WineSpectator.

com

TRUDIE
& STING

MAKING WINE
IN ITALY
OUR GUIDE TO
PROSECCO: THE
WINES, THE REGION
NEW WORLD VALUES,
FRENCH WINE STYLE
THE BOUNTY OF
PIEDMONT: 750+
NEW RELEASES
WOLFGANG PUCKS
PERFECT MATCH

CONTENTS

April 30, 2016 Vol. 41, No. 1

I think in some ways its a pejorative: celebrity wine. Because there is so much of it.
We havent been here for generations. But we are serious. We are committed.STING

COVER STORY
44

Tuscan Harmony Drawn to the beauty of the Tuscan

landscape, music legend Sting and his wife, Trudie Styler,

purchased the Il Palagio wine estate in 1997 and set about
revitalizing the 900-acre property. Despite challenges in the
vineyards and in the marketplace, the producer is now starting
to find its rhythm, pushing past the clichs of celebrity wine
i>iV>`>URobert Camuto

78Barolo, Barbaresco and more

Features
TA S T I N G R E P O R T S

71 Parsing Prosecco Gaining in quality and cachet, this

>>>}i>iiLiiiUAlison Napjus
78

Italian Powerhouse On the heels of Piedmonts classic

2010 vintage, the warm 2011 offers more approachable

iLLUBruce Sanderson
T R AV E L

58 Sparkling Wine Country A tour of the Prosecco region

vviv>viVi>`iVi`iURobert Camuto
WINE

French Connection 100 enticing New World values

i`LLiV>iViUKeith Newton

89

PEOPLE

99 Risk and Reward After nearly two decades in Napa,

i>iivv
i>iv}>iUAaron Romano
107 Under the Volcano California vintner Michael Thomas

i>iiv*iUBen ODonnell

LEFT: SANDRO MICHAHELLES; RIGHT: GEORGE BARBERIS

44Sting and Stylers Il Palagio

28A perfect match from Puck

58Touring Proseccoland

17South African vineyard peril

TOP LEFT: ANDREW PURCELL; BOTTOM LEFT: JUSTIN SULLIVAN; BOTTOM RIGHT: JESSAMYN HARRIS

Grapevine

99Jeff Ames of Rudius

Departments

15

Business Two big distributors merge in major deal

This Issue Marvin R. Shanken

17

News South African vintners battle wildfires

12

Feedback

18

Things We Like i>>iUOwen Dugan

39

James Laube The new best

21

Travel A Duero wine country hotel renovates for 2016

40 Matt Kramer The meaning of minerality

24

Cheese *>}>,i}}>UDavid Gibbons

42

27

Chocolate ,VV`iUOwen Dugan

144 FAQ Wine mysticism

28

Perfect Match ,>Vv>L->UHilary Sims

James Molesworth The clarity of blind tasting

30 Events Top 10 charity wine auctions of 2015

USamantha Falewe
33

Wine Auctions Global bidding drops slightly in 2015

UPeter D. Meltzer
36 Savvy Shopper Douro reds, fresh whites and Old World
iiiUAlison Napjus

Cover photograph by Sandro Michahelles

Styling: Ludovica Nanni; Hair: Alain Pichon; Makeup: Luciano Squeo

The Buying Guide

115 Buying Guide Contents
117 Spectator Selections
118 About the Buying Guide
120 New Wines From Around the World

TO P - S C O R I N G W I N E S T H I S I S S U E

Blandys Bual
Madeira 1966
97 POINTS, $300

137Reviews of wines from Spain

Giacomo Conterno Barolo

Monfortino Riserva 2008
97 POINTS, $675

Visit www.winespectator.com/043016 to find links to all of

the following resources.

Free resources for all our WineSpectator

.com readers:

WINE AND FOOD MATCHMAKING In our 8 & $20 series,

we show you how eight ingredients, pantry staples and an
under-$20 bottle of wine can come together for a restaurantquality meal. Get two new easy, tasty recipes each month.

2015 Bordeaux barrels, online

DRINKING OUT LOUD Thought-provoking Web-exclusive essays

from the irreverent Matt Kramer, longtime Wine Spectator columnist. Dont miss the lively discussions! (Only members may post
comments, but all visitors may read them.)
WINE SPECTATOR VIDEO Watch all our great wine tips, winemaker interviews and tastings on your desktop, laptop, tablet or
phone. Tune in each week for a new mobile-friendly video. Here
are some recent additions:

Cork vs. ScrewcapWhy Domaine Laroche Went Back to
Cork: Ten years ago, Laroche decided to bottle its entire range of
Chablis under screwcaps to keep the wines fresh and prevent
taint. So why switch back? Get the key factors from winemaker
Grgory Viennois as he chats with Bruce Sanderson.

Quick TipWhy I Love Clones: Many wine lovers eyes glaze
over when winemakers start talking about grape clones (but

most winemakers love the subject). Why do clones matter?

Get the answer from Luisa Ponzi of Willamette Valleys Ponzi
Vineyards.

Exclusive information for members of

WineSpectator.com:
RATINGS FLASH! Keep on top of new releases from your favorite
regions. Our e-mail alert will let you know when weve added reviews to our Wine Ratings database from your selected regions.
Just enter your e-mail address and preferenceswell do the rest!
Sign up at newsletters.winespectator.com.
2015 BORDEAUX BARREL TASTINGS After several challenging
harvests, Frances famed wine region had a beautiful growing season. Will 2015 be a classic vintage? Which wines will be worth buying as futures? James Molesworth visits the region in late March to
taste barrel samples of the young wines. Look for his blog posts for
highlights from top chteaus. Plus, get his scores and notes for
hundreds of reds, dry whites and sweet wines.

INTRODUCING OUR XVALUES APP!

Wine lovers want great quality, but also value. To meet that need, Wine Spectator has launched its latest
tool: the new, free Xvalues app, highlighting extreme valueshigh quality, widely available wines at
affordable prices. This convenient, easy-to-use app for iPhones and iPads features a regularly updated
library of Wine Spectators latest reviews in several categories: top values for $12 or less, reds for $20 or
less, whites for $20 or less and sparklers for $40 or less, plus seasonal and holiday picks. Before your next
shopping trip, download Xvalues from the App Store!

TOP: LOOK DIE BILDAGENTUR DER FOTOGRAFEN GMBH / ALAMY; MIDDLE: MICK ROCK/CEPHAS

SPRING ENTERTAINING Celebrate the warm weather of

spring with a fresh new recipe from one of our favorite
chefs, paired with our editors picks of highly rated wines.

THIS ISSUE

Sting and Trudie

ine Spectator is about wine, not

celebrities. But occasionally we
put celebrities on our cover
when they are wine people.
Of course, many celebrities
drink and collect wine, and a surprisingly large number
of them become involved in the business. Athletes, actors and musicians especially seem attuned to wine.
In many cases, however, the star whose name is on
the label has no involvement with whats actually inside the bottle. Tom is a fan of the Grateful Dead and
keeps a souvenir bottle of Grateful Dead Steal Your
Face, a California red blend, in his cellar. But he
knows that while the bottling was inspired by the
bands music, the musicians themselves simply licensed out the bands name and had nothing to do
with the wines creation.
Happily, legendary British rocker Sting and his
wife, actress and film director Trudie Styler, who appear on our cover this issue, have a much deeper connection to their wine label.
While living and recording in Italy in the 1990s, the couple
fell in love with Tuscany, and in 1997 they bought a sizable property, called Il Palagio, to establish a home base there. There were
vineyards on the land, and they decided to make some wine.
Their first vintage reviewed by Wine Spectator was the 2007
Sister Moon (named for one of Stings songs). A Sangiovesebased blend, it scored 93 points on our 100-point scale, and subsequent vintages have also earned high ratings. Il Palagio now
produces approximately 4,200 cases of estate wine annually, with
a comparable output by a ngoce arm.
Sting and Trudie have not had an easy road at Il Palagio, but
they have worked hard to make something special. Contributing
editor Robert Camuto spent several days with the couple in Tuscany, and his story gives you an inside look at their life there.
What began as a diversion has become a passion, and just as
Sting and Trudie have transformed Il Palagio, so their engagement with vines and wines has transformed them. They are
international celebrities. But more important for us, and our
readers, they are true citizens of the world of wine.

DAVID YELLEN

taly is our focus this issue, and we continue the theme with
coverage of Piedmont and Prosecco.
Prosecco has become a worldwide phenomenon. But is it
just a fad? Senior editor Alison Napjus explains what makes this
sparkling wine special and points you to the top bottles.
The vineyards that produce Prosecco are located not far from
Venice, in picturesque countryside that makes a delightful travel

destination. We offer a wine lovers guide to Proseccoland,

with wining and dining recommendations around the region.
Piedmont, to the west of Prosecco, is the source of many of
Italys best wines, especially reds from Barolo and Barbaresco.
Senior editor Bruce Sanderson has reviewed more than 750
wines from the region over the past year. Check out his analysis
and advice, beginning on page 78.
In addition, we deliver great values from New World wine regions, suggestions for delicious cheese and chocolates to try, and a
lamb recipe from chef Wolfgang Puck. We hope you enjoy it all!

Marvin R. Shanken
Editor and Publisher

Thomas Matthews
Executive Editor

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A Publication of M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

M ARVIN R. S HANKEN U `>`*Li

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FEEDBACK
LOVE EM AND LEAVE EM
Wine lovers today are inundated with so many wines from around the globe that wine monogamy
grows unrealistic, argues contributing editor Matt Kramer (Cool About Wine? online, Dec. 1, 2015).
In the face of sheer abundance, have todays enophiles traded emotional commitment for a more forensic approach to wine? Readers respond to what Kramer calls the contemporary wine paradox.

Great article, but I think

youve oversimplified for the
sake of controversy. Many
enthusiasts start with an inclination that sparks interest
and turns into obsession; we
tend to get deeper before we
go broader. Some of us dont
venture broadly, and some
love the idea of infinite variety of vintages, varietals,
makers, etc. I disagree with
the idea that there is a then
and a now in which then
is characterized by people being deeply attached and the
now people are emotionally
detached. Choice has allowed wine lovers to move
fluidly across the wine spectrum, sampling the diversity
and availability we are lucky
to experience now. I am emotionally attached to a wide
set of wines based on profound experiences, visits to

special sites and a general enthusiasm for learning.

Stuart Grostern
London

Praise for Pruett

to all of this, Pruett is a generous and humble person.

Bob Powell
Geneva, Ill.

We Are the Champions

(FAQ, Dec. 31, 2015 - Jan.
15, 2016) rightly honored
some sports heroes who did
well in wine. One who was
omitted, though, is Scott
Pruett. This American racecar driver achieved numerous championships in
SCCA, IMSA, 24 hours of
Daytona, Rolex Sports Car
Series and Indy Car. He and
his wife own Pruett Vineyards in Northern California;
in 2012, their Lucky Lauren
Red earned 93 points from
your magazine. In addition

The statistics say Im playing

the fieldI have wine from
16 countries in my cellar. I
do have some emotional attachment to Burgundy; I
went there with high expectations, and they were exceeded. For me, these wines
elevate above mere objective
ratings, and the best are close
to a spiritual experience. I
believe its possible to be on
both sides of this question
when I am shopping for
value, I have no geographic
loyalty, but I am still more
prone to get silly with a Burgundy purchase than any
other region.
Douglas Clover
Fairfax, Va.

Remembering
Serio Borgogno
I am saddened to report to
the wine community that
Serio Borgogno, patriarch of
the Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo wine family,
died on Jan. 24, at the age of
88 years, at his home in Italys Piedmont region.
I first met this exceptional
individual over 25 years ago.
His personality was as robust

12

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Why go on a second date

when theres a pool of (hopefully) better candidates a
click away? I agree that there
is pleasure that comes with
knowing something in-depth,
but wineries need to create
the basis for long-term relationships. Otherwise theres
just too much excitement
about the possibilities of the
next click.
Michael Brill
San Francisco
This is an interesting observation about commitment. I
was emotionally committed
to Bordeaux for several decades. By the 1990s I was trying more from California and
Australia, but in the early
2000s I started into Burgundy
and by 2007 was heavily invested. For me, Burgundy is
the endgame, not because it

and outgoing as the wine we

shared, and his love for the
labor, family and friends, and
all that makes living special
was his gift to all who knew
him. His passion for life
made the wine taste better,
and the many stories he told
of the Langhe are still expressed today in the bottle.
He is survived by his wife,
daughters, sons-in-law and
grandchildren, who will secure the future of the vineyards and cantina for the
next generation.
Tedd Goldfinger
Tucson, Ariz.

is better than any other wine

but because there is an emotional connection to the aromatics and the elegance of
mature Burgundy that I
havent found elsewhere.
Sometimes people just dabble, and sometimes it takes
awhile to find ones true love.
Tone Kelly
Rochester, N.Y.
You are not wrong in your
perception. The field has gotten way too big for an average guy like me to keep up,
especially financially. What I
see happening with me and
among my wine-loving
friends is that we dont pick
one here and one there from
all over the world but tend to
find an area we like and stick
to it. The somewhat negative
effect of this is that I dont
follow news from all the
wine-producing areas as
closely as I used to. I sometimes wonder what I am
missing, but I just cant afford
to find out.
Rick Jones
Mesquite, Texas

Correction
In Willamette Valleys Strong
Hand (Jan. 31 - Feb. 29), Jackson Family Wines purchased
Solna Estates Yamhill-Carlton
vineyard, winery and tasting
room; founders Laurent and
Danielle Montalieu retained the
Solna label.

Questions and Comments

If you have a comment on a story or
a question about wine, we would like
to hear from you. Please keep your
letters brief and be sure to include
your name, address and telephone
number (not for publication). We
reserve the right to edit letters for
clarity. Write to us at Letters, Wine
Spectator, 825 Eighth Ave., 33rd
Floor, New York, NY 10019; send a
fax to (212) 684-5424; or e-mail us
at letters@winespectator.com.

GRAPEVINE
WINE

FOOD

PEOPLE

COL L ECT I NG

Big Gets Bigger in Wholesaler Merger

JOSH RITCHIE

ust two weeks into 2016, the wine

industry witnessed what might be
the biggest deal of the year. On Jan.
11, Southern Wine & Spirits and
Glazers, Inc. agreed to merge, creating the largest distributor in the United
States. But what does that mean for the average consumer?
Distributors are the invisible hand of the
wine industry, responsible for getting wine
to retailers and restaurants and helping wineries navigate the thicket of regulations in
each state. Ideally theyre also a marketing
and sales force for the wineries. The past
two decades have brought a wave of consolidation at the wholesaler level.
Southern was already the No. 1 wholesaler in the country, with $11.8 billion in
sales revenue in 2015. Glazers was the counSouthern Glazers Wine and Spirits executives (from left): Wayne Chaplin, president and CEO of Southern; Harvey
trys fourth-largest distributor with $3.7 bilChaplin, chairman of Southern; Bennett Glazer, chairman of Glazers; and Sheldon Stein, president and CEO of Glazers
lion. Combined, Southern Glazers will distribute more than 150 million cases of wine and spirits annually, serving
But smaller wineries are worried. If youre a small winery with Southmore than 350,000 restaurants and retailers. Then theres market share. ern, you didnt get much attention before this deal and now youll probThe company will operate in 41 states, with nearly a 30 percent share ably get less, said the founder of one small California winery.
of the U.S. spirits and wine market in dollar terms. As Southern GlazOne option for small wineries is direct shipping. Another is a growing
ers CEO Wayne Chaplin told Shanken News Daily, a sister publication wave of small wholesalers. As the big companies get bigger, it creates
of Wine Spectator, they want to create a national distributor and change more opportunities on the smaller scale, said John Ragan, director of
the paradigm at the second tier.
Wine and Restaurant Operations for Union Square Hospitality Group.
Chaplin says the benefit of the deal is efficiency. For large wineries, We currently work with over 100 distributors for wine and spirits.
the deal simplifies logistics. Recently, suppliers of our size have had
Selection continues to be what sets wine apart from other beverages.
to put a lot of resources into reaching retailers and restaurants because We find that spirits customers are extremely brand-loyal, but we find our
distributors cannot reach them on that big a scale, said Sandra wine customers like to try a lot of different wines and explore, said Charles
LeDrew, Treasury Wine Estates president for the Americas. Treasury Bailes, CEO of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits, owner of 140 Florida stores.
sold 12.8 million cases in the U.S. last year, with brands such as
Fluctuations in price are another source of contention. Smaller retailBeringer, Lindemans and Penfolds. But [Southern Glazers] can reach ers worry that consolidation means less competition. Youre getting
across multiple markets.
pretty close to a monopoly here, said the owner of one successful retail
Will that mean less variety on wine store shelves? It depends on whom shop in the Northeast. Prices are going to go up.
you ask. Executives at larger wineries and major retailers dont believe
But most sources we spoke to dont see that happening any time soon.
so. There are so many different suppliers in the wine, spirits and beer LeDrew points out that for a larger wine company like Treasury, workbusiness, and they all have unique needs, said the CEO of one midsize ing with the same distributor in 41 states means more efficiency and less
company that owns a dozen wineries. Southern is evolving, and even expense. Dont expect prices to go down, however. Industry sources exthough they are getting bigger, they continue to focus on more special- pect any savings to go toward expanded marketing efforts.
ization to better serve their suppliers.
Consolidation has transformed many industries, and small players often lose in the process. But a change can mean new opportunities. Wine
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
customers will inevitably seek out qualitytheyre a demanding bunch.
Keep up with breaking news as well as the people, places and happenings that
Mitch Frank
wine lovers are talking about at www.winespectator.com/newsandfeatures.

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N E W S
Wine Spectator Releases
Free App for Values
Wine lovers want great quality, but they also
want value. To meet that need, Wine Spectator
has launched its latest tool: Xvalues, a free,
easy-to-use wine app highlighting extreme values, now available for download.
Our goal is to make Xvalues the go-to app
for wine consumers of varying ages and levels
of wine expertise, said Jessica Shanken, vice
president of business development at M. Shanken Communications, which publishes Wine
Spectator. Through Xvalues, were excited to
educate and enlighten new generations of wine
lovers and help them please their dates, friends
and family. The app is easy to use for anyone
Firefighters rush to try to contain the fire on Simonsberg.

and everyone.

Wildfires Scorch South African Vines

Xvalues features a regularly updated library

of Wine Spectators latest reviews of highly
rated, widely available wines, and highlights five

inemakers in South Africas Stellenbosch district are assessing

damage after a raging wildfire enveloped large parts of Simonsberg mountain on Jan. 20, burning vineyards
at some of South Africas most prestigious
wineries. Its by far the worst and the longest
fire Ive ever fought on the Simonsberg, said
Victor Sperling, owner of Delheim.
Damage assessments were still coming in at
press time, in February, but confirmed vineyard
losses include 24 acres at Kanonkop, 12 acres
at Rustenberg and 10 acres at Thelema Mountain Vineyards. Grapes in other parcels may
have been affected by smoke taint. All of that
means a smaller crop in a year when yields were
already low because of a severe drought.
Weve got 52 acres of vineyards that we
cant use this year, said Gyles Webb, owner of
Thelema. The fire just came whizzing down
at such speed. It was really frightening how fast
it was.

Murray Barlow from Rustenberg said he is

unlikely to make some of his top wines this
year. We are fairly certain that the Peter Barlow Cabernet vineyard and the Five Soldiers
Chardonnay block have been badly affected
by smoke, although we will wait and see. Thats
in addition to a beautiful Cabernet vineyard
that was totally destroyed. Barlow estimates
that production shortages could stretch over
the next three to five years.
There are suspicions that the fire was caused
by arson. With the South African rand currently plummeting in value, such devastation
could be too much to bear for some of these
farmers. But they remain fairly upbeat, lauding
the dedication shown by the community in
helping fight the fires. Youd look up and there
would be a winemaker from the other side of
Stellenbosch on his tractor, which hes brought
over, fighting the fire with us side by side, said
Sperling.
Cathy Marston

categories: top values ($12 or less); reds ($20 or

less); whites ($20 or less); sparklers ($40 or
less); and picks for upcoming seasons or holidays. It also includes helpful tools such as images of wine labels, sortable categories to
simplify the library, and a
personalized favorites list.
Xvalues joins the popular WineRatings+ in Wine
Spectators family of
mobile apps. Available
for iPhone and iPad,
Xvalues is free to
download and
use and offers
quick access to
hundreds of
wine reviews.
Look for it in the
App Store.

Pontet-Canet Owners Buy Robin Williams Napa Valley Wine Estate

he Tesseron family, owners of Bordeauxs Chteau Pontet-Canet and Tesseron Cognac,

are purchasing Villa Sorriso, a lavish Napa Valley estate previously owned by comedian

Robin Williams, who died in 2014. The property has sold grapes for some time to Napa winTOP: JUSTIN SULLIVAN; BOTTOM: COURTESY TESSERON FAMILY

eries, but the Tesserons plan to begin making their own wine there.
There is a great vineyard planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc,
said Alfred Tesseron.
Williams purchased the property in 1994 and put it on the market in 2012. The Tesserons
have agreed to pay $18.1 million, according to one media report. Tesseron would not confirm
that figure.
The 653-acre property, located on Mount Veeder, includes a 20,000-square-foot residence
and 18.4 acres of vines. The grapes are currently being sold to wineries such as Robert Craig
and Rombauer. Tesseron says they have no immediate plans to plant additional acres.
Emma Balter, with reporting by James Molesworth

The Villa Sorriso estate on Napas Mount Veeder.

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T H I N G S

W E

L I K E

The Olive Is Back

BY OWEN DUGAN

here are lots of parallels between wine and olive oil. Both have
one harvest per year; the best offerings are single-origin, vintagedated bottlings; tasting them is similar, from nosing and judging
body and flavor on the palate to aerating and assessing length.
They even grow in many of the same places.

A stark reminder of their similarities came in 2014, when many of

the European olive-growing regions were hit hard by bad weather. Italy
suffered perhaps the worst. Yields were abysmal. Prices went up and buyers had to look elsewhere. New sources are now bottling very fine oils;
we recommend a couple below. But Italy is back too: The two examples
featured here are bookends of the Tuscan style.

CAPEZZANA CONTE CONTINI

BONACCORSI BIOLOGICO 2015
www.olio2go.com; 500ml, $38
Carmignano is a small region north of Florence thats been

producing wine and olives since Roman times. The Bonaccorsi family arrived in the 15th century. Today their descendants run the property, with a winery, oil production, a
cooking school, tasting room and accommodations.
They weathered the disastrous 2014 by taking the extreme move of not opening their mill, opting to have no oil
rather than possibly lesser oil in minuscule quantities.
Theyre back with a 2015 that is a beauty: textbook Tuscan
deep green leads to a light pepper- and asparagus-tinged
nose. Its friendly and balanced but still robust, with a great,
slightly edgy grassy flavor. The finish is long and savory,
showing a mushroom character.

MENTIS ESTATE
www.mentisestate.com; 500ml, $13.95
The olive originally comes from the eastern Mediterranean,

ROCCA DELLE MACIE

TWO HANDS 2015 GODS COUNTRY MCLAREN VALE

Contact enoteca@roccadellemacie.com; three 500ml bottles, $80 (includes shipping)

Chianti winery Rocca delle Macie is a baby by local standards, having been established

www.twohandswines.com; 500ml, $32.50 (includes shipping)

Michael Twelftrees first vintage of Two Hands Shiraz, grown in Barossa, South Austra-

in 1973. When founder Italo Zingarelli bought it, there were just 5 acres of grapes on the
property. Today they have more than 500 acres of vines and 80 of olive trees. The next
generation is running the show and a third is in the wings. Like some select wineries in
Tuscany, Rocca delle Macie offers accommodations, including a borgo, or restored town,
art events, wine tastings and sales, and a restaurant. It also made no oil in 2014.
Its oil is what people expect from a Tuscan: brilliant green with a peppery and herbaceous aroma. One sip and you get that powerful Tuscan pepper kick. The finish is big and
long, with continuing grass and fruit notes. Use this to punch up your aglio e olio.

lia, was 2000. Today he has multiple bottlings and another winery, Twelftree, which
focuses on single-vineyard Grenache.
Heres proof positive that good olive oil doesnt only come from the Mediterranean.
Perfect olive-growing climates abound, especially in California, South America and
Australia. What was to some degree a novelty 15 years ago has been replaced by real
quality. Twelftrees small production has a buttery golden color and a light, piquant
aroma of hay. Its rich and very agreeable, more floral than fruity, with a light, lingering

18

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kick along the finish. Though not especially complex, it is perfectly balanced.

GEORGE BARBERIS

and there is evidence that olive oil was being made there
8,000 years ago. And yet today bottles from Italy and Spain
dominate the U.S. market. This is as much because of their
popular cuisines as it is because Greece, for example, sells
a lot of its oil as bulk, some of it even to be blended into oils
from higher-profile countries.
This is changing. Younger generations of Greeks are discovering that they are capable of producing quality oil and
modernizing to ensure it gets to market in perfect shape.
Anastassios Mentis, grandson of the founder of this Greek
producer, which dates to 1930, is bottling an estate oil after
decades of his family selling bulk. Its made from olives called
Atheniola; in mythology, Athena gave olives from this region (Laconia, formerly known as Sparta) to the city of Athens. They yield a golden, butter-colored oil with a light breezy
aroma, almost sweet. Theres a slight prickle on the palate
and a subtle aroma of artichoke. This is a really friendly, lowacid, rich and creamy oil.

T R A V E L
MAKING PRIVATE LABELS
IN TUSCANY
Website www.baglionihotels.com/cala-delporto-punta -ala-florence-tuscany
While Tuscanys Maremma wine region may
not have the historic wineries and wellgroomed landscape of neighboring Chiantishire, it does have its own rustic beauty,
and wine quality there is rapidly improving.
From April through October, Maremmas
seaside Baglioni Hotel Cala del Porto offers a
package that draws visitors into wine country.
Guests can create about 300 bottles of their
own barrel blend at the Rocca di Frassinello
vineyard; winemaker Alessandro Cellai, who
also oversees Castellare di Castellina in Chianti, will help guests select from Sangiovese,

The former abbey housing this luxury hotel dates to the 12th century.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes

Abada Retuerta LeDomaine Expands

Website www.ledomaine.es

grown at the Rocca estate. Afterward, hotel

patrons can enjoy a suite with a panoramic
vista, an ocean-view terrace dinner and a private beach gazebo.

our years ago, eminent Duero winery Abada Retuerta opened its LeDomaine hotel in a 12thcentury abbey surrounded by vineyards. For the 2016 season, the hotel has introduced eight
new rooms and added amenities. Now topping out at 30 rooms and served by a major spa and
three restaurants, LeDomaine offers an indulgent level of service. Butlers contact guests before
arrival and are always available via a loaned mobile phone. The spa has a sommelier who runs samplings of aromas and wines to customize guests experiences. The food at the beautiful restaurant in
the former refectory is overseen by Andoni Luis Aduriz of Spains Michelin two-star Mugaritz. Other
dining venues include the more casual Jardn del Claustro and the wine cellar, or even butler service
under a tree in the vineyards. Winery tours are available, as are vineyard tours by horse, four-wheeldrive vehicle or helicopter. Or you could switch it up and take a falconry class. Rates begin at $480.
Owen Dugan

The custom wines can be aged up to two

years before being shipped to your home. The
package for two is $46,900.
Samantha Falewe

TOPPERS AT THE WAUWINET

GRAND AWARD

Website www.wauwinet.com/dining/toppers-tidbits

Grand Awardwinning Toppers restaurant is nestled in the Wauwinet, a 19th-century inn on the eastern
coast of Nantucket. Soon after Toppers opens for the spring season, on April 21, chef Kyle Zachary and
cellar master Craig Hanna will host the Nantucket Wine Festival with two wine dinners, featuring Billecart-Salmon Champagne ($275 per person) and a range of Peter Michael wines ($250). Zacharys

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PANCHO R. EGUIAGARAY; MARCO BECK PECCOZ; CHARLIE GESSELL

menus will highlight local seafood and spring specialties such as fiddlehead ferns, mushrooms and pine
nuts. The festival occupies Nantucket for five days and offers more than 50 events. Prices range from
$50 to $2,975.

S.F.

Modern accommodations and a Mediterranean view

PASSPORT TO DRY CREEK VALLEY

Website www.drycreekvalley.org/events/passport-to-dry-creek-valley
Dry Creek Valley is a pastoral 16-mile-long AVA in northern Sonoma. On Saturday, April
APRIL
2224

23, and Sunday, April 24, more than 45 wineries will open their doors and vineyards to
Passport holders. Standard tickets ($135 for two days) get you exclusive tours, library
tastings and access to food and entertainment. Winemakers and growers lead guests

into the vineyards, cellars and tasting rooms, but if you want to drink wine, eat well and listen to
music, you can do that too. On Friday, April 22, Prelude tickets get you lunch ($76) or dinner ($155)
prepared by local chefs at participating wineries, including Sbragia and Pedroncelli. Dry Creeks
character is down to earth, so expect casual, warm and fun visits. The winery list will offer special
Dry Creek Valley has an open house with food, music and wine.

appeal to Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon lovers.

O.D.

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21

C H E E S E

BY DAVID GIBBONS

ew man-made sights are

more awe-inspiring than the
great cathedrals, palaces and
art masterpieces of Italy. The
same must be said of a full wheel
of genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Burnished with age, convex,
broad and stout, it weighs 80
pounds or more and is adorned
with elegant stamps and lettering
marking it as one of the worlds
oldest and most coveted culinary
brands. No wonder they call it the
King of Cheeses.
The best Parmigiano-Reggianos
feature a flaky-yet-moist consistency; toothsome, melt-in-your
mouth textures; and long-lasting,
eye-opening flavors. They deliver
a big, balanced, complex mouthful,
inevitably rounding to a seemingly
endless savory, meaty finish.
An oft-heard refrain is that Parmigianos recipe hasnt changed for
more than 800 years. Historians
have deduced that the Benedictine
and Cistercian monks of the Po
Valley made it during the Middle Ages. Renowned for their farm-totable prowess, they certainly had the wherewithal to raise substantial
herds and make cheese in large copper vatsas is still done. But the
story goes back much further: There are references to caseum paramensis
in Roman writings, wherein gastronomic place-names first appeared.
During the Renaissance, it was called Parmesano in Italy and Parmesan in France and England.
Today, the patrimony of Italys most famous cheeseofficially Parmigiano-Reggiano in modern Italianis guaranteed and protected by
a powerful consortium that supervises its roughly 350 producers in the
Emilia-Romagna region. Its production regulations are memorialized in
one of the strictest European Protected Designations of Origin (PDO).
At 12 months, every wheel undergoes the famous hammer test: An
inspector called a battitore (drummer) taps it with a small metal mallet
to detect defects. Up to 10 percent of wheels are rejected, the rest graded.
The top two grades are fire-branded with the official oval stamp and
deemed ready for further aging. After six more months, a producer, or
stagionatore (ager), may request its highest-rated cheeses be evaluated
again; the best are marked Extra and thereby qualify for export. Of
the roughly 3.3 million wheels made each year, 34 percent are exported,
and, in turn, 17 percent of those go to the United States.
Starting at about 18 months, crystals of denatured tyrosine (cheese
protein) are often visible as white pockets within the straw-colored
paste. They provide a delightful crunch and some bitter notes to balance the sweet and the salty. Fine export Parmigianos are sold at around
24 months. Beyond that, they become harder, saltier and mustier, and
those bitter notes continue to emerge.
The spectrum of Parmigianos contains some significant distinctions.

24

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Savvy marketers tout the nuances

of production values and terroir:
You may hear that cheeses from
the hills around Reggio and Parma
have an edge over those from
Modena. Or that Parmas cheeses
have more butterfat than Reggios,
meaning their crunchies will
take longer to develop. Some firms
certify their cheeses as organic or
choose to exceed minimum standards for feed.
Each branded wheel displays its
producers registration number
and production date. Age and seasonality are both important. Some
purveyors take pains to avoid summer cheeseswhen the milk has
lower protein contentinstead
focusing on fall and spring ones,
which they find better balanced.
Breed is also a factor: Though
most modern-day Parmigiano is
made from the milk of the familiar black-and-white Holstein Friesian cows, there are intriguing
throwbacksnamely, those made
exclusively from the milk of the
traditional local vacche rosse (red
cows) and from the bruna Alpina
WHERE TO GET IT
(brown Swiss).
Of the dozen top Parmigianos I
MurraysCheese.com:
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sampled, the Solo di Bruna was an
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early standout. Its texture was
softer than others but nevertheless
iGourmet.com:
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toothsome; it was balanced and
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full-flavored, with meatiness,
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some caramel notes and an amazWhole Foods:
ingly long, though not biting, fin?fdYi\
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ish. Next, a two-year-old from
Bonati offered a bright, fruity note
before settling into another typically long finish. Also exceptional were
the 24-month Cravero and the Vacche Rosse, a subcategory with its
own consortium. Both were benchmarks of a somewhat sweeter profile;
the former had some tempering musty and bittersweet notes along with
hints of a pleasant yeasty, whiskeylike flavor.
My top picks were the organics. The Santa Rita Co-ops was smooth
and demure, with light acid and hints of fruitiness. It evolved into a
classic, savory profile, with some caramel, almost chocolaty, flavors
along the way. The Hombre was every bit the Santa Ritas equal, its flavors full, well-rounded and persistent. Both of these cheeses spoke clearly
of how a real Parm should taste.
The bottom line: Parmigiano-Reggiano is magnificent, highly accessible and versatile. Any authentic, top-grade 24-month-old version is
worth a try. So order a few good ones and see what they bring to your
palate. You wont be disappointed.
Dave Gibbons is co-author of Mastering Cheese.

GIAN RUSCONI/AGE FOTOSTOCK

Big Parma: The King of Italy

C H O C O L A T E

London Calling
BY OWEN DUGAN

RIGHT: GEORGE BARBERIS

hantal Coady launched a quiet revolution when she opened Rococo Chocolates on the Kings Road in London in 1983. The
shop was friendly and warm, and the chocolates had fun, bright
packaging. That might not sound revolutionary today, but at the
time it was. Coady had been working at Harrods, which was gratifying
because the chocolate was good, but she says of London chocolate stores
then, They didnt make the
customer comfortable.
There was a cultural obstacle too: There was this
Anglo-Saxon embarrassment at pleasure or indulgence. If people saw a friend
at a chocolate shop, they
were embarrassed, like they
were at a sex shop.
She wanted to forge an
emotional connection with
Rococo founder Chantal Coady
customers. And change was
in the air: I was coming from an anarchist-punk period, and
it was happening all around me. I wanted to be different.
Her upbringing fed both tradition and reinvention. She was
born in Iranher father was a doctor of tropical medicine
and lived in several tropical countries. But her family always
had a London base, and she moved there after attending boarding school in the country from age 9. So she has deep traditional memoriesCadburys milk I always loved, and the bars
with strawberry cream were greatbut also more exposure
than most to the aromas and flavors of the Spice Route.
The store opened with an emphasis on quality rather than
innovative flavors: We had some chocolate from France, a
lot of Easter eggs, and fondant creams. I wasnt going to sell
them, but customers demanded them. Theyre still a top seller.
She continued to learn, and after discovering Valrhona,
she staged with the company in France, learning to make
truffles, among other things. It was a revelation, she recalls.
It wasnt that difficult, and it was very delicious and fresh.
She also founded, with Alan and Nicola Porter, the Chocolate Society, which aimed to educate people about the difference between industrial and artisanal chocolate.
Around 1990, Coady started flavoring bars in London, both
traditional flavors like ginger and orange and new ones like black peppernothing too wild at first. Herbs and spices were not often mixed
with chocolate at the time, and for Coady the inspiration was discovery: [With] a lot of them we were just playing around, but historically
chocolate had been used in savory foods.
Some combinations referenced parts of her life. The cardamom [in
a white chocolate bar] and Persian lime [with basil in a dark bar] are
flavors of my childhood. Others came from specific moments. I was
walking on the beach in Cornwall eating a chocolate ice cream and had
salt from the ocean on my lips. I thought, Thats great. From this her
sea salt bar was born.
The buying public required some hand-holding. It was a bit of a
shock. Wed say, Just taste this, and theyd struggle to identify it. Then
youd tell them, and theyd say, Of course.

Her travel to farmsand time as a beekeeperfirmed up her fervent

pro-organic position. You go to [places where cacao is grown] and see
these people using chemicals all the time and dying of cancer. No one
should use those. What goes on crops and [into] farmers is important.
Freshness is key too, a principle informed by big boxes of chocolate
given to Coady in tropical hospitals, the contents of which were inedible from poor handling. Because for a long time preserving quality in
shipping was too difficult, she has only recently started exporting to the

United States (www.juliesbeet.com; bar prices range from $4 for 0.7

ounces to $10 for 2.7 ounces).
My buying advice is simple: Get what appeals to you knowing that
itll probably be the best version youll have, and try something unusual,
because those never fail to be at least thought-provoking, and usually
more. Oh, and buy the eggs ($12.50 for 4.76 ounces). Trust me on this
one; theres a reason customers demanded she sell them year-round.
As for what to drink with chocolate, Coady says, Wine is hard work;
[chocolate and wine] fight with each other. Sweet and fortified tend to
work, but rum and whiskey are brillianta no-brainer. Just be sure to
add water to cut the high alcohol.
For a serious tasting, serve white teaits very soft and refreshes the
palate, she says. But if you want it to be jolly, serve alcohol.
Owen Dugan is features editor of Wine Spectator.

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27

P E R F E C T

M A T C H

Rack of Lamb With Syrah

HOW TO MAKE RACK OF LAMB WITH

EGGPLANT PUREE AND HARISSA AIOLI
68 Japanese eggplants
14 cup garlic cloves, whole and unpeeled
(about 10 cloves)
14 cup plus 5 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
olive oil
12 medium yellow onion, diced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
34 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon plus 14 teaspoon cumin seeds,
toasted and ground

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RECOMMENDED WINES
CHEFS PICK: Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley In The Rocks In The Rocks Vineyard 2012
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Red Blend Columbia Valley
2012 (90, $18); Delas St.-Joseph Ste.-pine 2013 (94, $70)
18 teaspoon crushed cayenne pepper flakes
12 cup harissa paste

1 cup mayonnaise
14 cup Greek yogurt
1 12 teaspoons sugar
12 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon fresh mint, finely chopped, plus
more for garnish
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, finely chopped
2 112-pound racks of lamb, frenched
2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped
Black pepper
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Serves 6 to 8.

RIGHT: ANDREW PURCELL; FOOD STYLIST: CARRIE PURCELL

hen he
opened
Spago in
Los Angeles in 1982, Wolfgang Puck wanted to
shake up the fine-dining scene, whose for- WOLFGANG PUCK
mality struck him as SPAGO
fussy. I said, forget BEVERLY HILLS
about thatthe only
serious thing should be the food, he says.
Pucks idea of serious foodloosened up locavore cooking drawing on diverse culturesis
known today as California cuisine, and the
now-iconic Spago has held a Wine Spectator
Grand Award since 2010.
Now everybody talks about farm to table,
farm to table, Puck remarks. You know, I grew
up on a farm, so to me that was totally normal.
For me, luxury was a canned pineapple.
Pucks early training included a stint at the
Michelin three-star LOustau de Baumanire
in Provence, an experience he describes as
transcendent. The restaurant specialized in
lamb dishes, which were often served with
Chteauneuf-du-Pape.
At Spago, Puck reached back to his time in
Provence for inspiration. What was our main
thing at Spago when we opened up? Lamb,
Puck declares. Every day we roasted the legs,
the rack, the saddle, or made lamb sausage for
the pizza with the shoulder and the neck.
For this springtime recipe, Puck and chef de
cuisine Tetsu Yahagi chose a Middle Eastern
style grilled rack of lamb with smoky eggplant
puree and spicy harissa sauce, garnished with
fresh mint leaves.
Puck pairs the bold-flavored dish with Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley In The Rocks
In The Rocks Vineyard 2012, from Washington; it reminds him of the Chteauneufs he
admired at Le Baumanire. You get this black
pepper, earthy stone flavor, Puck notes. I
think it marries very well with lamb.
Hilary Sims

E V E N T S

Charity Wine Auctions: 2015 in Review

Established events with luxury packages and large-format bottles get top billing
BY SAMANTHA
FALEWE

op-earning charity auctions saw moderate success

in 2015, remaining significantly stronger than in
2013 but falling slightly below
2014s live-bid totals. In 2014, the
highest-ranking auction brought
in more than $12 million in liveauction bids, while last years
chart-topper earned just more
than $11 million.
The Naples Winter Wine Festival and Auction Napa Valley have
traded the top two spots since
Wine Spectator began compiling a
Top 10 ranking, in 2001. In 2015,
the Naples festival once again
overtook the 2014 leader, Auction
Napa Valley. The ranking is based
on total live auctionbid earnings
excluding paddle-raise or funda-need lots.
Despite the rivalry, Naples Children & Education CEO Maria
Jimenez-Lara says the relationship
between the organizations remains
friendly. She credited this years
success in part to the events firstever use of online mobile bidding,
which she said opened up the excitement to a wider community not
present at the actual auction.
The Culinary Evening With the
California Winemasters auction in
Burbank, Calif., also found success
with silent mobile bidding, but at

a cost. We have pictures from 2014

versus 2015, said Barbara Balik,
director of the partner beneficiary,
the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. In
the earlier year you can clearly see
bidders talking and interacting with
each other, and in 2015 they were
completely absorbed in their
phones [with the online bidding
process], not interacting as much.

2015s highest bid for a live-auction

lot: $2.4 million for a two-week
wine-centric getaway to Paris and
San Francisco with premium accommodations including privatejet service and a two-night stay at
Auberge du Soleil. The V Foundation Wine Celebration in Oakland,
Calif., raised $180,000 for a lot that
featured dinner and cocktails with

The Classic Wines Auction in Portland, Ore., raised $1.6 million for charity in 2015.

She added that in 2016, the auction will employ a combination of

mobile bidding and in-house-only
bidding sheets.
In the past five years, auction
organizers have shifted the emphasis to lots featuring wine-focused
activities, in comparison to bottleonly packages. Of the top 10 charity auctions in 2015, eight reported
a luxury travel experience among
their top lots.
Auction Napa Valley recorded

Huey Lewis and the News, who performed at Wine Spectators 2015
New York Wine Experience.
Aside from luxury packages,
large-format bottles brought in
many top bids in 2015, such as the
$500,000 paid at Auction Napa
Valley for a one-of-a-kind balthazar (12 liters) of 2012 Screaming
Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon.
At the Rusty Staub Foundations
24th annual wine auction, the
highest-earning lots included a

jeroboam (4.5 liters) of 2013 LigerBelair La Romane ($34,000) and

a methuselah (6 liters) of 2013 Frdric Mugnier Musigny ($32,000).
The event raised a total of
$750,000 for the foundations
Emergency Food Pantry.
At the Destin Charity Wine
Auction in Florida, which raises
money for 14 local childrens
charities, large-format bottles
helped boost earnings to new records. The top wine-only lot was
a collection of 39 autographed
magnums, which sold for $45,000.
We were thrilled with the results of our auction, said John
Russell, president of the auction
foundation. This was the first
time we exceeded $2 million in
live revenue.
Although the majority of top
charity auctions are based in the
South or on the West Coast, 2015
was a boom year for the Motor
City. Detroits International Wine
Auction, which supports the College for Creative Studies, raised
$722,000 in live bids, while a donated Corvette C06, sold at an
off-site auction, raised an additional $500,000.
Other organizations focus on
childrens health and education,
cancer research, the arts, and in
the case of the Houston Livestock
Show and Rodeos wine auction,
Rodeo Uncorked!, youth agriculture scholarships.

TOP 10 U.S. CHARITY WINE AUCTIONS OF 2015

EVENT

BENEFICIARIES

LOCATION

LIVE BIDS*

Naples Winter Wine Festival

Auction Napa Valley
Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction
Southwest Food & Wine Festival
V Foundation Wine Celebration
Destin Charity Wine Auction
Rodeo Uncorked! Champion
Wine Auction & Dinner
Classic Wines Auction
Rusty Staub Foundation
Wine Auction Dinner
High Museum Atlanta Wine Auction

Naples Children & Education Foundation

Local health and childrens organizations
Various in Sonoma County
Gosilano Childrens Hospital of Southwest Florida and others
V Foundation for Cancer Research
Childrens charities in northwest Florida
Houston educational and agricultural programs

Naples, Fla.
St. Helena, Calif.
Kenwood, Calif.
Miromar Lakes, Fla.
Oakville, Calif.
Miramar Beach, Fla.
Houston

$11,100,000
$11,060,000
$2,441,500
$2,200,000
$2,128,950
$2,017,417
$1,796,000

Childrens and family charities

Rusty Staub Emergency Food Pantry

Portland, Ore.
New York

High Museum of Art

Atlanta
TOTAL

$1,613,115
$1,363,600

*Each year, Wine Spectator tracks the results of charity wine auctions in the United States. These auctions have multiple revenue streams, from ticket sales, corporate sponsorships, and silent
and live auctions. For the purpose of comparison, the auctions are ranked by their self-reported live auction totals.

