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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

INDIA

FESTIVALS MYTHOLOGY
WILDLIFE MARKETS
MUSEUMS PALACES
HOTELS NATIONAL PARKS
TREKKING BEACHES MAPS
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU


 
 

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

INDIA

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

INDIA

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The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

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##
The external boundaries of India as shown in this book are
neither correct nor authentic.

Ashokan Capital, Sarnath

  

 




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at Khajuraho,
Madhya Pradesh

INTRODUCING
INDIA

DISCOVERING INDIA 813


PUTTING INDIA ON THE MAP 1417
A PORTRAIT OF INDIA 1833
INDIA THROUGH THE YEAR 3439
THE HISTORY OF INDIA 4057

               

 

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a UNESCO World Heritage Site

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Colourful Kohima

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)''%20%7)%8*0%2/)(&<7,),-0063*7,)%67)52
%2($)67)52,%762(-%6 /1 1-0)032+ The Himalayan landscape
+,)**%&.'''"*
'3%670-2)&35()56327,)5%&-%2 )%7,)2(-%2
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THE ARID WEST


!,)!,%5)6)57%2(7,)6)1-%5-(6'58&0%2(6
%(.3-2-2+-76844357%68545-6-2+9%5-)7<3*
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+-9):%<*857,)5:)67737,)&%55)26%07*0%76
%2(1%56,)63*7,)%223*87',

THE GANGETIC PLAINS


!,)5-',%0089-%063-03*7,)6)9%6740%-26
:,-',675)7',%'53662(-%*5317,)
2357,:)67737,))%67,%6&))2'807-9%7)(*35
7,386%2(63*<)%56!3(%<5-')%6:)00%6
:,)%768+%5'%2)%2(4806)6%5)+53:2,)5)

Blackbucks )
$&%+*. +*+
% $#*&-) %
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$ #*')&,)

Asiatic lions&%
&,%##&-)%&)+)%
% )%&.*%&%#/
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Crested serpent eagles

)#))'+&)*. +
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,%). %*

Asian elephants

%,$)&%#/

 %&$
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Painted storks

$ )++&#"*%
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+ )) %
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Wild boars)
&$$&% %$&*+
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Avocets $ )++&+

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THE COASTS
!,)(-9)56)0%2(6'%4)63*7,)'3%676-2'08()
6%2(<&)%',)6-23%%2()5%0%*5-2+)(&<
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%2(1%2+539)*35)676-2$)67)2+%0%2(
5-66%!,))%67'3%67-63*7)2,-7&<'<'032)6

THE DECCAN PLATEAU


)4%5%7)(*5317,)%2+)7-'0%-26&<7,)
6'%77)5)(5%2+)63*7,)#-2(,<%67,))''%2
0%7)%8-6'39)5)(:-7,&0%'/930'%2-'63-0
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1-2)5%0:)%07,-2'08()6+30(%2((-%132(6

Starfish. # %

+% &,*#/+&)&"*
%*% %+ #
'&&#*###&%+
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THE GHATS
!,),-0063*7,)$)67)52%2(%67)52,%76
%5)'39)5)(:-7,*35)6763*7)%/536):33(
*#&))&,*+%2(6%2(%0:33(
%+#$#,$45-=)(*35-76*5%+5%27
:33(%2<35',-(64)'-)6%063+53:,)5)

Tigers%

%%)*' *
%%,$) %
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+&,%+)/
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'% %*,#)% 

Nilgiri tahrs

# - %+
 )#-
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Daniel butterflies)

&$$&% %+) &%


Langurs &)%,$%
$&%"/*  )1234-7,)'86
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Peacocks% *%+ &%# )

')&)$*'+,#)%.%
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3).&8
=*&741)&7(-.9*(9:7&1
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(4:397=82&/477*1.,.4383).,*34:8
+4728.3(1:)*:))-.8989:5&8&3)
243&89*7.*8&3).3):&3)&.39*251*8
*''
1 .3).;*78*89=1*8&3=
3).&39*251*8-4<*;*78-&7*(42243
Ceiling panel from a 897:(9:7&1(-&7&(9*7.89.(8'*.3,24891=
Jain temple
':.194+8943*(41:238&3)-47.>439&1
'14(084+9*37.(-1=(&7;*)<.9-8&(7*)
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)42*&8<*11&89-*:8*4+2479&7<*7*.3974):(*).3
9-*
9-(*39:7='=9-*:81.2(436:*7478
BUDDHIST ARCHITECTURE
3).&8*&71.*897*1.,.4:8243:2*398&7*89:5&8
-*2.85-*7.(&1+:3*7&7=24:3)8&3)74(0(:9
8-7.3*8  +0*&3)243&89*7.*8- )*
%-.1*  +0*<*7*51&(*84+<478-.5- )*
<*7*)<*11.3,51&(*8+47:))-.8924308&3)
(438.89*)4+82&117*8.)*39.&1(*118&77&3,*)
&74:3)+4:78.)*84+&345*3(4:79
Circumambulatory
path

Sculpted column, Narayana


Temple, Melkote

Entrance
Vaulted
ceiling

Hemispherical
mound

Model stupa

Chaityas*)-*##*,7.-&8&)

&%)+ &%#.&)* '%


%*) %$&#*+,'+&%%

Torana
(gateway)
Railing

Rock-cut

Stupas.)$&%,$%+#)# (,) * %. +**


& , *++)* %#, %+ ,.) %+))
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(-&.9=&8 -
 *+ %+ -
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&)**&
*')

HINDU TEMPLES
Vimana
(pyramidal
spire)

3 479-3).&9-*84&7.3,94<*7&'4;*
9-*.33*78&3(9:29&0*89-*+4724+&
(:7;.3, * ")85.7*9455*)<.9-&
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(74<3*)<.9-&-*2.85-*7.(&147'&77*1
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51&(*.3&82&11)&708&3(9:&7=034<3&8
9-* )) <42'(-&2'*7
Mandapa (hall or
pillared pavilion)

Amalaka
(circular
ribbed
motif)

Kalasha
(pot finial)

Shikhara
(curved
temple
spire)

Carvings
of deities
Entrance

South Indian temples*,*%!-,)* )  *-)


$'#8**55 ?-&)) &)*%*' &,*##*
2&3)&5&8. +')&,* &%&&)+&#,$%**#
+&+,&7'-&,7.-&&-. ) **+$,#+ *+*' )

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486:*8&3)
942'87*57*8*39
&3.25479*)97&
).9.439-&9<&8
&'847'*).394
3).&3&7(-.
9*(9:7*486:*8
Mihrab, Bidar mosque
-&;*)42*)
(see p545)
57&=*7-&118&9
43**3)4+&3
45*3(4:79=&7)#-* $ )&7(-*)
3.(-*+&(*8<*8994<&7)8*((&#-*
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7&.8*)43&-.,-51.39-.39-*(*397*
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(&11.,7&5-=,*42*97.(5&99*738&3)
+147&1249.+89=5.(&14+81&2.(&79

ISLAMIC ARCHITECTURE
Chhatri (domed
rooftop pavilion)

An onion-shaped
dome8:724:3989-*

(*397&185&(*
Intricate
jalis

Plinth

Minarets

Taj Mahal (see pp1723), the zenith of Islamic architecture

GURDWARAS
#-*".0-,:7)<&7&&57&=*7(-&2'*7<-*7*
9-* )%+ 4741=440.8-4:8*).8
4+9*3744+*)<.9-&)42*+1&30*)'=&7(&)*8
&8*)439-*1&9*:,-&189=1*57*;&.1.3,.3
479-3).&.39-* 9-(*39:7=,:7)<&7&8
'1*3)81&2.(&3).3):&7(-.9*(9:7&189=1*8
Gold plated
dome

The prayer
chamber

-4:8*89-*
41=440

The Golden Temple in Amritsar (see pp106107)

Amalaka
Jagamohana
(assembly hall)

CHURCHES
#-4:,-(-:7(-&7(-
.9*(9:7*.3*7&1&
57*)&9*89-*&77.;&14+
:745*&382489
-7.89.&351&(*84+
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.3&*449-.(89=1*
8:(-&89-*+,-&3
*247.&1 -:7(-4+"9
4-39-*;&3,*1.89
*' 

Kalasha
(pot finial)

Tower with
thin tapering
steeple
Pointed
arched
windows

Entrance

Afghan Memorial
Church, Mumbai

Pot finial

Conical
roof

Deul
(temple spire)
Metal
tiles

The Mukteshwar Temple 8**5 


+0'  *) ***+$'#) ++,)
*%+,)0*,)- %*' ))*:1%
%!& % %**$#0##/&,&24-&3&



Wooden
screen

Brass bells

Keralas temples*,*+&%+++,$%,)8**
5 - *+ %+ -&)$*%+,$*)&+% )
,#). +)&&*&*#&' %+ )*&$+#*+*&)+))&++
+ #*)-.&&.&)"%$,)#*$## *+*+),+,)



            

 

 


Windows 0$(-1/(0$#
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mirrored room
,.-3,$-2 +1" +$5(2'13/$0!
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(,/.1$#2'$(0.5- 0"'(2$"230 +12 ,/ %31(.-.%
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&$1" -!$1$$-2'0.3&'.32030 +-#( 

Laxmi Vilas in Vadodara (see p419),


built in the late 19th century

Mughal
dome

CIVIC ARCHITECTURE
-2'$,(# 2'"$-23072'$ 0(2(1'!$& -2.(-".0/.0 2$
$+$,$-21%0.,-#( -1+ ,(" 0"'(2$"230$(-2.30./$ -
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Sculpture,
127+$5'("'5 1 ,.0$$+$& -217-2'$1(1.%-#( -
Churchgate
Station, Mumbai
-#30./$ -20 #(2(.-1
End towers

0$
130,.3-2$#!7
1, ++!3+!.31
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Colonnaded
verandahs03-

2'$+$-&2'.%
2'$!3(+#(-&

A dome

"0.5-12'$
"$-20 +
"' ,!$0

Gothic window, Mumbai


University

The entrance
porch ' 1 

! +".-7 !.4$

Prince of Wales Museum, Mumbai (see pp45051), inspired by Bijapurs Gol Gumbad (see p543)

THE COURTYARD
.,$12(" 0"'(2$"230$(--#( (1&.4$0-$#!7
/3!+(" -#/0(4 2$1/ "$1'$%0.-2/.02(.-
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5.,$-%0.,2'$/3!+("& 8$

Courtyard with wooden pillars and carved doors


     
        



Extended
VERNACULAR ARCHITECTURE
Walls 0$, #$
timber "21 1
30 +'.31$1(--#( 0$%+$"22'$ 5(2'120(/1.%
13//.021
".3-20714 0($#"+(, 2$ -#2'$ ! ,!..
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%0.,2'$120$$22'0.3&' %.0, +
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Tribal houses &!$%& !$&%&$
niche
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120.-&/0.2$"2(4$0..%1
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7 0#-$ 02'$5$++.05 2$013//+7(-#3
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Mountain homes$'&! $!'  


