TIU LUN

ti: NG DNG CC CHT HOT NG B MT TRONG

M PHM DNH CHO NAM

Mc lc

Trang

I.

Cc nguyn liu c bn sn xut m phm: ..................................................................................... 3

II.

Gii thiu v cht hot ng b mt s dng trong m phm: ............................................................. 4

III. Chn la v s dng cht hot ng b mt cho tng mc ch: ........................................................ 5

1. Ty ra: ................................................................................................................................................ 5
2. Thm t: ............................................................................................................................................. 6
3. To bt: ................................................................................................................................................. 6
4. Nh ha:................................................................................................................................................ 6
5. Lm tan: ................................................................................................................................................ 6
IV.

Cc tnh cht khc ca cht hot ng b mt .................................................................................... 6

V.

Nh tng: ............................................................................................................................................ 7
1. nh ngha: ........................................................................................................................................... 7
2. Tnh cht: .............................................................................................................................................. 7
3. Mt s hng dn chung chn cht nh ha: .................................................................................. 8
a.

La chn theo tnh nng: .............................................................................................................. 8

b.

La chn theo sn phm: .............................................................................................................. 9

4. Cch sn xut nh m phm ............................................................................................................... 10

5. Mt s vn cn quan tm trong sn xut nh m phm ................................................................. 10
6. Tc nhn to nh:................................................................................................................................ 11
a.

Cht nh ha anion:.................................................................................................................... 11

b.

Cht nh ha NI .......................................................................................................................... 12

7. Mt s cht hot ng b mt s dng nhiu trong phi ch du gi ................................................ 12

a. Cc cht hot ng b mt ationic............................................................................................... 12
b. Cc cht hot ng b mt cationic ............................................................................................ 14
c.

Cc cht hot ng b mt lng tnh ........................................................................................ 14

d. Cc cht hot ng b mt noionic ............................................................................................. 14

Gii thiu thnh phn c trong du gi du: ........................................................................................... 16
Sn phm du gi nc hoa X-men Sport .......................................................................................... 16
Sn phm du gi Oxy perfect shampoo ............................................................................................. 16
Gii thiu thnh phn c trong sa tm: ................................................................................................. 18

Sn phm sa tm X-men Boss ........................................................................................................... 18

Sn phm sa tm Oxy Deep shower.................................................................................................. 19
VI. Kho st tnh cht cc cht hot ng b mt chnh c trong sn phm du gi u cho nam: ............ 20
VII. nh hng ca CHBM n con ngi v mi trng:..................................................................... 26
1. nh hng ca CHBM: ................................................................................................................... 26
2. Nhng cht c tim nng c ............................................................................................................. 26
3. c tnh ca cht hot ng b mt anionic v non-ionic .................................................................. 27
VIII c trng sn phm dnh cho nam: ................................................................................................... 27
1. Yu t v da: ....................................................................................................................................... 27
2. Yu t mi: .......................................................................................................................................... 28

I. Cc nguyn liu c bn sn xut m phm:

-Cc du, m, sp.

-Cht hot ng b mt

-Cht lm m

-Cht st trng

-Cht bo qun

-Cht chng oxy ha

-Cht mu

-Hng liu

-Cc cht ph gia khc.

S lng cng nh thnh phn ca cc nguyn liu ty theo cng thc ca tng
loi sn phm. Mi loi nguyn liu c th c mt hoc nhiu chc nng, v c tc
ng tng ng hoc h tr cho cc nguyn liu khc.
II. Gii thiu v cht hot ng b mt s dng trong m phm:

Tnh cht: Hin tng c bn ca cht hot ng b mt l hp ph, n c th dn
n hai hiu ng hon ton khc nhau:
-Lm gim mt hay nhiu sc cng b mt cc mt phn gii trong h thng.
-Bn ha mt hay nhiu mt phn gii bng s to thnh cc lp b hp ph.
Mt tc nhn hot ng b mt l mt vt liu c tnh cht lm thay i nng
lng b mt m n tip xc. S gim nng lng b mt c th d quan st thy
trong s to bt, s lan rng mt cht lng trn mt cht rn, s phn tn cc ht
rn trong mi trng lng v s to huyn ph,

Vic s dng cht hot ng b mt trong m phm: c 5 lnh vc chnh ty
thuc vo tnh cht ca chng:
-Ty ra.
- Lm t khi cn c s tip xc tt gia dung dch v i tng.
- To bt.
- Nh ha trong cc sn phm, s to thnh v bn ca nh tng l quyt nh,
v d trong kem da v tc.
-Lm tan khi cn a vo sn phm cu t khng tan, v d nh a hng liu.

