Foreign Service

Servicing Toyotas VVT-i components isnt the most difficult job

youll ever tackle, but it does require attention to several simple
details. Failure to do so can result in some expensive consequences.

Dan
Marinucci

Photos: Dan Marinucci

dmarinucci@motor.com

discussed operation and testing of Toyotas VVT-i system in my last two

columns. VVT-i, which stands for Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence, is
Toyotas most basic computer-controlled
intake valve timing system. Here, Ill
show you some service and installation tips that
could save you considerable time and aggravation
later on.
First, lets revisit the VVT-i controller assembly,
which is bolted onto the front of the intake
camshaft. If its convenient to do so, refer back to
my photograph of a VVT-i controller cutaway on
page 12 of the April 2010 issue of MOTOR. Basically, the controller is constructed like a vane-style
oil pump inside an automatic transmission or
those used in power steering systems. Applying
engine oil pressure to the appropriate part of the

This white notch at the rear of the controller assembly latches onto
the indexing pin on the front flange of the intake camshaft. When you
cant easily catch the pin with this notch, you can bet that the lock pin
inside the controller assembly is engaged or extended. Meanwhile,
you can try rotating the center of the controller by carefully fitting a
needle-nose pliers into the opposing slots or notches, as shown here.
With very little effort, you ought to be able to rotate this part with the
pliers. If it doesnt budge, then the lock pin is engaged.

controller advances, retards or maintains intake

valve timing.
Last month, I emphasized using a practical
process of elimination to isolate the rest of the
VVT-i setup from its most costly component, the
controller. When VVT-i trouble codes occur, eliminate everything else first; replace a controller
only as a last resort. However, some enterprising
technicians have asked me about servicing a controllerspecifically, opening it up and cleaning it.
On the one hand, you never say never to some
techs because theyll try to make a shortcut work
if it makes sense to them. Maybe a tech out there
has rejuvenated a VVT-i controller by disassembling it and carefully cleaning it. However, peek
once more at the controller cutaway I showed you
in the April column. My instincts tell me that by
the time this component fails, its really beyond
cleaning, polishing, deburring, etc.
Furthermore, you get a good idea of how anxious Toyotas engineers were to allow someone to
service a controller assembly by looking at the
bolts on the front of it. They have special, fivesided bolt heads.
Second, lets review that critical controller part
called the lock pin; refer back to page 14 of Aprils
column for a good view of it. When the engine is
off, a spring pushes this pin outward, effectively
locking together the two main parts of the controllerthe controller housing and its vane assembly. This keeps the intake valve timing retarded for easier starts and prevents a potential knocking noise during start-up. When the engine starts
up, normal oil pressure unlocks the two parts of
the controller assembly by disengaging the lock
pin; oil pressure simply pushes the pin backward.
Be careful, because an engaged lock pin causes trouble during VVT-i controller installation.
You see, theres a notch or groove machined into
the rear of the controller assembly. Meanwhile,
theres a locating or indexing pin pressed into the
front flange of the intake camshaft. The notch
on the back of the controller should fit neatly onto the camshafts locating pin. From what Ive
seen, you cant align the notch in the controller
continued on page 16

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July 2010

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Circle #11

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July 2010

with the index pin on the camshaft

when the lock pin is engaged. If youre
not aware of this detail, you can have a
devil of a time trying to install a VVT-i
controller on the cam.
One unlucky tech I know had to replace a VVT-i controller assembly to fix
a DTC P1349. He was unlucky because
the lock pin in a brand-new controllerright out of the boxwas engaged. No, thats not common, but
nonetheless he fought with it before he
found out that he had to disengage the
lock pin. For your information, I shot
this months photos on an engine in a
vocational school. I painted the locating
notch on the back of the controller
white. Look closely at the white notch
and you may see the imprints of the
camshafts locating pin next to this
notch. Apparently, an uninformed student tried to torque a misaligned controller onto the camshaft.
Meanwhile, suppose youre trying to
install a VVT-i controller assembly and
it wont slip into place easily on the
camshaft locating pin. Dont try forcing
it. Instead, place the controller face
down on the workbench. Identify the
two opposing notches shown in the accompanying photographs. Then carefully engage these notches with the tips
of a pair of needle-nose pliers (see photo on page 10). Next, very gently rotate
the center of the controller assembly
clockwise and counterclockwise a little
bit. If the center of the controller rotates freely in each direction, you know
the lock pin is disengaged. But if you
cant rotate that center piece the slightest amount, then the controller is
lockedthe lock pin is engaged.
When a VVT-i controller is locked up,
you can unlock it by using air pressure to
disengage the lock pin. A shop manual
should show you the correct port to
which you apply approximately 20 psi of
air pressure. The red pointer shown in
the photo on this page shows the proper
port on the controller from, for example,
a Corolla or ECHO engine. Be sure you
use a rubber-tip air nozzle and hold the
nozzle firmly against the port. You must
seal that air nozzle tip against the port as
tightly as practically possible. Apply and
hold the air pressure, then turn the center or interior part of the controller

The red pointer indicates the port to

which you apply air to disengage the
VVT-i on a popular Toyota Corolla or
ECHO engine. The awkward location
of the hole makes it important to
use a rubber-tip blow gun and have
lots of patience for this task.

counterclockwise. Be patient because it

may take several tries to disengage that
pin with air pressure. After all, air doesnt move that lock pin nearly as effectively as oil pressure does.
Suppose youve unlocked the lock pin
and turned the center of the controller
ounterclockwise with pliers or your fingers. Now carefully slip the controller
assembly onto the front of the intake
cam, pushing it gently against the cam
and turning it slightly until you feel the
notch catch the cams indexing pin.
Make double sure that its completely
flush against the camshaft flange. Then
install the big controller retaining bolt
and torque it to spec while holding the
camshaft steady. If you torque that retaining bolt with the lock pin engaged,
you run the risk of bending or damaging
the pin.
Continue holding the camshaft steady
after youve torque the retaining bolt.
Then turn the controller assembly clockwise until you hear and feel the lock pin
engage again. On some controllers,
theres a dot on the face of the controller
housing and another one on the piece
inside the center of the controller. When
these dots are aligned, the lock pin is
supposed to be engaged. Once the lock
pin is engaged again, proceed with installing the timing chain, etc.
Meantime, take care, keep smiling
and well look for you right here next
month.