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Internship at Alok
Industries Ltd Garments
Division, Saily, 2010
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We, Ashish Kumar Annepu and Lalit Kishore Singh of NIFT Hyderabad express our in depth
gratitude to Mr. SANDEEP MAHAJAN (VP garments) and Mr. SAMUEL MUPPAVARAPU
(IE HOD) of Saily plant for guiding us along with road map before and throughout the
training.
We are heartily thanking to below member of Alok Vapi HR Team for extending their
courtesy & guideline during our stay with Alok industries Vapi.
Further we are thankful to following of Alok Garments Production team for giving us technical
and functional knowhow and support during our entire training duration.
Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu (Training Mentor).
Fabric store
Accessory store
Thread store
Sampling (Woven)
Sampling (Knits)
CAD department
Sewing/Production (woven)
Quality
Finishing/Packaging
Maintenance
Industrial engineering
Production Merchandising
Embroidery
Mr.Anandan Naidu-
Printing
IT
2
We would also like to thank our Honourable Director Mr K.S .Pratap and Respected
Registrar Mr D. Rajesham and the following faculties for guiding us through from the
beginning and successful completion of our internship Ms. Sharmila Sure (Course Coordinator-DFT dept ,Internship mentor)
PART 1
INTRODUCTION
B F Tech at NIFT is a very practical oriented course that equips students with all the
necessary skill sets that the industry expects. As a part of the course a two month internship
at a garmennt firm is mandated,
understanding of
various processes related aspects of the sector. Internship enables students to get a better
understanding of a company, correlate theory with practice, provides an opportunity to study
and organsiation and its products and processes and also gaining knowledge on its
functioning.
We chose to pursue the internship at M/S Alok Industries Garments division at Saily,
Silvassa. This company is Indias largest vertically integrated mill with an envious export
record accompanied by a dominant position in the domestic market.
In compilation of this Internship report, all out efforts have been made to present a
comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Alok Industries in the garment unit
1. Company profile
1.1 Introduction
Alok industries Ltd is one of Indias largest Vertically Integrated Company. It is head
quartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in Vapi, Silvassa & Navi Mumbai.
The company is an end to end provider of integrated textile solutions with five core
divisions: - Cotton yarn, Apparel fabrics, Home textiles, and Garment and Polyester
yarns.
2. ORGANISATION CHART/HIERARCHY
OCM
TNA
CAD
SAMPLING
R&D
OB
As per TNA
material
procurement
Pattern and
marker
Fit sample
Tech-Pack
analysis
Capacity
booking
Fabric
Fabric
consumption
size set
Machine
details
Learning
curve
PP sample
Needle and
attachment
details
Build up plan
Pattern
details
Thread
consumption
Trims
Other
accessories
Cutting
Embroidery
Printing
Sewing
Finishing
Dispatch
Part 2
10
GARMENTS DIVISION
11
Physical Recording
Quality Checking
Receive of Actual
Consumption as per IE Dept.
12
13
IE
DISPATCH
SAMPLING
FABRIC
STORE
PPC
QUALITY
PROD.
MERCHANDISING
IT
CUTTING
IE dept- Fabric details like length (woven), diameter/width and GSM (knits)
are sent to IE for consumption determination.
PPC dept- Fabric receival date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC
for planning and scheduling.
Quality dept- Quality inspections are carried out and sent for verification and
approvals.
IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.
Sampling dept- The fabric for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store. These fabrics are specially kept and checked to ensure
quality.
Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the fabric coming into the factory and
outward of the fabric lot going back to the mill from store is maintained by the
dispatch.
Cutting dept- The cutting department relies on the store for quality clearance
and issue of the fabric for cutting purposes.
14
No. of Workers
11
Area Covered
Capacity
50 tonnes
Machinery
MIS
Storage
Tables
Tubelights
160 (80 X 2)
Fans
40
Compliance norms
15
Trims received
Physical check
Storage
Receival of
consumption from IE
Issue to sewing
/cutting
16
SAMPLING
DISPATCH
(INWARD OUTWARD)
PROD MERCHANDISING
ACCESSORY
STORE
PPC
(TRACKING)
IT
(MIS)
SEWING/CUTTING
17
PPC dept- Trims received date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC
for planning and scheduling.
IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.
Sampling dept- The trims for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store.
Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the trims coming into the factory and
outward of the trim lot going back to the vendor from store is maintained by
the dispatch.
Cutting/Sewing dept- The departments rely on the store for issue of the trims
for cutting/sewing purposes.
