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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Internship at Alok
Industries Ltd Garments
Division, Saily, 2010

Submitted and compiled


By
Ashish Kumar Annepu, Lalit Kishore Singh

B.F.Technology (Apparel Production)


Semester -7(Batch 2007 - 2011)
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We, Ashish Kumar Annepu and Lalit Kishore Singh of NIFT Hyderabad express our in depth
gratitude to Mr. SANDEEP MAHAJAN (VP garments) and Mr. SAMUEL MUPPAVARAPU
(IE HOD) of Saily plant for guiding us along with road map before and throughout the
training.
We are heartily thanking to below member of Alok Vapi HR Team for extending their
courtesy & guideline during our stay with Alok industries Vapi.

Mr. Suresh Bhardwaj

Mr. Dinesh Salaskar

Mr. Suresh Soni

Further we are thankful to following of Alok Garments Production team for giving us technical
and functional knowhow and support during our entire training duration.
Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu (Training Mentor).

Mr. Pratap Rout -

Fabric store

Mr. Bharat Upadhayay-

Accessory store

Mr. Rahesh D Choudhary-

Thread store

Ms. Roshni Bamani-

Sampling (Woven)

Mr. Yogesh Srivastava-

Sampling (Knits)

Mr. Rakesh Datta-

CAD department

Mr. Rajendra D Patidar-

Spreading and Cutting

Mr. Harendra Rana-

Sewing /Production (knits)

Mr. Pravin Khavade

Sewing/Production (woven)

Mr. Subhash Bhandaari-

Quality

Mr. Shiva Gateyar-

Finishing/Packaging

Mr. Hetal Kamkhaliya-

Maintenance

Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu-

Industrial engineering

Mr. Moinuddin Sheikh-

Production Merchandising

Mr. Pradeep Godhaniya-

Production planning and control

Mr. Arvind Ranmale-

Embroidery

Mr.Anandan Naidu-

Printing

Mr. Amit Pareikh-

IT
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

We would also like to thank our Honourable Director Mr K.S .Pratap and Respected
Registrar Mr D. Rajesham and the following faculties for guiding us through from the
beginning and successful completion of our internship Ms. Sharmila Sure (Course Coordinator-DFT dept ,Internship mentor)

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

PART 1

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

INTRODUCTION
B F Tech at NIFT is a very practical oriented course that equips students with all the
necessary skill sets that the industry expects. As a part of the course a two month internship
at a garmennt firm is mandated,

which aims at imparting a practical

understanding of

various processes related aspects of the sector. Internship enables students to get a better
understanding of a company, correlate theory with practice, provides an opportunity to study
and organsiation and its products and processes and also gaining knowledge on its
functioning.
We chose to pursue the internship at M/S Alok Industries Garments division at Saily,
Silvassa. This company is Indias largest vertically integrated mill with an envious export
record accompanied by a dominant position in the domestic market.
In compilation of this Internship report, all out efforts have been made to present a
comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Alok Industries in the garment unit

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1. Company profile
1.1 Introduction
Alok industries Ltd is one of Indias largest Vertically Integrated Company. It is head
quartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in Vapi, Silvassa & Navi Mumbai.
The company is an end to end provider of integrated textile solutions with five core
divisions: - Cotton yarn, Apparel fabrics, Home textiles, and Garment and Polyester
yarns.

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.2 History & evolution

Alok industries were established in 1986 as a


private limited company, with its first polyester
text rising plant being set up in 1989. It became a
public limited company in 1993.
Over the years, it has expanded into weaving,
knitting, processing, home textiles and garments
and to ensure quality and cost efficiencies they
have integrated backward into cotton spinning and manufacturing partially oriented yarn
through the continuous polymerization route. It also provides embroidered products
through Grabal Alok Impex Ltd., their associate company which is the main reason for their
evolution into a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles, garments, apparel
fabrics and polyester yarns, selling directly to manufacturers, exporters, importers, retailers
and to some of the worlds top brands. Alok has recently entered the domestic retail
segment through a wholly owned subsidiary, Alok Retail India Limited, with a chain of
stores named H&A that offer garments and home textiles at attractive price points.

1.3 Vision of the organization


To be the world's best- integrated textile solutions enterprise with leadership position
across products and markets, exceeding customer & stakeholder expectation.

1.4 Mission of the organization


The company aims at achieving the following objectives:

Offer innovative, customized and value added services to customers.

Actively explore potential markets & products.

Optimize use of all resources

Maximize people development initiatives

Become a process driven organization

Be a knowledge leader and an innovator in the businesses

Exceed compliances and global quality standards

Be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization


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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2. ORGANISATION CHART/HIERARCHY

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3. PROCESS FLOW AT GARMENTS DIVISION

OCM

TNA

CAD

SAMPLING

R&D

OB

As per TNA
material
procurement

Pattern and
marker

Fit sample

Tech-Pack
analysis

Capacity
booking

Fabric

Fabric
consumption

size set

Machine
details

Learning
curve

PP sample

Needle and
attachment
details

Build up plan

Pattern
details

Thread
consumption

Trims

Other
accessories

Cutting

Embroidery

Printing
Sewing

Finishing

Dispatch

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Part 2

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

GARMENTS DIVISION

The garments division consists of the following departments:


1. Fabric , Accessory and thread store
2. Sampling (Woven and Knits)
3. CAD department
4. Spreading and Cutting
5. Sewing /Production
6. Quality
7. Finishing/Packaging
8. Maintenance
9. Industrial engineering
10. Production Merchandising
11. Production planning and control
The other auxiliary departments consists of
12. Embroidery
13. Printing
14. IT
These departments work in coordination with each other for the purpose of fulfilling
the objective of quality and mass produced garments or Apparels

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.1 FABRIC STORE


1.1.1 PROCESS FLOW

Fabric Receive against DC


from Mill

Making Challan In-word

Physical Recording

Quality Checking

Receive of Actual
Consumption as per IE Dept.

Issue the fabric to cutting


against DC

Reconciliation for Fabric


against Particular Order.

In-word and Out-word Stock


Record (Physical)

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.1.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY


The goods are received and unloaded at the unloading bay. The fabrics are received
and stacked in TO BE INSPECTED area. Physical check is done on the received
goods to confirm details like Style No, colour, P.O.no, weight per lot; etc which are
provided in the PI(Production information) sheet. Physical check is done for 100% of
the received quantity/stock. A sample swatch from the bulk is sent to buyer for
approval. After Physical check the goods are transferred to their respective storage
areas after which quality inspection is done. Quality inspection consists of checking
the actual GSM, shrinkage, shade and colour continuity card using various testing
tools. The colour continuity card is used for the purpose of dividing the fabric into
various batches for avoiding shade variation within garment /batches. First Quality
inspection is done on 10% of the quantity using Four point system. If the inspection
criteria are not met then again 15-20% of the remaining quantity is checked. Fabrics
that fail the inspection criteria are sent back to the mill for replacements as the fabric
sourcing is in-house. A fabric checking machine is used for woven garments
whereas for knits physical checking is done. Quality inspection takes around 2 days
to complete. If one particular lot fails then fabric Dept must have details like weight of
the lot and Storage area etc. Lot passed with Four point system either has to be
issued to cutting with the DC as against the actual consumption determined by IE
Dept. The Dept also maintains the Reconciliation Report for each Style for
referencing. Record maintenance of the In-word, Out-word and Stock Record for
each Style is maintained both physically and in computerized formats. Fabric Trim
chart is also developed style wise to confirm required fabrics are received. Sampling
fabric for sampling purposes is stored in racks different from bulk fabrics. The fabric
dept mainly communicates with cutting, merchandising, IE, sampling for performing
its responsibilities.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.1.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

IE

DISPATCH

SAMPLING

FABRIC
STORE

PPC

QUALITY

PROD.
MERCHANDISING

IT

CUTTING

IE dept- Fabric details like length (woven), diameter/width and GSM (knits)
are sent to IE for consumption determination.

PPC dept- Fabric receival date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC
for planning and scheduling.

Quality dept- Quality inspections are carried out and sent for verification and
approvals.

Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the


fabric received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.

IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.

Sampling dept- The fabric for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store. These fabrics are specially kept and checked to ensure
quality.

Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the fabric coming into the factory and
outward of the fabric lot going back to the mill from store is maintained by the
dispatch.

Cutting dept- The cutting department relies on the store for quality clearance
and issue of the fabric for cutting purposes.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

FABRIC STORE DETAILS


No. of shifts

No. of Workers

11

No. of Quality Personnel

Area Covered

19260sft (180 x109)

Capacity

50 tonnes

Machinery

1. One Fabric inspection machine (MakeYash co.) (with meterage counter)Hydro


Trolley

MIS

SAP (MIGO Module)

Storage

1. Racks (5) (sample fabrics)


2. Pliers (500 kg)

Tables

Four Inspection Tables (12 X 6 X 3)

Tubelights

160 (80 X 2)

Fans

40

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.2 ACCESSORY STORE


1.2.1 PROCESS FLOW

Trims received

Physical check

Storage

Receival of
consumption from IE

Issue to sewing
/cutting

RECO for stock

In-word and Out-word


Stock Record (Physical)

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.2.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES


Trims and accessories are received in bulk at the fabric store where physical
accounting of the stock is done. Visual quality inspection is carried out for the 100%
of the stock. Inspection consists of checking the physical properties like colour,
shape, size and design. This inspection takes around 48-36 hrs to complete. An
inspection report is sent to the quality, IE and PPC departments. The inspected stock
is brought to the accessory store for storage. Movable four level racks are used for
storage purposes with the name of buyer on them to store the trims respectively. A
trim chart is also maintained style wise for tracking their receivals. The accessory
store issues trims as per indent. The rejected stock is returned to the vendor as the
sourcing is not in-house. In-ward/out-ward, issue and RECO are maintained on a
daily basis.
1.2.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

SAMPLING

DISPATCH
(INWARD OUTWARD)

PROD MERCHANDISING

ACCESSORY
STORE

PPC
(TRACKING)

IT
(MIS)

SEWING/CUTTING

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

PPC dept- Trims received date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC
for planning and scheduling.

Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the trims


received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.

IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.

Sampling dept- The trims for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store.

Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the trims coming into the factory and
outward of the trim lot going back to the vendor from store is maintained by
the dispatch.

Cutting/Sewing dept- The departments rely on the store for issue of the trims
for cutting/sewing purposes.

ACCESSORY STORE DETAILS


No. of shifts

No. of Workers

No. of Quality Personnel

Area Covered

972sft (54 x18)

Storage

Eleven Movable Racks (4 level) (Kompact


systems) ((70 X 30 X 104)/rack)

MIS

SAP (MIGO Module)

Machinery

Digital weighing machine

Tables

Two Inspection Tables (12 X 6 X 3)

Tubelights

20(10 X 2)

Fans

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.3 THREAD STORE


1.3.1 PROCESS FLOW
Thread to Order
received

Colour matching

Approval from
Merchandiser

Purchase Requisition
sheet (manual)

PR Approval

PR registration

Generate P.O

Thread ordering

Received

Inspection

Storage

Issue

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.3.2 ISSUAL PROCESS FLOW


Requisition slip

Thread cones
/boxes issued

Issue slip entry

Bin card entry


in thread stack

1.3.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES


Thread booking is directly done from the factory store. The production merchandiser
provides the consumption details for a particular order along with thread samples.
Colour matching is done using the fabric swatch. Vendor thread card and thread
samples are compared and the matching threads are attached on the swatch and
sent to merchandiser for approval. After the approval, a manual purchase requisition
(P.R) sheet is prepared and approved from the merchandiser. P.R registration is
done on SAP. Purchase Department prepares the Purchase Order (P.O) and places
the order. The order quantity is received at the thread store and undergoes physical
check against P.O. Inspection is also done for checking quantity per cone, colour or
shade and various other thread properties. After inspection threads are stored stack
wise. Each thread stack has a BIN CARD which is used for record purposes.
Thread issue is done when a requisition slip is received from sewing line. The
required quantity is issued in form of cone or boxes of ten cones. Issued quantity is
recorded on the issue slip and filed. Successively entries are recorded on the Bin
Card. Bin Card provides all details of thread issued and the quantity left in the stack
date wise.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.3.4 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

SAMPLING

DISPATCH
(INWARD
OUTWARD)

PROD.
MERCHANDISING

THREAD
STORE

PPC
(TRACKING)

IT
(MIS)

SEWING

PPC dept- Thread received date, quantity and other details are sent to the
PPC for planning and scheduling.

Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the


thread received and also receives the consumption and thread details of
orders.

IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.

Sampling dept- The thread for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store.

Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the thread coming into the factory and
outward of the thread going back to the vendor from store is maintained by
the dispatch.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

THREAD STORE DETAILS


No. of shifts

No. of Workers

No. of Quality Personnel

Area Covered

600sft(20X30)

MIS

SAP (MIGO Module)

Storage

8 Movable racks

Tables

Tubelights

16(8X2)

Fans

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2. SAMPLING (WOVEN AND KNITS)


2.1 PROCESS FLOW FOR FIT SAMPLING

TECH PACK FROM


MERCHANDISER

FIT SAMPLE

BUYER
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL

SIZE SET

COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL

PRE PRODUCTION
SAMPLE

BUYER
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.2 PROCESS FLOW FOR CONCEPT SAMPLING

TECH PACK

CONCEPT SAMPLE

RED SEAL SAMPLE

APPROVAL

BLACK SEAL SAMPLE

GOLD SEAL SAMPLE

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.3 PROCESS FLOW IN SAMPLING

TECH PACK
ANALYSIS

PATTERN MAKING

FABRIC ANALYSIS

SAMPLE CUTTING

SAMPLE
CONSTRUCTION

FINISHING AND
PACKAGING

MERCHANDISER

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.4 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY


The department is responsible for making various samples for buyer approvals.
Sampling starts right after Order Confirmation Meeting (OCM). The buyer tech-packs
are sent to the production merchandiser who in coordination with sampling
department develops requisite samples or re-engineers the existing one. Based on
the requirement of buyer various samples are prepared before production.
Department analyzes the tech-pack received and prepares patterns accordingly on
CAD (Computer Aided Design) or manually. During the pattern making fabric
analysis is done and ordered for sample development. Accordingly samples are cut
and tailor stitched. After the samples are created they are sent to the merchandiser
for buyer approval. The comments given by the buyer are analyzed and acted upon.
Sampling ensures that anything that goes into production is approved with no further
changes. The tailors are in three groups with each group developing single sample.
The approved fit sample is sent to the IE department for production feasibility and
costing purposes. After confirmation on the PP sample the production merchandiser
creates the PI sheet including buyer comments received. Records regarding
incoming fabric, samples developed and samples despatched are maintained on a
regular basis.

2.5 TERMINOLOGIES

Tech-pack- It is a document provided by the buyer that contains details such


as measurements, fabric and trim details, technical and construction details
and packaging details.

Samples- The various types of samples prepared are:

o Fit sample- It is the first sample developed in compliance with the spec
sheet. It is optional to create the sample using substitute fabric and
trims. Usually fit samples are of middle range size. Fit approvals are
required from the buyer on this sample.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

o Size set- This consists of a group of four to five graded sizes. This is
required to obtain approval on the grading of sizes. Any comments
received on fit samples are applied here. These samples are made
from actual fabric, trims and packaging materials exactly as per techpack.
o Pre-Production (pp) sample- This is the final sample developed with
all comments received from the buyer using actual trims and fabric.
This is the last sample in which changes from buyer is accepted. This
sample acts as reference for production. It is developed with strict
adherence to the tech pack. After approval a FFP (fit for production)
seal is put up on it. It then is called the FFP sample.
o TOP (top of production) sample- This sample is the top most sample
from the pilot run from a real production line. Buyer approval is required
on this sample in order to proceed further. The purpose of the sample
is to determine whether all requirements are met while mass
production.
o Concept sample- It is the first sample created in order to present the
fit and concept of the garment. It may be developed in substitute fabric
and trims. The measurements can be in tolerance range.
o Red seal- This is similar to size set samples of two to three sizes with
fit conformance. The sample can be developed in substitute fabric and
trims.
o Black seal- It is similar to the PP sample and is made of actual fabric
and trims. This sample is optional and is developed on buyer demand.
o Gold seal- This sample is similar to TOP sample and is required to
determine if all specifications are met during production.

Photo shoot sample- This sample is developed for buyers marketing and
advertising purpose. It has to be made from actual fabric and trims. It is
developed in between Fit and PP samples.

Salesman sample- (SMS Sample) This sample is developed in quantities of


8-12 garments. These samples are required by the buyer for his marketing
purposes. These samples are exactly as per tech packs on actual fabric and
trims.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.6 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PROD.
MERCHANDISING

FABRIC,THREAD,
ACCESSORY
STORE

QUALITY

SAMPLING

PRINTING

EMBROIDERY

PROD. MERCHANDISING- The department co-ordinates with the sampling


department during sample development for buyer requirements and approvals
and another follow ups.

QUALITY- Quality department receives all critical buyer comments regarding


quality on PP samples for the purpose of quality control.

EMBROIDERY-

The

department

provides

sampling

with

requisite

embroideries as per buyer need.

PRINTING- The department provides sampling with requisite prints as per


buyer need.

FABRIC, THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE- The required fabric trims and


accessories are issued to sampling department from these stores.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

SAMPLING (woven and knits)


No. of shifts

No. of Workers

30

No. of Pattern master

Area Covered

3700 sft ((75 X 18) X 2)

Machinery

1. Flat locks (Pegasus)-8


2. Over lock (Pegasus)-10
3. Feed of the arm(Kansai special)-3
4. SNLS(Juki)-17
5. 1 Riveting m/c(Tony)
6. 1 straight knife(Blue streak)
7. 1 Ramsons veit iron table
8. 1 Picotting m/c (Pegasus)
9. 1 buttonhole (Juki)
10. 1 buttoning m/c (Juki)

MIS

SAP and excel sheets

Storage

2 racks

Tables

2 pattern making tables

Tubelights

54 tubes

Fans

15

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

Average process Lead times

Fit sample- 2 to 3 days


Revised sampling- 2 to 3 days
Size set sample- 15 days
PP sample- 3-5 days

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3. CAD (Computer Aided Designing)


3.1 PROCESS FLOW

Tech-pack from
sampling

Base Pattern
development

Grading

Size set pattern

Ammend Size set

Final pattern

Marker making

Calculate
consumption (IE)

Revised Marker
making

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES


The cad department receives tech-packs from sampling department for
pattern development. The patterns are developed as per the spec sheet with
style details. The patterns are developed using Gerber Accumark PDS (8.2.1)
Package. Patterns developed manually are digitized using a digitizer (Gerber
Digitizer). The patterns prepared on the CAD are plotted on a plotting paper
by a Gerber Plotter. The plotted patterns are cut-out manually and pasted on
cardboard. These patterns are used for quality checking, referencing,
sampling purposes and cutting. After pattern development marker making is
done on AccuNest by importing the pattern pieces and placing them as per
the ratio in the tech-packs. The marker document consists of details such as
length, width and percentage utilization along with a pictorial diagram of
marker plan. During sampling stage the marker plan is sent to the IE
department for consumption calculations. A revised marker plan is made after
the bulk fabric has been received in the fabric store. The revised marker is
made on the basis of the actual diameter/width received and sent to the IE
department for revised consumption calculation. The final marker plan is
prepared and sent to the cutting section with the sealed patterns. The CAD
keeps the previously made patterns for future referencing in a stack.

3.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PROD.
MERCHANDISIN
G

QUALITY

IT

CAD

CUTTING

SAMPLING

IE

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

PROD. MERCHANDISING- The merchandiser checks the developed patterns


and also suggests changes if required to comply with the buyer needs.

