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Global business,
local success
The approach of a new year signals more than just a change
of calendars its when we take stock of where weve been,
consider where were headed, and predict which of the
trends weve encountered along the way will continue with
us, bubbling like champagne from one year to the next.
Regarding the first point, hows this for an inventory of
places weve been since last January? Macau, Hong Kong,
Shanghai, Iceland, Tucson, Vicenza, Milan, Israel, Basel, Las
Vegas, Mumbai, Delhi, Bangkok, London, and, of course, New York (our editorial home base).
What that eclectic list is meant to demonstrate is that COUTURE International Jeweler has a
uniquely global perspective on the shifting currents of the jewelry business. Our mission is to be a
resource for people seeking cutting-edge design and trend information from all four corners of the
earth. This not only distinguishes us from other trade journals but sets us apart in the wider world of
magazines, too.
Every quarter, we mail 10,000 copies of the latest issue to the finest jewelry retail and distribution
operations located in more than 100 countries on six of the seven continents (if Antarctica had a
couture jewelry outpost, wed get there, too). We consider CIJ an important bridge between buyers
and sellers at the upper echelons of this far-flung, fragmented trade.
All this is by way of addressing our second point, the one that clarifies where were headed. While
2009 may indeed be a difficult year for the luxury business, were committed to delivering well-edited,
on-the-ground information to our readers, and, hopefully, serving as a critical factor in their ongoing
success. Were convinced that the global business opportunities outlined on our pages will play a key
role in those efforts.
Speaking of timely information, that brings us to the final point of our year-end inventory, in which
we scrutinize the trends that have emerged over the past year and forecast which ones will demand
your attention in the months ahead. More than an exercise in fashionable frivolity, our annual Designing
the Trends issue is a snapshot of the collective mood of couture jewelers worldwide. What looks will be
front and center in the new year? Where are the best sourcing opportunities? What issues and ideas
are shaping the business and how do they correspond to the wider world?
A magazine that answers these questions and more will be an indispensable tool in the greater
campaign to help your businesses thrive, even, or perhaps especially, in a challenging environment.
We believe COUTURE International Jeweler fits the bill, and we sincerely hope you agree. Happy
new year and best wishes for a successful season. We look forward to serving you during what is
sure to be a remarkable year.

Victoria Gomelsky




47 18

On the cover
Carrera y Carrera
Shangai Necklace Yellow Gold
& White, Brilliants, Yellow Gold

no 285 - 4/2008

46 Designer Profile

08 Trends & Colors Spotlight

52 Tastemakers An influential color

Every December, we
stake our claims on the
trends and colors we
think will have staying
power in the new
year. For 2009,
well venture a bold prediction: In spite
(or because) of the
darkening economy, you
can count on a vivid year.

Clodagh is a one-named decorating
wonder. From her New York base, she
runs a thriving interior design business
founded upon eco-conscious values.

forecaster, a fashion maven and a blogger with big

ideas offer us a peak into their crystal balls.


Leslie Harrington 52
Mary Gehlhar 54
Piers Fawkes 56

70 Influences From Russia

come a cohort of talented jewelers with
designs on the Faberge legacy. At the other
end of the spectrum lie the faux jewels that ruled
the spring 09 runways. Meanwhile, Bangkoks
Lotus Arts de Vivre spreads its home decor wings.




Blackberry Collection









Fashion and Fine Jewelry

Editors Letter 01
London 64

On the brink of what promises to be a rather

complicated year, we look at the fine jewelry
industrys answer to recession style.

Fine art meets furniture

at DesignArt London, the
premier fair for discerning
collectors of design.

Spring 2009 Fashion Preview 42

76 Couture Practices In traditionbound Delhi, Hazoorilal embraces modernity

without sacrificing its old-school Indian values.

Marketplace: Mumbai 62



The IIJS show promotes made-in-India jewels

to a growing crowd of foreigners.

78 Couture Practices Kwiat, the

Editorial Index 77

100-year-old diamond jeweler, opens a New

York flagship that aims to showcase its elegant
baubles in the right light.

Freely Speaking 80
Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille is
convinced that city-states
such as Dubai hold the
secret to success.


The Official
Jewelry Magazine of
Couture 2009
COUTURE International Jeweler, 25 route des Acacias, CH - 1227 Genve, Switzerland
Tel. +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, Help desk: jricher@europastar.com

Crafted in Italy


For more information please call 1-877-996-6789

2 0 0 9




March 26-April 2
BaselWorld at the
Basel Convention
Center: The superlative
event of the global
luxury business, not
to be missed

New York:
January 18-20 and
July 26-29
JA New York Winter
and Summer Shows
at Javits Convention
Center: Timely fairs
with a broad selection,
from mass to class

Las Vegas:
May 28-June 2
Couture show at the
Wynn Las Vegas: A meeting
place for the cream of the
jewelry crop
JCK Las Vegas at the
Sands Expo & Convention
Center: Welcome to the
jewelry trades grand bazaar

February 4-9
AGTA GemFair at
Tucson Convention
Center: The greatest
gem show on earth

January 19-23
Salon International de
la Haute Horlogerie
(SIHH) at Geneva
Palexpo: An invitationonly salon, home to
a coterie of elite
watch brands
January 14-18
Iberjoya at Feria
de Madrid: Spains
most progressive
jewelry showcase,
for both Spanish and
foreign jewelers

February 22-25
About J at
Superstudio+ in
Zona Tortona:
Italys answer to
the Couture event
in Las Vegas

Where in the world will

you be in 2009? Plan
your travels using our
handy map showing the
years most important
jewelry fairs, conferences
and events. See you there!

06 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

September 6-9
International Jewellery
London at Earls Court
Exhibition Centre: Britains
best talent under one roof

St. Petersburg:
February 4-8
Junwex at the Lenexpo Fairgrounds in
Gavan: Russian retailers get their jewelry
fix at this up-and-coming event

May 25-June 1
The Moscow World Fine
Art Fair at the Manege,
Red Square: Oligarchs
do their shopping at this
glitzy event

January 11-18,
May 16-20 and
September 12-16
First, Charm and
Choice at the
Vicenza fairgrounds:
A jewelry trifecta in
the heart of Italys
March 21-24
gold region
www.vicenzaoro.org OroArezzo at the
Arezzo Trade
Meeting Centre:
Jewelers from all
across Italy have
been flocking
to this event
since 1980

February 17-18
World Pearl Forum
at the Atlantis Hotel,
Palm Jumeirah: A
meeting of minds in
the pearl industry
August 6-10
IIJS Show at the
NSE Complex
(Bombay Exhibition
Centre) in Goregaon:
Where Indian buyers
and sellers intersect

January 8-11
Macau Jewellery & Watch Fair at The
Cotai Strip Convention and Exhibition
Center at The Venetian Macao:
Business meets pleasure in Asias
hottest gambling destination

September 21-27
September Hong Kong
Jewellery & Watch Fair at
AsiaWorld-Expo and Hong
Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre: Asias most astute
buyers wouldnt miss this
classy gathering

February 20-23
IIJS Signature at the
Kala Academy in Panaji:
The showcase for Indias
best and brightest
November 17-21
Jewellery Arabia at
Bahrain International
Exhibition Centre: A
Mecca for Middle
Eastern buyers

Hong Kong:
March 4-8
Hong Kong International
Jewellery Show at the Hong
Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre: Pearls, watches, gems
and jewelrythis well-organized
show has them all

February 25-March 1 and
September 15-19
Bangkok Gems &
Jewelry Fair at the
Impact Exhibition &
Convention Center:
Sourcing in the worlds
prime gem and jewelry
localeit doesnt get
any easier than this

COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 07




Blue Horizons
In shades of cobalt, azure or indigo,
perennially popular blue is sure
to give any look a lift

1. Josephine turquoise alligator clutch by Jada Loveless 2. Model with earrings by

Amali and swimsuit by Gottex; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim
and Resort Wear Show 3. LaisteMoons Daughter one-of-a-kind ring in 18-karat
white gold with 9.74-carat tanzanite and two large diamonds by Ana de Costa at
Kabiri 4. Mikado Flamenco necklace with three shades of natural Persian turquoise in
18-karat white gold by Tamara Comolli 5. African Paraiba tourmaline of 25.65 carats
in platinum ring by Atelier Munsteiner 6. Mimosa earrings in white gold with
diamonds and sapphires by Damiani 7. Armchair by Adrenalina 8. Pendant in
18-karat white gold with diamonds and a 17-carat pear-shaped blue topaz by Bapalal
Keshavlal 9. Subterranean Turquoise earrings with diamonds in 22-karat granulated gold
by Zeira 10. Blossom ring with 12.75-carat tanzanite and diamonds in 18-karat gold by
Erica Courtney. 11. Opal bracelet in platinum with emerald beads and
diamonds by Cartier 12. Rock Collection Circle C hammered aquamarine
necklace in 18-karat gold by Yael Sonia 13. Rings in platinum with vivid
blue sapphires and diamonds by Picchiotti 14. Opal bag by Shana London
15. Ring with black gold, beryls, sapphires, diamonds and Australian black opal by
Lydia Courteille 16. Starfish bracelet with blue sapphires and white diamonds
by de Grisogono 17. Cushion cabochon Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline of 5.91
carats in handcrafted 18-karat yellow and white gold ring by Tamir.
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