$!'%&!$*)&&$!' !!$%$( 
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Central Indian villages$&&*")&


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MATERIALS FOR CONSTRUCTION


0 #(2(.- ++7,.12
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+." ++7 4 (+ !+$, 2$0( +
,!.. -#2' 2"'5$0$
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ceiling
5'(+$12.-$ -#2$00 
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0 #$1' ' 0 1'20  -#.32'-#( 
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, 2$0( + -#(1$(2'$0 //+($##(0$"2+7.0
,(6$#5(2'".5#3-& -#120 5

Woven bamboo
panel for walls

Coconut palm
leaf roof

Thatched roof
made of grass

Half-cylinder
tiles

Terracotta
sun-dried bricks

Stone slabs, ideal


for walls



                

   


'$4 12/ -2'$.-.%(-#3&.#1
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VISHNU ANANTASAYANA
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KEY
Tropical rainy region:
consistently high temperatures
and heavy summer rainfall.

9.3

4.4

9.6

8.6

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

4.2

193 19.3

14

Humid subtropical region: hot


summer followed by heavy
rainfall. Dry winter.

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Tropical savannah region: long,


dry season with high summer
temperatures. Mild winter.
Tropical and subtropical steppe
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Giant cacti growing in the arid


Thar Desert, Jaisalmer

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This arid
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MUMBAI
C/F 32/90
30/86 32/90
25/77 25/77 25/77

Tropical desert region: high


summer and very low winter
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29/84
19/66

Mountain region: cold and dry


climate. Short summer.

9.6

Mountain region: cold, humid


winter. Short summer.

2.5

8.3

9.1

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hrs

hrs

hrs

2.8

710

88

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hrs

hrs

hrs

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

.VNCBJ

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Average
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KOLKATA

33/91

C/F

27/81

36/97

32/90 32/90

25/77 26/79 24/75 27/81

19/66 21/70

21/70



Average
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14/57

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8.8

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hrs

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6.8

211 31.2 24.9

mm

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Jul

Oct

42.7 301

160 13.8

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mm

mm

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Jan

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Average daily
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Average
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21/70 23/73

26/79

18/64
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9-16)44%-1*%//*4206,)
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mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

CHENNAI

$IFOOBJ

C/F

35/95 35/95
32/90
29/84
26/79 26/79 24/75
20/68

0 km
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9.5

5.4

6.4

8.6

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hrs

hrs

hrs

24.7 83.5 267 23.8


mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

250
250

                



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=23: 90 >2/ +>398+6 9@/7/8> A+= 38./:/8./8> 38 <3>3=2 .+C= 38>9 >2/
>+5/89@/<,C92+8.+=+<+7-2+8. 8.3+8 '8398 8 6+>/
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heroes, past and present
TIMELINE
1885

8.3+8 +>398+6
981</==09?8./.

1911 &<+8=0/<90
-+:3>+6>9/623
+889?8-/.+>>2/
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1910
1905

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90/81+6

1920 98-99:/<+>398
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,C +8.23

1920

1942#?3>8.3+9@/7/8>

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1930

1919+663+8A+6+

  

1940
19478.3++>>+38=

+127+==+-</

1913 $+,38.<+8+>2
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1948+2+>7+
+8.23
+==+==38+>/.

1940?=637

8./:/8./8-/"+<>3>398
193032 3@36
3=9,/.3/8-/
79@/7/8>


  

1950
19523<=>
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=?00<+1/

&      % & ! $ *  !   

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= > + > /   A 3 > 2
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8 / .  / - 9 8 9 7 C 
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8
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Nehru, with his daughter
38@+./. 89<>2
Indira and grandson Rajiv
/+=> 8.3+ +8.
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2?7363+>381 ./0/+> 98 >2/ 8.3+8
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8//./. 79./<83D+>398 90 8.3+=
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98/. )2/8 >2/
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=2/ A+= ./0
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 9 8 1 < / = =
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during a literacy campaign
: 9 A / <  0 9 <

0<97"9<>?1?/=/<?6/
19628.3+

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+816+./=2

238+A+<

1960

1970
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1980
19758.3<+

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38
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 + =/<3/= 90 -9+63>398 19@/<8


7/8>= 2+@/ ,//8 38 :9A/< A3>2 >2/
38.? 8+>398+63=> 2+<+>3C+ +8+>+
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>9
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 =8.3+89A2+=
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1992 /=><?->39890
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1961 9+63,/<+>/.

  

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1990
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2007"<+>3,2+
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8.3+

DELHI &
THE NORTH

INTRODUCING DELHI & THE NORTH 6067


DELHI 6897
HARYANA & PUNJAB 98107
HIMACHAL PRADESH 108133
LADAKH, JAMMU & KASHMIR 134155



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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp69091 and pp72021

    



   


 
Jaipur House, near India Gate.
Tel (011) 2338 5378.  10am5pm
TueSun.  Mon & public hols.


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Triveni Kala Sangam Tansen Marg.
Tel (011) 2335 6139.  9:30am
5pm MonSat.  public hols. 
 Rabindra Bhavan Ferozeshah
Rd. Tel (011) 2338 1833. 
Kamani Auditorium Copernicus
Marg. Tel (011) 2338 8084.
Shri Ram Centre Safdar Hashmi
Marg. Tel (011) 2335 2410.  
National School of Drama Bhagwan
Das Rd. Tel (011) 2338 8249.
For Tickets see Entertainment p96

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Janpath. Tel (011) 2301 9272.
 10am5pm TueSun.
Mon & public hols.   extra
charges.   11:30am,
2:30pm, 4pm.  

Film shows, lectures,
presentations and special
exhibitions.


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First floor

Ancient and Medieval Sculpture


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Buddhist Art
Indian Miniatures

STAR EXHIBITS

 Dara Shikohs
Marriage Procession

 Nataraja
 Kubera
 Illuminated Koran

Decorative Arts
Manuscripts and Wall Paintings
Central Asian Antiquities
Textiles, Arms and Armour,
Musical Instruments
Coins and Indian Scripts
Jewellery
Wood carvings

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Teen Murti Marg. Tel (011) 2301
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The Ashokan Pillar, rising above the ruins of Feroze Shah Kotla

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Gandhi National Museum

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Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg.  daily.

Gandhis samadhi at Rajghat

  
Mahatma Gandhi Rd.  daily.
Prayer meetings 5pm Fri.
Gandhi National Museum
Tel (011) 2332 8310.  TueSun.
 public hols. Film shows 45pm
Sat & Sun.

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THE BAZAARS OF OLD DELHI


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Indian spices on sale in Khari
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Between Nicholson Rd, Ramlal
Chandok Marg & Church Rd.
St Jamess Church Lothian Rd.
Tel (011) 2386 0873.  daily.
 English: 9am Sun.

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Statues of former viceroys around the Coronation Memorial

 
 

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The impressive yellow and white edifice of St Jamess Church

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp69091 and pp72021




    

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Chanakyapuri. Tel (011) 2688 0804.
 TueSun.  public hols.
 extra for train rides. 

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A well-stocked shop selling


imported foodstuffs at INA Market

  
Aurobindo Marg. Shops  TueSun.

Aurobindo Marg. Tel (011) 2301


7293.  daily.   extra charges
for video photography. 

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A late 19th-century steam engine at the National Rail Museum

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The double-storeyed madrasa (college) at Hauz Khas

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp69091 and pp72021

An arched window with a carved


stone jali, Khirkee Mosque

  
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.  daily. 
Conservation Assistants Office,
(011) 2664 3856.    
 Phoolwalon ki Sair (early Oct).

  


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Mehrauli, Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.
 7am6pm, 79:30pm daily.

 Qutb Festival (Oct/Nov).

  
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+76<:1>16/<70)>-)/)<-?)A
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*=:1-,16Ghiyasuddins
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DIRECTORY
ANTIQUES,
JEWELLERY AND
SILVER
Bharanys
Sundar Nagar Market.

FabIndia

Tibet House

PVR Priya

Greater Kailash I,
N-Block Market.
Tel (011) 2621 2183.

Lodi Rd.
Tel (011) 2461 1515.

Basant Lok,

Tulsi

Tel (011) 2614 0048.

Santushti.
Tel (011) 2687 0339.

Shri Ram Centre

Forest Essentials

Tel (011) 2435 8528.

46-B, Khan Market.


Tel (011) 4175 7057.

Cooke & Kelvy

The Shop

Janpath.

Connaught Place.
Tel (011) 2374 6050.

Tel (011) 2372 1081.

Crafts Museum
Shop
Pragati Maidan.
Tel (011) 2337 1269.

Shyam Ahuja
Santushti.
Tel (011) 2467 0112.

ENTERTAINMENT
VENUES
India Habitat
Centre
Lodi Rd.
Tel (011) 2468 2222.

Vasant Vihar.

Safdar Hashmi Marg.


Tel (011) 2371 4307.

Siri Fort
Complex
Asian Village Complex.
Tel (011) 2649 3370.

Trade Fair
Authority of India

HANDICRAFTS
AND GIFTS

India International
Centre

Oberoi Hotel.

Da Milano

Tel (011) 2337 1540.

Tel (011) 2436 3030.

Connaught Place.
Tel (011) 2341 5490.

40, Lodi Estate,


Max Mueller Marg.
Tel (011) 2461 9431.

Indian Council for


Cultural Relations

205, Tansen Marg.

Ravissant

TEXTILES, SHAWLS
AND CARPETS
Abraham &
Thakore
31, Lodi Colony Main Mkt.
Tel (011) 2460 3455.

Good Earth
Santushti.
Mehrauli.
Tel (011) 2685 1757.

Gulab Singh Johri


Mal

Azad Bhavan,
IP Estate.
Tel (011) 2337 9309.

Kamani Auditorium
Copernicus Marg.
Tel (011) 2338 8084.

Khan Market.

Dariba Kalan,
Chandni Chowk.
Tel (011) 2327 1345.

Tel (011) 2460 3423.

Kamala

The Carpet Cellar

Rajiv Gandhi Handicrafts


Bhavan, Baba Kharak
Singh Marg.
Tel (011) 2374 3322.

National School of
Drama

Anokhi

1 Anand Lok.
Tel (011) 2626 1777.

Cottage Industries

Mittal Tea House

Janpath.

8-A, Lodi Colony Mkt.


Tel (011) 2461 5709.

Tel (011) 2332 0439.

Bhawalpur House.
Tel (011) 2338 9402.

