t e xt ile le arne r.blo gspo t .

in

http://textilelearner.blo gspo t.in/2014/01/co nfiguratio n-o f-spreading-systems-used.html

Configuration of Spreading Systems Used in Apparel Industry

CONFIGURAT ION OF SPREADING SYST EMS USED IN APPAREL INDUST RY
Sadia Alam
KCC Women's College (Af f iliated by Khulna University)
Khulna, Bangladesh
Email: sadia.jui93@gmail.com

1.1 Fabric Spreading:

Fabric spreading means smooth lying out of f abrics as per marker direction. Fabric spreading is the
preparatory process f or cutting. In this processing no. of plies up to 300 is possible in one lay. T his is a
preparatory operation f or cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of the other in a
predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the cloth. T he composition
of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained f rom the cut order plan. Number of plies
depends on:
1. Capacity of the cutting machine
2. Volume of production
3. Type of f abric itself (rough or slippery)
4. T hickness of f abric
1.2. Types of Fabric
Spreading: T he spreads can
be of two basic types:

1. Flat spreads- all

plies are of the same
length.
2. Stepped spreadsthis as the name
suggests, is built up in
steps, with all the plies
in one step having the
same length. A stepped
spread is generally
used when the
Fig : Fab ric s p re ad ing
quantities to be cut
precludes the use of a
flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is
needed.

1.3. Spreading Quality Specification:

1. Spreading quality must be measured with respect to the f ollowing f actors:

2. Ply alignment: length and width

3. Ply tension: stretch, slack edge
4. Grain alignment: bowing
5. Splicing: waste and precision;
6. Damage placement: economy of placement;
7. Surf ace direction; and
8. Static electricity
1.4. Fabric Spreading Objective:
T he objective of spreading is given below--1. To place a number of plies of f abric under the marker according to the planning process.
2. In the color required
3. Correctly aligned as to length and width
4. At correct tension
1.5. General Fabric Spreading System:
Bef ore spreading some parameters must be keep in mind-1. Mark the Splice Z one on the Spreading Table
2. Use Paper f or the f irst ply in case the table surf ace is rough or when f ine f abrics are being spread
3. Identif y the def ects noticed in the f abric by means of sticker
4. Use lubricated paper f or separating layer
5. To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse f abrics).
6. To prevent f using in the synthetic f abrics.
7. Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.
1.6. How to spread:
Pull the f abric to f ar end position
Position the f abric at the f ar end (with our without weight or pins)
Align the ply (width on one side
Cut the ply af ter each la
Repeat this process f rom until the entire roll is spread
Check ply count
1.7. Spreading layering the fabrics:
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic f or obtaining a high
quality f inal product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of f abric onto long, wide tables in
preparation f or cutting each piece of a garment. T he number of layers of f abric is dictated by the number
of garments desired and the f abric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used f or bulk production.
1.8. Spreading or Laying:
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of f abric onto long, wide tables in preparation f or cutting
each piece of a garment. T he number of layers of f abric is dictated by the number of garments desired and
the f abric thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or machine. Depending upon the f abric and cutting
technology, up to 200 layers of f abric may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more dif f icult to handle are
generally cut in thinner stacks.

Spreading and cutting is smooth laying

out of f abric in superimposed layers or
piles of specif ied length. T he cutting
marker is laid on the topmost layer. T he
maximum cutting width is the usable f abric
width minus selvedge or needle marks
caused by stencil marks. Fabric utilization
is the amount of f abric actually utilized in
the marker as the percentage of the total
f abric area.
1.9. Types of Lay Plan:
1. Half Garment Lay includes only half
of the garment pieces f or example
one side lef t or right. Generally used
f or tubular f abrics.

Fig : Sp re ad ing laye ring the fab ric s

2. Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, lef t and right sides. Generally used f or Open width
f abrics.
3. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the
consumption of f abric is higher.
1.10. Types of Lay:

1. Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples

2. Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other
3. Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for
getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.