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Cool Contrast
Nothing communicates confidence
better than the unambiguous
pairing of black and white

1. Pebble Pave necklace with moissanite stones in 18-karat white gold and solid pebbles
featuring a black rhodium finish by Moissanite 2. Crazy ring in 14-karat white gold with
13.20 carats of black diamond beads by Catherine Angiel 3. Samarcanda necklace in
white gold with diamonds and enamel by La Nouvelle Bague 4. Verde Key necklace
in sterling silver with black diamonds by Rhonda Faber Green 5. Bracelet in gold with
black and white diamonds by Davite & Delucchi 6. Parabol pendant in platinum on
coil chain by Niessing 7. Arctic Night black and white diamond studs in 14-karat gold
by Waldman Diamonds 8. Desire Love Elixir cup by Sieger by FRSTENBERG
9. Earrings in 18-karat gold with 19.28 carats of rough diamond slices and micro pav
borders by Nina Runsdorf 10. Glass vase by Giannini 11. Scarf by Gianna 12. Linfini
pendant with black and white diamonds by Cartier 13. Black and white icy diamond ring
in 18-karat gold by Hellmuth 14. Model in jewelry by Ippolita, dress by Ina Soltani and
jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show
15. Cluster earrings with 10.97 carats of black diamonds and freshwater pearls in 18-karat
gold by Jeanne Johngren Design.


Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 11




Going Green
Its easy being green when the
selection of jewels from which
to choose is this haute

1. Antea earrings in white gold with diamonds and quartz by Aprile 2. Model in jewelry by
Chiampesan for Gold Expressions and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at
the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 3. Mama non mama (Love me, love me
not) ring in pink gold with amethyst, diamonds and tsavorite by Ninetto Terzano 4. Ring
in 18-karat yellow and white gold with diamonds and oval-shaped emerald by Bapalal
Keshavlal 5. Aqua jade and diamond ring by Bochic 6. Handcrafted 18-karat yellow gold
pendant set with a pear-shaped 62.78-carat green beryl and 1 carat of diamonds by Tamir
7. Sofa by Futura 8. Model wearing spring 2009 dress by Ana Maria Macedo 9. Crystal
Haze Helix Marquise ring with green agate and diamonds in 18-karat white gold by Stephen
Webster 10. Handcrafted 18-karat white gold earrings set with oval-shaped 16.91-carat mint
green tourmalines and 1.86 carats of diamonds by Tamir 11. Green Illusion long drop earrings
in 18-karat gold with 42 carats of green onyx briolettes and diamonds by Lata K Designs
12. Quattro pendant with 3.19 carats of green tourmaline in 18-karat gold by Jeane
Johngren Design 13. Snakes necklace with green tourmalines, diamonds and citrine
madeira drop by Lena Sklyut Couture 14. Haute Couture peridot ring in 18-karat white
gold with diamonds by Roberto Coin 15. Peridot knot necklace in 18-karat yellow gold by
Kazanjian by Patrick M 16. Verdant Splendor ring in 18-karat yellow gold with 27.83
carats of tourmaline and 2.21 carats of tsavorite by Paula Crevoshay.

Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

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Pretty in Pink
and Purple
Ones sweetness complements
the others spirituality.
Together, this combo rules.

1. Jaipur earrings in gold with gemstones by Marco Bicego 2. Fly By Night cocktail ring in
white gold with amethyst and diamonds by Stephen Webster 3. Rock Collection Circle C
necklaces with amethyst and rose quartz by Yael Sonia 4. Bowl in stainless steel by Alessi
5. Rose quartz perfume flask pendant by Cartier 6. Giselle bag in lilac by Helena de
Natalio 7. On model, Rouge Amour necklace in platinum with 59 carats of rubellites and a
15-carat kunzite by Georg Spreng 8. Tie of 100 percent silk by Sieger 9. Ring in platinum
and 18-karat pink gold with 12 mm conch pearl, 3.71 carats of white diamonds and 0.99 carats
of pink diamonds by Mikimoto 10. Blueberry ring in sterling silver with amethyst by Kiara
11. Lilli rings in platinum with 4.21-carat amethyst and 3.38-carat morganite by Georg Spreng
12. Pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with 31.25-carat carved agate, moonstone, sapphire and
diamonds by Paula Crevoshay 13. Purple enamel cross in 14-karat white gold with black
diamonds by EV Jewelry Design 14. Spring Love ring in 18-karat yellow gold with pink quartz
and South Sea pearls by Lena Sklyut 15. Necklace in 24-karat gold with rose-cut pink tourmalines by Gurhan 16. Ring in pink gold with diamonds by Zydo 17. Adam & Eve handbag
in purple satin and gold by Shana London. 18. Dangle earrings in platinum with 11.51 carats
of amethyst and diamonds by Gumuchian.





COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 15






Orange Crush
From sunsets to spice,
the many shades of orange
make everything look nice
1. Earrings set with large oval rose-cut carnelian, small round rose-cut carnelian and 3 mm
rose-cut diamonds with diamond pav in 18-karat yellow gold by Irene Neuwirth 2. From
Top Amber album published by International Amber Association, objet by Marcin Zaremski
3. Earrings in 20-karat pink gold with Imperial topaz, garnets, brown diamonds and naturalcolored peach pearls by Geoffrey Good 4. From Top Amber album published by International
Amber Association, pendant by Manuel Vilhena 5. Dulce Combo mustard clutch by Helena
de Natalio 6. La Preziose ring in yellow gold set with 13.34-carat spessartite garnet,
43 brown diamonds totaling 1.12 carats and 375 yellow intense diamonds totaling 7 carats
by Suzanne Syz 7. Handcrafted platinum and 18-karat white gold earrings set with 10.38
carats of cushion-shaped mandarin garnets and diamonds by Tamir 8. Models in jewelry
by Di Modolo and Mattioli and swimsuits by Sea Queen; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager
at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 9. Eiffel Tower ring in platinum with
6.25-carat cushion-shaped mandarin garnet and 1.33 carats of diamonds by Gumuchian.


Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

16 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler




Golden Opportunity
Prized throughout history for its
symbolic and monetary value,
gold will always be a timeless luxury


1. Sacred Heart gold cuff in gold-plated metal by Perry Gargano 2. Diamond chandelier
with more than 3,300 perfectly cut diamonds totaling more than 1,000 carats by Hearts
On Fire 3. Leopard Signature ring in 18-karat gold by Daphna Simon 4. Maxi Ruedo
ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Carrera y Carrera 5. Cassandra earrings
in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Jeanne Johngren Design 6. Gripios Cross pendant in
22-karat gold with diamonds by EV Jewelry Design 7. Cleopatra necklace in 18-karat
gold with diamonds by Martha OBrien 8. Classic Granulation ring in 22-karat granulated
gold by Zeira 9. Charisma in Gold necklace in 18-karat rose gold with almost 400
brilliant-cut diamonds by Herbstrith 10. Sip of Gold cup embellished with platinum,
a diamond-patterned relief and 24-karat gold rim by Sieger 11. Autoral ring in
18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Carla Amorim 12. Revolution earrings
in 14- or 18-karat gold by J.R. de Bellard Fine Jewelry 13. Model in earrings
by Amali and swimsuit by Sea Queen; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the
Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 14. Stardust necklace in yellow
gold with diamonds by Staurino Fratelli 15. Grace Petite clutch in saffron
alligator with vermeil clasp encrusted with faceted smoky quartz and cabochon
citrine by Jada Loveless 16. Pepita necklace in yellow gold with white and
brown enamel by Fifth Season 17. Chippendale console by Arti & Mestieri.
Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

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COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 19





The Silver Standard

The vogue for this lustrous white
metal has little to do with price
and everything to do with style


1. Om Garden ring in silver with pink sapphire pav by Sonja Picard 2. Earrings in sterling
silver with 18-karat gold and diamonds by Slane & Slane 3. Superstud stacked bangles
in sterling silver by Stephen Webster 4. Maria Antonietta glass plate by Ego vetri
delle venezie 5. Pic Fleurs vase designed by Richard Hutton and silver plate by Christofle
6. Verde Flower earrings in sterling silver with 22-karat yellow gold accents by Rhonda Faber
Green 7. Boheme bracelet in silver with quartz by Calgaro 8. Croco dArgent evening bag
in sterling silver by Christofle 9. Sable bangles in silver with 24-karat gold dots by Gurhan.