No. of Workers
Area Covered
Storage
MIS
Machinery
Tables
Tubelights
20(10 X 2)
Fans
Compliance norms
18
Colour matching
Approval from
Merchandiser
Purchase Requisition
sheet (manual)
PR Approval
PR registration
Generate P.O
Thread ordering
Received
Inspection
Storage
Issue
19
Thread cones
/boxes issued
20
SAMPLING
DISPATCH
(INWARD
OUTWARD)
PROD.
MERCHANDISING
THREAD
STORE
PPC
(TRACKING)
IT
(MIS)
SEWING
PPC dept- Thread received date, quantity and other details are sent to the
PPC for planning and scheduling.
IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.
Sampling dept- The thread for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store.
Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the thread coming into the factory and
outward of the thread going back to the vendor from store is maintained by
the dispatch.
21
No. of Workers
Area Covered
600sft(20X30)
MIS
Storage
8 Movable racks
Tables
Tubelights
16(8X2)
Fans
Compliance norms
22
FIT SAMPLE
BUYER
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL
SIZE SET
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL
PRE PRODUCTION
SAMPLE
BUYER
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL
23
TECH PACK
CONCEPT SAMPLE
APPROVAL
24
TECH PACK
ANALYSIS
PATTERN MAKING
FABRIC ANALYSIS
SAMPLE CUTTING
SAMPLE
CONSTRUCTION
FINISHING AND
PACKAGING
MERCHANDISER
25
2.5 TERMINOLOGIES
o Fit sample- It is the first sample developed in compliance with the spec
sheet. It is optional to create the sample using substitute fabric and
trims. Usually fit samples are of middle range size. Fit approvals are
required from the buyer on this sample.
26
o Size set- This consists of a group of four to five graded sizes. This is
required to obtain approval on the grading of sizes. Any comments
received on fit samples are applied here. These samples are made
from actual fabric, trims and packaging materials exactly as per techpack.
o Pre-Production (pp) sample- This is the final sample developed with
all comments received from the buyer using actual trims and fabric.
This is the last sample in which changes from buyer is accepted. This
sample acts as reference for production. It is developed with strict
adherence to the tech pack. After approval a FFP (fit for production)
seal is put up on it. It then is called the FFP sample.
o TOP (top of production) sample- This sample is the top most sample
from the pilot run from a real production line. Buyer approval is required
on this sample in order to proceed further. The purpose of the sample
is to determine whether all requirements are met while mass
production.
o Concept sample- It is the first sample created in order to present the
fit and concept of the garment. It may be developed in substitute fabric
and trims. The measurements can be in tolerance range.
o Red seal- This is similar to size set samples of two to three sizes with
fit conformance. The sample can be developed in substitute fabric and
trims.
o Black seal- It is similar to the PP sample and is made of actual fabric
and trims. This sample is optional and is developed on buyer demand.
o Gold seal- This sample is similar to TOP sample and is required to
determine if all specifications are met during production.
Photo shoot sample- This sample is developed for buyers marketing and
advertising purpose. It has to be made from actual fabric and trims. It is
developed in between Fit and PP samples.
27
PROD.
MERCHANDISING
FABRIC,THREAD,
ACCESSORY
STORE
QUALITY
SAMPLING
PRINTING
EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERY-
The
department
provides
sampling
with
requisite
28
No. of Workers
30
Area Covered
Machinery
MIS
Storage
2 racks
Tables
Tubelights
54 tubes
Fans
15
Compliance norms
29
Tech-pack from
sampling
Base Pattern
development
Grading
Final pattern
Marker making
Calculate
consumption (IE)
Revised Marker
making
30
PROD.
MERCHANDISIN
G
QUALITY
IT
CAD
CUTTING
SAMPLING
IE
31
QUALITY- Quality department receives the sealed patterns for quality control
of cut pieces from cutting.
CUTTING- The cutting receives the marker plan and pattern pieces for
cutting.
IE- IE calculates the fabric consumption as per the marker plan developed so
as to determine and confirm the fabric consumption.
IT- It maintains Network layout between Gerber Cutter and the CAD, and the
software and hardware.
CAD
No. of shifts
Area Covered
96 sft (12 X 8)
Machinery
CAD Software
Gerber Accumark
PDS
AccuNest
Storage
Racks-2
Tables
Tubelights
14 (7 X 2)
Fans
Compliance norms
32
QUALITY CONTROL
INSPECTION
PRODUCTION
PROGRAMME
FABRIC ISSUE
REQUISITION
FABRIC ISSUE
SPREADING
CUTTING
TICKETING
BUNDLING
STORAGE
ISSUE
33
PROD
MERCHANDISING
CAD
FABRIC STORE
SPREADING
AND
CUTTING
MAINTAINANCE
PRINTING
SEWING
QUALITY
EMBROIDERY
35
PROD MERCHANDISING- Provides the PI sheet and all the details of the
order to be cut.