Phn loi cht hot ng b mt:
Tt c cc cht hot ng b mt thng c mt c im chung v cu trc: phn
t c hai phn: mt phn k nc v mt phn a nc.
Phn k nc thng l cc mch hay vng hydrocacbon hay hn hp ca c hai

Phn a nc thng l cc nhm phn cc nh cc nhm carboxylic, sulfate,

sulfonate.
C th phn loi cht hot ng b mt theo nhiu cch, nhng c l hp l
nht l phn loi theo tnh cht ion, ta c bn loi:
-Cht hot ng b mt anion.
-Cht hot ng b mt cation.
-Cht hot ng b mt khng ion.
-Cht hot ng b mt lng tnh.
III.

Chn la v s dng cht hot ng b mt cho tng mc ch:

1. Ty ra:
L mt qu trnh phc tp lin quan n vic thm t i tng ( tc hay da).
Nu cc cht cn loi l dng rn dnh m, qu trnh ty ra lin quan n s
nh tng ha cc cht du c loi i v bn ha nh tng.

CHBM chnh:
+ CHBM du khng c, ty ra tt, to bt tt, t rt da: SLES, ALES,
Cetyl ete sulfat, sunfosucinat Na
+ CHBM cc du ty ra tt, t to bt, khng lm rt: este sorbitoan
polyetoxy ho cc aicd bo

Cht ng HBM: thng dng cc CHBM lng tnh c tc dng gia

tng bt, gia tng nhn, ci thin du, lm gim hin tng kh da
nh CAPB (lng, vng nht),

Ngoi ra cn c th s dng mt s CHBM khc.

2. Thm t:
Tt c cc tc nhn hdbm u c mt s tnh cht lm t. Trong m phm,
ngi ta thng s dng cc alkyl sulfat mch ngn ( C12), hoc alkyl ether
sulfat.
3. To bt:
Thng s dng SLES tng cng vi cc alkanolamide to th tch bt ln v
bn.
4. Nh ha:
Mt tc nhn nh ha tt i hi phn k nc hi di hn tc nhn thm t.
Hin nay x phng vn cn c s dng lm tc nhn nh ha trong m phm
do d iu ch. Nu mt acid bo c a vo pha du v kim c a vo
pha nc, khi cc nh tng bn du trong nc d . dng hnh thnh khi
trn ln. Nh tng nc trong du nh trong mt s kem tc thng c bn
ha bng x phng cha Kali.
Cc cht hot ng b mt khng ion cng c gi tr trong nh tng.
5. Lm tan:
Tt c cc cht hot ng b mt trn nng CMC u c tnh cht lm tan.
iu ny quan trng khi cn phi kt hp hng liu hu c hay mt cht hu
c khng tan vo sn phm, v d nh x phng gi u. X phng, alkyl ether
sulfate v phn ln l cc cht hot ng b mt c s dng cho mc ch
ny, tuy nhin cn s dng nng cao qu trnh lm tan tt.
IV. Cc tnh cht khc ca cht hot ng b mt
Ngoi nhng tnh cht ni trn, mt s cht hot ng b mt c nhng tnh
cht ring bit sau:
-Tt c cc cht hot ng b mt cation hp ph mnh trn protein v cc i
tng khc tch in m, v th chng c dng ci thin tnh cht b mt ca
cc i tng, v d lm tng cm gic bng v mt ca tc. Cc hp cht cation
c kh nng dit khun v c s dng trong x phng, gi u c bit v nc
sc ming.

Sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinat c kh nng c ch enzyme hexokinasc ( enzyme c

lin quan n qu trnh thy phn ng trong ming) c s dng trong kem
nh rng.
-Khng nn s dng hn hp cc cht hot ng b mt cation v anion do chng
c th to thnh cc mui cation-anion khng tan, ngay c cc cht hot ng b
mt aninon cng c nh hng ln nhau. V d: bt sinh ra bi SLES c th d
dng b ph hy bi x phng, tnh cht ny c ng dng cho cc cng thc ty
ra to bt thp.
V. Nh tng:
1. nh ngha:
Nh tng mt h hai pha cha hai cht lng khng tan ln vo nhau, trong
mt pha phn tn trong pha cn li di dng nhng ht cu c ng knh trong
khong 0.2 - 50m.
Khi ni n nh tng trong m phm, ngi ta khng hn ch nhng h lng
lng n gin m cn nhng ht phc. Tuy nhin, c trng chung ca cc h
l phi c mt pha ho nc v mt pha ho du. Khi pha ho nc (pha phn tn:
Cht nm trong) phn tn trong pha ho du (pha lin lc: Cht nm ngoi) ta c
h nc trong du v ngc li ta c h du trong nc, trong pha nc lin tc
cha nhng phn t mang mu phn tn v pha du phn tn trng thi bn rn
bao gm nhng phn t sp tan trong du lng.
2. Tnh cht:

T l th tch pha: nh m phm th hm lng pha phn tn c th trong khong
5 60%.

