Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
2015
MENTORED BY:
BY:
SUBMITTED
MR.ANKUR SAXENA
RIDDHI MALVIYA
ASST.PROFESSOR
(B.F.TECH VII)
TABLE OF
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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SERIAL NUMBER
TITLE
PAGE NUMBER
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
CERTIFICATE
INTRODUCTION
COMPANY PROFILE
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
11
25
FABRIC SOURCING
28
45
54
10
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
64
11
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
73
12
SEWING DEPARTMENT
86
13
97
14
TESTING LABORATORY
104
15
WASHING DEPARTMENT
111
16
PROJECT
117
17
CONCLUSION
136
17
REFERENCES
137
18
INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS
138
CERTIFICATE:
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
Apart from my efforts, the success of this whole internship and projects depended largely on the
encouragement and guidance of many others. I take this opportunity to express my gratitude to
the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of the project and whose
contribution in assorted ways to the internship project deserves special mention.
I would like to express my immense gratitude and sincere appreciation to Orient Craft , UNIT
9K, Gurgaon for giving me an opportunity to pursue my apparel internship at their highly
esteemed organization.
In the first place, I would like to record my deepest sense of gratitude to Mr. Sandeep Mall, from
the industrial engineering department of Orient craft, for his supervision, advice, valuable
support and guidance from the very early stage of the course of my internship, which enabled me
to proceed in the right direction and accomplish the mission of my visit. I am thereby thankful to
him for taking the pain to go through the project and make necessary corrections as and when
needed.
Also, I would like to thank my college mentor, Mr. Ankur Saxena, for always being available to
address any doubts I might have concerning the internship and guiding me along the way. . It is
because of his guidance and constant supervision that I have been able to collect and learn the
required information regarding my project.
I would also express my sincere thanks to Mr. Nobhonil and Mr. Hitesh Vashishta, HR for their
co-operation and precious inputs on each and every step of my internship. I am delighted to
express my heartfelt thankfulness to Mr. Manoj Tiwari (Assistant Professor, NIFT, Bangalore),
who constantly inspired me to work hard and learn more on this project, and also provided me
with required information.
I also thank Mr.Dinesh (Cutting); Mr.Lalit Mahani (Sewing); Mr.Vikram (Merchandising) and
my merchandising mentors Ms. Tripti Gupta and Ms Janhavi Bhalerao. Words are inadequate in
offering thanks to my parents and the Almighty God for their encouragement in successful
completion of the project. It would not have been possible without the kind support and help of
many individuals in the organization. Finally, I would like to thank everybody who was
important to the successful realization of this internship, as well as expressing an apology that I
could not mention everyone here. Thank You!
INTRODUCTION:
Garment Industry is a well-organized enterprise and is amongst the best in the world. It
constitutes of designers, manufacturers, exporters, suppliers, stockiest, and wholesalers. Indian
Garment Industry has carved out a niche in the global markets and earned a reputation for its
durability, quality and beauty. Today's changing consumer preferences - buying branded apparel
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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This report is a brief of the processes of apparel manufacturing that I observed and learnt during
the internship.
1.2 STATEMENT OF STUDY:
To study about the garment manufacturing process in the Industry.
1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF STUDY:
This study will provide an in-depth knowledge of the production of garment from the fabric and
trims procuring to the final dispatch by using technology and also the management process of
manufacturing.
1.4 OBJECTIVES OF STUDY:
COMPANY PROFILE
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Nike
Levis
Dockers
Lands end
Minimum order quantity: 200 doz per style
No. of people employed: 8000 in-house
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1. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
1. Receipt of Inspiration/Mood-Board/Tech-pack/GSS/Garment from the buyer:
Merchandising team works on seasons which are set according to buyers calendar.
Merchandising & design team may get inspiration or theme/trends from the buyer before the start
of the season in the form of design, mood board, new fabric quality, different processed
inspirations (wash/ embroidery/ print/ sequence etc), and colour forecasts. Merchandising team
passes this inspiration to the design-development team for design creation based on the buyers
input.
