Textile Internship

Report
Raymond, Vapi

Submitted by:
Charu Bhatia
Manish Singh
Saket Saurabh
Sonal Jain
Mentored by:
Mr. T.S. Prakash

Acknowledgement
The internship opportunity we had with Raymond, Vapi was a great chance for our
learning and professional development. We are grateful to our institute, NIFT Mumbai, for
providing us with this opportunity and to Raymond, Vapi for letting us work at their
esteemed organization.
We express our deepest gratitude and special thanks to Benjamin Hembrom sir and
Ruhama Kachhap maam from the HR department, who took out time to hear and guide
us.
We also express our deepest thanks to the HODs and mentors from all the departments
for their careful and precious guidance which were extremely valuable for our study both
theoretically and practically.
We perceive this opportunity as a big milestone in our career development.
Thanking you
Charu Bhatia
Manish Singh
Saket Saurabh
Sonal Jain

Objective of the Internship:

To learn about the entire textile manufacturing chain, right from fiber to finished fabric so that we can
comprehend the practical aspects of the concepts which we learn in the classroom.

Company Profile:
Name of the Company :
Address

Raymond, Vapi

N. H. No. 8, At Khadki, Po. Udwada, Tal. Pardi, Dist.

Valsad. Vapi.. P.C. 396185, Vapi, Daman.

Phone
Fax
Product Type

:
:

+91-260-6611400

+91-260-6611700
:

Manufacture and supply of suiting fabric

Introduction

Raymond is the worlds largest producer of worsted suiting fabrics, commanding over
60% market share in India.
It has increased its worsted suiting capacity by 14 million meters, as part of the second
developmental phase of the Vapi plant.
The Vapi plant has been set up on 112 acres of lush green land with hi-tech machinery,
such as warping equipment from Switzerland, weaving machines from Belgium, finishing
machines, automatic drawing-in and other machines from Italy.

The processes taking place in the unit are explained sequentially in the following pages.

Process Flow
The processes taking place in the unit are as follows:

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Designing

Date

: June 9, 2015.

H.O.D. (Mentor)

: Mr. M. R. Patil

The designing department supplies patterns for the production of fabrics for the
upcoming season.
The cycle of design development can be divided according to the following seasons:

Summer Season
Winter Season

Fairs take place in Milan and Paris, which forecast the upcoming trends. These fairs take
place in the month of February for the upcoming winter season, and in July for the
approaching summer season.
Milan : Milano Unique Fair
Paris

: Premiere Vision Fair

After this, designers from all Raymond units gather together for a 3-day event in India,
and follow the subsequent itenary:

Development of the Colour Story

Preparation of the Design Story
Making of the Garment Story
Technical service (determining technical details of count, TPI, twist direction, etc.)
Generation of New Cloth Card for Feeler and Sectional Sample.
Making a Query Module based on market, country, season, sample type, sample
instruction number, etc.

Market Segment of Customers

At Raymond, the customers are divided into the following segments:

Civil
Exotics
RAL (Raymond Apparel Limited)
Exclusives
Institutional
Exports

Approximately 1000 qualities and 7000 shades of fabric are developed per season.
The production process for a particular season starts approximately 6 months prior to
that season.

Approximate bookings for each season:

1,10,00,000 meters of fabric in winters

90,00,000 meters in summers.

These bookings are made by franchisee owners, independent buyers, retailers, etc.

The possible booking lengths are:

Suit length
Piece length
Jacketing length
Coat length

: 3.25 metres
: 15 metres
: 9 metres
: 2.1 metres

The minimum order quantity that must be placed before production commences:

700 - 800 metres for Civil, Stock Lot, Institutional qualities.

500 metres for Export quality
200 metres for Exotic quality.

Functions of the design department are:

Present new collection for export and domestic market every six months
Review existing colour range
Introduce new colours though creativity and technology
Develop new structures
Control inventory
Plan twist, weave and finish for optimising product value and product efficiency.

Sampling
Date : June 9, 2015
Mentor

: Subhash Chandra Behera

The process of sampling starts after the dyed top is received. A minimum of 10 kg of
fiber is processed in this sampling unit. The order quantity generally ranges from 40 100 kg.
The following processes take place in this section:

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Blending of the required fabrics takes place in the following machines:

All-wool fabric : Gill box

Poly-wool

: De-felter

For shade checking, the sample is sent to the dyeing department. The further processes
are carried out once the shade obtained after blending, has been approved.
The fabric, once woven, is sent to the mending department for correction of faults. After
this, the fabric is sent to the buyer for approval and for the initiation of the production of
bulk orders.