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JOHN VALLS

$1,172,592
$36,893,174

W I N E

A U C T I O N S

Global Wine Auctions Fall 1 Percent in 2015

A big drop in London and a slide in Hong Kong were buttressed by a 27 percent gain in New York
PETER D. MELTZER
espite some turbulence
in local markets, the
global wine-auction
scene remained stable
in 2015, falling a modest 1 percent
in value from $348 million in 2014
to $346 million.
The U.S. market was the main
driver, as sales in New York gained
27 percent in value over 2014. Despite high lot prices, volume and
overall sales, value declined in
Hong Kong and dipped 14 percent
in London and Geneva, according
to figures supplied by the major
commercial auction houses.
Jamie Ritchie, CEO of Sothebys
Wine, affirmed that in total numbers, 2014 and 2015 were broadly
similar. This year there was a
transfer of volume and value from
Hong Kong to New York, Ritchie
said. In 2015, Sothebys sold a total of $60.4 million worth of wine,
just 8 percent less than in 2015.
The Hong Kong market dropped
4 percent to $98.4 million as the
average price per lot, $5,935 in
2014, fell 5 percent to $5,584.
(All figures are given in U.S. dollars.) In London, fewer blockbuster consignments led to prices
falling 15 percent.
In contrast, the New York market showed considerable strength,
gaining 27 percent in revenue to
reach $109 million. Significant
revenues included the two-part
sale at Sothebys New York of veteran collector Don Stotts wines,
which realized $13.5 million. Adding Chicago and other markets,
there was $165 million worth of
fine wine on the U.S. auction
block in 2015. The average price
per lot rose 3 percent to $2,951 in
2015 from $2,887 in 2014.
Among individual auction
houses, Acker Merrall & Condit
led the pack in worldwide sales,
bringing in $69.9 million, followed
by Sothebys at $60.4 million,
Christies at $57.2 million and
Zachys at $55.5 million. Hart Davis

Hart brought $41.5 million domestically, making it the U.S. sales

leader. Its December auction realized $9.6 millionthe years highest-grossing individual sale.
One noted difference between
the 2014 and 2015 auction seasons
was an increase in pristine singlecellar and ex-chteau consignments. In a market still rattled by
the proliferation of counterfeit
wine, these consignments allayed
concerns about provenance and
sold at a premium.

Direct sales from top wineries

far exceeded their presale estimates. At Sothebys Hong Kong
in January, Chteau MoutonRothschilds auction realized $4.1
million, more than double the presale estimate, with 93 percent of
the lots selling above their high
estimates. One of the sales highlights was a nebuchadnezzar (15
liters) of Mouton 2000, which sold
for $117,788.
Single-cellar consignment sales
remained consistently successful

2015 Auction Sales Totals

2015 SALES
(IN USD MILLIONS)

2014 SALES
PERCENT
(IN USD MILLIONS) CHANGE

NEW YORK
Zachys
Acker Merrall & Condit
Sothebys
Wallys
Christies

$30.88
$30.60
$26.30
$10.85
$10.80

$16.09
$27.11
$15.40
$17.68
$10.18

92%
13%
71%
-39%
7%

$109.43

$86.46

27%

Hart Davis Hart (Chicago)

Heritage (Los Angeles)
Bonhams (San Francisco)
Spectrum (Los Angeles)
Wallys
Zachys (San Francisco)

$41.48
$6.56
$4.54
$2.65

$42.77
$11.57
$4.46
$2.38
$5.57
$4.99

-3%
-43%
2%
11%

TOTAL UNITED STATES

$164.66

$158.20

4%

Sothebys London
Christies London
Bonhams London
Christies Geneva
Bonhams Edinburgh

$14.20
$13.30
$5.00
$3.80
$1.04

$21.10
$16.05
$5.70

-32%
-21%
-12%

TOTAL U.K. & EUROPE

$36.98

$42.85

-14%

Acker Merrall & Condit

Sothebys
Christies
Zachys
Bonhams

$33.57
$19.90
$19.30
$18.29
$7.35

$28.96
$28.80
$24.97
$18.50
$1.24

16%
-31%
-23%
-1%
493%

TOTAL HONG KONG

$98.41

$102.47

-4%

Winebid.com
Zachys
Acker Merrall & Condit
Spectrum
Christies
Wallys
Heritage

$24.20
$6.38
$5.70
$4.35
$2.80
$1.78
$0.62

$24.00
$5.65
$5.68
$3.65
$3.62
$1.50
$0.75

1%
13%
0%
19%

19%
-18%

TOTAL INTERNET ONLY

$45.83

$44.85

2%

$345.88

$348.37

-1%

$61.75
$65.30
$53.00
$45.23

13%
-8%
8%
22%

TOTAL NEW YORK

OTHER U.S.

U.K. & EUROPE

HONG KONG (IN USD)

INTERNET ONLY

TOTAL

MARKET LEADERS WORLDWIDE

Acker Merrall & Condit
Sothebys
Christies
Zachys

$69.87
$60.40
$57.20
$55.50

SOURCE: WINE SPECTATOR

at major auction houses. Acker

Merrall & Condits Hong Kong
and New York auctions of the cellar of renowned importer Martine
Saunier (responsible for introducing celebrated properties like
Henri Jayer and Domaine Leroy to
American connoisseurs) brought
$4 million. In a bidding frenzy, a
Jayer Vosne-Romane Cros Parantoux 1978 magnum soared nearly
200 percent above the high estimate to bring in $83,000.
In May, Sothebys New York sold
a massive consignment from Burgundy lover Stott for $8.4 million,
50 percent above the presale high
estimates. The second installment
of the Stott collection, held in
December, fetched $5.2 million.
In Hong Kong this past September, Zachys offered the final installment of the Graham Lyons
collection, which brought in just
over $4 million.
Last year, several auctioneers
correctly predicted that classified
Bordeaux would enjoy a comeback. In 2015 we had 11 milliondollar brands whose auction sales
exceeded $1 million, said Acker
CEO John Kapon. Basically half
of the top brands were Bordeaux.
Kapon added that Burgundy wines
currently account for almost 46
percent of his total sales, compared
with Bordeaux at 27 percent.
Paul Hart, CEO of Hart Davis
Hart, which conducted a $6.3 million Bordeaux-only sale in October, said the region has long been
the cornerstone of his auctions.
Weve continued to see strong
prices in this category, demonstrating that Bordeaux is on the rise,
he said.
Looking ahead, auction-house
executives predict the market will
be broadly similar, with mature
wines selling strongly and demand
remaining constant. Collectors
and drinkers will continue to place
increased value on condition and
sound provenance, and will be prepared to bid aggressively, said
Ritchie of Sothebys.

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33

S A V V Y

S H O P P E R

DO THE DOURO

KING CABERNET

Portugals Douro River Valley is one of the Old

Worlds most dynamic regions for dry red wines,
marked by steep, hillside vineyards, ample sun
and slate and schist soils. Based on Touriga
Nacional and other local grapes, the wines are
dense and structured, brimming with fruit and
mineral character. This group offers the regions
distinctive flavors at excellent prices.

Cabernet Sauvignon flourishes in a variety of

climates and soil types, which makes finding
an affordable version less daunting than you
imagine. The wines here might come from outside your Cabernet comfort zone, but all offer
appealing expressions of this great grape.

QUINTA DO CRASTO Douro Superior 2013

(90, $30) Savory; plum, dried raspberry, hot
stone, paprika
QUINTA DO PASSADOURO Douro 2013 (90,
$25) Cocoa powder, dark fruit; velvety, refined
POAS JUNIOR Douro Vale de Cavalos 2013
(90, $32) Lithe, powerful; raspberry, currant
QUINTA DO CRASTO Douro 2014 (89, $20)
Black fruit, espresso, mineral; robust
LEMOS & VAN ZELLER Douro Van Zellers
Red 2013 (88, $19) Cherry, damson plum, dark
currant, spice; snappy
QUINTA DO PASSADOURO Douro Passa
2013 (88, $15) Zesty; raspberry, plum, currant
QUINTA DO PORTAL Douro Mural 2013
(88, $11) Lush; red fruit, mineral, herb, spice

AMAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla

Valley 2013 (91, $32) Blueberry, plum, spice
VITIVINCOLA PREZ CRUZ Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Limited Edition 2013 (90,
$25) Dried berry, cherry, herb, chocolate
INAMA Veneto Bradisismo 2012 (90, $30)
Black currant, olive, rosemary, meat; grippy
KLEIN CONSTANTIA Constantia Red 2013
(90, $27) Plum, fig, currant, charcoal, tobacco
VIOS DE ARGANZA Cabernet SauvignonMencia Vio de la Tierra de Castilla y Len
Palacio de Arganza 2012 (89, $10) Plum,
blackberry, licorice, black olive; fresh
VIU MANENT Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Gran Reserva 2013 (89, $14) Rich,
savory; dried berry, cherry tart
FALESCO Cabernet Sauvignon Umbria Tellus
2013 (88, $16) Black currant, garrigue, graphite, olive, smoke

WHITE WEDDING
Winemakers know that sometimes the whole
is greater than the sum of its parts; marrying
two or more local grape varieties often results
in a more distinctive wine. From Chenin Blanc
to Chasselas and Viognier to
Viosinho, these lively whites
blend both well-known and
more obscure grapes, resulting
in an exciting range of flavors
to explore.
MULLINEUX Old Vines Swartland White 2014 (91, $28)
White peach, chamomile,
verbena; elegant
BUIL & GIN Priorat White
Joan Gin 2014 (90, $25)
Juicy; peach, pineapple
JLIO BASTOS Alentejo
White Dona Maria 2014 (89,
$17) Apple, pear, baked peach,
butter, spice; ripe, structured
MARVELOUS Western Cape
White 2013 (89, $15) Alluring;
ginger, almond, peach, apple
CASA DE SANTAR Do White
2014 (88, $16) Almond,
mineral, beeswax; rich
CHTEAU DE LUC Corbires
White Les Jumelles 2014
(88, $16) Bright; spice, lemon
cream, glazed peach, almond
PHILIPPE VIALLET Vin de
Savoie Perle de Savoie 2014
(88, $16) White peach, star
fruit, flowers; fresh

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
94 Sojourn
Pinot Noir Sonoma
Coast Gaps
Crown Vineyard
2014 $59
CALIFORNIA Lightly
aromatic, but rich
and layered, this
offers excellent
density and depth, with fine-grained tannic
grip and a long, persistent finish.

COLLECTIBLE
95 Giuseppe
Mascarello & Figlio
Barolo Monprivato
2011 $150
ITALY This is expressive,
with alluring cherry,
strawberry, floral and
mineral flavors building
to the expansive finish. The elegant profile
belies the serious structure underneath.

SWEET DREAMS
From bright and lightly sweet to rich and unctuous, these distinctive dessert wines are perfect
at the end of a meal. Different grape varieties
and production methods make
for a range of styles and flavors
to explore. Each of these wines
packs serious concentration, so
a little goes a long way here.

MARQUS DE CCERES
Rioja Crianza 2012 (89,
$15) SMART BUY Black
cherry, plum, vanilla,
spice; generous, lively

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SPECTATOR
SELECTIONS

DOMAINE CAUHAP Juranon Symphonie de Novembre

2012 (91, $25/375ml) Luscious;
marmalade, honeysuckle,
hazelnut, white chocolate
JOS MARIA DA FONSECA
Moscatel de Setbal Alambre
2010 (91, $11) Butterscotch,
dried apricot, mango; fresh
CROFT Tawny Port Reserve
NV (90, $20) Rich, juicy; plum,
toffee, herb, spice
MACULAN Veneto Dindarello
2014 (90, $22) Vibrant; mandarin orange, glazed nectarine,
grapefruit granita, spice
MADEIRA WINE COMPANY
Madeira Miles 5 Year Old Rich
NV (90, $23) Rich, aromatic;
butterscotch, persimmon,
citrus, tobacco, mineral
RAMOS-PINTO Late Bottled
Port Unfiltered 2011 (90, $27)
Youthful, juicy; dark chocolate,
plum pudding, spice
Alison Napjus

SMART BUY
93 Bodegas
La Emperatriz
Rioja Finca
La Emperatriz
Crianza 2010 $22
SPAIN Fresh and
focused, this red delivers black cherry,
licorice, black olive, tea and smoke flavors
that mingle harmoniously.

BEST VALUE
87 Ca Furlan
Extra Dry
Prosecco
Cuve Beatrice
NV $10
ITALY Balanced and lightly juicy, this creamy
Prosecco offers textbook notes of white
peach, almond skin and orchard blossom.

IN THIS ISSUES BUYING GUIDE

Youll find 13 classic wines and nearly
400 outstanding wines from among
reviews of more than 600 new releases.
Tasting notes and scores for those
wines, along with nearly 600 additional
wines reviewed since our last issue,
can be found at WineSpectator.com
using the Wine Ratings search,
a members-only service.

JAMES LAUBE

Better Every Year

f youre an old hand at greeting
new vintages, no doubt youve
heard this refrain from a proud
winemaker: This is the best
wine Ive made.
Its usually uttered when they trot
out their latest creation and begin
showing it to prospective buyers. Wine
at the highest levels entails some entertainment or theater, and theres no
harm done pitching a given years efforts. Yet I have a theory about why
and when it occurs that extends beyond the obligatory hype: Vintners
have wines to sell, and considering
theyve got more of this market-ready
juice, it makes sense to proclaim it to
be the best.
The truth is, the current wine might
really be the winemakers best if he or
she is a newbie. Its plausible to accept
that early on in their careers, winemakers improve more than incrementally each year.
Its also credible for a winemaker to
declare victory in a year otherwise
considered a disaster. Some years the
crop is tiny. Other years, wine is brimming beyond cellar capacity. Occasionally a barrel or two will
take on a life of its own and separate from the herd.
Once the wine is finished it evolves into something special.
The days and weeks just before and after bottling are the most
pivotal. Its the time when winemakers become most intimate
with their infant and, like parents with a newborn, they cant
stop peeking into the crib.
Bottling amounts to the transfer of wine from one vessel to
another, which should be as routine as watching a plane take off
or land. But because ones livelihood is at stake, and machinery
is involved, most winemakers insist on watching their wines
metaphorical takeoff and landing closely.
Many describe bottling as the most nerve-racking event of
the year. For some, it creates more anxiety and restless nights
than harvest. Somehow supervising a bottling line as it
cranks out hundreds of bottles gives vintners a sense of control
amid the clanking machinery. Although its one event that

quickly deflates whatever romance

might have been associated with the
vintage at hand.
It turns out that some winemakers
are apprehensive, even superstitious,
about their wines transition from tank
to bottle. Some may be harboring
doubts about the wines quality, though
only occasionally will you hear a winemaker lament that perhaps they should
have skipped that year or blended with
another lot.
Deciding when a wine is ready to be
bottled seems easy. Yet winemakers agonize over the precise moment to give
the green light. Its during this phase
that winemakers intimacy turns to obsession. Theyve tasted tank or barrel
samples for days or weeks on end. The
repeated tasting and retasting of an
about-to-be-bottled wine should eliminate any doubts about the merit of the
finished product. But it doesnt always.
At this point, the wine is examined
as closely as at any stage in its development, and its here that its maker
comes to know it better than the back
of his or her hand.
Once bottled, a similar examination process is repeated. The
wines are tasted and retasted. Winemakers sample the first bottles off the line, and the last. They look for any clue about the
wines future or something they might have overlooked. Bottle
shock is the appropriate term to describe both the vintner and
the awkward transition when a wine is bottled.
Even though the wine is traumatized, winemakers persist in
tasting it. They pour it for guests. They share it at lunch. They
take it to dinners. Introductions to fellow winemakers are made.
And yet, theres more.
Once the wine settles down, vintners like to compare it to
past years. By this time, after countless tastings, they best know
how their young stacks up with its siblings, and what characteristics make it distinctive even within the family tree.
Finally the wine is poured for you. The vintner is as proud as a
parent taking their child to the first day of kindergarten, and is
happy to share that. It is then that the wine becomes the best
ever made, a status it will enjoy until the inventory shrinks.
Then its almost time for a new vintage cycle to begin and to set
the stage for the next years star.
Senior editor James Laube has been with Wine Spectator since 1981.

GREG GORMAN

Once the newly bottled wine

settles in, vintners compare it
to past years. It is then that it
becomes the best ever made.

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
In his blogs, James Laube shares updates from his recent tastings and visits
with winemakers, and discusses hot-button issues in the wine industry. Join
the conversation with other members at www.winespectator.com/laube.

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39

MATT KRAMER

Just Saying Minerality

f you care to trace it, you can

track with reasonable precision
the growing discussion about
the legitimacy of the word
minerality when talking
about wine. Simply put, academic
wine scientists are opposed to its use;
some (but not all) wine writers and
wine lovers see it as not just legitimate
but essential in conveying a particular
sensory experience.
It was, of course, inevitable that
minerality should land in the crosshairs. Because grapevine roots are incapable of extracting mineral elements
from soil (so far as scientific instrumentation can tell), the use of the
word minerality should be eliminated
from the modern wine vocabulary according to academic wine scientists. Or
should it?
For decades, wine science academics
have collectively inveighed against
imprecise wine appreciation terms
such as finesse, elegant and nuanced. Such terminology is vague and
nonobjective, they submit. Instead,
only a more objective, i.e., verifiable,
vocabulary should be employed.
But what, then, are we to say when tasting a thrilling, electric
Chablis which is practically abuzz with, well, minerality? Beautiful acids, you offer. That sure captures the experience, doesnt
it? Try saying that to your honey over dinner and see how much
lustrous dimension it adds to the evenings wine pleasure.
Does the composition of the soilespecially one at the extremesinform the flavor and structure of a wine? Sure it does.
Just taste the stuff. I defy any scientist anywhere to make from,
say, a heavy clay soil, a Chardonnay that tastes like a great
Chablis, a wine which comes from extremely chalky soil. It
cannot be done.
Something is going on between soil and plant and wine. Just
what, I cannot say. But it provably exists, at least by the senses.
My colleague Harvey Steiman recently reported on a new
Spanish study which employed two panels, one of winemakers
and another of critics, wine sellers and educators, to blind-taste

a selection of red and white wines

that had previously been described by
others as conveying minerality. As a
control, several wines with no such
perceived minerality were included in
the tasting.
The blind-tasting panels then selected what they considered the most
mineral-inflected wines from those offered, as well as several they deemed
devoid of minerality. Now for the interesting part: Laboratory analysis of
the wines found a shared group of particular chemical components in all the
wines showing a perceived minerality.
Those compounds were absent from
the non-minerally wines.
What does this tell us? At minimum it tells us that something is going
on. Whether that something is a
function of soil composition, climate,
or microorganisms in the soil is unclear or unknown. But it assuredly is
worth finding out.
But what it also showsand this is
vitalis that we, as sensory creatures,
can discern something that we choose
to call minerality. Whether its actually from minerals is irrelevant to wine appreciation, if not
necessarily to wine science. (They are two very different
things, after all.)
When we ascribe to a wine the scent of peaches or roses or wax,
we dont mean that those ingredients really are present. Such descriptions are evocative; they allow us to communicate a shared
sensory experience. Its possible, likely even, that the wines may
contain chemical compounds shared by those descriptive/evocative fruits or flowers. Or they may not. More than a little of what
goes on chemically in a wine is a result of synergies and interactions that are, individually, technically below threshold yet nevertheless can have an effect syncretistically.
Most important of all is that this experience is real. It needs
no objective proof. If we, in our collective shared communication, choose to agree that minerality best captures what were
all finding, well then, by golly, minerality it is.
After all, its there to be smelled, tasted and savored by all,
which we can most assuredly do to an impressive degree without
scientific instrumentation. Whether it really comes directly from
actual minerals is literalist nit-picking.
Matt Kramer has contributed to Wine Spectator regularly since 1985.

We discern something we call

minerality. Whether its
actually from minerals is
irrelevant to wine appreciation.

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JAMES MOLESWORT H

How Important Is Blind Tasting to You?

hen it comes to
tasting wines for
review, Wine
Spectator editors
adhere to a particular methodology: single blind tasting.
Our mission is similar to a courtroom
jurys: to arrive at a fair and objective
verdict. So, as in a courtroom, certain
facts are permitted, while other information is not. In our tastings, editors
are told the vintage, appellation and
varietal of the wine, but not the producer or price. We feel this removes the
most powerful sources of bias and gives
each wine an equal opportunity to show
its best. Our goal is to provide you, the
reader, with the fairest and most objective wine reviews possible.
But there are many in the wine
trade who question the validity, or the
usefulness, of blind tasting. Some argue
that blind tasting favors fruit-forward
wines or lavishly oaked versions, while
more tannic/backward or lighter/elegant wines are at a disadvantage. Others think that having a wines story at
handwho made it, how, and the philosophy behind it allis crucial to evaluating a wine. Then
there are critics who simply assert that blind tasting isnt necessary for them because they are honest and unbiased.
We wanted to know what our readers think about blind tasting. So we recently conducted an online survey that asked the
following question: When you are considering wine reviews,
how important is it to you that the scores and notes come from
blind tastings? We asked poll-takers to select from one of four
choices in answering:
a) Blind tasting is critical, because its the only way to guarantee fairness.
b) Blind tasting is useful, but if the taster is experienced, its
not necessary.
c) Blind tasting is a drawback, because the story behind the
wine is also important.
d) Every tasting is subjective, so I buy on a wines reputation
and price.

In my opinion, the strongest argument against blind tasting is the assertion that the methodology itself has
certain structural biases built into it.
This is where experience counts.
If the taster has tasted widely, and
can remove his or her personal preference for a particular style and focus
simply on quality, then character and
ageability can be discerned whether
wines are powerful or elegant, tannic
or soft, fruit-forward or minerally.
Gaining that crucial experience requires more than just tasting wine after
wine in an antiseptic room. It comes
from tasting wines at every stage of
their evolution. It comes from kicking
the dirt in vineyards with winemakers,
seeing their efforts firsthand and letting
them explain the how and why of what
they do. This context is invaluable, and
we rely on it heavily in understanding
where a wine comes from and how it
might evolve. Yes, understanding the
stories behind wines is important in developing the ability to evaluate them.
But the story of a wine, however
cool, doesnt determine the wines ultimate quality. And, if you like the story, thats a powerful incentive to like the wine. Thats why we blind the taster, so the
narrative doesnt influence our judgment.
As for the just trust me, Im not biased approach, well, it
may be honestly believed. But study after study has shown that
label bias existsperhaps magnified in inexperienced tasters versus more experienced ones, but exist it does. When you know
what youre tasting, the nearly inevitable result is that the grand
cru is better than the premier cru, which is better than the village
wine. If that were always true, why would you need independent
critics? You could just label-drink your way through life.
I feel if Im to be as independent and objective a wine writer
as humanly possible, tasting blind is crucial. At Wine Spectator,
we report on (not for) the industry because we report to consumers. Being objective is at the heart of that important distinction.
The result of the survey? A landslide. Nearly 80 percent of respondents agreed that blind tasting is critical to ensure fairness in
wine reviews. Just 12 percent felt it was useful but not necessary.
Even fewer chose the other two options. You can access the survey
and still cast a vote at www.winespectator.com/blindtastingpoll.
Senior editor James Molesworth has been with Wine Spectator since 1997.

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
In his blogs, James Molesworth shares updates from his recent tastings and
visits with winemakers, tries out different wine pairings and more. Join the
conversation with other members at www.winespectator.com/molesworth.

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DAVID YELLEN

If Im to be as independent
and objective a wine writer
as humanly possible,
blind tasting is crucial.

&

S T I NG
T R U D I E S

TUSCAN
Adventure












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B Y R O B E R T C A M U TO

n the countryside southeast of Florence, Italy, winemakers and

other locals gather for an aperitivo on a gorgeous midsummer
evening. Wine flows and fresh pizzas emerge from a wood-fired
oven as the sun sets behind the Chianti hills.
A trim, bearded Englishman wearing jeans and a T-shirt, who
has been mingling in the crowd, mounts the tiny stage with an acoustic
guitar. He launches into a solo version of the Polices 1983 chart-topping
hit Every Breath You Take.
The crowd is galvanized by the familiar voice and the energetic reinterpretation of a classic song. For the man is none other than the
songs creator.
At 64, Sting, the legendary Police frontman turned solo performer,
has accumulated 16 Grammy awards and still fills arenas around the
world. But the artist and his wife, Trudie Styler, are taking a break from

P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S A N D R O M I C H A H E L L E S

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PREVIOUS PAGE: STYLIST, LUDOVICA NANNI; HAIR, ALAIN PICHON, MAKEUP: LUCIANO SQUEO; SHIRT AND JEANS, STELLA McCARTNEY

At Il Palagio, the Tuscan villa he owns with his wife, Trudie Styler, Sting performs a song by his iconic former band, the Police, which is still revered for its transporting live sets.

a European tour to unwind at Il Palagio, the Tuscan estate they

purchased in 1997.
Over the years, the couple has brought the nearly 900-acre property back to productive life. They replanted its vineyards and
launched a boutique winery based on biodynamic and organic principles. They produce other crops as wellolive oil, honey, beans
and moreand sell them at the Tenuta Il Palagio Farm Shop, where
this evenings festivities are taking place.
Though Sting and Styler make no pretense of being winemakers, their stewardship has given new life and prestige to an estate
that formerly produced bulk wines. They have assembled a team
that has produced outstanding wines. And they have become part
of the community.
Giovanni Manetti, owner of the highly esteemed producer Fontodi, is among the guests. They have everything [they need] to do
well, Manetti says. They have great passion for quality and love
for the place.
Another fan is Giulia Mugnai, the 29-year-old mayor of the commune of Figline e Incisa Valdarno (population 24,000). Its very
important to us the way [Sting] takes care of a piece of our countryside, says Mugnai.
As an encore, Sting performs an unplugged version of Message
in a Bottle, his 1979 hit. By the end, the crowd is chanting along:
Sending out an SOS Sending out an SOS.
And in fact, Il Palagio needs help. Despite its critical successes,
the sprawling estate threatens to become a financial burdeneven

for Stings fortune, estimated at $300 million. But Sting and Styler
are forging ahead.
I think in some ways its a pejorative: celebrity wine. Because
there is so much of it, Sting says. We havent been here for generations. But we are serious. We are committed.

he next morning, the couple relaxes in a narrow garden

loggia outside Il Palagios 16th-century villa. The views
extend over vineyards, olive groves, and pine and oak
forests to the silhouette of the Apennine Mountains.
Sting wears baggy surfer trunks and a T-shirt, and Styler, a long
batik summer dress. Both are lithe and toned from years of yoga.
For the English, Italy is the diametric opposite end of the continent with the opposite weather and the opposite temperament, Sting remarks. So we are attracted to it. Its been that way
for centuries.
The journey that led Sting and Styler to this spot began in the
summer of 1990, when the couple rented a villa estate outside
Pisa. There, Sting recorded his third solo album, Soul Cages,
dedicated to his deceased father, and Styler gave birth to the couples third child, Eliot. At that point Italy was in our blood, Styler remembers.
They purchased a sprawling Elizabethan country house in southern England in 1991 and began farming it organically. But they
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When Sting and Styler bought Il Palagio nearly 20 years ago, they were charmed by the historic villa and pastoral surrounds. They had no idea they were about to become vintners.

continued their search for real estate in central Tuscany, which has
been nicknamed Chiantishire for the number of English property
owners and visitors.
The search ended at the gates of Il Palagio, then owned by the
cash-strapped aristocrat Duke Simone Velluti Zati di San Clemente. Sting remembers being struck by the entrance of the
estatea mile-long alley of Tuscan cypresses that leads up through
vineyards to the Renaissance villa and gardens. He and Styler
walked through Il Palagios acres of woods and swam in one of
five 1950s-era man-made lakes.
The house was kind of falling down, but the rooms were livable, Sting says. We knew it needed a lot of work. But the clincher
for me was the wine. The duke said to me, Would you like to taste
some of the wine? I said, Sure, and tasted it, and, wow. I said,
Okay, well buy it.
We bought it for a song, Sting says dryly. He reports that the
purchase price of the villa, then 270 acres, was 6.2 billion Italian
liras, which at the time was roughly equivalent to $3.5 million.
Maybe two songs.
The couple began restoring the labyrinthine house and outbuildings and introduced organic methods to the vineyards. They kept
on the longtime estate manager, Paolo Rossi, who was born at Il
Palagio and who comes from a centuries-old Tuscan family. But
they were disappointed when the following harvest produced lackluster wines, with rough, bitter edges.
One day about 18 months later, I said to Paolo, Our wine doesnt
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taste as good as the day the duke gave it to me, Sting recalls.
And Paolo said, S, Sting, the wine the duke gave you was not
our wine.

would never pretend I knew anything about wine,

says Sting. But I know what I like. And that when I
taste it, I want to drink more.
Sting, born Gordon Matthew Thomas Sumner in
1951, grew up in a working-class family in industrial beer-andwhiskey-drinking northern England. Wine was not part of his
early culture.
He studied to be a teacher and moonlighted as a jazz bassist,
earning the nickname Sting for the beelike yellow-and-black
striped sweater he wore to perform in local clubs.
After moving to London in 1977, with its red-hot punk rock
scene, Sting helped form the Policean iconoclastic, reggaeinfused rock trio of which he became the principal songwriter.
After early struggles, the band caught fire in the United States
and the United Kingdom. Over nearly a decade, the Police released five studio albums and a slew of hits, becoming one of the
best-selling groups of all time. In the mid-1980s, Sting launched
an eclectic solo career that has spanned eleven albums and a variety of styles.
In the early 1980s, after the Police had achieved global success,

Clockwise from top left: stainless-steel tanks at Il Palagios winery; the villas cabana and giant chess board; an olive grove on the grounds; the estate vineyards

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ting and Styler met in London in the early 1980s. She was
an actress with the Royal Shakespeare Company, and he
was living with his first wife, actress Frances Tomelty.
Sting and Tomelty divorced, and he and Styler struck
up a relationship, bearing four children between 1984 and 1995.
The couple married in 1992, some years after they had become the
faces of the Rainforest Foundation, an organization they founded
to support indigenous peoples in rain forest areas.
In the 1990s, Styler started Xingu Films, which produces documentaries and art house films. She is also directing and producing
the upcoming film Freak Show, based on the novel by James St. James
and starring Bette Midler, Abigail Breslin and Alex Lawther.
Styler grew up in the English countryside. Her father was a farm

TOP LEFT: JAIME TRAVEZAN

Sting began to realize that the bottles of wine left in his concert
dressing rooms by music promoters shouldnt be ignored.
I had been oblivious, he recalls. What they were leaving was
Chteauneuf-du-Pape, incredible Burgundies, and Margaux and
Ptrus. And Id left it for my road crew. I said, Take it. I dont
drink wine.
Danny Quatrochi, Stings longtime personal bass and guitar technician (and author of the well-received photo book Police Confidential) gathered up those bottles, became a connoisseur and told
Sting what he was missing. Once I realized what the promoters
were giving me was actually good wine, I started drinking it, Sting
laughs. I went straight to the top wines, and I got spoiled.
He also found that wine provided an antidote to his grueling
tour schedule. I have so much adrenaline going through my system after being on stage, he says. I find a glass of red wine brings
me back to earth and I find my rhythm.

Il Palagios wine team comprises co-winemaker and vineyard manager Daniel ODonnell (far left), winemaking consultant Paolo Caciorgna, and estate manager Paolo Rossi (right).

manager, and she felt a direct connection to agriculture. My dad

was instrumental in teaching me that everything begins in the soil,
she says. I was taught when I was very young that a natural way
of gardening and farming would prevail over everything else.
When Sting and Styler bought Il Palagio, they had no plans to
enter the wine business. Rather, Sting says, We were looking for
a refuge, and the fact that it was a working farm attracted us as
well. But we didnt really think of it as a commercial thing at all.
It was the aesthetic of having a working farm around us.
After restoring the main buildings and elaborate Tuscan gardens
and adding a recording studio atop the small 1920s winery just
yards away, the couple turned their attention to the vineyards in
hopes of producing better quality.
It was the Platonic principle of having a piece of land and trying to make it better, which I think we have done, Sting says.
The couple found their wine inspiration serendipitously. In 2000,
Styler was in Los Angeles when a winemaker friend introduced her
to Alan York, the Texas-born horticulturalist and vineyard consultant who had successfully helped convert the Benziger familys Sonoma Valley winery to biodynamic practices. Sting and Styler found
Yorks eloquent, artistic nature engaging, and his commitment to
biodynamics appealed to their environmentalist sensibilities.
They invited York to Il Palagio, where, Styler says, the vineyards
were in a state of neglect, with much of the soil hard and parched
from lack of care and drainage. I absolutely trusted that Alan could
turn this into a working vineyard, which it had not been, she says.
It needed money, but it also needed some really good vineyard
practice, which there hadnt been for a long time.
York also imparted a notion of terroir that Sting equates with
music. Alan said that he wanted to create something unique that
could only be grown here, with its own signature, Sting says. Even
though it was going to cost a lot of money, the ethos of creating
something unique really spoke to us. For me, the analogy of music
was strong because success in music is about sounding unique.

York went to work immediately with Rossi and the estate team,
replanting 28 acres of vines between 2000 and 2002, first adding
sorely needed drainage and then composting and nurturing soils.
For a couple of years, it looked like a war zone down there, remembers Sting, who says he and Styler didnt influence the mix of
international and Tuscan grapes, led by Sangiovese. We left it up
to the experts, he says.
Most of Il Palagios vineyards climb its dominant southeastfacing hillside, with Merlot and Cabernet at the top, Sangiovese
in the middle, and Colorino and an assortment of other varieties
at the base. An adjacent 5-acre hillside called La Torre produces
the estates most prized Sangiovese, which provides the base for
the Sister Moon bottling, named for a Sting song and as a nod to
biodynamic moon-cycle farming.
Sting and Styler report that in 2004, they paid the equivalent
of more than $7 million for about 520 neighboring acres, which
included the ruins of nine farmhouses and 42 acres of largely abandoned vineyards in an area the team commonly refers to by the
name of the horse ranch next doorVecchio Texas.
In 2007, York recruited Paolo Caciorgna, who oversees winemaking at a number of small Italian estates, including the stellar
Montalcino producer La Serena, as winemaking consultant. Caciorgna modernized Il Palagios winery with temperature-controlled
steel tanks set outdoors to replace old concrete vats, new wood
barrels to replace the antique chestnut casks, and sorting tables to
select harvested fruit. The new team also introduced green harvesting to improve ripening and complexity in the vineyards.
Throwing grapes on the ground did not set well with the locals, says Sting, who compares the technique to editing music.
Only when they tasted the wine did they understand.
The powerful 2007 vintage served as the debut of Sister Moon,
a 4,166-case Sangiovese-based blend, which Caciorgna calls the
highest expression of the estate. Released in 2010, it earned 93
points in a Wine Spectator blind tasting and was called a polished
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53

became a serious mission led by

Styler, who calls herself the
more entrepreneurial member
of the couple.
It came to a time when
Trudie was very keen to have it
work as a real business and not
a vanity, says Fiona Fowler,
CEO of Sting and Stylers London-based business investment
firm, Steerpike Ltd. That
reached a head in 2012.
That year, the couple moved
their home base from England
to New York to mount a Broadway production of Stings musical, The Last Ship, based on his
shipbuilding hometown of
Wallsend, England. (The show
opened in October 2014, but
despite a pair of Tony nominations, it closed three months
later; Sting is reworking the
project for a London debut and
a possible movie treatment.)
The move meant less time
for the couple in Tuscany, with
The Police (from left: Sting, drummer Stewart Copeland and guitarist Andy Summers) perform live in the the early 1980s.
the house remaining vacant for
more of the year. In addition to opening the farm store in 2010,
and beautiful wine. Most subsequent vintages have earned outover the past several years, the couple has leased the villa and three
standing scores.
smaller houses (with accommodations for a total of 31) for wedAt the same time, with the market demanding more affordable
dings and holidays for up to 93,000 euros a week, the equivalent
bottles, Il Palagio completed its line of estate reds at lower price
of about $105,000.
points. With the 2008 vintage came the Sangiovese-dominated
Of course its our home, but theres a hell of a lot of it and a lot
Toscana Casino Delle Vie, and with 2010, the first vintage of a
of people here and salaries to make, says Styler. So we asked,
traditional Chianti called When We Dance, priced between $20
How can we make it work financially?
and $40.
We are a work in process, echoes Sting. We want to strike a
Despite the accolades, the wines renown remained limited in
balance of having it pay for itself at least at some point.
the highly competitive arena of super Tuscans. With Sting and
Styler focusing on other creative projects, no one was promoting
the wine, and it didnt touch the kind of popular success Sting was
used to with his music.
We made what we thought was the appropriate investment to
s Sting and Stylers lives and goals changed, the wine
revitalize the property within our vision of bio-responsibility and
project lost its operational leader. In 2012, York fell
winemaking, Styler says. To that end, this was a substantial unill; he died in 2014. During that time, Styler was lookdertaking financially, knowing full well that we are at the very being to expand distribution in the United States and
ginning of a multigenerational undertaking.
began talking with a potential new importer, San Franciscobased
Wine production grew over time but did not cover the costs of
Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Through Maritime (which
the estate. Its a big ship, with seven full-time vineyard employees
eventually took over in 2014), Styler was introduced to Daniel
plus others to tend the vegetable and fruit gardens, bees, chickens,
ODonnell, a gregarious California native and wine-blending spepigs and Friesian horses. Then there are the staff and expenses ascialist with clients around the world.
sociated with maintaining the three-story villa and meticulously
ODonnell, 55, is a pragmatist, with a blunt style and instincts
landscaped Tuscan garden showcasing a massive sculpted marble
for the global wine business. His clients include the Swedish alcofountain that once adorned Sophia Lorens Roman villa.
hol monopoly, mammoth Italian bottler MCM Mondo del Vino
For Sting, who has relied on Il Palagio chiefly as a personal and
and emerging estates in Turkey. In early 2013, he came on board
creative idyll, making money there was not always a priority. I am
at Il Palagio as co-winemaker and vineyard manager.
happy to go on tour and make enough money to finance these projOne of ODonnells first steps was to abandon Yorks strict bioects, he says. But eventually Il Palagios financial sustainability
dynamic philosophy. Rossi, the estate manager, complained that
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ROB VERHORST/GETTY IMAGES

the vineyards had been suffering from mildew and mold, partly because Yorks approach favored herbal tea treatments and restricted
the use of organic copper and sulfur. It was sometimes difficult to
l Palagio has become a gathering place. When its not filled
obtain good quality, Rossi says.
with Stings six adult children and their families, the esWhile Il Palagio still uses some biodynamic methods, such as
tate often hosts a changing salon of friends, musicians, acfertilization using only cover crops, it has abandoned others, like
tors, film and theater producers and directors, philanthropists,
the tea treatments. Much of biodynamics, ODonnell says, has
and intellectuals.
nothing to do with winemaking. I dont subscribe to it.
The farm produce is worked into elaborate, fresh gluten-free
ODonnell also saw Il Palagios vineyard production as too low
meals prepared by Sting and Stylers gifted personal chef, Joe
he says it was as little as 1.2 tons of fruit per acre. Believing the
Sponzo. Bottles of the house wine circulate freely.
estate could boost production with more consistently ripe and
For me its a place to think, to get inspired, to bring people,
healthy grapes, he changed the pruning techniques last year, optSting says. Wine is part of the cross-pollination of ideas.
ing for traditional spur-cordon pruning instead of the short prunThe musician recorded songs for five albums in the attic studio,
ing used previously. That detail, ODonnell believes, will allow
sometimes wandering into the winery to enjoy the echo while
for better canopy management, improved
singing and playing guitar. I dont know if
air flow and higher production without sacit has any effect on the wine, he says.
rificing quality. ODonnell has targeted proBut the wine has clearly had an effect on
duction levels of 2.4 tons per acrestill well
him. One evening during the week of the
below the legal limit in Chianti of 3.6 tons
party at the farm store, Sting, Styler and their
per acre.
wine team meet in the garden for a vertical
Were losing our assnobodys making
tasting of six vintages of Sister Moon.
any money here, ODonnell nearly shouts
Quickly, Sting is dismayed to see the tastas he stands in a vineyard one morning. It
ers pouring out leftover wine between vinwould be awesome at some point if we broke
tages. The northern European in me cant
even. I know that would make Sting happy.
accept pouring out wine like that, he says.
ODonnells biggest potential contribuPeripatetic is the word the performer
has often used to describe his migratory life.
tion to Il Palagios bottom line is a wine
It is also a fitting way to describe Sting and
called Message in a Bottle. A SangioveseStylers eclectic wine tastes.
based blend of estate and purchased wines,
Styler prefers whites and enthusiastically
it debuted with the 2011 vintage in an
discusses the wines shes enjoyed in her trav8,333-case release and retailed for $20.
els, from Tasmanian Rieslings to Polands
The wine is marketed under a sister laAdoria Vineyard Chardonnay. She talks of
bel, Il Palagio Ltd.; ODonnell believes it
her love of Montrachet and remembers bewill provide more visibility for the estateZ
ing inspired by a conversation with Burgrown wines, which are now labeled Tenuta
gundy winemaker Anne-Claude Leflaive
Il Palagio.
during a dinner hosted by Prince Charles.
We didnt know about the ngociant
Sting, a red wine lover, doesnt record such details. He has enmodel, Sting says. Then we realized everyone else was doing it.
joyed bottles from Burgundys Domaine de la Romane-Conti
I dont think [York] would have wanted it.
and Bordeaux first-growths but says that he now opts for BrunelIn the spring of 2013, ODonnell and Caciorgna tasted hundreds
los and Barolos.
of red wine samples from the 2011 vintage made at neighboring esI prefer Italian wine now, he says. It may just be loyalty to my
tates and cooperatives, settling on a few for blending. We looked
people since we bought Il Palagio. I feel we have a stake in the Italfor interesting wines, and we found wines that matched very well
ian economy.
with the textures and temperament of Il Palagio, ODonnell says.
Though wine has become part of his everyday life, Sting is an
The first edition of Message in a Bottle experienced growing
instinctive taster who hasnt adopted a wine-tasting vocabulary.
pains. It was plagued by shipping and distribution problems and
Im fascinated, when I read a wine review, how they can talk
a lack of recognition. Though the 2011 inventory is now all sold,
about some cherry in it and chocolate and tobacco. I dont have a
no 2012 was made.
palate to identify those things, Sting says. Taste to me is a waveIl Palagio continues to grow, both as an estate and as a brand.
length. Its like listening to Gustave Mahler or Burt Bacharach. Its
Another 42 acres of largely abandoned vineyards are scheduled
all good, but theres a spectrum of intensity.
to be replaced, and ODonnell hopes that with upcoming vinAt Il Palagio, the wine team solicits Stings opinion on each bottages, Message in a Bottle will combine estate grapes with those
tling, sending samples to him wherever he is around the globe.
purchased from contracted organic growers and vinified by CaODonnell says the ultimate compliment from the star is a simple
ciorgna. He also hopes to buy grapes for Caciorgna to vinify a
I can drink that.
white blend.
I can drink wine every day, says Sting. Wine actually makes
We cant just keep buying wine and bottling it, ODonnell
me more of who I am.
says. We have to find the dirt.

STYLIST, LUDOVICA NANNI; HAIR, ALAIN PICHON, MAKEUP: LUCIANO SQUEO; DRESS, DSQUARED2

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Proseccoland
7 S PA RKLES7

This Glera vineyard in the

hills of Prosecco Superiore
DOCG overlooks the hamlet
of Santo Stefano di
Valdobbiadene, nestled at
the foot of Mount Cesen.

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ine doesnt get much trendier or harder to understand

than Prosecco, the popular northern Italian sparkler
with a head-spinning range of styles.
Theres no more enjoyable way to experience the full gamut of
Proseccosfrom rustic to sophisticatedthan by sipping and
eating your way across the heart of the steep, terraced hills north

of Venice in the peaceful and bucolic Prosecco appellation.

In contrast to Proseccos 21st-century urban vogue, Proseccoland (as locals often call it) tends to be down-home traditional,
in a good way. Though an appetizer using tofu was found on one
menu, area dining resembles that of the Italian countryside 30 years
ago, with the best bottles of Prosecco Superiore still less than $35.

