TECHNOLOGY SELECTION CRITERIA

In the textile wet processing, major emphasis usually laid on productivity and quality, whereas energy and cost
is considered as second priority. However due to the alarming increase in utility cost; maximum efforts should
be given to minimize it. It will not only help us to achieve the lower operation costs but also helpful in
standardizing the process and maintain the quality level.

STENTER

The automation of the machinery is the main aim for benchmarking in quality conscious market, which can be
achieved through the fully automatic micro processor based PLC & process visualization. Micro processor based
system provides maximum drying rates with lowest utility consumption. Heat recovery is installed on this
system which gives additional energy saving up to 15 % on drying process & up to 30% on heat setting process.
The weft straightner unit from mahlo is there to correct the bowing & unwanted skew from fabric .A residual
moisture control system is provided to increase productivity & quality of fabric.

SHRINKAGE RANGE

The fully automatic computerized system should be used for even and perfect shrinkage of fabric through the
length by adjusting automatic parameters.
The tendency of cotton is that even moisture content before sanforise helps to shrink to fabric; we installed the
fine sprinkle of water with air system from world’s best manufacture- WEKO, GERMANY.
For assistance, the pick counter meter is used for perfection of shrinking of fabrics.

THE FINISHING RANGE (STENTER)

Machine Name : Stenter

Manufacture : Monforts Textile machinery, Germany
Number of Chamber : 10
Type : oil heated, pin Chain

ABOUT THE PROCESS

Entire finishing operation started with application of the finish chemical to the fabric and passage through
stenter frame with uniform quality parameters like, temperature, nip pressure, residual moisture, temperature
on the fabric, width, skewing/bowing.
At the end of stenter, we get creaseless and final feel of fabric, which is used for sanforising.

The different processes which have been carried out using stenter are mainly-

Finishing : For all kind of fabrics to get desired feel and finish.
Heat Setting : For poly/Cotton blends to heat set polyester part.
Width Stretching : For crease removal of goods having crease.
Drying Process : To dry the wetted goods.

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MACHINE PARTS AND ITS FUNCTIONS (FROM ENTRY TO EXIT)

Adjustable Tension To maintain tension of fabric.

1 Device
2 Entry J-Box To accumulate the fabric intro J type scray to
facilitate continuous operation during batch
change.
3 E + L air guider Proper feeding of fabric to machine by guiding
selvedge.
4 Padding Mangle The finishing chemicals are feed from overhead
tank to the trough, auto level controller is
provided to maintain level of chemical.
5 Squeezing Nip To squeeze out excess chemicals evenly from
fabric for even and better penetration.
6 Weft straightener Fully automatic weft control system for skewing
(Mahlo) and bowing correction.
7 Over feeding roll device To achieve better dimensional stability throughout
the fabric
8 Fabric feeding device Fabric selvedge is feed to chain track perfectly by
using E+ L photocell type guider also provided
with uncurling device to creaseless feeding.
9 Stentering frame This frame consists of 10 heated chambers
provided with specific width adjustment through
the all heating chambers.
10 Heating chamber It consist 10 oil heated chamber facilitated with
auto temperature and humidity control valve
where actual drying operation takes place.
11 Cooling fan system To cool down the fabric by means of blowing air
through the nozzles.
12 Take off roller To taken out fabric from stentering frame by
controlling tension of fabric.
13 Moisture control sensor Three number of sensor arrange weft wise for auto
residual moisture control of fabric.
14 Cooling cylinder One watercoolled cylinder to cool down the fabric.
15 Exit J-Scray It facilitate the continuous running of machine at
the time of batch change.
16 Antistatic device Use for diffusion of antistatic charge developed
during the process.
17 Traverse roll To avoid tapering of batch.
18 Batching unit This is last part of machine and chain drive is
provided for uniform batching.

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 SHRINKAGE
MACHINE : MONFORTEX SANFORISING RANGE

MANUFACTURER : MONFORTS TEXTILE MACHINERY, GERMANY

ABOUT THE PROCESS:

Sanforizing is the process used for the preshrinking of the fabric, so as to prevent the shrinkage during its end
use. In this process, fabric passes through the heated rubber cylinder in moist condition to achieve utmost
shrinkage & then pass through the Palmer cylinder (polished steam heated cylinder wrapped with a woolen
blanket) to heat set the fabric and to get smoothness & its final feel and appearance.

