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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Milan
Autumn 2015

ExpoinCittà
events calendar
Read our top picks

inyourpocket.com
Contents
Arriving & Transport 5
City basics 10
History 15
Culture & Events 17
Restaurants 21
Cafés 24
Nightlife 25
Sightseeing 27
Shopping 35
Directory 38
Where to sleep 39
Maps & Index
Public transport maps 43
City centre map 46
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II © Adrienne Baumann
Expo 2015 map 48
Index 50
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Editor-in-Chief: Lorenzo Marsano


Contributor: Adrienne Baumann
Layout: Tomáš Haman
Maps: courtesy of Regione Lombardia, Touring Editore
Cover photo: Giotto, l’Italia. Da Assisi a Milano: Baroncelli
Polyptych - courtesy of Basilica di Santa Croce, Florence/Fondo
Edifici di culto del Ministero dell’Interno/Mondadori Portfolio/
Domenico Ventura/Rome

Sales & Circulation Manager: Roberta Greco


© Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci (mob. +39 344 082 93 44, sales.milan@inyourpocket.com)

Special Thanks: Rosa and Martín


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In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) © IYP Italia S.r.l.
Over the past few months we have gradually been 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
putting together some extensive video guides to
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
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writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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Autumn 2015 3
Foreword
If we could set the current mood in Milan to music, is on the final act of this large-scale libretto. At press time
then surely the score would be escalating to a rousing it was too early to say if expectations had been met in
crescendo with a fanfare of brass instruments, a mighty numbers, but figures aside, Milan has already exceeded
clash of cymbals and a heart-thumping aria that brings every expectation in our eyes. Never before has the
the audience to their feet. October 31 marks the grand city shone so brightly or performed so well. Under the
finale for Milan as the host of Expo 2015, and the city’s international spotlight she rose to the occasion as soon
celebratory atmosphere is fortissimo. as the curtains parted, and every theatre, museum,
restaurant, shop, landmark, and venue big or small rose
Indeed, those of you lucky enough to visit Milan in this with her in melodious harmony.
period are witnessing a triumphant moment in the
city and Italy’s history. After two years of fast-paced Milan In Your Pocket is overwhelmingly proud to present
and seemingly impossible preparations for Expo 2015, this grand spectacle to you, and we hope you will join us
including major renovations to airports, highways, the in giving Milan’s cast of thousands, both on the stage and
metro system, landmarks, and much more citywide, Milan behind the scenes, a rousing round of applause.

© Fabio Sironi

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4 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com


Arriving & Transport
BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO AIRPORT
BY PLANE Bergamo’s airport, located just 45km outside of Milan in
MILANO MALPENSA AIRPORT Orio al Serio, handles national, international and budget
Milan’s main airport is found in Ferno, about 50km from the flights. The fastest and easiest way to reach Milan from
city centre. Terminal 1 is for intercontinental, international this airport is via the array of buses waiting just outside
and domestic flights, while Terminal 2 is for charter flights the Arrivals section bound for Centrale railway station.
and budget airlines. Although they are managed by various companies, all
Trenord’s Malpensa Express train (www.malpensaexpress. charge €5 per trip, and many offer a roundtrip ticket for €9.
it, (+39) 02 85 11 43 82) runs trains daily out of Terminal The drive lasts about 50 minutes, depending on traffic.
1 to and from both Centrale and Cadorna railway stations. The Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com, (+39) 035 31 93 66)
Trains bound for Centrale leave daily at 43 and 56 minutes runs daily to Centrale railway station every 30 minutes from
past the hour, and take about 45 minutes. Trains to Cadorna 03:00 - 23:40. The tickets are €4 one-way, €9 round-trip if
occur 22 times daily, with stops along the way at Bovisa/ purchased online; tickets bought on-site are €5 one-way,
Politecnico, Saronno and Busto Arsizio, and take about 30 €10 round-trip. Sporting equipment and bags beyond the
minutes. Trains to Porta Garibaldi run 18 times daily with luggage limit cost an additional €5 per piece.
additional stops along the way. Tickets cost €12 one-way, Autostradale buses (www.autostradale.it, (+39) 02 72 00
€18 round-trip, and can be bought online or at the Trenord 13 04) runs buses daily to Centrale railway station every
desks in the airport and at stations where the Malpensa 30 minutes from 04:30 - 01:00. Tickets are €5 one-way, €9
Express stops. They cost more if purchased on board, and round-trip. All luggage rides for free.
must be stamped in the machines, usually yellow, on the Terravision buses (www.terravision.eu) runs daily to Centrale
platform prior to boarding to avoid fines. railway station every 20 minutes during the early morning and
The Malpensa Shuttle bus (www.malpensashuttle.com, every 30 minutes during the day, from 04:05 - 01:00. Tickets are
(+39) 03 31 25 84 11) departs every 20 minutes from 06:20 - €5 one-way, €9 round-trip. All luggage rides for free.
00:15 from Terminal 1, 10 minutes later from Terminal 2), and Although there is no direct rail link between the airport and
stops at Fiera Milanocity upon request en route to Centrale Bergamo’s train station, the ATB bus 1C runs there every
railway station. Tickets, which cost €10 one-way and €16 30 minutes from 05:00 - 24:00 (journey time ten minutes,
round-trip, can be bought in the airport arrivals hall, at most ticket €1.80), and from the station you can catch a train to
newsstands at Centrale railway station, and at the bus. Centrale or Porta Garibaldi (duration 40-50 minutes, ticket
Autostradale’s Malpensa Airport Bus Express (www. €4.80 - €5.50, depending on the train).QVia Aeroporto 13,
airportbusexpress.it, (+39) 02 240 7954) leaves every 20 Orio al Serio, tel. (+39) 035 32 63 23, www.sacbo.it.
minutes (06:00 - 00:30) takes about 50 minutes. Tickets cost
€10 one-way and €16 round-trip, and can be purchased in
the arrivals terminal at the airport, in piazza Luigi di Savoia BY TRAIN
(E-1) by Centrale railway station, or on the bus. MILANO CENTRALE RAILWAY STATION
Taxis between Malpensa and Milan have the fee set at €70, Milano Centrale is Italy’s second largest train station, both in
but ask to be sure. The journey takes about 45 minutes, size and in traffic, and is located northeast of the city centre.
more during rush hour.QFerno, tel. (+39) 02 23 23 23, From here, about 600 trains per day run to most major cities
www.milanomalpensa-airport.com. in the country; it is the main junction for High Speed rail
and links with the rest of Europe. As always, tickets must be
MILANO LINATE AIRPORT validated before boarding the train. Inside this monolithic
Milan’s national airport is located in Segrate, about 7km from structure you can purchase tickets via machines and at ticket
the city centre. It handles domestic and continental flights. counters, change money, visit the post office, rent a car, shop
There is no train connection into Milan from Linate, but the and dine. Travellers who wish to safely deposit their bags
ATM bus 73 (05:35 - 00:35) leaves every 10 minutes daily from in the station before visiting the city can leave luggage
the airport and San Babila metro station (D-4), and the X73 at KiPoint on the ground level (€6 for the first five hours).
(07:00 - 20:00) leaves every 20 minutes on weekdays. Travel Busy taxi ranks can be found on the left side of the station as
time is approximately 25 minutes, but keep in mind that rush- you exit.QE-1, Piazza Duca D’Aosta 1, MCentrale FS, tel.
hour traffic could push this to 40 minutes. An ordinary €1.50 (+39) 02 667 35 11, www.milanocentrale.it.
city bus ticket is valid for the service. Starfly services (tel. (+39)
02 58 58 72 37) leave Linate every 30 minutes for Centrale MILANO CADORNA RAILWAY STATION
railway station (07:45 - 22:45), with a stop on the way at Cadorna Railway Station services the Malpensa Express train,
Lambrate railway station. Tickets cost €5 one-way, €10 round- as well as commuter, suburban, regional and express trains, all
trip, and must be bought from the driver upon boarding. of which are operated by Trenord. It is equipped with an ATM
As Linate is not far outside of town, taxis to or from the and ticket booths, and a My Link Point customer care counter,
airport generally cost €20-25 if the cab runs via a meter. open weekdays 07:00 - 20:00 and weekends and holidays 08:00
Fixed price taxis are €50; be sure to verify which one you - 16:30, to provide information, assist disabled passengers,
take to avoid being overcharged if your journey is on the and track lost property or luggage. Tickets must be validated
shorter end.QViale Enrico Forlanini, Segrate, tel. (+39) before boarding the train.QB-4, Piazzale Luigi Cadorna 14,
02 23 23 23, www.milanolinate-airport.com. MCadorna FN, tel. (+39) 02 72 49 44 94, www.trenord.it.
Autumn 2015 5
Arriving & Transport
MILANO PORTA GARIBALDI RAILWAY STATION
This station is connected to the main Italian cities and hosts BICYCLE SHARING
both an above-ground and an underground station. It contains Between the aggressive drivers, tram tracks, and cobblestone
shops, commercial areas, bars and ATMs. It also houses a My streets, biking in Milan is not for the faint of heart. However,
Link Point customer care counter, open weekdays 06:45 - with the introduction of cyclist paths and increased bike-
20:45 and weekends and holidays 08:00 - 16:30, to provide sharing service locations, cycling is getting a little easier.
information, assist disabled passengers, and track lost property
or luggage. Tickets must be validated before boarding the BIKEMI
train.QC-1, Piazza Sigmund Freud 1, MGaribaldi FS, tel. BikeMi is a public bike-sharing service within Milan,
(+39) 02 655 20 78, www.trenitalia.com. allowing users to open a subscription annually (€36),
weekly (€6), or daily (€2.50), from 07:00 - 24:00 for 365 days
per year. The first 30 minutes of each ride are free; after
BY BUS that, it costs €0.50 for every half hour period. Bikes can be
LAMPUGNANO BUS STATION picked up from and returned to a BikeMi station, scattered
Milan’s central bus station is found northwest of the city strategically around the city centre and accessible points
centre. A useful source for timetables is http://orariautobus. beyond. Open a subscription on the website, in an ATM
it, which is not the official site of the bus station but it links Point, or by calling.Qtel. (+39) 02 48 60 76 07, www.
to coach companies that stop in Milan. Both Autostradale bikemi.com.
(www.autostradale.it, (+39) 02 72 00 13 04) and Eurolines
(www.eurolines.it, (+39) 086 11 99 19 00) run international
coaches through this station.QVia Giulio Natta 15, BUS TRANSPORT
MLampugnano, tel. (+39) 02 30 08 91. LUGANO SERVICES
On the lush banks of Lake Ceresio lies Campione d’Italia, the
only Italian exclave in Switzerland and home to Europe’s
BY CAR grandest casino, a haven for international figures and
Milan has highway access from all directions, making the city celebrities for over a century. Just 60km from Milan, this
extremely accessible by car. The city’s ring road, divided into opulent venue offering gaming, shows, concerts and more
the eastern Tangenziale Est and the western Tangenziale can easily be reached thanks to Lugano Services, a private
Ovest, is the end point of a number of main regional bus transport company that ferries customers in comfort
highways, including the A4 coming from Turin, Venice and from Milan to Campione d’Italia and back several times a
Verona, the A1 connecting Milan and Bologna, Florence and day. A round trip ticket from Malpensa and Linate airports
Rome, the A7 coming from Genoa and Liguria, and the A8/ or Central Station is just 20 euro, and all passengers receive
A9 that go to Switzerland and Lakes Como and Maggiore. a 20 euro voucher good for gambling at the casino.
Short-term visitors will have no problem driving with If shopping for brand name apparel tops your list while
the licence of their home country, although those with a visiting Milan, then hop on a Lugano Services bus
licence written in different alphabets or scripts may find an to FoxTown Factory Stores in Switzerland, an outlet
international licence useful. Driving licences issued by other extravaganza boasting three kilometres of windows, 160
EU countries are valid in Italy, and there is never an obligation stores and 250 high-end brands. Find incredible discounts
to convert them. Other licences, however, must be converted of 30-70% on names like Armani, Burberry, Dolce &
after the owner has been resident in Italy for one year. Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Hogan, Missoni, Pollini, Polo Ralph
The speed limit on motorways is 130 km/h, on dual Lauren, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tod’s, Valentino, Versace
carriageway roads is 110 km/h, on non-urban roads is 90 and more. Running seven days a week throughout the day,
km/h, in urban areas 50 km/h, unless otherwise indicated Lugano Services is a truly convenient and inexpensive
by road signs. way to travel to Switzerland for an outing with friends
It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. and family.QCorso Elvezia 10, Lugano (Switzerland),
Headlights have to be always turned on when driving on tel. (+41) 091 922 67 03, info@luganoservices.ch, www.
non-urban roads. Drinking and driving is heavily fined. luganoservices.ch. A
The legal limit is 0.5 g/l.
It is important to know that large sections of Milan have
been pedestrianised and are closed to traffic at all times. CAR RENTAL
Area C (www.comune.milano.it/areac) is the city centre with To rent a car in Italy you must be over 21 and have held a
precise traffic restrictions in effect Monday-Wednesday driver’s license for at least a year. You will also be asked to
and Friday from 07:30 - 19:30, Thursday from 07:30 - 18:00. present a passport or valid ID at the time of hire. If renting
Admittance to Area C for one day can be purchased for €5 by a car with children, you must also rent the appropriate seat
midnight of the previous day, or €15 for deferred payments. or cushion for their safety.
Register online or call the Area C offices at (+39) 02 48 68 40
01. Violations of the policy will result in a fine and a wheel- AVIS (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO AIRPORT)
clamp, if parked. The fast lanes that form the central parts of QVia Aeroporto 13, Orio al Serio, tel. (+39) 035 31 01 92,
ring roads are strictly reserved for buses and taxis. www.avis.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
6 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Transport
AVIS (CITY) convenient. But there are always occasion that require a car,
QD-4, Piazza Armando Diaz 6, MMissori, tel. (+39) and when they arrive, both locals and tourists turn to the
02 89 01 06 45, www.avis.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat following stand-bys.
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
TWIST
AVIS (MILANO LINATE AIRPORT) After registering for a Twist Card, through demonstrating
QViale Enrico Forlanini, Segrate, tel. (+39) 02 71 51 23, a valid driver’s licence, you can reserve cars via the
www.avis.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. geolocalized app and take it for a spin at the rate of €0.27
per minute. Stopovers cost €0.17 per minute, and hourly
AVIS (MILANO MALPENSA AIRPORT T2) usage is €14.90 (the first 50km are free). The maximum 24-
QFerno, tel. (+39) 02 585 84 81/(+39) 02 58 58 38 03, hour charge is €59. In the event that you have to refuel, your
www.avis.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. card will be credited with 20 minutes of compensational
drive-time. Twist grants access to the central Area C traffic
EUROPCAR (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO zone, and parking is allowed anywhere on yellow and blue
AIRPORT) lines.QD-2, Via Daniele Manin 33, MRepubblica, tel.
QVia Aeroporto 13, Orio al Serio, tel. (+39) 035 31 86 22, 800 97 58 07, www.twistcar.it.
www.europcar.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

EUROPCAR (CITY) PUBLIC TRANSPORT


QC-5, Via Achille Mauri 4, MMissori, tel. (+39) 02 86 46 The Azienda Trasporti Milanesi (ATM) and the services
34 54, www.europcar.com. Open 08:00 - 12:30, 14:00 - they operate are the core of Milan’s public transport system.
19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. It is fairly safe, even at night, and reliably on time. The urban
network is made up of four underground metro lines,
EUROPCAR (MILANO LINATE AIRPORT) the Line 1 (red), Line 2 (green), Line 3 (yellow) and Line 5
QViale Enrico Forlanini, Segrate, tel. (+39) 02 76 11 02 (violet). Stations are marked with a red ‘M,’ and an additional
58, www.europcar.com. Open 07:30 - 23:30. service connecting the city with outlying suburban areas,
the passante ferroviario urban railway, is indicated in blue
EUROPCAR (MILANO MALPENSA AIRPORT T2) on maps and shown with the letter ‘R’ above ground.
QFerno, tel. (+39) 02 58 58 35 26/(+39) 02 58 58 13 Metro trains run daily from 06:00 - 00:30 every 4-7 minutes,
54, www.europcar.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 and more frequently during rush hour. After 21:00, services
- 23:30. run every 10-12 minutes and maintenance work at night
can cause additional delays. After 00:30, night buses
HERTZ (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO AIRPORT) replace the metro lines until about 02:00 on week nights,
QVia Aeroporto 13, Orio al Serio, tel. (+39) 035 31 12 58, and throughout the night on Fridays and Saturdays. All
www.hertz.com. Open 07:30 - 00:30. ATM bus and tram services (except the specific nocturnal
lines) run daily between 06:00 and midnight. Each bus
HERTZ (MILANO CENTRALE RAILWAY STATION) stop shows all the stops made along the route, as well as
QE-1, Via Alfredo Cappellini 10, MCentrale FS, tel. a timetable.
(+39) 02 66 98 51 51, www.hertz.com. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

HERTZ (MILANO LINATE AIRPORT)


QViale Enrico Forlanini, Segrate, tel. (+39) 02 70 20 02
56, www.hertz.com. Open 07:30 - 00:30.

HERTZ (MILANO MALPENSA AIRPORT T1)


QFerno, tel. (+39) 02 58 58 10 81, www.hertz.com.
Open 07:30 - 24:00.

HERTZ (MILANO PORTA GARIBALDI RAILWAY


STATION)
QC-1, Piazza Sigmund Freud, MGaribaldi FS, tel. (+39)
02 669 00 61, www.hertz.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

CAR SHARING
Car sharing is the ideal solution for city dwellers reluctant to
invest in a vehicle when public transportation is often more © Metro 5 S.p.A.