Total number of machines:

Comber

:2

Gill Box

:6

FM Machine (for roving)

:1

Ring frames (for spinning)

: 14

Auto-coner machine

:1

(making bigger cones, removal of yarn faults)

Ply winding Machine

:1

Warping Machine

:6

Rapier Weaving Machine (Pinacol Gama)

: 16

Auto Drawing Machine

:2

Knotting Machine

:1

Scouring and Combing

Date

: 1st June, 2015

HOD

: Mr. Shriram Ranade

Two categories of raw materials were being brought into the storage room:

Greasy wool imported from various farms located in Australia and South
Africa.
Polyester tow supplied to the unit by Reliance Industries Ltd.

Processing of Wool
High quality Merino wool with thickness ranging from 16.5 to 24.5 microns and
costing between 10 AUD/kg to 14.5 AUD/kg (inclusive of material and
transportation).
This material is then processed in the ANDAR scouring line. The machine, which
has been imported from New Zealand, costs around 18 crores.
The following sequence takes place in this machine:

Homogeneous Mixing: 20 bales from different farms are mixed evenly to

ensure consistency in quality across the lot.

Opening: The wool is carried up an inclined conveyor belt, which leads to

a roller that opens up the fibers. The opened fibers are led to the next
chamber, while the unopened ones drop on the inclined surface for reopening.

Cleaning: This is carried out in two steps:

o
o

Beating: To remove dry dust.

Scouring: 6-bowl scouring machine is put to use here. The first
three bowls serve the primary process of scouring using detergent,
while the other three are for rinsing the wool. Cranks and falls
penetrate the wool for even scouring. A roller is present at the end
of each bowl that squeezes out excess water.
Temperature of the bowls:
First bowl - 65C
Second bowl - 62C
Third bowl - 60C
Fourth bowl - 56C
Fifth bowl - 56C
Sixth bowl - 50C
The dust accumulated in the process is collected in dust bowls
present on the side of the respective bowls.

Drying: The temperature of the drying chamber ranges from 70 to 75C.

Opening

Collection: The scoured wool is collected through ducting line into four
bins present in the grey combing section. Anti-static and lubricating
chemicals (SELBANA 4554 V, SELBANA 3001) are sprayed in this duct.

Daily production capacity: 12-13 tons

Grey Combing

Ambient Temperature: 25 - 28C

R.H.: 65%

Carding: Vegetable matter is removed. Open fibres are converted into

slivers.

Pre-gilling: For the uniform mixing of slivers. Parallelisation and opening of

the fibers takes place. This is a process, and is carried out on NSC Gilling
Machine (imported from France).

Combing: Short fibres are removed to avoid the formation of neps in the
fabric. This process is a single passage one, though ten of these machines
are present.

Post-gilling: The same process is repeated.

Preparation of Top Wool bump top, each weighing 10 kg (forming

approximately 30 m yarn), is prepared using VALVAN Baling System (fully
automatic).

Daily production capacity: 5-6 tons

Processing of polyester

Polyester tow (with the fiber of 1.5 to 3 Denier) is the raw material for this
section.
All machines in this segment are of NSC brand.
The following processes are carried out:

Beating: The tow is beaten by means of an oscillating motion for spreading

it.
Crilling
Stretching
Relaxing
Cutting (75-80 mm sliver width is maintained by longitudinal cutting)
Gilling
Crimping (converting into sliver, and then winding around a cylinder)
Gilling
Making of Polyester Top 8.5 kg. A few tops are weighed in the beginning
in order to ensure the correct weight. The tops which do not have the
requisite weight are re-opened and sent for making of tops.

Number of machines present in this area:

1 machine for sliver formation
3 gilling machines (for a three-passage process)
1 bump top machine.
Every top is labelled in order to specify the denier of the fiber.

Daily production capacity: 5-6 tons

Dyeing

Date : 3rd June, 2015

HOD

: Mr. Shashinath Mishra

Dyeing is done in top, yarn and piece form depending on the size and requirements of
the order. If the order size is small, piece/yarn dyeing is preferred as there is less wastage
involved. Disperse dyes are used for dyeing polyester and reactive or metal complex
dyes are used for dyeing of wool.

Top Dyeing
Mentor

: Mr. Anand Mishra

The dyeing unit at Raymond has a 14 ton capacity per day.

There are 34 dyeing machines of the brand "Loris Bellini" imported from Italy:

14 machines having 30 kg dyeing capacity.

14 machines having 120 kg dyeing capacity.
6 machines having a 240 kg dyeing capacity.