Merchandising usually receives the buyers requirements in the form of a tech-pack or garment
specification sheet (GSS) which has the details about technical aspects of garments and all
specifications pertaining to the particular style like fabric details, trim details, value additions etc.
This document acts as a bible for the merchandising department.
Merchandisers sometimes also receive the GSS with only technical specifications of the
garments like seam length, sleeve length and other measurements. This can be precursor to the
tech-pack which also has details about the quality & kind of fabric, trims, special elements etc.
The buyer sometimes might provide physical garment along with tech-pack so that the
merchandiser can get a clear understanding of the buyers requirements. This is usually done if
the design of the garment is complex and tricky, or the garment has a lot of special elements in it.
2. Feasibility Checking and Analysis with Central Planning:
Merchandisers checks with the Central Planning about the capacity of the factory whether
availability is there for taking up a new order or not. Apart from checking feasibility of the
factory in terms of manpower-days, the merchandiser also checks the feasibility of the style with
the sampling department. If the style doesnt proves to be feasible, the buyer is suggested for
reconsidering the quantity or style according to the capacity and if that doesnt works the style is
dropped.
3. Checking availability of fabric with the stores:
One of the most important pre-production activities of the merchandising department is to make
the samples. Sample is a prelude to the order confirmation. For this purpose, first the fabric
availability is checked with stores. If the fabric is available, the Inter office memo (IOM) is
issued to the stores department. The stores issue the fabric to the sampling department,
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Activity
Obj Procedure
ecti
ve/P
urp
ose
Produ
ct
Devel
opme
nt
Developi
ng new
samples
To
Two types of
dev
sample
elop development
new takes place:
sam
ples
as
1. Sample
per
developed
by the Inthe
house
buy
design
ers
team.
requ
irem
ent
Past
and
knowled
ge of
cost
buyers
fact
product
ors.
and cost
requirem
ents is
kept in
mind
during
the
design
and
product
and
sample
develop
ment
stage.
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Perfo
rmed
by
Resp
onsib
le
perso
n
Produ
ct
Devel
opme
nt
Tailor
Desig
ner
Produ
ct
Sampl
ing
Inchar
Work Reports,
aid/
Reference
Equip s
ment
Product
Developme
nt Sample
Report
Product
Sample
Register/Sa
mple
Review
Samples
for these
designs
are made
under
designer
s
supervisi
on.
These
samples
are sent
to the
buyer for
selection
, along
with the
costing
and
product
details.
2. Sample
based and
developed
on buyers
product
package/sa
mple.
Sample
is
develope
d
complete
ly in
accordan
ce to the
buyers
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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Devel
opme
nt
Tailor
ge/Me
rchan
diser
Sheet
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CAPACITY CALCULATIONS
PLANNING EFFICIENCY
The planning is done efficiently so that the PCD date is met and the shipment is done on
time. In case the production target is not being met, the following options are called for:
Generally the slide in covered up in the next days production
X-factory extension is requested from the buyer.
Overtime or working on holidays by the operators
Out-sourcing from outside unit, when the slide is beyond the capacity of the unit
PPC needs to keep a check on:
Daily production
Utilization of full capacity
One order affecting next order due to delay, this needs to be highlighted
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Reverse Planning is done for the Shipment activities while forward planning is done for
the pre-production activities.
Pre-production Time:-7-10 days
Trim Order Time: - 5-7 days
Production Time: - 30 days
Planning revision and line planning is done on every 2 months.
Daily meeting is conducted by the Planning Department, Cutting Department,
Production Manager and the Finishing In-charge
DOCUMENTS
Batch plan
Operation bulletin- from IED for planning the target production per day
PO sheet- for referring to the x-factory date
Fabric flow (DC)
Trims flow (DC)
Daily production reports- from the sewing floor
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FABRIC SOURCING
Procurement of fabrics (finished) from the supplier, based on buyer requirement.
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Research:
Develop fabric swatches based on buyer requirement specified in the form of boards,
CAD design, fabric swatches.
-The design team of the industry also develops swatch cards for some buyers based on
the forecasted trend.
