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A LUXUR
Y BR
FOR TWO EAK
TO
LONDON
Durham Dales
We reveal the secrets of this natural
haven between the Yorkshire Dales
and Northumberland National Parks
Wildlife
wonders
Take a walk on the wild side
with our month-by-month guide
to Britains natural spectacles
Leading lights
The call of
Cambridge
Little Britain
We put the spotlight on the small
buildings that have history to rival
that of our grand stately homes
discoverbritainmag.com
Plus Wordsworths House | Bank of England Museum | Kennet & Avon Canal cruise | Aerofilms Collection
www.foxsoutdoor.co.uk
Amersham Bucks 01494 431431
n
tco en
ts
OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014
Features
28
36
44
Durham Dales
Nick Morrison discovers the built
and natural wonders to be found
within the landscape of the often
overlooked Durham Dales
Small wonders
Faith Eckersall offers her selection
of Britains small historic buildings,
which are just as compelling as
our grand stately homes
PAGE
36
52
58
Britains lighthouses
85
28
Wild Britain
We reveal where and when to
discover the best of Britains
wildlife with our month-by-month
guide to our natural spectacles
68
42
52
26
PAGE
70
PAGE
PAGE
114
42
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70
82
83
Why Cambridgeshire?
With its beautiful fens, historic university
city, museums, windmills and wildlife,
Cambridgeshire has plenty to offer curious
visitors, says Vicky Sartain
Essential experiences
Our selection of the top 15 things to see
and do, from punting on the River Cam,
to visiting Britains oldest nature reserve
and scaling the heights of Ely Cathedral
17
Reviews
26
The Intern
42
Competition
Win a luxury two-night break for two
at the Hotel du Vin, Cambridge in the
heart of the beautiful city
Fact file
Everything you need to know to
plan your trip to Cambridgeshire,
including where to stay, where to eat
and when to visit
Departments
06
08
11
19
113
Editors note
Your words
News & competition
Whats on
Puzzle page
On the cover:
Punting on the
River Cam in
Cambridge.
Photo by Stefano
Baldini/Robert
Harding
68
BACK ISSUES
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Archant Specialist 2014
News distribution: Seymour, 86 Newman Street,
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Editors Note
CONTRIBUTORS
Nick Morrison
Turn to page 28 to
read Nicks guide
to the treasures of
the unsung Durham
Dales. Even though
I grew up in nearby
North Yorkshire, it wasnt until I lived
in Darlington that I started exploring
this unfairly neglected corner of
England that has so much to offer
visitors, both in historical interest
and natural beauty, he says.
MATTHEW HAVERCROFT
Editor
6 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com
iF
a
th
E
Although Britain
might be known
for its grand stately
homes, Faith
decided it was
time our smaller
historic buildings got their turn in
the spotlight. What makes all these
places so special is their humanscale. You cannot help but connect
to their past lives and their purpose,
and I nd that intimacy both moving
and inspiring. See page 36
Anthony Lambert
Anthony reports on
his experience of
paying a visit to the
Bank of England
Museum in the City
of London, where
he learned about its important role
in shaping our national nances
since 1694. It is said that money
makes the world go round, and this
museum informs visitors about the
turbulent role of perhaps the worlds
most famous national bank, he
says. Turn to page 52
Jo Caird
Jo traces the 500year history of
Trinity House, the
charity responsible
for safeguarding
the future of
Britains historic lighthouses. I nd
lighthouses, particularly the ones
I have written about in this issue,
fascinating as symbols of mans
battle with the elements, she says.
I would love to live in one if I could!
See her feature on page 58
NHPA/PHOTOSHOT
Your words
Let us know your thoughts on the magazine. The writer of each letter published receives a prize book
We need you!
Beach memories
What great pictures in your seaside
gallery (English seaside holidays, August/
September 2014). It was amazing to see
how people used to dress for the beach
men in Sunday best! If they could see
Blackpool beachs skimpily attired crowds
today I cant help wonder what they would
say. My nearest beach is Brighton and
Ive found many equally amusing archive
images on a general internet search. I do
enjoy looking at old pictures maybe its
because they make me feel young!
KERRY MOORE, HAYWARDS HEATH
Making tracks
The welcome news that Wedgwood will
present its redeveloped visitor experience
in 2015 gives an excellent opportunity
for London Midland TOC to stop trains
at Barlaston and Wedgwood again. We
have already had 14 years of bus-titution
and our most recent change sees a seven
minute train journey from Stoke taking 50
minutes on the bus. Not a good start for
our international visitors.
ROBERT MCMILLAN, STOKE ON TRENT
Wales watching
LUNDY
In the news
For more
of the latest
news, go to
discoverbritain
mag.com
ARCHAEOLOGY
STRIKING GOLD
Schoolboys unearth the
oldest metal object ever
to be found in the UK
EXHIBITION
Treasure trove
Staffordshire Hoard goes on display at new Birmingham gallery
Hundreds of Anglo-Saxon items from the Staffordshire Hoard, the
largest collection of Anglo-Saxon gold and silver metalwork ever
found, will now be on permanent display in a new dedicated gallery
at the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery from October.
Discovered in a field near the village of Hammerwich, near Lichfield
in Staffordshire, in 2009, the hoard is Britains largest recorded
treasure find, consisting of over 3,500 items, including 5.094 kilos of
gold, 1.442 kilos of silver and 3,500 cloisonn garnets.
Visitors to the new gallery will now be able to find out more about
the exquisite craftsmanship used to create the items in the hoard,
many of which are martial or warlike in character, but there are also
a number of unidentified objects, which continue to intrigue experts.
www.staffordshirehoard.org.uk
slug
News
IN BRIEF
MARITIME
All aboard
Full scale replica of the worlds rst iron-hulled boat ofcially
opened to the public in North Lanarkshire, Scotland
The Vulcan, a 19th-century boat that
revolutionised maritime design around the
world, has returned to its original home
on the Monkland Canal in the town of
Coatbridge, Scotland, as an innovative
heritage exhibit following the completion of
a 300,000 renovation programme.
