Ocean Environment (I)

2012 INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY PETRONAS SDN BHD

All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any

means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the permission of the copyright owner.

Lecture Outline
Linear Airy wave Theory
Design wave Environment
Wave Statistics
Wave Forces on Small Structures
Wave Forces on Large Structures

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Linear Airy Wave Theory

Definition Sketch for a progressive wave train

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Linear Airy Wave Theory

k=wave number = 2/L where L is the wave

length
= wave frequency = 2/T where T is the
wave period
Wave surface elevation is given by
=

where

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Linear Airy Wave Theory

The linear dispersion relationship is given by
=

The velocity potential is given by

=

Wave Celerity C=L/T is given by

=
which is another form of
dispersion relationship.
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Linear Airy Wave Theory

The

wave

where =

length

is

obtained

as

The water-particle velocities in the x and y

directions are obtained from the expressions

=
and v=

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Linear Airy Wave Theory

The

horizontal water-particle

=

velocity

The

velocity

vertical
water-particle

=

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Linear Airy Wave Theory

The water particle accelerations in x and y
directions are given by
Horizontal:

=

Vertical:

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Linear Airy Wave Theory

The horizontal and vertical displacements
are given by

=


and

=


The dynamic pressure p is given by

=


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PMO Metocean Data

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10

Linear Airy Wave Theory

Velocity Distribution
70

60

50

s (m)

40
u
30

20

10

-2.5000

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-2.0000

-1.5000

-1.0000

0
-0.5000
0.0000
0.5000
Particle Velocity (m/s)

1.0000

1.5000

2.0000

11

Linear Airy Wave Theory

Acceleration Distribution
70

60

50

s (m)

40
u dot
30

v dot

20

10

-2.0000

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-1.5000

-1.0000

0
-0.5000
0.0000
Particle Acceleration (m/s)

0.5000

1.0000

1.5000

12

Linear Airy Wave Theory

Displacement Distribution
70

60

50

s (m)

40

30

20

10

-4.0000

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-3.5000

-3.0000

-2.5000
-2.0000
-1.5000
Particle Displacement (m)

-1.0000

-0.5000

0
0.0000

13

Linear Airy Wave Theory

Pressure
70
60
50

s (m)

40
30

20

10
0
-40000

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-35000

-30000

-25000

-20000
-15000
Pressure (N/m)

-10000

-5000

14

Design Wave Environment

For a single sinsoidal wave of frequency, ,
the wave profile may be given as

= ( )

Choosing
the
origin
at
x =
0,
= where =H/2

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Representation of various types of wave profiles

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Design Wave Environment

The random sea state on a short term is best

represented by its energy density spectrum.
The total energy of a wave, E(per unit surface area) in
the wave record between infinite time limits is given by
the
integral
=

[()]

The total energy is obtained from the area covered by

the energy density curve as a function of frequency.
Mean energy per unit area
=

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()

S(w) has the unit of length2-time

17

Design Wave Environment

There are two commonly used methods of

calculating the energy spectrum of an

ocean wave record:
1. Autocorrelation Method
2. Fast Fourier Method

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18

Design Wave Environment

Wave Spectrum
70
60
50

S(f) (m/s)

40
30
20

10
0

0
-10

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0.05

0.1

0.15

0.2

0.25

0.3

0.35

0.4

0.45

f (1/s)

19

Design Wave Environment

Mathematical Spectrum Models
COMMONLY USED WAVE SPECTRA
Note: Hs, Tp and Tz are available in PTS.

1. Pierson Moskovitz Spectrum (PM)

() =

(2)4 5

1.25

0 4

where = 0.0081 and 0 =

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20

Design Wave Environment

2. Bretschneider Spectrum

() =

4
2
0.1687 5

0.675

where =

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1.057

21

Design Wave Environment

3. ISSC Spectrum

() =

4
2
0.1107 5

0.4427

where = 1.2960 =

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1.296

22

Design Wave Environment

4. ITTC Spectrum

() =

4
5
(2)

42

(2)4 4 2

where =

0.0081
4

, =

9.80665 and =

2
Tz

3.54

, =

,=

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23

Design Wave Environment

5. JONSWAP Spectrum
=

(2)4 5

where
= 3.30
a = 0.07
b = 0.09
= 0.0081
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1.25