Product development
-The CAD designs from the buyer provides specification based on the color, weave
pattern, yarn count, GSM etc.,
-The PD team has several standards for colour like Pantone Book and CSI - Color
Solution International Standard.
-Quotation for developing the fabric is received from several mills with sample.
-The best suited vendor is selected based on price, quality, quantity, capacity, lead time,
terms with SEPL by the sourcing team.
-On approval of the vendor the supplier is asked to develop fabric for sampling.
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-On receiving the sample yardage with an average lead time of 10 days the fabric is tested
for buyer requirements.
o Solid -Lab dips
o Yarn dyed -Desk loom
o Print -Strike off
-The test reports are sent to the merchant and then to buyer for approval.
-On approval of the merchant it is sent to BI team for approval.
-on approval the sourcing team is informed to release the PO through mail.
-On rejection of the fabric /comments received on the fabric from merchant or buyer the
supplier is requested to rework on the fabric and send it back for approval, this continues
until the merchant and buyer approves on the fabric.
-Once approved the sourcing team is advised to release the cost for sampling to the
supplier.
-Sample yardage costs one and a half times bulk fabric cost or flat 250-300
Bulk purchase
-On order confirmation, Fabric Sourcing receives Order Confirmation Meeting details from
marketing via email which includes fabric quality, color, quantity, fabric content, count,
construction, fabric weight and any special instructions, plan cut date(PCD), garment delivery
additional processes, item no, style no.
- Fabric Sourcing team will Receives PI from supplier via e-mail and Fabric sourcing team will
review PI if it is as per the requirement same will be forwarded to marketing , If PI Is not as per
the requirement information will be sent to supplier to rework on PI
-Merchant provide item-wise details to the fabric sourcing team and Update FOB( First o Bulk)
submission date and finalize bulk flow
FOB (First of Bulk) submission
- The supplier will forward First of bulk to Sourcing and Sourcing team will verify the initial
quality and color, if it meets the requirement ,it will be forwarded to marketing.If it is not
meeting the requirement ,sourcing team will request supplier to resubmit the First of bulk
- Supplier will provide 100mtrs fabric in each color for size set and other preproduction activities
to the merchant along with a card which has all the information from Location to the Quantity
received.
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Buyer directly advices the Color standards to the mill with the information to marketing
team who in turn will inform our Fabric Sourcing team via email.
Once Fabric Sourcing receives information from Suppliers through email /phone, the
Sourcing team will inform supplier to start development for the sampling purpose
Supplier will Start fabric sample development as per requirement and Sourcing team will
ask for the sample in time
Fabric sourcing team does fabric cost negotiation with supplier (with projected numbers)
and gets sampling fabric simultaneously
NON STAFF:
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
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Checked against hanger swatches received from the merchandiser on the basis of colour/
quantity/design.
Spectra light- it is a visual colour evaluation. it provides five light sources:
o Stimulated day light (D65)
o Horizon (Early morning sunrise/afternoon sunset)
o Illuminant a (Incandescent home light)
o Cool white fluorescent (CWF)
o Ultraviolet (UV)
o Custom fluorescent (TL-84/u30)
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fabric construction
fabric weight
dimensional stability
warp and weft shrinkage
shade of the fabric
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On the shipment of a particular style, the factory would be sending back the remains of
production, cut bits and the balance fabric, which could not be used or consumed.
Based on this receipt an order completion report is (OCR) generated which includes:
o complete purchase
issue
return
stock summary
sale order details
o Purchase
PO number
date
buyer
style
total order quantity
o Issue and returns
Quality issued against lot no./colorwise
o Stock
Quantity consumed by factory
o Summary
Total receipts
issues-balance stock
The order completion report will be sent to the merchandiser/merchant manager for sign
off/approval.
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FABRIC DEFECTS
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HEIRARCHY
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QUANTITY
- Here quantity is being checked 100 %
- The poly-bag is opened and counted and weighted.
- Again it is being put-up in another bag and the details are mentioned.
