STARBURST BERET: FREE PATTERN AND VIDEO

TUTORIAL
If you follow me on Facebook or Instagram, you have no doubt seen the new stitch pattern and
yarn I have been working with. Ill be completely honest, this is my favorite pattern and I believe it
has the potential to my my big design of the year. The idea was inspired from the Jasmine stitch,
a unique star stitch hybrid that can be modified with many different stitches to create the starburst
pattern. For my crochet beret pattern, I have used double crochet clusters to create the stunnning
starburst pattern. Lets have a close-up look of this gorgeous stitch

When I first began this pattern, the complexity of the starburst pattern made my head hurt but I
was determined to come up with an easy way to memorize the starburst pattern. It took a little
practice, but I believe I have come up with a way to make this pattern user friendly. I have labeled
this pattern experienced however, with my video tutorial I believe intermediate level (and just
maybe a determined advanced beginner) can successfully create this gorgeous beret.
Lets talk about yarn for a minute. The gorgeous yarn you see in the images here inspired me to
release this pattern as a St. Patricks day design. It is a brand called Manos del Uruguay and I
cant even explain how lovely it is to work with. The yarn itself is called Maxima and the colorway
shown is called seedling. I purchased my skein at a local yarn store, but you can also purchase it

online from various different retailers. If you can get your hands on some, I highly recommend
using it for this pattern. However, if you are allergic to wool or are unable to purchase Manos, the
pattern is versatile enough for other worsted weight yarns.

STARBURST BERET

Crochet Pattern by B. Hooked Crochet, Copyright 2015.

Please do not copy, sell or redistribute this pattern without first obtaining my
permission. Items produced using this pattern may be sold, however please do not
use the photo above.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms

GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES

1 skein Manos del Uruguay Maxima or approximately 160 yards worsted

weight yarn

5 mm Crochet hook

Darning Needle

Scissors

GAUGE AND SIZING

Each individual starburst measures just shy of 1.5 across. From one center to the adjacent
measures 1.
When laying flat, the beret measures approximately 10 across (diameter) at the largest point.
The stretchy ribbed band allows this hat to fit an individual with a head circumference as small as
21 and as large as 23. The sizing of this hat is more suited for a teen or adult.

ABBREVIATIONS

Bpdc Back Post Double Crochet

Ch Chain

Cl Cluster *See Pattern Notes*

Dc Double Crochet

Fpdc Front Post Double Crochet

Fpdc2Tog Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together

Sc Single Crochet

Scdec Single Crochet Decrease

Slst Slip Stitch

Sts Stitches

RevSc Reverse Single Crochet

YO Yarn Over

PATTERN NOTES
*Cl (cluster stitch) YO and insert hook into designated stitch, YO and draw up a loop. YO
and pull through 2 (two loops on hook). YO, insert hook into the same stitch, YO and draw up a
loop. YO and pull through 2 (three loops on hook). YO, insert hook into the same stitch, YO and
draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 (four loops on hook). YO and pull through all four loops.
Chain one to finish the stitch.
You may substitute any worsted weight yarn for this pattern. In the video tutorial, I am
demonstrating with Caron Simply Soft, Pistachio and it works up beautifully.
This crochet beret pattern is worked in the round starting with the starburst pattern. Please refer
to the video tutorial for the best description of how to work this portion of the pattern. You may
also refer to the diagram below which depicts the pattern to round 2. The pattern you see for
round 2 is the also the pattern repeat for rounds 3 and 4.

This pattern recommends that you begin working in the round using the alternate magic ring
method but you may also use the magic ring if you are comfortable doing so. For a more detailed
demonstration on how to start using the alternate magic ring method. For a more detailed
demonstration on how to start using the magic ring.
Once you have completed the starburst pattern, its smooth sailing from there. Dont give up if
your starburst pattern doesnt look perfect at first. It took me quite a bit of practice to get my
gauge just right. That brings up our next point, gauge. Your gauge will determine the overall size
of the beret. If your gauge is smaller than mine, your hat will be smaller than the measurements
listed above. Similarly, if your gauge is bigger than mine, your hat will be larger than the
measurements listed.

DIAGRAM

HOW TO CROCHET THE STARBURST BERET

VIDEO TUTORIAL
This video is also available in a left handed version. Click here to be directed to the
left handed tutorial on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=260&v=-hQUOFGqkts

WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS

Round 1: Chain 3 and join with a slst to the first chain to form a ring. Ch 3 and create a Cl
stitch. *Ch 3 and create a Cl in the chain one from the previous cluster, (do not chain 1 to finish
the cluster, hold all loops on your hook). Create a Cl in the center of the ring and finish both
clusters by chaining 1. Repeat from * 4 more times. You should have 6 clusters coming from the
center of the ring. Join with a slst to the chain 1 from the first Cl.
Rounds 2-4: Ch 3 and create a Cl stitch. *Ch 3 and create a Cl in the chain one from the
previous cluster, (do not chain 1 to finish the cl, hold all loops on your hook). Create a Cl in the
center of same starburst and finish both clusters by chaining 1. Ch 3 and create a Cl in the chain
one from the previous cluster, (do not chain 1 to finish the cl, hold all loops on your hook). Create
a Cl in the center of the same starburst (do not chain 1 to finish the cl, hold all loops on your
hook) and create a cl in the center of the next starburst and finish all 3 clusters by chaining 1.

Round 5: Ch 1 and Sc once around each ch 3, each cl stitch and each starburst center. Join
with a slst to the chain 1. (135 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1 (counts as stitch) and Sc into the next 6 stitches. ScDec over the next 2 sts. *Sc
in the next 7 sts and ScDec over the next two. Join with a slst to the chain 1. (120 sts)
Round 7: Ch 3. Dc once into every stitch and join with a slst to the third chain. (120 sts)
Round 8: Ch 2. Fpdc around first stitch, Bpdc around second stitch. *Fpdc around the next
stitch and Bpdc around the next stitch. Repeat from * around and join with a slst to the second
chain. (120 sts)
Round 9: Ch 2. Fpdc2Tog (the first post, skip the bpdc and the next fpdc). Bpdc into the next
bpdc. *Fpdc2Tog (the next post, skip the bpdc and the next fpdc. Bpdc into the next bpdc. Repeat
from * and join with a slst to the second chain. (60 sts)
Rounds 10-15: Ch 2. Fpdc around first stitch, Bpdc around second stitch. *Fpdc around the
next stitch and Bpdc around the next stitch. Repeat from * around and join with a slst to the
second chain. (60 sts)
Round 16: Ch 1. Sc once into every stitch and join with a slst to the chain 1. (60 sts)
Round 17: Ch 1. Rev Sc once into every stitch and join with a slst to the chain 1. (60 sts)
Bind off and weave in your ends.

BLOCKING

I highly recommend blocking your hat over a dinner plate once you are finished crocheting. Not
only will it make the rounded edge lay much nicer, but it will also correct minor (small) gauging
issues. Here is an example of what my hat looked like before blocking:

and here is an example of what the same hat looked like after blocking:

Its quite obvious that blocking is necessary for this pattern! Once you have stretched your hat
over a plate, make sure that it is centered by looking at the pattern on the front. Saturate the hat
with tap water and allow 24 hours to dry.