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TOP: BUENA VISTA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES; CENTER LEFT: COLIN DUTTON

Think creamy polentas with

fresh, spicy local sopressa salumi,
perfectly fluid, al dente risottos
and a variety of meats cooked
over coals. Menus follow the season: in spring, asparagus, lamb
and wild greens, for example; in
fall, pumpkin, chestnuts, mushrooms and game. There is usually
a selection of fresh seafood, and
in winter some chefs base entire
meals on the regions most prized
ingredient: Treviso radicchio.
The Prosecco Superiore appellation, centered in the hills of
Valdobbiadene and Conegliano,
a historic countryside dating
from the Roman Empire through
the battlefronts of World War I,
lies within a two-hour drive of
the Venice airport.
Visitors to Venice shouldnt Clockwise from top: The town of Treviso, a popular stop en route to Proseccoland; jasmine teasmoked wild salmon with crispy
hesitate to explore this nearby eggplant mini-calzones in ginger bonito broth, at Ristorante La Corte; the Claudio Boscolo produce stand at the market in Conegliano
wine country, although Prosecco
tourism still takes a backseat to
hiking, biking and other forms
of travel recreation.
We are in the capital of bubbles in the world, enthuses
Gianluca Bisol, 50, the exuberant president of Bisol winery, citing Proseccos rise to its current
position as the worlds most exported sparkling wine. But, he
adds, when you arrive in Valdobbiadene, there is very little
experience around Prosecco.
Unlike in Italian wine capitals such as Barolo or Chianti,
wine hospitality here remains
underdeveloped. But Bisol predicts it wont stay that way.
In fact, change has already begun. More and more wineries are
adding guest accommodations
and offering visits and tours.
Le Colture winery. There you can understand everything.
Restaurants, trattorias and cafs are growing their wine lists to
Ruggeri regularly leads guests to the top of Cartizze, Prosecco
showcase local breadth and variety. One symbol of the move to
Superiores most coveted rocky limestone terroir (comprising 250
distinctive character is that Prosecco is no longer served in Chamacres cultivated by 140 growers) and walks them along the ridge
pagne flutes but in generous glasses, including a diamond-shaped
of his familys steeply sloping vineyard.
version developed by local producers and Riedel.
The view is stunning. Uphill behind him are dense forests of the
The winding, scenic drive from Valdobbiadene to Conegliano
Alpine foothills. Looking down and southward, you see a sprawltakes about an hour. The best visiting strategy is to choose a base
ing range of slopes and valleys that drop off to the flat vineyards
for three days and explore from there.
and industrial plains south of the Piave River. The hills of ValdobFrom his familys winery in the heart of Valdobbiadenes vineyards,
biadene and beyond are dotted with evocative architecture, includAlberto Ruggeri suggests how to learn about Prosecco. Go to the
ing beautiful bell towers, abbeys and historic villas.
top of the Cartizze hill, says Ruggeri, 38, pointing upward from his
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61

Roberto Pieri, sommelier at Ristorante Da Gigetto

Out on the horizon, about 50 miles south, is Venice, with its famously crowded canals, piazzas and palaces. But here on Cartizze
this Saturday morning, there are no tourists.
Still, guest rooms can be scarce, so its wise to book well in advance, particularly for weekends of the main season, which runs
from April to October. Between winery visits and meals, plan time
for short trips to see other sites, including villas open to the public,
the medieval castle-topped town of Asolo, and the canals and monuments of tiny Vittorio Veneto and of the regional capital, Treviso,
which resembles Venice on a smaller (and less touristy) scale.
Note: We recommend contacting restaurants and hotels in advance
to confirm hours of operation and/or any seasonal closures. When calling the following establishments from North America, dial 011 and then
the telephone number.
Prices in this story have been converted to U.S. dollars using the exchange rate at press time ($1 equals 0.88 euro) and rounded to the
nearest dollar. In the listings below, restaurants take all major credit
cards. All hotel prices are for double rooms and include complimentary
breakfast. The wineries profiled all offer English language visits; make
reservations in advance by e-mail or telephone.

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BY A LI S ON NA PJUS

rosecco, the light, bright sparkling

wine from northeastern Italy, has seen
phenomenal success in the United
States in recent years. Imports of Prosecco to the U.S. skyrocketed from fewer than a
million cases in 2010 to almost 4 million cases
just five years latermore than double the volume of Champagne coming to the U.S.according to Impact Databank, a sister publication of
Wine Spectator. Proseccos success is undeniable,
but with so many new producers and labels in the
market, consumers may wonder: Are all Proseccos created equal?
The answer is no. As with any wine region,
shoppers need to do their homework to find top
examples. In 2009, Italys Ministry of Agriculture
made this task simpler, technically, by promoting
bottlings from two sub-zones that encompass
roughly 25 percent of the larger Prosecco area:
The Asolo and Conegliano Valdobbiadene areas
were raised to the status of Denominazione di
Origine Controllata Garantita (DOCG), Italys
highest designation for quality in wine, and are
now labeled as Prosecco Superiore DOCG.
Prosecco includes 50,000 acres of vineyards,
spanning the Veneto and FriuliVenezia-Giulia
regions, largely north of Venice, with about 80
percent of the vines in the Veneto. Over the past
year, I have tasted 90 Proseccos, focusing both on
labels with wide availability in the U.S. and on
small-production bottlings from the regions
DOCG areas. At the top end are two Proseccos
at 90 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale:
the lively Angelo Rebuli & Figli Extra Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore NV ($34) and the
Giancarlo Moretti Polegato is owner and CEO of Villa Sandi, whose
4-acre La Rivetta estate produced one of this reports top bottlings.

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71

TASTING REPORT

PROSECCO

rich Villa Sandi Brut Valdobbiadene Superiore di

Cartizze Vigna La Rivetta
NV ($45). Both versions
show finesse, with fine,
creamy mousses, as well as
overall harmonycharacteristics that help to set
them above their peers.
But while these top
sparklers reached the outstanding range of 90 points
or higher, the average
score for the Proseccos I
tasted is 85 points. Quality
in general is good for Prosecco, but theres not a big
gain from a typical example to some of the best versions. There is, however, a
significant jump in price;
at $34 and $45 per bottle,
this reports 90-pointers Located in the heart of the Valdobbiadene area, Mionetto was founded in 1887 and today produces a range of well-priced sparklers.
are well above the average
price of $20 per bottle. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Miraval 2015 (88, $19) is
for all wines tasted is available at www.winespectator.com/043016.
creamy and balanced, with mandarin orange peel and spice notes.
For a list of recommended wines, see the chart on page 74.)
These examples from the DOC and DOCG areas showcase the
Americas interest in Prosecco gained momentum during the
stylistic range of the category. Historically, most Proseccos were
economic crisis, solidifying as wine drinkers established a taste
produced as dry, which in fact denotes a medium-sweet, fruity
for the wine and as the strengthening dollar led to more affordwine. Dry versions are still regularly produced, but extra dry
able pricing. At less than $15 per bottle, several versions from
(juicy and lightly sweet) or brut (dry and crisp) are more comthe larger Prosecco DOC (comprising nine sub-zones separate
mon today.
from the DOCG areas) stand out. Ca Furlans Extra Dry Prosecco
Prosecco is made from Italys native Glera grape, using the autoCuve Beatrice NV (87, $10) is lightly juicy and balanced, with
clave, or Charmat, method. In this method, the Glera grapes are
stone fruit, citrus and floral notes; Tizianos vibrant Dry Prosecco
harvested, pressed and vinified as a still white wine before being
NV (87, $13) offers aromatic Thai basil and verbena notes; and
sealed in a pressurized tank wherein a second fermentation and
the Mionetto Brut Prosecco Treviso Prestige Collection (86, $14)
the development of bubbles occur before bottling. This can be
is fresh and well-spiced, with ripe green pear and plum fruit.
contrasted to several other sparkling wine typesChampagne,
Value can also be found in the DOCG areas. The Nino Franco
many California sparklers and Spanish cavas among themwhere
Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Rustico NV (88, $18) is
the second fermentation occurs in the bottle from which the confresh, stony and refined, and the Bellenda Extra Dry Conegliano
sumer drinks and that are generally based on Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir grapes.
As a result of the grape variety and the production method,
Prosecco is typically more light-bodied and aromatic than many
other sparkling wines, and the best versions are well-balanced
CONEGLIANO
VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO
and refreshing, regardless of their level of sweetness (dry, extra
SUPERIORE DOCG
FRIULI
dry or brut).
N
Cartizze area
As demand for Prosecco continues to rise, the region and its proUdine

ducers face the challenge of maintaining their traditions and qualValdobbiadene

Conegliano
Asolo
ity without becoming victims of their own success. As it stands,
AREA
Treviso
fresh and enjoyable examples of Prosecco abound. But, as with any
Trieste
OF
Verona
DETAIL
wine, quality isnt universal, and consumers need to parse the
Venice
offerings carefully. To fully appreciate Prosecco, its also important
VENETO
ASOLO
to recognize it as its own unique categoryits not Champagne,
PROSECCO
SUPERIORE
and it doesnt pretend to be. So enjoy Prosecco as the Italians do,
DOCG
PROSECCO DOC
simply to add a little sparkle to your day.
Senior editor Alison Napjus in Wine Spectators lead taster on Prosecco.
72

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Prosecco

TASTING REPORT

PROSECCO

PROSECCO

Quality Guide

Prosecco labels include information that will help you differentiate

between the regions introductory offerings (DOC) and its more select
bottlings (DOCG), a distinction that may not be discernible by price.

7Prosecco DOCG wines will include the words 7The term Rive on the label denotes that the

7

sourced from 250 acres of vineyards on the very

Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garan-

wine was sourced from any of 43 steep hillside

steepest slopes in the Valdobbiadene area. Yields

tita on the label as well as on the pale gold DOCG

vineyard areas in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene

are lower than those of the Rive bottlings.

strip (as opposed to the blue DOC strip) over the

sub-zone, highlighting the specific terroir of a

bottles foil.

given Rive commune. These wines are harvested

at lower yields and entirely by hand, and the

Depending on the particular origin of the grapes,

bottles label must include the vintage year.

Prosecco DOCG wines must list a specific subzone, either Asolo, Colli Asolani, Conegliano,

7 A small number of bottlings from the Conegliano

7 The term Cartizze is Proseccos most exclusive

Valdobbiadene or Conegliano Valdobbiadene.

designation, given to wines produced from grapes

Valdobbiadene DOCG undergo the second fermentation in the bottle. These wines are typically
lower-pressure and very lightly sparkling. In this
case, the label does not list the term superiore,
but it does include the term frizzante.

Alison Napjus Recommended Proseccos

Ninety wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/043016.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP VALUES

TOP WINES
WINE

SCORE

PRICE

90

$34

ANGELO REBULI & FIGLIExtra Dry Valdobbiadene

Well-knit and balanced, with lively acidity backing the flavors of ripe
fig, juicy green pear, ground ginger, stone and slivered almond.
90

$45

Fine and creamy, with rich notes of glazed apricot, salted almond skin
and lemon parfait, this is accented by a hint of guava.
$26

A linear, minerally version, with a smoky underpinning and a subtle

mix of apple peel, baking spices, lemon zest and pickled ginger.
89

$53

SOLIGOBrut Prosecco Treviso NV

89

$35

$35

Lime sorbet, poached peach, Thai basil and verbena notes are set on
a soft and creamy mousse.

$30

A floral Prosecco, with a creamy bead carrying the well-spiced flavors

of white cherry, stargazer lily, Meyer lemon and melon.

TIZIANODry Prosecco NV
89

A creamy Prosecco, with lovely balance, offering rich notes of glazed

apple, marzipan, lemon parfait and candied ginger.

GANCIADry Prosecco NV
88

MIONETTOBrut Prosecco Treviso Prestige Collection NV

A fine, creamy mousse carries a subtle weave of yellow plum,

chopped almond, lemon curd and oyster shell notes.
BORTOLOMIOLExtra Dry Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore Bandarossa 2014

88

$21

This fresh, floral Prosecco shows fine balance. The flavors of white
peach, jasmine, star anise and pear are bright and expressive.

74

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87

$10

87

$17

87

$14

87

$13

86

$14

86

$14

TERRA SERENAExtra Dry Prosecco Treviso NV

86

$13

86

$15

85

$13

Offers a subtle mix of green pear, ground ginger, slivered almond,

stone and verbena notes.
88

$26

88

$20

Threads of smoke and ground spice unravel through the flavors of

glazed apple, stone, chopped almond and lemon sorbet.
ZARDETTODry Conegliano Valdobbiadene Zeta 2014

$18

A well-spiced Prosecco, with ripe green pear and plum fruit layered
with crisp acidity.

A firm backbone of acidity is well-knit with flavors of baked peach,

smoked almond and lemon meringue pie in this rich Prosecco.
NINO FRANCOBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore NV

88

Minerally and well-balanced, this subtle version has a creamy bead,

with pear, lemon sorbet and ground ginger flavors.
Notes of white peach and anise are layered with firm acidity and lots
of ground spice and floral accents.

An elegant version, with balancing acidity finely meshed with subtle

flavors of poached apricot, pastry, lemon cream and tarragon.

BELLENDABrut Conegliano Valdobbiadene

Prosecco Superiore Sei Uno NV

$18

Fagher NV

This is creamy and well-knit, with juicy acidity balancing rich flavors of
creamed almond, green melon, candied ginger and lemon meringue.

MIONETTODry Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze NV

88

Balanced and lightly juicy, this creamy Prosecco offers textbook notes
of white peach, almond skin and orchard blossom.
LE COLTUREBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

Superiore Cartizze NV

LE COLTUREValdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze NV

NINO FRANCOBrut Valdobbiadene

Prosecco Superiore Rustico NV

CA FURLANExtra Dry Prosecco Cuve Beatrice NV

89

Superiore Crede 2014

DESIDERIO BISOL & FIGLIDry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene

COL VETORAZBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2014

PRICE

A balanced sparkler, fresh and stony, with a subtle mix of crunchy

white peach, Thai basil, sliced almond and lemon pith.

Vigna La Rivetta NV

DESIDERIO BISOL & FIGLIBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco

SCORE

A sleek Prosecco, with a minerally undertow and flavors of crunchy

white peach, apple blossom, salted almond skin and lemon pith.

Prosecco Superiore NV

VILLA SANDIBrut Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze

WINE

VALDOBrut Prosecco NV

A juicy note of white peach puree is enlivened by pickled ginger,

candied lemon zest and orchard blossom hints.
CANTINE MASCHIOBrut Prosecco Treviso NV

Crisp and stony, with floral, white peach and slivered almond notes
riding the lively bead.

PIEDMONT RISES TO THE

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CHALLENGE

Vintners adapt to a warmer

vintage in 2011 to produce
outstanding Barolos

By Bruce Sanderson
Photograph By George Barberis

TASTING REPORT

MOLCHEN PHOTO; MAP: HENRY ENG

MAJOR WINE
REGIONS OF PIEDMONT

Casale
Po
Monferrato
A26

Monferrato DOC

A21

PIEDMONT

Alessandria
A21
o
Tanar

Asti

Sp
ig
no

he excitement continues unabated from Piedmont, fueled

by Barolo, Barbaresco and a handful of other reds from this
region in the Alpine foothills of northwestern Italy. The 2011
vintage, warmer than its predecessor, yielded rich, fleshy
wines, the best of which offer ripe fruit and lively structure.
The 2011 vintage is as ripe as it gets, but not overripe,
explains Aldo Vacca, director of Produttori del Barbaresco. The
decisive event was a three-week heat wave in August that spiked
temperatures. Yet growers have learned from earlier warm years,
such as 2009, 2007, 2003 and 2000, how to manage the heat,
retaining leaves to protect the grapes from excessive sun.
It is the generosity and smooth tannins of the years Nebbiolos
that make 2011 an approachable vintage to enjoy while waiting
for the sterner, more structured 2010s to shed their tannic cloaks.
Vying for wine of the vintage is Massolinos Barolo Margheria (96
points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, $99), which is lacy and
elegant for the Serralunga dAlba commune, whose wines are characterized by structure and longevity. This bright red offers cherry and
strawberry flavors accented by licorice, spice and tobacco.
Top-scoring Barolos from Serralunga were also made in 2011 by
Azeliathe vibrant Margheria (95, $80)and by Schiavenza, whose
Prap (95, $65) reveals the muscular, beefy side of Serralungas marl
soils. Other fine 2011s include the opulent Michele Chiarlo Cannubi (95, $101); the expressive Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio Monprivato (95, $150), with its characteristic finesse; the traditionally
styled, harmonious Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate (95, $135); and the
intense, resonant G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole (95, $70).
The 2011s will develop quickly, says Giuseppe Mascarello, who
joined his father, Mauro, in the business fully that vintage. He
compares 11 to 2007, two harvests where Mascarello didnt bottle
its C dMorissio Riserva.

A33

Roero
DOCG

o
Tanar

Alba

Barolo
DOCG

Asti DOCG

Barbaresco
DOCG

Ovada

Langhe
DOC

Gavi
DOCG

Monferrato DOC
A26

Dogliani DOCG
N

Italy
AREA OF
DETAIL
'
km

The Ravera cru of Novello also fielded some excellent Barolos in

2011, led by the focused and complex Elvio Cogno (95, $76), along
with versions from Marziano Abbona, G.D. Vajra and Vietti, all at
93 points. Luca Currado, owner and winemaker at Vietti, made five
outstanding Barolos from the 2011 vintage. I consider 2011 a blend
of 2009 and 10, Currado told me when we tasted his new vintages
together in New York in February
2015. It has the acidity of 2010,
and the alcohol is less than 2009,
about half a degree less. It reminds me of 2001structured,
with good acidity.
Among late-release Barolos,
Giacomo Conternos Monfortino
Riserva 2008 (97, $675) is one of
the best from a fine harvest. A
pair of 2010s, Cascina Luisins
Lon (95, $67) and Damilanos
Cerequio (95, $87) excelled in a
year that produced more than two
dozen classic-rated Barolos.
New releases from Barbaresco
are primarily from 2012, along
with some late-release 2011s.
The Cascina Roccalini Roccalini
(94, $53) and Moccagatta Cole
(94, $70) head the list of 2012s,
and the Cascina Luisin Rabaj
(94, $60), Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Asili Riserva (94, $400) and
Cantina del Pino Albesani (94,
Mauro Mascarello and son Giuseppe collaborated on the winerys 2011 Barolo Monprivato, earning a classic score for the red in
$66) are the top 2011s.
Giuseppes first full vintage in the family business. But the pair decided not to bottle a Barolo Riserva in 2011, citing the warm year.
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TASTING REPORT

PIEDMONT

Other areas in Piedmont are producing excellent wines as well.

Antoniolos Osso San Grato 2010 (93, $75) and Nervis Molsino
2008 (93, $90), both single-vineyard bottlings, show the potential
of the Gattinara area, which also relies on Nebbiolo for its reds. Gaja
is better known for its single-vineyard Langhe reds, but moves out of
the box with its Langhe Darmagi 2012 (93, $245), a Bordeaux blend.
These are some of the highlights from the blind tastings Ive
conducted in our New York office since my previous report (Pride
of Piedmont, April 30, 2015), representing a handful of the top
communes and producers, yet there many more outstanding wines
to be discovered. Of the nearly 800 Piedmont reds and whites
under review, more than 350 received outstanding scores of 90
points or higher, including 221 Barolos, mostly from 2011. Based
on my tastings, I give the 2011 vintage an overall rating of 94
points. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines
tasted is available at www.winespectator.com/043016.)
arolo and Barbaresco may drive the excitement factor for Piedmont, but its the reds made from two indigenous grapes other
than NebbioloDolcetto and Barberathat offer everyday
enjoyment. Both commonly associated with the area of Alba
along with Dogliani for Dolcetto and Asti for Barberathese casual
and unfussy wines are compatible with a wide range of foods.
The 2014 growing seasonthe current vintage for Dolcetto
was challenging for this early-ripening grape, delivering cold, wet
weather until September, including hail in Barolo, La Morra and
Monforte dAlba in July. Yields were 30 percent to 35 percent lower
than average for Dolcetto due to the inclement weather.
Nonetheless, a strict selection and later picking yielded some
excellent wines. Bruno Giacosa made the Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto dAlba 2014 (91, $30), from estate grapes, and the
Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto dAlba 2014 (90, $25), from purchased
grapes. Also successful are Massolinos Dolcetto dAlba 2014 (90,
$23) and Elvio Cognos Dolcetto dAlba Mandorlo 2014 (89, $22).
Nearby Dogliani, which produces richer, fleshier versions of
Dolcetto, also struggled in 2014. The result is leaner wines for the
most part, with crisp textures and edgy tannins. Marziano Abbonas

Dogliani San Luigi 2014 (90, $22) and Peccheninos Dogliani San
Luigi 2014 (88, $22) are the years best wines.
Recent vintages of Barbera are also slightly off the mark due to
the difficult growing conditions in both 2014 and 2013, yet this
abundant grape still delivers plenty of delicious wines. Of the 125

Vineyards in the Serralunga dAlba commune contributed more than two dozen outstanding 2011 Nebbiolos to this report, including the top-scoring Massolino Barolo Margheria.

82

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TOP: MOLCHEN PHOTO; BOTTOM: SIME/ESTOCK PHOTO

At Vietti, owner and winemaker Luca Currado bottles a range of Piedmont reds, from
cru Barolos to top values such as his Barbera dAsti Tre Vigne 2013.

TASTING REPORT

PIEDMONT

Barberas in this report, nearly a quarter rate

90 points or higher, including top-scorers such
as the Braida di Giacomo Bologna Barbera
dAsti Bricco dellUccellone 2013 (91, $65),
Michele Chiarlo Barbera dAsti Superiore
Nizza La Court 2012 (91, $50), Tenuta Rocca
Barbera dAlba Superiore Rca Neira 2012 (91,
$30), Paolo Scavino Barbera dAlba Affinato
in Carati 2013 (91, $26) and G.D. Vajra
Barbera dAlba Superiore 2012 (91, $30).
For fans of Barolo and Barbaresco seeking
more affordable wines to enjoy right now,
Nebbiolos from the Langhe should fit the bill.
The Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Langhe No
Name 2011 (92, $45) is a Barolo in all but
name. Having been refused the DOCG approval in 2005, the wine is now made each
year due to its initial successand also as a
protest of sorts. The Cavallotto Nebbiolo Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, in the Langhe, employs large oak barrels to age its traditional-style Barolos. The producer
Langhe 2012 (91, $30), Pelissero Nebbiolo typically releases its top wines later than its neighbors; its 2008 Riserva, for example, came to market this year.
Langhe 2013 (91, $28) and Cantina del Pino
Nebbiolo Langhe 2013 (91, $27) all show enticing strawberry and
good versions include Cordero di Montezemolos Langhe Elioro
floral notes typical of the grape, yet theyre ready to drink now and
2013 (89, $42) and Massolinos Langhe 2014 (89, $33).
over the next three to five years.
Although there are proponents of aging some of Piedmonts whites,
Despite the quality and appeal of the 2011 Barolos, demand is
I prefer them young. That said, two of the more successful aged whites
down slightly after the keen interest for the 2010s, particularly
are La Colomberas Timorasso Colli Tortonesi Il Montino 2011 (90,
single-vineyard labels at the high end of the price scale, according
$38), which is rich and broad, with vibrant acidity corralling butterto Mark Fornatale, Italian portfolio manager for Skurnik Wines.
tinged apple, peach and mineral flavors, and La Scolcas DAntan
What is selling well, however, are more affordable blended Baro2004 (90, $100), showing hints of beeswax and pine.
los. 2011 is a charming and forward vintage, and the wines found
Looking at Piedmont as a whole, there are plenty of reds and
a lot of fans, Fornatale adds.
whites for different occasions and budgets. The top Nebbiolos of
These Barolos offer the best value from the appellation. The
Barolo and Barbaresco deliver quality, but the wines need time in
Oddero Barolo (93, $48), Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serralunga dAlba
the cellar to show all their facets. The regions more approachable
(93, $51), Paolo Scavino Barolo (93, $44), Schiavenza Barolo del
reds and its lively whites offer more instant gratification.
Comune di Serralunga dAlba (93, $47) and G.D. Vajra Barolo
Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is Wine Spectators lead taster on the
Albe (93, $38) are all reliable examples.
wines of Piedmont.
iedmont offers a range of whites from both
indigenous and international grape varieties. Though many of the indigenous grapes
are planted in small quantities, I applaud
the efforts of Piedmont producers to prevent
varieties like Arneis, Favorita, Nascetta and
Timorasso from disappearing.
Generally speaking, there are two different
styles of whites from the region: fresh and
fruity or savory and minerally. In the former
category, the Fontanafredda Roero Arneis
Pradalupo 2014 (90, $18) offers fresh, juicy
peach, apple and citrus flavors, while the La
Giustiniana Gavi Lugarara 2014 (89, $18) is
highlighted by tangy lemon and apple notes.
More mineral versions are the Broglia Gavi
Bruno 2013 (89, $40) and Tenuta La Marchesa
Gavi Gold Label 2014 (88, $25).
In addition, many Langhe estates grow
Chardonnay and its quality can be high. Very

ALESSANDRO VECCHI

Rating Red Wine Vintages in Piedmont

2011

94

Rich, fleshy Barolos and balanced Barbarescos; the best

have vibrant structures for aging. A fine year for Barbera

2010

97

A cool growing season and ideal weather before harvest; pure, Hold
elegant and structured reds, with fine potential for aging

2009

92

A warm year with inconsistent ripening; the best reds offer

immediate fruit and flesh, others show underripe tannins

Drink or hold

2008

94

Warm late season rescued a cooler-than-average growing

season; ripe reds show good structure, purity and elegance

Hold

2007

95

A warm, dry year; wines offer flesh and immediate appeal

Drink or hold

2006

95

Many outstanding reds; cool weather made austere, muscular

Nebbiolos with aging potential

Drink or hold

2005

91

Balanced and elegant reds, delivering fruit and ripe tannins

for producers who worked well in the vineyard

Drink

2004

94

Fresh, harmonious, perfumed reds; hitting its peak now

Drink or hold

2003

88

Many unbalanced wines, due to an extremely hot growing

season, but some nice surprises. Barberas very successful

Drink or hold

Drink or hold

Notable older vintages: 1999, 1996, 1990, 1989, 1982, 1974, 1971, 1967, 1964, 1961, 1958
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage
not yet reviewed.
Vintage ratings 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not
recommendedDrinkability: NYR means the vintage has not yet been released; drink means most of the wines of the
vintage are ready to drink; hold means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature; past peak means most of
the wines are declining rather than improving.

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TASTING REPORT

PIEDMONT

Bruce Sandersons Recommended Wines From Piedmont

More than 750 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/043016.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP WINES (continued)

TOP WINES
WINE

SCORE

PRICE

97

$675

GIACOMO CONTERNOBarolo Monfortino Riserva 2008

Menthol, earth, underbrush and tobacco notes lead to sweet fruit.

MASSOLINOBarolo Margheria 2011

96

$99

95

$80

95

$67

95

$101

95

$76

95

$87

95

$150

95

$135

95
95
95
94
94

93

$37

91

$28

90

$26

90

$25

90

$23

90

$22

90

$18

90

$14

89

$18

89

$17

88

$18

88

$15

88

$16

88

$17

$75
MASSOLINODolcetto dAlba 2014

Expressive notes of cherry and blackberry grace this firm, intense red.
94

$125
MARZIANO ABBONADogliani San Luigi 2014

A blackberry-flavored red, with a hint of vanilla signalling oak aging.

94

$53
FONTANAFREDDARoero Arneis Pradalupo 2014

Harmonious, offering peach, apple and light citrus aromas and flavors.
94

$300
DANTE RIVETTIBarbera dAlba Mara 2012

Vibrant, with tense structure and blackberry and black currant notes.
94

$90
LA GIUSTINIANAGavi Lugarara 2014

Crisp and tangy, boasting lemon and apple, with a hint of stone.
94

$225
VIETTIBarbera dAsti Tre Vigne 2013

Black cherry and blackberry flavors show vanilla and resin hints.
94

$60
MARCHESI DI BAROLOBarbera dAlba Ruvei 2013

Vivid acidity supports the blackberry and boysenberry notes.

$400
COPPOBarbera dAsti LAvvocata 2014

A vibrant version, featuring boysenberry and pomegranate flavors.

94

$90
GIACOMO GRIMALDIDolcetto dAlba 2014

Leather, tar and spice notes trump the dried cherry and berry flavors.

86

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$38

BRUNO GIACOSADolcetto dAlba 2014

An elegant, sinewy style, offering classic Nebbiolo character.

MOCCAGATTABarbaresco Cole 2012

93

A fragrant red, offering violet and blackberry aromas and flavors.

FALLETTO DI BRUNO GIACOSABarbaresco Asili Riserva 2011 94

Round, supple and expressive, with cherry and raspberry fruit.

PRICE

$82

This is loaded with cherry, strawberry, herb, licorice and mineral notes.

ELIO GRASSOBarolo Ginestra Casa Mat 2010

WINE

CASCINA CHICCONebbiolo Langhe 2013

A solid structure grips the cherry, licorice, tobacco and stone flavors.
RENATO CORINOBarolo Arborina 2011

SCORE

TOP VALUES

This silky red shows cherry, strawberry and floral flavors.

Offers lovely, complex aromas of cherry, eucalyptus, licorice and tar.

GIACOMO CONTERNOBarolo Cerretta 2011

$330

$70

Features notes of cherry, strawberry, licorice, oak spice and mineral.

CONTERNO FANTINOBarolo Mosconi 2011

94

VIETTIBarolo Villero Riserva 2007

CASTELLO DI VERDUNONebbiolo Langhe 2013

Aromas of graphite and cherry lead to floral and spice flavors.

CERETTOBarolo Bricco Rocche 2011

$45

Round and harmonious, boasting pure cherry and berry flavors.

A delicate red, boasting floral, strawberry and raspberry flavors.

CASCINA ROCCALINIBarbaresco Roccalini 2012

94

MAURO SEBASTEBarolo Prap 2011

$165

Firm and salty, with cherry, strawberry, mineral and tobacco notes.
CASCINA ADELAIDEBarolo Baudana 2011

$90

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCOBarbaresco 2012

A cherry- and floral-scented red, with tar, leather and spice shadings.
CAVIOLABarolo Sottocastello di Novello 2010

94

PAOLO SCAVINOBarolo Bric dl Fiasc 2011

A pretty red, boasting floral, strawberry and raspberry flavors.

Intense and vibrant, offering cherry, floral, tea and underbrush flavors.
LUIGI BAUDANABarolo Baudana 2011

$95

$65

Tight and racy, this exhibits cherry, raspberry, floral and tar flavors.
G.D. VAJRABarolo Bricco delle Viole 2011

94

GIOVANNI ROSSOBarolo Cerretta 2011

Offers a mix of eucalyptus, cherry, leafy and tar aromas and flavors.
Licorice, leather, tar and tobacco flavors show in this balanced red.
SOTTIMANOBarbaresco Riserva 2010

$135

G.D. VAJRABarolo Albe 2011

Notes of rose, cherry, licorice and tar are the hallmarks of this firm red.
SCHIAVENZABarolo Prap 2011

94

GIUSEPPE RINALDIBarolo Tre Tine 2011

Tar, iron and eucalyptus notes complement the cherry flavors.

Expressive, with alluring cherry, strawberry, floral and mineral flavors.

GIUSEPPE RINALDIBarolo Brunate 2011

$52

Powerful, with vanilla, coconut, plum, black cherry and tar flavors.

A mix of cherry, wild rosemary and sage notes converge in this red.
GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO & FIGLIOBarolo Monprivato 2011

94

LUIGI PIRABarolo Margheria 2011

Muscular, with menthol and eucalyptus notes shading the cherry core.

A clean, focused style, showing balance, structure and complexity.

DAMILANOBarolo Cerequio 2010

$66

Cherry, raspberry and floral notes define this graceful red.

Rich and opulent, with cherry, raspberry, floral and sweet spice notes.
ELVIO COGNOBarolo Ravera 2011

94

CANTINA DEL PINOBarbaresco Albesani 2011

This silky red boasts flavors of rose, raspberry and strawberry.

Complex and maturing, with cherry, leather, tobacco and spice flavors.
MICHELE CHIARLOBarolo Cannubi 2011

PRICE

Dense and compact, delivering a core of cherry and plum flavors.

Vibrant and firmly structured, with woodsy aromas and a cherry core.
CASCINA LUISINBarolo Lon 2010

SCORE

Steely and toned, with a linear profile and gripping structure.

Bright, with cherry and strawberry flavors, this red is lacy and elegant.
AZELIABarolo Margheria 2011

WINE

This bright red bursts with blackberry and black currant flavors.
94

$70
PICO MACCARIOBarbera dAsti Lavignone 2014

Features intense flavors of blueberry, plum and licorice.

IA CA
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French Connection
100 GREAT VALUES

FROM THE NEW WORLD THAT FIND

INSPIRATION IN THE CLASSIC WINES OF FRANCE // BY KEITH NEWTON

SAM BREWSTER

or winemakers throughout the New World, France has long

supplied a template for what grapes to grow and what styles to
pursue. The reds and whites of Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Rhne
Valley and the Loire Valley have influenced winemaking in
regions as diverse as California and New Zealand, Washington
and Argentina.
New World wines will always maintain their distinctive personalities, yet the source of certain profilesclean, crisp Chardonnay,
for example, or pure, racy Sauvignon Blanccan be traced back to
one of the great French wine regions. By gaining greater knowledge
of their own terroir in recent years, New World vintners have been
better able to determine which regions and vineyards are best suited

to which grapes, giving them greater stylistic control in the cellar.

This is excellent news for value-seekers. It means that for those
who love, say, Chteauneuf-du-Pape or red Burgundy, yet cant
afford the steep prices, theres now a wider range of options to
choose from. Brambly fruitfilled Syrahs and Grenaches are being
made in Australia, California and Washington, while Oregon and
New Zealand are producing elegant, juicy Pinot Noirsall carrying wallet-friendly price tags. By focusing on the influence of France
for this selection of 100 great values from the New Worldall
rated 87 points or higher and priced at $20 or lesswe highlight
the many ways that New World winemakers have expanded their
range while keeping quality high and prices low.
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If you like Bordeaux

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Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2013
ARGENTINA Rich and ripe, this has good lift to
the dark plum, cherry tart and brambly avors,
with vibrant acidity.

89 | $15 | Bodegas y Viedos La

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gnon Yakima Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON

Focused, bright and generous, this has plum and
blackberry avors that show a minty edge on the
lively nish.

Argentina

89 | $13 | Odfjell | Cabernet Sauvignon

93 | $79 | Chteau Figeac | St.-

)%(%+*This packs a serious core

of g, blackberry and black currant fruit,
along with dark tea, ganache and smoldering tobacco leaf notes. Loamy tannins
carry the nish.

Maipo Valley Armador 2014 | CHILE Theres a

minerally component to the plush avors of cherry
tart, plum and raspberry, with a snappy nish.

89 | $17 | Six Prong | Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon Horse Heaven Hills 2013 | WASHINGTON

This lithe style features cinnamon-accented red
berry avors on a sleek frame, with ne tannins
underlining the nish.

89 | $15 | Substance | Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon Columbia Valley Cs 2013 | WASHINGTON

Lithe and rm, with green olive and black cherry

avors, hinting at licorice on the nish.

89 | $14 | Viu Manent | Cabernet Sau-

vignon Colchagua Valley Gran Reserva 2013

CHILE There are plenty of beefy notes in this rich
style, with dried berry and cherry tart avors.

88 | $18 | Graham Beck | Cabernet

Sauvignon Western Cape The Game Reserve
2013 | SOUTH AFRICA Mint and savory notes
91 | $15 | Columbia Crest | Cabernet
Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills H3 2013

WASHINGTON Supple, focused and distinctive,

with ripe plum, currant, sage and oral avors that
mingle harmoniously on the nish.

91 | $19 | MontGras | Cabernet

Sauvignon Maipo Valley Antu 2013 | CHILE

Suave and elegant, delivering avors of raspberry,
huckleberry and plum, with a mouthlling nish of
cream and spice.

91 | $20 | Snoqualmie | Cabernet

Sauvignon Columbia Valley Reserve 2012

WASHINGTON Fresh and expressive, showing

precision and grace, this offers pure cherry avors,
with hints of cedar and mint.

90 | $17 | Jean Bousquet | Cabernet

Sauvignon Tupungato Valley Reserve 2013

ARGENTINA Taut and minerally, offering muscular dried blackberry, roasted plum and dark cherry
avors, with black licorice and mocha notes.

90 | $15 | Chateau Ste. Michelle |

Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2013
WASHINGTON Fresh and expressive, deftly balanced and juicy, with raspberry and cherry avors
supported by hints of cinnamon and pepper.

90

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weave through the core of steeped plum and black

currant fruit, with a loamy hint.

88 | $20 | Louis M. Martini | Cabernet

Sauvignon Sonoma County 2013 | CALIFORNIA Offers a trim prole of dusty earth, dried
berry and cedary oak avors, complemented by
gravelly tannins.

88 | $14 | Piattelli | Cabernet Sauvignon

87 | $16 | Los Haroldos | Cabernet

Sauvignon Mendoza Reserva de Familia 2011

ARGENTINA This sanguine red features dried red

plum and berry avors, anked by plenty of savory
and spicy notes.

87 | $14 | Bodega Norton | Cabernet

Sauvignon Mendoza Barrel Select 2014
ARGENTINA Firm and fresh, showing peppery
notes to the avors of red currant and freshcrushed plum, with minerally components.

87 | $14 | Skyfall | Cabernet Sauvignon

Columbia Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON Spicy
tea leaf overtones weave through the core of
red berry and pomegranate avors, framed with
toasty oak.

87 | $14 | Los Vascos | Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon Colchagua 2014 | CHILE A savory style,

offering crushed plum and red currant avors, with
graphite and dried beef accents on the nish.

If You Like Chablis

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2013 | SOUTH AFRICA A grippy, loamy style,

with a tarry edge, this offers steeped black currant

and plum fruit at its core.

87 | $15 | David James | Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON

Polished and attractive, offering cherry and toast

avors, with cedar and savory hints.

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94 | $74 | Patrick Piuze |

$(%/+1#.+/ An intense,
vibrant style, featuring lemon cake,
apple, int and mineral avors, all supported by a racy structure. The aftertaste
evokes lemon, stone and seashore hints.

87 | $17 | Chateau Ste. Michelle | Chardonnay Columbia Valley Indian Wells 2014
WASHINGTON Bright and sleek, offering pretty

apple and oral avors that end on a creamy note.

87 | $19 | Chehalem | Chardonnay

Willamette Valley INOX Unoaked 2014

OREGON Theres a passion fruit edge to the

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87 | $11 | Barnard Griffin | Chardonnay

Columbia Valley 2014 | WASHINGTON Sleek

and tangy, offering nectarine and oral overtones

around a citrusy core, followed by a lively nish.

On the lighter side, with lemon curd and spice

avors on a sleek frame, picking up fresh green
g notes on the nish.

Washington Eve 2013 | WASHINGTON Fresh

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87 | $16 | Eikendal | Chardonnay Stel-

bright, oral style, with verbena and jasmine hints

leading to yellow apple and melon rind avors.

89 | $12 | Charles Smith | Chardonnay

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apple avors in this fresh and tangy white, which

nishes on a refreshing note.

87 | $15 | Neil Ellis | Chardonnay West-

89 | $11 | Chateau Ste. Michelle | Char-

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94 | $62 | ric Texier | Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2012

This offers loads of warm currant conture,
roasted plum and blackberry pte de fruit
avors, liberally wrapped with roasted alder
and juniper notes.

New World Chardonnay

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and appealing, with apple, pear and cinnamon

spice overtones, lingering on the lively nish.

88 | $12 | Kamiak | Chardonnay Colum-

bia Valley Unoaked 2014 | WASHINGTON

Fresh and lively, this sleek white offers peach and
grapefruit avors, nishing with oral notes.

88 | $18 | Kunde Estate | Chardonnay

Sonoma Valley 2014 | CALIFORNIA Clean and

juicy, centered on tangerine and nectarine avors,
with lively acidity and touches of peach and apple.
Yakima Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON Light and

South Africa

tangy, with tangerine peel and apricot overtones

to the pear avors, lingering on the nish.

88 | $15 | NxNW | Chardonnay Columbia

Valley The Explorer Series 2014 | WASHINGTON This tangy white brims with lemon peel

90 | $20 | Groundwork | Grenache Cen-

tral Coast 2013 | CALIFORNIA Soft and supple,

87 | $13 | Sileni | Chardonnay Hawkes

accented pear and oral avors that glide into

the polished nish.

Bay Cellar Selection 2014 | NEW ZEALAND

Spicy pear, apple and peach avors feature a whiff
of apple blossom, with a juicy nish.

88 | $17 | Vondeling | Chardonnay Voor-

87 | $14 | Three Rivers | Chardonnay

Paardeberg 2014 | SOUTH AFRICA Refreshing,

with white peach, plantain and apple avors carried by a light almond note through the nish.

87 | $14 | A to Z Wineworks | Chardonnay Oregon Unoaked 2014 | OREGON Bright,

crisp and appealing, with juicy pear and citrus
avors, nishing with polish.

87 | $15 | Aireld | Chardonnay Yakima

Valley 2014 | WASHINGTON Fresh and vibrant,

this features lively apple, oral and lime notes,

with a lingering nish.

87 | $20 | Via Arboleda | Chardonnay

Aconcagua Coast 2014 | CHILE Green apple

and ripe citrus avors mix easily in this juicy white,

followed by a snappy nish.

87 | $16 | Benziger | Chardonnay

Sonoma County 2013 | CALIFORNIA Fresh,

with a zingy citrus edge to the spicy grapefruit

and tangerine avors, ending clean and lively.

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layers of boysenberry and raspberry conture, with

lively anise, black tea and roasted apple wood notes.

Columbia Valley Steel 2014 | WASHINGTON

Light and tangy, with pretty pear and oral avors
on a zippy frame.

If You Like
Chteauneuf-du-Pape

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with oral raspberry and spiced cinnamon aromas

leading to rich, vibrant avors of cherry, licorice
and smoky herb.

90 | $20 | Syncline | Subduction Red

Columbia Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON Supple

and eshy, this is broad in texture, brimming with
blueberry, plum and white pepper avors.

89 | $20 | Bonny Doon | Grenache

Monterey County The Wine Formerly Known
as Clos de Gilroy 2014 | CALIFORNIA Crisp
and lively, yet jammed with fruit, offering bright
cherry and raspberry notes, plus grilled fennel and
cracked pepper.

89 | $16 | Hogue | Syrah Columbia Valley

Genesis 2012 | WASHINGTON Dark and spicy,
with a vegetal edge to the vivid blackberry avors,
showing some transparency on the nish.

89 | $13 | Lone Birch | Syrah Yakima

Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON Fresh, vital and

expressive, this exhibits open-textured cherry and
blackberry avors on a polished frame.

89 | $20 | 3 Rings | Shiraz Barossa Valley

2014 | AUSTRALIA Cedary up front, this has an

appealing layer of smoke and spice to the ripe,
bright cherry and raspberry fruit avors.

BLAINE HARRINGTON/GETTY IMAGES

88 | $12 | Lone Birch | Chardonnay

91 | $20 | Cederberg | Shiraz Cederberg

2012 | SOUTH AFRICA This has heft, offering

New World Syrah

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87 | $13 | dArenberg | The Stump Jump

Red McLaren Vale 2012 | AUSTRALIA This is
appealingly rustic, showing talc and spice avors
that mingle with wild berry and peppery earth
notes, with slightly chalky tannins.

borough Jane Hunter 2013 | NEW ZEALAND

Vibrant, juicy red fruit avors are accented by an
orange peel hint, with spice, black tea and fresh
forest oor notes.

87 | $20 | Domaine de la Terre Rouge

90 | $20 | Planet Oregon | Pinot Noir

Syrah California Les Ctes De LOuest 2013

CALIFORNIA This solid Syrah features good
structure, with notes of dusty berry and smoky
dried herb.

87 | $15 | Marvelous | Red Label

Western Cape 2013 | SOUTH AFRICA Soft

and caressing in feel, with light white pepper,
warm cherry paste and cinnamon notes gliding
along together.

87 | $12 | Paringa | Shiraz South Australia 2014 | AUSTRALIA Firm, with some rustic
A u s t ra l i a

88 | $20 | Chateau Tanunda | Shiraz

90 | $18 | Hunters | Pinot Noir Marl-

appeal to the brambly berry, cherry and plum

avors, showing a whiff of tar and pepper.

Oregon 2014 | OREGON Dark and spicy, this is

sleek in texture, with clove and white pepper overtones to the focused blackberry and plum fruit.

89 | $14 | Castle Rock | Pinot Noir Willa-

mette Valley 2014 | OREGON Fresh and lively,

with cinnamon-accented cherry and pomegranate
avors playing against ne-grained tannins.

89 | $18 | Clos Henri | Pinot Noir Marlborough Petit Clos 2014 | NEW ZEALAND
Floral and fragrant, with dried lavender and rose
petal nuances that lead to bright, juicy avors of
wild strawberry and cherry.

87 | $16 | Waterbrook | Syrah Columbia

Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON Lithe and appeal-

New World Pinot Noir

ing, with a juicy texture and ripe blackberry avors,

picking up a pepper note on the nish.

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Barossa Grand Barossa 2012 AUSTRALIA

Dark and dense, with tar and licorice notes wrapped

around ripe black cherry and pepper avors.

88 | $15 | Concha y Toro | Casillero de

Diablo Devils Collection Reserva Casablanca

Valley Red 2014 | CHILE Medium-bodied, with

crisp dried berry and cherry avors accented by

white pepper notes.

88 | $20 | Copan | Syrah Mendocino

County Tous Ensemble 2013 | CALIFORNIA

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88 | $20 | Elderton | Shiraz Barossa

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88 | $14 | Man Vintners | Syrah-

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2014 | SOUTH AFRICA This features a mix of
black cherry, licorice, tobacco and dark tea notes
allied to a light leathery spine.

88 | $12 | Morse Code | Shiraz South

Australia 2014 | AUSTRALIA Dened by white

pepper and mineral details up front, with balanced,
focused cherry and currant avors that nish rm.

88 | $14 | Shoofly | Shiraz South Aus-

tralia 2014 | AUSTRALIA A dried lavender note

TOP LEFT: AUSTRALIAN SCENICS/GETTY IMAGES; RIGHT: CSP_GAVPHOTO/AGE FOTOSTOCK

If You Like
Red Burgundy

adds an effortlessness to the polished blackberry

and blueberry avors, lingering on the nish.

88 | $20 | Zontes Footstep | Shiraz

Barossa Valley Baron Von Nemesis 2013
AUSTRALIA Toast and vanilla avors work

gracefully with the plump cherry and plum notes,

nishing with clove-scented spices.

87 | $19 | Boomtown | Syrah Columbia

Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON A taut, focused,

lively style, with blackberry and oral avors set

against ne tannins.

87 | $15 | Chateau Ste. Michelle | Syrah

Columbia Valley 2013 | WASHINGTON Dark

and ripe, with an open texture to the cherry, blackberry and meat avors, coming together smoothly.