FABRIC STORE- It issues the fabric for cutting process as per the PI sheet.
SEWING- Cutting issues all the cut pieces required for sewing process.
QUALITY-Quality checks all the cut parts of a garment before they are sent to
sewing.
CAD- The pattern and the marker plan for spreading and cutting is provided
by the CAD department.
36
No. of Workers
56
Area Covered
39240sft
Machinery
continuous
press
(Hashima
HP900L CS)
13. Gerber Cutter GT7250
14. Gerber spreader XLS50-2
MIS
Storage
Tables
Racks-2(piece replacement)
Racks-4(piping storage)
Panel replacement-1
CAD -2
37
Pipnig-1
End bits-1
Manual cutting(knits)-1
Fusinng-1
Quality checking-2
Tubelights
1320 (660 X 2)
Fans
96 (96 x 2)
Compliance norms
38
5. SEWING/PRODUCTION
5.1 PROCESS FLOW
CUTTING
ISSUE
LINE ISSUE
FEEDING
SEWING
END LINE
CHECKING
FINISHING
40
IE
PPC
QUALITY
SEWING
THREAD,
ACCESSORY
STORE
MAINTAINANCE
FINISHING/
PACKAGING
CUTTING
IE- The department is responsible for preparing machine layouts, line setup,
managing productivity, efficiency, line balancing, time and method study.
FINISHING- It receives the production output directly from the sewing lines for
further processing.
CUTTING- The cutting department issues cut parts as input for the sewing
lines.
PPC- It keeps track of the production so as to ensure that deadlines are met
and to take necessary correctional measures.
SEWING
No. of shifts
No. of Workers
500
20
Area Covered
Machinery
Refer annexure.
MIS
Storage
Racks-20
Tables
80
Tubelights
2226 (1113 X 2)
Fans
Compliance norms
42
6. QUALITY
6.1 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES
IE
EMBROIDERY/
PRINTING
CAD
SEWING
QUALITY
PROD.
MERCHANDISE
R
FINISHING /
PACKAGING
CUTTING
FABRIC STORE
43
IE- The IE department sends the Operation Bulletin and machine layout. The
quality department determines the check points (in line) by identifying the critical
operations based upon the buyer comments received upon the PP sample and
the complex operations.
Due to this it is called Traffic Light System. Using this system the QC
can identify the workstation where quality issue originates. In case of Red
colour the production from the workstation is stopped and solutions are looked
for. The QA personnel look after major quality concerns and checks the
details of the End Line checking. The QC is also responsible for developing
AQL reports at the end of the shift based upon buyer AQL levels at end-line
checking. The QC based upon his estimates for the production of the day,
selects the required produced pieces criteria and determines the sample size
for the AQL. QC then randomly inspects throughout the day of the required
sample size and compiles the AQL report. The AQL report is generated
similarly for in-line checking by the checker. The AQL reports helps in
classifying the defects into critical, major and minor criteria. The quality also
approves the size set pieces during pre-production phase.
44
FINISHING- Quality department is responsible for checking that all the buyer
requirements are met before dispatch. The quality is checked after pressing,
folding, and packaging. After pressing the garments are sent to the final
checking tables where teams of checkers check the garments for various
defects. The defects found are classified and segregated for Spotting,
Alteration, Mending and Rejection. Minor spots are mended on the checking
table using petrol guns. The alterations are sent back to the respective lines
based on the line number sticker attached under the label by the end-line
checker. Mending is done on a separate table after which checking is done
again. Rejection pieces are sent to the rejection room and recorded. Each
Checker a sticker under the garment label containing a number specific to the
checker himself. Then after checking the garments are sent for tagging. After
folding it is checked whether it has been done as per buyer requirements.
Similarly various stages of packaging also checking are carried out to ensure
adherence to buyer compliance.
CUTTING- Quality department regularly checks the cut pieces as per the
patterns provided by the CAD. Department is also involved in the pre
production phase where before bulk cutting, size set samples are approved
before and after pressing. The quality checks the markers before cutting to
ensure all requisite parts of the particular style are present.
45
pinning. These reports are sent to IE, CAD and Merchandising department for
revised consumption calculation.
CAD- It provides the quality department with pattern pieces and the marker
plan for quality control purposes.
QUALITY
No. of shifts
No. of Checkers
45
20
Documentation
Storage
Compliance norms
46
7. FINISHING/PACKAGING
7.1 PROCESS FLOW
RECEIVE GARMENT
STICKERING
PRESSING
FIINAL CHECKING
TAGGING
FOLDING
PRIMARY PACKAGING
SECONDARY PACKAGING
TERTIARY PACKAGING
FINAL INSPECTION
REPACKING
TO DISPATCH
47
QUALITY
PROD.