Autumn 2015 7
Arriving & Transport
ATM’s request-only bus service, Radiobus (13:00 - 02:00 the company of a friendly man-about-town driver. It’s truly
daily, (+39) 02 48 03 48 03) will pick you up upon request a novel way to enjoy the sites of Milan from the slow-lane
made at least three days in advance. It is rarely used; tickets while promoting improved urban livability. Options include
are €1.50 at sale points and €3 on the bus. city tours and shopping tours, departing from piazza
Before boarding, you must buy an ATM ticket, which can be Castello (B/C-3), piazza del Liberty (D-4) and piazza XXV
purchased at ATM points, from ticket machines inside the Aprile (C-2).QMCairoli, San Babila, Moscova, tel. (+39)
metro station for as long as metro service is running, and at 342 975 26 17, info@veloleo.it, www.veloleo.it. €45 per
tobacconists, bars, and most newsstands. If you are caught hour per vehicle, or €80 for two hours.
without a ticket, you will be fined €36 and up without mercy.
Swipe your ticket in the electronic machines on buses and
trams; enter it into the turnstile at metro stations. The same TAXIS
tickets are valid on all ATM bus, tram and metro lines within Licensed taxis are white and meter-operated. Most of
the inner city; travel beyond city zones cost more. Milan’s taxi drivers are honest and friendly; however, if you
A single urban ticket costs €1.50 and is valid for 90 minutes suspect you are being ripped off, take note of the driver’s
from when it is stamped; it can be used on unlimited ATM name and number, displayed on the metal plaque inside
trams and buses on the inner-city network, plus one trip on the car’s rear door. The more conspicuously you do so, the
the metro or the passante. A biglietto serale, (€3) is valid from more likely you are to have the fare drop to its proper level.
20:00 until the end of service. A biglietto giornaliero (€4.50) Report misdemeanours to the driver’s company or co-
is valid for unlimited use for 24 hours from time of purchase. operative, on the outside of each door.
A biglietto bigiornaliero (€8.25) is valid for unlimited use for When you pick up a taxi at a taxi stand or hail one in the
48 hours from time of purchase. The settimanale 2x6 ticket street, the meter should read zero. As the ride begins, it will
(€10) can be used for two trips of up to 90 minutes per day, show the minimum fare (€3.20 at time of writing) for the
Monday - Saturday. If one day is missed, you can use it on first 200 metres, after which the charge increases by €1.06
Sunday. The carnet (€13.80) is a ticket worth ten trips, not to per kilometre. On Sundays, public holidays, and at night,
be used by more than one person. the minimum fare rises to €6.20. When phoning a cab,
Upon request at an ATM point (located in the metro stations at you’ll be told the location, the taxi number, and the minutes
Duomo, Cadorna FN, Loreto, Centrale FS and Romolo), you can estimated until arrival. Keep in mind that the meter starts
submit a passport-sized photo to purchase a €10 magnetic from the moment the taxi sets out to pick you up.
pass that is rechargeable. With this card, the abbonamento Many taxi drivers do not speak English, so it’s a good idea
settimanale (€11.30) is valid for a week’s worth of unlimited to write down the address of the destination or phone
use of urban transport. The abbonamento mensile (€35) someone who can explain it to the driver.
provides one month of unlimited use of urban transport.
Students and under-26 pay just €22. RADIOTAXI 028585
Additional information on routes, tickets, changes, and Qtel. (+39) 02 85 85, www.028585.it.
pre-announced strikes can be found at ATM Points (if you
want to brave the queues), on the ATM website, or by TAXI BLU
calling freephone, also in English. A comprehensive city Qtel. (+39) 02 40 40, www.taxiblu.it.
transport map can be purchased at ATM Points and most
newsstands for €5. YELLOW TAXI
Qtel. (+39) 02 69 69, www.026969.it.
ATMQtel. 800 80 81 81, www.atm.it.
UBER
RICKSHAW Since coming to Milan, the ever-popular Uber service has
VELOLEO been shrouded in controversy amid protests and claims
Ever wondered what it would be like to import the from local taxi drivers that its policy violates the rules of
rickshaw experience to a cosmopolitan European city? You competition. In fact, at press time, UberPop has been
now have the opportunity to find out, thanks to VeloLeo’s suspended in Milan following a court sentence. Although
environmentally friendly rickshaw, a three-wheeled device the government has yet to make a clear statement about
with a driver at the pedals and room for two in the back the legislation, UberBlack and UberVan are fully effective in
as well as a child up to age seven (with plenty of leg- the city. Download the app, connected directly to a credit
room for all). It’s the perfect answer to the question of card, for access. Pricing begins with a €2 base fare, with the
sustainable mobility, particularly given Italy’s fondness for addition of €0.20 per minute and €0.35 per kilometre. The
wheels. The rickshaws do not pollute and are completely minimum fare is €5, and there is a €5 cancellation fee. Flat
noiseless, a refreshing alternative in a town buzzing with rates are available for airport service; €45 between the city
the blare of traffic. The service is tailored to those seeking and Malpensa Airport, in either direction, and €50 to and
a convenient, zero-impact means of transportation for a from Bergamo Orio al Serio Airport, in either direction.
short period of time. With the VeloLeo, you travel first-class,
under the protective barrier from the sun and rain, and in UBERQwww.uber.com/cities/milan.
8 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
City basics
FACTS & FIGURES ELECTRICITY
Electricity in Italy is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
A few things you might want to know about Italy. and take three round pins. If you are coming from the US,
Canada, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as
Area: 301,340km2 well as from many other countries.
Population: 60,782,027
Capital city: Rome (pop. 2,870,528)
Other cities: Milan (pop. 1,331,715), Naples (989,846), HEALTH & PHARMACIES
Turin (900,372), Palermo (677,015), Genoa (594,774) Emergency treatment is available to all travellers through
Highest point: Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco, 4,810m) the Italian healthcare system, as the law dictates that
Longest river: Po (652km) hospital emergency rooms (pronto soccorso) must treat
Largest lake: Garda (368km2) emergency cases for free. Before travelling to Italy, EU
citizens should obtain the free-of-charge EHIC (European
Health Insurance Card). This document is equivalent to
DISABLED TRAVELLERS Lombardy’s Carta Regionale dei Servizi, which permits
Many hotels, restaurants, and sights in Milan are well- you to consult a national health service doctor without the
equipped for visitors in wheelchairs or for those requiring bill. Drugs prescribed by this professional can be bought
assistance (care-givers accompanying disabled guests by pharmacists at prices set by the health ministry. Tests or
receive free admission to sights and museums upon specialized outpatient treatment have fixed rates. Non-EU
request); however, the city still contains many old buildings visitors will be charged a small fee at the doctor’s discretion.
with narrow corridors and closet-sized restroom facilities Pharmacists are the Italian’s go-to source for health
that have somehow resisted accessibility updating. information; not only do they give informal medical advice
Check the symbols below our hotel reviews, sightseeing for common ailments, but they can also recommend
locations, and dining destinations to determine suitability. local doctors and provide you with addresses and info for
It is also important to note that not all metro stations laboratories to have tests done. The pharmacies, marked by
include elevators and escalators from ground level to a green cross, also sell homeopathic medicines, and over-
platform. While all the Line 3 (yellow) and Line 5 (violet) the-counter drugs such as ibuprofen or aspirin are much
metro stops are fully accessible by elevators, the older more expensive in Italy than in the US or UK. It is useful to
Line 1 (red) and Line 2 (green) have limitations. Stations know the active ingredient or generic name for medications
currently fitted with lifts are: you may need, as they are likely marketed domestically
Line 1: Sesto Marelli, Gorla, Loreto, Porta Venezia, under different names. Normal opening hours are 08:30 -
Palestro, San Babila, Cordusio, Cairoli, Cadorna FN, Pagano, 12:30 and 15:30 - 19:30 Monday through Saturday. Outside
Amendola, Fiera, Lampugnano, Bonola, Gambara, Bande of regular hours, a duty rotation operates with 24-hour
Nere, Inganni. service, or you can check www.turnifarmacie.it. Next to
Line 2: Cascina Gobba, Udine, Lambrate FS, Piola, Loreto, the door of all pharmacies you will find a glass-enclosed list
Centrale FS, Gioia, Garibaldi FS, Cadorna FN, Sant’Ambrogio, of open pharmacies nearby, and you can also call 800 80
Sant’Agostino, Porta Genova FS, Romolo. 11 85 to locate the nearest open pharmacy.
If you require assistance, ask the guard at the entry and exit
ticket turnstiles. For more information, call the free phone
hotline at 800 80 81 81, or check the website www.atm.it.
The Radiobus service also has lifts for wheelchairs and audio SYMBOL KEY
messages for the blind. In stations and airports, a texturized
rubber strip along the floor of corridors is designed to help P Air conditioning T Child-friendly
guide and orientate the blind or visually impaired.
H Conference facilities A Credit cards accepted
Trenitalia is slowly introducing easy-access carriages but
accessibility is still spotty. Trains fitted with wheelchair lifts U Facilities for the F Fitness centre
are indicated with a wheelchair symbol on all timetables. disabled
Call (+39) 02 67 07 09 58 to arrange help for boarding
L Guarded parking R LAN connection
or disembarking from trains at Centrale, Cadorna and
Porta Garibaldi railway stations. It is advisable to call ahead E Live music N No credit cards
to flag the request. For night travel (22:00 - 06:00), call 12
hours ahead. For help on international trains, make the J Old town location 6 Pet-friendly
request two days in advance.
K Restaurant D Sauna
Transport to Linate (bus 73) and Malpensa (Malpensa
Express) airports is wheelchair-friendly. If you prefer a taxi, C Swimming pool Y Tourist Card
be sure to book the car well in advance, specifying when
you need a car large enough to fit a wheelchair (sedia a w Wellness W Wi-Fi
rotelle in Italian).
10 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
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OR IN STORE AT THE MilanTourismPoint IN MILAN!
City basics
OSPEDALE DEI BAMBINI VITTORE BUZZI
Obstetrics and paediatrics.QA-1, Via Lodovico Castelvetro EMERGENCY NUMBERS
32, tel. (+39) 02 57 991, www.icp.mi.it/buzzi.
Carabinieri 112
OSPEDALE FATEBENEFRATELLI Police (Polizia) 113
QD-2, Corso di Porta Nuova 23, MMoscova,
Repubblica, tel. (+39) 02 63 631, www.fbfmilano.com. Fire Brigade (Vigili del fuoco) 115
Emergency Medical Assistance 118
OSPEDALE MAGGIORE POLICLINICO (Emergenza sanitaria)
QD-5, Via Francesco Sforza 28-35, MCrocetta, tel. (+39)
02 550 35 01, www.policlinico.mi.it. Metropolitan Police (Polizia Municipale) (+39) 02 02 08

OSPEDALE NIGUARDA
Renowed throughout the country for its poison
department.QPiazza Dell’Ospedale Maggiore 3, MCa’ LOCAL TIME
Granda, tel. (+39) 02 64 441, www.ospedaleniguarda.it. From March 29th to October 25th, Italy is in the Central
European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest of the
year the clock ticks according to the Central European Time
INTERNET & WI-FI Zone, or GMT+1.
The Rete Pubblica Milanese provides free Wi-Fi connectivity
for the city of Milan, available both inside and outside via two
different services. Free Wi-Fi Indoor is available within public MOBILE PHONES
buildings and some museum spaces, while Open Wi-Fi Thanks to the ongoing regulatory efforts at the EU-level,
Milano functions outside in various piazzas and streets. Users mobile phone roaming rates are capped across all EU
are alloted a daily data limit of 300MB for internet browsing; member states including Italy, which means that you
once you use it up, you have one hour of continued high can expect to pay only €0.24 per minute for outgoing
speed navigation before it drops off until midnight, when the calls, €0.07 per minute for incoming calls and €0.08 per
system resets. To access the Wi-Fi, select the openwifimilano SMS sent.
network on your device, enter your mobile phone number to Depending on your phone usage, it’s well worth
register, and your password will be sent to you. considering buying a local SIM card that you simply use in
Inside of private establishments, free high-speed Wi-Fi is your own phone. A prepaid account starts from around €20.
an increasingly common feature, particularly in hotels, To purchase one you need to show your ID card or passport.
restaurants, bars, and cafés. Simply request the network
name and password from the waiter or the front desk.
Cybercafés are less and less common on the ground, and MONEY
likely to be pricey. Italy uses the euro (€) with banknotes in denominations
of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, designed
according to the country in which they were minted, come
LANGUAGE in denominations of €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50,
The official language of Italy is Italian, a Romance €1 and €2.
language nuanced by its melodic cadence. Speakers of ATMs, or bancomat, can be found all over the city, and
Spanish and French will have a relatively easy time of while they may charge a small fee, they are the best way
understanding due to the frequency of cognates and to take out cash - a crucial accessory in a country where
similar grammatical structures. While the Milanese dialect many establishments and services do not accept credit
was once commonplace in the region, now you will only cards. Despite this fondness for cash, credit cards are the
hear it spoken by the oldest generation, with possible most common method of payment in hotels and high-end
Milan-specific slang uttered by young people. shopping locations. Public services such as public transport
English is a mandatory part of school curriculum from are relatively cheap, with a host of benefits and discounts
elementary school up through high school, and many available for students and seniors.
universities are now also requiring student applicants Commission rates vary greatly depending on the
to demonstrate a minimum level of English. However, bureau de change. Out to make the most off you
theoretical studies are a far cry from practical usage, and are exchange offices in the airports; it is advisable to
while most young Italians do have some English under wait to change money until you are in the city, and
their belts, they are often hesitant to use it. Do not count banks usually offer better exchange rates than private
on middle-aged or older Italians being conversational in bureaux. Avoid places displaying ‘no commission’ signs;
the language. The police station usually has an officer or they are certain to offer bad rates. Main post offices
two on hand who can get by with tourists and foreigners, also have exchange bureaux, but they don’t accept
but ironically, it is nearly guaranteed that no one at the travellers’ cheques. Take a passport or valid ID with you
immigration office will speak English. when dealing with money.
12 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
City basics
POST WEATHER
Italy’s posta prioritaria, the local equivalent of first-class
post, generally works well. It promises delivery within 24 110 30
hours domestically, three days for EU countries, and a week 100 25
for the rest of the world. 20

Temperature °C
Rainfall (mm)
90
Stamps are sold at post offices and tobacconists (marked 15
out front by a large T) only. Most post boxes are red with 80
10
two slots, one marked per la città (for Milan), and the 70
other marked per tutte le altre destinazioni (for all other 5
destinations). 60 0
Many post offices have long opening hours (08:00 - 19:00), 50 -5
while the rest maintain the traditional 08:00 - 14:00 Monday Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

through Friday, and 08:30 - 12:00 on Saturday and any day Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C)
before a public holiday. Each post office displays a list at the
door of the nearest open one when it is closed. For further
postal information, phone the central information office SAFETY
(80 31 60) or visit www.poste.it. Milan is a fairly safe city. However, as in any cosmopolitan
centre, petty crime does occur, and conspicuous tourists
are more susceptible to theft and pickpocketing. Petty
RELIGION criminals most often work in pairs of small groups,
Religion in Italy is characterized by the predominance primarily targeting public transportation and tourist areas.
of Catholicism, with some 88% of the population It is advisable for everyone to be careful, and women in
belonging to the Roman Catholic Church. Only around particular, around Centrale railway station and parks at
one third of these view themselves as actively religious, night, and exercise basic precautions.
but the culture of Catholicism is woven into the fabric of Keep bags and purses tightly closed with your hands on
the country. 10% of the population are equally divided them when using public transportation, and don’t store
between atheists and agnostics, while 5% are affiliated wallets in your back pocket. If your bag or camera has a long
with different creeds. strap, wear it across the front of your body. When walking
The Archdiocese of Milan, a metropolitan see of the down a street, move bags or purses to the side of your body
Roman Catholic Church, was established as early as farthest from the traffic, so you’re less likely to be a target
200AD, and maintains its own Latin liturgical Ambrosian for drive-by motorcycle thieves. When dining, do not hang
rite. Within the city you can also find Evangelical and bags over the back of your chair; thieves may stroll through
Methodist churches, as well as mosques, synagogues, classy establishments collecting items of value. When
Buddhist temples, and Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- shopping, don’t set down bags to try on clothes or shoes.
day Saints. Even children are often perpetrators; ragged appearance
and small groups may be indicators.
If you are the victim of crime, call the police helpline or
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS go directly to the nearest police station to report a theft
(furto). You will be asked to assist in compiling the written
There are a number of public holidays in Italy. On these report (denuncia), which is required to make an insurance
days city councils, post offices and banks are closed. claim. If possible, bring someone who speaks Italian with
Some shops, restaurants, museums and attractions you to file the report.
may also close or have reduced opening hours. When
in doubt, call ahead! SMOKING & ALCOHOL
Jan 1 New Year’s Day In Italy, approximately one quarter of the population
Jan 6 Epiphany smokes. While groups of people can regularly be found
Mar 27-28, 2016 Easter gathered curb-side lighting up, smoking is not permitted
Apr 25 Liberation Day in any indoor public place, including all bars, nightclubs,
May 1 Labour Day and restaurants. This rule is strictly enforced, and violators
Jun 2 Republic Day will incur a fine. Cigarettes can only be purchased from
Aug 15 Assumption tabacconists (tabaccherie), which display a white T in
Nov 1 All Souls’ Day front of the shop. Some restaurants and bars contain small
Dec 7 City Patron St Ambrose’s Day tabaccherie behind the cash register. These establishments
Dec 8 Immaculate Conception also sell stamps, cards for cellular phone credit and lottery
Dec 25 Christmas tickets. Some also sell transport tickets, and may have
Dec 26 St Stephen’s Day external vending machines for purchases after-hours.
Cigarettes cannot be sold to anyone under 16.
Autumn 2015 13
City basics
Beer and wine can be bought at bars from the age of 16, could range anywhere from €1.50 a head to €3 or more
spirits from age 18. Bars rarely ask to see identification, but in high profile or central, touristy locations. Tips are not
the law requires that everyone carry a valid ID at all times. expected in most restaurants, but rounding up by €1-2 is
It should come as no surprise that wine pervades most appreciated. Taxi drivers will also be happy if you round the
spheres of Italian life, with consumption rates around 38 fare up to the nearest whole euro.
litres per capita per year, and special circumstances are not
required to pop open a bottle.
VISAS
EU nationals do not require a visa to visit Italy. For
TELEPHONE NUMBERS citizens of the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand,
All In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing empire Schengen Agreement rules apply, and travellers may
list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Italian therefore stay up to three months without a visa.
country code is (+39), but of course, you only have to use Depending on the country of origin, some foreigners
this if you’re dialing from abroad. If you’re already in Italy may need a visa. It is best to enquire at Italian embassies
and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just or consulates for current bilateral agreements with your
ignore the (+39) prefix and dial the number. country before travelling. All visitors should declare
their presence to the police within eight days of arrival.
If you are staying in a hotel, this will be done for you.
TIPPING Otherwise, contact the main police station (Questura
Most restaurants include a cover charge (coperto) per Centrale), at via Fatebenefratelli 1 (D-3), tel. (+39) 02
customer that is added automatically to the bill. This fee 62 261 for info.

TOURIST INFORMATION MILANTOURISMPOINT


AT BERGAMO ORIO AL
SERIO AIRPORT
Found within the
Autostradale office.QVia
Aeroporto 13, Orio al Serio.
Open 07:00 - 01:00.

MILANTOURISMPOINT
You will receive a warm welcome upon arrival in Milan AT GALLERIA
at MilanTourismPoint, the visitors centres offering QD-4, Via Silvio Pellico 2, MDuomo. Open 10:00 -
assistance and information to ensure an optimal stay in 22:00. Closed Mon.
the city. Offices are conveniently located at the airports,
at Centrale railway station and in the city centre. MILANTOURISMPOINT AT MILANO CENTRALE
Here you will find tourist assistance and qualified staff RAILWAY STATION
that will provide you with info on how to make the most QE-1, Piazza Duca D’Aosta 1, mezzanine level,
of your time in Milan; what to see, what to do, events MCentrale FS, info@milanocard.it, www.
in town and instructions on how to obtain benefits, milantourismpoint.com. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 -
museum discounts, and offers available through 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
MilanoCard partners.
At a MilanTourismPoint you can also purchase Expo MILANTOURISMPOINT AT MILANO LINATE
2015 tickets, a 1-day MilanoCard, 3-day MilanoCard, AIRPORT
tours, personalized shopping services, bus tickets, Found within the Autostradale office.QViale Enrico Forlanini,
airport bus transfers, and more. Don’t forget to inquire Segrate. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
about MilanoCard’s free “Milan Welcome Walks”. Led by
local university students, these 45-minute English tours MILANTOURISMPOINT AT MILANO MALPENSA
depart from Palazzo Reale and cross through galleria AIRPORT TERMINALS 1 & 2
Vittorio Emanuele II to piazza della Scala, and are a great Found within the Autostradale offices in both Terminal 1
way learn about Milan’s history and get yourself oriented. and Terminal 2.QFerno. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Visit an office to pick up your MilanoCard and tickets for
tours purchased online. Online MilanoCard customers MILANTOURISMPOINT AT PIAZZA CASTELLO
will receive a free city map, as well as a complimentary Found within the Autostradale office.QC-3, Piazza
artisanal panettone cake, which can be collected at the Castello 1, MCairoli, tel. (+39) 02 72 00 13 04. Open
Panettone Vergani boutique on via Mercadante 17 (F-1). 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

14 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com


History
5th century BC A Celtic tribe settles just north-east of 1706 Joseph I of Austria’s troops, led by Eugenio of Savoy
today’s central Milan. occupy Milan, putting an end to Spanish occupation. In
1713 the Treaty of Utrecht, closing act of the war of Spanish
225-194 BC Rome establishes control over the Po valley Succession, ratifies the transferral of Lombardy to the
and Mediolanum, the Latinised form of a Celtic place name Austrian imperial family.
meaning ‘middle earth’.
1797 Milan, conquered by Napoleonic troops, is
286 AD Under Emperor Diocletian’s tetrarchy, Milan proclaimed capital of The Cisalpine Republic.
becomes the capital of the Western Roman Empire. It will
remain capital until 402, when the imperial seat of power is 1805 Napoleon is crowned King of Italy in the Duomo.
moved to Ravenna.

374 Ambrose, future patron saint of the city, is made


bishop of Milan.

6th-8th century Milan is ruled by the Lombards from


whom Lombardy takes its name.

1018-1045 The bishop and count Ariberto d’Intimiano


successfully repels Emperor Corrado II’s siege.

