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WIN

A LUXUR
Y BR
FOR TWO EAK
TO
LONDON

OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 ISSUE 182 4.50

Durham Dales
We reveal the secrets of this natural
haven between the Yorkshire Dales
and Northumberland National Parks

Wildlife
wonders
Take a walk on the wild side
with our month-by-month guide
to Britains natural spectacles

Leading lights

The call of
Cambridge

Discover our iconic lighthouses


on the 500th anniversary of
the charity that cares for them

Little Britain
We put the spotlight on the small
buildings that have history to rival
that of our grand stately homes

Explore Cambridgeshire with our special county


guide, featuring the top 15 experiences to enjoy
across its famous university city and beyond

discoverbritainmag.com

Plus Wordsworths House | Bank of England Museum | Kennet & Avon Canal cruise | Aerofilms Collection

www.foxsoutdoor.co.uk
Amersham Bucks 01494 431431

n
tco en
ts

OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014

Features

28
36
44

Durham Dales
Nick Morrison discovers the built
and natural wonders to be found
within the landscape of the often
overlooked Durham Dales

Small wonders
Faith Eckersall offers her selection
of Britains small historic buildings,
which are just as compelling as
our grand stately homes

The Aerofilms Collection


Captured by a pioneering airman,
this collection of aerial images
provides a unique record of Britain
during the 20th century

PAGE

36

52

Bank of England Museum

58

Britains lighthouses

85

Anthony Lambert explores the


story of the institution that
has presided over the national
finances since the 17th century

Jo Caird traces the 500-year


history of Trinity House, the charity
responsible for safeguarding our
historic lighthouses

28

Wild Britain
We reveal where and when to
discover the best of Britains
wildlife with our month-by-month
guide to our natural spectacles

68
42

52

26

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 3

PAGE

70

Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road,


Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB
Tel: 01242 211 077; Fax: 01242 216 094
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EDITORIAL
Editor Matthew Havercroft
Deputy Editor Vicky Sartain
Staff Writer Angharad Moran
Art Editor Jeremy Bird
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Printing William Gibbons Ltd

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PAGE

114

42

CUSTOMER SERVICES
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Essential Cambridgeshire Regulars

70

82

83

Why Cambridgeshire?
With its beautiful fens, historic university
city, museums, windmills and wildlife,
Cambridgeshire has plenty to offer curious
visitors, says Vicky Sartain

Essential experiences
Our selection of the top 15 things to see
and do, from punting on the River Cam,
to visiting Britains oldest nature reserve
and scaling the heights of Ely Cathedral

17

Reviews

26

The Intern

42

Britains great journeys

Competition
Win a luxury two-night break for two
at the Hotel du Vin, Cambridge in the
heart of the beautiful city

4 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

Helen Ochyra travels to Falmouth to try


a day in the life of its harbour master
Take a cruise along the Kennet & Avon
Canal, from Bath to Devizes

114 Creative spaces

Rydal Mount, William Wordsworths


last home, Cumbria

Fact file
Everything you need to know to
plan your trip to Cambridgeshire,
including where to stay, where to eat
and when to visit

The latest books and DVDs on Britain

Discover Britain is available on tape for people with impaired vision.


For details, contact the Talking Newspaper Association of the UK,
National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB
Tel: 01435 866 102 Email: info@tnauk.org.uk

Departments
06
08
11
19
113

Editors note
Your words
News & competition
Whats on
Puzzle page

Great magazines direct to your door


Get 1 off the next issue.
Go to www.buyamag.co.uk/db
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On the cover:
Punting on the
River Cam in
Cambridge.
Photo by Stefano
Baldini/Robert
Harding

ALAMY; RYDAL MOUNT

68

BACK ISSUES
4.50 Tel: 01858 468 811
Printed in England ISSN 0950-5245
Archant Specialist 2014
News distribution: Seymour, 86 Newman Street,
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Editors Note
CONTRIBUTORS
Nick Morrison
Turn to page 28 to
read Nicks guide
to the treasures of
the unsung Durham
Dales. Even though
I grew up in nearby
North Yorkshire, it wasnt until I lived
in Darlington that I started exploring
this unfairly neglected corner of
England that has so much to offer
visitors, both in historical interest
and natural beauty, he says.

Take a walk on the wild side


FOR A SMALL ISLAND NATION, BRITAIN IS HOME TO A SURPRISING

array of wildlife. Yes, we may not have lions, tigers or vast


herds of wildebeest roaming our countryside. We cant claim
to have awe-inspiring deserts or towering glaciers either. And
we cant compete with Continental Europe for its range of
mammals, reptiles or butterflies. But we can boast some pretty
awesome wildlife spectacles and experiences, so long as you
know where and when to look. Starting on page 85 youll
find our month-by-month guide to just a few of those we think everyone should
experience just once in their lifetime. For those of you up for an extra challenge,
weve also included our round-up of where to find our rarest resident species.
If all that has you craving something a little more sedate, then how about a tour
of Britains smallest historic sites (page 36); a cruise down the Kennet and Avon
canal (page 42) or a long weekend spent exploring the treasures of the Durham
Dales (page 28) or Cambridgeshire (page 67)?
As I leave you to consider future travels around Britain, it seems like an
appropriate moment to let you know that this is my last issue as editor of
Discover Britain. Six years, three redesigns, one rebranding and just under
40 issues since I first took charge of this magazine, I would like to take this
opportunity to thank all of you who buy or subscribe to it. I only hope that you
continue to enjoy Discover Britain as much as I have enjoyed creating it!

MATTHEW HAVERCROFT
Editor
6 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

iF
a
th
E
Although Britain
might be known
for its grand stately
homes, Faith
decided it was
time our smaller
historic buildings got their turn in
the spotlight. What makes all these
places so special is their humanscale. You cannot help but connect
to their past lives and their purpose,
and I nd that intimacy both moving
and inspiring. See page 36

Anthony Lambert
Anthony reports on
his experience of
paying a visit to the
Bank of England
Museum in the City
of London, where
he learned about its important role
in shaping our national nances
since 1694. It is said that money
makes the world go round, and this
museum informs visitors about the
turbulent role of perhaps the worlds
most famous national bank, he
says. Turn to page 52

Jo Caird
Jo traces the 500year history of
Trinity House, the
charity responsible
for safeguarding
the future of
Britains historic lighthouses. I nd
lighthouses, particularly the ones
I have written about in this issue,
fascinating as symbols of mans
battle with the elements, she says.
I would love to live in one if I could!
See her feature on page 58

NHPA/PHOTOSHOT

The Scottish Highlands


and islands are some of
the best places to observe
the annual red deer rut

Mail

Your words

Let us know your thoughts on the magazine. The writer of each letter published receives a prize book
We need you!

It was lovely to read about Carmarthenshire in your


latest county guide, (Essential Carmarthenshire,
August/September 2014). I live in Brecon so most of
the places you included are familiar to me. However,
Ive never visited the Dolaucothi Gold Mines, and was
surprised to find that its a National Trust site. As Im
a member of the charity, I shall be sure to visit. I also
enjoyed the Snowdonia section you ran earlier this
year, (Essential Snowdonia, February/March 2014).
More on Wales, please!
P EVANS, BRECON

Gallop to the hills


Your feature on the white horses (Mane attractions,
June/July 2014) was interesting. I once volunteered to
help re-chalk the Ufngton White Horse in Oxfordshire
and was surprised to nd how many others turned up
for the event. One legend suggests that the horse is in
fact a dragon, and that it was on the nearby at-topped
mound called Dragon Hill that St George slayed the
beast. The middle of the hilltop is bare chalk, said to be
the dragons blood.
S TURNER, BY EMAIL

From the editor: Email us with your thoughts at editorial@discoverbritainmag.com


Follow us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/discoverbritainmag and
Twitter at @We_love_Britain

Beach memories
What great pictures in your seaside
gallery (English seaside holidays, August/
September 2014). It was amazing to see
how people used to dress for the beach
men in Sunday best! If they could see
Blackpool beachs skimpily attired crowds
today I cant help wonder what they would
say. My nearest beach is Brighton and
Ive found many equally amusing archive
images on a general internet search. I do
enjoy looking at old pictures maybe its
because they make me feel young!
KERRY MOORE, HAYWARDS HEATH

Making tracks
The welcome news that Wedgwood will
present its redeveloped visitor experience
in 2015 gives an excellent opportunity
for London Midland TOC to stop trains
at Barlaston and Wedgwood again. We
have already had 14 years of bus-titution
and our most recent change sees a seven
minute train journey from Stoke taking 50
minutes on the bus. Not a good start for
our international visitors.
ROBERT MCMILLAN, STOKE ON TRENT

Email: Get in touch at: editorial@discoverbritainmag.com


Write: Please write to Letters to the Editor, Discover Britain, Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB.
We welcome your letters, but reserve the right to edit them. Please include a daytime telephone number and, if emailing, a postal address (this will not be published).

8 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

ENGLISH HERITAGE; GETTY IMAGES; MATHEW LEEKE; SUPERSTOCK

Wales watching

Dont forget to share


your travel photos
with us. Its easy to
upload them. Just
log on to www.
discoverbritainmag.
com and click the
Readers Gallery tab
and login/create an
account, then simply
follow the easy steps.
Wed like to see the
places that have
inspired you.
Heres one taken by
reader Mathew Leeke
from Kenilworth. It
was an unexpected
shot taken in winter
in the village of Flash,
in the Peak District,
he says.

LUNDY

THE UNIQUE ISLAND EXPERIENCE

It is difcult to pin down why Lundy


Island has such an effect on people...
It is true that Lundy is different from any other island and that it is in a wonderful part of the
country, situated off the coast of North Devon.
Why not take a short break and stay in one of Lundys lovingly restored buildings. There are 23 self
catering properties which offer visitors an extraordinary range of buildings in which to stay, from a
thirteenth century Castle, a late Georgian house, Lighthouse and Fishermans Chalet. There is also
a campsite which will cater for forty people.
From April until the end of October is when the Islands own passenger and supply vessel, MS
Oldenburg, carries both day and staying visitors from Bideford or Ilfracombe, three times a week.
Winter breaks are available from November to March by helicopter ying from Hartland Point
on Mondays and Fridays. An exhilarating ight provides spectacular aerial view of Lundy and the
North Devon Coast.
Season by season, from dawn to dusk the visitor on Lundy is offered endless interest and delight.

For further information & bookings


Tel: 01271 863636 or visit www.lundyisland.co.uk

In the news

For more
of the latest
news, go to
discoverbritain
mag.com

Keeping you up to date with the latest news, tours,


discoveries and places to visit across the British Isles

ARCHAEOLOGY

STRIKING GOLD
Schoolboys unearth the
oldest metal object ever
to be found in the UK

EXHIBITION

Treasure trove
Staffordshire Hoard goes on display at new Birmingham gallery
Hundreds of Anglo-Saxon items from the Staffordshire Hoard, the
largest collection of Anglo-Saxon gold and silver metalwork ever
found, will now be on permanent display in a new dedicated gallery
at the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery from October.
Discovered in a field near the village of Hammerwich, near Lichfield
in Staffordshire, in 2009, the hoard is Britains largest recorded
treasure find, consisting of over 3,500 items, including 5.094 kilos of
gold, 1.442 kilos of silver and 3,500 cloisonn garnets.
Visitors to the new gallery will now be able to find out more about
the exquisite craftsmanship used to create the items in the hoard,
many of which are martial or warlike in character, but there are also
a number of unidentified objects, which continue to intrigue experts.
www.staffordshirehoard.org.uk

A group of Alston schoolboys has


unearthed one of the most signicant
recent archaeological nds in the UK.
The boys, aged from seven to 10, were
on a local dig at Kirkhaugh, arranged by
the North Pennines Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty (AONB) Partnerships
'Altogether Archaeology' project, when
they saw a glint of gold that turned out to
be a 4,300-year-old ornament, probably
worn as a hair tress.
The ornament is one of the earliest
metal objects to be found in the UK and
may have been worn by a rst-generation
metal worker who could have travelled
to Britain from overseas in search of gold
and copper.
The intricately decorated tress is a
rare item dating back to around 2,300
BC, a period known as the Copper Age
(pre-Bronze Age). The tress was found in
a burial mound alongside three beautiful
int arrowheads and a jet button.
The tress, along with the arrowheads
and the button, will now be analysed by
various specialists.
www.northpennines.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 11

slug
News
IN BRIEF

THE MUMMIES' RETURN


The Atkinson in Southport is due to open
a new permanent Egyptian gallery in
October. Visitors will be able to smell the
perfume of the Pharaohs, get up close and
personal with a mummy, admire beautiful
beadwork
and see a
sarcophagus
lid that is
3,000-year's-old. Many of the artefacts had
been hidden away in storage for 40 years.
www.theatkinson.co.uk
POOL RESOURCES
The Grade II*-listed Cleveland Pools, a
200-year-old Georgian lido in the historic
city of Bath, is set to be fully restored and
reopened to the public after securing
funding of 4.1m, including a development
grant of 366,200. The open-air swimming
baths are the oldest in the country and
were rst
opened in
1815 following
the Bathwick
Water
Act, which
prohibited
nude bathing in the river.
www.clevelandpools.org.uk

MARITIME

All aboard
Full scale replica of the worlds rst iron-hulled boat ofcially
opened to the public in North Lanarkshire, Scotland
The Vulcan, a 19th-century boat that
revolutionised maritime design around the
world, has returned to its original home
on the Monkland Canal in the town of
Coatbridge, Scotland, as an innovative
heritage exhibit following the completion of
a 300,000 renovation programme.
After undergoing an extensive internal
refit, the vessel has taken up its new role
as an interactive educational exhibit at
Summerlee Museum of Scottish Industrial
Life, where a range of media and artefacts
help to celebrate the history of the canals,

ironworking in North Lanarkshire, and the


Vulcans role in revolutionising shipbuilding.
The opening of the Vulcan also coincides
with the formal announcement of the
scheduling of the remaining sections of
the Monkland Canal by Historic Scotland,
recognising the key role the waterway played
in Scotlands history. Once completed, this
will officially acknowledge the Monkland
Canal as a monument of national
importance, helping to preserve its rich
heritage for the future.
www.scottishcanals.co.uk

DIVE RIGHT IN
Scotlands hidden marine landscapes and
their wildlife are now just a click away after
Scottish Natural Heritage launched online
virtual underwater dives created using
survey data, video footage, photography
and sound recordings. www.snh.gov.uk

VIEWS

Seeing is believing
THE WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER AND CORNWALL HAVE

been voted as the locations of Britains favourite


views according to the results of a new survey.
Over 7,000 respondents took part in the research,
conducted by DigitalOutdoors.co.uk, to reveal that
the nations top five scenic locations are the iconic
White Cliffs, Lake Windermere, Glen Coe, St Ives
Bay and the Isle of Wight Needles. When the results
were grouped by county, Cornwall was found to
have the highest number of sought-after views,
followed by Cumbria and Devon.
Do you agree with the results? Let us know your
favourite UK views by contacting us at editorial@
discoverbritainmag.com or via Facebook or Twitter.
12 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

ARCHAEOLOGY

DIGGING UP THE PAST


Historic grave containing the remains of 100 people found in Manchester
A long-term archaeological project is now under way in the Cross Street
area of Manchester city centre as part of Metrolinks transformational
Second City Crossing. Ground investigations carried out along the
alignment of the tram route found the remains of over 100 people, interred
150 to 200 years ago and affiliated to the Unitarian Church, on Cross
Street. The bodies will now be moved and reinterred.
Peter Cushing, Metrolink director, said: We fully recognise the duty of
care involved that is why we are following all statutory procedures and
are working closely with church and archaeological officials to ensure this
work is completed sensitively and respectfully.

QUIZ

AUCTION

Who am I?

FAMILY JEWELS

Use our clues to identify this great Briton

Agatha Christies lost diamonds


to go up for sale at Bonhams

1. Born on 26 September 1887


2. Became assistant chief designer at Vickers aviation
after the outbreak of the Second World War
3. Was behind the designs for Operation Chastise in
May 1943
4. Knighted in 1968
5. Died in October 1979
Answer on page 113

CONSERVATION

Divine intervention
Have your say in the 2014
English Heritage Angel Awards
PREHISTORIC ROCK CARVINGS ON THE

Yorkshire Moors, a vandalised urban


church with hidden murals, one of the
last working farrier blacksmiths in the
country, and an 18th-century water mill
providing electricity for the national
grid are among 16 heritage projects
that have made it to the shortlist for the
English Heritage Angel Awards 2014.
The Angel Awards were founded
in 2011 by Andrew Lloyd Webber to
celebrate the efforts of individuals and
local groups all over the country who
put hours of hard work, passion and
perseverance into saving vulnerable,
damaged and derelict historic
landmarks from being lost forever.
English Heritage is now inviting

An Agatha Christie fan has discovered a


purse of gold coins, a diamond brooch and
a three-stone diamond ring in an old trunk
belonging to the authors mother. The trunk
was purchased for 100 in the 2006 house
contents sale at the Greenway estate, the
Devon home of Agatha Christie. Inside the
travelling trunk was a locked strongbox, but
without a key the box remained sealed until
years later when the trunks new owner was
having building work done and saw the
opportunity to wrench open the box with
a crowbar. However, she had no idea that
10,000 worth of the Christie family jewels
were locked inside.
The jewels are mentioned in Agatha
Christies biography as pieces that were
earmarked for Agatha and her sister Madge
to inherit from their mothers collection.
www.bonhams.com

members of the public to view the full


shortlist and vote for their favourite.
The shortlisted project with the most
votes will win the annual English
Heritage Followers and Telegraph
Readers Favourite Angel Award.
To cast your vote, visit www.englishheritage.org.uk/angelawards
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 13

News
PHOTOGRAPHY
LANDMARK

Sea views
Shipwrecked Mariners photography competition winner revealed

1st
3rd

Soap dispenser
Coronation Street set turns
into popular visitor attraction
Fans of the television soap Coronation
Street are now able to take a tour of the
famous cobbles in central Manchester
ahead of plans to demolish the site
to make way for a new housing
development. The soap is now being
lmed in Trafford after over 30 years
of lming at the former 'Weathereld'
set, but English Heritage have deemed
the site as having insufcient historic or
architectural signicance to warrant a
listed status.
The set has already attracted
hundreds of thousands of visitors and
although it is currently due to close at the
beginning of October, this date may now
be extended to accommodate demand.
www.ticketmaster.co.uk/
coronationstreet

INTERVIEW

FIT FOR A QUEEN


We caught up with author Alison Weir, following the launch of her novel The Marriage Game on Elizabeth I
How did you conduct your research?
I had all the research to hand, having done
reams of it for six non-ction books on (or
touching on) Elizabeth I, over many years.

Do the former stately homes


and castles of your Tudor
characters inspire you?
They do inspire me, immensely,
and I feel that it is important
to visit them because there is
nothing like being on the spot
to learn about the ambience,
atmosphere (particularly
important for historical ction),
details and geography. You
may also pick up a fund of local
knowledge. I visit these sites for

14 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

pleasure too, and professionally, for book events,


and on the themed historical tours that I lead.
I have many times had the privilege of visiting,
staying at, and/or dining in many historic houses,
palaces and castles. Hever Castle in
Kent has to be my all-time favourite,
but there are many close seconds!

Do you think Elizabeth I had a


more difcult time compared to
male monarchs?
She had the disadvantage of
being seen as hampered with all
the perceived weaknessess and
imperfections of her sex, and one of
the reasons why she did not marry
was because she feared the birth of
a son who might be used to displace

her; but she used her femininity to advantage,


and stressed the qualities in herself that were
seen as masculine, and therefore admired. So
I wouldnt say that she had a far more difcult
time, as queen, because of her sex. I think she
rather revelled in that aspect!

Which character in all your novels has been


the most fun to write, and why?
Elizabeth, without a doubt! What a character
she was! And there is broad scope for humour,
fascinating speculation, and psychological
insights into a complex character who was
honed in a dangerous and insecure world.

The Marriage Game is published by Hutchinson,


priced 18.99, hardback.
www.alisonweir.org.uk

ALAMY; SIMON CRITCHLEY; CLEVELAND POOLS TRUST; DEVLIN PHOTO LTD; VISIT CORNWALL; ITV; JUSTIN MINNS; DAVE PEAKE; GARY COX

Justin Minns, a photographer from Suffolk, has won first prize in the
Shipwrecked Mariners coastal photo competition for his image of the
wreck of Steam Trawler Sheraton on Norfolk's Hunstanton Beach.
The winning image was judged by a panel of experts, including
Matt Havercroft, editor of Discover Britain; Kate Westaway, a marine
photographer and TV producer; and Commodore Malcolm Williams,
the charitys chief executive.
The runners up were Devon's Dave Peake with his photo taken half
underwater in Kingsand rock pool in Cornwall,
2nd
and Gary Cox from Gloucester with his photo of
Porthcawl Lighthouse in Bridgend, Wales.
www.shipwreckedmariners.org.uk

COMPETITION

Win

a two-night stay for two at a London boutique hotel just minutes


from Oxford Street and within easy reach of the citys iconic landmarks and attractions

THE PRIZE

Enjoy a two-night stay for two on a B&B basis at myhotel


Bloomsbury in the heart of London.

BY POST: Send your answer, name and contact details to myhotel Bloomsbury Competition,
Discover Britain magazine, Johnson Dellow Ltd, 59-61 High Street, Kings Langley,
Hertfordshire WD4 9HU.
BY EMAIL: Send your answer and contact details to archant@johnsondellow.com with
Discover Britain myhotel Bloomsbury Competition in the subject line. Please also indicate if
you prefer not to receive product information.
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 15 December 2014. The prize is subject to availability,
excludes Bank Holidays, is non transferable and is valid for 12 months after the closing date. All other
food and transport is payable by the winner. Employees (and relatives) of Archant are not eligible to enter.
Winners names may be published.

eve teamed up with myhotels to offer one reader and


a guest the chance to win a two-night stay at myhotel
Bloomsbury, a popular four-star boutique London
hotel in the heart of the city. If you love the buzz of
London this prize of a two-night stay and complimentary breakfast
at the Bib Gourmand-winning GAILs Kitchen provides the perfect
getaway. Not only can you enjoy a weekend break, you can also
soak up some of the capitals culture by visiting local attractions
such as the British Museum, the famous theatre district and the
iconic Oxford Street.
myhotel Bloomsbury, features 78 contemporary rooms including
three exclusive suites, two of which, myplace1 and myplace2 offer
balconies with stunning views across Londons serene Bedford
Square. Once settled into your room youre free to spend the
weekend however you wish. Situated close to Tottenham Court
Road and St Pancras stations you can enjoy easy access to Londons
top attractions.
For those who dont win why not make the most of myhotels 48
Hours in London package? For more information about this and
myhotels, call: 0333 240 9094, or visit www.myhotels.com

HOW TO ENTER

In which part of London is Oxford Street located?


