THE WORLDS NO.

1 BEACH

P. 42

E nthusiast Travel Since 1981

the exotic

CARIBBEAN
YOUVE BEEN MISSING

BELIZE

CHEAPER THAN
AUSTRALIA

P. 26

SABA

(MUCH) QUICKER
THAN CROATIA

P. 52

DOMINICA

WATERFALL-IER
THAN HAWAII

P. 40

CONTENTS
DOMINICA P. 32

Jad Davenport loves

history and despises cruise ships. Till
he found one with
42 sails. He emailed
me that hed found a
time machine.

TAHITI P. 61

Tahitians open
coconuts with their
teeth, and staffer
Zach Stovall came
home with the proof.
I asked if he tried
the technique. Not
a chance. The nearest dentist in Tikehau is ... nowhere.

BELLE ILE P. 62

Move to Belle Ile?

Never heard of it,
nor knew that fish
could be either a gift
or a slap in the face
in France.

SEYCHELLES P. 28
TRINIDAD P. 44

Potholes. Cliffs.
Jurassic Park rainforests. Writer Ann
Vanderhoof thought
shed made a wrong
turn on her way to
to the worlds best
chocolate. She hadnt.

Staffer Jon Whittle

has been to the best
beaches in both the
Seychelles and the
BVI. His pick: the
Seychelles because
of the hassle of
getting there. My
response: Jon,
clearly you dont
have kids.
EDDY PATRICELLI

08

G ET H E RE
This path in Capri is just as
pretty as it is steep. Why wed
book a Bora Bora bungalow
right now. Camp in a van in
New Zealand, or sleep without a wall in Saint Lucia.

18

L I F E H E RE
Carpooling in Madagascar
doesnt involve stopping
at Starbucks. A Jamaica
local tells all, even a secret
about pork. The smell of
bacon continues in Bali.

26

SE E T H E WORL D,
N E V E R L E AV E
T H E CA RI BBE A N
Some of the photos in this
issue fooled our editors.
Like the Great Barrier
Reef, which has a nearby
twin (fraternal). So do the

Islands brand director

shares what went into
this issue, from those
who made it happen.

Seychelles, Fiji, and oh, the

photo at bottom right? Not
the Maldives.

32

CHASING TIME
Jad Davenport had one
distant destination in mind
when he boarded a tall ship
in the Windward Islands.
His discovery in the end
wasnt what hed had in mind.

30

16

44

THE HEART OF
CHOCOLATE
The best chocolate in the
world might not come from
Switzerland or Pennsylvania. It could be from villages
that few even know exist.

61

HOW TO ...
Crack a coconut (the Tahiti
way or the Barbados way).
Find a fixer-upper or a
beater on a French isle.
Play a familiar game on an
unfamiliar atoll.

42

ON THE COVER Sa n c t u a r y Ca p Ca n a i n th e Do m i n i ca n Re p u bl i c. Ph o to b y Z a ch S to va l l .

14
4 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS.COM

BRAND DIRECTOR

Eddy Patricelli

GROUP PUBLISHER

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Laura Walker

Laura.Walker@bonniercorp.com

Eddy.Patricelli@bonniercorp.com

Robert Stephens

Robert.Stephens@bonniercorp.com

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COPY EDITOR
INTERN
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

ART DIRECTOR
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CARIBBEAN /MEXICO / EUROPE

UNITED STATES

UNESCO World Heritage

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CARIBBEAN
HAWAII
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SENIOR ONLINE PRODUCER
SALES COORDINATOR

VP, DIRECTOR OF BRAND STRATEGIES

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Prepare to Surrender

CREATIVE DIRECTOR
CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR
GROUP MARKETING DIRECTOR

The French and British fought

CONTENT SOLUTIONS MANAGER

over St. Kitts for hundreds of years.

MARKETING MANAGERS

CORPORATE PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Today, its still the crown jewel

GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

of the Caribbean. And one visit will

capture your heart forever.

SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER

DESIGN SERVICES DIRECTOR
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EDITORIAL
Audrey St. Clair
Steve Spears
Cami Webb
Kathleen M. Kiely
Bronwyn Knight
Jad Davenport, Kaci Hamilton, Matthew Miller, Nathan Myers,
Jen Judge, R. Ian Lloyd, Ann Vanderhoof, Alison Wright
ART
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Lori Barbely
Zach Stovall, Jon Whittle
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Paula Iwanski, Advertising Director, 407-571-4605; paula.iwanski@bonniercorp.com
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ISLANDS NOW

WARMING YOU UP

DISPATCHES

MAUI My first double-digit

flight time 10 hours from

Orlando to Maui wasnt as
painful as Id been expecting.
My first nine-second zip-line
ride through the West Maui
Mountains, however, was just
the opposite. I mean, yeah,
the views were epic, and the
ride exhilarating, but when a
guide asks you to help with the
rope as another zip liner is fast
approaching, just say no ... unless youre into flesh wounds.
Editor Audrey St. Clair
JAPAN I could keep walking
along Otaru Canal, Hokkaido,
where buff rickshaw drivers
clamor for cruise passengers
like me. But Ive been tipped
off to something better nearby:
Sushiya-dori (Sushi Street).
Only sushi joints line this
uneven strip of asphalt, where
windows display plastic models
of roe, uni and unagi. Its the
Las Vegas Strip of sashimi,
and Asahi Zushi, a cozy den
where servers greet diners with
a collective hai, is my Bellagio.
Editor Shawn Bean
FLORIDA KEYS A recent
Finland-to-Florida transplant, I
had the Keys as a top to-do upon
reaching U.S. soil. I wanted to go
barefoot, drink in dive bars, see
the six-toed cats. Here at Little
Palm Island, though, its more
Top Chef than Cheeseburger
in Paradise; its braised short
rib, to be exact, slow-cooked for
three days. The six-toed cats
will just have to wait. Contributor Eeva Lhteenmki

INSTAGRAM

follow us: islandsmag

#ontopofmaui
Hovering, making our
way to a waterfall.

#caribbeancastles
Punta Cana wishes &
all-inclusive dreams.

On Aug. 5, we announced
our newest Islands on
Assignment trip: a cruise
through the Grenadines
with Sail Windjammer
and our staffers. Your
feedback helped sort out
some confusion about
the trip and gave firsthand insights about this
chance at a dream trip.

#yachtlife
Boating the BVI is like
skiing Aspen a must.

It wasnt as if I needed the calabash bowls. Just as I didnt

need the breakfast buffet, nor did I need the view atop
Gros Piton on Saint Lucia. At the mountains base, I meet
a woman selling the bowls in a shack. She offers me water. Actually, yes, I do need the bowls. Robert Stephens

LAID BACK

Lori Murray: This is

my supreme weakness
these tall ladies of
Windjammer! Youll never
have a better vacation.
Pam Schwartzkopf: Ill be
at the bar ordering drinks
strictly by color while my
friend is taking pictures.

Judy Garrison: Just how

quickly does this sail sell
out? I so want this!
Islands responds: Judy,
this is the first time were
doing this trip aboard
Sail Windjammer, but
since its a wonderfully
small ship, we anticipate that it will sell out
quickly. Book now at
islands.com/ioa.

GIVE BACK

BRING BACK

SOPHISTICATION IS

Kristina Miano: It
seems as though its for
professional photogs and
not civilian tourists. Is
this correct?
Islands responds: No,
anyone is welcome! Bring
your camera phone.

Jeri Gething: Id love this!

Big cruise ships, no. But
this would be awesome.
#ifoundit
Who knew Martinique
could be so exotic?

WHERE EVEN THE

4 hrs.
TIME IT TAKES ON SAINT
/8&,$723$&.',6$67(5
RELIEF KITS FOR LOCALS.
MORE AT HOPEFLOATS.ORG

A leisurely swim in sparkling

azure waters. A soothing massage
on your own private balcony.
An afternoon spent gazing at the
sun-splashed Atlantic with not
a cruise ship or a care in sight.
The Sands at Grace Bay offers
a soul-satisfying tranquility along
with inspired cuisine, considerate
service and as much or as little
activity as you choose.
U N S P O I L E D. U N C O M M O N.
U N P R E T E N T I O U S.

Providenciales Turks & Caicos

an exceptional all suite

beachfront resort

For reservations,
see your travel professional or call
1.877.77.SANDS (72637)
thesandstc.com

Capri

GET
HERE

Often overshadowed by
Capris Blue Grotto, the
Via Krupp footpath
offers views that rival it.
8 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

PHOTO BY CAMILLE MOIRENC

SIDEWAYS
DOWN
IF YOURE CURIOUS

This is the Via Krupp,

a footpath on the
south side of Capri so
precarious that falling
rocks often render it
closed. It was built in
1902 for F.A. Krupp, a
German steel tycoon
who used the path
to connect his luxury
hotel with his yacht.

300 FEET
DOWN, NOT A
SINGLE STEP
IF YOURE SERIOUS

Nope, you dont have

to walk back up. The
path takes about 35
minutes and ends at
Marina Piccola, where
buses and taxis await.
If the Via Krupp is
closed, the Giardini
di Augusto next door
offers photo ops like
this one, and sprawling
views of the Tyrrhenian
Sea. Look closely to
spot your yacht.

THE PATH WAS

DESIGNED
TO PROVE
THAT A ROAD
COULD BE A
WORK OF ART.

GET HERE

Maui

Bahamas
Jamaica

Anguilla
St. Croix
Saint Lucia
New Zealand

Ladera, Saint Lucia

STAYING IN PLACES LIKE

THIS WILL COST YOU,
YES. BUT HANG WITH US
:(.12:+2:
TO MAKE A SMALLER
BUDGET WORK TOO.

10 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

1.

SAINT LUCIA ON $575

Im floating 1,000 feet above sea
level, with nothing between me and the
Pitons. Not even a swimsuit. The plunge
pool of my three-walls-only suite at Ladera
comes with total privacy. And a hypnotic
view of those two massive volcanic peaks
and the swath of Caribbean beneath. Only
the kiskadees and bananaquits flitting past
can see me, and if they get too pesky, the
squirt gun that management has thoughtfully provided is always an option. Theres
even a mini waterfall just for me to splash
under. But after dark, I use the Big Dipper

close enough to grab from the night sky

and pour over my head. ladera.com
DOWN A NOTCH OK, so it lacks the luxe factor and the unbeatable view, but a soak
in one of the private, hidden-in-a-smallcabin pools at Diamond Falls Botanical
Gardens relaxes me to near-comatose.
Fed by hot underground springs, the
mineral-rich water is just the ticket for
muscles punished by a climb up Petit or
Gros Piton. If you dont mind a little company, opt for the sunlit, open-air pools.
Private, $7; public, $6; plus $7 for entry to
gardens. Ann Vanderhoof

Z AC H S TOVA L L

SIMPLE VS. HIGH LIFE

GET HERE

ST. CROIX ON $35

If its yellow, let it mellow. If its brown, flush it down,
reads a happy handwritten rhyme taped to the toilet in St.
Croixs Ridge to Reef Farms shared bathroom. I find everythings insanely happy here, from the sunrise yoga sessions to
the impromptu cuddle puddles after community dinner.
Students and tourists venture to this patch of Crucian rainforest to learn organic and sustainable farming techniques, and to
care for the island ecosystem; some come just to vacation. They
stay off the grid. They play bongo drums. Some have white dreadlocks. Theyre a little hairy, sometimes barefoot. They pick fruit
and veggies. They laugh. They sweat. They live free. Its inspiring.
But me? I stink. So badly, in fact, Im sure it could annihilate
the fragile sense of harmony theyre working hard to maintain.
As with the toilet, I felt a little closer to nature using the shower
sparingly. Which means not at all. Theyre so busy being happy, Im
not sure anyone notices. Thankfully. Camping from $35 a night;
private solar-powered cabanas from $125 a night. ridge2reef.org
UP A NOTCH Head to the isles northeastern side, about 10 minutes
from Christiansted, and it still feels remote and insulated. But at
the Buccaneer, youll get a shower, a toilet, even a whole beach, all
to yourself. From $271 a night. thebuccaneer.com Zach Stovall

RIDE IN STYLE
... OR NOT
Porsche vs. Chevy
Both will take you
on Mauis iconic
Hana Highway, but
taking those hairpin turns in a 1957
replica Porsche
convertible roadster is a whole lot
cooler. Its only
available through
the Four Seasons
Maui at Wailea, but
if you dont want
to spend $350 a
day to look good,
rent a Chevy Cruze
for $40 a day
and look average.
fourseasons.com

Ridge to Reef Farm, St. Croix

L E S S O N S L E A R N E D B E S U R E TO D O W N LO A D T H E S K Y WA L K A P P.
L I G H T P O L LU T I O N I S A B S E N T O N T H E FA R M . T H E S TA R S B E C KO N .