1158 Emperor Frederick I, also known as Barbarossa The Coronation of Napoleon by Jacques-Louis David
(Redbeard), besieges Milan and will attack the city again
1815 At Napoleon’s fall, the congress of Vienna establishes
in 1162. Five years later Milan becomes the head of the
Milan as the capital of the Lombardo-Venetian Kingdom
Lombard League, a coalition of cities that in 1176, finally
and part of the Austrian Empire.
defeats the imperial army.
1848 During the First Italian War of Independence, the Five
1278 Ottone Visconti, archbishop of Milan, is proclaimed
Days of Milan (18 - 22 March) mark a temporary ousting of
ruler of the city.
Austrian power from the city.
1386 Construction of Milan Cathedral, the Duomo, begins.
1859 Austria, defeated by France in the Second Italian War
1395 Gian Galeazzo Visconti becomes duke of Milan. In of Independence, hands Milan and Lombardy to the House
the following years he extends the territory of his duchy to of Savoy.
include most of northern Italy reaching as far as Pisa, Siena
1861 The Kingdom of Italy is proclaimed.
and Perugia. He dies suddenly in 1402.
1898 The riots caused by an increase in the price of bread
1450 Francesco Sforza, married to Bianca Maria, last of the
are violently repressed by general Fiorenzo Bava Beccaris,
Visconti line, becomes the city’s ruler.
who on 8 May gives order to fire cannons against the crowd
1498 Leonardo da Vinci completes The Last Supper in the killing 80 protesters.
convent next to Santa Maria delle Grazie.
1919 Once-socialist Benito Mussolini founds in Milan the
1499 Duke Ludovico Sforza known as ‘Il Moro’ (the Moor) Fasci di combattimento (League of Combat).
is imprisoned by the French army as they invade Milan and
1945 Heavily damaged by allied forces bombing, on 24
the surrounding area.
and 25 April Milan rises up against the German troops: the
1512 Maximilian, Ludovico il Moro’s son, takes back the city is liberated even before allied forces enter. On 29 April
duchy through a strategic allegiance with Switzerland. the corpse of Mussolini, brought to justice near Lake Como,
Three years later, the battle of Melegnano will place Milan is hung in piazzale Loreto.
back into French hands.
1964 The first metro line begins service.
1525 Emperor Charles V of Hapsburg defeats the French
1969 12 December, the piazza Fontana bombing signals in
army in the battle of Pavia, firmly placing the city of Milan
Italy the start of a series of terrorist attacks that will cease
under his power. Ten years later the duchy of Milan moves
only in the early 80s.
directly under Spanish domination.
1992 The Public Prosecutor’s office in Milan begins the
1627-1631 The population is reduced to almost half
‘Clean Hands’ inquest highlighting corruption in politics
its size by the plague as narrated two centuries later by
and administration at local and national level.
Alessandro Manzoni in his I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed),
a masterpiece of Italian prose. 2008 Milan is awarded Expo 2015.
Autumn 2015 15
Culture & Events
Velasquez, Goya, Tintoretto, Manet and Cézanne. The
ART AND EXHIBITIONS evolution of modern art will also be illustrated by original
06.06 SATURDAY  10.01 SUNDAY preparatory sketches from some of history’s greatest
SPINOSAURUS: LOST GIANT OF THE artists such as Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Schiele,
CRETACEOUS which will be alternated throughout the exhibition.QD-4,
As recently as 10 years ago, scientists believed that the Palazzo Reale, Piazza del Duomo 12, MDuomo, tel.
Tyrannosaurus Rex was the largest predatory dinosaur. That (+39) 02 54 911, www.daraffaelloaschiele.it. Open
is, until they met the Spinosaurus. Measuring an incredible 09:30 - 19:30, Mon 14:30 - 19:30, Thu, Sat 09:30 - 22:30.
15 metres, this giant carnivore was two metres longer than Admission €8/14. YJAUK
the biggest T. rex ever discovered. The Spinosaurus roamed
the earth 95 million years ago and had long crocodile-like 28.10 WEDNESDAY  13.03 SUNDAY
jaws and a distinctive sail on its back. The exhibition at BARBIE. THE ICON
Palazzo Dugnani allows visitors a close encounter with this Most likely you’ve come to Milan with Renaissance art and
massive creature, and the chance to learn some fascinating names like Giotto, Raffaelo and Da Vinci in mind. Not Barbie.
facts about the discovery of the Spinosaurus fossils and But whatever your feelings towards this iconic, trend-
the world in which it lived.QD-3, Palazzo Dugnani, Via setting, more-often-than-not blonde fashion statement,
Daniele Manin 2, MTurati, tel. (+39) 02 88 46 33 37, no one can deny that she’s retained her legendary status
spinosaurus@geomodel.it, www.spinosaurus.eu. Open for over half a century. MUDEC’s exhibition, Barbie. The
09:30 - 19:30, Mon 09:30 - 13:30, Thu 09:30 - 22:30. Icon, celebrates the timeless doll and her ever-changing
Admission €10/5, U6 free. TYJA persona since Mattel introduced her to the world in 1959.
The museum’s extensive exhibition highlights Barbie’s
15.06 MONDAY  31.10 SATURDAY prowess at reflecting the cultural, anthropological and
THE CUP FACTORY social changes of the decades, and how the doll’s constant
This special exhibition celebrates the artisans and evolution has landed her a permanent spot in the hearts
craftsmanship behind the prestigious trophies produced of children and fashion annals, and on the shelves of toy
for the FIFA and UEFA football federations. For the very stores worldwide.QA-6, MUDEC Museo delle Culture,
first time the original sketches, wax and plaster models, Via Tortona 56, MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 54 917,
molds and machinery will be on display, giving visitors a info@mudec.it, www.mudec.it. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Mon
glimpse into the intricate and time-honored process of 14:30 - 19:30, Thu, Sat 09:30 - 22:30. Admission €6/10.
trophy making. Crafted in Italy by GDE Bertoni, the trophies PYJAUK
include the 1971 FIFA World Cup created by Italian sculptor
Silvio Gazzaniga as well as the 2006 World Cup trophy won 28.10 WEDNESDAY  21.02 SUNDAY
by Italy in Berlin.QCasa Milan, Via Aldo Rossi 8, MLotto, GAUGUIN. RACCONTI DAL PARADISO.
QT8, tel. (+39) 02 62 28 56 04, mondomilan@acmilan. A 19th century French Post-Impressionist artist, Gauguin
it, www.casamilan.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission was a major figure in the Primitivism art movement. A
€12/18. U7 free. TAUK worldly traveler, he found inspiration in the art and cultures
of places he visited, from ancient Egypt to Peru, Polynesia
26.08 WEDNESDAY  15.11 SUNDAY to Cambodia. MUDEC’s long-awaited exhibition has been
LA GRANDE MADRE amassed from museums and private collections, and
A contemporary art tribute to motherhood, La Grande includes Gauguin’s paintings and sculptures as well as
Madre (The Great Mother) exhibition showcases more than traditional objects and relics from around the world that
100 artists from around the world and over 400 works of inspired his work.QA-6, MUDEC Museo delle Culture,
art. Conceived and produced by the Fondazione Nicola Via Tortona 56, MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 54 917,
Trussardi in partnership with Palazzo Reale, The exhibition info@mudec.it, www.mudec.it. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Mon
illustrates the empowerment of women in recent history 14:30 - 19:30, Thu, Sat 09:30 - 22:30. Admission €6/12.
and struggles between tradition, emancipation and gender PYJAUK
that continue even today.QD-4, Palazzo Reale, Piazza del
Duomo 12, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 92 80 03 75, www. 02.09 WEDNESDAY  10.01 SUNDAY
lagrandemadre.org. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Mon 14:30 - GIOTTO, L’ITALIA. DA ASSISI A MILANO
19:30, Thu, Sat 09:30 - 22:30. Admission €5/8. YJ United for the first time in a single exhibition, Giotto,
AUK l’Italia. Da Assisi a Milano (from Assisi to Milan) brings
together 13 masterpieces by Renaissance painter, Giotto
17.09 THURSDAY  07.02 SUNDAY di Bondone, which until now have never been shown
DA RAFFAELLO A SCHIELE together. Considered the father of Renaissance art, Giotto’s
From the the Museum of Fine Arts in Budapest come some remarkable technique and ability to portray realistic
of finest masterpieces of European art. Da Raffaello a images in his paintings attracted the attention of the
Schiele (From Raphael to Schiele) at Palazzo Reale proudly church, cardinals and kings in the 14th century. Examples
showcases 76 paintings dating from the Renaissance to the of his work can be found throughout Italy, from St. Peter’s
early 20th century, including works by Raffaello, Gauguin, in Rome to the frescoes in Assisi, Padua and Rimini.
Autumn 2015 17
Culture & Events
This premier showcases pieces on loan from the Vatican 14.10 WEDNESDAY  04.11 WEDNESDAY
Museums, Bologna National Art Gallery and Uffizi in FALSTAFF
Florence, and has been organized in honor of Expo 2015. At almost 80 years of age, Giuseppe Verdi composed his
QD-4, Palazzo Reale, Piazza del Duomo 12, MDuomo, second operatic comedy based on the works of master
tel. (+39) 02 92 80 03 75, www.mostragiottoitalia.it. playwright, William Shakespeare. Centered on the follies of
Open 09:30 - 19:30, Mon 14:30 - 19:30, Thu, Sat 09:30 - the rotund knight, Sir John Falstaff, the opera humorously
22:30. Admission €10/12. YJAUK recounts his attempts to woo two married women with the
aim of plundering their husbands’ coffers. After conducting
CLASSICAL, BALLET Falstaff in London, Daniele Gatti brings his talents to the
stage at La Scala alongside director Robert Carsen.QC-4,
AND OPERA Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel.
19.07 SUNDAY  27.10 TUESDAY (+39) 02 88 791, biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www.
INTERNATIONAL ORCHESTRA FESTIVAL teatroallascala.org. Event starts at 20:00. Box office
Milan plays host to some of the world’s most prestigious open 09:00 - 18:00. Tickets €73/252. JA
symphony orchestras during the International Orchestra
Festival - running through the six-month period of Expo 18.10 SUNDAY
2015. Through the end of October, La Scala welcomes LA FILARMONICA E L’AMERICA
the London Philharmonic Orchestra, Orchestre de Paris, Director Daniele Gatti leads the La Scala Philharmonic
Boston Symphony Orchestra, Budapest Festival Orchestra Symphony Orchestra in this special production of La
and many more. For a full calendar of events visit the Filarmonica e l’America. Part of the Discovery concert series
Teatro della Scala website.QC-4, Teatro alla Scala, Via at Teatro degli Arcimboldi, the performance features pieces
Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 791, by Debussy, Bernstein, Ravel and Gershwin.QTeatro Degli
biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www.teatroallascala. Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 20, MBicocca, tel.
org. Box office open 09:00 - 18:00. Event times vary per (+39) 02 641 14 22 12, www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Event
concert. Tickets €6.50/150. JA starts at 20:00. Tickets €10/45. AU

21.09 MONDAY  17.10 SATURDAY 29.10 THURSDAY  13.11 FRIDAY


L’ELISIR D’AMORE WOZZECK
Who doesn’t fancy a love story with a happy ending? Adapted from a play, Wozzeck was composed by Austrian
Full of playful humour, Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore delivers Alban Berg on the heels of World War I. The opera depicts
just that in this lighthearted melodramma giocoso the everyday life of soldiers and townspeople in a rural
whose jocular performances have made this opera one German town and brutally portrays the militarism and
of Donizetti’s most popular since it first graced the stage social tension of that time. Noted for its’ use of atonality
in 1832.QC-4, Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici to express thoughts and emotions, Wozzeck was first
2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 791, biglietteria@ performed in 1925 and has been a popular classic at La
teatroallascala.org, www.teatroallascala.org. Event Scala for nearly a century.QC-4, Teatro alla Scala, Via
starts at 20:00. Box office open 09:00 - 18:00. Tickets Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 791,
€79/252. JA biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www.teatroallascala.
org. Event starts at 20:00. Box office open 09:00 - 18:00.
26.09 SATURDAY  23.10 FRIDAY Tickets €22/180. JA
LA BELLA ADDORMENTATA NEL BOSCO
Chances are you know the classic fairy tale of a beautiful 12.11 THURSDAY  20.11 FRIDAY
princess, a sleeping enchantment and a handsome prince, L’HISTOIRE DE MANON
but if you’ve never seen the ballet La bella addormentata nel Choreographed by Sir Kenneth MacMillan, a British ballet
bosco (Sleeping Beauty) scored by Tchaikovsky then you’re dancer and choreographer who was artistic director of
in for a treat. The revival of this 19th century Russian classic the London Royal Ballet, L’histoire de Manon debuted in
by Alexei Ratmanksky features scenery and costumes London in 1974. Based on the 18th century novel, Manon
by Tony Award-winning designer, Richard Hudson, and Lescaut, the plot centers on a young damsel torn between
is co-produced with the American Ballet Theatre.QC-4, her true love, a destitute student, and the high-society
Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel. lifestyle offered by a wealthy admirer. Temptations and
(+39) 02 88 791, biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www. trickery abound as the plot thickens, and the indecisive
teatroallascala.org. Event starts at 20:00. Box office Manon must choose a path that may very well lead to a
open 09:00 - 18:00. Tickets €55/180. JA tragic end. Svetlana Zakharova and Roberto Bolle return
on stage for three performances of this large-scale
operatic ballet (Nov 12, 14, 17).QC-4, Teatro alla Scala,
What’s going on? Via Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 791,
biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www.teatroallascala.
facebook.com/MilanInYourPocket org. Event starts at 20:00. Tickets €152,40. Box office
open 09:00 - 18:00. JA
18 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
07.12 MONDAY  02.01 SATURDAY
GIOVANNA D’ARCO EXPO 2015
After a 150-year absence, Giuseppe Verdi’s Giovanna d’Arco
(Joan of Arc) returns to La Scala’s stage conducted by
Riccardo Chailly. France’s beloved heroine, Joan of Arc was
beatified and then canonized in 1920, and is one of the nine
secondary patron saints of France. This operatic rendition
of her tale includes performances by Anna Netrebko,
Francesco Meli and Carlos Álvarez.QC-4, Teatro alla Scala,
Via Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 791,
biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www.teatroallascala.
org. Event starts at 20:00. Box office open 09:00 - 18:00.
Tickets go on sale Oct 9. Consult website for prices.
JA

CONCERTS
13.10 TUESDAY  13.10 TUESDAY
TAKE THAT © Fabio Sironi
Winners of eight British awards for Best British Group and
Best British Live Act, English pop band Take That has had ‘Feeding the planet, Energy for Life’ is the theme
28 top 40 singles in the UK, 12 of which have reached that unites the 145 countries set to participate
number one, and 56 number one singles around the in Expo 2015. For the past seven years, Milan
world. Since forming the group in their teens in 1989, has been gearing up for this edition of the world
Take That has sold more than 30 million albums, and fair. The city’s main sights have been buffed and
despite the fact that the original quintet is now a trio, polished, public transport has been improved,
their popularity continues to grow. On stage the band and hundreds of exclusive exhibitions have been
members’ energy is contagious and special effects are organised all over town to compliment the main
nothing short of spectacular.QMediolanum Forum, Expo event.
Via Giuseppe di Vittorio 6, Assago, MAssago Forum, With ‘Feeding the planet, Energy for life’, Expo
tel. (+39) 02 48 85 71, info@livenation.it, www. addresses the issue of nutrition, food security and
mediolanumforum.it. Event starts at 21:00. Tickets biodiversity. Participating countries share and discuss
€39/69. AU challenges while showcasing the newest innovations
and technologies related to food sustainability and
17.10 SATURDAY  17.10 SATURDAY the environment. Visitors learn how science, modern
DAVE MATTHEWS BAND technology and natural resources can be harnessed
A fusion of rock, bluegrass, jazz, folk and pop, Dave to create efficient, socially-conscious solutions to
Matthews Band’s unique sound has earned them the top secure a flow of sustainable and quality food in the
spot on the Billboard charts six consecutive times and won future.
them fans around the globe. Known for their ingenuity and
improvisation on stage (it’s been rumoured they never play The sprawling 1.1 million square meter Expo site is
a song the same way twice) this is one live performance located just outside of Milan city centre and is easily
to catch while you’re in Milan.QMediolanum Forum, accessible by public transport. Boasting a garden
Via Giuseppe di Vittorio 6, Assago, MAssago Forum, with more than 12,000 trees and a Biodiversity
tel. (+39) 02 48 85 71, info@livenation.it, www. park where many of the planet’s ecosystems have
mediolanumforum.it. Event starts at 20:00. Tickets been faithfully reproduced, visitors can explore four
€39/69. AU themed pavilions to discover how our relationship
with food has changed over the centuries and the
15.11 SUNDAY  15.11 SUNDAY ways we can foster a new culture of sustainability in
SIMPLY RED the future.
Simply Red stops in Milan on the band’s 30th Anniversary
whirlwind European Tour to celebrate their milestone Expo 2015 is open everyday from 10:00 - 23:00 (Sat,
and promote the band’s latest album, “Big Love”. Tickets Sun 10:00 - 24:00) up to October 31. A number
are selling out fast for this incredibly popular concert, so of ticket options are available and cost €34/39.
don’t dawdle or it will be too late!QMediolanum Forum, Tickets can be purchased at MilanTourismPoint
Via Giuseppe di Vittorio 6, Assago, MAssago Forum, visitors centres. Tickets are also available
tel. (+39) 02 53 00 65 01, info@livenation.it, www. online at https://tickets.expo2015.org. For further
mediolanumforum.it. Event starts at 21:00. Tickets information, see www.expo2015.org.
€41.40. AU
Autumn 2015 19
Culture & Events
21.11 SATURDAY  22.11 SUNDAY
FOOTBALL BOB DYLAN AND HIS BAND
After a completely sold-out concert series in Italy over
By nature, Italians are a passionate folk, with an summer, American music and cultural icon, Bob Dylan, has
impressive capacity to wax long and lyrical on any topic extended his stay in the bel paese and comes to Teatro degli
that they hold close to their hearts - like food, fashion Arcimboldi this November. Playing tunes such as Autumn
and, of course, football. Ask any Italian which club they Leaves, Full Moon and Empty Arms, The Night They Call It A
support and prepare to settle in for a comprehensive Day and other classics, Bob Dylan and His Band are guaranteed
and impassioned history lesson on the heady heights to delight fans in this intimate venue where the acoustics do
and crushing lows of their favourite team. It’s safe to perfect justice to the soulful performance on stage.QTeatro
say that in Italy, football is much more than a sport; it’s Degli Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 20, MBicocca,
practically a religion. tel. (+39) 02 641 14 22 12, www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Event
Every weekend thousands of pilgrims don their teams starts at 21:00. Tickets €69/115. AU
colours and flock faithfully to worship at the gates of
Milan’s football temple - Giuseppe Meazza Stadium -
better known as the San Siro. Home to the city’s two MUSICALS
clubs, A.C. Milan and F.C. Internazionale Milano (aka 01.09 TUESDAY  25.10 SUNDAY
Inter), at maximum capacity San Siro can hold up to PINOCCHIO IL GRANDE MUSICAL
85,000 football fanatics. The rivalry between these two A wooden boy. A lonely shoemaker. Add a magical
stars of the Italian Serie A is legendary and tickets to the enchantment and you’ve got one of the most beloved
hottest match in town - the Milan Derby - are usually stories of all time. Pinocchio, by Italian author Carlo Collodi,
snapped up in seconds. A.C. Milan and Inter Milan has won the hearts of children in 240 different languages
dominate the most famous football leagues at home since its first publication in 1883; and this year it jumps to life
and abroad. Inter have won the scudetto 18 times and in the rave-reviewed Pinocchio Il Grande Musical. Directed
the Champions league 3 times. A.C Milan on the other by Saverio Marconi with music by Italian pop band, Pooh,
hand have won the Champions league 7 times and this musical-hit dazzled audiences in New York (2010), South
have taken home the scudetto 18 times. Korea (2009) and across Italy when it debuted in 2003. Now
Visiting football fans may want to take in a guided back by popular demand in honour of Expo 2015, the 100%
tour of San Siro. Offering a behind the scenes look Italian production will wow children and adults alike with
at life inside the stadium, this tour includes a visit its over-the-top special effects, incredible cast, spectacular
to the Museum, a football-enthusiasts paradise of staging and songs that you’ll be humming all the way back
memorabilia and film footage. to your hotel.QTeatro della Luna, Via Di Vittorio 6, Assago,
San Siro on match day can be an electrifying experience MAssago Forum, tel. (+39) 02 48 85 77 516, teatro@
for football fans and non-fans alike. The flag-bearing, forumnet.it, www.teatrodellaluna.com. Check listings for
chanting ultra supporters lining the curva - the side show times. Tickets €33/55. U14 €20. TAU
of the stadium - often provide the crowd with more
entertainment than the players. 15.09 TUESDAY  22.10 THURSDAY
Tickets are available on match days in the kiosks around THE BLUES LEGEND - IL MUSICAL
the stadium. Prices may vary depending on the team An exceptional Italian cast brings Rhythm & Blues and
playing, but usually start from about €12. To purchase Soul to the stage at Barclays Teatro Nazionale in this two-
tickets, you’ll need a photo ID, like a passport or drivers hour musical featuring foot stompin’ classics like Sweet
license. To buy tickets for certain matches, a supporters Home Chicago, Soul Man, Think, Gimme Some Lovin’ and
membership card (tessera del tifoso) may be necessary. Everybody Needs Somebody.QBarclays Teatro Nazionale,
Tickets can also be purchased online at www.acmilan. Via Giordano Rota 1, MWagner, tel. (+39) 02 00 64 08
com and www.inter.it. 88, www.teatronazionale.it. Check website for show
times. Tickets €22/75. AU

24.11 TUESDAY  06.12 SUNDAY


MAMMA MIA!
For more than a decade Mamma Mia! has thrilled audiences
on Broadway and London’s West End. This autumn the
wildly popular musical comes to Milan for a two-week run
on the stage at Teatro degli Arcimboldi. The hilarious tale
of family and friendship set on a Greek island features the
timeless songs of 70’s band, ABBA, and will be performed
in English with Italian subtitles.QTeatro Degli Arcimboldi,
Viale dell’Innovazione 20, MBicocca, tel. (+39) 02 641
14 22 12, www.teatroarcimboldi.it. Check listings for
show times. Tickets €29/75. AU
20 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
PRICE GUIDE FUSION
THE KITCHEN SOCIETY
€ expect to have more than enough to eat and not Not just any chef would risk giving an Italian twist
spend more than €12 - 15 to Japansese cuisine, but Chef Alex at The Kitchen
Society has, and the result is nothing short of show-
€€ a two course-meal and some table wine could
stopping. Picture your favourite sushi roll dressed up
cost you between €15 - 30
for the evening in the finest, freshest ingredients grown
€€€ a full three-course meal won’t cost you less in our bel paese - a sprinkle of basil, smattering of
than €45 capers, touch of truffle or dusting of pistachio... can’t
€€€€ you’re in a top-end restaurant and be imagine it? Then take our advice: head over to The
prepared to spend over €60 Kitchen Society, grab a seat, and prepare to be amazed.
QA-1, Via Gerolamo Chizzolini 2, MMoscova, tel.
(+39) 340 676 39 39, info@kitchensociety.it, www.
Milan’s status as a bustling and cosmopolitan hub of energy kitchensociety.it. Open 12:30 - 14:30, 19:30 - 23:30,
is very much reflected in its dining scene. As a crossroads of Mon, Sat 19:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PJA
both global and Italian cultures, the choice of restaurants UGK
available in Milan is wildly varied. A city often ruled by fickle
fads - in terms of both fashion and food - every few years,
a trend will sweep across town to shake up the restaurant INDIAN
scene. Recently, the city has seen sushi spots and burger SHIVA
bars pop up in places where no restaurant ever seemed Great Indian food can be hard to come by in Milan. Of the
imaginable and at an astonishing rate. Always ahead of the handful of restaurants on offer, Shiva is definitely leading
curve, Milan is constantly searching for the next big trend. the pack. Here you’ll find convincingly authentic Indian
But in spite of this dynamic and forward-facing attitude, cuisine served in a brightly decorated and softly lit space.
one of the most endearing aspects of the food culture in With a long list of tandoori dishes, of which the paneer
the city, and in Italy as a whole, is the pride taken in regional tikka (roasted homemade cheese) is a particular favourite.
cuisine. The history, culture and identity of each region is so The samosas are delicious while tasting menus are great for
intertwined with the food prepared there that it is virtually those wanting to try a little bit of everything.QC-6, Viale
impossible to separate them. This means that in Milan, it Gian Galeazzo 7, MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 89
is not rare to see sophisticated and contemporary fusion 40 47 46, info@ristoranteshiva.it, www.ristoranteshiva.
eateries line up beside traditional, homespun trattorie. it. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 01:00, Mon 19:00 - 01:00.
Close borders mean that traditional milanese dishes draw €€€. PTJA6KS
on Austrian and German influences. Highlights include
cotoletta, a buttery veal cutlet wrapped in bread crumbs,
and ossobuco alla milanese, a veal shank stew braised ITALIAN
in white wine and broth. Other examples include risotto CARLO E CAMILLA IN SEGHERIA
alla milanese, rice hailing from the Po Valley and tinted a Between his Michelin stars and television roles, Carlo
golden yellow colour with saffron, and cassoeula, a stew Cracco hardly needs an introduction. A world-renowned
made from verza cabbage and leftover pork bits. celebrity chef, it comes as no surprise that his newest
During the economic miracle of the 1950s, Milan flourished venture, Carlo e Camilla in Segheria, tops the list of
while the rest of the country floundered. As a result, many Milan’s hottest places to dine. Housed in a former sawmill
southern Italians flocked to the city in search of better a (segheria), the restaurant has retained its industrial
fortune. With them they brought the colourful flavours of their interior but sets the bar for swank under the artistic
villages in the south. Pizza from Naples, burrata cheese from direction of Cracco’s partner, Tanja Solci. The 65-seat table
Apulia, spicy salami from Calabria and many other regional in the shape of a cross and glass chandeliers give the
delights became a mainstay on tables all over Milan. These open space a gothic feel, but Solci softens the ambience
influences can still be seen in the city today, where a rich with an assortment of vintage crockery and whimsically
tapestry of regional produce and dishes are readily available decorated paper ware, lending a homey touch to the
in the many speciality restaurants all over the city. communal setting. Chef Emanuele Pollini’s menu evolves
More recently, big business has meant that Milan has seen constantly and features fresh, seasonal ingredients
much more of an international influence on its eating habits. prepared in unexpected ways, matched perfectly by
Sunday brunch is now ubiquitous, with many cafès and an equally unusual line-up of cocktails prepared with
bistros offering American-style buffets stuffed with pancakes meticulous precision by the Segheria’s superstar barista.
and scrambled eggs. Immigration has seen a rise in African The only drawback? Reservations can be hard to come by,
and middle-eastern restaurants dotted around the city. so make your booking well in advance!QVia Giuseppe
Whatever your taste, Milan has something for you. There is no Meda 24, MRomolo, tel. (+39) 02 83 73 963, www.
doubt that you’ll have the opportunity to eat some of Italy’s most carloecamillainsegheria.it. Open 18:00 - 02:00. €€€.
memorable and sophisticated creations in this foodie hub. PAUBK
Autumn 2015 21
Restaurants
DONGIÒ Milan City, Via Melchiorre Gioia 73, MSondrio, tel.
Tucked away in a side street just a short stroll from Porta (+39) 02 66 71 77 15, www.crowneplazamilan.com/en/
Romana, Dongiò is one of the best value-for-money restaurant-bar/restaurant. Open 12:30 - 14:30, 19:30 -
restaurants in Milan. Inside, the space is divided into two 22:30. €€€. PiJA6KW
cosy, warmly lit nooks where tables covered in pristine
white linen jostle with dark mahogany chairs. This trattoria PANINO GIUSTO
specialises in Calabrian cuisine, offering dishes flavoured Panino Giusto’s Facebook page states: “Panino Giusto: a taste
with the spicy aromas of the south. All the pasta on served the whole world envies”; and they’re not exaggerating. Hands
up here is made in-house. With an excellent wine list and down, this is one of the best sandwich spots in town. Lightly
an interesting selection of grappas, Dongiò is full almost toasted to perfection, the panini here come served with the
every night of the week. Booking in advance is strongly finest Italian sliced meats - bresaola, mortadella, prosciutto
recommendedQE-6, Via Bernardino Corio 3, MPorta cotto and crudo, salame, roast beef, and more - seasonal
Romana, tel. (+39) 02 551 13 72, www.ristorante- vegetables, specialty cheeses and a medley of mouthwatering
dongio.it. Open 12:00 - 15:30, 19:30 - 00:00, Sat 19:30 spreads or drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Try a “Tartufo” with
- 00:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PTJA6G Parma Ham, Brie, seasonal tomato, rocket (arugula) and Alba
truffle oil, or a vegetarian “Orientale” with Caprino cheese,
ERBA BRUSCA mint-flavoured grilled aubergines, baked cherry tomatoes
French and English by birth, raised in the USA but Italian at and hummus.QC-2, Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 125,
heart, Alice Delcourt brings her international background to MMoscova, tel. (+39) 02 655 47 28, www.paninogiusto.it.
the kitchen at Erba Brusca where her worldly flare shines in Open 12:00 - 01:00. €. PTJA6UBKXSW
every dish. Local and seasonal are the focus of her fare, which
features a cornucopia of produce from the restaurant’s SOLATIUM
on-site garden. With colourful combinations like red beet Down an alley in via Tortona, a shrine to local craftsmanship,
risotto dotted with herbs and a swirl of yogurt as a finishing traditional music and regional cuisine has popped up on
touch, Delcourt’s farm-to-table menu delights the eye and occasion of Expo 2015: the Italian Makers Village. Here you can
the palate. Try the Chef’s Tasting Menu to experience her experience the best of Made in Italy (regions rotate every few
repertoire, a great deal at just €32. Erba Brusca is located days) and meet artisans from around the country. Combine
in the southern outskirts of Milan and best reached by car, your visit with lunch or dinner at Solatium for a true taste of
or even better, by biking the picturesque path along the Italian regionalism. Dishes and wines served here reflect the
Navigli Canals.QAlzaia Naviglio Pavese 286, tel. (+39) many flavours and nuances of our bel paese, but they all
02 87 38 07 11, www.erbabrusca.it. Open 12:30 - 14:00, have one thing in common: their emphasis on the Slow Food
20:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Tue. €€. PAUEBK principle that the best food and wine reflects the terroir and
traditions of Italy’s special heritage.QA-6, Via Tortona 32,
GIULIO PANE E OJO MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 39 81 40 12, solatium.
Be sure to book before heading Giulio Pane Ojo as this tortona32@gmail.com, www.italianmakersvillage.it. Open
Roman osteria is often full. Dark wooden furnishings and 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PTJAUK
softly painted walls make this a wonderfully welcoming
place to spend a cozy evening. The menu, most often
scribbled on an overhead blackboard, is short; a sign that PIZZERIAS
only fresh, seasonal ingredients make it into these Roman PICCOLA ISCHIA
specialities. Friendly waiters are on hand to explain and offer Named after one of the islands off the coast of Naples, La
suggestions. Favourite dishes include: bucatini cacio e pepe Piccola Ischia has been serving up fragrant and perfectly-
(with crumbled, Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper) fired pizza since 1997. Although the interior is just a little bit
and saltimbocca (veal with prosciutto and sage).QE-6, Via kitsch - with puppets and nautical murals covering the walls
Ludovico Muratori 10, MPorta Romana, tel. (+39) 02 545 - the extensive menu contains over 50 types of genuinely
61 89, www.giuliopaneojo.com. Open 12:30-15:00, 19:30 excellent pizza. For something extra special, try the ricotta
- 23:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PTJA6G stuffed zucchini blossoms as a starter. A top value for
money spot, a beer and a margherita shouldn’t cost more
METROPOLITAN than about €12.QF-2, Via Giovanni Battista Morgagni 7,
As with Crowne Plaza Milan City hotel that it is housed in, the MLima, tel. (+39) 02 204 76 13, www.piccolaischia.it.
Metropolitan restaurant is decorated in a contemporary style Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:30 - 23.30, Sat 19:30-23:30, Sun
with surprising high-design touches. The setting, though 19:00-23:30. Closed Wed. €€. TJA6KS
quite large and open, remains quite exclusive and intimate
thanks to the golden tones of subtle lighting. The kitchen
serves a blend of both international and local cuisines - the STREET FOOD
seafood risotto, for example, is exquisite and worth splashing C’ERA UNA VOLTA UNA PIADA
out for. The reasonable prices and the friendly and relaxed A hip and trendy little find that translates as ‘Once upon
atmosphere make the Metropolitan well worth the detour a time there was a piadina,’ the food and service here is
from bustling streets of Milan’s city centre.QCrowne Plaza seriously good. Inside, the decor has a distinct fairytale
22 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