A East End

B West End

C South End

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The latest books and DVDs celebrating Britains history

Reviews

Our View

EVERYMANS
CASTLE
PHILIPPA LEWIS, FRANCES
LINCOLN, HARDBACK,
20

The British obsession


with getting a foot
on the housing
ladder is confirmed.
From terraces to
flats, bungalows to
country mansions,
Lewis investigates the
changing fashions of
our homes and the
importance we, as
a nation, place on
our castle, whether
freehold, leasehold
or rented, and the
status attached to it.
Illustrations of homes
throughout the eras
show how inventive,
and aspirational, we
have been.
www.frances
lincoln.com

RECOMMENDED

QUIET LONDON: Culture


SIOBHAN WALL, FRANCES LINCOLN, PAPERBACK, 7.99

One of a series of three understated little paperbacks, Culture illustrates those


rare hushed areas where theres space to think, to browse and appreciate your
surroundings. The author notes that her research across sister titles: Quiet Corners
and Food & Drink, was not just about seeking places to avoid the crowds but to nd
peace and happiness. It turns out there are more of these spots across the capital
than you might think. Smaller visitor attractions such as Strawberry Hill House
in Twickenham and De Morgan Centre in Wandsworth are featured alongside
galleries, bookshops and cultural centres. Also recommended are a number of small
shops offering a serene retail experience. www.franceslincoln.com
FIRST WORLD WAR
POEMS

MUST SEE

THE BEATLES: A Hard Days Night

EDITED BY JANE
MCMORLAND HUNTER,
NATIONAL TRUST BOOKS,
HARDBACK, 12.99

On the centenary
of the outbreak
of the First World
War, this beautiful
collection of poems
and illustrations, many
published here for
the first time, brings
together the words
of ordinary soldiers
who experienced the
battlefield, alongside
celebrated war poets
such as Wilfred Owen,
Rudyard Kipling,
AE Housman and
Siegfried Sassoon.
The National Trusts
involvement in the
collection stems from
its care of places
where these works
originated; the wars
aftermath being
the reason for the
charitys acquisition of
country houses. The
collection is sombre,
reflective and leaves
the reader in no doubt
of the devastation and
sacrifice of events.
www.anova
books.com

DVD

(blu-ray and two-disc)


15.99

THE MARRIAGE
GAME
ALISON WEIR,
HUTCHINSON,
HARDBACK, 18.99

Full of intrigue, scandal


and tragedy, this
new offering from
bestselling historian
Weir retells the story
of Elizabeth I, whose
experience as an
unpopular young
queen is depicted as
one wrought with
danger at every turn.
While some spread
rumours that she is
not a virgin, ambitious
men line up to lead
her politically astray, or
attempt to trick their
way into a position
of power. Her one
romantic ally, Master
of the Horse, Lord
Robert Dudley, is
at the centre of the
Tudor courts malicious
gossip; he is married
and highly unpopular
for his familys past
actions. Elizabeth must
play the game and use
her wits to keep hold
of the crown.
www.windmillbooks.co.uk

This specially remastered DVD follows


a typical day in the life of the
Liverpool band as they try to make it
to their big show. John, Paul, George
and Ringo are due to catch a train to
London with their entourage, but its
not so simple, with plenty of hilarious
incidents set to hinder their journey.
www.amazon.co.uk
THREE OF A KIND

Discover the secrets of a stately pile near you...

THE ENGLISH
COUNTRY HOUSE
GARDEN

A YEAR IN THE LIFE


OF DOWNTON
ABBEY

GEORGE PLUMTRE,
FRANCES LINCOLN,
HARDBACK, 25

JESSICA FELLOWES,
HEADLINE, HARDBACK,
20

Stroll through some


of the nations finest
gardens, from the
earliest pruned acres
created around 500
years ago to the most
contemporary designs
of today. Beautiful
images combine with
narrative to highlight
the most romantic
plots, inspiring any
gardener to recreate
some of the magic.
www.frances
lincoln.com

As a new season of
the TV series starts,
peek into the world of
Downton Abbey some
six years after the First
World War. Change
has come with new
faces in the kitchens,
grounds and even
at the dinner table.
Through the clutch of
survivors, life at the
big house starts anew.
www.headline.co.uk

THE COUNTRY
HOUSE AT WAR
SIMON GREAVES,
NATIONAL TRUST BOOKS,
HARDBACK, 20

Looking at the First


World War, chapters
deal with the home
front, women at war,
notorious battles, and
the wars aftermath.
Filled with archive
photographs, poster
art and battlefield
pictures, this tells
how the wars impact
changed the nations
social order.
www.anova
books.com

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 17

Whats on

ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2014; BRINKHOFF MGENBURG; EDWIN SMITH/RIBA LIBRARY; VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

Halloween

Gold

25 October
2 November
Hever Castle, Kent

7 November
22 February 2015
Buckingham Palace, London

Expect plenty of ghostly


goings-on to keep the
children entertained at
Hever, with themed craft
workshops, ghoulish
activities and prizes for
the best Halloween
costume. Gather round
and listen to tales of
witches and warlocks
from the castles very own storyteller. Follow the castles
spooky trail and search for clues hidden around the
gardens to solve the challenge and win a terrible treat!

When it comes to this


exhibition, all that glitters is
most certainly gold. From the
Bronze Age Rillaton Cup,
fashioned from a single sheet of
gold, to a striking 18th-century tiger
head from the throne of Tipu Sultan, every corner of the Royal
Collection has been raided to bring together this display of
glistening treasures. Along the way, learn more about the
distinctive qualities of this precious metal associated with kings,
queens and gods in different cultures around the world.

Tel: 01732 865 224; www.hevercastle.co.uk

Tel: 020 7766 7300; www.royalcollection.org.uk

Ordinary Beauty: The


Photography of Edwin Smith
Until 6 December
RIBA, London
See over 100 black and white photographs in the rst
major retrospective of Edwin Smith, one of Britains
foremost 20th-century photographers. Seeking to
capture the essence of places, landscapes and buildings,
Smiths work had many admirers including Cecil Beaton
and John Betjemen, the latter describing Smith as a
genius at photography. Included are urban scenes,
evocative landscapes and atmospheric interiors.
Tel: 0207 580 5533; www.architecture.com

Wedding Dresses
Until 15 March 2015
V&A, London

The Horse at War: 1914-1918


25 November 1 March 2015
The Lightbox, Woking

Lace and rufes are in abundance at this exhibition which


takes a look at the history of wedding dress designs.
Among the collection are some of the most romantic,
glamorous and extravagant gowns from the V&As
collection, as well as those worn by royalty and famous
gures from popular culture. Visitors can trace changes in
fashion over the last two centuries and learn more about
the people who wore these fabulous designs.

Exploring the role of the horse in World War


One, this exhibition will compare the gloried
image of ofcers and their chargers at war
with the piteous desolation of these animals
as beasts of burden when faced with gunre
and trench warfare. The original West End
horse puppet from the National Theatres stage
adaptation of Michael Morpurgos novel War
Horse, will feature; the rst time the puppet
has been on display outside London.

Tel: 020 7942 2000; www.vam.ac.uk

Tel: 01483 737 800; www.thelightbox.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 19

LONDON & SOUTH EAST

Our selection of the essential events and exhibitions taking


place across the British Isles in October and November

Events

SOUTH & SOUTH WEST

The Modern Lens:


International Photography
and the Tate Collection

West Country Meanderings

14 October 10 May 2015


Tate St Ives, Cornwall

This one-man show of oils and


watercolours highlights the latest
body of work from the President of
the distinguished New English Art
Club, Richard Pikesley. Painted over
the last couple of years, the work on
display is a collection of landscapes
and coastal subjects from South
Devon and further west. Hours of
walking and study helped to create a
group of compelling works painted
on Dartmoor, with smaller panels
painted in the open air providing a
sense of spontaneity.

Looking at developments in international


photography from the 1920s to the 1960s,
this exhibition uncovers the sense of curiosity
and experimentation as artists harnessed the
medium in new ways.
Tel: 01736 796 226; www.tate.org.uk

18 October 5 November
Jerram Gallery, Dorset

Tel: 01935 815 261; www.jerramgallery.com

Nocturnal Encounters
27 September 8 November
St Barbe Museum & Art Gallery, Lymington

Oceans
11 October 9 January 2015
Hestercombe Gallery, Somerset
This unique exhibition allows visitors to view
the worlds oceans and seas showcased in
365 glass bottles! This library of sea water
has been collected from around the world by
artist Tania Kovats, and forms the centrepiece
of this exhibition which looks at the way we
experience and explore different landscapes,
and the ways we interact with the sea.
Tel: 01823 413 923; www.hestercombe.com

Ghost Fest
1 October 30 November
Oxford Castle Unlocked, Oxford
Scare yourself silly at this years Ghost
Fest where all manner of spooky
delights will be taking place. Brave the
castle overnight to complete a ghost
hunt, enjoy a spooky tour followed by
a scrumptious dinner with the After
Dark Dinner packages, attend a Murder
Mystery evening and try to solve the
castles latest crime, or meet the ghosts
and ghouls behind prison cell doors
during the trick or treating nights!
Tel: 01865 260 666;
www.oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk

20 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

A mix of new and earlier atmospheric prints of the


natural world by wood engraver Colin See-Paynton
demonstrates the skill of the artist who was entirely
self-taught. Colin began to make wood engravings
in 1980 and soon established himself as one of
the worlds most revered printmakers. His work is
based on the meticulous observation of the natural
world, inventing complex compositions that link
species and their habitats.
Using his knowledge and imagination to
construct engravings of great complexity and
renement, he has evolved something new by
the patterning and layering of his images. This
exhibition mixes new work, focusing on a family
of hares that made their home in Colins garden,
and a selection of earlier work, which uses an
increasingly abstract and uid line to capture the
fast and eeting movements of birds and sh.
Tel: 01590 676 969; www.stbarbe-museum.org.uk

Silent Partners

27 September 14 December
Compton Verney, Warwickshire

14 October 25 January 2015


Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge

Discover the energy, variety and inventiveness of some


of Britains unsung artists in this rst major exhibition of
British Folk Art, drawn from collections across the UK.
Steeped in tradition and often created by self-taught
artists and artisans, the remarkable objects include
ships gureheads, quirky shop signs, leather Toby
jugs, pin cushions made by soldiers, paintings by Alfred
Wallis and elaborately crafted quilts.

Follow the history of the artists


mannequin, from an inconspicuous
studio tool to artists subject and
fetish. Mannequins have been
developed over the years to become
more lifelike the skill of mannequinmaking becoming a profession in its
own right. In this wide-ranging
display, paintings, drawings, books
and photographs provide a surprising
and, at times, disturbing glimpse into
the lives of artists and their xation
with mannequins throughout history.

TATE; RUTH CLARK; LENT BY THE AMERICAN FUND FOR THE TATE GALLERY, COURTESY OF THE LATIN AMERICAN ACQUISITIONS COMMITTEE 2010 FABIANA DE BARROS; MCPHERSONSTEVENS.COM; BRITISH MUSEUM

Tel: 01926 645 500; www.comptonverney.org.uk

Tel: 01223 332 900; www.tzmuseum.cam.ac.uk

Cheltenham
Literature Festival
3-12 October
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
From Judi Dench and John Cleese to
Margaret Atwood and Nick Hornby,
Cheltenham hosts a range of author talks,
making it the place to be for bookworms
this October. With over 500 events
planned, covering history, sport, food and
fashion theres plenty to choose from,
whatever your interests. Tickets are sure to
sell out quickly, so book your place well in
advance on one of the many entertaining
talks or activities led by some of the
heavyweights of the literary world.

Rembrandt the printmaker


Until 26 October
Gainsboroughs House, Suffolk
A selection of extraordinary etchings by Rembrandt
van Rijn demonstrates the Dutch masters remarkable
achievements in the medium that would go on to
inspire Gainsborough. At the height of his career,
Rembrandt undertook several lucrative royal and guild
commissions, yet died penniless. Now visitors to the
property will have the opportunity to appreciate a
fascinating aspect of the artists work.
Tel: 01787 372 958; www.gainsborough.org

Tel: 0844 880 8094;


www.cheltenhamfestivals.com/literature

Fireworks Night
1 November
Blists Hill Victorian Town, Shropshire
View a spectacular family reworks
extravaganza at this Victorian town attraction
where visitors will be able to see the streets lit
by gaslight, just as they would have been in
the 19th century. The towns shops, cottages
and workshops will be open throughout the
evening for visitors to look around where
they can meet a variety of cheery costumed
characters before enjoying the main event,
when the sky will be illuminated by a fantastic
reworks display.
Tel: 01952 433 424; www.ironbridge.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 21

CENTRAL & EAST

British Folk Art

Events

NORTH

Emily Sutton: Town


and Country
15 November 20 February 2015
Yorkshire Sculpture Park,
Wakefield
Taking inspiration from her visits to
Yorkshire Sculpture Park as well as
her travels in Europe, artist Emily
Sutton will be exhibiting a range
of original and intricate paintings
and screen-prints. All the charming,
colourful works on show are
available to buy so you can take your
favourite piece home with you.
Tel: 01924 832 631; www.ysp.co.uk

Richard Phethean: Solo


Ceramic Showcase
Until 25th October
The Craft Centre and Design Gallery,
Leeds
With a fabulous collection of mugs, vessels,
dishes, bottles, bowls and teapots on display,
discover the classical designs of Richard
Phetheans earthenware. Richards glazed
tableware incorporates sgrafto and spongeprinted processes and explores contour and
shape, through a combination of throwing and
slab built techniques.
Tel: 0113 247 8241; www.craftcentreleeds.co.uk

Screaming Steel: Art, War and Trauma 1914-18

COURTESY OF YSP/JONTY WILDE; IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUMS; MICHAEL D KERN

Until 13 December
Hatton Gallery, Newcastle upon Tyne
The horrors endured by soldiers during the First World War and their
creative responses to the war are examined within this exhibition. Some of
the most important 20th-century British art and literature was created as
a result of the Great War, with writing and painting used in a therapeutic
capacity to help alleviate the suffering of shellshocked soldiers. The
exhibition includes the original draft of the poem Anthem for Doomed
Youth by Wilfred Owen, who was treated for shellshock at Craiglockhart.
Tel: 0191 208 6059; www.hattongallery.org.uk

Sssnakes Alive
Until 22 February 2015
World Museum, Liverpool
Come face to face with boa constrictors and royal pythons as you
discover the secret life of snakes. Find out how these incredible
creatures capture their prey, shed their skin and learn about the
important conservation work protecting them. View the skeleton
of a Burmese python and learn what life is like in countries where
encounters with deadly snakes are a daily occurrence.
Tel: 0151 478 4393; www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk

Birds of Paradise:
Plumes & Feathers in Fashion
25 October 19 April 2015
The Bowes Museum, County Durham

Those with a passion for fashion are bound to get


all autter over the extravagant catwalk creations
on display. Exploring the use of feathers in couture
and haute couture, a range of hats, fans and
shoes are among the items on show along with
the work of top designers, including Alexander
McQueen, Christian Dior, Prada
and Gucci. The whole ensemble
creates a striking display!
Tel: 01833 690 606;
www.thebowesmuseum.
org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 23

Events

14 November 8 February 2015


Palace of Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh
A violent and impetuous man, Castiglione was
repeatedly in court for assault and mysteriously
forced to ee Rome. This exhibition examines the
troubles that overshadowed his brilliance.
Tel: 0131 556 5100;
www.royalcollection.org.uk

Fred A Farrell
Glasgows War Artist
Until 23 November
Peoples Palace, Glasgow

Commissioned by the
Corporation of Glasgow to create
50 drawings that would capture
the life of the Scottish regiments
on the Western Front and those
working in the armament
factories at home, the work of
First World War artist, Fred A
Farrell, will now be on display at
the Peoples Palace. The stirring images include depictions of workers
forging guns and building submarines and tanks, as well as haunting
battleeld scenes and images of life in the trenches.
Tel: 0141 287 4350; www.glasgowlife.org.uk

Snowdonia Walking
Festival
25-26 October
Betws-y-Coed, North Wales
Stamp the mud off your walking boots and
take part in a range of guided treks with
local experts who will lead you around the
forests, lakes and mountains that make
up the spectacular landscape of Wales.
Whether you want to do a three-mile stroll
or spend the day hiking up mountains,
theres something for all tness levels. One
walk in Betws village is suitable for those
with disabilities. All walks suitable for
visually impaired with accompanying guide.

Wales Rally GB
13-16 November
Conwy, North Wales
The nal round of the FIA World Rally
Championship will see world-class racing in
North Wales. From the ceremonial start at Eirias
Park Stadium to the nish line on Mostyn Street
in Llandudno, spectators can indulge their need
for speed as they watch competitors navigate
their way along the route. If that wasnt enough
there will also be family-friendly RallyFest
events to enjoy at Chirk Castle and Kinmel Park,
complete with live coverage, and historic rally
cars on display.
Tel: 0844 499 9999; www.walesrallygb.com

Tel: 01690 720 331; www.


snowdoniawalkingfestival.co.uk

Dundee Science Festival


1-16 November
Various venues, Dundee
For anyone with a passion for lab coats, safety
goggles and Bunsen burners, Dundee is the
place to be this November. Transforming the city
into a vibrant celebration of science, engineering
and technology, the Dundee Science Festival
offers visitors an eclectic mix of experiences,
performances, special events, lectures and debate
aimed to excite people of all ages. Experience
the rich heritage of science and technology and
be inspired by what you see. Therell be plenty to
entertain throughout the festival, with a range of
family events, comedy, shows and exhibitions.
www.dundeesciencefestival.org

24 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST HM QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2014; CROWN COPYRIGHT (2014) VISIT WALES

SCOTLAND & WALES

Castiglione: Lost Genius

The Intern

Water works
HELEN OCHYRA is on a mission to nd Britains best job. This month
we sent her to try a day in the life of Falmouths harbour master

26 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

Falmouth harbour is some 17 square miles of sea


and so the breadth of decision-making is vast
From top: Falmouth
has beautiful sailing
opportunities and a busy
commercial port; Helen
shadows Mark Sansom

Every vessel that uses the port must pay a


fee and this covers the costs of the harbour.
It also keeps some 1,000 people employed
its not difficult to see how Falmouth has
weathered the recession. 1998 saw the
inauguration of the Tall Ships Race here,
bringing renewed prosperity for the town.
Falmouth harbour has worked with
Milford Haven to get gas onshore.
The importance of Britains ports cannot
be underestimated therefore neither can
the importance of Sansoms job. You need
a level of trust and understanding, he says.
As his team work as a unit to check the
Isis this becomes apparent and back in the
office there is a palpable sense of pride in
their work. All sorts of activity is taking
place, from communicating with vessels to
responding to environmental legislation.
There is a real buzz. As Sansom says, this is
a unique place to work. And, Im certain,
an endlessly fascinating one.

FAST FACTS
Contact: For more
information on the
Falmouth Harbour
Commission see www.
falmouthport.co.uk. For
more on Falmouth visit
www.visitcornwall.com.

HELEN OCHYRA

orts have always been a law unto


themselves. Although owned by
the Crown, Britains ports have
long been entrusted to the great
and good of the town that services them.
That makes Mark Sansom, harbour master
for Falmouth Harbour Commission, a very
powerful man indeed. Sansom is responsible
for all operations in the harbour, from ships
calling in to refuel to the pilotage of vessels
needing to come in to port. The harbour
is some 17 square miles of sea and so the
breadth of decision-making is vast.
The constant changes in the harbour are
immediately obvious, as Sansom explains
that the Isis, a cargo ship from the Isle of
Man, is currently moored offshore and in
need of repair. One of Falmouth harbours
main functions is the repair of vessels and
the Isis although here by chance is likely
to be in Sansoms waters for a while. It needs
secure mooring and the harbour staff are
concerned it does not have the equipment
required to attach it safely to the buoy, so we
need to go out and check the ships ropes.
This requires a trip on the pilot boat,
which spends its days zipping about bringing
ships in and out. We head to the harbour,
passing dozens of luxury yachts as we
cross the jetty. This is another of Falmouth
harbours main sources of income, with
yachts moored, repaired and refitted here.

The forgotten
Sandwiched between the Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland National
Parks, the Durham Dales is a natural haven unscathed by the regions
industrial past, where you can nd a wealth of spectacular (and
unexpected) historic attractions
WORDS NICK MORRISON
28 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

The Blackton Reservoir


seen from Goldsborough
Rigg on the Pennine Way,
Baldersdale, Teesdale

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 29

A
Durham Dales

FRENCH-STYLE CHATEAU IS PROBABLY NOT WHAT YOU EXPECT

to find down a quiet country lane in the middle of NorthEast England. But there, nestling on a road leading out of the
market town of Barnard Castle, is a building with a royal
connection that is home to one of the countrys most intriguing
museums, and a nationally-renowned art collection.