12 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

3.

NEW ZEALAND
ON $19
The Kiwi way is not fancy.
This is why, in addition to
hotel shuttle buses, camper
vans can be found like waiting gulls around the airports.
Most are used, slightly
abused, and often painted in
wild and colorful patterns to
cover wounds suffered in the
countryside. OUR FAMILY
RENTS ONE FOR AS LOW
AS $19 A DAY, AND THEN
WE TAKE OUR VACATION
TO A BEACH AT THE EDGE
OF CIVILIZATION. Or we
settle into a camp, where
like-minded travelers share
swimming pools, trampolines and chicken off the
barbies. The camps are cleaner and the vehicles smaller
than in other countries. If we
dont like the surroundings,
we just take our lodge somewhere else. Its turnkey
travel at its nest. escape
rentals.co.nz Larry Prosor
UP A NOTCH If the Kiwi way
isnt fancy, Blanket Bay
resort makes you wonder.
Located just 45 minutes from
Queenstown, the resort is a
modern take on a 19thcentury lodge. Just three
suites and ve rooms. Native
wood oors creak underfoot. Views of the Southern
Alps erupt from A-frame
windows. Lake Wakatipu
caresses a shoreline just
steps away. Sitting down to
a ve-course salmon dinner,
there are four forks to my
left. Kiwis arent fancy? From
$775 a night, blanketbay.com
Eddy Patricelli

LEFT: ZACH STOVALL (4); COURTESY ESCAPERENTALS.CO.NZ

2.

We see luxury through family eyes. And that means personal

attention, compliments of the Family Concierge program at
Paradisus Palma Real, a world class family experience in the
worlds most luxurious all-inclusive surroundings.
NEW lavish Oceanfront Family Suites
NEW Family Concierge Check In lounge
NEW dedicated Family Concierge restaurant
Pools & private beach areas with valet service
Life-Enriching activities
Paradisus Kids beach Welcome pack
Special in-suite kids amenities (robes & slippers)
Cookies and milk turndown service
Exclusive family activities and sports

For more information contact your preferred tour operator,

call 800.336.3542 or visit PARADISUS.COM
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

MEXICO

A Meli Hotel & Resorts Brand

COS TA RIC A (2015)

4.

$47K
Cost per couple
for Jamaica Inns
luxury package:
private jet, daily
massage, helicopter
ride, private butler,
personal concierge
UP A (BIG) NOTCH That $47,000

price tag for six days and

ve nights is summed up in
one word: private. Private jet
from New York, Miami or LA.
Private town car to Jamaica
Inn, where you meet your
private butler and concierge.
A private helicopter tour of
the islands north coast is followed by a private ve-course
dinner on the beach. Even 007
didnt have it this good.
STAY HERE, SPEND LESS Coughing
up ve gures is not a prereq
to visit. Nab a cottage with the
Dine Around meal plan and
do dinner in Ocho Rios twice
(dont skip Miss Ts, and order
the curry goat). From $494
a night. jamaicainn.com
Audrey St. Clair

14 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

5.

ANGUILLA ON $14
This British West Indies
isle is glam, no doubt. Its a
go-to haven for celebs escaping
the limelight, and known for
its gourmet scene at resorts
like CuisinArt (below). But
even the former sous chef
at Cap Jaluca likes to keep it
real, which he now does on a
daily basis, serving some of the
islands best food out of a truck
near the post office in the Valley. The $14 lobster quesadilla
at Hungrys Good Food rivals
other showier preparations,
and the goat soup (which I ordered only after a strong nudge
from a local behind me in
line) was surprisingly tender.
Best part, though? Taking all
of it with me to the beach and
plopping down on the sand.
hungrysgoodfood.com AS
UP A NOTCH Sitting at the chefs
table at CuisinArt Golf Resort
& Spa, I almost forget Im in
the Caribbean. Executive chef
Jasper Schneider meticulously
plates bites of fresh mozzarella
with chutney, artisanal sausage
on a bed of creamy polenta,
and technicolor ceviche with
microgreens and cherry
tomatoes from the resorts hydroponic farm. Wine from the
3,600-bottle cellar goes nicely
with the six-course spread, but
after dinner, strolling barefoot
on the beach, its time for a taste
of the Caribbean (aka, a glass of
pineapple-infused rum). Chefs
table, $175 per person. cuisinart
resort.com Erika Hueneke

Jakes, Jamaica

CuisinArt, Anguilla

LOBSTER: ISTOCK; JAMAICA INN: LORI BARBELY; COURTESY

HUNGRYS; STEPHANIE LESSER; ZACH STOVALL (3)

JAMAICA ON $95
Throwback Thursday
could be a permanent motto
at Jakes, a rustic, bohemian
spread of cottages on the south
coast in Treasure Beach. Between the Santa Cruz mountains and the Pedro Plains is
a spot devoid of high-rises
and Jet Skis. Here its about
watching local soccer matches
in the Sports Park, which Jakes
helped build; hiking through
time-worn villages; and having
old-school bartender Dougie
craft one of his passion-fruit
margaritas from pure juice
(not like in the States, where
its cut with grape juice). Here,
even Bob Marley isnt vintage
enough. jakeshotel.com

6.

CuisinArt chefs table, Anguilla

Jamaica Inn

Hungrys, Anguilla

BAHAMAS ON ZILCH
Ill leave you on Thomas Cay, says
David Hocher, owner of Staniel Cay Yacht
Club. Theres nothing there. When he
drops me on the beach with only a hammock and a fishing pole, my wish to play
castaway for a night feels ambitious.
Theres no one here no arguing
neighbors, no gossiping co-workers, but
also no chef and no bartender. I dont need
a maid to make my bed I dont have a
bed. On foot I explore the lagoon. Hungry,
I pull whelks from a tide pool, crush their
shells with a rock and use the meat to bait a
hook. True, this isnt everyones (nor even
my) idea of luxury. It isnt all-inclusive;
nothings included, and thats its advantage.
With no distractions, only sensations, I listen, smell and see. I feel my thirst and drink
water that tastes better than wine. The fish
I catch tastes good too, like survival.
Lying in my hammock, stargazing, Im
glad Ive had this chance to experience the
Caribbean in the rawest form thats left.
Yes, Im also glad theres a boat coming
tomorrow, but from now on, even
amid the most manicured resort
setting, the most elaborate
ocean-view dinner, Ill hear
these sounds and see what
hints remain of an islands
true nature. And Ill appreciate a pillow-top mattress a
little more. Matthew Miller

-
PRIVATE
ISLANDS
PARROT CAY
Despite its murky
start as Pirate Cay,
this Turks and Caicos
isle enjoyed a steady
turnaround when it
was redubbed Parrot Cay and people
started shelling
out the $500- to
$3,000-a-night
rates. Of course,
it wasnt just the
name change; the
private airport
transfer, outdoor
Jacuzzis, 24-hour
butlers and private
beach also helped.
parrotcay.com

LITTLE CAY
For the cost of a
suite at a Comfort
Inn ($155 a night),
you could rule over
this loose puzzle
piece among the
Bay Islands. It has a
furnished house and
cabin, all beachfront,
and has belonged
to a local family, the
Jacksons, for 100
years. Some people
rent their family cottage in Minnesota.
The Jacksons rent
their family island
in the Caribbean.
utilacayrentals.com

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 15

GET HERE

Trip Planner

WHERE WOULD
YOU VISIT AGAIN
AND AGAIN?
26%

Tahiti

27%

Aruba

12%

Aruba I went
there five times in
a year and a half.
Emily Allen

Jamaica

5%

30% Maui

Dominican
Republic

We asked our
followers which matters more: a resorts
beach or pool?

75%

Said:

WHERE WED GO ...

NOW

FEBRUARY

MAY

BORA BORA A short-notice Tahiti

trip? Ride with us. November is when
Tahitis most coveted (and costly) overwater huts enter affordable realms. Theres
also the Hawaiki Nui Vaa (Nov. 5-7),
the Super Bowl of canoe races for fit, tan
Tahitians. Photos from last years event demanded drool bibs for female staffers. ALSO
CONSIDER Bahamas. Its hurricane season,
but book late to pounce on a storm-free
forecast and save 60 percent at resorts.

TRINIDAD
No Caribbean
Carnival rivals this
one. The festivities take place Feb.
16-17, but to wine
in the streets,
you must join a
band (try carnival
tribe.com). No
musical instruments required,
just unabashed
hip shaking. ALSO
CONSIDER New
Zealand. Summers finale blends
warm temps with
wine festivals.

AZORES
These are the
worlds most
unsung islands
especially in May
when hydrangeas
bloom, says our
staff photographer. They must
be special. Weve
seen his yard. He
can pronounce
hydrangeas? Direct
flights from Boston
and Oakland. ALSO
CONSIDER Greece. A
May trip ensures
great deals and
empty islands.

Azores

Greece

Trinidad
Bora Bora

New Zealand

16 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

Lead time. Some travels

demand it. Lots of it. Take the
SALT Festival, an arctic event
that immerses attendees in
the worlds most barren and
cold landscapes. It kicked off
in northern Norway, on the isle
of Sandhornoya, Aug. 29. But
you can still catch it. The event
plans to run for eight years.
Yes, eight years. The festival
runs through winter utilizing
an outdoor film installation
thats said to be heated. All
I know is the events goal to
share how nomads in cold regions live in harmony with their
environments seems cool. So
cool that its website (salted.no)
left me shivering. Im grateful for the long lead time. Ill
need it to pack properly ...
for 2022. Eddy Patricelli

FROM LEFT: JON WHITTLE; ISTOCK; OPPOSITE: JEN JUDGE

NON-IMPULSE
TRAVEL

Try Not Having Fun on ...

BIG BIRDS
HAIRY BACK
BY MATTHEW MILLER

WHERE :

CURAAO OSTRICH FARM

I SCREAMED.

CONFESSION :

Hold on to the wings. Its the first time

Ive heard these words spoken to a human being. Hold tight! The human in
this case is me. When the ostrich handler
first asked if I wanted to ride his bird,
I thought, No, no, no. It seemed wrong,
riding a bird. But after reassurances from
the handler, I heard myself give in.
Getting on the ostrich is weird. Climb
from the open tailgate of a pickup onto
the coarse, feathery back, and straddle it
as if its a huge Thanksgiving turkey. Every cell in its tiny brain and every muscle
in its big, gangly body is dedicated to one
purpose: shaking loose my 170-pound
body. Frankly, I dont blame it.
Curaao Ostrich Farm offers sedate

Anguilla: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+264-497-2656
Antigua: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+268-462-9532
Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4816-8001
Aruba: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+297-583-4832
Bahamas: . . . . . . . . . . . .+242-377-8300
Barbados: . . . . . . . . . . . .+246-416-4456
Belize: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+501-207-1271
Brazil: . . . . . . . . . . . .+55-92-3584-1293
Chile: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+56-2-2232-5892
Costa Rica: . . . . . . . . . .+506-2257-3434
Curacao: . . . . . . . . . . . .+599-9461-3089

tours of its little piece of Africa, a grassy

landscape similar to the ostrichs native
habitat. At Zambezi restaurant, one can
sample ostrich meat no wonder the
next of kin under my butt wants to destroy me. The handlers run alongside me.
Im sure Im going to fall. But Im not sure
anything can make me stop laughing.

Dominican Republic: . . .+809-333-4000

Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . .+5932-2-228-688
El Salvador: . . . . . . . . .+503-2263-7799
French Guiana . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Grand Cayman: . . . . . . .1-866-478-3421
Guadeloupe . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Guatemala: . . . . . . . . . .+502-2277-9070
Honduras: . . . . . . . . . . . .+504-234-3183
Jamaica: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+876-952-1126
Martinique . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803
Mexico: . . . . . . . . . . .+52-33-3122-5551

Thrifty features a wide selection of quality vehicles. 2014 A licensee of DTG Operations, Inc., or its affiliates.

DO try iguana soup

at Jaanchies up on
the islands north
shore, in case ostrich wasnt enough
strange meat for
one trip.