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RED BURGUNDY

94 | $80 | Louis Latour | Gevrey$)!.0%* Opulent and dense,

delivering black cherry, raspberry and
earth avors. The tannins sneak up, exerting considerable grip on the nish. Fresh,
long and concentrated.

89 | $20 | Crater Rim | Pinot Noir

Canterbury 2014 | NEW ZEALAND This

blends cherry, raspberry and cranberry avors
with toasted spice and dried herb notes, all on
an elegant frame.

89 | $20 | Duck Pond | Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2014 | OREGON Crisp in texture
and generous in avor, with dark berry and plum
notes on a polished frame.

89 | $19 | Erath | Pinot Noir Oregon 2014

OREGON Bright and lively, this taut version
features blackberry and cream avors playing
against nubby tannins.

88 | $20 | David Hill | Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012 | OREGON Firm, with chewy
tannins around a core of black currant and plum
avors, pointing into the expressive nish.

88 | $15 | Bodega del Desierto | Pinot

Noir Patagonia 25 2014 | ARGENTINA A taut,
minerally style, with dried berry and roasted plum
avors that feature tarry accents.

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Oregon 2013 | OREGON Light and sleek, with

BENCHMARK SANCERRE

pretty toasted coconut notes weaving through

raspberry and watermelon avors.

90 | $40 | Grard Fiou | Sancerre

88 | $14 | Hahn | Pinot Noir Monterey

Racy and pure, with a hint of shortbread

gilding the white peach, jicama and
gooseberry avors. A lovely verbena
edge adds a racy feel to the nish.

County 2014 | CALIFORNIA Intense, with

savory earth- and herb-scented dried berry and

cedar avors. Very satisfying, if rustic and chewy.

Terroir de Silex Le Grand Roc 2012

88 | $20 | Silvan Ridge | Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley 2013 | OREGON Light and

aromatic, with peppery, oral overtones to the
gentle red berry and red pepper avors.

Blanc California 2014 | CALIFORNIA Key lime,

melon and lime zest avors are crisp and juicy on a
light, clean body. Intense, balanced and refreshing.

88 | $10 | Kono | Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough 2014 | NEW ZEALAND Succulent
peach and nectarine avors have a squirt of fresh
lime juice, smooth and refreshing, with highlights
of white owers.

87 | $16 | Gouguenheim | Pinot Noir

Mendoza Valle Escondido 2014 | ARGENTINA

Features hints of lushness to the savory and wellspiced avors of cherry tart, dried raspberry and
vanilla bean.

88 | $15 | St. Francis | Sauvignon Blanc

Sonoma County 2014 | CALIFORNIA Smooth,

87 | $20 | Innocent Bystander | Pinot

Noir Yarra Valley 2014 | AUSTRALIA Shows

91 | $18 | Casey Flat Ranch | Sauvignon Blanc Capay Valley 2014 | CALIFORNIA

peppery spice, earth and dried oral accents to

the plum and cola avors, with robust tannins.

Succulent peach and apricot avors are ripe, with

accents of lemongrass, thyme and white owers.

87 | $17 | Rainstorm | Pinot Noir Oregon

90 | $15 | Buitenverwachting | Sauvi-

gnon Blanc Constantia Bayten 2015 | SOUTH

AFRICA Pure, showing honeysuckle, wet straw

orange peel and chalk adding to the cherry and

raspberry avors, lingering gently.

and kiwifruit avors, with a long note of lemon pulp.

86 | $16 | Battle Creek | Pinot Noir

90 | $12 | Pomelo | Sauvignon Blanc

California 2014 | CALIFORNIA Lithe and graceful, with fragrant orange blossom, ruby grapefruit
and white peach avors that are fresh and lively.

89 | $17 | Ara | Sauvignon Blanc Marl-

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appealing, with oral, fresh hay and lemon thyme

aromatics adding complexity to the vibrant lemon,
lime and green apple core.

88 | $14 | Geyser Peak | Sauvignon

Crisp and lively, this tautly structured Pinot plays

savory, earthy notes against harmonious red berry
and cherry pie avors.

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Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2014

87 | $19 | Eugene Wine Cellars | Pinot

Noir Willamette Valley b2 2013 | OREGON

If You Like Sancerre

89 | $14 | Save Sea | Sauvignon Blanc

WASHINGTON Light and crisp, with apple and

thyme avors on a polished frame, lingering gently.

with talcum powder and white pepper overtones

to the bead of raspberry and white chocolate.

Oregon Unconditional 2013 | OREGON Light

and easygoing, with a nice transparency to the
delicate cherry and pear avors.

and bold, with mouthwatering grapefruit, green

apple and lime avors, showing purity, focus and
refreshment.

88 | $11 | Chateau Ste. Michelle |

87 | $20 | Boedecker | Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2013 | OREGON Brash and lively,

2013 | OREGON Light and sleek, with hints of

89 | $13 | Riverlore | Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough 2014 | NEW ZEALAND Crisp

juicy and balanced, with a note of lemongrass

leading to a core of refreshing melon and lemon
avors that show a touch of peach.

87 | $11 | Concha y Toro | Sauvignon

Blanc Chile Casillero del Diablo Reserva

2015 | CHILE Grapefruit and lemongrass avors

ll this zesty, well-structured white, with dried

savory herb notes on the fresh nish.

87 | $10 | 14 Hands | Sauvignon Blanc

Washington 2014 | WASHINGTON Light and

crisp, offering pretty pear, melon and oral avors
on a lively frame.

87 | $10 | Barnard Griffin | Fum Blanc

Columbia Valley Dry 2014 | WASHINGTON

borough Pathway Single Estate 2014 | NEW

ZEALAND A zingy acidity highlights the passion

Bright and sleek, with tangy balance and refreshing herbal overtones to the pear and melon fruit,
nishing with zip.

fruit, lime and grapefruit notes in this intense,

focused and refreshing white.

87 | $10 | Hogue | Sauvignon Blanc

89 | $16 | Brancott | Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough Flight Song 2014 | NEW ZEALAND Lime and grapefruit avors show fresh

Columbia Valley 2014 | WASHINGTON Taut

and focused, this leaner style emphasizes almond
and nutmeg notes over overt fruit, nishing with
citrus and apple avors.

sweet pea hints, with bright, clean acidity and

plenty of intensity.

89 | $15 | Columbia Crest | Sauvignon

Blanc Horse Heaven Hills H3 2014 | WASHINGTON Light and refreshing, sleek and open-

New World Sauvignon Blanc

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textured, offering a harmonious mix of pear, oral,

green herb and spice avors.

89 | $15 | Fairview | Sauvignon Blanc

Darling 2015 | SOUTH AFRICA Shows nice

crackling energy, with lively int, gooseberry and
chive notes and a mouthwatering nish.

89 | $17 | Mud House | Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough 2014 | NEW ZEALAND Tangy Key

lime, grapefruit, mango and bergamot avors are
aromatic and juicy, on a light, refreshing body.

89 | $15 | Quivira | Sauvignon Blanc Dry

Creek Valley 2014 | CALIFORNIA Citrus and

melon avors show a passion fruit note in this vivid
white, with spice and lemon verbena details.

Wa s h i n g t o n

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RISK REWARD
JEFF AMES CHARTS HIS OWN ROUTE TO WINEMAKING SUCCESS

BY AARON
ROMANO
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
JESSAMYN HARRIS

fter logging nearly 200,000

miles driving throughout Napa
Valley, Jeff Ames green Toyota
pickup isnt quite ready for the
junkyard, but its close. The stereo recently died, taking with
it Ames favorite 80s mixtape.
But despite his friends pleas that
he get rid of the vehicle, Ames remains attached to the first truck he
bought with his cellar hands salary.
It has become a memento of his beginnings as a winemaker in the region. That truck and I have been in
a lot of vineyards and it has never let
me down, says Ames. It may sound
weird, but I just wouldnt feel right

Ames with his wife, Brittany, daughter, Kaley

Elizabeth, and dog, The Bear, in his home
vineyard on Howell Mountain.

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about ever selling it.

In just over a decade,
Ames, 43, has become one
of Napas rising stars,
running his own label,
Rudius, and working as
winemaker for top Cabernet producer Tor. He is part
of a new breed of winemakers that includes his mentor
Thomas Brown, Faillas
Ehren Jordan and others
who learned wine hands-on
without the aid of formal
winemaking education.
Harvests and tastings
were Ames classrooms. He
likes the fact that he didnt
go to school for his vocation, arguing that too
much knowledge can Above: Ames purchased a new house on Howell Mountain before the 2014 harvest, complete with 1.7 acres of Cabernet vines for use in Rudius.
sometimes get in the way, Below: Ames Toyota truck is a symbol of his time in California wine. He bought it with his first paycheck as a cellar hand, and still uses it today.
making one feel compelled
to use it even when unnecessary. The model that
was set before me was to
RUDIUS
get big, rich fruit, plush flaSCORE WINE
PRICE
vors, and not fine or filter
95
Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros
$48
Hyde Vineyard 2013
if you dont have to, he
93
Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
$128
says. Thats where it starts.
Knockmore 2012
Thats how I make wines.
93
Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena
$88
Ames grew up splitting
Panek Vineyard 2012
his time between divorced
91
Mourvdre Sonoma Valley
$48
Bedrock Vineyard 2012
parents, living in Mem91
Syrah Walla Walla ValleyOregon
$58
phis, Tenn., and Mobile,
Stoney Vine Vineyard 2013
Ala. For a time, Ames was
TOR
SCORE WINE
PRICE
sure hed follow in his fa96
Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
$150
thers footsteps as an attorTierra Roja Vineyard 2012
ney, but shifted his focus to
95
Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
$150
education as an undergradBeckstoffer To Kalon 2012
uate, and later a grad stu93
Chardonnay Sonoma Valley
$60
Durell Vineyard Wene Clone 2013
dent, at Memphis State.
92
Grenache California
$44
Two years prior to arriving
Rock Cuve Cooper 2013
in Napa, he had never
tasted wine.
I grew up Southern Baptist and went to an Episcopal high school.
box in his closet. He eavesdropped on meetings with distributors
Alcohol wasnt around, he says with a subtle Southern drawl.
and sat in on as many tastings as he could.
Short of money in the summer of 1997, just before his senior
Before finishing his masters degree in education, Ames sent his
year of college, Ames applied for a job at a liquor store down the
rsum to hundreds of West Coast wineries. He received only two
street from his house in East Memphis. When the manager asked
responses, one of which came from Lynn Penner-Ash, winemaker
him what he knew about wine, he replied that his mom sometimes
for Rex Hill Winery in Willamette Valley, Ore. Penner-Ash exdrank Sutter Home White Zinfandel from magnums. He gave me
plained that she couldnt guarantee Ames a job, but if he came out,
this look and asked, What else? jokes Ames. Fortunately for
she would give him an interview. Ames took his chances, packed
Ames, the owner of the store liked him enough to hire him.
up his car and drove cross-country to Oregon.
Ames was captivated by his job and began setting aside chunks
Penner-Ash was so shocked when Ames actually showed up that
of his paycheck to purchase wine, stashing treasured bottles of
she hired him on the spot. My first day, I spent the afternoon unCaymus, Duckhorn and Silver Oak Cabernet in a small wooden
loading empty barrels from a tractor-trailer, and I loved it, says

Selected Recent Releases From Jeff Ames

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"For all the wines I make, I of course want them to all taste great. but i also want
them to taste like where they came from." JEFF AMES
Ames. From then on, he knew winemaking was his calling.
Ames. Kenward disagrees. Looking back, the wines that weve
Unfortunately, Penner-Ash couldnt keep him on full-time, so
made together have proven that maybe the gamble wasnt really a
after his first harvest he returned to Memphis to work at the liquor
gamble after all, he says.
store again. Undeterred, Ames saved money and drove across the
As winemaker for Tor, Ames now has the luxury of working
country again, this time to Napa.
with some of Napa Valleys best vineyards, including Oakvilles
Ames arrived in Napa in April 1999. I had no bed, no couch,
Beckstoffer To Kalon and Howell Mountains Cimarossa VineI slept on egg-crate foam for the first six months before my mom
yards. And hes a stickler for making sure the wines express their
visited and bought me a futon, he says. But Ames insists hes alsite foremost, rather than a particular winemaking style.
ways been comfortable living modestly, an arrangement that allows
For all the wines I make, I of course want them to all taste great.
him to focus on work.
Ames took on various jobs, from freelance wine writing to online wine auctions
to working in tasting rooms. He started
attending tasting groups and wine pick-up
parties. My natural tendency is to be not
super social and outgoing, he admits.
Still, whatever interpersonal shortcomings he thought he had dont show today;
hes effusively chatty, with a mild-natured
disposition that makes him easy to like.
His fortunes improved when he met
Thomas Brown, then the winemaker for
Turley, at a party. Ames, itching to get
back into production, learned that Brown
was looking to leave Turley. Brown
brought on Ames to work with several of
his projects for the 2001 harvest, including stints at Schrader, Maybach, Outpost
and Tor.
Getting that first winery job is hard
because nobody wants to train you, says
Ames, expressing gratitude that Brown
took a chance on him despite his lack of
experience. Ames worked harvest, focusing all of his efforts on learning how to
make wine.
I saw Jeff working his butt off, recalls
Tor Kenward, of Tor Kenward Family
Wines. We were experimenting with
whole-cluster for our Rhne wines, but
didnt have the right equipment, so Jeff
did it completely by hand and foot. [He]
nearly broke his back trying to make
those wines.
Things started falling into place for
Ames in 2003. After just two harvests,
he took over as Tors full-time winemaker, at age 31. It was a gamble, but
all things are, says Kenward. Once Ames
got his chance, he worked hard, moved
quickly and never looked back. If I were Ames with Tor Kenward, one of the upstart vintners early winemaking mentors in California. Impressed by Ames work
Tor, I wouldnt have kept me on, jokes ethic, Kenward offered him a full-time job as Tors winemaker, exposing his protg to some of the states best vineyards.
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But I also want them to taste like where they came

from, he says, citing Howell Mountain Cabernets
distinctive grip and structure, Eastern Oakville
hillside Cabernets lead pencil and earthy profile,
St. Helena Panek Cabernets fruit-forwardness,
and the cool-climate characteristics of Farella
Cabernet from Coombsville.
But Ames ambitions extended beyond Cabernet. I always wanted to make Rhne-based wine
that had some earthiness and funk, he says. During his first years as a cellar hand in Napa, unable
to afford the wines he was making, he stocked up
on 1998 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape
for $33 a bottle. The inspiration he gleaned from
this and similar wines convinced him to start
Rudius in 2005 with varieties he lovedGrenache
and Syrahwithout breaking the bank on Napa
grapes or new oak.
Ames bet the house to start Rudius, literally,
selling his home in downtown Napa to help fund
the start-up. People thought I was crazy, but I told
them I didnt come to Napa to own a house, I came
here to make wine, he says.
Producing fewer than 2,000 cases annually,
Rudius is named for the wooden sword that was
presented to a gladiator when freed by the emperor of Rome. To Ames, the symbol represents
his mission to make wine in his own style. He
uses whole-cluster fermentations whenever possible for his site-specific Rhne wines, creating
distinctive, bold bottlings that reflect the terroir,
whether mixed blocks from the 100-plus-year-old
Bedrock Vineyard in Sonoma or Grenache from Despite his busy schedule, Ames tries to spend as much time as possible walking with his wife and
various sites along the northern coast of Califor- daughter in the vineyards. His recently released Kaley Elizabeth cuve is a tribute to his tight-knit family.
nia. His Cabernets from the label can show power
and finesse, balancing rich fruit with deep, supple textures and
Ames has also branched into Washington, consulting for Va Piano
fine-grained tannins.
Winery in Walla Walla Valley, a brand he has been working with
Between Tor and Rudius, Ames has achieved 14 classic ratings on
since 2007. The winemaker is looking to buy a property in the rethe Wine Spectator 100-point scale, and dozens more outstanding
gion for Rudius. His 2013 Stoney Vine Syrah from the area sources
ratings. And the impressive scores keep coming. Ames, however,
its fruit from Sleight of Hand Cellars vintner Trey Busch, a friend
remains humble. Brown told him to think of winemaking as a bell
who owns a vineyard in the Rocks region near Cayuse. Ames says
curve. Heres the peak, Ames motions, leaving one hand hovering
he has a pretty good grasp of how California Syrah evolves in barrel,
at eye level. Im right about here, he says, dropping his other hand
but saw the Walla Walla Syrah go through crazy phases of good, bad,
about as low as it can go. At the beginning, you have to recognize
worse and amazing. When we bottled it and it tasted exactly how
that youre always trying to get to the top of the bell curve.
I wanted it to, I have to admit it put a big smile on my face.
His profile is steadily rising. Recently, he has displayed a deft
Despite his far-ranging endeavors, Ames is careful not to stretch
hand with distinctive, richly flavored Chardonnay, releasing exhimself too thin, allowing himself ample time to walk the vineyards
amples from Tor and Rudius that eschew new oak and employ nawith his wife, Brittany, and their young daughter, Kaley Elizabeth.
tive yeast fermentations to highlight the vineyard. I have always
Ames calls Brittany the brains behind Rudius, and he recently retold folks that I could pay less for fruit and just nuke it with oak,
leased his Kaley Elizabeth cuve, dense, rustic and built to age. Ames
but I want them to taste the vineyard, not barrels.
hopes to toast his daughter with it when shes older.
Ames has also lent his know-how to a handful of newcomers in
Before the 2014 harvest, Ames gave Rudius a new home, purchasNapa Valley, including Anthem, a brand with an estate vineyard
ing a house with a 1.7-acre Cabernet vineyard on Howell Mountain.
on Mt. Veeder that recently notched two outstanding ratings; NemI cant believe I have a vineyard around my house now, says Ames,
erever, a vineyard and winery on the Oakville Cross Road, right
adding that the only thing missing is his own winery. Otherwise he
across from Groth; and Boich Family, run by John and Marcella
has everything he needs to make wine, including his trusty pickup.
Boich, who purchased the Wall Vineyard on Mt. Veeder.
I love that truck, he says. I wonder if I can be buried in it.
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UNDER THE

VOLC NO

California vintner Michael

Thomas makes a discovery
for wine archaeology in the
ashes of Vesuvius
By Ben ODonnell
Photographs by Chris Leschinsky

Michael Thompson uses his

21st-century wine knowledge to help
understand wine in antiquity.

arvest is a busy time of year

in Campania, the sunny,
fertile region south of
Rome. As a countrysides worth of
vineyards are picked, grapes flood the
wineries. But first, wine from the previous vintage must be hauled off to
warehouses for shipping.
In one of those warehouses, located
in a settlement called Oplontis, a man
named Lucius Crassius Tertius does
business. As the wine-laden carts trundle in, Crassius workers scramble to
fill up terra cotta amphoraemore
than 1,200 of them, the equivalent of
3,300 cases of wine.
But then things take a turn for the
supernatural: The sky begins raining
ash and rock all up and down the Bay
of Naples. Fifty-four men, women and
children take refuge in a storeroom at
Crassius place, where they can see
boats still tacking around in the bay
a way to safety. But no boat arrives, as
Vesuvius roils, and then it is too late.
So went the vintage of 79 A.D.
Nearly 2,000 years later, archaeologist Michael Thomas, co-director of
the Center for the Study of Ancient
Italy at the University of Texas, Austin, began excavating at Oplontis, located less than 2 miles northwest of
Pompeii.
In 2011, his Oplontis Project team
wrapped up its dig at Oplontis Villa
A (better known to tourists as Villa
Poppaea), which, with its extravagant
entertainment spaces and supersize
swimming pool, was obviously a pleasure palace. The Bay of Naples was
the Hamptons of its era, where Romes
wealthy merchants, senators and
other elite summered.
The team then turned its attention

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to Oplontis Villa B. Even though Villa B

had first been excavated in the 1970s and
80s, no one knew quite what to make of it,
except that the impressively large yet mostly
unadorned structure was almost certainly
not a villa at all.
A two-story peristyle surrounds a courtyard at the heart of the complex, leading
into more than 70 storerooms and modest
apartments. The clues left behind under the
ash didnt seem to add up to anything terribly specific: amphora shards all over the
courtyard; 27 different species of hay; literally a ton of pomegranates.
And in one chamber, the remains of 54
souls unlucky enough to be ashore when
the cloud of ash above the volcano billowed
so high that it collapsed on itself, spewing
forth a 1,000 F pyroclastic flow moving at
300 miles per hour.
Though the dirty work of digging at
Oplontis B will finish this summer, it will
take several more years to process everything the team has turned up. But in these
past few years, the purpose of the mysterious villa has come more into focus: It appears to have been a hub of the wine trade.
homas, now 49, brought no particular expertise in the study of
old wine from his nearly two decades of excavating in Italy (beyond a fondness for rustic Chianti). In addition to being project co-director, he is a masonry
analyst and all-around dirt guy.
But in 2007, Thomas purchased San Saba
Vineyard and winery in Californias MonAbove: Evidence of more than 1,200 amphorae was eventually unearthed at Oplontis B, sufficient to
terey region from his step-father and store 8,000 gallons of wine. Right: Thomas with fellow archaeologists Ivo van der Graaff (center) and
launched the Wrath label, producing Pinot Paul Wilkinson in the courtyard; deeper excavation has helped illuminate what once went on there.
Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon
8,000 gallons of liquid. The archaeologists ascertained that corks
Blanc, learning the ropes year by year.
that plugged some of the amphoraea rare discovery, preserved in
At 64 and heartily bearded, Thomas looks equally the parts of
the ashretained traces of wine residue on the interior side; some
vintner and archaeologist. But he fell into both vocations by aciof these vessels must have been stacked upside-down and were full
dent. Born and raised in Dallas, Thomas graduated from art history
at the time of the eruption.
to black diamonds, skiing Vail during the day and working nights
And then there were the little things we started to find, says
as a doorman/bouncer at a club where the manager rewarded him
Thomas. Ruts in the road entering the courtyard match the axle
in cash for confiscating fake IDs (15 in one nightthat was my
span of Roman oxcarts used to move goods in quantity. The draft
record). Deciding to return to his art studies, Thomas was told by
animals would be rewarded with a hay snack. It began to look like
one grad-school interviewer that thered be a spot for him if he
a lot of activity went on in that yard.
wanted to study antiquities, a road that would lead to Rome and
No dolia (earthenware fermenting vats) have been discovered at
field work.
Villa B to indicate that wine was made on the premises. But RoBut only as pieces fell into place at Oplontis did Thomas find
mans employed the culleus, a big leather sack, basically a cow sewn
himself drawn into the study of ancient wine.
up, to transport wine over land by cart. And to tan and refurbish
Sifting through the evidence at Villa B, the team found more
their cullei, couriers used pomegranates.
and more links to wine. There were not 400 amphorae, as the first
Each sack could fill 20 amphorae, waterproofed with pine resin.
excavators had thought, but more than 1,200, all in the style the
Were so paranoid about what goes into wine, notes Thomas
Romans used primarily for transporting wine, enough to hold nearly
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COURTESY OF MICHAEL THOMAS

wryly. Roman wine had leather in it, had resin in it, had pitch in
it, amphora god-knows-what. Its just crazy to think what went
through a Roman wine before it made it to a cup.
But why would the Campanians deliver 8,000 gallons of wine to
a storage facility situated two-thirds of a mile from the shore and
fill up containers that each required two men to carry?
It turned out they didnt. One of the researchers dropped coring
tubes into the earth behind Oplontis B to take soil samples, and
up came ancient ocean sediment: In A.D. 79, Villa B was right on
the water. Indeed, a closer study of the skeletons revealed theyd
been dusted with sand. In the carnage, someone had lost a seal ring
bearing the inscription L.CRAS.TERT. on one side. On the back
of the band, theres a little engraving of a wine cup.
Now, a picture emerged of Oplontis B in the flush of activity,
just before the world went dark. Villas small and grand grew winegrapes, to be sent off to crushpads. Archaeologists in Pompeii partnered in the 90s with Campanian winery Mastroberardino on a

project that revealed even the existence of vineyards inside the

city, in the gardens of the houses of Pompeii, says Piero Mastroberardino. (Mastroberardino has studied and replanted 15 such vineyards among the ruins to replicate how they once grew; they yield
a wine of indigenous varieties called Villa dei Misteri.)
With harvest on the horizon, oxcarts were hustling finished Campanian wine from area wineries into the Oplontis courtyard, where
cullei were drained into amphorae. If he was indeed the boss, Crassius
had his men take the big jars out on a dock behind the complex to
be loaded onto boats for export. The presence of a few amphorae
in Cretan and Spanish designs suggests Oplontis B was in the import business as well. Where did the local wine go? Perhaps up the
coast to Rome, the most populous and thirstiest city in the world.
No one had previously considered that Oplontis B might be a
bottling and shipping center in a millennia-old three-tier systemor that the Romans would even have had such a system
because no complex of this type had ever been discovered. But to
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an American winemaker, it made perfect sense.

If you think about the whole process, if I
put it in the context of what we do at Wrath,
were faced with the problem every winery with
a facility has: You cant have barrels full of wine
and then bring in your new harvest. You have
to get that stuff out, so you bottle it, explains
Thomas. Theyre faced with the same dilemma. If harvest is coming, it makes sense that
theres so much wine potentially passing
through Oplontis B.
Its one part of a big picture that someone
who runs the gantlet of todays wine industry
might piece together. As John Clarke, Thomas
onetime teacher and current Oplontis co-director, says of Thomas, Hes been able to form
new hypotheses by comparing our evidence
with modern procedures.

Were so paranoid [today] about

what goes into wine. Roman wine
had leather in it, resin in it, pitch
in it ... god knows what.
Michael Thomas

iterature tells us that the Roman rich

could be notorious label-drinkers.
Shortly before the eruption, observer
Pliny the Elder wrote that Campanian wine
had gained considerable credit more recently,
but how much of this cow-sack stuff did a Bay
aristocrat drink? Maybe hes like, For lunch
Ill open our own wine, and then when we have
our big dinner party, Ill open the grand cru
Falernian, Thomas surmises.
The Eternal Citys 1 million gullets, on the
other hand, could happily accommodate wine
Thomas characterizes thusly: My guess is because of Vesuvius [volcanic soil] and high-yielding vineyards, Campania could make a good
quality wine at probably a lower price, at higher
volumes. So it made it an attractive wine.
What type of wine might be comparable in
todays culture? Thomas laughs: Can I say
Monterey?
In the nine years since Thomas and his
mother, Barbara, purchased the 72-acre San
Saba Vineyard (68 acres planted), Wrath Wines
(the name is from Led Zeppelin, not John
Steinbeck) has consistently released some of
the Monterey appellations highest-scoring bottles, regularly in the 90- to 93-point range.
When he took on management of the California winery, Thomas was already splitting
his time between Italy, Austin and New York
City, but he was determined to elevate Wrath
to the rank of its neighbors in the more rarefied Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, literally
across the street.
Part of the philosophy was that we had a
chip on our shoulder, says Thomas. Were
Monterey, we werent considered a great vineyard before.

Winemaker Sabrine Rodems shares Thomas enthusiasm for envelope-pushing projects, like the archaeologically
inspired vinification of wine in earthenware dolia, and keeps things on track at Wrath year-round.

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Wrath Wines estate vineyard, called San Saba, grows Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah, as well as some new plantings of the Campanian grape Falanghina.

Along with Sabrine Rodems, his adventuresome winemaker,

Thomas has made a wine laboratory of Wrath. One series of Wrath
wines pairs different, complementary clones of a certain grape
in the blend. Theres also a Pinot Noir made with 100 percent
whole-cluster fermentation, a bit unusual for California, but, reasons Thomas, My guess is the Romans only did whole-cluster.
The Romans would have seen the handiwork of the Fates all
over Thomas next wine project. In 2012, he planted at San Saba
two rows of the Campanian white grape Falanghina. Some believe
the Romans made it into the vaunted Falernian; today it refreshes
archaeologists laboring in the southern Italian sun. No one else in
California had tried growing much of it; he and Rodems didnt
know if the warm-climate variety would thrive or even ripen at
San Saba. And as longtime vineyard consultant Steve McIntyre
would discover, The bees love it. And thats a real bummer!
Before the Falanghinas first bearing vintage, 2014, Rodems had
seen a vendor displaying a dolium at a trade show. Why not ferment
the ancient grape in a 500-liter clay vat, as the Romans did? The
oxidative winemaking style would dampen the peal of acidity, as
would fermenting the wine on its skins for two weeks and bottling
it unfined and unfiltered (the 2014 rated 88 points and costs $29).
What at one point seemed like two totally disparate careers,
says Thomas, have sort of come together in this wine and at Villa
B in Oplontis.
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Thomas published his most recent conclusions in the 2015 Journal of Roman Archaeology (Vol. 28), in a paper titled Oplontis B:
A center for the distribution and export of Vesuvian wine. In
May of this year, he returns to the site; one of his hopes is to find
preserved organic grape material that might be used to identify
the type of wine the Campanians were making. If it came back
Falanghina, no one would believe me, he laughs.
Already, though, the formerly obscure site without any fancy
frescoes or fountains has added a page to the greater saga of wine
history. Villa B is this massive document of the Roman world thats
been left untouched for many years, a document on how trade happens and how wine moves around, on the value of consumption,
on what Pompeii means in the wine world. Its speaking to the
tastes and needs of the Roman Empire near its apex.
Thomas ruminates on his place in it all. Archaeology and winemaking, Ive always said the common threadother than dirtis
patience. Theyre both really slow endeavors. But the element of
terroir has also revealed itself to Thomas in both fields. In one
Roman town, they might mark vases with the imprint of a leaping stag; down the road, same vase, but decorated with the visage
of Apollo instead. I find that parallel in wine, those kinds of regional nuances and continuities, he observes. That, and the
potential to discover something unique, surprising, even transformative, down in the dirt.

Buying Guide

Cable cars provide transport over the steep hillside vineyards of Via Santa Cruz, in the Lolol region of Chiles Colchagua Valley.

Spectator Selections
117 Highly Recommended
117
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New Wines From

Around The World
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BY THE NUMBERS
The April 30 Buying Guide features 13 classic
wines and nearly 400 outstanding wines from
among reviews of more than 600 new releases.

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S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S
Highly Recommended
The issues most impressive wines. Includes
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal
purchases based on their combination of score,
price and availability.

MarcassinPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Three

Sisters Vineyard 2010 $75 CALIFORNIA This

96
94
95

G.D. VajraBarolo Bricco delle Viole 2011

$70 ITALY Graphite and iron aromas lead off,

with cherry, floral, licorice, tea and underbrush flavors.

This is intense, vibrant and resonant on the long, fruitand mineral-infused aftertaste. Best from 2019 through
2032. 1,500 cases made.B.S.

TabarriniMontefalco Sagrantino Colle

alle Macchie 2011 $70 ITALY Raspberry coulis

and dried fig notes are rich and ripe in this well-knit red.
Defined by sleek tannins, this is full-bodied and dense,
but the notes of fruit, dried thyme, leather, bergamot and
coffee are accessible and aromatic, lingering on the lasting, minerally finish. Drink now through 2026. 250 cases
made.A.N.

offers a rich, unctuous core of fresh earth and herbs, along

with a strong dose of oak, though the wine wears the wood
well. Strikingly youthful and vibrant, this could easily pass
for a much younger wine. Drink now through 2023. 175
cases made.J.L.

95
94

Lemos & van ZellerDouro Quinta Vale

D. Maria 2013 $68 PORTUGAL Ripe, rich and

lushly spiced, this muscular red features dark cherry and

plum compote flavors that are accented by light pepper
notes. Dark chocolate and cardamom accents show on
the creamy finish. Drink now through 2022. 1,800 cases
made.K.M.

93

Produttori del BarbarescoBarbaresco

2012 $37 ITALY A pretty red, boasting floral,

strawberry and raspberry flavors, accented by tobacco and

underbrush notes. The tannins are firm yet well-integrated,
creating a balanced impression. Best from 2017 through
2027. 23,330 cases made.B.S.

Giuseppe Mascarello & FiglioBarolo

Monprivato 2011 $150 ITALY This expressive

red delivers alluring cherry, strawberry, floral and mineral

flavors that build to the long, expansive finish. The elegant profile belies the serious structure underneath, which
should allow this to develop over the next 15 to 20 years.
Offers fine berry fruit and a minerally aftertaste. Best from
2018 through 2033. 1,900 cases made.B.S.

Collectibles
Wines that will improve most from additional
bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
gain in value.

94
94

style, with classic Nebbiolo character, exuding floral,

cherry, strawberry, leather and mineral flavors. The lingering tobacco finish gets a boost from the light burr of
tannins. Remains juicy and long. Best from 2017 through
2032. 300 cases imported.B.S.

SojournPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gaps

Crown Vineyard 2014 $59 CALIFORNIA Lightly

aromatic, but rich and layered, this offers excellent density and depth, with fine-grained tannic grip and a long,
persistent finish that keeps flashing the core flavors. Drink
now through 2020. 1,350 cases made.J.L.

Falletto di Bruno GiacosaBarbaresco Asili

Riserva 2011 $400 ITALY An elegant, sinewy

97

Giacomo ConternoBarolo Monfortino

Riserva 2008 $675 ITALY Flavors of menthol,

earth, underbrush and tobacco lead off in this monolithic

red, with submerged sweet fruit. An intense array of mineral details emerge, persisting through the long aftertaste.
Fresh and balanced, with a long life ahead. One of the
wines of the vintage. Best from 2018 through 2035. 650
cases made.B.S.
Buying Guide cover photograph by Johnny Stockshooter /
Alamy.

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117

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys

About the Buying Guide

Smart Buys
Wines that deliver fine character at affordable
prices and that are broadly available.

his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings
reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue.
Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator
100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the
taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com.
Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote
the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewers initials appear, the wine was
tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors.
James Laube
Harvey Steiman
Thomas Matthews
Kim Marcus
Bruce Sanderson
James Molesworth
MaryAnn Worobiec
Alison Napjus
Tim Fish
Gillian Sciaretta

California
Australia, Oregon, Washington
Spain
Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal
Burgundy, Italy
Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Rhne Valley, South Africa
Australia, California, New Zealand
Alsace, Beaujolais, Champagne, Italy
California
France

93

Bodegas La EmperatrizRioja Finca La

Emperatriz Crianza 2010 $22 SPAIN Fresh

and focused, this red delivers black cherry, licorice, black

olive, tea and smoke flavors that mingle harmoniously
over light, firm tannins. Orange peel acidity keeps this
lively through the spicy finish. Not showy, but balanced
and graceful. Drink now through 2022. 15,000 cases
made.T.M.

How We Do the Tastings

Wine Spectator editors taste approximately 20,000 wines each year. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York
and Napa, Calif. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions.
All tastings are conducted in private, under controlled conditions. Wines are always tasted blind, in flights
organized by varietal, appellation or region. Bottles are bagged and coded. Tasters are told only the general type of
wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Price is not taken into account. Each tasting begins with a wine
previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the
blind tasting to ensure consistency. A typical tasting-session consists of 20 to 30 wines, with a maximum of two
sessions per day. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions, always in subsequent blind tastings.
Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags. Additional comments
may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed, but the score is never changed.

Featured Wines: Spectator Selections, Labels and Photographs

Each issue, our editors choose wines with special qualities; called Spectator Selections, they are highlighted in the
first pages of this Buying Guide, along with their labels. The categories are described below. In addition, selected
reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal, presenting these producers in a
more personal way. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not
represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured.
Highly Recommended: The issues most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that
represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.
Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest
potential to gain in value.
Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.
Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.

About Prices and Wines Tasted

90

Tenute di EmraPrimitivo di Manduria

Antica Masseria del Sigillo 2014 $17 ITALY

Theres a rich, mouthfilling quality to this medium-bodied

red, offering a velvety mix of spiced cherry, mulberry and
herbed olive flavors, with accents of mocha and graphite.
Plush tannins show on the juicy finish. Drink now through
2021. 2,500 cases made.A.N.

90

FerrariBrut Trento NV $26 ITALY Fresh

and balanced, with a fine, lacy bead and a streak

of salinity underscoring the Asian pear, ground ginger,
hazelnut and lemon zest notes. Very drinkable. Drink now
through 2019. 200,000 cases made.A.N.

Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the
prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary.
Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail.
Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there.

About the 100-Point Scale

Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on
potential qualityhow good the wine will be when at its peak. The score summarizes a wines overall quality;
the tasting note describes the wines style and character.
95100
Classic: a great wine
9094
Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
8589
Very good: a wine with special qualities
8084
Good: a solid, well-made wine
7579
Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
5074
Not recommended

118

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Bodegas Resalte de PeafielRibera del

Duero de Restia Crianza Selected Harvest
2011 $20 SPAIN A polished texture carries harmonious

90

flavors of black cherry, tobacco, leather and smoke, with

firm, well-integrated tannins and balsamic acidity. Focused
and fresh, in a savory style. Drink now through 2021.
3,000 cases made.T.M.

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys / Best Values

A NOBLE
COMMITMENT
TO Q UALI T Y
SINCE 1497

89

Marqus de CceresRioja Crianza 2012

$15 SPAIN Ripe flavors of black cherry and plum

are framed by sweet vanilla and spicy notes in this generous red. Orange peel acidity keeps this lively, with light,
firm tannins imparting structure. Drink now through 2022.
90,000 cases imported.T.M.

89

OdfjellCabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley

Armador 2014 $13 CHILE This offers a lively

mineral component to the plush, well-modulated flavors

of cherry tart, plum and raspberry. The snappy finish offers
dried mint and forest floor accents. Drink now through
2018. 30,000 cases made.K.M.

Barone Fini produces exceptionally crisp

and balanced wines that are a true relection
of the Trentino region and over 500 years
of winemaking heritage and tradition.
Experience our noble commitment to
quality at a price all can enjoy.

15TH GENERATION WINEMAKER

87
89

Juv y CampsBrut Nature Cava Gran

Reserva de la Familia 2011 $16 SPAIN A firm,

focused version, with a smoky streak of mineral underscoring the flavors of fresh-cut pear, mandarin orange peel,
vanilla biscuit and pickled ginger. Drink now through
2018. 166,660 cases made.A.N.

Ca FurlanExtra Dry Prosecco Cuve

Beatrice NV $10 ITALY Balanced and lightly

juicy, this creamy Prosecco offers textbook notes of white

peach, almond skin and orchard blossom, as well as lemon
zest and spice details on the finish. Drink now. 200,000
cases made.A.N.

Best Values
Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide
distribution.

87

Umani RonchiMontepulciano dAbruzzo

Podere 2014 $9 ITALY This juicy red is light-

to medium-bodied, with herbaceous aromas and forward

black raspberry and currant fruit framed by crisp tannins.
Drink now through 2019. 35,000 cases made.A.N.

91

Jos Maria da FonsecaMoscatel de Setbal

Alambre 2010 $11 PORTUGAL A fresh-tasting

sweetie, showing tightly wound flavors of butterscotch,

dried apricot and mango that lead to a spicy finish, with
hints of dried pineapple and mocha. Drink now through
2025. 157,772 cases made.K.M.

86

Via Santa EmaSauvignon Blanc Maipo

Valley Select Terroir 2015 $9 CHILE Shows

good balance to the apple tart and dried mango flavors.

Ripe citrus hints linger on the spicy finish. Drink now.
18,000 cases made.K.M.

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www.deutschfamily.com
2016 Imported by Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY 10604.
Enjoy Our Quality Responsibly.

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119

New Releases: Australia / Chile

New Wines From Around the World

91 PenfoldsShiraz South Australia Bin 28

Kalimna 2013 $30 Thick and velvety flavors of plum

AUSTRALIA
Red

94

PenfoldsCabernet Sauvignon South

Australia Bin 707 2013 $500 A powerful, bold,

creamy and generous red, with plenty of vanilla, mocha,

dill and cedar notes forming a base for the juicy black
cherry and plum flavors. Velvety, smoky and fragrant on
the finish, which lingers effortlessly. Drink now through
2030. 100 cases imported.M.W.

and cassis are ripe and generous, showing hints of black

tea, mineral and herbs on the finish. Drink now through
2030. 4,729 cases imported.M.W.

91

PenfoldsShiraz South Australia St. Henri

2012 $99 Oozing with black licorice, cherry and min-

eral flavors, this features taut tannins, with juicy acidity.

Shows plenty of focus and follow-through on the finish.
Drink now through 2026. 191 cases imported.M.W.

93

90 TwelftreeGrenache McLaren Vale Schuller

Blewitt Springs 2013 $67 The core of cherry and

blend of rose petal, white pepper, raspberry coulis and red

licorice, showing details of fresh earth. Offers a long, lush
finish. Drink now through 2030. 41 cases made.M.W.

raspberry flavors is rich and effusive, with accents of earth

and pepper. Firm tannins provide appealing grip. Spicy
on the long finish. Drink now through 2030. 81 cases
made.M.W.

93

90 TwelftreeGrenache-Mataro Barossa Valley

and smoky overtones to the plum and huckleberry flavors,

this is intense and dense, yet shows plenty of refinement
and style. Drink now through 2030. 45 cases made.M.W.

Greenock-Ebenezer 2013 $67 Dark plum flavors

show a touch of savory details, along with cumin, tobacco,
black walnut and mineral accents. The tannins are polished and smooth. Drink now through 2030. 334 cases
made.M.W.

TwelftreeGrenache Barossa Valley Vinegrove Greenock 2013 $67 A vibrant, juicy, fragrant

TwelftreeGrenache McLaren Vale Moritz

Blewitt Springs 2013 $67 Brimming with black tea

93
PERFECTION PERFECTED!
SETTING THE STANDARD, YET AGAIN.

licorice and Earl Grey tea. Lingers on the finish. Drink

now through 2030. 6,104 cases imported.M.W.

Two HandsShiraz Heathcote Maxs Garden

2013 $65 Luscious, with generous, pure plum and black
cherry flavors that melt away to showcase details of cinnamon, black licorice, violet and white pepper. The velvety finish lingers enticingly. Drink now through 2030.
75 cases made.M.W.

90 Two HandsShiraz Clare Valley Fields of Joy

2014 $30 Theres an air of elegance to the tangy cherry
and wild raspberry flavors, with details of anise, espresso
and clove. Polished and supple on the finish. Drink now
through 2030. 800 cases made.M.W.

93

Two HandsShiraz McLaren Vale Lilys

Garden 2013 $65 Rich and luscious, with fleshy dark
plum, black cherry and licorice notes. Toast, cocoa and
black tea details create a generous chorus. Velvety finish.
Drink now through 2026. 530 cases made.M.W.

92

An Approach To RelaxationGrenache
Barossa Valley Sucette 2014 $59 Distinctively peppery, mingling fresh-cracked black and white pepper with
bright and tangy pomegranate flavors. Has an elegant,
polished air. The aromatics persist on the finish. Drink
now through 2030. 350 cases made.M.W.

of toast, cedar and spice notes at the core, lending a good

backbone to the lush red raspberry and cherry flavors, accented by lingering clove and black pepper hints. Drink
now through 2030. 28 cases made.M.W.

bursting with fresh flavors of dark plum, cherry tart and

dried blackberry. Asian spice notes fill in midpalate. The
complex finish balances savory and dark chocolate notes.
Drink now through 2020. 100 cases made.K.M.

Two HandsBrave Faces

Barossa Valley 2014 $30

RIESLING/ZINFANDEL

Round and fleshy, exhibiting ripe

blueberry, plum and kirsch flavors
at the core, while white pepper,
clove and licorice notes give this
some momentum on the long finish.
Grenache, Mourvdre and Shiraz.
Drink now through 2022. 800 cases
made.M.W.

92 Vitivincola Prez CruzCabernet Sauvignon

Maipo Valley Pircas de Liguai 2012 $45 Offers a

90 Vitivincola Prez CruzCabernet Sauvignon

Maipo Valley Limited Edition 2013 $25 An elegant
MICHAEL TWELFTREE
Co-owner

YalumbaGrenache Barossa The TriCentenary 2011 $54 Expressive, vivid, aromatic and

peppery, with an elegant approach to the spicy wild blackberry flavors at the core. The tannins gain some traction
on the long, effusive finish. Drink now through 2030. 200
cases imported.M.W.

91 AngoveShiraz McLaren Vale The Medhyk

Old Vine 2013 $95 Graceful, with wilted rose petal
and white pepper accents to the fresh and vibrant cherry
and cranberry flavors. Finishes smooth and enduring.
Drink now through 2026. 500 cases made.M.W.

91

PenfoldsCabernet Sauvignon South

Australia Bin 407 2013 $69 A perfumy note adds

grace to the juicy, minty blackberry and blueberry flavors,

with a pleasantly chewy tannic backbone and accents of

120

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Concha y ToroCarmenre Peumo Terrunyo

Block 27 2013 $40 A rich and well-sculpted red,

seductive aroma of cedar and sandalwood, with flavors to

match, as well as notes of red currant, roasted plum and
cherry tart. Hints of dried mint emerge midpalate. The
rich finish is filled with dark chocolate and Asian spice
details. Drink now through 2020. 1,100 cases made.K.M.

92

EXPLORE THE WORLD OF

RIEDEL AT
RIEDELUSA.NET

sive, rich and fruity flavors of dark plum, blackberry and

dried blueberry, accented by toothsome spice notes.
Creamy and lush midpalate, this features a long, rich finish loaded with cocoa powder and espresso details. Silky
tannins lend support. Drink now through 2022. 300 cases
made.K.M.

