need to use shoe trees
is the first few hours after you take your shoes off, or
after theyve been exposed to any amount of water.
146
this type of thing, after you wear an item of clothing,

move it to the back (or all the way to the left or
whateverits your closet) so that you get a sense just
by looking of how recently youve worn something.
5. ANOTHER WORD ON ORGANIZATION. Always store
your expensive stuff high. The pricier the item, the
more you want to get it away from the floor, which
is home to dust, moths, and attacks from household
dangers, like pets and children. You also want those
items you access regularly, like socks and underwear,
to be relatively highat a level that keeps you from
bending down as often. (Not that its getting harder
for you to bend down. You look great.)
6. STORAGE BOXES: Plastic airtight bins are best,
but if you dont have those, at least be sure to use
something with a lid. It helps to keep out dust and
moths.
4. A WORD ON ORGANIZATION. Not only does

an organized closet look better, it also makes your
clothes easier to find. If youre particularly drawn to
7. DEHUMIDIFIER. Unless you live in Arizona, summer

is humid. And that humidity gets in your closets and
affects your clothes. Since youre probably not going
to put a full-fledged dehumidifier in your closet, you
can place silica packets on the shelves or wrap a few
sticks of chalk in a rubber band and leave the bundle
in there. Just dont let it touch your clothes.
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Plastic bins are effective: They

store and protect your stuff.
But theyre not that attractive,
which is why you hide them at
the back of your closet, under
your bed, or in the basement. Not
that you should get rid of them:
You should augment them with
a chest. Its furniture and storagebeautiful and useful. Throw
your wool sweaters in it. Or your
heavy boots and rain gear. It really
doesnt matter, because no ones
ever going to know. Although they
might compliment you on what
youve done with the place. Trunk
($1,995) by Ralph Lauren Home;
ralphlaurenhome.com.
SPRING 2014
1. UNIFORM HANGERS.
Theyre expensive, sure,
but so was your wardrobe.
Always use finished wood
(unfinished can have little
splinters that may cause
snags) and make sure you
have enough room to leave
an inch or two between
each item.
WorldMags.net
THE
SHOE REFRESH
H O W TO S P R U C E U P YO U R K I C K S FO R S U M M E R
First things first: Deal with the inside. Eliminate stubborn smells by soaking cotton balls in
peppermint or tea-tree oil and leaving them in your shoes overnight. If that doesnt work, you might
want to get a scented insole. Or new shoes.
MANTENANCE
THNGS A MAN
DOES
NOT
WANT TO FND N
HS CLOSET
Wire hangers
Moths
Three-dimensional dust
clumps
Another mans
shirt
Your shoe is made of: leather
Find a shoe polish the same color
as your shoes. Creams are easier to
use, but wont leave the same shiny
finish. Rub a welt brush (or
toothbrush, preferably clean)
along the seam between the sole
and the upper. Use a polishing
cloth to rub in the polish in a
circular motion. Remember: Shoe
polish is like cologne or hair
productyou dont need a lot.
After the polish dries, buff it with
the polishing cloth, paying the
most attention to the toe, which is
what the majority of people will
see. Leather shoes ($700) by Fratelli
Rossetti; fratellirossetti.com.
IN CASE
OF
EMERGENCY
Your shoe is made of: suede

Use a rubber pencil eraser to
remove smudges and small stains,
then go over the entire shoe with
a suede brush (Allen Edmonds
sells a combo brush for $6.50,
with harder bristles for spot
cleaning and rubber bristles for
smoothing the nap), working only
in one direction so that the suede
looks uniform. Follow up with a
silicone spray to protect your
shoes from water damage and
future stains. Suede monk-straps
($675) by O'Keeffe; mrporter.com.
Your shoe is made of: canvas

If it's a sneaker, a washingmachine cycle is easiest. Just
know that many canvas sneakers
are held together by an adhesive
that can break down if submerged
in water for too long. For other
shoes (or if youre extremely
cautious about your Purcells),
mix a little detergent in warm
water and scrub with a
toothbrush. Vigorously. If that
doesnt work, make a paste of
baking soda and warm water, and
try that. Canvas shoes ($380) by
Grenson; grenson.co.uk.
There are a couple nice things about canvas sneakers: 1. Theyre relatively cheap, so if you
dont like what were about to suggest, you can just replace them. 2. If your shoes are too
stained to salvage, you can just paint them. Seriously. Get fabric paint from a craft store and
brush it on. The sloppier the better. This is not the kind of work you want to hide.
ANNUAL UPGRADES
A pile of clothes
and hangers
(after the bar
collapses)
Skeletons
Square-toed
shoes
Cut-offs
A portal to
Narnia
The desiccated
body of his son's
hamster
A FEW THINGS TO REPLACE EVERY YEAR, WHETHER YOU