Bn cht vt l ca cc pha:
+ Pha du: c th trng thi lng - rn, c im nng chy t 600C tr ln.
+ Pha ho nc: l h nc keo rn
S cha ng v phn tn nhng ht rn quyt nh bn cht ca h nh tng

Bn cht ca cht to nh:
+ Dng nh: c xc nh thng qua cht to nh, t l pha v phng php iu
ch.


Cch xc nh dng nh:

Cho mt phn nh nh vo du v nc .
Rc bt thuc nhum tan c trong du v tan c trong nc ln b mt
nh
o dn in bng my kim tra nh

S phn b kch thc tiu phn:

i v cc h nh thng thng th kch thc ht phn tn thng khng

ng nht.

S phn b kch thc thnh phn ng nht s lm cho h n nh hn.

Cch o kch thc pha phn tn

- Dng knh hin vi.
- o t l ng cn
- o s phn tn nh sng
3. Mt s hng dn chung chn cht nh ha:
a. La chn theo tnh nng:

 Glyceryl stearate v laureth-2,3 (2-5%)+PEG-20 stearate (2-5%)

- Kem (nh O/W) mm v mn hn.
- n inh trong cng thc cha AHAs
- To s kt hp tt cho cc nh c pH trong khong 4-9

 Diethylaminoethylstearate + acid ( trung ha)

- Rt hiu qu trong nh O/W.
- iu ch nh c tnh acid khng cn thm cc cht nh ha khc.

 Glyceryl stearate (4%) + GMS(6-7%)

- To nh O/W n nh trong mi trng pH t thp n cao

 Glyceryl stearate ,stearylalcol, Na laurylsulfate (khong 3%)

-

Cht nh ha anionic

Dng cho cc loi kem, lotion v thuc m O/W

- c bit tt cho cc cng thc c cht chng ra m hi, cht in

phn
-

pH > 5.5

 Glyceryl stearate (4-6%) + PEG-20 stearate (2-4%)

-

Lm cho kem cng hn, c hn, sng v c hn.

Tt cho kem c nhiu thnh phn phc tp

 Glyceryl stearate SE (2-5%)

-

Cht nh ha anionic tt cho ph phm loi O/W

Ch tt cho cc h c pH cao

Dng ring l hay kt hp vi cc cht nh ha O/W

b. La chn theo sn phm:

 Dng sa /Lotion c nht < 10.000 cps

-

Glyceryl stearate v laureth-2,3 (3-4%) + PEG-20 stearate (2.5-3%)

Glyceryl stearate (5-6%) + PEG-20 stearate (2.5-3%)

 Dng lotion c/ kem mm c nht t 10.000 35.000 cps

-

Glyceryl stearate v laureth-2,3 (5-6%) + PEG-20 stearate (3-4%)

Glyceryl stearate SE (5-6%) v PEG-20 stearate (3-4%)

Glyceryl stearate, stearyl alcol, Nalauryl sulfate (5-6%) + PEG-20

stearate (2-3%)

Propylenglycol stearate (3-4%) + PEG-20 stearate (2-3%)

 Dng kem cng v c c nht > 50.000 cps

Glyceryl stearate v laureth-2,3 (7.5-8%) + PEG-20 stearate (3.54.5%)

Glyceryl stearate v laureth-2,3 (5-6%) + cerasynt M (2.5-3.5%)

4. Cch sn xut nh m phm

Cc giai on sn xut nh: 3 giai on

Trn ln cc pha:
- Gia nhit hai pha n khong 700C
- Trn:
+ Cho pha phn tn vo pha lin tc.
+ Cho pha lin tc vo pha phn tn.
+ Cho ng thi c hai.
 Giai on lm lnh nh:
- Tc lm lnh.
- Cch trn
 Giai on ng nht nh:
5. Mt s vn cn quan tm trong sn xut nh m phm

nh hng nh:
- Khng dng cht nh ho:
+ Nu ban u bnh khuy cha pha no th pha rt d l pha
lin tc trc khi cho phan th hai vo.
+ Vn tc khuy cao th pha nng c khuynh hng l pha lin tc.
+ Nu cnh khuy t trong pha W th nh O/W hnh thnh.
- C dng cht nh ho:
 Loi nh to thnh s ph thuc vo cht to nh.

 La chn cht to nh c nh hng n tnh cht cng nh cm

quan ca nh.

Kim tra loi nh tng

Kim tra nhanh tnh n nh ca sn phm:
Php th nhanh da trn cc yu t: nhit , nh sng, s chuyn
ng c hc, pH, m,
VD: h kem: ngi ta thng dng nhit v tc ng c hc (ly tm,
lc).