Nicaragua: . . . . . . . . . .+505-2255-7981
Panama: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+507-204-9555
Paraguay . . . . . . . . . . .(595)-21-5197310
Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(1) 447-7118
Puerto Rico: . . . . . . . . . .+787-253-2525
St. Barts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590 52 34 06
St. Kitts: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+869-465-2991
St. Lucia: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+758-451-6150
St. Maarten: . . . . . . . . . .+599-545-2393

DONT stand in
an ant nest or turn
your back on an
ostrich (especially
one you just dismounted). Curaao
has a bite.

St. Thomas: . . . . . . . . . . .+340-776-1500

Tobago: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-639-8507
Trinidad: . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-669-0602
Turks & Caicos: . . . . . . .+649-946-4475
Uruguay: . . . . . . . . . . . .+598-2481-8170
Worldwide Reservations: 1-800-367-2277

To book online, please visit:

Madagascar

BY JODY MACDONALD

MASS
TRANSIT
IF YOURE CURIOUS

This is car-pooling
near Morondava,
Madagascar, in an area
known as Baobab Alley.
People travel between
villages on carts pulled
by zebus (humped cattle), passing enormous
Grandidiers baobab
trees, found only in
western Madagascar.

FOR CATTLE
ZEBUS EAT AND
DRINK LIT TLE
IF YOURE SERIOUS

Maintaining a paved
road is out of the
question in such a poor
country (the annual
per-capita income is
$250). Hotels advertise warm water and
fans when they have
them. Visitors take a
small plane to Morondava, and then embark
on a dusty ride through
this roadside spectacle.

BAOBABS IN
OTHER REGIONS
ARE BIG ENOUGH
TO BE USED AS
BOMB SHELTERS
AND PRISONS.

18 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

LIFE
HERE
Fewer than 25 baobabs
line the road. Most have
been lost to farming.
NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 19

LIFE HERE

Taste

A dollar or two buys a

midnight snack, but not
a table with a view.

SLEIGHT OF HAM
BY NATHAN MYERS

BACK ALLEY IN BALI

BEST BABI GULING

THE FIND:

Its 1 a.m. and Im on a motorbike, hunting for something that tastes like bacon.
I swerve past sleeping dogs and steer
into the guts of Denpasar: the part of
Bali where tourists never go.
When you reach that big statue, an
off-duty cabbie explains, follow anyone
on a motorbike. At this hour, thats probably where theyre going. To the bacon.
So I follow a random rider down a long
dark alley to a spot behind someones
house. A line of men smoking cigarettes
has formed. I tear Number 32 from a
dispenser, grab a wicker plate and wait.
No, thank you, I dont smoke.
This quest began a few weeks ago outside the Royal Palace in Ubud. I was sampling the famous babi guling at Ibu Oka.
(Babi means pig. Guling means roll,
like the turn of the spit.) Customers were
more interested in taking pictures of
their food than eating it. To me the food
tasted ... crowded. Over-photographed.
And so I started looking for the rustic

20 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

version of the roasted-pork dish. Balis

critics and cabbies led me here, to this predawn cookout in a whisper of a backyard.
No menu, just a plate. No cash register, just
an open fire. At 2 a.m. the pig exits the spit.
About a dollar fills a plate with bites
that taste like crispy bacon and ham.
Theres also gooey blood sausage, and
lemongrass with spicy sambal. Having
recently watched an older woman siphon
pig splatter into an intestinal tube, I
decide to skip the blood sausage. One bite
of meat later and this back-alley horror

RECIPES 1-2-3 The Bahamian boat captain, Julius, picks conch from a
watery garden. Fresh, he says. I can see that. But I cant see how it will become
conch salad in a few minutes. Julius shows me how its done. Lori Barbely

WHEN FRESH IS BAD

Dont rinse with

fresh water. Use salt
water the ocean
kind or your mix.

THE TRINITY

Keep the salad

stuff minimal. Just
onion, tomato and
bell pepper.

THE GLUE

Add orange juice,

finger pepper, salt
and black pepper. Ah,
fresh salad.

Z AC H S TOVA L L (4)

WHERE:

show evaporates into angels singing in

my mouth. I eat it all. Even the intestine I
said Id skip. Then I bum a cigarette.
At 4 a.m., two hours after opening,
this pop-up place called Mades Babi is
closing. They collect the wicker plates,
dump the knives in a big soapy bowl and,
before the smell of bacon gives way to
sunlight, there is no restaurant at all.
Just a few lagging locals rubbing their
bellies and smoking clove in the alley.
Before leaving, I compliment the
woman on her cooking and ask why she
doesnt open a proper restaurant, you
know, like in daylight. She just smiles.
Then she is gone. Its my cue to start the
motorbike and be gone too.
balis coolest place: islands.com

Best

to Live on

Quit your job.

Move to an island.
Be happy.

We show you how on islands.com/BITLO.

LIFE HERE

My Island

JUST DOWN
THE ROAD
OCHO RIOS: 10 miles

Montego Bay
z

Martha Brae River

Ocho Rios
z
Nine

Negril

Mile

Ivans

JAMAICA

Accompong

Port Antonio
Blue Mountains

Kingston
z
Reach Falls

Treasure Beach

OUT N ABOUT JAMAICA

A VOCAL LOCAL
SHARES HOW TO
HANDLE HAWKERS
AND ORDER THE
ISLANDS BEST JERK.

I grew up in Ocho Rios.

Some of my first jobs were at
hotels. Fear is what makes
visitors miss out. They rarely

Scotchies in Mo Bay is the

flagship, and still the best.

venture beyond their resort

and talk to islanders. If they
did, theyd be surprised.

carry baskets on their heads

in Accompong. In Nine Mile,
kids have no concept of iPads
because theyre climbing trees.
Treasure Beach is another
time capsule. The sleepy fishing village has cozy glamping
huts on the beach that start at
$40 for two (italrest.com).

Yes, hawkers bug tourists,

but they bug locals too. My

advice: Make eye contact, give

a firm response and convey
that all of you means No.
Walk beyond the tourist bar or
beach, and the hawkers vanish.
The Super Bowl Volkswagen
ad where a white guy spoke
in a Jamaican patois wasnt
racist. It was adorable. It

embraced our way of life.

There is such a thing as a
high-strung Jamaican. But it
KACI HAMILTON
AGE

33
OCCUPATION

Actress
FORMER LIFE

Entertainment
Coordinator, Grand
Lido Braco

22 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

tends to manifest toward trips

to the beach. Maybe politicians are high-strung, but I
dont know anybody who gets
worked up over serious stuff.
People associate jerk with
chicken, but pork came first.

Most locals prefer it, and they

dont eat it just anywhere.

The islands hilly interior is

where the real life is. Locals

Whenever I visit Port

Antonio, I expect it to have
transformed into a mecca of
all-inclusives. But it retains

a quiet serenity. Reach Falls

is a hidden gem. So is rafting
the Rio Grande. I always ask
the captain to arrange lunch at
Belindas. Best meal youll have.
I went to college in Alaska.
Four years. Five down coats.

There, nature is a beast. It can

literally devour you. So when
people visit Jamaica and are
scared to explore ... please. We
locals are thrilled to share our
home. Bears, not so much.

Reggaes
roots lie in
ska, and
its worth a
listen. Any
DJ worth his
mettle will
have it.
Just ask.

KNOWING
JAMAICA
The world can
name our athletes,
our music, our food
all from a tiny
island. Its why were
genuinely excited
when foreigners
show interest in
Jamaica. Venture
out, talk to locals
and get lost. KH

M A P : O L I V E R W I N W A R D ; G U I T A R : I S T O C K ; C O U R T E S Y K A C I H A M I LT O N

James Bond
Beach

east lands you on

James Bond Beach,
well beyond the
cruise-ship masses.
NEGRIL: For sunsets,
even locals do
Ricks, but along
that street
is Ivans. Same view,
no crowds.
MO BAY: Floating on
bamboo rafts along
the Martha Brae
River is a half-hour
drive away.

LIFE HERE

Live the Lifethe Life

KING OF THE BEACH

BY DEBRA BOKUR

Friendly & intimate resort located

at quiet Eagle Beach for some real me time.
Comfortable studios and suites, beach dining,
free Wi-Fi and warm smiles.

1-800-969-2310
www.amsterdammanor.com

Kampen Beach, ever hear of it? How

about Sylt Island, part of the North
Frisian group? It was a mystery to Greg
Baber too until he arrived near the
Germany-Denmark border back in 1975.
He found Kampen, home of the designerswimsuit crowd, and took charge of
keeping it ranked among Europes most
gorgeous beaches. Sometimes he looks
for driftwood on foot. Today hes in his
trusty truck, looking for a blemish.
Q: How does a Seattle guy become boss
of a remote island in the North Sea?
A: Well, there was this girl, of course. She

had a job on Sylt and I thought it sounded

interesting. Simple as that, Im here.
Q: And this beach job?
A: I started out cleaning the beaches and
BLUE RESIDENCES

picking up paper. The place is never boring. The storms here are ruthless.

This luxury condo resort offers 124 spacious

ocean-view rooms, suites and penthouses, most with
fully equipped kitchens. Amenities include an upscale
restaurant and bar, innity pool, spa and tness center.

Q: A classic tale: a girl, a

beach and ruthless storms.
A: Not long ago, a ferocious

1-800-728-4910
www.bluearuba.com

wave ripped one of the lifeguard stations completely

from its foundations, right
off the beach. Problem was,
the lifeguard was still inside.
Q: And it went out to sea?
A: Yep. The station was

being dragged into deep

water but in the process,
the station tipped over and

www.aruba.com

the waves and water pressed against the

door so the guard couldnt escape.
Q: You were watching this happen?
A: Oh, yeah. I ran along the shore, fol-

lowing it, and when a gust pushed it close

enough, some of us were able to get the
lifeguard out. It was a close call.
Q: Isnt Sylt a tranquil kind of getaway?
Because that doesnt sound like it.
A: Its gorgeous. But there can be wind.

You get the sand cleared from the walkways and then the next big gust arrives.
Or the beach is covered in seaweed. Every
morning I get up and wonder what Ill
have to deal with today.
Q: Ever think of moving closer to the
trade winds on a tropical island?
A: Actually, I did that. I lived on Oahu

years ago, but Sylt is inspiring. One sunny

day can make me forget all
about the storms.

Sylts
beaches are
dotted with
12,000
quirky
basket
chairs that
are also
exported to
Nantucket.

Q: So its unpredictable.
A: You see heather com-

ing into bloom, a rock that

rolled down the cliff during
the dark of night. Yeah,
every day is different.
Q: What about the girl?
A: Id like to thank her for

leading me here.
meet more expats:
islands.com/bitlo

COURTESY GREG BABER

AMSTERDAM MANOR BEACH RESORT

 2014 Aruba Tourism Authority

Happiness theyll
never outgrow

Escape the screens, the schedules, and the schoolwork. Take your family on a trip to Aruba, and escape the ordinary. From pristine beaches to
water sports and island adventures, Arubas got something for everyone. Make Aruba your familys destination, and book now at aruba.com

SEE
THE
W
... and never leave the Caribbean
Seeing Australias Great Barrier Reef in person has to be pretty close to the apex of
travel moments. It had better be, following a 30-hour itinerary and $3,000 in airfares
from the U.S. to Hamilton Island. But lean in here, folks. What you see on this page
isnt the Great Barrier Reef. Its the Belize Barrier Reef. Close your ears and open your
eyes. More of the worlds dreamiest destinations are closer than you might think.

26 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

GERRY ELLIS/MINDEN PICTURES

ORLD

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 27

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

THE BATHS, BVI

(or La Digue, Seychelles)

BEST OF T H E CA RI BBE A N YOUR FAVORITE BEACH RESORT: 1. BOLONGO BAY, ST. THOMAS 2. SANDS
28 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

British Virgin
Islands

Seychelles

T H E COM PA R I S O N

If the Seychelles are the Garden

of Eden, Anse Source dArgent
beach (below) on La Digue is the
proof. Its said to be the worlds
most photographed beach, and
was Islands first cover, in 1981.
Back then, the chance of an
editor mistaking dArgent for
another beach was slim. Today,
it happens lots as we search
exotic beach imagery online.

THE BATHS BOULDERS

LIE 8,287 MILES FROM THE
SEYCHELLES. Theyre just as

M O N I C A A N D M I C H A E L S W E E T/A G E F OTO S TO C K ; I N S E T: J O N W H I T T L E

big as dArgents (40 feet tall),

but more rounded. The Baths
have graced one more Islands
cover than dArgent, probably
because the Baths are just a
five-hour flight away. Oh, and
because we still mistake the two.

