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GMC Sierra 3500HD

GMC Sierra 3500HD

ESSENTIAL NOTES BEFORE PROCEEDING

Safety Notice

Proper service and repair procedures are vital to the safe, reliable operation of all motor vehicles, as well as the personal safety of those performing repairs. This information outlines procedures for servicing and repairing vehicles using, safe, effective methods. The procedures contain many NOTES, CAUTIONS and WARNINGS which should be followed, along with standard procedures, to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.

It is important to note that repair procedures and techniques, tools and parts for servicing motor vehicles, as well as the skill and experience of the individual performing the work, vary widely. It is not possible to anticipate all of the conceivable ways or conditions under which vehicles may be serviced, or to provide cautions as to all possible hazards that may result. Standard and accepted safety precautions and equipment should be used during cutting, grinding, chiseling, prying, or any other process that can cause material removal or projectiles.

Some procedures require the use of tools specially designed for a specific purpose. Before substituting another tool or procedure, you must be completely satisfied that neither your personal safety, nor the performance of the vehicle, will be endangered.

Although information in the data is based on industry sources and is complete as possible at the time of publication, the possibility exists that some vehicle manufacturers made later changes which could not be included here. While striving for total accuracy, the Publisher cannot assume responsibility for any errors, changes or omissions that may occur in the compilation of this data.

Part Numbers

Part numbers listed in this reference are not recommendations by the Publisher for any product brand name. They are references that can be used with interchange manuals and aftermarket supplier catalogs to locate each brand supplier's discrete part number.

Special Tools

Special tools are recommended by the vehicle manufacturer to perform their specific job. Use has been kept to a minimum, but, where absolutely necessary, they are referred to in the text by the part number of the tool manufacturer. These tools can be purchased, under the appropriate part number, from your local dealer or regional distributor, or an equivalent tool can be purchased locally from a tool supplier or parts outlet. Before substituting any tool for the one recommended, read the SAFETY NOTICE at the top of this page.

PRECAUTIONS

Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read all of the following precautions, which deal with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle:

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.

Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well-ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark, open flame, or excessive heat (a hot drop light, for example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. Refer to the additional fuel system precautions later in this section.

Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

Brake fluid often contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.

The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer. You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

All new vehicles are now equipped with an air bag system, often referred to as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. The system must be disabled before performing service on or around system components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and unnecessary system repairs.

Always wear safety goggles when working with, or around, the air bag system. When carrying a non-deployed air bag, be sure the bag and trim cover are pointed away from your body. When placing a non-deployed air bag on a work surface, always face the bag and trim cover upward, away from the surface. This will reduce the motion of the module if it is accidentally deployed. Refer to the additional air bag system precautions later in this section.

Clean, high quality brake fluid from a sealed container is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the correct type of brake fluid for your vehicle. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, completely flush the system with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will damage the paint.

Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil; doing so WILL result in severe engine damage.

Servicing Your Vehicle Safely

It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with automotive maintenance and service, but care and common sense will prevent most accidents.

The rules of safety for mechanics range from "don't smoke around gasoline," to "use the proper tool for the job." The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop safe work habits and take every possible precaution.

DO'S

Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy.

Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if

you have 20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.

Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric

acid. In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical attention.

Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising

vehicles; jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the ground

and set the parking brake.

Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or hazardous materials.

Like carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from some brake lining wear can be hazardous in sufficient quantities.

Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical system. The secondary ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.

Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially hazardous materials. Most chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken internally.

Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed punches and

chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight sockets can cause accidents.

Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and often harming your knuckles in the process.

Do use the proper size and type of tool for the job at hand. Do select a wrench or

socket that fits the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight, not cocked.

DON'TS

Don't run the engine in a garage or anywhere else without proper ventilation--EVER!

Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave the human body and you can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a little every day. You may not realize you are slowly poisoning yourself. Always use power vents, windows, fans and/or open the garage door.

Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short sleeves are much

safer than long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be tied back under a hat or cap.

Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around a spinning shaft or fan.

Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other flammable material.

Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being charged, it gives off explosive hydrogen gas.

Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline

contains dangerous additives which can enter the body through a cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands will suck up oil and grease.

Don't service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary

tools and training. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze anything it touches. Although refrigerant is normally non-toxic, R-12 becomes a deadly poisonous gas in the presence of an open flame. One good whiff of the vapors from burning refrigerant can be fatal.

Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screwdriver used as

an prying tool can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries. At the very least, you'll ruin a good screwdriver.

Don't use a bumper or emergency jack (that little ratchet, scissors, or pantograph jack

supplied with the vehicle) for anything other than changing a flat! These jacks are only intended for emergency use out on the road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance

tool. If you are serious about maintaining your vehicle yourself, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1 1 2 ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.

Fig. 1: Always support your vehicle on jackstand while working underneath Fig. 2: If you're
Fig. 1: Always support your vehicle on jackstand while
working underneath
Fig. 2: If you're using portable electric tools, make sure
they're grounded, preferably at the plug by a three wire
connector

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

Service Precautions

Before servicing any vehicle read all of the following precautions that deal with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle:

If the battery is removed for any reason, ensure that it is reconnected with the correct polarity. Reversing the battery’s polarity may result in damage to the one- way rectifiers.

Never operate the generator with the main circuit broken. Ensure that the battery, generator, and regulator leads are not disconnected while the engine is running.

Never attempt to polarize a generator.

When charging a battery that is installed in the vehicle, disconnect the negative battery cable.

When utilizing a booster battery as a starting aid always connect it in parallel; negative to negative and positive to positive.

When arc (electric) welding is to be performed on any part of the vehicle disconnect the negative battery cable and generator leads.

Never unplug the PCM while the engine is running or with the ignition in the ON position. Severe and expensive damage may result.

Never attempt to charge or connect jumper cables to a frozen battery. The battery may explode. Bring the battery indoors where it can thaw before charging the battery.

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is hot; serious burns and blindness can occur from the steam and hot coolant.

Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with sparks, open flame, or excessive heat (a hot drop light, for example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; and always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. Refer to the additional fuel system precautions later in this section.

Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders including cancer. You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after

exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil. Doing so will result in severe engine damage.

Timing belt maintenance is extremely important. Many models utilize an interference-type, non-freewheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the pistons causing potentially serious (also time- consuming and expensive) engine damage. Refer to the maintenance interval charts in the front of this manual for the recommended replacement interval for the timing belt, and to the timing belt section for belt replacement and inspection.

All new vehicles are now equipped with an air bag system. The system must be disabled before performing service on or around system components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and unnecessary system repairs.

Always wear safety goggles when working with, or around, the air bag system. When carrying a non-deployed air bag, be sure the bag and trim cover are pointed away from your body. When placing a non-deployed air bag on a work surface, always face the bag and trim cover upward, away from the surface. This will reduce the motion of the module if it is accidentally deployed. Refer to the additional air bag system precautions later in this section.

Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the functions of the on-board computer system(s) and may require the computer to undergo a relearning process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.

Batteries contain corrosive acid. Batteries supply current high enough to cause burns. Batteries produce explosive gases. When working on batteries always wear eye protection. Never allow battery acid to contact the skin or eyes. Do not allow sparks or flames near the battery.

NOTE: Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the functions of the on board computer system. The computer may undergo a relearning process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.

Distributorless Ignition System

General Information

Distributorless ignition systems (EI) are used on many current engines. This system uses the waste spark method for distributing secondary voltage. In a waste spark system, an individual coil is used to fire one pair of engine cylinders simultaneously. These cylinders are known as companions, since each of their pistons is at TDC at the same time. On a typical V6 engine for example, cylinder 1 is at TDC compression while cylinder 4 is at TDC exhaust. This is also true of cylinders 2 and 5 as well as cylinder 3 and 6.

The cylinder on the compression stroke is known as the event cylinder, while the cylinder on the exhaust stroke is called the waste cylinder. Since secondary resistance is very low in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke, little voltage is required to fire the plug. For this reason, the majority of available voltage is consumed by the cylinder on the compression stroke.

One spark plug is attached to each end of the secondary coil winding via the spark plug wires. This series circuit arrangement causes one of the plugs to fire in a forward direction (center electrode to outer electrode), and the other spark plug to fire in a reverse direction (outer electrode to center electrode). The firing voltage requirements on the waste spark ignition are significantly greater than a traditional ignition system primarily because it takes 30% more energy to fire a plug reverse polarity. When a spark plug is fired backwards, it fires from the outer electrode to the center electrode. This is a high resistance path since the electrons do not flow as easily from a cold, dull surface such as the outer electrode to a hot, sharp surface like the center electrode.

Since the coil and plugs are arranged in a series circuit, a typical plug gap of .050" results in a total gap of .100" for the whole circuit that includes two spark plugs for the companion cylinders. The waste spark can overcome this added resistance by producing high secondary output voltages due to low resistance in the primary winding. Another reason higher secondary ignition voltage is required is cylinder pressure; specifically, the lack of it. Generally, event cylinders require 10 to 12-kV to initiate current flow across the spark plug gap, while only 2 - 3-kV is needed to fire the waste cylinder. Therefore, the air gap in the waste cylinder creates no more resistance than the rotor gap does in a conventional ignition system.

There are two different methods used for coil trigger. One method sends the crankshaft sensor signal directly to the ignition module to activate the coils, while the other sends

the crankshaft sensor signal to the PCM and the PCM controls ignition operation either directly or through a separate ignition module.

Waste spark ignition advantages

It has fewer components than conventional distributor-type ignition systems.