QUALITY- Quality department receives the sealed patterns for quality control
of cut pieces from cutting.

CUTTING- The cutting receives the marker plan and pattern pieces for
cutting.

IE- IE calculates the fabric consumption as per the marker plan developed so
as to determine and confirm the fabric consumption.

SAMPLING- Development of pattern pieces for the purpose of sample


development is done by CAD

IT- It maintains Network layout between Gerber Cutter and the CAD, and the
software and hardware.

CAD
No. of shifts

No. of Pattern Master

No. of Marker Makers

Area Covered

96 sft (12 X 8)

Machinery

1. Gerber digitizer (16 button cursor)


2. Gerber Plotter (Infinity series)
3. 4 Desktops

CAD Software

Gerber Accumark

PDS

AccuNest

Storage

Racks-2

Tables

Tubelights

14 (7 X 2)

Fans

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

4. SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT


4.1 PROCESS FLOW
PI SHEET

SIZE SET CUTTING

QUALITY CONTROL
INSPECTION

SIZE SET APPROVAL

PRODUCTION
PROGRAMME
FABRIC ISSUE
REQUISITION

FABRIC ISSUE

SPREADING

CUTTING

TICKETING

BUNDLING

STORAGE

ISSUE
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

4.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES


The cutting department receives the PI sheet from the Production
Merchandiser which contains all the details of the order. Accordingly before
mass cutting sample cutting of size set (jump sizes) is done and sent to
quality department for approval. After receiving approval on the size set lay
order plan/production programme is prepared and sent to the CAD, cutting
and the spreader. The lay order plan is prepared as per the ratio to be cut and
the quantity to be cut. The spreader refers to the lay order plan for the length,
the number of plies and lays for spreading. Spreading is done either by
automatic spreader (Gerber XLS 50) or manually. Spreading for solid fabrics
is done by automatic spreader while for yarn dyed fabrics and striped fabrics
it is done manually. The spreading is done batch wise so as to avoid any
shade variation. Batch changes during spreading are differentiated using
fabric strips running across the length of the lay. No splicing is done and the
end bits that are left are used for the purpose of preparing piping. Relaxation
spreading of shrinkable fabrics is done. These are left as spread for 12-24 hrs
to relax and reduce the effect of shrinkage after cutting. Spreading for stripes,
yarn dyed fabrics is done in short lay lengths matching for stripes.
Cutting for solid and All Over Print (AOP) fabrics is done on automatic cutter
(Gerber GT7250). The cutter is movable between 3 spreading tables from
where the fabric lays are fed by air floatation. Cutting for yarn dyed, checks
and stripes are cut by Block cutting. Blocks according to size of patterns are
cut using a straight knife (Blue streak). The pattern pieces which can be cut
on fold are widthwise folded individually and layering done and cut using half
pattern pieces. It is also known as recutting. The cut pieces are transferred to
the QC table where cut pieces are randomly selected from the lot and verified
with original patterns. Checked lots are then sent for ticketing.
Ticketing is done to identify the lay number, batch and size. These tickets are
necessary to avoid shade variation and piece mix-match. Ticketing is done
using ticketing machines on each part and piece. After ticketing all the parts
of the garment are bought together and bundled as per their sizes and batch.
A Bundle ticket is attached to the bundle which contains details like, number
of pieces in bundle, lay number details, batch and other order details. Parts
that require fusing, embroidery or printing are separately bundled and sent to
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

respective departments. After the auxiliary processes are complete these


pieces are returned to cutting and bundled along with other garment pieces
and sent for production. The cutting also reworking section that replaces the
cutting rejects from the sewing line with fresh pieces of same batch. In case
of rejections of garments from finishing the cutting provides extra cut pieces
with the fabric available to fulfill the order quantity. Piping for binding
purposes is prepared using piping cutter machines of requisite widths. For
this the end bits are stitched to form tubular fabrics on over lock stitching
machines.
4.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PROD
MERCHANDISING

CAD

FABRIC STORE

SPREADING
AND
CUTTING

MAINTAINANCE

PRINTING

SEWING

QUALITY

EMBROIDERY

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

PROD MERCHANDISING- Provides the PI sheet and all the details of the
order to be cut.

FABRIC STORE- It issues the fabric for cutting process as per the PI sheet.

SEWING- Cutting issues all the cut pieces required for sewing process.

QUALITY-Quality checks all the cut parts of a garment before they are sent to
sewing.

EMBROIDERY- Pieces required for embroidery are sent to embroidery


department.

PRINTING- Pieces required for printing are sent to printing department.

MAINTAINANCE- Maintenance keeps all the machines in working condition


by preventive and breakdown maintenance.

CAD- The pattern and the marker plan for spreading and cutting is provided
by the CAD department.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

SPREADING AND CUTTING


No. of shifts

No. of Workers

56

No. of Cutting master

Area Covered

39240sft

Machinery

1. Ticketing (Blitz Textil 2253)-10


2. Over lock (Juki)-2
3. Piping cutter (Svegea Sweden EC50)-2
4. SNLS(Juki)-2
5. SNLS (PFAFF)-2
6. Straight linear fusing press (Hashima
HP600LFS)
7. Straight knife (Blue streak)-8
8. Band knife (Eastman EC 900N/EC700N)-2
9. End Cutter (Eastman EC 3)-3
10. Continuous press with Folder for piping
press (Hashima HPM 600CA)-2
11. Straight linear fusing press (Hashima
HP600LFS)-1
12. Linear

continuous

press

(Hashima

HP900L CS)
13. Gerber Cutter GT7250
14. Gerber spreader XLS50-2
MIS
Storage

Tables

SAP and excel sheets

Racks-4 (end bits)

Racks-2(piece replacement)

Racks-2( running style patterns)

Racks-4(piping storage)

Spreading tables-4 (20m X 2m)

Printing and embroidery issue-1

Printing and embroidery sorting-1

Panel replacement-1

CAD -2
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Pipnig-1

End bits-1

Manual cutting(knits)-1

Fusinng-1

Bundling and ticketing-3

Quality checking-2

Tubelights

1320 (660 X 2)

Fans

96 (96 x 2)

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5. SEWING/PRODUCTION
5.1 PROCESS FLOW

CUTTING
ISSUE

LINE ISSUE

FEEDING

SEWING

END LINE
CHECKING

FINISHING

5.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES


The sewing floor consists of main production activities such as sewing,
finishing and packaging. Cut pieces for sewing are issued from the cutting
department to the sewing floor through lift. Reports are maintained regarding
issuals to sewing. Accordingly the pieces are issued to lines responsible for
sewing. There are storage racks to keep cut pieces at the start of every line.
Feeding is done into the line bundle wise. All parts of garment are assembled
together in roll form. Before assembly of pieces they are checked for any
quality related issues and accordingly rejected and recorded. An input
statement of the bundles is also maintained along with the details of the
rejected pieces. The rejected pieces are returned back to the cutting for
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

replacement to the line. Sewing lines follow unpaced manual Unit


Production System. The machines in the sewing line are laid out as per
sequence of the operations for knits and for woven bundle system is followed
for small parts and UPS for assembly. Each line has supervisor responsible
for managing daily production activities. Line writers are kept to track
production, arrange accessories, get replacement pieces from cutting, get
thread and maintain record. Usually 2 or 3 lines are tracked by one writer.
Every line has a Quality checker and every three lines have a Quality
assurance appointed by QC department. Operators at each workstation pick
up the garment from aisle space on the right side and perform the operation
required. After the operation the garment pieces are again rolled and pushed
ahead through aisle space for next operation. Check points are provided at
various points in the line and end line. Garments from the production line are
dispatched to the finishing on hourly basis. Before finishing the line writers
count the pieces produced size wise after every hour. Every workstation in
the sewing line is provided with necessary work aids to make the job easier
and a mechanical counter to account for the number of pieces produced per
hour which is recorded by line writer. This is used to calculate operator
efficiency and to find bottlenecks. Each line is provided with a production
board on which hourly and cumulative production is displayed. Counter
samples of the FFP sample are provided by the sampling which is hung at the
beginning and the end of the line. Every workstation has a miniature sample
of operation to be performed. Details of the machine and maintenance
records are also hung at every workstation. Format for Traffic Light System
used to track defects are provided by quality department for each
workstations. Storage boxes at check points are provided for collection of
rejected and alter pieces. The alter pieces are worked upon timely by the
concerned operators to avoid production loss. Each line is provided with its
own lighting facilities. Operators for operations are allocated based on their
training and experience due to unavailability of skill matrix. If daily target is not
met, overtime system is followed wherein only males work.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

IE

PPC

QUALITY

SEWING
THREAD,
ACCESSORY
STORE

MAINTAINANCE

FINISHING/
PACKAGING

CUTTING

IE- The department is responsible for preparing machine layouts, line setup,
managing productivity, efficiency, line balancing, time and method study.

QUALITY- Quality department constantly monitors the production process for


quality assurance. It is responsible for placing check points in-line and endline.

MAINTAINANCE- It constantly monitors the functioning of machines and


undertakes preventive or breakdown maintenance as required.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

FINISHING- It receives the production output directly from the sewing lines for
further processing.

CUTTING- The cutting department issues cut parts as input for the sewing
lines.

THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE- These stores provide required quantity of


thread accessories and trims on timely basis to sewing lines.

PPC- It keeps track of the production so as to ensure that deadlines are met
and to take necessary correctional measures.

SEWING
No. of shifts

No. of Workers

500

No. of Quality Checker

20

No. of Quality assurance

Area Covered

51408 sft (including finishing)

Machinery

Refer annexure.

MIS

SAP (PP module)

Storage

Racks-20

Tables

80

Tubelights

2226 (1113 X 2)

Fans

320 (20 X 16)

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6. QUALITY
6.1 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

IE

EMBROIDERY/
PRINTING

CAD

SEWING

QUALITY

PROD.
MERCHANDISE
R

FINISHING /
PACKAGING

CUTTING

FABRIC STORE

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6.2 DEPARTMENTWISE ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

IE- The IE department sends the Operation Bulletin and machine layout. The

quality department determines the check points (in line) by identifying the critical
operations based upon the buyer comments received upon the PP sample and
the complex operations.