0 4

0 2
22 2
0

0
> 0

24

Design Wave Environment

6. JONSWAP (Goda) Spectrum
() =

0
2 5

where
= 3.30
a = 0.07
b = 0.09

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1.25

0 4

0 2
22 2
0

0
> 0

0.0624
0.230+0.03360.185 1.9+ 1
25

Design Wave Environment

Comparison of Various Wave Spectra for PMO Operating
Condition
90
80
70

S(f) , m2

60
ITTC Spectrum

50

JONSWAP Spectrum

40

P-M spectrum
30
JONSWAP-GODA
20
Bretschneider Spectrum
10
ISSC Spectrum
0
0.0000

0.1000

0.2000

0.3000

0.4000

0.5000

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Design Wave Environment

Simulation of Wave Profile from Spectra
The wave height frequency is obtained as
follows
1 = 2 2 1
and the corresponding wave period is given by
= 1 1
(H, T) is the wave height- period pair.
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Design Wave Environment

Phase in sinusoidal functions or in waves has two different, but closely related,

meanings. One is the initial angle of a sinusoidal function at its origin and is
sometimes called phase offset or phase difference. Another usage is the fraction
of the wave cycle that has elapsed relative to the origin.

different phase
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same phase
28

Design Wave Environment

The phase angle associated with each pair of height and
period is chosen uniformly disributed in the range (0, 2 )
by a random number generator, as
=
For a given horizental coordinate, x, which is the location at
which the wave profile is desired, and time, t, which is
increamented, the wave profile is computed from

, =
=
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Design Wave Environment

Time Series
4
3
2

(m)

1
0
0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

450

500

-1
-2
-3
-4

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t (sec)

30

Wave Statistics

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Tc = crest period
Tz= zero upcrossing period
Hmax= maximum height in the record

31

Wave Statistics
Two

of

the

most

important

parameters

that

quantify the state of the sea are:

1. Characteristic

height:

mean

height,

root-

mean-square height, significant wave height

and largest height.
2. Characteristic period: mean period, average

zero crossing period, peak period, etc.

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Wave Statistics

The statistical parameters may be obtained from the wave

record directly in the time domain or from its frequency
domain representation.

The zeroth moment (needed to calculate the statistical

parameters),0 , represents the area under the energy

density
spectrum
curve

From the above equality, the relationship between

and is obtained

=
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33

Wave Statistics
Significant Wave Height
The average of highest one-third wave
heights gives the significant wave height.

Time domain

If 0 is the total area under the wave

energy
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density

spectrum,

Frequency domain

then
34

Wave Statistics

RMS Wave Height

The root -mean square (rms) wave height is calculated
from

In

the

the

wave

record

by

the

formula

Time domain

frequency

domain,

is

given

by

=
The
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rms
=

value

of

water

elevation

Frequency domain

is
35

Wave Statistics
Maximum Wave Height

Hmax in a record is obtained from the largest of all creststo-preceding-trough values in the record

Relationship between the most probable Hmax and Hrms

was derived for a given number of waves in a record

where N = Ts/Tz

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36

Example
The

table

here

gives

the

record of wave heights for a

short

duration.

Determine

the significant wave height,

root-mean

square

height

and

the

height

if

wave
occurs

operating

at

wave

maximum
this

wave

Balingian

condition

for

in

Wave Height,
H
(m)

Number of
Waves,
n

5-6
4-5
3-4
2-3
1-2
0-1

50
80
140
230
350
500

duration of 10 hours.
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37

Step 1: Tabulate the data and calculate N

Wave Height,
H (m)

Hi

5-6
4-5
3-4
2-3
1-2
0-1

5.5
4.5
3.5
2.5
1.5
0.5

Number of
Waves,
n
50
80
140
230
350
500

N= n =1350

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Step 2: Calculate the significant wave Height, Hs

= =

. + . + . + .

= .

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Step 3: Calculate the root-mean square wave

Height, Hrms
=

(.

= . .

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+ .

40

Step 4: Calculate the maximum wave Height, Hmax

= 7 sec for Operating condition in Balingian
Duration = 10 hours
Therefore, N =

= 6.98m
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=5142.86 5143

Ans.
41

Wave Forces on Structures

Wave forces on structures are calculated in 3

different ways:
1. Morison Equation

Applicable when the structure is small compare to the wave

length and thus the drag force is significant.