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Blumer GmbH Manufacturer of fine jewellery Luisenstrae 60 75172 Pforzheim Germany

Tel.: +49(0)7231-13 83- 0 Fax: +49(0)7231-13 83-290 E-Mail: info @ blumer.de Internet: www.blumer.de






22 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler




Natural Selection
Jewels immortalizing the earths
flora and fauna honor
the ethos that green is good


1. Dragonfly cuff bracelet in 18-karat white gold with 11 carats of diamonds by Supreme
Jewelry 2. Fairy Tale Lion brooch in gold with enamel, diamonds, amber, rubies and silver by
Lobortas & Karpova 3. Brooches in gold with diamonds and emeralds by Andreoli 4. Bug
Me ring in white gold with chrysocolla, white diamonds, black sapphires and onyx by Stephen
Webster 5. Bag by Braccialini 6. Spirit Animals grasshopper pendants in carved jet and elk
antler with 18-karat gold legs, lace agate eyes and diamonds by Katey Brunini Jewels
7. Phoenix bangle in white gold with diamonds in featherlike settings and drop shapes by Boodles
8. Dragonfly pendant in 18-karat gold with demantoid garnet, chrome diopside, rainbow hematite
and pearl by Paula Crevoshay 9. Pendant-brooch with 63.16 carats of yellow tourmaline,
freshwater stick pearls, 5.40 carats of canary diamonds and 30.26 carats of cognac diamonds
by Adria de Haume 10. Diamond spider pendant in 14-karat white gold on 18-karat white
gold chain with 26 carats of white beaded sapphires by Catherine Angiel 11. Peacock feather
earrings in oxidized silver and 18-karat gold with rose-cut diamonds and ruby eyes by Lotus
Arts de Vivre 12. Ava necklace in 18-karat white gold and rose-cut diamonds by Carrera y
Carrera 13. Callas brooch in gold with Tahitian cultured pearl, orange and cognac sapphires and
diamonds by Schoeffel 14. Fly By Night Batmoth ring in white gold with diamonds by
Stephen Webster 15. Butterfly earrings in 18-karat white and black gold with 6.27
carats of diamonds and 5.62 carats of brown diamonds by Gioielleria Nardi
16. Butterfly ring in 18-karat gold with chocolate diamonds by Elyssa Bass Designs
17. Model in earrings by Uzca Jewels and swimsuit by Gottex; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager
at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 18. Flower ring in 18-karat gold with 11.46
carats of rose-cut rough diamonds and rose-cut diamonds by Nina Runsdorf.


Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 23




For Goodness Snake

Seductive as sin, these sinuous
jewels celebrate the hypnotic
allure of the snake


1. Model with jewelry by Gold Expressions and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye
Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 2. Brooch in platinum with opal,
emerald, emerald eyes and diamonds by Cartier 3. Guardian of the Myth ring with 7.62-carat
rough diamond, 15 carats of rough, white and fancy colored diamonds in white gold by
De Beers 4. Couture Stiletto in snake skin, silk and leather hand embroidered
with Tahitian and freshwater pearls by Schoeffel with Unrath & Strano 5.
Spirit Animals spider web domed ring in 18-karat yellow gold with carved elk
antler snake and diamonds by K. Brunini Jewels 6. Envelope clutch in multicolor
snake print with removable wristlet strap by Helena de Natalio 7. Signature belt buckle
in sterling silver, 18-karat gold, green tourmalines and diamonds by Lena Sklyut Couture
8. Snakes bracelet with camel leather and double snake shaped buckle handcrafted and
engraved in sterling silver by Manuel Bozzi 9. Bracelet in blackened silver with
diamonds by Kathy Rose 10. Serpentine earrings in sterling silver with spessartite,
rose-cut diamonds, rubies and 18-karat gold by Lotus Arts de Vivre.

Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

24 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler





Rainbow Coalition
If these rich color combinations
say anything, its that beauty
lies in the blend
1. Telaio choker with 54.74 carats of pear-shaped fancy colored sapphires, 2.40 carats
of diamonds and rock crystal in white gold by Fabio Salini 2. Meteorite earrings in
18-karat white gold with cognac diamonds by Roberto Coin 3. Model in bracelet
by Orlando Orlandini and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the
Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 4. Luminous multicolored sapphire bracelet
in 22-karat granulated gold with diamonds by Zeira 5. Berry Drop necklace with amethyst,
multi-color tourmalines and whiskey quartz by Lisa Cotten 6. Clash bracelet in 18-karat
white gold with white diamonds, amethyst and other semiprecious gems by Valente Milano
7. Museum Collection cuff with silver Tahitian pearls and 54.25 carats of multicolor sapphires
by Tara & Sons 8. Tortoise ring in yellow gold with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, onyx and
Australian black opal by Lydia Courteille 9. Button clutch by Hubris & Homefries.

Fashion photo 2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA

26 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler




When the economy behaves as tempestuously as it has
>> Victoria Gomelsky

id you notice the return this past summer of the floor-sweeping

maxi dress and the omnipresent pitter-patter of all those pancake
flats? Whatever you may think of the hemline effect or its
modern corollary, the heel hypothesis the notion that as the economy
declines, hemlines get longer and shoes get shorter, and vice versa
theres no arguing that fashion and the financial system are inextricably,
if inexplicably, linked.
In retrospect, some might see the combination of lengthy frocks and
sensible shoes as sartorial harbingers of fiscal crises to come (cue the
Lehman Brothers collapse and subsequent meltdown); others as the
accidental convergence of two cyclical markets. But regardless of your
leaning, try for a moment to indulge the former point of view, the one that
draws a straight line between stock shares and silhouettes. Then answer
this question: What are we to make of the bold, avant-garde heels clomping
down streets this past fall?
Like postcards from outer space, the freakish, embellished shoes of the
moment allude to something unprecedented. Its a fitting metaphor for the
global marketplace. Not even during the Great Depression did we see a
financial crisis of such scale, owing largely to the fact that mortgages,
credit cards and interconnected, indeed, interdependent, markets werent
around 70 years ago to wreak havoc like they are and do today.
The upshot is obvious: Most consumers dont have the financial
wherewithal to fully indulge their collective penchant for fresh fashion.
The good news? They continue to sate their desire with accessories,
which are key to capturing the seasons quintessential look.
Notice how outlandish the shoes are, says Jason Campbell, editor in
chief of the JC Report, a biweekly e-newsletter of fashions comings and
goings. You can have the same jacket and throw on an unbelievable
scarf or pair of shoes and make it stand out. Theyre the focal point of
the look, which is detracting attention from last seasons dress.
Call it recession style or depression fashion. When you cant splurge
on the whole outfit, you treat yourself in less expensive yet equally
dramatic ways. In the run-up to 2009, for example, that means jaunty

High drama, low budget This page: Costume jewelry, like this bold geometric necklace
from Lanvins fall 2008 runway show, has earned high marks this season because it can
afford to go big. In the fine jewelry sphere, some designers, like Rhonda Faber Green, are
opting for sterling silver. Her diamond-accented Verde bangles start at $580 retail. Opposite
page: Miu Mius space-age heels seem to subvert the heel hypothesis of the economy.
Other budget-conscious designers have chosen palladium, as in this Barry Kronen pendant.
Jessica Simpson wearing coral and onyx earrings by Bochic.

28 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

on style
this year, the fashion market is sure to feel the pinch

scarves, chunky and colorful platforms and, last but not least, statement
jewelry, the more outr, the more alchemical and interesting, Campbell
says, the better.