No mechanical adjustments to set ignition timing.

No mechanical load (turning the distributor shaft).

No unwanted timing variations caused by gear lash or other worn distributor components.

Another advantage of waste spark is longer coil life. To illustrate this point, consider a six-cylinder engine with conventional ignition. At 3000 RPM, the coil must fire 9000 times per minute. This is calculated by dividing the engine speed by 2, since the cam turns at half crank speed, and then multiplying the distributor RPM by the total number of engine cylinders.

In contrast, the coils on a six-cylinder engine with waste spark only work a third as hard. This is because there’s a coil for every two cylinders and each coil fires every crankshaft revolution. This means that at 3000 RPM, the coils only fire 3000 times per minute. This allows each coil to operate with less dwell (time that the coil is energized), resulting in less heat buildup and longer life.

Coil Over Plug System

The coil over plug system was developed so that spark and spark timing could be better controlled on an individual cylinder basis. Each cylinder has an ignition coil mounted directly above the spark plug on the cylinder head cover. A short suppresser/connector replaces the spark plug wire and links the coil to the plug. There are different methods used for primary triggering. Some manufacturers use a combination coil/module, which means each coil has its own control circuit that is activated by the PCM. Others use remote mounted modules to trigger the coils.

Each individual coil is allowed to saturate while all other cylinders fire. For a V-8 engine, this allows a period of seven firing events for coil saturation, compared to three events for the same V-8 engine with a waste spark system. The coil over plug system also benefits from a minimum amount of energy lost, due to the resistance of spark plug wires.

Coil Near Plug System

The coil near plug system also features multiple ignition coils. An ignition coil/module is mounted in proximity of each cylinder. There is a short length of spark plug wire between the coil and the spark plug.

Each ignition coil/module has its own control circuit and is activated sequentially by the PCM. All timing decisions are made by the PCM. This includes both ignition timing and duration of the spark.

Camshaft Sensor

Many waste spark and coil over plug systems require a cylinder identification signal so that the ignition coils can fire in the proper order during start up. If the computer does not receive a cam sensor signal, some engines may not start. Some may take a few attempts while the ignition module or PCM guesses at coil sequencing. The PCM will attempt to synchronize and look for an increase in the mass airflow sensor (MAF) signal. An increase in the MAF signal will indicate that the engine has started. If the PCM does not detect an increase in the MAF signal, a re-sync will occur to the opposite cam position. If the engine fails to start on the first attempt, try turning the key off and then try again. If the engine starts normally on a subsequent attempt, look for a problem in the camshaft sensor circuit. Some systems use the camshaft sensor only for control of sequential fuel injection.

Related Symptoms

Faulty or fouled spark plugs along with a faulty ignition control system due to loose connections, bad grounds, high resistance in the circuit, or opens in the circuit can cause the following symptoms:

No start condition

Stalling after cold start

Stalling after hot start

Surging off idle

Extended crank time when engine is cold

Unstable idle

Running rough during off idle acceleration

Bucking

Hesitation

Stumble

Chuggle

Diesels or runs on

High idle

Poor fuel economy

Spark knock

Stalling on acceleration

Secondary Spark Test

This spark tester looks just like a spark plug. Attach the clip to ground and
This spark tester looks just like a spark plug. Attach the clip
to ground and crank the engine to check for spark.
This spark tester has an adjustable air-gap for measuring
spark strength and testing different voltage ignition systems.
Attach the clip to ground then crank the engine to check for spark. This spark
Attach the clip to ground then crank the engine to check for
spark.
This spark tester is the easiest to use. Just place it on a
plug wire and the spark voltage is detected; the bulb on the
top will flash with each pulse.
NOTE: The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available

NOTE: The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available:

The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse.

The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for the engine.

The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump.

NOTE: The last two types of testers allow the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity of the spark. Orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong.

1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.

2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine or frame.

3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.

4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.

5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform a diagnostic test of the ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedures.

Firing Orders

NOTE: To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.

If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed and installed improperly and then rewired. The new wiring arrangement would maintain the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the engine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all wires

before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes of the current plug wire locations and orientation of the distributor cap.

4.3L Engine

1-6-5-4-3-2

4.8L, 5.3L & 6.6L Engine

1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3

Ignition Coil

Removal & Installation

4.8L, 5.3L & 6.6L Engines

To Remove:

Typical Ignition Coil Mounting

1. Remove or disconnect the following  Spark plug wires at the ignition coils 

1. Remove or disconnect the following

Spark plug wires at the ignition coils

Ignition coil harness electrical connector

Ignition coil bolts

Ignition coil

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

The ignition coil

CAUTION

The ignition coil bolts have self-tapping threads, care must be taken, NOT to strip the threads when installing.

Ignition coil bolts.

A. Tighten the bolts to 106 lb in (12 Nm).

Ignition coil harness electrical connector.

Spark plug wires at the ignition coils.

Charging System

General Information

The automobile charging system provides electrical power for operation of the vehicle's ignition and starting systems as well as all electrical accessories. The battery serves as an electrical surge, or storage tank, storing (in chemical form) the energy originally produced by the engine driven alternator. The system also provides a means of

regulating alternator output to protect the battery from being overcharged, and to avoid excessive voltage to the accessories.

The storage battery is a chemical device incorporating parallel lead plates in a tank containing a sulfuric acid/water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly dissimilar, and the chemical reaction of the two dissimilar plates produces electrical energy when the battery is connected to a load such as the starter motor. The chemical reaction is reversible, so that when the alternator is producing a voltage (electrical pressure) greater than that produced by the battery, electricity is forced into the battery, and the battery is returned to full charge.

The vehicle's alternator is driven by a belt, or belts from the engine’s crankshaft. In an alternator, the field rotates while all the current produced passes only through the stator winding. The brushes bear against continuous slip rings rather than a commutator. This causes the current produced to periodically reverse the direction of its flow creating alternating current (AC). Diodes (electrical one-way switches) block the flow of current from traveling in the wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together to permit the alternating flow of the stator to be converted to a pulsating, but unidirectional flow at the alternator output. The alternator's field is wired in series with the voltage regulator.

The voltage regulator consists of several circuits. Each circuit has a core, or magnetic coil of wire, which operates a switch. Each switch is connected to ground through one or more resistors. The coil of wire responds directly to system voltage. When the voltage reaches the required level, the magnetic field created by the winding of wire closes the switch and inserts a resistance into the alternator field circuit, thus reducing the output. The contacts of the switch cycle open and closed many times each second to precisely control voltage.

Alternator

Precautions

Several precautions must be observed when performing work on the alternator:

If the battery is removed for any reason, make sure that it is reconnected with the correct polarity. Reversing the battery's polarity may result in damage to the one- way rectifiers.

Never operate the alternator with the main circuit broken. Make sure that the battery, alternator, and regulator leads are not disconnected while the engine is running.

Never attempt to polarize an alternator.

When charging a battery that is installed in the vehicle, disconnect the negative battery cable.

When utilizing a booster battery as a starting aid, always connect it in parallel; negative to negative, and positive to positive.

When arc (electric) welding is to be performed on any part of the vehicle, disconnect the negative battery cable and alternator leads.

Never unplug the PCM while the engine is running or with the ignition in the ON position. Severe and expensive damage may result.

Testing

Open Circuit Voltage Test

2.

Use a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter) set to DC volts and probe across the battery terminals.

3. Measure the battery voltage.

4. Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.

No-Load Test

1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.

CAUTION

Place the transmission in P (Park), set the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement.

2. Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.).

NOTE: It is a good practice to turn off all electrical accessories prior to shutting off the engine.

3. Start the engine and increase engine speed to 1500 RPM.

4. Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 RPM.

Voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts (no more than 2.5 volts)

5. If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the charging system is not charging.

6. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.

NOTE: Under and overcharging is typically caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator). Note that the voltage regulator is internal to the alternator assembly in many vehicles. Replacement of these items will often repair the problem. However, faulty wiring and other problems can also cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

7. If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.

Load Test

1. With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams (or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).

2. Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 RPM.

3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery.

4. The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.

NOTE: Under and overcharging are typically caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator). The voltage regulator is internal to the alternator assembly in many vehicles. Faulty wiring and other problems can also cause the charging system to

malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

Removal & Installation

4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engine

To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Accessory drive belt

Engine sight shield, if necessary

Electrical connections from the generator

Mounting bolts

Generator

Alternator mounting-5.3L

Alternator mounting-5.3L

To Install:

1. Install the generator.

2. Install or connect the following:

Generator mounting bolts.

A. Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

Electrical connections to the generator.

A. Tighten the B+ nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

Engine sight shield, if removed

Accessory drive belt

3. Connect the negative battery cable.

Tighten to bolt to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).

6.6L Diesel Engine

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Accessory drive belt

Engine sight shield, if necessary

Electrical connections from the alternator

Mounting bolts

Alternator

Cable from the alternator as follows:

A. Slide the boot down, to reveal the terminal stud

B. Unfasten the cable nut from the stud, then remove the alternator cable

Alternator mounting

Alternator mounting

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Alternator

Alternator mounting bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Electrical connections to the alternator and tighten the B+ nut

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Engine sight shield, if removed

Accessory drive belt

Connect the negative battery cable and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)

8.1L Engine

To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Electrical connections from the generator

3. Remove the cable from the generator as follows:

Slide the boot down, to reveal the terminal stud.

Unfasten the cable nut from the stud, then remove the generator cable.