S n nh ca nh
Do nng lng tha trn b mt phn cch v lm gim nng
lng ny th cc git lng cng loi kt dnh li vi nhau dn n ph hu
nh.

Mt s yu t lm ph nh
- Cht in li ho tr cao
- Cht hot ng b mt hoc cht c kh nng y cht nh ho ra
khi h.
- Ly tm, lc, un nng,.
6. Tc nhn to nh:
Cc loi cht nh ha.
Nh m phn ch yu s dng cht to nh anion v NI.
a. Cht nh ha anion:

X phng l cht nh ha u tin c s dng trong m phm v hin nay vn
cn c s dng rng ri. Nhng x phng n chc tan trong nc dng lm
cht to nh O/W nh x phng Na, K, NH4 v ammonium ca nhng axit bo:
Oleate, stearate v sp ong, thng nhng cht phn cc c th ha tan du
nh ru bo, ester ca axit bo c mch C cao nh Glyceryl mono stearate c
dng lm cht n nh. Nhng x phng a chc ca Ca, Mg, Al to nh W/O.
Nhng cht phn cc bo ca cholesterol c dng tng n nh ca nhng
h nh W/O.


Ngoi ra nhng Alkyl sunfat l nhng cht nh ha O/W hu hiu khi dng kt
hp vi nhng tc nhn n nh nh ru bo.
b. Cht nh ha NI
Chng c th to ra nh W/O hau O/W. Hin nay ngi ta tng hp c nhiu
cht nh ha NI. c bit l nhng ester ca axit bo v polyalcol (T propylene
glycol n sorbitol), nhng dn xut ca polyoxyetylen. Nhng thnh phn bo
ca nhng hp cht ny thng c ngun gc t sp hoc cht bo thin nhin.
7. Mt s cht hot ng b mt s dng nhiu trong phi ch du gi
a. Cc cht hot ng b mt ationic

Cc loi x phng v c (Na, K) v hu c (alkanolamid)

 u im:
t nguy him i vi mt
Khng ly i qu nhiu cht du m
Lm tc mm mi v d dng chi
R tin
 Nhc im
To pH kim, gy n da
B nh hng khi dng nc cng (to kt ta lm tc mt
bng, gim kh nng gi sch v lm gim bt

Cc cht sulfonat
LAS (linear Alkylbenzen Sulfonat)

 u im:
Kh nng ly cht du cao (3-4% i vi du gi cho tc du)
Khng thy phn trong kim
R tin

Alpha olefin sulfonat

u im:








Sulfosuccinat

n nh tt vi pH thp
C th s dng nc cng
Kh nng to bt cao khi c cht nhn
c thp
Ha tan tt, t mu sc, t mi
Tc ng ln da mc va phi

u im:

 C c tnh ty ra tt
 C kh nng to bt tt
 Tc ng nh ln da m khng lm cay mt

Nhc im: Nhm ester ca chng d b thy phn do nn s

dng trong vng pH 6-8 (Tt nht l 6.5)
Sulfo alkyl amid ca acid bo
Cht thng dng: N-ayltaurit v N-metyl taurit
Phn tn tt cc x phng canxi, chng kt ta Acyl isothionat
Cc c tnh tng ng vi sulfosuccinat
t ha tan trong nc lnh: Thng c u tin s dng trong
cc du gi c

Cc cht sulfat






Alkylsulfat PAS (Dy di): LS Na, natri laurylsulfat: C12H25OSO3Na

- Ty ra tt
- Nh tng ha v lm ha tan tt
Alkyl ete sulfat: LES, R: C12-C14 : R-O-(CH2-CH2-O)nSO32-, n t 2-3
- ha tan gim trong nc lnh (OE ch yu)
Kh nng to bt tt
Sulfat diglycolamid: n nh tt trong dung dch nc

Cc carboxylat
N-acyl aminoacid
V d: Acylsarcosinat
- Kh nng to bt tt
- C c tnh ty ra tt
- Ha tan trong nc cng d dng hn x phng
- Khng hi da v tc
- To cho tc v da cm gic mm mi v mt

Polyoxyetylen carboxylat
- C c tnh ty ra tt
- Kh nng phn tn cc x phng canxi tt
- D x
- Ha tan pH thp
- t to bt hn LES
- C c tnh ca N-acyl aminoacid
- Khi n cao, chng tng hp tt vi cc cationic
b. Cc cht hot ng b mt cationic
- Tc dng lm mm tc sau khi gi
- Hot ng nh cc cht ngng kt (kh nng ty git yu)
- Gy cay nga (tr cc amin este c dy di v cc cht c nhiu nhm OH
gy cay, nga)
c. Cc cht hot ng b mt lng tnh
- Cht thng dng alkylamidobetain
- Kh nng tc ng trc tip mnh (thng c dng trong cc du gi u
tc bc v tc nhum)
- Cc cht lng tnh t c v t lm rt da hn cc cht cationic ng ng
ca chng
- Thng k hp vi cc cht hot ng b mt khc (cht anionic v NI)
lm du gi du nh (du dnh cho tr s sinh)
d. Cc cht hot ng b mt noionic

Cht alkanolamid
- Monoethanolamid gia tng hiu nng to bt v lm n nh cc cng thc
da trn alkylsulfat.