THINK YOU NEED TO OR NOT
A Little
Inspiration
W H I T E T - S H I RT S
Look for: Holes, stains,
yellowing, armpit fabric thats
as stiff as cardboard.
Possible replacement:
SOCKS
Look for: Holes,
stretched-out ankles, faded
colors, a persistent funk.
U N D E RW E A R
Look for: Holes, stretchedout waistbands, discoloration,
unfortunate patterns.
BY DKNY ($36 FOR PACK OF 3);

DKNY.COM.
BY BRESCIANI ($32 PER PAIR);

CUSTOMSHIRT1.COM.
BY CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR ($33 FOR

PACK OF 3); CALVINKLEIN.COM.
WorldMags.net
After going through so

much cleaning, youll have
a little extra space in your
closet. And what better
to do with that space
than fill it, or part of it,
with something nice. You
deserve it. Two-button
wool-silk-and-linen jacket
($2,500) by Ascot Chang;
212-759-3333.
147
THE
NFORMATON
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A HOW-TO
MANTENANCE
SUMMERPROOFNG:
The best ways to prep your suits and sweaters for hibernation
fold: Completely flatten the sweater, then make a
vertical fold to bring one side into the middle of
the sweater, stacking the sleeve on top. Repeat on
the other side. Pack (only one row deep if you can
manage; stacking sweaters can lead to crushing) in a
clean plastic bin with a lid.
W O O L S U I T S : Take them to the dry cleaner for the
same reason you washed your sweaters. If youre too
scared of the chemicals (see below right), at least
hand-clean your suits with a natural bristle garment
brush to fluff the fabric and remove embedded
dirt. Use a lint brush to remove any lintnot those
sticky-tape rollers, which can leave a residue and
actually attract more lint. Seal inside a garment bag.
Can It Be Saved? Storage Edition

C A U T I O U S A S YO U M AY B E , S TO R E D C L OT H E S E X P E R I E N C E T H E O C C A S I O N A L
C ATA S T R O P H E . H E R E S W H AT TO D O TO R E V I V E T H E M , I F A N Y T H I N G .
Moths
If the holes are on a seam and theyre not too large, your tailor
may be able to close the seam around them. If the holes are
not on a seam but are small, a tailor can sometimes weave the
threads back together. But dont hold your breath. You likely
just got yourself a very nice chamois for the next time you wash
your car.
Mustiness
A few days before you plan to unpack, stick a few scented dryer
sheets into each box. If your clothes still smell stuffy when you
unpack, wash them with scented detergent.
Deep-set wrinkles
Use a steamer to relax the fibers. If you dont have one, you can
use your iron on the wool setting, but get out kinks by ironing
on the reverse side of the fabric so that it doesnt get flattened
and shiny.
Water damage
Cotton clothing can be washed with scented detergent. (Opt

for the extra rinse cycle if an item really reeks of mildew.) Wool
should be laid on top of towels to dry, away from any heat.
(Never hang-dry, as that can permanently warp the shape.) Then
bring the item to the dry cleaner. For shoes that are made of
anything but leather, stuff them with newspaper and dry away
from heat, then leave them on a shoe tree to reshape. If your
shoes are leather (or if any leather good is damaged), wipe off
the moisture immediately and keep away from heat. Drying too
quickly can lead the fibers to break at stress points, and these
cant be repaired, no matter how good your guy may be. For a
leather jacket, stuff with paper towels and straighten sleeves
so they dont shrivel as they dry. Once dry, apply a leather
conditioner, like Zyml, to restore softness.
THE SEASONAL
MANS GUIDE TO
STORAGE
If you have . . .
A lot of space: Store items in
plastic binsthe shallower the
better, as packing your clothes in
too many layers can wrinkle or
crush them. Plus, if moths or water happen to get into the bin,
youll lose a smaller chunk of
your wardrobe. For shoes, place
each in a shoe bag and store inside their boxes to prevent fading, and dust from accumulating.
A little space: Vacuum bags take
up less room than bins. But dont
think about using them for suits
or down coats, which theyll
ruin. Hang those things on good
hangers (see page 146) inside garment bags.
No space at all: Most people
dont realize that you can pay
your dry cleaner a small fee to
store your clothes for the winter.
Just dont plan on taking any lastminute cold-weather vacations.
The Case
Against Dry
Cleaning
Except for suits and sweaters,
dry cleaning should be avoided.
The main chemical used works
by breaking down the molecular bonds that make up stains.
Trouble is, over many cleanings,
it can also break down the natural bers in your clothes, causing them to wear out faster. And
it can give whites a yellow tinge.
T HE HEL L D O E S A M O T HB A L L W O R K , A N Y WAY?
Its the stink. Mothballs are made of an insecticide and pest repellent called naphthalene. According to the National Pesticide Information Center, the odor has a fatal effect on moths. Problem is the World Health Organization and EPA consider naphthalene
to be possibly carcinogenic to humans. Which means your best bet to fight moths is prevention. Vacuum their favorite hiding
spots regularlyalong baseboards, under furniture, along carpet edges, and anywhere in your closet. If that doesnt work, get
cedar hangers or cedar blocks (the natural oils kill moth larvae), which can be easily recharged every couple months by rubbing
them with sandpaper. Unlike mothballs, cedar smells nice. And probably wont kill you.
148
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SPRING 2014
S W E AT E R S : Before you store your sweaters, you