PVR Anupam
Community Centre,
Saket.
Tel (011) 2686 5999.

Pragati Maidan.

Triveni Kala
Sangam
Tel (011) 2371 8833.

EXHIBITIONS
Art Heritage
Triveni Kala Sangam.
Tel (011) 2371 9470.

National Gallery of
Modern Art
Jaipur House,
India Gate.
Tel (011) 2338 2835.

National Museum
Janpath.
Tel (011) 2301 9272.

                



   

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A view of the Hari Mandir or Golden Temple from across the sacred pool, Amrit Sarovar, at Amritsar



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Skilled swordsmanship at the


Hola Mohalla festivities

Hola Mohalla ! !

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The splendid Durbar Hall at the Qila Mubarak, Patiala

 


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Patiala district. 63 km (39 miles) SW
,<+3.= +8.,<312>6C
of Chandigarh.  269,000. 
/7,<93./</.0+,<3-
Basant (Feb).  MonSat.
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A typical phulkari
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 &2/63@/6C,+D++<+<9?8. Hand-embroidered jutties on sale in


Patialas bazaar
>2/09<>900/<=>2/-3>C=
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p692 and p722

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+>398+6 8=>3>?>/90%:9<>=
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 Durbar Hall Museum
 TueSun.  with permission. 
 Old Moti Bagh Palace
 TueSun 

   
Fatehgarh Sahib district. 55 km (34
miles) W of Chandigarh.  31,000.

Punjab Tourism, (01763)
22 9170. Urs at Rauza Sharif
(Aug), Shaheedi Jor Mela (Dec).

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96+92+66+0/=>3@+6
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SIKHISM

A mid-19th-century painting of
Guru Nanak with his disciples

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! 



        &   

! $ & 


 

Amritsar district. 217 km (135 miles)
NW of Chandigarh.  1,000,000.
 Palace Hotel opp railway station,
(0183) 240 2452.  12 km (8
miles) NW of city centre. 
 Guru Parab (Nov).

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Kapurthala district. 165 km (103
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p692 and p722

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View of the Golden Temple complex, with the central shrine and main entrance

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Christ Church
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Contact caretaker if church is closed.

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The interior of the Gaiety Theatre, a focal point of Shimlas cultural life

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

 State Museum
Chaura Maidan. Tel (0177) 280 5044.
 TueSun.  public hols.


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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Shimla district. 375 km (233
miles) N of Delhi.  142,200.
21 km (13 miles) SE of Shimla.
  HP Tourism, The
Mall, (0177) 265 8302. Sipi
Fair (May). Travel permits are
required for some areas of Himachal (see p115). Contact Deputy
Commissioner, (0177) 265 3535.

 Viceregal Lodge
The Mall. Tel (0177) 283 1375.
 daily. 

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Jakhu Hill.  daily.

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The stately Viceregal Lodge, set amid manicured lawns

SHIMLA CITY CENTRE

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

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For permission contact: Divisional
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Corporation. Tel (0177) 265 2911. 
 Himalayan Nature Park
Kufri.  daily. 


 
Solan district. 45 km (28 miles) SE of
Shimla.   Hotel Chail Palace,
(01792) 248 141.

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Solan district. 77 km (48 miles) S of
Shimla.  5,000. 

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A temple on Hatu Peak, a days hike
65-6<:-;<:1+<176;1587;-,*A
from Narkanda
<0-)=<07:1<1-;0)>-8:->-6<-,
<0-74,<7?6.:75*-16/<)3-6
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;<:=+<=:-;;):-;=4<74,
Shimla district. 64 km (40 miles) N of .);0176-,*=14,16/;?1<0/)*4-
:77.;)6,?77,-6*)4+761-;
Shimla. 
:-5)1616<)+<76<0-Upper)6,
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Lower Malls<0-<?75)16

5
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HILL STATIONS
A<0-4)<- <0+-6<=:A?0-6<0-:1<1;00),+76;741,)<-,
<0-1::=4-166,1).)5141-;*-/)6<7+75-7>-:.:75:1<)16
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+0=:+0-;07;81<)4;8):3;
Kennedys Cottage, by Captain J ?1<0*)6,;<)6,;)6,)5)16
;<:--<16>):1)*4A367?6);
Luard, Shimla, 1822
&0- )447):,16/;+0774;
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+014,:-6?07?-:-=6)*4-<7/7*)+3<7;<=,A166/4)6,



FESTIVALS OF
HIMACHAL PRADESH
Shivratri !
)6,1 7+)4,-1<1-;):-
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;=::7=6,16/0144;76
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Summer Festival

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Manimahesh Yatra

 $ 0):57=:&0814/:15)/-<7<0-;)+:-,
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Dussehra  #=44=
"  
Lavi Fair % $)58=:
#:7,=+<;.:75:-57<-
&1*-<)6,),)30?-:-
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'6=<;)6,;0)?4;
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Renuka Fair % !)0)6
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/)<0-:)<<0-;07:-;7.<0-
$-6=3) )3-<7+-4-*:)<-
<0-+7584-<1767.<0-
0):>-;<)<<01;.)1:

Colourful Kinnauri shawls on


sale at the Lavi Fair, Rampur



        $    

" $ 

 
    
$./935;4:'/45;99:':+=/:./:9<'9:<'8/+:>5,
:+88'/495,,+89'=/*+8'4-+5,:8+19,853
+'9>54+*'>./1+9:5=++1254-85;:+9:
25=+8'2:/:;*+9:8'/29=/4*:.85;-.,58+9:95,
5'1*+5*'8 ,/- *,'4*6/4+
A cone from
a deodar tree =./2+9:++6+8)2/3(92+'*:5,25=+89:8+=4
'26/4+3+'*5=9'(5<+:.+:8++2/4+$.+
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#+6:+3(+8'4* ):5(+8',:+8:.+3549554;8/4-:.+
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)*."$)"-
13"%&4)

LOCATOR MAP
Area shown below
0 km

20

0 miles

20

      
#'' )"$)" &( ($' ,*/. ,*-- -,*&2
. ,,$).*.# ( *1-.,$/)-. +- ).
' -.*.# ),#,--1$.#0$ 1-*!.# $,
)%'+ &-) )-..# -(''.*1)*!
# .,*)) . 2,*.*#(
Duration: 5 days
Altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate to tough
b

KEY

(FQBOH(PI
 N GU

$IBNCB
#IBSNPVS

The Pin Valley Trek


Naggar to Jari
Manali to Beas Kund
Dharamsala to Macchetar

,BJMBTI
 N GU

#FBT
,VOE

.BDDIFUBS
*OESBIBS1BTT
 N GU

,VBSTJ

%IBSBNLPU

National highway

3PIUBOH1BTT
 N GU

5SJVOE
%IBSBNTBMB

4PMBOH

)BOVNBO5JCCB
 N GU

b
b

1BMDIBO
.BOBMJ

/BHHBS

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$IBOEFSLIBOJ1BTT
 N GU

Major road
Minor road

.BMBOB
+BSJ

,VMMV

.BOJLBSBO
b
b

1VMHB

Peak


3/2+85;4*:8/6:5:.+-2')/'22'1+5,
+'9;4*2+'*96'9::.+91/9:':/54':
#52'4-'4*5<+8-2')/'2358'/4+:5:.+2'1+
9;885;4*+*(>945=)2'*6+'19

/)

Starting at Palchan near Manali' 13

#FB

BT

#F

Pass

.BOEJ

Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,980 m (13,058 ft)
Level of difficulty: easy

4B

UM
#JMBTQVS VK

   
#$- &( ($' ., &,*-- -.# 
#),&#)$--*!! ,$)"!$) 0$ 1-*!
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' -+-..# $-*'. ')0$''" 9++
6
.* ).,$$),0.$'' 2
Duration: 4 days
Altitude: 3,500 m (11,483 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate

For additional map symbols see back flap

         ! "    # 



PRACTICAL TIPS

  



.,.$)".)$&,)
!(*/-!*,$.-#*.-+,$)"-
.# 
&(($' 
+.#"* -*0 ,.# $)
,0.$--.*.# *'
 - ,., "$*)*!.# 
 /.$!/'$)'' 2.
)-.$&&$( &(
 ($' -!,*(.# ($)
,*# .3
Duration: 7 days
Altitude: 5,319 m (17,451 ft)
Level of difficulty: tough

,B[B
b

4Q
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b

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1B
SW

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1JO
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b

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#SJEHF
b

1JO1BSWBUJ1BTT
 N GU

%BOLBS

.VE

Be prepared: Acclimatization is
essential for areas over 3,000 m
(9,843 ft). See p767 for tips on
altitude sickness. Guides are needed as maps are insufficient for safe
passage across glaciers. For details
on trekking see p751.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Carry a first aid kit and
cooking fuel. Never burn wood,
which is a scarce resource. Put out
all fires properly, leaving no
burning embers. Do not litter, and
carry your rubbish back with you.
Permits: Foreign visitors require
travel permits for parts of Spiti and
Kinnaur, obtainable from the
district or subdivisional
magistrates offices in Shimla (see
p111), Rekong Peo (see p119),
Kaza and Kullu (see p126). The
offices at Kaza, (01906) 222 302
and Rekong Peo, (01789) 222 253
are the most efficient. For general
details see p758.
Equipment hire & operators:
The Institute of Mountaineering
and Allied Sports in Manali
(01902) 252 342, and Yeti
Trekking in McLeodganj (01892)
221 887, organize treks. The
Regional Mountaineering Centre in
McLeodganj, (01892) 221 787,
offers mountaineering courses. In
Manali, Himalayan Adventurers,
(01902) 252 365, is a reputable
rafting agency, the Himalayan
Institute of Adventure Sports,
(01902) 253 050, offers paragliding, and Himalayan Journeys,
(01902) 252 365, offers mountain
biking. See also p755.
Caution: Trekkers have gone missing in Parvati Valley. It is advisable
to trek in groups and to take an
experienced guide along.

OTHER ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES


/3').'2!8'*+9..'99+<+8'26+'19
5<+8  3 ,:9;/:'(2+,58
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/22/4-/4'4-8'/3'2'>'45;84+>9
- + /4'4'2/5,,+8935;4:'/4
Climbing a rock
face, Tirthan Valley
(/1/4-4+'8:.+"5.:'4-!'99

Renuka Lake, venue of the Renuka


Fair held in November

  
Sirmaur district. 100 km (62 miles) S
of Shimla.  Renuka Fair (Nov).