After receiving the order, the shade of the sample in the order is matched to the colour
directory present. If the exact shade is found, the pre-determined recipe is used. If a
match for the shade is not found, then experiments are conducted in the sampling unit to
formulate the recipe.
The process flow is as follows:

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1. Pressing:
The grey tops from the grey combing section are placed on carriers and pressed
using a hydraulic pressing machine. The carriers come in various capacities:
30 kg: Has a single cylinder and can hold 4 tops. The pressing is done
manually.
120 kg: Has four cylinders and can hold 16 tops. The pressing is using
hydraulic pressing machine.
240 kg: Has eight cylinders and can hold 32 tops. The pressing is using
hydraulic pressing machine.
The cylinders are perforated to allow in-out flow of dye bath for even dyeing. The
dye enters inside the hollow of the cylinders through the base of the carriers. A
balance has to be maintained on the carriers for even distribution of weight of
tops, i.e., if 'n' number of tops are present on one cylinder, the exact same
number of tops should be present on the cylinder opposite to it.
2. Dyeing
Mostly the tops are dyed in batches and then all the batches are blended together
to give the most accurate shade and look to the fabric. For blends, the tops of
each type of fibre are dyed separately due to differences in properties of fibres.
For example, if 100 kg of a blend of 75% polyester and 25% wool has to be made,
then the tops can be divided into batches as follows:
Batch 1: 25 kg wool
Batch 2: 50 kg polyester
Batch 3: 25 kg polyester
The first batch is dyed and its shade is noted. If the required shade is darker, more
dye is added in the next batches to give the required shade; and vice versa.
The recipe of the dye bath is as follows:

WOOL:
The dyeing of wool is done at 98C.

Metal Complex Dye:

CHEMICAL

LIGHT

MEDIUM

DARK

EXTRA DARK

Acid:
AUXI GREEN
Buffer:
SODIUM ACETATE
Levelling Agent:
LYOGEN SMK
Acid:
AUXI GREEN
Soap:
FINOCOL POL
Soap:
FINOCOL POL
Anti-static Agent:
SELBANA-3001

1 gpl

1 gpl

1.5 gpl

1.5 gpl

2 gpl

2 gpl

2 gpl

2 gpl

1 gpl

0.75 gpl

0.5 gpl

0.5 gpl

0.5 gpl

1 gpl

1 gpl

1%

2%

2%

2%

2%

1%

1%

1%

1%

Anti-static Agent:
AUXI GREEN

.30%

.30%

.30%

.30%

Reactive Dye:

CHEMICALS

DARK/EXTRA DARK

Acid:
FORMIC ACID
Buffer:
SODIUM ACETATE
Levelling Agent:
LYOGEN WSN
Acid:
FORMIC ACID
Soap:
FINOCOL POL
Soap:
FINOCOL POL
Anti-static Agent:
SELBANA-3001

3 gpl

Anti-static Agent:
AUXI GREEN
Fixating Agent:
LIQUAR AMMONIA

0.3%

2 gpl
1 gpl
1 gpl
2%
2%
1%

1%

POLYESTER:
The dyeing of polyester tops is done at 130C.

Disperse Dye:
CHEMICALS

LIGHT

MEDIUM

DARK

EXTRA
DARK

Acid:
AUXI GREEN
Buffer:
TEXPERSE BF
Levelling Agent:
FINOSIL AB
Reduction
Clearing Agent:
FRANCOSSIST RC
Reduction
Clearing Agent:
FRANCOSSIST RC
Anti-static
Agent:
SELBANA-3001

0.25 gpl

0.25 gpl

0.25 gpl

0.25 gpl

1 gpl

1 gpl

1.1 gpl

1.2 gpl

0.5 gpl

0.5 gpl

0.3 gpl

0.2 gpl

1%

2%

2%

2%

2%

0.8%

0.8%

0.8%

0.8%

Anti-static
Agent:
AUXI GREEN

0.3%

0.3%

0.3%

0.3%

The dye bath is prepared in the colour dispensing machine and then supplied to
the dyeing machines using pipes.
After the dyeing process, the dye bath is discharged and soaping and washing of
material is done.
3. Hydro extraction:
Hydro extraction is done to remove the excess water from tops. The process lasts
for 15 min for polyester and 20 min for wool. Three hydro extraction machines are
present in the unit and each machine has a capacity of 16 tops.

4. RF Drying:
RF dryer or relative frequency dryer is used to completely dry out the tops. The
time taken to dry depends on the season and the amount of humidity present in
the atmosphere.
5. Checking of Sample
After drying, a 10 gram sample is made with each batch blended in its respective
ratio using a gilling machine. The sample is checked using a spectrophotometer
which gives details about the deviation of the sample made from the required
sample. A deviation up to 0.5 is accepted, whereas for export quality material, a
deviation of 0.3-0.2 is accepted.
The Spectrophotometer present was of the brand "AGS" and the model was "Color
Eye 7000A - Greytagmacbeth."
E is calculated using a software called ColoriControl. E is the sum of A and B
(i.e. the total color difference). The graph shown below calculates the total colour
deviation.

Piece Dyeing

Mentor
Date

: Mr. Vipen R. Shukla

: June 4, 2015.