Accessory drive belt

Mounting bolts

Generator

Mounting bolts securing the generator to the brace and bracket

Generator

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Generator

Generator mounting bolts.

A. Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

Accessory drive belt

Connect the generator cable, secure with the nut and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Slide the boot back over the terminal stud.

Electrical connections to the generator

2. Connect the negative battery cable.

Battery

Removal & Installation

Left Battery

To Remove:

CAUTION

Make sure to connect the correct battery cable to the correct battery terminal. Reversing the battery's polarity may result in damage to electrical components.

1. Follow the precautions listed in the beginning of this section.

2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

3. Turn off all lighting and accessories.

4. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

5. Remove the fender to radiator support brace.

6. Disconnect the battery positive cable.

7. Remove the battery hold down clamp bolt and retainer.

8. Remove the battery insulator.

9. Remove the battery from the tray.

To Install:

1. Install the battery on the tray.

2. Install the battery insulator.

3. Install the battery hold down retainer and bolt.

Tighten to 80 in lb (9 Nm).

4. Connect the positive battery cable.

Tighten to 13 ft lb (17 Nm).

5. Install the fender to radiator support brace.

6. Connect the negative battery cable

Tighten to 13 ft lb (17 Nm).

Right Battery

To Remove:

CAUTION

Make sure to connect the correct battery cable to the correct battery terminal. Reversing the battery's polarity may result in damage to electrical components.

1. Follow the precautions listed in the beginning of this section.

2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

3. Turn off all lighting and accessories.

4. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

5. Disconnect the battery positive cable.

6. Remove the battery hold down clamp bolt and retainer.

7. Remove the battery insulator.

8. Remove the battery from the tray.

To Install:

1.

Install the battery on the tray.

2. Install the battery insulator.

3. Install the battery hold down retainer and bolt.

Tighten to 80 in lb (9 Nm).

4. Connect the positive battery cable.

Tighten to 13 ft lb (17 Nm).

5. Connect the negative battery cable

Tighten to 13 ft lb (17 Nm).

Starting System

General Information

The starting system includes the battery, starter motor and solenoid, ignition switch, circuit protection and wiring connecting all of the components. An inhibitor switch located in the Transmission Range (TR) sensor is included in the starting system to prevent the vehicle from being started unless the transmission is in PARK. A similar function is performed by the clutch switch in manual transmission vehicles.

When the ignition key is turned to the START position, current flows and energizes the starter's solenoid coil. The solenoid plunger and clutch shift lever are activated and the clutch pinion engages the ring gear on the flywheel. The switch contacts close, and the starter cranks the engine until the engine starts.

To prevent damage caused by excessive starter armature rotation when the engine starts, the starter incorporates an over-running clutch in the pinion gear. This disengages the starter motor from the engine when the engine begins to run on its own.

Starter

Testing

Starting System Voltage Drop Tests

NOTE: The battery must be in good condition and fully charged prior to performing this test.

There are three area of the starter motor circuits that voltage drop test can be performed on. These include:

The starter feed circuit

The starter ground circuit

The starter solenoid.

Starter Feed Circuit

1. Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.

2. Verify that the vehicle will not start.

3. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery.

4. Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the starter B+ terminal.

5. Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the voltmeter.

Ideally, there should be no more than 0.1 volt drop for each connection displayed on the voltmeter. No voltage should be consumed by the vehicle wiring

A. If the battery cable connects directly to the starter motor there should be no more than a 0.2 volt drop measured

B. If the vehicle uses a starter solenoid between the battery and the starter motor terminal there should be no more than 0.4 volt displayed on the voltmeter

Starter Ground Circuit

1. Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.

2. Verify that the vehicle will not start.

3. Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the case of the starter motor.

4. Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the negative terminal of the battery.

5. Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the voltmeter.

Ideally, there should be no more than 0.1 volt drop for each connection displayed on the voltmeter. No voltage should be consumed by the vehicle wiring

A. If the battery cable connects directly to the starter motor there should be no more than a 0.2 volt drop measured

Starter Solenoid

1. Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.

3.

Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the case starter B+ terminal.

4. Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the lug (the starter M terminal) that connects the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5. Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the voltmeter.

Ideally, there should be no more than 0.2 volt drop across the starter solenoid displayed on the voltmeter.

In general, there should be no more than a 1.0 volt drop throughout the entire starter motor feed and ground circuit. Any voltage drops measured in either the feed or ground circuits after connections have been cleaned will require replacement of the affected battery cable. Typically, any voltage drops measured in the solenoid are repaired by replacing the starter motor.

NOTE: Many automotive parts stores have starter bench testers available for use by customers. A starter bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your starter.

Removal & Installation

4.8L, 5.3L & 6.6L Engine

To Remove:

CAUTION

Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the bolt and reposition the engine oil dipstick tube.

3. Raise and support the vehicle.

4. Remove the protective shields as necessary.

5. Remove the starter to transmission close out cover bolt.

6. Disconnect the engine oil level sensor connection.

7. On 4WD vehicles, remove the front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut.

8. On 4WD vehicles, reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.

9. Remove the mounting bolts from the engine block. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission. Remove the starter transmission close out cover.

10. Disconnect the positive battery cable and wiring harness from the starter. Remove the starter from the vehicle.

Starter removal-5.3L

Starter removal-5.3L

To Install:

1. Install the starter.

2. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter.

Tighten the nut to 12 inch lbs. (16 Nm).

3. Install the starter transmission close out cover. Install the mounting bolts to the engine block.

Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

4. On 4WD vehicles, Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated Install the front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut.

Tighten the nut to 67 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).

5. Connect the engine oil level sensor connection.

6. Install the starter to transmission close out cover bolt.

7. Install the starter solenoid shield.

8. Install the protective shields as needed.

9. Remove the safety stands.

10. Lower the vehicle.

11. Install the engine oil dipstick tube.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

Tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).

8.1L Engine

To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. On 4WD vehicles, remove the front axle mounting bracket nuts. Do not remove the bolt.

4. On 4WD vehicles, reposition the front axle mounting bracket bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing.

5. Remove the starter mounting bolts.

6. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.

7. Remove the wiring from the starter.

8. If necessary, remove the starter heat shield bolts, nut, and shield.

To Install:

1. If necessary, install the starter heat shield, nut and bolts.

2. Connect the wiring to the starter.

3. Install the starter on the engine.

Tighten the bolts to 37 lb ft (50 Nm).

4. On 4WD vehicles, position the front axle mounting bracket bolt until the bolt is fully seated.

5. On 4WD vehicles, install the front axle mounting bracket nuts.

Tighten the nuts to 70 lb ft (95 Nm).

6. Lower the vehicle.

ENGINE & ENGINE REPAIR

Precautions

Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read all of the following precautions, which deal with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle:

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.

Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well-ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark, open flame, or excessive heat (a hot drop light, for example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. Refer to the additional fuel system precautions later in this section.

Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

Brake fluid often contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.

The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

All new vehicles are now equipped with an air bag system, often referred to as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. The system must be disabled before performing service on or around system components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and unnecessary system repairs.

Always wear safety goggles when working with, or around, the air bag system. When carrying a non-deployed air bag, be sure the bag and trim cover are pointed away from your body. When placing a non-deployed air bag on a work surface, always face the bag and trim cover upward, away from the surface. This will reduce the motion of the module if it is accidentally deployed. Refer to the additional air bag system precautions later in this section.

Clean, high quality brake fluid from a sealed container is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the correct type of brake fluid for your vehicle. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, completely flush the system with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that

is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will damage the paint.

Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil; doing so WILL result in severe engine damage.

Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! Many models utilize an interference-type, non-freewheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time- consuming and expensive) engine damage. Refer to the maintenance interval charts in the front of this manual for the recommended replacement interval for the timing belt, and to the timing belt section for belt replacement and inspection.

Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the functions of the on-board computer system(s) and may require the computer to undergo a relearning process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.

When servicing drum brakes, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the remaining side intact for reference.

Only an MVAC-trained, EPA-certified automotive technician should service the air conditioning system or its components.

Engine

General Information

In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system'' or "remove the radiator.'' In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this manual.

It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.

Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:

If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.

Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.

Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.

Before unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.

If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.

When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. If your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, it is recommended that your lifting apparatus be attached to them.

Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.

After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an approved engine stand or workbench.

When the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using the procedures outlined in this manual.

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

NOTE: In order to remove the engine, the vehicle must be raised and the front tires removed. You will have to safely support the vehicle by its frame for tire removal.

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system.

4. Drain the engine oil.

Place hood to service position

Place hood to service position

5. Raise the hood to the servicing position and move the hood hinge bolt to hold the hood in the servicing position.

6. Disconnect the battery cables.

7. Remove the upper intake manifold sight shield as follows:

Remove the retaining bolt in the front of the shield

Lift up on the front of the shield, then left the shield off the rear bracket

8. Remove or disconnect the following:

NOTE: After you remove the duct, cover the turbocharger openings and ducts with tape to prevent foreign objects from entering.