The rate of the applied shrinkage decided on the basis of potential shrinkage, tested after finish.After the
completion of the sanforizing process, samples have to send to quality assurance for testing, meanwhile
confirming quality assurance approval by all aspects.

Finally, the goods are now delivered to the folding department without any non-conformity.

MACHINE PARTS & FUNCTION

1 Adjustable Tension To maintain tension of fabric.

Device
2 Entry J-Box
3 E + L selvedge guider
4 Fabric moisturizing unit
5 Fabric feeding unit
6 Rubber unit
7 Palmer unit
8 Cooling cylinder
9 Exit J-scray
10 Traverse roll
11 Batching/plating unit
To accumulate the fabric intro J type scray to
facilitate continuous operation during batch
change.
Proper feeding of fabric to machine by guiding
selvedge.
It consists of weko unit, to give the fine sprinkle of
water and a steaming cylinder with double
jacketed steam for damping, both of which
facilitated with auto control valve.
Facilitate tension less feeding, with tension
adjustable device for different weight quality.
Here fabric passes through heated rubber belt for
compression, and actual shrinkage takes place in
the same unit.
The fabric shrinkage stabilization done by here by
the means of polished steam heated cylinder
wrapped with woolen blanket.
Consists of two water cooled cylinder to cool down
the fabric as it leaves the heated cylinder.
Facilitate continuous running of the m/c during
batch change.
To avoid tapering of the batch
Last part of the m/c provided with chain drive to
assure proper batching/plating.

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PROCESS CONTROL PARAMETERS AT MONFORTS

QUALITY STEAM PRESSURE ( BAR) SPEED % MOISTURE

RUBBER UNIT PALMER UNIT ENTRY

SHIRTING
(YARN/ PIECE 2+/-1 5+/-1 60 15+/-5
DYED)

FULL WHITE
2+/-1 3+/-1 60 15+/-5
SHIRTING

BOTTOM WEIGHT 3+/-1 5+/-1 50 15+/-5

COTTON/LYCRA 2+/-1 5+/-1 60 15+/-5

P/C BLENDS 2+/-1 5+/-1 60 15+/-5

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MONFORTS SHRINKAGE RANGE

MAINTENANCE(OPERATIONAL)

S.N. ACTIVITY DURATION

1 ENTRY J BOX AND FEEDING DEVICE CLEANING DAILY

2 STEAMING CYLINDER AND WEKO UNIT CLEANING DAILY

3 RUBBER UNIT/WATER SQUEEZE ROLL CLEANING DAILY

4 RUBBER BELT AND CYLINDER(SALT REMOVING)CLEANING DAILY

5 PALMER UNIT AND WOOLEN FELT CLEANING DAILY

6 COOLING UNIT AND EXIT J BOX UNIT CLEANING DAILY

7 ALL STEAM, AIR AND WATER VALVE CHECKING DAILY

FORT
8 RUBBER BELT SPRAY AND JACKET CLEANING
NIGHT

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QUALITY REQUIREMENT

QUALITY- THE UTMOST SATISFACTION OF CONSUMER.

The factors which are used to ensure the satisfactory or expected performance of textile articles during the use
of consumer are quality requirements.

The specification on the fabric construction, being product specific is not discussed herewith. Only those
connected with appearance and performance specifications and their standard test methods are dealt with.

Table given below shows a list of standards-----

Standards Abbreviation

American association of textile chemists and colorist AATCC

American national standards institute ANSI

American society for testing & materials ASTM

Australian standards ASTM

British standards institute BS

Deutsches institute of Normung DIN

International organization of standards ISO

International wool secretriate IWS

National standards of Canada CAN

COLOR FASTNESS

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During the end use, clothing is exposed to various agencies like, washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration,
light, water, sea water, chlorinated sea water etc., which caused fading to the color, thus the color fastness
property is very important.
The rating for the color change gives a numerical assessment of how the color of the fabric under test changes
in depth and tone, while the rating for color staining allows the extent of color transfer to an adjacent undyed
fabric under the testing conditions.