After undergoing an extensive internal
refit, the vessel has taken up its new role
as an interactive educational exhibit at
Summerlee Museum of Scottish Industrial
Life, where a range of media and artefacts
help to celebrate the history of the canals,
DIVE RIGHT IN
Scotlands hidden marine landscapes and
their wildlife are now just a click away after
Scottish Natural Heritage launched online
virtual underwater dives created using
survey data, video footage, photography
and sound recordings. www.snh.gov.uk
VIEWS
Seeing is believing
THE WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER AND CORNWALL HAVE
ARCHAEOLOGY
QUIZ
AUCTION
Who am I?
FAMILY JEWELS
CONSERVATION
Divine intervention
Have your say in the 2014
English Heritage Angel Awards
PREHISTORIC ROCK CARVINGS ON THE
News
PHOTOGRAPHY
LANDMARK
Sea views
Shipwrecked Mariners photography competition winner revealed
1st
3rd
Soap dispenser
Coronation Street set turns
into popular visitor attraction
Fans of the television soap Coronation
Street are now able to take a tour of the
famous cobbles in central Manchester
ahead of plans to demolish the site
to make way for a new housing
development. The soap is now being
lmed in Trafford after over 30 years
of lming at the former 'Weathereld'
set, but English Heritage have deemed
the site as having insufcient historic or
architectural signicance to warrant a
listed status.
The set has already attracted
hundreds of thousands of visitors and
although it is currently due to close at the
beginning of October, this date may now
be extended to accommodate demand.
www.ticketmaster.co.uk/
coronationstreet
INTERVIEW
ALAMY; SIMON CRITCHLEY; CLEVELAND POOLS TRUST; DEVLIN PHOTO LTD; VISIT CORNWALL; ITV; JUSTIN MINNS; DAVE PEAKE; GARY COX
Justin Minns, a photographer from Suffolk, has won first prize in the
Shipwrecked Mariners coastal photo competition for his image of the
wreck of Steam Trawler Sheraton on Norfolk's Hunstanton Beach.
The winning image was judged by a panel of experts, including
Matt Havercroft, editor of Discover Britain; Kate Westaway, a marine
photographer and TV producer; and Commodore Malcolm Williams,
the charitys chief executive.
The runners up were Devon's Dave Peake with his photo taken half
underwater in Kingsand rock pool in Cornwall,
2nd
and Gary Cox from Gloucester with his photo of
Porthcawl Lighthouse in Bridgend, Wales.
www.shipwreckedmariners.org.uk
COMPETITION
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Reviews
Our View
EVERYMANS
CASTLE
PHILIPPA LEWIS, FRANCES
LINCOLN, HARDBACK,
20
RECOMMENDED
MUST SEE
EDITED BY JANE
MCMORLAND HUNTER,
NATIONAL TRUST BOOKS,
HARDBACK, 12.99
On the centenary
of the outbreak
of the First World
War, this beautiful
collection of poems
and illustrations, many
published here for
the first time, brings
together the words
of ordinary soldiers
who experienced the
battlefield, alongside
celebrated war poets
such as Wilfred Owen,
Rudyard Kipling,
AE Housman and
Siegfried Sassoon.
The National Trusts
involvement in the
collection stems from
its care of places
where these works
originated; the wars
aftermath being
the reason for the
charitys acquisition of
country houses. The
collection is sombre,
reflective and leaves
the reader in no doubt
of the devastation and
sacrifice of events.
www.anova
books.com
DVD
THE MARRIAGE
GAME
ALISON WEIR,
HUTCHINSON,
HARDBACK, 18.99
THE ENGLISH
COUNTRY HOUSE
GARDEN
GEORGE PLUMTRE,
FRANCES LINCOLN,
HARDBACK, 25
JESSICA FELLOWES,
HEADLINE, HARDBACK,
20
As a new season of
the TV series starts,
peek into the world of
Downton Abbey some
six years after the First
World War. Change
has come with new
faces in the kitchens,
grounds and even
at the dinner table.
Through the clutch of
survivors, life at the
big house starts anew.
www.headline.co.uk
THE COUNTRY
HOUSE AT WAR
SIMON GREAVES,
NATIONAL TRUST BOOKS,
HARDBACK, 20
Whats on
ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2014; BRINKHOFF MGENBURG; EDWIN SMITH/RIBA LIBRARY; VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON
Halloween
Gold
25 October
2 November
Hever Castle, Kent
7 November
22 February 2015
Buckingham Palace, London
Wedding Dresses
Until 15 March 2015
V&A, London
Events
18 October 5 November
Jerram Gallery, Dorset
Nocturnal Encounters
27 September 8 November
St Barbe Museum & Art Gallery, Lymington
Oceans
11 October 9 January 2015
Hestercombe Gallery, Somerset
This unique exhibition allows visitors to view
the worlds oceans and seas showcased in
365 glass bottles! This library of sea water
has been collected from around the world by
artist Tania Kovats, and forms the centrepiece
of this exhibition which looks at the way we
experience and explore different landscapes,
and the ways we interact with the sea.
Tel: 01823 413 923; www.hestercombe.com
Ghost Fest
1 October 30 November
Oxford Castle Unlocked, Oxford
Scare yourself silly at this years Ghost
Fest where all manner of spooky
delights will be taking place. Brave the
castle overnight to complete a ghost
hunt, enjoy a spooky tour followed by
a scrumptious dinner with the After
Dark Dinner packages, attend a Murder
Mystery evening and try to solve the
castles latest crime, or meet the ghosts
and ghouls behind prison cell doors
during the trick or treating nights!
Tel: 01865 260 666;
www.oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk
Silent Partners
27 September 14 December
Compton Verney, Warwickshire
TATE; RUTH CLARK; LENT BY THE AMERICAN FUND FOR THE TATE GALLERY, COURTESY OF THE LATIN AMERICAN ACQUISITIONS COMMITTEE 2010 FABIANA DE BARROS; MCPHERSONSTEVENS.COM; BRITISH MUSEUM
Cheltenham
Literature Festival
3-12 October
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
From Judi Dench and John Cleese to
Margaret Atwood and Nick Hornby,
Cheltenham hosts a range of author talks,
making it the place to be for bookworms
this October. With over 500 events
planned, covering history, sport, food and
fashion theres plenty to choose from,
whatever your interests. Tickets are sure to
sell out quickly, so book your place well in
advance on one of the many entertaining
talks or activities led by some of the
heavyweights of the literary world.