T H E C A S E F O R T H E BAT H S

Ive stood on these beaches,

and only dArgent made me
wish Id worn shoes. Theres
more coral in the Seychelles,
and more room to explore. Of
course, exploring is fun when it
leads to food stands that serve
bat. Where the Baths score is in
shade. Among its boulders are
cavelike passages to secluded
pools. No shoes needed. And
here, Ive never seen, or eaten, a
single bat. Jon Whittle

AT GRACE BAY, TURKS AND CAICOS 3. IBEROSTAR, MONTEGO BAY, JAMAICA

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 29

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

TRINIDAD OR
INDONESIA
Can you pick which taste isnt from Trinidad?

SEE FAR OPPOSITE FOR ANSWER

T H E COM PA R I S O N

Across Indonesias 18,000

islands are more than 300 ethnic
groups, along with a cuisine a
mix of Middle Eastern, Indian,
Chinese and European influences as varied as its people. Its
where nutmeg originated. So did
satay, meat on a stick. And really,
what rivals that? How about a
double from Trinidad? The flat
fried bread (bottom right) creates a sandwich of curried chickpeas and is the holy grail of the
Caribbean. And while Trinidad has
just 0.5 percent of Indonesias
population, its food ups its rivals,
adding Creole, Amerindian and
Lebanese flavors to the pot.

Trinidad

30 ISLANDS

Indonesia

NOVEMBER

O N LY O N E O F
T H E S E N AT IO NS
WA S L A B E LE D
BY A WRITER
AS THE PL ACE
WH E R E D IE TS
GO TO D IE.
H IN T: IT S TAR TS
WIT H A T.

6
Answer: Photo 5 is laksa soup from Indonesia.
N O. 5: M A S T E R F I L E ; Z AC H S TOVA L L (7)

T H E C A S E F O R T R I N I DA D

I can honestly say Id be

every bit as happy devouring a roadside breakfast bake
(bottom, far left) in Trinidad as
I would a five-course dinner in
Bali. The latter feels distinctly
more Asian, but Trini, with its
spices and curries, like curried
mango, pumpkin, goat and
chicken (above), doesnt seem
any less distant. And as soon
as a sada roti (above left) hits
my tongue, Id be hard pressed
to find a Bali food I like more.
Though if we were to change
the subject to scenery, well,
sorry, Trinidad. Zach Stovall

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 31

CHA

32 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

SE E T H E WORLD CRUISE THROUGH THE CARIBBEAN

SING TIME
A clipper ship sets sail to the Caribbeans
farthest outposts making time travel possible.
But embracing the past has its perils.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY

J A D DAV E N P O R T

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 33

St. Kitts

Antigua

Guadeloupe
Dominica
Martinique

was born 100 years too late.

I should have ridden a mustang
the four-legged kind on the
frontier, or chased pirates off the
Spanish Main. Life was somehow
richer back then, more authentic.
Instead, here I am stuck in the 21st century, where we sit in front of computer
screens and scroll through Facebook, our
sense of adventure reduced to watching
YouTube videos of dude-ranch roundups
and Googling cruise ships with wave pools.
My restless soul is the reason Im running down this dock tonight in Bridgetown,

This is how these islands were

meant to be seen. Its the nostalgic
dream to go back in time.

Barbados, dodging boozy cruise-ship revelers. Hidden somewhere among this

towering fleet of glossy megaships is
Royal Clipper, the worlds largest tall ship.
My plan is simple. Spend the weeklong
voyage through the Windward Islands
immersing myself in the golden age of
sail. Im intent on time travel. I want to
see the Caribbean in her glory days.
Theres only one problem. My ticket to
the 19th century leaves in ve minutes and
Clipper is nowhere in sight. Time, I dont
need to be reminded, waits for no one.
I spot her near the end of the wharf, a
sleek hull with ve masts delicately framing the only patch of Milky Way along the
whole dock. I bound up the gangway as the
crew tosses off the mooring lines.
Up near the bridge, the captain spins
the polished wheel and barks commands.
As we pass through the mouth of the harbor, sails bloom among the masts. Theres
a distinct boom as the wind catches canvas.
Clipper lurches forward and heels slightly.
Were moving now, faster and faster.
I cast a backward glance at the eet
in Bridgetown. The cruise ships lining
the port detonate with ashes of light. It
takes me a second to realize whats happening: Everyone is taking our picture.
dawn hasnt yet broken, and the sea
is as rumpled as a bedspread when I
emerge back on deck. Im too excited to
sleep. Its the rst full day and I want to
be up when we arrive in Saint Lucia. The
islands peaks and beaches are already
framed by our rigging and masts.
Im not the only passenger on deck.
Lewis, a retired aviation expert, leans
against the railing with a cup of coffee.
This is the way these islands were
meant to be seen, he says, nodding at Saint
Lucias distant silhouette on the pale horizon. I mean, thats the nostalgic dream we
all have, isnt it? To go back in time?
Hes right, but I remind him that

Saint Lucia
Barbados

IF YOURE
CURIOUS
Some sailing cruises
just raise the canvas
for show. The Star
Clippers eet uses
wind power at every
opportunity, and
its crews welcome
guests who really
want to time travel.
Ask to help with
shipboard tasks, or
head to the helm
and learn about
navigation.
IF YOURE
SERIOUS
Star Clippers threeship eet (starclip
pers.com) offers
Caribbean adventures (from $1,993
per person) and
voyages to the
Mediterranean,
Central America
and North Africa.
For the ultimate tall
ship journey an
ocean crossing
from Europe to the
Caribbean book
a berth aboard the
Barque Picton Castle
(picton-castle.com).
It targets wannabe
sailors who have
free time. As in
10 months.

Past and present

mingle on Royal
Clipper near Saint
Lucia (top right).

MAP OF CARIBBEAN ISLANDS WITH COUNTRIES, SINGLE COLOR: FREEVECTORMAPS.COM

Rush hour in
Soufriere Bay,
Dominica (below).
Giant chatannye
trees insulate life,
and stop time.

36 ISLANDS

Royal Clipper isnt quite the period ship

for a proper time capsule. She was built
in 2001 (albeit to classic designs), and
where the traditional clippers were rustic
bare-bones freighters, shes a luxury ship
from bow to stern. Shes got a three-story
atrium straight out of a DiCaprio lm, and
three swimming pools. My cabin may be
slightly smaller than those on megacruise ships, but its decked out in hardwoods and polished brightwork, and my
ensuite bathroom is trimmed in marble.
I decide to climb out on the bowsprit
pointing at Saint Lucia. Its a dizzying traverse, swinging over the railing and out
onto the netting slung below. As far forward as I can go, I lie facedown on the lines
and watch the slate water rush beneath.
It hits me. Im not just seeing the past,
Im hearing it. No throbbing engines, no
humming motors, only the wind moaning
through the lines and the gentle sigh each
time our bow rises and falls on a swell.
Silver ghosts torpedo beneath me as

NOVEMBER

small porpoises leap and spin before falling into our foaming bow wave, so close I
swear sparkles of water hit me. I stretch
my hands down through the netting as
though I can somehow touch their backs,
shiny in the rst morning rays.
from a distance theres nothing
about Dominica to break the spell of traveling back in time. The island is tall and
green, tinseled with waterfalls. Roseau,
the capital, is a port town barely four stories tall. As we sail past, I catch glimpses
of the tourist market behind the cruise
ships. Were headed 20 miles farther
north where there is no town, only the
semi-restored ruins of Fort Shirley, an
18th-century British garrison. Together
with a handful of other guests, Ive signed
up for a tour and a cooking class.
Im growing a pirate beard, says an
unshaven Dr. Lennox Honeychurch,
curator at the fort. A Russian billionaire
wants to show his kids the real pirates of

SURPRISES
AT SEA
GONDOLIERING
They make it look
so easy, those
gondoliers. Slow
speeds, a single oar.
How hard could
it be? Celebrity
Cruises lets you
nd out with an
afternoon of lessons in Venice. The
website tags the
activity as strenuous. Our editors
suggest a bathing
suit. $299, celebrity
cruises.com
SKY DIVING
Royal Caribbeans
promo video
asks, Have you
ever dreamed
of sky diving at
sea? Our answer:
no. But ying in a
clear, vertical wind
tunnel on Anthem
and Quantum of the
Seas does look fun,
and lets all ages
take ight. royal
caribbean.com

the Caribbean, so hes arranged for a picnic

here and Ill tell pirate stories.
He looks over our shoulders at Clipper,
moored in Prince Rupert Bay. Too bad
youre leaving soon. The Russians would
have loved the ship.
Their quest strikes me as tacky.
What theyre looking for is supercial, a
Hollywood past that never existed. If they
want to experience the past as it really was,
they should follow me, I think, as we head
to the kitchen, where a quiet grandma
guides me in a salad dressing recipe. She
says it was passed down from when the
maroons escaped slaves lived in villages hidden by steep valleys. With each
clack of her knife on the cutting board,
the aroma of a lost time wafts through the
kitchen sweet onions and ginger so fresh
I need to scrub off garden dirt.
Youre eating where the officers once
ate, Honeychurch says as we scrape our
chairs forward to a long table. Were far
from a modern cruise-ship buffet. No

THE CASE FOR

G O N D O L A : C O U R T E S Y C E L E B R I T Y C R U I S E S ; TO P R I G H T: Z A C H S TO VA L L

PA M P E R I NG
I dont do decadent. As I step
aboard the luxurious SeaDream II, a
fragrant cold towel appears in one
hand, a glass of champagne in the
other. I dont do decadent?
Ive slept in parks, lived off canned
tuna and hitchhiked just to rack up
passport stamps. A week tethered to
a Caribbean cruise smacks of velvet
handcuffs. But Im told this is yachting, not cruising. The difference?
Im not entirely sure. This ship carries
only 110 passengers. There are no
forced itineraries, and everything
from caviar-topped crostinis to daily
massages is included, no tipping. It
all sounds so ... easy.
Paul Theroux said, If youre
really suffering, then youre traveling. Ive lived by that mantra. But
three hours off Puerto Rico, I
question why. Im sprawled out on
my spacious bed following a dinner of chilled blackberry soup and
grilled lobster. Im scanning a list of
onboard activities. Morning yoga?
Maybe. Golf simulator? Sounds
like work. A oating water-sports
marina? Hmmm.
At breakfast, Werner, the sommelier, recommends the Italian
Eggs Benedict. I dont eat breakfast
when traveling; I skip it, often to
save cash so I can tip guides after
long hikes. But today I eat, savoring
a creamy Hollandaise.

Our yacht is anchored in the

USVI. I sit on the upper deck, gazing lazily at St. Johns Cruz Bay.
Its someplace new, yet Im in no
rush to go ashore. Guilt enters my
psyche, but Werner ushers it off
with a mimosa. I have nowhere to
be. I have nothing to do. And that
feels just ne.
I spend the second night under
the stars in a Balinese daybed
(above) and wake to the only item
on my agenda for the day, a massage. I havent looked into a single
shore excursion. Who am I? Where
is the girl who once got lost in Kathmandus Thamel district?
We tender in St. Barts, and the
crew packs for a champagne picnic
on Grand Saline beach. The old me
would have found three things to
do by 9 a.m. Instead, I spend the
day bobbing in the surf, buzzed on
bubbly and sunshine.
Sometime in the afternoon I lose
an hour perusing DVDs for a movie
marathon in my stateroom.
I am not suffering. A week ago
that meant I wasnt traveling. Today,
Im not so sure. There are many ways
to travel. Different, not less. But a
yacht helps. Kaci Hamilton
SEVEN-DAY CARIBBEAN CRUISES
(NEVER TOUCH YOUR WALLET) FROM
$2,799; SEADREAM.COM.

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 37

You know what I think? Levi says.