TABLE:2 COLOR FASTNESS TESTS:COMMON ONES RATING

TESTS & STANDARD STANDARD TEST METHOD

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHINGTest fabric specimen kept in between undyed cloth is agitated 1-5
A)At 30 degree ce. for 30 min. In test solution at specified temp. & In duration using 5 : BEST
to 45 min. laundrometer, washwheel or gyrowash.The composite 1 : WORST
DIN 54010;13;14;17 Test AC specimen is then rinsed, sqeezed & dried.The color change &
ISO 105 C01-03-06 test A-C staining on dyed or undyed cloth are rated using grey scale.
B)As above at 60 degree ce.
DIN 54011;12;17; test A-C
ISO 105 C-04-05-06; test D-E

COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING Fabric specimens are rubbed with a dry undyed cloth as well as 1-5
DIN 54021; ISO 105X12 wet undyed cloth using a crockmeter. Staining on undyed cloth 5 : BEST
is assessed using grey scales. 1 : WORST

COLOR FASTNESS TO PERS- Test fabric specimen kept in between undyed cloth is immersed 1-5
PIRATION in washing solution; excess solution is removed & dried at 40 5 : BEST
DIN 54020 ISO 10SE04 deg.ce. For 4 hrs., the color change & staining on undyed cloth 1 : WORST
are rated using grey scales.

COLOR FASTNESS TO LIGHT Fabric specimen,together with blue wool light fastness standard 1-8
DIN 54004 ISO 105B02 is expected to a mercury vapour lamp. Fading and color change 8: BEST
are rated against the standard 1: WORST

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

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 For garments, dimensional stability is of paramount importance. Garments, during their
wearing as well as washing/dry cleaning, should not shrink or elongate. The
dimensional stability of a fabric or garment is assessed by simulating the wear and
wash/dry-clean conditions of its use.

Table 3 :- Dimensional stability Tests

TESTS & STANDARDS STANDARD TEST METHODS RATINGS
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE DUE TO FABRIC OR GARMENT SPECIMEN IS MARKED, GIVEN IN
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING: MEASURED AND WASHED AT 50-70 D.C. AS + OR -
DIN 54024 SPECIFIED, UNDER SIMULATING CARE INSTRUCTIONS. CHANGE AS
ISO 6330 SPECIMEN IS THEN DRIED,CONDITIONED AND THE %
RESULTANT PERCENT DIMENSIONAL CHANGES ARE +:ELONGATION
MEASURED AND CALCULATED FOR EACH -:SHRINKAGE
FABRIC DIMENSION OR GARMENT DIMENSION.

RESISTANCE TO PILLING

Pilling refers to the formation of piles on the fabric surface, which gives an unsightly
appearance. It caused due to entanglement of fibres arising from fabric to fabric or fabric to
other surface contact. Pilling appears during wear, washing or dry-cleaning. The cause of
pilling is attributable to fibre Content, fabric construction and the imparted finish.

(commonly used for woven and rub for 100 rubs. Fabric to fabric rubbing takes place 5: BEST
fabrics) without load. Pilling is assessed by comparing rubbed 1: WORST
IWSTM 196 specimens holders with standard photographs.

B) PILLBOX METHOD: fabric specimen are mounted on polyurethene tubes and 1-5
(commonly used for tumbled randomly under defined condition in a cork-lined box for 5: BEST
knitted fabrics) BS5811 14,400 revolutions.change in surface appearance is assessed
by using a descriptive scale.

** FABRIC STRENGTH

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 This Quality is assessed by measuring tearing force and breaking force of the fabric.
Tearing and breaking strengths of fabric depends mainly on construction details and the finish
Imparted to the fabric .

.
Table 5: Strength Tests
MINIMUM SPECIFICATIONS*
TEST & STANDARD STANDARD TEST METHOD (WOVEN FABRIC)
A) TEARING FORCE : Elemendor is a falling pendulum apparatus. Class A:12N
Elemendor Metho The average force requires to complete a tear in afabric Class B:10N
ASTMD 1424 iITS determinded by measuring the work carried out in Class C:8N
tearing the fabric through a standard distance. Class D:6N

B) Breaking force Fabric specimen is gripped in jaws of a Class A:220N

(Revelled stripe or cut stripe) tensile testing machine of suitable capacity and extended Class B :190N
ASTMD 1682 unit it breaks. The breaking force and extention at work Class C: 160N
D 5034; D 5035 are recovered Class D: 120N
ISO 5081: 5082

For each direction of fabric:

CLASS A: Body hugging garments;
CLASS B: Stress subjected garments
CLASS C: Other normal fitting garments
CLASS D: Loose fitting garments