Fireworks Night
1 November
Blists Hill Victorian Town, Shropshire
View a spectacular family reworks
extravaganza at this Victorian town attraction
where visitors will be able to see the streets lit
by gaslight, just as they would have been in
the 19th century. The towns shops, cottages
and workshops will be open throughout the
evening for visitors to look around where
they can meet a variety of cheery costumed
characters before enjoying the main event,
when the sky will be illuminated by a fantastic
reworks display.
Tel: 01952 433 424; www.ironbridge.org.uk
Events
NORTH
Until 13 December
Hatton Gallery, Newcastle upon Tyne
The horrors endured by soldiers during the First World War and their
creative responses to the war are examined within this exhibition. Some of
the most important 20th-century British art and literature was created as
a result of the Great War, with writing and painting used in a therapeutic
capacity to help alleviate the suffering of shellshocked soldiers. The
exhibition includes the original draft of the poem Anthem for Doomed
Youth by Wilfred Owen, who was treated for shellshock at Craiglockhart.
Tel: 0191 208 6059; www.hattongallery.org.uk
Sssnakes Alive
Until 22 February 2015
World Museum, Liverpool
Come face to face with boa constrictors and royal pythons as you
discover the secret life of snakes. Find out how these incredible
creatures capture their prey, shed their skin and learn about the
important conservation work protecting them. View the skeleton
of a Burmese python and learn what life is like in countries where
encounters with deadly snakes are a daily occurrence.
Tel: 0151 478 4393; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk
Birds of Paradise:
Plumes & Feathers in Fashion
25 October 19 April 2015
The Bowes Museum, County Durham
Events
Fred A Farrell
Glasgows War Artist
Until 23 November
Peoples Palace, Glasgow
Commissioned by the
Corporation of Glasgow to create
50 drawings that would capture
the life of the Scottish regiments
on the Western Front and those
working in the armament
factories at home, the work of
First World War artist, Fred A
Farrell, will now be on display at
the Peoples Palace. The stirring images include depictions of workers
forging guns and building submarines and tanks, as well as haunting
battleeld scenes and images of life in the trenches.
Tel: 0141 287 4350; www.glasgowlife.org.uk
Snowdonia Walking
Festival
25-26 October
Betws-y-Coed, North Wales
Stamp the mud off your walking boots and
take part in a range of guided treks with
local experts who will lead you around the
forests, lakes and mountains that make
up the spectacular landscape of Wales.
Whether you want to do a three-mile stroll
or spend the day hiking up mountains,
theres something for all tness levels. One
walk in Betws village is suitable for those
with disabilities. All walks suitable for
visually impaired with accompanying guide.
Wales Rally GB
13-16 November
Conwy, North Wales
The nal round of the FIA World Rally
Championship will see world-class racing in
North Wales. From the ceremonial start at Eirias
Park Stadium to the nish line on Mostyn Street
in Llandudno, spectators can indulge their need
for speed as they watch competitors navigate
their way along the route. If that wasnt enough
there will also be family-friendly RallyFest
events to enjoy at Chirk Castle and Kinmel Park,
complete with live coverage, and historic rally
cars on display.
Tel: 0844 499 9999; www.walesrallygb.com
ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2014; CROWN COPYRIGHT (2014) VISIT WALES
The Intern
Water works
HELEN OCHYRA is on a mission to nd Britains best job. This month
we sent her to try a day in the life of Falmouths harbour master
FAST FACTS
Contact: For more
information on the
Falmouth Harbour
Commission see www.
falmouthport.co.uk. For
more on Falmouth visit
www.visitcornwall.com.
HELEN OCHYRA
The forgotten
Sandwiched between the Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland National
Parks, the Durham Dales is a natural haven unscathed by the regions
industrial past, where you can nd a wealth of spectacular (and
unexpected) historic attractions
WORDS NICK MORRISON
28 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com
A
Durham Dales
to find down a quiet country lane in the middle of NorthEast England. But there, nestling on a road leading out of the
market town of Barnard Castle, is a building with a royal
connection that is home to one of the countrys most intriguing
museums, and a nationally-renowned art collection.
Loire Valley than a hop and a skip from the Tees and
it is true it has not always been universally admired:
the famed architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner, for
example, described it as incongruous and gloriously
inappropriate for its setting.
But whatever its architectural merits, there is no
doubting the importance of the collection housed within
its walls. Seemingly eclectic, it is in fact linked by a
common thread: the passion for European fine and
decorative arts from the 14th to 19th centuries on the
part of its original patrons, John and Josephine Bowes.
Sadly, both John and Josephine were to die before
the museum opened, but by then they had amassed an
astonishing 15,000 objects, bought over a prolific 12year period visiting the exhibitions, auction houses and
private dealers of continental Europe.
Although added to since, at its core the collection
bears the hallmarks of Josephines own passions.
Landscape painting was a particular love, but it did not
stop there, according to Howard Coutts, the museums
keeper of ceramics.
She was clearly very keen on ceramics and bought
about 5,000 examples, all of good quality, and she seems
to have known what she was buying, he says. But
her taste was hugely wide-ranging, including textiles,
metalwork, furniture and paintings. She had grand
ambitions and there was nothing she didnt dip into.
Dr Coutts has his own theory about the genesis of the
museum. We have lots of marble figures of sleeping
children and that maybe meant something to Josephine
personally, he says. In the absence of being able to
have children, perhaps the museum and the objects were
her children.
The most internationally significant part of the
collection is undoubtedly the paintings, featuring
works by Goya, El Greco and
Canaletto, among others. A
Left: Barnard Castle
previously unknown portrait by
town is renowned for its
Anthony van Dyck, previously
antique shops, and its
thought to be a copy and
eponymous castle ruin
Durham Dales
said to have based the character of Wackford Squeers, tyrannical
headmaster of Dotheboys Hall in Nicholas Nickleby, on William
Shaw, of Shaws Academy in Bowes.
Although fear of libel meant Dickens always denied the
connection, Shaw had been prosecuted after eight boys in his care
had gone blind through neglect and insanitary conditions. As well as
sharing initials and profession, the two both wore eye patches.