Costume party
Given the soaring costs of precious metals and stones, however, style
comes at a hefty price. That explains why costume, or fashion, jewelry is
playing a more significant role now than during any season in recent
memory. Its a straightforward equation: Take X number of ounces of
gold and multiply them by the current gold price (as of early November,
down to $725 per ounce, but still quite volatile).
The costly result makes clear that in order to support all those trendy
layered chains, draped like armor in homage to Run DMC, Mr. T and other
icons of 80s ghetto style, only faux will do. The most successful of these
costume efforts are strange and odd-looking, but they tell a very compelling
story, Campbell says, citing Lanvins Alber Elbaz and Balenciagas
Nicolas Ghesquiere for their really brilliant and really odd creations.
For fall 08, Ghesquiere opted for a sinewy blend of faux stones,
strass and pearls that have a vintage appeal, according to the blog The
Luxe Chronicles, adding that the delicateness of the pieces was an
unexpected but appealing complement to the austerity of [his] fashions.
Elbaz, lauded for engineering a costume jewelry comeback on par with
the resplendent designs of Chanel and Dior circa 1950, went in a
different direction. By layering his models with bold, geometric necklaces
big enough to look like breastplates for the high priests of fashion,
Elbazs 80s fixation came through loud and clear. No era has a greater
resonance for him, as evidenced by his prodigious use of grosgrain
ribbons and tapes of fabric, adding a sense of geometry without
screaming 1980s architecture, wrote Suzy Menkes, fashion columnist
for the International Herald Tribune.

1980s nostalgia
The Lanvin designer isnt alone in his passion for jewelry harking back to
a decade that has spawned more than its fair share of nostalgia. The
twosome behind New Yorks Bylu (pronounced Blue), Ken Leung and
Dana Chin, spent their summer decorating handcuff-style bangles, twofinger rings and multiple-chain necklaces with vivid splashes of cold enamel
in order to create their 145.60 (onefortyfivesixty) collection of brass jewelry.
Inspired by the raw expression of the hip hop and graffiti movements

COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 29


taking place in NYC during the 80s, the collections name is

a clever reference to the section of the New York State penal
code that makes the act of graffiti a Class A misdemeanor.
Having already launched two fine jewelry collections, Bylu,
Leung says, was ready to expand and diversify.
Our core philosophy is about making more confident and
bold jewelry, he says. With precious metals, its just not
possible to do that, so we started playing around with brass.
To Leung and Chins surprise, the pieces have struck a
chord with fine jewelry buyers. At the recent D&A show, a
boutique fashion event held at the Chelsea Art Museum,
Bylu made inroads with a store in upstate New York that
carries an upscale mix of fine jewelers, from Anthony Nak
to Cathy Waterman.
145.60 offers another price point, an impulse purchase,
Leung says.

Arm candy
Bylus collection has something else to recommend it: Its
stacked with bangles and cuff bracelets, the styles most in
vogue thanks to the way they lend themselves to being
piled on and mixed together in a spirited blend of materials,
not the least of which is sterling silver in a trendy blackened
finish, the fashionistas fallback to 18-karat gold.
The person who wants to buy and wear five to 10 bangles
doesnt want to go crazy, says Los Angeles-based Rhonda
Faber Green, whose two-year-old Verde collection of
engraved, finely detailed sterling silver bangles is designed
for women who like the look of excess yet shun the corresponding price tag.
To wit: A 5-millimeter sterling silver fleur de lis bangle from
the Verde collection retails for $690, while the corresponding
bangle in 22-karat gold sells for nearly five times that
amount: $3,150.
Some retailers buy both the silver and gold and have
them all in one case, says Green, whose competition in the

30 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

high-end silver category includes designers as diverse as

Stephen Webster, Gurhan and Emily Armenta. Some buy
just the sterling silver, and some buy just the gold. But a few
who said they would never want the sterling silver are now
really excited about it.

Metal mania
Its not rocket science. The metals market has seen its most
active year since the investment bubble of the early 1980s
so active, in fact, that graphs of gold and platinum prices in
2008 look like the heart rate monitor of a very unstable
patient. Platinum, for one, surpassed the $2,000 mark in
February before scaling down, up and back down again. As of
early November, it rested uneasily around $820, a mere trifle
more than gold, which is, in and of itself, a bizarre scenario.
With currency markets behaving just as erratically, the
jewelry industry has shown a newfound zeal for alternative
metals. One apparent beneficiary is palladium, a member of
the platinum group now being touted as the metal for the
21st century because of its white cast, rarity and relatively
inexpensive price: Since the beginning of the year, palladium
has dropped dramatically to around $200 per ounce.
Another new entrant to the metals market is Karat Platinum
in New York, which has pioneered an innovative 14-karat
platinum alloy that combines a 41.5 percent cobalt-copper
blend with 58.5 percent platinum.
Its got a wonderful color, a luxury feel, strength and durability, and its hitting a price point directly between 14-karat
gold and platinum 950, said Michael Ottaway, director of
merchandising (before, that is, metal prices went haywire).
Although the companys hopes are pinned on the bridal
market, its range includes a wide selection of fashion jewelry,
The price is right Bangles from Bylus 145.60 collection of brass jewelry
have struck a chord with fine jewelry buyers, in part because of their low price.
Karat Platinums vintage-style diamond drop earrings and diamond and blue
sapphire bangle bracelet are made from a unique 14-karat platinum alloy.


including tennis bracelets, chandelier earrings and bangle

bracelets, some studded with gemstones.
Karat Platinums top selling item on Amazon, however, is
a plain, plain, plain, 2-millimeter wide, never-take-it-off hoop
earring for $139 retail, Ottoway says.

The luxe factor

But if its true that one segment of the jewelry market is
keen to try affordable, everyday platinum, up until this fall it
was equally true that another segment of buyers, the ultraluxury set didnt care one iota about affordability, for these
are billionaires who may have lost some money in the credit
crunch but probably not enough to make a dent.
Indeed, luxury consumers spent most of the year helping
the surprisingly resilient high-end market
to defy all expectations. They wielded
their considerable purchasing power at
the auction houses, where colored
diamonds, large colorless rocks and
signed contemporary jewels fetched
record-breaking prices.
Today, $100,000 per carat for a 10carat diamond is normal, said Rahul
Kadakia, senior vice president of Christies
Americas, at a September conference.
What changed the market? Forbes
estimated more than 1,000 billionaires for the first time. Their
money has spread across the
world. The dollar was down, and
large rocks had great sparkle
for investors worrying about
For a while, it seemed that one
of the only markets to transcend
the economic crisis was Indias,
and though the truth of that
assessment remains to be
seen, it helps explain why
jewelry evoking its exotic
heritage is gaining acceptance around the world.
Not since Cartier and other
European luxury houses made
a name for themselves crafting
extraordinary parures for the
maharajahs during the 1920s
and 30s has ber-expensive,
Indian-inspired jewelry been so

32 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

popular. For decades, the look was simply too ethnic to play
on the postwar, postindustrial, postmodern fashion stage.
Suddenly, inspired by Indias star turn on the global scene,
jewelry connoisseurs are again citing the countrys 5,000year-old design heritage, newly co-opted by a rising cohort
of luxury jewelers besotted with traditional Indian craftsmanship and locally sourced precious stones. Chief among
them are Mumbais Viren Bhagat, Jaipurs Gem Palace and
two Hollywood red-carpet favorites, Amrapali and Bochic.

Investor confidence
Looking ahead to 2009, theres no denying that the economic
outlook is fraught with uncertainty, with forecasters such as
Gerald Celente, founder of the Trends Research Institute,
warning of an impending economic 9/11 (he describes
the sub-prime mortgage problem as merely a crack at the
bottom of the foundation). But the idea that jewelry is a
sound purchase continues to build.
The whole market has declined sharply overall, but jewelry
is holding on better than others because it really does have
intrinsic value, says Pam Danziger, founder of Unity Marketing,
a boutique market research firm based in Stevens, Pa.
Jewelry is perceived as a better place to indulge your money
than handbags or clothing.
Plenty of retailers can testify to that phenomenon. Paul
Schneider, co-owner of Twist, a Portland, Ore., jewelry
boutique known as a bellwether for trends, says that
after more than 20 years in the fine jewelry business, he and his wife/business partner had their
best Christmas last year, just as the recession
began to build, and that his high-end business
continues to boom, with customers embracing
22-karat gold, rose-cut diamonds, organic
shapes and anything that boasts a green
or eco-sustainable tie-in.
Youve got to be cautious about
panicking about the economy, Schneider
says. Weve developed a quality core
customer base and a great position in
the marketplace, and we dont want to
abandon that. Our wealthiest customers are
buying the highest-end pieces, and they still need
us. It would be a shame if we werent ready for them.
Lets not let our fears dictate what we buy and what
our customers want.
Hurray for Bollywood Kate Beckinsale at the 15th Annual
Women of Hollywood event wears yellow rose-cut diamond earrings
by Amrapali, an Indian brand favored by celebrities, who have taken
a shine to ornate yellow gold bangles and chandelier earrings.

is ENLIGHTENEDTM - Swarovski Elements influential global trend and design

service, aimed at inspiring gem creativity in the fine jewellery market.
Working with leading experts, Gem Visions compiles exclusive, in-depth
research into socio-cultural megatrends, and into fashion, jewellery
and design directions, setting gemstones within the context of the fastchanging world around them.



is the year to celebrate the art of the jewel. Individual and intensely personal, the jewel is
now regarded and appreciated as a true work of art. Emotion underlines all Gem Visions
directions for 2009 showing fine jewellery as the embodiment of feelings, passion, love, loyalty, celebration
and self-expression. In the new mood of emotional luxury, every jewel has a soul. Gem Visions research has
identified four main trends for 2009, encompassing the most significant design directions influencing and
shaping the fine jewellery world.