Air cleaner outlet duct from the air cleaner and turbocharger

Mass Air Flow (MAF) switch connector

A/C pressure cycling switch connector

Surge tank switch

Engine wire harness clip from the accumulator

Engine wire harness clips from the wheelhouse inner panel and engine bracket

Air cleaner assembly and bracket

Surge tank

9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

10. Remove or disconnect the following:

Front tires and wheels

Both front fender wheelhouse inner panels

11. Lower the vehicle.

12. Remove or disconnect the following:

Charged air cooler pipes and hoses from the engine and charged air cooler

Radiator inlet hose form the radiator and engine

Upper and lower fan shrouds

Radiator outlet hose from the radiator

Outlet heater hose from the outlet radiator hose

Hose clips from the frame

Radiator outlet hose from the engine

Bolt securing the outlet heater hose pipe to the alternator mounting bracket

Nut securing the outlet heater hose pipe to the fuel filter mounting bracket

Secure the heater hose aside

Upper radiator support

Radiator (See: Radiator)

Charged air cooler

A/C condenser

Alternator harness connector

A/C refrigerant switch connector

Dual alternator harness connector, if equipped

A/C compressor clutch connector

Harness clip from the A/C compressor bracket

Battery cable from the alternator and auxiliary alternator, if equipped

Battery cable harness clips from the bracket

Bolt securing the battery cable junction block from the power steering pump

Move and secure the battery cables aside

Both fuel injection control module harness connectors, by flipping the latch up

Engine wire harness from the retainer

Fuel lines at the engine

Remove the nut and the fuel line bracket from the upper valve rocker arm cover stud

Fuel lines aside

Power supply cable from the glow plug relay

Drive belt

Suction hose from the accumulator

NOTE: You can leave the compressor end on the compressor.

A/C compressor bolts, then move the compressor, with the hoses attached, to the right side of the engine compartment

Wiring harness to the left side of the engine and tie aside

Bolts holding the power steering pump front bracket to the pump and A/C compressor mounting bracket

A/C compressor and power steering pump bracket. Once the battery cables are removed from the engine, the power steering pump can be removed further out of the way

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) oil separator from the bracket

Bolts securing the PCV separator bracket and fuel bleed valve

Right idler pulley (ribbed)

Alternator mounting bracket and secure aside

NOTE: You do not have to remove the alternator or the belt tensioner.

Inlet heater hose from the heater core inlet, using Quick Connect- Disconnect tool No. J 43181 or other suitable equivalent tool

Bolt and ground wires from the rear of the left cylinder head

13. Raise the vehicle.

14. Remove or disconnect the following:

Oil pan skid plate

Engine protection shield, if equipped

Bolt for the negative battery cable and engine wiring harness ground wire from the left side of the engine

Bolts holding the battery cable channel retainer to the lower crankcase

Engine coolant heater cord

Starter (See: Starter)

Nut securing the battery cable bracket to the right side of the lower crankcase

Bolt holding the auxiliary negative battery cable and the engine wiring harness ground wires to the right side of the engine

Position the battery cables aside

Exhaust pipe-to-exhaust outlet clamp

Lower oil pan, if 4WD (See: Lower Oil Pan)

15. If equipped with an automatic transmission, matchmark the installed position of the flywheel and torque converter.

Torque converter bolts through the starter opening

Transmission oil line clip nut if equipped with A/T

Nuts securing the transmission fluid fill tube bracket, if equipped with A/T

Transmission-to-engine stud and bolts. Note the location of the studs and any brackets attached to the studs

Lower the vehicle to work through the wheel opening

Engine mount-to-frame bracket bolts

16. Lower the vehicle.

17. Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting device to the rear of the left cylinder head with a suitable bolt.

NOTE: Install a suitable lifting device. The engine will have to be angled to remove it. Use a load positioning sling to help in angling the engine.

19. Raise the vehicle off the engine mounts.

20. Remove the left and right engine mount frame brackets.

21. Remove the engine assembly from the vehicle.

22. Secure the engine on an engine stand by removing the following components:

Flywheel/flexplate

Rear main seal

Exhaust outlet

Oil pan

Flywheel housing

To Install:

1. Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting device to the rear of the left cylinder head with a suitable bolt.

Install the engine lifting bracket to the rear of the left cylinder head

Install the engine lifting bracket to the rear of the left cylinder head

2.

Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting device to the front of the right cylinder head with a suitable bolt.

NOTE: Install a suitable lifting device. The engine will have to be angled to install it. Use a load positioning sling to help in angling the engine.

3. Install or connect the following:

Engine in the vehicle

2 transmission-to-engine bolts, loosely

Left and right side engine mount frame brackets and tighten the bracket bolts

A. Torque to: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)

Engine mount-to-frame bracket bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 50 ft. lbs. (65 Nm)

4. Remove the engine lifting bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting device from the cylinder heads.

5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

6. Install or connect the following:

Transmission-to-engine bolts/studs and tighten the bolts/studs

A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) }

Transmission-to-engine mounting-6.6L engine with A/

 Torque converter bolts, if equipped with an A/T and tighten the bolts A. Torque

Torque converter bolts, if equipped with an A/T and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)

Nuts retaining the transmission fluid fill tube bracket if equipped with an automatic transmission and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)

Lower oil pan if 4WD

Nut retaining the transmission oil cooler line clip if equipped with an automatic transmission and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Exhaust pipe to the exhaust outlet

Exhaust manifold pipe to the exhaust outlet clamp and tighten the clamp

A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

7. Lower the vehicle to work through the front fender wheelhouse openings.

8. Install or connect the following:

Bolt retaining the battery negative cable and the engine wiring harness ground wire to the left side of the engine and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: (34 Nm)

Bolts holding the battery cable channel retainer to the lower crankcase and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 106 inch lbs (12 Nm)

Bolts holding the auxiliary battery negative cable and the engine wiring harness ground wires to the right side of the engine and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

Nut holding the battery cable bracket to the right side of the lower

crankcase and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Starter (See: Starter)

Cord for the engine coolant heater

Engine oil pan skid plate and tighten the oil pan skid plate bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Engine shield and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

9. Lower the vehicle.

10. Install or connect the following:

Bolt and the ground wires at the rear of the left cylinder head and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

Alternator mounting bracket and bolts and tighten the bolts

Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Right idler pulley and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm)

PCV oil separator bracket and the fuel bleed with the nuts to the alternator mounting bracket and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

PCV oil separator on the bracket

Nylon strap for the PCV oil separator

Air conditioning compressor and the power steering pump mounting bracket

11. Position the engine wiring harness on the engine.

12. Position the A/C compressor.

13. Install or connect the following:

A/C compressor mounting bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

A/C suction hose to the accumulator

Drive belt

Power supply cable and nut to the glow plug relay and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm)

Fuel hoses at the engine

Nut and the fuel hose bracket to the valve rocker arm cover stud and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

Fuel injection control module harness connectors

Engine wire harness in the retainer

Cable junction block and bolt to the power steering pump and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Battery cable to the auxiliary generator if equipped

Battery cable to the alternator and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Battery cable harness clip to the bracket

The following electrical connectors:

A. Generator harness connector

B. A/C refrigerant switch

C. Dual generator harness connector, if equipped

D. A/C compressor clutch

E. Install the harness clip to the A/C compressor bracket

Upper radiator support

A/C condenser

Charged air cooler

Radiator (See: Radiator)

Outlet radiator hose to the radiator and tighten the hose clamp

Hose clips to the frame

Outlet radiator hose to the engine and tighten the hose clamp

Lower fan shroud

Upper fan shroud

Inlet heater hose to the heater core inlet by firmly pushing the quick connector onto the heater core pipe until you hear an audible click

Outlet heater hose to the outlet radiator hose

Nut retaining the outlet heater hose pipe to the fuel filter mounting bracket and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Bolt retaining the heater hose pipe to the generator mounting bracket and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Outlet radiator hose to the radiator and the engine and tighten the hose clamps

Charged air cooler pipes and hoses to the turbocharger and the charged air cooler

Both fender wheelhouse inner panels

Both front tires and wheels and tighten the lug nuts in sequence as follows:

A. Single Wheel Axle: Torque to: 140 lb-ft. (190 Nm)

Wheel lug nut tightening sequence

Wheel lug nut tightening sequence

Surge tank

Air cleaner

The following engine wire harness connectors:

A. Mass air flow switch

B. Air continuation pressure cycling switch

C. Surge tank switch

D. Install the engine wire harness clip to the accumulator

Engine wire harness clips to tire wheelhouse inner panel

Engine wire harness clip to the engine bracket

Batteries negative cables

14. Fill the engine coolant.

15. Prelube the engine.

16. Refill the crankcase.

17. Recharge the air conditioning system.

18. Operate the engine, inspect for coolant, fuel, and exhaust leaks.

19. Inspect for proper oil pressure.

20. Inspect for proper engine operation.

21. Position the hood in the normal operating position by moving the hood hinge bolts from service position to normal operating position and tighten the bolts.

Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

22. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Flywheel/Flexplate

Removal & Installation

To Remove:

1. Remove the transmission.

2. If equipped with manual transmission, remove the clutch assembly.

3. Remove the bolts and the engine flywheel.

4. Clean and inspect all parts.

To Install:

1. Install the engine flywheel.

Tighten the bolts is a star pattern to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).

2.

If equipped with manual transmission, install the clutch assembly.

3. Install the transmission.

Flywheel Ring Gear (M/T)

Removal & Installation

To Remove:

WARNING

Use tongs and heat resistant gloves to prevent injury from hot material.

CAUTION

Do not heat the ring gear more then 500°F (260°C). Use a heat indicating crayon to determine correct temperature.

