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|| Pigments || Color Charts || Making Paints/Pigments || Artist Recipes || Free Art eBooks || Artist's Books ||
Making Paint
Making Pigments
Links
Experiments
Links
Recipes
It's hard to believe all the art information available on the internet. I have searched and
found hundreds of free and public domain art books & ebooks and put them on my free art
books page to save you the time of hunting them down yourself. Some of these are the
Beaker And
Flask
Discount
Superstore Prices
on Lab Glass,
Beakers, and
Flasks!
Medical-And-Lab-Supplies.com/Lab-Glass
original books with the recipes and secrets of the old masters themselves. There are many books on
making pigments, lakes, and mineral pigments including pigment chemistry and historical pigment
production techniques.
Check Out my new totally free art book reference resource page with lots of free
information on arts of all kinds and it's all FREE! Yippy!
www.Tide.com/BoostFree
Chemglass Life
Sciences
Natural Pigments has a Step by Step guide to grinding water color paints. they also have hard to find
historical and earth pigments for sale, as well as additives and paint making tools.
Free Watercolor
E-Book
Paint Making And Color Grinding by Charles L. Uebele. pub.1913 now in the public domain.
Learn to Paint
Beautiful
Watercolor
Regardless of Your
Experience Level
Experiments : ^Top
www.WaterColourSecrets.com
Free Painting
Tutorial
Professional Artists
show you
Watercolor Tips &
Techniques!
DanielSmith.com
Download
Google Chrome
A free browser
that lets you do
more of what you
like on the web
J C Sparks' pigment info pages have historical and pigment making information.
www.google.com/chrome
K12 Online
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Charter School?
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www.K12.com
Water Soluble
Dye
Aniline Dyes &
Other Quality
Wood Colorants at
Woodworker's
Supply
Woodworker.com
www.K12.com
Floor Marking
Tape
Long Lasting Floor
Marking Tape
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Sample or Shop
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www.Stop-Painting.com
Other than the above criteria I would say anything goes. Light fastness and other working
quality's can only be attained after the paint has been made in the binder of choice and
tested, then the pigment can be accepted or rejected according to ones own criteria.
Making Natural Earths and other found substances into pigments:
The first step to making a pigment would be to pulverize and powder the substance. You
may need to start with a hammer to brake it up and then grind it down finer with a mortar
and pestle. Forcing it through a variety of sieves or screens may help separate finer
particles for further grinding.
The pigment can then be washed by mixing with water and allowing the pigment to settle
for an hour or so. Carefully pour off the water and repeat until the water is clear.
www.InspirationofPainting.com
* Plastic
Beakers *
Mix, measure &
prepare solutions in
our heavy-duty
graduated beakers
www.globescientific.com
The next step is to levigate the pigment. This is similar to the previous step of washing
except you'll only leave the pigment settle for a few minutes.
Mix the pigment with water as when washing, but this time only allow it to rest a minute or
two so that the heavy sand and larger grains settle to the bottom, but the finer particles
are still in suspension. Carefully drain off the water into another container so as to get as
little as possible of the sandy bottom particles. Now allow the water to settle a day or so
until the water clears. Drain off the water and allow the rest to dry. ABuchner funnel will
quicken the process up considerably. Then re-grind the pigment in a mortar and pestle
and screen through a very fine screen such as a permanent coffee filter.
If the resulting pigment is still to course for your needs, it can be re-ground and levigated
as many times as needed.
Michael Price is some more information on levigation techniques & equipment here. (off
site)
Chrome Yellow
Glassware needed: 1) 100 mL beaker, 2) small (10 mL) graduated cylinder, 3) buchner
funnel, 4) filter flask
Measure 5mL potassium chromate solution using the graduated cylinder and transfer
(pour) the solution to the beaker. Rinse the cylinder well with distilled water, then
measure 5 mL of zinc chloride solution. Add the zinc chloride to the beaker. Stir with a
glass rod. Using a disposable pipette, add 10 drops of sodium hydroxide. Note carefully
all changes you observe. Isolate the chrome yellow pigment using a Buchner funnel,
filter paper and filter flask. Rinse the pigment with water and allow to dry on the filter
paper.
Prussian Blue
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Verdigris
Obtain a small and large set of petri dishes. Place the top of the small petri dish inside
the bottom of the large petri dish (see example in lab). Using a disposable pipette, place
about one pipette (~ 1 mL) of glacial acetic acid into the bottom of the large petri dish,
carefully avoiding dropping any acid into the small petri dish. Using the metal snips, cut a
piece of copper sheet that is about 30 x 50 mm (1" x 1.5"). Clean the copper using the
metal polish provided. Wipe the residue carefully and polish until the metal is a rosy
copper color. Carefully place the piece of copper metal on the small petri dish. Place the
large top cover on the petri dish and wrap a piece of parafilm around the side.
Notes:The basic principle here is to expose the copper to the acetic acid fumes in a
closed container, without allowing the copper to be in direct contact with the acid. Any
number of apparatus that accomplishes that goal should work. Small glass jars or cups
and a mason jar would be an easy substitute for the petri dishes in the recipe above.
Verdigris (harvesting)
Remove your verdigris-coated copper plate or pipe from the petri dish or jar and place it
on the inverted petri dish top. Allow the verdigris to "dry"; it will become paler and powdery
in appearance. Scrape the verdigris off onto a piece of glassine (or weighing) paper.
Store the verdigris in a vial and label it.
Viridian
Glassware needed: 1) mortar and pestle, 2) small crucible, 3) triangular wire support . 4)
150 mL beaker, 5) buchner funnel, 6) filter flask
Obtain a mortar and pestle. Place into the mortar 3 g of sodium dichromate and 0.45 g of
sulfur. (Weigh out the needed amount of each solid on a plastic "weighing boat".) Grind
the two solids together until they are a fine powder. Transfer this powder to a small
porcelain crucible using "glassine" or weighing paper. Set the crucible on a triangular
wire support. Heat the crucible in a flame from a bunsen burner until no further gas or
smoke is produced. Allow the crucible to cool. When you can safely handle the crucible
with your hands, scrape out the solid product and put it back into a **CLEAN** mortar
and pestle. Grind it again then transfer it to a medium sized beaker (150 mL) being sure
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to remove all the powder by washing (rinsing) the mortar with water. Fill the beaker with
water approximately halfway and stir vigorously. This process is dissolving ( "extracting")
into the water any undissolved reagents (what, if any, color(s) do you observe?). The
green chromium pigment will be left undissolved in the beaker. ABuchner funnel, filter
paper and filter flask are used to isolate the pigment. Rinse the pigment with acetone to
help remove water and speed drying.
Making artist paints and making pigments for the artistic creation of artists
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