I think its easy to miss something
you never had, that was never real.
Alaskan king crab and deep-fried onion
blossoms with mai tais. Before us are
locally caught mahi-mahi and gardengrown spices washed down with harsh
local rum cut with cane sugar.
If I can taste a lost time in the old recipes, perhaps I can touch it too.
Youre looking for more old stuff? You
should go back there, Honeychurch says,
pointing to the jungle behind the fort. So
I forge into the forest and soon arrive in a
sort of Caribbean Angkor Wat. Fig trees
with buttressed roots strangle a commandants house. Anole lizards scamper over
chipped porcelain teacups. At the base of
an old battery where massive cannons
slump, I discover a saucer-size purple disk.
It shimmers when I hold it in the sun.
The size and weight feel familiar. Im the rst

38 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

person to hold the bottom of this wine bottle

in 2 centuries. This is the past Ive come
for, even if its in the form of broken glass.
Back on board, I climb up to the ships
crows-nest and gaze out at Dominicas
hills. A squall line advances down their
slopes, overtaking the last few swaths of
light shining on the sea. The sea-chest
smell of the decks wet teak keeps me
there long after fellow guests head below
to the piano bar.
Most of our time hopping between the
islands is spent under sail. Its fun for the
passengers, of course, says the captain,
but also economical.
Days unwind without many of the
guests even going ashore opting instead
for rum drinks alongside the ships pools.
But Im out searching for yesterday, and
finding it. I glide by kayak through an
untouched landscape of mangrove islands
off Antigua. I wander the narrow streets
of Les Saintes off Guadeloupe, and picnic
on the ruins of Fort Napoleon. The more
I search, the more I nd.

SURPRISES
AT SEA

CRAB: JON WHITTLE

SEAWALK
Perhaps railings
were a problem for
Princess Cruises.
On the Royal and
Regal Princess, it
has replaced railings on an upper
deck with a glassoor walkway that
arcs out over the
water. Guests get a
view of the ocean
128 feet down. Not
for the queasy.
princess.com
CRAB RACES
The closest thing to
casino gambling on
a Sail Windjammer
cruise is when the
crew lays odds on
10 crabs (some as
big as coffee cups,
and one the size
of a shot glass)
and turns them
loose on deck. First
crab out of the
hand-drawn circle
wins. We arent
sure what happens
to the losers. Book
a cruise with us:
islands.com/ioa

Then on St. Kitts, I hit real pay dirt. Its

late afternoon and Im riding the historic
sugar-cane railroad. Were clattering along
through elds of cane over trestle bridges
that seem to sway beneath our hurry.
Levi, the train conductor, is dressed in
an old-time uniform. He could be in his
60s or be much older. As he moves through
the car punching tickets, he chats with the
passengers about the sugar time.
I catch up with him on the platform
hanging off the caboose. He asks if Im
enjoying the ride. I am. I tell him about
how well my journey back in time has been
going from Royal Clipper to this train.
Ive managed to do the impossible, I
say proudly. Levi looks at me. Im waiting
for a pat on the back or a compliment, or
even a knowing nod.
Which is why what he has to say next
hits me so hard.
Why do you want to go back in time?
To see it like it really was.
He laughs. You think it was better
then, back in the sugar days?

In all my effusing on going back in

time, Id never dug any deeper than a
yearning for a nostalgia that was never
really mine to begin with.
Levi rescues me from having to confront the reality of the past: the slaves, the
poverty and the oppression.
You know what I think? he says. I
think sometimes its easy to miss something you never had, that was never real.
He taps his knee. I drove the sugar train
through the cane elds for 41 years. Back
then I drove the train with the clutch,
and now my knee, it dont work no more
because of that.
He waves at a couple of kids walking a
goat beside the tracks and they shout and
begin to run, waving. But they cant keep up.
Soon were around the bend, and the kids
and the goat are a memory.
Today is good enough for me, Levi
says. And why not? The sugar train, she
just keeps rolling, rolling, rolling. She
wont ever stop for no one. 20 best
caribbean cruises: islands.com/cruise

Thats 42 sails, in
case you wondered.
Levi (top left) drove
St. Kitts sugar train
for 41 years.

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 39

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

DOMINICA
OR HAWAII

Which one is wettest and greenest?

Even by worldly standards

Dominica is rugged and green,
thanks to 20 feet of annual
rainfall at some elevations. How
appropriate that on an island
where treehouses are its finest resort lodgings, crashing
water is responsible for its best
architecture. Wanna watch?
Whereas Hawaii has helicopters
and walkways to some of its
falls, DOMINICA REQUIRES

BOOTS. NOTHING HERE

IS EASY TO ACCESS, which
is why most people arrive on
cruise ships. (From Denver, for
example, it takes twice as long
to fly here as it takes to fly to
Hawaii, even though the mileage is about the same).

40 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

R E I N H A R D D I R S C H E R L /A L A MY; O P P O S I T E : J O N W H I T T L E

T H E C A S E F O R D OM I N I C A

Hawaii

Dominica

THE CAS E F O R H AWA I I / K AUA I

From above, its hard to tell

whether this shot was taken
over Kauai or the Big Island (its
Kauai), but without a doubt its
Hawaiian. Water tumbles in a
familiar pattern on the islands:
down, down, so far down that
you lose sight of it before the
splash occurs. Dominica may be
quiet and beautifully wet, but
Kauais Mount Waialeale draws
nearly 40 feet of rain per year
and then wrings it out in scenes
unlike anywhere else in the
world. Jon Whittle

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 41

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

THE BAHAMAS
(or the Maldives)

BEST OF T H E CA RI BBE A N YOUR FAVORITE ISLANDS FOR BEACHES: 1. ST. JOHN 2. TURKS AND CAICOS
42 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

Bahamas

Maldives

T H E COM PA R I S O N

The Maldives is the classic

wish-list trip, but have you
ever asked why? Its reaching
for the moon in travel terms
(9,000 miles from New York).
Its the thought of claiming
one of the archipelagos 1,192
sandy islands. Its ... well ... its
pretty much a snapshot of the
Bahamas out islands. Compared
to the Maldives (below), the

BAHAMAS HAVE TWICE

AS MANY OCEAN ACRES
THAT LOOK JUST LIKE THIS

J U A N C A R LO S M U N O Z / R O B E R T H A R D I N G .C O M ; I N S E T: A LT R E N D O N AT U R E / G E T T Y I M A G E S

(thats Exuma in the big picture

on the left). But the Maldives
dream trip includes something
unattainable in the Bahamas:
staying in one of its 3,000-plus
overwater bungalows, more
than anywhere in the world.

T H E C A S E F O R T H E BA H A M A S

Ive photographed 170 countries,

and the Bahamian beaches
are the most beautiful in the
world. Yes, Ive been to the
Maldives. Tome, the Bahamas
wins, hands down. The water is
gin-clear, youcan see 150 feet
down when snorkeling and
it doesnt take 24 hours to get
there. I dont understand why
so many people look way past
these out islands when planning
a dream trip. Jad Davenport

3. GRAND CAYMAN THE BAHAMAS WAS NINTH (PLACES LIKE THIS ARE STILL UNKNOWN)
NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 43

SEE THE WORLD GRENADA & TRINIDAD

THE HEART OF

GRENADA

STARTS HERE?
44 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

F R O M L E F T: Z A C H S TO VA L L (2); J E N J U D G E

CHOCOLATE

TRINIDAD
They both claim to be ground zero for the worlds most coveted sweets and at
least one of them is right. But to find the strongest evidence from Grenada and
Trinidad, we had to drive into unmapped places that few people know exist.

NOVEMBER

>

ISLANDS 45

T
Sweet
Indulgences
FARM-FRESH
ICE CREAM
Puerto Rico
The town square in
Lares looks entirely
edible. Pea-green
park benches. A
fountain shooting
water that looks
like rock candy.
Then theres the
ice-cream shop
and what sounds
inedible. Avocado.
Chicken. Corn (below). Fifty avors
made from scratch.
Close your eyes.
Open your mouth.
Its OK to love
carrot ice cream.

46 ISLANDS

he worlds best chocolate

Good afternoon, says Edmond, a
50-year-old
Grenadian whos as softmay come from a village so small theres no spoken as he is self-effacing.
one around to tell me its
His greeting is a contrast to my rst
population. This place in visit, when I was met by another of the
Grenadas hills, known companys founders, the idea-a-minute,
as Hermitage, is a scant ex-New Yorker Mott Green, who passed
22 miles from the islands white-sand away in an accident in 2013 at age 47.
beaches, but it sits on terrain that hides Motts rst words to me at that time were
mona monkeys and moonshine stills.
Good. You dont smell. But he was only
The drive to Hermitage is signicant looking out for the chocolate, which easfor me. Im an admitted chocoholic. And ily picks up other scents. He told me no
I am not alone. Americans as a group con- insect repellent or deodorant was allowed
sume more than 3 billion pounds of choc- on the job risky in the tropics, where
olate annually. The British eat, on average, youre bound to, uh, ripen during a days
nearly 25 pounds per person. Chocolate as work. This, he then said, is about maka worldwide industry is approaching $100 ing the best chocolate in the world.
billion in revenue. The very best on Earth
When you start a chocolate factory
does not arise from Switzerland or from a where the beans grow, you have to be
Godiva boutique. It just might come from creative and a little crazy. That described
remote villages on two islands in the deep- Mott. Inside, ancient chocolate machinery has been converted to run on solar
est part of the Caribbean. Like this one.
Getting here entails another par- power. Small propane-red cocoa presses
ticularly steep descent in my rental jeep slowwwwly squeeze the cocoa butter out
(whoa, baby!), slaloming past a pair of of crushed beans to leave pure cocoa
rickety rum shops and hanging a hairpin powder behind. The presses look like a
left. This puts me onto a road wide enough MacGyverish morph of a car jack and a
for Im being generous here perhaps medieval torture device.
1 skinny vehicles. One last hill later,
On this trip Im here to conrm a few
we rattle to a stop. This is the place. The things with Edmond.
Grenada Chocolate Company.
Did Mott really load bars into a dry
The home of perhaps the worlds best bag and sail them on a 13-foot Hobie Cat
chocolate bars looks like all the other to Carriacou? That 20-mile crossing can
small, brightly painted island houses I churn stomachs on commercial ferries.
passed on the way. Except it has a mural
Regularly, says Edmond. He even
of ripe cocoa pods snaking along its shed for tuna on the way.
second-story veranda, a small garden
And when Mott sent chocolate across
of solar panels sprouting in front and, the Atlantic Ocean on Tres Hombres, a 105when I unfold from the rental, an insane foot, traditionally rigged sailing ship (nochocolate smell better than 100 pans of carbon-footprint delivery), did he really
fresh-from-the-oven brownies.
go along for that ride too?
If the Grenada Chocolate Company
He made sure the chocolate stayed
were anywhere near the beaten path, it cool. Mott called himself the baby sitter.
would be smothered by hordes of chocThis radical plan of making organic
oholics. Theyd have to hang outside, chocolate in the backwoods breathed
though, because this entire factory is life into Grenadian folklore, and into the
so tiny it would likely t inside the lunch- local economy it created a home market
room at Hersheys Chocolate World. for small farmers. Other islands started
Edmond Brown greets me on the porch, to take notice, and suddenly a whiff of a
next to the delivery fleet: one minivan tree-to-bar chocolate rivalry was in the
decorated with painted cocoa pods.
warm Caribbean breeze.

NOVEMBER

An Island Icon
Mott Green wasnt
trying to forge a
name for himself
when he opened
the Grenada Chocolate Company in
1999. The island
people had already
done that for him.
When the New York
transplant moved
into a handmade
bamboo hut a few
years earlier, they
pronounced his
nickname Moth
as Mott, which
stuck. (His passion
for the environment inspired him
to change his last
name from Friedman to Green.) The
company itself had
nothing to do with
empire-building. It
was an outgrowth
of Motts concern
for farmers who
were in danger of
being exploited
for their precious
cocoa beans (they
instead became
GCC shareholders).
They now carry on
Motts legacy, one
that came, as all
legacies should,
naturally.

Grenada: It takes
ingenuity to turn
home-grown cocoa
beans into homemade chocolate.

Z A C H S TO VA L L (L E F T ); C O U R T E S Y G R E N A D A C H O C O L AT E FA C TO R Y; O P P O S I T E , C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: J E N J U D G E ; Z A C H S TO VA L L (3)

S TO R Y BY A N N VA N D E R H O O F

TRINIDAD

IF YOURE
SERIOUS
Grenada
The ride to the
Grenada Chocolate
Company has to be
the prettiest candy
run anywhere (go
to belmontestate
.net to book a full
tour). You dont
have to go all the
way to Grenada,
though. The bars
are often available
at Whole Foods or
amazon.com.
IF YOURE
SERIOUS
Trinidad
Its lonely in the
village of Gran
Couva, so workers
at San Antonio Estate greet visitors
warmly there are
tastings if you set
up a visit in advance.
Use Google Maps
to nd it.