1. Remove the flywheel from the engine.

2. Heat the ring gear evenly with a torch to cause the ring gear to expand.

3. Use a brass drift and hammer to remove the ring gear from the flywheel.

To Install:

1. Heat the new ring gear evenly with a torch to cause the ring gear to expand.

2. Install the ring gear on the flywheel with the bevel facing the rear of the flywheel.

3. Heat and tap the ring gear as needed until installed squarely on the flywheel.

4. Install the flywheel on the engine.

Rocker Arm (Valve) Cover

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

Upper Left Side

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover

Upper intake manifold cover from the outlet duct

Upper intake manifold cover

3. Drain the cooling system.

4. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

Air cooler inlet duct

Air cooler inlet duct

Charged air cooler inlet duct to turbocharger clamp (A)

NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting.

Charged air cooler inlet duct from the turbocharger

Battery cable to alternator nut

Battery cable to the auxiliary alternator if equipped

Battery cable harness clip from the bracket

Battery cable junction block bolt from the power steering pump

5. Move and secure the battery cables out of the way.

6. Remove or disconnect the following:

Fuel lines

Fuel line bracket nut

Fuel injection control module harness connectors

 Fuel injection control module electrical connectors by lifting up on the latch in order

Fuel injection control module electrical connectors by lifting up on the latch in order to disconnect the connectors

Fuel injection control module wiring harness clip from the bracket

Fuel injection control module harness brackets

Fuel injector feed lines

Fuel injector feed lines

 Sleeve nut plate bolts and plates  Fuel injector feed lines  Upper valve

Sleeve nut plate bolts and plates

Fuel injector feed lines

Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts

Valve cover removal

1. NOTE: The valve rocker arm cover uses sealer. Pry only at the location shown

1. NOTE: The valve rocker arm cover uses sealer. Pry only at the location shown in order to avoid damage to the sealing surfaces.

2. Using a suitable tool at the prying location, loosen the upper valve rocker arm cover.

3. Remove the upper valve rocker arm cover.

4. If required, clean and inspect the upper valve rocker arm cover.

To Install:

NOTE: Apply a 1/8 inch (2 - 3 mm) wide, by 1/16 inch (0.5 - 1.5 mm) high bead of sealant to the upper valve rocker arm cover. Apply a bead of sealant to the area under the injector wire harness on the lower valve rocker arm cover.

1. Install or connect the following:

Upper valve rocker arm cover

Valve cover bolt tightening sequence

Valve cover bolt tightening sequence

Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts

Bolts 1 and 2 first, they are used to position the cover and tighten the upper valve rocker arm cover bolts in the sequence shown as follows:

A. Tighten the bolts in a first pass, Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

B. Tighten the bolts a final pass, Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Fuel injector feed lines and tighten the lines

A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)

Sleeve nut plates and bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)

PCV hose to the upper valve rocker arm cover

Fuel injection control module electrical connector bracket bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

Fuel injection control module electrical connectors bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (13 Nm)

Fuel injection control module electrical harness connectors

Fuel injection control module wiring harness to the retainer

Water outlet tube

Glow plug relay bracket

Auxiliary alternator if equipped

Fuel lines

Fuel hose bracket nut and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

2. Position the alternator positive cable.

Alternator positive cable in the clip on the engine front cover

Alternator positive cable and nut and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Positive battery cable junction block bracket and bolt to the power steering pump and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Tape from the turbocharger openings

Charged air cooler inlet duct to the turbocharger

4. Align the mark on the duct with the mark on the turbocharger.

5. Position and tighten the clamp

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

6. Install or connect the following:

Upper intake manifold cover

Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

7. Fill the cooling system.

8. Connect the negative battery cable.

9. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Upper Right Side

To Remove:

Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

1. Remove or disconnect the following:

Outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover

Upper intake manifold cover from the outlet duct

Upper intake manifold cover

NOTE: After removing the turbocharger air ducts, cover the turbocharger openings with tape to prevent entry of objects.

Outlet duct clamps at the turbocharger

Mass Air Flow/Intake Air Temperature (MAF/IAT) sensor

Outlet duct from the turbocharger

Charged air cooler outlet duct

Charged air cooler outlet duct  Charged air cooler outlet duct to intake hose clamp (A)

Charged air cooler outlet duct to intake hose clamp (A)

NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting.

Charged air cooler outlet duct from the intake

Heater outlet hose removal

Heater outlet hose removal  Heater outlet hose bolt (B) and nut (A)  Fuel filter

Heater outlet hose bolt (B) and nut (A)

Fuel filter mounting bolts

Fuel injection control module

2. Position the heater outlet hose out of the way.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose from the valve rocker arm cover

Fuel injector feed lines removal

Fuel injector feed lines removal  Sleeve nut plate bolts and plates  Fuel injector feed

Sleeve nut plate bolts and plates

Fuel injector feed pipes

Valve cover removal

Valve cover removal 1.  Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts and note the location of

1.

Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts and note the location of any wire harness clips

NOTE: The valve rocker arm cover uses sealer. Pry only at the location shown in order to avoid damage to the sealing surfaces.

2. Using a suitable tool at the prying location, loosen the upper valve rocker arm cover.

3. Remove the upper valve rocker arm cover.

To Install:

NOTE: Apply a 1/8 inch (2 - 3 mm) wide, by 1/16 inch (0.5 - 1.5 mm) high bead of sealant to the upper valve rocker arm cover. Apply a bead of sealant to the area under the injector wire harness on the lower valve rocker arm cover.

1. Install or connect the following:

Upper valve rocker arm cover

Valve cover bolt tightening sequence

Valve cover bolt tightening sequence

Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts by installing bolts 1 and 2 first, they are used to position the cover and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown as follows:

A. Tighten the bolts a first pass,

B. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

C. Tighten the bolts a final pass, Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Fuel injector feed lines and tighten the lines

A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)

Sleeve nut plates and bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)

PCV hoses to the upper valve rocker arm cover

Fuel filter mounting bolts

Fuel injection control module

Heater outlet hose and tighten the heater hose bracket bolt and nut

A. Torque the nut to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Torque the bolt to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

Tape from the turbocharger openings

Charged air cooler outlet duct to the intake

2. Align the mark on the duct to the mark on the intake .

3. Position the clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp.

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

4. Install or connect the following:

Outlet duct to the turbocharger

NOTE: The outlet duct must be fully seated against the MAT/IAT sensor with the edge of the seal in the vertical position.

6. Install or connect the following:

Outlet duct to the MAF/IAT sensor and tighten the outlet duct clamps at the turbocharger and the MAF/IAT sensor

A. Torque the clamps to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

Upper intake manifold cover

Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover

A. Torque the clamp to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

7. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Lower Left Side

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Upper left valve rocker arm cover (See: Left Upper Valve Cover)

Left fuel injector harness removal

Left fuel injector harness removal  Fuel injector electrical connectors NOTE: Do not drop the injector

Fuel injector electrical connectors

NOTE: Do not drop the injector harness bolts in the cylinder head oil return ports.

Injector harness bracket bolts for both injector harnesses

3. Loosen the encapsulated injector wire terminal nuts on each injector.

4. Remove or disconnect the following:

Injector harnesses.

Lower valve cover removal Lower valve cover removal
Lower valve cover removal
Lower valve cover removal

Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts

Lower valve rocker arm cover

Gasket from the lower valve rocker arm cover

5. If required, clean and inspect the lower valve rocker arm cover.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Lower valve rocker arm cover gasket

Lower valve rocker arm cover

Lower valve cover bolt tightening sequence

Lower valve cover bolt tightening sequence

Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts starting with bolts 1 and 2, they are used to position the cover and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown

A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Injector harnesses

Injector harness bracket bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

The encapsulated injector wire terminal nuts on each injector and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)

Fuel injector electrical connectors

Upper left valve rocker arm cover (See: Left Upper Valve Cover)

2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Lower Right Side

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Upper right valve rocker arm cover

Right fuel injector harness removal

Right fuel injector harness removal  Fuel injector electrical connectors NOTE: Do not drop the injector

Fuel injector electrical connectors

NOTE: Do not drop the injector harness bolts in the cylinder head oil return ports

Injector harness bracket bolts for both injector harnesses

3. Loosen the encapsulated injector wire terminal nuts on each injector.

4. Remove or disconnect the following:

Both injector harnesses

Right lower valve cover removal

Right lower valve cover removal  Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts  Lower valve rocker

Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts

Lower valve rocker arm cover

Gasket from the lower valve rocker arm cover

5. If required, clean and inspect the lower valve rocker arm cover.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

 Lower valve rocker arm cover gasket  Lower valve rocker arm cover  Lower
Lower valve rocker arm cover gasket
Lower valve rocker arm cover
Lower valve cover bolt tightening sequence
Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts starting with bolts 1 and 2, they are
used to position the cover and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown
A.
Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Injector harnesses
Injector harness bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A.
Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Tighten the encapsulated injector wire terminal nuts on each injector
A.
Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
Fuel injector electrical connectors
Right upper valve rocker arm cover (See: Right Upper Valve Cover)

2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

Thermostat

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Drain the engine coolant.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Water outlet

6.6L Thermostat housing removal

6.6L Thermostat housing removal

Bolt for the fuel line bracket

Thermostat housing cover bolts

Thermostats and seals

To Install:

6.6L Thermostats and seals

6.6L Thermostats and seals

1. Install or connect the following:

Thermostats and seals to the thermostat housing

NOTE: The rear thermostat (D) has 2 vent valves. Install with the vent valves towards the rear of engine.

Thermostat housing cover with a NEW gasket

Thermostat housing cover bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

Fuel line bracket bolt and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

Water outlet

2. Fill the engine with coolant.

3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Cylinder Head

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

Both Sides

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Relieve the fuel system pressure (See: Fuel Pressure Relieving).