TTF Studio
Roberto Coin


The sensual minimalist mood continues to evolve as the organic influence takes a more scientific
approach, shaped by a fascination with bio-technologies as well as by a move towards a more
radical modernism. Lightness and transparency is key, along with a relaxed sensuality, and a
renewed focus on the inner life of gems, the natural imperfections and inclusions that give each
gem its own unique personality.


This theme reinforces the strong architectural element in design, drawing inspiration, graphic and luminous, from our contemporary urban environment. The complex neo-constructivist theme is based on the
principle and effects of light diffraction, giving us an explosion of prismatic light, line and colour, radiant
and dynamic, relating to fashions feeling for energetic, multi-coloured graphic prints.

Roberto Marroni

Wang Qian & Zhang Shaoifei


HyperNature is directly inspired by the profound universal preoccupation with the natural world and the
survival of the planet. This is reminiscent of Art Nouveau at the turn of the 20th century, as it communicated a new, world-weary, poetic view of nature, inspired at the time by Japanese art. It is pro-active and
powerful, sculptural and stylised, and will generate a quest for new iconic products as modern messengers
of this tribute to nature.

Tiret NY

Farah Khan

Daniel Swarovski

Gordon C. & Company


This theme reflects the growing need for escapism and fantasy, for retrenching into our
own private worlds. It is intensely personal, rich in cultural heritage, and layered with
traditions, references and fragments of the past. Fusing fabric and gems, this takes
vintage in a subtle new direction, heading towards mystical enchantment, with a strong
thread of romance, providing a change of pace from the rising impact of new technology.
These jewels tell a story, sometimes dark and demonic, underlined with deep meaning
and imbued with age-old magic and spirituality.



Carrera y Carrera


Eight easy pieces

Presenting our cheat sheet for springs must-have fashion trends



Slightly provocative but mostly

just teasing, designers used
transparent fabrics again and
again on the runway. Sheer
panels were often placed in
just the right places beware
of wardrobe malfunctions.
Forget tight silhouettes, this
look is all about easy, relaxed

Finally, a way to escape the

figure-hugging skinny jean.
Wide-leg pants of all shapes
and sizes have made their
comeback. Some styles
evoked a 1970s sophistication, while others went to the
Middle East for inspiration as
harem pants stole the show.
Droopy drawers never looked
so chic.


Max Azria


In the

Instead of talking about

what jewels will go with
this seasons trends, jewels
are this seasons trend.
Oversized statement pieces
were everywhere, and more
jewelers are creating special
collections at the behest of
fashion designers. Necklaces will be the must-have
accessory, the bigger the

Ultra-feminine and glamorous,

this look is far more silk robe
than sexy lingerie. Rich silks
and lace lined the runways as
models channeled their softer
sides, and even dresses took
on a slouchy, dressing gownstyle vibe.


42 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler


All photos provided by WireImage. Photographers, from left to right: Thomas Concordia, Randy Brooke, JP Yim, Randy Brooke

>> Randi Molofsky

actually be in the best interests of the end

consumer. Rather than featuring outlandish
costumes, most collections will easily translate
to real life, making springs hottest looks
easy to shop.



Forget Little House on the

Prairie, these ruffles are
organic in shape and current
in style. Instead of accents
on the edges of skirts and
shirts, these three-dimensional
pieces of fabric are part of
the garments, seeming to
sprout from the clothes in
artistic configurations.

While bright pops of color

will always be on tap for
springtime, many collections were strangely devoid
of a candy-colored palette.
Instead, models wore fleshtoned ensembles, often
from head to toe. Luckily,
this leaves plenty of room
for bold jewels to pop on a
muted background.



Tie me up,
Tie me down

LWD (Little
White Dress)

Designers were determined

to keep their models on lockdown by any means necessary.
Strips of fabric were pulled
tight around dresses and
blouses, making bondage a
consistent theme for spring
09. Not for the conservative,
this look screams sexy and

After this season, the little

black dress will be all but
forgotten. Designers ditched
the dark side for clean,
contemporary shifts and
sheaths in bright white,
reminding us that this noncolor isnt just for summer.

3.1 Phillip


COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 43

All photos provided by WireImage. Photographers, from left to right: Randy Brooke, Thomas Concordia, Randy Brooke, JP Yim

any called the September

2008 Mercedes-Benz New
York Fashion Week lackluster.
While it might have been boring
for catwalk critics, a toned-down runway may



Your store, your sanctuary

World-renowned decorator Clodagh champions deluxe, eco-conscious style
>> Randi Molofsky
he list of one-name wonders in this world is tiny
think Prince, Madonna or Bono. If you happen to follow
interior design, chances are you can add Clodagh to
that list. Irish by birth but New York-based, her accomplishments are impressive even to the layperson: Over the past
25 years, she has been named one of the Worlds 100
Leading Interior Designers by Architectural Digest, has been
inducted into Interior Designs Hall of Fame, wrote a popular
coffee table book, titled Total Design, and has created interiors
for luxury hotels, spas and even Robert Redford.
Her sun-drenched full-floor showroom in downtown
Manhattan is filled with archives of furniture and art, but
organized in such a way that the effect is calming. I believe
in silent design, Clodagh explains. There shouldnt be a lot of
visual clutter going on. This fascination with serenity began
when she was introduced to the practices of Feng Shui in

46 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

1985, and shes worked with master Sarah Rossbach ever

since to eliminate harmful energy from her spaces. Today,
Clodaghs focus is largely on eco-design and partnering with
companies that practice fair trade and fair employment.
Clodagh is now celebrating a quarter century in the world
of interiors, but her professional career began in fashion.
After a horseback riding injury left her in bed with a broken
back for nearly a year, she answered an ad in the Irish
Times looking for dress designers. Her talent matched her
ambitiousness, and so, at age 17, she began work under
her own name. I worked with very architectural fabrics, and
I was always very conscious of how clothes made people
look, she says. Theres also a balance between what
someone is wearing and how they look in a room. This, she
notes, is important for jewelers to realize. If a woman looks
cool and detached, put her in red jewelry, she explains.

Her newest book, Your Home, Your Sanctuary, was released

by Rizzoli in October. A virtual how-to for decorating room
by room, the large-format book is filled with images and tips
for making your time at home as peaceful as possible,
including a call to use the five senses in all aspects of
design. I particularly love to work with water, Clodagh says.
Since the body is 70 percent water, it makes logical sense
to incorporate it into our surroundings. Her showroom
proves this principle: A stone coffee table is cut down the
center with a small river and smooth stones; it sits near floor
lights surrounded by bubbling water.
Luckily, Clodgahs principles of home can and should be
applied to the workspace, especially a luxury jewelry store. Its
truly all about comfort, she says. Jewelry is a heavy investment, and when youre selling, youre really in the hospitality
business. The entryway to your store should be of the highest
importance, and something that reflects a shift from street
to showroom. Clodaghs mantra of no clutter, no chatter
should be especially important in this transitional space.
Comfort is also expressed in the details. Clodagh suggests
making sure your customers have a place to sit and rest
their handbags, and lighting that flatters. Uplights should be
balanced with downlights, she says. And, most importantly,
a customer should never have to look down into a mirror; it
immediately adds 20 years to your face.
Other details include small luxuries like fresh flowers and
refreshments but not reheated coffee or tea in a paper
cup. Invest in a machine that makes individual cups of
fresh-brewed coffee or espresso, and offer it in glassware
or china that represents the feel of your store. Present it on
a beautiful tray. Your customers will feel pampered.
Perhaps more than anything, Clodagh believes that charity
will lead to prosperity. One of her pet projects, Clodagh
Cares, benefits the Thorn Tree Project in Northern Kenya.
Hand-beaded accessories made by Kenyan locals are
available through her Web site, and all proceeds go to
construction and maintenance of the Thorn Tree School.
She is also committed to using local artisans in her
projects around the world. We are very community orientated when we open a spa or hotel, we always invite local
artists to contribute to the design, and then invite them to
meet the community. Its a wonderful way to use cooperation
to create something beautiful.
Deck the walls Opposite page: The Landmarc Restaurant at the Time
Warner Center in New York City features private dining booths and metal
chandeliers by Jessica Bodner. This page, top to bottom: Wood, steel and
LED lights are all art of the decor at Landmarc. A pied-a-terre in Manhattan
uses a decorative metal Sun Form sconce by Merja Winqvist. A private
residence overlooking Central Park combines an accent wall of combed
metallic-finished papier mache, a Padao-wood bed and a Liceo hanging
lamp from Santa & Cole with a crushed bronze wire mesh shade.

COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 47

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COUTURE International Jeweler:

What will impact our color choices in
2009? Leslie Harrington: One
of the topics we had discussions around was the whole
organic movement. Weve seen
a resurgence of gardening, and the
consequence of that is we started seeing
more vegetable-dyed colors, which will be
something consumers will be looking for, like beets or saffron or ginger.
A lot of that harkens back to olden times, when we used to use
vegetable dyes to dye fabric.
CIJ: What other color trends do you see for next year? LH: Overall, we
see a very strong warming of the palette into reds and oranges. Purple
is quite strong, and blue is a constant. In womens fashion we see a
lightening of the color palette lots of blues and greens and watery
mid-tones. Another color emerging is teal. We consistently talk about the
rebirth of coral, an evolution of orange.

It happened
For Leslie Harrington, one of the
worlds leading color forecasters,
next year is already old news
wice a year, Leslie Harrington Ph.D,
executive director of the New Yorkbased Color Association, gathers her
advisory board, comprised of retailers, manufacturers, interior designers and consultants,
to talk about the future. Specifically, the group
ponders what the world will look like 24
months down the line. They began talking
about the environment seven years ago,
and guess what? theyre still talking about
it, though the issue has evolved to include a
greater focus on gardening, the soon-to-befelt impact of skyrocketing food prices and,
of course, the darkening economy. She spoke
to us shortly before the Fall/Winter 20102011 forecasting meeting, which, given the
uncertainties in the marketplace, promised
to be livelier than usual.

52 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

CIJ: Has any color become pass? LH: Were not seeing deep chocolate brown. Its not so much that its pass, but its evolved to a more
mid-tone, like a cigar-brown, a tobacco-brown or a chestnut brown.
CIJ: Whats with all this lightening? LH: Sometimes colors dont change,
but we see an overall lightening of the palette or a change in contrasts.
For example, in the 90s we saw sea foam green and peach paired
together when that warm/cool combination was in. But today we see
more warm/warm and cool/cool contrasts, like blues and greens
together, or oranges, yellows and reds. We talk about the world flattening,
becoming much more global, so cultural influence is becoming more
significant in our world, and those color palettes tend to be warm/warm
combinations that remind us of southern latitudes, or Mexico.
CIJ: And China and India? LH: Absolutely. In 2008, we had two color
palettes, the Far East and Indian Markets, both much bolder and richer and
more intense. When we started to talk about China, we knew the Olympics
were coming in and wed see a lot of national pride a big ball of cultural
experience that was coming and would influence people, if on an unconscious level. You cant help but love those opulent reds and yellows.
CIJ: So whats brewing for 2010? LH: We just did 2010, and in November
well be doing Fall/Winter 2010-2011. I can hardly wait to see what everybody brings to the table. I know the economy will be at the forefront. By
fall 10-11, are things going to be better? And if not, how will consumers be
feeling? Will they be looking to buy color? Well be meeting post-election,
so well talk about what the impact of the next president will be. Well talk
Indian idol The Kali Ma pendant from EV Jewelry Design, in 18-karat yellow gold with
diamonds and Burmese and Brazilian rubies in marquise, round and pear shapes, reflects
the vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry, as well as the reds and yellows that go with it.

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about the evolution of past influences, and

new ones on the horizon.
CIJ: Are all colors destined to come back?
LH: All colors are cyclical, but not all run in
the same cycle pattern. Hot pink will cycle
faster say, a year. Dark brown will last
longer, maybe four to five years, because
its got longevity, more uses and can be
combined easier.
CIJ: Since youre gauging the future, what
issues do you see that consumers might not?
LH: Theres tremendous inflationary pressure
on food, and that will eventually become one
of the greatest issues, when a sack of flour
goes from $10 to $40 or a slice of pizza that
used to be $1.50 is now $3. The staples are
increasing: flour, rice, cheese. Were not 100
percent sure how it will go will it have an
impact? What does it mean? We want to eat
healthy, but when it becomes cost-prohibitive,
what do we do? Pasta used to be considered
a value meal you could feed a family of four
on it. But people in the restaurant business
say margins are gone with the cost of flour
going up. And it becomes almost a luxury.
CIJ: Are your forecasts always right? LH:
Some people accuse forecasters of being the
color mafia. They say we put out yellow and
now I have to buy yellow because thats all
thats available. But consumers are the ones
who ultimately decide what to buy. As it
becomes more expected and gains traction,
yellow becomes the color until it reaches a
point of saturation and nobody wants it anymore.
We look to infuse newness in the market.
Consumers want something different they
just dont always know what it is.
CIJ: Finally, I cant help but ask, do you have
a favorite color? LH: I have been on the
orange bandwagon for a while. Im reluctant
to get on the purple bandwagon, and I used
to love red but have dropped off that bandwagon. So its interesting to see how things
change. Id say the biggest direction for me
is wearing lighter colors. Im trying not to
wear black all the time.

54 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

Passion for fashion

Mary Gehlhar offers solace for aspiring recessionistas
s vice president of brand strategy at Gen Art, a national organization that promotes new talent in film, fashion, visual arts and
music, Mary Gehlhar, author of The Fashion Designer Survival
Guide, knows all too well the trials and tribulations facing emerging
designers, especially now, as the economy flirts with disaster. Jewelers
who offer innovative styles at accessible price points are in a good position to ride out the storm, she says, because 2009 is shaping up to be
the Year of the Accessory. As if to prove her point, she says that at a
recent series of Gen Art-sponsored shopping nights featuring clothing
and accessories from numerous designers, jewelry was the easiest sell.
Here she gives us her feedback on the spring 2009 runway shows and
tells us which trends promise to stick.

COUTURE International Jeweler: How would you describe the

mood in the fashion industry at the moment? Mary Gehlhar: People
are obviously nervous, especially when it comes to investing in new
designers. But they also feel its an opportunity for the best of the best
to shine. Theres optimism about the opportunities that are out there.
Stores are cutting back, but when theyre buying theyre looking for

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tel. (32)(3) 233 91 60 - Fax (32) (3) 225 12 81
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tel. (32)(3) 233 91 60 - Fax (32) (3) 225 12 81
e-mail: alpilex@pandora.be



something really exciting. Shoppers already have the basics, but when
they do buy theyre looking for that one really interesting item to add
flair to their outfit.
CIJ: What trends do you expect to dominate 2009? MG: Spring 09
is a great time to talk about jewelry, because in some ways it outshone
the clothing. Really big, tons of color and tons of it everywhere. All the
stacking and layering, so much texture and chunkiness. The downturn is
definitely not coming through as minimalism. The color and cheerfulness
is great. While people cut back on clothing, they may spend a little
more on accessories to freshen up what they already own. Theyll be
able to update something they already own with 20 coral necklaces.
CIJ: Its almost as if designers are refusing to surrender to all the
economic doom and gloom. MG: Yeah, because everything is big and
everything is plentiful and thats true for all accessories: belts, shoes, bags.
CIJ: Which of the spring collections stood out? MG: Marc Jacobs
collection was amazing: the color, silhouettes, the layering. It was so
fun and beautiful and optimistic. It was a top 10 for just about
everybody. I thought Rodarte was beautiful and truly
visionary. And Philip Lim. He is so relevant. His clothes
are easy to wear and have a price point that is understandable. I thought Lanvin was crazy beautiful. And
on the runway, Zac Posens use of jewelry was
really on trend: geometric, stacking, black and
white, which is the other side of all this color.
CIJ: Are any of these fashion designers using
precious materials? MG: Now that I think about
it, everything Ive talked about has been costume
jewelry because of its scale.
CIJ: Right. It would be difficult to pull off that kind
of volume in 18-karat gold. It makes me wonder
how fine jewelers are supposed to promote luxury
when the economy is so fragile. MG: You talk about
collectibles, about heirlooms, about things to pass
down. Emerging designers still hope theres a market
in Asia. Two weeks ago, I would have said Russia was
still a place to sell, but that isnt the case today.
CIJ: So whats your gut feeling about the new year?
MG: I think its going to be bad, but there is an opportunity for innovation. Theres a lot of stuff out there, and I
think the cream will rise to the top. If your stuff is fresh and innovative,
there will be enough of a market to get you through.
Super-size Oversize statement necklaces, like Rhonda Faber Greens Verde five-strand
number in sterling silver with black diamonds, are trending big for 2009.