48 ISLANDS

While islands like Saint Lucia tried

to catch up, the Grenada Chocolate
Company moved to a larger and faster
chocolate boat for interisland deliveries: a 30-foot catamaran with insulated,
solar-cooled storage compartments in its
hulls. The factory, however, has changed
little. When I look for my chocolate
fix, Edmond points me down the road.
Theres no room for a shop at the factory.
So I drive down the narrow road to
Belmont Estate, where 100,000 pounds of
organic cocoa beans are grown each year. I
tuck into a sample of a Nib-A-Licious bar.
Its 60 percent dark chocolate studded
with crunchy bits of roasted cocoa beans
(called nibs). Its silky, rich and deeply
chocolate. I let it melt on my tongue. The
sign in front says: Organic Chocolates.
Finest in the World HERE. No way am I
disagreeing. Not yet anyway.
ninety miles and one island to the
south, Im on another rugged ride. Tell

NOVEMBER

Sweet
Indulgences
FROZEN
PEANUT PUNCH
Saint Lucia
This is the brainfreeze version of
the popular Caribbean drink. Dont
expect a tidy popsicle though: The
creamy, nutty treat
spiked with vanilla
and nutmeg comes
tied in small plastic
baggies. Consume
it as the locals do:
rip open a corner
with your teeth and
suck out the slushy
contents. Instant
cool-down. Makes a
great blender cocktail with rum too.
TORTUGA
RUM CAKE
Grand Cayman
One of our favorite
Cayman beaches is
Rum Point. Favorite
drink? Banana rum.
So of course we
drool over dessert
glazed with 5-yearold rum thats
retrieved from an
oak barrel. The cake
supposedly keeps
for a year. With us it
lasts 10 minutes.

Maracas Beach
faces north toward
Grenada and backs
into Trinidads
hidden wonders.

Z AC H S TOVA L L (2); O P P O S I T E : J E N J U D G E

GRENADA

the Grenadians that the worlds best chocolate starts here, says my guide, Jesse.
And I have it from the lions mouth.
The lion is Mr. Mars of the
Mars Bar and Milky Way dynasty. A few
years ago he visited Trinidad, and Jesse
escorted him for a day.
He said he wanted to see where the
worlds best-quality cocoa came from.
Right here. So take that, Grenadians.
It might seem to be an unfair fight.
Trinidad is 14 times the size of its pesky
upstart to the north, and its best chocolate comes from more than one spot on
the island. But the disparities end there.
The world-renowned chocolate is no easier to nd here on Trinidad than it is on
Grenada. It might, in fact, be harder.
If you can locate Gran Couva, smackdab in Trinidads rural middle, youve
located the mother lode of the islands
cocoa estates including the largest in
the entire English-speaking Caribbean.
Deh countryside, as Jesse calls it.
The beans are so coveted that almost all
are exported. Meaning I wont nd chocolate actually made in deh countryside.
Instead, I follow another lead into
the islands concrete jungle: the capital,
Port of Spain. The route winds past culinary potholes Charlies Black Pudding
Sausages, The Cow Heel Soup Centre
and deposits me on a side street of gingerbreaded wooden houses. Tucked among
them is a handsome new one. Theres no
sign proclaiming worlds best chocolate,
nor is there a delicious smell. I ring the
bell and the gate clicks open.
Inside the house is a gallery of edgy
Trinidadian art. But hidden behind tall
wooden doors at the back is a space that
makes the Grenada factory look palatial.
This kitchen is where 34-year-old Isabel
Brash makes chocolate from scratch.
Try a roasted cocoa bean, she urges,
popping one into her own mouth.
Isabel says she just pulled a chocolate
all-nighter in her cramped workspace.
But the kitchen is actually a giant step up.
Three years ago, she was running Cocobel
Chocolate out of her parents apartment,
expropriating her mothers oven to roast

Sweet
Indulgences

50 ISLANDS

cocoa. All of the beans that go into her

chocolate come from one small estate:
her brothers, at the bottom of the island.
(Any farther south, and youd be swimming the channel between Trinidad and
Venezuela.) Rancho Quemado is so out
of the way that many Trinidadians dont
know where it is. I cant nd it on my map.
To fill and flavor the chocolate she
makes from beans originating from that
mystery locale, Isabel cooks up crazywild combos mango and hot pepper,
pineapple and chadon bene. Then she
molds the chocolate into unique shapes.
(She was an architect until chocolate took
over her life.) Wilder still, she tops some
with miniature abstract paintings done
in teensy strokes of colored cocoa butter.
Biting into one feels like Im desecrating
a piece of ne art. But its worth it.

NOVEMBER

I have a jumbie, she confesses. Im

really obsessed with chocolate. Allnighters are not unusual, she says.
So all the beans come from your
brothers place? I ask.
No. I make chocolate for a friends
business too. For that I blend these beans
with beans from the mountains. From
outside a village called Brasso Seco.
Which is on the map. Barely.
Brasso Seco is so isolated that electricity couldnt nd it until the late 1990s.
The single-lane prayer of a road tumbles
precipitously into jungle-thick rainforest
on one side, sheer cliff on the other, with
monster potholes that threaten to devour
my rental. No wonder only 50 foreign visitors make it here a year.
And thats a really good year, says
community information officer Kelly

MANGO JELLY
Bay Islands
The man in the yard
is cooking over
a barrel, among
strewn sticks and
mango peels. He
says hes making
jelly, though its
hard to tell. (Have
you ever seen jelly
being made outside?) He offers a
taste. Wow. Theres
a hint of hot pepper.
But thats sweet
jelly all right.

A B O V E : J E N J U D G E ( 3 ) ; J E L LY : I S T O C K ; V A N I L L A : J O N W H I T T L E

Trinidad: Worldclass cocoa beans

are cut by machete
and dried outside.

TAMARIND BALLS
Tobago
Think SweeTarts for
grown-ups. Its a
blend of sugar and
super-tart tamarind
pulp. Sometimes
the balls are
formed around a
tamarind seed
perfect for a seedspitting contest.

THE CASE FOR

VA N I L L A
You can probably guess Americas
favorite avor of ice cream. Thats
right: not chocolate. Ive never
understood why the No. 1 avor,
vanilla, gets such a bad rap as being
so vanilla. Yes, I have regular cravings for chocolate, but I give vanilla
its love too. In the Caribbean I buy
extract not by the teensy bottle,
but by the pint.
Which is why, traveling in Guadeloupe, I quickly lock onto the scent
in the bustling spice market in the
islands largest city, Pointe--Pitre.
The tables groan under pyramids of
dark, supple vanilla beans. I home in
on one bottle standing near a vanilla
display: Sirop de Pied de Cheval
Horse-Hoof Syrup. Before I can
inquire about it, the madras-aproned
market lady thrusts a vanilla bundle
under my nose, the heady perfume
almost knocking me over. Surely not
grown on Guadeloupe.
Mais oui, she says, digging
out a map from below her table. Her
nger circles around Basse-Terre, the
western half of the island. The plantations are here, in the mountains.
Quelle surprise. Madagascar and
Indonesia may be the biggest vanilla
producers in the world, but Guadeloupe holds the 12th spot. Its 11 tons
a year might pale in comparison to

Madagascars harvest of 3,500 tons,

but thats still a lot of beans for an
island half the size of Rhode Island.
Smell, she urges. It is diffrent,
no? Frankly, with no other vanilla
here to compare, the difference
between these beans and those
from, say, Tahiti or Mexico is lost
on me. All I know is that picking up
the beans has turned my ngers
irresistibly delicious.
I happily fork over 10 euros
(about $13) for a bundle a bargain
compared with the price of imported beans back home. Vanilla is the
worlds second most expensive spice
(after saffron) because growing it is
beaucoup work. The owers must
be individually pollinated by hand,
and each one yields just one pod
which is then cured for several
months. Straight off the vine, vanilla
has neither fragrance nor avor.
With my bounty, I plan to turn
plain, boring rum into vanilla rum.
(Recipe: 1 bean + 1 bottle white rum
+ 1 week = vanilla rum.)
And that Horse-Hoof Syrup?
I leave it behind for the next
customer. Its an aphrodisiac, the
market lady tells me, before adding,
but so is vanilla.
Chocolate has nothing on
vanilla. AV

Fitzjames, surprised to see me.

She leads me slipping and sliding
along a mucky track through cocoa trees
festooned with chocolate in the raw: deep
burgundy and brilliant orange and yellow
football-shaped pods. Theyre gorgeous. I
just wish Id worn my wellies.
But for all the beauty of nature,
theres no finished chocolate here. (It
would melt by the time it got out on that
road.) The irony is that most locals have
never even tasted the bars made from the
world-acclaimed beans that grow in their
own neighborhood.
Kelly offers spiced cocoa sticks instead.
We grate them to make cocoa tea, she
says. Later, away from the stiing heat, I
take a drink made from the sticks. This
could be the worlds best hot chocolate.
trinidads best foods: islands.com

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 51

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

SABA ISLAND
(or Hvar, Croatia)

BEST OF T H E CA RI BBE A N YOUR FAVORITE CRUISE LINE: 1. ROYAL CARIBBEAN 2. CARNIVAL 3. SAIL
52 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

Hvar

Saba

T H E COM PA R I S O N

The $8 ferry ride from mainland

Croatia to Hvar (below) drops
visitors into an Adriatic harbor
that starts to match the
postcards at the gift shops
and youll find plenty of those.
Craggy landscape. Palm trees
and olive trees. Marble streets.
Architecture galore. No wonder
Jay Z and Beyonce make the trip
so often. OR THERES THE

12-MINUTE FLIGHT FROM

ST. MAARTEN TO SABA

D O R L I N G K I N D E R S L E Y/A L A MY; I N S E T: C E D R I C A N G E L E S / I N T E R S E C T I O N P H OTO S

(plane capacity: 16 passengers).

It comes to a screeching
halt on the worlds shortest
commercial airstrip. Good
luck finding a postcard of Saba
(thats it on the left), where
fewer than 2,000 people live,
and tourism is whats tourism?

T H E C A S E F O R SA BA

Saba made me laugh right out

of the airport. One empty road.
Dogs doing synchronized belly
rolls. The island is so ridiculously
scenic and impossibly green, I
could spend a month looking
atthe ocean from the top of
the hill. (The town at the highest
point is called The Bottom; where
else do you find that?) Hvar is
pretty and incredibly crowded.
Saba, in my mind, is what life
should belike: a simple paradise.
Edward Readicker-Henderson

WINDJAMMER SEE WHY SAIL WINDJAMMER RANKS SO HIGH: ISL AN DS.COM/IOA

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 53

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

JAMAICA OR
ZANZIBAR
Can you tell which photos are from where?

SEE FAR OPPOSITE FOR ANSWER

T H E COM PA R I S O N

From the pointy stance of the

worlds fastest man (Usain Bolt)
to the spicy flavor of its jerk
chicken, Jamaica has unmistakable trademarks. Even the
bold colors and smoky smell
of its homegrown religion are
unique. So much so, its no
surprise other island nations
like Zanzibar have adopted the
Rastafari movement, spread
through reggae music. After all,
Rastas regard Ethiopias once
emperor Haile Selassie, known
as Ras Tafari, as God and believe
the African continent is heaven.
Zanzibars not far from it, and its
beaches make believers.

55

TWO OCEANS
S E PA R AT E T HESE
IS L A N D S, B U T
H IS TO R Y A ND
THE REGGAE
MOVEMENT
B IN D T H E M. SO
D O LO O K-AL IKE
S H O R E LIN E S.

Answer: photos 1, 4 and 5 are from Zanzibar.

Z AC H S TOVA L L (6)

T H E C A S E F O R JA M A I C A

People ask if I hate Jamaica after

traveling there almost 20 times.
Truth is, I dont think theres any
island as great at making me feel
good. Though people like Muidy
(above), my friend in Zanzibar,
come close. Joining him to listen
to Bob Marleys Jamming on
Jambiani Beach (top left), which
is like a stunt double for Negrils
Seven Mile (right), just wasnt
quite as nice. And, sure, maybe
thats because a Red Stripe
tastes sweeter than a Serengeti
when its served 8,000 miles
closer to home. ZS

Jamaica
Zanzibar

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 55

CARIBBEAN VS.
THE WORLD

BONAIRE OR FIJI
Can you pick which image is from the Caribbean?
THE CASE FOR FIJI

Bonaire
Fiji

56 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

Fijis underwater world (above) is

like a baroque fantasy. Clouds of
anthias and damselfish obscure
the details of the reefs, covered
as they are in rainbows of soft
coral think hot pink, yellow
and red stalks, waving like fields
of technicolor kale. And Fiji
delivers bucket-list big boys too:
blacktip, whitetip and gray reef
sharks are common sights, even
on casual snorkeling excursions.