This monument to 19th-century philanthropy is the


Bowes Museum, built to house an assembly of objects
from paintings to porcelain brought together by one of
the true characters of Victorian-era collecting.
The museum, recently enhanced by the addition
of new galleries, is just one of many highlights in the
Durham Dales, a picturesque antidote to the industrial
image more usually associated with this part of the
world and often unfairly overlooked by visitors,
sandwiched as it is between the two national parks of the
Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland.
As well as Barnard Castle, an attractive town of
bustling antique shops, a Charles Dickens connection
and the castle that gives it its name, the Dales also boasts
the spectacular High Force waterfall, medieval Raby
Castle, and of course the North Pennines themselves,
designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The Bowes Museum would seem more at home in the

30 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

Loire Valley than a hop and a skip from the Tees and
it is true it has not always been universally admired:
the famed architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner, for
example, described it as incongruous and gloriously
inappropriate for its setting.
But whatever its architectural merits, there is no
doubting the importance of the collection housed within
its walls. Seemingly eclectic, it is in fact linked by a
common thread: the passion for European fine and
decorative arts from the 14th to 19th centuries on the
part of its original patrons, John and Josephine Bowes.
Sadly, both John and Josephine were to die before
the museum opened, but by then they had amassed an
astonishing 15,000 objects, bought over a prolific 12year period visiting the exhibitions, auction houses and
private dealers of continental Europe.
Although added to since, at its core the collection
bears the hallmarks of Josephines own passions.
Landscape painting was a particular love, but it did not
stop there, according to Howard Coutts, the museums
keeper of ceramics.
She was clearly very keen on ceramics and bought
about 5,000 examples, all of good quality, and she seems
to have known what she was buying, he says. But
her taste was hugely wide-ranging, including textiles,
metalwork, furniture and paintings. She had grand
ambitions and there was nothing she didnt dip into.
Dr Coutts has his own theory about the genesis of the
museum. We have lots of marble figures of sleeping
children and that maybe meant something to Josephine
personally, he says. In the absence of being able to
have children, perhaps the museum and the objects were
her children.
The most internationally significant part of the
collection is undoubtedly the paintings, featuring
works by Goya, El Greco and
Canaletto, among others. A
Left: Barnard Castle
previously unknown portrait by
town is renowned for its
Anthony van Dyck, previously
antique shops, and its
thought to be a copy and
eponymous castle ruin

languishing in the museums


Clockwise from top:
Bowes Museum; its
storerooms, was identified last
art collection includes
year after being spotted online.
Anthony van Dycks
But if the paintings are the
Olivia Boteler Porter;
the North Pennines;
most well-known, there are
Canalettos Venice
plenty of other highlights in the
collection, which ranges from
glassware to furniture, costumes to tapestries. Perhaps
best-loved is the Silver Swan [see page 33]; there is
one of the countrys best assemblies of 18th-century
ceramics, including Delftware and faience, as well as
Sevres and Chantilly porcelain.
The museum has also recently completed a sevenyear, 12m programme of improvements, involving
creating a new fashion and textile gallery devoted
to English interiors from 1500-1900, and a silver
and metals gallery, allowing many items previously
in storage to go on display. The project also saw
landscaping work to the museums 22-acre grounds, and
improved visitor facilities.
As well as its collection, the Bowes Museum can
also lay claim to a royal connection. John Bowes was
related to the family of the late Queen Mother, formerly
Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, who visited the area many
times as a child and was patron of the museum until her
death in 2002.
But the museum is far from the only thing of historic
interest to bring visitors to the Durham Dales. Barnard
Castle takes its name from a 12th-century castle the
remains of which still overlook the town.
Built by Bernard de Balliol, whose descendants
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 31

From top: Barnard


Castle, a 12th-century
fortress, overlooks the
River Tees; spectacular
High Force waterfall

include the Scottish king John de Balliol


and the founder of Balliol College,
Oxford, it occupies a prominent position
perched on a rock above the Tees.
In the 15th century it came into
the hands of Richard Neville, Earl of
Warwick, known as the Kingmaker for his role in the
Wars of the Roses, and then to Richard III, whose boar
emblem is carved above a window in the inner ward.
The castle played a prominent role in the Rising of the
North against Elizabeth I in 1569, when 5,000 rebels
besieged a loyalist force taking shelter within its walls.
The loyalists surrendered but following the failure of the
rising, it was seized by the crown and finally abandoned
in the 17th century and much of its stone plundered. The
remains are now in the care of English Heritage.
Skipping forward a few centuries, Charles Dickens
stayed at the Kings Head in Barnard Castle when he
came north to research his third novel in 1838. His visit
is marked by a commemorative plaque, and across the
road another plaque marks the site of Humphreys Clock
Makers, made famous albeit without the final s in
Dickens short-story Master Humphreys Clock. The
clock itself is in the Bowes Museum.
But it was in a nearby village that Dickens found
inspiration for one of his most notorious creations
and one of literatures most reviled villains. Keen to
expose the inhuman conditions in schools, Dickens is

32 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

Durham Dales
said to have based the character of Wackford Squeers, tyrannical
headmaster of Dotheboys Hall in Nicholas Nickleby, on William
Shaw, of Shaws Academy in Bowes.
Although fear of libel meant Dickens always denied the
connection, Shaw had been prosecuted after eight boys in his care
had gone blind through neglect and insanitary conditions. As well as
sharing initials and profession, the two both wore eye patches.
Following Nicholas Nicklebys publication, the academy was
forced to close and Shaw was disgraced. The school has now been
converted into flats, and in acknowledgement of the connection has
been renamed Dotheboys Hall.
Upstream from Barnard Castle lies the mighty High Force
waterfall, where the River Tees comes crashing over a sheer drop to
plunge 21 metres into a pool, a scene sketched by Turner in 1816.
A well-maintained path takes visitors the third of a mile from a car
park by the roadside to the waterfall.
The Dales, comprising Teesdale and Weardale, are sparsely

At the Dales eastern edge,


Hamsterley Forest provides a
wildlife haven, its 2,000 acres
criss-crossed by public trails
populated, an expanse of exposed moorlands, hills dotted with drystone walls and steep valleys that together comprise the Durham
section of the North Pennines. As well as the Tees, the rivers Wear
and Derwent also rise in the Dales, the latter forming Durhams
northern border as it heads towards the North Sea.
Settlements are few and far between. The market towns of
Stanhope, Middleton-in-Teesdale and Wolsingham, as well as
Barnard Castle, are the main centres of population, interspersed
with attractive villages built from the local limestone.
Spring is a good time to see breeding lapwings,
From top: The 18thcentury clockwork swan
oystercatchers and redshanks, while the elusive black
is a life-size, life-like
grouse inhabits the moors. Catching black grouses
automaton housed at
courtship ritual or lek is a magical encounter, but
the Bowes Museum; the
usually involves a not-quite-so-magical early start.
picturesque Dales

THE SILVER SWAN

Time your visit to the Bowes Museum to


see its clockwork star strike a pose
For many visitors to the Bowes Museum, their
most memorable experience is not just seeing
the Silver Swan, but seeing it in action.
The life-size swan sits serenely in a silver
stream. At a given time, the swan starts to swim.
It turns its head from side to side, twists its neck
to preen its back, and then lunges into the water
to catch and swallow a silver sh, before coming
to a halt and resuming its position.
It is all done by clockwork, for the swan is an
automaton of a sort popular as curiosities in the
late 18th and early 19th century.
The stream is a collection of silver rods that
twist to give the appearance of a moving
waterway, with the tableau operated by three
separate mechanisms.
The swan was bought by John and Josephine
Bowes in 1872, after they had seen it at the Paris
International Exhibition in 1867, but by then it was
already almost 100 years old.
Created in 1773, the following year it was
recorded as being a star attraction at the
Mechanical Museum of James Cox, a noted
creator of automata, whose Peacock Clock is a
feted exhibit at the Hermitage Museum in
St Petersburg.
The swan changed hands several times before
the Bowes paid 200 to a Parisian art dealer, but
not before it was also viewed by American author
Mark Twain, who described its operation in his
book, The Innocents Abroad.
It underwent extensive conservation work in
2008 and is operated once a day at 2pm to
preserve the mechanism, the performance
lasting approximately 40 seconds.
The swan is one of a number of mechanical
objects collected by Josephine Bowes, who was
perhaps inspired by childhood memories of her
clockmaker father.

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 33

Raby Castles art collection


features work by Sir Joshua
Reynolds and Van Dyck
At the Dales eastern edge, Hamsterley Forest
provides another wildlife haven, its 2,000 acres crisscrossed by footpaths, cycle routes and horse-riding trails.
The other side of Barnard Castle is Raby Castle, one of
Englands finest medieval castles. Set in a 200-acre deer
park, the 14th-century castle was held by the Nevilles, at
one time one of the kingdoms most powerful families.
Among the familys illustrious members were Earl
Richmond and Earl Marshal of England, his
daughter Cicely, mother of Edward IV and
Above: Raby Castle has
Richard III and grandmother to Henry VIs bride
ne interiors, an enviable
Elizabeth of York.
art collection and 200
The Nevilles ownership came to an end after
acres of lush parkland
34 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

the Rising of the North, when, along with Barnard Castle,


it was forfeited to the crown. It was later sold to Sir Henry
Vane, whose son played a prominent role in the Civil War
and was executed on the Restoration of Charles II. Raby
is still in the hands of the Vane family, with the lord of the
manor given the title of Lord Barnard in 1698.
The castle itself features medieval towers and turrets,
and a five-sided tower the only one of its kind in England
and one of only two in Europe. It was surrounded by a
moat until the water was drained in the 18th century.
Although the public rooms are largely 18th- and 19thcentury, the Barons Hall retains medieval features,
including a minstrels gallery. The art collection features
work by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Anthony Van Dyck.
With such a wealth of historic attractions, it is
surprising that the Durham Dales are not better known,
but there is little doubt that they make it a hidden gem
well worth discovering.
For more information on the region and its attractions
visit www.thisisdurham.com

ALAMY; VISIT COUNTY DURHAM

Durham Dales

A testament to its
designer's Catholic
faith, Rushton
Triangular Lodge in
Northamptonshire
is symbolic of the
Holy Trinity

36 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

WONDERS
Forget Britain's grand castles and stately homes as we put a selection of our
smallest heritage sites in the spotlight. What they lack in size and presence,
they more than make up for in history and intrigue. Here's 10 of the best...
WORDS FAITH ECKERSALL

THE SWISS COTTAGE

PLAYHOUSE OF QUEEN VICTORIAS CHILDREN

OSBORNE HOUSE, YORK AVENUE, EAST COWES,


ISLE OF WIGHT PO32 6JX

As playhouses go, they dont come more impressively


than the Swiss Cottage, the wooden structure completed
in 1854 to enable the children of Queen Victoria to
experience being ordinary citizens. Naturally the
idea was Prince Alberts and resulted in a two-storey
property, set nearly a mile from the main house, where
the royal children learned to cook, garden they sold
their produce to their father at commercial rates and
run a home. Victoria and Albert would pop by for
official visits, the Queen often attended to state papers
at the scaled-down desk and chair in the dining room,
and the cottage and its annexe now houses many of the
items collected by the Victorian princes and princesses.
One royal biographer summed it up thus: In this little
paradise the children did what they liked, but they were
shown the best way of doing it.
Tel: 01983 200 022; www.english-heritage.org.uk

CLOUDS HILL

RURAL RETREAT OF LAWRENCE OF ARABIA


BOVINGTON, DORSET BH20 7NQ

Ive a hut in a wood near camp where I spend my


evenings, was how TE Lawrence described the tiny
bolthole he purchased to escape the hubbub of 1920s

military life. There are just the four rooms but what
Clouds Hill lacks in size it makes up for in character;
each space reveals another facet of Lawrences
mysterious persona. The downstairs library contains
his books, photos and his self-designed reading chair;
opposite is the primitive and lavatory-less bathroom.
Creaking stairs transport the visitor under the eaves to
the music room, with its portraits and busts and from
where his favourite classical pieces trickle through
into the aluminium-lined bunk room, where overnight
guests included the novelist EM Forster and playwright
George Bernard Shaw. Outside in the former garage is a
fascinating exhibition about Lawrences life. But even for
visitors and volunteer staff, there is still no loo!
Tel: 01929 405 616; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/clouds-hill

A LA RONDE

18TH-CENTURY, 16-SIDED HOUSE


SUMMER LANE, EXMOUTH, DEVON EX8 5BD

When spinster cousins Jane and Mary Parminter


returned from their grand tour of Europe in the late
18th century there was just one thing left to be done:
build a property in which to display the wondrous things
they had brought home with them. The result was A La
Ronde; with its diamond windows, triangular closets
and an astonishing 20 rooms, filled with everything and
anything, from a feather frieze to the celebrated shell
gallery, embellished with 25,000 specimens. The houses
structure was said to have been inspired by the Basilica
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 37

Little Britain
of San Vitale at Ravenna but its not difficult to see how
else their European sojourn had affected its design. A la
Ronde may look like the whimsy of two eccentrics but
the Parminter cousins were no fools. Their house was
designed to make the most of every scrap of daylight,
enabling them to follow the sun forever, round and
round their home.
Tel: 01395 265 514; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/a-la-ronde

Below: The Swiss


Cottage, Isle of Wight
reopened in spring
2014 after a 1.65m
conservation project;
Clouds Hill, isolated
home of TE Lawrence

THE HOMEWOOD

20TH-CENTURY MODERNIST HOUSE


AND GARDEN

PORTSMOUTH ROAD, ESHER, SURREY KT10 9JL

Patrick Gwynne was just 24 when he designed the


building that was to replace the rambling Victorian
house that stood on the original site of The Homewood.
Built for his parents, the five-bedroomed house became
his home and he lived there until his death in 2003,

when it passed to the National Trust. Set in seven acres


of expertly-planted garden, The Homewood contains a
stunning collection of Modernist furniture including a
Charles Eames lounge chair and ottoman, a desk and
side table with magazine racks designed by Gwynne
himself and a pencil drawing by the Vorticist artist Henri
Gaudier-Brzeska. None of it was for show; Gwynne
adored entertaining and fully intended his home
should be shared with others, during his life and after.
At 76 years old, the building remains a monument to
modernity and elegance. Entry by pre-booking only.
Tel: 01372 476 424; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/
homewood

THE BIRMINGHAM
BACK-TO-BACKS
WORKING-CLASS DWELLINGS

55-63 HURST STREET/50-54 INGE STREET,


BIRMINGHAM B5 4TE

Ever since opening to the public in 2004, this little


glimpse of 19th- and 20th-century working-class life has
entranced all-comers. Each of the properties that make
up the Court 15 site is furnished to represent a different
era, 1840s to 1970s. You are invited to contemplate
the lives of those who played in the courtyard, shared
the primitive toilet facilities and who papered their
walls with an amazing 140 patterns over the years;
from locksmiths and bell-hangers and even a glass-eye
maker. That families of 10 could exist in these minuscule
dwellings is incredible; that they were occupied as
shops and homes until 2002 is surprising, but the way
they evaded the citys slum-clearing zeal is little short
of miraculous. And just to prove that the olden days
werent all grim, theres even a period sweet shop selling
nostalgic candies. Entry by pre-booking the guided tour.
Tel: 0121 666 7671; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/
birmingham-back-to-backs

RUSHTON TRIANGULAR
LODGE
ELIZABETHAN FOLLY

RUSHTON, KETTERING, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE NN14 1RP

Sir Thomas Tresham didnt let a little thing like a 15year prison sentence for being a Catholic and the
subsequent conviction of his son as a Gunpowder Plotter
to confound him. On his release in 1593 the doughty
knight designed a folly to proclaim his faith with every
brick. Rushton has three sides, each wall is 33ft long,
with three triangular windows and three gargoyles,
topped off with three triangular obelisks. Three floors,
three Latin texts (each with 33 letters) run around the
structure while dates carved on the building could refer
to significant times in Treshams life. Its been pointed
out they are also divisible by three and that when one
is subtracted from the other they give the ages at which
Jesus and the Virgin Mary were supposed to have died.
As a 3D puzzle, Treshams folly is hard to beat.
Tel: 01536 710 761; www.english-heritage.org.uk
38 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

Clockwise from top: A


la Ronde shows off the
creativity of its former
owners; the humble
Birmingham back-tobacks; nd Modernism
at The Homewood

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 39

Little Britain

Clockwise from top


left: Railway pioneer
George Stephenson's
birthplace cottage;
Mendips kitchen where
John Lennon's Aunt Mimi
would cook his favourite
egg and chips; Ty Mawr
Wybrnant, farmhouse of
Bishop William Morgan

40 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

TY MAWR WYBRNANT
CHILDHOOD HOME OF THE MAN WHO
TRANSLATED THE BIBLE INTO WELSH

PENMACHNO, BETWS-Y-COED, CONWY LL25 0HJ

With its uncompromising stone walls, glowering


windows and tiny footprint, Ty Mawr was never going to
make it onto the front of a chocolate box. Its wild beauty
comes from two things; firstly, its preservation as an
example of 16th-century life before running water, even,
was commonplace in ordinary homes. But Ty Mawr
also draws on its importance as the birthplace of Bishop
William Morgan, the tenant farmers son who rose to
study at Cambridge University and who translated
the Old Testament of the Bible into Welsh, so that his
countrymen could read the holy words in their own
tongue. Now this ancient building houses a collection
of Bibles printed in nearly 100 languages. Outside
are woodland walks where visitors can soak up the
atmosphere that inspired this Welsh language hero.
Tel: 01690 760 213; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/
ty-mawr-wybrnant

MENDIPS AND
20 FORTHLIN ROAD

ALAMY; NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/DAVID GARNER, DENNIS GILBERT, STUART COX, ARNHEL DE SERRA, GEOFFREY FROSH; ENGLISH HERITAGE; JIM HOLDEN

LIVERPOOL HOMES OF JOHN LENNON


AND PAUL MCCARTNEY

MENDIPS, 251 MENLOVE AVENUE, WOOLTON L25 7SA;


20 FORTHLIN ROAD, ALLERTON L24 1YP

Just as you cannot separate Lennon from McCartney,


so it would be impossible to choose between Mendips
and Forthlin Road. Its over half a century since both
songwriters departed their modest suburban homes. But
the chance to step back in time to the exact place where
Lennon and McCartney composed I Saw Her Standing
There, to the bedroom where John played guitar and
dreamed of being a rock star, and the sitting room
where Paul played with his younger brother, Mike, are
irresistible. Millions of Brits have grown up in homes like
these and will delight in the time-capsule decor; straightbacked, three-piece suites, heavily patterned carpet
and an atmosphere of intense respectability. Among
the treasures on display in Forthlin Road are original
family photographs by Mike McCartney, but the greatest
experience of all in both properties is just being there.
Entry by pre-booked National Trust guided tour only.
Tel: 0844 800 4791; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/beatles

SANDHAM
MEMORIAL CHAPEL

HOME TO EPIC MURALS BY WAR


ARTIST STANLEY SPENCER
HARTS LANE, BURGHCLERE, NEWBURY,
HAMPSHIRE RG20 9JT

Broadcaster Jon Snow described it as Britains answer


to the Sistine Chapel and one glance at Sir Stanley
Spencers haunting works make it hard to disagree.
Sandhams solemn, red-brick facade belies its interior,

painted by Spencer to honour the forgotten dead of the


First World War who were not remembered on official
memorials. Spencer served as an orderly with the Royal
Army Medical Corps and his experiences inform the 19
paintings, including a breathtaking Resurrection scene
behind the altar, where soldiers clamber from their
graves and bear their white crosses to a distant Christ.
Its said that when Spencer was first commissioned to
paint the chapel, constructed in memory of a fallen First
World War officer, he announced: What ho, Giotto
and it does appear to have been modelled on the Arena
Chapel in Padua. However the subject matter and the
tranquil setting, with its orchard and flower meadow,
make it the most English of destinations.
Tel: 01635 278 394; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/
sandham-memorial-chapel

10

Above: Reopened to the


public in August 2014
following conservation
work, Sandham
Memorial Chapel
houses masterpieces by
First World War artist Sir
Stanley Spencer

GEORGE
STEPHENSON'S
BIRTHPLACE

BIRTHPLACE OF THE RAILWAY PIONEER


WYLAM, NORTHUMBERLAND NE41 8BP

What shaped the life of the man who is regarded as


the father of the public railway system? Certainly his
early life was tough, one of a mining family who lived,
slept and played in just one room of the small cottage,
now preserved and including various Stephenson
memorabilia. Visitors are invited to step back to 1781,
the year of his birth and into what must be one of the
smallest museums in the land; just the single room. But
the cottage is also home to a popular and thriving cafe
that exists to service the needs of the visitors who are
walking or cycling the Wylam Wagonway and taking in
the beauty of the River Tyne. And they are encouraged
to go further, searching out all the local places connected
to this brilliant, diligent man, who also invented the
miners safety lamp.
Tel: 01207 541 820; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/
george-stephensons-birthplace
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 41

Britains Great Journeys

The idyllic village of


Bathampton on the
south bank of the Avon

Cruise along the


Kennet & Avon Canal
Where: Bath to Devizes
Distance: 22 miles (and 43 locks)
Duration: About two days longer if you stop to look at all the sights

ur journey begins at the


historic city of Bath, where the
Kennet and Avon Canal leaves
the River Avon Navigation.
However, before heading eastwards along
the canal, we start with an absolute must
for anyone visiting the city by water. Just
before the point where the river meets the
canal theres a short dead-end length of the
Avon that leads into the heart of the city.
Having taken the diversion, we cruise right
up to the Pulteney Weir, in full view of
42 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

the citys famous Pulteney Bridge, Parade


Gardens and the Rec, Bath Rugby clubs
famous stadium, before turning round and
returning to the junction. Here, a sharp left
turn takes us into the bottom lock of the
Widcombe Flight and the start of our trip
along this superlative stretch of the canal.
Although there used to be seven locks in
Widcombe, there are now only six. Back
in the 1970s when a new road was being
built that needed to cross the canal, two
of the locks were combined into one new

one to make the job easier. The result was


the cavernous Bath Deep Lock one of the
deepest on the entire canal system, which
raises us almost 20ft. As the locks lift us
up the valley side, there are splendid views
across the city.
With the locks safely negotiated, two short
tunnels take the canal on through Sydney
Gardens: the impressive Georgian Cleveland
House which stands directly above one
tunnel entrance was once the canal company
headquarters. Then Bath is left behind as we
cruise eastwards along the hillside through
Bathampton, with an assortment of moored
houseboats for company and a couple
of swing-bridges to provide some gentle
exercise for our crew.
The hills close in and the wooded
valley narrows as we enter one of the
most attractive parts of the route, through
Limpley Stoke and Avoncliff. Twice, the
canal turns an abrupt corner and launches
out across the river on the ne Dundas
and Avoncliff aqueducts, both built in the
characteristic local Bath stone.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

ALAMY

Cost: AngloWelsh
Narrowboat Holidays
has a selection of
boats available for rst
time holiday-makers
as well as seasoned
regulars. Weekly
breaks start from 660
to 1,975 per week. Tel:
0117 304 1122; www.
anglowelsh.co.uk
Contact: www.
canalrivertrust.org.uk

Avoncliff Aqueduct is accompanied by the


Cross Guns canalside pub, but apart from
that its a quiet, secluded route with little to
remind us of the outside world apart from
the occasional train passing on the nearby
railway line. The valley opens out again as
we arrive at Bradford-on-Avon, an attractive
old town and a handy stopping-place for
boaters with its shops and pubs. We also
reach the rst lock since we left Bath; the
wharf area around the lock is popular with
local people so were assured of an audience
as we pass through.
Quiet, open countryside characterises
the canal as it continues eastwards, skirting
the north edge of Trowbridge and passing

Baths famous sights the


Pump Room, the Roman
Baths, the Royal Crescent and
the Abbey are within easy
walking distance of the canal.
And there are other less
well-known attractions, such
as the Herschel Astronomy
Museum, the Jane Austen
Centre and Postal Museum.
Just a few miles further
east the canal passes
Claverton Pumping Station,
open to the public and in
operation on occasional
weekends in summer.
Dundas and Avoncliff
aqueducts are splendid
structures well worth
stopping to look at, and on
the approach to Bradford on
Avon the canal passes the
Great Tithe Barn.
Built in the 14th century and
one of the best examples in
the country, it is part of Barton
medieval farm which is open
to the public. Bradford is a
ne old town on the Avon
and its Saxon church is one of
Englands best-preserved.
Devizes is an old country
market town with many
attractions not least the
ight of 29 locks by which the
canal arrives in the town. The
Kennet & Avon Canal Trust
runs a shop and museum on
the wharf, and for real ale
lovers Wadworths Brewery
makes its presence felt, with
the companys traditional
horse-drawn drays still used.