56 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

Content king
Piers Fawkes, CEO and founder
of PSFK, traffics in the global
currency of good ideas
n an economy that values knowledge as
both a product and a tool, having access
to bright ideas determines who has the
edge. Piers Fawkes, CEO and founder of PSFK,
a New York-based trend consultancy that counts
Apple and Target among its clientele, knows
that better than most. His flagship Web site,
PSFK.com, is nothing so much as a compendium
of the quirkiest, most inventive and avantgarde ideas circulating in popular, business
and consumer culture. Not for nothing does it
receive up to half a million visitors a month.
Shortly after returning from Singapore, where
PSFK staged its sixth global conference in
October, Fawkes talked to us about some of
the best brainstorms to emerge from this troubled year, including a few abstract thoughts on
luxury that may surprise you.


COUTURE International Jeweler: Whats your take on the downturn in the economy? Piers Fawkes: Were trying to be positive.
Were getting ready to release a good ideas report. We normally do
a trends issue around this time, but what would we say? This sucks,
that sucks. Were trying to stimulate the bounce.
CIJ: Of the things youve covered in the past year, what has caught
your attention? PF: Weve been looking at something called analog
love. I wouldnt call it a technology backlash but a nostalgic reinterpretation of products. We see this with a revival of notebooks. Muji
just came out with something called the Chronotebook, which is a
day-planner organized on an analog axis, like a clock. Even in technology, were seeing a celebration of analog. The iPhone has an
application that turns your phone into something that looks like an
old-fashioned clock. Weve seen wind-up toys rather than ones you
have to stick a battery in, and a move away from plastic thats been
going on for a while. I wouldnt call it a backlash to technology but a
nostalgic appreciation of the past.
CIJ: Have any retail or luxury trends intrigued you? PF: Well, weve
been thinking about more abstract things that are luxurious. For
example, the idea of light as a luxury. Many of us work in cramped
offices, so light becomes a luxury. In retail, you see that with large
windows and so forth, to provide this light. Another idea is clarity, minimalism and the clearing of clutter. Were seeing a backlash against

outdoor advertising the idea that its a luxury

to have a clean environment. Also, the growth
of secret societies, not so much because
people want to be exclusive but because you
want to get away from things with like-minded
people. You see this with secret restaurants,
secret bars, restaurants that arent in restaurants but are in someones house.
CIJ: You were just in Singapore. Hows the
credit crisis being perceived in Asia? PF: There
was the sense that this was a Western issue
and not a problem for Asia. Theres still a
feeling of opportunity, and theres still ground
to make up over there. There didnt seem to be
a lot of pessimism. Obviously, the Singapore
market got hammered as well, but places like
that have a sheer drive to succeed. Its a planned
economy designed to be a safe harbor for
business. Digital technology has leveled the
playing field, as has the rise of the creative
class and the creator class. These people can
be fashion designers one day and graphic
artists or even retailers the next. This class of
artists and creatives is now emerging. We
think of London, New York and Los Angeles
as creative hubs, but soon we might be looking
to Asia for ideas.

Asian invasion The skyline of Singapores central business district, where a rising
creative class is poised to take the next decade, if not the century, by storm.

58 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

CIJ: Finally, amid all this talk of recession

and depression, do you think well start seeing
a backlash to luxury? PF: Different people
will buy for different reasons. I think the
brands we choose will, theoretically, have
meaning and a story. We pay more for things
with story, and I think thats what people are
looking to buy. The fact is that so many
brands have no real heritage or theyve lost
their heritage, and thats going to change our
perception of luxury.

Image courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board

CIJ: And Dubai? PF: I dont see that as much.

There has to be an element of culture and
history to a hub. Singapore is only 43 years
old but has a tremendous amount of history,
whereas some city-states dont have that. Its
got far more of that than a place that was built
up on the edge of the sea somewhere. The
creative class, the creator class, has to come
from the ground up.


Made in India
Foreigners eye the Indian market while the
locals promote their jewels to the world
o virtually every adult with access to a newspaper or television, it
should come as no surprise that the credit crunch has taken its toll
on the jewelry industry. Special mention, however, should be made
of India, whose domestic jewelry market is growing at such a pace that
even in the face of global recession, it looks poised to weather the chaos.
The platform from which a good portion of domestic business is done is
the India International Jewelry Show, organized by the quasi-governmental
Gem and Jewelry Export Promotion Council. The fair takes place every
year during the first half of August in the NSE exhibition complex in north
Mumbai, a venue not without its share of logistical problems (a propensity
to flood during monsoon season, for example).
This years edition, though lighter than expected on business (due, of
course, to the darkening economy), saw heavy traffic thanks to the councils
strategic courting of foreign exhibitors.
A first-time pavilion of Israeli diamantaires reflected Israels eagerness
to get a piece of the action.
The Indian consumer market shows tremendous potential, said Moti
Ganz, chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute. Indians traditionally have
designed, created and consumed diamond and gem-studded jewelry. We
are very excited to participate in this show and look forward to creating
mutually beneficial business ties with the Indian diamond industry.
While the local market continues to attract foreigners, a parallel effort
is under way at the council to actively promote Indian-made jewelry to
overseas buyers. The first target is the Middle East, with show organizers
going so far as to suggest an IIJS sister show may one day open in
Dubai or Sharjah, two of the United Arab Emirates.
While the U.S. market lingers in uncertainty, the Indians also hope to
penetrate new territories, including Russia, Iran and Pakistan, said
Sanjay Kothari, the outgoing chairman of the GJEPC.
We have had a lot of Pakistani jewelers come to the show in the last
four years, he said. Hopefully by 2009 we will be able to make inroads.
The organizers of IIJS are also on a mission to elevate the reputation
of Indian-made jewels. The vehicle for this campaign is the IIJS Signature
Goa show, scheduled to run in the seaside resort Feb. 20-23.
By limiting the show to 150 to 200 high-end exhibitors, the organizers,
Kothari said, hope to show the world that India is capable of making
jewelry on par with the Italians.

So sari The India International Jewelry Show is held near a concentration of Bollywood
studios. That might explain why the fair stages elaborate fashion shows starring a plethora
of leading ladies dressed in lavish, bejeweled saris. The 2008 edition included 24 companies
from Israel, whose diamantaires are eyeing the fast-growing domestic market.

62 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

Diamonds love Antwerp

Visit the Antwerp Diamond Pavilions Worldwide:

Macau Vicenza Hong Kong

Basel Istanbul Shanghai Las Vegas
Mumbai Dubai


Where furniture meets art

Photo courtesy of Rove Gallery

Photo by visitlondonimages/britainonview


n mid-October, just as the stock market was crashing

(again), the whos who of the contemporary art world
converged on London to attend the mammoth Frieze
fair. In their haste to discover new art from brand name and
emerging talents, its possible they overlooked a smaller
event, DesignArt London, running concurrently with the Frieze.
As a showcase for vintage and contemporary furniture and
decorative arts, the five-day fair, staged in Berkeley Square,
in the heart of Mayfair, featured designs that were by turns
elegant and avant-garde, and went a long way in promoting
the notion that design is as inherently collectible as fine art.
Some 40 international exhibitors participated, including
prestigious gallerists like David Gill in London, Galerie
Downtown in Paris and Contrasts Gallery in Shanghai. The
mood was subdued and the attendance less than stellar,
but the design, in all its regal, provocative and space-age
splendor, didnt disappoint.
Paul Insects glass Skelli table, at the Rove Gallery booth,
was among the exhibitions more fascinating, if grotesque,
pieces. Balanced on a bronze skeleton
wearing Playboy bunny ears, it sold to
a Russian collector for 50,000
pounds, according to Bloomberg.
Most offerings were considerably
less pointed. At the Carpenters
Workshop Gallery, Wendell Castles

64 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

graceful Abilene rocking

chair in stainless steel
flowed as naturally as water,
while his Seneca hall table in fiberglass and gold leaf
seemed to herald the next Gilded Age.
Aficionados of modernist Danish design flocked to Dansk
Mobelkunst, whose collection of functional furniture epitomized that nations much-admired aesthetic. And fans of the
design sensibility to emerge from the Cold War practical
yet simultaneously poetic furniture, such as Eero Saarinens
cocoon-like Womb Chair were delighted by the abundance
of slick, rounded designs evoking 2001: A Space Odyssey.
In a lovely coincidence, Cold War Modern, a major exhibition at the nearby Victoria and Albert Museum, had just
opened, making clear that todays design stars owe much
to the futuristic inventions born of the tense rivalry between
the United States and the Soviet Union: soaring television
towers and space-trawling satellites, to be sure, but also
streamlined looks and sensible products.
Rounding out the fairs selection of objects was the Louisa
Guinness Gallerys jewelry collection, including a beguiling
enamel necklace from Man Ray. Perhaps more than any
other object at the fair, it affirmed that true artists are able to
distill the essence of modernity using any form of media.
Divine design Paul Insects Skelli table and Wendell Castles Abilene chair
and Seneca hall table were among the works shown at DesignArt London.