2. Froude-Krylove theory
Applicable when the drag force is small and the inertia
force predominates but the structure is relatively small

3. Diffraction Theory
Applicable when the size of the structure is comparable
to the wave length, thus the presence of the structure is
expected to alter the wave field in the vicinity of the structure
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42

Wave Forces on Small Structures

Morison Equation
The Morison Equation was developed by
Morison, OBrien, Johnson and Shaaf in their
paper The force exerted by surface waves on
piles published in the Journal Petroleum
Transactions at AIME 1950.
They proposed that the force exerted by
unbroken surface waves on a vertical cylindrical
pile which extends from the bottom through the
free surface is composed of two components,
inertia and drag.
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43

Wave Forces on Small Structures

Inertia Force
The principle involved in the concept of the
inertia force is that a water particle moving in a
wave carries a momentum (the quantity of motion of a
moving body, measured as a product of its mass and velocity)
with it.
As the water particle passes around the circular
cylinder, it accelerates and then decelerates.
This requires that work be done through the
application of a force on the cylinder to increase
this momentum.
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44

Wave Forces on Small Structures

The incremental force on a small segment of the
cylinder, ds, needed to accomplish this is proportional
to the water particle acceleration at the center of the
cylinder
In which dfI = inertia force on the segment ds of the
vertical cylinder,
is the mass density of sea water,
D = cylinder diameter,
= = local water particle acceleration at the center line
of the cylinder & CM = inertia coefficient
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Wave Forces on Small Structures

Drag Force
The principle cause of the drag force component is the
presence of a wake region on the downstream side of
the cylinder.
The wake is a region of low pressure compared to the
pressure on the upstream side and thus a pressure
differential is created by the wake between the upstream
and downstream of the cylinder at a given instant of
time.
As the water particle motion under a wave is oscillatory
within a given wave period, the downstream side of the
cylinder reverses every half cycle and a mirror image is
created after half a cycle.
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Wave Forces on Small Structures

The pressure differential causes a force to be exerted
in the direction of the instantaneous water particle
velocity.
In a steady flow, downstream side is fixed and the
drag force is proportional to the square of the water
particle velocity.
In an oscillatory flow, the absolute value of the water
particle velocity is inserted to ensure that the drag
force is in the same direction as the velocity.

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Wave Forces on Small Structures

Where dfD = drag force on the segment ds of the vertical

cylinder,
U = instantaneous water particle velocity &
CD = drag coefficient

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Wave Forces on Small Structures

Combining the inertia and drag components of force,
the Morison Equation is written as
f = fD + fI
where
f = total wave force per unit length
fD = drag force per unit length =
fI = inertia force per unit length =

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49

Example
Evaluate the total horizontal force per m length due to

wave and current after a time of 8 s at the centre of

the immersed portion of a vertical cylindrical member
of diameter 1250 mm immersed 12 m in water as
shown. Assume that the member is fouled and is at a
horizontal distance of +15m m from the origin O. Use
the storm criteria for Balingian location. Take mass
density of sea water as 1025 kg/m3.
y

x
12m

15m

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50

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51

Step 1: Calculation of u and ()

Storm condition in Balingian
d = 30 m
H = 8 m
T = 9.4 s
S = 30-6 = 24m

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..

= .

= .
52

Step 1: Calculation of u and ()

Use the wave table to find

= .
=

= .
= .

= .

x = 15m & t = 8 S
= = . . = . .
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Step 1: Calculation of u and ()

.
(. )
. .

= . /

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54

Step 1: Calculation of u and ()

.
(. )
. .

= . /

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55

Step 2: Calculation of uc (current)

Current Profile for storm condition in Balingian

1.5 m/s

0.3/15*6 = 0.12 m/s

6m

1.2 m/s
0.05d = 15 m

0.001d

0.3 m/s

Uc =1.5 -0.12 = 1.38 /

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56

Step 3: Calculation of Inertia Force, fI

fI = Inertia force per unit length

Since = 1.2 for fouled members

.
1025*1.2*

= 2269.29 N/m
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.
Ans.
57

Step 4: Calculation of Drag Force, fD

fD = Drag force per unit length

+ ) +

Since = 1.05 for fouled members

( +

) +

0.5*1025*1.05*1.25*(. + . )* . + .

= 829.68 N/m

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Ans.