Hilperton and Staverton


most impressive. They begin
Clockwise from top left:
Devizes Wharf; the Kennet
villages. Semington is a pretty
gently enough, but after weve
& Avon can be accessed at
village, which was where the
climbed the rst half dozen we
Bath; a gentle and verdant
Wilts & Berks Canal used to
catch sight of the main series of
curve of the canal
branch north eastwards for
16 locks marching up the hillside
Swindon and the River Thames. It closed
at Caen Hill, in close succession with barely
a century ago, but theres a campaign to
a boats length between them. The nal six
reopen it, so perhaps Semington will one day locks are more spread out, but we breathe a
be an important junction once again.
sigh of relief on arriving at Devizes Wharf
The two Semington Locks are followed by in the knowledge that its another 15 miles
a ight of ve (accompanied by a waterside
before well have to push a lock-gate or wind
pub) at Seend but these are just a hint
a paddle again.
of what is to come. By Lower Foxhangers
This is where we end our journey, tied up
Bridge we reach the rst of the 29 locks
at the historic wharf by the canal museum,
leading up to Devizes the second longest
at the heart of the historic market town of
ight of locks in the country, and by far the
Devizes in Wiltshire.
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 43

Blackpool Tower,
1929, captured by the
daredevil Aerolms crew
Opposite: Trafc chaos
of motorised and
horsedrawn vehicles on
Tower Bridge, 1929
44 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

ykss
limit
The

the

These days were used to seeing


beautiful aerial images of Britain, but
the standard was set by the Aerolms
Collection, now part of the English
Heritage Archive, which documented
the changing face of the nation
during the 20th century
WORDS JACK WATKINS

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 45

I
Aerofilms

Right: A snapshot of
Aerolms cofounder
Claude Friese-Greene
with his lm camera,
July 1919

n 1919, Claude Friese-Greene, son of the pioneer


cinematographer, took to the skies with a camera. The
resultant film Across England in an Aeroplane showed
the photographer and his pilot cheerfully gliding over
the touristic delights of Torquay seafront and Exeter
Cathedral in a fragile, wind-buffeted biplane, before
losing their map in mid-air and veering off into the
mist to emerge over bleakest Dartmoor. Their escapade
ultimately ended with a distinctly bumpy landing.
Friese-Greene was working for the new company
Aerofilms, formed that same year, to specialise in the
infant craft of producing aerial photography and film
footage, and its fitting that a five-minute clip from
Across England is part of an exhibition of the Aerofilms
Collection showing now until March 2015 at the RAF
Museum in North London. Its jaunty, comedic and
carefree tone seems to serve as a motif for the bold and
cheeky spirit which lay behind the entire enterprise.
Between 1919 and the early 21st century, Aerofilms
amassed 1.26m negatives and over 2,000 photograph
albums. Although taken for commercial and practical
reasons, today they amount to a unique historic
documentation, via low-altitude photography, of the
changing face of Britain in the 20th century.
In 2007, the Aerofilms Collection was acquired by
English Heritage, which immediately embarked on
a Britain from Above project to preserve the oldest
and most valuable photographs in the archive, namely
those dating from 1919 to 1953, scanning them into
digital format and making them publicly available
online. Meanwhile, an absorbing new book Aerofilms:
A History of Britain From Above has been published by
the organisation. Beautifully written and illustrated, it
reveals how much the companys approach owed to the
daredevil sense of adventure and rule bending of the
early days of air flight and the exploits of the First World
War fighter aces.
The co-founders of Aerofilms were Claude GrahameWhite and Francis Lewis Wills. Graham-White was one
of Britains first aviation celebrities. As well as being
movie-star handsome, he was an inveterate self-publicist,
with an unfailing eye for a photo opportunity. Hed
made his first solo flight without having taken a single
lesson, and been immediately reprimanded by Louis
Bleriot for doing so. As the first Briton to receive a
pilots licence, hed also made the first ever night flight
(London to Manchester, in 1910), and given a suitably
impressed HG Wells his first experience of air travel. He
even had the audacity to fly along Executive Avenue in
Washington DC and land his craft right outside the gates
of the White House.
In 1911, Graham-White had set up the London Flying
Club at Hendon airfield, giving lessons to those wanting
to fly mono and biplanes, and staging spectacular aerial
derbys which rapidly became part of the summer social

46 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

calendar. The aerodrome was used to train pilots during


the First World War, during which Graham-White also
became involved in aircraft production on the site. But
when the end of hostilities brought a scaling back in
government interest in aircraft manufacture, he and his
business partner, the more serious-minded Wills, hit
upon the idea of producing aerial photographs for the
mass market.
Both men had served as pilots in the War, during
which a primitive form of air photography had been
used for reconnaissance purposes. Now in peacetime,
the two entrepreneurs saw that the availability of
redundant airmen, surplus aeroplanes and cameras
offered them a unique business opportunity. From small
beginnings Aerofilms initial office was a suite at
the London Flying Club, with the detailed but delicate
and breakable 5x4 inch glass negatives exposed in the
bathroom-cum-darkroom 2,332 images were exposed
in their first full year in business. There is no limit, ran
a typically upbeat advertising slogan, to the possibilities
of the unusual aerial photograph.
The early pictures back up that assertion. An airborne
perspective brought out the grandeur, as never seen
before, of the setting of Blenheim Palace, Sir John
Vanbrughs mighty Baroque edifice shown at the bottom
of a long elm-lined avenue, with a bridge in the middle
crossing Lancelot Capability Browns artificial lake.
Liverpools Three Graces the Royal Liver, Cunard and
Port of Liverpool buildings typically viewed at boat
level, seemed all the more serenely heroic when captured
from the air, as the ant-like figures of passengers
streamed off the Mersey ferries. An Aerofilms
photographer was even there to capture a vehicular pile-

Clockwise from top:


The Crystal Palace was
erected in Hyde Park
in 1851, dismantled
in 1854 and rebuilt at
Penge (above ) in South
East London; Claude
Grahame-White was
an aviation celebrity, a
natural in the skies and
Aerolms cofounder;
Francis Lewis Wills was
the driving force behind
the business

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 47

Discover and explore


a hidden industry

The Lemon Tree Coffee House


Craft studios and Willow Products Shop
Guided Tours
Outside Classroom
Unique Basket Museum
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TR AY
ENOND DAY PM
EE N M TUR 5:00
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www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk

Aerofilms

up on Londons Tower Bridge in 1929, at a time when


horses and carts still formed part of the everyday traffic.
Particularly fascinating for the modern viewer are
Aerofilms images of places that are no more. One photo
captures the almost unbelievably large scale of Crystal
Palace, for instance, eight years before the structure,
once described as a blazing arch of lucid glass went up
in flames in 1936.
Many people lamented the demolition of the old
Wembleys Twin Tower entrance in 2003, and a 1924
photo is a fond reminder of the old stadium not long after
its completion as part of the British Empire Exhibition
in 1924. In those days, it was hailed as an arena without
comparison.
Many Aerofilms pilots were ex-fighter aces from
the First World War, and the company traded on their
glamorous reputations. They advertised their ability to
stage special aerial stunts, for instance, recreating dog
fights and setting fire to planes in mid-air, with the
pilot leaping out and parachuting to safety. One of the
most reproduced of the companys shots shows pilot

Martin Hearn known


to perform the loop-theloop without a harness
demonstrating wingwalking during a Flying
Circus in 1932.
Many of the serious photos must also have involved
an immense element of risk in their realisation at a time
when understanding of navigation was still developing.
How perilously close, for instance, the Aerofilms aviator
must have circled around the spire of Blackpool Tower
in 1929, to allow the photographer to shoot his picture
from such a thrilling vantage point. Sometimes the
gung-ho spirit backfired, and forced landings were not
uncommon. Several times, Aerofilms crewmen ended
up in court for endangering public safety by flying too
low. They paid scant attention to the judges warnings
though, and were still getting up to their old tricks while
taking pictures of the Festival of Britain era at South
Bank, in the early 1950s.
Its tempting to slip into misty-eyed nostalgia for
a gentler, more innocent age when looking at these
pictures. A fine image of Buckingham Palace and the
Queen Victoria Memorial, achieved in 1921, would
not be permissible today because of flight restrictions.
But Aerofilms didnt regard themselves as backwardlooking. They were at the forefront of photographic

From top left: Wingwalker Martin Hearn, a


star of aviation pioneer
Sir Alan Cobhams
Flying Circus on one of
his National Aviation
Days, 1932-35; St Pauls
Cathedral, as captured
in the 1920s, showing the
grime darkened dome

CHANGE ON THE HORIZON


See how Londons cityscape namely 17th-century St Pauls Cathedral has altered since the dawn of aerial photography
The colossal dome of St Pauls
Cathedral is still a central
attraction of the prospect of
London from Parliament Hill, on
Hampstead Heath. The spot is
one of the capitals nest viewing
points, not far from Hendon.
But the eye of modern visitors
is increasingly diverted by the
Shard, which looms menacingly
behind Sir Christopher Wrens

masterpiece, and an advancing


army of oversized modern
towers. So much, to the chagrin
of conservationists and anyone
with an eye for aesthetics, has
changed in the space of just a
few decades.
A series of Aerolms images of
the cathedral taken in the 1920s
show how it once dominated
the scene. In fact, looked at from

above, its monolithic qualities


seem even more apparent. A
closer look, however, also reveals
a building in serious need of a
clean-up. Centuries of soot had
blackened the stonework, and
the piers supporting the 65,000
ton dome were in need of urgent
repair. From 1925 to 1930, the
cathedral had to be partially
closed for restoration work.

The Aerolms photographer


was back in 1947, this time to
capture the seemingly unharmed
cathedral still looming proudly
above a scene of urban
devastation in the aftermath
of the Second World War. The
Aerolms image projected St
Pauls as a source of national
inspiration as the process of
rebuilding Britain began.

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 49

Aerofilms
technological innovations of the time, with Francis Wills,
who remained managing director of the company until
1958, ensuring it was one of the market leaders in the
making of maps using aerial photography.
One of the prime exhibits in the exhibition at the RAF
Museum, alongside early hand-held cameras, is an A5
Stereo Autograph, an immense and revolutionary piece
of equipment, sourced by Wills on a trip to Switzerland
in 1938. Its magnification and measurement accuracy
of images taken by Aerofilms photographers meant that
their output was once again utilised by the Air Ministry
for intelligence purposes during the Second World War.
Aerofilms never lost its interest in the future, from
the Art Deco Hoover factory, gleaming sleekly on the
outskirts of London in the early 1930s, to the estates
of box-like houses and the belching pylons of the
nationalised industries of the post-war period.
Ultimately, though, as a commercial concern, it was
always on the lookout for the picturesque postcard-type
image, and it is these to which the eye after all this time
is inevitably drawn. The images of Buckingham Palace,
Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Tower Bridge and
St Pauls Cathedral helped shape the image that British
tourism still projects today. Those of a more Arcadian
nature, as the authors of Aerofilms: A History of Britain
From Above describe it, reflect a land which seems

From top: Buckingham


Palace was not off
limits to Aerolms, 1928;
postcard worthy shot
of The Needles, Isle of
Wight, 1949; Londons
South Bank Festival of
Britain site, 1951. It was
designed to raise the
nations spirits post war

Aerofilms: A History of Britain From Above by James


Crawford, Katy Whitaker and Allan Williams, is
published by English Heritage, 25. Images from the
Aerofilms Collection can be viewed at
www.britainfromabove.org.uk
The Aerofilms exhibition runs until 31
March 2015 at RAF Museum London,
Grahame Park Way NW9 5LL. Tel: 020
8205 2266. www.rafmuseum.org.uk
50 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

ENGLISH HERITAGE/BRITAIN FROM ABOVE

instantly familiar and comforting, yet at the same time


can feel achingly distant.
Its fitting too, that the Aerofilms exhibition should be
hosted at Hendon, where the Watch Office and some of
the hangars of Graham-Whites aerodrome are still used
for exhibition purposes. The surrounding landscape of
one-time fields is now humming with new development.
Graham-White, always with an eye on the next business
opportunity, probably wouldnt have minded that and
we, at least, have the legacy of his photographers work
to remind us of the way things were.

The Bank of England was


founded to promote the
public good and benet
of our people in 1694
52 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

The Old Lady of


Threadneedle Street
The Bank of England might seem like an unlikely visitor attraction, but
an afternoon spent at its museum reveals its unique place within
the history of the City of London, not to mention its important role
in shaping our national nances since 1694
WORDS ANTHONY LAMBERT

HE CITY OF LONDON HAS SERVED AS THE CAPITALS

financial district for centuries, but it is one of its oldest


institutions, the Bank of England, that continues to
have more direct influence over the UKs finances
than any other. In fact, modern life without a central,
national bank is unimaginable. The current Canadian Governor of
the Bank of England, Mark Carney, is on television and radio news
almost weekly, and the financial levers at his disposal, including
setting the base interest rate and issuing banknotes, affect everyone.
Since its creation, the Bank of England has provided the model
on which most modern central banks have been based. Yet when it
came into being in 1694, it was seen as such a temporary expedient
that it was almost 40 years before it had its own premises.
As recent years have demonstrated, central banks are inextricably
linked with crises their role is to try to prevent them, and deal
with them when they happen and the Bank of Englands origins
also lay in a crisis. For much of the 17th century there was periodic
talk of the need for an institution along the lines of the Amsterdam
Wisselbank, which was founded in 1609, creating the notion of

bank money to augment coinage and increase liquidity. Observers


admired its success in lending to the city of Amsterdam and province
of Holland, as well as oiling trade through the Dutch East India
Company. During the Civil War in England, some argued that a
bank was required that would be safe from royal confiscation.
With the Glorious Revolution of 1688 when William III and Mary
were offered the throne, England gained a more stable political
environment than it had known for almost a century. Yet even
before William and Mary had been crowned at Westminster Abbey,
the War of the Grand Alliance to contain the territorial ambitions
of Louis XIV of France had begun. Williams annual revenue was
a little over 2m, but by 1694 he was spending 2 million on the
army alone. As Sir William Petty had asked in 1682, what remedy is
there if we have too little money? We must erect a bank.
Ironically the man credited with founding the Bank of England,
William Paterson, was a Scot, while the founder of the Bank of
Scotland in 1695, John Holland, was English. Paterson proposed
raising 1.2m by charging the government eight per cent interest
with the condition that subscribers were incorporated as a joint-stock
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 53

Bank of England Museum

company with the title Bank of England. There was to be


no time limit for repayment and interest would be paid
in perpetuity, and so the idea of a national debt came
into being.

OT EVERYONE ENTHUSIASTICALLY

embraced the proposal. During the 17th


century the goldsmiths had used their
strongrooms to store cash and valuables
for clients and had begun to provide
basic banking functions, lending such large sums to the
Crown that in 1672 Charles II could not afford to repay
loans and defaulted for a year. They feared the Bank of
England might usurp some of their profitable activities.
But Patersons scheme was an immediate success:
300,000 was raised on the first day and the full sum
within a fortnight.
The Bank opened on 30 July 1694 with 19 staff in
a rented part of the Mercers Hall in Cheapside, soon
moving to the Hall of the Grocers Company in Poultry
where the Bank remained until 1734. An early decision
was the choice of Britannia seated upon and looking at a
pile of money as the subject of the Banks seal.
Besides being seen as the governments banker,
the Bank of England carried out private commercial
transactions, taking deposits of coin and making
payments on instruction. Attempts were made to set up
banks that rivalled the Bank of Englands relationship
with government, but these were ended by the 1709
Bank of England Act, which made it unlawful for
companies or more than six people to set up a bank and
issue notes. Provincial country bankers were permitted.
54 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

However, the burden of the national debt encouraged


the formation in 1711 of the South Sea Company,
intended to consolidate the debt and reduce its cost.
The attraction for investors was the monopoly of trade
with South America granted to the company, but since
Britain was embroiled in the War of Spanish Succession
and Spain controlled most of South America there
was little prospect of profitable trade. Investors were
seized by the same kind of irrationality that fuelled the
earlier tulip mania or later railway mania, causing the
share price to rise from 100 in January 1720 to over

CITY LIGHTS
Londons old nancial district, nicknamed the Square Mile,

MANSION HOUSE

Located directly opposite the Bank


of England, Mansion House is the
home and ofce of the Lord Mayor
of the City of London. As
well as housing a unique
collection of 17th-century
paintings from
Hollands Golden
Age, Mansion
House (right)
boasts many ne

rooms including the Egyptian Hall


and the Salon. Lit by a stunning row
of crystal chandeliers. Tours of the
art collection every Tuesday at 2pm.

GUILDHALL
COMPLEX

A short walk from the


Bank of England lies the
Guildhall complex,
comprising the
Guildhall itself, the

1,000 that summer. It collapsed in August


and hundreds of investors were ruined.
An enquiry uncovered corruption and
insider trading, but the fiasco strengthened
the Bank of England in its position as the
governments banker.

A
THE BANK OPENED
ON 30 JULY 1694
WITH 19 STAFF IN
A RENTED PART OF
MERCERS HALL

From far left: Visitors


trace the story of the
Bank; playtime for all
beneath the Banks
domed ceiling; take a
closer look at banknotes
past and present

NY PROSPECT OF THE BANK BEING A

temporary expedient had vanished and by


1730 it was employing 100 clerks, taxing
the capacity of the Grocers Company
accommodation. For its first building, the
Bank appointed an architect so obscure that there is
uncertainty over his dates; George Sampson designed
what was described as a large townhouse with a grand
style of Palladian simplicity on Threadneedle Street.
It occupied one-fifth of the footprint of todays Bank in
buildings created successively by Robert Taylor, John
Soane and Herbert Baker.
The clerks who moved to the new premises were
paid 50 a year, as they had been in 1694 and would
be until the 1760s, but they enjoyed a generous number
of holidays: in 1761 they had 47 days leave, and not
until 1834 was the decision taken to stop observing
over 30 saints days and reducing them to just four. The
name Bank Holidays was adopted by Sir John Lubbock

has many other historic places of interest worth a visit


Guildhall Art Gallery, Roman
amphitheatre, Clockmakers
Museum and City Business Library.
The present Guildhall (right) was
built in 1411 and, having survived
both the Great Fire of London
and the Blitz, it is the Citys
only surviving secular
stone structure dating
from before 1666. When
standing in the square,
look out for the curved

black outline that marks the shape


of the Roman amphitheatre below
the paving (accessible through
the art gallery). The Great Hall
is the third largest civic hall in
England, where royalty and
state visitors have been
entertained down the
centuries. It has been the
setting for famous state
trials, including that of
Lady Jane Grey in 1553.

ST STEPHENS
WALBROOK

A beautiful church with elaborate


coffered dome built by Christopher
Wren following the Great Fire of
London in 1666.

WALK AROUND
THE LANES
In the heart of the
old nancial district
are the Lombard

Street lanes which house tuckedaway churches, pubs and cafs.


It provides a lovely break from the
Citys main thoroughfares.

ROYAL EXCHANGE

This historic structure (left)


offers a luxury retail
experience, with the vast
Grand Caf at its centre.
Visit www.cityof
london.gov.uk

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 55

Bank of England Museum


From top: Moneyin championing the 1871 Act
handling through the
establishing statutory holidays
ages is surprisingly
for all.
entertaining; First World
War exhibition; local
The impact of the Bank of
bomb damage in 1941
England on the surrounding
area was and remains immense:
at a time of messengers scurrying between banks,
it was desirable to be located close to the epicentre.
Consequently many clearing banks built their
headquarters or major branches around the Bank,
and they were built to impress. Some of these grand
buildings have found new uses as hotels, restaurants and
shopping centres (see Planning Your Visit).

Y 1776 ADAM SMITH COULD WRITE IN THE

PLANNING
YOUR VISIT
Getting there: Bank
Underground station
(on the Central, DLR,
Northern and Waterloo
& City lines) is a veminute walk away.
Where to stay:

Threadneedles Hotel
is in the fomer head
ofces of the Midland
Bank, a couple of
minutes walk from
the Bank. Tel: 020
7657 8080. www.
hotelthread
needles.co.uk
Where to eat: The
restaurant, 1 Lombard
Street, is in a listed
former bank building.
There is a brasserie
and 1776 dining
room with a la carte
European dishes.
Open weekdays 7.309.30am, 11am-11pm.
Tel: 020 7929 6611.
www.1lombard
street.com
Dont miss: Testing
your strength by trying
to lift a solid gold bar.
More information:

Bank of England
Museum, entrance in
Bartholomew Lane,
EC2R 8AH. Open
weekdays 10am-5pm
(last entry 4.45pm).
Free entry. Tel: 020
7601 5545. www.
bankofengland.co.uk/
museum

56 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

For visitors to the capital, the Bank of England is


easily located near to Bank underground station, which
was named after it. The museum, located within the
bank in a reconstruction of John Soanes Bank Stock
Office, is anything but a dry experience: there are plenty
of interactive displays to engage children (and adults),
some based on a nautical metaphor for the Banks role in
keeping the economy on an even keel.
Screens display news bulletins since 2007 to illustrate
the most recent banking crises; these form the context
for the expanded role of the Banks Financial Policy and
Monetary Policy committees, as well as the creation of
the Prudential Regulation Authority. Besides displays of
coins and evolving bank notes over four centuries, there
are human stories about public figures such as Kenneth
Grahame who became the Banks Secretary from the
age of 39 until his retirement in 1908, the year his classic
The Wind in the Willows was published.
If two lessons are learned from a visit to the museum,
it might be that we should do everything to avoid war,
and that todays bankers may benefit from a greater
knowledge of history as many contemporary problems
have salutary precedents. It is the museums hope that
they will not be lost on its 130,000 annual visitors.