- Diethanolamid (stearylethanolamid) CDEA dietanolamid cu du da c

dng nh cht lm c v to ng nh, oleylethanolamid cng dng lm
mt tc.

Cc dn sut polyetoxy ha
- Ru bo etoxy ha: c tnh ty ra tt (t to bt n=2,3 C trong R; mch C
cng di cng t gy rt da)
- Cc este polyol: Cc ester bo polyetoxy ha thnh phn c bn ca du gi u
dnh cho tr em s sinh (rt du), rt t gy rt da. Rt thch hp vi da v kh
nng to bt tt.

Cc acid amin (hp cht cationic ch yu trong mi trng acid)
- a chc nng: hn nh bt, iu chnh nhn, c tc dng lm mt tc
- C tim nng chng lm rt da
 i vi nh sn xut, ngi ta thng hay dng hai loi cht hot ng b
mt

Cht hot ng b mt chnh: V d: lauryl ete sulfat (LES)

 Khng c hi, ty ra tt, to bt tt, t rt da, khng sc, khng mi,

d mua, gi trung bnh.

Cht ng hot ng b mt.

V d : coco amido propylbetain (CAPB)

- Gia tng bt khi c vt bn
- Gia tng nhn
- Ci thin du (Hiu qu yu), lm gim hin tng kh da.
Trn thc t ngoi hai loi cht trn, trong du gi cn c phi thm mt s
cht hot ng b mt khc p ng yu cu a dng ca ngi tiu dng

Gii thiu thnh phn c trong du gi du:

Sn phm du gi nc hoa X-men Sport

Thnh phn
Ammonium
sulfate

Tnh cht
laurenth CHBM

Ammonium lauryl sulfate CHBM

Thnh phn

Tnh cht

Citric acid

Cht bo qun

Polyquaternium -10

Cht iu ha

Demethicone

CHBM

Trimetyl olpropane

Glycol Distearate

To nh

Polydecence

Thm t

cocamide MEA

n nh bt

Sodium lactate

n nh pH

PEG-45

Dit khun

Chloromethyl isothiazolinone Cht bo qun

Tricaprylate/ Tricaprate

Bo qun

Methyl isothiazolinone

Cht bo qun

Sn phm du gi Oxy perfect shampoo

Thnh phn
Ammonium
sulfate

Tnh cht
laurenth CHBM

Thnh phn

Tnh cht

Zinc PCA

Tr gu

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

CHBM

C12-15Alkyl Benzoate

Demethicone

CHBM

Glyceryl

Gi m

Cocamido propyl betaine

CHBM

Menthol

Lm mt,bo qun

Acrylates copolymer

To
mt

mm Sodium chloride

PEG-45

Dit khun

Zinc Pyrithione

Dit khun

DMDM hydantoin

Bo qun

Cyclopentasiloxane
Cocamide DEA

Cht lm st

Phenyl Trimethicone
CI 42090

To mu

C12-15 Pareth-3
Hydrogenated

n nh bt

Disodium EDTA

Lm
cng

mm

nc

Gii thiu thnh phn c trong sa tm:

Sn phm sa tm X-men Boss

Thnh phn

Tnh cht

Thnh phn

Tnh cht

Sodium laurenth sulfate

CHBM

Acid citric

Cht bo qun

Cocamidopropyl Betain

CHBM

Fragrance

Hng thm

Dimethicone

CHBM

Polyquaternium -10

Cht iu ha

Glycerine

Gi m

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Dit khun

Glycol Distearate

To nh

Methylcloro
isothiazolinone

Cht bo qun

Cocamide DEA

n nh bt

Methyl isothiazolinone

Cht bo qun

Lauryl glucoside

Sn phm sa tm Oxy Deep shower

Thnh phn

Tnh cht

Thnh phn

Tnh cht

Lauric Acid

CHBM

Sodium chloride

Cocamido propyl betaine

CHBM

Carbon Black 0.08%

Than hot tnh

Cocamide DEA

n nh bt

Palmitic Acid

Cht nh ha

KOH

n nh pH

Aerylates copolymer

To mm mt

Glycol Disterate

To nh

I-methol

Lm mt,bo qun

DMDM Hydantoin

Bo qun

Sage extract

VI.