92

92

CHAMPAGNE WINE GLASS

93 MontGrasCabernet Sauvignon Maipo Intriga

Maxima 2012 $90 Suave and expressive, with explo-

92

TwelftreeGrenache McLaren Vale Copperview Onkaparinga Gorge 2013 $67 There are plenty

OAKED CHARDONNAY

CHILE

style, featuring a lively mix of hot stone and cedar to the

dried berry and wild cherry flavors. Savory midpalate, with
creamy notes. Details of green herbs and milk chocolate
emerge on the plush finish. Drink now through 2019.
4,000 cases made.K.M.

90 Kingston

FamilyPinot Noir Casablanca

Valley CJs Barrel 2014 $38 Delicate, with a refined

edge to the cherry and plum compote flavors, accented

by forest floor notes. Grippy acidity holds the spicy finish.
Drink now through 2019. 75 cases imported.K.M.

90 OdfjellCarignan Maule Valley Orzada 2013

$21

Lilting flavors of dark currant, cherry and dried

blueberry make for a lively mix. Very pure, with engaging
Asian spice notes. Mineral, slate and dark chocolate
details fill the finish. Drink now through 2019. 2,500 cases
made.K.M.

New Releases: Chile / France

90 Miguel TorresPinot Noir Empedrado

Escaleras de Empedrado 2012 $100 Suave, with
lip-smacking flavors of cherry pie and plum tart that are
enhanced by plenty of crunchy acidity. Ripe and beefy,
showing hints of green herb on the finish, which is backed
by medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2019.
200 cases made.K.M.

89

OdfjellCabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley

Armador 2014 $13 See Best Values, page 119.

89

Viu ManentCabernet Sauvignon Colchagua

Valley Gran Reserva 2013 $14 There are plenty of

beefy notes in this rich, savory style. Dried berry and cherry
tart flavors dominate, featuring accents of cream. Cocoa
powder details linger on the fresh finish. Drink now
through 2018. 16,700 cases made.K.M.

89

Viu ManentMalbec Colchagua Valley

Secreto 2014 $12 A dense and muscular red, with

concentrated flavors of dried blackberry, mushroom and

dark currant. Accents of sun dried tomato lead to a finish
of black olive. Savory finish. Drink now through 2018.
10,600 cases made.K.M.

88

OdfjellMalbec Lontu Valley Orzada 2012

$21 A crunchy, mineral-infused red, with crisp flavors
of red currant, green olive and dark plum. Meaty notes
linger on the spicy finish. Drink now through 2018. 2,000
cases made.K.M.

88

Via Santa EmaChardonnay Leyda Valley

Reserva 2015 $14 Richly spiced and broad-textured,
with a creamy array of apple pastry and pear tart flavors.
The lush finish is fresh and juicy, offering hints of honey
and beeswax. Drink now. 4,000 cases made.K.M.

87

Viu ManentMalbec Colchagua Valley Gran

Reserva 2013 $14 Taut and savory, with notes of hot
stone to the sun-dried tomato, black olive and dried berry
flavors. Cedary and sandalwood details show on the finish. Drink now. 10,200 cases made.K.M.

86

Via Santa EmaSauvignon Blanc Maipo

Valley Select Terroir 2015 $9 See Best Values, page
119.

85 Via Santa EmaChardonnay Maipo Valley

Select Terroir 2015 $9 Ripe melon and Gala apple
flavors dominate this medium-bodied white. Citrus zest
and spice details show on the finish. Drink now. 8,000
cases made.K.M.

90 Dominique LafonVolnay 2013

$85 Black
cherry and violet aromas and flavors are singed by smoke
and spice notes in this sleek, linear red. Nicely integrated
and firm on the finish, with room to grow. Best from 2018
through 2027. 300 cases made.B.S.

90 Chteau de MeursaultMeursault 2013

$85

Well-marked by vanilla, clove and toast notes, this white

shows apple and lemon flavors. Displays the lean, bracing
profile of the vintage, with fine intensity and length. The
finish echoes the spice elements. Drink now through 2020.
200 cases imported.B.S.

92

Chanson Pre & FilsCharmes-Chambertin

2013 $330 Intense cherry, raspberry, incense and spice

aromas and flavors introduce this vivid, juicy red. Taut

and linear, building to a long, succulent finish full of spice
and berry fruit. Best from 2018 through 2029. 11 cases
imported.B.S.

94

Domaine Philippe CharlopinCharmesChambertin 2013 $200 Bright and focused, with

spicy black cherry, raspberry, earth, smoke, vanilla and

toast aromas and flavors. Bracing acidity offsets the lush
texture, driving this to a long, expansive finish. Best from
2019 through 2030. 12 cases imported.B.S.

94

Lucien Le MoineCharmes-Chambertin 2013

$335

This is bright and pure, with a vivid structure,

featuring cherry, strawberry, floral, spice and stone flavors.
Firm, lingering with mineral and spice accents on the finish. Shows excellent potential. Best from 2019 through
2033. 10 cases imported.B.S.

93

ChampyCharmes-Chambertin 2013 $290

This needs air to reveal its ripe black cherry flavors,

surrounded by smoke, spice and mineral aromas. The firm
structure keeps everything under wraps for now, with sweet
fruit, spice and smoke details emerging at the end. Fine
length. Best from 2019 through 2030. 50 cases made.B.S.

93

Joseph DrouhinChambertin-Clos de Bze

2013 $740 Lush and fleshy for the vintage, with plenty

combines floral, stone fruit and citrus flavors with accents

of spice. The rich texture is offset by lively acidity, leaving a long, lingering aftertaste of fruit and spice. Best from
2017 through 2024. 515 cases made.B.S.

91

Chteau de MeursaultMeursault Charmes

2013 $130 Spice, petrol and butterscotch flavors push

the citrus and apple notes to the background for now, yet
this white offers concentration and staying power. Balanced,
vibrant and long, this just needs a little time to integrate.
Best from 2017 through 2023. 100 cases imported.B.S.

91

Chteau de MeursaultMeursault Perrires

2013 $150 Ripe peach, melon and citrus flavors are
shaded by Bourbon and spice notes in this rich, oak-tinged
white. Lacks the density or concentration of its peers, but
remains flavorful and long. Best from 2017 through 2023.
100 cases imported.B.S.

Joseph DrouhinCharmes-Chambertin 2013

$300 A concentrated, intense red, with cherry, straw-

berry, iron, tobacco and spice flavors locked up tight

within the solid structure. All the components are in the
right place, and the finish is long. Just needs time. Best
from 2019 through 2032. 15 cases imported.B.S.

93

Alex GambalCharmes-Chambertin 2013

$180 This red verges on cherry jam, with raspberry and

strawberry notes chiming in. Firms up, building to a long,

spice-tinged finish. Cohesive and tight. Best from 2018
through 2030. 3 cases imported.B.S.

93

Louis LatourChambertin Cuve Hritiers

Latour 2013 $350 Pure cherry marks this elegant,
intense red. Lean and tightly coiled, with elements of
mineral, spice and currant. Shows excellent length, but
this crisp version will need a few years to find equilibrium.
Best from 2019 through 2032. 95 cases made.B.S.

93 Domaine Perrot-MinotCharmes-Chambertin 2013 $450 A smooth, cherry- and blueberryinfused red, with ample mineral and spice accents for
support. Balanced, with a cohesive structure and fine
length. Best from 2018 through 2030. 175 cases made.B.S.

2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA 98072

Chteau de MeursaultMeursault Clos des

Grands Charrons 2013 $110 This enticing white

Northwest heritage by presenting the

94

93

Offers enticing aromas of black cherry, black

currant and violet, but remains tight and closed on the palate. Theres a solid structure and a long finish, so be patient.
Best from 2018 through 2028. 150 cases made.B.S.

our Columbia Valley AVA. It honors our

Burgundy / Cte de Nuits /

Charmes-Chambertin &
Neighboring Grands Crus

Burgundy / Cte de Beaune

Dominique LafonVolnay Les Lurets 2013

is an exquisite Bordeaux style blend from

FRANCE

FRANCE
$132

This 20th vintage of our Artist Series wine

artwork of Dale Chihuly on its label.

of juicy cherry and raspberry fruit. Firmly built, this

develops on the palate, leading to a long, fruit-, mineraland spice-tinged aftertaste. Combines finesse and intensity. Best from 2019 through 2032. 20 cases imported.B.S.

92

20 years led to this.

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New Releases: France

FRANCE
Burgundy / Cte de Nuits /
Gevrey-Chambertin

93

Domaine Philippe CharlopinGevreyChambertin Les Evocelles 2013 $85 Smoky black

cherry and blackberry flavors are augmented by spice and

coffee notes in this expressive red. Vibrant and balanced,
with a long, toast- and fruit-inflected aftertaste. Best from
2017 through 2028. 30 cases imported.B.S.

93

Louis JadotGevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques 2013 $208 Intense and powerful, with plum,

90 Chanson

Pre & FilsGevrey-Chambertin

2013 $70 Theres purity to the cherry, strawberry, herb

92 Daniel Rion & FilsVosne-Romane Village

2013 $68 A rich, smoky version, featuring black cherry,

and spice flavors in this elegant and tightly wound red.

Well-balanced and long on the finish. Best from 2017
through 2024. 120 cases imported.B.S.

blackberry, spice and toasty oak notes. Deftly balanced,

with a vibrant structure and a long, smoke- and spiceinflected finish. Best from 2017 through 2027. 80 cases
imported.B.S.

90 Domaine

Philippe CharlopinGevreyChambertin La Justice 2013 $70 A whiff of acetone

signals this plum- and cherry-flavored red, which settles

down on the palate, with a rich texture and well-integrated
acidity and tannins. Just a little skittish on the nose now.
Best from 2018 through 2029. 50 cases imported.B.S.

90 Louis LatourGevrey-Chambertin 2013

$80

black cherry and spice flavors flowing before giving way

to dense tannins. Finishes with tobacco and mineral elements. All the components are there, but this needs time
to integrate. Best from 2018 through 2027. 200 cases
imported.B.S.

A ripe style, revealing kirsch, raspberry and plum fruit,

accented by earth and tobacco notes. Firm tannins leave
their grip on the moderately long finish. Vibrant, but needs
time. Best from 2018 through 2028. 1,615 cases made.B.S.

92

Au Vell 2013 $65

Jean-Claude BoissetGevrey-Chambertin
2013 $74 A lavish version, with a velvety texture that

wraps around the black cherry, black currant and spice

flavors. Harmonious and expressive, featuring a lingering
aftertaste that echoes fruit and spice notes. Drink now
through 2025. 73 cases imported.B.S.

92

Domaine Philippe CharlopinGevreyChambertin Bel-Air 2013 $95 This shows fine

concentration and intensity for the vintage, with juicy

black cherry, raspberry, toast and mineral notes backed by
a firm structure. The fruit, spice and stone elements linger. Best from 2018 through 2028. 20 cases imported.B.S.

92

Marchand-Grillot & FilsGevrey-Chambertin

Petite Chapelle 2013 $100 Firm and almost chewy

in texture, this red is tightfisted, with cherry, raspberry

and spice flavors. Theres something a little wilder here
too, revealing a firm grip on the woodsy finish. Best from
2017 through 2028. 280 cases made.B.S.

92

Chteau de MarsannayGevrey-Chambertin
2013 $85 A brooding monolith of a red, with reticent
cherry, currant and strawberry flavors. Well-structured
and dense, this features an austere, chalky finish. Best
from 2019 through 2030. 100 cases imported.B.S.

92

Domaine Perrot-MinotGevrey-Chambertin
2013 $110 A linear profile sets the stage for cherry,
currant and herbal flavors in this silky, vibrant red. Tightens up on the finish, where the long mineral aftertaste
reigns. Best from 2017 through 2025. 241 cases made.B.S.

92 Marc RoyGevrey-Chambertin Cuve

Alexandrine 2013 $100 This is exotic, featuring
violet, black currant, blackberry and graphite aromas and
flavors. Silky and balanced, with a juicy, tangy finish. Best
from 2017 through 2028. 100 cases made.B.S.

91

Domaine Philippe CharlopinGevreyChambertin Morceaux Vieilles Vignes 2013 $75

Smoky aromas give way to cherry and herbal flavors in

this smooth red. Shows ample bass notes, with a firm, crisp
finish echoing the cherry, spice and toast elements. Best
from 2017 through 2028. 60 cases imported.B.S.

Black cherry, spice and mineral

flavors show intensity and persistence in this rich red,
with a slight burr to the tannins. Moderate length. Best
from 2017 through 2026. 300 cases made.B.S.

FRANCE
Burgundy / Cte de Nuits /
Other Red

94 David DubandClos Vougeot 2012 $233 A

leafy, charry edge upsets the cherry and blackberry flavors
in this unsettled red, with a long, saturated finish. Theres
plenty of sappy fruit, so be patient. The best years are ahead.
Best from 2018 through 2033. 100 cases made.B.S.
93

Olivier ChanzyVosne-Romane Petits Monts

2013 $125 Shows fine purity, with cherry, strawberry

and floral aromas and flavors contributing to a refined,

tightly knit profile. Though young and reticent, this is
very long and elegant on the aftertaste. Best from 2018
through 2030. 25 cases made.B.S.

93

Daniel Rion & FilsClos Vougeot Le Petit

Maupertuis 2013 $150 This plump red is classy, with

fleshy cherry, black currant, spice and smoke notes, this

picks up a mineral component on the palate. Stays firm
through the finish, but also balanced and long. Best from
2018 through 2030. 30 cases imported.B.S.

93

Daniel Rion & FilsEchzeaux 2013 $150

Intense cherry, strawberry, rose and stone flavors are the

hallmarks of this red. Turns firm and lean by the finish,
with a long aftertaste of high-toned fruit and mineral. Best
from 2018 through 2030. 50 cases imported.B.S.

93

Daniel Rion & FilsNuits-St.-Georges Les

Hauts Pruliers 2013 $83 Rich, showing vivid acidity

for balance, focusing the cherry, raspberry and mineral

flavors. Finishes on the racy side, with fine length and a
chalky, minerally impression. Best from 2019 through
2030. 50 cases imported.B.S.

92 David DubandChambolle-Musigny Les

Gruenchers 2013 $131 The silky texture and vibrant
structure frame cherry, strawberry and spice flavors in this
expressive red. The olive- and sandalwood-tinged oak
meshes well and should integrate even more in a year or
two. Best from 2018 through 2029. 175 cases made.B.S.

91

Camille GiroudGevreyChambertin 2013 $70 Bright,

with cherry and raspberry flavors,
this red is light in weight but not
intensity, offering a fine interplay of
berry details. The delicate framework ends in a mouthwatering
flourish of cherry, spice and mineral
notes. Best from 2017 through
2025. 25 cases imported.B.S.

90 Marchand-Grillot & FilsGevrey-Chambertin

92

Daniel Rion & FilsNuits-St.-Georges Aux

Vignerondes 2013 $75 Black cherry, blackberry, min-

DAVID CROIX
Winemaker

91

Marc RoyGevrey-Chambertin La Justice

2013 $73 Sweet, sappy cherry and raspberry flavors

permeate the juicy texture in this supple red. There is

ample structure, allowing this to glide into the long,
harmonious finish. Best from 2017 through 2025. 200
cases made.B.S.

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eral and light vegetal flavors highlight this intense, elegant

red. Firmly structured and long, with fruit and mineral
notes lingering. Best from 2018 through 2028. 25 cases
imported.B.S.

92

Daniel Rion & FilsVosne-Romane Les

Beaux-Monts 2013 $90 Shows concentration and

intensity to the juicy texture, setting the stage for cherry,

raspberry and mineral flavors. Tightens up, with a chalky
feel on the lingering finish. Best from 2018 through 2029.
50 cases imported.B.S.

91

Daniel Rion & FilsNuits-St.-Georges Les

Grandes Vignes 2013 $58 Ripe, well-defined flavors

of black cherry, blackberry and toast mark this rich red.

Smooth and dense, with fine grip and harmony overall.
Forward, yet should develop over the medium term. Best
from 2017 through 2026. 50 cases imported.B.S.

90 David DubandVosne-Romane 2013

$75

Pure and focused, this lively red delivers cherry, raspberry

and mineral flavors, with hints of vanilla. Lingers on the
firm, fruit- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2017
through 2025. 1,000 cases made.B.S.

90 Marchand-Grillot

& FilsMorey-St.-Denis
2013 $52 Black cherry, raspberry, spice and smoke aro-

mas and flavors are the hallmarks of this elegant red. Beautifully balanced, with a texture of raw silk and a persistent
finish. Drink now through 2025. 250 cases made.B.S.

90 Chteau de MarsannayMarsannay Les

Longeroies 2013 $78 Smoky cherry aromas give way
to currant and strawberry fruit in this suave red. Supple
and juicy, with well-heeled tannins and a lingering finish
of berry and spice. Best from 2017 through 2022. 100 cases
imported.B.S.

90 Daniel Rion & FilsNuits-St.-Georges Vieilles

Vignes 2013 $50 Dense and taut, with black currant
and cherry flavors coiled around dusty tannins. Fresh and
balanced, in a youthful way, with a mix of spice and mineral lining the finish. Best from 2018 through 2025. 50
cases imported.B.S.

90 Daniel

Rion & FilsVosne-Romane Les

Chaumes 2013 $85 Floral and spice notes are the
hallmarks of this aromatic red. Cherry and berry flavors
form the core, while a chalky sensation lines the finish.
A racy, linear style. Best from 2017 through 2024. 50 cases
imported.B.S.

FRANCE
Languedoc-Roussillon

91 Domaine de la Rserve dOLanguedoc

Terrasses du Larzac Hissez O 2013 $35 Richly
layered with ripe raspberry, black olive and cherry tea
notes, this full-bodied red sports tangy acidity and ample,
polished tannins. Dried meat, savory spice and mocha
accents mark the lingering, iron-tinged finish. Syrah,
Grenache and Cinsault. Drink now through 2018. 30 cases
imported.G.S.

90 Franois LurtonCtes du Roussillon-Villages

Mas Janeil 2013 $25 This concentrated and polished
red delivers lush flavors of cherry compote, ripe plum and
mocha flavors, lined with plenty of savory spice and mineral accents that coat the mouth. A well-structured version, featuring plenty of tannins and tangy acidity, this is
pure and complex. Drink now through 2019. 100 cases
imported.G.S.

90 Chteau MarisMinervois
La Livinire Les Planels 2012
$25 Theres a freshness behind
the savory spice and meat notes
in this medium-bodied red, with
bright red berry, plum and bitter
chocolate flavors pushing through
midpalate. Grippy tannins define
the zesty, herb-tinged finish. Drink
now through 2018. 1,100 cases
made.G.S.

ROBERT EDEN
Winemaker

New Releases: France

90 Chteau MarisVin de France White Brama

87

2013 $44 Aromatic white blossom, spice and tanger-

Friendly, with a slight off-dry feel to the quince, green

melon and green apple flavors. Offers an open, breezy,
honeysuckle-edged finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases
made.J.M.

ine notes lead the way in this vibrant, fresh white. Peach
cream, mineral and candied basil accents mingle on the
lingering finish. Drink now. 120 cases made.G.S.

89 Domaine MagellanSyrah-GrenacheCarignan Languedoc 2013 $19 Plenty of creamed

raspberry and cherry notes coat the mouth in this concentrated red. Ample spice and tangy acidity liven up
midpalate, with smooth tannins lingering through the
finish. Drink now through 2019. 2,200 cases made.G.S.

Domaine de VaufugetVouvray 2014 $15

86

Serge BatardVin de Pays du Val de Loire

Domaine Les Hautes Nolles Hho Le Rouge 2014
$14 Light and fresh, with a friendly cherry core, lined

with a floral hint and carried by dusty tannins. Cabernet

Franc, Grolleau and Gamay. Drink now. 4,100 cases
made.J.M.

89 Domaine de la Rserve dOLanguedoc

Terrasses du Larzac Bilbo 2014 $25 This fresh,

86

medium-bodied red offers ripe cherry, plum and steeped

berry flavors, structured with crisp acidity. Hints of sweet
spice and herb add appeal through the lip-smacking, minerally finish. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now
through 2018. 150 cases imported.G.S.

has good lemon pith, white peach and sel gris flavors,
showing a light herb echo on the finish. Drink now. 15,000
cases made.J.M.

89

Domaine VaquerCarignan Ctes Catalanes

LExpression 2011 $25 A generous, full-bodied red,
with black cherry tart, damson plum and Asian spice flavors, lifted up by solid acidity. This shows polish through
the mint- and mineral-laced finish. Drink now through
2019. 330 cases made.G.S.

88

Jeff CarrelLanguedoc Les Darons 2014 $16

Well-structured, with firm, tangy acidity, this full-bodied

red boasts blackberry, currant and red plum notes, with
paprika and olive accents. Fine tannins mark the grilled
herb and mineral-tinged finish. Grenache, Carignan and
Syrah. Drink now through 2020. 24,400 cases made.G.S.

88 Chteau de LucCorbires White Les

Jumelles 2014 $16 This medium-to-full bodied white
is well-spiced, with supple layers of lemon cream and
glazed peach, accented by touches of sliced almond and
blossom. Integrated acidity holds through the minerally
finish. Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Drink now
through 2018. 2,000 cases made.G.S.

87

Chteau MarisMinervois La Livinire La

Touge 2013 $19 A rustic red, with peppercorn and

Chreau-CarrMuscadet de Svre et Maine

Sur Lie Chteau de Chasseloir 2014 $15 This

FRANCE
Rhne

93

Franck BalthazarCornas Chaillot 2013 $60

Well-built, with a dense core of brambly blackberry, black

currant and plum fruit that melds with dark olive, bay and
tobacco notes through the finish. Shows ample grip and
plenty of cut, stretched out by a smoldering charcoal edge.
Best from 2018 through 2026. 100 cases imported.J.M.

91

Franck BalthazarCornas Cuve Casimir

Balthazar 2013 $45 Solid, with a well-built core of
black cherry, bitter plum and red currant fruit, picking up
hints of bay, warm iron and dark olive. Expands through
the finish, with a chalky spine providing the underpinning. This should fill out more in the cellar. Best from
2018 through 2023. 56 cases imported.J.M.

90 Chteau de MontfauconVin de Table Vin de

Monsieur Le Baron de Montfaucon 2011 $46 Shows
good typicity, with lively anise, bramble, tobacco and
leather accents amid a core of juicy plum and blackberry
fruit. Open-knit and ready for consumption. Grenache,
Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvdre, Counoise and others. Drink now through 2017. 8,500 cases made.J.M.

meaty notes intertwined with dried berry, spiced plum and

briary accents that ease into a minerally finish. Drink now.
3,800 cases made.G.S.

88

87

with hints of savory and iron. Small in scale, but pure and
chiseled. Gamay. Drink now. 205 cases made.J.M.

Cave des Vignerons Runis des Crus

FaugresFaugres Mas Olivier Grande Rserve
2013 $15 Dusty earth, dried red berry and savory spice
flavors are matched with a tangy acidity in this mediumbodied red. Red licorice and herbal notes mark the finish.
Drink now. 10,000 cases made.G.S.

86 Franois LurtonGrenache-Sauvignon Pays

dOc Les Hauts de Janeil 2014 $13 Crunchy pear,
almond and floral notes are fresh and appealing in this
friendly white, with spice and herbal flavors lining the
crisp finish. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported.G.S.

FRANCE
Loire

89

Jean-Marc GiletVouvray Sec Domaine de la

Rouletire 2014 $20 Focused, with a core of green

fig, green almond and ginger flavors, backed by a fresh,

mineral-edged finish. Shows good purity and length. Drink
now through 2017. 10,000 cases made.J.M.

87

Chreau-CarrMuscadet de Svre et Maine

Sur Lie Chteau de la Chesnaie 2014 $15 Bright
and crunchy, with fennel, white peach and lemon zest
notes and racy acidity. Lacks some range, but shows good
vibrancy and length. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.J.M.

87

Domaine de la CollineChinon 2014 $15

Green olive and savory notes are backed by slightly briskedged cherry fruit, allied to a lightly chalky spine. This
has good typicity but may be a bit too herbal for most
folks. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases made.J.M.

Domaine Clusel-RochCoteaux du Lyonnais

Galet 2013 $16 Light, racy bitter cherry fruit is laced

88

Chteau de MarjoletCtes du Rhne 2013

$13 Stylish, with tea and singed cinnamon notes weav-

ing amid the lightly mulled cherry and red currant fruit.
Shows a hint of juniper through the finish. Drink now.
6,650 cases made.J.M.

87

Jean-Pierre BoissonVin de Pays de Vaucluse

White Domaine du Pre Caboche 2014 $11 Has a
slightly nutty, oxidized edge, with wet straw, lemon curd
and creamed apple notes, ending with a waft of smoke
through the finish. Shows enough subtle acidity to stay
balanced. For fans of the style. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink
now. 1,800 cases made.J.M.

87

DelasVentoux 2014 $11 This red has a light

brambly frame around modestly juicy cherry and blackberry fruit, picking up a dried anise note through the
finish. Drink now. 4,475 cases imported.J.M.

86

Jean-Pierre BoissonVin de Pays de Vaucluse

Domaine du Pre Caboche 2014 $11 Plum and

cherry pie flavors are soft and friendly in feel, with light
violet and anise seed notes adding a touch of range through
the finish. Caladoc, Marselan, Egiodola and Syrah. Drink
now. 6,500 cases made.J.M.

85

Domaine de la GuichardeCtes du Rhne

2014 $14 Offers a light, silky mix of damson plum and

violet notes, with a twinge of iron to hold the finish. Drink

now. 2,000 cases imported.J.M.

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New Releases: France / Germany

FRANCE
Southwest

91

Domaine CauhapJuranon Symphonie de

Novembre 2012 $25/375ml Luscious and complex,

91 Emile LeclreBrut Blanc de Blancs

Champagne NV $43 Fine and creamy in texture,

this sweetie sports rich marmalade, honeysuckle, hazelnut

and white chocolate notes, woven together with lively
acidity. Floral, spice and heather accents line the lingering
finish. Drink now through 2030. 1,000 cases made.G.S.

with a chalky underpinning and a subtle mesh of ripe pear,

biscuit, graphite and citrus. A fine aperitif. Drink now
through 2019. 840 cases made.A.N.

90 Domaine

CauhapJuranon Sec Sve

dAutomne 2013 $30 Offering a creamy texture and

a lively structure, this full-bodied white bursts with honeysuckle, tangerine, pastry and spice notes, paired with
candied basil and mineral details. Features a lingering,
cream-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,000 cases
made.G.S.

89

Domaine CauhapJuranon Ballet

dOctobre 2013 $25 Luscious and layered, this sweetie
boasts peach tart and mango fruit, with candied tarragon
and honeysuckle undertones. Well-spiced, this features
fresh acidity that lingers through the creamy finish. Drink
now through 2020. 4,000 cases made.G.S.

89

Domaine CauhapJuranon Sec Quest by

Cauhap 2014 $20 Beautifully aromatic, with white

blossom, creamed peach, mango and spice notes, bound

together by lively acidity. Savory details of tarragon,
almond skin and mineral fill the long finish. Drink now
through 2019. 1,500 cases made.G.S.

89

Chteau de JurqueJuranon Tendresse

2012 $24 This is densely layered with rich flavors of

apple cobbler, hazelnut, dried pineapple and spice, underscored by savory herb details that linger through the clean,
moderate finish. Drink now. 50 cases imported.G.S.

87

Domaine CauhapJuranon Sec Chant des

Vignes 2014 $15 Mouthcoating and well-structured,

with solid acidity, this aromatic white sports dried apricot,

almond and pineapple flavors, edged by savory herb and
spice notes, with a cream-tinged finish. Drink now through
2018. 5,000 cases made.G.S.

85

Les Vignerons de BuzetCabernet-Merlot

Buzet Marquis de Hautevigne 2012 $13 This
fresh, medium-bodied red has crisp acidity that highlights
the blackberry, licorice drop and briar notes, structured
with supple tannins and followed by a mineral- and herbinfused finish. Drink now. 3,600 cases made.G.S.

FRANCE
Other

92 Jean LaurentBrut Blanc de Blancs

Champagne 2003 $96 Loaded with exotic ground
spice and tropical hints of pineapple pte de fruit and
passion fruit coulis, this expressive version is fresh and
focused, with a chalky underpinning and a refined, creamy
mousse. Disgorged November 2014. Drink now through
2026. 400 cases made.A.N.

92

Jean LaurentBrut Blanc de Noirs

Champagne 2003 $92 A firm, well-knit version,

with a hint of bread dough accenting the tangy flavors of

crushed blackberry, black currant, graphite, biscuit and
lemon curd. Though vivacious, the fine, creamy mousse
imparts a sense of finesse overall. Disgorged November
2014. Drink now through 2026. 400 cases made.A.N.

91

Marcel HuggRiesling Alsace Grand Cru

Altenberg de Bergheim 2010 $44 A lip-smacking
Riesling, with firm, focusing acidity and a smoky undertow, this offers a well-spiced mix of Asian pear, salted
almond skin, grapefruit granita and subtle paraffin. The
finish echoes the minerality. Drink now through 2025.
800 cases made.A.N.
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.
2016 DEUTSCH FAMILY WINE & SPIRITS,
WHITE PLAINS, NY 10604

124

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ground anise and forest floor. Finely knit, with a satiny

bead. For sipping or to pair with food. Drink now through
2026. 67 cases made.A.N.

91

Jean LaurentBrut Ros Champagne 2006

$94 A vinous version, lightly garnet in color and rich

with flavors of dried raspberry, cherry, singed orange peel,

88

Chteau RomaninAlpilles Le Mas de

Romanin 2014 $17 A fresh style, with bitter cherry
and damson plum fruit, lined with an iron note that
stretches out on the black pepper and violet-infused
finish. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvdre. From Provence.
Drink now through 2018. 5,500 cases made.J.M.

88 Philippe VialletVin de Savoie Perle de

Savoie 2014 $16 A fresh, floral style, offering honeysuckle, chamomile and talc notes atop a core of white
peach and star fruit flavors, with an unadorned finish.
Jacqure, Chasselas and Altesse. Drink now. 4,100 cases
made.J.M.

87

Michel Tissot & FilsChardonnay Arbois 2014

$15 Nicely rounded, with almond and ginger notes ca-

ressing the core of creamed yellow apple and melon fruit

flavors. A light stony echo lingers on the finish. From
Jura. Drink now. 1,000 cases made.J.M.

GERMANY
Riesling

95 GunderlochRiesling Auslese Rheinhessen

Rothenberg 2014 $75 Unctuous, rich and seductively
sweet, this oozes with glazed apricot, baked pear and apple
cobbler flavors. Offers a lacy texture, with a mouthfilling
creaminess. The endless finish features notes of lavender
and honeysuckle. This really sings and should gain with
age. Drink now through 2042. 100 cases made.K.M.

93 Schloss JohannisbergRiesling Sptlese

Rheingau Grnlack 2014 $40 Unctuous and lush,
with plenty of creaminess to the Gala apple, glazed pear
and candied apricot notes. This has a pleasant fatness to
the fruit compote flavors midpalate, showing plenty of
honey and spice details on the finish. Drink now through
2032. 100 cases imported.K.M.

93

Dr. LoosenRiesling Sptlese Mosel Erdener Treppchen

2014 $34 This offers lots of
creamy accents to the pure, fresh
flavors of apple cobbler, peach and
dried apricot. The long, succulent
finish echoes with rich, silky notes
of dried green herbs and lemongrass.
Drink now through 2034. 300 cases
imported.K.M.

ERNST LOOSEN
Owner & Winemaker

93 Dr. F. Weins-PrmRiesling Auslese Mosel

Erdener Prlat 2014 $37 Silky on the palate, with a
vibrant blend of grapefruit, white currant and kiwifruit
flavors, supported by fresh acidity. Shows effusive minerality as well, leading to a complex finish that offers honey,
cream and savory spice notes. Complex. Drink now
through 2040. 70 cases imported.K.M.

93

ZillikenRiesling Auslese Mosel Rausch 2014

$100 Creamy and lush up front, with notes of honey-

suckle and jasmine to the tangerine, red peach and Anjou

pear flavors. The generously spiced finish is loaded with
phyllo pastry and baklava notes that give this an elegant
allure. Drink now through 2040. 300 cases made.K.M.

92

GunderlochRiesling Sptlese Rheinhessen

Rothenberg 2014 $45 A firm and elegant style, with

plenty of zesty acidity behind the pear tart, apple pastry

and buttercream flavors. Hints of custard and allspice add
to the complexity. The plush finish is rich. Drink now
through 2030. 200 cases made.K.M.

New Releases: Germany / Italy

92

Dr. LoosenRiesling Sptlese Mosel Graacher

Himmelreich 2014 $34 Focused, with powerful min-

erality and loads of green apple, gooseberry and citrus zest

flavors, wrapped in an airy structure. Jellied citrus and
apricot notes linger on the pure finish. Drink now through
2034. 300 cases imported.K.M.

92

Schfer-FrhlichRiesling Sptlese Nahe

Felseneck 2014 $53 Taut and racy, with a strong

minerally component to the green apple, ripe citrus and

gooseberry flavors. Features a crisp and pure-tasting finish, showing notes of slate and flint. Powerful yet elegant.
Drink now through 2035. 200 cases made.K.M.

91

Reinhold HaartRiesling Sptlese Mosel

Goldtrpfchen 2014 $45 A crunchy white, with a

savory essence to the green apple and dried peach flavors,

accented by chamomile notes. Reveals hints of comb
honey on the open-textured finish. Drink now through
2032. 350 cases made.K.M.

91

Schloss LieserRiesling Sptlese Mosel Juffer

Sonnenuhr 2014 $35 A powerful and crisp style, with
a minerally character and a fresh savoriness to the green
peach and McIntosh apple flavors. The flinty finish delivers notes of sea salt and lemon zest. Drink now through
2030. 25 cases imported.K.M.

91

Dr. LoosenRiesling Sptlese Mosel rziger

Wrzgarten 2014 $34 This is loaded with red peach

and white cherry flavors that are fresh and juicy. Cream
and allspice details carry through on the lush finish, showing notes of wild herb. Drink now through 2030. 400 cases
imported.K.M.

91 Dr. LoosenRiesling Sptlese Mosel

Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2014 $34 Lush, with a creamy
texture and flavors of gooseberry, glazed apricot and apple
cobbler, matched to spicy notes. The honey-accented
finish has some minerally hints. Drink now through 2013.
300 cases imported.K.M.

90 Robert Eymael (Mnchhof)Riesling

Sptlese Mosel rzig Wrzgarten 2014 $30
This is rich, with peach, baked apple and butter pastry
flavors, balanced by fresh acidity. Engaging notes of citrus
zest emerge on the fresh and creamy finish. Drink now
through 2030. 500 cases made.K.M.

90 Schloss LieserRiesling Sptlese Mosel

Niederberg Helden 2014 $35 Very fruity and opentextured, featuring red peach, apricot and ripe apple flavors that are well-spiced. Shows plenty of honeyed notes
on the fat finish, with accents of sage. Drink now through
2028. 25 cases imported.K.M.

ITALY

Abruzzo

93

Emidio PepeMontepulciano dAbruzzo 2007

$100 A fragrant red, with dried flower, spice, game and

loamy earth notes lacing the crushed black currant and

dried fig flavors, supported by a rich, tarry underpinning.
Fine-grained tannins provide definition and grip in this
elegant red. Mouthwatering finish. Drink now through
2027. 3,333 cases made.A.N.

91

87

Valle RealeCerasuolo dAbruzzo 2014 $15

Dried strawberry, smoke and orange peel flavors are set in

this bright, creamy ros. Well-knit, with spice and almond
notes on the finish. Drink now. 2,167 cases made.A.N.

84

Nestore BoscoMontepulciano dAbruzzo R

2012 $10 Balanced and creamy, this light- to medium-

bodied red offers a tarry undertow to flavors of crushed

black cherry, licorice string and mocha, with a modest
finish. Drink now. 12,000 cases made.A.N.

ITALY

FriuliVenezia-Giulia

91

Livio FellugaRosazzo
Abbazia di Rosazzo 2013 $50

A bright, rich white, offering a

smoky underpinning and a finely
meshed mix of glazed apricot, toast,
lemon curd and aromatic herb and
spice, followed by a fine, creamy
finish. Friulano, Pinot Bianco,
Sauvignon Blanc and others. Drink
now through 2023. 300 cases
imported.A.N.

ANDREA FELLUGA
Owner & Winemaker

89 Marco FellugaFriulano Collio Russiz

Superiore 2014 $28 Bright and well-knit, this lithe
version shows a subtle mix of melon, almond skin and
dried apricot flavors, with accents of chervil, lemon peel
and mineral. Elegant. Drink now through 2021. 2,500
cases made.A.N.

89 JermannRibolla Gialla Venezia-Giulia

Vinnae Servus Cella 2013 $32 Light- to mediumbodied and waxy in texture, with baked pear, chopped
tarragon and crushed almond notes. Rich, but clean-cut
and minerally on the finish. Drink now through 2021.
14,000 cases made.A.N.

88

Livio FellugaPinot Grigio Collio 2014 $25

A creamy white, offering crushed almond and white peach

notes, layered with a subtle, minerally underpinning and
followed by a fresh finish. Drink now through 2019. 16,000
cases imported.A.N.

88

TerlatoPinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali

2014 $25 A bright and minerally white, with zippy
acidity driving the open-knit palate of pear, lemon peel,
apricot and chopped almond. Drink now through 2019.
10,000 cases made.A.N.

88

ZuaniCollio Vigne 2014 $24 A well-knit

white, fresh and lively, with flavors of cantaloupe, stone,
fresh ginger and kiwifruit in a light-bodied, lithe frame.
Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. Drink now through 2018. 1,900 cases imported.A.N.

87

Ronco dei TassiPinot Grigio Venezia-Giulia

Il Tasso 2014 $14 A balanced white, with Asian pear

and salted almond flavors, backed by fresh acidity. Lemon

zest and floral accents emerge on the moderate finish.
Drink now through 2018. 4,000 cases imported.A.N.

Emidio PepePecorino Colli Aprutini 2012

$90

A fine and creamy white, with glazed apricot,

crushed almond, lemon cream and clover honey flavors,
accented by aromatic chamomile, toasted coconut and
ground cardamom notes. Well-meshed and medium-bodied, presenting a fresh, focused finish. Drink now through
2022. 500 cases made.A.N.

91

87 Umani RonchiMontepulciano dAbruzzo

Podere 2014 $9 See Best Values, page 119.

Emidio PepeTrebbiano dAbruzzo 2010 $90

Rich and layered, this lightly hazy white is medium-bodied

and fresh, featuring flavors of steeped apricot, clover honey,
singed orange peel, chamomile and dried herb. Finely
meshed, with real verve carrying through to the zesty finish. Drink now through 2025. 2,333 cases made.A.N.

ITALY

Lombardy / Franciacorta

92

BellavistaExtra Brut Franciacorta Pas Oper

2008 $64 A firm and focused Franciacorta, with a
chalky underpinning and a tightly knit bead carrying the
flavors of fresh-chopped quince, honey, lemon meringue
pie and biscuit. Hints of smoke and candied ginger linger
on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 2,000 cases
made.A.N.

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New Releases: Italy

92

Ca del BoscoRos Franciacorta Cuve

Annamaria Clementi Riserva 2006 $120 Notes of

89

Ca del BoscoBrut Franciacorta Cuve

Prestige NV $40 Fresh and open-knit, this creamy

90 Tenimenti SpinsantiMarche Sassne 2007

strawberry and tangerine peel are enriched by hints of

toasted brioche, candied coconut, chopped hazelnut and
star anise in this fine and creamy ros, framed by vivid
acidity and a lasting, zesty finish. Drink now through 2026.
20 cases imported.A.N.

version is light-weight and airy in texture, offering a

crowd-pleasing mix of floral apricot, mandarin orange,
candied ginger and toasted brioche. Drink now through
2019. 2,500 cases imported.A.N.

black licorice and sun-dried cherry flavors in this creamy,

balanced red, with a tarry finish. Aging gracefully, this
shows depth and length. Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2022. 550 cases
made.A.N.

91

ITALY

BellavistaBrut Ros Franciacorta 2010 $54

Theres a creamy buoyancy to the texture and overall

weight of this refined Franciacorta, featuring lithe acidity
layered with delicate flavors of apricot, salted almond and
mille-feuille. Offers a fresh, lightly spiced finish. Disgorged
November 2014. Drink now through 2021. 4,580 cases
made.A.N.

91

Fratelli BerlucchiBrut Franciacorta Casa

delle Colonne Riserva 2007 $60 Pastry cream and
toasted brioche notes are layered with glazed apple, yellow plum and candied ginger flavors in this well-meshed
sparkler, backed by firm acidity and offering a creamy bead.
Drink now through 2022. 400 cases made.A.N.

91

Ca del BoscoBrut
Franciacorta 2011 $70
Ground anise, clove and bergamot accents are an aromatic entry point for this sleek and
finely knit sparkler, lacing together notes of Asian spice,
white cherry, chalk and verbena, all carried on the satiny
mousse. Drink now through
2026. 75 cases imported.A.N.

STEFANO CAPELLI
Winemaker

Lombardy / Other

92 Mamete PrevostiniSforzato di Valtellina

Albareda 2011 $68 Incense and spice notes bring to
mind a Turkish bazaar, presenting an aromatic entry for
this chewy, medium- to full-bodied red, with flavors of
crushed black raspberry, strawberry, smoke and graphite.
The long, mouthwatering finish shows abundant spice
and mineral details. Drink now through 2026. 830 cases
made.A.N.

$45 Leather and cured tobacco notes are layered with

90 Umani

RonchiCastelli
di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva
Classico Plenio 2013 $35

Well-spiced and creamy, this sleek

white is fresh and focused, offering
flavors of crushed Asian pear, sliced
almond, lemon meringue and dried
apricot, with an aromatic finish.
Drink now through 2021. 2,000
cases made.A.N.

MICHELE & MASSIMO

BERNETTI
Owners

91 Mamete PrevostiniValtellina Superiore

San Lorenzo Sassella 2011 $48 Delicate notes of

89

dried rose, ground clove and bergamot waft through this

fresh, seamlessly knit red, with dried fig and cherry, sweet
brown bread and spicy mineral flavors, layered with fine
tannins on the palate. Drink now through 2025. 800 cases
made.A.N.

acidity focuses this well-knit, medium-bodied white, which

offers a stony underpinning and a subtle mix of crunchy
yellow pear, ground ginger and white pepper flavors,
accented by hints of preserved lemon and sliced almond.
Drink now through 2021. 1,500 cases made.A.N.

91

88 Umani RonchiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Classico Villa Bianchi 2014 $13 Well-knit and juicy,

RainoldiSfursat di Valtellina 2012 $44

Richly fruity, with a creamy palate of strawberry shortcake, steeped cherry, candied orange peel, smoky mineral
and baking spice notes wrapped around the sculpted tannins. Juicy finish. Drink now through 2026. 750 cases
made.A.N.

Tenuta di TavignanoVerdicchio dei Castelli

di Jesi Classico Superiore Misco 2014 $18 Sleek

this balanced, medium-bodied white offers saline and

stone notes underscoring flavors of Anjou pear and slivered almond, with hints of lemon peel and fresh tarragon.
Drink now through 2019. 10,000 cases made.A.N.

91

91

RainoldiSfursat di Valtellina Fruttaio C

Rizzieri 2011 $59 The dried strawberry fruit is bright

87

orange peel, brioche and grated ginger notes are bright

and expressive in this vibrant Franciacorta. A skein of
aromatic ground spice unravels on the fine mousse and
finish. Drink now through 2021. 100 cases imported.A.N.

and tangy, while date and dried fig notes provide the richer
side of the profile in this juicy red. Silky tannins and aromatic accents of fresh, loamy earth and cured tobacco
hold sway on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 433
cases made.A.N.

with enough acidity for balance, this easy-drinking white

offers flavors of salted almond skin, green plum and lemon
wax. Drink now through 2018. 4,500 cases made.A.N.

91

90 Ca del BoscoCurtefranca 2011 $90

A rich
white, with bright acidity enlivening the expressive notes
of blood orange, toast, lemon curd and grapefruit granita.
Offers a sleek, aromatic finish, showing abundant spice
and herb details. Drink now through 2021. 50 cases
imported.A.N.

blossom and smoke notes accent flavors of Asian pear,

preserved lemon and dried apricot in this light- to mediumbodied white. Creamy, with a finish of moderate length.
Drink now through 2018. 500 cases imported.A.N.

Ripe pear, brioche, juicy blackberry and candied lemon

zest flavors are set on the soft and creamy mousse of this
finely balanced Franciacorta, enlivened by zesty acidity
and finishing with a lasting note of sweet pastry cream.
Drink now through 2021. 4,580 cases made.A.N.

90 Ca del BoscoSebino Pinro 2011 $90 Bright

and balanced, with refined tannins and a creamy mix of
crushed currant, wild herb, forest floor, ground spice and
dried fig flavors. Fresh and focused. Pinot Nero. Drink
now through 2021. 60 cases imported.A.N.

bright, light- to medium-bodied white, layering snappy

acidity with creamy notes of ripe apple, wet stone, verbena and ground ginger. Drink now through 2018. 8,000
cases made.A.N.

90 Fratelli BerlucchiBrut Franciacorta

Freccianera 2010 $35 Bright and balanced, this well-

90 Mamete PrevostiniValtellina Superiore

Grumello 2011 $28 This tarry red is fresh and elegant,

ITALY

knit sparkler boasts flavors of apple, biscuit, blackberry

and lemon preserves, all set on the creamy bead. Hints of
smoky mineral and spice show on the finish. Drink now
through 2019. 12,000 cases made.A.N.

with a silky mix of dried cherry, toast, fig cake and leather.
Offers a lingering, spiced finish. Drink now through 2021.
1,000 cases made.A.N.