1.11. Removing Tension in the Lay:

1. An essential element of spreading is to relax tension in the fabric during the

2. Spreading process. Should there be any significant stretch in the fabric after
3. Spreading, when the fabric is cut into parts, each part will shrink. Even 5% shrinkage is
enough to change a whole garment size

1.12. Forms of Spreading:

1. One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in
the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
2. Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern
runs in the same direction.
3. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to righ and right to left without
cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or
one directional printed fabric.

1.13. Presentation of Fabrics:

Presentation depends on type of materials, their application. Generally f abrics are Open width (rolled),
Doubled (wound) and Tubular (plaited)
1.6. Requirements of Spreading Process:
Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of f abric must be at least
equal to marker length and width.
Elimination of f abric def ects/f laws- any f aults identif ied on the incoming f abrics will be tagged and
will be avoided.
Correct ply direction (especially f or asymmetrically printed f abrics)- all f aces up, all f aces down, f ace
to f ace etc.
Correct ply tension- ply tension must be unif orm and as much less as possible.
Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply
to resist f riction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knif e.
Fabrics must be f lat and f ree f rom any crinkle & crease- these cause def ects in garments due to
variation in dimension.
Checks and stripes should be matched.
1.14. Objectives of spreading process:
1. Understanding the process of f abric spreading
2. Factors af f ecting spreading
3. Face and nap of the f abric
1.15. T he Spreading Process:
Spreading process and spreading mode is very important terms of garments manuf acturing. Quality of
garments depends upon the spreading process and spreading mode. Manual spreading process is slower
than automatic spreading process. Quality of spreading process is depends upon operator quality.
Two aspects of spreading that af f ect spreading ef f iciency are the setup and actual layout of f abric. Setup
involves loading and threading f abric through the spreader and positioning the machine and related
equipment. T he actual process of spreading involves laying out f abric in the desired number of layers.
Fabric may be spread f ace up, f ace down, or f ace-to-f ace.
1.16. Spreading Modes:
A spreading mode is the manner in which f abric plies are laid out f or cutting. T he spreading mode is
determined by the f abric characteristics, quality standards of the f irm, and available equipment.
Two f abric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the direction of f abric f ace and the
direction of the f abric nap.
1. Direction of Fabric Nap:
A second consideration in selecting the spreading mode relates to the direction of the f abric nap.
Placement of the nap may be nap-one-way (N/OW) or nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).
2. Direction of Fabric Face
T he f abric f ace may be positioned in two ways: f ace-to-f ace (F/F) or with all plies f acing-one-way (F/O/W),
f ace up or f ace down. Face-to-f ace (F/F) spreading may be continuous as the spreader moves up and
down the table.
1.17. Fabric Put-up and Spreading Modes:

1. Fabric Put-up; Open and Rolled

2. Fabric Put-up; Folded and Rolled
3. Fabric Put-up; Tubular Fabric
Rolled 4. Spreading Mode; Open
Fabric, Face One Way, Nap One
Way (F/O/W, N/O/W) 5. Spreading
Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way,
Nap UP and Down (F/O/W, N/U/D) 6.
Spreading Mode; Open Fabric,
Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F,
N/O/W) 7. Spreading Mode; Open
Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and
Down (F/F, N/U/D)
8. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric,
Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F,
N/O/W)
9. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric,
Face to Face, Nap Up and Down

Fig : Fab ric is flat o p e n with the fac e to the ins id e o f the ro ll

Fig : Fab ric is fo ld e d o n o ne e nd and b o th s e lve d g e s are s up e rimp o s e d o n the o the r e d g e o f the ro ll . Fac e is to the ins id e o f
e ac h fo ld e d laye r

Fig : Tub ular Fab ric fro m a c irc ular knitting mac hine is ro lle d up . Fac e is to the ins id e o f the ro ll, and the re is a fo ld at e ac h e nd o f
the ro ll

(F/F, N/U/D)

1.18. T he Method of Fabric

Spreading:
T he Method of Fabric Spreading are
describe below:
1. Manual method: T his method is
three types:

a. By hand
b. By hook
c. Spreading truck with the help
of operator.
Fig : Sp re ad ing s tarts at o ne e nd o f the tab le o n e ac h p ly

2. Mechanical method: T his method

Fig : Sp re ad ing s tarts at o ne e nd o f the tab le . Fab ric is c ut at the far e nd , ro tate d 180 d e g re e s , the n s p re ad to the b e g inning . The
Fab ric is c ut and ro tate d 180 d e g re e s the n the p ro c e s s is re p e ate d .