Piece Dyeing is the process of dyeing fabric that has already been woven. This method is
put to use primarily for dyeing orders in small quantities, so that batch-to-batch colour
variation is not apparent. A maximum of 2-3 batches are dyed with this process.
Location and Process Flow:
The department of piece dyeing is placed in the same area as that of Finishing, for the
convenience of the material flow for the unit. The dye, however, is prepared in the top
dyeing department, and is then circulated in the piece dyeing machines.
The following process takes place once an undyed, white woven fabric is bought into this
department:

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A database system called SAP (System Application and Products) is used for lot-making.
Orders are booked 6 months in advance, for the upcoming season.

Dyeing Temperature:
Poly-wool

- 120C

100% wool

- 98C

Machines employed:
Name

Brazzoli

Capacity
(metres
fabric)
1000

Type of Machine

No.
nozzles

Soft flow dyeing

Italy

Sanjay 1 - 4

500

Soft flow dyeing

India

Antrass 1-2

250

Soft flow dyeing

India

Calico

Jet dyeing

India

Jigger

Viscose dyeing

of

of

Manufacturing
Country

Apart from these, 2 sampling machines are present, where the requisite quantity (i.e., 7m
or 15m) is dyed.

Acids used:
Dye Bath
Green Acid (1.0 GPL)
Sodium Acetate/ Optiacid PBI (1.0 GPL)
Lyogen DFT (on the weight of the fabric and the depth of shade)
Lyogen SMKI (on the weight of the fabric and the depth of
shade)
Wool safe PA (2.5% on weight of fabric)

Soaping
RC 55/ (0.5% on weight of fabric)
Green Acid (0.25 GPL)
Transclean F1 (1.5% on weight of fabric)

Washing

Green Acid (0.5% GPL)

Approximate cost of the Indian-manufactured machines - 20-25 lakhs
Machine in use for dyeing while on visit - Brazzoli no. 1.

A separate tank with an inbuilt filter is used to remove short fibres.

The process of loading is manual.
Fabric edges are stitched together for continuity in the operation of the machine.
Chain stitch with high SPI is used. 3 lines of stitch are made to ensure strength.
Amount of water used varies, according to the number of pieces being fed. 1000
litres of water are required for one piece.
Equal number of pieces are fed in both parts, for balance. Else, entanglement and
patchiness will result.

Soaping and washing are carried out in the same machine as dyeing.

Requisite Temperatures:
Soaping

- 70C; for 30 minutes

Dyeing
ones.

- 120C; 20 minutes for lighter shades, 30-40 minutes for darker

Yarn Dyeing
Yarn dyeing is the process of dyeing carried out after the yarn has been spun. This is
done if the order quantity is less and dyeing in the form of tops is unviable. The costs
incurred in the process of yarn dyeing are less if the order quantity is small.
The course of yarn dyeing is same as that of top dyeing. Perforated cylinders are used
for the even circulation of dye.

Colour Dispensing
The colour dispensing system is set up in the top dyeing department, and supplies dyes
for both top dyeing and piece dyeing.
The colour is fed in the respective hopper using the software, SAP.
Total number of hoppers: 78
The regular colours are fed in bigger hoppers, while new shades are fed in the smaller
ones.

After the recipe has been prepared, the flow of this system is as follows:

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This system is used to deliver both colour and chemical to the respective machines.
After a certain colour/ chemical is delivered, the pipes are cleaned and dried. Then, the
next shade of colour or chemical is sent in the same way.
Brand: Colour Service

Re-combing
There are 3 lines in Re-combing unit and in each line the following machines are present :

4
1
3
6
1
1

De-felters Wool fibres have a scaly surface due to which entanglement of the
fibres occurs after washing (i.e. Felting occurs). To avoid this, the fibres are passed
through the De-felting machine. For Blends only the wool components is passed
through de-felters. However, If the order is of a smaller quantity, Blending of
fibres is also done through de-felter (Both wool & polyester are passed through it).

Blender For larger orders, Mixing of wool and polyester fibres are done through
blending machine. The fibres are blended in their respective ratios. The Amount of
blending is based on the capacity of the feed. After Blending, The slivers are
stored on a rotating cylinder.

Gilling 2 way passage gilling is used Gill box 1 & 2 For smaller quantities.

Comber After gilling, the fibres are processed with comber which helps in
removing the leftover short fibers.

De-felters
Blender
Gill box
Combers
Pre-finisher
Finisher

Spinning

Date : June 4, 2015

HOD

: Mr. Sanjay Ajgaonkar

Mentor

: Mr. Sanjay Ajgaonkar

The process flow of the spinning department is as follows:

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The spinning department is divided into 3 sections:

1. Preparatory
2. Ring Frame
3. Post Spinning
All wool tops are conditioned for 8-48 hrs at 88F and a RH of 84% before going
into the spinning department.
1. Preparatory
Preparatory contains 5 drawing passages, the 1st two of which are single-headed,
the third double-headed, the fourth 4 headed and the final one is a vertical gill
passage which is used especially for finer yarns. The aim of all these passages is
to parallelize the fibres and to level the sliver weight.