BONAIRE IS
THE TOP OF A
SUBMERGED
MOUNTAIN.
EPIC DIVES LIE
200 YARDS OFFSHORE. OF ITS 86
SITES, 53 DONT
REQUIRE A BOAT.

THE CASE FOR BONAIRE

Why would I pick Bonaire to

counter Fijis snorkeling? It has
the Caribbeans healthiest reefs,
period (right). The government
established the Bonaire National
Marine Park in 1979, protecting
6,672 glorious ocean acres. The
result? Healthy stands of elkhorn coral, and prolific marine
life like grunts, angelfish, butterflyfish and the occasional passing manta. Rebecca Strauss

STEPHEN FRINK/GETTY IMAGES; OPPOSITE: SEAPICS.COM

BEST OF T H E CA RI BBE A N YOUR FAVORITE SNORKELING ISL ANDS: 1. USVI 2. CAYMAN 3. BVI
4. BAHAMAS 5. BELIZE FIND MORE AT ISL ANDS.COM/BOC

S P E C I A L P R O M O T I O N A L F E AT U R E

A GRAND TRIO:
The Cayman
Islands
REASONS TO LOVE THIS
CARIBBEAN DESTINATION

Beaches

Its on nearly every postcard: Seven Mile Beach is that idyllic, wide
swath of white sand spanning Grand Caymans west side. Kids splash in
the breaking waves. Adults take advantage with long walks. Honeymooners
lounge, soaking up the sun or taking in one of the Caribbeans best sunsets.
This is the most popular beach pick, but its far from the islands only. Walk
or ask your cabbie to take you to Cemetery Beach, an excellent snorkel
spot. Smith Barcadere is a favorite among visitors and locals alike. But for
the most secluded beaches, hop over to Little Cayman and borrow a kayak
to explore Owen Island; there, your only company will be passing southern
stingrays.

Water sports

If it seems like almost everyone in the Cayman Islands spends happy

hour gabbing about turtle sightings and wall dives, its because they do. A
favorite pastime in the Cayman Islands is scuba diving, and this trio of islands
has 365 named sites including wrecks like M.V. Captain Keith Tibbetts
off Cayman Brac seemingly endless reefs and those world-famous walls.
But theres more than one way to enjoy the calm, clear waters. Along Seven
Mile Beach, you can paddle-board, parasail, snorkel or kayak. Head to Kaibo
Beach Bar, located at the eastern end of the North Sound, for kiteboarding
lessons or just to watch wave riders catch air.

Cuisine

In a beautiful destination with exceptional cuisine, no palate will

be disappointed. With more than 200 restaurants from ne dining to
beachside fare the Cayman Islands has become regarded as being the
Culinary Capital of the Caribbean. Blue Cilantros ever-changing menu of

Indian-infusion dishes includes items such as diver scallops with tomato

chutney. Blue by Eric Ripert specializes in tasting menus with experiences like
raw tuna paired with foie gras. For those wanting to keep it simple, Macabuca
Bar & Grill offers a Monday-night all-you-can eat barbecue special with ribs,
chicken, pasta and more. And of course, eat like the locals do and grab some
classic Caymanian cuisine at Grape Tree Cafe fried sh with fritters are a
must-have! Regardless of where you end up, youll wish you could stay longer
to explore more of the delicious cuisine of the Cayman Islands.

Nightlife

Accommodations

Think the beach is only for daytime fun? Check out Calico Jacks fullmoon parties and youll nd that the shore can be just as hot at night. For that
toes-in-the-sand, beer-in-hand relaxed vibe, head to Royal Palms, where live
music is often part of the scene. Want to skip the sand? Then head inland for
wine bars, like West Indies Wine Company, where you can sample one-, threeor ve-ounce pours, plus craft beers and dont forget the bubbles! Those
with energy to spare can mingle late into the night at several spots, including
Obar Nightclub with DJs and a packed dance oor.

Yes, there are hotels with room service. Yes, there are villas with
kitchens. These islands offer a mix of accommodation choices to satisfy every
style of traveler. Dive resorts allow you to roll out of bed and right onto a reefbound boat. Hotels and a large selection of condominiums throughout all
three islands provide outstanding ocean views while putting you no more than
a few paces from the sand. On Cayman Brac, those seeking pure solitude
can rent a guesthouse where the only sounds are waves, birds and falling
coconuts. www.caymanislands.ky

WELCOMING YOU WITH WONDER.

THATS CAYMANKIND.

In the Cayman Islands, youll discover a divers delight: vibrant coral vistas, thriving
wrecks, rare sponges and other special species. Whats more, youll find them all just a
few feet from our shores. Whether youre an experienced explorer or its your first time
in fins, our seasoned operators are available to assist on any adventure. With a different
dive for each day of the year, our sunken sights are sure to thrill every traveller.

A WORLD AWAY. JUST ONE HOUR FROM MIAMI.

WWW.CAYMANISLANDS.KY
ISLAND: GRAND CAYMAN
SITE NAME: AMPHITRITE, SIREN OF SUNSET HOUSE REEF
PHOTO BY: STEPHEN FRINK

TAKE YOUR DREAM

TRIP WITH US

(AND SHOOT AMAZING PHOTOS

TO KEEP FOREVER)

ON ASSIGNMENT

2015

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Special Offer: A limited number of passengers can sign up
for $2,479+ (your guest gets a rock-bottom discount).
C L A I M A S P O T: I S L A N D S .C O M / I O A

HOW TO

BARBADOS METHOD
There are exactly three emergency situations that demand you
open a coconut: 1) The grocery
store is closed or theres been a
tremendous spill in the specialtydrinks aisle. 2) Your plane has
crashed and its not quite time to
start eating your friends. 3) You
have rum, its happy hour, and
youre low on mixers.
Thats why Im with Brian
de Action Man Talma at Silver
Sands Beach in Barbados for a
private demonstration of Bajan
coconut ingenuity. Hes a man of
action an Olympic windsurfer,

Certain situations
demand you open a
coconut ... a spill in the
specialty-drink aisle.

TWO WAYS TO
CRACK COCONUTS
TAHITI METHOD

FROM TOP: CEDRIC ANGELES/INTERSECTION PHOTOS; ZACH STOVALL

TWO GUYS
SHARE THEIR
SECRETS
WITH A
STAFFER. WE
SAY THEYRE
BOTH NUTS.

1 PICK YOUR NUT 2 GET HUSKY

3 CRACK IT UP

OK, once youve

climbed 30 feet up
the coconut tree
with nothing but
bare hands and
feet (splinter!),
the yanking of the
coconut is pretty
easy. TECHNIQUE
Twist. Dont pull
(its a long fall; just
ask Keith Richards). Option B is
to find a 30-foot
pole and whack a
nut until it falls.
Option C is to sit
and wait, maybe
hours, days or
weeks, for the
nut to drop down
on its own.

If you just want the

water, use a stick
to poke into the
softest of the nuts
three eyes and tilt
er back. If its the
meat you want,
grab a demolition hammer or
a quarter-stick
of dynamite. If
unavailable, use
a coconut tree.
TECHNIQUE Smash
the nut (really a
drupe, but that
sounds insulting)
against the trunk,
rotating so it
cracks evenly. Use
your thumb to peel
the meat and eat.

If you managed to
avoid injury picking the nut, this
next step certainly
wont please your
dentist. TECHNIQUE
Find a sharp stick
to pry the first
bits of husk away
from the crown.
Use your teeth to
clamp down on a
bit of pried husk,
and then pull the
coconut away from
your mouth with
your hands. Repeat
until the nut is
free, your teeth fall
out or some other
unscheduled dental
visit is needed.

pro kiteboarder and coconut

husker but more so because
he says the word action lots. It
comes out as ak-shun, with his
Bajan staccato, and is more often
an exclamation than a noun.
This husk is really hard,
Brian tells me as he uses two hands
to bash a brown coconut onto a
pickax half buried in the sand.
The easy way is to get a pick
or a hoe that has a hard edge.
He peels a wedge of husk away. It
sounds like hes tearing paper.
Lemme tell you, if you hit it
on the ground, no action, he continues. Its easy once you know.
When the husk is torn off, he
taps around the nut on the sharp
edge of a spade, then smashes
it against the flat edge. The top
pops off. Action! Then he shows
his teeth in a wide Bajan smile.
No wonder he opted out of the
Tahitian method. Zach Stovall

COCONUT
HOW-TO VIDEOS
See our Bajan and Tahitian pros
open their coconuts at
islands.com/travelvideos.

LESSONS LEARNED IN SUMATRA, FARMERS USE TRAINED MONKEYS TO PICK COCONUTS FROM TREES.

NOVEMBER

ISLANDS 61

HOW TO

Belle Ile

LIVE ON

A FRENCH ISLE
PART-TIMERS LOOKING FOR A SIMPLE EUROPEAN LIFESTYLE

For the heck of it, while backpacking Europe

in 1980, my wife and I took a ferry to this rugged little island called Belle Ile, 10 miles off the
coast of Brittany. We arrived at 9 p.m., with
nowhere to go and not a taxi in sight. It was
the perfect introduction. The simple island
name seeped into every detail around us. The
harbor. The homemade hard cider. The DIY
homes. It seeped into us too, and we bought
our own ruin five years later in a village split
between Parisians en vacance and islanders
known as insulaires. DAILY SNAPSHOT We plan
our day by listening to the waves from our
pine-paneled upstairs bedchamber. We either
load up the old beater Renault with our beach
toys, or we pack chocolate and water for a long
bike ride. Along the bike route well pause for
a jambon-oeuf-fromage galette at a waterside

The 4,900 year-round residents head to the

hills when the harbors get busy in July.

creperie. Then we leave the bikes in a ditch and

hike the cliffs and swim in steep-sided fjords.
Later well stop by the docks to see what we
might take home from the fishing boats.
BUYER BEWARE Winters are stunning, partly because of storms famous for their fury. Anoraks
and whiskey are mandatory gear. (Confession:
we have a home in Oahu too). From mid-July
to mid-August the French tourist holiday
packs the island. Driving can be harrowing for
those weeks, and shopping wars seem to be
conducted in supermarket chariots. Its true,
some locals wont speak English and wont
let you speak French. Its best to cultivate a
personal translator for things that really matter negotiations, renovations, reservations.
Or marry one, like I did. Don Wallace
best islands to live on: islands.com/bitlo

DON WALLACE
AUTHOR

The French House

YEARS ON ISLAND

35

MY 3 CENTS
1. Belle Ile combines the seascapes
of my youth
(Laguna Beach)
with a tableau of
patchwork farms.
2. When we bought
our ruin, we were the
first not-rich Americans the villagers
had seen. The sacks
of sardines left on
our doorstep were
meant to test us.
3. Fish can be gifts
too. A friend once
pulled up to our
house and yelled.
When I came to the
door, a striped bass
came flying like
a newspaper and
smacked me on
the face.

TO BUY OR
TO TRY
YOU CAN GET
SOMETHING
FOR $360,000,
BUT IT MAY NOT
BE CHARMING
OR ON THE
WATER. RENTALS
GO FOR $350 TO
$1,250 A WEEK.

BEST ISLANDS FOR SIMPLE HARBOR LIFE: BEQUIA, CEDAR KEY (FLA.), BOCAS DEL TORO, NAUSHON (MASS.)

62 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

FROM LEFT: FRANCOIS ANCELLET/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY DON WALLACE

BEST FOR:

T H E 2015

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HOW TO

ICONIC DRINKS IN
IRONIC PLACES
Finding a mango in Nova
Scotia wouldnt be a huge
surprise unless you found
out it was grown there. Thats
the point with these drinks.
Not that they were on the local
menu, but that they wore local
labels. Karen Asp
LOCAL BREW

IN: TURKS AND CAICOS

FROM:: IRELAND
FAR FROM

ORGANIC COFFEE

IN: HANA, MAUI

FAR FROM: KONA, HAWAII

During a tasting at
Ono Organic Farms,
I sample soursop and
abiu, fruits I never
knew existed here.
Then comes a cup of
Kipahulu Estate Coffee. Abiu and Hanagrown coffee? They
belong together.
GREEN TEA

IN: VICTORIA ISLAND (B.C.)