WWW.PARISPENNY.COM; THE BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM; ALAMY

Wealth of Nations that the Bank of England


acts, not only as an ordinary bank, but as
a great engine of state. It had become the
institutional centre of the City, helping to
shape the course and pattern of economic development.
Though some continued to challenge its role and the
relationship with government, each renewal of its
charter consolidated its position.
Many crises it has faced have been a consequence
of war. The first reference to the Old Lady of
Threadneedle Street a nickname that has endured
was in a 1797 cartoon by James Gillray depicting Prime
Minister William Pitt picking the coin-filled pockets
of an old lady, a reference to Pitts demands for more
money during the Revolutionary Wars against France.
In the same year, Gillrays cartoon French troops landed
near Fishguard, causing such panic that depositors
besieged the bank and gold reserves fell from 16m to
less than 2m in under a fortnight. Payments in gold
were stopped.
As the governments banker, the strains of the two
world wars were immense and caused the national debt
to reach over 200 per cent of Britains Gross Domestic
Product after the Second World War. To mark the
centenary of the outbreak of the Great War, the Banks
role in the conflict is the subject of a special exhibition at
the Bank of England Museum until March 2015.

slug

A trusted beam of light


shining out to sea is still
the surest way to warn
approaching seafarers
of the coastline

58 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2013 discoverbritainmag.com

slug

BEACON OF HOPE
On the 500th anniversary of Trinity House, the organisation that was established to
protect mariners and ensure safe shipping in UK waters, its the ideal time to discover
the unique history of the iconic lighthouses it continues to safeguard
WORDS JO CAIRD

nce upon a time, the seas were a frightening place, full


of unseen dangers that caused the loss of innumerable
ships and innumerable lives. Then one day a wise king
established a guild of mariners who made our coasts
safe by building a network of beacons whose lights shone bright in
the darkness. For five centuries, these brave men and women have
not faltered in their mission to keep from harm the travellers and
tradesmen who navigate our waters and come to our shores.
Well, thats the fairytale version. The true story of Trinity House,
the organisation that protects mariners and ensures safe shipping in
UK waters, is a little more complicated, but its no less romantic.
The Master, Wardens and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity or
Brotherhood of the most glorious and undivided Trinity and of St
Clement in the Parish of Deptford Strond, in the County of Kent
the organisation now known as Trinity House officially came into
being when it was established by royal charter by Henry VIII in
1514. In actual fact, however, a guild of mariners had likely been in
operation for a number of years before it petitioned the king for a
licence to set up a fraternity in March 1513.
For the first few decades Trinity House concerned itself largely

with regulating pilotage on the Thames ensuring the safe passage


of ships entering and leaving the Port of London and collecting dues
from ship owners to fund its operation. It also supported distressed
seamen and their families at its almshouses, a function that
continues to this day.
It wasnt until 1566 that Trinity Houses remit was officially
extended to enable it to set up beacons, marks, and signs for the
seawhereby the dangers may be avoided and escaped, and ships
the better come into their ports without peril. The guilds first
lighthouse a pair of wooden towers lit by candles was erected
in 1609 near Lowestoft on the Suffolk coast and maintained by
charging passing ships a levy of four pence. There have been
almost unimaginable advances in navigation, optical and illuminant
technology, and automation, but the network of lighthouses that
Trinity House safeguards today still operates according to the same
basic principles as that first life-saving beacon, now long gone.
As the General Lighthouse Authority for England, Wales, the
Channel Islands and Gibraltar, Trinity House looks after major aids
to navigation the ones that if you were coming from America or
from France that you would rely on to get you safely into port, says
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2013 59

Trinity Lighthouses

From top: Hartland Point


Lighthouse, looking out
towards Lundy Island,
North Devon; Eddystone
Lighthouse, 12 miles
off Plymouth, has been
rebuilt four times

Neil Jones, the organisations


records keeper.
Following an extraordinary boom
in lighthouse building in the 19th
century 62 springing up on and
off our shores in 45 years Trinity
House was operating 259 lighthouses
by 1906. Today, there are just 65,
plus nearly 500 buoys and eight
lightvessels (ships which act as
lighthouses in areas unsuitable for a
lighthouse to be built). All are now
automatic and unmanned, though
engineers visit regularly to fix any
problems that occur with the lights
themselves or the equipment that
Trinity House uses to communicate
with them from its operational
headquarters at Harwich in Essex.
Of course these arent the only lights youll see if
you travel around the British Isles. There are many
thousands of local lights too which are under the
jurisdiction of local harbour authorities and hundreds
of lighthouses, buoys and beacons belonging to the other
two general lighthouse authorities, the Commissioners of
Irish Lights and the Northern Lighthouse Board, which

60 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

operates in Scotland.
Nine of Trinity Houses own lighthouses are open
to the public, with a further handful boasting cosy
holiday cottages with arguably the best coastal views in
the country. One, Nash Point, in South Wales, is even
registered for weddings.
Visitor centres and cottages have usually been
converted from keepers houses. Life on what are known
as shore stations was quite comfortable for keepers and
their families. Each keeper every station had three, a
principal keeper and two assistants had his own flat or
cottage, and Trinity House would pay for taxis for the
school run, weekly shop and other essential errands.
Louise Medlicott recalls living with her lighthouse
keeper husband Gordon and their two small children at
Hartland Point Lighthouse in North Devon in the 1970s.
Trinity House looked after you well, she says, but it
was isolated for the children. After four years living in
a flat with a light on top, as the children called it, the
family moved into town and Gordon spent the rest of
his career working mainly off-shore, one month on, one
month off, as was standard practice by that time.
Hartland Point isnt open to the public but you can get
a sense of what life was like in this unusual environment
with a visit to South Stack Lighthouse on Anglesey,
North Wales. Reached by walking down 400 steps cut

From top: Nash Point


Lighthouse on the
Heritage Coastline of the
Vale of Glamorgan, is
licensed for weddings;
South Stack Lighthouse,
North Wales; Lizard
Lighthouse in Cornwall
has six holiday cottages

into the cliff face and crossing a footbridge over typically


roiling seas, the lighthouse is one of the most remote
shore stations youll find. It was built in 1809 but no
bridge was constructed until 1828 before then both
people and supplies arrived at South Stack in a basket
pulled along a hemp cable suspended 21 metres above
the sea.
It cant have been a very comfortable journey, but it
wasnt an unusual one either. Until the construction of
helipads towards the end of the 20th century, the only
way on and off the isolated rock tower lighthouses the
most famous of which is probably the Eddystone, off
Plymouth was to be winched along a line attached to a
bobbing ship or helicopter.
Far easier access is the Lizard, in Cornwall, which
marks the most southerly point of mainland Britain.
The building, two towers with a cottage between them,
dates back to 1751 and was one of the last Trinity House
lighthouses to be automated and demanned, in 1998. As
well as climbing the tower, visitors can see the engines
that used to power the old foghorn and even sound one
themselves. Situated on the South West Coast Path, the
visitor centre makes a fantastic day trip, and there are
holiday cottages and a YHA hostel on site too.
Lizard, like many other Trinity House lighthouses,
was painted in camouflage colours during the Second
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 61

Trinity Lighthouses

From top: Portland


Bill Lighthouse was
automated in 1996;
Longstone Lighthouse,
famed site of the
Forfarshire wreck; South
Stack marks a turbulent
area of the Welsh coast

World War in an attempt to keep it safe from German


bombers. Trinity Houses lights, buoys and ships were
technically neutral in both world wars but the fraternity, which
worked closely with the Admiralty throughout the conflicts,
sometimes dimmed significant lights or placed dummy
lightvessels to deliberately confuse the enemy.
Trinity House was also a crucial participant in the D-Day
landings, its buoys and lightvessels marking a safe route to the
Normandy beaches and its pilots guiding thousands of vessels.
The 115 Trinity House men killed in the war are remembered
at the Merchant Seamens Memorial in Trinity Square Gardens,
opposite Trinity House, the guilds London home.
As well as being a ceremonial
headquarters, this building is where the
fraternitys charitable arm, the Corporation
of Trinity House, is based. The corporation
donates over 3m annually to maritime
charities, including the Sea Cadets and the
Shipwrecked Mariners Society.
The house is open for guided tours on a
handful of days each year, and its grand,
high-ceilinged rooms can be hired for events,
including weddings. Guided tours take place
at the operational headquarters in Harwich
too the Planning Centre, from where
all Trinity House light navigation aids are
controlled, and the buoy yard are particular
tour highlights.

LIGHTHOUSE HEROES
Discover the story of the dramatic rescue made by Grace Darling
and her lighthouse keeper father at Longstone Lighthouse
In 1838, the steamship Forfarshire
went down in a storm in the Farne
Islands off the coast of
Northumberland. Most of the
passengers and crew perished with
the ship, but a few survivors were
washed onto the low rocky island that
had sunk the craft. Spotting them from
their lighthouse home, 22-year-old
Grace Darling and her keeper father
risked their lives by rowing to the
rescue in conditions considered too
rough for the lifeboat to put out from
the mainland. Grace was
immortalised in an 1843 poem by
William Wordsworth and both father
and daughter received the Royal
Humane Society Award for their
actions that night. Longstone
Lighthouse, where they sheltered the
nine survivors for two days until the
storm subsided, is today open as a
62 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

visitor centre. Its accessible as part of


a two-hour boat tour of the Farne
Islands that also includes a 30-minute
tour of the lighthouse and the chance
to stand in Graces tiny bedroom.
Longstone isnt the only Trinity
House lighthouse to witness heroism
of this kind. Many keepers have been
presented with the Royal Humane
Society Award over the years,
including Larry Walker, who jumped
into the sea off Portland Bill to save a
woman attempting to take her own
life in 1990. You can climb the 155 steps
to the top of Portland Bill Lighthouse
and look out to the dangerous spot
in the bay where the woman almost
drowned. You can even talk to the
hero himself Walker works at the
lighthouse as a tour guide these days
and is always happy to share stories
of his time in the service.

GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; TRINITY HOUSE; ROBERT HARDING

The original Trinity House, completed in 1796, was


destroyed in the Blitz but the building was faithfully
reconstructed in 1953. Though a large number of
precious paintings, documents and artefacts were lost
when the house was bombed, much survived, having
been sent out of London before the outbreak of the war.
Among the survivors are portraits of some of the guilds
most important figures, including Anne, Princess Royal,
Trinity Houses current Master; the diarist Samuel Pepys,
Master in 1676 and 1685, and Winston Churchill, an
Elder Brother from 1913 until his death in 1965.
Many more fascinating items from the corporations
collection including some usually on display in the
house are on show at the National Maritime Museum
in Greenwich this year as part of Guiding Lights: 500
Years of Trinity House and Safety at Sea. The exhibition
runs until February 2015.
When the Queen opened the rebuilt Trinity House in
1953 she referred to the guilds members as the Good
Samaritans of the sea. A lot has changed in the six
decades since she spoke those words, and even more
has changed in the 500 years since Trinity House was
established by Henry VIII, but Good Samaritans they
remain. Heres to the next five centuries.

From top: Trinity House


was granted a Royal
Charter by Henry VIII
in 1514; its Court Room
(right) and other elegant
rooms have welcomed
royalty and politicians in
its 200-year history

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 63

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A unique range of gifts made from the ever-decreasing supply of genuine
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famous ships, HMS Victory & Cutty Sark.
From HMS Victory we offer precious pieces of HMS Victory oak (25),
oak wine stoppers (32), oak & copper paper knives & magniers (105)
and oak & copper pens (175).
From Cutty Sark pine, choose from precious pieces (25), wine stoppers
(35), change bowls & wine coasters (55) and bookends (160).
Each unique item comes in a presentation box or tin with a certicate
of provenance. Once this historic material is gone, its gone forever!

Tel: 01925 242111 or visit www.uniquebritishgifts.com

ESSENTIAL

CAMBRIDGESHIRE
PLAN YOUR VISIT WITH OUR COMPREHENSIVE COUNTY GUIDE

68

Why Cambridgeshire?
With historic attractions and
beautiful countryside at every turn,
whats not to love, asks Vicky Sartain

70

Essential experiences:
The top 15 things to do across
the county, from punting on the
River Cam and visiting the home of
horseracing, to ying at IWM Duxford

82

Fact le: Everything you


need to know before leaving
home, including where to stay, where
to eat and when to visit

83

Competition: Win a twonight break for two at the


Hotel du Vin in Cambridge city

76

ALAMY

Cathedral tour:
Scale the heights
of Ely Cathedral
during a guided
tower tour

discoverbritainmag.com AUGUST//SEPTEMBER 2014 67

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire

COUNTY OF CONTRASTS

Welcome to Cambridgeshire, a county famed for its university city


and mystical Fenland landscape, framed by East Anglias big skies
WORDS VICKY SARTAIN

he sprawling county of
Cambridgeshire covers a
wide area, not just in terms
of geography but in variety
of attractions. If you want mountains
youre in the wrong place, but if you love
big skies, glorious sunrises and miles of
windmill-dotted countryside youre in
the right place. Then there are the quaint
towns and villages and the surprise
nds such as Ely Cathedral, a medieval
pilgrimage site, dubbed the ship of the
Fens owing to its vast size and shape.
The local heritage has been beautifully
preserved across the county; the First
and Second World War legacy can be
explored at IWM Duxford, a military
museum in the south of the county.
Further north at Coton is the American
Cemetery & Memorial, the only US
Second World War graveyard in Britain.
Country estates, churches, priories,
68 AUGUST//SEPTEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

watermills and nature reserves fall under


the umbrella of the National Trust and
English Heritage, many telling the stories
of inspiring former owners. Octavia
Hills Birthplace House in Wisbech is a
privately-run visitor attraction revealing
the lifes work of the brilliant social
reformer and co-founder of the National
Trust. At Newmarket the sporting
tradition of the region is revealed in a
town dedicated to the sport of kings,
where racehorses have right of way on
the streets. Finally, the city of Cambridge
welcomes visitors, from home and
abroad being just 50-minutes direct
from London by train. People come for
the architecture and the sense of history
that pervades every street. Rain or shine
queues form for punting excursions
down the River Cam, taking in the golden
college buildings at a relaxed pace.
Visit www.visitcambridge.org

TRAVEL
TIP

ALAMY

Hire a punt
and travel
at your own
pace

Punting on the Cam in


Cambridge is top of the
wishlist of many visitors

discoverbritainmag.com AUGUST//SEPTEMBER 2014 69

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/CLIVE NICHOLS/PAUL HARRIS; IAIN LEWIS/ VISIT ENGLAND/VISITCAMBRIDGE.ORG

[NATURE]

See the wildlife of


Wicken Fen National
Nature Reserve

s the National Trusts very rst


nature reserve, acquired in
1899, this unspoilt wetland
teems with a rich diversity of
life, with over 8,500 species of plants,
birds and dragonies. It has been said that
in diversity terms the reserve is Britains
answer to a tropical rainforest. Human
activity is carefully monitored and the
traditional ways of managing the land
remain. Generations of workers, known as
fenmen, are today helped in their cause by
roving herds of Highland cattle and Konik
ponies the latter a scrubland-grazing
Polish breed brought to the fen specically
to help sustainably manage it. Their dun
coloured coats blend into the reed beds.
Accessed via boardwalk, boat or
cycle-path, the landscape is dotted with
windpumps and quaint workers cottages.
Visitors can learn about the history of the

Below: The two-acre


Victorian gardens
at Peckover can be
explored on free
dedicated tours

fen at a recreated 1930s workshop, where


traditional crafts can be seen in action. For
centuries people would scratch out a living
harvesting sedge and peat, also willow
working and eel-catching.
There is plenty for the active visitor of
course, with cycle routes (and bike hire)
wending routes through the reserve and
neighbouring villages. Wildlife spotting
is more or less mandatory. Hen harriers,
barn owls and bittern can be spied upon
from the nine hides overlooking Sedge
Fen and for birds eye views, climb to the
top of the 10-metre high Tower Hide.
Migrant birds have made Wicken Fen an
over-wintering destination,
with lapwings, wigeon
Right: Navigating the
and teal keeping the cold
waterways of a tranquil
skies alive from autumn.
landscape, Britains
Tel: 01353 720 274; www.
oldest nature reserve
nationaltrust.org.uk

[ STATELY

HOME ]

Experience Quaker
life at Peckover
House, Wisbech

isbech was once a thriving medieval port, with trade


links cemented by its River Nene. The North Brink is
considered the nest brick built Georgian street in
England, the result of prosperity from the merchants
who set up home and shop here. It was home too, to the Peckovers, a
Quaker family whose social contribution included promoting education
and health. Jonathan Peckover bought the house in 1794, opening a
grocery shop in town, which later doubled as
DID YOU KNOW?
a makeshift bank. It seemed more protable
to run a bank full time, which ran at the house Wainman House,
next door to Peckover,
for a century, explains Ben Rickett, visitor
is now open as
services manager. You can see the old tools
elegant holiday
of the trade in propertys Banking Wing.
accommodation,
The gardens are a canvas of colour to enjoy,
newly redecorated in
complete with more than 60 species of roses.
Georgian style.
Tel: 01945 583 463; www.nationaltrust.org.
www.nationaltrust
uk/peckover-house
cottages.co.uk
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 71

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire

[ ACTIVE ]

TAKE A PUNT DOWN


THE CAM, CAMBRIDGE

From top: The Backs,


overlooked by Kings
College Chapel;
punts are also
available to hire

TRAVEL
TIP

72 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

Lane, or the Quayside, off Bridge Street.


In all weathers, eets of punts navigate
The Backs, the stretch that divides parkland
from city. Theres always some lively banter
between boatmen too, as they dodge
throngs of other paddlers and canoeists.
The thrill of a near miss is ever present
as low bridges threaten, or a particularly
crowded area requires the chauffeur to chart
a weaving course through the jam. Modern
and recent heritage feature along the
way, including the wooden Mathematical
Bridge, a 20th-century wooden replica of
the 1749 original; Clare College, a much
photographed 17th-century vision; Kings
College Chapel, with its world-famous 15thcentury gothic architecture; the 17th-century
Wren Library, home to 75,000 books; Bridge
of Sighs, which promises all the beauty of
the Venetian version if only from a distance;
and New Court, a 19th-century addition
to St Johns College. Its elaborate design
has earned it the nickname wedding cake,
owing to its elaborate towers and tiers.
Tel: 01223 359 750; www.scudamores.com

ALAMY; IAIN LEWIS/VISIT CAMBRIDGE

o visit to Cambridge would be


complete without a lazy trip down
the river, preferably on a craft
powered by a willing chauffeur.
Punting has long been a popular pastime,
more so for visitors than locals; the river
the training ground for the student rowing
crews that ply the water in readiness for the
annual university boat race held on the River
Thames. Their svelte boats are of course a
world away from the rather primitive atbottomed boats (punts) which are guided
using a long pole. Many of the oarsmen
and women are students themselves, and
enjoy regaling passengers with tales about
their Oxford rivals, in between pointing
out the places of interest along the route,
as they steer down river. Scudamores
Punting Company was founded in 1910
and a century aoat has only increased its
reputation and presence. There are themed
(bat safari) and special occasion (hen do)
trips but for most customers the 45-minute
chauffeured tour is the rite of passage,
departing from either Granta Place, off Mill

Umbrellas are
provided in
Scudamores
punts!

canal cargo
UK & Continental maps, guides, boating and canal
books, fiction and non-fiction, Canal Boat, Waterways
World, Canal and Rivers Magazines, DVDs, Muddy
Waters books, jigsaws, gifts, Bert and Betty books,
cross-stitch tapestry, models and chandlery.
Call 020 8399 0486
or buy online at

www.canalcargo.co.uk

Kailani is the Award Winning 5 star wide


beam Hotel Boat cruising Southern
Englands waterways
Created to full the growing needs of discerning travellers seeking peace and
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ttings, bedding and linens. Not to mention our delicious catering!
Choose one of our 3 to 6 night breaks on the
Grand Union, Kennet & Avon Canal
or the magnicent River Thames.

Tel: +44 (0) 7447 051558


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Relaxing Hotel Boat Holidays


A holiday on board our wide beam Hotel Boat "Tranquil Rose"
offers you fully serviced accommodation, with good food
freshly prepared each day by our creative chefs. You will be
sharing your holiday with up to seven like minded guests, as
we cruise the River Thames, the Kennet & Avon Canal, the Wey
Navigation, the Grand Union Canal and the Paddington Arm
into the heart of London at Little Venice.
For details of possibly the most relaxing of holidays,
Tel: 07966 248 079
Email: enquiries@tranquilrose.co.uk
www.tranquilrose.co.uk

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire

[ MUSEUM ]

EXPLORE THE
IMPERIAL WAR
MUSEUM DUXFORD

s thoughts remain xed on the past during


the First World War centenary of 2014, its
a ne excuse to visit this historic aireld,
which was built during the war, going on to
become a ghter station for the No 19 Squadron and
their Supermarine Spitres. The bravery of the squadron
proved crucial during the Battle of Britain in 1940 and
the airelds story reects the achievements of aviation
history. At Duxford the visitor can explore the recreated
1940 operations room once staffed by the heroes of
the Second World War; see changing exhibitions and
conservation of historic aircraft in action; follow family

[ STATELY

ALAMY; ELGOODS

HOME ]

Go Georgian at
Wimpole Estate

This Georgian mansion is an example of


old money with ne art, sculpture and
architecture largely original or restored over
the 38-year period of Elsie Bambridges
ownership from 1938. The interiors blend
rened Georgian grandeur with Bambridge
additions subtly woven throughout.
Tel: 01223 206 000; www.nationaltrust.org.
uk/wimpole-estate

Above: Exploring the


collections across
Duxfords mile-long
museum site can be
an all-day affair

trails or book a place on one of the daily taster talks


about a particular aircraft. There are state-of-the-art
exhibition halls, including AirSpace (housing British and
Commonwealth aeroplanes) and American Air Museum
(the largest collection of US historic military aircraft in
Europe) while during Duxfords airshow season, the visitor
can watch aerobatics in the skies above. Duxford is also
home to one of the countrys nest collections of tanks,
military vehicles and artillery through the ages the
kind of boys toys that thrill young and old while also
acknowledging the impact of weapons of war.
Tel: 01223 835 000; www.iwm.org.uk

[ VINEYARD ]

Try English wine


at Chilford Hall

At Chilford Halls vineyard, conditions are


ripe for grape growing. The rst vines
were planted in 1972 and today the Hall is
credited with producing wine characterised
by clean avours and fruity body. Visitors
can see the wine-making process in action,
and perhaps take home a good vintage.
Tel: 01223 895 600;
www.chilfordhall.co.uk

DONT MISS
Avid aviators can
book a sightseeing
ight on a pre-war
Dragon Rapide, an
eight-seater biplane,
soaring over Duxford,
Cambridge, Ely,
Newmarket or London.
Call 01255 473 832
or visit www.classicwings.co.uk

[ FOOD ]

Discover the
origin of Stilton

After much debate it has nally been


acknowledged that the eponymous cheese
was in fact rst produced in the 18th century
in Stilton village by Cooper Thornhill, former
landlord of the local Bell Inn, where you
can still order this king of cheeses. Despite
some dispute between counties, Stilton,
today ofcially lies in Cambridgeshire.
www.stilton.org
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 75

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
[CATHEDRAL]

10

Scale the heights of Ely


Cathedral on a tower tour

Take a tour of this grand cathedral to discover how it became a medieval pilgrimage site, nd
out why it is known as the Ship of the Fens and see the treasures in its Stained Glass Museum

protection, the lantern was encased in 400


any are surprised to nd a vast architectural wonder
From bottom left:
tons of lead and other materials; it is a wonder
in such an unassuming place as Ely. The cathedral was
The Presbytery
that the cathedral hasnt sunk under the load.
founded in AD673 by St Etheldreda, a Saxon virgin
is Early English
The tours aim is to reach the angel panels, a
queen of East Anglia, who ed her marriage to become a nun.
Gothic; Nave ceiling
depicting Ancestry
series of Victorian artworks set just below the
Her life was cut short by the plague in AD679 and it was pure
of Jesus Christ;
Octagon ceiling. This involves ascending 165
chance that led to her canonisation when, 17 years after her
Octagon ceiling
spiral stairs, but be prepared to reschedule if
death, her remains were found to be unspoiled even signs of the
plague had healed. Etheldredas name carried far and wide and Ely the weather is bad as the route leads onto the
roof via a parapet path. Here, the views extend
became a place of pilgrimage; her monastery for monks and nuns
for miles, although its the roof that really captivates.
ourished for well over a century. Despite being
Entering the lantern tower, visitors can appreciate
destroyed by the Vikings in AD869, the building was
DONT MISS
the science behind the invention. The bones of
re-established a century later by the Benedictine
The Stained Glass
Museum housed in the
the structure an octagon secured with huge oak
order. By the 11th century their handiwork was
south triforium of Ely
beams each bear a share of the weight. Closer
embellished by the new Norman power, which saw
Cathedral is the only
inspection reveals grafti on the beams and underside
the cathedral towers soar higher than ever above
one of its kind in the
of the angel panels left by generations of builders
the fen landscape, symbolising power, wealth and
UK solely dedicated to
and conservationists. When Allied aircrews were
prestige. Visitors can today admire the Octagon,
stained glass. Among
stationed locally in the last war, they signed their
the 14th-century oak, lead and stone tower, which
its vivid collections are
names, asking the angels for protection, explains
was constructed following the shock collapse of the
pieces from the 13th
Traci. The panels open to reveal the majesty of the
original square Norman tower in 1322.
century and Arts and
Octagon, its colour and symmetry not called the
Its a unique design, says tour guide Traci
Crafts work. Visit
jewel in the cathedral crown for nothing.
Bosdet. Nowhere else will you nd a medieval
www.stainedglass
Tel: 01353 667 735; www.elycathedral.org
wooden lantern within a stone octagon. For
museum.com

76 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

TRAVEL
TIP

ALAMY

Follow the
Eel Trail to
discover Elys
highlights

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 77

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire

11
T

HOME ]

Enjoy the good life


at Anglesey Abbey

his National Trust property bears the hallmarks of a golden


era of country life, when the great house was something of
a playboy mansion for Lord Fairhaven, who purchased the
dilapidated estate in 1926. Undertaking major refurbishment,
Fairhaven created a home t to entertain his society friends who shared
his interests in horseracing, shooting and other country pursuits. Inside,
guests were privy to the best of 1930s design and luxury blended with
historic elements left over from its days as an Augustinian priory. With
no expense spared, the gardens were reinvigorated complete with
sweeping avenues, classical statuary and something to delight the
senses in all seasons. An 18th-century working watermill in the grounds
still grinds wholemeal our, available to buy.
Lord Fairhaven remained a bachelor but his
legacy was gifting the property to the Trust,
Left: Enjoy the
Abbeys art and
saying that he wanted it to represent an age
antiques and visit
and way of life that was quickly passing.
the Domestic Wing,
Tel: 01223 810 080; www.nationaltrust.org.
newly opened in 2014
uk/anglesey-abbey

[ ICON ]

12

Learn about National Trust


co-founder Octavia Hill at
her birthplace house

amed for her part in the birth of


the National Trust, social reformer
Octavia Hill achieved more than
most in her life. She was born at
7 South Brink, Wisbech in 1838, and the
Grade II listed property today takes visitors
on a journey though her lifes work, from
the political challenges that she met and
her quest to improve life for the poorest
families in the slums of Victorian London,
to her qualities of leadership during an age
when simply being a woman was viewed
as a failing. For over 50 years, Hill battled
tirelessly for the good of others, and has
been hailed the Florence Nightingale of
Victorian housing. Through her dedication,
she founded todays housing associations
and civic societies and fought for green
space around the city, realising how
important it was for health and well-being.
Her birthplace house is an unusual visitor

78 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

attraction. It illustrates both the rened


world that she was born into and the hellish
one in which she spent much of her life. In
the lower reaches of the property, the dark
world of the Victorian slum is revealed as the
route leads through a reconstructed hovel
with mannequins so lifelike in the gloom as
to make you look twice. Here, visitors learn
how unsanitary conditions led to cholera
outbreaks across London, and about bedbug
infestation in homes. The way then leads
refreshingly into the garden, an example of
Hills belief in the outdoor sitting room.
Although Hill was just a toddler when
her family moved from Wisbech to Essex
in 1840, her
birthplace house is
a window into her
Right: Stained glass
extraordinary life.
window of Octavia
Hill at the Birthplace
Tel: 01945 476 358;
House, Wisbech
www.octaviahill.org

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ROBERT MORRIS; ALAMY

[ STATELY

[ HOUSE

MUSEUM ]

WWW.VISITELY.ORG.UK

13
P

Explore Oliver Cromwells


former home in Ely

him for his Catholic sympathies.


olitical hero or regicidal villain, Cromwell still
Civil War was inevitable, dividing
divides opinion nearly 400 years after he took
Parliamentarians from royal supporters
control of England, having signed Charles Is death
in 1642. Cromwell gamely took up arms
warrant in 1649. The son of a country gentleman,
and became a revered military leader
Cromwell was born in April 1599 at Huntingdon, spending
for the cause but his merciless actions
his formative years in Cambridgeshire. In his thirties he
inherited his uncles estate near Ely and was responsible for against Catholics, especially in Scotland
and Ireland will unlikely ever be forgiven.
collecting tithes (taxes) and harvests in aid of the church.
Today, the house doubles as Ely Tourist Information
Cromwell and family moved into one of his newly inherited
Centre, continuing in the spirit of serving the community,
properties, a 13th-century house at St Marys Street, Ely
Cromwell might say. Visitors can follow an
in 1636 and aside from Hampton Court
audio tour through nine principle rooms
Palace this is the only surviving residence
including Kitchen (see the eel pie), Civil War
of the antihero. Here, his Protestant views
From top: Oliver
Cromwells House
Room (chilling battle gear) and Study (where
and concern for the underdog earned
served as an inn in
a life-like Cromwell writes by candlelight).
him the title Lord of the Fens. He publicly
1843 and is now Elys
Tel: 01353 662 062; www.
stood against Charles Is unreasonable
TIC; in the Kitchen
olivercromwellshouse.co.uk
taxes and disregard of parliament, chiding

DID YOU KNOW?