Following Nicholas Nicklebys publication, the academy was
forced to close and Shaw was disgraced. The school has now been
converted into flats, and in acknowledgement of the connection has
been renamed Dotheboys Hall.
Upstream from Barnard Castle lies the mighty High Force
waterfall, where the River Tees comes crashing over a sheer drop to
plunge 21 metres into a pool, a scene sketched by Turner in 1816.
A well-maintained path takes visitors the third of a mile from a car
park by the roadside to the waterfall.
The Dales, comprising Teesdale and Weardale, are sparsely
Durham Dales
A testament to its
designer's Catholic
faith, Rushton
Triangular Lodge in
Northamptonshire
is symbolic of the
Holy Trinity
WONDERS
Forget Britain's grand castles and stately homes as we put a selection of our
smallest heritage sites in the spotlight. What they lack in size and presence,
they more than make up for in history and intrigue. Here's 10 of the best...
WORDS FAITH ECKERSALL
CLOUDS HILL
military life. There are just the four rooms but what
Clouds Hill lacks in size it makes up for in character;
each space reveals another facet of Lawrences
mysterious persona. The downstairs library contains
his books, photos and his self-designed reading chair;
opposite is the primitive and lavatory-less bathroom.
Creaking stairs transport the visitor under the eaves to
the music room, with its portraits and busts and from
where his favourite classical pieces trickle through
into the aluminium-lined bunk room, where overnight
guests included the novelist EM Forster and playwright
George Bernard Shaw. Outside in the former garage is a
fascinating exhibition about Lawrences life. But even for
visitors and volunteer staff, there is still no loo!
Tel: 01929 405 616; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/clouds-hill
A LA RONDE
Little Britain
of San Vitale at Ravenna but its not difficult to see how
else their European sojourn had affected its design. A la
Ronde may look like the whimsy of two eccentrics but
the Parminter cousins were no fools. Their house was
designed to make the most of every scrap of daylight,
enabling them to follow the sun forever, round and
round their home.
Tel: 01395 265 514; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/a-la-ronde
THE HOMEWOOD
THE BIRMINGHAM
BACK-TO-BACKS
WORKING-CLASS DWELLINGS
RUSHTON TRIANGULAR
LODGE
ELIZABETHAN FOLLY
Sir Thomas Tresham didnt let a little thing like a 15year prison sentence for being a Catholic and the
subsequent conviction of his son as a Gunpowder Plotter
to confound him. On his release in 1593 the doughty
knight designed a folly to proclaim his faith with every
brick. Rushton has three sides, each wall is 33ft long,
with three triangular windows and three gargoyles,
topped off with three triangular obelisks. Three floors,
three Latin texts (each with 33 letters) run around the
structure while dates carved on the building could refer
to significant times in Treshams life. Its been pointed
out they are also divisible by three and that when one
is subtracted from the other they give the ages at which
Jesus and the Virgin Mary were supposed to have died.
As a 3D puzzle, Treshams folly is hard to beat.
Tel: 01536 710 761; www.english-heritage.org.uk
38 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com
Little Britain
TY MAWR WYBRNANT
CHILDHOOD HOME OF THE MAN WHO
TRANSLATED THE BIBLE INTO WELSH
MENDIPS AND
20 FORTHLIN ROAD
ALAMY; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/DAVID GARNER, DENNIS GILBERT, STUART COX, ARNHEL DE SERRA, GEOFFREY FROSH; ENGLISH HERITAGE; JIM HOLDEN
SANDHAM
MEMORIAL CHAPEL
10
GEORGE
STEPHENSON'S
BIRTHPLACE
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
ALAMY
Cost: AngloWelsh
Narrowboat Holidays
has a selection of
boats available for rst
time holiday-makers
as well as seasoned
regulars. Weekly
breaks start from 660
to 1,975 per week. Tel:
0117 304 1122; www.
anglowelsh.co.uk
Contact: www.
canalrivertrust.org.uk
Blackpool Tower,
1929, captured by the
daredevil Aerolms crew
Opposite: Trafc chaos
of motorised and
horsedrawn vehicles on
Tower Bridge, 1929
44 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com
ykss
limit
The
the
I
Aerofilms
Right: A snapshot of
Aerolms cofounder
Claude Friese-Greene
with his lm camera,
July 1919
TR AY
ENOND DAY PM
EE N M TUR 5:00
FR PE SA TO
O
TO AM
30
9:
Aerofilms
Aerofilms
technological innovations of the time, with Francis Wills,
who remained managing director of the company until
1958, ensuring it was one of the market leaders in the
making of maps using aerial photography.
One of the prime exhibits in the exhibition at the RAF
Museum, alongside early hand-held cameras, is an A5
Stereo Autograph, an immense and revolutionary piece
of equipment, sourced by Wills on a trip to Switzerland
in 1938. Its magnification and measurement accuracy
of images taken by Aerofilms photographers meant that
their output was once again utilised by the Air Ministry
for intelligence purposes during the Second World War.
Aerofilms never lost its interest in the future, from
the Art Deco Hoover factory, gleaming sleekly on the
outskirts of London in the early 1930s, to the estates
of box-like houses and the belching pylons of the
nationalised industries of the post-war period.
Ultimately, though, as a commercial concern, it was
always on the lookout for the picturesque postcard-type
image, and it is these to which the eye after all this time
is inevitably drawn. The images of Buckingham Palace,
Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Tower Bridge and
St Pauls Cathedral helped shape the image that British
tourism still projects today. Those of a more Arcadian
nature, as the authors of Aerofilms: A History of Britain
From Above describe it, reflect a land which seems
OT EVERYONE ENTHUSIASTICALLY
CITY LIGHTS
Londons old nancial district, nicknamed the Square Mile,
MANSION HOUSE
GUILDHALL
COMPLEX
A
THE BANK OPENED
ON 30 JULY 1694
WITH 19 STAFF IN
A RENTED PART OF
MERCERS HALL
ST STEPHENS
WALBROOK
WALK AROUND
THE LANES
In the heart of the
old nancial district
are the Lombard
ROYAL EXCHANGE
PLANNING
YOUR VISIT
Getting there: Bank
Underground station
(on the Central, DLR,
Northern and Waterloo
& City lines) is a veminute walk away.