87

Ca del BoscoFranciacorta Cuve Annamaria

Clementi 2006 $90 Crme de cassis, mandarin

Ca del BoscoFranciacorta Satn 2011 $70

Elegant and well-knit, with rich hints of pastry and glazed

apple complementing bright notes of lemon curd and grated
ginger, showing a chalky underpinning and creamy mousse.
Drink now through 2026. 50 cases imported.A.N.

90 BellavistaBrut Franciacorta Satn 2010 $54

90 Fratelli BerlucchiBrut Ros Franciacorta

Rosa Freccianera 2011 $40 Raspberry and strawberry
fruit is ripe and tangy in this expressive ros, framed by
mouthwatering acidity. The smoky undertow and accents
of candied ginger, lemon curd and biscuit ride the lively
mousse. Drink now through 2021. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

90 Ca del BoscoFranciacorta Dosage Zro

2011 $70 Vivid acidity frames this lip-smacking sparkler, with the lively bead carrying flavors of ripe melon,
candied ginger, hazelnut and lemon parfait, balanced by
a chalky underpinning that emerges on the finish. Drink
now through 2021. 75 cases imported.A.N.

90 Ca

del BoscoRos Franciacorta Cuve

Prestige NV $60 Rich notes of toasted brioche and

chopped hazelnut are layered with ripe and juicy flavors

of mulberry, black raspberry, star anise and singed orange
peel. Creamy and well-knit, with a lingering finish. Drink
now through 2021. 60 cases imported.A.N.

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90 RainoldiValtellina Superiore Crespino 2010

$34 This mouthwatering red is medium-bodied and
chewy, with tangy flavors of dried cranberry, crushed
cherry, sweet brown bread, mineral and woodsy spice that
linger on the finish. Drink now through 2021. 345 cases
made.A.N.

ITALY
Marche

91 Umani RonchiMarche Pelago 2011 $65 A

balanced, savory red, with chalky tannins and flavors of
cassis and black cherry fruit, layered with hints of forest
floor, underbrush, spice box, leather and smoke. Elegant
and well-knit, showing fruit and spice details on the
chewy, lingering finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Merlot. Best from 2018 through 2023. 1,800
cases made.A.N.

Cantina Colli RipaniPecorino Offida Pharus

Rugaro Gold 2014 $17 Light- to medium-bodied,

87

Marotti CampiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Classico Superiore Luzano 2014 $18 Almond

87 Umani RonchiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Classico Superiore Casal di Serra 2014 $17 A

Northeast / Prosecco
AcinumExtra Dry Prosecco NV $13 A bright
and expressive Prosecco, with floral, spice and exotic pineapple and guava fruit set on a fine, creamy bead. Delivers
a fresh, zesty finish. Drink now. 835 cases made.A.N.

87 Ca FurlanExtra Dry Prosecco Cuve

Beatrice NV $10 See Best Values, page 119.
87

TizianoDry Prosecco NV $13 Lime sorbet,

poached peach, Thai basil and verbena notes are set on
the soft and creamy mousse of this vibrant Prosecco, with
hints of crushed almond and pastry cream on the finish.
Drink now. 8,000 cases made.A.N.

85 ZardettoBrut Prosecco NV $16 A dry and

easy-drinking Prosecco, with an airy mousse, this offers
hints of juicy pear, verbena and almond. Drink now.
100,000 cases made.A.N.
84

PonteExtra Dry Prosecco Gaetano dAquino

NV $12 Notes of apple blossom and white peach are

layered with wet stone and pickled ginger accents in

this light, bright Prosecco, with a lively bead and a crisp
finish. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.A.N.

New Releases: Italy

84

87

MionettoExtra Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco

Superiore NV $19 Mouthwatering and balanced,

84

layered with bright acidity and a zesty bead in this balanced Prosecco. Drink now. 54,200 cases made.A.N.

83

this zesty Prosecco offers crowd-pleasing flavors of white

peach, candied pink grapefruit zest, honeysuckle and
crushed almond. Drink now. 12,000 cases imported.A.N.

pear, candied lemon zest and apple blossom notes. Drink

now. 150,000 cases imported.A.N.

ITALY

ITALY

86

StivaliExtra Dry Prosecco NV $12 Bright and

tangy, this easy-drinking Prosecco features nectarine,
mango, salted almond and smoke notes riding the lively
bead. Modest finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

RiondoProsecco Spago Nero Frizzante NV

$15 Fresh and floral, this is lightly frizzante, with poached

Northeast / Prosecco /
Conegliano Valdobbiadene

90 Angelo Rebuli & FigliExtra Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore NV $34 Well-knit and
balanced, with lively acidity backing the flavors of ripe
fig, juicy green pear, ground ginger, stone and slivered
almond. Creamy in texture, with a lingering, floral finish.
A textbook example. Drink now through 2019. 40 cases
imported.A.N.

90 Villa SandiBrut Valdobbiadene Superiore di

Cartizze Vigna La Rivetta NV $45 Fine and creamy,
with rich notes of glazed apricot, salted almond skin and
lemon parfait, this is accented by a hint of guava and underscored by a vein of smoky minerality. Fresh finish.
Drink now through 2019. 100 cases imported.A.N.

89 Desiderio Bisol & FigliBrut Valdobbiadene

Prosecco Superiore Crede 2014 $26 This linear,
minerally version offers a smoky underpinning and a subtle
mix of apple peel, baking spices, lemon zest and pickled
ginger on the vivacious bead. The firm, focused finish
shows a lingering hint of almond skin. Drink now through
2019. 20,833 cases made.A.N.

Rive della ChiesaProsecco Treviso NV

$12 Tangerine, almond biscotti and nectarine notes are

ITALY

Northeast / Prosecco / Treviso

MionettoBrut Prosecco Treviso Prestige
Collection NV $14 A well-spiced Prosecco, with ripe

Piedmont / Barbaresco

94

Cascina LuisinBarbaresco Rabaj 2011 $60

green pear and plum fruit layered with crisp acidity and
accents of lemon zest and grated ginger. Moderate finish.
Drink now. 325,000 cases imported.A.N.

Expressive and structured, displaying black cherry, black

currant, violet, tobacco and mineral aromas and flavors.
Intense, with abundant yet ripe tannins, showing enough
sweet fruit for balance. Fine length. Best from 2017
through 2032. 150 cases made.B.S.

86

MionettoExtra Dry Prosecco Treviso

Prestige Collection NV $14 Crunchy white peach

94

and pear fruit is layered with hints of wet stone, pickled

ginger and almond skin in this lively, accessible Prosecco.
Drink now. 4,000 cases imported.A.N.

93 Produttori del BarbarescoBarbaresco 2012

$37 See Highly Recommended, page 117.

86

Terra SerenaExtra Dry Prosecco Treviso

NV $13 Fresh and floral, this delicate Prosecco offers

a subtle mix of green pear, ground ginger, slivered almond,

stone and verbena flavors. Drink now. 100,000 cases
made.A.N.

86

Villa SandiBrut Prosecco Treviso Il Fresco

NV $16 Lightly juicy and floral, this well-knit Prosecco
offers a fresh, focused profile of ripe pear, candied lemon
zest, sliced almond and ginger. Creamy. Drink now. 30,000
cases imported.A.N.

85

Cantine MaschioBrut Prosecco Treviso NV

Falletto di Bruno GiacosaBarbaresco Asili

Riserva 2011 $400 See Collectibles, page 117.

93 CigliutiBarbaresco Vie Erte 2011 $55 Firmly

structured, this is lush and powerful, delivering intense
flavors of cherry, plum, spice, briar and iron. Still needs
time for the elements to come together. The finish is long
and fresh. Best from 2018 through 2030. 500 cases
made.B.S.
93

RoagnaBarbaresco Paj 2010 $95 This is

beginning to reveal some tertiary characteristics, with
spice, mineral and leather aromas and flavors surrounding
a core of cherry and raspberry. There are still tannins to
shed, but the lasting impression is of sweet fruit. Drink
now through 2025. 742 cases made.B.S.

$13

Crisp and stony, with floral, white peach and

slivered almond notes riding the lively bead. Drink now.
2100000 cases made.A.N.

88 BellendaExtra Dry Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Miraval 2015 $19 Fresh
and balanced, featuring a stony undertow and hints of
ground spice and mandarin orange peel accenting flavors
of juicy Dijon pear and sliced almond. Creamy, with a
tangy finish. Drink now through 2018. 15,000 cases
made.A.N.

88 Col VetorazBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco

Superiore 2014 $18 Sleek, with a minerally undertow and flavors of crunchy white peach, apple blossom,
salted almond skin and lemon pith riding the fine bead.
Drink now through 2018. 20,000 cases made.A.N.

Opera Wine Imports

proudly introduces

88

Nino FrancoBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco

Superiore NV $26 An harmonious sparkler, with a

fine, creamy bead and aromatic threads of smoke and ground

spice unraveling through the flavors of glazed apple, stone,
chopped almond and lemon sorbet. A crowd-pleaser. Drink
now through 2018. 25,000 cases made.A.N.

180 viniculturists
tending
to 740 select acres
with their hands,
minds,
and hearts
to produce fine wines
from Piedmont.

88

Nino FrancoBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco

Superiore Rustico NV $18 A balanced sparkler, fresh
and stony, with a subtle mix of crunchy white peach, Thai
basil, sliced almond and lemon pith, set on the refined
mousse. Drink now. 50,000 cases made.A.N.

88

ZardettoDry Conegliano Valdobbiadene

Zeta 2014 $20 This fresh, floral Prosecco shows fine
balance and flavors of white peach, jasmine, star anise
and pear that are bright and expressive, riding the lively
bead. Drink now through 2018. 10,000 cases made.A.N.

www.vitecolte.it
Barolo, Italy

87

BellendaBrut Conegliano Valdobbiadene

Prosecco Superiore San Fermo 2015 $19 Kiwifruit

and cherry notes are bright and tangy in this open-knit

and balanced sparkler, set on a lively bead and framed by
firm acidity and notes of mineral, orange peel and anise.
Drink now. 25,000 cases made.A.N.

87 BorgoluceBrut Valdobbiadene Prosecco

Superiore Rive di Collalto 2014 $28 A dry and
balanced version, with savory hints of salted almond and
stone, layered with crunchy green pear, anise and preserved lemon notes. Drink now. 340 cases imported.A.N.

Vite Colte
La Casa in Collina
Barbaresco 12
DOCG

Vite Colte
Paesi Tuoi
Barolo 11
DOCG

Vite Colte
Essenze
Barolo 04
Riserva
DOCG

Vite Colte
La Luna e i Fal
Barbera dAsti
Superiore 13
DOCG

For excellent reviews and more details, go to www.operawineimports.com

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New Releases: Italy

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CigliutiBarbaresco Serraboella 2011 $75

This red is enticing for the creamy texture that embraces

the flavors of cherry, plum, leather and underbrush.
Theres power, along with dense, tightly wound tannins
that lend a burly feel. Best from 2018 through 2029. 600
cases made.B.S.

92

GajaBarbaresco 2012 $225 New oak adds

vanilla and toast to the expressive cherry and berry fruit
in this dense red, presenting a layer of tannins that will
require time to integrate. Much better with air, staying
fresh, focused and long. Best from 2018 through 2028.
2,500 cases made.B.S.

92 PaitinBarbaresco Serra 2012 $42 A bright,

juicy red, exhibiting cherry, raspberry, licorice, spice and
floral flavors. Becomes more tannic, lingering on the moderately long finish. Decant now or cellar for two to three
years. Best from 2018 through 2030. 1,000 cases
made.B.S.
92

PaitinBarbaresco Sor Paitin 2012 $52

Sweet cherry, plum, eucalyptus, tar and underbrush notes

intermingle in this lush, dense and beefy style. All the
pieces are there, but this needs time to come together.
Stays fresh and long. Best from 2018 through 2030. 1,500
cases made.B.S.

92

Bruno RoccaBarbaresco 2012 $50 This is

tightly wound, with a matrix of tannins supporting the
cherry, strawberry, spice and tobacco flavors. Fine and balanced. Tar and earth accents chime in on the long finish.
Best from 2018 through 2028. 960 cases made.B.S.

91

Marziano AbbonaBarbaresco 2011 $62

ITALY

93 Paolo ScavinoBarolo Rocche dellAnnunziata

Riserva 2009 $150 Despite gruff tannins, this red is

90 Giacomo ConternoBarbera dAlba Vigna

vibrant and focused, exhibiting cherry and plum fruit in

addition to mineral and eucalyptus notes. Stays firm and
persistent on the finish. Best from 2019 through 2033.
450 cases made.B.S.

Piedmont / Barbera
Cerretta 2013 $60 Sweet vanilla and smoke notes
frame the black cherry fruit, while light tannins and lively
acidity provide support. Tangy, with fine length. Drink
now through 2019. 80 cases imported.B.S.

90 Giuseppe Mascarello & FiglioBarbera dAlba

Superiore Vigna Santo Stefano 2010 $50 Rich
and mellow, this red offers plum, blackberry, violet and
mineral aromas and flavors. Powerful, yet balanced and
mouthwatering, with a long, eucalyptus-tinged finish.
Drink now through 2019. 216 cases made.B.S.

90 Olim BaudaBarbera dAsti Superiore Nizza

2011 $40 A fresh, blackberry- and raspberry-laced red,
with a firm structure lending support and longevity. Balanced and long, showing the power to stand up to grilled
beef, lamb or sauted duck breast. Drink now through
2019. 1,200 cases made.B.S.

89

CoppoBarbera dAsti Camp du Rouss 2012

$23 This is ripe, with a velvety texture surrounding the

black cherry and raspberry flavors. Hints of spice and

chocolate add depth as the finish lingers. Drink now
through 2018. 750 cases imported.B.S.

88

Bruna GrimaldiBarbera dAlba Superiore

Scassa 2012 $24 A rich, polished style, this red is
stitched with black cherry, blackberry and leather flavors.
Shows some grip on the lingering finish. Drink now
through 2018. 450 cases imported.B.S.

88

Harmonious, offering sweet cherry, strawberry and licorice flavors, shaded by baking spice notes. Long and polished, with richness and a mineral element on the
aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2028. 2,000 cases
imported.B.S.

are plenty of earth and leather notes to match the cherry

and plum fruit in this rich red. Vibrant, with a moderately
long finish. Drink now. 4,300 cases made.B.S.

91 Pasquale PelisseroBarbaresco Bricco San Giuliano 2012

$38 This red offers well-defined fla-

The blackberry and candied cherry flavors are intense and

the earthy tannins leave a pinched impression. Needs
some fatty food. Drink now. 3,500 cases made.B.S.

vors of cherry and strawberry, packing

a punch of dense tannins. Turns increasingly austere as it develops on the
palate, not a bad sign for a young Nebbiolo. Best from 2018 through 2029.
800 cases imported.B.S.

Villa SparinaBarbera del Monferrato 2013

91

87

87

MazzoniBarbera Piemonte 2012 $18 There

Olim BaudaBarbera dAsti La Villa 2013 $17

$20

ORNELLA PELISSERO
Owner & Winemaker

Bruno RoccaBarbaresco Coparossa 2012

Bright cherry and strawberry flavors fall in line

with the vibrant acidity in this light-bodied red, which is
crisp and moderately long. Drink now. 4,000 cases
imported.B.S.

ITALY

Piedmont / Barolo

$80 An elegant, lacy version, with cherry, strawberry

and floral notes that match beautifully with the firm structure. Just needs a year or two. The minerally finish has
grip. Best from 2017 through 2026. 315 cases made.B.S.

97 Giacomo ConternoBarolo Monfortino

Riserva 2008 $675 See Collectibles, page 117.

90 Cascina LuisinBarbaresco Paolin 2011

95

$60

Cascina LuisinBarolo Lon 2010 $67

Offers more balsamic than fruit notes, evoking tobacco,

tar and leafy underbrush rather than cherry or plum.
Nevertheless, this shows sweetness and cohesion. Fresh
and long on the finish. Best from 2018 through 2029. 100
cases made.B.S.

Offers a beautiful nose of sweet and salty licorice, with

flavors of fading cherry, leather, tobacco and spice. Complex and maturing, yet the tannins and acidity keep this
fresh. The lingering finish evokes tobacco and mineral.
Best from 2020 through 2036. 50 cases made.B.S.

90 PaitinBarbaresco Sor Paitin Vecchie Vigne

Riserva 2010 $95 This red offers mature sweet cherry

95

and floral notes, but also tar, leather, tobacco and underbrush flavors. The dry, chalky finish is long, with elements
of sweet fruit for balance. Best from 2017 through 2026.
417 cases made.B.S.

90 PrunottoBarbaresco Bric Turot 2012

$71

This starts out vibrant, revealing cherry, spice, tobacco

and underbrush notes before firming up on the finish. Remains balanced and elegant, with an aftertaste of cherry
and medicinal herbs. Best from 2017 through 2024. 400
cases imported.B.S.

90 PunsetBarbaresco Campo Quadro 2009

$NA Aromas of cherry, tar and licorice are starting to
emerge, followed by sweet, decaying cherry fruit on the
palate. Packs punch on the back end, with solid grip on
the long finish. Drink now through 2022.B.S.

Giuseppe Mascarello & FiglioBarolo

Monprivato 2011 $150 See Collectibles, page 117.

95

G.D. VajraBarolo Bricco delle Viole 2011 $70

See Highly Recommended, page 117.

94

Giacomo ConternoBarolo Cerretta 2011

$225 A taut, linear style, with a solid structure keeping

the cherry, licorice, tobacco and stone flavors in a firm
grip. Though austere now, this has intensity and personality, ending with a long aftertaste of fruit and mineral.
Best from 2019 through 2035. 70 cases imported.B.S.

93

Giacomo ConternoBarolo Francia 2011 $225

Mint, cherry, leather and spice notes are married to dense,

assertive tannins in this red. Shows an underlying vein of
mineral as this builds to the long finish. Tight and vibrant.
Best from 2019 through 2033. 1,666 cases made.B.S.

93 Giovanni SordoBarolo Perno 2011 $65 A

saline, savory character pervades this red, with cherry,
plum, leather and tobacco flavors propped up by beefy
tannins. A touch of herbs emerges as this persists on the
long, minerally finish. Best from 2018 through 2032. 650
cases made.B.S.
93

G.D. VajraBarolo Albe 2011 $38 A mix of

eucalyptus, cherry, leafy and tar aromas and flavors are
allied to a moderately firm structure in this balanced red.
The finish is long and walks the line between fresh cherry,
spice and earth notes. Best from 2018 through 2032. 5,500
cases made.B.S.

92 Mauro MolinoBarolo La Serra 2011 $75 Very

aromatic, offering eucalyptus, mint and licorice accents
to the cherry and strawberry fruit. Rich, with a glycerol
texture and civilized tannins, this delivers a lingering aftertaste of mentholated herbs. Best from 2017 through
2028. 230 cases made.B.S.
92 RoagnaBarolo Pira 2010 $95 A ripe style,
whose plum and cherry flavors are accented by mentholtinged herb, tobacco and tar notes. Finishes on the burly
side, with dusty, mouthcoating tannins. Best from 2019
through 2030. 750 cases made.B.S.
92

Giovanni SordoBarolo Monvigliero 2011 $65

Rose, strawberry and wild cherry aromas and flavors highlight this delicate yet firmly structured Barolo. Vibrant,
this tightens up by the finish, showing potential for aging.
Fine length. Best from 2018 through 2032. 750 cases
made.B.S.

91 Bruna GrimaldiBarolo
Camilla 2011 $43 A sinewy
style, offering cherry and savory
underbrush notes, this is balanced
between the fruit and structure,
with a lengthy, spicy finish. Best
from 2018 through 2030. 1,000
cases imported.B.S.

91

BRUNA GRIMALDI,
FRANCO FIORINO
& SIMONE FIORINO
Owners & Winemakers

Francesco Rinaldi & FigliBarolo 2011 $50

A vibrant, elegant 2011, this exhibits cherry, currant and

spice flavors, with hints of tea and tobacco. Stays fresh
and persistent, if not that intense or complex overall. Best
from 2018 through 2030. 2,000 cases made.B.S.

91 Francesco Rinaldi & FigliBarolo Cannubi

2011 $65 A pretty red, boasting floral, strawberry,
cherry and tar flavors. Picks up light herbal notes as this
firms on the finish. Starts elegant, finishing with grip. Best
from 2018 through 2029. 650 cases made.B.S.

91

Giovanni SordoBarolo Gabutti 2011 $65

This is tight, but also leans toward the dry, tannic side.
The cherry, spice, tar and mineral flavors form a tight
core. Fresh and long, with mouthcoating tannins. Best
from 2019 through 2035. 450 cases made.B.S.

90 Francesco Rinaldi & FigliBarolo Brunate

2011 $60 This is elegant, with a slight chewiness underscoring the rose, cherry, licorice and tobacco notes.
Firms up, with dusty tannins and tar accents lining the
finish. Best from 2018 through 2029. 650 cases made.B.S.

90 Giovanni SordoBarolo 2011 $40 A mix of

leather, licorice, cherry, earth and mineral notes marks
this intense red. Firm and austere, with a base of tannins
defining the lengthy finish. Vivid acidity keeps this
focused. Best from 2019 through 2033. 3,375 cases
made.B.S.

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New Releases: Italy

ITALY

Piedmont / Other Red

91

Aldo ConternoNebbiolo Langhe Il Favot

2012 $57 This is elegant, revealing kirsch, raspberry,
licorice and earth flavors, framed by oak spice. Finegrained tannins prevail on the lingering finish. Drink now
through 2020. 250 cases imported.B.S.

90 MalvirRoero Renesio Riserva 2011

85 CoppoGavi La Rocca 2014 $19 Rose and

apricot aromas and flavors mark this fruity white, which
is succulent and straightforward. Drink now. 1,600 cases
imported.B.S.
85

MalvirRoero Arneis Vigna Saglietto 2013

$26 Tart apple, quince and straw flavors mark this slim

white, which persists with hints of mineral and earth.

Drink now. 4,000 cases made.B.S.

$43

This exhibits sweet berry, licorice and tobacco flavors.

Intense and fresh, with dusty tannins on the finish. Shows
fine length and a minerally aftertaste. Drink now through
2020. 800 cases made.B.S.

ITALY
Puglia

91

$50

TormarescaAglianico Castel del Monte

Bocca di Lupo 2011 $70 An elegant red thats tightly

Features spice and dried cherry flavors, with accents of

tobacco and earth. Linear and harmonious, presenting a
refreshing spice- and mineral-tinged finish. Drink now
through 2020. 4,300 cases made.B.S.

knit today, with an underpinning of tarry smoke and flavors

of crme de cassis, olive tapenade, dried marjoram and subtle mocha, framed by sculpted tannins. Chewy finish. Best
from 2017 through 2026. 250 cases imported.A.N.

90 G.D.

90 Tenute

90 TravagliniGattinara Tre Vigne 2010

VajraNebbiolo Langhe 2014 $26

A light-bodied style, this cherry-, strawberry- and floralflavored red is balanced, energetic and mouthwatering.
Long and resonant on the finish, with a chalky feel. Drink
now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.B.S.

di EmraPrimitivo di Manduria
Antica Masseria del Sigillo 2014 $17 See Smart

Buys, page 118.

90 Masseria Li VeliPrimitivo Salento Montecoco

2012 $20 A rich, supple red, with fine tannins fram-

89 TravagliniGattinara Riserva 2010 $60 This

is elegant and still firm, with fading sweet cherry, strawberry, leather, earth and tobacco notes. Moderate length.
Drink now through 2019. 5,800 cases made.B.S.

ing the tarry underpinning and flavors of raspberry coulis,

black olive tapenade, singed orange peel and ground pink
peppercorn. Offers a lasting, spiced finish. Drink now
through 2022. 1,600 cases made.A.N.

88

90 Masseria Li VeliSalento 2011 $40

AzeliaDolcetto dAlba Bricco dellOriolo

2013 $15 A vibrant style, this evokes black cherry,

black currant and violet flavors. Pure and mouthwatering,

with a lingering aftertaste of blackberry and spice. Drink
now through 2018. 1,166 cases made.B.S.

88

Giuseppe NadaDolcetto dAlba 2013 $18

Perfumed with violet and blackberry notes, showing a

touch of peppercorn. Fruity and firm, with light grip on
the moderate finish. Drink now through 2018. 600 cases
made.B.S.

88

Paolo ScavinoVino Rosso L2014A 2014 $15

Rich and fruity, with moderately firm tannins buoying the

black cherry, blackberry and violet aromas and flavors.
Good length. Drink now through 2019. 1,665 cases
made.B.S.

87

Paolo ScavinoDolcetto dAlba 2014 $15

A light, fluid style, with candied cherry and berry flavors.

Tails off a little on the finish, yet theres still grip here.
Drink now. 830 cases made.B.S.

Rich dried
cherry and date fruit is accented by spice, mocha and licorice drop notes in this medium- to full-bodied red. Finely
balanced, with chewy tannins lending grip on the aromatic finish. Negroamaro and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink
now through 2026. 400 cases made.A.N.

89

CnteleSalice Salentino Riserva 2012 $15

A well-spiced, harmonious red, with supple tannins and

flavors of plumped cherry, aromatic forest floor, fig paste
and mineral. Elegant. Drink now through 2026. 20,835
cases made.A.N.

89

IonisPrimitivo di Manduria Ater 2011 $19

Silky and medium-bodied, this offers flavors of fig cake,

smoke and date, with accents of ground anise, dried cranberry and mocha. Juicy. Drink now through 2021. 2,500
cases made.A.N.

89

Paolo PetrilliDaunia Lucera Fortuita 2012

$20 Abundant herb and spice notes leap from the glass

Piedmont / White

here, with mulled cherry and strawberry emerging on the

palate. Medium-bodied and well-knit, with light, dusty
tannins and juicy acidity for structure. Sangiovese, Aglianico, Montepulciano and Nero di Troia. Drink now
through 2022. 1,000 cases made.A.N.

90 La ScolcaDAntan 2004

88

ITALY

Masseria Li VeliPrimitivo Salento Orion 2013

$100 This has

matured nicely, with vanilla and oak notes melding with
peach and apple flavors, along with hints of pine and beeswax. Fresh and long, presenting harmony and intensity.
Cortese. Drink now. 200 cases imported.B.S.

Herb and spice notes open and close this sleek,

medium-bodied red, with light tannins defining the silky
flavors of crushed black raspberry, dried fig and smoke.
Drink now through 2019. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

89

88

87

tinged mineral notes are finely balanced in this light- to

medium-bodied red, with juicy acidity, lightly chewy tannins and accents of fig paste and ground spice. Drink now
through 2019. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

La GiustinianaGavi Lugarara 2014 $18 Crisp

and tangy, boasting lemon, apple and stone hints. Subtle
yet persistent, with fine length. Drink now. 10,000 cases
made.B.S.
BanfiGavi Principessa Gavia 2014 $16

Peach, apple and earth flavors highlight this juicy white.

Fresh and balanced, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink
now. 20,500 cases made.B.S.

87

Pio CesareCortese di Gavi 2014 $23

Piquant lemon, apple and mineral flavors are focused and

long in this sleek white. Finishes with a chalky sensation.
Drink now. 1,837 cases imported.B.S.

86

Giordano LombardoGavi Vigne di San

Martino 2014 $17 This is round, offering apple and

pear flavors, with a hint of almond. Open, with a moderately long finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases imported.B.S.

130

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$13

Masseria Li VeliSalice Salentino Passamante

2013 $13 Plumped cherry, aromatic herb and smoke-

88

Masseria Li VeliSalice Salentino Pezzo

Morgana Riserva 2012 $20 Pungent herb and spice

notes lead to flavors of dried currant, black licorice and

fig cake in this chewy red, with a fresh, mineral-tinged
finish. Drink now through 2019. 1,600 cases made.A.N.

88

Masseria Li VeliVerdeca Valle dItria Askos

2014 $18 Fresh and focused, this light- to medium-

bodied white offers wax and crushed almond notes, layered with yellow plum, saline and apricot flavors. Drink
now through 2019. 2,500 cases made.A.N.

88 Vigne & ViniPrimitivo Salento 12 e Mezzo

2014 $16 This well-balanced red is fresh and juicy,
with a silky palate of raspberry coulis and currant fruit,
accented by notes of wild herb, ground white pepper and
anise. Very drinkable. Drink now through 2019. 25,000
cases made.A.N.

88

Conti ZeccaSalice Salentino Cantalupi 2013

$18 A creamy red, with light tannins and an accessible

mix of plumped cherry and dried strawberry flavors and

hints of underbrush and cocoa powder. Drink now through
2019. 500 cases imported.A.N.

87

PetraioSangiovese Puglia 2014

$10

Theres a sanguine edge to this lightly juicy, mediumbodied red, with hints of leather and spice accenting
the ripe flavors of plumped cherry and wild strawberry.
Features a subtle herbal finish. Drink now through 2018.
1,650 cases made.A.N.

87 Vigne & ViniNegroamaro Salento 12 e Mezzo

2014 $16 A bright and tangy red, with cranberry and
cherry fruit, accented by hints of wild herb and loamy
earth. Drink now through 2019. 25,000 cases made.A.N.

86

Masseria Li VeliFiano Puglia 2014 $12

A clean-cut white, with a smoky mineral base and accents

of Asian pear, lemon peel and slivered almond. Drink now
through 2019. 2,500 cases made.A.N.

86 Masseria Li VeliNegroamaro Salento

Primonero 2013 $13 Baked currant, smoke and
bresaola notes are layered with lightly juicy acidity in this
chewy red, with a fragrant finish. Drink now through 2018.
5,000 cases made.A.N.

86 TakenPuglia Available 2013 $13 A fresh,

easy-drinking red, with black cherry and spice box flavors,
accented by hints of loamy earth and mocha. Sangiovese,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now. 5,000 cases
made.A.N.
85

Masseria Li VeliSalento Rosato 2014 $11

Creamy and well-spiced, this fresh ros shows steeped

plum, white cherry and almond notes, with hints of dried
herb and orange peel on the finish. Drink now. 850 cases
made.A.N.

ITALY

Sicily / Red

93 PassopisciaroTerre Siciliane Contrada R

2013 $55 This shows lovely harmony to the silky palate, which carries the ripe strawberry and crushed black
raspberry fruit, accented by notes of star anise, loamy earth
and fig. Long and mouthwatering on the minerally finish.
Nerello Mascalese. Drink now through 2026. 240 cases
made.A.N.

92 PassopisciaroTerre Siciliane Contrada G

2013 $57 Licorice and tar notes underscore the dried
cherry, sandalwood and grilled herb notes in this dense,
finely knit red. Well-balanced, with a core of aromatic spice
and mineral, this should open nicely with air or short-term
cellaring. Drink now through 2026. 250 cases made.A.N.

92 PassopisciaroTerre Siciliane Franchetti 2013

$149 An inky red, boasting a dark and brooding profile
of brambly crushed berry fruit, wild herb, espresso and
tarry mineral. Dense and juicy, with chalky tannins that
firm up the well-spiced finish. Petit Verdot. Best from
2018 through 2026. 280 cases made.A.N.

91

COSCerasuolo di Vittoria Classico delle

Fontane 2010 $70 A rich, tarry red, set in a silky,
medium-bodied frame, with bright acidity enlivening flavors of crushed currant, licorice string, wild herb and
singed orange peel. Well-meshed, showing lots of ground
spice on the chewy finish. Drink now through 2021. 400
cases made.A.N.

91

COSVittoria Pithos Rosso 2014 $44

Fresh and harmonious, this medium-bodied red offers

a vivacious mix of ripe black cherry and strawberry fruit,

New Releases: Italy

with hints of wild herb and loamy earth. Not over-thetop or overt, but theres an energy driving this to the chewy
finish. Nero dAvola and Frappato. Drink now through
2024. 1,900 cases made.A.N.

91

Arianna OcchipintiFrappato Terre Siciliane

2013 $43 A bright and juicy Frappato, finely knit and
expressive, offering an aromatic herbal overtone that plays
off the ripe raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, accented
by hints of sandalwood and ground white pepper. Drink
now through 2021. 984 cases imported.A.N.

91

PassopisciaroTerre Siciliane Contrada C

2013 $54 Wood smoke and forest floor notes enrich
this grippy red, underscoring flavors of dried cherry, dried
thyme, bergamot and ground peppercorn. Fresh and focused, with a lasting, aromatic finish. Drink now through
2026. 240 cases made.A.N.

90 PlanetaSyrah Sicilia Maroccoli 2010

$40

Rich and expressive, delivering notes of green olive, rosemary, grilled beef and fig cake set on a silky palate and
framed by supple tannins. This features a lightly juicy,
mocha-laced finish. Drink now through 2021. 13,333 cases
made.A.N.

90 Le

Vigne di EliEtna
Moganazzi - Volta Sciara 2013
$43 Rich and creamy, offering

mocha and spice accents to flavors

of plumped cherry, smoke and plum
cake. This is well-knit and fresh,
ending with a grippy finish. Drink
now through 2023. 233 cases
made.A.N.

MARCO DE GRAZIA
Owner

91

PassopisciaroTerre Siciliane Contrada P

2013 $68 A seamless red, light- to medium-bodied

89

and fresh, with chewy tannins framing flavors of raspberry

and black cherry fruit, woodsy spice and a rich streak of
smoky mineral. The lingering finish shows traces of spice
and herb. Drink now through 2023. 160 cases made.A.N.

red offers supple tannins dressed in plum pudding, tartinged smoke, cassis, mocha and spice notes. Well-knit,
with light grip on the juicy finish. Drink now through
2021. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

89

Le Vigne di EliEtna 2014 $24 Sandalwood

and spice notes accent the plumped cherry, fresh earth
and fig notes in this bright, medium-bodied red. Offers a
mouthwatering finish, with light grip. Drink now through
2021. 1,000 cases made.A.N.

90 COSCerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2013 $40 A bright

and elegant red, with fine tannins
framing flavors of crushed mulberry
and dried fig, accented by hints of
woodsy spice and fresh earth. This
does a good impression of a NuitsSt.-Georges. Drink now through
2021. 6,000 cases made.A.N.

GIAMBATTISTA CILIA
& GIUSTO OCCHIPINTI
Owners & Winemakers

90 COSFrappato Terre Siciliane 2014 $30 A

vibrant red, with light tannins framing flavors of dried
marjoram and thyme, crushed currant, wild strawberry
and star anise. Finely knit, offering a lasting finish. Drink
now through 2021. 1,200 cases made.A.N.
90 COSTerre Siciliane Maldafrica 2012

$40

The black currant and wild strawberry fruit is both ripe

and tangy in this lively red, framed by grippy tannins and
accented by abundant grilled herb, olive and sweet brown
bread notes. Offers a spicy, mineral-tinged finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2026. 600
cases made.A.N.

90 DonnafugataSicilia Mille e Una Notte 2011

$89 Expressive flavors of cassis, fig cake, dried mint and
espresso are set in an elegant, medium- to full-bodied
frame, layered with refined tannins and accents of oak
spice and graphite that linger on the finish. Rich but polished. Drink now through 2026. 3,750 cases made.A.N.

90 Feudo

Feudo MaccariNero dAvola Terre Siciliane

Noto 2014 $16 Balanced and open-knit, this creamy

MaccariSicilia Saia 2013 $33

Medium-bodied and stylish, with fine-grained tannins

married to a rich palate of chocolate pudding, crme de
cassis, dried marjoram and graphite notes. Lightly grippy,
but refined overall. Nero dAvola. Drink now through
2023. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

90 PassopisciaroTerre Siciliane Contrada S

2013 $55 Aromatic herb, incense and mineral accents
lace this finely knit red, with mouthwatering acidity and
supple tannins structuring the layers of crushed cherry,
tar, sandalwood and spice box. Drink now through 2023.
160 cases made.A.N.

90 PlanetaNoto Santa Cecilia 2011

$41 A
pure beam of wild strawberry flavor shows dried thyme, rose
petal, smoky mineral and star anise hints in this mediumbodied red, with supple tannins on the finish. Nero dAvola.
Drink now through 2021. 11,100 cases made.A.N.

90 PlanetaSicilia Burdese 2010 $40

A harmonious, creamy red, with bright blackberry, fig paste,

espresso and smoke notes. Lightly juicy, featuring fine
tannins that emerge on the herbed finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2021.
5,800 cases made.A.N.

88 Feudo di Santa TresaCerasuolo di Vittoria

Classico 2013 $17 An elegant red, with bright acidity enlivening the black raspberry and wild strawberry
fruit. This shows accents of fragrant smoke, spice box
and underbrush. Drink now through 2019. 4,165 cases
made.A.N.

88

PlanetaCerasuolo di Vittoria 2014 $24

This light- to medium-bodied and well-knit red features

flavors of strawberries and cream, red licorice, smoke and
grilled herb, with a lightly juicy finish. Drink now through
2021. 13,300 cases made.A.N.

86 Feudo di Santa TresaNero dAvola Terre

Siciliane Purato 2014 $13 A round and easy-drinking
red, light- to medium-bodied and fresh, with abundant
herb and spice accents to the baked cherry and black currant fruit. Light mocha details show on the finish. Drink
now through 2018. 16,665 cases made.A.N.

86

PlanetaSicilia La Segreta Red 2014 $14

Balanced and easy-drinking, with creamy plum, smoke

and dried herb notes. Nero dAvola, Merlot, Syrah and
Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 47,750 cases made.A.N.

91
2013 Shiraz

PTS

ITALY

Sicily / White

91

COSTerre Siciliane Pithos Bianco 2014 $44

A bracing white, showing rapier acidity and light tannins,

with lovely aromas and flavors of tea rose, dried marjoram, singed orange peel, myrrh, almond skin and steeped
white cherry that lead to a firm and chewy finish. For fans
of this distinctive style. Grecanico. Drink now through
2024. 500 cases made.A.N.

90 DonnafugataContessa

Entellina White

Chiarand 2012 $45

An elegant, medium-bodied
white, with a rich, creamy palate of glazed apple, smoked
hazelnut, apricot tart and lemon parfait. Finely balanced,
this offers a lasting finish, showing accents of toast and
candied ginger. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2022.
2,083 cases made.A.N.

90 I Custodi delle Vigne dellEtnaEtna White

Ante 2013 $46 Rich, with petrol and mineral notes
on the nose, this medium-bodied white is framed by sleek
acidity, showing flavors of kiwifruit, fresh tarragon, ground
white pepper and tangy hint of passion fruit. Zesty finish.
Drink now through 2021. 460 cases made.A.N.

April 30, 2015

Since 1886, 5th generation

Angove family winemakers
have been crafting
premium McLaren Vale wines
from South Australia.
@AngoveWine | angove.com.au
2016 Trinchero Imports, St. Helena, CA 94574

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90 Arianna

OcchipintiTerre Siciliane White

SP68 2014 $29 Spice and herb notes leap from the

glass in this expressive, medium-bodied white. The creamy

palate offers notes of melon, salted almond skin, bergamot
and guava, framed by well-knit acidity. Intriguing.
Albanello and Zibbibo. Drink now through 2021. 784
cases imported.A.N.

90 Le Vigne di EliEtna White 2014

$24 Fine

and creamy, with a floral overtone and a smoky underpinning to the flavors of glazed apricot, ground cardamom,
almond skin and lemon parfait. Well-knit, presenting a
lingering, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2021.
292 cases made.A.N.

89

PlanetaChardonnay Menfi 2014

$41

Light- to medium-bodied and balanced, this fresh and

easy-drinking version offers a round, creamy palate of Gala
apple, chopped hazelnut, lemon curd and white peach.
Drink now through 2019. 25,000 cases made.A.N.

87

PlanetaSicilia La Segreta White 2014 $14

A zesty white, easy-drinking and fresh, with a creamy mix

of pineapple, melon, ground ginger and stone notes. Grecanico and Chardonnay with Viognier and Fiano. Drink
now. 50,000 cases made.A.N.

86

VitianoUmbria Rosato 2014 $12 Fresh and

juicy, with wild strawberry, spiced plum and red licorice
flavors. Hints of aromatic herb and spice show on the
finish. Drink now. 3,300 cases made.A.N.

ITALY

Veneto / Dessert & White

92

MaculanBreganze Torcolato 2011 $40/375ml

Rich and creamy, with truffle and butterscotch notes

underscoring flavors of peaches and cream, glazed apple,
chopped hazelnut and crystallized honey. Well-balanced,
presenting a lasting, spiced finish. Drink now through
2026. 1,500 cases made.A.N.

92

SuaviaRecioto di Soave Acinatium 2009

$55/375ml In form and weight, this vibrant sweetie is

graceful and svelte, packed with glazed nectarine, candied

pink grapefruit zest, butterscotch, praline, cognac, floral,
herb and spice notes. The long, lasting finish is fresh overall and creamy in texture. Drink now through 2026. 20
cases imported.A.N.

91

SuaviaGarganega Veronese Le Rive 2011

Umbria

$30 Rich and creamy, offering a silky palate of pineapple cream pie, candied ginger, lemon curd and toasted
coconut. Lively acidity provides balance and focus. The
juicy finish echoes spicy mineral notes. Drink now through
2021. 60 cases imported.A.N.

94

TabarriniMontefalco Sagrantino Colle alle

Macchie 2011 $70 See Highly Recommended, page

91

117.

mouthwatering acidity framing a finely meshed palate of

ripe nectarine and apple blossom flavors, showing hints of
blanched almond, tarragon and ground cardamom. Drink
now through 2021. 400 cases imported.A.N.

ITALY

92

TabarriniMontefalco Sagrantino Campo alla

Cerqua 2011 $60 Theres a rich, sanguine edge to the

ripe flavors of spiced blackberry, currant, smoke, fig paste

and herbed olive in this silky red, framed by sculpted tannins that firm the finish. Best from 2019 through 2026.
165 cases made.A.N.

92

TabarriniMontefalco Sagrantino Colle

Grimaldesco 2011 $45 A rich red, with real muscle

from the burly tannins, featuring a core of iron-tinged

minerality and flavors of fig cake, raspberry ganache, wild
herb, olive and ground peppercorn that should become
more expressive with time in the cellar. Best from 2019
through 2029. 1,100 cases made.A.N.

90 FalescoCabernet Umbria Marciliano 2010

$50

An elegant red, with well-spiced fruit notes of

plumped cherry and dried fig, offering accents of chocolate pudding, graphite, wild herb and black olive tapenade,
all framed by supple tannins. Well-knit and lightly juicy,
with a chewy finish. Drink now through 2025. 500 cases
made.A.N.

90 TabarriniMontefalco 2012

$29

A dense,
juicy red, with chalky tannins cloaked in sappy black
cherry, dried thyme, marjoram, fig and bresaola notes.
Burly, with spice and tar accents on the finish. Best from
2019 through 2014. 1,900 cases made.A.N.

88

FalescoCabernet Sauvignon Umbria Tellus

2013 $16 A smoky underpinning and dusty tannins

frame flavors of crushed black currant, garrigue, graphite

and olive in this bright, medium- to full-bodied red. Best
from 2017 through 2023. 6,667 cases made.A.N.

87

LungarottiUmbria White Torre di Giano

2014 $16 Balanced and tangy, with apple and floral

SuaviaSoave Classico Monte Carbonare

2013 $30 A lithe, sleek and minerally white, with

90 MaculanVeneto Dindarello 2014 $22/375ml

Vibrant and finely balanced, this lightly sweet dessert wine
shows fruit-forward notes of mandarin orange, glazed nectarine and grapefruit granita, layered with candied ginger,
ground cardamom and lavender flavors. Mouthwatering
finish. Moscato. Drink now through 2024. 6,000 cases
made.A.N.

89

MaculanVeneto Madoro 2013 $25/375ml

A lightly sweet version, with plump, dusty tannins framing flavors of steeped black raspberry, tea rose, spice box
and dark chocolate. Offers a juicy finish of graphite and
spice. Marzemino and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now
through 2019. 250 cases made.A.N.

89

SuaviaSoave Classico 2014 $15 Fig, white

peach, grated ginger and apple blossom notes are underscored by stone and spice in this well-knit, mouthwatering white. This is hard to stop sipping. Drink now through
2019. 2,000 cases imported.A.N.

88

Igino AccordiniLugana Golfina 2014 $23

A vivacious white, light-bodied and elegant, with a juicy

mix of Asian pear, orange granita, stone and candied ginger. Offers a lightly spiced, minerally finish. Trebbiano.
Drink now through 2019. 100 cases imported.A.N.

88

InamaSoave Classico Vigneti di Foscarino

2014 $24 A soft and creamy white, with enough cit-

rusy acidity to balance the rich notes of crushed almond,

baked pear, chamomile and spice. Drink now through
2019. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

notes layered with stone and citrus details. Fresh and easydrinking. Vermentino, Trebbiano and Grechetto. Drink
now. 30,000 cases made.A.N.

ITALY

86

93

GorettiPinot Grigio Umbria 2014 $12

Light and zippy, with stone, apple blossom, minced ginger

and lemon zest notes. Drink now. 4,167 cases made.A.N.