need to clean them, since even imperceptible food
spills or body smells (good or bad) can attract
bugs. Wash in lukewarm or cool water with Woolite,
letting each sweater soak for three to five minutes.
Dont twist or wring, which can damage the shape.
Instead, put the sweater on a towel and roll it up
loosely, gently squeezing to absorb excess water. Lay
flat to dry.
Once dry, remove any pilling with a fine-toothed
comb (the same kind youd use on your hair). It does
less damage to the surface of your sweater than
many sweater shavers do, plus itll run you less
than a dollar at the right store. Turn the sweater
inside out to protect the outside and do the retail
PROMOTION
WorldMags.net
ESQUIRE
SALUTES
T
FINEST M HE
EN
SPECIAL S
TY
STORES
IN TH
COUNTR E
Y
THE A-LIST | ESQUIRE SALUTES THESE STORES THAT STAND THE TEST OF TIME.
BAUMANS MENS SHOP, Little Rock, AR
LINDSAY ODOM LTD., High Point, NC;
BEECROFT & BULL, Richmond, VA;
Greensboro, NC
Virginia Beach, VA; Charlottesville, VA
M.S. MCCLELLAN, Knoxville, TN
BILLY REID, Florence, AL; New York, NY;
MALLASADI MENS BOUTIQUE, Dallas, TX
Dallas, TX; Houston, TX; Nashville, TN;
MAUS & HOFFMAN, Fort Lauderdale, FL;
Charleston, SC; Atlanta, GA
Naples, FL; Palm Beach, FL
BRICKS, Wichita, KS
MICHAEL DURU CLOTHIERS, Shrewsbury, NJ;
BURDI CLOTHING, Chicago, IL
New York, NY
BUTCH BLUM, Seattle, WA
MR. OOLEYS, Oklahoma City, OK
CAPRA & CAVELLI, Austin, TX
MR. SID, Newton, MA
CHOCKEYS, Raleigh, NC
NICS TOGGERY, Tallahassee, FL
CIRCA 2000 FINE MENSWEAR, Plano, TX
NORTON DITTO, Houston, TX
CONFEDERACY, Los Angeles, CA
PAUL SIMON COMPANY, Charlotte, NC
CUFFS, Chagrin Falls, OH
PERLIS, New Orleans, LA
DAVIDSONS, Roanoke, VA
PETER ELLIOT MENS, New York, NY
DE CORATO, New York, NY
PITKIN COUNTY DRY GOODS, Aspen, CO
EDWARD ARCHER, Southampton, NY
RALEIGH LIMITED, Indianapolis, IN
F. CAMALO, Lafayette, LA
RICHARD BENNETT CLOTHING FOR MEN,
FORTY FIVE TEN, Dallas, TX
Haddonfield, NJ
FRANCOS FINE CLOTHIER, Richmond, VA
ROBERT R. BAILEY, Albuquerque, NM;
GALTRUCCO SHOP, Bal Harbor, FL
Santa Fe, NM
GEORGE BASS, New Orleans, LA; Baton Rouge, LA
RON HERMAN, Los Angeles, CA;
GEORGE GREENE, Chicago, IL
Beverly Hills, CA; Brentwood, CA; Malibu, CA
GORSUCH LTD., Vail, CO
SAM CAVATO, St. Louis, MO
GREAT SCOTT LTD., Jackson, MS
SEBASTIANS CLOSET, Dallas, TX
GUFFEYS OF ATLANTA, Atlanta, GA
THE MANS SHOP, Arlington, TX
HADLEIGHS, Dallas, TX
THE RED BARN, Rochester, NY
JOE BRAND, Laredo, TX; McAllen, TX
THE WEBSTER, Miami Beach, FL
JOHN CRAIG, Winter Park, FL
UTAH WOOLEN MILLS, Salt Lake City, UT
KHAKIS MEN CLOTHIER OF CARMEL, Carmel, CA
THE GOLD STANDARD | THESE STORES CONTINUOUSLY RAISE THE BAR ON WHAT IT
MEANS TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS.
A. TAGHI, Houston, TX
LOUIS BOSTON, Boston, MA
ANDRISEN MORTON MENS, Denver, CO
M PENNER, Houston, TX
BARNEYS NEW YORK, New York, NY
MALOUFS, Lubbock, TX
BERGDORF GOODMAN, New York, NY
MARIOS, Portland, OR; Seattle, WA; Tigard, OR
BOYDS, Philadelphia, PA
MARSHS, Huntington, NY
DAVIDE CENCI, New York, NY
MITCHELLS, Westport, CT
GARMANY, Red Bank, NJ
OAK HALL, Memphis, TN
GARYS, Newport Beach, CA
RICHARDS, Greenwich, CT
GENE HILLER, Sausalito, CA
RODES FOR HIM & FOR HER, Louisville, KY
GODFRYS, Worthington, OH; Columbus, OH
RUBENSTEINS, New Orleans, LA
GUY LA FERRERA ITALIAN CLOTHING,
SHAIAS, Birmingham, AL
Boca Raton, FL
SID MASHBURN, Atlanta, GA
HUBERT WHITE, Minneapolis, MN
SYD JEROME, Chicago, IL
JAMES DAVIS, Memphis, TN
STANLEY KORSHAK, Dallas, TX
JEFFREY NEW YORK, New York, NY
TAYLOR RICHARDS & CONGER, Charlotte, NC
KILGORE TROUT, Cleveland, OH
THE CLOTHERIE, Phoenix, AZ
LARRIMORS, Pittsburgh, PA
WEISS & GOLDRING, Alexandria, LA
LEVYS, Nashville, TN
WILKES BASHFORD, San Francisco, CA
LAWRENCE COVELL, Denver, CO
WorldMags.net
THE
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Food
1. THE SMILE
26 Bond Street
2. JACKS WIFE FREDA
13. I SODI
105 Christopher Street