58

Step 5: Calculation of Total Force, f

Combining the inertia and drag components of
force, the total force per unit length is calculated
as :

f = f D + fI

= 829.68 +2269.29
= 3098.97 N/m

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Ans.

59

Example
Using the following data given for the mid point C of the member AB
shown in figure, determine the total wave force acting on it using
Morison equation. Assume that the member is fouled and the wave
is propagating in x direction. Take mass density of sea water as
1025 kg/m3.
Diameter of the

member
: 1.1 m
Horizontal water
particle velocity
: 0.8 m/s
Vertical water particle
velocity
:-0.7 m/s
Horizontal water
particle acceleration
: -0.6 m/s2
Vertical water particle
acceleration
: 0.35 m/s2 60

[12 marks]
y

2m

B
C

8m

C
A
3m

A
6m

x-y view

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4m

4m

y-z view

Step 1: Calculation of Direction Cosines

A = (3, -10, 8)
B = (9, -2, 4)
L =

+ +

=10.7703 m

( )
=
= .
.

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( + )
= .
.

( )
=
= .
.

61

Step 2: Calculation of Velocity components

Given: U = 0.8 m/s & V = -0.7 m/s

= + = . /
= + = . /
= + = . /

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+ + = . /

62

Step 3: Calculation of Acceleration components

Given: = - 0.6 m/s2 & = 0.35 m/s2

= + = . 5586 m/s2

= + = . 4052 m/s2
= + = . m/s2

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63

Step 4: Calculation of Drag Force Components

Fouled member: = 1.05
D = 1.1m

= = . = /

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= = . = /

= = . = /

64

Step 5: Calculation of Inertia Force Components

Fouled member: = 1.2
D = 1.1 m

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=
= . = /

=
= . = /

=
= . = /

65

Step 6: Calculation of Total Force Components

= + = /
= . = . =
= + = /
= . = . =
= + = /
= . = . =

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Example

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81

Wave Forces on Large Structures

If the incident flow separates from the surface of the
structure forming a wake alternatively in front of and
behind the structure:
Morison Equation
If the incident wave experiences scattering from the
surface of the structure in the form of reflected wave that
is of the order of magnitude of the incident wave:
Diffraction theory
If neither separation (structure not too small compared to
L), nor large reflection is evident (structure not too large
compared to L) Froude-Krylov theory

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82

Wave Forces on Large Structures

The forces are calculated by a pressure-area method in
which the expression of the pressure due to the incident
waves is used on the surface of the structure.
It assumes the structures is not there and hence limited
practical applications.
Closed-form expressions for wave forces on a few
submerged basic structures of symmetry may be
obtained using linear wave theory.
The forces derived by this theory are to be corrected
because of the change of the oscillatory flow around the
structure, like a force coefficient.
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83

Wave Forces on Large Structures

The expressions for force components can be written as:
=
=

In which
and are horizontal and vertical force coefficients
(assigned values)
and are direction normals in the x and y directions
is an elemental surface area of the submerged
structure
The use of these coefficients limit the applicability of this
method in general.
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84

Wave Forces on Large Structures

When the structure spans a significant portion of a wave
length, the incident waves upon arriving at the structure
undergo significant scattering or diffraction.
In this case, the diffraction of waves from the surface of
the structure should be considered in the wave force
calculation.
The total velocity potential, , is obtained as a sum of
the incident and a scattered potential. It satisfies the
Laplace equation as follows.

=
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=
85

Wave Forces on Large Structures

Definition of Boundary Conditions for the Linear Diffraction Problem

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86

Wave Forces on Large Structures

The dynamic boundary condition is given by

The kinematic boundary condition is given by

Velocities are defined as

=

Bottom boundary condition is given by

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=
87

Wave Forces on Large Structures

The body surface boundary condition is given by

= + where is the velocity potential due to

incident waves and is the velocity potential due to
diffracted waves.
Closed form solutions are available for standard
problems and many commercial software are
available for numerical solutions.
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88

Wave Forces on Large Structures

When D/L ratio is less than 0.2, Morison equation is
still applicable and has proven to give good results.
Many research papers have used Morison Equation
for studying the wave responses because of the
ease of programming. This use should be carefully
done in high frequency region, where scattering or
diffraction effects will dominate.

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89

THANK YOU
2012 INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY PETRONAS SDN BHD
All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any

means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the permission of the copyright owner.