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Environs

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Lake=.59+9.58+2/4+:8')+9
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9.'6+5,.+8(5*>::.+,'8
+4*5,:.+2'1+/9'93'22
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5,2/549/3'2'>'4(2')1
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        "     

" 

 
 
  
"+(3$/$&(&706(03/(&203/(:2)6+(
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'(,6;216+(623)/2242)6+()(7'$/&+,()5
+20(65(/$%24$6(/$;276&215,5652)$5(4,(5
2)&2746;$4'5&211(&6('%;%($76,)7/*$6(9$;5
Carved
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tiger
0;4,$')24052)6+(*2''(55$/,,5+275(',1
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$552&,$6('9,6++,5624,&$/(8(165'$6,1*626+(6+&(1674;
9+,/(3$4652),6$4($4271' ;($452/'
The pavilion in the spacious
gardens of Rampurs palace

  
The Ram
Mandir,5

Shimla district. 130 km (81 miles)


NE of Shimla.   daily.
 Lavi Fair (Nov).

1&(216+(0$,164$'(4276(
%(69((11',$$1'",%(6
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" #
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#*'(', *!# &&(*+&,
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Slate roofs

 
Shimla district. 198 km (123 miles)
NE of Shimla.   daily. 
Dussehra (Sep/Oct).

(4&+('+,*+$%28(6+(/()6
%$1.2)6+(!$6/7-!$4$+$1
9$521&(6+(5700(44(5,
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8$//(;9,6+6+(69,13($.52)
75+7,5+7$1'6+(+2/;
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56$1',1*2763420,1(16/;
!$4$+$150256,16(4(56,1*
5,*+6,56+(53(&6$&7/$4629(4
6(03/(Bhimakali6$/52+$5
$5+2461$674(64$,//($',1*62$
3+($5$164;"+(0$1;
3+($5$165+275('+(4(,1&/7'(
6+(021$/$1'6+(1($4(:6,1&6
#(56(41,0$/$;$164$*23$1

Narasimha
Temple

STAR FEATURES

 Carved Balconies

&$'*,$1'*,
%,$''*,, &,*&
'(&+!&,', !*+,'-*,1*

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

 Tower Shrines
 Silver Doors

         

   ! 

!
 -((*%'+,+,'*1', 
*&'.,,%($!+*!&1
'.* &!&$'&!+/!, 
0)-!+!,$1*.(&$+



VISITORS CHECKLIST
 daily.   Janmashtami
(Jul/Aug), Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
Obligatory to wear the saffron
cap, available outside. Shoes and
leather objects not allowed.

 " 
 &!&'/*'&, *! ,/+
, %!&,%($-&,!$!,/+%
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, *'1$(,*'&+

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of stone and
timber

 
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, ,%($*''+

Carved tiger
statue

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Temple at Sungra Maheshwar 3

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NG

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+

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+)..5

0 km
0 miles

5
5

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!:8;4-5;:'254-'2/::2+96;8(+25=
:.+85'*9)+4/)',5;8/9:.+,/89:
/4.'(/:+*</22'-+/4/44';8".+
/83'"+362+*+*/)':+*:5'25)'2
35:.+8-5**+999:'4*95;:'3/*
:.+92':+855,:569

The Satluj Gorge at Tranda 2

853:.+85'*:.+8+'8+9:8/1/4-
</+=95,9.++885)1='229
,'22/4- 3
 ,::5:.+
8/<+84:.+5:.+89/*+)2/,,9
5,+7;'23'-4/:;*++4)259+
:.+!':2;0/4'4'885=
/36+4+:8'(2+-58-+

  
Kinnaur district. 244 km (152 miles)
NE from Shimla to Rekong Peo. 
19,250.   daily.  Sazi (Jan).
Travel permits are required for parts
of Kinnaur. Contact the Subdivisional
Magistrates office in Rekong Peo,
(01786) 222 253. For details see p115.

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View of the Kinner Kailash on a clear winter day

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

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   ! 



TIPS FOR DRIVERS


KEY
Sapni 4

Tour route

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River

Sangla 6

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Chitkul 7


NG
RA

3H

TI+
H


AD

2O
K

Road

Length: 90 km (56 miles).


Getting around: The tour begins
at Kafour village. The steep road is
rough and winding, and is best
negotiated with a 4-wheel drive.
Sangla and Chitkul villages offer
places to stay and eat, as well as a
few shops with basic provisions.

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Young Buddhist monks in a monastery, Kinnaur

:.)+4:;8?



        %   

! # % 

  

 
Kangra district. 222 km (728 miles)
NW of Shimla.  9,200.  Gaggal,
10 km (6 miles) N of Kangra town.
 Joginder Nagar and Una. 

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A cluster of village houses with sloping roofs in Mandi
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Mandi district. 156 km (97 miles) N of )0-1/0<7.  5


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Shimla.  26,900.  Joginder Nagar, 35
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53 km (33 miles) NW of Mandi, then
 %0->)44-A,-:1>-;1<;6)5-
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The square-shaped Rewalsar Lake resting in the hollow of a mountain spur


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

         " #    $ 

Temple 35 514-;

The towering spire of Brajeshwari


Devi Temple in Kangra town

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Terraced paddy fields in the Kangra Valley

PAHARI MINIATURE PAINTINGS


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Kangra miniature,1788, depicting Krishna
)6,1)55= =:8=:0)5*))6,=44=
killing the serpent-demon, Kaliya



        "     

" 

  

Kangra district. 238 km (148 miles)
NW of Shimla.  19,100.

Gaggal, 11 km (7 miles) S of town


centre. Pathankot, 80 km (50
miles) NW of Dharamsala, then bus or
taxi.  HP Tourism, McLeodganj
(01892) 221 205.  daily. 
Summer Festival (May), Bodh Festival
(Oct/Nov).

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Tibetan nuns in their red robes, a common sight in Dharamsala

Tsuglagkhang Temple

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 Museum of Kangra Art
Main Rd, Dharamsala. Tel (01892)
224 214.  TueSun.
 Library of Tibetan Works

and Archives
Gangchen Kyishong, McLeodganj
Rd.  MonFri.
 St-John-in-the-Wilderness
 daily.  11am Sun.

Environs

The brightly-painted faade of Namgyal Monastery, McLeodganj


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

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RELIGION AND CULTURE


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Tibetan opera

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See also features on Buddhist Iconography (p141) and In the Buddhas Footsteps (p221).



        %   

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Chamba district. 378 km (235 miles)
NW of Shimla.  20,300.  
daily.  Sui (Apr), Minjar (Jul/Aug).
Travel permits Contact the Deputy
Commissioner, (01899) 225 371. For
details see p758.

%01;<7?6?);+07;-6);<0-
+)81<)47.<0-.7:5-:
8:16+-4A;<)<-7.0)5*)16
<0-
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$)014&):5)657>-,0-:-
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0)5*)).<-:01;.)>7=:1<-
Sylverton, one of the many colonial houses in Dalhousie
,)=/0<-:0)58)>)<1?07
4-/-6,;)A;;)+:1.1+-,0-:;-4.
Environs
<78:7>1,-?)<-:.7:<0-

;+-61+:7),<0:7=/0,-6;-
8):+0-,+1<A=:16/<0-$=1
Chamba district. 336 km (209 miles)
.7:-;<;7.816-,-7,):7)3
.-;<1>)4?75-6)6,+014,:-6
NW of Shimla.  7,400.  
07:;-+0-;<6=<)6,
;16/0-:8:)1;-;16<0-<7?6;
Geetanjali Hotel, near bus stand,
:07,7,-6,:764-),;<7<0-
5)6A<-584-;
(01899) 242 136.  daily. 
Kalatope Wildlife Sanctuary
*:1,/-7>-:<0-#)>1:1>-:
Summer Festival (Jun).
)*7=<35514-;-);<7.
4-),;=8<7<0-<7?6;1<=)<-,
)407=;1-'1<08:17:
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4)6-;!:1/16)44A+76+-1>-,); *7=< 35 
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878=4)<176:)<0-:<0)6);)
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Silver mask of
Parvati, Chamba <0-74,Akhand
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Kalatope
Wildlife
Sanctuary
0)5*);<7?-:16/;<76-
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For permission contact: Forest Depart<-584-;):-;75-7.<0-.16-;<
;+0774+0=:+0)6,<0-87;<
ment, Chamba. Tel (01899) 222 639.
16<0-:-/176%0-57;<
7..1+-):-;1<=)<-,D7..-:;
;8-+<)+=4):>1-?;7.<0-"1:
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;<)16-,/4);;?16,7?;)6,
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Images of deities on the walls of Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Chamba


  

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

         " #    $ 



0-:-<78):<1+18)<-16<0-
)66=)4 )615)0-;0()<:)
  %0-5)1657<7:
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Hillsides around Chamba ablaze with the colours of autumn
35 514-;)?)A16<0-
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=,014)4):/-<:1*=<):A7.<0- 0)=4),0): #)6/-<7<0-
 <0)<+758:1;-<0-
)6/:)&)44-A<7..-:;<0-
#)>1:1>-:0):57=:;5)16
78<1767.)476/-:?)43<7<0-
Lakshmi Narayan Temple
)<<:)+<1761;<0-.);+16)<16/
+7584-@<7<0-?-;<7.<0-
Chaurasi41<-:)44AC1/0<A
=44=&)44-A);?-447?6
0)=/)6!.<0-;-<0:--):-
7=:E Temple+7584-@*=14< <0-+7=:;-7.<0-#)>176<0-
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15)/-7.)3;051 ):)A)616 ;)16<;?07>1;1<-,
*:76B-15)/-7.$0)3<1->1
<0-5)16<-584-?);*:7=/0< 0):57=:%0-5)27:;0:16-; 1;)4;7?7:<0);<78
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<0-<-584-?)44;144=;<:)<-
):3)6)->1)6,)615)0-;0
5A<0747/1+)4;+-6-;);?-44); %0-16<:1+)<-?77,-6+):>16/;
76<0-<-584-416<-4;)6,<0-
)615)4)6,.47:)457<1.;
15)/-;7.<0-5)16,-1<1-;):-
 !<0-:<-584-;16+4=,-<0-
Madho Rai Temple6-):<0-
7=<;<)6,16/)6,1<1;;)1,<0)<
8)4)+-?1<0)*:76B-15)/-7. <0-;+=48<7:;0)6,;?-:-+=<
:1;06))6,.=:<0-:=8<0-
7..<78:->-6<015.:75:-841
Chamunda Temple
+)<16/;=+0:-5):3)*4-?7:3
/4158;-7.0)5*);:1+0
0-:1<)/-+)6*-;--6)<<0-
Environs
Bhuri Singh Museum;-<=816 $1<=)<-,)<)0-1/0<7. 
5