QUALITY
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CHECKING PARAMETERS:
Cords/ Tapes/ Lace
-
Color
Width / Length / Height
Thickness
Wearing
Designs
Tipping / Wordings
Shrinkage
Metal contamination
Buttons / Zippers
-
Metal contamination
Finish
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Scratches
Chippings / Brockens
Color variation
Size variation
Stain marks
Lace
Buttons
Hook
Poly Cover
-
Ceiling Problem
Printing Problem
Zipper
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Operability problems
Shade variation
Metal rusting
EXCEL ENTRY
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CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL
ENGINEERING
Industrial engineering proves
to be an indispensable part
DEPARTMENT (IED) itself
of the garment industry. It plays
IED
SAMPLING PROCESS
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With total calculation this operation bulletin gives the duration to stitch the garment with 100%
efficiency SAM (Standard allowed Minute), then this SAM (100% efficiency) is multiplied
with the efficiency slab (based on order quantity) to calculate the run time for the order.
OB format contains:
Operation bulletin contains following information.
a. Daily working hours
b. Target output per day or per hour
c. Total SAM (Sewing SAM and Non-sewing SAM)
d. OB prepared by (Name of the Engineer)
e. Job code
f. Operation description
g. Machine description
h. SAM @ 100% Efficiency
i. SAM @ target efficiency%
j. Calculated production per hour
k. Name of the Folder and attachment if used
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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OB PREPARATION:
Step 1: Prepare the operation breakdown for the garment.
Step 2: Identify the machine type required along with folders, guides or attachments based on the
seams needed to produce the required style.
Step 3: Enter the SAM value of the operation from the GSD software available.
Step 4: calculate production / hr @ 100 and target efficiency from the formula:
-Calculated Production/Hour @ 100 % efficiency = 60/Operation SAM @ 100 % Efficiency
-Calculated Production/Hour @ target efficiency = 60/Operation SAM @ target Efficiency
Step 5: Calculate theoretical number of machines required
-Calculated Machine number = (SAM @ target efficiency * Daily production target/Total
minutes in a shift day)
Step 6: The actual no of machines required is determined by rounding off the theoretical no of
machines.
Step 7: Calculate estimated production per hour:
-Estimated Production/Hour = (No. of machine assigned * Hourly target qty.)/Calculated no. of
machines.
Step 8: Create a machine summary table. This table will help you to quickly find how many
actual machines are required for each machine types.
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ON ORDER CONFIRMATION:
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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Formulas Chart
Formula#1: Daily Line Target = (Total working minutes in a day X No. of
operators in a line X Line efficiency %) /Garment SAM
Formula#2: Individual operator target = (Total working minutes in a day
X line efficiency %) /Operation SAM
Formula#3: Individual operator Efficiency% = (units produced X
operation SAM X 100)/Total minutes worked
Formula#4: Line Efficiency% = (Line output X garment SAM X
100)/(Number of operators X minute worked in day)
Formula#5: Machine Productivity: Line output / No. of machine
used
Formula#6: Labor Productivity = Line output / No. of total
manpower (operators +helpers)
Formula#7: Line WIP (work in process) = Total pieces lie on the
line for a particular order line
Formula#8: Standard Time = (Observed time X observed rating)
+ Allowances
Allowances Relaxation allowance, contingency allowance
Formula#9: Machine utilization% = (Actual Machine running
Time X 100) / Time available
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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING
It is the first section of garment manufacturing process. This section is used for making sample
garment for approval and pattern sets for bulk production when needed. The main objective of
this department to book consumption fabric, create samples, sizes set and check whether the bulk
production of the particular style is possible in-house or not.
Lead time for sampling is 7 days from the day of receiving of tech pack.
The sampling section follows the make through system for producing the garments.
There are different pattern masters for different buyers.
The sampling process till the sealer sample is done at the central sampling department.
WORKFORCE
Supervisor: -3
Tailors: - 62
Pattern master: - 5
RELATED DEPARTMENTS
The sampling department has communication and interchange of data with the following
department:
Merchandising
Sewing
IED
Planning
Pattern making
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Cutting
Sample production
STAGES OF SAMPLING
1. Proto Sample
a) It is made for style approval and checking the feasibility of the production.
b) Same types of materials are used, with same quality. However, substitute materials of same
quality can be used like fabric and trims.
c) Pattern is made in the CAD.
d) 3 pieces are made as proto sample.
e) One piece is sent to merchandiser and another one to the buyer.
f) The comments are receiver by the merchandiser from the buyer.