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cottage feel with plant pots and frilly curtains adorning the make an exception to the rule. This is that time. From
windows. This cosy spot is one of the best places to sample a southern Italy’s Apulia region, come two lads armed
piadina romagnola - or flatbread - in Milan. Everyday, fresh with a bicycle that rivals any food truck, and a mission
piadine are shipped in from the Romagna region ready to to spread on slices of bread. Not just any bread, but
be filled with the top-quality ingredients like parma ham, Pane di Altamura DOP; crusty oak-wood fired loaves
grilled vegetables and mozzarella. Serving up an extensive whose recipe harkens back to 37 BC. Their message is as
menu of both sweet and savory options, you can grab a simple and genuine as the medley of mouth-wathering
piadina and a soft-drink here for as little as €6.QB-5, Viale bruschette grilled and served from the back of their
Coni Zugna 37, MSant’Agostino, tel. (+39) 334 29 78 82, bike with a refreshing spritz: namely, that authentic
www.ceraunavoltaunapiada.it. Open 10:00 - 15:30, 19:00 food stays true to its roots. That’s Pantura. Now, how to
- 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:30, 19:00 - 23:00. €. TJ6KS find them? Not so simple. Always on the move, Saverio
and Francesco pedal between Colonne di San Lorenzo,
NUN Piazza San Fedele, Darsena, Piazza Sant’Agostino and
Kebab shops in Milan are ten a penny, but this little eatery is other prime spots in central Milan. When they’ve got an
miles ahead of the competition. Located just off corso Buenos app for that we’ll let you know!Qwww.facebook.com/
Aires, Nun is a funky joint that serves up tasty and affordable PanturaStoriediCibo. J
Middle Eastern snacks. Choose from one of the six kebabs on
the menu or build your own from a selection of freshly-baked PRINCI
breads, meat, falafels and vegetables. All sauces and sides Something of a Milanese institution, the Princi chain
are homemade from fresh and top-quality ingredients, and of bakeries are dotted in various location all over the
you can get a cold beer here too. Nun is wildly popular spot city. This one in Brera is a great spot to pick up an early-
and the good news is it’s also open late.QF-2, Via Lazzaro morning croissant or an oven-fresh focaccia as a quick
Spallanzani 36, MLima, tel. (+39) 02 91 63 73 15, www. and tasty lunchtime bite. A mouth-watering array of
nunmilano.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €. freshly-made breads, pizzas and pastries lie in waiting at
Princi’s well-stocked counter. Service can sometimes be a
PANTURA little confusing here, so remember to pay at the till before
We’re going out on a limb, including an eatery that has queuing for food.QC-3, Via Ponte Vetero 10, MCairoli,
no phone number, set hours or even a street address, tel. (+39) 02 72 01 60 67, www.princi.it. Open 07:00 -
but sometimes you discover something special and 20:00. €. PiJA6KS
Autumn 2015 23
Cafés
MORNA
CAFÉS AND BISTROS Tucked away in Milan’s thriving Tortona district is a
B CAFE neighbourhood find both locals and tourists have come to
A small and eclectic bistro located in the heart of the love: Morna. This cafè/pub opens in the early morning for
cinque vie area of Milan, B Cafe is a new addition to the breakfast and keeps serving patrons until at least 02:00. No
up-and-coming cafè scene in the city. The exposed brick matter what the time, your cappuccino or cocktail come
walls, vintage furniture and movie posters create more of a served with a smile and a big dose of hospitality; and
New York than a Milan vibe. This little funky spot serves up you’ll soon feel right at home. In fact, you might just end
homemade croissants in the morning and tasty sandwiches up staying longer than planned, as the atmosphere here
at lunch. At aperitivo, the list of cocktails needs to be seen is infectious. Morna has two outdoor patios and a bocce
to be believed.QC-4, Via San Maurilio 20, MMissori, tel. ball court where you can watch the regulars play (or reserve
(+39) 02 89 09 33 17. Open 07:30 - 02:00. €€. iTJ your own game in advance), and as evening descends the
KS music begins, alluring a jovial crowd six nights a week.
QA-6, Via Tortona 21, MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 345
CHÀ TEA ATELIER 589 50 57. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:30. Closed
If a spot of tea is what you crave, then look no further. Chà Sun. €€. iTJA6UBKX
Tea Atelier both sells and serves an abundance of teas
even the Queen would be impressed by. Owner Gabriella UPCYCLE
Lombardi opened Milan’s first tearoom and shop in 2010 Upcycle is a new cafè restaurant recently opened in the
and has carefully selected each of her 100 plus teas herself Buenos Aires area of the city. Decorated with bikes and bike
from the best growers in China, India, Japan, Taiwan and paraphernalia, the cosy atmosphere here is created by the
Sri Lanka. A judge at the 2015 World Tea Championship, table-sharing setup. Serving homemade cakes and pastries
Lombardi is a revered tea connoisseur and happily shares at reasonable prices, this is a great spot to relax over a coffee
her knowledge about the origins and health benefits of tea, or catch up with a friend. And there’s free Wi-Fi too!QF-1,
and tips to brewing the best cup, at classes held on-site Via Andrea Maria Ampère 59, MLoreto, tel. (+39) 02 83
at Chà Tea Atelier throughout the year. Whether you come 42 82 68, www.upcyclecafe.it. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Mon
to shop or come to sip, you’ll already be planning your 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€.
next visit before you walk out the door.QB-5, Via Marco iJA6BKW
d’Oggiono 7, MSant’Agostino, tel. (+39) 02 89 41 53 71,
www.chateaatelier.it. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:30 - 19:30,
Mon 15:30 - 19:30. Closed Sun. €€. JAK ICE-CREAM PARLOURS
COVA CIOCCOLATITALIANI
Cova is the oldest pasticceria and coffee shop in Milan. Oh, chocolate lovers. Do we have something for you.
Soon after it was established, Cova became a meeting- Call it heaven, call it paradise, call it what you will,
place for Milanese aristocracy. Today, this cafè still Cioccolatitaliani is your dream come true. This gelateria/
welcomes the city’s well-to-do through the doors, you’ll cafè/boutique has pulled out all the stops to satisfy
often see them enjoying a coffee before hitting the your every chocolate desire, piling it high on cones
shops along the chic via Montenapoleone. Famous for topped with meringue or whipped cream; melting it
panettone (a traditional sweetbread) at Christmas, no trip with aromatic fruit and spices to drink; blending it with
to Milan is complete without a visit to this historic cafè. strong espresso to sip; hardening it with nuts to nibble.
QD-3, Via Montenapoleone 8, MMontenapoleone, Even some of the pasta made here features cacao and
tel. (+39) 02 76 00 55 99, info@pasticceriacova.it, www. shaved chocolate.QB-5, Via Edmondo De Amicis
pasticceriacova.it. Open 07:45 - 20:30, Sun 9:00 - 19:00. 25, MSant’Ambrogio, tel. (+39) 02 89 40 66 51,
€€. PJA6UKW deamicis@cioccolatitaliani.it, www.cioccolatitaliani.
it. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00.
DELICATESSEN PiTJA6UBKXSW
Specialising in products from the mountainous South
Tyrol region of Northern Italy, this deli has a distinctly GELATERIA DELLA MUSICA
German flavour. Behind the counter, an array of oven-fresh Using only the highest quality ingredients, from fresh
wholemeal breads and seeded loaves - typical fare of South seasonal fruits to handmade chocolate, Gelateria della
Tyrol - wait to be demolished. Cold-cuts, cheese and wine Musica has been serving up lip smacking and high
characteristic of this alpine region weigh the well-stocked quality ice-cream for years. With over 30 delicious
shelves. A tasty breakfast here consists of a cappuccino flavours to choose from, be sure to try a spoon of salty
dusted with cinnamon and a slice of the homemade apple pistachio.QA-6, Via Giovanni Enrico Pestalozzi 4,
strudel.QC-6, Corso San Gottardo 8, MPorta Genova FS, MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 38 23 59 11, www.
tel. (+39) 02 89 42 11 23, www.delicatessen.eu. Open lagelateriadellamusica.it. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €€. 12:30 - 23:30. Closed Mon. PTJ6S
PiTJA6S
24 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Mention Milan to southern Italians, and they will predictably typical Armani style, and the string of models and classy
shake their heads and say that the city is too busy and guests.QD-3, Via Gastone Pisoni 1, MMontenapoleone,
industrial. Those in the know, however, can appreciate how tel. (+39) 02 62 31 26 55, www.armaniristorante.com/
these two qualities are the ideal ingredients for a city that locations/milano/armani_prive. Open 23:30 - 03:00.
revs up after the sun goes down. The young and upwardly- Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€€. PJA
mobile are on the prowl for after-work hotspots to let off
steam, frequenting everything from rooftop lounges to DIVINA DISCO
underground monasterial refectories-turned-winebars. One of the oldest clubs in Milan, Divina pioneered the
Abandoned industrial warehouses have been transformed PR tactic of drawing crowds through theme nights and
into social centers, concert venues, and nightclubs. Indeed, models. Today it remains not only relevant but a trusted
the bustling velocity of this competitive town has created source of a good time among young people. Thursdays
a culture of one-upmanship that elevates quality over are geared towards university students, while Friday and
quantity. And it is in this setting that the world’s greatest Saturday play popular tracks and attract the bone-crushing
happy hour, or aperitivo, was born. In almost every bar mass of people to prove it.QC-5, Via Molino delle Armi
and cafe across the city, from six in the evening onward, (ang. Via della Chiusa), tel. (+39) 348 108 25 33, info@
the purchase of a single drink grants you access to a food divina.biz. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:30 - 03:00. €€. PJA
spread on par with dinner, depending on the venue. While
some bars offer finger-food samplings, olives, and foccacia, HOLLYWOOD
the more dedicated establishments serve up mountains of A fixture in the local nightlife scene for the past twenty
risotto and pizza squares, and everything from prosciutto years, Hollywood caters to catwalk material, the
trays to seafood skewers, sushi, and dessert. Start your international crowd, and, as of late, also an artsier audience.
evening here, with a drink and all-you-can-eat, before For the price, the venue itself is small and unremarkable,
migrating to a dark, pulsating dancefloor with international but it is almost always sure to be open.QC-1, Corso Como
DJs, retro parties, commercial hits, or artsy playlists. Hit up 15, MGaribaldi FS, tel. (+39) 335 565 38 14, carloz@
the glamorous big names like Armani and Cavalli, or opt for discotecahollywood.com, www.discotecahollywood.it.
the hipster, punk, and underground scenes. Whatever your Open 23:30 - 05:00. Closed Mon. €€. PJA
nocturnal taste, Milan is sure to please.
LOOLAPALOOSA
Start your evening here by booking a table for the tasty
CLUBS aperitivo and excellent menu of special cocktails; stay
11 CLUBROOM for a signature late night of wild dancing on the tables.
This intimate club makes for a sophisticated yet light- The music is occasionally live but mostly consists of
hearted destination at which to dance the night away to commercial DJ sets.QC-1, Corso Como 15, MGaribaldi
Top 40 pop and techno hits, often played by international FS, tel. (+39) 02 65 55 56 93, info@loolapaloosa.com,
deejays. The setting is clean and modern, and the clientele loolapaloosamilano.it. Open 14:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun
are stylish without the snobbery. Modern chandeleries 18:00 - 05:00, Closed July, August. €€. PJEN
dangle above comfortable leather couches that seek
to evoke an aristocratic salon, but chances are good MAGAZZINI GENERALI
that you won’t be sitting in them!QC-1, Via Alessio di Normally a venue for live concerts with a capacity of 1,000,
Tocqueville 11, MGaribaldi FS, tel. (+39) 02 89 28 16 Magazzini, as it is popularly called, is an abandoned warehouse
11, ivan@11milano.it, www.11milano.it. Open 23:00 - transformed into a clubbing hotspot three days a week.
04:00. Closed Mon. €€. PJAGW With its indifference to dress code and less-than-polished
interior, this venue is regarded as a welcome alternative to
ALCATRAZ the stereotypical Milanese nightclub.QVia Pietrasanta 16,
On weekdays this ex-industrial building hosts live concerts, tel. (+39) 02 539 39 48, info@magazzinigenerali.it, www.
but during the weekend it becomes a three-room dance magazzinigenerali.it. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00,
club with varying genres to suit all tastes. Saturday nights Closed July, August. €€. PAU
are home to the popular Welcome to the Jungle party,
a combination of classic oldies from Italy and abroad, TOCQUEVILLE 13
pop-house, reggaeton, and hip-hop.QVia Valtellina 25, A raucous, trendy nightclub in the heart of the fashion
MMaciachini, tel. (+39) 02 69 01 63 52, segreteria@ district with plenty of music choices. Thursday hosts
alcatrazmilano.it, www.alcatrazmilano.it. Open Fri, Sat We Love the 90s, Friday is hip hop, RnB, and Reggaeton,
22:30 - 04:00, Closed July, August. €. PALE and Saturday sticks to big commercial hits. Book a table
on Sundays for the dinner show, complete with Italian
ARMANI PRIVÉ and international DJs.QC-1, Via Alessio di Tocqueville
To enter this exclusive club, the latest addition to Armani’s 13, MGaribaldi FS, tel. (+39) 393 952 70 44, info@
mega-complex, dress to impress and be prepared to wait in tocqueville13.club, www.tocqueville13.club. Open
the queue. Once you’re in, however, you’re sure to be dazzled 23:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:30 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed.
by the elegant Japanese décor, lavish use of abstraction in €€. PJA
Autumn 2015 25
Nightlife
GAY MILAN PUBS
AU VIEUX STRASBOURG
Cosmopolitan, creative, and dramatic, it is no wonder An atmospheric take on the pub scene, Au Vieux Strasbourg
that Milan is home to the largest and most glamorous is all dark wood, cosy nooks, and muted lighting. It offers an
gay scene in Italy. Here you will find that the urbane impressively extensive international beer list, with several
gay community of divas and fashionistas lives Belgian choices on tap, and it may be the only place in
alongside the raw underground sub-culture of artsy town that serves kriek. Comfortable booths and tall bar
and alternative types, with plenty of space left over for stools circling repurposed barrels are perfect for a night out
the unapologetically transgressive. with friends or a quiet conversation. Weekends are busy, as
While there is decidedly a cluster of outright gay bars are football match nights.QVia Gaetano Strambio 29, tel.
and small clubs in the Porta Venezia district, many (+39) 02 70 63 00 62. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 -
venues around town tout themselves as gay-friendly 02:00. €€. PiTA6BK
establishments that attach neither expectations nor
limits to the crowds that flow through their doors. There MURPHY’S LAW
is also no shortage of gay-themed events scheduled at This traditional Irish pub finds its origins in Cork before being
various locales throughout the city, which are guaranteed transported piece by piece, from the wooden chairs to the
to attract a diverse set of party-goers. To find the highlight polished bar, directly from the Emerald Isle to the north of
events of the month, pick up a copy of Zerodue or Milano Italy. The wisecracking staff will happily pour you a Murphy’s
Pride, free magazines available in many of the city’s bars, Irish stout, and the large screen TVs perpetually broadcast the
clubs, and shops that will keep you up to speed. current football match. Vittles include burgers, shepherd’s pie,
For all its deference to the ‘old-fashioned’ way of doing and even piadine for those reluctant to stray far from Italian
things, Italy’s gay culture has even taken the digital cuisine. Tuesday is Karaoke Night, and while this is certainly the
leap in recent years, making use of popular apps such most à propos place to celebrate St Patrick’s Day, step into the
as Grindr and Tinder to establish contact and arrange green-clad mayhem at your own risk!QA-5, Via Montevideo 3,
a rendez-vous. MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 83 24 21 51, murphyslaw.
For access to a slew of gay events and hotspots, register pub@tiscali.it, www.murphyslaw.it. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat,
for a membership card with Arcigay (www.arcigay. Sun 13:00 - 02:00. €€. PTJA6BKW
it), Italy’s first and largest national gay organization. At
€15, the card is valid for a year, and generally can be NOTTINGHAM FOREST COCKTAIL BAR
purchased at the venues that require it for admission. A If you can get a seat at this tiny bar (and that “IF” should be
tourist version, valid for one month, is available for €8. capitalized), you’re in for an unforgettable experience. Harry
ATOMIC BAR Potter, Merlin and Houdini combined have nothing on the
This three room bar is a pre-club hotspot that doubles molecular wizardry of Nottingham Forest’s mixologists,
as a den for the beer-sloshing alternative crowd. Packed whose bags of tricks never cease to amaze. In this quirky bar,
between the 1970s wallpaper and pin-up glam decor, you concoctions come served in all phases of chemical reactions:
will find hipsters, rockers, and above all, the unconventional liquids turn into solids, solids into liquids, and some even“poof”
working it out on the compact dance floor. The music into smoke right in front of your very eyes. With more than
is a great mix of New Wave, 80s, indierock, electro, and 500 eccentric cocktails to choose from it’s not magic but sheer
britpop, and the prices are extremely reasonable.QE-2, brilliance that has landed Nottingham Forest on “the great 50
Via Felice Casati 24, MPorta Venezia, Repubblica, tel. bars of world” list. Word to the wise: no reservations are taken
(+39) 02 89 05 91 69, www.razzputincrew.blogspot. here, so just line up along with Milan’s locals. We assure you,
com. Open 21:30 - 02:00. €. JN it’s worth the wait.QE-3, Viale Piave 1, MPalestro, tel. (+39)
02 79 83 11, www.nottingham-forest.com. Open 18:30 -
PLASTIC 02:00, Sun 18:30 - 01:00. PJA
Since 1980, this establishment has become a beacon of
the avant-garde, eccentric, and transgressive, comparable
to New York’s Studio 54. Andy Warhol famously described
it as the best European club, and over the decades it has
been graced by such celebrities as Madonna, Elton John,
Freddie Mercury, and Prince. Here homo-, bi-, trans-sexuals,
fashionistas, experimentalists and aspiring rock stars can be
found partying to the progressive music program among
neon lights, black walls and kitsch furnishings. Don’t bother
calling ahead; Plastic prides itself on a strict “no lists, no
table” policy, and come prepared for the ultra-strict door
selection.QVia Gargano 15, www.anglerecords.com.
Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. €€. N
© Nottingham Forest Cocktail Bar