*A<0-316/7.0)5*))<  .<Manimahesh Lake
<0-<15-1;:):-+744-+<1767. 35 514-;.:75
5161)<=:-8)16<16/;.7:5-,<0- 0):57=:1;<0-):-);57;<
6=+4-=;7.<0-5=;-=5
;)+:-,4)3-);1<;074A?)<-:;
%7,)A1<0);).16-+744-+<176
):-*-41->-,<7+4-)6;-)44;16;
7.")0):18)16<16/; 
Well-preserved 10th-century
6=/=;< $-8<-5*-:
5=:)4;16;+:1*-,.7=6<)16
<07=;)6,;7.814/:15;+76>-:/- temples at Bharmour
;4)*;+):>-,;<76-8)6-4;)6,
7<0-:):<1.)+<;;=+0);0)5*)
CHAMBA RUMALS
 5-<)45);3;+788-:
0)5*)  -@9=1;1<-4A-5*:71,-:-,0)6,3-:+01-.;7:
84)<-;)6,;14>-:2-?-44-:A
+7>-:4-<;/-6-:)44A;9=):-16;0)8-?-:-=;-,8:15):14A<7
 Bhuri Singh Museum
?:)8/1.<;-1<0-:.7:<-584-7..-:16/;7:.7:+-:-5761)4
S of Chaughan. Tel (01899) 222
-@+0)6/-;,=:16/?-,,16/:1<=)4;<<15-;<0-A)4;7
590.  TueSun.
.7:5-,<0-+)6781-;,:)8-,
)*7>-,-1<1-;16<-584-;")4-
+747=:;;143<0:-),),7=*4-
;1,-,;)<16;<1<+0)6,)6

=6*4-)+0-,5=;416*);-?-:-<0-
.:)5-?7:3?1<016?01+016<:1+)<-
Chamba district. 64 km (40 miles)
+7587;1<176;16;81:-,*A,-41+)<-
SE of Chamba.   Manimahesh
")0):15161)<=:-;?-:-+:-)<-,
Yatra (Aug/Sep).
!:1/16)44A<0-?7:37.<0-4),1-;
7.<0-+7=:<<0-<0-5-;?-:-
%0-0):57=::-/176075-
:-41/17=;16<-:;8-:;-,?1<0)615)4
4)6,7.<0-;-51675),1+
)6,84)6<57<1.;)6,-6+47;-,
;0--80-:,16/),,1;)6,<0-
Hand-embroidered
?1<016.47:)4*7:,-:;
Chamba rumal
.1:;<+)81<)47.<0-0)5*)
:=4-:;;8:-),;)+:7;;);<--8

  



 

     '    " # % ' 

>2/Jagannathi Devi Temple+>


/526357 736/=>9>2/
89<>2+8.>2/Vishnu Temple
+>+C+< 57736/=>9
>2/A/=>'2/2?1/:C<+73.+6
Basheshwar Mahadev Temple

Brightly coloured tiger guarding the Jagannathi Devi Temple, Kullu

  

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+=+.3@38/,6/==381/@/8
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.3=>38->3@/?66?+=8?1
Kullu district. 240 km (149 miles) N
A9966/8-+:A3>2+-969?<0?6
of Shimla.  18,300.  Bhuntar,
?:>?<8/.06+:'2/A97/8
10 km (6 miles) S of Kullu town. 
A/+@/>23-5=2+A6=A3>2
 HP Tourism, near Maidan,
=><353811/97/><3-./=318=98
(01902) 222 349.  Dussehra
>2/3<,9<./<=+8.0/A@3=3>9<=
(Sep/Oct). Travel permits Contact
-+8</=3=>+-;?3<381>2/=/
Deputy Commisioner, (01902) 222 727.
+>><+->3@/:<9.?->=89A+
For more details see p115.
069?<3=238169-+638.?=><C
;?+66C+>><+->3@/+</>2/
'2/?66?)+66/C38-/8><+6
@366+1/29?=/=>2/3<=6+>/
Environs
37+-2+6$<+./=2A+>/</.
<990=<3=381+,9@/1<//8
,C>2//+=<3@/<2+=6981
Jalori Pass+,9?>
57
7/+.9A= Kullu>2/.3=><3->
,//8+=3>/90
2/+.;?+<>/<=
736/==9?>290?66?98>2/
2?7+82+,3>+
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+6>3>?./9+509</=>=+8.
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/+= '2/>9A8= 7/+.9A= '2/03<=>A+6519/=
2+,3>+,6/A9<6.G
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Typical geometric pattern on
F+8+:>
>2/ >2-/8>?<C 1<+.3/8>=>9>2/>+<890
./=-<3:>398A2/8 the border of a Kullu shawl Raghunath
&+<C96=+<57 736/=
Temple
98/-97:+</=
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8/312,9?<38123666/+.=>9>2/
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A29=/<3-26C+.9<8/.37+1/= :3->?</=;?/<?38=90+09<>
9<-2+<.=90>23=
57

6/+.>2/:<9-/==398=+>>2/
9--?:3/.,C>2/?<52+=38
736/6981@+66/CA3>2>2/
?==/2<+0/=>3@+66=9A9<>2 >2/ >2-/8>?<C
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 A23-23==/:+<+>/. /B:69<3813=>2/52+<+
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3=>2/6+<1/1<//89:/8
0+79?=?==/2<+0/=>3@+6
(8635/<3>3=2,?36>2366
=:+-/-+66/.Dhalpur
MaidanA2/</>2/
=>+>398=38>2/37+6+C+=
?66?</7+38/.?8589A8>9
-969?<0?6?==/2<+
>2/9?>=3./A9<6.?8>363>A+=
0/=>3@3>3/=>+5/:6+-/
E.3=-9@/</.G38>2/ 
=,C
8?7,/<90>/7:6/=
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-+<@381=+8.37:</==3@/
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2366=3./=-9@/</.A3>2
@3-383>C90?66?>9A8F
7+<34?+8+:6+8>= 
+=,C3>=1/8>6/,/+?>C >2/Vaishno Devi Cave
Shrine3=57 
=?:/<,79?8>+38@3=>+=+8.
736/=>9>2/89<>2/+=> A waterfall in Kullu Valley
+73+,6/:/9:6/'2/7/890
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

  !    

 $ %    & 



 
 

  

><+./+8.=/@/<+609</318
@3=3>9<=2+@/198/73==3810<97

>2/+</+>3=+.@3=+,6/>9
>+5/1?3./=+8.:9<>/<=+@+36 Kullu district. 205 km (127 miles) N of
+,6/0<97"+11+< 
Shimla, (via Jalori Pass). Entry points:
+8. Manikaran09<></5=38
Saing, Gushani.  Shamchi, 15 km
>23=</1398
(9 miles) S of Kullu, then jeep.  For
 '2/7+38=/>>6/7/8>38>2/ bookings & permits contact Director,
$+<@+>3)+66/C3=!+835+<+8
GHNP, Shamchi, (01902) 265 320. 
0+79?=09<3>=29>=:<381=>
3=+6=9>2/=>+<>381:938>09<+ '2/1</+>37+6+C+8 "+>398+6
$+<5-9@/<381+8+</+90
8?7,/<90></5=
=;57  =;736/=<+81/=
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7 
0>>9

7

0>+8.
=:<381==/<:/8>=>96/>2/
+,?>=>2/-96../=/<></139890
/+<<381=90$+<@+>3>2/
Hot springs in Manikaran, a
$38)+66/C"+>398+6
-98=9<>90 9<.&23@++8.
popular pilgrim spot
$+<5 '2/
.3=+::/+</.A3>2>2/7
@+<3/>C90069<++8.
38>9+.//:,?<<9A#8
A3>8/==381&23@+=>/<<3
0+?8+09?8.2/</

,6/+81/<>2/=8+5/
</:</=/8>=>2//8>3</
Kullu district. 180 km (112 miles)
A+=>99>/<<303/.>9
*/=>/<837+6+C+=@+=>
NE of Shimla (via Jalori Pass). 
<+81/90=?,><9:3-+6=:/-3/=
-97/9?>903>=296/
 HP Tourism, near Maidan, Kullu,
+6981A3>2+6:38/1<+==6+8.=
,?>7+8+1/.>9=89<>
(01902) 222 349.
+</-9@/</.A3>2/./6
>2//+<<381=9?>
Monal pheasant A/3==+8.9+509</=>=
>2<9?12>2//+<>2
'2/=-/83-$+<@+>3)+66/C
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>2?=-</+>381@/8>=
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37+6+C+8>+2<7?=5.//<
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03/6.=+8.+::6/9<-2+<.=
+8.>2//6?=3@/=89A6/9:+<.
,?,,6/9?>,+>22/</3=
.<+A=+838-</+=3818?7,/<
=+3.>9,/199.09<>2/,9.C 7981>2/

9..=:/-3/=90
90@3=3>9<=9A/@/<,/-+?=/ +8.>2/=9?6+8.69-+6:/9
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90366/1+67+<34?+8+-?6>3@+>398 :6/=97/>37/=,936<3-/38>2/ 538.=90:2/+=+8>
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8?7,/<90></55381><+36=
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</-/8>C/+<=1+38/.89>9<3/>C 8/B>>9+&3521?<.A+<+3=
D98/900/<=+89::9<>?83>C>9
+6A+C=>2<981/.A3>2=+.2?= /B:69</>2/:+<5
+=+-/8></09<>2/8+<-9>3-=


 

GATHERING OF THE GODS


?66?-/6/,<+>/=>2/0/=>3@+690?==/2<+A3>2?83;?/1?=>9669@/<8.3+
>23=0/=>3@+6-977/79<+>/=>2/./0/+>90>2/./7985381%+@+8+,C>2/19.
%+7++=>9<C</-9?8>/.38>2/38.?/:3-
8?66?
69-+6><+.3>398=+..>2/3<9A8:3;?+8-C>9>23=:+88.3+87C>2'2/=/
><+.3>398=9<3138+>/.38>2/ >2-/8>?<CA2/8>2/<?6/<+1+>&381238+.
@/<>/8>6C-+?=/.>2/./+>290+<+2738:<3/=>'9/B:3+>/23==382/
38=>+66/.>2/./3>C%+12?8+>2+838-+<8+>39890%+7+9823=>2<98/+8.
@9A/.>2+>>2/</+0>/<2/+8.23=./=-/8.+8>=A9?6.<?6/?66?986C+=
</1/8>='2/37+1/90>23=19.A+=,<9?12>+66>2/A+C0<97>2/296C
>9A890C9.2C+ >2/,3<>2:6+-/90 9<.%+7+<97>2/8
98/@/<C&/:>/7,/< #->9,/<%+12?8+>2E38@3>/=G+66>2/69-+619.=90
>2/@+66/C>9-/6/,<+>/?==/2<+38?66?'2/=/19.= 
90>2/7
38-6?./+.37,+>2/
:+><98./3>C90>2/
?66?<+4+=0<97!+8+63
 +8.+76?>2/ Image of Vashishtha
Devta, a local god
</318381./3>C90!+6+8+
A29+.7383=>/<=4?=>3-/@3+
>2/@366+1/:<3/=>'2/19.=+</-+<<3/.98
:+6+8;?38=0<97>2/3<9A8>/7:6/=+8.+<<3@/
+>>2/2+6:?<!+3.+838+-2//<0?6:<9-/==398
+--97:+83/.,C>2/0</8D3/.,/+>90.<?7=
"38/.+C=900/=>3@3>3/=09669AA2/8+>/7:9
<+<C7+<5/>3==/>?:A23-2=/66=/@/<C>2381
0<9769-+66C7+./=2+A6=+8.=29/=>9,<312>
6C2?/.:6+=>3->9C='2/1<+-/0?6.+8-/
:/<09<7/.+73.=>+69>900<3/8.6C<3@+6<C
,C=/@/<+669-+61<9?:=-+8+6=9,/A+>-2/.
Preparing for the Dussehra festival celebrations



        %   

! # % 


  
Kullu district. 281 km (175 miles) N of
Shimla.  6,300.   The Mall,
(01902) 253 531.  daily.  Winter
Carnival (Jan), Dhungri Mela (May).