SEWING- Quality department assures quality production by appointing


checkers, Quality control and Assurance personnel within sewing lines to
monitor the production. The department also follows Traffic Light System
(TLS) where in defects origin can be easily identified and rectified. In the TLS
each workstation is equipped with the TLS format card. This card contains
details of the quality that is being produced from the workstation. The quality
control personnel is required to randomly check six pieces for six times during
the shift. There are six circles in the format for each inspection which is
coloured as per the number of defects found. There are three colours that
represent the result of inspection.

Red if found two or more defects

Yellow if found one defect

Green if found no defects.

Due to this it is called Traffic Light System. Using this system the QC
can identify the workstation where quality issue originates. In case of Red
colour the production from the workstation is stopped and solutions are looked
for. The QA personnel look after major quality concerns and checks the
details of the End Line checking. The QC is also responsible for developing
AQL reports at the end of the shift based upon buyer AQL levels at end-line
checking. The QC based upon his estimates for the production of the day,
selects the required produced pieces criteria and determines the sample size
for the AQL. QC then randomly inspects throughout the day of the required
sample size and compiles the AQL report. The AQL report is generated
similarly for in-line checking by the checker. The AQL reports helps in
classifying the defects into critical, major and minor criteria. The quality also
approves the size set pieces during pre-production phase.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

FINISHING- Quality department is responsible for checking that all the buyer
requirements are met before dispatch. The quality is checked after pressing,
folding, and packaging. After pressing the garments are sent to the final
checking tables where teams of checkers check the garments for various
defects. The defects found are classified and segregated for Spotting,
Alteration, Mending and Rejection. Minor spots are mended on the checking
table using petrol guns. The alterations are sent back to the respective lines
based on the line number sticker attached under the label by the end-line
checker. Mending is done on a separate table after which checking is done
again. Rejection pieces are sent to the rejection room and recorded. Each
Checker a sticker under the garment label containing a number specific to the
checker himself. Then after checking the garments are sent for tagging. After
folding it is checked whether it has been done as per buyer requirements.
Similarly various stages of packaging also checking are carried out to ensure
adherence to buyer compliance.

CUTTING- Quality department regularly checks the cut pieces as per the
patterns provided by the CAD. Department is also involved in the pre
production phase where before bulk cutting, size set samples are approved
before and after pressing. The quality checks the markers before cutting to
ensure all requisite parts of the particular style are present.

FABRIC STORE- Quality department conducts inspection of received fabrics


using Four point system and gives the reports on the feasibility on usage of
the fabrics. It prepares colour continuity card for shade variation in the
received lot and divide them in respective batches. They also check the GSM
(knits), width/diameter and length (woven). They look for knitting, dyeing and
finishing defects in the fabric. A lot of fabric after arrival goes through 10% of
lot inspection. If positive, fabric is approved for production else it is subjected
to 25% inspection excluding the previous 10%. If fabric fails then it is
subjected to 50% checking excluding previous checked lot failing which the
fabric is sent back to mill. On roll diameter variation is also recorded and
minimum diameter is recorded as cuttable diameter. Usually 1- 1 of fabric
end is left while measuring cuttable diameter due to end gumming and end

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

pinning. These reports are sent to IE, CAD and Merchandising department for
revised consumption calculation.

PROD. MERCHANDISER- Production merchandiser sends the buyer


comments received on PP sample to the Quality department to ensure that
these are looked after during production and also to determine in-line check
points. And all major quality related issues during production are highlighted
and sent to merchandiser by the Quality department regularly.

CAD- It provides the quality department with pattern pieces and the marker
plan for quality control purposes.

EMBROIDERY/PRINTING- The quality department assigns a QC in these


departments who checks the quality parameters of the outgoing materials to
cutting. Parameters such as colour quality, fastness, shade, shape, size,
thread type and their finishing. The chemicals used have to be in adherence
to the buyer compliance.

QUALITY
No. of shifts

No. of Checkers

45

No. of Quality Checker

20

No. of Quality assurance

Documentation

AQL report(in-line, end-line, final and dupro)


Fabric Inspection Report
Size set approval report

Storage

Cupboards (AQL samples)

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

7. FINISHING/PACKAGING
7.1 PROCESS FLOW

RECEIVE GARMENT

STICKERING

PRESSING

FIINAL CHECKING

TAGGING

FOLDING

PRIMARY PACKAGING

SECONDARY PACKAGING

TERTIARY PACKAGING

FINAL INSPECTION

REPACKING

TO DISPATCH

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

7.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES


The garments from the end-line after counting are bought for stickering. In the
stickering process all the tickets on all the garment parts are removed and only a
single ticket is left at the centre neck/waist band label of the garment. After
stickering the garments are sent for pressing. Steam press are used for pressing.
During pressing the pressers ensure that the size of each garment parts are
within tolerance for this purpose they are provided with hard paper scales having
size markings for different parts of different sizes by quality department. The
pressed garments are counted and stored. Then these garments are sent for
100% final checking where all possible defects are checked. The faulty garments
are divided into SPOTTING, ALTER, MENDING and REJECTION. Rejections are
sent to the rejection room and recorded. Alters are sent back to the lines from
where they have been produced for alterations required. Mending of defects such
as small holes, torn yarns and contamination removal are done. Minor spotting is
done by the final checking itself by using petrol guns. In case of major spots it is
sent to the spotting rooms. Spotting room is equipped with two specialise spotting
machines that can be used to remove various spots by the use of various
chemicals. Then these garments are sent back for pressing. After final checking
Tagging is done wherein different tags such as barcode tags, buyer tags and
price tags are attached with the help of plastic lock tag pins. Folding is done as
per buyer approval. An approved folded sample is hung in the folding section.
After folding garments, they are packed using primary packing materials such as
poly-bags, hanger and packing box. After primary packaging the packed piece
are sent to packing section by passing them through a metal detector to avoid
metal contamination. In the packaging section secondary and tertiary packaging
such as blisters and cartoon packaging is done. As per buyer requirements after
80-100% packaging final inspection is performed on the packed lot. The final
inspection is performed by a third party approved by the buyer. The inspection is
performed on the AQL level decided by the buyer. The inspection is of destructive
nature where the whole sample size is completely checked for any possible
defects. Based on this inspection the shipment is approved. The inspected
garments are repacked and sent to dispatch. Reports such as daily rejection,
finishing and packaging reports are maintained.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

7.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

PROD.
MERCHANDISING

MAINTAINANCE

FINISHING/
PACKAGING

DISPATCH

PPC

SEWING

QUALITY- Quality is involved in ensuring that proper finishing and packaging


is done.

MAINTAINANCE- Maintenance looks after the press machines and steam


generators regularly to ensure smooth functioning.

PPC- PPC keeps track of the pace of work so that the FI and shipment date
are met.

SEWING- Finishing receives garment from end-line.

DISPATCH- Dispatch receives packed cartons for shipment.

PROD. MERCHANDISING- It provides the details of buyer approval regarding


folding, packaging and carton packaging ratios.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

FINISHING AND PACKAGING


No. of shifts

No. of Workers

175 (pressers, workers, checkers, helpers)

No. of Quality Checker

15

No. of Quality assurance

Machinery

1. Ramsons steam generator -3


2. Ramsons veit pressing vacuum table- 49
3. Strapping machines-10
4. Folding machine (shirt)-4
5. Petrol guns-20
6. Spotting tables(Ramsons stain buster
CL1)
7. Tagging gun-20
8. Metal detector-2
9. Weighing machine
10. Trolley hydro-2

Chemicals used

1. Rust remover(textile stain)


2. LTK-45 (yellow & black stains coloured
fabric)
3. N9 (color stains on light coloured fabric)
4. Hypobleach

(black

stain

from

white

fabric)
5. Emerol-ol (grease and hard mud stains)
6. Tin-ol (embroidery and printing stains)
Storage

Racks-6
Boxes -35 (Neel-kamal)

Tables

Tables (2.5 X 11) 20


Inspection tables- 20
Tables (2.5 X 5)-11

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

8. MAINTENANCE
8.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The maintenance department looks after all the machines in the garment
division. The department is mainly responsible for:
o Machine maintenance,


Preventive maintenance, and

Break down maintenance.

The maintenance department follows various procedures to ensure that the


machines are in working condition and do not breakdown regularly. The
department is divided into two parts:
o Needle and spare parts department and
o Maintenance and repairs department
The needle and spare parts department is responsible for storage and issue
of needles and machine spare parts. Department follows a ZERO NEEDLE
POLICY. In this policy it is required to find all the parts of a broken needle
before replacing it. The policy has been implemented as per buyer
requirements. In case a needle breaks, the operator reports to line supervisor
who in turn reports to the maintenance. A mechanic is issued a set of needles
for replacement purposes along with a reporting chart for each needle box.
Whenever a needle is replaced all the parts of the broken needle are pasted
on the chart along with signature of the supervisor. Only when the mechanic
returns completely filled report with all the broken needle parts of the replaced
needles is he issued a new box of needles. In case the needle parts are not
retrieved as per rule the supervisor and the mechanic must check within two
meter diameter for 15 minutes and also check all the garments within this
range by a magnetic bar. If the parts are still not found then the contaminated
garment of this range are passed through large metal detector. If any garment
is found with needle contamination it is separated and then the quality
department checks the pieces by hand metal detector and keeps the record
and these garments are rejected.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