26 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
Renaissance work in the city. It is a striking combination
CHURCHES of classical forms and typical Lombard fresco decoration,
BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO MAGGIORE and houses the intricate Ark of St Peter Martyr.QC-5,
Built at the close of the 4th century, this church is one of Piazza Sant’Eustorgio 1, MMissori, tel. (+39) 02 58
the oldest in Milan, rebuilt several times after fires in the 10 15 83, www.santeustorgio.it. Church open 07:30
11th and 12th centuries and the collapse of the cupola - 12:00, 15:30 - 18:30. Capella Portinari open Tue-
in 1573. In front of the church are the Colonne di San Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Church admission free, Cappella
Lorenzo, 16 Corinthian columns dating back to the 2nd Portinari admission €6/3. Combined ticket with
and 3rd centuries, thought to have been moved here from Museo Diocesano, Basilica di San Lorenzo & Cappella
a pagan temple in the 300s. In the centre of the courtyard, di Sant’Aquilino €12/8. YJUN
Emporer Constantine stands in bronze, a tribute to his
Edict of Milan in 313, which ended Christian persecution DUOMO
within the Roman Empire.QC-5, Corso di Porta Ticinese A masterpiece of flying buttresses, 135 spires and 3200
35, MSant’Ambrogio, tel. (+39) 02 89 40 41 29, statues, Milan’s Gothic Duomo is truly breathtaking to
www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com. Open 07:30 - 12:30, behold. It is the third largest church in Europe (behind
14:30 - 18:45, Sun 09:30 - 12:30, 14:30 - 18:45. Church St Peter’s in Rome and the cathedral of Seville), and
admission free, cappella €1,50. Combined ticket with certainly one of the grandest buildings in the world. It
Museo Diocesano, Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio & Cappella was commissioned in 1386 by Gian Galeazzo Visconti with
Portinari €12/8. JUN a congregational capacity of 40,000 - in those days, the
population of Milan. Construction was begun in brick upon
BASILICA DI SANT’AMBROGIO a site that had been associated with places of worship since
Bishop Ambrose, the charismatic patron saint of Milan, the 3rd century, but eventually the architects upgraded
consecrated this Basilica Martyrum in 386. Local it to Condoglian marble shipped from Lake Maggiore.
martyrs Gervasius and Protasius lie in the crypt, and Grandiose as it is, the cathedral took nearly five centuries to
Saint Ambrose himself was buried next to them in 397 complete, and the façade, which is baroque up to the first
(he is still on display in the crypt). The basilica was rebuilt order of windows and neo-Gothic above, was not put on
in the Romanesque style in the 11th century, which is until Napoleon’s order in 1805 before he crowned himself
how it appears today. Noteably, the exterior boasts an king of Italy.
exceptionally large atrium, the monks’ bell tower from
the 10th century, and the more beautiful Canon’s Tower
completed in 1181. The interior features biblical scenes
and reliefs of the Adoration of the Magi and the Labor
of Adam and Eve. The church was constructed outside
the Roman city walls, but became surrounded by the
city in the following centuries. Nine Italian kings were
crowned within between the 9th and 15th centuries,
and today it remains an important site for locals.QB-4,
Piazza Sant’Ambrogio 15, MSant’Ambrogio, tel.
(+39) 02 86 45 08 95, www.basilicasantambrogio.it.
Basilica open Mon-Sat 07:30 - 12:30, 14:30 - 19:00,
Sun 07:30 - 13:00, 15:00 - 20:00. San Vittore chapel
open daily 07:30 - 12:00, 15:30 - 19:00. Admission
free. YJU

BASILICA DI SANT’EUSTORGIO
At the intersection of legend, tradition, and history
stands the Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio. The foundation of
this 4th century basilica is built upon the spot where, © Adrienne Baumann
according to tradition, the apostle Barnabas baptized
the first Christians in Milan. Eustorgio I, the city bishop To appreciate the full scale of the church, head to the
from 344 AD, had the church built to house the relics of left side of the exterior to take the lift (or stairs, if you’re
the Three Kings; legend has it that the animals pulling brave and fancy a lower price) to the roof, which affords
the cart of relics reached the spot and refused to unprecedented proximity with the architecture and, on a
continue. It may also coincide with a cemetery of early clear day, offers views of the Alps. Also to be seen is the
Christians martyred prior to the Edict of Milan. Whatever Madonnina (1774), the copper-gilded figure of Mary on
lies beneath it, today the church is filled with works by the church’s highest spire.
Lombard artists from the 13th to the 15th centuries. The Once in the echoing and equally majestic interior, note
main attraction, however, is the Cappella Portinari the 146 stained-glass windows and the 52 pillars of the
next door, built in the mid-1400s, and the earliest true five aisles representing the weeks of the year. The ceiling
Autumn 2015 27
Sightseeing
appears to be carved, but in fact it is a trompe l’œil. The
sundial on the floor near the main entrance is so precise LANDMARKS
that it was once used to regulate clocks throughout the BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA
city. The remains of earlier churches and the Baptistery can It was the dream of Cardinal Federico Borromeo to build this
be reached via the stairs to the left of the main entrance. library, established in 1609, into a comprehensive resource
QD-4, Piazza del Duomo, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 72 open to scholars and endowed to serve as a bulwark of
02 26 56, www.duomomilano.it. Church open 07:00 Catholic scholarship in the midst of the Counter-Reformation.
- 19:00. Treasury & crypt open Mon-Fri 09:30 - 12:30, His agents scoured Western Europe and the Middle East for
14:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:30, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 books and manuscripts, and today the library houses 30,000
- 15:30. Roof open November-February 09:00 - 16:15, in total, ranging from Greek and Latin to Turkish and Persian
March-October 09:00 - 16:45. Church admission free, and including the Codex Ambrosianus and fragments
baptistry & early Christian excavations €6. Roof tickets of the gospels of Matthew, Mark and Luke. It eventually
€12/6 by lift, €8/3.50 on foot. YJU expanded to encompass the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana art
collection, among which are Da Vinci’s Portrait of a Musician,
SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit, and Raphael’s cartoon of The
This terracotta church and the adjoining Dominican School of Athens.QC-4, Piazza Pio XI 2, MDuomo, tel.
convent, today a UNESCO World Heritage site, were (+39) 02 80 69 21, info@ambrosiana.it, www.ambrosiana.
begun in 1465. The Renaissance apse is credited to eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission
Donato Bramante, but the refectory houses the star of €15/10. Baptistry €10/8, U14 free. YJAU
the show and one of the world’s most iconic images,
Leonardo Da Vinci’s The Last Supper (Cenacolo CA’ GRANDA
Vinciano). Because Da Vinci worked on a dry wall over In form, a paradigmatic example of the Lombard
three years, rather than on wet plaster over a week, the Renaissance, and in function, the home of the arts,
masterpiece is not a fresco, and began to deterioriate history, and law faculties of Milan university. Ca’ Granda
within a few weeks of completion in 1498. It miraculously was conceived in the 15th century by Francesco Forza to
survived Allied bombing in 1943, and has since bring more than 30 of the city’s minor hospitals under one
undergone extensive restoration to preserve its colour. roof, and it also served as a refuge for the poor and sick.
To see the painting, book tickets well in advance over The architect, Antonio Averlino (better known as il Filarete)
the phone or online. You will be allotted a visiting time sought to make the building part of his plan to transform
and reservation number, which must be presented 30 the city into a Renaissance gem able to compete with the
minutes before your visit. Vacancies may be available for grandiosity of Florence. The terracotta façade, decorated
those who turn up at the last moment but don’t count on with Expressionist stone busts, is one of the few in Milan
it!QB-4, Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, MCadorna to survive from the 1400s. The Cortile Maggiore (Great
FN, tel. (+39) 02 467 61 11, www.grazieop.it. Church Courtyard) is graced with extensive porticos and baroque
open Mon-Sat 07:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:30 loggia, and required heavy restoration after World War II.
- 12:15, 15:30 - 21:00. Cenacolo Vinciano open Tue- You don’t have to be a student to stroll the grounds, and
Sun 08:15 - 19:30 via obligatory reservations. Church once peacefully within the storied walls, it will be hard to
admission free. Cenacolo Vinciano admission €8/3.50. believe you are still in the urban heart of Milan.QD-5, Via
YJAU Festa del Perdono 5, MMissori, tel. (+39) 02 50 31 11,
www.unimi.it/ateneo/994.htm. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
SANTA MARIA PRESSO SAN SATIRO 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Admission free. JU
This small church, tucked within the urban heart of the
city, was ordered built in 879 by Archbishop Anspert as CASTELLO SFORZESCO & CIVICI MUSEI
a tribute to Satiro, the brother of St Ambrose. All that At the northern end of via Dante stands the imposing
remains of this original basilica is the Greek-cross Cappella Castello Sforzesco, the city’s greatest attraction after the
della Pietà. The current 15th century church is said to Duomo and bursting at the seams with twelve small
have been prompted by a miracle; it was reconstructed museums and archives referencing everything from
to house the votive painting of Madonna and Child, Palaeolithic history through 20th century furniture. It was
which gushed blood when attacked with a knife in 1242. first constructed in 1358 for the noble Visconti family, and
The structure features Donato Bramante’s barrel-vaulted was destroyed when they were ousted. The Duke of Milan,
nave, ending in a trompe l’œil (one of the finest in the Francesco Sforza, restored it to its original splendour in the
history of art) in order to create the impression of a deep 1450s to be his princely residence, enlisting such painters
apse. Due to the presence of a main road, the space was as da Vinci and Bramante to create the frescoes. During
truncated to just 97cm in length. The Borgognone frescos Napoleonic rule its use was reduced to military purposes,
that once adorned the walls have since been transferred and it was not until the unification of Italy in the 19th
to Pinacoteca di Brera. The façade was not attached until century that the castle was transferred to the city of Milan.
1872.QC-4, Via Torino 17-19, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 The sprawling Parco Sempione just behind, one of the
87 46 83, www.chiesadimilano.it. Open 07:30 - 11:30, largest parks in the city, was created on the former parade
15:30 - 19:00. Admission free. JU grounds.
28 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Visitors enter past the fountain through Piazza d’Armi; from
there, gates lead into the Rocchetta, the oldest part of the DA VINCI’S LAST SUPPER
castle (on the left), and on into the Cortile (Courtyard) and
Palazzo della Corte Ducale (on the right), in Renaissance
style. The entrance to the Civici Musei collection of museums
is here. Continue to the other side to cross the empty
moat and enter Parco Sempione.QC-3, Piazza Castello,
MCairoli, tel. (+39) 02 88 46 37 00, www.milanocastello.
it. Grounds open 08:00 - 18:00, museums Tue-Sun 09:30
- 17:30. Castello admission free. Museum admission €5/3,
combined ticket with all civic museums for 3 days €12,
Tuesdays after 14:00 & daily after 16:30 free. YJU