3. Drain the coolant system.

4. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cables

Left or right front splash shield from the fender well, as applicable

Turbocharger (See: Turbocharger)

Turbocharger charged air cooler inlet duct

Thermostat housing crossover

Left or right intake manifold, as necessary (See: Intake Manifold)

Upper left or right valve cover (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover - Upper)

Fuel rail assembly

Left or right exhaust manifold (See: Exhaust Manifold)

Bolt and ground straps from the rear of the cylinder head

Lower left or right valve cover (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover - Lower)

Rocker arm shaft assembly (See: Rocker Arm/Shafts)

Glow plugs (See: Glow Plugs)

Fuel injector return pipe eye bolts and washers

Fuel injector return pipe assembly

Fuel injector bracket bolts

Fuel injectors with the brackets, using a suitable removal tool

Injector bracket pins

Cylinder head bolts, in the proper sequence

Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-6.6L diesel engine

Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence-6.6L diesel engine  Cylinder head and gasket and discard the gasket

Cylinder head and gasket and discard the gasket

To Install:

1. Clean the mating surfaces of the heads and block thoroughly.

2. Position a new left or right side head gasket on the block and notice that the left and right side gaskets are not interchangeable.

NOTE: The cylinder head bolts on these vehicles are precoated with an application of a molybdenum disulfide for thread lubrication. Do not remove the coating or add any additional lubrication.

3. Install or connect the following:

Cylinder head and bolts and tighten in sequence as follows:

A. Step 1: M12 bolts, Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

B. Step 2: M12 bolts, Torque to: 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)

C. Step 3: Tighten the M12 bolts, Torque to: an additional 150 degrees using a torque angle meter

D. Step 4: M8 bolts, Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-6.6L diesel engines

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-6.6L diesel engines 1.  New O-ring onto the fuel injectors after

1.

New O-ring onto the fuel injectors after coating with clean engine oil

New copper washer into the fuel injector bore in the cylinder head

Fuel injector bracket pin

NOTE: If you are reusing the old injectors, clean the carbon from the tips, but do not use a wire brush.

Fuel injector bracket bolt and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Fuel injector return pipe assembly

Fuel injector return pipe-to-injector eye bolts and washers and tighten the eye bolts

A. Torque to: 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)

Fuel return pipe-to-cylinder head eye bolts and washers and tighten the eye bolts

A. Torque to: 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)

Bolt and ground straps to the rear of the cylinder head and tighten

A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Valve rocker shaft assembly (See: Rocker Arm/Shafts)

Lower and upper valve covers (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover Upper and Lower)

Glow plugs (See: Glow Plugs)

Exhaust manifold (Exhaust Manifold)

Fuel rail assembly

Intake manifold (See: Intake Manifold)

Thermostat housing crossover

Turbocharger charged air cooler duct

Clamp and hose to the charged air cooler and tighten

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

Turbocharger (See: Turbocharger)

Fender splash shield

Negative battery cables

Cooling system with the proper type and quantity of antifreeze

Negative battery cables

New engine oil and oil filter

4. Evacuate and recharge the air conditioning system.

5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Rocker Arms and Pushrods

Removal & Installation

Both Sides

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Lower valve rocker arm covers

Loosen the valve clearance 6.6L

valve rocker arm covers Loosen the valve clearance 6.6L 3. Loosen the valve clearance lock nuts

3. Loosen the valve clearance lock nuts on each rocker arm

Loosen the rocker arm shaft in sequence 6.6L

Loosen the rocker arm shaft in sequence 6.6L NOTE: The valve rocker arm bolts retain the

NOTE: The valve rocker arm bolts retain the rocker arms on the shaft. Do not remove the bolts from the rocker arm shaft brackets.

5. Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts in the proper sequence and leave the bolts in the rocker arm shaft brackets.

6. Remove or disconnect the following:

Rocker arm shaft

Valve spring caps and pushrods removal

Valve spring caps and pushrods removal 1.  Valve spring caps  Valve lifter bridges 

1.

Valve spring caps

Valve lifter bridges

Pushrods

7. Clean all parts in a suitable cleaning solvent.

8. Disassemble the rocker arm shafts if needed as follows:

Rocker arm shaft disassembly

Rocker arm shaft disassembly

Remove the rocker arm shaft bracket bolts (A)

Remove the bracket (L), rocker arm (K), and spring (J)

Remove the remaining rocker arms, springs, and brackets

9. If required, clean and inspect the valve rocker arm and shaft.

To Install:

Rocker arm shaft assembly

Rocker arm shaft assembly

Lubricate the rocker arm shaft (G) and the inside of the rocker arms with clean engine oil

Install the rocker arm bracket (L) on one end of the rocker arm shaft with bolt

Install the intake rocker arm (I), spring (J), exhaust rocker arm (K), and bracket with bolt. Continue in the same sequence to the last bracket

Push the bracket to compress the springs and then install the bolt

2. Lubricate the top of the valves, the valve bridge stem, the valve lifter bridge, and the valve spring caps with clean engine oil.

3. Install or connect the following:

Valve spring caps

Valve lifter bridges

4. Lubricate the valve lifter end of the pushrod with clean engine oil.

5. Install or connect the following:

Pushrods

NOTE: To ensure the pushrod is properly installed, gently pull up on the pushrod. You should feel resistance from the pushrod trying to lift the valve lifter.

6. Lubricate the following with clean engine oil during installation:

Rocker arm shaft bolt threads

Tops of the push rods

Rocker arms

Rocker arm shaft

7. Install the rocker arm shaft with bolts.

Tighten the rocker arm shaft in sequence 6.6L

Tighten the rocker arm shaft in sequence 6.6L 8. Tighten the rocker arm shaft bolts in

8. Tighten the rocker arm shaft bolts in the sequence shown

Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)

9. Adjust the valve clearance (See: Valve Clearance Adjust)

10. Install the lower valve rocker arm covers (See: Lower Rocker Arm Cover)

11. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

Valve Clearance Adjustment

6.6L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Fan clutch (See: Fan)

Upper valve rocker arm covers (See: Upper Rocker Arm Cover)

3. Rotate the crankshaft in order to bring the number 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.

4. The number 1 cylinder is the front cylinder on the right bank.

5. The mark on the crankshaft damper should be aligned with the mark on the engine.

Valve clearance procedure

Valve clearance procedure

6.

Loosen the valve adjusting screws.

7. Insert a feeler gage between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve lifter bridge.

Valve clearance adjustment specifications chart

feeler gage between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve lifter bridge. Valve clearance

Valve locations

Valve locations 8. Adjust the valve lash to 0.0112 inch (0.3 mm) according to Valve Clearance

8. Adjust the valve lash to 0.0112 inch (0.3 mm) according to Valve Clearance Adjustment Specifications chart to determine which valves can be adjusted when the engine is at TDC and tighten the lock nut.

Torque to: 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)

9. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution in order to bring the number 1 cylinder to TDC of the exhaust stroke.

10. Loosen the valve adjusting screws.

11. Insert a feeler gage between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve lifter bridge.

12. Adjust the valve clearance to 0.0112 inch (0.3 mm) according to Valve Clearance Adjustment Specifications to determine which valves can be adjusted when the engine is at TDC and tighten lock nut.

Torque to: 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)

13. Install or connect the following:

Upper valve rocker arm covers (See: Upper Rocker Arm Cover, for more information)

Fan clutch (See: Fan, for more information)

14. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Intake Manifold

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

NOTE: This procedure is for replacement of the left or right intake manifold.

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Batteries cables

Turbocharger (See: Turbocharger)

Fuel junction block

Left or right fuel rail

Intake manifold tube

9 bolts and 2 nuts from the intake manifold

NOTE: A bolt is located in the manifold opening.

NOTE: The intake manifold uses sealer. If necessary, pry at the area by the common rail bolt holes and be careful to avoid damaging the sealing surfaces.

Intake manifold from the head and cover the head openings to prevent debris from entering

4. Clean all gaskets surface.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

A 1/8 in. (2-3mm) wide to 1/16 in (0.5-1.5mm) high bead of sealant to the sealing surface of the intake manifold

NOTE: The left and right side manifolds are NOT interchangeable.