MERCHANDISING
MAINTAINANCE
FINISHING/
PACKAGING
DISPATCH
PPC
SEWING
PPC- PPC keeps track of the pace of work so that the FI and shipment date
are met.
49
No. of Workers
15
Machinery
Chemicals used
(black
stain
from
white
fabric)
5. Emerol-ol (grease and hard mud stains)
6. Tin-ol (embroidery and printing stains)
Storage
Racks-6
Boxes -35 (Neel-kamal)
Tables
Compliance norms
50
8. MAINTENANCE
8.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The maintenance department looks after all the machines in the garment
division. The department is mainly responsible for:
o Machine maintenance,
51
NEEDLE
BREAKAGE
REPORT TO
MAINTENENCE
SEARCH FOR
ALL APRTS OF
THE NEEDLE
FOUND
NOT FOUND
DEPOSIT
SEARCH WITH
MAGNETIC
BAR
RECORD
CHECK WITH
METAL HAND
DETECTOR
REPLACE
FOUND
NOT FOUND
DEPOSIT
SEPARATE
CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS
RECORD
USE LARGE
METAL
DETECTOR
REPLACE
52
FOUND
NOT FOUND
DPOSIT
SEPARATE
CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS
RECORD
REJECT
CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS
REPLACE
NEEDLE
REPLACED
QUALITY
IE
CUTTING
MAINTENANCE
FINISHING
&
PACKAGING
SEWING
53
IE- Before the line setup IE sends the machine layout required. As per the
garment the maintenance department prepares the machines with appropriate
needle and attachments.
No. of shifts
No. of Engineers
No. of Mechanics
10
No. of Fitters
Documentation
Storage
Cupboards -4
Area
Tubelights
30 (15 X 2)
Fans
10
Machinery
Lathe machine
Drilling machine
Buffing machine
Solding machine
Grinding machine
54
o
o
o
o
55
LENGTH OF MARKER / NUMBER OF GARMENTS (IN MARKER) = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (WOVEN)
In the pre-fabric booking phase the details of the fabric are provided by the
merchandiser as given by the buyer. Consumption per garment is calculated and
fabric is booked by the HO merchandisers based on this consumption. In the postfabric receiving phase the actual fabric details like Diameter, GSM, Length, Width,
etc of are sent to the IE for revised consumption calculation. Revised markers are
also prepared by the CAD based on the fabric received and sent t the IE. The IE
crosschecks the consumption requirements and informs the merchandiser in case of
any irregularities. In consumption calculations the fabric width wastage for knits is
taken to be 2 and for tubular 1. The wastage added to the consumption per
garment for knits is 5% and for woven 3%.
56
9.1.2 Line setup During the pre-production phase IE performs various functions
such as preparation of OB (operation bulletin), preparation of SAMs, determining
type and the number of machines required.
9.1.2.1 Machine layout Before starting with the production IE determines the
layout of the machines on the sewing line. This is based upon the sequence of
operations required. The number of machines required is calculated on the basis of
pitch time calculations. The pitch time is calculated as the sum of SAMs of the
garment divided by the number of operations and then a comparison is done
between the pitch time and the
SAM of each operation. If the
SAM value is more than the pitch
time then the machine required would be equal to the division of the SAM by the
pitch time, else a single machine is required for the operation. The machine layout
chart consists of the operation names, machine names with attachments, SAM
(expected) and target per hour. The estimated SAMs are provided using PDTS (pre
determined time standards). The SAM of the garment is calculated as the sum of
SAM of all the operations. And the production target for each operation per hour and
per day is calculated based on the expected efficiency.
9.1.2.2 Machine set-up After the machine layout has been prepared the IE
department in co-ordination with the maintenance department gets the machines set
in the lines as per layout. The IE in co-ordination with other departments ensures
that the machines are properly set for production with right attachments and settings.
9.1.2.3 Line balancing After the line has been set, IE looks after the production of
the line to check whether any operation requires more or less machines. This is done
for the purpose of optimization of production and efficiency to appropriate levels. IE
also performs time study to determine the actual SAM to compare with the estimated
value for this purpose.
57
9.1.3 Productivity and efficiency management IE looks after the production and
efficiency of the lines to help the production meet its target and deadlines. Various
tools used for this purpose are time study and method study.
9.1.3.1 Time study It is an analysis tool for measuring the actual time for each
operation. The time study is done using a stopwatch and recording sheet. It is
normally performed a week after line start-up. The time study is performed by ten
continuous cycle time recording for each operation. Average for these values is
calculated and a rating is given to the operators work. Based on the rating and the
average time average time is calculated. Allowance factors are allotted depending
upon the gender of the operator and the machine used in the operation. These
allowances in combination with their basic time are used for deriving the SAM value.