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II


Affectionately known as il salotto di Milano (Milan’s living
room) for its importance as a social meeting place, this
arcade is one of the world’s oldest shopping malls. It was © Veditalia-ACS S.r.l.
designed and built by Giuseppe Mengoni, who directed CENACOLO VINCIANO
the complex construction of the iron framework and glass Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980,
domes based on the historic arcades of Paris. In 1867 Vittorio Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper attracts droves of
Emanuele II, king of the newly united Italy, presided over visitors from around the world every year. Residing in
the grand inauguration. In an ironic twist of fate, however, the heart of Milan next to the Church of Santa Maria
Mengoni fell to his death from the triumphal arch just one delle Grazie, Da Vinci’s Renaissance masterpiece
day before the galleria was completed in 1877. The architect depicting Jesus and his twelve disciples has undergone
left behind a historical legacy, as the project was carried constant renovation over the centuries, the last one
out during the turbulent period of Italian unification, and enduring a period of 21 years ending in 1999. With
represented a new era of national confidence. The interior is excessive wait times and only 15 minutes allowed per
filled with symbols of patriotism, the most famous of which viewing (both to accommodate more visitors and help
are encoded directly into the mosaic floors. Try to spot the preserve the mural), the best way to enjoy The Last
wolf for Rome, the lily for Florence, the bull for Turin and the Supper is a tour guided by local experts, Veditalia. Their
white flag with a red cross for Milan. Placing the heel of your licensed English-speaking guides provide a lively and
foot on the genitals of the bull and spinning around is said informative overview of Italian Renaissance art and the
to bring good luck; needless to say, this section of the floor history and curiosities surrounding Da Vinci’s painting.
is perpetually blocked by tourists and the mosaic requires From little-known facts (did you know the monastery
constant renovation.QD-4, MDuomo. JU housing The Last Supper was once an armoury and
a prison?) to the maestro’s technique, Veditalia’s
HIGHLINE GALLERIA dynamic tour guides will give you an up-close look
This attraction on the rooftop of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II at this magnum opus that cannot be gleaned from
is the newest addition to Milan’s city centre. Take the elevator a guidebook. With guaranteed access to the front
to the top floor to dine or enjoy aperitivo in the exclusive of the line, this 45-minute tour is definitely time well
restaurant overlooking piazza del Duomo, and then step out spent on your visit to Milan.QB-4, Piazza Santa Maria
onto the top of Milan. For the first time since the completion delle Grazie, MCadorna FN, tel. (+39) 02 87 39 52
of the galleria in 1877, the walkways traversing its roof are 77, info@veditalia.com, www.lastsuppertours.com.
open to the public, offering a full tour of the rooftop amidst Tours Tue-Sun by reservation only. €38. JA
illumination and multimedia effects, as well as skyline views
of the city that neither tourist nor local have ever beheld. To
reserve tickets, visit a MilanTourismPoint.QVia Silvio Pellico 2, of post-World War II reconstruction. Despite serving as a
MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 45 39 76 56, info@highlinegalleria. symbol of national economic development and industry,
com, www.highlinegalleria.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. it was controversially received as it dared to rise above
Admission €12, 6-17 and over 65 €10. YJAK the Madonnina figure on top of the Duomo. At 127m, it
became the tallest building in Milan until the construction
GRATTACIELO PIRELLI of Palazzo Lombardia in 2011. Tragedy struck in 2002 when
Proudly refered to as the Pirellone, or Big Pirelli, between a small single-engine plane collided with it, killing the pilot
1955 and 1960 this 32-floor skyscraper replaced what had and two people within the building. Today, after restoring
been the Pirelli tyre factory since the 1800s. Characterized the integrity of the monument, visitors are able to admire
by its structured skeleton and tapered sides, it was among views of the city and the distant Alps from the viewing deck
the first skyscrapers to abandon the customary block on the 31st floor.QE-1, Via Fabio Filzi 22, MCentrale FS,
form, as designed by a team including Giò Ponti, Pier tel. (+39) 02 69 96 70 01, www.regione.lombardia.it.
Luigi Nervi and Arturo Danusso in an exemplary sample Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission free. JU
Autumn 2015 29
Sightseeing
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO
The central hub for the city’s celebrations and festivities,
this historic piazza takes its name from the looming
cathedral that dominates the northeast edge of the square.
It is significant not only for its geographic prominence, but
also from an artistic, cultural and social point of view. The
piazza is flanked by some of the most important buildings
in Milan, and widely recognized as the preeminent tourist
attraction in town. Originally built in the 14th century
under the direction of Azzone Visconti, lord of Milan,
the space developed over the passing centuries until it
obtained, more or less, its current form from architect
Giuseppe Mengoni in the second half of the 19th century.
Today, the elegant arches and porticos that line the square Teatro Alla Scala - Scene from the Sleeping Beauty © Gene Schiavone
and the imposing grandeur of the Duomo certainly make
this the loveliest and most important spot to see in Milan.
Relish the view from one of the many cafes that surround TORRE BRANCA
it.QD-4, MDuomo. JU At 108.6m high, Torre Branca is Milan’s sixth highest structure
at last count. Originally constructed in 1933 by architect Giò
PIAZZA GAE AULENTI Ponti, the tower reopened in 2002 thanks to a structural
A sleek and futuristic circular piazza at the base of the overhaul by the Branca liquor company (hence the name).
35-floor UniCredit Tower (230m), this square is a Towering over Parco Sempione, it offers stunning views of
distinct departure from the traditional Milanese piazza Milan’s major landmarks, the Duomo, Castello Sforzesco
and a true tribute to the forward-thinking culture of the and Arco della Pace. On a clear day the panorama extends
city. It was inaugurated and dedicated to the architect all the way to the Alps, Appennines and Po Valley.QB-3,
and designer for which it is named in 2012. Ascend six Viale Luigi Camoens 2, MCadorna FN, tel. (+39) 02 331
meters above street level to enjoy the infinity fountain 41 20, www.turismo.milano.it/torrebranca. Open 10:30 -
in the center or browse the shops and cafes that hug the 13:00, 15:00 - 19:00, 20:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 14:00,
perimeter. In warm months, the piazza is alive with pop- 14:30 - 19:30, 20:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Elevator tickets
up bars and TV screens broadcasting the current football €4, U3 free. TYJUN
match; this is the ideal place to grab a drink and a seat
with a sturdy backrest to take in the vertical view.QD-1,
MGaribaldi FS. JU MUSEUMS
ARMANI/SILOS
TEATRO ALLA SCALA If you love fashion then a visit to this temple of Armani
This world-renown opera house, just steps from piazza design should top your “to-do” list while in Milan. Owned
del Duomo, was founded in 1778 under the auspices of by Giorgio Armani himself, Silos is situated in the trendy
Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, to replace the Royal Ducal Tortona district in a former granary. Spread over 4500
Theatre which burned down two years earlier. It takes its square metres, the museum showcases 40 years of
name from the church Santa Maria alla Scala, demolished fashion design in themed exhibits that total about 600
to make room for the new theatre. Today, the theatre seats pieces exclusively by Armani.QA-6, Via Bergognone 40,
1,987 spectators, and its repertory is varied, including a MPorta Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 91 63 00 10, info@
large number of unfamiliar works balanced by a limited armanisilos.com, www.armanisilos.com. Open 11:00
number of popular favourites. For those who enjoy operatic - 20:00, Thu, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission
history, visit the Museo teatrale alla Scala, complete €12/15. PJAUK
with original hand-written scores and manuscripts. Even
those who are not opera aficionados will be dazzled by CASA MUSEO BOSCHI-DI STEFANO
the gold and mirrored entryway (which doubled as a Among the approximately 2,000 works collected by Antonio
casino in the theatre’s early years) and the elegant boxes Boschi and Marieda di Stefano, 300 were selected for their
encircling the stage. A peak inside the main hall is breath- quality and are displayed chronologically across the eleven
taking, but nothing compares to the full experience, and exhibition spaces of this home-turned-museum. The
there are certainly deals to be had on tickets. The opera husband and wife pair, famous for once selling their car to
and ballet season runs from December through the buy more paintings and celebrated for hiding the collection
following November; other performances are scheduled during World War II, left their life’s work to the city of Milan.
year-round.QC-3, Via Filodrammatici 2, MDuomo, tel. Today the foundation offers an extraordinary testimony to
(+39) 02 88 791, biglietteria@teatroallascala.org, www. 20th century Italian art, from the first decade to the end of
teatroallascala.org. Open 09:00 - 12:30, 13:30 - 17:30. the 1960s.QF-2, Via Giorgio Jan 15, MLima, tel. (+39) 02
Museum admission €7/5/3. Box office ticket prices vary 74 28 10 00, www.fondazioneboschidistefano.it. Open
based on performance. YJAU 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. YJU
30 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
FONDAZIONE PRADA HANGARBICOCCA
A former distillery dating back to 1910, Fondazione In 2004 an industrial hangar was converted into this
Prada’s permanent new home in Milan juxtaposes post- multipurpose exhibition space dedicated to the production
industrial architecture with modern design to create an of contemporary art. HangarBicocca features international
eclectic atmosphere ideally suited to the diversity of its artists focused on experimentation and site-specific
exhibitions. Here cultural evolution and free thought have projects that allow viewers to double as participants within
found the perfect home and express themselves in many the space. With a constantly varied calendar of events,
forms: cinema, science, music, philosophy, literature and including those for children, the programme often includes
contemporary art. Needless to say, there is something film festivals, meetings with curator and artist, and one-of-
for everyone at Fondazione Prada, from indie film buffs a-kind installations.QVia Chiese 2, tel. (+39) 02 66 11 15
to free-thinkers, modern art enthusiasts to philosophers. 73, www.hangarbicocca.org. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed
Even children will enjoy the premises and creative play Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission free. TU
workshops held most weekends at the foundation’s
Accademia dei Bambini.QLargo Isarco 2, MLodi TIBB, MUBA MUSEO DEI BAMBINI MILANO
tel. (+39) 02 56 66 26 11, info@fondazioneprada. Hey kids! This spot’s for you. An open space filled with tactile
org, www.fondazioneprada.org. Open 10:00 - 21:00, and visual stimuli where your imagination can run free and
Accademia dei Bambini closed in August. Admission creativity go wild. Museo dei Bambini Milano (MUBA), the
€10/8, U18 free. iTAUK Milan Children’s Museum, offers fun and inexpensive weekly
workshops where little ones can transform repurposed
GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA GAM materials of all kinds into their own innovative creations. Special
Housed in a masterpiece of Neoclassicism formerly known events focusing on food and nutrition are also happening
as Villa Reale, the structure surrounding this 19th century throughout the duration of Expo 2015 for a nominal entrance
art collection is reason enough to visit. The villa was built fee. The museum’s Rotunda features a hands-on play area
by Austrian architect Leopold Pollack in 1792, and it was and rotating installations by up-and-coming designers,
Napoleon’s residence of choice when he entered the photographers and artists that can be visited at no charge.
city in 1802, followed by Austrian field marshal Joseph QE-5, Via Besana 12, tel. (+39) 02 43 98 04 02, info@muba.
Radetzky. Now the building is an elegant manifestation of it, www.muba.it. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 09:30 - 15:30, Sat,
the continuity between content and form, as emphasized Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Children €8, adults €6. TJAUK
by the museum’s splendid display of works largely
commissioned by prominent Milanese families. It spans
35 rooms over two floors, including works from the
protagonists of Italian art and sculpture such as Giorgio
Morandi, Francesco Hayez, Pompeo Marchesi, Giovanni
Segantini, and Gaetano Previati. The ballroom and former
living areas house samplings from the Romantic period
and Futurist pieces (noteably, the socialist Arte Nuova
movement’s icon, The Fourth Estate by Giuseppe Pellizza
da Volpedo). Wander the second floor to see Van Gogh,
Cézanne, Matisse, and Picasso. Before leaving, explore the
paths of the lush grounds from where the villa can be duly
admired.QE-3, Via Palestro 16, MPalestro, tel. (+39) 02 © MUBA Museo dei Bambini
88 44 59 47, www.gam-milano.com. Open 09:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon. Admission €5/3, free daily after 16:30 & MUDEC MUSEO DELLE CULTURE
Tuesdays after 14:00. U18 free. YJA Out of the wreckage of a former industrial plant rises a
masterpiece of modern architecture. Designed by British
GALLERIE D’ITALIA - PIAZZA SCALA architect Sir David Chipperfield, the 17,000 square foot Museo
This modern and contemporary museum is fittingly delle Culture is a newcomer to the cultural scene in Milan
displayed in the rooms of the exquisite 18th-19th century and absolutely worth the metro trip to Porta Genova FS.
Palazzo Anguissola and Palazzo Brentani. 197 works from Built up over two hundred years via donations by explorers,
the 19th century from the Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa scholars, missionaries, collectors and other museums, MUDEC’s
Sanpaolo collections can be perused in an exhibition collections total over 7,000 items dating as far back as 1200 BC
entitled From Canova to Boccioni, and the newest section and spanning a geographical area that encompasses Asia, Africa,
within Palazzo della Banca Commerciale Italiana, Cantiere Oceania and the Americas. One can easily spend an entire day
del ‘900, contains 189 art works from the Italian post- here, so luckily there is a bistrot on-site for quick bites as well as
World War II period.QD-4, Via Alessandro Manzoni 10, an elegant restaurant with window’s overlooking the state-of-
MDuomo, tel. 800 16 76 19, info@gallerieditalia.com, the-art museum.QA-6, Via Tortona 56, MPorta Genova FS,
www.gallerieditalia.com. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Thu 09:30 tel. (+39) 02 54 917, info@mudec.it, www.mudec.it. Open
- 22:30. Closed Mon. Admission €10/8/5, every first 09.30 - 19.30, Mon 14:30 - 19:30, Thu, Sat 09.30-22.30. €15/13
Sunday of the month free €. JAU includes audio guide, U14 €5. PiTJAUK
Autumn 2015 31
Sightseeing
MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI of design or Italian art, it is not to be missed, and everyone
United by a shared passion for Italian Renaissance art, can enjoy the uninterrupted view of piazza del Duomo
brothers Fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi spent the from the wall of windows on the first floor and the rooftop
second half of the 19th century lovingly restoring and restaurant-bar. Among the Italian masters with work on
decorating their family home to resemble the aristocratic display are Amedeo Modigliani, Giorgio de Chirico, Umberto
mansions of Lombardy in the 15th and 16th centuries. Boccioni, Giacomo Balla, Carlo Carrà, Lucio Fontana, and
Left untouched thanks to the family’s preservation efforts, Giorgio Morandi. The masterpieces of international artists
each piece in the house museum’s collection resides in such as Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky, Piet Mondrian,
its original place allowing the visitor to literally step back and Henri Matisse can also be seen.QD-4, Via Guglielmo
in time upon crossing the threshold. Tucked into the Marconi 1, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 44 40 61, www.
Montenapoleone fashion district, the Bagatti Valsecchi museodelnovecento.org. Open 09:30 - 17:30, Mon 14:30
museum is a testament to Milan’s noble heritage and - 19:30, Thu, Sat 09:30 - 22:30. Admission €5/3, students
its denizens appreciation of the arts.QD-3, Via Gesù 5, under 24 free. YJAU
MMontenapoleone, tel. (+39) 02 76 00 61 32, www.
museobagattivalsecchi.org. Open 13:00 - 17:45, Thu MUSEO DEL RISORGIMENTO
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. € 9/6, U5 free. YJAU The 18th century Palazzo Moriggia houses a collection
of artwork and objects that illustrate the history of
MUSEO CIVICO DI STORIA NATURALE DI Italian unification, from Napoleon’s first Italian campaign
MILANO of 1796 up to the annexation of Rome in 1870. The
Conveniently located in the Giardini Pubblici Indro permanent display chronologically traces the events of
Montanelli, the Natural History Museum is a great stop the Risorgimento, complete with weapons, photographs,
for families visiting Milan. Divided into five different paintings, and a vast collection of documents from the
sections: Mineralogy; Paleontology; Natural History of period. Of particular interest are the green and silver velvet
Man; Invertebrate Zoology; and Vertebrate Zoology; the cloak and regal insignia from Napoleon’s coronation, the
museum also houses a sizeable collection of life-sized banner of the Legione Lombarda Cacciatori a Cavallo
dioramas depicting ecosystems that are bound to fascinate (Lombard Legion on Horseback), and the first Italian flag.
children. Don’t miss the spectacular European debut of There are multimedia and interactive centers, as well as
Spinosaurus: Lost Giant of the Cretaceous showing now constantly changing exhibitions.QD-3, Via Borgonuovo
through mid-January at the recently reopened Palazzo 23, MMontenapoleone, tel. (+39) 02 88 46 41 80, www.
Dugnani, the original site of the Natural History Museum museodelrisorgimento.mi.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 -
located nearby in the public gardens.QE-3, Corso Venezia 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission €5/3, U18 free, admission
55, MPalestro, tel. (+39) 02 88 46 33 37, www.comune. free daily 16:30 - 17:30, Tuesday 14:00 - 17:30. YJ
milano.it/museostorianaturale. Open 9:00 - 19:30. AU
Closed Mon. €5/3, Tuesdays after 14:00 & first Sunday of
the month free. TYJAU MUSEO DI MILANO E STORIA CONTEMPORANEA
Located on the first floor of the 18th century Palazzo
MUSEO DELLA PIETÀ RONDANINI Morando Attendolo Bolognini, this compact museum is
Just before his death in 1564, Michelangelo Buonarroti alive with the private collection of the Countess Bolognini,
was in Rome working on what today is considered his featuring porcelain, sculptures, and other pieces displayed
last unfinished masterpiece, The Pietà. Carved out of a in what were once her private apartments. They now also
single piece of marble, the sculpture depicts the figure of house a section of the city’s civic art, as well as Luigi Beretta’s
Christ and the Virgin encircled in a tender embrace. The collection, which he donated in 1935. The paintings shown
whereabouts of The Pietà were a mystery for centuries, in this museum have helped historians understand the
until finally it was found at the home of Marquis Giuseppe layout of Milan as it was during the Napoleonic era and
Rondinini, a Roman art collector, and purchased by the city under Austrian rule, and map the urban development since
of Milan in 1952. Recently opened to the public for the then.QD-3, Via Sant’Andrea 6, MSan Babila, tel. (+39)
first time, the Ospedale Spagnolo (Spanish Hospital) inside 02 76 00 62 45, www.museodistoriacontemporanea.
Castello Sforzesco is the perfect setting in which to admire it. Open 14:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission free,
Michelangelo’s last work in quiet reverie.QC-3, Piazza exhibitions free - €5. J
Castello, MCairoli, tel. (+39) 02 88 46 38 35, www.
milanocastello.it. Open 9:00 - 19:30, Thu 9:00 - 22:30. MUSEO MONDO MILAN
Closed Mon. €5/3. Admission free the last hour and If you are a football fan (that’s soccer for you Americans),
every Tuesday after 14:00. TYJAU then a visit to Museo Mondo Milan is a must-see on your
itinerary. Housed in the brand new Casa Milan headquarters
MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO of professional Italian football club A.C. Milan, the museum
Just adjacent to the Duomo, this museum features one of is a tribute to the history of this internationally popular
the largest national collections of Italian and international team and includes interactive video, historic memorabilia,
20th century art, with sections dedicated to Futurism, players’ jerseys and trophies from the Champions League,
Spatialism, and Arte Povera. For students and connoisseurs Scudetto and Coppa Italia. Through December, don’t miss
32 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
PALAZZO REALE
Originally the seat of Milan’s government from medieval
times through World War I, today Palazzo Reale is a
flourishing center of arts and culture in Milan. Destroyed
and rebuilt several times over the centuries, the palace
has undergone major restoration work allowing visitors to
finally climb its grand neoclassical staircase and enter its
halls where important art exhibits take place. History buffs
will enjoy the museum’s permanent itinerary representing
four eras of the historic building: Teresiana and Neoclassical;
Napoleonic era; Restoration; and the Unification of Italy.
This summer Palazzo Reale also rotates exhibitions of
important art collections, including the masterpieces of
Museo Mondo Milan © Davide Arena Leonardo da Vinci and Giotto; 16th century tapestries by
Mondo Milan’s special exhibition, The Cup Factory, which Pontormo e Bronzinoto chronicling the life of Giuseppe;
unveils the fascinating origin of trophies and sheds light and thematic showcases La Grande Madre and Natura -
on the craftsmanship and artisans behind each cup.QVia Mito e Paesaggio nel Mondo Antico (Myth and Landscape
Aldo Rossi 8, MLotto, QT8, tel. (+39) 02 62 28 56 04, in the Ancient World).QD-4, Piazza del Duomo 12,
www.casamilan.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 88 46 52 30, www.comune.
€18/12. U7 free. PTAUK milano.it/palazzoreale. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Thu, Sat
09:30 - 22:30. €12/7.50, U6 free. TAU
MUSEO NAZIONALE DELLA SCIENZA E DELLA
TECNOLOGIA LEONARDO DA VINCI PINACOTECA DI BRERA
With its collection of over 10,000 items over three floors, This formidable art collection, housed in the picturesque
it comes as no surprise that this museum is the largest of Palazzo di Brera, was amassed (or appropriated) from
its kind in Italy, and a fitting tribute to the city’s cherished churches and monasteries by none other than Napoleon.
former resident, for whom it is named. Once a 16th century The palace itself was built in 1651 for the Jesuits; in 1776
monastery, then a military hospital under Napoleon, a wing was allocated to the Accademia di Belle Arti,
and reduced to rubble during Allied air raids, the current still in operation today on the lower level. The size of the
museum was finally opened in 1953. On show is every collection makes for an easy visit with exquisite pieces,
aspect of industry and technology, from Pascal’s 1642 abacus including works by major Italian painters from the 13th
to the first IBM processor, horology, telecommunications, through the 20th centuries. On show are pieces by Andrea
astronomy, physics, optics, acoustics, metallurgy, the work Mantegna, Giovanni Bellini, Piero della Francesca, Donato
of Da Vinci, and challenges for a better future. Avid visitors Bramante, and Caravaggio. The Orto Botanico behind the
will want a full day inside, and the interactive hands-on labs Pinacoteca is also a peaceful haven from the city buzz.
are perfect for the youngest guests. Not to be missed is the QC-3, Via Brera 28, MLanza, tel. (+39) 02 72 26 32 64,
Enrico Toti S-506, the first submarine made in Italy after www.brera.beniculturali.it. Open 08:30 - 19:30. Closed
World War II.QB-4, Via San Vittore 21, MSant’Ambrogio, Mon. Admission €10/7, every first Sunday of the month
tel. (+39) 02 48 55 51, www.museoscienza.org. Open free. YAU
09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:30. Closed Mon.
Admission €10/7.50, U3 free. TYJAU PLANETARIO DI MILANO ULRICO HOEPLI
Sit back, relax and enjoy a magical journey through the
MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI starry night sky at Italy’s largest planetarium. Designed by
This quirky museum first opened to the public in 1881, architecht Piero Portaluppi, the Planetarium of Milano was
two years after the death of art enthusiast and founder donated by publisher Ulrico Hoepli to the city of Milan in
Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli. Each room contains a tasteful 1930. Under its large dome, a Zeiss IV projector makes the
collection of antique and decorative arts inspired by a heavens above come to life over the silhouette of Milan’s
particular style from the past, from early gold timepieces, skyline, eliciting “oohs and aahs” from spectators of all ages.
jewellery and porcelain to glasswork, books, carpets, QE-3, Corso Venezia 57, MPorta Venezia, tel. (+39)
tapestries and sculptures spanning the 14th to 19th 02 88 46 33 40, www.comune.milano.it/planetario.
centuries. An armoury downstairs boasts more than Showings at 21:00 on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 15:00
100 coats of armour worn by European princes, and the and 16:30 on Saturdays and Sundays. Consult the
admirable round-up of paintings includes Botticelli, Foppa, Planetarium’s on-line calendar for special showings.
and Montegna. The rooms have been restored to evoke Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. €5/3. PTYJUN
the eccentric nature of the collectors and are certain to
suit the visitor’s fancy.QD-3, Via Alessandro Manzoni
12, MMontenapoleone, tel. (+39) 02 79 48 89, www. instagram.com/in_your_pocket
museopoldipezzoli.it. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.
Admission €10/7, U10 free. YJAU
Autumn 2015 33
Sightseeing
SAN SIRO STADIUM AND MUSEUM the fascist period of design, this superb museum is
Whether you call it football or soccer, you’ve come to the right a necessary visit to understand the history of Italian
place if you’re a fan of the sport. Giuseppe Meazza Stadium, design, architecture, urban planning, and media arts.
better known as San Siro, is home to Milan’s two clubs and The spacious open-plan showroom displays everything
arch rivals: A.C. Milan and F.C. Internazionale Milano (aka from Olivetti typewriters to Fornasetti graphics, and
Inter). Take a guided tour for a behind-the-scenes peek at life insightfully delineates the relationship between art
inside the stadium walls including the teams’ locker rooms, and industry that is central to the country’s vibrant
tunnels and field where many a legend has trod. You can creative sensibility. At least two large-scale design-
also skip the tour and just visit the San Siro museum where themed temporary exhibitions are hosted here at
memorabilia, trophies and jerseys tell the century-old story any one time. Next to the impressive ground-floor
of Milano’s most beloved sporting teams.QPiazzale Angelo bookshop, the DESIGN café serves up coffee and baked
Moratti, MSan Siro Stadio, tel. (+39) 02 404 24 32, www. sweets to an artsy crowd perched on a collection of
sansiro.net. Open 09:30-18:00. Admission €12/17 for tour mismatched designer chairs.QB-3, Viale Alemagna
+ museum. Museum only €5/7. U6 free. TYAUK 6, MCadorna FN, tel. (+39) 02 72 43 41, www.
triennale.org. Open 10:30 - 20:30, Thu 10:30 - 23:00.
TRIENNALE DESIGN MUSEUM Closed Mon. Admission to all exhibitions €10,
Located within the Palazzo d’Arte, noteable from individual exhibitions vary based on scope, U6 free.
the outside for the tall, minimal arches that marked YJAU

GREEN MILAN
layout, complete with
It used to be said that Milan offered scant green spaces water elements and stoney
in the midst of its industrial roots and business-oriented outcroppings, is owed to
horizon, but today this is far from true. In recent years Emilio Alemagna for the
the city has made a concerted effort to expand its 1871 World Fair. At the
eco-friendly posturing, a movement which has been eastern entrance stands the
wholeheartedly embraced by the Milanese, from the Museo Civico di Storia © Comune di Milano
institutional crowd toting purse-sized dogs to the artsy Naturale (1888-1893) and
hipster crew. There is a sense in which the elegance that the Planetario di Milano (1930); to the southwest you
characterizes the city seeks airing-out, and even that will find Villa Reale (now GAM) and Palazzo Dugnani
must be done in style; what better place than within the (17th-18th century). The tree-lined pathways, punctuated
eyeline of the civic castle or in the shadow of an ancient by wooden benches, are frequented by joggers and
basilica? Milan’s network of parks includes a grand total prams out for a stroll, and in typical Milanese fashion,
of 54, spread out across the city, as well as more than 20 there is no shortage of dogs.QD/E-3, MPalestro, Porta
splendid gardens and a smattering of undefined green Venezia, Repubblica, Turati. March, April, October
spaces replete with gazebos and kiosks. In this town even open 06:30 - 21:00, May 06:30 - 22:00, June-September
hints of the rural have a backstory; hiding just over the 06:30 - 23:30, November-February 06:30 - 20:00. J6
next dip in the footpath there is sure to be a monument
to Napoleon, a historic villa, or an unlikely bar serving up PARCO SEMPIONE
the best caffé macchiato in town. To the north of Castello Sforzesco a green expanse of 47
As in all other areas of its urbanity, Milan’s greenery is hectares stretches all the way to Napoleon’s neoclassical
also looking to the future. Just steps from Porta Garibaldi Arco della Pace, making it the largest park in Milan. The
train station, the Porta Nuova neighborhood boasts the Arena Civica, a small-scale colosseum towards the back,
Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest), a pair of residential is another addition from the Napoleonic era, and was
towers hosting over 900 trees on the balconied exterior used for outdoor entertainment. The city’s French rulers
of sleek modern structures. The Expo 2015 has the city first carved out the space in the early 19th century, and
buzzing with talk of sustainability, agro-innovation, and it was finally landscaped in 1893 by Emilio Alemagna
waste reduction. It seems Milan’s sub-heading as ‘the city in the then-popular English garden style. Within the
of hidden gardens’ is more than a quaint reference to lush park today are a handful of cafés and restaurants, the
private courtyards; the culture of greenery is emerging Triennale Design Museum, the small Acquario, and
and expanding from parks to broader policy. Giò Ponti’s Torre Branca with sweeping views of the city.
On sunny days this is the place to be; the park is packed
GIARDINI PUBBLICI INDRO MONTANELLI with runners, cyclists, sunbathers, and teenagers kicking
Established in 1784, these gardens compose the oldest around a football.QB/C-3, MCairoli, Cadorna, Lanza.
city park in Milan, and have been repeatedly enlarged March-April, October open 06:30 - 21:00, May 06:30
over the centuries. They were built in the style of French - 22:00, June-September 06:30 - 23:30, November-
formal gardens by Giuseppe Piermarini, but the current February 06:30 - 20:00. J6

34 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
Flick through the glossy pages of a fashion or design
magazine in any corner of the world and one city will THE QUADRILATERO D’ORO
dominate the column inches like no other. Milan, the
internationally renowned leader in style and a mecca
for any fashionista worth her salt, has been setting
trends before trend-setting even began. Many imitators
have nipped at Milan’s well-shod heels in an attempt to
claim the Fashion Capital’s crown, but no other city can
really compare when it comes to the vibrant and diverse
shopping scene available here. From high-concept
furniture design spaces and independently run boutiques
selling custom jewellery, to vintage markets and usual
high-street favourites, the quality and choice on offer is
second to none. And in spite of being the home of fashion
powerhouses like Prada and Gucci, Milan has something © Sergio Calleja
to offer to everyone - even to those without a Gucci
If Milan is the fashion capital of the world, then the
budget.
Quadrilatero d’Oro district is the beating heart of this
For the most part, Milan is a pedestrian-friendly city and
vibrant and stylish town. Long considered to be one
the main shopping thoroughfares can be found in the
of the world’s most important centres of fashion and
centre of town. Choose your shoes wisely though! As
home to Milan’s most exclusive stores and workshops,
tempting as it is to do on a pair of stilettos and sashay
the Quadrilatero d’Oro - unromantically translated
around the city in true suave Italian style, navigating
as ‘The Golden Rectangle’ - is the name given to a
some of the cobbled streets might prove difficult for even
tangle of streets located just north of the Duomo.
the most seasoned shopper! If you’re looking to splurge
The district takes its geometrical moniker from the
on designer brands, don’t miss the Quadrilatero d’Oro.
four main thoroughfares that surround it - via Monte
This area plays host to Dolce and Gabbana, Versace and
Napoleone, via Manzoni, via della Spiga and corso
many more high-end stores. For high-street fashion
Venezia. Every inch of this area is tightly packed
brands like Gap and Zara, try corso Vittorio Emanuele II
with the best of haute couture, and is a veritable
(D-4) or via Torino (C-4/5), both found right beside the
roll call of all the instantly recognisable high-end
Duomo. Bargain hunters should head to corso Buenos
names including Armani, Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada,
Aires (E-2/F-1/2), located just northeast of the centre.
Versace and Valentino.
There you’ll be able to find great deals in the hundreds
Often classed as one of the chicest and most expensive
of shops lining the bustling 3km street. The Brera district
streets in the world, take a trip down via Monte
(C-3) offers design lovers the chance to explore a number
Napoleone (D-3/4) and it’s easy to see why. On this
of artisan boutiques selling hand-crafted furniture and
bustling street you’ll find several Prada stores, the
accessories. A haven for hipsters can be found on corso
flagship Gucci store, Pucci, Cartier and Fendi to name
di Porta Ticinese (C-5).
but a few. Take a pit stop halfway down the street at
Most shops in the city centre stay open until 19:00, but
Cova café and watch Milan’s well-to-do enjoy a coffee
remember that if you venture outside of town, you might
between purchases.
find some places closed for lunch. But don’t worry, they
On via Sant’Andrea (D-3), look out for Hermès,
reopen again at 15:00.
Chanel and Armani. Bonus points if you manage to tear
yourself away from the shops to check out the Museo
DEPARTMENT STORES di Milano housed in the 17th century Palazzo Bolognini.
Pretty and pedestrianised via della Spiga (D-3) is the
COIN
kind of street that tourists expect to see when they visit
With a great collection of top-quality and reasonably
Italy. Stroll along the cobbled streets and discover two
priced clothing for men, women and children, Coin store
Dolce and Gabbana stores, Roberto Cavalli, Tiffany & Co.
in Piazza V Giornate is a popular shopping destination
and ever more Prada. If you only have time to squeeze
for Milanese and tourist alike. The selection of brands
in one store during your stay in Milan, don’t miss the
like Mango, Kiehl’s, as well as Coin’s own-brand of
Armani Megastore on via Manzoni (D3/4) - it even
homewares, shoes and bags, means that shoppers
has it’s own Nobu restaurant.
on the hunt for classic Italian style will not be left
Like big-name brands but don’t have the big-name
disappointed. A restaurant, Globe, on the top floor is a
budget? Not a problem! The ornately decorated
great spot to unwind after negotiating the eight stores
storefronts of the Quadrilatero d’Oro make for a window
of this sleek department store.QE-4, Piazza Cinque
shoppers paradise and provide the perfect inspiration
Giornate 1/A, tel. (+39) 02 55 19 20 83, www.coin.it.
to create the latest looks on your own budget.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:30. PTJA
The stores in Milan’s Quadrilatero d’Oro are open from
6UVBK
10:00 - 19:00. Some stores may be closed on Sunday.