2. Fit Sample
a) It is made to check for fit and construction.
b) 3 to 6 samples are made at this stage.
c) Internal quality auditing is done.
3. Pre-Production Sample
a) It is made by using actual fabrics and trims.
b) It has accurate dimensions.
c) Three pieces are made for any size.
d) One piece is sent to buyer for approval.
4. GPT Sample
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Buyer File: - Tech pack, Purchase order, Style analysis, comments, etc.
Shrinkage report
Pattern production report
Size set report
Trial piece report
Issued sample report
Cutting report- daily/ monthly
Daily batch-wise production report
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DEPARTMENT HEIRARCHY
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CUTTING DEPARTMENT
SPREADING AND CUTTING
The cutting department makes the marker plan according to fabric consumption is planned
and requested from the fabric store.
The marker plan has the following details which gives the fabric consumption per marker:
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Nap direction
Way( number of garments per lay)
Lay length
Lay height; number of plies
Marker plan is prepared as per the shipment date of the size wise order ratio.
Marker making software- Optitex
The marker efficiency achieved for basic styles is 80-90%
The number of pieces that need to be shipped first are cut first and bundled accordingly.
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PLOTTING
Plotting is the process of printing the markers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut.
Computer-driven plotters are used to draw pattern pieces, graded nests of patterns and markers
with complete annotation, as needed.
SPREADING
Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or
specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. Lay planning is done and
spreading is done accordingly. Spreading is done by :
Manual Spreading:
The fabric roll is fixed on a clamp just before the spreading table. One helper is there to draw the
fabric from the roll and pass on the table. The other two operators spread the fabric to other end
of the table and while returning back to the starting point edge matching is done manually and
the layer is straightened with the help of a big scale. End cutters or scissors are used to cut the
fabric.
Basic spreading equipment consists of: 1. Spreading surfaces,
2. Fabric cutting devices.
In case of manual cutting end-cutters or scissors are used. The fabric is spread on the smooth
table surface and spreading is controlled manually. Papers are used after certain layers of spread.
The repetition in insertion of paper depends on the type of fabric.
1. White Paper: To provide the stability to the lay while cutting and avoid them from sliding.
2. Colour Paper: To differentiate the shade variation.
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CUTTING
Pattern verification is done by QC before cutting. Cutting of the spread lay is done by : Band Knife Cutting: One cutter and a helper are required in cutting by band knife. Cutting
clamps are used to keep the cut parts together in lay.
For stripes and checks block cutting is done. After that relaying is done.
RELAYING
Stripes and checks matching are done for the block cut fabric. After this the block goes for
cutting again.
The marker is planned with a relaying allowance around all pieces that must be matched. The
fabric is spread as through it were plain, and cut up into blocks. The blocks requiring matching
are then relayed, manually, so that all the superimposed plies are correctly positioned. The
relayed blocks are then cut in the normal way. This method is useful if there are relatively few
pieces requiring matching, as it can reduce spreading times considerably and permit longer
markers.
POSITION MARKING
This operation marks components with guides for sewing and other operations. Drill marker is
used for marking the pocket placement positions, dart lengths etc. The mark itself is a very small
hole.
SHADE MARKING
This operation ensures that the components cut from different shades of the same colour do not
get mixed up during the assembly process. Every component for one garment is marked with a
unique number, printed on a small ticket which is stuck on the component.
BUNDLE PREPARATION
Bundles of cut work are prepared according to the size, colour and quantities, their actual
composition determined by the requirements of the sewing room. Generally the bundle size
varies from 60-100 pieces as required.
BUNDLE TICKETS
These tickets identify each bundle and in themselves play an important role on production
planning and control for sewing and finishing sections.
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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Number
Size
There are two ways of ticketing followed here: Paper ticketing
Stamp ticketing
There are ten colours used for ticketing. This colour is decided by the quality in- charge based on
the shade variation.