Where to stay:
Threadneedles Hotel
is in the fomer head
ofces of the Midland
Bank, a couple of
minutes walk from
the Bank. Tel: 020
7657 8080. www.
hotelthread
needles.co.uk
Where to eat: The
restaurant, 1 Lombard
Street, is in a listed
former bank building.
There is a brasserie
and 1776 dining
room with a la carte
European dishes.
Open weekdays 7.309.30am, 11am-11pm.
Tel: 020 7929 6611.
www.1lombard
street.com
Dont miss: Testing
your strength by trying
to lift a solid gold bar.
More information:
Bank of England
Museum, entrance in
Bartholomew Lane,
EC2R 8AH. Open
weekdays 10am-5pm
(last entry 4.45pm).
Free entry. Tel: 020
7601 5545. www.
bankofengland.co.uk/
museum
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BEACON OF HOPE
On the 500th anniversary of Trinity House, the organisation that was established to
protect mariners and ensure safe shipping in UK waters, its the ideal time to discover
the unique history of the iconic lighthouses it continues to safeguard
WORDS JO CAIRD
Trinity Lighthouses
operates in Scotland.
Nine of Trinity Houses own lighthouses are open
to the public, with a further handful boasting cosy
holiday cottages with arguably the best coastal views in
the country. One, Nash Point, in South Wales, is even
registered for weddings.
Visitor centres and cottages have usually been
converted from keepers houses. Life on what are known
as shore stations was quite comfortable for keepers and
their families. Each keeper every station had three, a
principal keeper and two assistants had his own flat or
cottage, and Trinity House would pay for taxis for the
school run, weekly shop and other essential errands.
Louise Medlicott recalls living with her lighthouse
keeper husband Gordon and their two small children at
Hartland Point Lighthouse in North Devon in the 1970s.
Trinity House looked after you well, she says, but it
was isolated for the children. After four years living in
a flat with a light on top, as the children called it, the
family moved into town and Gordon spent the rest of
his career working mainly off-shore, one month on, one
month off, as was standard practice by that time.
Hartland Point isnt open to the public but you can get
a sense of what life was like in this unusual environment
with a visit to South Stack Lighthouse on Anglesey,
North Wales. Reached by walking down 400 steps cut
Trinity Lighthouses
LIGHTHOUSE HEROES
Discover the story of the dramatic rescue made by Grace Darling
and her lighthouse keeper father at Longstone Lighthouse
In 1838, the steamship Forfarshire
went down in a storm in the Farne
Islands off the coast of
Northumberland. Most of the
passengers and crew perished with
the ship, but a few survivors were
washed onto the low rocky island that
had sunk the craft. Spotting them from
their lighthouse home, 22-year-old
Grace Darling and her keeper father
risked their lives by rowing to the
rescue in conditions considered too
rough for the lifeboat to put out from
the mainland. Grace was
immortalised in an 1843 poem by
William Wordsworth and both father
and daughter received the Royal
Humane Society Award for their
actions that night. Longstone
Lighthouse, where they sheltered the
nine survivors for two days until the
storm subsided, is today open as a
62 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com
PLACES TO STAY
in Britain
DIVORCED, BEHEADED, DIED.
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LIVE LIKE A QUEEN, WITHOUT PAYING THE PRICE.
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ESSENTIAL
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
PLAN YOUR VISIT WITH OUR COMPREHENSIVE COUNTY GUIDE
68
Why Cambridgeshire?
With historic attractions and
beautiful countryside at every turn,
whats not to love, asks Vicky Sartain
70
Essential experiences:
The top 15 things to do across
the county, from punting on the
River Cam and visiting the home of
horseracing, to ying at IWM Duxford
82
83
76
ALAMY
Cathedral tour:
Scale the heights
of Ely Cathedral
during a guided
tower tour
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
COUNTY OF CONTRASTS
he sprawling county of
Cambridgeshire covers a
wide area, not just in terms
of geography but in variety
of attractions. If you want mountains
youre in the wrong place, but if you love
big skies, glorious sunrises and miles of
windmill-dotted countryside youre in
the right place. Then there are the quaint
towns and villages and the surprise
nds such as Ely Cathedral, a medieval
pilgrimage site, dubbed the ship of the
Fens owing to its vast size and shape.
The local heritage has been beautifully
preserved across the county; the First
and Second World War legacy can be
explored at IWM Duxford, a military
museum in the south of the county.
Further north at Coton is the American
Cemetery & Memorial, the only US
Second World War graveyard in Britain.
Country estates, churches, priories,
68 AUGUST//SEPTEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com
TRAVEL
TIP
ALAMY
Hire a punt
and travel
at your own
pace
[NATURE]
[ STATELY
HOME ]
Experience Quaker
life at Peckover
House, Wisbech
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
[ ACTIVE ]
TRAVEL
TIP
Umbrellas are
provided in
Scudamores
punts!
canal cargo
UK & Continental maps, guides, boating and canal
books, fiction and non-fiction, Canal Boat, Waterways
World, Canal and Rivers Magazines, DVDs, Muddy
Waters books, jigsaws, gifts, Bert and Betty books,
cross-stitch tapestry, models and chandlery.
Call 020 8399 0486
or buy online at
www.canalcargo.co.uk
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
[ MUSEUM ]
EXPLORE THE
IMPERIAL WAR
MUSEUM DUXFORD
[ STATELY
ALAMY; ELGOODS
HOME ]
Go Georgian at
Wimpole Estate
[ VINEYARD ]
DONT MISS
Avid aviators can
book a sightseeing
ight on a pre-war
Dragon Rapide, an
eight-seater biplane,
soaring over Duxford,
Cambridge, Ely,
Newmarket or London.