Gilling
There are 3 gilling lines. The 1st line consists of 4 gilling machines with a
speed range of 200-250 m/min. This line is generally used for finer
materials. The 2nd line consists of 4 gilling machines with a speed range
upto 100 m/min. he last line consists of 4 gilling machines similar to 1 st. All
three lines have autoleveller in the 2nd gilling machine. RH% of gilling is
kept around 70%. After 4 gillings, one passage of GV -20 is there which is a
vertical gilling machine.

Vertical Rubbing Finisher

The final passage to the preparation to spinning has a vertical layout. The
drafting zone is followed by two rubbing zones which are easily accessible
by the operator. Rubbing provides the sliver with consistency and firmness.
At the delivery, two slivers are doubled and wound together on the take-up
bobbin. The machine is provided with an automatic device for the
unloading of the full bobbins and the loading of the empty tubes. The
machine permits a rubbing speed as high as 2200 strokes/min and
productions over 200 m/min.

2. Ring Frame
This is the last machine of the spinning cycle. It is fed by roving bobbins or
finisher bobbins, has a 4 or 4 cylinder draft unit with the double apron to ensure
fibre control, grooved intermediate cylinder under the top apron to enable a
controlled flowing of the fibres. The machine uses the ring/traveller system to
impart twist to the yarn to obtain the final strength properties. The spinning
frame has integrated automatic doffing for the unloading of the full bobbins and
the loading of empty tubes. The machine can be linked to the automatic winder.

3. Post-Spinning
This sector includes all operations through which the yarn is prepared into
packages meeting the requirements of subsequent weaving.

Steaming
Steaming is done to stabilize the twist imparted in the yarn by the ring
frame machine. In this process, the yarn in the bobbin is kept in the sealed
chamber. Firstly, the temperature is made to rise to 60-65C and after a
few minutes, vacuum is created in the chamber. Steam is released into the
chamber and the air pores inside the package get sucked and are replaced
by steam. The aeration cycle occurs after this which cools down the yarns.
The process is repeated once more which completes the steaming cycle. In
this process, the water molecules enter the fibres and open the structural
bonds. After opening they get re-aligned in the twisted form and thus lose
the tendency to snarl and get stabilized.

Bobbing-to-Cone Winding
The automatic winders or auto-coners unwind the yarns from the bobbins
and wind it onto cones. The dimensions of the yarn are kept under control
as the yarn is made to pass through electronic supervision elements.

Ply Winding
Doubling is achieved by ply winding machine. In this machine, two cones
of single yarn are fed to one head. They get wound together on a parallel
tube. A perfect package shape on ply winding guarantees less breakages
on TFO machine.

TFO (Two for One Twisting)

Yarn twisting has the aim to impart twist to two or more doubled yarns in
order to obtain a stronger yarn. The machine used for this operation was
the two-for-one twister. With this system, at each spindle rotation two
twists are imparted to the yarn. The feeding cone is idle and the wound off
yarn is inserted into the stalk of the spindle, comes out of it from the
bottom, places itself on a disk which rotates together with the spindle and
then re-ascends on the outside of the feeding cone forming a balloon and
finally, by passing through the loop, feeds the cone under formation. An
overfeeding system controls the tension and therefore the density of the
cone.

Weaving
Date : June 5, 2015 June 6, 2015
H.O.D.

: Mr Jagdish Kumar

Mentor

: Mr Dheeraj Patil

This is the department where the actual process of intertwining of yarns to make fabric,
happens. The yarns are first readied and then weft is inserted at a later stage to obtain
the fabric.
The process flow of this department before the weaving takes place is as follows:

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Receiving Piece Ticket: The order quantity is obtained from the Supply Chain
Management (SCM). These are then categorised and prioritised, according to the
market sector they cater to.
o Pink : Exclusive Quality
o Yellow
: Export Quality

o
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Orange
: Exotic Quality
Blue : Institutional
Green : Stock Lot
White : Civil Quality

Obtaining required yarn from Yarn Storage: Yarns of one kind are given a
unique ID which helps locating them in the yarn storage room.
All-wool yarns have a separate storage where the room temperature and relative
humidity is controlled. These yarns are stored in an Air Conditioned room where
the relative humidity is maintained at 75%. This is monitored through a sensor (of
brand Rotostand) installed in the room.

Warping: A series of threads is prepared to be wound around a beam. Eight

Elgotech machines are present for this process.

Beaming: Here, the warp yarn is wound. There are three winding machines
available in this unit.

Knotting: Tying of knots at the warp ends to prevent entanglement.