The time study is used for making pitch diagrams to identify bottlenecks in a line. A
pitch diagram is a graphical representation of production of each workstation. The
lowest point on this graph is taken to be estimated production of the line. This lowest
value is also identified as the bottleneck operation. For which various steps are taken
to improve its production. These steps include method study of the operation,
physical check of the machine, sewing operation parameters, nature of fabric and
material handling and motivation of operator to upgrade.
9.1.3.2 Method study Method study is performed by studying the operational
methods used by the operators. The main aim of the method study is to provide easy
and streamlined way of doing an operation. The method study aims at reducing
wasteful or avoidable movements in order to reduce time for the completion of the
operation. It is done by observing the operators initial work methods and recording
the details of work method such as elemental time required for each type of motion
and frequency of motion. Analysing the recorded data and finding a feasible solution
to reduce the manual work and cycle time a new work method is proposed. The
proposed work method is tested for feasibility and accordingly implemented.
58
9.1.4 Costing The IE department is responsible for costing at three stages. Query
stage, pre-production stage and final costing.
9.1.4.1 Query stage costing Query is a stage at which a buyer approaches the
company for the purpose of acquiring the approximate details of the costing for a
style of which the buyer proposes production. At this stage the IE provides the rough
estimate on the manufacturing cost of the garment to the buyer on past data and
experiences. This costing is marked up for the purpose of negotiation.
9.1.4.2 Pre-production costing After the order confirmation the buyer decides the
rate at which it will pay the company. Using this cost as the basis costing is done so
as to ensure considerable profits. The costing at this stage mainly consists of
material cost, CMT charges (Cut Make Trim) and profit. It is necessary at this stage
to adjust the cost at lowest possible. To meet such requirements tries to keep a
control on the consumption quantity of materials. The CMT charges are calculated
department wise as per the machinery and labour invested. The CMT charges are
also affected by the purchase of new machinery for the manufacturing of the order.
CMT = {(SAM of garment) X (cost/min of factory)}/ efficiency (expected)
Cost/min of factory It is the cost of running the factory for a min.
These details are sent to the HO for compilation of cost for the order.
9.1.4.3 Final costing This costing is the final costing done at the completion of
order to calculate the cost incurred for order completion. Using reconciliation
statements of various departments such as stores, cutting, sewing, finishing and
packaging final costing is done to compare the cost with the one given at preproduction phase. Any kind of revision in consumption of materials and work
investment that are done in-house is highlighted. If the revision is incurred due to the
demands of the buyer then the cost for that is added to the buyers cost. The final
objective of this costing is to determine profit or loss that factory incur.
59
9.1.5 Capacity planning The IE does capacity planning during the pre-production
phase in which it prepares a plan for production on monthly basis depending upon
the capacity available in the factory. Capacity booking consists of balancing work
between different work departments such as cutting, sewing, embroidery, printing,
finishing and packaging depending upon their available capacities.
9.1.5.1 Capacity booking In capacity booking it is checked whether the
departments in the factory can meet the production requirements of the orders. It
also helps in determining if the orders are to be executed in-house or be given for
job-work. The capacity booking depends upon constraints such as machinery and
production capacity available. It also helps in planning the work as per capacity and
helps in deciding the time period up to which production shall take place depending
upon various variables. In this the requisition of new machinery is also looked after if
required.
9.1.5.2 Learning curve The learning curve is used for estimating the production
timeline and efficiency at which a style will be produced. There are four types of
learning curves:
Fast
Rapid
Normal
Slow
The type of learning curve used to estimate the production pick-up is determined by
the styling of the garment. Easier the style steeper (faster) the learning curves.
9.1.5.3 Production feasibility IE checks the production feasibility for a style
during the sampling stages by checking the machine and attachment requirements.
Feasibility is also decided on the basis of the complex styling of the garment.
9.1.5.4 Build up plan A build up plan is a plan made up of daily production targets
in advance for an order based upon Efficiency, Learning curve, Capacity and other
production variables. It is represented in a timeline format with daily as well as
cumulative production target. It is prepared separately for each department.
60
61
QUALITY
SEWING
CAD
IE
FABRIC
STORE
PROD.
MERCHANDISING
PPC
MAINTAINENCE
Quality - The IE sends the machine layout to the Quality department for the
purpose of identifying in-line check points in accordance to buyer comments.
PPC The IE in coordination with the PPC department does the planning for
production. Capacity planning, booking and production timeline is done in
coordination with the PPC. Time and action calendar prepared by PPC is
used as a reference for planning production. The IE dept also makes the
62
CAD The CAD department makes the marker plan on the basis of which the
IE calculates the consumption.