Intake manifold

Bolts and nuts and tighten the bolts and nuts in sequence

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Left side intake manifold bolt tightening sequence-6.6L engine Right side intake manifold bolt tightening sequence-6.6L
Left side intake manifold bolt tightening sequence-6.6L engine
Right side intake manifold bolt tightening sequence-6.6L engine

Intake manifold tube

Fuel rail

Fuel junction block

Turbocharger (See: Turbocharger)

Negative battery cables

2. Fill cooling system.

3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repair

Exhaust Manifold

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

Left Side

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Bolts securing the left exhaust pipe heat shield. Move the heat shield aside for access to the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts

Left exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts

Left front wheel

Left front fender splash shield

Charge air cooler duct

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and shield

2 nuts and 6 bolts with the plain washer and bell view washer from the left manifold

Exhaust manifold by removing it from the rear, then the front studs and sliding it out the bottom, past the oil filter

Exhaust manifold gasket and discard

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Exhaust manifold with gasket

Exhaust manifold bolts/nuts and using the sequence shown, tighten the exhaust manifold bolts

6.6L exhaust manifold bolt tightening sequence

6.6L exhaust manifold bolt tightening sequence

A. Tighten the bolts/nut a first pass, Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

B. Tighten the bolts/nuts a final pass, Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

Exhaust manifold heat shield

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Exhaust pipe gasket. Align the tab on the gasket to face outward

Exhaust pipe and the bolts to the exhaust manifold and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Install or connect the following:

Exhaust pipe heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Charged air cooler outlet duct

Wheelhouse panel

Wheel lug nut tightening sequence

duct  Wheelhouse panel Wheel lug nut tightening sequence  Wheel and tire assembly and tighten

Wheel and tire assembly and tighten the lug nuts in sequence

A. Torque to: 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)

4. Lower the vehicle

Right Side

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Right front wheel

Right front fender splash shield

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and shield

Right exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts

2 nuts and 6 bolts with the plain washer and bell view washer from the left manifold

Exhaust manifold by removing it from the rear, then the front studs and sliding it out the bottom, past the oil filter

Bolt for the oil level dipstick tube, to remove the gasket

Exhaust manifold gasket and discard

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Exhaust manifold with new gasket and tighten the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts in sequence as follows:

A. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts on the first pass, Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

B. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts on the second pass, Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

Oil level dipstick tube and tighten the oil level dipstick tube

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Right exhaust pipe to manifold and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (59 Nm)

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and shield and tighten the heat shield bolts

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Right front fender splash shield

Wheel lug nut tightening sequence

Wheel lug nut tightening sequence 1.  Wheel and tire assembly and tighten the lug nuts

1.

Wheel and tire assembly and tighten the lug nuts in sequence

A. Torque to: 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)

2. Lower the vehicle.

3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

Turbocharger

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cables.

3. Open the hood and move the hinge bolts to the service position.

4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

5. Drain the coolant.

6. Remove or disconnect the following:

Exhaust pipe-to-exhaust outlet clamp and move the clamp onto the exhaust pipe

Transmission fluid fill tube-to-bell housing nuts if equipped with an A/T and position the tube to the right side of the vehicle; it does not need to be removed from the transmission

3 nuts and left exhaust heat shield from the front of the lower dash panel

Left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts

7. Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield to access the left exhaust pipe-to- manifold bolts but do not remove the heat shield from the vehicle at this time.

NOTE: Do not bend the exhaust pipe at the expansion area.

Left and right exhaust pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts

Exhaust manifold gaskets and discard

Lower bolt for the exhaust outlet shield

8. Lower the vehicle.

9. Remove or disconnect the following:

Upper intake manifold sight shield front retaining bolt

Sight shield by lifting up on the front of the shield, then lifting it off the rear bracket

Air cleaner outlet duct front he air cleaner and turbocharger and cover the openings to prevent debris from entering

Loosen the charged air cooler outlet duct-to-intake hose clamps

Hose from the charged air cooler duct-to-intake manifold tube by twisting it

A/C compressor clutch electrical connector

A/C cut-out switch connector

Drive belt

A/C compressor mounting bolts, then position the compressor aside with the lines attached

Turbocharger inlet coolant hose from the bypass valve

Turbocharger outlet coolant hose from the turbocharger

PCV hose from the left valve cover and position aside

Wire connector from the intake heater

Intake air heater relay, if equipped

Heat shield-to-turbocharger bolts and heat shield

Remaining 2 bolts from the exhaust outlet heat shield

Exhaust outlet heat shield

4 bolts and 2 nuts from the exhaust outlet but you do not have to remove the outlet for turbocharger removal

10. Move the exhaust outlet to one side in order to access the right exhaust pipe-to- turbocharger bolts.

11. Remove or disconnect the following:

Exhaust outlet gasket and discard

Right exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger bolts

Right exhaust pipe and gasket

12. Move the exhaust outlet to one side for access to the left pipe.

Left exhaust pipe heat shield

Left exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger bolts

Left exhaust pipe and gasket

Turbocharger oil supply hose eye bolt and washers and move the hose aside

Turbocharger oil drain pipe nuts from the flywheel housing

Turbocharger mounting bolts

Turbocharger with the oil drain pipe

13. If replacing the turbocharger, remove the oil drain pipe and coolant hose.

To Install:

1. Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces.

2. Install or connect the following:

Turbocharger oil drain pipe and new gasket and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

Turbocharger inlet coolant hose

Turbocharger oil supply hose to the engine block

Turbocharger oil supply hose eye bolt and washers and tighten the eye bolt

A. Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

Turbocharger lower heat shield

Turbocharger and tighten the 3 mounting bolts

A. Torque to: 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

New gasket for oil drain pipe

Oil drain pipe nuts and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

NOTE: If installing a new turbocharger, pour 4-5 oz. of clean engine oil into the turbocharger supply hose opening, while rotating the impeller.

Oil supply hose, using new washers and tighten the eye bolt

A. Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).

NOTE: Position the left exhaust pipe. The pipe flanges are different. Ensure the proper pipe flange is towards the turbocharger. Align the turbocharger gaskets at the turbocharger with the tab on the gasket facing inward. To aid in installing the pipe to the turbocharger temporarily install one of the pipe to manifold bolts.

Left exhaust pipe to the turbocharger with a new gasket and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)

3. Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield, but do not install the bolts.

4. Install or connect the following:

Right exhaust pipe with a new gasket to the turbocharger

Right exhaust pipe to turbocharger bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)

Exhaust outlet with a new gasket to the turbocharger

Exhaust outlet bolts and nuts and tighten the bolts/nuts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)

Exhaust outlet heat shield

Upper 2 exhaust outlet heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Turbocharger heat shield

Turbocharger heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

PCV hose to the upper left valve rocker arm cover

Turbocharger outlet coolant hose to the turbocharger

Turbocharger inlet coolant hose to the turbocharger coolant bypass valve

Inlet air heater relay

Wire terminal and the nut to intake air heater and tighten the nut

A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)

A/C compressor

A/C compressor bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Drive belt

A/C cut out switch electrical connector

A/C clutch electrical connector

5. Remove the tape from the turbocharger openings if necessary.

6. Install or connect the following:

Charged air cooler snip duct and align the mark on the duct with the mark on the turbocharger

Clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

Charged air cooler outlet duct on the intake and align the mark on the duct with the mark on the intake

Clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

Outlet duct to turbocharger

7. Align the outlet duct alignment indicator to the turbocharger alignment indicator.

NOTE: The outlet duct must be fully seated against the MAT/IAT sensor with the edge of the seal in the vertical position.

8. Install or connect the following:

Outlet duct to the MAT/IAT sensor and tighten the outlet duct clamps at the turbocharger and the MAT/IAT sensor

Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

9. Raise the vehicle.

Lower exhaust outlet heat shield bolt and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Right exhaust pipe with a new gasket to exhaust manifold and align the tab on the exhaust pipe gasket facing outward

Right exhaust pipe bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)

Left exhaust pipe with a NEW gasket to exhaust manifold and align the tab on the exhaust pipe gasket facing outward

Left exhaust pipe bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)

Left exhaust pipe heat shield

Left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)

Exhaust heat shield to left font of the dash panel

Shield nuts and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)

Fill tube if equipped

Fill tube nuts and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)

Exhaust pipe clamp

NOTE: To assist in positioning the clamp on the flanges use a suitable screw jack to hold the exhaust pipe in position.

Tighten the clamp

A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

11. Lower the vehicle.

12. Fill the cooling system.

13. Install or connect the following:

Upper intake manifold cover

Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover

A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)

14. Position the hood in the normal operating position by moving the hood hinge bolts from the service position to the normal operating position and tighten the bolts.

Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

15. Connect the negative battery cables.

16. Road test the vehicle for normal operation.

17. Inspect for coolant, oil, or exhaust leaks.

NOTE: Operate the engine at idle for at least 3 minutes after installing the turbocharger.

Radiator

Removal & Installation

To Remove:

WARNING

To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is on or is still hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if radiator cap or surge tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.

CAUTION

If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or has repeatedly needed coolant or water added to the system, then the system should be completely flushed.

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Inlet hose from the radiator

Radiator outlet hose from the radiator

Lower fan shroud

Vent inlet hose from the radiator

Surge tank hose

Engine oil cooler lines from the radiator

Transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator

Remove the radiator

Remove the radiator

Radiator bolts

Radiator from the vehicle

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Radiator to the vehicle

Radiator bolts and tighten the bolts,

A. Torque to: 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm)

Engine oil cooler lines to the radiator

Transmission oil cooler lines to the radiator

Radiator vent inlet hose to the radiator

Lower fan shroud

Outlet hose to the radiator

Inlet hose to the radiator

2. Fill the cooling system.

3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Radiator Surge Tank

Removal & Installation

WARNING

With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator will be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. Serious bodily injury may result if care is not exercised when removing surge tank cap.

To Remove:

1. Drain the cooling system below the level of the surge tank.

2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

3. Remove the surge tank overflow hose from the surge tank. 4. Remove the low

3. Remove the surge tank overflow hose from the surge tank.

4. Remove the low coolant level switch electrical connector.

5. Reposition the surge tank inlet hose clamp.

6. Remove the surge tank inlet (upper) hose from the surge tank.

7. Reposition the surge tank outlet hose clamp.

8. Remove the surge tank inlet (lower) hose from the surge tank.

9. Remove the bolt and nut from the surge tank.

10. Remove the surge tank.

To Install:

1. Position the surge tank on vehicle.

2. Install the bolt and nut.

3. Install the surge tank inlet (lower) hose to the surge tank and position clamp.

4. Install the surge tank inlet (upper) hose to the surge tank and position clamp.

5. Connect the low coolant level switch electrical connector.

6. Install the surge tank overflow hose.

7. Install the air cleaner assembly.

8. Fill the cooling system.

Fan Blade and Clutch

Removal & Installation

To Remove:

1. Remove the upper fan shroud.

J41240 Fan Tool

J41240 Fan Tool

2. Install the J 41240 or other suitable tool to the fan clutch.

Fan and Clutch removal

Fan and Clutch removal

3.