Autumn 2015 35
Shopping
EXCELSIOR MILANO become synonymous with Italian style. The flagship
The pulsing bass lines echoing around the halls of the store at Turati is spread over two levels. Inside you will
galleria del Corso signal imminent arrival at Excelsior Milano. find beautifully designed chairs, lamps, containers and
Once inside, it is easy to understand that this is a concept tables made of durable plastics and metals. A must for
store on a grandiose scale. Over the seven floors of this all lovers of interior design.QD-3, Via Filippo Turati 5,
former cinema, high-concept design, fashion and beauty MTurati, tel. (+39) 02 659 79 16, milano@kartellflag.
brands mingle with gourmet dining experiences. Complete com, www.kartell.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 15:00
with video installations and a DJ curated soundtrack, the - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA6
sleek and minimalistic interior design is reason alone to
visit. Excelsior Milano plays home to a Tiffany jewellers and
stocks only the best quality electronics, accessories and FASHION
fashion labels. A must-see for design enthusiasts.QD-4, 10 CORSO COMO
Galleria del Corso 4, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 76 30 73 Founded by former Vogue Editor Carla Sozzani, 10
01, www.excelsiormilano.com. Open 10:00 - 20:30. Corso Como is perhaps the world’s most famous
PJA6 concept shop. Stepping through the doorway from
the bustling Corso Como is like being transported into
LA RINASCENTE another world. The garden cafè in the courtyard oozes
Spread over eight floors, La Rinascente, is a one-stop-shop with tranquillity - a rare find in this frenetic city. The
for high-end, luxury shopping in Milan. Stocking everything store stocks an eclectic and chic mix of clothing and
from cosmetics and lingerie to tailored suits and linens, all accessories from brands like Alexander McQueen and
the major international and Italian big brand players can Valentino. The bookshop offers an interesting selection
be found here. Top picks include: the basement level which ranging from art and design, to photography and
houses a Nespresso boutique and funky homewares and fashion. With a gallery and restaurant, this space is
the mezzanine; dedicated to designer handbags. Take a must for lovers of culture and design.QC-1, Corso
the over-street bridge on level 3 to check out the newly Como 10, MGaribaldi FS, tel. (+39) 02 29 00 26 74,
opened Annex - home to Italy’s only Urban Outfitters store. shop@10corsocomo.com, www.10corsocomo.com.
Foodies, don’t miss the gourmet food-hall on the top floor. Open 10:30 - 19:30, Wed, Thu 10:30 - 21:00. Pi
Enjoy a drink and spectacular views of the Duomo from the JA6K
rooftop terrace.QD-4, Piazza del Duomo, MDuomo, tel.
(+39) 02 45 86 46 11, www.rinascente.it. Open 09:30 - IL SALVAGENTE
21:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PJ If you’re looking for big brand names without the hefty
A6UGBK price tag, take a trip to Milan’s most famous designer
outlet, Il Salvagente. The name of the store literally means
‘lifesaver’, and true to form, the rails of this store’s three
DESIGN floors are packed tightly with discounted names such as
HIGHTECH Versace, Fendi and Armani - to name but a few. Catering to
Once home to the factory that supplied ink to Italy’s both men and women, and with new stock arriving every
most famous newspaper, Corriere della Sera, this home- day, this store is a must for the price conscious, brand-
store is a must-visit for the design conscious shopper. loving shopper, with up to 70% off Italian designer names.
Spread over three labyrinth-like floors, here you’ll be QF-4, Via Fratelli Bronzetti 16, tel. (+39) 02 76 11 03 28,
able to find everything you need (and everything you info@salvagentemilano.it, www.salvagentemilano.it.
didn’t know you needed) to kit out your house. From Open 10:00 - 19:30, Mon 15:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 19:00,
kitchenware to couches, be prepared to get lost among Open all of August with the exception of August 15 and
the shelves of stylish wares on offer.QC-2, Piazza XXV 16. 6N
Aprile 12, MGaribaldi FS, tel. (+39) 02 624 11 01, www.
cargomilano.it/stores/negozio/2. Open 10:30 - 19:30, SERENDEEPITY
Mon 13:30 - 19:30. JA Just at the end of corso di Porta Ticinese, a hip street
full of independent boutiques and bars is Serendeepity;
KARTELL a concept store specializing in vintage fashions, vinyl
Founded in Milan in 1949 by Giulio Castelli, Kartell is records and technology. Get lost browsing the stacks of
now probably one of Italy’s most recognisable design records on offer. All genres are catered for here - from 70s
brands. Castelli’s mission was clear from the beginning. funk to hip-hop and electro. Want to try before you buy?
He wanted to change the way the world viewed plastic; Pop on a set of headphones and sample your pick on one
transforming something considered to be cheap and of the in-store turntables. Head downstairs to check out
disposable into something glamorous and functional that the unique selection of clothes and accessories.QC-6,
people would be proud to have in their homes. Indeed, Corso di Porta Ticinese 100, MPorta Genova FS, tel.
over the past 60 years this mission has been achieved. (+39) 02 89 40 04 20, info@serendeepity.net, www.
By employing only the most creative and innovative serendeepity.net. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 15:00 -
designers, Kartell’s furniture, gadgets and objets have 20:00. JA6
36 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
FOOD AND WINE SPORT STORES
ENOTECA COTTI FERRARI STORE
Milan’s oldest enoteca, for over 60 years the Cotti family Chances are when you think of Italy, a red Ferrari makes your
have been selling an impressive array of wines, grappa, Top 5 list alongside pizza, pasta and all things quintessentially
cognac and Italian craft beers to discerning Milanese Italian. There’s no doubt the fast, sleek car of Formula 1 and
customers. A host of other gastronomic delights are on elite status symbol of the upper crust is an iconic symbol of
sale here as well, from foie gras to pastries.QC-2, Via Italian design; and while most people may never have the
Solferino 42, MMoscova, tel. (+39) 02 29 00 10 96, chance to drive one, you can now come one step closer to
info@enotecacotti.it, www.enotecacotti.it. Open 09:00 - the Prancing Horse at the brand new flagship Ferrari Store in
13:00, 15:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAS downtown Milan. The megalithic shopping destination covers
750 square metres over three floors and carries men’s, women’s
LE CANTINE ISOLA and children’s apparel, accessories, design objects, toys,
Don’t let its location in Chinatown fool you, this wine shop memorabilia and more. Best of all, there are four F1 simulators
is where locals in-the-know go to sip and shop for their on site where visitors can experience the thrill of speeding
favourite vintages. A true gem, Le Cantine Isola sells both the around the racetrack for €25 a drive.QD-4, Via Giovanni
well known and hard-to-find Italian wines, as well as sought- Berchet 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 49 49 08 15, www.store.
after varietals from neighbouring France and select regions ferrari.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
around the world. Peruse the packed shelves interspersed
with hand-written poems, proverbs and nursery rhymes, MILAN STORE
and if you don’t see what you’re looking for, just ask. Chances You don’t have to be a milanese to be an A.C. Milan
are owner Luca Sarais will disappear momentarily into the football fan. If red and black are your colours, then a trip
cantina, and then return smiling, dusting off just the bottle to the team’s official store at the recently opened Casa
you seek. Staff here speaks several languages, and the nightly Milan headquarters should definitely top your shopping
aperitivo attracts both locals and foreigners content to share list. The 450 square metre store sells team jerseys, technical
a glass standing elbow-to-elbow in good company.QB-2, clothing, books, balls and other club products. Combine
Via Paolo Sarpi 30, MMoscova, tel. (+39) 02 331 52 49. shopping with a tour of their onsite museum, Mondo
Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. JA6BXS Milan, for an unforgettable experience both kids and adults
will enjoy.QCasa Milan, Via Aldo Rossi 8, MLotto, QT8,
PECK tel. (+39) 02 62 28 56 13, www.casamilan.com. Open
For over a century, the Peck emporium on via Spadari has been 10:00 - 20:00. TA
a pillar of gastronomic excellence. The 3-floor food-hall offers
foodies the chance to sample a huge selection of gourmet SOLO INTER
delights from all over Italy. Founded by a pork butcher, Peck As avid football fans well know, Milan is divided in two
maintains a link to its humble roots with an impressive cold when it comes to their favourite sport: or you’re rossoneri
counter stocking an endless array of prosciutto (ham) and (red and black) or you’re nerazzurri (black and blue).
other salumi. The basement brims with bottles of wines and Fortunately there’s a store for each team in Milan to satisfy
spirits. Other specialities include: a variety of cheeses, oil and both sides. Solo Inter is conveniently located close to
vinegar, truffles and mushrooms, chocolate, as well as range of piazza Duomo and offers three floors stocked with official
pre-confectioned goods like sauce and caviar. Try the first-floor team clothing, personalised shirts, gift ideas and more
restaurant, Al Peck, for a top-quality pasta dish.QC-4, Via Spadari exclusively Inter merchandise.QD-4, Via Giovanni Berchet
9, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 802 31 61, servizioclienti@peck.it, 1, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 80 58 20 44, www.inter.it.
www.peck.it. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Mon 15:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 Open 10:00 - 20:00. TJA
- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. iTJA6KSW

MODELS & TOYS


NANO BLEU
If you’re looking for a gift to bring home to the little ones,
make a beeline straight for Nano Bleu in downtown Milan.
Conveniently located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Nano Bleu
is a milanese institution, selling toys, games and models for
ages 0-99 since 1949. Here you can find special editions of
well-known names including Barbie, Hot Wheels and Lego,
as well as Italian brands such as Quercetti and Trudi and even
artisan toys Made in Italy by companies like Androni, Lelly
and My Doll.QD-4, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, MSan
Babila, tel. (+39) 02 76 02 05 95, www.nanobleu.it. Open
10:00 - 19:30, Sun 10:00 - 13:30, 14:30 - 19:00. TJA Milan Store © Andrea Martiradonna

Autumn 2015 37
Directory
GERMANYQC-2, Via Solferino 40, MMoscova, tel.
BUSINESS CENTRES (+39) 02 623 11 01, info@mailand.diplo.de, www.
REGUS MILANO BRERAQC-2, Piazzale Biancamano mailand.diplo.de. Open 08:30 - 11:30, Tue 08:30 - 11:30,
8, MMoscova, tel. (+39) 02 62 031, www.regus.com. 14:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

REGUS MILANO CARROBBIOQC-5, Via Santa Maria IRELANDQE-4, Piazza San Pietro in Gessate 2, MSan
Valle 3, MMissori, tel. (+39) 02 00 68 11. Babila, tel. (+39) 02 55 18 88 48, antonia.marsaglia@
flashnet.it, www.dfa.ie/embassies/irish-embassies-
REGUS MILANO DUOMO abroad/europe/italy. Open 14:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat,
QC-4, Via Torino 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 72 54 61. Sun, Call 14:30 - 16:30 to schedule an appointment.

REGUS MILANO GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE NEW ZEALANDQB-4, Via Terraggio 17, MCadorna
QC-4, Via Giuseppe Mengoni 4, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 FN, tel. (+39) 02 72 17 00 01, milano@nzte.govt.nz,
30 31 51 00. www.nzembassy.com/italy. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
REGUS MILANO LINATE
QViale Enrico Forlanini 23, tel. (+39) 02 87 32 31 00. RUSSIAQVia Sant’Aquilino 3, MLotto, tel. (+39) 02 40
09 21 13, info@consolatorussomilano.org, www.milan.
REGUS MILANO MACIACHINI mid.ru. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
QVia Benigno Crespi 19, MAC4, 4th floor, MMaciachini,
tel. +(39) 02 00 69 71 00. UNITED KINGDOMQD-4, Via San Paolo 7, MDuomo,
San Babila, tel. (+39) 02 72 30 01, italy.consulate@fco.
REGUS MILANO MILANOFIORI gov.uk, www.gov.uk/government/world/italy. Open
QMilanofiori, Strada 6, Edificio A, Scala 13, Piano 1, 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Assago, MAssago Milanofiori Forum, tel. (+39) 02 30
31 86 00. UNITED STATES OF AMERICAQD-3, Via Principe
Amedeo 2/10, MTurati, tel. (+39) 02 29 03 51,
REGUS MILANO MONTENAPOLEONE uscitizensmilan@state.gov, milan.usconsulate.gov.
QD-3, Via Monte di Pietà 21, MMontenapoleone, tel. Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
(+39) 02 86 33 71.

REGUS MILANO NORTH PARK - EXPO RELOCATION SERVICES


QVia Senigallia 18/2 - Torre A, MComasina, tel. (+39) SIMONETTA BARBARO
02 64 67 21. Simonetta Barbaro provides high quality, personalized
relocation services to ease the transition. She and her
REGUS MILANO STAZIONE CENTRALE team of immigration professionals assist global business
QE-1, Via Roberto Lepetit 8/10, MCentrale, tel. (+39) organizations, private individuals and families moving
02 00 69 63 00. to Italy from around the world, and provide a range of
personal services including assistance with: applications
REGUS MILANO VELASCA for official documents, accommodations, schools for
QD-5, Largo Francesco Richini 6, MMissori, tel. (+39) children, and luxury services.QB-4, Piazzale Luigi
02 58 21 51. Cadorna 9, MCadorna FN, tel. (+39) 02 43 12 51 24/
(+39) 348 63 62 113, info@simonettabarbaro.com,
www.simonettabarbaro.com.
CONSULATES
AUSTRALIAQE-4, Via Borgogna 2, 3rd floor, MSan
Babila, tel. (+39) 02 77 67 41, Australian-Consulate-
General-Milan@austrade.gov.au, www.italy.embassy.
gov.au/rome/home.html. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00
- 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun.

CANADAQD-3, Piazza Cavour 3, 6th floor,


MMontenapoleone, tel. (+39) 02 62 69 42 38, consul.
canada.milan@gmail.com, www.canadainternational. Milan relocation with a personal touch
gc.ca/italy-italie/. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Piazza Cadorna, 9 - 20123 Mobile +39 348 6362113
FRANCEQD-2, Via Cesare Mangili 1 (public entrance), Milano (Mi) - Italy info@simonettabarbaro.it
MTurati, tel. (+39) 02 655 91 41, cogefrmi@tin.it, www. www.simonettabarbaro.it

ambafrance-it.org. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.


38 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
Where to sleep
BEST WESTERN HOTEL CITY
QF-2, Corso Buenos Aires 42/5, MLima, tel. (+39) 02 29
52 33 82, www.hotelcitymilano.it. 60 Total rooms. Pi
JARLGW hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL GALLES


QF-2, Piazza Lima 2, MLima, tel. (+39) 02 20 48 41,
www.galles.it. 202 Total rooms. PiTJHAR
6UFLGBKDXCwW hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL MADISON


QE-1, Via Leopoldo Gasparotto 8, MSondrio, tel. (+39)
02 67 07 41 50, www.madisonhotelmilano.it. 106 Total
rooms. PiHARLGKXW hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL MAJOR


QE-6, Viale Isonzo 2, MLodi TIBB, tel. (+39) 02 55 18 83
35, www.bwhotelmajor-mi.it. 60 Total rooms. PiA
RLGW hhhh

© Best Western Italia S.c.p.a. BEST WESTERN HOTEL MOZART


QA-1, Piazza Gerusalemme 6, MGerusalemme, tel.
BEST WESTERN (+39) 02 33 10 42 15, www.hotel-mozartmilano.it.
Enjoy the comfort and convenience of Best Western hotels 119 Total rooms. PiHARLGXW hhhh
all over Italy. If you’re travelling for business, why not think
about trying Best Western next time you fly? With over 180 BEST WESTERN PLUS HOTEL FELICE CASATI
hotels in all the major Italian cities - like Rome, Florence and QE-2, Via Felice Casati 18, MPorta Venezia, tel. (+39) 02
Venice - our staff will cater to your every need to ensure 29 40 42 08, www.hotelfelicecasati.com. 99 Total rooms.
your stay feels like a home away from home. Planning a PiJHARFLGKW hhhh
holiday? Did you know that you can find our hotels in all
major holiday destinations in Italy! Just choose the hotel BEST WESTERN PLUS HOTEL LE FAVAGLIE
and let us take care of the rest. QVia Raffaele Merendi 26, Cornaredo, tel. (+39) 02 934
Next time you travel, let Best Western make your journey 84 11, www.lefavaglie.it. 112 Total rooms. PiHA
memorable. R6UFLGKCwW hhhh

BEST WESTERN ANTARES HOTEL CONCORDE BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL MONZA E
QViale Monza 132, MTurro, tel. (+39) 02 26 11 20 BRIANZA PALACE
20, www.hotelconcordemilano.com. 120  Total rooms. QViale Brianza 160/166, Cinisello Balsamo, tel. (+39)
PiTHAR6FLGKXW hhhh 02 660 21 11, www.monzaebrianzapalace.it. 105 Total
rooms. PiHAR6UFLGBKDX
BEST WESTERN ATLANTIC HOTEL wW hhhh
QE-1, Via Napo Torriani 24, MCentrale FS, tel. (+39)
02 669 19 41, www.atlantichotelmilano.com. 62  Total
rooms. PJHARFLGW hhhh

BEST WESTERN FALCK VILLAGE HOTEL


QViale Italia 598, Sesto San Giovanni, MSesto FS, tel.
(+39) 02 24 41 67 60, www.falckvillagehotel.it. 81 Total
rooms. PiHARULGBKXW hhhh

BEST WESTERN HL HOTEL


QVia Falzarego 1, Baranzate, tel. (+39) 02 33 30 12 18,
www.hlhotelmilano.com. 65 Total rooms. PiHA
R6ULGKW hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL ASTORIA


QViale Murillo 9, MAmendola Fiera, tel. (+39) 02 40
09 00 95, www.astoriahotelmilano.com. 69 Total rooms.
PiHARLGXW hhhh © Best Western Italia S.c.p.a.

Autumn 2015 39
Where to sleep
THE WESTIN PALACE
CREAM OF THE CROP QE-2, Piazza della Repubblica 20, MRepubblica,
CHÂTEAU MONFORT tel. (+39) 02 63 361, www.westinpalacemilan.com.
QE-3, Corso Concordia 1, tel. (+39) 02 77 67 61, www. 227 rooms (30 suites). PiTJHAR6UF
hotelchateaumonfort.com. 77  rooms (5  suites). Pi LGBKXwW hhhhh
JHARUFLGKDwW hhhhh
TOWNHOUSE 12
DE LA VILLE QA-1, Piazza Gerusalemme 12, MGerusalemme, tel.
QD-4, Via Ulrico Hoepli 6, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 (+39) 02 89 07 85 11, www.12.townhousehotels.com.
879 13 11, www.delavillemilano.com. 108  rooms 15  rooms (2  suites). PiTAR6ULGB
(103 doubles, 1 suite, 4 Junior suites). PiJAR XW hhhhh
UFLGBKDXCW hhhhh
TOWNHOUSE 31
EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA QF-3, Via Carlo Goldoni 31, tel. (+39) 02 70 156,
QE-1, Piazza Duca D’Aosta 9, MCentrale FS, tel. (+39) www.31.townhousehotels.com. 19 Total rooms. Pi
02 67 851, www.excelsiorhotelgallia.com. 238  rooms TJAR6ULGBKXW hhhhh
(53 suites). PiTJHAR6UFLGBK
DXCwW hhhhh TOWNHOUSE 33
QF-3, Via Carlo Goldoni 33, tel. (+39) 02 91 43 76 35,
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MILANO www.33.townhousehotels.com. 15  rooms (5  suites).
QD-3, Via Gesù 6/8, MMontenapoleone, tel. (+39) PiJA6ULGBKXW hhhhh
02 77 088, www.fourseasons.com/it/milan. 118  Total
rooms. PiTJHAR6UFLGKDW TOWNHOUSE DUOMO
hhhhh QD-4, Via Silvio Pellico 2, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 45
39 76 00, www.duomo.townhousehotels.com. 14 Total
MAGNA PARS SUITESQA-6, Via Forcella 6, MPorta rooms. PiTJHARULGBKXwW
Genova FS, tel. (+39) 02 833 83 71, www.magnapars- hhhhh
suitesmilano.it. 28  rooms (28  suites). PiJAR
UFLGBKDXwW hhhhh TOWNHOUSE GALLERIA
QD-4, Via Silvio Pellico 8, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 36 59 46
PALAZZO PARIGI HOTEL & GRAND SPA 90, www.galleria.townhousehotels.com. 27 Total rooms.
QD-3, Corso di Porta Nuova 1, MTurati, tel. (+39) 02 PiJAR6ULGKwW hhhhh
62 56 25, www.palazzoparigi.com. 98 rooms (33 suites).
PiJHAR6ULGBKXW hhhhh
UPMARKET
PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA ANTARES HOTEL ACCADEMIA
QD-2, Piazza della Repubblica 17, MRepubblica, tel. QViale Certosa 68, tel. (+39) 02 39 21 11 22, www.
(+39) 02 62 301, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/ hotelaccademiamilano.com. 66  rooms (1  suite, 2  Junior
milan/hotel-principe-di-savoia. 301  rooms (44  suites). suite). PZiTHARUFLGKW hhhh
PiTJHAR6UFLGBKDXC
wW hhhhh ANTARES HOTEL RUBENS
QVia Pietro Paolo Rubens 21, MGambara, tel. (+39) 02
SEVEN STARS GALLERIA 40 302, www.hotelrubensmilano.com. PZiTH
QD-4, Via Silvio Pellico 8, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 89 05 ARUFLGKW
82 97, www.sevenstarsgalleria.com. 13 rooms (3 Deluxe
Junior suites, 3 Executive suites, 1 Toscanini suite, 1 Verdi
suite, 3 Ambassador wing, 2 Penthouse Galleria). Pi
TJAR6ULGKW hhhhhhh

STYLE HOTEL
QC-3, Via delle Erbe, MLanza, tel. (+39) 02 49 53
70 00, www.stylehotel.eu. 13  rooms (4  Junior suites,
1 Executive suite, 1 Luxury suite). PiTJHAR
UFLGKwW hhhhhhh

THE GRAY
QD-4, Via San Raffaele 6, MDuomo, tel. (+39) 02 720
89 51, www.hotelthegray.com. 21 Total rooms. Pi
JARUFLGBKXwW hhhhh © Crowne Plaza Milan City

Autumn 2015 41
Where to sleep
BRISTOL NU HOTEL
QE-1, Via Domenico Scarlatti 32, MCentrale FS, tel. QVia Feltre 19/B, MUdine, tel. (+39) 02 971 54 51,
(+39) 02 669 41 41, www.hotelbristolmil.it. 68  Total www.nu-hotel.com. 38 Total rooms. PiHARU
rooms. PiJHAR6ULGW hhhh LGKwW hhhh