Impossible to get a
table, but when you do,
its worth the wait. And
the brain damage.
Nick Wooster
224 Lafayette Street
Barbers
23. EAST SIXTH STREET
BARBER SHOP
216 East 6th Street

Dr. Mike is my guy.
Alejandro Ingelmo
31. CHCM
2 Bond Street
They offer an
interesting mix of mens
brands that are difficult
to find in other places.
Ernest Sabine
32. THE LUDLOW SHOP
3. LOCANDA VERDE
377 Greenwich Street
Drinks
4. MAIALINO
14. BEMELMANS BAR
2 Lexington Avenue
A great spot for lunch,
but the secret is the
breakfast. Andy
Katz-Mayfield
35 East 76th Street

15. THE DAILY
210 Elizabeth Street

16. WEATHER UP
5. LUPES EAST L. A.
KITCHEN
110 Sixth Avenue

This place has been a
favorite since we moved
to our studio six years
ago. We even have our
own top-secret huevos
rancheros order.
Sam Shipley
6. THE LAMBS CLUB
132 West 44th Street
159 Duane Street

You rarely get tourists
or partygoers.
Matt Breen
17. SMITH & MILLS
71 North Moore Street

Great local vibe and
excellent cocktails.
Steven Alan
18. THE RAINES LAW
ROOM
48 West 17th Street

7. ABC KITCHEN
35 East 18th Street

8. PAL
198 Allen Street

One of the first glutenfree pizza places in New
York. Ask for Philip.
Alex and Mike Faherty
9. RUBIROSA
RISTORANTE
19. OLD TOWN BAR
45 East 18th Street

One of the oldest bars
in New York. Todd
Snyder
20. THE EAR INN
326 Spring Street
24. PEPPE HAIRSTYLISTS