86

VitianoUmbria 2013 $12

This fresh, easydrinking red offers a creamy mix of crushed plum, cured
tobacco, star anise and mineral. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2018. 125,000
cases made.A.N.
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Veneto / Red
AllegriniAmarone della Valpolicella
Classico 2011 $85 A lovely, harmonious red, with

plump and juicy dried cherry and strawberry fruit, abundant aromatic spice and herb notes, and accents of graphite, mocha, mineral and licorice. This really sings on the
palate and keeps on chiming on the supple finish. Drink
now through 2026. 1,300 cases imported.A.N.

92 CesariAmarone della Valpolicella Classico

Bosan Riserva 2006 $115 Rich and spiced, this graceful red seamlessly layers fine-grained tannins and juicy
acidity with flavors of plumped cherry, eucalyptus, fig
paste, forest floor and mineral. Lasting finish. Drink now
through 2026. 3,335 cases made.A.N.

91 DeganiAmarone della Valpolicella Classico

2012 $54 Spiced currant, herbes de Provence, fig cake
and floral notes are bright and inviting in this mediumto full-bodied red, structured by grippy tannins and a lasting, spiced finish. Drink now through 2026. 600 cases
made.A.N.

91

MaculanBreganze Crosara 2012 $100

A lovely, harmonious red, with a plump and juicy mix

of spiced plum, fig cake, mocha and mineral married to
refined tannins. Medium- to full-bodied, with a lingering,
lightly chewy finish. Merlot. Drink now through 2026.
250 cases made.A.N.

91

MasiAmarone della Valpolicella Classico

Costasera 2011 $64 Finely balanced and silky, with

the herb, mineral and woodsy spice elements of a more

traditional version, bolstered by plenty of ripe wild cherry
and dried strawberry fruit. Fresh and medium-bodied, delivering light, dusty tannins on the coffee-tinged finish.
Drink now through 2026. 40,000 cases made.A.N.

90 InamaCarmenre Colli Berici Oratorio di

San Lorenzo Riserva 2012 $65 Herbes de Provence,
game and smoke notes are layered with plumped black
cherry and mocha flavors in this medium- to full-bodied
red, punctuated by sculpted tannins. Drink now through
2021. 6,600 cases made.A.N.

90 InamaVeneto Bradisismo 2012 $30

A meaty
red, with an aromatic edge of grilled rosemary to the sanguine mix of dried black currant and black olive flavors.
Medium-bodied, featuring grippy tannins on the lasting,
spiced finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenre. Drink
now through 2026. 2,200 cases made.A.N.

89

InamaCarmenre Veneto Pi 2013 $20

Bright and well-balanced, with dark, brambly berry fruit,

wild herb and Kalamata olive flavors and lightly chewy
tannins. Aromatic hints of graphite, spice and orange zest
show on the finish. Drink now through 2019. 7,775 cases
made.A.N.

88

AllegriniVeronese Palazzo della Torre 2012

$23 Graphite and herbed black olive notes underscore

the crushed blackberry and currant fruit in this inky red.

Fine-grained tannins firm the moderately spiced finish.
Corvina and Rondinella with Sangiovese. Drink now
through 2019. 19,740 cases imported.A.N.

88 CesariMerlot-Cabernet Veneto Boscarel

2014 $23 Spice and floral notes waft through the
cherry, currant and grilled herb flavors in this mediumbodied, balanced red. Drink now through 2019. 20,830
cases made.A.N.

88

MaculanMerlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Veneto

Brentino 2013 $18 Herb and smoke notes lead the

way, layered with enough juicy acidity and flavors of black

currant, plum, olive and woodsy spice to offer pleasure.
Medium-bodied, with a chewy finish. Drink now through
2019. 12,000 cases made.A.N.

87

MasiVeronese Campofiorin 2012 $19 Lightly

chewy, this easy-drinking red features wild strawberry,
dried herb, orange peel and spice notes. Drink now
through 2018. 100,000 cases made.A.N.

ITALY

Other / Red

93

OdoardiCalabria GB 2013 $45 A rich and

juicy red, in a modern style, this shows a sense of finesse
to the integration of velvety tannins, with an expressive
profile of pureed boysenberry, cocoa powder, dried lavender, melted licorice, spice and mineral notes. Offers a long,

New Releases: Italy

grippy finish. Gaglioppo, Magliocco Canino and Nerello
Cappuccio. Drink now through 2026. 1,800 cases
made.A.N.

92

Fattoria GalardiCampania Terra di Lavoro

2013 $90 A sculpted red, with sleek tannins framing
the fresh profile of crushed black currant, smoky mineral,
dried fig, graphite and spice box. Dense and finely balanced, this should show well with at least a few years in
the cellar. Aglianico and Piedrosso. Best from 2019
through 2026. 2,750 cases made.A.N.

92

MontepelosoToscana Eneo 2012 $49

An alluring combination of black currant, black cherry,

licorice, spice and mineral melds seamlessly with the firm
structure in this powerful, harmonious red. Long and approachable now, but should cruise for several more years
in the cellar. Drink now through 2023. 1,500 cases
made.B.S.

91

Ca MarcandaBolgheri Camarcanda 2011

$155 A firm, crisp edge of acidity and tannins sets the

stage for cherry, black currant, cedar, green olive and spice
flavors. Tight, yet elegant and fresh, with a long aftertaste
of spice. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
From Tuscany. Best from 2018 through 2027. 1,250 cases
made.B.S.

91

89

OdoardiSavuto 2014 $17 Leather, smoke and

black olive notes are layered with boysenberry coulis and
cocoa powder flavors in this elegant red. Medium-bodied
and silky in texture, with fine-grained tannins showing
on the minerally finish. Gaglioppo, Magliocco Canino
and others. From Calabria. Drink now through 2021.
4,500 cases made.A.N.

89

Cantina Sociale di SantadiCannonau di

Sardegna Noras 2012 $27 Rich notes of black olive

tapenade, mocha and baking spices underscore the crme

de cassis and dried fig fruit of this elegant red. Supple tannins provide light grip on the finish. A stylish red. From
Sardinia. Drink now through 2021. 2,500 cases made.A.N.

88

CecchiChianti Classico Storia di Famiglia

2013 $21 This rich red is laced with black cherry,

plum and leather flavors, backed by a solid grip of tannins.

Features ample fruit and lingers on the firm finish. Best
from 2017 through 2023. 65,000 cases made.B.S.

87 BiscegliaAglianico del Vulture Terra di

Vulcano 2013 $13 Ash, black olive and leather notes
are layered with fine, dusty tannins and flavors of dried
cranberry, tobacco and star anise in this medium-bodied,
balanced red. From Basilicata. Drink now through 2018.
5,800 cases made.A.N.

CecchiMorellino di Scansano La Mora

Riserva 2011 $40 Rich and complex, this red features

87

black cherry, blackberry, plum, spice and mineral aromas

and flavors. Firm tannins and vivid acidity provide support.
This remains long and satisfying on the finish. From Tuscany. Drink now through 2020. 2,250 cases made.B.S.

aromatic accents of flowers and spice, with a smoky

underpinning to the raspberry, currant and wild herb flavors on the palate, folowed by a bright, zesty finish. From
Sardinia. Drink now through 2018. 1,665 cases made.A.N.

90 BiscegliaAglianico del Vulture Gudarr 2012

$25

A grippy, medium-bodied red, offering well-knit

flavors of black olive, dried cranberry and graphite, with
a smoky, minerally underpinning. Presents a subtle, lingering finish of dried herb and ground spice. From Basilicata. Drink now through 2021. 2,900 cases made.A.N.

90 CeraudoVal

di Neto Petraro 2010 $45

Plumped cherry and a hint of mocha are layered with

mineral, herbed olive and spice notes in this supple red.
Bright and balanced, with a lightly chewy, aromatic finish. Gaglioppo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Greco Nero.
From Calabria. Drink now through 2025. 1,000 cases
made.A.N.

90 FalescoLazio Montiano 2012 $50 Mediumto full-bodied and well-knit, with an expressive mix of
leather, plumped currant, sandalwood, cocoa powder and
underbrush notes, framed by supple tannins that show
good grip on the aromatic finish. Merlot. Drink now
through 2026. 4,100 cases made.A.N.
90 RuffinoChianti Classico Ducale Oro Riserva
Gran Selezione 2011 $42 A complex red, evoking
cherry, strawberry, tobacco, tar and underbrush aromas
and flavors. Harmonious and detailed, this lingers with
an aftertaste of fruit, earth and woodsy notes. Drink now
through 2023. 25,000 cases imported.B.S.

89

CecchiChianti Classico Riserva di Famiglia

2012 $41 Black currant, blackberry and tobacco flavors

are the main themes, supported by a firm structure. This

feels balanced, with a long, spice- and tobacco-infused finish. Best from 2017 through 2023. 6,500 cases made.B.S.

89

Tenuta I GelsiAglianico del Vulture

LEmozione Azienda Ofanto 2011 $29 Sculpted

tannins are married to ripe black cherry, leather, spice box

and graphite notes in this juicy, medium- to full-bodied
red. Firm finish. From Basilicata. Best from 2018 through
2023. 3,335 cases made.A.N.

89

OdoardiCalabria Terra Damia 2013 $21

Graphite and spice notes accent the sappy black currant,

mocha, smoky mineral and licorice flavors of this mediumto full-bodied red. Suave and well-knit, with a juicy finish
firmed by the fine tannins. Gaglioppo, Magliocco Canino,
Nerello Cappuccio. Drink now through 2023. 3,000 cases
made.A.N.

Nuraghe CrabioniCannonau di Sardegna

2013 $18 This creamy, medium-bodied red offers

87

Cantine StattiLamezia 2014 $15 Smoke and

woodsy spice notes meet juicy plumped cherry, ripe plum
and dried herb flavors in this well-knit, medium-bodied
red. Fresh. Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, Nerello Cappuccio.
From Calabria. Drink now through 2018. 3,750 cases
made.A.N.

86

Tenuta I GelsiBasilicata Gelso Rosso 2013

$15

Balanced and open-knit, with dark black currant

and black olive flavors, showing accents of underbrush,
mineral and spice. Aglianico. Drink now through 2018.
2,085 cases made.A.N.

ITALY

Other / Sparkling & White

91

FerrariBrut Ros Trento Perl 2008 $60

Mouthwatering and harmonious, offering a rich hint of

toast layered with crushed black cherry and strawberry
fruit, sliced almond, orange granita and ground ginger.
Offers a fresh finish of spice and citrus zest. Drink now
through 2021. 2,916 cases made.A.N.

91

Maso MartisBrut Trento Madame Martis

Riserva 2005 $140 Spiced plum and candied orange
zest flavors are layered with apple tarte Tatin and coconut
cream notes in this balanced sparkler, showing a soft and
creamy mousse. Lightly juicy, presenting spun honey and
chamomile accents on the finish. Drink now through
2021. 85 cases made.A.N.

90 FerrariBrut Ros Trento NV $35 A delicate

ros, with the lively bead carrying flavors of wild strawberry, smoked almond, singed orange peel and biscotti.
Well-balanced and fresh. Drink now. 20,000 cases
made.A.N.
90 FerrariBrut Trento NV

$26 See Smart Buys,

page 118.

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TOP100

2015

90 FerrariExtra Brut Trento Riserva Lunelli

2006 $60 Rich hints of spiced plum and chopped
almond are framed by firm acidity and a refined mousse
in this focused sparkler, well-meshed with flavors of glazed
apple, lemon curd and biscuit. Drink now through 2021.
2,500 cases made.A.N.

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89 Fattoria di FelsinaToscana White

Berardenga I Sistri 2013 $28 Vanilla, toast and
smoke aromas give way to peach, apricot and spice notes
here. Round and juicy, with a hint of grapefruit peel on
the long finish. Chardonnay. 3,000 cases made.B.S.

88

Lini Oreste & FigliLambrusco Emilia In

Correggio 910 Scuro NV $18 A skein of spice

unravels through the dark fruit notes of black currant

and licorice in this well-meshed Lambrusco, bolstered by
vibrant acidity and riding a soft, refined bead. Drink now.
15,000 cases made.A.N.

88

Lini Oreste & FigliLambrusco Emilia Rosso

Labrusca 910 NV $15 Graphite and spice notes lace
flavors of steeped cherry and sweet brown bread in this
fresh, distinctive Lambrusco. Lightly chewy on the finish.
Drink now. 30,000 cases made.A.N.

88 Nuraghe CrabioniVermentino di Sardegna

2014 $18 A lithe, medium-bodied white, with lipsmacking acidity and flavors of kiwifruit, grated ginger
and mandarin orange peel, underscored by stone and
smoke notes. From Sardinia. Drink now. 3,335 cases
made.A.N.

88

Villa SandiBrut Ros Vino Spumante Il

Fresco NV $15 Lightly creamy and fresh, featuring
apple blossom and spice notes layered with plumped cherry
and orange granita flavors. Well-knit, with a stony finish.
Drink now through 2018. 2,000 cases imported.A.N.

87

Tenuta PederzanaLambrusco Grasparossa

di Castelvetro Gibe 2014 $20 Bright and tangy,
with accents of pencil shavings and dried marjoram leading to a creamy mix of mulled cherry and singed orange
peel. Aromatic finish. Drink now. 1,250 cases made.A.N.

85

Lini Oreste & FigliLambrusco Emilia Bianco

Labrusca 910 NV $15 A light and savory sparkler,

with tangy acidity and salted almond and lemon meringue

flavors set on a fine, creamy mousse. Drink now. 20,000
cases made.A.N.

95

BarbeitoBual Madeira 1982 $195 Creamy,

with hazelnut, cocoa butter, white chocolate and chamomile flavors that are vibrant and plush. Succulent midpalate, featuring a cascade of hot stone, iodine and flinty
notes on the powerfully structured finish. Drink now
through 2035. 100 cases made.K.M.

92 BarbeitoMalvasia Madeira 719 D+E Single

Cask 2001 $55/500ml Hazelnut, chocolate torte and

95

92

BlandysSercial Madeira 1975 $205 Offers

mouthfilling richness, with flavors of dried apricot, pear
tart, roasted pineapple and ginger snap that are long and
complex. Medium-dry, showing lots of freshness to the
slate, spice and mineral accents. Dried citrus details
emerge on the zesty finish. Drink now through 2040. 170
cases made.K.M.

95

dOliveiraMalvasia Madeira 1907 $750

This has a rich, earthy aroma, with flavors of juniper berry,

hazelnut, cocoa and butter pastry, featuring vibrant acidity. Shows concentrated smokiness midpalate, accented
by hints of bakers chocolate. The powerful finish offers
a rush of exotic spice accents. Drink now. 10 cases
imported.K.M.

94

BlandysMalmsey Madeira 1999 $50/500ml

Aromas and flavors of hazelnut, butterscotch, white chocolate and egg cream are lush and seductive. The elegant
finish echoes with citrus and spice notes, along with plenty
of dried tropical accents. Drink now through 2050. 440
cases made.K.M.

94

Cossart GordonBual Madeira 1962 $350

Powerfully fresh, this is pure and direct, with a spicy aroma

and zesty flavors of apricot, citrus and apple that feature
plenty of pastry notes. The finish is loaded with white
chocolate, hazelnut and slate accents. Drink now through
2040. 90 cases made.K.M.

94

dOliveiraSercial Madeira 1969 $185 Creamy

and lush, this glides across the palate with rich buttercream notes to the flavors of apricot tart, pear compote,
dried mango and pineapple cake. The spicy finish is fresh
and minerally, with a long tail of dried ginger. Drink now.
25 cases imported.K.M.

85

93

and singed orange peel notes are bright and tangy in this
balanced frizzante sipper. Drink now. 20,000 cases
made.A.N.

A bright, crisp version, with plenty of spark to the dried

citrus, cherry and roasted pineapple flavors. The sinewy
midpalate leads to firm mineral and slate components on
the finish, accented by hints of white pepper. Drink now
through 2035. 50 cases made.K.M.

Lini Oreste & FigliLambrusco Ros Emilia

Labrusca 910 NV $15 Candied strawberry, stone, spice

PORTUGAL
Madeira

97

BlandysBual Madeira 1966 $300 Elegant,

filled with rich buttery and nutty notes to the dried tropical fruit, apricot and baked apple flavors. Creamy midpalate, with a long, sumptuous finish filled with white
chocolate, citrus zest and mineral accents, delivering hints
of pepper. Drink now through 2040. 60 cases made.K.M.

96

dOliveiraBual Madeira 1968 $220 Balanced

and plush, with concentrated buttercream, hazelnut, dried

apricot and tropical fruit flavors that are still fresh and
lively. Citrus zest and sea salt notes show midpalate. The
finish lingers with cream, dried tarragon and Asian spice
details. Drink now through 2035. 40 cases imported.K.M.

96

dOliveiraMadeira Old Wine 1995 $85 A

rich, robust style, with smoky notes to the flavors of dried
tropical fruits and apple, enlivened by accents of citrus
zest. Cedar and dried ginger details fill the powerfully
structured finish. Still an adolescent, with a long future
ahead. Very pure. Drink now. 10 cases imported.K.M.

96

dOliveiraTerrantez Madeira 1971 $220

This features a richly spiced aroma, with flavors to match,

including butterscotch, hazelnut cream and dried tropical
fruits. Complex and well-integrated, featuring a plush
texture. The ripe, seductive finish oozes with chocolate
and dried coconut notes. Drink now through 2045. 15
cases imported.K.M.

134

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BarbeitoBual Madeira 1992 $100/500ml

93

BarbeitoBual Madeira Boston Special

Reserve NV $55 Nutty aromas and flavors are filled

with buttery notes in this plush and sweet style. Dried

apricot and mango details add to the richness. Finishes
with seductive smoke, dried beef and cocoa powder components. Drink now through 2050.K.M.

93

BarbeitoMalvasia Madeira Ribeiro Real

20 year old NV $120 Butterscotch and dried apricot

flavors dominate this rich style. White chocolate and

maple notes show as well, with ripe citrus and spice
accents filling the lush, lively finish. Very fresh and pure.
Drink now through 2040. 120 cases made.K.M.

93

dOliveiraMalvasia Madeira 1989 $115

Citrusy and broad-textured up front, with chestnut, dried

fig, marzipan and honeycomb flavors. Shows muscular acidity and spiciness, with plenty of alcoholic power on the
finish. Drink now through 2045. 35 cases imported.K.M.

93 dOliveiraSercial Madeira 1977 $165 Offers

a stalwart structure, with plenty of finesse to the flavors
of roasted plum, cedar, humus and dried ginger. Citrusy
midpalate, with a robust finish of almond and buttered
toast that is long and rich. Drink now through 2030. 10
cases imported.K.M.
93

dOliveiraVerdelho Madeira 1986 $135 This

is loaded with dried mango and apricot flavors, flanked

by notes of cinnamon and allspice. Dry, with plenty of
seductive smoky accents. The bright finish offers citrus
zest, dried rosemary and sea salt hints. Drink now through
2030. 15 cases imported.K.M.

lemon bar flavors are supported by vibrant acidity in this

toothsome version. Shows plenty of smoky notes, with
some leathery and beefy hints on the finish. Drink now
through 2040. 65 cases made.K.M.

BarbeitoVerdelho Madeira Savannah

Special Reserve NV $55 Offers a powerful aroma of
marzipan and dried tropical fruits, with flavors to match.
Shows muscular acidity and plenty of barbecue smoke
notes. Vanilla and white chocolate details emerge on the
grippy, complex finish, revealing buttery accents. Drink
now through 2040.K.M.

92 dOliveiraBual Madeira 1908 $650 Intensely

smoky, with dried juniper berry, cedar and roasted chestnut flavors, backed by muscular acidity. Forest floor and
sauted mushroom notes show on the finish. Drink now.
10 cases imported.K.M.
91

BarbeitoMalmsey Madeira New York Special

Reserve NV $55 Rich and spicy, with a creamy texture and plenty of buttery notes to the dried apricot and
roasted pineapple flavors. Smoky and cedary accents show
on the plush finish. Drink now through 2030.K.M.

91 BarbeitoSercial Madeira Charleston Special

Reserve NV $55 Chamomile and Earl Grey tea notes
accent the flavors of dried apple, tangerine and pineapple
in this flinty style, with hints of matchstick. The finish is
filled with citrus zest and plum sauce details. Drink now
through 2028.K.M.

91 BarbeitoVerdelho Madeira 4 D+E Single

Cask 2000 $55/500ml A light amber color, with
a fresh array of dried tropical fruit, apple and ripe citrus
flavors woven together by crisp acidity. Quite dry, with
buttercream notes midpalate. Lemon and pastry details
linger. Drink now through 2035. 65 cases made.K.M.

90 BarbeitoTinta Negra Madeira Ribeiro Real

1996 $95 A fruity style, exhibiting flavors of baked
peach, spiced pear and dried cherry, loaded with roasted
pineapple and spice notes. Vanilla and buttercream
accents fill the finish. Drink now through 2030. 77 cases
made.K.M.

90 Madeira Wine CompanyMadeira Miles 5 Year

Old Rich NV $23 Shows a hint of pipe tobacco in the
aroma, with rich, deep flavors of butterscotch, persimmon
and ripe citrus gliding effortlessly across the palate. Minerally midpalate, showing touches of hot stone on the finish. Drink now through 2030. 80 cases imported.K.M.

89 Madeira Wine CompanyMadeira Miles

Finest Rainwater Medium Dry NV $17 Tangy, with
notes of sea salt and juniper berry to the flavors of chestnut, dried mango and apricot. Citrus zest details show on
the finish, accented by hints of light smoke and dried beef.
Drink now through 2022. 400 cases imported.K.M.

PORTUGAL
Douro

94 Lemos & van ZellerDouro Quinta Vale D.

Maria 2013 $68 See Highly Recommended, page 117.
94

Lemos & van ZellerDouro Quinta Vale D.

Maria Vinha Do Rio 2013 $190 A creamy and plush
style, with seductive smokiness to the flavors of raspberry
preserves and plum tart, accented by notes of fresh-ground
white pepper. Mint and dried beef details show on the
finish. Complex. Needs time in the cellar. Best from 2018
through 2022. 390 cases made.K.M.

94

Quinta do Vale MeoDouro 2013 $90

A polished and suave style, with a Burgundian allure,

featuring lively acidity behind the raspberry, dried blackberry and dark plum flavors. Lengthens out nicely on the
muscular finish, showing plenty of cream and spice hints.
Drink now through 2022. 305 cases imported.K.M.

New Releases: Portugal / South Africa

93

DuorumDouro O. Leucura Reserva 2011 $90

Offers a rich, floral aroma, with flavors to match, along

with dark plum, cassis and cherry tart notes, filled with
plenty of Asian spice details. Ample chocolate mousse
accents emerge on the long, plush, rich finish. Drink now
through 2019.K.M.

93 Quinta do ValladoDouro Field Blend Reserva

2013 $65 Elegantly floral, firm and savory, with red

90 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo

PORTUGAL

Powerful and
well-structured, with dried berry, ripe cherry and licorice
flavors. Richly spiced, with plenty of beefy notes midpalate. Finishes with accents of forest floor and chocolate.
Drink now through 2019. 375 cases made.K.M.

Other

Douro Grande Reserva 2013 $110

90 Quinta

do PassadouroDouro 2013 $25

plum and berry flavors flanked by notes of dried sage. Lush

midpalate, presenting hints of iodine on the well-structured
finish. Drink now through 2021. 3,000 cases made.K.M.

Velvety and well-spiced, with ripe dark fruit flavors that

are matched to engaging forest floor and cedar notes. Cocoa powder and candied plum details show on the refined
finish. Drink now through 2020. 175 cases imported.K.M.

93

90 Quinta

Wine & SoulDouro Pintas 2013 $80

Powerful and elegant, with flavors of spiced cherry, plum

tart and dark currant, accented by generous notes of ginger and nutmeg. The lush finish offers cocoa powder and
licorice elements. Drink now through 2020. 40 cases
imported.K.M.

92

Lemos & van ZellerDouro Vale D. Maria

Valleys 2013 $55 This refined red is filled with finely
textured flavors of red plum, dark cherry and dried blackberry, supported by fresh acidity. Shows pure minerality
midpalate, with a finish of underbrush and dried savory
herbs. Drink now through 2020. 350 cases made.K.M.

92

Quinta do PassadouroDouro Reserva 2013

do PassadouroTouriga Nacional
Douro 2013 $40 A juicy and vibrant red, with notes
of white pepper to the red currant, plum and raspberry
flavors. Accents of dried mint show on the spicy finish,
oozing with dark chocolate details. Drink now through
2018. 50 cases imported.K.M.

90 Poas JuniorDouro Vale de Cavalos 2013

$32 A lithe, powerful red, with good cut to the raspberry
and red currant flavors, with white pepper notes. Forest
floor accents emerge on the tannic finish, showing bakers
chocolate nuances. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.K.M.

90 Quinta da RomaneiraDouro Sino Da Romaneira 2012 $30 A suave red, with meaty accents to the

$70

This is loaded with cherry and red plum flavors,

accented by notes of tobacco leaf and cedar. Fresh green
herbal details emerge on the powerful and mineral-laden
finish. Drink now through 2020. 40 cases imported.K.M.

flavors of dark plum, cherry tart and raspberry preserves.

Creamy notes linger alongside milk chocolate hints on the
complex finish, showing details of forest floor and slate.
Drink now through 2019. 2,833 cases made.K.M.

92

90 Quinta do ValladoSouso Douro 2013

Wine & SoulDouro Quinta da Manoella

Vinhas Velhas 2013 $100 A muscular and powerful
red, with intense spice and dried green herbal notes to
the snappy dark fruit flavors. The finely textured and moderately tannic finish is filled with chocolate and pepper
details. Drink now through 2020. 25 cases imported.K.M.

91

DuorumDouro Reserva Old Vines 2012 $45

An intense, powerful and juicy style, with raspberry and

blackberry notes that feature zesty acidity. Creamy midpalate, showing plenty of chocolate mousse accents, with
hints of slate, tangerine and licorice. Drink now through
2020. 20 cases imported.K.M.

91

Lemos & van ZellerDouro Curriculum Vitae

2013 $120 A plush, juicy and ripe red, with concen-

trated flavors of blackberry, dark plum and dark cherry

that are flanked by hoisin sauce and Asian spice notes.
Cocoa powder details show on the creamy finish. Drink
now through 2020. 750 cases made.K.M.

91

Quinta da RomaneiraDouro 2012 $45

A
ripe and muscular red, featuring plenty of beefy notes to
the roasted plum and dark cherry flavors. Offers a crisp
and pure-tasting finish, with lively minerality and hints
of slate. Drink now through 2020. 2,708 cases made.K.M.

$40

90 Quinta do CrastoDouro

Superior 2013 $30 This rich,

savory and spicy red offers inky
notes to the roasted plum and dried
raspberry flavors. Paprika and hot
stone accents show on the finish,
with medium-grained tannins.
Drink now through 2020. 15,000
cases made.K.M.

red plum and raspberry that feature hints of tangerine.

Slate and white pepper notes emerge on the lively finish.
Drink now through 2019. 200 cases imported.K.M.

89

Quinta do CrastoDouro 2014 $20 Robust,

Jos Maria da FonsecaMoscatel de Setbal

Alambre 2010 $11 See Best Values, page 119.

90 Jlio BastosAlentejo White Dona Maria

Amantis Reserva 2012 $25 Very ripe, plush and rich,
with loads of spice notes to the pear tart, baked apple and
buttercream flavors. The lively finish glistens with beeswax and glazed apricot accents, revealing hints of dried
sage and tarragon. Drink now through 2019. 1,000 cases
made.K.M.

90 CroftTawny Port Reserve NV $20 Rich

and toothsome, with interesting dried herbal notes to the
red plum and toffee flavors. The juicy finish is filled with
spicy accents. Drink now. 600 cases imported.K.M.
90 Ramos-PintoLate Bottled Port Unfiltered
2011 $27 Aromas and flavors of dark chocolate define
90 Joo Portugal RamosAlentejo Vila Santa

89 Jlio BastosAlentejo White Dona Maria

2014 $17 Offers a lush, spicy aroma, with plenty of

with lively acidity and a firm structure behind the flavors

of blackberry, dark cherry and currant. Espresso notes
fill the finish, with plenty of mineral and dark chocolate
details. Drink now through 2019. 37,500 cases made.K.M.

buttery notes to the ripe apple, pear and baked peach flavors. Well-structured, showing plenty of zip and a long,
creamy finish accented by lanolin hints. Drink now
through 2019. 7,000 cases made.K.M.

88

89 Casa de SantarDo 2013 $18 Notes of red

plum and cassis show accents of Asian spice, with white
pepper and forest floor details emerging midpalate, supported by luscious minerality. Features hints of raspberry
preserves on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 28,500
cases made.K.M.

Lemos & van ZellerDouro Van Zellers Red

2013 $19 This snappy red features lots of blueberry
notes, with flavors of cherry, damson plum and dark currant. Accents of dried mint fill the richly spiced and ripe
finish. Drink now through 2018. 2,200 cases made.K.M.

88

Quinta do PassadouroDouro Passa 2013

$15

88

Wine & SoulDouro Manoella 2013 $22

Theres a peppery snap to this fruity, medium-bodied red.

Dark currant flavors dominate, showing notes of dried
herb that carry through to the finish. Drink now through
2018. 400 cases imported.K.M.

87

Poas JuniorDouro Coroa dOuro 2013 $19

Juicy and fresh, offering red plum and raspberry flavors

flanked by savory herb notes. The crisp finish is direct,
with porcini accents. Drink now. 3,400 cases made.K.M.

87
JORGE, MIGUEL
& TOMS ROQUETTE
Owners

91

Reserva 2013 $20 Redolent of plum pudding, with

spiced cherry and cassis notes. Exhibits vibrant minerality,
with pepper accents that linger on the zesty finish. Puretasting. Drink now through 2019. 100 cases imported.K.M.

$40 A juicy and fresh style, with exuberant flavors of

91 Quinta da RomaneiraTouriga Nacional

Douro 2013 $45 A rich, refined red, with well-sculpted
flavors of damson plum, raspberry and cherry that are
matched to forest floor and porcini notes. Offers lively
spice details on the minerally finish. Drink now through
2020. 250 cases made.K.M.

91 Casa de SantarDo Reserva 2012 $48 Wellsculpted and powerfully structured, with intense red plum
and red currant flavors flanked by plenty of peppery notes.
The juicy finish resonates with dried fig and juniper berry
hints. Drink now through 2020. 1,540 cases made.K.M.

90 Wine & SoulDouro Pintas Character 2013

88 Quinta do PortalDouro Mural 2013 $11 This

is lush, with engaging minerality to the raspberry, red plum
and red currant flavors. Shows plenty of forest floor notes
as well, delivering a finish of white pepper and dried herbal
details. Drink now through 2019. 4,750 cases made.K.M.

This offers an engaging sinewy texture, with

espresso and mocha flavors flanked by plenty of smoky
notes. Asian spice and hoisin sauce accents show on the
finish. Drink now through 2020. 415 cases made.K.M.

Elegant, with good grip to the dark cherry, plum

and mineral flavors. Lithe midpalate, with a complex
finish that weaves together well-proportioned notes of
slate, white pepper and dark chocolate. Drink now through
2035. 300 cases imported.K.M.

this youthful style. Plum pudding and spice notes linger

on the juicy finish. Offers fresh and alluring juiciness.
Drink now. 325 cases imported.K.M.

$80

Quinta da RomaneiraDouro Reserva 2012

FonsecaVintage Port Guimaraens 2013

Shows a flinty note to the flavors of dark plum, dried raspberry and mocha. Interesting shiso leaf accents show midpalate. The finish offers pepper and licorice hints. Drink
now through 2018. 833 cases made.K.M.

A zesty red, with flavors of dried raspberry, plum

and red currant that linger with peppery notes. The fresh,
minerally finish has lightly smoky accents. Drink now
through 2018. 900 cases imported.K.M.

91

93
$52

Quinta do PortalDouro Muros de Vinha 2013

$10 A brambly red, with lively acidity to the flavors of

dried raspberry and plum. Minerally notes show midpalate, with slate and spice details on the finish. Drink now.
6,665 cases made.K.M.

89 Herdade do MouchoAlentejo Dom Rafael

2012 $15 Features loads of raspberry preserves, matched
to rich notes of cassis and Asian spice. Shows accents of
red licorice midpalate, with a finish of dark chocolate.
Drink now through 2019. 5,000 cases made.K.M.

88

Casa de SantarDo White 2014 $16

Features toothsome flavors of almond, mineral and beeswax, matched to notes of dried apple and honeysuckle.
The rich finish delivers hints of spice and smoke. Drink
now through 2018. 22,500 cases made.K.M.

SOUTH AFRICA
Chenin Blanc & Blends

94 Sadie FamilyT Voetpad Swartland 2014

$65 Dense, with white peach, pear, quince and yellow
apple fruit flavors forming a prodigious core. Remarkably
racy and stony in feel overall, with blanched almond and
salted butter notes keeping everything tightly harnessed
through the finish. Chenin Blanc, Smillon, Palomino
and Muscat dAlexandrie. Best from 2017 through 2022.
300 cases made.J.M.

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135

New Releases: South Africa

94

Sadie FamilyPalladius Coastal Region 2013

$110 Gains heft from loads of quince, nectarine, pear

and ginger flavors, but the spine shows excellent minerality, with a long, stony feel through the finish. Hints of
quinine, verbena and chamomile add even more range.
A pristine display. Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc,
Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Verdelho, Roussanne, Smillon Gris, Smillon and Palomino. Drink now through
2022. 583 cases made.J.M.

93

MullineuxChenin Blanc Swartland Granite

2014 $88 Offers a large core of fresh-cut green and

yellow apple fruit flavors, backed by extra green almond

and verbena notes. A light hint of pear skin frames the
finish, leaving a quinine twinge lingering. Drink now
through 2018. 208 cases made.J.M.

93

MullineuxChenin Blanc Swartland Quartz

2014 $88 On the rich side, with notes of shortbread,
lemon curd and creamed yellow apple, revealing hints of
mirabelle plum, green almond and verbena that impart
contrast and added length through the finish. Nicely done.
Drink now through 2018. 100 cases made.J.M.

93

Sadie FamilyMev. Kirsten Stellenbosch 2014

$190 Richly layered, with pear, ginger, white peach and
almond cream notes that glide along seamlessly, carried
by perfectly embedded acidity through the chamomileand verbena-infused finish. Balanced by good cut, this
flows, rather than races, along. A beauty. Chenin Blanc.
Drink now through 2020. 82 cases made.J.M.

93

Sadie FamilySkerpioen Swartland 2014 $60

This bristles with energy, featuring a matchstick hint that

imparts an edgy feel, while ginger, peach, nectarine and
green almond notes bustle around the core. Lots of chamomile and jasmine elements fill in on the finish, along
with a dash of bitter citrus oil. Needs time to settle in.
Chenin Blanc and Palomino. Best from 2017 through
2021. 365 cases made.J.M.

93

Sadie FamilySkurfberg Olifants River 2014

$60 This delivers a blaze of white peach, pear eau-devie, green almond and chamomile flavors, allied to finely
beaded acidity, all backed by a long, mineral-edged finish.
Show gorgeous cut and drive. Chenin Blanc. Drink now
through 2020. 558 cases made.J.M.

Syrah & Blends

93

MullineuxSyrah Swartland Iron 2013 $140

Delivers an iron spike from the start, along with singed

juniper and alder notes. The core of fruit is ample, featuring lots of bitter cherry, plum and blood orange, but this
is held in check for now, with serious grip still driving the
finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 266 cases made.J.M.

93 Sadie FamilyColumella Coastal Region 2013

$130 This has a dark and fleshy profile, without being
heady, as the plum, blackberry and black cherry confiture
flavors are supported by incense, anise and singed sandalwood notes. Everything melds beautifully through the finish, revealing a long echo of black tea. Syrah and Mourvdre.
Drink now through 2022. 795 cases made.J.M.

93

Duncan SavageWestern Cape 2013 $45

Very suave, with lightly mulled plum, cherry and blackberry fruit flavors carried by substantial but silky tannins,
while additional anise, blood orange and incense notes
fill in through the finish. Theres ample flesh here, but
this stays very refined throughout, revealing a mouthwatering echo that hangs on beautifully. Syrah, Grenache,
Cinsault and Touriga Nacional. Drink now through 2022.
433 cases made.J.M.

92

MullineuxSyrah Swartland Schist 2013 $130

Still tightly coiled, this has a core of red currant, bitter

cherry and raspberry notes waiting to unwind, with long,
fine-grained tannins carrying the alder and black tea
infused finish. Shows ample buried minerality. Let this sit
in the cellar for a bit. Similar to a Cte-Rtie from the Cte
Brune. Best from 2017 through 2021. 266 cases made.J.M.

91 MullineuxSyrah Swartland 2013 $33 This

delivers a solid core of warm black cherry confiture, backed
by lively anise and sweet tobacco notes. A pretty black
tea hint weaves through the silky finish. Drink now. 1,500
cases made.J.M.
88

Man VintnersSyrah-Mourvdre Coastal

Region Tormentoso 2014 $14 This offers a mix of
black cherry, licorice, tobacco and dark tea notes, allied
to a light leathery spine through the finish. Drink now
through 2017. 500 cases imported.J.M.

92

MullineuxChenin Blanc Swartland Schist

2014 $88 Broad but enticing, with warmed peach,

87

ginger and piecrust flavors forming the core, while notes

of verbena and sweetened butter line the finish. Frankly
toasty but shows good definition. Drink now through
2017. 100 cases made.J.M.

plum and blackberry fruit, with anise hints. Shows modest

toast on the finish. Drink now. 2,800 cases imported.J.M.

91

MullineuxOld Vines Swartland White 2014

$28 Lovely, with white peach, chamomile and verbena
notes giving this elegance up front, while creamed yellow
apple and fresh butter notes impart opulence through the
finish. Chenin Blanc, Clairette Blanche and Viognier.
Drink now through 2017. 1,500 cases made.J.M.

89

MarvelousWestern Cape White 2013 $15

Alluring, with ginger, almond and creamed white peach

and yellow apple fruit aromas and flavors giving this a
plump, flattering feel. Features a lingering pineapple note.
From Mulderbosch winemaker Adam Mason. Chenin
Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Smillon, Viognier, Muscat
dAlexandrie and Muscat de Frontignan. Drink now
through 2017. 415 cases made.J.M.

88

Raats FamilyChenin Blanc Stellenbosch

Original Unwooded 2014 $15 Lively white peach

and green almond notes streak along, picking up yellow

apple and star fruit hints. Offers a fresh, floral-edged finish. Drink now through 2017. 1,500 cases imported.J.M.

86

Man VintnersChenin Blanc Coastal Region

Free-run Steen 2015 $11 Light and fresh, with hon-

eysuckle and white peach notes. Clean finish. Drink now.

18,000 cases imported.J.M.

136

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SOUTH AFRICA

Man VintnersShiraz Coastal Region

Skaapveld 2014 $11 An open style, with soft-edged

SOUTH AFRICA
Other

93

MullineuxChenin Blanc Swartland Olerasay

NV $80/375ml Intense, with maple, candied blood
orange and dried apricot notes forming the core, underscored by racy clementine and tangerine accents that drive
the green teainfused finish. Long and built on sweetness,
with an electric edge for balance. A dessert style, this contains a blend of the 2008 through 2014 vintages. Drink
now through 2030. 225 cases made.J.M.

93 Sadie FamilySoldaat Piekenierskloof 2014

$65 High-pitched and finely tuned, this has shiso leaf,
savory and pepper notes liberally gilding a core of elegant
raspberry, blood orange and damson plum fruit. A light
cherry pit edge holds the finish, while the acidity reverberates like a tuning fork. Grenache. Drink now through
2022. 276 cases made.J.M.

93
$45

Duncan SavageWestern Cape White 2014

Gorgeous talc, green almond, honeysuckle and

verbena notes lead the way, followed by flavors of white
peach, salted butter and blanched almond. The long, pure,
chiseled finish should expand steadily with some cellaring. Sauvignon Blanc and Smillon. Drink now through
2020. 483 cases made.J.M.

New Releases: South Africa / Spain

92

ChamonixTroika Reserve Franschhoek 2013

$45

This solid red exhibits layers of warm cocoa and

freshly drawn espresso over a core of dark fig, blackberry
and black currant confiture flavors. Everything melds
nicely through the broad, dense, silky finish, with a long
echo of tobacco. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot and Merlot. Drink now through 2020. 250
cases imported.J.M.

92

Sadie FamilyKokerboom Olifants River 2014

$70 Still very tight, with tangerine, white peach and

verbena notes that show lots of energy, while salted butter and orange zest details fill in on the finish. Shows
lovely cut and length. Should broaden out with some cellaring. Smillon. Best from 2017 through 2021. 121 cases
made.J.M.

92

Duncan SavageFollow The Line Western

Cape 2014 $45 Alluring, with a black tea note lead-

86 Man VintnersChardonnay Coastal Region

Padstal 2015 $11 A fresh, floral-edged style, with a

93 Bodegas La EmperatrizRioja Finca La

Emperatriz Crianza 2010 $22 See Smart Buys,

honeysuckle note gilding the core of white peach and yellow apple fruit. Offers a breezy, unadorned finish. Drink
now. 4,000 cases imported.J.M.

page 118.

86 Man VintnersMerlot Coastal Region Jan

Fiskaal 2014 $11 Straightforward, with a mediumweight beam of cherry and red currant preserve flavors,
lined with subtle mint and singed cinnamon hints. Drink
now. 250 cases imported.J.M.

86

Man VintnersSauvignon Blanc Western

Cape Warrelwind 2015 $11 Fresh, with light chive,
lemon zest and thyme notes. Quick finish. Drink now.
3,800 cases imported.J.M.

85 BoekenhoutskloofCabernet Sauvignon
Coastal Region Porcupine Ridge 2014 $13 A light

ing the way for silky cherry, raspberry and blood orange
fruit flavors. Lingering dried anise, incense and bergamot
notes line the finish. Elegant, but sneakily deep and long.
Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2020.
266 cases made.J.M.

savory thread gives the modest cherry pie and singed

vanilla core some lift, with a soft, easy finish. Drink now.
1,500 cases imported.J.M.

91

Montsant & Priorat

Sadie FamilyPofadder Swartland 2014 $60

Offers a dusty edge and an elegant feel, with blood orange,

cherry pit, shiso leaf and rooibos tea notes gliding through,
framed by a twinge of sandalwood on the finish. Very
pretty. Cinsault. Drink now through 2018. 346 cases
made.J.M.

91

Sadie FamilyTreinspoor Swartland 2014

$60 This delivers bouncy, slightly chunky blackberry,
raspberry and damson plum coulis flavors, laced with a
balsam-tinged spine. A lingering black tea note drapes
over the finish. Tinta Barocca. Drink now through 2020.
452 cases made.J.M.

90 Klein ConstantiaConstantia Red 2013

$27

Dark in profile, with a charcoal frame around steeped

plum, fig and black currant fruit flavors that give way to
bittersweet cocoa, mint and smoldering tobacco notes on
the finish. For fans of the old-school style. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now through
2018. 3,400 cases made.J.M.

90 Klein ConstantiaSauvignon Blanc Constantia Perdeblokke 2014 $30 Tightly coiled, with verbena, white asparagus and tarragon notes weaving around
a core of lemon curd. Reveals a light paraffin echo on the
finish. Let this unwind a bit. Drink now through 2018.
670 cases made.J.M.

88 Klein ConstantiaSauvignon Blanc Constantia 2014 $20 Focused, with a core of citrus peel and

SPAIN
92

Marco AbellaPriorat Mas Mallola 2011 $50

Light, firm and energetic, this red delivers lively flavors

of black cherry, licorice, tobacco, mountain herb and
smoke that mingle over light, firm tannins. Kept fresh by
juicy acidity, this is focused and graceful. Drink now
through 2021. 1,550 cases made.T.M.

90 Marco AbellaPriorat Clos Abella 2010

$90

This thick and juicy red delivers ripe flavors of blackberry,

plum pudding, cola and spice, supported by firm tannins
and balsamic acidity. Muscular but expressive. Drink now
through 2020. 58 cases made.T.M.

90 VinergiaPriorat Lo Tros 2013 $27 This juicy

red offers lively flavors of black cherry, licorice, toast and
vanilla that are fresh and focused, supported by light, firm
tannins and crisp acidity. Polished and graceful. Drink
now through 2020. 415 cases made.T.M.
89

Buil & GinMontsant 17-XI 2014 $21 Black

tarragon notes and a bright, racy finish. Drink now. 23,000

cases made.J.M.

cherry, licorice, mountain herb, mineral and smoke flavors mingle in this round, polished red, which is modest
in structure, yet quite sleek, balanced and fresh. Drink
now through 2020. 3,700 cases made.T.M.

88

88

Man VintnersMourvdre Paarl Tormentoso

2014 $14 The plum and cherry paste flavors have a
mouthcoating feel, with a light leathery spine and hints
of singed spice on the finish. Drink now through 2017.
600 cases imported.J.M.

87

Man VintnersPinotage Coastal Region

Bosstok 2014 $11 A juicy, fruit-driven version, with

warm cherry and plum paste notes, backed by a roasted

vanilla bean accent that coats the finish. Drink now. 6,200
cases imported.J.M.

87

Man VintnersPinotage Paarl Tormentoso

Bush Vine 2014 $14 Direct and polished, with a beam
of cherry preserves and red licorice, pushed by a hint of
singed vanilla on the finish. Drink now. 800 cases
imported.J.M.