Call 01255 473 832
or visit www.classicwings.co.uk
[ FOOD ]
Discover the
origin of Stilton
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
[CATHEDRAL]
10
Take a tour of this grand cathedral to discover how it became a medieval pilgrimage site, nd
out why it is known as the Ship of the Fens and see the treasures in its Stained Glass Museum
TRAVEL
TIP
ALAMY
Follow the
Eel Trail to
discover Elys
highlights
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
11
T
HOME ]
[ ICON ]
12
[ STATELY
[ HOUSE
MUSEUM ]
WWW.VISITELY.ORG.UK
13
P
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
TRAVEL
TIP
Wear sturdy
shoes on a
Gallops or
Stud tour
Clockwise: Getting
some fresh air and
exercise out on the
Gallops; hopeful
champions at the
National Stud; visit a
racing yard on a tour
[ SPORT ]
14
15
[ MUSEUM ]
ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
FACT FILE
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel du Vin
Cambridge
From 175 per night
This Grade II-listed building is
home to 41 timelessly styled
bedrooms and stunning suites;
most include the Hotel du Vins
signature roll-top tubs.
Tel: 0844 736 4253
www.hotelduvin.com
Prospero Homes
Cambridge
From 80 per night
If you prefer self-catering,
look no further than these wellappointed, well-located studio
or two-room ats in the city.
Tel: 01223 651 099
www.prosperohomes.co.uk
Poets House
Ely
From 115 per night
This Grade II-listed property on
St Marys Street in the town
centre is renowned for hospitality
and charm. Views extend to the
great cathedral or over the
hotels beautiful gardens.
Tel: 01353 887 777
www.poetshouse.com
Paddocks House
Near Newmarket
From 129 per night
The former country home of
Lord Byrons sister, this elegant
and tranquil accommodation
offers the perfect luxury escape.
Tel: 01638 593 222
www.paddockshouse.com
WHERE TO EAT
St Johns Chophouse
Cambridge
The food is British, seasonal and
no nonsense in this popular,
family-friendly environment.
Tel: 01223 353 110
www.cambscuisine.com
The Cutter Inn
Ely
This riverside restaurant,
wonderfully situated by the
Great River Ouse, serves quality
traditional British pub food in
stylish surroundings.
Tel: 01353 662 713
www.thecutterinn.co.uk
LOCAL INSIGHT
SUGGESTED ITINERARY
Stilton village
Octavia Hills
Birthplace,
Peckover House,
Elgoods - Wisbech
Ely Cathedral and
Oliver Cromwells
House, both in Ely
DAY 2
Wicken Fen
Nature Reserve
Wisbech
Anglesey Abbey,
Newmarkets
National
Horseracing
Museum and Stud
Stilton
Ely
Wicken Fen
Nature Reserve
Anglesey
Abbey
Cambridge
WHEN TO GO
MORE INFORMATION
DAY 1
Newmarket
Wimpole
DAY 3
Wimpole Estate
IWM Duxford
Chilford Hall
vineyard
Cambridge
IWM Duxford
Chilford Hall
vineyard
GETTING THERE
COMPETITION
Win
Enjoy a two-night stay for two people, on a bed and breakfast basis, at the
luxury boutique Hotel du Vin in Cambridge.
BY POST: Send your answer and contact details to Hotel du Vin Cambridge Competition,
Discover Britain magazine, Johnson Dellow Ltd, 59-61 High Street, Kings Langley WD4 9HU.
BY EMAIL: Send your answer and contact details to archant@johnsondellow.com with
Discover Britain Hotel du Vin Cambridge Competition in the subject line. Please also
indicate if you prefer not to receive product information.
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 3 November 2014. The prize includes a two-night
stay for two people on a B&B basis. All transport and additional costs are payable by the winner. The
prize is valid for 12 months. Excludes Bank Holidays, Easter, Christmas, and New Year. Booking subject to
availability. No cash alternative. Employees (and relatives) of Archant, Hotel du Vin and associated suppliers
are not eligible to enter. Winners names may be published.
HOW TO ENTER
B Victorian
C Medieval
NAME .................................................................................................................
ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
............................................................................................................................
................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
EMAIL .................................................................................................................
I have a subscription
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WHERE TO GO
WILD
IN BRITAIN
NHPA/PHOTOSHOT
British Wildlife
From left: Islay is home
to thousands of visiting
barnacle and whitefronted geese; buzzard
JANUARY
HEBRIDEAN
HIGHLIGHT
Islay, Argyll and Bute, Scotland
e
th
FEBRUARY
WILD
EXMOOR
Exmoor National Park,
Devon/Somerset
ALAMY
Winter or summer,
the Exmoor pony is
perfectly adapted
to its surroundings
British Wildlife
MARCH
BOXING
HARES
Lyme Park, Disley, Stockport,
Cheshire
PHOTOSHOT; ALAMY
tG
e
tin
g By road the
entrance is on the A6, 10.5km
(7 miles) southeast of Stockport
and 9.3km (12 miles) northwest
of Buxton. The house and car
park is 1.6km (1 mile) from the
entrance. By train, Disley is
0.8km (0.5 miles) from the park
entrance. The TrentBarton No 199
Buxton to Manchester Airport bus
stops at the park entrance.
Access and facilities: Theres
a licensed restaurant and
caf in The Timber Yard and
a refreshment kiosk in the
main car park. There are fullaccess toilets throughout the
site and wheelchair access to
the buildings and parts of the
grounds, but there are steep
slopes and uneven ground.
Opening times: The park is open
all year round; the house and
gardens are open February to
October from 11am
Contact: Lyme Park, Disley,
Cheshire, SK12 2NR. Tel: 01663
762 023; lymepark@national
trust.org.uk
e
th
British Wildlife
From left: Symonds Yat
Rock; the magnicent
peregrine falcon
APRIL
PHOTOSHOT
VIBRANT
VALLEY LIFE
MAY
THE WILD
PENINSULA
Gower Peninsula, Swansea,
South Wales
ALAMY
British Wildlife
JUNE
HISTORIC
WOODLANDS
ALAMY; PHOTOSHOT
British Wildlife
From left: Golden eagles
patrol the national park;
the eagles breed in the
more remote areas
JULY
ALAMY
UP AMONG
THE CLOUDS
AUGUST
British Wildlife
SEAL-SPOTTING
PARADISE
Blakeney Point, Blakeney,
North Norfolk
ALAMY
Blakeney, or by making the energetic 5km(3 mile-) trek west from Cley-next-the-sea.
In the past, common seals predominated
on the Point, but things are changing: it
has now been more or less abandoned for
pupping and grey seals are on the increase.