ZERO NEEDLE POLICY PROCESS FLOW:-

NEEDLE
BREAKAGE

REPORT TO
MAINTENENCE

SEARCH FOR
ALL APRTS OF
THE NEEDLE

FOUND

NOT FOUND

DEPOSIT

SEARCH WITH
MAGNETIC
BAR

RECORD

CHECK WITH
METAL HAND
DETECTOR

REPLACE

FOUND

NOT FOUND

DEPOSIT

SEPARATE
CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS

RECORD

USE LARGE
METAL
DETECTOR

REPLACE

52

FOUND

NOT FOUND

DPOSIT

SEPARATE
CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS

RECORD

REJECT
CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS

REPLACE

NEEDLE
REPLACED

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

8.2 PREVENTIVE AND BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE


Preventive maintenance procedures are followed to ensure that the machines are
in proper working condition and do not breakdown. To meet this purpose a
preventive maintenance checklist is maintained at every workstation. Weekly
checks are performed for various machine parameters to check the condition of
the machine.
Breakdown maintenance is done in cases where machine malfunctions. In this
case the maintenance personnel attend the machine and correct the malfunction
as soon as possible to avoid production loss. A record of the maintenance done
is maintained on a breakdown maintenance sheet kept at the workstation for
reference purposes. The machines having frequent breakdowns are taken out
and replaced. There are three teams of mechanics, engineer and fitters in the
maintenance department for repair works. All major repair jobs are done in the
maintenance department. The department is equipped with all the required
machines, equipments and spare parts to cope with all kind of breakdowns.
8.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

IE

CUTTING

MAINTENANCE

FINISHING
&
PACKAGING

SEWING

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

QUALITY- During line setup the quality department works in co-ordination


with maintenance for ensuring proper stitch settings. During Zeero Needle
Compliance the quality department assists the maintenance for checking the
garments for contamination.

IE- Before the line setup IE sends the machine layout required. As per the
garment the maintenance department prepares the machines with appropriate
needle and attachments.

SEWING- Maintenance department constantly looks after the machines in the


sewing line and does preventive and breakdown maintenance.

FINISHING & PACKAGING- The department looks after the maintenance of


needle detector machine, pressing, steam generator etc.

CUTTING- The department looks after the maintenance of Gerber cutter,


spreader, straight knives, band knives etc. It also maintains a record of all the
replacement of blades of Gerber cutter.
MAINTENANCE

No. of shifts

No. of Engineers

No. of Mechanics

10

No. of Fitters

Documentation

Zero needle policy report


Machine maintenance record

Storage

Cupboards -4

Area

1188 sft (66 X 18)

Tubelights

30 (15 X 2)

Fans

10

Machinery

Lathe machine
Drilling machine
Buffing machine
Solding machine
Grinding machine

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING (IE)


9.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
IE have the following roles and functions:1.1. Consumption calculation
1.1.1. Fabric
1.1.2. thread
1.2. Line setup
1.2.1. Machine layout
1.2.2. Machine set-up
1.2.3. Line balancing
1.3. Productivity and efficiency management
1.3.1. Time study
1.3.2. Method study
1.4. Costing
1.4.1. Query stage costing
1.4.2. Pre-production costing
1.4.3. Final costing
1.5. Capacity planning
1.5.1. Capacity booking
1.5.2. Learning curve
1.5.3. Production feasibility
1.5.4. Built up plan
1.6. Incentive planning
1.6.1. Worker incentive
9.1.1 Consumption:
9.1.1.1 Fabric Consumption calculation Consumption calculations for fabric and
thread are done by the IE department. The fabric consumption calculation is done at
two stages. First, before the fabric is ordered and second, after the fabric is received
and inspected. After order confirmation the marker plan is made by the CAD and
sent for consumption calculation by the IE department. The department calculates
the fabric consumed per piece as per the marker provided with required wastages.
The calculations for knits and woven are done separately.
{(LENGTH X WIDTH X GSM) / 10000}/ NUMBER OF GARMENTS = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (KNITS)

o
o
o
o

Length length of marker


Width width of marker
GSM grams per square meter of fabric
Number of garments number of garments in the marker

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

LENGTH OF MARKER / NUMBER OF GARMENTS (IN MARKER) = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (WOVEN)

In the pre-fabric booking phase the details of the fabric are provided by the
merchandiser as given by the buyer. Consumption per garment is calculated and
fabric is booked by the HO merchandisers based on this consumption. In the postfabric receiving phase the actual fabric details like Diameter, GSM, Length, Width,
etc of are sent to the IE for revised consumption calculation. Revised markers are
also prepared by the CAD based on the fabric received and sent t the IE. The IE
crosschecks the consumption requirements and informs the merchandiser in case of
any irregularities. In consumption calculations the fabric width wastage for knits is
taken to be 2 and for tubular 1. The wastage added to the consumption per
garment for knits is 5% and for woven 3%.

9.1.1.2 Thread consumption calculation Thread consumption calculation is done


on an estimation basis. The consumption is calculated in the pre-production phase.
The fit sample is provided to the IE by the merchandiser. The consumption is
calculated by using machine consumption ratios and seam length. The machine
ratios determine the consumption per centimetre of a particular seam. The
consumption is calculated with wastages up to 30% for all the thread types used in
the garment. The consumption per garment is calculated and sent to the
merchandiser, who in turn prepares the consumption for the order quantity and
sends it to the thread store for thread booking purposes.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.2 Line setup During the pre-production phase IE performs various functions
such as preparation of OB (operation bulletin), preparation of SAMs, determining
type and the number of machines required.
9.1.2.1 Machine layout Before starting with the production IE determines the
layout of the machines on the sewing line. This is based upon the sequence of
operations required. The number of machines required is calculated on the basis of
pitch time calculations. The pitch time is calculated as the sum of SAMs of the
garment divided by the number of operations and then a comparison is done
between the pitch time and the
SAM of each operation. If the
SAM value is more than the pitch

Pitch time = SAM (garment) / number of operations


Number of machines required = SAM /Pitch time

time then the machine required would be equal to the division of the SAM by the
pitch time, else a single machine is required for the operation. The machine layout
chart consists of the operation names, machine names with attachments, SAM
(expected) and target per hour. The estimated SAMs are provided using PDTS (pre
determined time standards). The SAM of the garment is calculated as the sum of
SAM of all the operations. And the production target for each operation per hour and
per day is calculated based on the expected efficiency.
9.1.2.2 Machine set-up After the machine layout has been prepared the IE
department in co-ordination with the maintenance department gets the machines set
in the lines as per layout. The IE in co-ordination with other departments ensures
that the machines are properly set for production with right attachments and settings.
9.1.2.3 Line balancing After the line has been set, IE looks after the production of
the line to check whether any operation requires more or less machines. This is done
for the purpose of optimization of production and efficiency to appropriate levels. IE
also performs time study to determine the actual SAM to compare with the estimated
value for this purpose.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.3 Productivity and efficiency management IE looks after the production and
efficiency of the lines to help the production meet its target and deadlines. Various
tools used for this purpose are time study and method study.
9.1.3.1 Time study It is an analysis tool for measuring the actual time for each
operation. The time study is done using a stopwatch and recording sheet. It is
normally performed a week after line start-up. The time study is performed by ten
continuous cycle time recording for each operation. Average for these values is
calculated and a rating is given to the operators work. Based on the rating and the
average time average time is calculated. Allowance factors are allotted depending
upon the gender of the operator and the machine used in the operation. These
allowances in combination with their basic time are used for deriving the SAM value.
The time study is used for making pitch diagrams to identify bottlenecks in a line. A
pitch diagram is a graphical representation of production of each workstation. The
lowest point on this graph is taken to be estimated production of the line. This lowest
value is also identified as the bottleneck operation. For which various steps are taken
to improve its production. These steps include method study of the operation,
physical check of the machine, sewing operation parameters, nature of fabric and
material handling and motivation of operator to upgrade.
9.1.3.2 Method study Method study is performed by studying the operational
methods used by the operators. The main aim of the method study is to provide easy
and streamlined way of doing an operation. The method study aims at reducing
wasteful or avoidable movements in order to reduce time for the completion of the
operation. It is done by observing the operators initial work methods and recording
the details of work method such as elemental time required for each type of motion
and frequency of motion. Analysing the recorded data and finding a feasible solution
to reduce the manual work and cycle time a new work method is proposed. The
proposed work method is tested for feasibility and accordingly implemented.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.4 Costing The IE department is responsible for costing at three stages. Query
stage, pre-production stage and final costing.
9.1.4.1 Query stage costing Query is a stage at which a buyer approaches the
company for the purpose of acquiring the approximate details of the costing for a
style of which the buyer proposes production. At this stage the IE provides the rough
estimate on the manufacturing cost of the garment to the buyer on past data and
experiences. This costing is marked up for the purpose of negotiation.
9.1.4.2 Pre-production costing After the order confirmation the buyer decides the
rate at which it will pay the company. Using this cost as the basis costing is done so
as to ensure considerable profits. The costing at this stage mainly consists of
material cost, CMT charges (Cut Make Trim) and profit. It is necessary at this stage
to adjust the cost at lowest possible. To meet such requirements tries to keep a
control on the consumption quantity of materials. The CMT charges are calculated
department wise as per the machinery and labour invested. The CMT charges are
also affected by the purchase of new machinery for the manufacturing of the order.
CMT = {(SAM of garment) X (cost/min of factory)}/ efficiency (expected)
Cost/min of factory It is the cost of running the factory for a min.
These details are sent to the HO for compilation of cost for the order.
9.1.4.3 Final costing This costing is the final costing done at the completion of
order to calculate the cost incurred for order completion. Using reconciliation
statements of various departments such as stores, cutting, sewing, finishing and
packaging final costing is done to compare the cost with the one given at preproduction phase. Any kind of revision in consumption of materials and work
investment that are done in-house is highlighted. If the revision is incurred due to the
demands of the buyer then the cost for that is added to the buyers cost. The final
objective of this costing is to determine profit or loss that factory incur.