Design Feeding: Grobextra Alfix is used for designing purposed. Here, the number
of heald shafts, number of picks, etc. is determined. The software used is
Supervega.

After these preparatory processes are completed, the insertion of weft starts. This is
done either through a rapier or through an air-jet.
The efficiency of the air-jet machine is 82%, and the RPM is 600 (twice that of Air-jet).
The processes taking place after the weaving has been done are:

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The inspection machines are five in number, and have been bought from ALMAC,
Vadodara, India. These machines also have an attached length marker for recordkeeping.
The defects that are spotted are marked with chalk, while tex markers are used for
permanent length markings.
100% inspection is done at this stage. Approximately 90,000 metres of fabric is
prepared and is ready for mending, while 30,000 metres are mended in this
department every day. Proper facilities and working conditions are provided to the
work force involved in the mending of defects, as the work requires high patience and
precision.

Finishing

Date : June 8, 2015

HOD

: Mr. Jitendra Sharma

Mentor: Mr. Anand Rathapathi

Finishing of fabric is done to impart softness, dimensional stability and other properties
necessary for its end use. The process flow for the finishing of fabric was as follows:

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Fabric from the mending department is brought in and stored into the grey room.
1. Batching
Batches of 10 pieces per lot are made and kept together.

2. Pre-Scouring
Machine Used: Cimi
The fabric is washed using detergent to remove any impurities present on it.
3. Drying
Excess water from the fabric is removed and it is dried.
4. Heat Set
Machine Used: Montfort
Heat setting of fabric is done to set the polyester component of the fabric. After
bring heat set, the wrinkling property of the fabric is reduced. The temperature is
kept at 185C (i.e. the last transition temperature of polyester).

5. Shearing
Shearing is done to remove the protruding fibres from the surface of the fabric
using a blade. The fabric is first brushed so that the fibres stand up and can be cut
easily by the blade. The speed of the brush is generally set at 600 RPM ad that of
the cutter is set at 1100 RPM. The fabric moves at a speed of 30 m/min inside the
machine. The waste from this process is collected in plastic sacks attached to the
machine.
6. Singeing
Machine Used: OSHTOHOFF SENGE
Gas singeing of fabric takes place.
7. Rope Scouring
Machine Used: Flexrapid 600
The fabric is scoured in rope form. The softeners generally used are Actipeach and
Silicosan.
8. Drying
The scoured fabric is dried.
9. Semi-Finished Inspection
After being dried, the fabric is inspected for any faults or finishing defects.
10.Shearing
The shearing of fabric is done again.
11.Damping
Machine Used: Wego
The fabric is passed through a dampening machine which has nozzles that spurt
out water. It serves as a preparatory for decatizing.
12.Kier Decatizing
Steam is applied to the fabric for a 20 min cycle to remove unwanted wrinkles and
to give it stability. This is the last process in the finishing department, after which
the fabric is sent to the folding department.

Folding

Date

: June 8, 2015

H.O.D

: Vinod Dwivedi

The following processes take place here:

Perching Section:
Finish checked. If the quality of finishing falls below the requisite limits, the fabric is
sent back to the finishing department. Both the face and back side of the fabrics are
checked, and marked, for defects.
Segregation Section:

The finishing is re-checked.

Cards are made, quality-wise.
Piece number and quality number are written
Tag pertaining to the corresponding brand is attached.
Paper transfer is attached, each at a distance of 1 m.
Two stickers one on the cardboard and the other on the fabric tag are
attached.

At this stage, wrapping is done. This can be in the form of:

Rolls, for export market. 16-25 m rolls.

Double fold and wrap on cardboard, for domestic and civil markets. 15 m pieces.
Four times fold and wrap on Styrofoam, for premium range suit lengths. 3.25 m
suit lengths.

Each cut is weighed and a temporary meter stamp is used for marking this length.
Entry is made using the barcode tag attached on the fabric.
Packing is done by attaching ribbons and covering with plastic wrappers.

At the final stage, the fabric is transported to the warehouse where the fabric is stored or
dispatched according to the order requirements.

Quality Control
Date : June 8, 2015
HOD

: Mr. Pramod Paranjape

Mentor

: Mr. Bhupesh

Raw material and finished material of various processes undergo various tests to check
whether they meet the required specifications or not. The QC department works in all
three shifts and the information acquired by the tests is fed into SAP. If the material is
found to lack in quality, it is sent back to the respective department for mending. If the
faults cannot be mended, then the whole lot is either marked as a second or rejected
altogether.

The management officers of the QC department also conduct surprise checks, vigilance
checking and auditing in every department to ensure overall maintenance of quality
level.
The machines present for testing of materials at various stages are as follows:

Open Form:

Test for Amount of Grease in Scoured Wool:

The grease in wool should be removed after scouring. Therefore, to check whether
proper scouring has been done or not, the amount of grease in the scoured wool
is calculated. A 1 gm sample of wool is dissolved in 10 ml of dichloromethanol.
The liquid is extracted from the wool and then heated on a hot plate. The
dichloromethanol evaporates leaving behind grease which is stored into
aluminium containers and weighed.