These two facts may not be unrelated as
grey seals tend to pack very tightly and
could eventually displace the smaller
common seals.
The Point also hosts important breeding
colonies of water birds, especially terns.
Sandwich, common, little, and a few Arctic
terns wheel screechily around, plunge-diving
and feeding their raucous chicks. Locally
breeding ringed plovers and oystercatchers
congregate at high tide, mingling with the
returning Arctic waders, whose numbers
increase daily at this time of year.
If you go ashore, look out for the fading
flowers of the shingle plants: yellow horned
poppy, sea campion, and biting stonecrop. On
the adjacent saltmarshes, look for the dense
thickets of shrubby sea-blite and several
species of sea-lavender, including the rare
matted sea-lavender.
British Wildlife
From left: Flowering
heather casts a purple
haze; merlins hunt for
pipits and skylarks
HIGH ON THE
HEATHER
North York Moors National Park,
Yorkshire, England
PHOTOSHOT; ALAMY
SEPTMEBER
VISIT THE
UKS ONLY
CROCODILE ZOO!
Crocodiles of the World is an experience unlike
any other. Nowhere else but here will you have
the opportunity to see such a wide collection
of crocodiles, alligators and caimans - over 100
individuals representing more than 14 species.
You will be captivated from the moment you arrive.
Theres a whole world of crocodiles out there just
waiting for you to discover it!
100+ crocodiles, alligators and caimans
Rare endangered species and hatchlings
Feeding displays VIP/Keeper experiences
Underwater viewing Outdoor picnic area
Birthday parties Group and school visits
www.crocodilesoftheworld.co.uk
British Wildlife
From left: Autumn
brings large ocks
of geese ying in
formation; the tranquil
beauty of loch Leven
OCTOBER
ALAMY; PHOTOSHOT
AUTUMN BY
THE LOCH
NOVEMBER
RUTTING
RED DEER
Richmond Park, Richmond upon
Thames, Surrey
PHOTOSHOT
British Wildlife
WE
T
IN
R
WONDERLAND
Isle of Man, Irish Sea
DECEMBER
From left: Hen harriers
roost at Close Sarteld
Nature Reserve; Manx
wild wallaby
PHOTOSHOT
BRITAINS
MOST WANTED
Join the search for some of our most iconic and elusive wildlife
with our at-a-glance guide by James Lowen
PINE MARTEN MARTES MARTES
This relative of the stoat is active
between dusk and dawn. Britains
population may be as few as 4,000,
with 95 percent of these in Scotland.
Top location: on the veranda at Glen
Loy Lodge in Highland, most evenings
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE
HALIAEETUS ALBICILLA
In the 40 years since Europes
largest eagle was first reintroduced
to the Hebridean island of Rum,
some 40 pairs of these flying
barn-doors breed in north-west
Scotland, mainly the Western Isles.
Top location: boat trips from
Portree on Skye offer your best
chance to see them in flight
SWALLOWTAIL
PAPILIO MACHAON
Britains most exotic-looking
butterfly is apart from the hint of
a new colony in Dorset confined
to East Anglias Broadland.
ALAMY
RED SQUIRREL
SCIURUS VULGARIS
Loss of its woodland habitat,
competition with the nonnative grey squirrel and disease
means that outside Scotland
it is now much harder to spot
the iconic leader of the Tufty
Club than it was 60 years ago.
The Roundhouse
Bodrifty Farm, Cornwall
Sleeps 2
From 120 per night
In a clearing among the trees sits this replica
Iron Age roundhouse, t for a Celtic chief.
Based on a roundhouse found at the Bodrifty
Iron Age Settlement just three elds away,
guests are truly able to escape the trappings
of modern life and swap stories around the
ickering rebowl in the evenings.
Tel: 01736 366 796; www.bodriftyfarm.
co.uk/the-roundhouse.html
Solent Forts
Off the coast of Portsmouth
31 bedrooms across two forts
From 700 per night
Leave the mainland for a unique stay in a
decommissioned Victorian sea fort, since
transformed into a luxury hotel. The ninebedroom Spitbank Fort will be joined by the
22-bedroom No Mans Land Fort this autumn.
Tel: 0330 333 7222;
www.amazingvenues.co.uk
GETAWAY
Malmaison
ETA
G
Oxford
95 rooms
From 99 per night
Not many people would relish a night in the
cells, unless of course they happened to look
like the rooms of Malmaison Oxford, a chic
hotel that occupies the citys former gaol. The
formidable entrance leads through to stylish
rooms with touches that hark back to the
buildings former use, including heavy-duty
bolts on the cell doors of the bedrooms
and sections of bare brick walls cleverly
incorporated into the interior design. Far from
the offerings of a prison canteen, guests can
enjoy dining in style at the hotels brasserie.
GETAWAY
Livingstone Lodge
Port Lympne Wild Animal Park, Kent
10 safari tents
From 140 per person per night
GETAWAY
Y
A
W
GETAWAY
Yellow Submarine
Albert Docks, Liverpool
Sleeps 8
From 199 per night
While we may not all be living in a yellow
submarine, as The Beatles once boasted, we
can at least book a stay in one for a few nights.
Located in the city famous for its connections
with the Fab Four, this converted barge with
its psychedelic interiors, gold discs from The
Beatles and the mod scooter from the lm
Quadrophenia, provides a quirky city stopover.
Found within the citys bustling Albert Docks,
there are plenty of restaurants just minutes
away, while the citys sites are within easy reach.
Book a stay here and youll be whistling The
Beatles tunes for weeks!
Tel: 07885 295 413;
www.yellowsubliverpool.co.uk
GETAWAY
ADVERTORIAL
DISCOVER THE
BEST OF BRITAIN
Are you planning a holiday in the British Isles? Then start
your search with these hotels, B&Bs and holiday-lets in
beautiful surroundings for a relaxing autumn break
Relaxed yet decadent, Penventon Park Hotel really is the place to be spoilt,
providing a luxury experience and a chance to get away and discover the
pleasures of Cornwall. Enjoy pure Cornish hospitality at its best with a cream
tea on arrival, three course table dhte dinner, pre dinner cocktails plus
a 10 spa voucher to be redeemed against a face or body treatment of 60
minutes or more. From 139 per couple.