63
64
QUALITY
PPC
SAMPLING
FINISHING
&
PACKAGING
PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING
PRINTING
FABRIC
STORE
CAD
EMBROIDERY
65
CAD The merchandiser provides tech-pack details, size ratios and grading
details for preparing the patterns and marker plan.
66
OCM
PLANNING
TNA
CONTROLLING
11.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY
11.2.1 Pre production phase
After OCM details of the order are sent to the production merchandiser who in turn
sends it to the PPC department. PPC department then starts the planning in order to
determine the timeline during which each production activity has to be performed. To
meet this purpose the PPC works in co-ordination with the IE department for
capacity booking and planning. As per the capacity booking the planning for the inhouse production is done. TNA action calendar is prepared accordingly to determine
the duration for each activity. The TNA calendar consists of various dates such as
sample approval, fabric booking, fabric receiving, production cut date, final
inspection and shipment. A 90 day lead time on an average is taken for order
completion. The FI (final inspection) date is calculated as three day before the
shipment date. The PCD (production cut date) is determined by backward
calculations from the FI date and the days required for production purpose. The
period between the order booking and the PCD is utilized for sampling and material
procurement. The days required for production is calculated on the basis of capacity,
efficiency, labour turnover, learning curve and other production variables.
67
68
12. EMBROIDERY
12.1 PROCESS FLOW
ARTWORK
FROM BUYER
SAMPLING
APPROVAL
MASS
PRODUCTION
12.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW
PIECES FROM CUTTING
TESTING
EMBROIDERY
THREAD CUTTER
QUALTY INSPECTION
TO CUTTING
69
70
PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING
EMBROIDERY
CUTTING
QUALITY
CUTTING The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which
embroidery is required and receives the output.
EMBROIDERY
No. of shifts
No. of Workers
30
Storage
Racks 10
Area
Tubelights
30 (15 X 2)
Machinery
13. PRINTING
13.1 PROCESS FLOW
ARTWORK
FROM BUYER
PREPARATION
OF SCREEN
SAMPLING
APPROVAL
MASS
PRODUCTION
PIECES FROM
CUTTING
PREPARATION
OF COLOUR
PRINTING
CURING
QUALTY
INSPECTION
TO CUTTING
72
Plastic-sol print
Discharge print
Glitter print
Foil print
Pigment print
The common printing technique used for these prints is screen printing. The artwork
from the buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that
artwork on the Adobe Photoshop CS3 software. The artwork is redeveloped, Screen
prepared and samples are made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling
phase the printing on the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork and the
colors are selected as per the pantone chips sent by the buyer. During production
the pieces requiring printing are received in bundle form. Printing is done on some of
the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After
checking printing on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for curing.
These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting
department.
Types of colours used are of two type water base and oil based. PVC free and
Pigment are water based while Plastic-sol is oil based. Screens are prepared UV
light exposure method. The screen fabric used is 15T to 180T. They can be of
maximum size 3 X 2. The fabric is fastened on the frame and a chemical (Diazo
cure) is applied all over the screen. Then the screen is semi-cured in a heater. The
design is printed on a water-proof film and is placed centrally aligned on the screen.
The screen is then placed in an exposing machine (Nu-arc Tri-light) and exposed in
UV light. The areas not covered by design harden and become black while the other
areas remain transparent. Then the screen is washed and cured and checked on the
touching table, if required re-exposing is done. The screen is then fitted on the
machine and the required color is prepared. Before beginning with the mass
production a sample printing is done to check whether the required colour is
obtained or not. Then batch-wise printing is done on the printing machine. There are
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three screen printing machines of which two are automatic and one is manual. Up-to
10 colour printing can be done on the manual while in the automatic 10-16 colours
can be applied. The machine rotates the garment piece under the screen heads. The
screens descend on the pieces and automatic squeezing system applies colours.
The number of strokes and number of squeeze depend upon the shade required.
After printing the pieces are cured on a continuous curing machine. Then the pieces
are checked, re-bundled and sent back to cutting.
PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING
PRINTING
CUTTING
QUALITY
CUTTING The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which
printing is required and receives the output.
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PRINTING
No. of shifts
No. of Workers
26
Storage
Racks 8
Area
Tubelights
28 (14 x 2)
Machinery
DigikoteT
machine
1 chamber heater.
