Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
U,S, Foodand
Drug Administration,
Officeof Cosmetics
and Colors,
200 C St. SW,
Washington
DC 20204.
Accepted
for publication
August31, 1999.
Synopsis
A methodis describedfor the determinationof glycolicacid, lactic acid, citric acid, phenol, resorcinol,
salicyclicacid, tx-hydroxyoctanoic
acid, and tx-hydroxydecanoic
acid in commercialcreamsand lotins. A
mixtureof the productanda filter aid wasextractedwith an appropriatesolvent.The extractswerecleaned
up by eithersolid-phase
extractionchromatography
or ion-exchange
chromatography.
The resultingextracts
wereanalyzedby HPLC usinga C8 column.Recoveries
of citric acid,lacticacid,phenol,resorcinol,
and
salicylicacid addedto a simpleemulsionrangedfrom 99% to 102%, while recoveries
of glycolicacid
averaged93%. tx-Hydroxyoctanoic
acid and tx-hydroxydecanoic
acid recoveries
from a commerciallotion
rangedfrom 90% to 101%. The resultsof surveys
of commercial
productsobtaineddirectlyfrom manufacturers,andpurchased
from salons,retail stores,and throughthe mail, from 1992 to 1996, arepresented.
INTRODUCTION
To improvethe appearance
of facialskin, dermatologists
havedevelopedtechniquesto
removethe skin'supper layers.Mechanicaltechniquessuchas dermabrasionand dermaplaninghavebeenusedfor the treatmentof acnescarringand skin wrinkling (1,2).
Sincethe 1960s chemicalmethodsof skin peeling using keratolyticagentssuch as
trichloroacetic
acid,phenol,resorcinol,
and salicyclicacidhavebeenused(3-6). Chemicalpeelingis typicallyperformedby a dermatologistor trainedsaloncosmetologist
and
hasbeenusedto treat skin wrinkling, pigmentationdisorders,photoaging,acnescarring, and premalignantlesions(3,8-10). Since1992 there has been a proliferationof
productsdesignedto exfoliatethe skin marketedas cosmeticsto the generalpublic
(11,12). Theseproductsmostoftencontainglycolicand lacticacids,which aregenerally
referredto as ot-hydroxyacids(AHAs). Market claims for productscontainingAHAs
have included diminishing of skin wrinkling, eveningof skin tones, skin softening/
smoothing,repairof sundamage,repairof skin imperfectionssuchasminor scarringand
sun damage,and increasedskin elasticity/firmness
(10,13-16).
315
316
(HPLC) methodshavebeendescribed
for the determinationof phenolin urine(24-26),
water (27), rain (28), serum(29), honey(30), and polyvinylchloride(31). HPLC methods
havebeenreportedfor the determinationof salicylicacidasa metabolitein plasma(32)
and urine (33). An HPLC methodfor the determinationof resorcinolin erythrosinehas
beenreported(34). Reversed-phase
HPLC wasusedfor the determinationof wine acids
(35). The determinationof glycolicacid in urine by HPLC and gaschromatography-
massspectrometry
wasusedto estimatecanineexposure
to ethyleneglycol(36). The
HPLC determinationof urinaryglycolicacid wasusedasan indicatorof possiblelevels
of oxalicacid in the body(37).
This reportdescribes
an HPLC methodfor the determination
of glycolicacid,lacticacid,
citric acid, o-hydroxyoctanoic
acid, o-hydroxydecanoic
acid, phenol, resorcinol,and
salicylicacid.Surveysof salonproductsandretail productsavailableto consumers
in the
U.S. wereconducted.The pH of eachproductwasalsodetermined.The resultsof these
surveysare reported.
EXPERIMENTAL
MATERIALS
ACID
DETERMINATION
IN COSMETIC
PREPARATIONS
317
Glycolic acid (99%), lactic acid (85%) in water, citric acid (99%), phenol (99%),
resorcinol(99%), and salicylicacid (99%) were obtainedfrom Aldrich Chemical Co.
(Milwaukee,WI). ot-Hydroxyoctanoic
acid and ot-hydroxydecanoic
acid were obtained
from SigmaChemicalCo. (Morton Grove, IL). Cosmetic-grade
DEG stearatewas obtained from StepanChemicalCo. (Northfield, IL).
LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY
HPLC analyses
wereperformedon a systemconsisting
of two Model 510 HPLC pumps
(WatersAssociates,
Milford, MA), solventprogrammerModel 660 (WatersAssociates),
anda programmablevariableabsorbance
UV-VIS detector(Hitachi L-3000, EM Science,
Cherry Hill, NJ). Product extracts and standard solutionswere introduced into the
HPLC by a Rheodyneinjector(Cotati,CA) equippedwith eithera 20- or 100-pl loop
pH MEASUREMENTS
All pH measurements
weredonewith an EA ExpandableIon Analyzer(Orion Research
Inc., Cambridge,MA). One gram of productwas addedto 9 ml of water and mixed
thoroughlybeforemeasurement
of pH.
STANDARD
SOLUTIONS
solvent B.
318
ISOLATION
OF ANALYTES
analysis.
Resorcinol'
phenol'andsalicylicacid.The productwasmixed with Celite and packedin a
C-18 solid-phase
extractiontube describedabove.The preparedtube wasplacedon the
vacuummanifold and eluted with a mixture of methanol:water:0.1M NH4H2PO 4
(HPLC solventA), 75:15:10.The vacuumwasadjustedto obtaina flow of 3-4 drops/sec.
The eluate was collected in a 25-ml volumetric flask to the mark, mixed well, and
tx-Hydroxyoctanoic
acidandtx-hydroxydecanoic
acid.An ion exchange
columnwasprepared
by firstpushingout the two filter discson a 3-ml filtrationcolumnusinga straightened
paperclip. One of the discswas replaced,and 250 mg of the ion exchangeresinwas
addedfollowedby the secondfilter disc.The resinwasthen washedwith 2 ml of 1.0 N
NaOH to convertthe resinto the free-baseform, followedby 5 ml of water and 3 ml
of 70% methanol.Approximately300 mg of a productor an amountknown to contain
at least 2 mg of the tx-hydroxyacid(s)was accuratelyweighed into a 30-ml beaker.
Approximately1.5 g of Celite was addedand mixed thoroughlywith a spatula.The
mixturewastransferredto a 6-ml filtration columnand tappedon the laboratorybench
to settleand compactthe mixture. A filter disk wasplacedon top of the mixture and
pusheddown firmly with a stirring rod. The filtration columnwasmountedon the ion
exchange
columnwith an adapter.The filtrationcolumnwaselutedwith 20 ml of 70%
methanol.The vacuumwasadjustedto obtaina flow of 4-5 drops/sec.
The eluatewas
discarded.The filtration column containingthe product-Celitemixture was removed,
and3 ml of 1N sulfuricacidwaspassed
throughthe ion exchange
columnanddiscarded.
The ion exchangecolumnwaselutedwith 70% methanol,and the eluatewascollected
in a 25-ml flaskto the mark. The eluatewasmixed thoroughlyand reservedfor HPLC
analysis.
HPLC
ANALYSIS
Product extractswere analyzedby HPLC with the conditionslisted below for each
specificgroup of compounds.
The eluted components
were identifiedby comparing
retentiontimes of productcomponentswith thoseof standards.A standardcalibration
curvewaspreparedfor eachcompoundidentifiedby analyzingthe corresponding
standard solutionsand then plotting mg/ml vs. peak area. If the concentrationof the
compoundbeing determinedfell abovethat of the higheststandard,an appropriate
dilution of the product extract was made and reanalyzed.The concentrationin the
extract was determined
curve.
ACID DETERMINATION
IN COSMETIC
PREPARATIONS
319
tx-Hydroxyoctanoic
acid and tx-hydroxydecanoic
acid.Productscontainingot-hydroxyoctanoic acid and ot-hydroxydecanoic
acid were separatedon a C8 column with a linear
gradientelution usingsolventsB and D. The solventprogramwas 20% D to 90% D
in 25 minutes.The UV detectorwassetat 210 nm.. The volumeof the injectionloop
was 100 pl.
CALCULATIONS
RESULTS
HPLC
AND
DISCUSSION
CONDITIONS
No chromatographic
interferences
wereobservedduring the analysisof more than 100
commercialproductsfor AHAs, as evidencedby consistentchromatographic
retention
timesandpeakwidths,andpeakswith no shoulders.
To assurethat no interferences
were
present,numerousproductextractswerepassedthrougha basicion-exchange
column.
HPLC analysisof the eluatedemonstratedthat there were no chromatographic
inter-
320
10
15
20
25
30
Time (Min.)
Figure 1. HPLCchromatograms
of standards
of A (glycoliclactic,andcitricacids),B (resorcinol,
phenol,
andsalicylicacid),andC (o-hydroxyoctanoic
acidando-hydroxydecanoic
acid).