Tel: 01209 203 000; www.penventon.co.uk
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ADVERTORIAL
ADVERTORIAL
SEASON OF GIVING
Incredilble touch and feel you wont realise youre wearing them!
Unrivalled grip in dry, wet or humid conditions
The perfect t available in 14 sizes
A choice of 6 colours, two styles and two cu lengths
Durablility machine washable and longlasting
Tel: 0845 6039075; www.macwet.com
Discover your family story with award-winning Journals of a Lifetime. Each beautifully
made guided memory book contains around 60 fun and inspiring questions carefully
designed to inspire your family to enjoy telling their story this Christmas - the perfect
gift for every loved-one, available for all the family. You may also create your own
unique Personalised Journal at www.fromyoutome.com
Tel: 01225 866225; www.fromyoutome.com
The team at PH Coate & Son are specialist Willow craftsmen with over 180 years
experience between them. We would like to present the perfect gift for friends or
family this Christmas. A strong, attractive, bottle carrier ideal for practical use and yet
elegant enough for display. Available in 4 or 6 bottle versions. Price: from 33.30
Tel: 01823 490249 (Mon-Fri 9-5); www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk
Treat your feet to a gorgeous pair of Perillas ulta thick alpaca walking socks - you will
feel like you are walking on a cloud! Alpaca naturally repels odour and bacteria, so
socks can be worn for a week without the need to wash. Choose from a range of 10
fabulous colours. Only 18.00.
Tel: 01886 853 615; www.perilla.co.uk
The perfect headwear for the festive and winter periods. The hats are a wool/acrylic
mix, eece lined and handmade. There are 26 fabulous styles in 10 dierent colours
to choose from making them a perfect gift for friends and family alike.
RRP 24.99.
Tel: 01494 431431; www.foxsoutdoor.co.uk
ADVERTORIAL
2
3
4
7
5
6
ADVENTURER AVIATOR
SUNGLASSES
From 220, Silhouette
www.silhouette.com
Where would an adventurer be without
a snazzy pair of shades? Silhouettes
Adventurer Aviator sunglasses are light
and strong (as well as stylish!) making
them ideal for your travels.
ENGLISH WILLOW
PICNIC BASKET
54.15, English Willow Baskets
Tel: 01823 490 249
www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk
Hand woven with willow cultivated on
the Somerset Levels, years of willow
growing and weaving experience is
drawn upon to produce baskets that will
be treasured for generations to come.
Classifieds
AC C O M M O DAT I O N
L O N D O N AC C O M M O DAT I O N
PUBLISHERS
42 - 55
34 - 41
28 - 40
58 - 72
44 - 65
38 - 48
MISCELLANEOUS
C A R R E N TA L
TO U R S
Parkers
Rent a Car
A Family Business
FRANCE
IMAGING
INTEREST
REGIONAL
SHOOTING
Parkers
12 Bridge Road, Haywards Heath,
West Sussex RH16 1VA
Tel: 01444-413672
Fax: 01444-417961
Email: hire@parkers-group.co.uk
www.parkers-group.co.uk
To advertise contact Dan Martin: 01242 264781; daniel.martin@archant.co.uk
Calls from North America: dial the country code 01144 and drop the first 0 in the UK number
Crossword
Challenge your knowledge of Britains history, legends and people with our puzzle page
ACROSS
1 Fair, novel by William Makepeace Thackeray (6)
5 Hampshire village where the author Charles Kingsley was buried
in 1875 (8)
9 Renowned Neolithic chambered cairn and passage grave in
Orkney (4,4)
10 Game bird found on Scottish hills and moors (6)
11 Cambridgeshire village where the Edwardian poet Rupert Brooke
lived in the Old Vicarage (12)
14 Seabird with long pointed wings and a forked tail (4)
15 Followers of the 14th-century religious reformer John Wyclif (8)
18 Central character in Shakespeares The Tempest (8)
19 Heraldic beast (4)
21 A devoted old married couple (5,3,4)
24 Matthew , poet whose works include Dover Beach (6)
25 Moss, RSPB reserve near Morecambe Bay (8)
26 A meeting for competition between horse-riders (8)
27 Estuary with a famous suspension bridge opened in 1981 (6)
DOWN
Think youve got all the answers? Well reveal the solutions to
this crossword in issue 185 (April/May 2015), on sale 18 March 2015
Solution to crossword in issue 179 (April/May 2014):
Across: 1 Baronet, 5 Staffa, 8 Acton Bell, 9 Goole, 11 Lundy,
12 Scots pine, 13 Ashley, 15 Wimsey, 18 Autumn, 20 Joseph,
24 Goldsmith, 25 Forth, 26 Thyme, 27 Beefeater, 28 Loddon,
29 Scrooge
Down: 1 Beagle, 2 Rotunda, 3 Nancy, 4 The Ashes, 5 Silsoe,
6 Augustine, 7 Florins, 10 Evelyn, 14 Hampstead, 16 Margot,
17 Loch Ness, 19 Tally-ho, 21 Horatio, 22 Gibbon, 23 Wharfe,
25 Fleur
ALAMY
ANSWERS: 1.SMALL CLOUD MISSING 2.STAIRPOST MISSING 3.MISSING INFORMATION BOARD 4. RUIN WINDOW MISSING 5. HOUSES IN THE BACKGROUND MISSING
ANSWER TO WHO AM I? QUIZ ON PAGE 13: BARNES WALLIS
Creative Spaces
Wordsworths House
Location: Rydal Mount, Ambleside, Cumbria
Owned by: William Wordsworth (7 April 1770 23 April 1850)
he Cumbrian-born Romantic
poet resided at this fellside
address, between Grasmere and
Ambleside, from the age of 43.
It was to be his last residence following a
string of homes, notably his birthplace and
childhood home in Cockermouth (now run
by the National Trust), and the diminutive
Dove Cottage (Wordsworth Trust) in
Grasmere. Rydal Mount is today owned by
a direct descendant of the poet.
Wordsworths poetry was inspired by his
love of the natural world. In 1813 when he
and his extended family moved to Rydal
Mount, he had at last found a family home
which afforded him peace to revise earlier
works, such as Daffodils, and create new
poems, including To a Snowdrop and The
Longest Day. The latter was written about