FUSING
Fusing is done on continuous fusing bed machine. The objective of fusing is: 1. TO make sewing easier and increase production
2. Pertaining shape and improving materials appearance
3. Making a functional, lasting ,easy to wear product
Two types of fusing are commonly used for this purpose: 1. Microdot fusing: - FS- 1008, RF-712 & AF- 407 are some common microdot fusing.
2. Woven fusing
Colour: - White and Charcoal
Temperature: - According to buyer requirement, varies from 140 C to 160 C.
Pressure: - 2 KgF, 3 KgF, 4 KgF
Time: - 10-12 sec, 14-16 sec, 16-18 sec
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Feeding Width: - 35
Machine Length: - 60
Feed Length: - 157
Feed Out Cooling Length: - 75
Table Height: - 37
Source of Light: - 60 up from table
WORKFORCE
Workers: 65
Cutters: 10
Spreaders: 18
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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DOCUMENTS
DEPARTMENT HEIRARCHY
PROCESS FLOW
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SEWING DEPARTMENT
SEWING
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WIP CONTROL
Work in progress (WIP) control comes under the responsibility of the line manager and the
supervisor. They keep an eye on the batch setting process and if there comes any flaw, they
immediately take preventive and corrective measures.
A pre-production planning is done based on the OB and the pilot run and if by current batch
setting the required output is not coming then they control WIP by line balancing and introducing
the helpers and floaters.
PRODUCTION SYSTEM
Production system is any method of transformation of various resources into useful finished
goods and services. The transformation process typically requires common resources like manpower, capital investment for equipments and machineries, space (land and building) and other
resource to effect a change.
These are called as factors of production which includes man, machine and land. According to
production managers production system stands for five Ms i.e. Man, Machine, Money, Methods
and Materials.
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QUALITY CONTROL
Quality control is a set of procedure and inspection level which each and every finished garment
has to pass through. It is a set standard for inspection process which meets the requirements of
the customers. In order to implement any quality control measure, the industry should be aware
of the quality which a final product should meet. Then the extent of quality control action should
be determined i.e. percentage of the goods and services to be inspected from the total units
produced. Then the reports of fail percentage and passed percentage should be given to
management personnel.
After that corrective action must be taken according to the defect level and whether the final
product should be accepted or rejected should be decided by the management. And if there is too
many units which fails then there is the need to change the setup on production floor.
Finally, Quality control is ongoing process top ensure that remedial efforts, if required, have
produced satisfactory results and top immediately detect recurrences or new instance of trouble.
There are various types of defects found in finished garment that are as follows:
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WORKFORCE
Workforce is the labour pool in the employment. This is the workforce only who converts the
various resources into useful goods and services. Workforce at OC is divided into two main
categories, namely:
Contracted labour.
Permanent labours employed by OC.
Contracted labour: These labours are hired for a particular style and after that when the target
is met, they may or may not be allotted to some other style. They have a line supervisor who
makes sure that there is smooth material flow and neither machine nor the operators are sitting
ideal. No training is given by the company to these labours as they are contracted based on their
skills.
Permanent Labor: These labors are recruited and trained by the company itself. They are
divided into the following categories:
Low skilled
Semi-skilled
High skilled
Multi skilled
Floaters
According to their skill level, they are graded and their salaries are decided. The work allotted to
them is based on the style and the skill required for the operations involved. Floaters are the most
skilful operators among all since they are the experts in carrying out almost all the necessary
operations. They are paid highest among all the operators.
DOCUMENTS
Documents which are maintained in sewing department are as follows:
Cutting inspection report
Measurement checking report
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BUTTONING SECTION
Once the garments are produced they are sent to washing department then they are forwarded to
finishing department where buttons are attached. Before attaching the buttons, the button placket
and the cuff placket are ironed. Buttoning is not done during production because during washing
it may get damaged.
DEPARTMENT HEIRARCHY
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PROCESS-RESPONSIBILITY CHART :
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Tagging
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STEPS INVOLVED:
This department includes majorly of the following steps,
1 TRIMMING:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the seams.
2 SEMI PRESSING:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes from the
washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then inspect it and
trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
3 INSPECTION:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it depends on
the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the company has to do as
specified.