87

MarvelousBlue Label Western Cape 2013

$15 Direct, with a core of black cherry lined with light

bay, olive and bramble accents. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Drink now.
480 cases imported.J.M.

red has a thick texture, with firm tannins, showing more

structure than flavor for now. The balanced core of currant, licorice, espresso and mineral opens into floral and
spicy notes on the finish. Delivers power with grace, in
the modern style. Best from 2017 through 2027. 165 cases
made.T.M.

90 Marqus

de CceresRioja MC 2013 $31

Lively and focused, this red delivers cherry, leafy, licorice

and smoky flavors on a firm, sleek frame. Juicy acidity
powers the mineral and floral finish. Drink now through
2023. 250 cases imported.T.M.

90 Rodriguez SanzoRioja Lacrimus Seleccin

de Familia 2011 $30 This generous red delivers plum,
toast, coffee and spice notes in a round, thick texture,
supported by moderate tannins and balsamic acidity. A
big wine, but remains harmonious and gentle. Drink now
through 2021. 1,200 cases made.T.M.

90 Bodegas

Pasanau GermansPriorat Ceps Nous 2013

$20 Savory and spicy notes of licorice, cigar box and

cardamom frame a deep core of plum and kirsch in this
expressive red. Firm tannins and balsamic acidity impart
a solid structure. Drink now through 2023. 1,500 cases
made.T.M.

91

93 Bodegas La EmperatrizRioja Finca La

Emperatriz Parcela No 1 2011 $78 This muscular

Clos de NitMontsant Crianza 2012 $12 Firm

and polished, this red offers plum, tobacco, licorice,
leather and smoky flavors over firm tannins. Austere, in
a good way, kept lively by balsamic acidity. Garnacha,
Cariena and Syrah. Drink now through 2020. 2,000 cases
made.T.M.

87

Vertical WinesMontsant LEfecte Volador

2014 $15 A plush texture carries bright flavors of tart

cherry, cranberry, fresh herb and licorice in this lively red.

Racy acidity gives way to a tangy finish. Drink now
through 2018. 2,000 cases made.T.M.

SPAIN

del Marqus de VargasRioja

Privada Reserva 2009 $70 Blackberry, black olive,
espresso and toasted vanilla flavors give this red a brooding character, while the polished texture, firm tannins
and balsamic acidity impart balance and brightness.
Savory and vibrant. Drink now through 2023. 1,000 cases
made.T.M.

89

Marqus de CceresRioja Crianza 2012 $15

See Smart Buys, page 119.

89

Marqus de CceresRioja Reserva 2011

$25 Sleek and firm, this red offers black cherry, licorice,

coffee and smoky flavors, supported by solid tannins and

kept fresh by lively acidity. Harmonious, in a savory style.
Drink now through 2024. 13,800 cases imported.T.M.

89

Bodegas Domeco de JarautaRioja Solar de

Castro Vendimia Seleccionada 2013 $19 Smoky
and tarry notes frame a core of plum and blackberry fruit
in this firm red. Licorice and black olive accents lend this
a savory character, supported by firm tannins and lively
acidity. Drink now through 2023. 5,000 cases made.T.M.

88

Bodega ClassicaRioja Hacienda Lopez de

Haro Reserva 2008 $15 Licorice, tar and cedar notes
frame modest plum fruit in this savory red. Offers a lean
texture, with balsamic acidity and light, firm tannins. A
bit austere, but focused. Drink now through 2018. 60,000
cases made.T.M.

86

Bodegas y Viedos IlurceGraciano Rioja Rio

Madre 2014 $11 Juicy fruit flavors of blackberry and

boysenberry are crisp and clean in this bright, lively red.

Citrusy acidity and light, firm tannins provide focus. Drink
now through 2020. 5,000 cases made.T.M.

86

MontebuenaRioja Cuve KPF 2014 $13

This supple red delivers focused flavors of cherry and fresh

herb, with licorice and smoky notes. The silky texture has
some depth, and well-integrated acidity keeps this lively.
Drink now through 2020. 15,000 cases made.T.M.

85

El Coto de RiojaRioja Rosado 2015 $12

Berry and watermelon flavors are bright and fresh in this

dry ros, along with notes of fresh herb and a touch of
spice. A lively, international style. Drink now. 3,200 cases
made.T.M.

Rioja

93

Marqus de CceresRioja Excellens Cuve

Especial 2012 $21 Blackberry, licorice, mineral and
toasty flavors show depth and focus in this solid red. Wellintegrated tannins and firm acidity give this structure,
leading to a floral and spicy finish. Drink now through
2024. 800 cases imported.T.M.

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New Releases: Spain

90 Marqus de GrionDominio de Valdepusa

SPAIN
Other Red

93

Marqus de GrionPetit Verdot Dominio

de Valdepusa 2011 $40 Dense and focused, this
muscular red delivers black currant, licorice, tar and
game flavors that fight their way through a wall of tannins. Remains balanced, with mineral and floral notes
emerging on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2027.
1,125 cases made.T.M.

92 Losada Vinos de FincaBierzo Altos de

Losada 2011 $38 This red is dense yet graceful, with
bold flavors of cassis, cocoa, licorice, balsamic and mineral that remain focused and harmonious. The structure
is light but balanced, with a spicy, savory finish that brings
you back for another sip. Drink now through 2020. 2,000
cases made.T.M.

92

Bernard MagrezToro Paciencia 2012 $30

Firm and polished, this red delivers bright flavors of plum,

currant, licorice, tar and loamy earth, with balance and
energy. Lithe and expressive, with good depth. Drink now
through 2022. 1,800 cases made.T.M.

92

Vinyes del TerrerTarragona Terrer dAubert

2012 $35 Black cherry, blackberry, licorice, graphite
and toasty flavors mingle in this polished, harmonious
red, with a good balance of well-integrated tannins and
acidity. The long finish shows floral and mineral notes.
Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2020. 1,500
cases made.T.M.

91

Bodegas EgoJumilla Infinito 2012 $75

Cola, licorice and leather notes frame plum and tar

flavors in this savory red. Theres good depth beneath the
polished texture, with balanced tannins and balsamic
acidity for structure. Monastrell and Petit Verdot. Drink
now through 2020. 210 cases imported.T.M.

91

Liberalia EnologicaToro Cuatro Crianza

2012 $43 This red shows density and balance. Currant

and kirsch flavors are supported by toast and mineral

flavors, with accents of licorice and tar. Firm tannins and
racy acidity keep the rich texture focused. Powerful, in
the modern style. Drink now through 2022. 1,700 cases
made.T.M.

90 Alvarez de ToledoMenca Vio de la Tierra

de Castilla y Len Seoro de la Antigua Finca
Cabanela 2012 $32 Black cherry, licorice, fresh herb
and smoke flavors have focus and energy in this lively red.
Bright acidity and light, firm tannins support a polished
texture. Balanced. Drink now through 2018. 2,700 cases
made.T.M.

90 Bodegas

87 Bodegas NavalonTempranillo Valdepeas

Anciano Gran Reserva 2004 $16 This robust red

has currant, licorice, sanguine and mineral flavors, with

firm tannins and balsamic acidity. Austere, but has depth.
Best from 2017 through 2025. 1,500 cases made.T.M.

shows a lean but muscular structure, with black cherry,

dried herb and vanilla flavors. A bit rustic, but balanced.
Drink now. 40,000 cases made.T.M.

90 Bodegas

Resalte de PeafielRibera del

Duero de Restia Crianza Selected Harvest 2011 $20

87 Bodega Virgen de la SierraGarnacha

Calatayud Albada Vias Viejas 2013 $10 Flavors

See Smart Buys, page 118.

of strawberry and cherry are bright and fresh in this lively

red. Light tannins and fresh acidity keep this focused, with
just enough structure for food. Drink now. 8,000 cases
made.T.M.

90 SobreoToro Seleccin Especial 2010

$35

Cherry, roasted plum, clove and tobacco flavors mingle

in this sturdy red. Features thick tannins and balsamic
acidity, with a savory core of loamy earth. Solid and deep,
this is a bit rustic but still fresh. Drink now through 2020.
8,500 cases made.T.M.

89

Bodegas AragonesasGarnacha Campo de

Borja Coto de Hayas Centenaria 2014 $15 Cocoa

and cardamom notes frame blackberry and clove flavors

in this plush red. The smooth texture is supported by
unobtrusive tannins and gentle acidity. Seamless through
the spicy finish. Drink now through 2018. 3,000 cases
made.T.M.

89

Vios de ArganzaCabernet SauvignonMencia Vio de la Tierra de Castilla y Len Palacio

de Arganza 2012 $10 Firm and focused, this red shows

plum, blackberry, licorice and black olive flavors, with

firm tannins and balsamic acidity for support. Sturdy and
fresh, showing grip and some depth. Drink now through
2018. 9,500 cases made.T.M.

89

Marqus de GrionDominio de Valdepusa

Caliza 2011 $20 Currant, black olive, sanguine and

espresso flavors mingle in this powerful red. Muscular

tannins and balsamic acidity lend formidable structure,
but this stays fresh on the finish. An austere, savory style.
Best from 2017 through 2024. 7,500 cases made.T.M.

89

Compaa Vitivincola TandemNavarra

Ars Nova 2010 $23 This generous red shows a good

balance of fruity and savory flavors, with black cherry,

clove, smoke and mineral notes. Features a balanced structure and a fresh finish. Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases
imported.T.M.

88 Vios de ArganzaVio de la Tierra de

Castilla y Len Palacio de Arganza 2013 $10
This red offers a light but plush texture, with cherry, floral and vanilla flavors, supported by light tannins and
fresh acidity. Not powerful, but harmonious and graceful,
with a spicy finish. Drink now through 2018. 10,000 cases
made.T.M.

88

Bodegas EgoJumilla Goru Verde 2014 $15

Black cherry, boysenberry, cola and leafy notes mingle in

this expressive red. Plush yet polished, this is backed by
firm tannins and sweet-tart acidity. Solid. Monastrell.
Drink now through 2020. 5,700 cases made.T.M.

EgoJumilla
Fuerza 2013 $22 Notes of cola,

sassafras and clove frame a deep

core of plum and currant fruit in
this dense red. The texture is plush
and polished, supported by wellintegrated tannins and balsamic
acidity. Monastrell and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Drink now through
2020. 4,000 cases made.T.M.

Emeritus 2011 $90 Assertive and muscular, this red

88

Bodegas NavalonTempranillo Valdepeas

Anciano Crianza 2010 $10 Savory notes of smoke,

SANTOS ORTIZ
& IOANA PAUNESCU
Owners & Winemakers

90 Bodegas FusinRibera del Duero Lara O

Crianza 2011 $32

A plush texture carries round

flavors of plum, mulled spices, tobacco and chocolate,
with sanguine and game notes adding a savory balance.
Light, firm tannins and balsamic acidity provide structure.
Drink now through 2021. 833 cases made.T.M.

90 Marqus de GrionCabernet Sauvignon

Dominio de Valdepusa 2011 $40 Thick and firm,
this solid red offers plum, black olive, licorice, tar and
sanguine flavors, with muscular tannins and balsamic acidity. Chewy, dense and austere. Best from 2017 through
2024. 1,550 cases made.T.M.

138

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tar and leather frame dried cherry and balsamic flavors in

this lean red. The fruit picks up a pretty floral accent, gliding through the fresh finish. Harmonious, in an old-school
style. Drink now. 100,000 cases made.T.M.

87

Bodegas EgoMonastrell-Syrah Jumilla

Marionette 2014 $13 Plum and boysenberry flavors

have a brambly, racy edge in this lively red, backed by

chocolate and toasty notes and supported by sweet-tart
acidity. Heady and exuberant. Drink now through 2018.
8,750 cases made.T.M.

87 Bodegas Lo NuevoGarnacha Calatayud

Sorbo a Sorbo Old Vines 2014 $11 The juicy plum
fruit is framed by toast, baking spice and leafy flavors in
this generous red. Light, firm tannins and fresh acidity
keep this focused through the spicy finish. Drink now
through 2020. 3,600 cases imported.T.M.

86 Bodegas AragonesasTempranillo Campo de

Borja Via Temprana Old Vines 2014 $8 This light,
tender red is fresh and fruity, with cherry, leafy and smoky
flavors in a supple texture. Juicy acidity keeps this lively
and focused, bringing you back for another sip. Drink now.
10,000 cases made.T.M.

86

Compaa Vitivincola TandemNavarra Ars

In Vitro 2012 $15 Herbal and black olive notes add a

savory note to the modest black cherry fruit in this supple

red. Light tannins and balsamic acidity impart modest structure, while smoke and licorice accents linger. Tempranillo
and Merlot. Drink now. 2,500 cases imported.T.M.

85

Vios de ArganzaTempranillo-Mencia Vio

de la Tierra de Castilla y Len Palacio de Arganza
2012 $10 This thick red offers plum, black olive and
espresso flavors, with firm tannins and balsamic acidity.
A bit rustic in style, but has grip. Drink now through 2018.
14,000 cases made.T.M.

85 San AlejandroGarnacha Calatayud Las

Rocas 2013 $14 A smooth texture carries ripe cherry
and plum flavors, with vanilla and herbal accents, supported by light tannins and gentle acidity. A bit candied,
but stays fresh through the finish. Drink now through
2018. 40,000 cases imported.T.M.

85

VinergiaGarnacha Cariena Campos de Luz

Old Vine 2014 $10 This supple red delivers fresh and
balanced flavors of plum, licorice and toast, with light
tannins and lively acidity. Refreshing. Drink now. 79,165
cases made.T.M.

SPAIN
Sparkling & White

92 Bodegas CampanteGodello Ribeiro Via

Reboreda 2014 $15 This mouthwatering white shows
depth and purity, with harmonious flavors of pear, quince,
almond and smoke mingling in a generous texture, kept
lively by citrusy acidity and briny minerality. Drink now
through 2018. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,600
cases made.T.M.

90 Buil & GinPriorat White Joan Gin 2014

$25

Juicy peach and pineapple flavors mingle with

almond and straw notes in this broad-textured white.
Tangerine acidity gives way to a leesy finish. Bold yet balanced. Drink now through 2020. 590 cases made.T.M.

89

Ferrer EscodaTerra Alta White Brbara

Fors 2014 $18 This firm white has a muscular tex-

ture, with pear and baked apple flavors accented by ginger

and leesy notes. Offers depth and balance, in a savory style.
Garnacha Blanca. Drink now. 300 cases imported.T.M.

89 Juv y CampsBrut Nature Cava Gran Reserva

de la Familia 2011 $16 See Smart Buys, page 119.
89

MadaiGodello Bierzo Origen 2014 $16

Peach, pear, licorice and mineral notes mingle in this generous white. Lively acidity supports the fleshy texture,
keeping this balanced and focused. Drink now through
2018. 500 cases made.T.M.

89

Bodegas Castello de MedinaVerdejo Rueda

2014 $20 A firm texture delivers focused flavors of

peach, tangerine, almond and fennel, powered by racy

acidity that leaves a clean, slightly bitter finish. Refreshing. Drink now through 2018. 2,500 cases made.T.M.

New Releases: Spain / UNITED STATES / California

89

Josep Maria Ravents i BlancBrut Vino

Espumoso de Calidad de Nit 2013 $25 The color
of ballet slippers, this elegant sparkler offers a refined
mousse that carries the white cherry, salted almond, hot
stone and ground white pepper notes. Fresh and focused,
with a hint of mandarin orange peel on the finish. Drink
now through 2019. 16,000 cases made.A.N.

92 Nine SunsNapa Valley 2012 $250 Rich

and smoky, with a supple core of licorice-laced blackberry,
currant and wild berry, turning ever more graceful and
showcasing harmony and finesse. Ends with dusty tannins.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now. 500 cases made.J.L.
91

Ferm BohigasXarel-lo Catalunya 2014 $13

Chiarello FamilyCabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley Bambino E Mamma 2013 $75 Firm

Pear, lychee and almond flavors are modest, clean and

focused in this firm white. The fresh lemony acidity features an intriguing briny edge. Shows purity and balance.
Drink now through 2018. 7,000 cases made.T.M.

and complex, trim around the waist, with earthy currant,

sage, anise and underbrush notes amid crushed rock details. Ultimately elegant in weight and style. Should age
nicely. Drink now through 2024. 385 cases made.J.L.

87

Bodegas CampanteTreixadura-Torronts
Ribeiro Via Reboreda 2014 $12 Juicy flavors of

91

peach and pear mingle with contrasting briny and herbal

notes in this fleshy white. Crisp acidity keeps this lively
through the finish. Drink now. 1,700 cases made.T.M.

add a nice dimension to this structured effort, aimed at

crushed rock, dark berry, herb and underbrush notes, with
chewy tannins. Espresso and mocha details emerge on the
aftertaste. Drink now through 2028. 706 cases made.J.L.

88

87

Bodegas CampilloRioja White 2014 $18

A polished texture carries flavors of green apple, almond

and fresh herb. This is reserved but harmonious, with
lemon peel acidity imparting freshness. Bright and savory.
Drink now through 2018. 1,500 cases imported.T.M.

87 SumarrocaBrut Cava Y Cuve 23 Reserva

2011 $18 A balanced sparkler, with ripe apple and

SnowdenCabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Brothers Vineyard 2013 $80 Aromas of creamy oak

90 FriasCabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain

District 2013 $75

The oak and tannic presence are

evident early on, with cedary tobacco leaf notes and a
taut, gravelly berry edge. A solid effort, dense and chewy,
that holds its cards close to the vest. Best from 2018
through 2028. 645 cases made.J.L.

yellow plum fruit, accented by petrol, spice and biscuit

notes. Fresh, with a citrusy finish of moderate length.
Drink now. 5,000 cases made.A.N.

90 Sequoia GroveCabernet Sauvignon Napa

86

earth, toasty, smoky oak and chewy blackberry and licorice notes. Ends with rich, detailed tannins. Drink now
through 2026. 542 cases made.J.L.

FreixenetExtra Dry Cava Cordon Negro NV

Valley Stagecoach Vineyard Vintner Select 2012

$90 Dense and earthy in a pleasing way, with loamy

$12 A balanced version, with tangy acidity enlivening

the creamy palate of smoke, plum, tangerine and spice.
Drink now. 90,614 cases made.A.N.

90 Sequoia GroveCambium Napa Valley 2012

85

$90

Bodegas Gorka IzagirreBizkaiko Txakolina

2014 $18 A light, lean texture and bright, sharp

acidity give this white a rapierlike character, with modest

flavors of lemon and chalk almost beside the point. Tart
and refreshing. Drink now. 2,000 cases imported.T.M.

85 Bodegas Sierra de GuaraGarnacha Blanca

Spain Ebellium 2014 $12 This fleshy white has a
tinge of ros-like color, with pear, chamomile and green
tea notes mingling over fresh acidity, leaving a clean, floral finish. Distinctive. Drink now. 1,200 cases made.T.M.

United States
CALIFORNIA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends

94

VengeCabernet Sauvignon Calistoga Bone

Ash Vineyard 2013 $95 A stylish expression of Cabernet accented by limestone and subtle, earth-laced dark
berry, licorice and cedary oak flavors. Flexes some muscle,
with a firm, tannic backbone. Most impressive is the persistence of the flavors. Drink now through 2028. 420 cases
made.J.L.

93

FriasCabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2013

$95 A classy effort that combines the best of ripe fruit
and seductive, creamy, mocha-accented oak. The dense
core of earth- and mineral-laced blackberry and currant
sustains this on the long, lingering finish. Drink now
through 2028. 348 cases made.J.L.

93

Stormy WeatherCabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley 2008 $100 A mature wine thats supple
and complex, with mocha- and cedar-scented oak wrapped
around a rich, juicy, elegant core of currant, black cherry,
berry and floral scents. Drink now. 723 cases made.J.L.

92

MoffettCabernet Sauvignon Howell

Mountain 2012 $85 Roasted coffee, hazelnut and

mocha-laced blackberry form the core of this dense, chewy

effort, accented by echoes of fresh-turned earth. Tight and
firm now, with ample fruit pouring through. Drink now
through 2026. 174 cases made.J.L.

Seductive and elegant, with touches of creamy,

smoky, dill-scented oak lending an added dimension to
the currant and blackberry notes. Shows a measure of finesse and refinement, revealing subtle nuances on the
aftertaste. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. Drink now. 546 cases made.J.L.

90 S n o w d e n C a b e r n e t
Sauvignon Napa Valley The
Ranch 2013 $50 One for the
cellar, this is solid, chunky, tannic
and dense in all the right measures,
with dried herb, cedar, dark berry
and gravelly earth notes. Ends with
a cleansing gravelly aftertaste. Best
from 2018 through 2028. 1,570
cases made.J.L.

90 VengeCabernet

CALIFORNIA
Pinot Noir

96 MarcassinPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Three

Sisters Vineyard 2010 $75 See Collectibles, page
117.

94 MarcassinPinot Noir Sonoma Coast

Marcassin Vineyard 2010 $150 A mature Pinot,
moderately rich and fleshy in texture, highlighted by blueberry, raspberry and blackberry flavors that gain depth and
remain expansive. Ends with a splash of anise, fresh earth
and dried herb. Finishes long and elegant. The better of
two bottles tasted. Drink now. 1,200 cases made.J.L.

94

SojournPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gaps

Crown Vineyard 2014 $59 See Highly Recom-

mended, page 117.

93 A.P. VinPinot Noir

Santa Lucia Highlands Garys
Vineyard 2014 $52 A rich,
unctuous style, offering layers of
mocha, blackberry, wild berry, currant and boysenberry, yet for all the
richness, this glides on the palate,
ending with a long, lingering aftertaste that keeps repeating the dark
berry themes. Drink now through
2022. 275 cases made.J.L.

BRENDA & ANDREW

VINGIELLO
Owners & Winemakers

93

A.P. VinPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Kanzler

Vineyard 2014 $52 A potent yet graceful and wellproportioned effort that combines power and finesse, with
rich blackberry, anise, cedar, black licorice and mocha
flavors that are deep and persistent. Drink now through
2022. 275 cases made.J.L.

93

AstonPinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 $65

Well-proportioned, with a mix of herb- and cedar-laced

dark berry, anise, and fresh, loamy earth, this could use a
year or so to soften. The tannins are fine-grained, and the
flavors push through with ease. Drink now through 2022.
800 cases made.J.L.

93

CroixPinot Noir Russian River Valley Old

Manzana Slope 2013 $100 Seductive mocha- and

DIANA SEYSSES
Winemaker

Sauvignon Napa Valley

Silencieux 2013 $55 Rich and well-defined, with a

mix of black licorice, currant, dark berry and mochascented oak flavors. A tad rustic and chunky now, but a
good bet to gain. The finish reveals crushed rock and minerally notes. Drink now. 1,295 cases made.J.L.

89

The Prisoner Wine CompanyCabernet

Sauvignon California Cuttings 2013 $55 Centered

espresso-scented oak leads to a supple, graceful offering

of blueberry and raspberry flavors thats rich without being weighty, gaining depth and revealing extra layers on
a long, sustained finish. Drink now through 2022. 150
cases made.J.L.

93

DonumPinot Noir Carneros Single Vineyard

2013 $72 While taut, the flavors fan out, extending

the snappy wild berry and blackberry to touches of spice

and light oak. Most impressive are the depth, density and
length of the finish, keeping you coming back for another
sip. Drink now through 2022. 650 cases made.J.L.

93

Wren HopPinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills

Architects & Saboteurs 2013 $78 Brimming with

on up-front berry pie flavors that are juicy and direct,

turning somewhat softer and simpler on the finish. This
shows no shortage of easygoing fruit allure. Drink now.
6,000 cases made.J.L.

layers of rich, juicy dark berry, this offers plum, wild berry,
raspberry and boysenberry flavors, featuring touches of
black licorice, anise and subtle earth. Delivers firm, finegrained tannins, ending with a dash of mocha. Drink now.
160 cases made.J.L.

88 InglenookCabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Cask 2012 $75 Both bottles displayed a Bordeaux-like

92

character, presenting seductive dill and cedary oak notes,

which add texture and depth to the licorice-laced currant
and dried herb flavors. Very complete and a good bet to
gain. Drink now through 2024. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 10,000 cases made.J.L.

blackberry, wild berry and wilted rose. Ripe and fullbodied, showing good richness, depth, focus and persistence. Ends with a long, fruity aftertaste. Drink now. 100
cases made.J.L.

87

Rodney StrongCabernet Sauvignon

Alexander Valley 2013 $28 Marked by a spicy, pep-

pery edge and raw tannins. The core of mocha and dark
berry is solid. Drink now. 70,000 cases made.J.L.

A.P. VinPinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Turner

Vineyard 2014 $52 Offers spicy, perfumed aromas of

92

Blue FarmPinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview

King Ridge Vineyard 2013 $80 The initial up front

plum and wild berry flavors are shaded by anise and

crushed rock notes, supported by firm, chewy tannins that
glide along on the finish, unveiling subtle tiers of wilted
rose, lavender, anise and blackberry. Drink now. 189 cases
made.J.L.

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New Releases: California

92

DonumPinot Noir Anderson Valley Angel

Camp Single Vineyard 2013 $90 This combines

90 Black

of cherry pie, smoky cracked pepper and sage. Drink now

through 2023. 220 cases made.T.F.

richness with elegance, restraint and finesse, delivering

caressing blueberry and raspberry notes, and touches of
spice, fresh earth, anise and light cedar. An altogether
graceful style, with understated attributes. Drink now
through 2022. 135 cases made.J.L.

attractive lavender and floral scents, fine-grained tannins

and a mix of raspberry, cherry, plum and light loamy earth
flavors. Ends clean and persistent, retaining grace. Drink
now. 168 cases made.J.L.

91 CohoMerlot Coombsville Michael Black

Vineyard 2012 $55 Rich and well-structured, with

92

Oaks Single Vineyard 2013 $72

DonumPinot Noir Russian River Valley

Single Vineyard 2013 $72 A powerful yet graceful
expression, with smoky oak and cedary notes joined by
intense raspberry, anise, black licorice and roasted herb
details, gaining depth and nuance on the finish without
sacrificing intensity. Best from 2017 through 2024. 890
cases made.J.L.

92

SojournPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Sangiacomo Vineyard 2014 $54 Pure and supple, with a
fleshy middle to the core of cherry, plum and light raspberry, turning to touches of tea, earth and savory herb.
Gains depth and complexity. Drink now. 1,350 cases
made.J.L.

92

Three SticksPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gaps

Crown Vineyard 2013 $65 An exciting example of
rich, vivid, dust- and cedar-shaded dark berry, spice and
mocha notes. This succeeds in delivering a complex mix
of flavors and a wonderful structure. Drink now through
2022. 329 cases made.J.L.

91

AdastraPinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros

2013 $45 Though elegant and refined, this is pleas-

antly rich and layered, with spicy red berry, fresh-turned

earth, anise, tobacco leaf and sage notes. Drink now. 249
cases made.J.L.

91

Black KitePinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gaps

Crown Vineyard 2013 $60 Firm and rich without

being weighty, this features tannins that add grip and

density to the forest floor and earthy components, given
voice by notes of blackberry and blueberry. Long and
lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 273
cases made.J.L.

91 Blue FarmPinot Noir Carneros Anne

Katherina Vineyard 2012 $60 Offers a complex mix
of spicy red berry, fresh earth, anise and cedar notes in an
elegant, refined manner, ending with fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2020. 377 cases made.J.L.

91

Blue FarmPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gaps

Crown Vineyard 2013 $60 Impresses from the

KitePinot Noir Anderson Valley

Redwoods Edge 2013 $60 Enticingly delicate, with

90 DonumPinot Noir Russian River Valley Ten

floral currant and crushed stone aromas and supple, complex flavors of black cherry, dried herb and spice. Drink
now through 2025. 411 cases made.T.F.

This red merges

smoky, toasty, cedary oak with fresh-turned earth and dry
berry notes, making for a restrained, compact presentation that is best served by cellaring. The finish shows
strength of personality. Best from 2017 through 2022. 158
cases made.J.L.

90 Peter FranusZinfandel Mount Veeder

Brandlin Vineyard 2013 $38 This Zin is big and ripe,

90 Merry

EdwardsPinot Noir Russian River

Valley Georganne 2013 $60 This is anchored by

90 InglenookZinfandel Rutherford Edizione

Pennino 2013 $48 A Zin for Chianti-lovers, offering

ripe, aromatic blackberry, wild berry and loamy black

licorice notes, with floral scents and flavors. Combining
density, richness and persistence, this ends with power
and finesse. Drink now. 553 cases made.J.L.

lively acidity and good focus, combined with zesty flavors

of cherry, dill and smoky spice. Drink now through 2023.
2,800 cases made.T.F.

90 Sea

Valley Bacigalupi Vineyard 2013 $55 Focused and

SmokePinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills

Southing 2013 $60 Elegantly styled, with spicy earth
and floral-scented plum and raspberry flavors, offering
delicate, understated notes that linger and gain depth.
Drink now through 2020.J.L.

90 Three SticksPinot Noir Sonoma Coast Durell

Vineyard 2013 $65 Exhibits a graceful mix of plum,
cherry, pennyroyal and light oak flavors, supported by
fine-grained tannins. Ends with a subtle blend of fruit and
underbrush. Drink now. 585 cases made.J.L.

90 Wren

HopPinot Noir Green Valley of

Russian River Valley Witchs Ladder 2013 $72

Very rich and potent, with tiers of extracted blackberry,

anise and licorice flavors, complemented by gutsy tannins.
Far from the mainstream, this represents a style that edges
closer to full-blown Cabernet or Syrah than delicate
Pinot. Should be worth the wait to see how this eases past
its tannic youth. Drink now through 2020. 288 cases
made.J.L.

90 Wren HopPinot Noir Russian River Valley

but balanced by lively acidity, with aromas of black raspberry and peppered herb opening to focused flavors of wild
berry, grilled anise and mineral. Drink now through 2022.
1,200 cases made.T.F.

90 Williams SelyemZinfandel Russian River

well-structured, but still briary at heart. Aromas of raspberry and fresh sage combine with zesty flavors of cherry,
white pepper and grilled anise. Drink now through 2023.
278 cases made.T.F.

CALIFORNIA
Sparkling & White

92 Brewer-CliftonChardonnay Sta. Rita Hills

3D 2013 $75 Smooth and creamy, with a broad array
of fig, melon, butterscotch and toasty oak flavors and hints
of anise and herb. Maintains focus and ends with a long,
full-bodied aftertaste. Drink now. 188 cases made.J.L.

92 Brewer-CliftonChardonnay Sta. Rita Hills

Machado 2013 $75 This white offers a distinctive core
of jasmine-scented pear and nectarine flavors, with lively
acidity and a pithy texture, leading to a strong finish that
shows a measure of tannins. Drink now. 98 cases
made.J.L.

Oracles Whisper 2013 $72 Rich to the edge of

syrupy, with uncommon extraction and ripeness. Offers a
core of blueberry, wild berry, currant, plum and mocha
flavors. Finishes with a strong, persistent aftertaste. Drink
now through 2020. 332 cases made.J.L.

92

88

Fess ParkerPinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2013

Iron HorseBrut Green Valley of Russian

River Valley LD 2000 $110 Beautifully structured
and aging gracefully, this sparkler slowly unveils layers of
toasty brioche, baked apple, hazelnut and almond. Drink
now. 40 cases made.T.F.

get-go, with rich dark berry, mineral, savory herb and

fresh-turned earth flavors. Firms midpalate, sustaining
focus and persistence. Ends with edgy, gripping tannins.
Drink now. 213 cases made.J.L.

$30

Smoky, toasty oak aromas add allure to this medium-weight, moderately rich effort, with ripe plum and
blackberry notes. Drink now. 8,359 cases made.J.L.

92 Williams SelyemChardonnay Russian River

Valley Drake Estate Vineyard 2013 $65 Balanced

91

CALIFORNIA

to a T, this displays complex pear, anise, vanilla and butterscotch hints, with a firm, pithy backbone of acidity.
The long aftertaste reverberates. Drink now. 405 cases
made.J.L.

Other Red

90 Brewer-CliftonChardonnay Sta. Rita Hills

DonumPinot Noir Anderson Valley Single

Vineyard 2013 $72 Combines elegance with finesse,

featuring a core of spicy wild berry and raspberry flavors.

Light lavender and subtle crushed rock details give this a
cleansing aftertaste. Drink now. 423 cases made.J.L.

91 DonumPinot Noir Russian River Valley

Single Vineyard Reserve 2013 $90 Tight and backward, with a core of concentrated red and dark berry, cedary oak, anise and loamy earth notes. Best served with
some aeration. Most impressive on the finish, where the
tannins give the flavors traction. Drink now through 2024.
293 cases made.J.L.

91

SojournPinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 $39

Exhibits a solid core of complex earth and anise notes,

with dried berry and herb flavors. Shows a strong crushed
rock edge, turning up cedar and road tar hints amid the
anise details. Drink now through 2020. 1,925 cases
made.J.L.

91

Williams SelyemPinot Noir Russian River

Valley Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard 2013 $105
Complex, featuring a mix of anise, black licorice, sandy
earth, smoky oak, blackberry and currant flavors, all running deep and persistent. Long on the finish, with wellintegrated tannins. Drink now. 547 cases made.J.L.

140

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93

TurleyPetite Syrah Paso Robles Pesenti

Vineyard 2013 $35 Powerful, complex and aromatic,
with dried rose petal and white pepper accents that add
elegance and complexity to the core of round, thick huckleberry and boysenberry flavors. The tannins are plush. A
note of black walnut lingers on the finish. Drink now
through 2030. 450 cases made.M.W.

92

AdaptationPetite Sirah Napa Valley 2013

$44

Thick, chewy tannins present a bold framework

for gingerbread, black cherry, chai tea and plum flavors.
Generous and focused, lingering on the long finish. Drink
now through 2030. 1,140 cases made.M.W.

92

Howell Mountain VineyardsZinfandel

Howell Mountain Old Vine 2013 $45 Briary wild

berry aromas open to complex, well-structured flavors of

blackberry, licorice and cracked pepper. The tannins are
big, but fleshy and ripe. Drink now through 2024. 350
cases made.T.F.

91

BacigalupiZinfandel Russian River Valley

2013 $48 Vibrant and nicely balanced, offering floral
raspberry and licorice aromas, layered with supple flavors

Acin 2013 $65 Pure, rich and fruity, with smoothtextured pear, apple, melon and white peach flavors. Clean
and refreshing throughout, ending with a delicate honeysuckle aftertaste. Drink now. 87 cases made.J.L.

90 Brewer-CliftonChardonnay Sta. Rita Hills

Gnesa 2013 $60 Marked by perfumed, floral scents,
with a core of citrus-laced pear and green apple. Pleasantly
intense and focused, this is most appealing on the persistent finish, where the flavors fold together, showing
a measure of harmony and finesse. Drink now. 91 cases
made.J.L.

90 Domaine

CarnerosBrut Ros Carneros

Cuve de la Pompadour NV $37 As delicate and

pretty as a flower petal, this blush offers crisp and supple

notes of raspberry, orange peel and spiced cinnamon.
Drink now. 4,500 cases made.T.F.

90 Iron HorseCuve M Green Valley of Russian

River Valley 2010 $62 Sleek and focused, yet plush,
with bright fruit accented by hints of lemon curd, orange
zest and crisp apple that glide into a toasted nut finish.
Drink now. 200 cases made.T.F.

New Releases: California / Washington

89 Adobe RoadSauvignon Blanc Knights

Valley Bavarian Lion Vineyard 2014 $26 Opens

91

AmaviCabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla

Valley 2013 $32 Rich and ripe, playing its blueberry,

91

with a fresh green note of lemongrass and lime zest, showing vivid grapefruit flavors. Finishes with a spicy, almond
skin detail. Drink now. 232 cases made.M.W.

plum and spice flavors against nubby tannins, shaping

them into the round and expressive finish. Drink now
through 2023. 6,387 cases made.H.S.

with a grapefruit pith grace note adding a touch of refreshing bitterness to the focused cherry and plum flavors.
Comes together harmoniously on the velvety, mediumweight finish. Drink now through 2019. 250 cases
made.H.S.

91

WASHINGTON
Cabernet Franc & Blends

92

Fall LineArtz Vineyard Red Mountain

2012 $35 Focused, fresh and inviting, with a glow of

blueberry, currant, clotted cream and gentle spice flavors,

flowing smoothly against polished tannins into a long finish. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Drink now through 2021. 281 cases made.H.S.

Fielding HillsSyrah Wahluke Slope Riverbend Vineyard 2012 $38 Polished, deftly balanced

and expressive, with guava-accented cherry and raspberry

flavors, picking up a chamomile note as the finish lingers.
Drink now through 2020. 162 cases made.H.S.

91

Force MajeureCabernet Sauvignon Red

Mountain Force Majeure Vineyard 2013 $90 Broad
and expressive, with cherry, herb, cocoa and spice flavors
that play against well-buffed tannins, gliding into a long
finish. Drink now through 2023. 210 cases made.H.S.

92 Owen RoeRed Willow Vineyard Yakima

Valley 2012 $85 A broad and generous red, with spiky

91

tannins around a fleshy core of orange peelaccented

blackberry and cherry flavors, hinting at coffee notes as
this rides into a long and harmonious finish. Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2017
through 2022. 508 cases made.H.S.

pear, clotted cream, honey and spice flavors in a polished

package, lingering effortlessly on the finish. This may develop more with cellaring. Drink now through 2019. 70
cases made.H.S.

91

Fielding HillsCabernet Franc Wahluke Slope

Riverbend Vineyard 2012 $32 Supple and generous,

Force MajeureViognier Red Mountain Force

Majeure Vineyard 2014 $40 Supple and ripe, with

91 Fielding HillsTribute Riverbend Vineyard

Wahluke Slope 2012 $32 Broad and expressive, but

91

tightly wound, with focused flavors of chocolate-accented

black cherry and licorice pushing through the well-modulated tannins into a long and detailed finish. Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Drink now
through 2021. 215 cases made.H.S.

Sturdy and focused, with a sense of restraint to the rich

dark berry, cherry, floral and spice flavors, finishing with
detail and presence. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2021.
475 cases made.H.S.

glows with blackberry, cherry and floral flavors, hinting

at espresso as the medium-weight finish lingers. Drink
now through 2020. 296 cases made.H.S.

WASHINGTON
Other

and black pepper notes weaving through the dark plum

flavors, lingering against crunchy tannins. Finishes with
extra oomph and an open texture. Best from 2017 through
2020. 500 cases made.H.S.

90 WaterbrookViognier Columbia Valley Als

Run 2014 $20 Polished and inviting, packed with
pear, lemon curd, floral and caramel flavors that keep
swirling into the long, medium-weight finish. Drink now
through 2019. 412 cases made.H.S.

Lady HillCuve Elfrieda Zorn Red Willow

Vineyard Columbia Valley 2013 $40 Broad and

generous, with fine tannins framing the core of cherry, floral and black pepper flavors. The finish is supple and expressive. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2017 through 2023. 425 cases made.H.S.

2013 $35 Fresh and inviting, velvety in texture, this

91 Sleight of HandSyrah Columbia Valley

Levitation 2013 $45 Broad and peppery, with licorice

91

with glints of mint shining through the rich black cherry

and chocolate flavors, finishing with polish and persistence. Drink now through 2021. 198 cases made.H.S.

90 Lady HillCabernet Franc Columbia Valley

Sleight of HandGrenache Columbia Valley

The Sorceress 2013 $60 Vital, sleek and distinctive,

Lady HillCuve tienne Lucier Slide

Mountain Vineyard Columbia Valley 2013 $40

91

MilbrandtViognier Wahluke Slope The Estates Clifton

Vineyard 2014 $22 Lively, refreshing and juicy, with pear, lychee,
lemon verbena and spice flavors
that dance through the deft but
richly textured finish. Drink now.
660 cases made.H.S.

BUTCH & JERRY

MILBRANDT
Owners

93

Goose RidgeSol Duc Estate Meritage

Columbia Valley 2010 $50 Lithe, expressive and

inviting, with plum, currant and spice notes that play

against peppery tannins on the focused finish. This has
layers of flavor compressed into a compelling beam. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Drink
now through 2022. 236 cases made.H.S.

92 AvenniaSyrah Yakima Valley Arnaut

Boushey Vineyard 2013 $50 Bright and spacious,
with plum, mulberry and floral flavors that unfurl smoothly
over a sleek frame, finishing with focus and generosity.
The tannins are nicely resolved. Drink now through 2021.
425 cases made.H.S.

92

HightowerMerlot Walla Walla Valley Pepper

Bridge Vineyard 2012 $30 Fresh, lively and focused,

with mint-accented blueberry and currant flavors and a

long, detailed, slightly earthy finish. Tannins wrap crisply
around the structure but dont intrude on the generous flavors. Best from 2017 through 2022. 222 cases made.H.S.

92

PamplinCabernet Sauvignon Columbia

Valley 2012 $50 A lithe, glassy and expressive red,

layering black cherry, black tea, leather and spice flavors

with welcome transparency, persisting beautifully on the
finish. Drink now through 2022. 212 cases made.H.S.

92

Sleight of HandSyrah Walla Walla Valley

The Psychedelic Stoney Vine Estate Vineyard 2013
$60 Supple, ripe and expressive, weaving olive and
meaty notes through the dark berry and plum flavors, lingering evocatively on the open-framed finish. Drink now
through 2021. 250 cases made.H.S.

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CLASSIFIEDS
TO PLACE AN AD,
CONTACT CHRISTINA CHIAFFITELLA,
at (212) 481-8610 ext. 321
or cchiaffitella@mshanken.com

BUYI NG /S E L L I NG F I NE WI NE

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FAQ

BERRY SUPERSTITIOUS
Wine is a product of science and faith. Some winegrowing philosophies are rooted in both worlds:
Biodynamics, based on lectures by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1924, employs organic practices
along with methods intended to engage supernatural forces.

COSMIC COMPOST
Biodynamic farming practitioners tap into non-material forces and harness the earths ether, or
life force, through a series of compost preparations that, when added to soil in minute quantities (1
teaspoon to more than 10 tons of soil), are believed to make the land more sensitive to the cosmic
rhythms of the planets.

DR. VINNY

HORN MANURE: A cow horn filled with the manure of a lactating bovine is buried for
six months, fermented manure is then sprayed over the soil; horn acts
as antenna for cosmic forces, homeopathically heals earth

Dear Dr. Vinny,

What is the difference between or-

YARROW: A stags bladder is stuffed with yarrow flowers and hung from a tree for six
months, buried for six months, then unearthed for use in compost; manifests Venus
forces, assists spirit to penetrate matter

ganic and biodynamic farming? Do

these farming methods have an effect
on the final product?
Leong, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

CHAMOMILE: Cow intestines are stuffed with dried chamomile flowers, placed in a jar
and buried for the winter, unearthed and then added to compost wrapped in peat;
manifests Mercury forces, promotes soil life

Dear Leong,
Both organic and biodynamic farming

OAK: The skull of a cow or sheep is filled with powdered oak

bark and buried for six months, unearthed and used in compost; balances plants life forces, enhances moons forces

avoid the use of synthetic chemicals,

and both emphasize soil health. Think
of biodynamic farming as a type of organic agriculture taken a step further.

erals and herbs, kind of like homeopathy

for vineyards. Biodynamic farming also
incorporates cosmic and astrological influences, taking into account lunar cycles, among other things.
Both of these farming techniques
usually mean higher labor costs and
lower yields, meaning you might pay
more for the wines. Their methods are
useful for producing high quality
grapes, but they dont guarantee high
quality winesIve had good wines and
bad wines that were made from organi-

Believers have been attributing supernatural powers

to man-made structures since before pilgrims flocked
to Stonehenge to do whatever it was they went
there to do. Vintners too have constructed wineries
designed to channel otherworldly benefits. Canadas
Summerhill winery is inspired by another ancient architectural giant, Egypts Great Pyramid. Summerhills 3,249-square-foot pyramid uses this sacred
geometry to enhance liquids, amplifying wines aromas and making it smoother. Humans, made mostly
of liquid, will feel their life force energy strengthened inside the pyramid, which its builders insist also
turns milk into yogurt, petrifies raw meat and causes
razor blades to become sharper. Argentinas Trapiche
winery also subscribes to the power of the pyramid,
a crystal version of which encases its tasting room.

cally or biodynamically farmed grapes.

That said, some very prestigious wineries practice biodynamics, including
Benziger, Cayuse, Chapoutier, Domaine
de la Romane- Conti, Domaine
Leflaive, Domaine Leroy, Chteau Pontet-Canet, and many more.
Dr. Vinny
Dr. Vinny provides answers to all sorts of wine
questions, here and at winespectator.com. Submit your queries at www.winespectator.com/
drvinny or on Twitter via @AskDrVinny.

144

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Summerhill winery in British Columbia

Marc
Mondavi

D IV IN E I R R I G ATI O N
The Franzia familys Bronco Wine Co. employs
them. Charles Krugs Marc Mondavi is one. A
water witch, or dowser, is someone who uses
dowsing or divining rodsusually a Y-shaped
twig or two L-shaped copper rodsto lead them
to unseen sources of water such as natural
springs. Dowsing for metals arose in the late
Middle Ages in Europe and was cited by Martin
Luther as a practice of the occult. Settlers of the
American frontier attempted to find water
through the use of divining rods, and some U.S.
Marines thought dowsing could help them find
hidden munitions in Vietnam. While numerous
scientific studies have attempted to test the efficacy of dowsing, most have concluded that the
divining rod is no more effective than chance.

TOP (4): THINKSTOCK, BOTTOM RIGHT: ERIC RISBERG/ AP PHOTO

tality by using preparations from min-

PYRAMID SCHEME

Biodynamic farming attempts to add vi-