Kho st tnh cht cc cht hot ng b mt chnh c trong sn phm

du gi u cho nam:

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, l mui ca Lauryl
Sulfate, c s dng rng ri lm cht hot ng b mt. Trong m phm v cc
sn phm chm sc c nhn , Sodium Lauryl Sulfate v Ammonium Lauryl
Sulfate c s dng th yu trong du gi,sa tm, nc hoa, ln kh mi v
cng c th tm thy nhng sn phm khc.N c th dng trong nc cng

Ti sao li cn chng trong m phm v cc sn phm chm sc c nhn?
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate v Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate lm sch da v tc vi vic
h tr s kt hp gia nc vi du v cht bn, do cht bn c ty ra ngoi.
Chemical Formula: CH3(CH2)10CH2OSO3NH4

Ammonium lauryl sulfate l mt cht hot ng b mt
anion. Ammonium lauryl sulfat ng vai tr nh mt cht
to bt, v c tnh ty ra. Trong phn t ca chng mt
u c cha mt mch Carbon di, u cn li l mui
ca acid sulfuric v NH3. Mch di c tnh k nc, u
cha mui c tnh a nc, lm cho n c tnh ty ra v
hot ng b mt tt.
Khi ammonium lauryl sulfate phn ng vi ethylene oxide, kt qu to thnh mt
phn t ln hn l ammonium laureth sulfate. Phn t ln ny cng c tnh ty
ra v hdbm tng t, nhng ln hn, v vy n khng thm nhp da v tc d
dng. Thut ng " laureth " tht s l mt s lm gim bt.

Natri lauryl sulphat l mt hp cht tng t v s dng tng t, nhng cc
nhm amoni c thay th bng mt nguyn t natri.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Chemical Formula:

Synonyms

N-(carboxy methyl)-N, N-Dimethyl-3-[(1-Oxococonut) amino]-1-Propanaminium

Hydroxide, Inner Salt, Coco betaine

Description
Pale yellow transparent liquid

Uses
Cocamidopropyl Betaine l mt cht ty ra lng tnh, m l mt cht ty ra c th
hot ng nh mt axit hoc bazo. N khng gy kch ng da hay mng nhy.
N c dng lm c nhng du gi u, v gim bt s kch thch do cc
cht ty ra khc nh hng.
N c nhng hiu ng khng sinh, v c s dng trong nhng sn phm v sinh c
nhn.
N c nhng thuc tnh chng s tnh in, v vy n c vai tr iu ho trong nhng
du gi u.

Dimethicone

Dimethicone v Methicone l silicone dng polyme. S khc bit duy nht gia
hai polyme l cc n v lp li ca Dimethicone cha hai nhm methyl, trong khi
cc n v lp li ca Methicone c cha mt nhm methyl.
Trong m phm v cc sn phm chm sc c nhn Dimethicone v cc thnh phn
lin quan c s dng trong xy dng nhiu loi m phm v cc sn phm chm
sc c nhn bao gm cc loi kem m phm v kem, x bng tm, du gi v cc sn
phm chm sc tc. Cc thnh phn c s dng rng ri nht trong nhm ny l
Dimethicone.

Silicones c s dng nh emollients (lm mm da), v nh cht lng d bay
hi m lm cho lp ph cm thy mn, nhng m khng bay hi li mt b
nhn.

Chemical Formula:
Dimethicone

Cetyl dimethicone

Synonyms
Polydimethylsiloxane
(PDMS), Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cetyl
dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Silicone oil
Cyclopentasiloxane l mt nht thp, d bay hi c s dng nh cht mang. N
bi trn, thuc xt tc v ngn khng b dnh chm vo. N bc hi hon ton,
khng c d lng.
Dimethicone l tn gi khc polydimethylsiloxane v c s dng to mt cm
gic mm mt cho mi tc hay da sn phm. N cng c s dng nh mt
emulsifier cho nh "nc-trong-du".

Cocamide DEA
Cocamide DEA, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide DEA v Oleamide DEA l cht lng
nht hoc cc cht rn sp. Thnh phn cu to l cc axit bo dn xut ca
diethanolamine (DEA). Trong m phm v cc sn phm chm sc c nhn, cc thnh
phn c s dng trong cng thc du gi, thuc nhum tc, cc sn phm tm, v
kem.

Mc ch s dng trong m phm:

Cocamide DEA, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide DEA, DEA Oleamide c khuynh

hng tng kh nng to bt v n nh bt. Chng cng c s dng lm c
nc ca m phm v cc sn phm chm sc c nhn.