Top/Sliver Form:

Test for Amount of Oil in Top:

The right amount of oil should be present in tops to be properly lubricated for
spinning. Thus, a 1 gram sample is taken and dissolved in methanol. The sample
is pressed to extract all the liquid from it. The extracted liquid is heated on a hot
plate where all the methanol evaporates leaving only oil behind which is then
weighed.

Test for Defects in Tops:

A 40 gram sample is taken and checked for number of neps, slubs and other
defects.

Test for Fibre Length and Diameter in Top:

Machine Used - Ofda
The top after re-combing is brought in for this test. The machine has a scanner
using which it automatically calculates the average fibre length and diameter in
the top. It also shows the maximum and minimum fibre length and diameter. The
machine measures 1200-1300 fibres to calculate the average length. The sample
we saw being tested had the following readings:
Average fibre length :
67.44 mm
Average fibre diameter
:
17.3 microns

Yarn Form:

Test for Defects in Yarns:

Visual examination of yarns for defects like slubs, neps, etc. is done.

TPI Tester:
A 15 yarn is clamped between two ends and untwisted completely. The machine
calculates the twist per inch based on the number of rotations made to untwist
the yarn. The yarn that we saw being tested had a TPI of 20.25

Test for Yarn Strength:

Machine Used Textechno Statimat M

The yarn is clamped on both ends and pulled. The force required to break is yarn
is measured which gives the yarn strength.

Test for Yarn Count:

A ley of 100m of yarn is made and then weighed. The yarn count in Tex I then
calculated by the following formula:
Count in Tex = (Weight/Length) X 1000

Test for Yarn Defects:

Machine Used Uster Tester 5
This machine can be used for counting defects and uneven thickness of yarns as
well as tops.

Fabric Form:
1. Tests for Shrinkage
A swatch of 25cm X 25 cm is made and the final reading after conducting the test
is taken. Shrinkage is calculated both warp-wise and weft-wise by subtracting the
final reading from the initial reading. The acceptable shrinkage limit is 2 cm.

Steaming Shrinkage:
Machine Used - Mesdan Lab
The machine has two bucks - one upper buck and one lower buck. The sample is
pressed in between the lower buck and the upper buck. It is then steamed for 5
cycles (each cycle having a duration of 1 min) and allowed to relax for 1.5 hours.

Thermal Shrinkage:
Machine Used - Kkashyap
A top fusing machine is used and no steam is involved. The temperature is set at
130C and the sample is placed inside the machine for 30 seconds.

Washing Shrinkage:
Machine Used - Electrolux Top Load Washing Machine
The ISO 6330 and AATCC 35 standard test procedures are followed. The detergent
used is Henkomatic and the temperature of the water is kept around 40C. 3
cycles are used for polyester rich fabrics and 2 cycles for wool rich fabrics. The
duration of each cycle is 1.5 hours.

Hygral Shrinkage:
The standard procedure used is JISL 1096C in which the sample is kept in a
condition chamber under required temperature and humidity.

Relaxation Shrinkage:
The fabric sample is kept in cold water for a certain period of time and the
shrinkage is measured.

2. Tests for Fastness

A sample is taken and its colour is noted and compared to grey scale after the tests.

Washing Fastness:
Machine Used - Presto Washometer
The sample is washed under domestic laundry-like conditions and checked for
colour fastness.

Dry-cleaning Fastness:
Machine Used - Presto Washometer
The AATCC 132 standard test procedure is followed. Tetrachloroehtylene is used
instead of detergent and the process takes place at 30C for 30 minutes.

Sublimation Fastness:
This test is done to check the sublimation fastness of polyester fabric. The
temperature is kept at 180C and the duration of the test is 30 seconds.

Rubbing Fastness:
Machine Used Presto Crock-o-meter
The standard ISO 105x12 or AATCC 8 procedure is followed for this test. A 12 cm
fabric strip is cut and placed onto the machine. A piece of un-dyed cotton is
clamped above it and rubbed onto it for 10 cycles (each cycle lasting 10 seconds).
The cotton piece is then compared to grey scale and rating is given to the fabric
accordingly.

Light Fastness:
Machine Used Atlas Weather-o-meter
The test was carried out by ISO 105 B02 standards. The time duration for the tests
could be either 21 hrs or 42 hrs based on the procedure asked to follow by the
buyer.