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9.1.5 Capacity planning The IE does capacity planning during the pre-production
phase in which it prepares a plan for production on monthly basis depending upon
the capacity available in the factory. Capacity booking consists of balancing work
between different work departments such as cutting, sewing, embroidery, printing,
finishing and packaging depending upon their available capacities.
9.1.5.1 Capacity booking In capacity booking it is checked whether the
departments in the factory can meet the production requirements of the orders. It
also helps in determining if the orders are to be executed in-house or be given for
job-work. The capacity booking depends upon constraints such as machinery and
production capacity available. It also helps in planning the work as per capacity and
helps in deciding the time period up to which production shall take place depending
upon various variables. In this the requisition of new machinery is also looked after if
required.
9.1.5.2 Learning curve The learning curve is used for estimating the production
timeline and efficiency at which a style will be produced. There are four types of
learning curves:

Fast

Rapid

Normal

Slow

The type of learning curve used to estimate the production pick-up is determined by
the styling of the garment. Easier the style steeper (faster) the learning curves.
9.1.5.3 Production feasibility IE checks the production feasibility for a style
during the sampling stages by checking the machine and attachment requirements.
Feasibility is also decided on the basis of the complex styling of the garment.
9.1.5.4 Build up plan A build up plan is a plan made up of daily production targets
in advance for an order based upon Efficiency, Learning curve, Capacity and other
production variables. It is represented in a timeline format with daily as well as
cumulative production target. It is prepared separately for each department.

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9.1.6 Incentive planning (workers incentive) An incentive is awarded daily to


operators for meeting or exceeding their productions targets. The incentive is
awarded on various criteria such as SAM of the garment and minimum incentive
quantity. Incentives are allocated using incentive slabs based upon range of SAM.
The range of SAM decides the product category. Incentive plan is based on these
product categories. For example a garment with a SAM of 12.5 min will lie in a
category of Product 4 (12-14 min). According to the product category for minimum
incentive minimum production per tailor is decided. The target to be achieved to be
eligible for incentive is calculated as product of the number of tailors and target per
person. If the actual production of line is more than the target then production per
person is found and the incentive rate is selected in the incentive rate slab under the
appropriate product category. The total operator incentive is calculated as the
product of the incentive rate and the total production and incentive per operator is
calculated by dividing this value by the number of operators. Per helper incentive is
calculated as half the value of per operator incentive.

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9.2 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

SEWING

CAD

IE
FABRIC
STORE

PROD.
MERCHANDISING

PPC

MAINTAINENCE

SEWING The IE dept has various responsibilities relating to production such


as Productivity and efficiency mgmt, line setup, incentive planning etc. these
roles and functions are necessary for optimizing production and maximum
utilization of available resources.

Quality - The IE sends the machine layout to the Quality department for the
purpose of identifying in-line check points in accordance to buyer comments.

PROD. MERCHANDISING The IE dept interacts with the Production


merchandiser for costing and consumption estimation purposes. The IE
assists the merchandiser in the process of costing.

PPC The IE in coordination with the PPC department does the planning for
production. Capacity planning, booking and production timeline is done in
coordination with the PPC. Time and action calendar prepared by PPC is
used as a reference for planning production. The IE dept also makes the
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Build-up plan for each department depending on capacities for meeting


production targets.

MAINTAINENCE The IE department provides the maintenance department


with the required machine layout for preparing the machine and attachments
as required for production purpose.

FABRIC STORE The fabric store communicates with the IE department in


relation to the bulk fabric received and their inspection reports for the purpose
of revised consumptions on received fabric.

CAD The CAD department makes the marker plan on the basis of which the
IE calculates the consumption.

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10. PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING


10.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The production merchandiser functions at the factory level and is different from the
merchandisers who coordinate with buyers from head quarters. The production
merchandisers do tracking and follow up of orders in order to ensure that the work
is completed in time and meets all buyer requirements. The merchandisers are
responsible for each and every activity during order completion. The merchandiser
is required to get approval from the buyer regarding and aspect of the order ranging
from sampling, sewing to packaging. Merchandiser plays a centre role in
coordinating, instructing departments and decision making regarding any order
related issue.
10.1.1 PRE-PRODUCTION PHASE
In the pre-production phase, production merchandiser is sent a tech pack from the
buyer on lines of which sampling is to be done. The merchandiser along with the
sampling look after meeting buyer needs and keep record of them. Consumption
calculation and details for compiling costing and booking are done and procured
from the IE department. The details of the consumption and costing are sent to head
quarters. A Production information sheet is sent from the Head quarters that contains
all production related information necessary for production execution .This PI sheet
is sent to cutting, stores, embroidery/printing, sewing and finishing for complying with
the requirements.
10.1.2 PRODUCTION PHASE
After the PP sample from buyer is approved the merchandiser sends the buyer
comments received to all departments for reference. In the production phase the
merchandiser looks after major issues that arise in production and follow up the
details with H.O merchandisers regarding progress in work. As per buyer
requirement the merchandiser also provides each department with department
specific instructions provided by the buyer, for e.g. folding technique, Packaging
method and ratios. Merchandiser remains involved with the follow up and decision
making of the order from beginning till the shipment.

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10.1.3 POST-PRODUCTION PHASE


In the post production phase the merchandiser tracks and follows up the final
inspection. It is also necessary to ensure that the order is ready on time and shipped
as required. At this stage it is required to compile a report of the actual cost incurred
for profit /loss analysis purpose. The merchandiser in coordination with the IE
compiles the data relating to final costs incurred. This costing is based upon RECO
statements of departments and cost incurred by each. This costing is sent to the H.O
for accounting Profit and loss.

10.2 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

PPC

SAMPLING

FINISHING
&
PACKAGING

PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING

PRINTING

FABRIC
STORE

CAD

EMBROIDERY

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

QUALITY The merchandiser provides the comments received on the PP


sample to the quality department for keeping it in view while quality checks.

PPC The merchandiser follows up the details about various production


phases to the PPC department for the purpose of tracking revising and
following the TNA calendar.

FABRIC STORE The merchandiser receives communication regarding the


fabric received and their inspection report for crosschecking of the actual
fabric details to that of the booked fabric details.

CAD The merchandiser provides tech-pack details, size ratios and grading
details for preparing the patterns and marker plan.

EMBROIDERY/ PRINTING The merchandiser provides the art work


required in the garment to these departments.

FINISHING & PACKAGING The merchandiser provides the details


regarding folding and packaging.

SAMPLING The merchandiser follows up all the details of all stages of


sampling and all the communication between sampling and buyer goes
through this department only. The merchandiser is also responsible for
receiving approval for various samples from buyer.

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11. PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL (PPC)


11.1 PROCESS FLOW

OCM

PLANNING

TNA

CONTROLLING
11.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY
11.2.1 Pre production phase
After OCM details of the order are sent to the production merchandiser who in turn
sends it to the PPC department. PPC department then starts the planning in order to
determine the timeline during which each production activity has to be performed. To
meet this purpose the PPC works in co-ordination with the IE department for
capacity booking and planning. As per the capacity booking the planning for the inhouse production is done. TNA action calendar is prepared accordingly to determine
the duration for each activity. The TNA calendar consists of various dates such as
sample approval, fabric booking, fabric receiving, production cut date, final
inspection and shipment. A 90 day lead time on an average is taken for order
completion. The FI (final inspection) date is calculated as three day before the
shipment date. The PCD (production cut date) is determined by backward
calculations from the FI date and the days required for production purpose. The
period between the order booking and the PCD is utilized for sampling and material
procurement. The days required for production is calculated on the basis of capacity,
efficiency, labour turnover, learning curve and other production variables.

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11.2.2 Production phase


During the production phase the PPC is responsible for controlling the production
rate. Micro planning is done on daily basis with IE department to meet required
targets. PPC also keeps track on the material procurement dates such as fabric
received dated for the purpose of revising TNA calendar.
11.2.3 Post production phase
After the production PPC department keeps track of various activities such as
finishing, washing, packaging and inspection dates and details.

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12. EMBROIDERY
12.1 PROCESS FLOW

ARTWORK
FROM BUYER

SAMPLING

APPROVAL

MASS
PRODUCTION
12.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW
PIECES FROM CUTTING

TESTING

EMBROIDERY

THREAD CUTTER

QUALTY INSPECTION

TO CUTTING

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12.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY


The embroidery department has a separate sampling process. The artwork from the
buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that artwork
on the CAD software Wilcom ES65. The artwork is redeveloped and samples are
made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling phase the embroidery on
the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork. During production the pieces
requiring embroidery are received in bundle form. Embroidery is done on some of
the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After
checking embroidery on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for thread
cutting. The protruding threads and fusing or lining fabrics are cut and finished.
These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting
department. During embroidery the centre point of the artwork is marked on a table
using pins. A hoop is placed around the pins and another hoop on which the fabric
piece is fastened and pressed over it. After the hoop is secured tightly they are
placed under the machine heads with reference to the needle mark on the fabric.
The design developed in the CAD is fed in the machine and embroidery is done as
required. There are four 18-head embroidery machines (Barudan) which have
capacity of 9-threads per head. Sequins and bead attachments are also available if
required. A 6-head embroidery machine is also available. A sixteen thread machine
for complex embroideries is also available. Tear-able nonwoven linings are used as
backing in embroideries. There are two types of tear-able nonwoven linings in use:
(1 X 1) and (2 X 2). (1 X 1) is used for achieving high quality finish and is costly. For
appliqu works a laser engraving and cutting machine is used. The appliqu fabric is
cut using this machine and attached to the fabric piece using embroidery and
pasting. A needle detector used for detecting needles in case of needle breakage as
per Zero Needle Policy. The consumptions for thread used here are provided by this
department itself.

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12.4 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING

EMBROIDERY

CUTTING

QUALITY

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING Prod merchandising provides the art


work and follows up it with buyer for approvals.

QUALITY Quality is involved in checking proper embroidery as per buyer


needs.