"2,=>;.<:>.*7*52<2=>*=.-
*5870=1.@.<=+*748/=1.
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 8,*=.-
46
625.
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<*,;.-Hadimba Temple
<1*-.-+B*0;8?.8/<=*=.5B
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9*08-*<=B5.;88/@*<+>25=27

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Vashisht*;.929.-27=8
%>;42<1<=B5.+*=1<>;=1.;>9
=1.58?.5BSolang Valley

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=1.*;.*<8>=-88;*,=2?2=2.<
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8/1>6=2*7-=1.<6*55

The 16th-century wooden Hadimba Temple in Manali

.A*695.8/=;*-2=287*558,*5
*;,12=.,=>;.@2=1@*55<
,8698<.-8/*5=.;7*=.5*B.;<
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1.@7<=87.=,866*7-<*
/27.?2.@8/=1..*<'*55.B
Environs
.*;+B2<=1.Roerich Art
Rohtang Pass=1.
Gallery-2<95*B270
9.;258><9*<<,;8<<270
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 %1./2;<=,*92=*58/
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27=1.
=1,.7=>;B%1. *00*;
*<=5.+>25=27=1.
=1,.7=>;B  Roerich Art Gallery
2<78@*18=.5=2<*7.A,.55.7= Naggar.  daily. 
<78@/.-5*4.8/.*<>7 "*;*052-270*
989>5*;*,=2?2=B=*4.<95*,.87
=1.7.*;+B<589.<@12,1*5<8
*==;*,=<42.;<27=1.@27=.;

NICHOLAS ROERICH (18741947)

A tiny stream crisscrossing the


lush landscape around Manali

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 2<85-186.2<78@
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$?B*=8<5*?*5<8*9*27=.;6*-.
A mountainscape by
7-2*12<186.*<@.55
Roerich

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6924 and pp7223

         " #    $ 



 
  
Lahaul and Spiti district. 610 km (379
miles) N from Shimla to Keylong via
Kunjam Pass.  33,200. 
 Ladarcha Festival, Spiti (Aug).

=*7*5=2=>-.8/  6


 /=*1*>5*7-$92=2
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*7-7.201+8>;270>55>
Keylong=1.-2<=;2,=1.*-
:>*;=.;<87=1.1*0*;2?.;

The meandering Chenab river, near Gondhla village

2<=1.;.0287<9;27,29*5=8@7 -8627*=.<=1.5*7-<,*9.%1.
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Detail of a prayer
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Suraj Tal, the glacial lake that is the source of Bhaga river, one of the main rivers in Lahaul



        #      ! # 

    
 
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Bare multi-hued rock faces, a typical


feature of the Spiti area


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Minor road

0 km
0 miles

25
25

The land of the ibex and the snow


leopard,"#'%%1,#('%*$

#+'-',*&&%%)+,-*%'#',"
+"(/( .#*!#'+'(/)))$+,
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Chorten at a village in Pin Valley

        

!    " 



Vibrant mural showing a scene from Buddhist mythology, Tabo Monastery

Dhankar,"(%)#,%( 

)#,##+/!,/',"
)#''%+( *2(*+"*)+)-*
( *-&%#'!*($'%$%#'
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Children in Spiti

An impressive image of
Guru Padmasambhava

(.*#'!(%% #+,"
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 +,*-,-*+*#,,(
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5)3-#)*776-7.<0-57;<
Lahaul and Spiti district. 460 km (286 ;1/61.1+)6<):<<:-);=:-;7.<0-
#1*-<)6=,,01;<?7:4,#0-
miles) NE of Shimla.   AprSep.
-):41-;<8)16<16/;16<0-
 Monastery Festival (Oct/Nov).
-$"'!);;-5*4A0)44):-
Travel permits required to travel
.:75<0-
<0)6,

<0+-6
between Tabo and Jangi (in Kinnaur).
<=:1-;)6,,-81+<;+-6-;.:75
Contact Deputy Commisioner, Shimla
(see p111), or SDMs office in Rekong >):17=;16+1,-6<;)6,<)4-;
);;7+1)<-,?1<0<0-41.-7.
Peo (see p118). For details see p115.
<0-=,,0)#0-0)44)4;7+76
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Fields of buckwheat in the Sangla Valley (see pp11819)

       

     



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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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Buddhist monks in Ladakh blowing conch shells to announce the beginning of prayers



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ACCLIMATIZING
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

            &      $    #

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 daily.  Book in advance. 
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 daily.  Book in advance.
/(09(=<(9+0(56-;/,
 Ecological Centre
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 MonFri. Tel (01982) 253 221.

Environs
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Jokhang
 daily.
Sankar Monastery
 daily. 
Spituk Monastery
 daily.   with permission of
the lama-in-charge.
Phiyang Monastery
 daily.   with permission of
the lama-in-charge.

Spituk Monasterys labyrinth of shrines linked by narrow passages



FESTIVALS OF
LADAKH, JAMMU &
KASHMIR
Hemis Festival ##
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Sindhu Darshan $ 


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Monks dancing in the courtyard of


Lamayuru Monastery

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See also features on Little Tibet (p123), Buddhist Iconography (p141), and In the Buddhas Footsteps (p221).

            #      !   



Stok Palace, residence of Ladakhs erstwhile royal family

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Ladakh district. 14 km (9 miles)


S of Leh.   Leh Tourist Office,
(01982) 242 010.  Stok Monastic
Festival (Feb/Mar). Stok Palace 
MayOct.  

Ladakh district. 15 km (9 miles)


SE of Leh.   Leh Tourist Office,
(01982) 252 297.  Shey Shrubla
(1st week of Sep).
Shey Palace  daily. 

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A Ladakhi couple bringing their


baby to be blessed at Shey

BUDDHIST SECTS IN LADAKH


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Hemis Festival (Jun).
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Dance of the Oracle at the 16thcentury Matho Monastery

  


Leh district. 30 km (19 miles) SE of
Leh.   daily.   Annual
Matho Festival (Feb/Mar).

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The giant thangka unfurled during the festival at Hemis Monastery

THE MONASTIC DANCE-DRAMAS OF LADAKH


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(;&+$1*(1(:6$1'9,(:6
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

            "     

   



 
 
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See also features on Little Tibet (p123) and In the Buddhas Footsteps (p221).

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agent along specific tour routes. For
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A Ladakhi horseman taking a
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Tso Moriri, a breeding ground for


  

the great crested grebe


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

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TIPS FOR DRIVERS


Length: 195 km (121 miles).
Getting around: This tour takes
three days. Diskit, Hundar and
Panamik have guesthouses and
camps, for overnight stay.
Travel permits: Visitors must
obtain an Inner Line Permit from
the Deputy Commissioner, Leh,
(01982) 252 010, to travel in
the Nubra region. Permits are
granted only to groups of four
or more, and should be carried
all the time.

YO K

Khardung-la 1

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Tour route

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

STAR FEATURES

 Sumstek
 Dukhang

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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Leh district. 70 km (44 miles) W of
Leh on the Leh-Kargil Highway.
  Leh Tourist Office, (01982)
252 297.  daily.  
Book ahead for a guide from Leh.
Alchi village has accommodation
as well as restaurants with toilet
facilities.

Chortens%106#+0+0)

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Entrance

 
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Riders, Central Asian in appearance, on the Avalokitesvara image

THE FIVE BUDDHAS OF MEDITATION


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?..2++8.>2/7+8.+6+=2/6:
Mandala with the
./@9>//=>97/.3>+>/98>2/7
Five Dhyani Buddhas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

One of the many prayer rooms


in Alchi Monastery

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?..2+:</+-2381

         

'      % 

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Kargil district. 190 km (118 miles)
NW of Leh.   Kargil Tourist
Office, (01985) 232 721.

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View of the Nun-kun massif from Suru Valley

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+6:38/069A/<=38?8/+8.?6C

Kargil district. 19 km (12 miles) S of


Kargil.  to Sankhu.

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The 8-m (26-ft) high Maitreya


Buddha at Mulbekh

 
Kargil district. 230 km (143 miles) NW
of Leh and NE of Srinagar.  
Kargil Tourist Office, (01985) 232 721.
 Muharram (Mar/Apr), Ladakh
Festival (Sep). Travel permits are
required for the Dha-Hanu region,
available at Leh (see p142).

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A+==>3669:/8&2/7+49<3>C90
+<136=:9:?6+>398+</%23+

Prehistoric rock paintings in the


Suru Valley

THE DARDS
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@366+1/=+>2++8?/+=>90+<13698
>2/ 8.?=-69=/>9A2/</>2/<3@/<
A Dard in his
6/+@/= +.+5209<+6>3=>+8#+53=>+8
distinctive cap

A view of the dramatically-situated Phugtal Monastery (see p151) in Zanskar



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/0=4A0>1=:8?30
2=,9/0@=:14?>
7,9/>.,;0>?30
Kargil district. 110 km (68 miles) SE
>48;74.4?D:1741049
of Kargil.   Kargil Tourist
4?>A477,20>,9/
Office, (01985) 232 721.
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Gelugpa Monastery4>-@47?
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Kargil district. 230 km (143 miles) SE
>;,.0&30
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from Kargil to Padum.  to Padum.
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 Padum Tourist Office, (01983) 254 =024:9,=08:>?7D
Pensi-la


017.  Karsha Monastery Festival
8  1?,-:@?
,2=4.@7?@=,71,=80=>
(Jul/Aug).

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Stucco decoration and images in bas-relief at Sani Gompa, Zanskar
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

         

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Fertile fields of barley and wheat in the Stod Valley in Zanskar

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 Sani, Karsha, Stongde,
Bardhan and Phugtal
Monasteries

Phugtal Monastery, built into a sheer cliff-face

 daily. 