TO MEN
50 Hudson Street
12 West 57th Street, No. 4

Were reluctant to
share our secret, but
since we were 14, weve
been getting our hair cut
here by Toshi, a Japanese
master. Insane head
massages. Alex and
Mike Faherty
33. BARNEYS NEW YORK
116 Wooster Street
26. NEIGHBORHOOD
BARBERS
439 East Ninth Street
Mens
Outtters
27 Grand Street
One of the best views
of downtown. Ernest
Sabine
Dry
Cleaners
41. EXPERT CLEANERS
34. NIKE
21 Mercer Street
Unfortunately for my
bank account, I often
walk out with a new pair
of sneakers. Sam
Shipley
25. BLIND BARBER
339 East 10th Street

The best part? A free
drink with the cut. I
plan my cuts for late at
night, so when Im done,
I can dive back into the
speakeasy behind the
barbershop. Matt
Breen
40. JIMMY, THE

ROOFTOP BAR AT THE
JAMES HOTEL
35. HOLLAND & SHERRY
400 West 23rd Street

42. MEURICE GARMENT
CARE
31 University Place
43. TAMARA DRY
CLEANERS
126 Ninth Avenue
209 Elizabeth Street
Outdoor
Leisure
36. THE BACKYARD AT
SATURDAYS SURF NYC
31 Crosby Street
A must when the
weather is warm. Im
guaranteed to see at
least three of my friends
there at any given time.
Matt Breen
37. BROOKLYN BRIDGE
PARK
21. THE HALF KING
27. BERGDORF
GOODMAN
505 West 23rd Street
754 Fifth Avenue
334 Furman Street,

Brooklyn
22. THE CANNIBAL
28. R BY 45RPM
38. THE HIGH LINE

Huge selection
of craft beers and
knowledgeable
bartenders who can
explain the origins and
flavors of a particular
beer youre drinking.
Ernest Sabine
169 Mercer Street

Its like walking into a
Zen garden in Japan.
Alex and Mike
Faherty
122 Gansevoort Street

(but really, you can get on
the High Line anywhere
up to 34th Street from 10th
or 11th Avenues)
29. CARSON STREET

CLOTHIERS
39. WASHINGTON
SQUARE PARK
63 Crosby Street
1 Washington Square East
Tailors
44. HONG KONG TAILOR
JACK
136 Waverly Place, No. 2

45. DYNASTY
6 East 38th Street

Everyone needs a tailor
like Joseph Ting. Todd
Snyder
46. G&G CLEANERS &
TAILOR
46 Grand Street
They do a great job on
suits and understand
current proportions
well. Steven Alan
235 Mulberry Street

10. EN JAPANESE
BRASSERIE
435 Hudson Street

11. CAF SELECT
212 Lafayette Street

If you can snag an
outdoor table, theyll let
you sit there for hours.
Andy Katz-Mayfield
30. ODIN NEW YORK

12. FEDORA
239 West Fourth Street
PHOTOGRAPHS & ILLUSTRATIONS: The Art of Overdressing, p. 40: Day-Lewis: Cinecom International/Everett;
Peck: Everett Collection; p. 41: All clothing: David Lawrence/Studio D. The Two Cars, p. 56: Mercedes: courtesy Mercedes; Citron: Interfoto/Alamy. The Three Nights, p. 62: All photos: courtesy Cap Estel; p. 64: Spa, infinity pool, hotel room, hotel at night: courtesy One & Only; abseiling: Bill Hatcher/Getty; p. 66: All photos: courtesy Costa Careyes.
The Dark Side of Americana, p. 68: Cruise: Nancy Morna/Sygma/Corbis; Gosling: Richard Foreman Jr./Film District/
Everett Collection; De Niro: Universal/Everett Collection; Dillon: Nancy Moral/Sygma/Corbis; Estevez: Getty; Cage:
Samuel Goldwyn Company/Photofest; Vegas skyline: Sylvain Sonnett/Getty; Freemont Street, Stardust Casino: HG/
150
Magnum Photos, p. 69: All clothing: David Lawrence/Studio D. A Change of Underwear, p. 82: Robin: Bettman/
Corbis; Newman: Warner Bros./the Kobal Collection; striped underwear: Advertising Archive; Superman: Gamma-Keystone/Getty; brown briefs, red briefs: Advertising Archive; p. 83: All clothing: David Lawrence/Studio D.
The Information: Summer, p. 105: Summer uniform: Deb Wenof; white shoes: Melissa Ripke; p. 106: Suit, raincoat, umbrella: Deb Wenof; p. 107: Man wearing swimsuit: Bob Thomas/Popperfoto/Getty; swimsuits, hats: Melissa Ripke; Gable: Getty; Hockney: Michael Childers/Corbis; p. 108: Face products: Deb Wenof; foot products:
Melissa Ripke; p. 109: Stand-up paddleboarding: Quincy Dein/Getty; kiteboarding: David Puu/Corbis; cornhole
WorldMags.net
SPRING 2014
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For A Fine Day in New York (page 84), we dispatched a photographer to the
epicenter of American style to document the people so integral to the soul of the
city. We asked them to recommend the best restaurants, bars, shoemakers, and
all-purpose neck-savers. And then we made a map.
24 27
14
27
6
38
45
21
41
43
22
38
18
7 19
12
13
42
44
39
36
10
30
23
5
20
25
28
33
40
26
46
36
34
17
3
29
2
11
9
15
35
32
16
37
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y
MIKE HALL
board: Knightshade/Dreamstime.com; horseshoes: Bettman/Corbis; p. 112: Woman in deck chair: Ansa/Corbis;

