10/9/2016

CuttingandSewingQualityScenarioofReadymadeGarmentsTextileLearner

CuttingandSewingQualityScenarioofReadymadeGarments

R.S.BALAKUMAR
M.A.(SOCIOLOGY),M.L.M.(LabourManagement),PursuingMBA(EXECUTIVE)in(FASHIONTECH),MISTE.,
Chennai,India
Cell:+919283182955
Email:rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Cutting:
Cuttingquality is a prerequisite for quality in a finished product. In addition, cut work quality affects the ease and cost
withwhichconstructionisaccomplished.Thequalityofworkleavingthecuttingroomisdeterminedbyhowtruethecut
fabricpartsaretothepatternhowsmoothorroughthecutsurfaceismaterialorfabricpieceswithinabundle.

Cuttingfabric
Inaddition,variousfactorsincuttingthatcanaffectthatcanaffectthesubsequentqualityshoulderbechecked,suchas
underorovercut,size,placementandsequencealignmentofnotchesanddrillholes,rippedorpulledyarns,etc.Dunlap
liststhefollowingdefectsthatmayariseincutting.
Frayed edges: May impede cutting time by clogging the knife action and /or mar the fabric with rips or pulled
yarns. The amount of fraying depends on fabric construction and finish. Improper cutting tools or dull knives
causeexcessivefrayinginapatternasthesectioniscut.
Fuzzy,ragged,orserratededges:Theresultofpoorcuttingimplements.Suchedgeswillimpedesewingand/or
diminishsewingquality.Suchaconditioniscausedbyfaultyknifeedgessuchasburrs,chips,ordullness.
Plytoplyfusion: More common and troublesome. Adjacent plies in a block are fused together, which makes it
difficult for the sewing machine operator to pick up a single ply quality. Fusion occurs due to heat created by
excessively high speed of cutting or by the friction of a dull knife. To prevent fusion, check knife speed, keep
knivessharp,placewaxpaperbetweenfabricplies,andlubricatedcuttingblade.
Singleedgefusion:Consistsofasingleplywhosecutyarnendsarefusedtoformahardbrittlerimoncutedge.
Sometimes, this desirable to prevent fraying however, hardness and brittleness are undesirable if they impede
sewingmanipulationormayresultinseamsuncomfortabletotheconsumer.
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CuttingandSewingQualityScenarioofReadymadeGarmentsTextileLearner

Patternprecision:Misshapeordistortionofthepatternperimeterascut.Whetheritisunderorovercutisdueto
the poor manual control of the cutting machine and poor lines on the marker. To assure precision in a pattern,
check markers before cutting, use tensionless spreading, or allow time for the fabric to relax. After a cut, check
thetop,bottom,andmiddlepliesagainstthepattern.
Notches:Notchsizereferstothedepthofanotch.Ifthedepthistoogreat,thenotchmayshowafteragarment
is sewn. If the notches are too small, sewing operators may have difficulty locating them quickly, resulting in
decreased efficiency. Misplacement of a notch may be due to an improper spread marker, poor control of
acuttingmachinewiththecuttersnotchingtoolstrokingdiagonallyinsteadofvertically,incorrectmarkerinthat
the notches for mating parts do not coincide. Check notch placement against mating pieces. Quality control in
stitchingmaybeaproblemifnotchesarenotaligned.
Drilling: The drill hole may be too large or too small in diameter. In addition, a drill may become too hot due to
highspeedorwrongsize,causingthepliestofusetogetheratthedrillhole.Thedrillmuststrokeverticallytothe
tableforuniformplacementthroughoutthebundle.Sometimesfabricpropertiesaresuchthattheslightmovement
of yarns in a fabric would close a drill hole in such cases, it is necessary to drill holes with a marking fluid. The
drillusedforsuchapurposeishollowandcarriesmarkingfluid(ink)thatisdepositedatthedrillpointonthefabric
as that needle is withdrawn. Such marks should last long enough so that further processing can be finished
withoutdifficulty,butshouldbeeasilyremovableafterprocessingorincaseofanerror.

Sewing:
Inprocessinspectioninsewinginvolvestheinspectionofworkfromeachoperator,withaqualitystandardestablished
tolimittheamountofbadworkpermittedandaprovisionforoperatorstoreinspectandrepairentirebundlesshouldthis
limitbeexceeded.Thedecisiononwheretoplacetheinspectionstationwillbeinfluencedbyvariousfactorssuchasthe
importanceofoperations,andcontrollingtroublesomeorkeyoperations.Sinceinspectioncanoftenbeperformedfortwo
or more operations at the same time , inprocess inspection can be established at various inspection points in sewing
operations, as opposed to the inspector literally selecting work at each operators work station. First, a complete
manufacturingprocesschartshouldbemade,clearlyidentifyingtheproductionormanufacturingstepsforeachtypeof
garmentsmade.Forexample,

Sewinggarments
Markerlaymadeaccordingtocuttingticket.Markerlaychecked100%

1.Collar department: Fuse stays, run collar tops, trim points .turn and press (shape), top stitch, trim tops. Hem
bands,stitchliningtobands.Bandcollar.Turnbandends.Trimandbaste.Quartermarkband.Buttonhole.Button
sew
2.Cuffdepartment:Hemcuff,runcuff.Shapecufftopstitch.Buttonhole.Buttonsews.
3.Underfronts:Basteneck.Creasefront.Hembuttonstay.Buttonsews.setpocket.setflap
4.Upperfronts:Basteneck.Creasefront.Centerpleat.Buttonhole.Setpocket.Setflap
5.Sleeves:Piecebinding,Blindsleeve,Tackbinding
6.Back:Pleat.backs.
7.Yokes:label.sew
8.Markerandmaterialdeliveredtothespreadingoperation.Materialspread
9.Machineknifecut
10.Diecuttingsmallparts
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CuttingandSewingQualityScenarioofReadymadeGarmentsTextileLearner

11. Cutpartsdeliveredtoplants
12.Attachyokebacks
13.Assemblecompletedbundlesofparts,anysize,section,plynumber,and/orshade
14.Joinshouldersteam
15.Joincollartoshirt
16.Setsleeve,joinsideandunderarmseams(sidefell)
17.Cuffattach,hemshirt,trimthreads
18.Buttonshirt,rollcollar,press,fold
19.Pack
Theninspectionpointsorstationshouldbecarefullyselectedsothattheoperationstobecheckedareneithercovered
bylateroperations,nornecessitaterippinggoodworktorepairadefect.Inspectionstationshouldprovideauniformwork
loadforeachinspectorandshouldminimizetheelapsedtimebetweenthecompletionofanoperationanditsinspection.
For example, a sequence of operations for mens dress shirts. Each operator should be told what standard of work is
acceptable and what is not there should be a written quality specification for each job in the manufacturing process.
Wheneverpossible,sketchesofgarmentpartssuchasthoseshouldbeincluded,illustratinghowtheyaresupposedto
appearaftercompletion.
Dimension and tolerances for critical points must be included. Knowledge of the factors that create problems in a
particularoperationhelpsdeterminethespecificdimensionorcharacteristic.Eachinspectorshouldbeclearlytoldwhat
tolookforwhileinspectingvariousoperations.
Booksource:

1.TheTechnologyofClothingManufactureLathamCarr.

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