ACID
DETERMINATION
IN COSMETIC
PREPARATIONS
321
ferences
present.No interferences
wereobserved
duringthe analysisof productsfor
resorcinol,phenol,and salicylicacid.
A numberof chromatographic
interferences
wereobserved
whenproductswereanalyzed
for o-hydroxyoctanoic
ando-hydroxydecanoic
acids.It wasthereforenecessary
to isolate
the acidsfrom productsby ion-exchange
chromatography
prior to HPLC analysis.
LIMIT OF QUANTITATION
VALIDATION
SURVEY
Surveys
of productscontainingkeratolyticagentswereconducted
to determinethe levels
Table
Keratolyticagent
Resorcinol
Phenol
Added(%)
Mean
Recovery(%)
31.45
7.34
29.88
7.11
31.20
7.37
31.92
7.89
31.00
7.46
99
102
Salicylicacid
1.59
1.56
1.57
1.62
1.58
100
Citric acid
Lactic acid
1.43
1.15
1.28
1.10
1.57
1.24
1.50
1.17
1.45
1.17
101
102
Glycolicacid
1.23
1.23
1.18
1.01
1.14
93
322
II
Recoveryof tx-Hydroxyoctanoic
Acid and tx-Hydroxydecanoic
Acid From a CommercialSkinLotion
SampleNo.
Added (mg)
Found (mg)
Recovery(%)
4.37
3.54
4.50
3.00
4.29
3.51
4.08
3.02
98
99
91
101
3.67
3.54
2.86
2.74
3.37
3.20
2.85
2.50
92
90
100
91
o-Hydroxyoctanoic
acid
1
2
3
4
tx-Hydroxydecanoic
acid
i
2
3
4
of thesecompounds
andthe pH of commercial
products.Productswereobtaineddirectly
from manufacturers,
andwerepurchased
from salons,retail stores,andthroughthe mail,
from 1992 to 1996. Productswereanalyzedand keratolyticagentswereidentifiedby
HPLC retentiontime but were not confirmedby massspectrometry.The resultsof the
surveysare summarizedin Table III. Twenty productsobtainedfrom salonswereanalyzed. Glycolicacid wasthe most commonkeratolyticagent and wasfound in 95% of
the productsat concentrations
rangingfrom 3% to 67%. The pH of salonproducts
rangedfrom 0.2 to 4.38, with an averageof 2.95. Forty-fiveproductsobtainedfrom
retailstoresandthroughthe mail wereanalyzedfor keratolyticagents.Glycolicacidwas
the most commonkeratolyticagent,and wasfound in 67% of the productsat levels
rangingfrom 1% to 26%. The pH of commercialproductsrangedfrom 2.42 to 7.40,
with an averageof 3.92.
COSMETIC
INGREDIENT
REVIEW
III
Keratolyticagent
Frequencyof occurrence
Concentrationrange(%)
pH Range
Salonproducts
Glycolicacid
95
3-67
Lactic acid
15
5-7
10
5
11-12
8
2.48
ND b
1-26
2.42-4.26
Salicylicacid
Resorcinol
Commercialproducts
Glycolicacid
67
Lactic acid
22
Salicylicacid
tx-Hydroxyoctanoic
acid
13
11
Resorcinol
11
Phenol
Citric acid
9
4
tx-Hydroxydecanoic
Acid
0.4-9
0.1-5
0.01-0.4
1-35
1-7
0.2-4
0.04-0.3
0.2-4.38
2.48-2.81
2.67-5.65
4.00-7.40
3.47-3.65
4.00-4.78
4.00-4.78
2.67-5.38
3.47-3.86
b Not determined.
ACID
DETERMINATION
IN COSMETIC
PREPARATIONS
323
reviewsandassesses
the safetyof cosmeticingredients,hasreviewedthe safetyof glycolic
andlacticacidsand their saltsand simpleesters.In 1997 the CIR issueda final report
on thesecompounds.
The panelconcludedthat in commercialproductstheseingredients
are safefor use at 10% levelsat pH 3.5, when formulatedto avoid increasingsun
sensitivityor whendirectionsfor useincludethe daily useof sunprotection.The panel
alsoconcludedthat thesecompounds
aresafefor usein salonproductsat 30% at pH 3.0,
forproductsdesignedfor brief,discontinuous
usefollowedby thoroughrinsingfromthe
skin, when appliedby trainedprofessionals
and when applicationis accompanied
by
directionsfor the daily useof sunprotection(38).
FDA
CONCERNS
INVESTIGATIONS
REFERENCES
324
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ACID
DETERMINATION
IN COSMETIC
PREPARATIONS
325
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