Eels were once
abundant in the
marshland that
surrounded Ely. Today,
only one commercial
eel catcher remains,
trapping his catch the
traditional way in the
Great River Ouse

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 79

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire
TRAVEL
TIP
Wear sturdy
shoes on a
Gallops or
Stud tour

Clockwise: Getting
some fresh air and
exercise out on the
Gallops; hopeful
champions at the
National Stud; visit a
racing yard on a tour

[ SPORT ]

14

Visit the National Stud


and tour the Gallops
in Newmarket

n Newmarket, the horse is king. Thoroughbreds have right of way,


their own equine pavements, trafc light system and, it seems,
monopoly of the town. Their stable yards are tucked in places
where you might expect to nd a garage or garden; their neighing
as common as birdsong. Humans exist to serve them, labouring over
their every need. Yes, horse racing is big business here. Retired jockeys
and stablehands linger not for the daily wage but for the thrill that
hangs in the air. There is anything up to 8,000 horses within a 10-mile
radius of the town, conrms Chris Garibaldi, director of the National
Horseracing Museum, located on Newmarkets high street. Its
cultural heritage dates back to the Stuarts; James I was responsible for
introducing the sport of kings to the town.
Palace House, where Charles II spent many a season, is undergoing
a 15m refurbishment to develop a National Heritage Centre
for Horseracing and Sporting Art. The centre will incorporate a
new museum celebrating horse racing and a national gallery of
80 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

DID YOU KNOW?


For a comprehensive
overview of the
sporting attractions
and heritage of
Newmarket, including
group and individual
bespoke tours,
accommodation, and
forthcoming events
visit www.newmarket
experience.co.uk

British sporting art, and will feature live


thoroughbred horses. The site is due to
open to the public in spring 2016, but in the
meantime, the museum will remain open
throughout 2015 with an exhibition of the
sporting art of the Dukes of Grafton, including
paintings by Stubbs, Wootton and the School of Van Dyck.
Various tours operate from the National Horseracing Museum,
a place lled with every imaginable equine item. Among the most
popular is the Gallops Tour, hosted by a guide who knows the town
inside out, from the location of the oldest stables to the names of
various local trainers.
Out on the gallops training circuit, part of the 3,500 pristine acres
managed by the Jockey Club (the body that sets the standard in British
horseracing and welfare), horses are put through their paces by riders
known in the industry as dungies or would-be jockeys. Newmarkets

15
[ MUSEUM ]

Discover the sport of


kings at the National
Horseracing Museum

ALAMY; JOCKEY CLUB ESTATES LIMITED

British Racing School is a premier venue for those


learning the ropes.
We watch in awe as a cantering string pass yards
ahead of us, kicking up divots as they go, some riders
working hard to try and control their skittish mounts.
The tour continues as we climb back on the minibus,
driving past the late Sir Henry Cecils yard (trainer of
the great Frankel), Animal Health Trust, and on to
visit a working trainers yard where its possible to pet
the stabled horses and nd out about how they are
kept. The tour concludes at Rowley Mile racecourse,
named after the Merry Monarchs favourite horse (Old
Rowley), where we learn more about race-day action.
In the afternoon, its a visit to The National Stud just
outside town where 90-minute minibus tours run from
February to October. New season foals lark about on
spindly legs with their mothers in the nursery paddocks
while the stallions are kept well out of range. The bus
passes through some of the studs 500 acres, letting
passengers see highlights such as the covering barn
where the mares are efciently impregnated with the
hopeful outcome of producing a future champion.
In a paddock is swarthy stallion Dick Turpin, whose
current stud fee is 4,000. With luck his offspring may
one day take their place in the racehorse hall of fame.
www.newmarketexperience.co.uk

ts a transitionary time for the National Horseracing Museum in


Newmarket. Occupying the Victorian Subscription Rooms, where
gamblers of the era would gather for race day, the museum is at
the heart of the racing world. Today, it educates visitors about the
history of racing, its importance to the town, and celebrates the sporting
greats: horses, breeders, jockeys, trainers and owners who have gone
before. Among the biggest even household names in the sport are
the jockeys: the late Steve Donahue, the retired Lester Piggott and the
Italian showman Frankie Dettori; looking at the displays of jockeys
racing colours through the centuries it can be a shock to see how much
size matters. Francis Buckle, a leading jockey of the early 19th century,
weighed just 3st 13lbs and was nicknamed Pocket Hercules for his skill
and character. Gambling is of course part and
parcel and the topic is not shied away from
DID YOU KNOW?
in the dedicated gallery, where the highs and
Justly proud of its
lows are explained. Theres much to see across
history, the Jockey
300 years of racing history: iconic paintings,
Club Rooms next door
memorabilia-lled cabinets, an old fashioned
have been home to
the club since 1750.
stall that was originally built for a local yard in
Its hushed halls and
1901, a taxidermied horse, and the skeleton of
gentile atmosphere
Hyperion, a 20th-century Derby winner whose
are still sought by club
likeness stands guard outside the neighbouring
members who gather
Jockey Club Rooms. The more daring visitor may
to decide on racing
like to take a ride on the racehorse simulator
rules and regulations.
to experience the power of a thoroughbred as
Nowadays, the venue
it gallops along the
also plays host to
home straight.
glamorous functions,
Tel: 01638 667 333;
corporate soires and
e
B
lo
A widew
: range
of memorabilia can
www.nhrm.co.uk
special events
be found within the
present museum

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 81

ESSENTIAL Cambridgeshire

FACT FILE

Everything you need to know to plan your visit to Cambridgeshire

By car, from the south and


London, Cambridge is a short
trip up the M11 motorway. From
the north, the A1 and M1 link
to the A14 dual carriageway
straight to the city, and from the
east and west, the A14 again
takes you to Cambridge. By train,
there are frequent rail services to
Cambridge from London Kings
Cross and Liverpool Street, and
good connections from Scotland
and the North via Peterborough,
and regional services from the
Midlands and East Anglia.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel du Vin
Cambridge
From 175 per night
This Grade II-listed building is
home to 41 timelessly styled
bedrooms and stunning suites;
most include the Hotel du Vins
signature roll-top tubs.
Tel: 0844 736 4253
www.hotelduvin.com
Prospero Homes
Cambridge
From 80 per night
If you prefer self-catering,
look no further than these wellappointed, well-located studio
or two-room ats in the city.
Tel: 01223 651 099
www.prosperohomes.co.uk
Poets House
Ely
From 115 per night
This Grade II-listed property on
St Marys Street in the town
centre is renowned for hospitality
and charm. Views extend to the
great cathedral or over the
hotels beautiful gardens.
Tel: 01353 887 777
www.poetshouse.com

Paddocks House
Near Newmarket
From 129 per night
The former country home of
Lord Byrons sister, this elegant
and tranquil accommodation
offers the perfect luxury escape.
Tel: 01638 593 222
www.paddockshouse.com

WHERE TO EAT

St Johns Chophouse
Cambridge
The food is British, seasonal and
no nonsense in this popular,
family-friendly environment.
Tel: 01223 353 110
www.cambscuisine.com
The Cutter Inn
Ely
This riverside restaurant,
wonderfully situated by the
Great River Ouse, serves quality
traditional British pub food in
stylish surroundings.
Tel: 01353 662 713
www.thecutterinn.co.uk

Autumn: Cambridge Festival of


Ideas is an annual celebration of
the arts, humanities and social
sciences, complete with talks,
exhibitions and activities.
Winter: The Ouse Washes nature
reserve is the largest area of
washland (grazing pasture that
oods) in the UK. Winter sees
the arrival of large numbers and
varieties of migratory birds.

LOCAL INSIGHT

Ofcial guided walking tours are


run by Visit Cambridge Tourism

For countywide visitor


information go to:
www.visitcambridge.org
Newmarket, on the CambsSuffolk border, has a dedicated
visitor attraction site: www.
newmarketexperience.co.uk

SUGGESTED ITINERARY

Stilton village

and the Bell Inn

Octavia Hills

Birthplace,
Peckover House,
Elgoods - Wisbech
Ely Cathedral and
Oliver Cromwells
House, both in Ely

DAY 2
Wicken Fen

Nature Reserve

Wisbech

Anglesey Abbey,

Gardens and Mill

Newmarkets

National
Horseracing
Museum and Stud

Stilton
Ely
Wicken Fen
Nature Reserve
Anglesey
Abbey
Cambridge

WHEN TO GO

82 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

MORE INFORMATION

DAY 1

The Hole in the Wall


Little Wilbraham
This picturesque 16th-century
gastropub, in between
Cambridge and Newmarket,
is run by Masterchef nalist
and chef Alex Rushmer.
Tel: 01223 812 282
www.holeinthewall
cambridge.com

Spring: With its lack of hills,


Cambridgeshire is great cycling
country, so why not hire a bike as
nature bursts into life?
Summer: Enjoy the 40 acres of
Cambridge University Botanic
Garden, which rst opened to
the public in 1846. Nowadays it
opens from April to September.

Service and are the only ones that


take visitors into the colleges.
Avoid all other illegal operators
as they are denied entry into
buildings and known to give
inaccurate historical information.

Newmarket

Wimpole

DAY 3
Wimpole Estate
IWM Duxford
Chilford Hall

vineyard

Cambridge

college tour and


punting

IWM Duxford

Chilford Hall
vineyard

ESSENTIAL CAMBRIDGESHIRE FEATURE BY VICKY SARTAIN

GETTING THERE

COMPETITION

Win

a two-night break at the stylish Hotel du Vin Cambridge in the


centre of the historic city of learning, culture, beauty and many, many bicycles
THE PRIZE

Enjoy a two-night stay for two people, on a bed and breakfast basis, at the
luxury boutique Hotel du Vin in Cambridge.
BY POST: Send your answer and contact details to Hotel du Vin Cambridge Competition,
Discover Britain magazine, Johnson Dellow Ltd, 59-61 High Street, Kings Langley WD4 9HU.
BY EMAIL: Send your answer and contact details to archant@johnsondellow.com with
Discover Britain Hotel du Vin Cambridge Competition in the subject line. Please also
indicate if you prefer not to receive product information.
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Closing date for all entries is 3 November 2014. The prize includes a two-night
stay for two people on a B&B basis. All transport and additional costs are payable by the winner. The
prize is valid for 12 months. Excludes Bank Holidays, Easter, Christmas, and New Year. Booking subject to
availability. No cash alternative. Employees (and relatives) of Archant, Hotel du Vin and associated suppliers
are not eligible to enter. Winners names may be published.

ocated in the centre of the historic city of Cambridge is the


elegant Hotel du Vin. The former University building has been
sympathetically transformed to enhance its many quirky
architectural features from cosy library, private event rooms,
classic French Bistro to atmospheric labyrinth bar.
The Grade II listed building is home to 41 timelessly styled
bedrooms and stunning suites; each with luxurious handsprung
mattresses and fine Egyptian linen, while most include Hotel du
Vins signature deep, roll-top baths. Suites are individually designed;
one even boasts an original open well and brick bread oven, while
another has its very own cave-like private cinema.
As with each Hotel du Vin, from St Andrews to Brighton, Bistro
du Vin is at the heart of the Cambridge hotel. Experience an elegant
and informal setting for lunch and dinner where you can meet,
celebrate or simply pass the time at the classic, French-styled
restaurant. Hearty, comforting dishes of Moules du Vin Mariniere,
steak frites and crme brle are offered on the seasonallychanging menus, alongside the chef-special Prix Fixe menu. Its
bistro food at its best!
Knowing full well that no meal is complete without wine, Hotel
du Vin has, over the past 20 years, pulled together an extensive
wine and Champagne list that continues to change with the
newest and most exciting trends. Always on hand to help, expert
sommeliers know their vino and are able to make a great dinner
even more special. No matter the reason for your stay at Hotel du Vin
Cambridge, you can be sure itll be full of great food and fine wine.
For more information and to book a room at this hotel call 0844 736
4253 and visit www.hotelduvin.com

HOW TO ENTER

To which era does the Hotel du Vin Cambridge date?


A Tudor

B Victorian

C Medieval

NAME .................................................................................................................
ADDRESS ............................................................................................................
............................................................................................................................
................................................................... POST CODE ....................................
EMAIL .................................................................................................................
I have a subscription

I prefer not to receive product information

slug

WHERE TO GO

WILD
IN BRITAIN

NHPA/PHOTOSHOT

If you want to get away from it


all to see Britains ora and
fauna in splendid natural
isolation, then let your journey
start here, with ideas for every
month of the year ahead

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 85

British Wildlife
From left: Islay is home
to thousands of visiting
barnacle and whitefronted geese; buzzard

JANUARY

HEBRIDEAN
HIGHLIGHT
Islay, Argyll and Bute, Scotland

slay is the southernmost island of the


Inner Hebrides, lying at the entrance
to the Firth of Lorn. Its vast range of
habitats supports a terrific variety of wildlife.
In winter, hen harriers hunt over the lower
moors and you just might have a once-ina-lifetime encounter with a golden eagle,
especially in the rugged south of the island
towards the Oa peninsula. Look out, too,
for red-billed choughs on the tidelines of the
sandy bays, feeding on insects found in
the seaweed.
Islay has 130 miles of indented coastline,
with sand and shingle beach, mudflats, and
cliffs. Loch Indaal and Loch Gruinart, both
with mudflats and smooth green marsh at
the head of enclosed bays, are marvellous
places for wintering waders, divers, grebes,
and sea ducks such as eiders and scaups. But
it is the extraordinary population of geese
that everyone comes to see in winter: around
37,000 barnacle geese and 13,000 whitefronted geese inhabit the island from autumn
86 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

until April, creating a magnificent sight and


sound. The barnacle geese from Greenland
are indistinguishable from barnacle geese
breeding in Spitsbergen (which spend the
winter on the Solway Firth), while the orangebilled, white-fronted geese are darker than the
more numerous, pink-billed ones from Siberia,
and form a distinct race. You can see both
species around the head of Loch Gruinart.
Look out too, for the shyer island
inhabitants, like the red, fallow, and roe deer,
and the secretive otters. Common and grey
seals can be found around the coast,
in places such as Killinallan Point, east of
Loch Gruinart.
The Rhinns in the north and the Oa in the
south are good for birds of prey, including
golden eagles, buzzards, hen harriers,
peregrines, merlins, and kestrels; while
common and black guillemots, razorbills,
kittiwakes, fulmars, and shags fly around the
cliffs. The blue-grey rock doves, which are
truly wild and untainted by domestic stock,
feed on cliff-top grasslands and nest around
the sea cliffs.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


tG
e
tin
g Ferries leave
from Kennacraig three or four
times a day on weekdays and
Saturdays and twice on Sundays.
The Loch Gruinart reserve is
signed from the A847 Bridgend
to Bruichladdich Road, 4.8km
(3 miles) from the turn-off. The
nearest bus stop to the reserve is
at this turn-off.
Access and facilities: The RSPB
reserve has good access to
viewing points and one hide is
specially adapted for wheelchair
users (access by car can be
arranged). The centre has fullaccess toilets for all abilities,
parking, and refreshments,
and is pushchair friendly. The
woodland trail is not suitable for
wheelchairs.
Opening times: The reserve
is open at all times. The visitor
centre is open daily from
10am-5pm.
Contact: RSPB Loch Gruinart
Reserve, Bushmills Cottage,
Gruinart, Bridgend, Isle of Islay,
Argyll and Bute PA44 7PR.
Tel: 01496 850 505;
loch.gruinart@rspb.org.uk

e
th

FEBRUARY

WILD
EXMOOR
Exmoor National Park,
Devon/Somerset

onies live wild in several areas of


Britain, but the rolling heather
moorlands and stark coastal cliffs
of Exmoor provide their most dramatic
habitat. Here they are essential parts of the
moorland landscape, where their grazing and
browsing have played an important part in
the ecosystem for thousands of years.
The Exmoor pony is the most primitive of
the UKs native ponies, and its oldest breed
predating the arrival of the Romans in
Britain. It is an extremely hardy little pony,
resistant to disease and with great powers
of endurance, and its long survival on the
cold, wet but beautiful moor with little
food or shelter is testimony to its strength. In
February you can really see how the pony
has evolved to survive: it grows a soft, woolly
undercoat, topped by a longer, oily, waterrepellent outer coat. Look for the broad fan of
hair at the base of the tail known as the ice
tail or snow chute that helps channel
cold rain away from the body.
Always some shade of brown or bay, the
ponys distinctive appearance comes from its

wide forehead with large, pale-ringed eyes,


its mealy nose, strong, thick neck, broad
back, and sturdy, short legs. The pale rings
around the eyes (hooded or toad eyes)
are actually thick fleshy surrounds to protect
the eyes against the frequent rain that lashes
the moor in winter. Their teeth are also
unusually suited to the environment an
extra molar ensures they can easily chew
coarse, thorny plants. Even the nose and ears
have evolved efficiently: small ears keep
heat loss to a minimum, while large nasal
passages help to warm the freezing air before
it reaches the lungs.
Exmoor was used as a training ground
during the Second World War, and great
numbers of ponies were killed: only some
50 survived. Local people rescued the
remaining herds but numbers remained low
until the early 1980s. The total now stands at
between 1,000 and 2,000; these are caught
once a year and branded for conservation
reasons. However gently they nuzzle their
young, the ponies you see today are direct
descendants of those that once pulled mighty
chariots for the fearsome Celts. The ponies
are approachable, but can kick, so stand well
clear of their hind legs.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: Exmoor is easily
accessible by road from the M5,
junction 27. There is also a bus
network through the park (www.
travelinesw.com or tel: 0871 200
2233). Nearest train stations
are at Barnstaple, Taunton, and
Tiverton Parkway.
Access and facilities: There are
visitor centres with facilities at
Cross Street, Combe Martin, EX34
0DH; Dunster Steep, Dunster,
TA24 6SG; Fore Street, Dulverton,
TA22 9EX; Blackmoor Gate,
Lynmouth, EX35 6EQ; and the Old
School, High Street, Porlock, TA24
8QD. For opening times, events,
and other accessibility details, visit
www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk
Opening times: All year round.
Contact: National Park Authority,
Exmoor House, Dulverton.
Tel: 01398 323 665; Dulverton
National Park Centre, Tel: 01398
323 841; NPCDulverton@exmoornationalpark.gov.uk

ALAMY

Winter or summer,
the Exmoor pony is
perfectly adapted
to its surroundings

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 87

British Wildlife
MARCH

From left: Brown hares


mid boxing match; the
grand Palladian faade
of Lyme Park

BOXING
HARES
Lyme Park, Disley, Stockport,
Cheshire

PHOTOSHOT; ALAMY

et in open countryside a few miles


southeast of Stockport, and overlooked
by the brooding mass of Derbyshires
High Peak, Lyme Park is one of the most
magnificent buildings in Cheshire. Originally
a Tudor country house, its exterior was
remodelled in the 18th century to create a
grand Palladian facade, complete with a huge
neo-classical portico and superb formal gardens.
For many, however, the estates real charm
lies in the rough grassland of the surrounding
medieval deer park, because in spring this is
an ideal place to watch one of the most bizarre
of all natural spectacles: the stand-up boxing
matches of the wild brown hares.
Immortalized by Lewis Carroll in Alices
Adventures in Wonderland, the mad March
hare has mystified wildlife watchers for
centuries. Unlike smaller, less agile rabbits,
brown hares spend their lives above ground in
open country, and in spring when the grass is
short their extraordinary courtship rituals are
conducted in full view.
If you want to witness these extravagant

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


rituals at Lyme Park, one of the best places
is The Cage, an ornate 18th-century hunting
lodge that offers a vast panorama of the
Cheshire Plain and the foothills of Snowdonia.
Arrive as early as possible: brown hares
are most active at dawn and dusk, but you
will need the morning light. If hares are
about, you will see groups out in the open,
clearly visible through binoculars. Males
and females look alike, but if one dashes
off, chased by several others, she will be a
female in breeding condition. Her pursuers
are males, each of whom is intent on mating
with as many females as possible. One may
shadow her more closely than the others, even
driving them away, but the common belief
that boxing hares are rival males is wrong.
A female frequently becomes so irritated by
an ardent suitor that she turns and delivers a
swift punch. He retaliates and the two may
rear up on their long hind legs to exchange
a flurry of blows. No damage is done, and
quite often the wild chase resumes almost
immediately. Eventually his persistence may
pay off, and she will allow him to mate after
which he immediately starts looking for
another female.