Fig : Sp re ad ing s tarts at o ne e nd o f the tab le . Fab ric is c ut at the far e nd , the ro ll is b ro ug ht to the b e g inning o f the tab le , ro tate d
180 d e g re e s , the n s p re ad to the far e nd ag ain. The Fab ric is c ut at the far e nd , b ro ug ht b ac k to the b e g inning o f the tab le , ro tate d
180 d e g re e s the n the p ro c e s s is re p e ate d .

Fig : Sp re ad ing s tarts at o ne e nd o f the tab le . Fab ric is fo ld e d o ve r at the far e nd , the n s p re ad ing c o ntinue s b ac k to the b e g inning
o f the tab le . The Fab ric is fo ld e d o ve r the n the p ro c e s s is re p e ate d .

Fig : Fo ld e d fab ric s p re ad ing s tarts at o ne e nd o f the tab le . Fab ric is c ut at the far e nd , the n re turne d to the b e g inning . The n the
p ro c e s s is re p e ate d . O n the c o ntro l s id e o f the tab le the Fo ld is s up e rimp o s e d o ne laye r o n the p re vio us laye r. This p ro c e s s is
als o us e d o n tub ular ro lle d fab ric

Fig : Sp re ad ing s tarts at o ne e nd o f the tab le . Fab ric is s p re ad to the far e nd o f the tab le . The fab ric is fo ld e d o ve r, the n s p re ad
b ac k to the b e g inning . The fab ric is fo ld e d o ve r, the n the p ro c e s s is re p e ate d . O n the c o ntro l s id e o f the tab le the Fo ld is
s up e rimp o s e d o ne laye r o n the p re vio us laye r. This p ro c e s s is als o us e d o n tub ular ro lle d fab ric

is two types:

a. Semiautomatic
b. Full automatic

By Hand: Fabric roll is spreaded on the

table by two laborers according to the
length & width of marker. Sometimes it
is done by entering a rod which is made
by wood or metal in the center paper
table which is present in the center of
the f abric roll.
Fig : THE SPREADING PRO CESS & SPREADING MO DES O F FABRIC IN A
By Hook: In this process the top of the
G ARMENTS FACTO RY
table on which the f abric is spreaded is
set at 10 angle perpendicularly. T he hook which placed on the upper f ace of the table is 15cm long and the
hook is joined with one end of selvedge of the f abric. Af ter completing the spreading of f abric, the top of
the table is set again. T he hooks are displaced and the marker is spreaded on the f abric lay.

Spreading truck with the help of operator: T here is a spreading truck on the one end of the spreading
table in which the f abric roll is placed. T hen the truck is operated by hand f rom one end to the other end of
the table & with the same time the f abric is open out f rom the f abric roll and the f abric is spreaded
according to the length and width.
Semiautomatic: Spreading machine is run on the rails which are placed at two side of f abric spreading
table surf ace and operated by motor. Fabric roll is set in a predetermined place of the machine. T he
machine is run f rom one side to the other side of table by using electrical and mechanical motion and f abric
is spreaded to make lay.
Full automatic: T his is the improvement of semiautomatic machine. T here are so many advantages of this
machine to make f abric lay because this machine is operated by controlling with the help of robot and micro
processor.
1.19. Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines:
All the requirements of spreading process can be f ulf illed by f ully automatic spreading machines. T heir
f eatures include:
Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device f or f abric rolls.
Automatic roll turning arrangement f or f ace to back lay.
Automatic leveling device f or f abric edge alignment.
Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutof f ) at the end of a run.
Automatic tensioning device to control f abric tension.
Automatic lay height sensing elevator.
Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.
Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.
1.20. Techniques for Spreading Quality:
Removing Tension in the lay
Cutting at the Ends

Reducing f abric waste at the end

Fabric Control during Spreading
Damage Remove
Ends and Damaged Good.
Spreading is the main operation where quality can be control bef ore cutting.