Eye washer
Washing machine
Weighing machine
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automatic
coating
Store departments use MM modules for inward and outward. The production
departments such as cutting, sewing and finishing use the PP module for recording
input and output. SD module is used by marketing and sales departments. The FI
module is used by finance, accounts and administration department. Various other
reports are maintained manually using MS-excel other than ERP for backup
purpose. Major reports maintained are:
14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report)
14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report)
14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report)
14.1.4 End-line report (hourly)
14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR)
14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units)
14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly)
14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly)
14.1.9 Incentive reports
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14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report) A daily factory report is compiled at the end of
the day. The report contains detailed production statistics of the work departments
cutting, sewing, finishing, embroidery, printing and packaging. The production is
compiled buyer/style-wise and line-wise. This report overall view of production of the
factory.
14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report) An efficiency report is maintained line-wise
on daily basis for a month.
14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report) A DPR is maintained on daily basis
buyer-wise and line-wise for all the work activities performed. The DPR defers from
the DFR as it represents size-wise details of each work activity.
14.1.4 End-line report (hourly) End-line report is maintained for each line on an
hourly basis for end-line production.
14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR) The daily rejection report is maintained for both
sewing and finishing.
14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units) The DHU
percentage is measured as the amount of defects per hundred units produced. The
DHU is important for the purpose of quality control and to identify major/frequently
occurring departments. The defects are classified and recorded respectively and
line-wise.
14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) The report
is compiled for the purpose of assessments and learning curve developments.
14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) This report is
maintained date-wise and line-wise. It contains the efficiency and the production
achieved in a particular style. At the end of the style production a summary is
compiled to know the average efficiency at which the style was produced. This
bakchod report helps in future projections for capacity booking and planning
purpose.
14.1.9 Incentive reports This is generated on daily basis for calculating and
recording incentives line-wise.
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PROJECT OBJECTIVE:
To optimize thread consumption calculations using calculator
METHODOLOGY:
Development of thread
cosumption calculator
Implementation
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INTRODUCTION
It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so as to
estimate requirements for manufacturing finished product. Thread consumption can
be determined in several ways. To calculate the amount of thread in a seam:
1) Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.
2) Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas
based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch.
3) Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.
If different types of threads are used in the garment then its necessary to
differentiate the consumption per thread. This differentiation is done at the seam
calculation stages when the consumption per seam is calculated by the help of
consumption percentages for needle bobbin and loopers per machine type. If in case
spreader is used in case of flatlocks then the consumption for looper and spreader is
evenly distributed.
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Sl.
No
Factor
Machine name
(per cm)
%needle
%looper/bbn
2.5
50%
50%
50%
50%
5.5
25%
75%
11
25%
75%
22
25%
75%
24
20%
80%
15
20%
80%
18
25%
75%
20
20%
80%
10
18
30%
70%
11
25
30%
70%
12
28
30%
70%
13
100%
0%
14
Welt pocket
50%
50%
15
50%
50%
16
3.5
100%
0%
17
11
30%
70%
18
16.5
30%
70%
19
Bartack
50
77%
23%
20
Button hole
50
75%
25%
21
Buttoning
40
100%
0%
22
Picotting stitch
28
25%
75%
23
Blind hemming
100%
0%
24
28
20%
80%
26
Smocking
100%
0%
25
Radial tacking
50
27
8.5
28
Fagotting stitch
5.5
*The factors table for machines and the various distribution factors have been developed by the industry personnel (IE dept)
Alok industries Ltd(Garments division Saily,Silvassa).
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calculating consumption
I.E. dept. receives the garments from the merchandiser after the approval for fit/size
set is received. The calculation for consumption (fabric, thread) and S.A.M value is
done following the receival.
2. Formation of operation bulletin
The first step in thread consumption calculation is the formulation of the operation
bulletin(OB).This helps in identification of various seams used in the garment.
3. Measurement of the seams and recording
The seams identified in the previous step are measured using measuring tape. The
measured seams are recorded accordingly. The measurements are carried out in
centimetres (cms). This iis usually done to ease the work of calculation as
the
excel
sheet
format is developed
for the purpose of
calculation.
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8. Calculating consumption
The thread consumption per seam is calculated using the formula:
Total consumption (mts) = (seam-length (S.L)(cm) X factor(per cm)/100) X No. of seams
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Wastage percentage
Seam-Length measurement
The seam length is an important factor influencing thread consumption. Seam length
also determines how much waste and extra per seam of thread will be consumed.
Preferably extra length is taken so as to consider the wastage during making the
seam.
Wastage percentage
The wastage percentage is an important factor that helps determining the wastage
required to cover the waste during production. Generally the wastage is taken to be
30 % of total consumptions.
Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader)
The distribution of thread per seam (i.e. needle /bobbin/spreader), is a necessity for
the purpose of determining and quantifying the amount of thread required. Any
variation in the distribution can lead to less/more consumption of a particular thread.
