Arran

Isle of Apple Trees

Arran is the most southern of the Western Isles of Scotland, situated between
the long arm of the Mull of Kintyre and the small islands of Bute and Cumbrae
which lie close to the mainland coast of Ayrshire. As part of the Cenel nGabrain
lands of ancient Dalriada which includes the islands of Jura and Bute and the
Cowal and Kintyre peninsulas, Arran's ties were with the land and people of Eire
rather than those of the mainland coast of Scotland. As her legends and place
names show, it was the Gaelic Celts who made their home here.
Various meanings are given to the name of Arran, the three most commonly
accepted are Gaelic in origin and each one holds a certain amount of validity
when you consider the character and associations of the island. The first is
that the name is derived from Ar-Fhionn which means the Land of Fionn. The
second is Arr-innis meaning Stag Island and it is recorded in S. O'Grady's Silva
Gadelica that it was Caoilte, one of the legendary Fianna, who composed the poem
"Arran of the many stags". Incidentally, this poem is still considered an
excellent example of Bardic description and little seems to have changed today
as the people of Arran are still outnumbered by the deer six to one. The third
possibility is Ar-Rinn meaning the Land of Points. This may appear to mean
little more than a place of rugged coast-line until you realise that Rinn whose
name means spear point is one of the oldest deities of the island. We are also
told that in Eire he was one of the FirBolg and that it was he who first
discovered how to put points on the weapons of his people, hence his name. On
Arran he is also known as the Lord of Death whose song was called "The honey of
the wild bees".
Returning to the first possible meaning of the name of Arran we find that Fionn
and the legendary Fianna are once again sporting and hunting in the Western
Isles. Although the sagas of Fionn were once thought to be the latest in the
cycles, the department of Advanced Studies in Dublin university is now
considering the fact that the tales of the Fianna are set in a time when hunting
was an important part of the lifestyle of the people. The decriptions of the
countryside at that time give little indication of any large areas of
cultivation which would indicate that this was a period before agriculture
became widespread. Also the names of the four clans of the Fianna are equitable
with names from the ancient tribes of the Erainn who are recognised as the elder
race of Ireland. This makes the tales of the Fianna far older than first
thought.
Anyway, back to the Fianna on Arran. It is said in the tales that the Fianna
would come to Arran each year on the first day of Lughnassadh to begin their
hunting season on the island and their names are found recorded in many of the
places and ancient sites. One of the most notable places is Dun Fionn which sits
high on a hill above Clauchlands shore just south of Brodick and can be seen
from the ferry as you sail into Brodick. This fort of Fionn offers the most
fantastic views of both Brodick and Lamlash bays and it was from here that the
Fianna set out on many of their hunting exploits.
Another place associated with Fionn is the great cave on the west coast of the
island near Blackwaterfoot. Although it is now called the king's cave it was at
one time known as Fingal's cave. Fingal is the Scottish variation of the name of
Fionn. One of the most interesting aspects of this cave are the incredible
carvings which are to be found on the walls dating from the Neolithic period. On