4 PRESSING:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments are
pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
5 TAGGING SECTION:
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are sent
for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and miscellaneous labels if
any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are folded according to the
buyers specification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after
they are put to the hangers as per the buyers specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in are all
suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these specifications.
6 PACKING:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the packing of
the garments they are as follows,
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,
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SOLID PACKING:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single colour and same size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will be put in one
carton box.
RATIO PACKING:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of different sizes according
to the ratio.
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
purpose
of this is to detect the presence of a broken needle in the garment and ensure the product safety.
All garments (except the garments with the RFID tags) must undergo a compulsory needle
detection check. In case if the presence of a needle is detected, the garment is held at that point.
The hand needle detector is used to then detect the parts of the garment thoroughly. If the needle
is found (rectifiable corrective action), it is removed, the garment packed again and passed
through the needle detector machine. If no needle is found even using the hand needle detector
(non rectifiable), the garment is rejected and not sent for cartooning.
8 SCANNING:
After the garments have been packed into the cartons, the garments pieces must be scanned (as
per buyer requirements). Scanning process for different buyers is different.
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10 PRE-FINAL AUDIT
The pre-final audit is done by the NQA as per the AQL. If the garments pass the specified AQL,
after inspection, they are offered to the buyer QA, if not then they are sent for re-screening.
11 FINAL AUDIT
The final audit is done by the Buyer QA in the same manner as the Pre Final audit is explained
above. The Buyer QA will mark the cartons to be checked and they will be checked 100% for
packing and trim accuracy as per the specified AQL. After the audit is complete, the audit report
is filled up.
12 REPACKING
The opened cartons are 100% audited and have to be repacked for the shipment. Once the buyer
confirms the shipment, the cartons are sealed with the BUYERS TAPE. The operator will
arrange the cartons boxes into the lot according to the PO and style.
The cartons now will be trucked out, while the packing auditor monitors the number of cartons in
the particular PO.
TESTING LABORATORY
Laboratory in an apparel industry is used in testing the raw materials like fabric, trims,
accessories for their physical and chemical properties based on buyers requirement. SEPL has a
centralized laboratory for woven at Sarjapur unit with different testing facilities like physical,
wet and chemical testing.
1 STANDARDS FOLLOWED:
AATCC: American Association of Textile Color and Chemicals.
ISO: International Organisation for Standardization.
ASTMD: American Society of Testing Material Designation.
2 HIERARCHY OF LABORATORY:
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PROCESS FLOWCHART
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ACTIVITY CHART
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EXTERNAL LAB
EXTERNAL LABS:
1. SGS
2. ATS
3. Intertek
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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TYPES OF TESTS:
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Tensile strength
Seam opening
Tearing strength.
2 Crock meter
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II. Machine 2
5 GSM cutter
Diameter- 111mm
Purpose- Costing of the fabric
No of warp and weft threads are calculated.
6 Twist tester
7 Mechanical shaker
Daylight
Cool white
Horizon
UV
TLB4-U30 (tube light)
A (defect checking)
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WET LAB
WASHING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
o Before wash
o After wash
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Shade
Hand feel
Damages & stains
Patches
Pilling
Abrasion effect
Tinting
Odour
NUMBER OF MACHINES
There are 18 washing machines in the washing unit of capacity varying from 10-30 kg for
sampling purpose and 100-500 kg for bulk washing.
Washing machines has in-built hydro extractor having capacity of 50 kg and100 kg.
Dryers are of capacity 100 kg and 200 kg.
TYPES OF WASH
Softener wash
Enzyme wash
Stone wash
Bleach
Denim wash-Medium/Dark
Tinting
Rubber ball wash
WASHING TIME
Medium Wash/Softener Wash 10-12 hrs
Heavey Wash 24 hrs Enzyme Wash 2 hrs Normal Wash 1-2 hrs
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PROCESS FLOW
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PROJECT:
DECREASING ALTERATIONS IN THE SEWING ROOM:
The sewing room is perhaps the most important department in the industry. The fast changing
economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin, customer demand for
high quality product, product variety and reduced lead-time etc. have a major impact on
manufacturing industries. The demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to
survive, apparel manufacturers need to improve their operations through producing right first
time quality and waste reduction. It is important to identify, quantify and eliminate sources of
variation in an operational process, to optimize the operation variables, improve and sustain
process performance with well-executed control plans. The industry can gain higher productivity
and profitability with improved quality product by minimizing the need for reworks. It also
minimizes cost and improves internal throughout time.