FAR FROM: SRI LANKA

When visiting Silk Road

Tea in Victorias Chinatown, Im expecting a
carryout tea store, not
a total tea experience.
The place has a tea bar,
pairings of teas and
chocolates, and, in a
nod to its Northwest
roots, Sour Cherry Tea
groupies Im now
one of them.

A DISTANT MATCH
BY BRIANNA RANDALL
WHERE:

COOK ISLANDS
FAMILIAR SPORT

T H E D I S C OV E R Y :

The invitation comes from out of the

blue, before we even set our bare feet on

the dot of land alleged to be here among
the Cook Islands.
Do you play volley? our host,
Simon, asks as we pile into his aluminum
dinghy. Volley? Could he possibly mean
volleyball? Out here on a little atoll?
Were 560 miles from the nearest U.S.
homeland (American Samoa) and, to
the east, 750 miles from Bora Bora. And
that mileage doesnt begin to explain
how remote Palmerston Atoll is, even to
world sailors like us.
My husband, Rob, is a lifelong volleyball player. He lights up when Simon
confirms our suspicion.
We play every day at 4 oclock.
Every day? Rob asks.
Simon looks at the water and nods.
The Palmerston were about to step
on is not only distant. Even among the
dreamy Cooks it stands out as beautiful
and bizarre. Only 62 people live here.

There are no roads. No stores. No banks.

You can walk the islands perimeter in
under 20 minutes. The only access is by
boat, and even thats sketchy we had to
drop anchor on a steep coral shelf poor
holding for our sailboat and call for a
ride the rest of the way with Simon.
As we approach the isle, the place is
postcard perfect, with blinding beaches,
a turquoise lagoon and humpback
whales spouting offshore. And, apparently, a volleyball court. Rob starts
peppering Simon with questions. Does
everyone play volleyball?
Not everyone, Simon says, his
speech slow and concise. But it is our
favorite sport. Good exercise.
The residents form an incomprehensible array of nephews, aunts, brothers
and cousins. Theyre so tight-knit that
the details of how theyre related through
a common forefather, William Marsters,
is never discussed. I do find two people
who are not family. One is the nurse who
is on a one-year rotation from Fiji. The
other is the British schoolteacher (yes,
Every afternoon is like a family reunion on
Palmerstons only court (above).

THE CAYMAN ISLANDS HAD A TEAM COMPETE IN THE WORLD POND HOCKEY CHAMPIONSHIPS IN 2005 (YES, ICE HOCKEY).

64 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER

BRIANNA RANDALL; SIDEBAR (FROM TOP): ZACH STOVALL; ISTOCK; COURTESY SILK ROAD TEA

I arrive for a late lunch

at Regent Palms
Plunge poolside
restaurant. As a beer
lover, Im intrigued by
this, what is it, Turks
Head Amber? Im told
it and its stout sibling
are from a brewery on
Providenciales. Cant
say its Guinness-good,
but it was probably
brewed yesterday.

theres a school, called Lucky School

because of all the supplies visitors have
donated to it). The teacher came to learn
about the place where her own father
shipwrecked in the 1950s.
A supply ship stops in Palmerston
three to four times each year. Other than
hitching a ride on a passing sailboat, this
vessel is the only means the locals have
of 1) leaving or returning to the island,
2) receiving supplies of any sort, and 3)
making money with exports (the No. 1
export being refrigerators full of Palmerstons delicious parrotfish).
Perhaps because visitors are so rare,
the Palmerston residents dont allow
anyone ashore without a host. Hence, our
shuttle to shore from Simon. All visitors
are adopted while theyre here the
first person to contact a visitor gets to
adopt him or her. And, boy, do the locals
race each other for first contact. Partly
this is due to boredom. Its also because
visitors usually give gifts.
Case in point: The volleyball were
about to play with was a gift from a passing sailboat a while back. The ball is in decent shape, but the net sags in a few spots,

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giving it the appearance of an

than most of the powerful
WHY THE
EKG readout. Simon wasnt
thighs on the palm-shaded
ESCORT
lying: Locals begin trickling
court. After I struggle
A keeled-over
toward the court at 4:15 p.m.
through a half-dozen
sailboat from
We walk onto the sand
points, a swarm of kids
Philadelphia is
with no idea what to expect.
scoops me up, co-opting
the first thing
A real game with actual
me into their game of hit,
you see when
scorekeeping? Or a free-forbat, run. Most of them are
landing on the
all with makeshift rules?
more interested in touching
white shore. It
Its a real game, all right.
my pale hair and skin than
warns visitors
There are taunts and grunts.
continuing their version of
that the sea,
The scorekeeper keeps a
baseball. By the time they
though gorstone face. Players dive in
lose interest in the novelty
geous, is fickle.
the sand and set up plays.
that is me, the volleyball
Where did you all learn
game has also ended. Sweaty
to play? I ask my teambodies shuffle off the court,
mate, a 300-pound Polynesian wearing
families wander home, and the net
bright board shorts.
seems to sag a little lower.
A coach came up from Rangiroa a few
Simons niece, a strong volleyball
years back, he says. Were fast learners. player in her 20s who seems to be the
Turns out that Palmerston representislands captain, tucks the ball under her
ed the Cook Islands in last years South
arm and strolls with us back to the dinghy
Pacific Games. This from a stock of 62
that will take us to our moored sailboat.
people, including women and children.
Will you come play again tomorAcross the net from me, Rob adjusts
row? she asks.
his red jersey after a particularly athMake sure Simon picks us up at 3,
letic block. Hes 6-foot-3 and weighs 165
Rob says. We dont want to be late.
win trips islands.com/newsletter
pounds soaking wet. His waist is smaller

Free Travel
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Cayman Islands

Westin
Grand Cayman
Seven Mile Beach
Resort & Spa
Located on the widest stretch of Grand
Caymans famous Seven Mile Beach, the
newly-reimagined Westin Grand Cayman
encourages guests to relax and unwind. An
oversized, palm-shaded pool with swim up
bar, private cabanas dotting the white sand
beach, a world-class spa and easy access to
Grand Caymans best attractions provide an
energizing experience for all your senses.
p: 800-937-8461
w: westingrandcayman.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Saint Lucia

The BodyHoliday
The BodyHoliday goes beyond the
boundaries of an all-inclusive beach
getaway; its designed to be the most
relaxing and rejuvenating vacation in
the world. With its range of treatments,
therapies and activities, the 155-room
resort offers everything from archery
and scuba diving to Pilates and
Ayurvedic treatments.
p: 800-544-2883
w: thebodyholiday.com
e: usreservations@thebodyholiday.com

Belize

Turks & Caicos

SunBreeze Hotel

Ports of Call

A quick stroll from San Pedro Town, SunBreeze is the perfect

resort for discovering the wonders of Belize. Dive Belize famous
reefs, explore the Mayan Cities or zipline the rainforest canopy.

With employees who treat guests like family, renovated rooms, a

staffed beach 300 yards away and adjacent shops, its no surprise
guests return to this intimate boutique resort time and time again.

p: 501-226-2191 w: sunbreeze.net

p: 888-678-3483 w: portsofcallresort.com

Tobago

The Magdalena
Grand Beach &
Golf Resort
Nestled among Tobago Plantations Estate
18-hole PGA designed course, The
Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort
boasts canopy walks through a virgin mangrove forest. Located on miles of pristine
beaches, rejuvenate your mind, body and
spirit with a rich resort experience.
p: 866-353-6222
w: magdalenagrand.com
e: info@MagdalenaGrand.com

Turks & Caicos

Royal
West Indies
Located in the heart of Provo, this
luxury beachfront resort is nestled on the
crisp white sands of Grace Bay. Relax in
the mesmerizing waters of Grace Bay
beach, enjoy aquatic activities or visit the
many shops and restaurants within easy
walking distance of the resort.
p: 800-332-4203
w: royalwestindies.com
e: royalwestindies@travelmarketing.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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you can access all the latest issues and subscribe to Islands.
Search Islands Magazine in the App Store.

LuxuryVILLAS

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BELIZE

on the iPad

CAYO ESPANTO A PRIVATE ISLAND

Our ve-star, world-class Belize resort is for the discriminating

few who demand the best life has to offer. 888-666-4282 aprivateisland.com

ST. JOHN, USVI

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CATERED TO VACATION HOMES
Our private homes are beautifully furnished and
landscaped, all with spectacular deck views and
most with pools or spas. cateredto.com

ANTIGUA VILLAGE Personally styled, luxury

beachfront villas and condos set in lush tropical
gardens on one of the most beautiful and famous
beaches on Antigua. antiguavillage.net

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IslandsCLASSIFIEDS
JEWELRY

ISLAND ACCOMMODATIONS

Turks & Caicos

Bahamas

Island Based Central Reservations - for 50 hotels/

resorts and 100 villas throughout the destination!

KOKOMO

www.turksandcaicosreservations.com - call islands toll

ELEUTHERA
BAHAMAS

3 bedroom air-conditioned home on a

secluded pink sand beach. Great snorkeling,
4 kayaks, pool table, huge decks,
hammocks $1,795-$2,395/Wk.

free 1-877-774-5486
St. Croix
ST. CROIX, SHOYS BEACH - Lovely 3 bedroom
villa. Large pool and deck. Gorgeous view. Steps from
Swimming, Snorkeling, and Golf. From $1,600/week.
508-785-9895 http://www.shoysparadisefound.com
HAWAII ACCOMMODATIONS
Maui

800.454.2299 or 239.732.5112
www.kokomo1.com
TRAVEL GUIDE
CASTAWAYS TRAVEL If youre considering clothing
optional resorts, a nude cruise, or just want to getaway

Cayman Islands

as a couple then youre in the right place. Castaway-

breathtaking

Maui Beachfront Condominium...

Watch the humpback whales

from your private lanai.
:SLLW[V[OLZV\UKZVM[OLZ\YMM[LLUZ[LWZH^H`
Come Listen! $129 per night.
Owners: 1-800-742-7955 www.mauikondo.com

stravel.com Email: info@castawaystravel .com Phone:

(281) 362-8785

CLOTHING
888.756.7400 | www.theclubatlittlecayman.com

Hand
Crafted
in USA

PA R A D I S E V I L L A S , L I T T L E C AY M A N Only 100% oceanfront Resort on Little Cayman.

12 oceanfront villas, dive operation, seaside
dining at the Hungry Iguana. 1-877-3CAYMAN,
www.paradisevillas.com

TRAVEL SUPPLIES
Grenada & Carriacou
CARRIACOU - SIMPLEST OF THE GRENADINES.
Peaceful vacation villas. Down Island Ltd.
www.islandvillas.com E-mail: islander@islandvillas.com
Phone: (473) 443-8182
Puerto Rico

Artwork: www.carolynsteele.com

For more information on

www.coralations.org

contact Jacki Kendall

jacki.kendall@bonniercorp.com

Islands
.com

W H AT N O B O D Y T E L L S Y O U A B O U T ...
Rosewood Little Di x Bay, BVI

AN EVEN BETTER VIEW

SHORE THING

THE OOPS MOMENT

The jaw starts sagging

during the Cape Air flight
from San Juan to Virgin
Gorda. The Cessna flies
low along Puerto Ricos
sand-swept northern
coast. For an hour, the
views only get better over
Culebra, St. Thomas, St.
John and Tortola.

SEVEN BEACHES
ARE REACHED
ONLY BY THE
RESORTS BOAT.
BET TER READ
HOW TO OPEN A
COCONUT 3.

No room has a key. Thats

how Laurance Rockefeller
wanted it 50 years ago
when he opened the
doors (presumably with no
keys). Its only a problem
if I enter the wrong room
at night. And then its
really more of a problem
for someone else.

STORY AND PHOTO BY ZACH STOVALL

ISLANDS, VOL. 34, NO. 7, NOVEMBER 2014 (ISSN 0745-7847), is published 8 times a year (Jan./Feb., March, April/May, June, July/Aug., Sept./Oct., Nov., Dec.) by Bonnier Corporation, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, FL 32790; 407-628-4802. One year (8 issues) $24
in the U.S. For Canada, add $9 for postage per year. All other countries add $18. Copyright 2014 by Bonnier Corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the written consent of Bonnier Corporation. Periodicals postage paid at Winter Park, FL, and at additional offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ISLANDS, P.O. Box 6364, Harlan, IA 51593. Printed in USA. PUBLICATION MAIL AGREEMENT NUMBER 40612608 CANADA RETURN MAIL: IMEX, P.O. Box 25542, London, Ontario N6C 6B2

74 ISLANDS

NOVEMBER