the right hand wall towards the back of the cave are etched the forms of deer
with hounds following and men armed with weapons behind them. Unfortunately much
of the scene is being obliterated by the moss now growing on the walls. On the
left wall, near the entrance, are several carvings of the serpent coiled in a
figure of eight biting its own tail and in the central pillar of the cave is an
etching of a figure holding aloft a symbol although much of this has been
disfigured by graffiti. Finally, opposite the serpent on the right hand side of
the wall are carved two ancient symbols for the God and Goddess. An amazing
atmosphere of timeless antiquity permeates the cave.
Not far from the cave lies Machrie Moor with its great complex of standing
stones and cairns standing out against the flat plain. Here was the central
gathering point for many of the tribes of the inner Hebrides. Its connection
with Fionn is the first stone circle you come to made oflarge granite boulders.
The stones are set in a double ring and are known as Suithi-Choir-Fhionn or the
cauldron seat of Fionn. It is here that Fionn and his men are said to have
cooked the spoils of their hunting. Nearby are three large stones known as the
Sisters and lying on the ground beside them is another large stone with a hole
in it which is said to have been used to tie Fionn's famous hound, Bran.
One of the mounds containing a cist on the south-east side of the island at
Clauchaig farm is known as Ossian's mound where the son of Fionn is said to have
looked his last on fair Eire. The mound is also said to be his burial place.
Aside from the places associated with Fionn, Arran has an incredibly high
percentage of ancient sites for its land mass, spanning a period from Neolithic
times through the Bronze Age to the Iron Age and on. The earliest of these sites
are the chambered cairns and from the studies made by archaeologists of the
sites that have been excavated it appears that the people of the time were small
in stature and of dark complexion and colouring. The average height of the men
was 5'6" with the women being a couple of inches shorter. The majority of the
chambered cairns are to be found in the southern half of the island, stretching
across the centre of the island east to west and following the coastland right
around the south end with only a few cairns being situated further inland.
Fortunately, not all the sites have been opened, those that were did not reveal
a great deal other than pottery, flint tools and tools made from Arran
pitchstone which was used instead of flint on the island. This dark green, glass
like stone can still be found on Arran particularly in the burn at Corriegills
by Brodick. It is easy to see why it was used as a substitute for flint. Any
pieces I have come across, if not almost square or rectangular in shape, always
have at least one sharp and reasonably straight edge which could be used for
cutting and would take little work to shape in the desired way.
Archaeologists reckon that it was during the Bronze Age and Iron Age that the
standing stones and cists appeared on the island. Although the style of building
had changed, no differences can be found between the people who built the
chambered cairns and those who built the cists and standing stones. In fact in
many places the new cists and standing stones were incorporated into the
original chambered cairn sites. However, there was also a number of the
monoliths and stone circles which were erected on new sites. Whatever happened
it seems to have been a natural evolution of the same people from one style of
building to the other. Like the other Western Isles and Eire, Arran has this
north south divide where the people of the south end are still seen as a race
apart, different from those of the north.

One particular site which seldom gets mentioned in the guides is the dolmen that
can be found at Drumadoon farm near Blackwaterfoot on the west side of the
island. As far as we can tell it is the only dolmen to be found on the island.
The dolmen is formed from three stones and is known on the island as the Stone
Chest. The tales tell us that this is the grave of Malveena, the love of
Ossian's son, Oscar. Not far from the dolmen is Drumadoon Fort, set high on the
cliffs and commanding an excellent view of the Mull of Kintyre. Drumadoon in the
Gaelic is 'Druim an Duin' meaning the Ridge of the Fort and it is the biggest
fort to be found on the island, offering a place of sanctuary to a great many
people in times of trouble. Inside the large enclosure there is a standing stone
close to the entrance and further in is a freshwater spring which ensured an
ample supply of water for the people while they were there.
Other sites on the west side of the island, apart from Machrie Moor, include
Auchengallon which means 'the field of standing stones', sits on the rise of a
small hill once again overlooking the sea. The site is an impressive chambered
cairn built within a standing stone circle, some of the stones are over 5' high.
During the month of August particularly, the sunsets over Kintyre that can be
viewed from this site are truly spectacular. A little farther south is an
assembly point known as Cnoc na Ceille or the Hill of Meeting.
Heading north again we come to Auchencar where the tallest standing stone on the
island is to be found, rising 18 ft out of the ground. It had a companion of
similar height at one point but unfortunately it has since fallen. The farm next
to these stones is still known as Druid farm although the house no longer seems
occupied.
Another site which seldom gets mentioned is Cnoc a'Chlochair or the Hill of the
Assembly. This fort is situated the furthest inland of all the forts on the
island between Brodick and Blackwaterfoot on the string road. What is unusual
about this fort is that it is divided into two separate sections, east from
west, creating a walkway from north to south which gives the impression of being
able to walk into the hillside in front of you. The fort is situated at the
meeting of two glens and not far away is another small hill known as Serpent
Mound. The old tales mention that Serpent Mound was used in past times and that
the people used to gather on the mound after walking up it in spiral fashion
like the coils of a snake.
Another area associated with snakes is Lochranza at the north end of the island
where one site is known as Narachan, meaning the Place of the Snakes. It was
here in later times that the convent of St. Bride once stood. However, Lochranza
and indeed the whole of the island was one single parish, the parish of Bride,
until the coming of Molios who was of the royal line of Gabrain of Dalriada. On
his arrival the two fold division was brought back in. This time however the
island was divided down the centre, splitting east from west. Lochranza itself
is known as the Loch of the Rowan tree river and it is this river that marks the
meeting point of the two parishes of St. Bride and St. Molios. The rowan tree
has long been associated with the Goddess Brighid and it is interesting to note
that it is in this same area that the famous Whitebeam, a Rowan peculiar to
Arran, is to be found.
In Glen Rosa, in the Brodick area, overshadowed by Glen Shant Hill, the Sacred
Glen Hill, can also be found Allt na Bride, the stream of Bride. A drink from
the clear mountain water of this stream is both refreshing and rejuvenating, its
source lying high in the hills where only the deer roam. Also from this point

can be viewed Cioch na h'Oige, the Pap of the Maiden.