3. Test for Seam Slippage:

Seam slippage occurs if the weave of the fabric is not proper. Thus to check the
fabric for proper construction, this test is carried out. A lockstitch is given to two
fabric pieces to form a seam and then both the ends of the seam are clamped. A
force of 8 kgs is applied and the seam slippage is scrutinized.
4. Test for Tearing Strength:
The standard ASTM D 1424 procedure is followed for this test. The fabric sample is
clamped onto the machine and a 2 cm tear is made first, then the fabric is torn
completely. The machine gives an angle based of which the tearing strength is
calculated. For example, if the machine gives a reading of 40, then the tearing
strength of the fabric is 40% of the maximum strength that can be applied by the
machine (i.e. 6400 gm).
5. Test for Wetting Capacity:
Machine Used Paramount Wetting Machine
A fabric sample of 18cm X 18 cm is cut and fixed tightly on a circular frame. The
frame is kept below a funnel with water at an angle of 45. Water pours onto the
fabric drop-by-drop and wets it. The wetting capacity rating is given as follows:

If the rating is below 90, the fabric fails this test.

6. Test for Pilling:
Machine Used Paramount and Presto Pilling Testers
There were 6 machines in total. Each machine had two rotating boxes. Four
12X25 cm fabric samples are cut and wound on rubber cylinders. Two samples
have the right side of the fabric on top and the other two have their wrong sides
on top. The samples are placed into the boxes and are rotated for 18000 rounds. A
box can have a maximum of 4 samples inside it. The amount of pilling occurred is
then rated according to the grey scale.
7. Test for Tensile Strength:
Machine Used Statex
This test is carried out for both yarns and fabrics.
8. Test for Seam Slippage and Tensile Strength:
There was an automatic machine that calculated both the seam slippage and the
tensile strength of the fabric. It followed the following standards:
Tensile Strength
:
ASTM D 5034
Seam Slippage
:
ASTM D434
For export to Japan :
IWS TM 117
9. Test for Abrasion and Pilling:
Machine Used Hartindale
The standard ISO 12947-2 procedure is followed.
For testing pilling:
Fabric sample is clamped on both the top and the base clamp.
No. of cycles 1,000 to 2,000
For testing of abrasion resistance:
Fabric sample is clamped on the base clamp and either an un-dyed cotton or wool
sample is clamped on the top clamp.
No. of cycles 10,000 to 20,000

Warehouse
HOD :

Mr.Anoop Rae

Date :

12 June, 2015

After the folding process, transfer orders (TO) are generated and daily analysis of
the TOs occurs. Based on the TOs confirmed till 12 am on that day, packing is
done and dispatch list is created. Weight of the package is taken and shipment is
made. The shipment has two section Domestic and Export.
The packages are placed in different color coded shelves before being sent to the
warehouse. The colour coding is as follows:

Black:

Current Season (9m-15m)

Brown:

Odd length (6m-8.90 m)

Pink:

Cuts and Defects (above 1m 5.90 m)

Red:

Exclusive

Blue:

MTO

Yellow:
Dark Green:
Purple:

Middle East
MTO Surplus
Previous Season

The packages are then brought into the warehouse and stored in six different
zones based on what category they belong to. The zones are as follows:
A & B Zone:

Fresh Stock

C Zone:

Suit Length

D Zone:

Previous Season

E Zone:

Odd lengths

F Zone:

Export

Each section in each zone is given a special code and the information of all the
packages kept in it is used to fetch the packages when needed. This special
coding makes it very easy to locate a particular package in the warehouse.

Cheetah Project:
The warehouse at Raymond was following the Cheetah Project and had a
Heijunka Board to keep records of its success. The standard time required to
fetch a number of packages was given and each worker had to put and entry of
their own time taken. This provided a comparative study of the speed and also
motivated the workers to work faster and thus improve the speed of the process.

After the required packages have been collected, the process that follows is:

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Raymond had a total of 14 transporters and the transport cost was added to the
customers bill.

Learning

The experience of working at this unit has given us a good insight into the working and
the process flow of making of textiles. The machine specifications, textile specifications
and waste treatment were also learnt.
Her e, every minute detail is taken care of. The comfort of the workers is of utmost
priority in this unit. A case at hand, the fabric inspection department which requires the
workers to minutely examine every inch of the fabric, has music playing continually in

the background to relieve the workers. This strenuous job is also made easier by the
provision of chairs moving on a horizontal rail on the press of a button, to cover the width
of the fabric. The ergonomics too is paid attention to a separate fan has been provided
for every single worker just above their work area.
Another extremely interesting lesson learnt was to make the full utilisation of the
resources at hand. Raymond sells the by-product of wool scouring, grease, to high-end
cosmetic brands like MAC and earns a handsome amount of money.
The organisation, the workforce and the planning of the unit are remarkable. This unit
has set standards high for excellence in every domain where it has set its hold.
Above all, the dedication that this company puts into its functioning has made it a legacy
of sorts and inspired us to do likewise.