The fast changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin,
customer demand for high quality product, product variety and reduced lead-time etc. have a
major impact on manufacturing industries. The demand for higher value at lower price is
increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers need to improve their operations through
producing right first time quality and waste reduction. It is important to identify, quantify and
eliminate sources of variation in an operational process, to optimize the operation variables,
improve and sustain process performance with well-executed control plans. The industry can
gain higher productivity and profitability with improved quality product by minimizing the need
for reworks. It also minimizes cost and improves internal throughout time.
In garment business, it is quite usual that few rejected garments are left after shipment due to the
unacceptable, and sometimes unrepairable, defects that occur during the manufacturing process.
This may happen due to low quality raw materials or faulty process or employee's casual
behavior (machine and/or human error). It is important, therefore, that the factory has evolved
well defined check points to control the quality and reduce the rejection percentage. Reworks in
the garments industry are quite common but they hamper the smooth normal production.
We see a lot of rejected garment after shipment. Most of the organization termed these garments
as rejected because those garments cant be repaired by any means. Reworks in the garments
Riddhi Malviya, NIFT Jodhpur
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OBJECTIVES
o
o
o
o
PROCESS FLOW :
OBSERVATIONS:
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Number of alterations
400
200
0
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PART 1
Location
o Wovens Sewing room
o Line 2
Style number
o 558015
Buyer
o Banana Republic
Order quantity
o 10000 pieces
THE PROBLEM
o Uneven placket width
o Problem of puckering, roping
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THE SOLUTION:
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PART 2
Location
o Wovens Sewing room
Line
o 3
Style number
o 289221
Buyer
o Banana Republic
Order quantity
5000 pieces
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THE PROBLEM
o Roping and puckering at the bottom hem
o Causing unevenness
o Causing difference in measurement
THE SOLUTION
o Add a stay-stitch at the hem before doing the final hemming
o Add one operator to the line and train him to do the stay stitch
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300
250
200
Total garments
produced
Number of
alterations
150
100
50
0
Day 3
Day 4
Day 11
PART 3
New correct method to sew main label for clean finish from front &
back.
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Step 1
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Step 2
Step 3
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Back side
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Step 4
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Back.
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CONCLUSION
The industry internship proved to be a fruitful experience for me. The three months exposure to
the organization was a good learning curve in my career. It helped me to learn the practical
manufacturing and processing techniques in garments right from the fabric stage to the finished
and packed garment stage.
During my course of internship, I tried to grasp the concepts of apparel manufacturing, including
cut to pack techniques. I also observed the process flow of various departments in one of the
largest export house of the company .I also noted the different quality aspects that are checked
throughout the production of apparels by the quality Auditors of the respective departments.
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REFERENCES:
http://eaasjournal.org/survey/userfiles/files/Minimization%20of%20Reworks%20in%20the
%20apparel%20industry.pdf
INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS
SR.
NO.
1
2
3
4
5
NAME
DESIGNATION
PHONE
KAMAL
NATH
SANDEEP
MALL
TRIPTI
GUPTA
HITESHWAR
SHARMA
PRIYA
ABHITESH
GM
FINISHING DEPT
INDUSTRIAL
ENGINEER
PD
MERCHANDISER
CAD MANAGER
9818835570 KAMALNATH002@GMAIL.COM
GM , CAD
EMAIL ID
9899279464 sandeepkmall15@gmail.com
9999829811 TRIPTI.GUPTA@ORIENTKNITS.COM
8230230222 HITESHWAR.SHARMA@OCKNITS.CO
M
9811706119 PRIYABHITESH@GMAIL.COM
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