tG
e
tin
g By road the
entrance is on the A6, 10.5km
(7 miles) southeast of Stockport
and 9.3km (12 miles) northwest
of Buxton. The house and car
park is 1.6km (1 mile) from the
entrance. By train, Disley is
0.8km (0.5 miles) from the park
entrance. The TrentBarton No 199
Buxton to Manchester Airport bus
stops at the park entrance.
Access and facilities: Theres
a licensed restaurant and
caf in The Timber Yard and
a refreshment kiosk in the
main car park. There are fullaccess toilets throughout the
site and wheelchair access to
the buildings and parts of the
grounds, but there are steep
slopes and uneven ground.
Opening times: The park is open
all year round; the house and
gardens are open February to
October from 11am
Contact: Lyme Park, Disley,
Cheshire, SK12 2NR. Tel: 01663
762 023; lymepark@national
trust.org.uk

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 89

e
th

British Wildlife
From left: Symonds Yat
Rock; the magnicent
peregrine falcon

APRIL

The Wye Valley, Herefordshire

he Wye Valley is justly designated an


Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
[AONB]. It is divided into two areas:
the Lower Wye Gorge between Chepstow
and Symonds Yat, with dramatic limestone
cliffs and a narrow floodplain far below;
and the gentler Herefordshire lowlands
lying north of Ross on Wye, where the river
meanders across red sandstone. Both offer
some of the most beautiful views in Britain,
and have been attracting visitors since the
18th century.
In the Wye Gorge, the river runs between
small earth cliffs in which kingfishers and
sand martins nest and mud banks, over
which the river flows to flood the plain each
year. Woods line the length of the gorge, and
the area buzzes with wildlife. Dragonflies
and damselflies fill the air in spring, and six
different types of mussel live in the river
among the extraordinary number of fish: more
than 30 species have been recorded here. In

90 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

the right conditions, you stand a chance of


seeing brown trout, chub, perch, roach, and
eels as you walk along the river banks. In
spring, the many migratory species include
salmon, sea and river lampreys, and Wye
specialities such as the allis and twait shad, all
coming upstream from the sea to spawn.
For a really dramatic viewpoint on to the
valley and a close-up of its most famous
inhabitants the peregrine falcons visit
the limestone cliffs of Yat Rock, a scenic
viewpoint towering 120m (400ft) above the
Wye on the Gloucestershire side. From April
onwards you can witness the aerial displays of
these fascinating birds of prey, demonstrating
their incredible speed and control.
Down on the ground, the night draws out a
few wary foxes and badgers, and there have
been sightings of polecats, recently returned
to the valley after an absence of more than
a century. Otters have also returned to
play along the tributary streams, while 15
different species of bats swoop through the
air above them.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: To reach
Symonds Yat Rock, follow the
brown tourist signs on the B4432
to Symonds Yat from Coleford,
Forest of Dean. The viewpoint is
approximately 250m (270 yards)
from the car park; just follow the
peregrine viewing signs. There
are also buses that run from
Coleford bus station.
Access and facilities: There is an
information point at Symonds Yat
Rock run by the RSPB and Forest
Enterprise who fund telescopes to
help visitors see the peregrines.
There are toilets and a caf on
site, and both are wheelchair
friendly. A refreshment kiosk is
open daily during the summer,
from 10am to 4pm.
Opening times: Open all year
round. Car park and toilets are
open 10am-8.30 pm, or dusk
if sooner.
Contact: Forestry Commission,
tel: 01594 833 057; Symonds Yat
information assistant, tel: 07736
792 511; www.rspb.org.uk

PHOTOSHOT

VIBRANT
VALLEY LIFE

MAY

THE WILD
PENINSULA
Gower Peninsula, Swansea,
South Wales

rectangular slab of pale limestone


topped by sandstone hills, all but
detached from the south coast of
Wales, the Gower Peninsula is a wonderful
destination for the geologist, geographer,
archaeologist and wildlife enthusiast, with
its big estuary, extensive saltmarshes, sand
dunes, beaches, woods, moors, and reed
beds. Not least among its charms are the
limestone cliffs and clifftop grasslands
that run along its southern coast, from
Mumbles Head to the magnificent Worms
Head, reaching far out into Carmarthen
Bay. Beautiful panoramas extend across
the Bristol Channel to Exmoor, Ilfracombe,
Hartland Point, and Lundy.
The mild climate and south-facing prospect
ensure a long, early growing season. In
May, look out for the yellow whitlow-grass
that grows on cliffs such as Pwll Du Head,
and at Pennard Castle it grows nowhere
else in the UK. The open grassland above
the cliff is at its finest at this time of year:

ungrazed areas with deeper soils, such as


Long Hole Cliff and Overton Cliff, are thick
with heath, gorse, hawthorn, blackthorn
and juniper thickets. On the poorer soils
and well-trodden areas youre more likely
to find typical limestone plants such as early
purple orchids, shocking-pink splashes of
bloody cranesbill, and the yellow carline
thistle. Birds-foot trefoil and kidney vetch
abound, and there are whorls of the rare,
green Portland spurge. Look out for salttolerant plants, such as sea campion, golden
samphire, rock sea-lavender, scurvygrass,
sea beet, spring squill, and thrift, and the
only maritime fern sea spleenwort. Rarities
include hoary rockrose, goldilocks aster,
and wild asparagus, which has been greatly
reduced by collectors and, like any rarity,
should be left alone.
Over the sea theres a good chance of seeing
passing Manx shearwaters and gannets, and
the clifftops have ravens, jackdaws, choughs,
stonechats, linnets, and yellowhammers.
Buzzards are common on Gower, while
Oxwich Marsh has reed and sedge warblers,
herons, and kingfishers.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: By car, follow the
M4. You can access Gower from
a number of different junctions.
For South Gower and Mumbles,
take junction 42, which will take
you on the Swansea Bay road.
For North Gower, take junction 47.
By bus, National Express coaches
run from London Victoria,
Gatwick, and Heathrow airports,
and there are stops around
Yorkshire and the Midlands to
Swansea bus station.
Access and facilities: The
peninsula covers 181 sq km (70
square miles) and is home to
19 nature reserves, most well
served by rural businesses. At
Rhossili and Llanmadoc there are
pubs and cafs with full access
for wheelchairs and pushchairs,
plus car parking.
Contact: Wildlife Trust of South
and West Wales, tel: 01656 724
100; welshwildlife.org/contact-us

ALAMY

From left: The huge


sweep of Rhossili bay;
bright patches of thrift
cling to the cliffs

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 91

British Wildlife
JUNE

From left: Traditional


woodland management
encourages a variety
of wildlife; the rarely
seen but often heard
nightingale

HISTORIC
WOODLANDS

ike the New Forest, Rockingham


was an important royal forest during
medieval times, reserved by William the
Conqueror during the 11th century for hunting
deer and wild boar. It consists of a mosaic of
wooded areas and more open country, with
farmland and small villages, historic buildings
of local stone, and two extremely rare Bronze
Age cairns. Only about half the ancient
woodland remains of ash, field maple, and
oak, interspersed with rarer trees such as the
wild service tree and the small-leaved lime.
For centuries the woods were managed by
coppicing. The many branches this produced
had a myriad of uses, from fencing and housebuilding to providing firewood or charcoal.
Today, this traditional management is still
carried out to encourage wildlife, and one bird
that benefits particularly is the nightingale.
Hazel dormice, scarce in much of the country,
thrive here in the coppiced woodland and
overgrown hedgerows, which provide them
with essential food and shelter. Other mammals
include foxes, badgers, polecats, stoats, fallow
deer, and muntjac deer.
The forest has an understorey of hawthorn,
2
9

OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

blackthorn, and hazel, and the ground layer


is exceptionally rich in plant life. Bluebells
and wood anemones abound, but there are
also rarer plants, including various species of
orchids, toothwort, and stinking hellebore.
Birdlife includes tawny and long-eared owls,
all three species of British woodpeckers, marsh
and willow tits, and hawfinches whose huge
bills are capable of cracking cherry stones.
Most famous are the red kites that were
introduced here in the 1990s, and have since
built up a self-sustaining population. Over
20 butterfly species breed here; look for the
rare black hairstreak butterfly among mature
stands of blackthorn bushes, especially in the
sunny glades and sheltered woodland margins.
Its caterpillars feed mainly on the blackthorn
leaves. This is a very localized species just
30 colonies remain in the East Midlands forest
belt. Its flight period is brief, from mid-June to
mid-July, and it spends much of its time feeding
on aphid honeydew in the tops of the larger
trees. Three other species of hairstreaks can
also be seen in Rockingham; try the nature
reserve at Bedford Purlieus for the rarest, the
brown hairstreak, whose caterpillars feed on
blackthorn. Those of the more common purple
hairstreak eat oak leaves, while the caterpillars
of the white-letter hairstreak prefer elm.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: Fineshade
Woods, within the forest, has an
RSPB visitor centre and caf at
Top Lodge, which is signposted
from the A43, 14.4km (9 miles)
northeast of Corby and 9.6km (6
miles) southwest of Stamford.
Access and facilities:
Rockingham Forest has more
than 400km (250 miles) of walks,
and includes Wakerley Great
Wood, Fermyn Wood, Southey
Wood, Fineshade Wood, and
Bedford Purlieus nature reserve.
The RSPBs visitor centre at
Fineshade has refreshment
facilities and is wheelchair
friendly. Some of the trails are not
suitable for wheelchairs.
Opening times: The woods are
open all year round; the visitor
centre opens from 10am-5pm.
Contact: Forestry Commission
Northants, tel: 01780 444 920;
northants@forestry.gsi.gov.uk

ALAMY; PHOTOSHOT

Rockingham Forest, Rockingham,


near Corby, Northamptonshire

British Wildlife
From left: Golden eagles
patrol the national park;
the eagles breed in the
more remote areas

JULY

The Cairngorms National Park,


Aviemore, Scottish Highlands

he Cairngorms National Park in


Scotland is home to some of our
most sought-after wildlife. It is a
huge area of real wilderness its mountains,
moorlands, forests, rivers, lochs, and glens
cover 3,800 sq km (1,400 sq miles) and
endures some of Britains toughest weather
conditions. The mountains are the UKs
highest and largest, with peaks rising above
1,000m (3,280ft). The highest Ben Macdui
rises to 1,310m (4,300ft).
The stunning scenery of this national park
lures climbers and serious walkers even in
winter, with its thick layer of tempting snow,
but it is June and July when the mountains are
at their easiest and safest to explore.
In summer the Arctic-alpine flora is at
its best; in July the corries offer shelter to
roseroot and mountain sorrell, while the
rock walls are covered in purple saxifrage.
There are a huge number of walks through
the park, but whichever one you take, it will

94 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

be brightened by moss campion, trailing


azaleas, alpine ladys-mantle, and starry
saxifrage. This is also the best time to see the
mountain birds that breed on the summits,
such as the beautiful montane wader, the
dotterel. Snow buntings and ptarmigans breed
in this desolate landscape too, but they are
harder to find. Ptarmigans are a very tame
type of grouse; they spend all year at high
altitudes, and are rarely seen, especially
as their summer plumage of speckled grey
camouflages them so remarkably well.
The ptarmigan always keeps an eye
directed towards the sky as golden eagles
patrol these mountains and they breed in
the more remote corners. Mountain hares are
their favourite prey and these animals have
become particularly cautious, running away at
the slightest sound. Red grouse and red deer
live on the lower slopes in summer, the deer
grazing on fresh, young shoots.
A herd of 150 Scandinavian reindeer roam
around the foot of the Cairngorm Mountain
and guides are available to help you approach
and even hand-feed these gentle creatures.

Getting there: By road, take


the A9 to Aviemore, then follow
signs to the Cairngorms National
Park. By train, travel to Aviemore.
By bus, take the No 501 Heather
Hopper, which connects Ballater
and Grantown-on-Spey, and
travels right through the centre of
the national park.
Access and facilities:
Wheelchair access is limited;
contact the Park Authority (see
details above) before arriving, as
some access can be arranged.
The visitor centre has parking
and a full range of facilities.
There is a funicular railway to
the Ptarmigan Restaurant, which
is the UKs highest restaurant.
There is also a viewing platform
giving views for miles around.
Opening times: The reserve
is open at all times. The visitor
centre is open daily, 10am-5pm.
Contact: Cairngorms National
Park Authority, tel: 01479 873
535; enquiries@cairngorms.
co.uk. Glenmore Visitor Centre,
Glenmore Forest Park, Aviemore,
Highland PH22 1QU; tel: 01479
861 220. The Cairngorm Reindeer
Centre, tel: 01479 861 228; www.
cairngormreindeer.co.uk

ALAMY

UP AMONG
THE CLOUDS

PLANNING YOUR VISIT

AUGUST

British Wildlife

SEAL-SPOTTING
PARADISE
Blakeney Point, Blakeney,
North Norfolk

ALAMY

wo species of seal breed in Britain:


the grey and the common seal. The
common seal is not the commonest
species in the UK, and its alternative name
of harbour seal is certainly more appropriate
in Scotland, where it is found along the west
coast; but in eastern England it is more often
found on estuaries and sand flats. Pupping
takes place ashore. Common seals, which
breed in summer, can use sand flats as the
pups can swim almost as soon as they are
born. Grey seals are born in winter and
cannot swim until they shed their first white
coat after two or three weeks, before which
they must remain out of the water.
Both species spend much of their time
when not feeding hauled out on beaches,
often in mixed species groups. Blakeney
Point on the north Norfolk Coast is one
such haul-out spot, and some 500 seals of
the two species can be found here during
the summer. You can see them from sealwatching boat trips from Morston and

Blakeney, or by making the energetic 5km(3 mile-) trek west from Cley-next-the-sea.
In the past, common seals predominated
on the Point, but things are changing: it
has now been more or less abandoned for
pupping and grey seals are on the increase.
These two facts may not be unrelated as
grey seals tend to pack very tightly and
could eventually displace the smaller
common seals.
The Point also hosts important breeding
colonies of water birds, especially terns.
Sandwich, common, little, and a few Arctic
terns wheel screechily around, plunge-diving
and feeding their raucous chicks. Locally
breeding ringed plovers and oystercatchers
congregate at high tide, mingling with the
returning Arctic waders, whose numbers
increase daily at this time of year.
If you go ashore, look out for the fading
flowers of the shingle plants: yellow horned
poppy, sea campion, and biting stonecrop. On
the adjacent saltmarshes, look for the dense
thickets of shrubby sea-blite and several
species of sea-lavender, including the rare
matted sea-lavender.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: Blakeney Point is
8km (5 miles) from Wells-nextthe-sea on the North Norfolk
coast. Park at Cley-next-the-sea
and walk to the Point from Cley
beach car park (5km/3 miles),
or at Morston Quay and take
a boat (times depending on
tides). The nearest train station
is Sheringham; from there take
the Coasthopper bus to Cley or
Morston. Both are on National
Cycle Network Route 30.
Access and facilities: Boat
trips either make a round trip
without disembarking, or allow
for an hour or two exploring
on the Point. The sand and
shingle terrain is inaccessible by
wheelchair. Refreshments and
toilets at Morston car park and
at the Old Lifeboat Station on
the Point (closed September to
April). Some areas of the Point
are out of bounds during the bird
breeding season, from April
to August.
Contact: Blakeney NNR, tel:
01263 740 241; blakeneypoint@
nationaltrust.org.uk

From left: Up to 500 grey


and common seals can
be found at Blakeney
Point during summer

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 95

British Wildlife
From left: Flowering
heather casts a purple
haze; merlins hunt for
pipits and skylarks

HIGH ON THE
HEATHER
North York Moors National Park,
Yorkshire, England

he largest continuous area of upland


heather moorland in England,
the North York Moors provide a
spectacle in any season. But in September
they are simply stunning: flowering heather
casts a purple glow over the hills, with
highlights of yellowing bracken, and all
is illuminated by the soft, early-autumn
sunlight. Even better, nearly all of the
moorland is fully accessible under the UKs
right-to-roam legislation.
Most of the breeding wading birds for which
the Moors are so important have departed
for lowlands by the end of the summer,
though there may be a few lingering curlews
or lapwings. Without their calls, a nearsilence descends, broken only by the hum
of nectaring bumblebees, the plaintive yet
piercing sip! of meadow pipits, and
the cackle of red grouse. These iconic
moorland birds feed mostly on the
tender shoots of heather. Reliant on their
camouflaged plumage, they may allow close
96 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

approach; but listen out too, for the whirring


sound of a flock mid-air.
Grouse numbers fluctuate according to
parasite and predator cycles, and as a result of
moorland management and shooting pressure.
The major economic value of moorland lies in
grouse shooting and large swathes are burned
or cut each year to produce the fresh new
growth favoured by grouse and, by chance,
the varied habitats favoured by breeding
curlews and golden plovers.
The older, leggier heather is favoured by
merlins for nesting in the summer, but they
disperse over the whole of the moors in
search of prey especially pipits and skylarks
during autumn. They are often joined by
the much-larger hen harriers and short-eared
owls, who effortlessly quarter the moors.
Among the dry heather moorland,
there are also wet heaths and bogs.
In early autumn, you can see the white
fluffy seedheads of the cotton-grasses and the
reddish mounds of some of the bog-mosses. If
you dont mind getting your feet wet, a closer
look may reveal sundew, bog-myrtle, bog
asphodel, cloudberry, and bog-rosemary.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: By car, head for
one of the parks visitor centres:
The Moors Centre (Lodge Lane,
Danby, YO21 2NB); or Sutton Bank
National Park Centre (Sutton
Bank, Thirsk, YO7 2EH). By rail or
coach, travel to one of the towns
surrounding the park, such as
York, Malton, Middlesbrough,
Whitby, Northallerton, or Thirsk,
which all have good bus links into
the park. The Esk Valley railway
runs between Middlesbrough
and Whitby, and takes you right
into the heart of the National
Park. The Moorsbus Network
serves North York Moors itself
from April to October.
Access and facilities: The
national park has a committed
policy for the disabled traveller
and there are good facilities at all
the visitor centres.
Contact: The Moors National
Park Centre, Danby; tel: 01439
772 737; moorscentre@
northyorkmoors.org.uk

PHOTOSHOT; ALAMY

SEPTMEBER

VISIT THE
UKS ONLY
CROCODILE ZOO!
Crocodiles of the World is an experience unlike
any other. Nowhere else but here will you have
the opportunity to see such a wide collection
of crocodiles, alligators and caimans - over 100
individuals representing more than 14 species.
You will be captivated from the moment you arrive.
Theres a whole world of crocodiles out there just
waiting for you to discover it!
100+ crocodiles, alligators and caimans
Rare endangered species and hatchlings
Feeding displays VIP/Keeper experiences
Underwater viewing Outdoor picnic area
Birthday parties Group and school visits

www.crocodilesoftheworld.co.uk

Tel: 01993 846353


Open daily 10am-5pm | Burford Road, Brize Norton OX18 3NX

British Wildlife
From left: Autumn
brings large ocks
of geese ying in
formation; the tranquil
beauty of loch Leven

OCTOBER

Loch Leven, Perth and Kinross,


Scotland

och Leven National Nature Reserve


lies below the lomond hill s, where
its vast, tranquil loch spreads over 16
sq km (6 sq miles). The loch encompasses
islands, lagoons, reedbeds, and grazing
marshes, which provide food and shelter for
thousands of birds in the autumn and winter.
The best place to appreciate the wildlife,
especially close up, is the RSPB reserve at
Vane Farm, which has excellent views across
the main loch, specially created shallow
lagoons, and nature trails on nearby
wooded hillsides.
In October, it is one of the best places in
the UK to see vast numbers of wild geese.
These iconic birds are closely associated with
the romance and mystery of migration and
the changing of the seasons. In England, the
increase of semi-wild Canada and greylag
geese has devalued them somewhat, but the
real thing the truly wild birds that annually

98 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

cross the seas from the north to spend the


winter with us are magnificent. They are
at their best in large, flying flocks, when
they make the familiar V-shapes, chevrons
and wavy lines and the air fills with their
ringing, clanging, and clattering calls. You
can distinguish the greylag geese by their
harsher, more rattling notes; the pink-footed
geese form a more musical chorus deep
calls interspersed with high, sharp winwink notes. On the ground, the geese march
steadily along in tightly packed groups, often
squabbling and calling, making them always
interesting to watch.
With the geese, or nearby, will be hordes
of ducks: the wigeons like to patrol the grass,
while pintails, teals and mallards stay close
to the water. Look for lapwings and golden
plovers; these are the signalling birds, who
will suddenly take flight, and noisily sound
the alarm if birds of prey appear in the skies
overhead. Groups of whooper swans may be
hiding a few rarer Bewicks; smaller wading
birds can be found at the edges of the water.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: By car, take the
M90 to Junction 5, then follow
signs to the reserve. The nearest
train station is Cowdenbeath,
11km (7 miles) away, but there
is no onward public transport.
A bus runs from Kinross on
Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Vane Farm lies 7km (4 miles)
off Route 1 of the National
Cycle Network.
Access and facilities: There
are three hides at Vane Farm,
all with good access. The visitor
centre has a caf, trail and bird
information, car park, full-access
toilets, and good facilities for
wheelchair users. Some of the
trails are difcult for wheelchairs.
Opening times: Loch Leven is
accessible at all times. Vane
Farm visitor centre is open
10am5pm daily, but the trails
and hides are open 24 hours a
day all year, except for Christmas
Day, Boxing Day, New Years Day
and 2 January.
Contact: RSPB Vane Farm Nature
Reserve, tel: 01577 862 355;
vanefarm@rspb.org.uk

ALAMY; PHOTOSHOT

AUTUMN BY
THE LOCH

NOVEMBER

RUTTING
RED DEER
Richmond Park, Richmond upon
Thames, Surrey

still, late-autumn dawn, the grass


crisp with frost. All is quiet, until the
silence is suddenly shattered by a
fearsome, drawn-out roar. It is a red deer stag,
Britains largest land mammal, advertising his
presence, his power, and his control over a
harem of females to any potential rivals. And
what an impressive sight he is, his magnificent
branched antlers held high, his hot breath
condensing around him in the cool autumn air.
The rutting season lasts for a couple of
months, and for much of the time such
posturing is the limit of his display. But at its
peak, and when rivals cannot be separated
on roars alone, the rut turns physical. Heads
down, antlers locked, the stags push at each
otherpowerfully, each trying to force the
other to give ground. The risks are evident:
those sharp points can inflict serious, or even
mortal, wounds. The rewards though are
great the dominant male wins the chance
to father all of the next years offspring
from the harem.