Wickwood Inn: Whitman Photography; Pacuare River Lodge: courtesy Pacuare River Lodge; picnic: Jon Springer Collection/Corbis. The Information: Shopping, p. 125: Chinos, jacket, trench coat, shoe: Lauren Richards;
p. 127: Man wearing hat: Lambert/Archive Photos/Getty; p. 128: Man carrying groceries: H. Armstrong Roberts/
Corbis; man with wallet: Retrofile/Getty; man throwing cash: DeBrocke/ClassicStock/Corbis. The Information:
Maintenance, p. 147: Shoes, T-shirts, socks, underwear, sport coat: Lauren Richards; p. 148: Mothballs: Charles
D. Winters/Photo Researchers/Getty.
Esquire: The Big Black Book is published by Hearst Communications, Inc., 300 West Fifty-seventh Street, NY,
NY 10019-3797, USA; 212-649-2000. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman;
Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. Hearst Magazines Division: David Carey,
President; John P. Loughlin, Executive Vice-President and General Manager; John A. Rohan, Jr., Senior Vice-President, Finance.
2014 by Hearst Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Canada BN NBR 10231 0943 RT. Editorial and advertising offices: 300 West Fifty-seventh Street, 21st Floor, NY, NY 10019-3797. Esquire: The Big Black Book is not responsible for
return of unsolicited manuscripts or art. To purchase additional copies, visit blackbook.esquire.com. Printed in the USA.
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151
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48
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New clothes, ancient

knowledge, and timeless
know-how, including:
Cotton, silk, and

the coolest stuff in
the world
groundbreaking
ways to tie your tie.
(Not really.)
The perfect
jackets
And the
best shirts
What to drink
when youre
drinking
The Essential Guide

to Summer Living :
Dressing Up Dressing Down Watches

Cars Summer Sports Summer Shorts.
Plus: Information, Suggestions
...And Damn Good Advice.WorldMags.net
Shucking oysters,
throwing horseshoes,
and other ways to kill
some time

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$9.

The STYLE MANUAL for SUCCESSFUL MEN

Big Black Book

Its got mountains for miles and horizons

Make that the Far East, where men long

Anyone up for an open-sea sail in the

Your ultimate guide to surviving (and

(Almost) everything worth knowing about

How to keep your most valuable

ESQU I R ES BIG BL ACK BOOK

Big Black Book

The secrets behind cotton,

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Nine men of style from around

From On the Road to the

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Threading the needle (literally and

one fne day n

One mans intrepid journey through

The 41 men (and women) who stir up the

ESQU I R ES BIG BL ACK BOOK

The Editors Letter

The Resources: New York City

ESQU I R ES BIG BL ACK BOOK

ter the world is. Its exhausting. I just want what I

important, we offer a strategy for shopping, which

Leo Jung $ 6 6 2 & , $ 7 ( $ 5 7 ' , 5 ( & 7 2 5 Benjamin Caruba

Nick Sullivan D E P U T Y E D I T O R Richard Dorment

Alison Unterreiner 3 + 2 7 2 & 2 2 5 ' , 1 $ 7 2 5 Deb Wenof 3 + 2 7 2 5 ( 6 ( $ 5 & + ( 5 Myles Ashby

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