                

 

    
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Duration: 10 days
Altitude: 5,000 m (16,404 ft)
Level of difficulty: tough

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Duration: 10 days
Altitude: 5,100 m (16,732 ft)
Level of difficulty: moderate

Rafting down the Indus river on


rubber dinghies, a popular sport

-JOHTIFU

4IJOHPMB
 N GU

OTHER OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES


White-water rafting0/5)&/%64"/%!"/4,"33*7&34
*4"1016-"3"$5*7*5:'30.6-:50.*%&15&.#&3)&3&
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/&$,&%$3"/&4"/%5)&&$)"*#&5"/8*-%"44

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

%BSDIB

           

         



PRACTICAL TIPS


&#-(*-.+*+/',., &.#$-  &( ($' +.#
,/)-'*)".# )/-,$0 ,.#,*/"#,&#'' 2+-.
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. ($-*)-. ,24&&1

Duration: 8 days
Altitude: 5,274 m (17,303 ft)
Level of difficulty: easy
Rafting53*140/5)&
/%64"3&03("/*;&%#:
-0$"-"(&/$*&4

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Be prepared: Most of the walking


is hard, and it is imperative to be
well acclimatized to the altitude,
as even the bottoms of river
gorges are 3,000 m (9,843 ft)
above sea level. For tips on
altitude sickness, see p767.
Guides and ponies are essential
for all treks in the region. Maps
are insufficient, so dont wander
off on your own as it could prove
fatal. For more details on
trekking see p751.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Do not litter; carry all
rubbish back with you. Plastics
can be taken to the Ecology
Centre (01982) 253 221 in Leh.
Carry cooking fuel. Never burn
wood, which is a scarce resource.
Permits: Permits are required for
the Nubra Valley, Pang-gong Tso,
Tso Moriri and the Dha-Hanu
region (see p142). For general
details on permits see p758.
Equipment, jeep hire and
operators: Dreamland Trek &
Tours in Leh, (01982) 252 089
hires out trekking gear. Rafting
agencies include Indus Himalayan
Explorers (01982) 253 454 and
Rimo Expeditions (01982) 253
348. Jeeps are expensive and can
be hired from Leh for trips to
Nubra (see p143) and the lakes.
Check the price list at the taxi
stand. For more details see p755.

1VHB

Leh to Tso Moriri*4"

5TP,BS

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KEY
Spituk to Hemis
Likir to Tingmosgang
Lamayuru to Alchi
Padum to Lamayuru
Padum to Darcha
Leh to Tso Moriri
Minor road
Peak

Tso Kar or White Lake, lying northwest of Tso Moriri

Pass

20



        &    ! " $ & 

CAUTION
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Chashmashahi Nishat+8.

Shalimar Gardens,9@/
Mosque+8.>2/Mosque of

 

  

Srinagar district. 700 km (435 miles)


NW of Delhi.  895,000.
8 km
(5 miles) S of city centre.  J&K
Tourism, (0194) 245 2690.  Miladul-Nabi (May).

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The impressive ruins of the 8th-century Sun Temple at Martand

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6945 and pp7234

         

'      % 

 $




 
Srinagar district. 96 km (60 miles)
E of Srinagar.  J&K Tourism,
Pahalgam Tourist Office, (01936) 243
224.

Srinagar district. 58 km (36 miles) W


of Srinagar.  J&K Tourism,
Gulmarg Tourist Office, (01954) 254
439.

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Mustard fields surrounding a


farmhouse in Pahalgam

A house in Gulmarg, one of Indias few ski resorts

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 Chashmashahi Garden
 daily. 
 Nishat and Shalimar

Gardens
 daily.


 

HOUSEBOATS AND SHIKARAS


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Houseboats and shikaras on Dal Lake

CENTRAL
INDIA

INTRODUCING CENTRAL INDIA 158165


UTTAR PRADESH & UTTARANCHAL 166211
BIHAR & JHARKHAND 212225
MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH
226255



          

     
  
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A view of the cenotaphs of the Orchha rulers, lying along the Betwa river

The glowing pastoral landscape of rural Kumaon near Mukteshwar (see p190), in the Western Himalayas

                      

GETTING AROUND
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Agra district. 223 km (139 miles)


SE of Delhi.  1,160,000.
Kheria, 8 km (5 miles) NE of city
centre. Agra Cantonment,
(0562) 236 8598; Raja ki Mandi,
(0562) 235 4477; Fort.  Idgah,
(0562) 236 4557.  UPTDC, 64
Taj Rd, (0562) 236 0517; ITDC,
191 Mall Rd, (0562) 222 6368.
 Kailash Fair (Aug/Sep).

 Fort Railway Station


Tel (0562) 236 4131.

John Hessings tomb in the


Roman Catholic Cemetery

0 metres

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Key to Symbols see back flap



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The colonnaded arches of the Diwan-i-Aam, the hall used for the emperors public audiences

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A riverside view of the Jahangiri


Mahal, the emperors main harem

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Khwajasaras Tomb
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A view of the 17th-century tomb


of Firoz Khan Khwajasara

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

 Marble Screen
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VISITORS CHECKLIST

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Tajganj. Tel (0562) 233 0496.


 6am7pm SunThu.
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1 km (0.6 miles) N of Itimad-udDaulahs Tomb.  daily. 
 Rambagh
3 km (2 miles) N of Itimad-ud-Daulahs
Tomb.  daily.  free on Fri.

  



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STAR FEATURES

 Marble Screens
 Tomb Chamber
 Pietra Dura
Riverside pavilion at Rambagh
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

 

  
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
The dome4&1%&10

E bank of Yamuna. 4 km
(2 miles) upstream from the
Taj Mahal.  sunrisesunset
daily. 

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Mathura district. 62 km (39 miles)
NW of Agra.  299,000. 
Old Bus Stand, (0565) 240 6468.

Holi (Mar), Hariyali Teej (Jul),


Janmashtami (Jul/Aug), Kansa Vadha
(Sep), Annakut (Sep/Oct).

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Vishram Ghat at Mathura, where every evening at sunset oil lamps are floated on the river
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

$ # #  ! 

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FESTIVALS OF
UTTAR PRADESH &
UTTARANCHAL
International Yoga Week

Government Museum
Dampier Nagar. Tel (0565) 250 0847.
 TueSun. public hols. 
 extra charges.

 


Mathura district. 68 km (42 miles)
N of Agra.   daily.
Holi
(Mar), Rath ka Mela (Mar), Hariyali
Teej (Jul), Janmashtami (Jul/Aug).

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Entrance

  


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

                     



VISITORS CHECKLIST

  
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Jodha Bais
Palace

Sunehra
Makan

Agra district. 37 km (23 miles)


W of Agra.  UPTDC, 64 Taj Rd,
Agra, (0562) 236 0517.  daily.
    extra charges for
video photography.

Birbals
House



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STAR SIGHTS

 Turkish Sultanas
House

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 Diwan-i-Khas

PLAN OF FATEHPUR SIKRI


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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

                     



  
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Pilgrims taking a dip in the holy Ganges at Haridwar

 

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Haridwar district. 214 km (133 miles) 4+9-*.7&3(*89478&3)+479-*.7
N of Delhi.    GMVN Tourist
4<3*=5.&9.43)*243897&9*
Office, Rahi Motel (01334) 228 686.
9-*.7)**5+&.9-.39-*54<*7
 Kumbh Mela (every 12 years;
4+9-*7.;*7!-*2&.3,-&9
FebMar), Ardh Kumbha Mela (every 6 Har-ki-Pauri.83&2*)&+9*7&
years; FebMar), Haridwar Festival
8:5548*).257.394+#.8-3:8
(Oct), Dussehra (Sep/Oct).
+**9&99-*8.9*:3)7*)8
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Kangri University&
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'*1.*;*7*2&.38*;*7+7*8-

 


Haridwar district. 238 km (148 miles)
N of Delhi.   GMVN Tourist
Office Muni-ki-Reti, (0135) 243 1793.
 International Yoga Week (Feb).

!-.89<.3(.9>4+&7.)<&7
8.9:&9*)&99-*(43+1:*3(*4+
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&08-2&3-:1&

YOGA: THE ANCIENT PATH TO HOLISTIC HEALTH


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A woman performing an asana
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

" ! !        

    " ! !        



   
  
742 *59*2'*79457.19-*&3,*88<411*3'>
9-*24384437&.384+9-*:55*7(&9(-2*39&7*&8
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9-74:,-9-.8;&11*>4+9-*8&,*8<-48*&8-7&28
3*891*.39-*8:774:3).3,+47*898&143,9-*-41>7.;*7

The Ganges flowing serenely


through a forested valley

'!.'/42)

$EVPRAYAG

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:2'&.5742*3&)* 
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 4HREE"LIND-ICE

GES 

'

AN

Marine Drive 2

Kaudiyala 1

4HE7ALL

'OLF#OURSE

Shivpuri 3

3*4+9-*24898(*3.((&25
8.9*8 -.;5:7.&184-&89-*
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(!2)$7!2

KEY
Tour route
Brahmapuri 4

!-.8(&25.8&1849-*
14(&9.434+&3&8-7&243*
4+2&3>&143,9-*&3,*8

Road
River
 Viewpoint
 Rapids
 Camp

Lakshman Jhula 5

24)*738:85*38.43'7.),*
 &(74889-*&3,*8
7*51&(*)9-*41)745*'7.),*
.3
!-.81.*8&99-*3479-
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4++*78+.3*;.*<84+9-*7.;*7

TIPS FOR RAFTERS

Rishikesh 6

3&3(.*3985.7.9:&1(*397*
.8-.0*8-.88*7*3*1>14(&9*)
439-*'&3084+9-*&3,*8
&2.)1:8-<44)*)-.118

10

0 km
0 miles

Length: 36 km (22 miles).


Getting around: Rafting can
be done over two or three days,
with night halts at camps
situated at Kaudiyala, Marine
Drive, Shivpuri and Brahmapuri.
A shorter tour of the same
stretch can also be done in
one day. For organized tours,
tour operators and equipment
hire (see p755).