Emhain Abhlach is the other name for Arran, meaning the island of Apple trees.
Although Arran was once famous for its Apple trees this name refers to no apple
from an earthly tree but rather the honey tasted apples of the Land of Perpetual
Youth. From the tales we hear of the exploits of many of the Gaelic deities in
this land of paradise. At one time the King of the De Danaans gave the great Lir
the choice of three foster daughters as a new wife, their mother was Ailioll of
Emhain Abhlach. Manannan, Lir's son, also has associations with the island. It
was to Emhain Abhlach that he sent Bobaran Ban, the druid, to act as guardian
over the children of Deirdre and Naois, Gaer and Aevgrain. Skilled druid as he
was however, Rinn the Lord of Death, in the guise of poet and harper tricked him
into breaking his geis which resulted in him losing both the children. Manannan
in his anger at hearing how he was tricked despite being forewarned of the
events, turned Bobaran into the form of a white wolf to wander the land of
Emhain forever.
Far into Glen Cloy in Brodick, can be found the remains of Manannan's fort, also
known as Torr nan Sian or the Fairy Mound. It is said that Manannan was able to
sail his boat, Ocean Sweeper, right up what is now the flat basin of Glen Cloy,
to his fort. The fort is surrounded by a range of hills known as the Sheans or
Sithean which means Fairy Hills. On the other side of the river in Glen Cloy is
the big chambered cairn of Glen Rickard, this is one of the sites where the High
Kings of Ireland were buried on the island.
Another place in Glen Cloy is Cruachan, the cave of the Cruachan sisters who
were shapeshifters, taking the form of wolves to attack their prey. The tale
tells us that they were shot in the form of wolves but it was later discovered
that after their death they had returned to their human form.
Other otherworldly associations can be found in the tales of Ciabhan honey mouth
of Emhain Abhlach and his tempting of Malveena. Also the tale of Cathal of the
Woods who became one of the Annir Choille or Sidhe of the wood when he met
Deoin, also known as Green Breath.
Then there is the island of Innis Eabhra, the enchanted island, lying off the
shore of Corriecravie near Iron Rock. At certain times the island appears and
people can be seen going about their daily business in a land lush with fields
of corn. It is said that a man with a grey filly once jumped overboard from a
boat on sighting the island and disappeared. Sea maidens with enchanted cloaks
would also leave Innis Eabhra sometimes to stay with a man of this world but
after a period of time they would always return to their underwater realm.
With such strong relations with the otherworld it comes as little surprise to
learn that the people of Arran were careful to keep on good terms with the
Sidhe. No one would ever have considered taking wood or earth from the vicinity
of the Sidhe mounds which is probably why so many of them remain intact today,
all be it in a very overgrown state! The relationship between the people and the
Sidhe seems to have always been a relatively harmonious one with only the odd
occasion where the Sidhe were seen as destructive or harmful. The Sidhe taught
certain people their arts of healing in places like Torr a' Chaisteal mound in
Corriecravie and they gave aid in times of need. Many of the families had
animals associated with their names and the Sidhe were said to send a sign in
the form of that animal to warn the family of an approaching death.

The people of Arran also celebrated the pagan festivals until a particularly
late date. It is less than 100 years since the last festival was 'openly'
celebrated by the people and the sacred fire was kindled using the nine sacred
trees. Also there are people still living who remember the men being sent out
from the farm to the field where the last sheaf of the harvest was left
standing. There, all the men would be blindfolded and each of them would take it
in turn to throw a sickle at the sheaf. When eventually the sheaf was cut a
cheer would go up from the people and the sheaf, known as the Cailleach, would
be taken into the kitchen of the farm and kept there until the spring.

Copyright: 1992 Helen McSkimming

[First published in Dalriada magazine]