CUTTING The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which
embroidery is required and receives the output.
EMBROIDERY

No. of shifts

No. of Workers

30

Storage

Racks 10

Area

1584 sft (88 X 18)

Tubelights

30 (15 X 2)

Machinery

Barudan (18 head 9 thread)-4


Barudan (6 head 9 thread)-1
Amaya XT (16 colour)
Golden laser cutting machine-1
Hashima metal detector
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13. PRINTING
13.1 PROCESS FLOW
ARTWORK
FROM BUYER

PREPARATION
OF SCREEN

SAMPLING

APPROVAL

MASS
PRODUCTION

13.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW

PIECES FROM
CUTTING

PREPARATION
OF COLOUR

PRINTING

CURING

QUALTY
INSPECTION

TO CUTTING

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13.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY


The printing department does following types of prints for garments:

Plastic-sol print

Discharge print

PVC free print

Glitter print

Foil print

HD print (high definition)

Heat transfer print

Pigment print

The common printing technique used for these prints is screen printing. The artwork
from the buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that
artwork on the Adobe Photoshop CS3 software. The artwork is redeveloped, Screen
prepared and samples are made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling
phase the printing on the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork and the
colors are selected as per the pantone chips sent by the buyer. During production
the pieces requiring printing are received in bundle form. Printing is done on some of
the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After
checking printing on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for curing.
These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting
department.
Types of colours used are of two type water base and oil based. PVC free and
Pigment are water based while Plastic-sol is oil based. Screens are prepared UV
light exposure method. The screen fabric used is 15T to 180T. They can be of
maximum size 3 X 2. The fabric is fastened on the frame and a chemical (Diazo
cure) is applied all over the screen. Then the screen is semi-cured in a heater. The
design is printed on a water-proof film and is placed centrally aligned on the screen.
The screen is then placed in an exposing machine (Nu-arc Tri-light) and exposed in
UV light. The areas not covered by design harden and become black while the other
areas remain transparent. Then the screen is washed and cured and checked on the
touching table, if required re-exposing is done. The screen is then fitted on the
machine and the required color is prepared. Before beginning with the mass
production a sample printing is done to check whether the required colour is
obtained or not. Then batch-wise printing is done on the printing machine. There are
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three screen printing machines of which two are automatic and one is manual. Up-to
10 colour printing can be done on the manual while in the automatic 10-16 colours
can be applied. The machine rotates the garment piece under the screen heads. The
screens descend on the pieces and automatic squeezing system applies colours.
The number of strokes and number of squeeze depend upon the shade required.
After printing the pieces are cured on a continuous curing machine. Then the pieces
are checked, re-bundled and sent back to cutting.

13.4 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING

PRINTING

CUTTING

QUALITY

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING Production merchandising provides the


art work and follows up it with buyer for approvals.

QUALITY Quality is involved in checking proper printing as per buyer


needs.

CUTTING The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which
printing is required and receives the output.

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PRINTING
No. of shifts

No. of Workers

26

Storage

Racks 8

Area

1870 sft (85 X 22)

Tubelights

28 (14 x 2)

Machinery

Cheran fusing machines-2


Transwift mini curing machine
M&R Chameleon manual printing machine
(10 colour)
M&R challenger II (10 colour) automatic
M&R challenger II (16 colour) automatic
M&R sprint 2000 automatic continuous
curing machine
HIX fusing machine
Nu-Arc tri-light exposing machine
M&R

DigikoteT

machine
1 chamber heater.
Eye washer
Washing machine
Weighing machine

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

14. INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY (IT)


14.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The IT department at Alok garment division, Saily looks after the IT infrastructure
and its maintenance. There are various types of server like, E-mail, application, DNS
(Domain Name Server) and anti-virus. ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) such as
SAP (System Application of Production Planning) and Production Fast-react are
used. Switches are used and bus topology is used for wired and star topology for
wireless networks. Virtual LAN system is used for network configuration. The SAP
system is centrally controlled from H.O. There are four main modules of SAP such
as

Production planning (PP module)

Material management (MM module)

Sales and distribution (SD module)

Finance module (FI module)

Store departments use MM modules for inward and outward. The production
departments such as cutting, sewing and finishing use the PP module for recording
input and output. SD module is used by marketing and sales departments. The FI
module is used by finance, accounts and administration department. Various other
reports are maintained manually using MS-excel other than ERP for backup
purpose. Major reports maintained are:
14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report)
14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report)
14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report)
14.1.4 End-line report (hourly)
14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR)
14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units)
14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly)
14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly)
14.1.9 Incentive reports
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14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report) A daily factory report is compiled at the end of
the day. The report contains detailed production statistics of the work departments
cutting, sewing, finishing, embroidery, printing and packaging. The production is
compiled buyer/style-wise and line-wise. This report overall view of production of the
factory.
14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report) An efficiency report is maintained line-wise
on daily basis for a month.
14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report) A DPR is maintained on daily basis
buyer-wise and line-wise for all the work activities performed. The DPR defers from
the DFR as it represents size-wise details of each work activity.
14.1.4 End-line report (hourly) End-line report is maintained for each line on an
hourly basis for end-line production.
14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR) The daily rejection report is maintained for both
sewing and finishing.
14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units) The DHU
percentage is measured as the amount of defects per hundred units produced. The
DHU is important for the purpose of quality control and to identify major/frequently
occurring departments. The defects are classified and recorded respectively and
line-wise.
14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) The report
is compiled for the purpose of assessments and learning curve developments.
14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) This report is
maintained date-wise and line-wise. It contains the efficiency and the production
achieved in a particular style. At the end of the style production a summary is
compiled to know the average efficiency at which the style was produced. This
bakchod report helps in future projections for capacity booking and planning
purpose.
14.1.9 Incentive reports This is generated on daily basis for calculating and
recording incentives line-wise.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

PROJECT OBJECTIVE:
To optimize thread consumption calculations using calculator
METHODOLOGY:

Study the process flow of thread


consumption calculation.

Identify key areas of concern in


calculation.

Following some of the finished and


running styles of different buyers.

Analysis of various key points of


thread consumption

Proposal of a possible solution


using IT tools

Development of thread
cosumption calculator

Testing of the proposed solution

Comparison of the results with


previous results

Implementation

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1. Estimating Thread Consumption

INTRODUCTION
It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so as to
estimate requirements for manufacturing finished product. Thread consumption can
be determined in several ways. To calculate the amount of thread in a seam:
1) Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.
2) Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas
based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch.
3) Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.

ESTIMATED THREAD CONSUMPTION

Estimated thread consumption is calculated using thread consumption factor values


of various machines. A specified length of the seam, for example 3 cm is measured
on the seam and the thread is removed by carefully unravelling the stitch. Then the
amount of thread consumed in one centimetre is multiplied with the factor times the
total length of the seam measured in cm(s). The factors for each machine/stitch type
is estimated average values based upon a middle SPI.These factors are an average
value of thread consumed in a cm of a particular seam .

If different types of threads are used in the garment then its necessary to
differentiate the consumption per thread. This differentiation is done at the seam
calculation stages when the consumption per seam is calculated by the help of
consumption percentages for needle bobbin and loopers per machine type. If in case
spreader is used in case of flatlocks then the consumption for looper and spreader is
evenly distributed.

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Sl.
No

Factor

Machine name

(per cm)

%needle

%looper/bbn

Single needle lock stitch

2.5

50%

50%

Double needle lockstitch

50%

50%

Single needle chain stitch

5.5

25%

75%

Double needle chain stitch

11

25%

75%

4 needle chain stitch

22

25%

75%

Baby over lock

24

20%

80%

3 thread over lock

15

20%

80%

4 thread over lock

18

25%

75%

5 thread over lock

20

20%

80%

10

Flat lock (3 thread)

18

30%

70%

11

Flat lock (4 thread)

25

30%

70%

12

Flat lock (5 thread)

28

30%

70%

13

Single thread chain stitch

100%

0%

14

Welt pocket

50%

50%

15

Zig zag lockstitch

50%

50%

16

Saddle / pic stitch

3.5

100%

0%

17

Feed of the arm (2needle)

11

30%

70%

18

Feed of the arm (3needle)

16.5

30%

70%

19

Bartack

50

77%

23%

20

Button hole

50

75%

25%

21

Buttoning

40

100%

0%

22

Picotting stitch

28

25%

75%

23

Blind hemming

100%

0%

24

Baby o/l (3t)

28

20%

80%

26

Smocking

100%

0%

25

Radial tacking

50

27

Whip / blanket stitch

8.5

28

Fagotting stitch

5.5

Table1.1 Thread consumption factors*

*The factors table for machines and the various distribution factors have been developed by the industry personnel (IE dept)
Alok industries Ltd(Garments division Saily,Silvassa).

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2. Study the process flow of thread consumption calculation.


PROCESS FLOW

Garment received in IE Dept

Fomation of operation bulletin

Measurement of the seams and


recording

Identification of thread types

Format development for calculation

Data entry for calculation

Thread consumption distribution

calculating consumption

formation of report for


merchandiser

Chart 2.1:- Process flow


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1. Garment received in IE Dept

I.E. dept. receives the garments from the merchandiser after the approval for fit/size
set is received. The calculation for consumption (fabric, thread) and S.A.M value is
done following the receival.
2. Formation of operation bulletin
The first step in thread consumption calculation is the formulation of the operation
bulletin(OB).This helps in identification of various seams used in the garment.
3. Measurement of the seams and recording
The seams identified in the previous step are measured using measuring tape. The
measured seams are recorded accordingly. The measurements are carried out in
centimetres (cms). This iis usually done to ease the work of calculation as

the

factors are available for per cm.


4. Identification of thread types
As garments may contain/made up of different kinds of threads its necessary to
identify locations where different types of threads are used in order to quantify their
consumptions required for placing orders for purchase purposes.
5. Format development for calculation
An

excel

sheet

format is developed
for the purpose of
calculation.

Fig 2.1:- Consumption calculation format

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6. Data entry for calculation


Data relating to the seam lengths and the factor corresponding to the type of seam
used is entered into the excel sheet format developed. The factors are referenced
from the standard factors readily developed by the IE dept.
7. Thread consumption distribution
The distribution of consumption as per the threads required in each seam is done by
typing the consumption formulas in the corresponding thread columns.