One great place to witness this annual


trial of strength is Richmond Park, one of
Londons green lungs, which has around
300 red deer. Gates open at 7.30am, so by
the end of the month there is plenty of time
to get into the heart of the action before the
sun rises.
There are also some 350 fallow deer,
and these too have a rut, albeit a little less
noisy and dramatic. Take care not to disturb
the deer with your appearance or scent
keep your distance and remain downwind
wherever possible.
The Park was first enclosed in 1637, as a
royal hunting park. The ancient trees, many
of which pre-date the enclosure, have been
managed as pollards, so that succulent new
growth is produced above the reach of the
deer. This has left the trunks to grow thick
and old; healthy but hollow, or full of dead
wood. Perfect, in fact, for wood-dwelling
beetles. This superlative site has more than
1,350 species of beetles over a quarter
of the total British list. No wonder, then,
that it is given the highest level of nature
conservation protection.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: Richmond Park
is only about 20 minutes from
central London. Richmond Station
is served both by overground and
underground trains. By bus, catch
the 371 or 65 to the pedestrian
gate at Petersham.
Access and facilities: There are
six free car parks within the park.
There are also cafs, restaurants,
and refreshment points
throughout the park. There is a
car park reserved for disabledbadge-holders only, near the
Isabella Plantation.
Opening times: The park is
open all year round, from 7am in
summer and 7.30am in winter,
closing at dusk. Specic opening
and closing times can be found
on the Royal Parks website,
www.royalparks.org.uk.
Contact: Richmond Park Ofce,
tel: 0300 061 2200; richmond@
royalparks.gsi.gov.uk.

PHOTOSHOT

From left: Antlers can


inict serious wounds;
an oasis of nature in
the centre of London

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 99

British Wildlife

WE
T
IN
R
WONDERLAND
Isle of Man, Irish Sea

ight in the middle of the Irish Sea,


between Ireland and Britain, lies a
beautiful island that is rich in wildlife
and steeped in ancient history. At only 53km
(33 miles) long and 21km (13 miles) wide,
the Isle of Man is relatively small, but it offers
wildlife a wide range of enticing habitats,
from cliff edges and woodland glens, to
mountains and wide, open moors, all spread
out among the ancient Celtic and Viking ruins
and monuments.
One of the most important habitats on the
island is the Ballaugh Curragh wetland. This
reserve has a network of boarded walks. As
you wander through areas of bog myrtle,
willow scrub (curragh), bog pools, marshy
grasslands, and birch woodland, keep an eye
out for that elusive bird, the corncrake, which
likes to hide under the abundant royal fern.
Another reclusive creature lives beneath
you, deep in the heart of the island the cave
spider, one of Britains largest, yet notoriously
difficult to find. You may, though, see a rednecked wallaby: 2030 of them escaped from

captivity many years ago, and now run wild


in the Curragh. Gorse and especially yellow
ragwort the islands national flower grows
everywhere. But its the amazing number of
hen harriers that makes this site so special.
Visit Close Sartfield Nature Reserve, within the
Ballaugh Curragh, and youll see the largest
hen harrier roosting site in Western Europe,
with up to 80 hen harriers coming in to roost.
Another Manx star is the chough, which can
be seen around the cliffs to the south and west
of the island, or foraging along the tideline.
These handsome, shiny black birds are very
sociable; in winter, you can watch groups of up
to 40 sweep in, noisily calling to each other.
Along the shore of the mainland, the midshore pools are full of delights, especially for
children: the red blobs of beadlet anemones
sit among limpets and periwinkles. Check the
low-tide pools for sea urchins and starfish.
Take a boat to the Calf of Man to see seabirds:
the bird observatory there has recorded Manx
shearwaters, razorbills, cormorants, fulmars,
and puffins. Harbour porpoises swim in the
waters around the islands, joined by bottlenose
dolphins in winter.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT


Getting there: The islands ferry
services are provided by the Isle
of Man Steam Packet Company
(www.steam-packet.com) and
depart from Heysham, Liverpool,
Dublin, Belfast and Fleetwood.
Access and facilities: The
Curraghs Wildlife Park lies at the
edge of the Ballaugh Curraghs,
and has a boardwalk nature trail
with good access and facilities.
There are two visitor centres with
facilities at Ayres and Scarlett.
Opening times: Contact
individual nature reserves for
opening times.
Contact: Manx Wildlife Trust,
tel: 01624 844 432; enquiries@
manxwt.org.uk

DECEMBER
From left: Hen harriers
roost at Close Sarteld
Nature Reserve; Manx
wild wallaby

PHOTOSHOT

For more ideas about where to wild


in the months ahead, buy the full
version of Where to Go Wild in
Britain, published by Dorling
Kindersley and available as
an eBook from dk.com

100 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

BRITAINS
MOST WANTED
Join the search for some of our most iconic and elusive wildlife
with our at-a-glance guide by James Lowen
PINE MARTEN MARTES MARTES
This relative of the stoat is active
between dusk and dawn. Britains
population may be as few as 4,000,
with 95 percent of these in Scotland.
Top location: on the veranda at Glen
Loy Lodge in Highland, most evenings

WHITE-TAILED EAGLE
HALIAEETUS ALBICILLA
In the 40 years since Europes
largest eagle was first reintroduced
to the Hebridean island of Rum,
some 40 pairs of these flying
barn-doors breed in north-west
Scotland, mainly the Western Isles.
Top location: boat trips from
Portree on Skye offer your best
chance to see them in flight

SWALLOWTAIL
PAPILIO MACHAON
Britains most exotic-looking
butterfly is apart from the hint of
a new colony in Dorset confined
to East Anglias Broadland.

ALAMY

Location: At Strumpshaw Fen,


try the flower-rich garden along
Tinkers Lane

RED SQUIRREL
SCIURUS VULGARIS
Loss of its woodland habitat,
competition with the nonnative grey squirrel and disease
means that outside Scotland
it is now much harder to spot
the iconic leader of the Tufty
Club than it was 60 years ago.

GREAT CRESTED NEWT


TRITURUS CRISTATUS
Best seen in or around
breeding pools on mild
evenings, April to June.

Location: Brownsea Island, in


Dorset, is an excellent place to
enjoy close-range views

Location: the ponds at


Wat Tyler Country Park,
near Basildon, Essex
discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 101

Great Escapes Places to Stay

Curiouser and curiouser


If youre on a quest to nd an out-of-the-ordinary place to stay, here is
our selection of some of Britains quirkiest accommodation options
GETAWAY

The Roundhouse
Bodrifty Farm, Cornwall
Sleeps 2
From 120 per night
In a clearing among the trees sits this replica
Iron Age roundhouse, t for a Celtic chief.
Based on a roundhouse found at the Bodrifty
Iron Age Settlement just three elds away,
guests are truly able to escape the trappings
of modern life and swap stories around the
ickering rebowl in the evenings.
Tel: 01736 366 796; www.bodriftyfarm.
co.uk/the-roundhouse.html

Solent Forts
Off the coast of Portsmouth
31 bedrooms across two forts
From 700 per night
Leave the mainland for a unique stay in a
decommissioned Victorian sea fort, since
transformed into a luxury hotel. The ninebedroom Spitbank Fort will be joined by the
22-bedroom No Mans Land Fort this autumn.
Tel: 0330 333 7222;
www.amazingvenues.co.uk

102 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

GETAWAY

Malmaison

ETA
G

Oxford
95 rooms
From 99 per night
Not many people would relish a night in the
cells, unless of course they happened to look
like the rooms of Malmaison Oxford, a chic
hotel that occupies the citys former gaol. The
formidable entrance leads through to stylish
rooms with touches that hark back to the
buildings former use, including heavy-duty
bolts on the cell doors of the bedrooms
and sections of bare brick walls cleverly
incorporated into the interior design. Far from
the offerings of a prison canteen, guests can
enjoy dining in style at the hotels brasserie.

The Balancing Barn

Tel: 0871 943 0350; www.malmaison.com

Near Walberswick, Suffolk


Sleeps 8
From 830 for a 4-night break

GETAWAY

Looking for a little equilibrium in your life? This


implausible self-catering accommodation may
just be the ticket! Located in a tranquil setting
on the doorstep of a nature reserve and just
a few miles from the Suffolk Heritage Coast,
The Balancing Barn offers panoramic views of
the surrounding area.
www.living-architecture.co.uk

Livingstone Lodge
Port Lympne Wild Animal Park, Kent
10 safari tents
From 140 per person per night

GETAWAY

An overnight safari experience doesnt


have to come with long ights and
dreaded jabs. Stay at Kents Livingstone
Lodge where guests will wake to the sight
of zebras, wildebeests and giraffes walking
past the veranda.
Tel: 0844 855 0274;
www.aspinallfoundation.org

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 103

Y
A
W

Great Escapes Places to Stay


GETAWAY

A Room for London


Southbank Centre, London
Sleeps 2
From 300 per night

GETAWAY

The winning design in the A Room


for London competition, this rooftop
boat is so popular that potential
guests are entered into a ballot and are
only allowed to stay for one night!
Perched on top of the Southbank
Centres Queen Elizabeth Hall, as
though deposited there by a ood of
biblical proportions, theres no need
to pack your sea legs for a night in this
vessel. During a stay guests can enjoy
panoramic views of the capital and
its iconic sites, with Big Ben and the
London Eye off the port bow.
www.living-architecture.co.uk

Antony Gormleys Room


The Beaumont, London
Sleeps 2
From 410 per night
As of this autumn, fans of Antony Gormley
will not only be able to admire the artists
work, theyll also be able to spend a night
within it. Gormleys Room suite has been
opened as part of The Beaumont, Mayfairs
latest hotel, and comprises a crouching cubist
gure that juts out from the hotels faade.
Inside, Gormley has used the four square
metres to create a cocoon where guests can
escape from the busy streets of London.
Tel: 020 7499 1001; www.thebeaumont.com

Yellow Submarine
Albert Docks, Liverpool
Sleeps 8
From 199 per night
While we may not all be living in a yellow
submarine, as The Beatles once boasted, we
can at least book a stay in one for a few nights.
Located in the city famous for its connections
with the Fab Four, this converted barge with
its psychedelic interiors, gold discs from The
Beatles and the mod scooter from the lm
Quadrophenia, provides a quirky city stopover.
Found within the citys bustling Albert Docks,
there are plenty of restaurants just minutes
away, while the citys sites are within easy reach.
Book a stay here and youll be whistling The
Beatles tunes for weeks!
Tel: 07885 295 413;
www.yellowsubliverpool.co.uk

104 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

GETAWAY

ADVERTORIAL

DISCOVER THE
BEST OF BRITAIN
Are you planning a holiday in the British Isles? Then start
your search with these hotels, B&Bs and holiday-lets in
beautiful surroundings for a relaxing autumn break

GEORGE BELL HOUSE, WEST SUSSEX

PENVENTON PARK HOTEL, CORNWALL

Situated in the historic grounds of Chichester Cathedral, George Bell


House offers eight en-suite bedrooms with stunning views of the
cathedral or gardens. Consisting of doubles/twins and a single room,
each bedroom has been decorated to a high standard and offers a
hospitality tray, flat screen TV, hairdryer and Wi-Fi. A stay at George
Bell House offers the convenience of a city centre location within the
tranquil setting of the cathedral precincts.
Tel: 01243 813 586; www.chichestercathedral.org.uk

Relaxed yet decadent, Penventon Park Hotel really is the place to be spoilt,
providing a luxury experience and a chance to get away and discover the
pleasures of Cornwall. Enjoy pure Cornish hospitality at its best with a cream
tea on arrival, three course table dhte dinner, pre dinner cocktails plus
a 10 spa voucher to be redeemed against a face or body treatment of 60
minutes or more. From 139 per couple.
Tel: 01209 203 000; www.penventon.co.uk

WESTWOOD GUEST HOUSE, DORSET

OUTLOOK HOTEL, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Westwood Guest House is a luxury bed & breakfast accommodation in


the beautiful Dorset resort of Lyme Regis at the heart of the Jurassic coast.
Each room has been individually designed to be comfortable, relaxing,
and features stunning views from every aspect. All our rooms have either
super king, king or twin beds and feature large en-suite shower rooms.
Tel: 01297 442 376; www.westwoodguesthouse.com/

Scarboroughs four-star Outlook Hotel directly overlooks Peasholm Park,


its name reflecting the view, with a warm welcome awaiting you. The
11 en-suite rooms are popular with couples and small groups alike. Golf,
cricket, theatre breaks or events can be arranged via the hotel, and the
Open Air Theatre is just five minutes away.
Tel: 01723 364 900; www.outlookhotelscarborough.com

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106 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2013 discoverbritainmag.com

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discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2013 107

ADVERTORIAL

CHRISTMAS DAYS OUT


Why not soak up the festive period and experience a magical
winter wonderland at one of our Christmas adventures.

ADVERTORIAL

SEASON OF GIVING

Stuck for that last-minute Christmas present? Here is a


round-up of some unique gift ideas for friends and family alike

MACWET GLOVES PROVIDE:

Discover your family story

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The perfect t available in 14 sizes
A choice of 6 colours, two styles and two cu lengths
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Tel: 0845 6039075; www.macwet.com

Discover your family story with award-winning Journals of a Lifetime. Each beautifully
made guided memory book contains around 60 fun and inspiring questions carefully
designed to inspire your family to enjoy telling their story this Christmas - the perfect
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unique Personalised Journal at www.fromyoutome.com
Tel: 01225 866225; www.fromyoutome.com

Willow Bottle Carrier

Alpaca walking socks

The team at PH Coate & Son are specialist Willow craftsmen with over 180 years
experience between them. We would like to present the perfect gift for friends or
family this Christmas. A strong, attractive, bottle carrier ideal for practical use and yet
elegant enough for display. Available in 4 or 6 bottle versions. Price: from 33.30
Tel: 01823 490249 (Mon-Fri 9-5); www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk

Treat your feet to a gorgeous pair of Perillas ulta thick alpaca walking socks - you will
feel like you are walking on a cloud! Alpaca naturally repels odour and bacteria, so
socks can be worn for a week without the need to wash. Choose from a range of 10
fabulous colours. Only 18.00.
Tel: 01886 853 615; www.perilla.co.uk

Handmade Hats from Foxs Outdoors

Quality outdoor clothing, footwear & accessories

The perfect headwear for the festive and winter periods. The hats are a wool/acrylic
mix, eece lined and handmade. There are 26 fabulous styles in 10 dierent colours
to choose from making them a perfect gift for friends and family alike.
RRP 24.99.
Tel: 01494 431431; www.foxsoutdoor.co.uk

Country Innovation is proud to present a stunning collection of high quality outdoor


clothing, footwear and accessories, all designed to protect you from the elements whilst
exploring the British countryside. This family run business based in Somerset has a wealth
of experience and knowledge, and have a whole selection of gifts to choose from.
Tel: 01934 877333; www.countryinnovation.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL

THE GREAT OUTDOORS


Make sure you have everything you need for your next
great British adventure, whatever the weather

2
3
4

7
5
6

ADVENTURER AVIATOR
SUNGLASSES
From 220, Silhouette
www.silhouette.com
Where would an adventurer be without
a snazzy pair of shades? Silhouettes
Adventurer Aviator sunglasses are light
and strong (as well as stylish!) making
them ideal for your travels.

REGATTA POINT 214


CARRINGTON 3-IN-1 JACKET
100; Regatta
www.regatta.com
A tough-wearing walking jacket
engineered specifically for demanding
days in the hills. The highly breathable
and lightweight Isotex 15000 outer is
waterproof and windproof. An insulating
Symmetry fleece can be removed during
high-energy climbs. Active stretch
yarns and a Performance Fit deliver full
mobility, with easy access map pocket.

ALPACA WALKING SOCKS


18, Perilla
Tel: 01886 853 615
www.perilla.co.uk
Treat your feet to a gorgeous pair of
Perillas ultra thick alpaca walking
socks. Alpaca naturally repels odour
and bacteria so socks can be worn
for a week without the need to wash.
Available in 10 fabulous colours.

TILLEY TEC-CORK HAT


69, Tilley
Tel: 01326 574 402
www.tilley.com
Tilley is best known for its outdoor
adventure headgear, but check out
their winter hats. The new Tilley TecCork Hat fuses classic Tilley design with
a revolutionary cork granulate coating
which is bonded to the wool blend
fabric, providing excellent lightweight
thermal insulation.

HELIONOX ONE CHAIR


89.99, DAC
Tel: 01494 733 814
www.foxsoutdoor.co.uk
Sitting is believing! A must for every
camper, traveller, cyclist and outdoor
enthusiast. Combines comfort with
an extremely low weight of 850gms.
Small pack size: 34cm in length pop
in your daysac! Made by DAC, leading
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145kg. 10% discount code CHAIRTEN

GILL WOMENS SPORT TOP


From 35, Gill UK
www.gillmarine.com
Whats underneath really does count!
Wear the Gill base layer alone as a
comfortable cooling technical layer,
offering 50+UV protection, or under an
outer shell for thermal insulation. The
range uses activated bamboo charcoal
which provides excellent wicking and
moisture transfer qualities, and is also
naturally and permanently anti-bacterial.

ENGLISH WILLOW
PICNIC BASKET
54.15, English Willow Baskets
Tel: 01823 490 249
www.englishwillowbaskets.co.uk
Hand woven with willow cultivated on
the Somerset Levels, years of willow
growing and weaving experience is
drawn upon to produce baskets that will
be treasured for generations to come.

TRAIL TREKKING POLES


From 65, Black Diamond
www.blackdiamondequipment.com
Trekking poles help with stability when
making your way up steep slopes and
are a vital balancing aid when crossing
rocks and boulders. For a lightweight,
all-round option try Black Diamond trail
trekking poles, perfect for short hikes
and week-long treks across the country.

Classifieds
AC C O M M O DAT I O N

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Twin/Double room from
Family room (3 or 4) from

L O N D O N AC C O M M O DAT I O N

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42 - 55
34 - 41
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MISCELLANEOUS

C A R R E N TA L

TO U R S

Parkers
Rent a Car
A Family Business

Very Competitive Rates


Fully Comprehensive Insurance
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Unlimited Mileage
Extensive Range of Vehicles
Manual & Automatics
Estates/7 Seaters/ Minibuses
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Something for everyone...


LIFESTYLE

FRANCE

IMAGING

INTEREST

REGIONAL

SHOOTING

Brochure by Return Air Mail or Fax

Parkers
12 Bridge Road, Haywards Heath,
West Sussex RH16 1VA
Tel: 01444-413672
Fax: 01444-417961
Email: hire@parkers-group.co.uk
www.parkers-group.co.uk
To advertise contact Dan Martin: 01242 264781; daniel.martin@archant.co.uk
Calls from North America: dial the country code 01144 and drop the first 0 in the UK number

Crossword
Challenge your knowledge of Britains history, legends and people with our puzzle page
ACROSS
1 Fair, novel by William Makepeace Thackeray (6)
5 Hampshire village where the author Charles Kingsley was buried
in 1875 (8)
9 Renowned Neolithic chambered cairn and passage grave in
Orkney (4,4)
10 Game bird found on Scottish hills and moors (6)
11 Cambridgeshire village where the Edwardian poet Rupert Brooke
lived in the Old Vicarage (12)
14 Seabird with long pointed wings and a forked tail (4)
15 Followers of the 14th-century religious reformer John Wyclif (8)
18 Central character in Shakespeares The Tempest (8)
19 Heraldic beast (4)
21 A devoted old married couple (5,3,4)
24 Matthew , poet whose works include Dover Beach (6)
25 Moss, RSPB reserve near Morecambe Bay (8)
26 A meeting for competition between horse-riders (8)
27 Estuary with a famous suspension bridge opened in 1981 (6)
DOWN

Think youve got all the answers? Well reveal the solutions to
this crossword in issue 185 (April/May 2015), on sale 18 March 2015
Solution to crossword in issue 179 (April/May 2014):
Across: 1 Baronet, 5 Staffa, 8 Acton Bell, 9 Goole, 11 Lundy,
12 Scots pine, 13 Ashley, 15 Wimsey, 18 Autumn, 20 Joseph,
24 Goldsmith, 25 Forth, 26 Thyme, 27 Beefeater, 28 Loddon,
29 Scrooge
Down: 1 Beagle, 2 Rotunda, 3 Nancy, 4 The Ashes, 5 Silsoe,
6 Augustine, 7 Florins, 10 Evelyn, 14 Hampstead, 16 Margot,
17 Loch Ness, 19 Tally-ho, 21 Horatio, 22 Gibbon, 23 Wharfe,
25 Fleur

country cottages (9)


17 Castle, Roman fort near Glossop in Derbyshire (8)
20 Wedgwood, eminent 18th-century potter (6)
22 A small stream (5)
23 River forming the boundary between Derbyshire and Staffordshire (4)
25 Linden , a poem by William Barnes set to music by

Vaughan Williams (3)

Can you nd the ve differences between these two images


of Barnard Castle? (answers below)

ALAMY

Spot the difference

2 Forename of the writer AA Milne (4)


3 Sir Alec , automobile designer who developed the Mini (9)
4 One holding and cultivating a small landed estate (6)
5 The London , tourist attraction constructed in 1999 (3)
6 The first battle of the English civil wars (8)
7 Greys, a famous regiment of dragoons, established in 1683 (5)
8 A gathering in Wales for competitions in music, poetry, drama, etc. (10)
12 Thomas , noted road, bridge and canal builder (7)
13 Location of Beatrix Potters house, Hill Top, in the Lake District (4,6)
16 Helen , a watercolour painter renowned for her pictures of

ANSWERS: 1.SMALL CLOUD MISSING 2.STAIRPOST MISSING 3.MISSING INFORMATION BOARD 4. RUIN WINDOW MISSING 5. HOUSES IN THE BACKGROUND MISSING
ANSWER TO WHO AM I? QUIZ ON PAGE 13: BARNES WALLIS

discoverbritainmag.com OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 113

Creative Spaces

Wordsworths House
Location: Rydal Mount, Ambleside, Cumbria
Owned by: William Wordsworth (7 April 1770 23 April 1850)

114 OCTOBER//NOVEMBER 2014 discoverbritainmag.com

a summers day in the garden, and the joy it


inspired in his daughter, Dora.
From the Drawing Room, the poet could
gaze across to Windermere, Rydal Water
and surrounding fells, but when at work he
preferred the quiet of the attic study, his
own addition. Today the house is open to
visit, with most rooms available to view,
including bedrooms and study. Along the
way visitors can see some of the poets
personal possessions, family portraits and
first editions of his work. Rydal Mount was
a former yeomans cottage and still bears
many of its original Tudor features, as well
as styles typical of the Georgian period in
the Drawing Room and Library (above).
The house was never so loved as the
garden, however. Across its four acres
Wordsworth created fell-side terraces, rock

pools and lawns bordered by rhododendrons


and rare shrubs. A visit today offers the
same assault on the senses. Perhaps the
garden and its unspoilt Lakeland views have
the most to say about their former owner,
who so eloquently expressed their beauty.
Tel: 01539 433 002; www.rydalmount.co.uk
ALAMY; RYDAL MOUNT; WORDS BY VICKY SARTAIN

he Cumbrian-born Romantic
poet resided at this fellside
address, between Grasmere and
Ambleside, from the age of 43.
It was to be his last residence following a
string of homes, notably his birthplace and
childhood home in Cockermouth (now run
by the National Trust), and the diminutive
Dove Cottage (Wordsworth Trust) in
Grasmere. Rydal Mount is today owned by
a direct descendant of the poet.
Wordsworths poetry was inspired by his
love of the natural world. In 1813 when he
and his extended family moved to Rydal
Mount, he had at last found a family home
which afforded him peace to revise earlier
works, such as Daffodils, and create new
poems, including To a Snowdrop and The
Longest Day. The latter was written about

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