Remove fan hub nut from water pump.

4. Remove the fan clutch and blade.

5. Lay the fan blade face down on a workbench.

Fan Blade from Clutch removal

Fan Blade from Clutch removal

6. Remove the fan clutch bolts from the rear of the fan blade, if necessary.

7. Separate the fan clutch from the fan blade.

To Install:

CAUTION

Do not use or attempt to repair a damaged cooling fan assembly. Replace damaged fans with new assemblies. An unbalanced cooling fan could fly apart causing personal Injury and property damage.

1. Install or connect the following:

Fan clutch onto the fan blade

Fan clutch bolts

Fan clutch bolts and tighten the bolts;

A. Torque to: 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

Fan blade and clutch

The J 41240 or other suitable tool to the fan clutch

A. Tighten the fan clutch nut; Torque to: 41 ft. lbs. (56 Nm)

Upper fan shroud

2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Water Pump

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.

2. Remove the left front fender wheelhouse inner panel.

3. Drain the coolant.

4. Remove or disconnect the following:

Thermostat housing crossover

Fan clutch

Crankshaft damper (See: Crankshaft Damper)

6.6L Oil cooler to water pump removal

6.6L Oil cooler to water pump removal

Oil cooler pipe-to-water pump nuts

Engine wiring harness retainer from the inner stud

6.6L Water pump removal

6.6L Water pump removal

Water pump bolts, noting their locations as they are different lengths

Water pump and gasket

To Install:

1. Lubricate the water pump O-ring with engine oil.

2. Install or connect the following:

Water pump

Water pump bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Water pump-to-water pump outlet gasket

Engine wiring harness retainer on the water pump outlet pipe inner stud

Oil cooler-to-water pump nuts and tighten the nuts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Thermostat housing crossover

Crankshaft damper

Fan clutch

3. Fill the cooling system and install the left front fender wheelhouse inner panel.

4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Drive Belt Idler Pulley

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

2001-2004

To Remove:

1. Remove the drive belt.

6.6L Engine 2001-2004 To Remove: 1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Remove the bolt from the

2. Remove the bolt from the right side idler pulley (ribbed pulley).

4.

Remove the bolt from the center idler pulley (smooth pulley).

5. Remove the idler pulley.

6. Remove the bolt from the left side idler pulley (if equipped with dual generators).

7. Remove the left side idler pulley (if equipped with dual generators).

To Install:

1. Install the right side idler pulley and bolt.

Torque to; 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm)

2. Install the center idler pulley and bolt.

Torque to; 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm)

3. Install the left side idler pulley and bolt (if equipped with dual generators).

Torque to; 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm)

4. Install the drive belt.

Drive Belt Tensioner

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

2001-2004

To Remove:

1. Remove the drive belt.

Drive Belt Tensioner Removal & Installation 6.6L Engine 2001-2004 To Remove: 1. Remove the drive belt.

2.

Remove the drive belt tensioner bolt.

3. Remove the drive belt tensioner.

To Install:

1. Install the drive belt tensioner by aligning the pin with the hole in the generator bracket.

2. Install the drive belt tensioner bolt.

Torque to: 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm)

3. Install the drive belt.

Oil Pan

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

Lower Oil Pan

To Remove:

1. Drain the engine oil.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Oil pan skid plate if equipped

Crossbar

Oil level sensor connector

Lower oil pan bolts and nuts

Lower oil pan from the lower crankcase

Lower oil pan

Oil level sensor removal

lower crankcase  Lower oil pan Oil level sensor removal  Oil level sensor (A), bolt

Oil level sensor (A), bolt (B) and clip (C) if necessary

To Install:

1. Clean all sealing surfaces.

2. Apply a 1/8 inch (2mm) bead of sealant to the oil pan sealing surface.

3. Install or connect the following:

Oil pan sensor, bolt and clip if necessary and tighten the bolt

A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Oil pan and tighten the bolts and nuts

A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Oil level sensor connector

Crossbar

Crossbar bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 74 lb-ft. (100 Nm)

Oil pan skid plate if equipped

Oil pan skid plate bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 lb-ft. (20 Nm)

4. Refill engine with oil.

5. Test drive to confirm the repairs.

Upper Oil Pan

To Remove:

1. Drain the engine oil.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Front differential carrier (4WD vehicles)(See: Axle Housing Front, for detailed information)

Relay rod from the pitman arm and idler arm if equipped (See: Pitman Arm, for detailed information)

Transmission (See: Manual Transmission or Automatic Transmission, for detailed information)

Lower oil pan (See: Oil Pan Lower, for detailed information)

Flywheel/Flexplate (See: Flywheel/Flexplate, for detailed information)

Positive and negative battery cable bracket bolts and bracket from the front of the upper oil pan

Positive and negative battery cable bracket nut and bracket from the right side of the upper oil pan

2 engine flywheel housing to upper oil pan bolts (refer to denoted black triangles on accompanying figure)

Remove only the flywheel housing-to-upper oil pan bolts designated with a black triangle-6.6L engine

oil pan bolts designated with a black triangle-6.6L engine 1.  Upper oil pan bolts and

1.

Upper oil pan bolts and any brackets

Upper oil pan from the engine block

Upper oil pan

NOTE: The oil dipstick tube needs to be removed while lowering the upper oil pan.

To Install:

1. Clean all sealing surfaces.

3.

Install or connect the following:

Upper oil pan; make sure the dipstick is installed into the upper pan

Upper pan bolts and brackets and tighten the bolts in sequence

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Upper oil pan bolt tightening sequence-6.6L engine

(20 Nm) Upper oil pan bolt tightening sequence-6.6L engine  2 engine flywheel housing to upper

2 engine flywheel housing to upper oil pan bolts (refer to denoted black triangles on accompanying figure) and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Positive and negative battery cable bracket nut and bracket to the right side of the upper oil pan

Positive and negative battery cable bracket bolts and bracket from the front of the upper oil pan

Flywheel/Flexplate (See: Flywheel/Flexplate)

Lower oil pan (See: Oil Pan Lower)

Transmission (See: Manual Transmission or Automatic Transmission)

Relay rod from the pitman arm and idler arm if equipped (See: Pitman Arm)

Front differential carrier (4WD vehicles)(See: Axle Housing Front)

4. Refill engine with oil.

5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Oil Pump

Removal & Installation

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

1. Drain the engine oil.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Engine flywheel housing (2WD vehicles)

Engine front cover

Upper oil pan

Oil pump pipe and screen and gasket

3. Block the crankshaft from turning with a wooden dowel.

Oil pump driven gear nut

Oil pump driven gear

NOTE: The crankshaft reluctor and oil pump drive gear are timed together at the factory. Do not remove the reluctor from the oil pump drive gear or damage the reluctor teeth.

Oil pump drive gear and crankshaft reluctor assembly using a brass drift and tapping as close to the center of the reluctor assembly

3 hex head and 1 Allen head bolt

Oil pump

Oil pump O-ring seal

Oil pump gear cover bolts and cover

4. Measure the clearance between the gear teeth and oil pump housing using a feeler gauge.

5. The production clearance is 0.0049-0.0087 in. (0.125-0.221mm) and the service limit is 0.0087 in. (0.221mm).

6. Replace the pump if the clearance exceeds the service limit.

7. Use a feeler gauge and a straightedge to measure the clearance between the side of the gear and the cover.

8. The production clearance is 0.0025-0.0043 in. (0.064-0.109mm) and the service limit is 0.0043 in. (0.109mm).

9. Replace the pump if the clearance exceeds the service limit.

10. Calculate the driven gear shaft-to-bushing clearance:

Measure the driven gear shaft outside diameter

The production specification is 0.7853-0.7858 in. (19.947-19.960mm) and the service limit is 0.7819 in. (19.86mm)

Measure the driven gear bushing inside diameter

The production value is 0.7874 in. (20mm)

Calculate the driven gear shaft-to-bushing clearance

The service limit is 0.0055 in. (0.14mm)

Replace the pump if the clearance exceeds the service limit

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Oil pump gear cover and bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

New O-ring seal for the oil pump

Oil pump and bolts and tighten the bolts

A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

2. Check the oil pump drive gear for wear and replace the gear pin if necessary.

3. Install or connect the following:

Oil pump drive gear and reluctor

Oil pump driven gear and nut

Block the crankshaft from moving and then tighten

A. Torque to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)

Oil pump pipe and screen gasket to the oil pump (4WD vehicle)

Oil pump pipe and screen (4WD vehicle)

Oil pump pipe and screen bolts and nuts (4WD vehicle) and tighten the bolts and nuts

A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Engine front cover

Engine flywheel housing (2WD vehicle)

Upper oil pan

4. Refill the crankcase with oil.

5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Rear Main Seal

6.6L Engine

To Remove:

Please note that the entire transmission assembly must be removed before performing this procedure. Before a new seal is installed, the Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) and crankcase ventilation system should be cleaned and inspected. In addition, use care removing the flywheel. Some models use a heavy, dual mass flywheel that must be handled with care.

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.