Fig 2.2 - Example of thread distribution

8. Calculating consumption
The thread consumption per seam is calculated using the formula:
Total consumption (mts) = (seam-length (S.L)(cm) X factor(per cm)/100) X No. of seams

The formula helps in formulation of total thread consumed in a seam irrespective of


the types of threads used. To segregate the consumption of different threads used in
needle, bobbin and spreader the following formula is used:

Consumption (mts) = Percent consumption Per seam of needle/bobbin/looper X Total


consumption in seam

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Based on consumptions of needle bobbin and spreader the consumptions are


allotted/allocated to the thread type used.
9. Formation of report for merchandiser
Calculated thread consumption is compiled into a suitable report format so as to be
sent to the merchandiser for the purpose of booking the thread for a required
amount of thread quantity. The IE dept only calculates per garment consumption for
a single approved sample of a particular size.

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3. Identification and analysis of key areas of concern in calculation.


It is necessary to identify various variables involved in the calculation process
required as these variables influence the consumption. The various variables
involved are as follows:

Seam Length measurement

Wastage percentage

Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader).

Type of seam , garment and fabric type

Seam-Length measurement

The seam length is an important factor influencing thread consumption. Seam length
also determines how much waste and extra per seam of thread will be consumed.
Preferably extra length is taken so as to consider the wastage during making the
seam.
Wastage percentage

The wastage percentage is an important factor that helps determining the wastage
required to cover the waste during production. Generally the wastage is taken to be
30 % of total consumptions.
Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader)

The distribution of thread per seam (i.e. needle /bobbin/spreader), is a necessity for
the purpose of determining and quantifying the amount of thread required. Any
variation in the distribution can lead to less/more consumption of a particular thread.
Type of seam/Garment and fabric type

The consumption also depends on the type of seam as different seams have
different factors and thus the consumption variates. Any error in identification can
lead to wrong consumption calculations. Consumptions also depend on the fabric
type and garment construction technique as a light weight and difficult constructed
seam have more consumptions as there are chances of error occurrences in them.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3.1 Problems during thread consumption calculations


The following are the commonly observed

problems during thread consumption

calculations(manual) presently followed:

Chart 3.1- Problems in consumption calculation

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

4. Proposal of a Feasible Solution Using IT Tools


The solution proposed for the problems identified is based upon reduction of manual
inputs in order to proportionately reduce the time consumed and the chances of error
occurrences.
In order to solve the above enlisted problem we proposed a Thread consumption
calculator(15 thread) ,built in regular excel sheets using various programming tools
and controls.
The objectives of the calculator are as follows:
1. Eliminate the manual entry of factors for each seam type.
2. Eliminate the need of formula entry for calculations.
3. Eliminate the process of segregating consumption for different thread types.
4. Eliminate manual calculation errors.
5. Simplifying and automatic calculation of thread consumption.
6. Developing a user friendly and readily available interface and format.
7. Automatic report generation of thread consumption for merchandiser.
8. Ease in calculation of consumptions of styles having up to 15 thread types
9. Provide accurate and reliable results in less time.

4.1 Benefits of proposal


The calculator shall provide a low cost and act as a feasible solution with the various
objectives on which it has been developed.
The calculator developed report has been developed on line with report compiled by
the merchandiser for the order quantity that is forwarded to the thread store for the
purpose of thread booking
The report generated shall also reduce the work of the merchandiser to compile and
calculate consumption of the whole order quantity based on consumptions per
garment determined by the IE dept.
The merchandiser would only be required to check the figures provided by the IE
dept and continue by forwarding the report to the thread store.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5 SOLUTION DEVELOPMENT (CALCULATOR)

TESTING

IMPLEMENTATION

DEVELOPMENT
DESIGNING

CONCEPTUALIZING

5.1 CONCEPTUALIZING
In this process the concept of the calculator was developed. The inputs and and
outputs required for the calculator have been designed in a way to reduce errors in
calculation to maximum extent.
The inputs required in the calculator are limited to that of seam length,operation
bulletin and number of seams. Combo-box list provide a more easy way of machine
selection for particular seam type.The selection of threads for needle ,bobbin and
spreader have also been provided

with combo lists to enable

easy, fast and

accurate selections.
Formulas in corresponding columns of needle, bobbin/looper,spreader and total
consumption provide automatic calculations by retrival of factors automatically from
the factor sheet.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Automatic consumption report is generated as the consumption or data for


consumption is entered. This report is developed in a way that it reduces the
compiling work of the merchandiser.

5.2 DESIGNING
The calculator has been developed by keeping in mind a user friendly interface that
can easily be understood and used by anyone.
The calculator has been designed in worksheets using various linking , formula and
programming features of excel.
Consumptions for up to 15 Thread types can be determined by entering their
description in the thread description table.
Seventy five (75) rows have been provided to cover long operation bulletins.
Option for saving the consumption calculation file in user determined named location
has been provided.
Reset field option has been provided for instantly clearing field entries.
A generate report option has also been provided for the purpose of automatic report
generation.
Combo box controls have been used in columns of machine type ,needle,bobbin and
spreader thread description, wastage selection for the purpose of easy and quick
selection.
Linking between factor sheet and the main interface has been done using formulas
such that automatic retrieval of factors is

possible thus reducing the need for

referencing the thread consumption ratio table and mismatch in values.


The report has been designed on lines of the real life report made by a merchandiser
for calculating consumption per thread for an order quantity for booking purposes.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3 DEVELOPMENT

5.3.1 FACTOR SHEET


The development of the calculator started with the data collection of the
factors/thread consumption ratios for different machines. This data was provided by
the IE dept of Alok industries Garments division.
A separate worksheet named factors had been developed for the purpose of
tabulating the data of thread consumption ratios.

Fig 5.3.1.1:- Thread consumption factor sheet


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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3.2 WELCOME SCREEN


The welcome screen contains a calculate button connected to the calculator
worksheet. This screen is purely a start-up screen meant for introductory display
purposes.

Fig 5.3.2.1:- Welcome screen


5.3.3 REPORT SCREEN
The report sheet consists of the report format which has links with that of
the calculator so as calculate the consumption for not only per garment
for various thread types but also for the order quantity of the particular
style. This report helps in shortening the process required for compiling
consumption for a order quantity.

Fig 5.3.3.1 Consumption


report for Merchandiser
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3.4 Development tools and techniques


The calculator has been made using formulas, referencing and programming tools.
Linking has using sheet reference technique has been used for the purpose of value
retrieval.
5.3.4.1 Formulas
The formulas used range from mathematical, logical, lookup and reference and
information.
Some of the main formulas used are as follows:

SUM()[mathematical]

IF()[logical]

OR()[logical]

VLOOKUP(Lookup and referencing)

ISERROR(information)

Fig 5.3.4.1.1 Total consumption calculation

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Fig 5.3.4.1.2 Needle /bobbin/spreader consumption

Fig 5.3.4.1.3 Needle /bobbin/spreader consumption allocation


using logical formulas

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3.4.2

Referencing

Cell referencing has been used in order to reference values from one cell to another
for purpose of creating the report, calculations and retrieve values in controls.

5.3.4.3

Programming tools

Visual basic controls like command button and combo box list have been used for
the purpose of proving various functional features.
Combo boxes have been used in columns like m/c selection, spreader used, needle,
bobbin and spreader thread descriptions. These boxes help in easy and quick
selection.
Command buttons have been used to provide functionality such as saving, resetting
fields and generating the report.

Fig 5.3.4.3.1 command buttons

Fig 5.3.4.3.2 Drop down combo boxes

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6. Testing
The calculator had been tested for its functionality by calculating the consumptions
for previous, running and forthcoming styles in order to confirm and compare the
results with the already calculated values so as to determine its reliability and error
free functioning.
The following previously produced styles have been tested
S.no

Style no.

Consumption

Consumption

(calculator)

(manual)

variation

1.

MB2196

99.236

99.349

0.11

2.

8623

174.850

174.85

3.

SAW 406

92.625

91.325

-1.42

4.

Dear hood

184.795

187.265

1.31

5.

8081

179.712

179.712

6.

EG 56

163.852

163.852

7.

Asahi

139.328

140.627

0.923

8.

FP002

221.033

221.292

0.11

9.

Bjornklader

254.475

254.475

10.

8054

505.81

505.81

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

CONCLUSION /DELIVERABLES

The thread consumption calculator is an easy to use and efficient tool to calculate
thread consumptions. The calculator provides a hassle free interface for selection. A
standard format helps in data entry purposes. A human error in data entry reduces to
only the seam lengths, number of seams and the seam type.

The calculator report

also provides a systematic report of the consumption

calculated. It also reduces the merchandisers work of compiling the consumption for
order quantities based on the consumption per garment given by IE. The report can
also be helpful in thread booking purposes which can be sent to the thread store by
the merchandiser from where the thread store can proceed with the process of
thread booking.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

LEARNING EXPERIENCE
The internship in many ways provided a platform for new experiences in terms of
industrial exposure as well as personal experiences in terms of tour and travel to
new places and accommodating ourselves into the busy schedules which otherwise
are not experienced in college. Industrial exposure not only drove our curiosity to
know more than our limited textual knowledge but even compelled to get ourselves
involved in the process as a whole. The project undertaken by us exposed us to the
actual working feel and conditions and helped us to tune according to the industry
needs. We first were allowed to observe as much and then our doubts were cleared.
Various communication techniques and industrial practices which are important for
professional behaviour were learnt through our interactions with the industry officials.
Our Interactions with our mentor Mr. Samuel Mupavvarapu were motivational and a
inspirational interaction that fuelled our curiosity for internship with full confidence
and dedication. The managers to whom we were entrusted to meet to learn about
the respective dept.s were under huge pressures of work but never did it happen
that anyone would deny us any answer to the query which we would ask them at
any point of time, their such generous nature helped us getting the information we
required time to time.

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