Type of seam/Garment and fabric type
The consumption also depends on the type of seam as different seams have
different factors and thus the consumption variates. Any error in identification can
lead to wrong consumption calculations. Consumptions also depend on the fabric
type and garment construction technique as a light weight and difficult constructed
seam have more consumptions as there are chances of error occurrences in them.
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TESTING
IMPLEMENTATION
DEVELOPMENT
DESIGNING
CONCEPTUALIZING
5.1 CONCEPTUALIZING
In this process the concept of the calculator was developed. The inputs and and
outputs required for the calculator have been designed in a way to reduce errors in
calculation to maximum extent.
The inputs required in the calculator are limited to that of seam length,operation
bulletin and number of seams. Combo-box list provide a more easy way of machine
selection for particular seam type.The selection of threads for needle ,bobbin and
spreader have also been provided
accurate selections.
Formulas in corresponding columns of needle, bobbin/looper,spreader and total
consumption provide automatic calculations by retrival of factors automatically from
the factor sheet.
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5.2 DESIGNING
The calculator has been developed by keeping in mind a user friendly interface that
can easily be understood and used by anyone.
The calculator has been designed in worksheets using various linking , formula and
programming features of excel.
Consumptions for up to 15 Thread types can be determined by entering their
description in the thread description table.
Seventy five (75) rows have been provided to cover long operation bulletins.
Option for saving the consumption calculation file in user determined named location
has been provided.
Reset field option has been provided for instantly clearing field entries.
A generate report option has also been provided for the purpose of automatic report
generation.
Combo box controls have been used in columns of machine type ,needle,bobbin and
spreader thread description, wastage selection for the purpose of easy and quick
selection.
Linking between factor sheet and the main interface has been done using formulas
such that automatic retrieval of factors is
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5.3 DEVELOPMENT
SUM()[mathematical]
IF()[logical]
OR()[logical]
ISERROR(information)
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5.3.4.2
Referencing
Cell referencing has been used in order to reference values from one cell to another
for purpose of creating the report, calculations and retrieve values in controls.
5.3.4.3
Programming tools
Visual basic controls like command button and combo box list have been used for
the purpose of proving various functional features.
Combo boxes have been used in columns like m/c selection, spreader used, needle,
bobbin and spreader thread descriptions. These boxes help in easy and quick
selection.
Command buttons have been used to provide functionality such as saving, resetting
fields and generating the report.
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6. Testing
The calculator had been tested for its functionality by calculating the consumptions
for previous, running and forthcoming styles in order to confirm and compare the
results with the already calculated values so as to determine its reliability and error
free functioning.
The following previously produced styles have been tested
S.no
Style no.
Consumption
Consumption
(calculator)
(manual)
variation
1.
MB2196
99.236
99.349
0.11
2.
8623
174.850
174.85
3.
SAW 406
92.625
91.325
-1.42
4.
Dear hood
184.795
187.265
1.31
5.
8081
179.712
179.712
6.
EG 56
163.852
163.852
7.
Asahi
139.328
140.627
0.923
8.
FP002
221.033
221.292
0.11
9.
Bjornklader
254.475
254.475
10.
8054
505.81
505.81
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CONCLUSION /DELIVERABLES
The thread consumption calculator is an easy to use and efficient tool to calculate
thread consumptions. The calculator provides a hassle free interface for selection. A
standard format helps in data entry purposes. A human error in data entry reduces to
only the seam lengths, number of seams and the seam type.
calculated. It also reduces the merchandisers work of compiling the consumption for
order quantities based on the consumption per garment given by IE. The report can
also be helpful in thread booking purposes which can be sent to the thread store by
the merchandiser from where the thread store can proceed with the process of
thread booking.
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LEARNING EXPERIENCE
The internship in many ways provided a platform for new experiences in terms of
industrial exposure as well as personal experiences in terms of tour and travel to
new places and accommodating ourselves into the busy schedules which otherwise
are not experienced in college. Industrial exposure not only drove our curiosity to
know more than our limited textual knowledge but even compelled to get ourselves
involved in the process as a whole. The project undertaken by us exposed us to the
actual working feel and conditions and helped us to tune according to the industry
needs. We first were allowed to observe as much and then our doubts were cleared.
Various communication techniques and industrial practices which are important for
professional behaviour were learnt through our interactions with the industry officials.
Our Interactions with our mentor Mr. Samuel Mupavvarapu were motivational and a
inspirational interaction that fuelled our curiosity for internship with full confidence
and dedication. The managers to whom we were entrusted to meet to learn about
the respective dept.s were under huge pressures of work but never did it happen
that anyone would deny us any answer to the query which we would ask them at
any point of time, their such generous nature helped us getting the information we
required time to time.
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