CROWNE PLAZA MILAN CITY RADISSON BLU HOTEL MILAN


Conveniently located just 600 metres from Milano QVia Villapizzone 24, tel. (+39) 02 363 18 88, www.
Centrale Railway Station, Crowne Plaza Milan City is a radissonblu.com/hotel-milan. 250  rooms (35  suites).
modern hotel offering guests a comfortable spot to rest PiHARUFLKDCwW hhhh
their head during their stay. The decor here is sleek and
contemporary, with soundproofed spacious rooms and REGINA
free Wi-Fi. In Metropolitan Restaurant guests can sample a QC-5, Via Cesare Correnti 13, tel. (+39) 02 58 10 69 13,
delicious range of Italian and International cuisine at both www.hotelregina.it. 43 Total rooms. PiJHAR
lunchtime and dinner. Fitness fanatics can stay in shape ULGW hhhh
in the hotels well-equipped gym while those in need of
some pampering can relax in the sauna or indulge in some SHERATON DIANA MAJESTIC
beauty treatments. With Sondrio metro station just outside QE-3, Viale Piave 42, MPorta Venezia, tel. (+39) 02
the lobby door, Milan city centre and the spectacular 20 581, www.sheratondianamajestic.com. 106  rooms
Duomo are just a short trip away.QVia Melchiorre (11 suites). PiTJHAR6UFLGBK
Gioia 73, MSondrio, tel. (+39) 02 66 71 77 15, www. XW hhhh
crowneplazamilan.com. 109 rooms (7 suites). PiH
AR6UFLGKDXW SHERATON MILAN MALPENSA AIRPORT HOTEL
& CONFERENCE CENTRE
DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI QMalpensa Airport (T1), tel. (+39) 02 23 351, www.
QViale Sarca 336, MBignami, tel. (+39) 02 84 26 68 00, sheratonmilanmalpensa.com. 433  rooms (19  suites).
www.hotelarcimboldi.it. 216 Total rooms. PiHA PiTHAR6UFLGKDXwW
R6ULGBKXW hhhh hhhh

DEI CAVALIERI UPTOWN PALACE


QC-5, Piazza Giuseppe Missori 1, MMissori, tel. (+39) QD-5, Via Santa Sofia 10, MCrocetta, tel. (+39) 02 30 51
02 88 571, www.hoteldeicavalieri.com. 167  rooms 31, www.uptownpalace.com. 165 Total rooms. PiJ
(2 suites). PJHARULGKW hhhh HARUGKW hhhh

ENTERPRISE HOTEL WORLDHOTEL CRISTOFORO COLOMBO


QCorso Sempione 91, tel. (+39) 02 31 81 81, www. QE-2, Corso Buenos Aires 3, MPorta Venezia, tel. (+39)
enterprisehotel.com. 126 rooms (2 suites, 4 Junior suites). 02 29 40 62 14, www.worldhotelcristoforocolombo.
PiHARUFLGKDwW hhhh com. 116 Total rooms. PiJHARULGK
DwW hhhh
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON MILAN CENTER
QD-1, Via Gerolamo Cardano 1, MGioia, tel. (+39) 02
66 74 61, www.fourpointsmilan.com. 254 Total rooms. APARTMENTS
PiTJHARUFLGKW hhhh RESIDENZA DELLE CITTÀQF-1, Via Mauro Macchi 79,
MCaiazzo, tel. (+39) 02 66 70 01, www.residenzadellecitta.
GRAND VISCONTI PALACE it. 31 studios. PJAUFLGW
QE-6, Viale Isonzo 14, MLodi TIBB, tel. (+39) 02
54 03 41, www.grandviscontipalace.com. 172  Total TH STREET MILANO DUOMO
rooms. PiHARUFLGBKDCwW QD-4, Via Santa Radegonda 14, MDuomo, tel. (+39)
hhhh 02 36 59 46 90, www.duomo.townhousestreet.com.
7 studios. PiTJA6ULGKW
HILTON MILAN
QE-1, Via Luigi Galvani 12, MCentrale FS, tel. (+39) TH STREET MILANO GOLDONI
02 69 831, www.placeshilton.com/milan. 319  Total QF-3, Via Carlo Goldoni 33, tel. (+39) 02 91 43 76 35,
rooms. PiTJHAR6UFLGKXW www.goldoni.townhousestreet.com. 4 studios. PT
hhhh JA6UGW

MILAN SUITE HOTEL


QVia Varesina 124, tel. (+39) 02 33 43 16 18, www. vine.co/inyourpocket
milansuitehotel.com. 40 rooms (40 suites). PiTH
AR6LGW hhhh
42 Milan In Your Pocket milan.inyourpocket.com
A B C
City centre
map
1

2
LOTTO Fieramilano/RHO Fieramilano

3
per Stadio Meazza
Linea

A
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milan.inyourpocket.com
© TOURING EDITORE S.r.l. - MILANO - 2014 - PRINTED IN ITALY Tou
D E F

4
Linea
per Aeroporto Linate

F
D E
uring Club Italiano è un marchio registrato del Touring Club Italiano (corso Italia 10, Milano, www.touringclub.it), e concesso in licenza da Touring Servizi S.r.l. a Touring Editore S.r.l.
What to expect at Expo
Welcome to the biggest event ever Countries Clusters Civil Society Companies Thematic Areas Events Areas
organized on food and nutrition. The
theme Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life
is addressed by all the participating
countries, International Organizations
and by Civil Societies and Companies,
in the Thematic Areas or those dedicated
to the Events. Pavilions and The Italian Pavilion Different countries Organizations and The pavilions and Pavilions and Common areas that
exhibition spaces is in the Cardo and share a particular associations stands of private narrative paths on host events, shows
The concept follows five thematic routes: of the participating includes Palazzo genius loci or food reflect on the companies the Expo theme and cultural
The history of humankind, the history of
countries of Expo Italia and the chain future of food and with exhibitions initiatives
food; Feast and famine: a contemporary
paradox; The future of food; Sustainable spaces of the nutrition and insights
food = an equitable world; Taste is various regions
knowledge. For details, consult the
information screens or the official app.

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Official Map Rice 37 H10 Fruits and Legumes 61 G15 Islands, Sea and Food 108 D22
A
Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Benin, Gambia, Guinea, Equatorial Caricom (Barbados, Belize, Dominica,
Lao People's Democratic Republic, Guinea, Kyrgyzstan, Democratic Grenada, Guyana, St. Vincent and
Sierra Leone; Basmati Pavilion Republic of Congo, Sri Lanka, Grenadine, Saint Lucia, Suriname),
Welcome to Milan Uzbekistan, Zambia Comoros, Guinea Bissau,
Madagascar, Maldives, North Korea
Welcome to the Universal Expo Cocoa and Chocolate 45 H12 Spices 64 G16
The Unite
Cereals and Tubers 120 H22 in many a
Cameroon, Côte d’Ivoire, Cuba, Afghanistan, Brunei Darussalam,
B with 18 ins
Gabon, Ghana, Sao Tomé & Principe United Republic of Tanzania, Bolivia, Congo, Haiti, Mozambique, the “Zero
1st May - 31st October 2015 Vanuatu - Pacific Islands Forum
(Marshall Islands, Solomon Islands,
Togo, Venezuela, Zimbabwe Itinerary t
Coffee 58 H14
Feeding the Planet - Energy for Life Kiribati, Nauru, Niue, Papua New
Guinea, Samoa, Tonga, Tuvalu) Arid Zones 121 D23
Burundi, El Salvador, Ethiopia,
Guatemala, Kenya, Dominican Bio-Mediterraneum 97 D21 Djibuti, Eritrea, Jordan, Liberia,
Republic, Rwanda, East Timor, Mali, Mauritania, Palestine, Senegal,
C Uganda, Yemen Somalia
Albania, Algeria, Egypt, Greece,
Lebanon, Malta, Montenegro,
San Marino, Serbia, Tunisia;
World Expo Museum
5511
Opening Hours Children
ildr
Park
Mon-Sun 10-23
Evening entrance 19-23 D
For further information
en

www.expo2015.org
Infoline: 020 2015

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West Entrance At the Info Point (H17)
tickets can be purchased
for shows at the Open Air
15 23 Theatre.
16
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West Entrance

K F10

Rho-Fiera Expo 2015 Trains


Suburban Line
High Speed
L

Metro Station
M1 Rho-Fiera Metro
from Cadorna

M Parking
Fieramilano

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

A feast of cultures, populations, tastes


Throughout the Expo site, visitors
can taste the different specialities.
You can have a drink, try for the
first time a dish never heard of, eat
standing or sitting comfortably,
whether it is the dish of a World Cuisine The cuisine of Italy and its regions Chef Experience Breaks for families Light and healthy
renowned chef or a skewer: you
will enjoy a real world tour In addition to the offer of the La Piada & Le Bolle 15 J 7 Agripizza - Agrigelato North East Cardo Ecco Pizza e Pasta North West Cardo Davide Oldani 16 J 7 Cascina Triulza 38 F 11 Acqua S. Pellegrino South East Cardo
between Cardo and Decumano. pavilions of participating countries, Los Granos de mi Tierra 141 I 24 Alto Adigee North West Cardo Granarolo South East Cardo Identità Expo 44 G 12 Chioschi Ristoro Coop 93 I 19 Cucina e Pizza Biologica 109 D 22
where you can enjoy their traditional 54 G 14 Ape Pizza 22 H 8 Kip - International School 8H 7 Peck a Palazzo Italia Palazzo Italia Let’s Toast Areas F2, G1, H1, H2 * Gluten Free Fest 25 G 9
specialities, the following are also Street Burger 54 G 14 Aromatica 75 H 17 Popi 17 F 8 Slow Food 152 H 26 McDonald’s 146 H 25 140 I 24
available: USA - Food Truck Nation 122 E 23 Casa Ferrarini 77 D 18 Regione Sicilia 97 D 21 Unico Milano The Rolling Star Tracce Areas A, G1, G2, H1 * Juice Bar 23 J 8
Zen Express 17 G 14 Coldiretti South East Cardo Varvello Experience 120 H 22 52 F 14 Via Vai Areas B2, F2, G1, H2 * 148 I 25
BBQ Hooligans 141 I 24 54 G 14 Dispensa Emilia 35 E 10 Wine Pavilion North East Cardo Toast & Zuppe 52 F 14
* For the list of Service Areas see back China Seeds Kitchen 113 E 22 Eataly 62 H 15 Zini Gourmet 52 F 14

Participants, Areas and Services


0 Pavilion Zero J 7 10 Caritas Internationalis H 7 20 Nepal H 8 30 Belgian Food & Events H 9 40 Perugina G 11 50 Uruguay G 13 60 Argentina G 15 70 Piazza Azerbaijan H 16
1 Expo Centre H 5 11 Ven. Fabbr. del Duomo H 7 21 Sudan H 8 31 Belgium H 9 41 Lithuania G 11 51 Children Park C 14 61 Cluster Fruits and LegumesG 15 71 Conference Centre I 16
2 Branch Intesa Sanpaolo G 6 12 Ireland H 7 22 Steet Food 3 see backk H 8 32 Service Area B2 H 9 42 Bielorussia G 12 52 Street Food 5 vd. retro F 14 62 Eataly H 15 72 Street Food 7 see backk J 16
3 Service Area A H 6 13 Street Food 1 see backk H 7 23 Juice Bar J 8 33 Vietnam H 9 43 Malaysia G 12 53 Swatch G 14 63 Grom F 16 73 Intesa Sanpaolo G 17
4 OVS G 7 14 Piazza Irlanda I 7 24 Maria Marinoni E 9 34 Piazza Belgium H 9 44 Service Area C1 G 12 54 Street Food 6 vd. retro G 14 64 Cluster Spices G 16 74 Kinder + Sport H 17
5 Excelsior Milano G 7 15 La Piada & le Bolle J 7 25 Street Food 4 see backk G 9 35 Dispensa Emilia E 10 45 Cluster Cocoa and Choc. H 12 55 Corriere della Sera G 14 65 Azerbaijan H 16 75 Service Area F2 H 17
6 Casa Algida G 7 16 Davide Oldani J 7 26 Brazil G 9 36 Technogym G 10 46 Lindt H 12 56 People’s Rep. of China G 14 66 Emirati Arabi Uniti H 16 76 Illy I 17
7 Czech Republic G 7 17 Street Food 2 see backk F 8 27 Save the Children G 9 37 Cluster Rice H 10 47 Distretti Cioccolato H 12 57 Colombia G 14 67 Franciacorta H 16 77 Casa Ferrarini D 18
8 Kip - International School H 7 18 Bahrain G 8 28 Enel G 9 38 Cascina Triulza F 11 48 Piazza Beretta G 13 58 Cluster Coffee H 14 68 Kazakhstan H 16 78 Events Area Italian Pav. E 18
9 UN Garden H 7 19 Angola G 8 29 South Korea G 9 39 Moldova G 11 49 Thailand G 13 59 Caffarel F 15 69 Piazza Events Expo 1 H 16 79 Piazza France G 18
Legenda
Getting around Expo 2015

Restaurants Kiosks Street Food Services Commercial Food Service Trasportation Installations Colours
In this map you will find all the Pavilions, Clusters,
Smoking Area Info for guest Parapharmacy Bank Bars & Cafés Metro Thematic Areas and Events Areas, in addition to all
with disabilities Artistic The information Service Areas
distributed at the services offered to visitors of Expo 2015. You can consult
Picnic Area Pedestrian Entr. Fire Department Expobookstore Kiosks Shuttle Bus Sponsor Expo site follows a Thematic Areas the same map along the entire Expo site, on totems and
Official colour code, which information screens, or by downloading the app.
ATM Meeting Point First Aid Street Food People Mover United Nations can be found on Companies
Merchandising (UN)
Ticket Office Carriages Rental Water Points Guided Tours Fast Food Parking panels and screens.
At the site, you Stop at one of the As in the most Toilets, bars and Clusters
will find dozens of many kiosks traditional Italian restaurants, for
Changing Table Tablet Rental Toilets Restaurants Coach Events
restaurants and throughout the markets, for a quick example, are in the
TAXI
self-services, for site where you can outdoor snack Police Dept. Strollers Rental Each toilet Self-Services Taxi yellow areas. Countries
every palate, for a taste quality is accessible to
direct experience products and Information Lost & Found everyone Train Civil Society
of the theme refined dishes

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

from A
A8 –
Mila
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Parki
ed Nations is present Arese ng For further details
reas of the Expo site F5 of the Cardo and the
stallations that bring Sh Italian Pavilion, B
Hunger Challenge” Busuttle turn the map.
to life.

20 m
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63 129 130
SWITZERLLAND
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143
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102 SWITZERLA
NETHERLAN

100 114
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79
116 GERMANY
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STTONIA
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AT 66

taa 67
AN 68

GDOM 844

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SPAIN 86

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05

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A square represents
about 1-2 min on foot
(75 m)
L
The Decumano is 1,500 metres long
and is crossed by 32 avenues
Coach Parking
Expo Village Gran Turismo Merlata
TAXI Shuttle Bus
Parking
Trenno M

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Dedicated to families

Sweet temptations Salted snack temptations Coffee Break Aperitif time For the little ones Useful Information

Baci Perugina Dessert 59 G11 Magnum Store 100 G 21 Ape Fritto & Frutta 52 F 14 > FrieNfuie 52 F 14 Chicco Tosto 32 H 9 Birrificio Angelo Poretti Arts & Foods ref Triennale Baby Area 0-4 38 F 11
Caffarel 1826: cioccolato e gelato Miss Mama 72 J 16 Citterio North West Cardo 54 G 14 75 H 17 South East Cardo Cascina Triulza 38 F 11 Stroller Rental J 4
59 F 15 Pernigotti: il gelato 45 H 12 Eat’s 4G 7 140 I 24 125 H 23 Bottega Birra Moretti 136 H 24 Children Park 51 C 14 Emergency Telephone Number: 112
Casa Algida 6G 7 Sweeting 72 J 16 FrieNfuie 13 H 7 Maria Marinoni 24 E 9 west entrance J 4 Franciacorta 67 H 16 Coop 93 I 19 Informations: 020 2015
Gelateria Rigoletto South East Cardo 17 F 8 Piazza Beretta 1812 48 H 12 Illy 58 H 14 Martini & Rossi South East Cardo Italian Pavilion 91 G 19
Grom 13 H 7 22 H 8 Sharky 140 I 24 76 I 17 Vip Lounge 101 G 21 Kinder + Sport 74 H 17 Changing table
63 F 16 25 G 9 Lavazza South West Cardo Pavilion Zero 14 J 7 available in toilets
140 I 24 Save the Children 27 G 9 in all Service Areas.

80 Poland G 18 90 Israel G 19 100 Piazza Algida H 21 110 Coca-Cola E 22 120 Clust. Cereals and Tubers H 22 130 Cruciani F 24 140 Street Food 9 see backk I 24 150 Indonesia H 26
81 Netherlands G 18 91 Italy G 19 101 Service Area G1 G 21 111 Alitalia Etihad E 22 121 Cluster Arid Zones D 23 131 Turkey G 24 141 Street Food 10 see backk I 24 151 Mediterranean Hill G 26
82 Holy See G 18 92 Mexico H 19 102 Switzerland G 21 112 Expo Partner 1 E 22 122 Usa Food Truck Nation E 23 132 Monaco G 24 142 World Ass. of Agronomist E 25 152 Biodiversity Square
83 France G 18 93 Future Food Dist. Coop I 19 103 Don Bosco Network G 21 113 China Corporate Un. Pav. E 22 123 Usa G 23 133 Japan G 24 143 Piazza Events Expo 3 F 25 Slow Food H 26
84 United Kingdom H 18 94 Lake Arena D 20 104 Service Area G2 H 21 114 Piazza Expo G 22 124 Service Area H1 G 23 134 Slovakia G 24 144 Russia G 25
85 Hungary H 18 95 European Union E 20 105 Slovenia H 21 115 Ecuador G 22 125 Service Area H2 H 23 135 Morocco H 24 145 Estonia G 25
86 Spain H 18 96 Street Food C 21 106 Austria H 21 116 Germany G 22 126 Alessandro Rosso - JoomooE 24 136 Birra Moretti H 24 146 McDonald’s H 25
87 Romania H 18 97 Clust. Bio-Mediterraneum D 21 107 Open Air Theatre J 21 117 Kuwait G 22 127 Expo Partner 2 E 24 137 Qatar H 24 147 Turkmenistan H 25
88 Piazza Coca-Cola H 18 98 Vanke E 21 108 Cl. Islands, Sea and Food D 22 118 Chile H 22 128 Federalimentare E 24 138 Piazza Qatar H 24 148 Juice Bar I 25
89 Auditorium I 18 99 New Holland Agriculture E 21 109 Biodiversity Park B.Fiere D 22 119 Iran H 22 129 Piazza Events Expo 2 F 24 139 Piazza MSC H 24 149 Oman G 26
Index
10 Corso Como 36 Enoteca Cotti 37 Nottingham Forest Cocktail Bar 26
11 Clubroom 25 Enterprise Hotel 42 NU Hotel 42
Alcatraz 25 Erba Brusca 22 Nun 23
Antares Hotel Accademia 41 Excelsior Hotel Gallia 41 Palazzo Parigi Hotel & Grand Spa 41
Antares Hotel Rubens 41 Excelsior Milano 36 Palazzo Reale 33
Armani Privé 25 Ferrari Store 37 Panino Giusto 22
Armani/Silos 30 Fondazione Prada 31 Pantura 23
Atomic Bar 26 Four Points by Sheraton Milan Parco Sempione 34
Au Vieux Strasbourg 26 Center 42 Peck 37
Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore 27 Four Seasons Hotel Milano 41 Piazza del Duomo 30
Basilica di Sant'Ambrogio 27 Galleria d'Arte Moderna GAM 31 Piazza Gae Aulenti 30
Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio 27 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 29 Piccola Ischia 22
B Cafe 24 Gallerie d'Italia - Piazza Scala 31 Pinacoteca di Brera 33
Best Western Antares Hotel Gelateria della Musica 24 Planetario di Milano Ulrico Hoepli 33
Concorde 39 Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli 34 Plastic 26
Best Western Atlantic Hotel 39 Giulio Pane e Ojo 22 Princi 23
Best Western Falck Village Hotel 39 Grand Visconti Palace 42 Principe di Savoia 41
Best Western HL Hotel 39 Grattacielo Pirelli 29 Radisson Blu Hotel Milan 42
Best Western Hotel Astoria 39 HangarBicocca 31 Regina 42
Best Western Hotel City 39 Highline Galleria 29 Residenza delle Città 42
Best Western Hotel Galles 39 HighTech 36 San Siro Stadium and Museum 34
Best Western Hotel Madison 39 Hilton Milan 42 Santa Maria delle Grazie 28
Best Western Hotel Major 39 Hollywood 25 Santa Maria presso San Satiro 28
Best Western Hotel Mozart 39 Il Salvagente 36 Serendeepity 36
Best Western Plus Hotel Felice Casati Kartell 36 Seven Stars Galleria 41
39 La Rinascente 36 Sheraton Diana Majestic 42
Best Western Plus Hotel Le Favaglie Le Cantine Isola 37 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport
39 Loolapaloosa 25 Hotel & Conference Centre 42
Best Western Premier Hotel Monza e Magazzini Generali 25 Shiva 21
Brianza Palace 39 Magna Pars Suites 41 Solatium 22
Biblioteca Ambrosiana 28 Metropolitan 22 Solo Inter 37
Bristol 42 Milan Store 37 Style Hotel 41
Ca' Granda 28 Milan Suite Hotel 42 Teatro alla Scala 30
Carlo e Camilla in Segheria 21 Morna 24 The Gray 41
Casa Museo Boschi-Di Stefano 30 MUBA Museo dei Bambini Milano 31 The Kitchen Society 21
Castello Sforzesco & Civici Musei 28 MUDEC Museo delle Culture 31 The Westin Palace 41
Cenacolo Vinciano 29 Murphy's Law 26 TH Street Milano Duomo 42
C'era una volta una piada 22 Museo Bagatti Valsecchi 32 TH Street Milano Goldoni 42
Chà Tea Atelier 24 Museo Civico di Storia Naturale di Tocqueville 13 25
Château Monfort 41 Milano 32 Torre Branca 30
Cioccolatitaliani 24 Museo della Pietà Rondanini 32 TownHouse 12 41
Coin 35 Museo del Novecento 32 TownHouse 31 41
Cova 24 Museo del Risorgimento 32 TownHouse 33 41
Crowne Plaza Milan City 42 Museo di Milano e Storia TownHouse Duomo 41
Degli Arcimboldi 42 Contemporanea 32 TownHouse Galleria 41
Dei Cavalieri 42 Museo Mondo Milan 32 Triennale Design Museum 34
De la Ville 41 Museo Nazionale della Scienza e Upcycle 24
Delicatessen 24 della Tecnologia Leonardo Da Vinci Uptown Palace 42
Divina Disco 25 33 Worldhotel Cristoforo Colombo 42
Dongiò 22 Museo Poldi Pezzoli 33
Duomo 27 Nano Bleu 37

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