Scientific facts:
Cocamide DEA, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide DEA v Oleamide DEA c sn
xut t ngun gc t nhin axit bo. Cocamide DEA c ngun gc t cc axit bo ca
du da, Lauramide DEA c ngun gc t axit lauric, Linoleamide DEA c ngun
gc t acid linoleic, v Oleamide DEA c ngun gc t acid oleic

Chemical Formula:

Cocamide DEA

Synonyms
Coconut
fatty
acid
Coconut
fatty
acid
Coconut
fatty
acid
Ethanol, 2,2'-iminobis-, N-coco alkyl derivitives

monoethanolamide,
diethanolamide,
triethanolamide,

Description
Lm t cc axit bo trong du da, phn ng vi diethanolamine, hoc n phn ca
n hoc tri phn ethanolamine.

Diethanolamine

Polyethylene glycol

Chemical Formula:

Synonyms

PEG-n
PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-12, PEG-40, PEG-150, etc.

Description
Polyethylene glycol l mt chui polyme di gm nhiu n v ethylene glycol ghp li.
S lng ghi sau tn cho bit trng lng gn ng phn t ca chui (con s cao hn c
ngha l chui di hn).

Uses
PEG c s dng nh mt cht lm c trong nhiu sn phm. N c s dng trong
kem nh rng ngn chn vi khun bng cch kim sot s tch t cao rng.
PEGs thng phn ng vi cc axt bo lm cho cht ty ra c bt dy ln v n nh
hn. Khi c s kt hp ha hc ca acid bo t du da, n hnh thnh cht ty ra nh
PEG-5 cocamide, c dng trong du gi u nh l mt cht hoat ng b mt, to
nh, v n nh bt.

Laury glucoside

Chemical Formula:

Lauryl diglucoside

Synonyms
Lauryl diglucoside

Description
Lauryl glocoside l mt cht hot ng b mt v ty ra c to ra t du da (
phn cha lauryl) v ng ( phn c gc glucose). Chng ng vai tr lm mm
da v c th lm vic trong mi trng nc cng.

Uses
N c s dng trong du gi vi vai tr l cht ty ra v lm c dung dch.

Sodium stearate


Chemical Formula: CH3(CH2)16COONa)

Synonyms
Soap

Description
Natri stearat l mt trong nhng hp cht chnh trong x bng thng.
lm x phng, bn bt u vi m b. Nu x l cht bo tht b vi hi nc s
thu c m bo, mt hn hp ca cht bo, mt trong s l Glyceryl tristearate.
Mt tri-Glyxerit cha ba phn t axit Stearic gn lin vi mt phn t glycerine.
Khi un Glyceryl tristearate trong kim, s thu c sodium stearate v glycerine.
Khi loi b glycerine,ta thu c x phng.
Gc Na ca phn t s thu ht cc phn t nc. Cn chui hydrocarbon s thu ht
cc loi du v cht bo.

Uses
X phng lm vic bng cch gip ph v cht bo v git du thnh ming nh. Cc
mnh c bc bng x phng, vi cc chui hydrocarbon gn lin vi cc cht bo.
Cc loi du by gi s hon ton c bao quanh bi nc, thay v c gn vo da
hoc qun o, v do , chng c ty i

Glycerine

Chemical Formula:

Glycerine c s dng lm cht gi m ( lm mm da) trong x phng

tm.

VII.

nh hng ca CHBM n con ngi v mi trng:

1. nh hng ca CHBM:

- S tc ng qua li gia nhng phn t hot ng b mt v nhng cu trc sinh

hc nh protein, enzym, mng t bo.
- Protein to thnh nhng phc hp hp thu cationic v anionic. Nhng phc hp
ny gy ra s thoi ha protein s bin i v bin th c bn.
- Vic nut nhng cht hot ng b mt tng i khng nng v chng c
bin th rt nhanh: Cc anionic v NI bin th rt nhanh v cc cationic th chm hn.
Khng c s lng ng dn li trong c th.
- Nhng tc ng trn mt, nhy cm hn da, nhng thng thng mt vn
quan trng ch c th xy ra khi mt b phi nhim lu vi mt nng cao cht hot
ng b mt khng c theo di, v cn ra ngay mt bng nhiu nc lnh
- Mun gim tc ng m tnh ca cc anionic trn da nh lm kh, kch thch da,
ngi ta c th thm nhng cht hot ng b mt lng tnh v nhng zwitterionic trong
nhng thuc git dng lng. Cc hp cht ny mang in tch dng phi hp d dng
vi nhng anionic v nh vy ngn cn s hp thu cc cht ny trn da
- Nhng hp cht ca nitrosamin v nitrosamit khc nhau v tnh n nh ha hc
v c ch c tnh.