 

% #    

  

The faade of the Forest Research Institute, Dehra Dun, established in 1914

  

 


*7-87.8/><<88;2.<
.*;52.<=;.<2-.7=<%1.=8@7<
Dehra Dun district. 256 km (159
Uttarkashi district. 35 km (22 miles)
<6*55 %2+.=*7,866>72=B2<
<.==5.-27Happy Valley,58<.
miles) NE of Delhi.  447,800. 
N of Dehra Dun.  26,000. 
 Uttaranchal Tourist Bureau, The
Jolly Grant, 24 km (15 miles) SE of
=8 87?.7=255%1. Tibetan
town centre.    GMVN,
Mall, (0135) 263 2663.
Market+.58@%1.*55<.55<
74/1, Rajpur Road, (0135) 274 7898.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

& % %  #  " #    $     & % %  # 

   



   

 
Uttarkashi and Chamoli districts. 148
km (92 miles) N from Rishikesh to
Uttarkashi.   Uttaranchal Tourist
Bureau, Uttarkashi, (01374) 274 761.

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backed by the Bhagirathi peaks



   # !        



   
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(BSIXBM
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655"3"/$)"-

655"313"%&4)

LOCATOR MAP
Areas shown below

    
'(1
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(4$0 -&$1 +.-& - -"($-2/(+&0(,20 (+
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Duration: 6 days
Altitude: 4,500 m (14,764 ft)
Level of Difficulty: moderate to tough
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Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,024 m (9,921 ft)
Level of Difficulty: easy

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TIPS FOR WALKERS


Be prepared: Acclimatization is
essential for altitudes over 3,000 m
(9,843 ft). See p767 for information on altitude sickness. For longer
routes, guides are necessary. For
more details on trekking see p751.
On the trek: Drink plenty of
water. Carry a first aid kit and
cooking fuel. Never burn wood,
which is a scarce resource. Put
out all fires properly, leaving no
burning embers. Do not litter, and
carry your rubbish back with you.
Permits: In Garhwal, travel
permits are required for border
areas which can be obtained from
the District Magistrates Office in
Uttarkashi, (01374) 222 280 or
the GMVN, Rishikesh, (0135) 243
1793. No permits are required for
Kumaon. For more information
see p758.
Equipment hire & operators:
In Garhwal, contact Mount
Support in Uttarkashi, GMVN
(0135) 243 1793, in Rishikesh,
GMVN (0135) 274 7898, for trekking assistance; in Dehra Dun (see
p186), contact Garhwal Tours and
Trekking, (0135) 248 0799. In
Kumaon, Parbat Tours in Nainital,
(05942) 235 656, and the Nainital
Mountaineering Club, (05942)
235 057, organize treks. For more
details see p755.

  
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Duration: 6 days
Altitude: 4,268 m (14,003 ft)
Level of Difficulty: tough
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Duration: 3 days
Altitude: 3,352 m (10,997 ft)
Level of Difficulty: moderate

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Level of Difficulty: tough

NANDA DEVI SANCTUARY


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Nainital district. 322 km (200 miles)
NE of Delhi.  Kathgodam, 35 km
(22 miles) S of Nainital, then taxi
or bus.   KMVN, Om Park,
(05942) 231 436.

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for boating and water sports

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Almora district. 385 km (239 miles)
NE of Delhi.   Tourist
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
Pauri Garhwal & Nainital districts.
436 km (271 miles) NW of Lucknow. Entry points: Dhangarhi &
Kalagarh.  Ramnagar, 20 km
(12 miles) S of Dhangarhi. 
 For bookings and permits
contact Ramnagar, (05947)
251 225.  NovJun.  
 extra charges for video. 

  
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Lakhimpur-Kheri district. 220 km
(137 miles) N of Lucknow. Entry
point: Palia.  For
bookings contact Field Director,
Dudhwa, (05872) 252 106.
 15 Nov15 June.   extra
charges. Jeeps available.

 

% #    

  

  
Rampur district. 310 km (193 miles)
NW of Lucknow.  281,500. 

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:<*/(:-0:/05.,(.3,:(5+0)0: >(99069(5*,:;9@(9,=0:0)3,05 NW of Lucknow.  667,700.

 

  Numaish (Feb).

Swamp deer, also known as barasingha, in Dudhwas grasslands


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Jhansi district. 301 km (187 miles)
SW of Lucknow.  383,200. 
UP Tourism, Shivpuri Rd, (0517)
244 1267.  Jhansi Festival (Feb).

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 Archaeological Museum
 TueSun.
2nd Sat.  
extra charges for video photography.

  
Kanpur district. 79 km (49 miles) SW
of Lucknow.  2,532,100. 

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The ramparts of Shankar Fort at Jhansi, stormed by British forces in 1858

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RANI LAKSHMIBAI OF JHANSI


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Stained-glass window in the All


Souls Memorial Church, Kanpur



   % #        

 
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Sikander Baghs stately gateway,
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Gardens and Research Centre

View of the Tomb of Khurshid Zadi,


Qaiser Bagh

 Qaiser Bagh Palace


Qaiser Bagh.  daily.

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The British Residency before it was destroyed during the siege of 1857

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Lucknow district. 516 km (321


miles) E of Delhi.  1,917,000.
Amausi, 15 km (9 miles) SW
of Lucknow   Regional
Tourist Office, 10 Station Road,
(0522) 263 8105.  Muharram
(Mar/Apr).

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VISITORS CHECKLIST

 Bara Imambara
Hussainabad.  daily.
during
Muharram (Mar/Apr). 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

& % %  #  " #    $     & % %  # 

   



 
Jaunpur district. 60 km (37 miles)
SE of Lucknow.  160,000.  

The colourful Hanuman Garhi Temple in Ayodhya

  
Faizabad district. 134 km (83 miles)
E of Lucknow.   Kartik Purnima
(Oct/Nov).

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The grand faade of the Jami


Masjid in Jaunpur

A view of the Taj Mahal (see pp1725) from across the Yamuna river, Agra



  

        

 
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

50
50

Bhadaini
Ghat

!      



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Varanasi district. 286 km (178
miles) SE of Lucknow. 
2,000,000.  22 km (14 miles)
NW of the city.   
Parade Kothi, (0542) 220 8162,
Varanasi Junction Station, (0542)
234 6370.  daily.  Shivratri
(Feb/Mar), Ramlila (Sep/ Oct),
Ganga Festival (Oct/Nov).


 
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Harishchandra
Ghat

Rana Mahal
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Munsi
Ghat

Ahilyabai
Ghat

     
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

      

   
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Bhairavi Ghat

Mir
Ghat

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50
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BOAT RIDES
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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The creeper-covered ramparts of Allahabad Fort, built by the Mughal emperor Akbar

  

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Tourist Bungalow, 35 MG Marg,


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 Anand Bhavan
 TueSun. 
 Allahabad Museum
 TueSun. 
The tombs of Prince Khusrau and his sister, Khusrau Bagh
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp6957 and pp7246

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Environs
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The remains of mud and brick


ramparts at Kausambi

Chitrakoots Ramghat, with temples on the banks of the Mandakini river


 


 

Banda district. 128 km (80 miles) SW


of Allahabad. Karwi, 8 km (5
miles) NE of town centre, then taxi or
bus. 
UPSTDC Tourism
Bungalow, (05198) 224 219.  daily.

Banda district. 190 km (118 miles)


W of Allahabad. Banda, 53 km
(33 miles) N of Kalinjar Fort, then taxi
or bus.   daily.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

    %       %    ! 



VISITORS CHECKLIST
Patna district. 1,015 km (631
miles) E of Delhi.  1,377,000.

7 km (4 miles) W of the city


centre.  Bihar
Tourism, JP Loknayak Bhavan,
Fraser Rd, (0612) 222 5411. 
MonSat.  Patliputra
Mahotsava (Mar).

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The magnificent 16th-century tomb of the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Sur at Sasaram

 

  

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

    $       $    ! 




 

Vaishali district. 55 km (34 miles) N
of Patna.   Tourist Information
Centre, Vaishali (06225) 284 425.

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Tel (06344) 222 430.  daily.

  
Deoghar district. 180 km (112 miles)
E of Patna.    Tourist
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Nalanda district. 90 km (56 miles)
S of Patna.  from Patna. 
Bihar Tourism, Nav Nalanda,
near bus station.  daily. 
Museum  SatThu. 

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

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 Buddha Jayanti (May).


 
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Giridih district. 179 km (111 miles)
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 Madhuban.

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Hazaribagh district. 107 km (66 miles)
N of Ranchi.
Hazaribagh Rd
Station, 67 km (42 miles) S of Pokharia,
the main entry point, then bus. 
 Tourist Office, near bus stand,
Hazaribagh town, located 16 km (10
miles) S of Pokharia. For permission
contact Divisional Forest Officer,
Hazaribagh, (06546) 22 3340.

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En route to Netarhat, through the picturesque Chhota Nagpur Plateau

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=/:./4:.+6'81

   
   

entry point.   Tourist Office,


Betla, (06562) 25 6513. For permits
contact the Deputy Director, Palamau
National Park, Daltonganj. Jeeps are
available at Betla.

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Watchtower in the Hazaribagh Wildlife Sanctuary


For hotels and restaurants in this region see p697 and p726

    
Palamau district. 156 km (97 miles)
W of Ranchi. 

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Environs
Hundru Falls 13

Fields on the outskirts of Ranchi

  
Ranchi district. 289 kms (180 miles)
E of Patna.  846,500.  5 km
(3 miles) S of town centre.

 Birsa Vihar Tourist Complex, Main
Rd, (0651) 230 1230.  daily. 
Rath Yatra (Jun/Jul).

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 Tourist Information Centre,


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Bistupur, (0657) 243 2892.  
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FESTIVALS OF BIHAR
& JHARKHAND
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Sculptures of apsaras (celestial nymphs) inside the 10th-century Lakshman Temple at Khajuraho



 

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The Durbar Hall of Jai Vilas Palace


with its two gigantic chandeliers

 

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Gwalior district. 321 km (200 miles)


S of Delhi.  827,000.  14 km
(8 miles) N of city centre.

 TO Hotel Tansen, MG Rd (0751)
223 4557.  Tansen Music Festival
(Oct/Nov).

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Exploring Gwalior Fort

The lavishly carved and decorated


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The strikingly ornamental faade of Gwalior Fort



 

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!'2!

Pawaya 2

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Sonagiri 3

IN

$ABRA

D

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3

Jhansi 5


Datia 4

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# 6 / % & - , ) " / %
 "
E

A
TW


KEY



Tour route
Other roads

+(!*52!(/

River
Orchha 6
0 km
0 miles

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20
10

TIPS FOR DRIVERS


Length: 120 km (75 miles).
Stopping-off points: Gwalior,
Sonagiri, Datia, Jhansi, Orchha
and Taragram provide convenient
stopovers. There is a petrol pump
at Dabra, after Gwalior. State
tourism hotels and guesthouses
are available at Gwalior, Datia,
Jhansi and Orchha. Local buses
run between the major stops.

Taragram 7

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0)6,5),-8)8-:
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