2. Nhng cht c tim nng c

Cho ngi: cc cht ny l nhng tp cht trong cc nguyn liu, hoc nhng
hp cht c th cho ra cc cht c bng phn ng ha hc
V d:

* 1,4 dioxane: to nn khi ethoxyl ha cn bo thc hin trong mi trng axit,

nhit rt cao
N hin din trong nhng ethersulfat (LES) dng trong nc ra chn hoc du gi.
N c th b nghi ng l tim nng gy bnh ung th
* Oxit etylen t do hin din trong cc ru bo etoxy ha (NI) l c. Thc t
nguy c l khng c nu trong s tiu chun ha ru bn etoxy ha, ngi ta rt nghim
ngc trong vic xc nh hm lng ti a ca oxit etylen t do.
* Cc nitrosamin rt n nh v ch tr thnh cht c khi xy ra phn ng enzym
. VD: NDELA (Nitroso Di Etanol Amin) c tim nng gy ung th hm lng nhng tp
cht c th i vo phn ng vi cc amin ph sinh ra.
* Cc nitrosmit khi thy phn l nhng ngun pht sinh khi u c tnh

Cho mi trng: c th l LAS v NPE .

3. c tnh ca cht hot ng b mt anionic v non-ionic
Toxicity

Surfactant

LD50 fish (mg/l)

LD50 Daphnia (mg/l)

LAS

3 - 10

8.9 14

NPE

1.5 11

4 50

VIII.

Sn phm dnh cho nam:

1. Yu t v da:

Ngi ta cn c vo s khc nhau c bn gia cu trc da ca nam v n to ra

sn phm chm sc ph hp. Trong khi cu trc da nam v n tng i ging nhau, th
vn c mt s khc bit. c hiu qu tt trong vic chm sc da cn phi xt n cc
yu t ny. Sau y l mt s khc bit quan trng:

Da ca nam dy hn, cng rn v c n hi
Do trong da nam c cha nhiu collagen va elastin hn da n, cc m lin kt
cung cp cho da cng v n hi.

Da ca nam c l chn long ln hn da n
L chn long ln c nhiu kh nng gy tc vi bi v du. V l do ny, sn phm
ca nam cn c tc ng su lm se l chn lng v loi b cc yu t c kh nng
gy mn.


Da ca nam nhn hn da n
Du nhn do da nam tit ra ln n 20%, v n vn tip tc tit ra cho n ht
cuc i ca mt ngi n ng. Da ca nam vn tit ra du cho n tui 40-50,
trong khi la tui ny, lng du tit ra t da n gim i rt nhiu.

S khc nhau i vi s lo ha da gia nam v n:
Mt ngi n ng c li th trong s lo ha da: da h dy v nhiu du hn na.
iu ny c ngha h chu t tc ng ca s nhn v mt tnh n hi ca da. Do
, da nam thng lo ha chm hn ca n. Khong t 40-50 tui, collagen ca
da nam mi gim ng k v np nhn mi xut hin su hn.

Tc ng ca vic co ru:
Ru trn da mt nam gii c th rt dy v cng, to mt vng cng trn da mt.
Vic co ru hang ngy c th li ln da nhy cm ca nam gii s mt nc,
b kch thch do tip xc v thc y ru pht trin mnh hn na.
Do yu t da nam nh trn nn trong cc sn phm chm sc c nhn nh du gi
u, sa tm,.. cc cht hot ng b mt vi hot tnh mnh c s dng c th loi
b, ty ra tt v tc ng su hn. Thm vo , yu t nhn dnh v tit ra nhiu m
hi do c tnh ca ni tit t trong nam l mi trng cc vi khun gy mi pht
trin, vic thm vo cc thnh phn c kh nng dit khun tt nh PEG l iu cn thit.
Da u nam d b gu hn, do ZnPTO c tc dng tr gu c s dng rng
ri trong cc du gi hin nay
Kem co ru c vai tr to bt lm mm ru, do vic co ru s trnh c yu
t kch thch, s rt da sau khi co.
2. Yu t mi:
Cm quan v sn phm l yu t tc ng n s thnh cng ca sn phm. Mi
thng hiu m phm c hnh thnh bng mt mi hng ring c trng. i vi sn
phm cho nam, yu t mi c ch trng lm sao tot ln c v nam tnh v hng
thm c trng ring. Hng thm trong cc sn phm chm sc c nhn nam thng
mnh m hn, c trng hn. Yu t mi l mt b mt trong cc sn phm v ch c
nu ln s si trong cng thc thnh phn di dng tn chung l Fragance.
TI LIU THAM KHO
1.Hng liu v m phm- Vng Ngc Chnh- Nh xut bn i hc QG
TPHCM-2008.
2.Cc sn phm chm sc v ty ra- Louis H Tn Ti
3.Applied Surfactant-Tharwat F. Tadros
4. Handbook of Cosmetic science anh technology-Marc Paye- Marcel Dekker,
Inc.
5. www.cosmeticinfo.org

6. www.sci-toys.com
7. www.google.com.vn