Furniture photos courtesy of Barry Friedman Ltd., New York and Carpenters Workshop Gallery

The second annual DesignArt London fair touts

the concept of collectible furniture and objets



The World Watch and Jewellery Show
Where Business begins and Trends are created
Discovering innovations, pinpointing trends and
forging valuable personal contacts BASELWORLD
offers the ideal platform for all of these. The biggest
and most important event globally in the watch and
jewellery industry is being held from March 26 to April 2,
2009 in Basel, Switzerland.
The key players of the global watch and jewellery industry
meet up once a year at BASELWORLD. Decision makers
and eminent figures from the exhibitor companies, as well as
buyers and the media appreciate the unique business atmosphere that prevails at the World Watch and Jewellery Show.
Over a total of eight days, more than 2000 companies
from the watch, jewellery, precious-stone and related
sectors present their new products and the innovations of
the year. Occupying a surface area of 160000 m2 in
multi-storey stands in some cases our exhibitors present
impressive brand worlds at the topmost level, showcasing
the full range of their know-how and their enormous
creativity at BASELWORLD.
Attracting more than 100000 visitors, BASELWORLD
constitutes the biggest networking platform in the sector.
It provides an opportunity to foster existing relationships
and to forge new, personal contacts. Buyers from all over
the world come here to gain an overview of everything that
is on offer in the watch and jewellery industry.
The preparations for BASELWORLD 2009 are in full
swing. Alongside the customary extensive range of prod66 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

ucts, the sophisticated infrastructure and the professional

services provided, there will also be a number of innovations awaiting our visitors.
Come and experience the unique atmosphere that prevails
at this globally leading event. We extend a warm invitation
to you to enjoy the exceptional ambiance at BASELWORLD
and to combine the fascinating world of watches and
jewellery with business success.

The World Watch and Jewellery Show
Opening hours:
Statistics 2008:

Thursday, March 26 to
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Exhibition Center Basel
Daily 9 am to 6 pm
From 9 am to 4 pm on the last day
1 day pass CHF 60.00
8 day pass CHF 150.00
MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
Number of visitors: 106'800
Number of exhibitors: 2'087
Accredited journalists: 2'981
Gross floor space: 160'000 m2
Net floor space: 116'100 m2

MARCH 26 APRIL 2, 2009




Asian Gallery


Prinn Collection - Anemone Ring

Center Tahitian blue pearl with blue, yellow & purple sapphires,
diamonds, on white gold 18K

ONG Jewelry Design - Thai Elephant bangle

Diamonds & sapphires on pink gold



Mother Russia
The former Soviet Union is a fertile
breeding ground for new jewelry talent
Nearly two decades into the great capitalist experiment, Russia
and its former republics are a bastion perhaps the last
bastion of unbridled spending, plunging oil prices and
sinking stock markets be damned. It makes perfect
sense, then, that on the international scene,
Russian jewelers are finally having their moment.
From the rebirth of the Faberge brand under
new management (scheduled for spring 2009)
to the emergence of a new class of designers
whose jewels draw on traditionally Russian themes
and techniques skilled enamel work and expert
stone-setting, chief among them the Russian
jewelry diaspora is more active than ever.
In Los Angeles, M&L Jewelry, founded by
brothers Michael and Leon Landver, originally from
Kiev, has manufactured a collection of cocktail
rings that re-create the cupolas of Red Square
and the pillows once used by czarinas to rest
their royal feet. Designed by Armenian expat
Jirayr Gyurjyan, the dramatic semiprecious
stones that make up the collection picture
jawbreaker-sized spheres of faceted quartz
and topaz set atop wide 18-karat gold shanks
suggest that the Russian aesthetic is elegant
but also a little barbarian, says Michael Landver.

70 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

Brooklyn-based designer Lena Sklyut, who

emigrated from Belarus 16 years ago, would
probably agree. Her Julia cuff features a smoky
topaz of nearly 500 carats, and conveys in both
scale and symbolism an unmistakable sense of
power. Its fitting that her signature motif is
a snake, an animal she describes as
elegant, wise and flexible like all the
good parts of a woman.
Equally enticing are the romantic
avant-garde jewels of Kiev-based
Lobortas & Karpova, founded 17 years ago
by the husband-and-wife team of Igor Lobortas
and Irina Karpova. The companys collection of
one-of-a-kind rings, brooches, necklaces and
earrings celebrate Ukrainian culture, as well as
the ancient Greek and Byzantine traditions that
preceded it.
Some pieces incorporate religious icons, like
medieval crosses or Stars of David, while others
have been designed as objets dart. A point of
pride for Lobortas & Karpova is that all the jewels
are handmade, including the enamel series, which
takes its inspiration from the enameled
eggs designed by Peter Carl Faberge, the
legendary jeweler to the czars.
We have spent many years trying
to find our own secrets and jewelry
techniques, states the company Web
site, because our main goal is to
create things that can be compared with
high-class works by Faberge, Cartier,
Shlumberger and other jewelry gurus of
the past.
Although the faltering economy may slow
Russian jewelers efforts to go global, appealing
to domestic consumers may be the most viable
option, given the Russian predisposition to luxury.
These people want the best of the best, says
Dr. Clotaire Rapaille, a cultural anthropologist
currently studying what he terms the Russian
code. They have no notion of the future, so
they dont have to save. Theres a notion
of spending a lot of money to prove
youre alive.
Post-Soviet style Since the Soviet Unions collapse,
Russian-speaking jewelers from its former republics
have proven that skilled artisanry didnt die with it.
From top, the Couture Emerald Skin necklace by Lena
Sklyut; Tree Cross brooch with diamonds and enamel
by Kiev-based Lobortas & Karpova; cocktail rings by M&L
Jewelry in Los Angeles; and the Kindest Kind of Dragon ring
by Lobortas & Karpova featuring a 44.9-carat amethyst.



la Joyera,

Platera, Relojera
e I n d u s t r i a s A fi n e s
Intern ation al Jeweller y,
Silverware, Watch
and Auxiliar y Industries




902 22 15 15

(34) 91 722 57 92


Feria de Madrid
28042 Madrid
Espaa / Spain





Faux sure
Costume jewelry has once again come into its
own, wrote The New York Times in a 1938 article
lauding Chanels flamboyant, iridescent necklaces. That faux jewels were a hit during the Great
Depression may explain why 70 years later, as
we enter our own perfect storm of financial crises,
the fashion world is renewing its appreciation for
costume jewels. Vera Wang, Lanvin and Balenciaga
were among the labels that emphasized dramatic
accessories on the runways during the latest
round of fashion shows. Rather than streamlining looks to reflect a pared-down sensibility,
designers are piling things on, using layers of
necklaces, stacks of bangles and voluminous
metallics to deflect attention from the economy
and its effect on our collective mood. Just look to
the exuberant creations of Daniel Weinberger,
a designer who collaborated with Anne
Demeulemeester on both of her spring 2009
catwalk shows. From brass to strass, the faux
materials he uses approximate the look of fine
jewelry only insofar as both are eye-catching.
Alas, when volume is in vogue, as it is today, the
former becomes all the more appealing.
Fine fakes From top, Yves Saint Laurent cuff in anthracite
metal, earrings in gold tone metal with turquoise, crystal and
strass, and cuff in gold tone metal with coral and glass. At
bottom, a theatrical costume design from Daniel Weinberger,
sold by Londons Kabiri.
72 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler


Bangkoks best
Known among Thai high society for its bold, organic
jewelry, Lotus Arts de Vivre introduces a line of
furniture and objets dart sure to enthrall collectors
Where can you find a single seven-meter piece of mahogany? asks
Rolf von Bueren, chairman of Lotus Arts de Vivre, a family-run jewelry
company in Bangkok, as he points to a 23-foot-long mahogany root
sculpture carved in the likeness of a fierce, mythical eagle. Where?
he repeats.
Indonesia, as it turns out. Whats more, the massive mahogany bird,
perched on a base of black granite, looks powerful enough to have flown
here itself here being the courtyard of the Lotus Arts de Vivre workshop,
located on the outskirts of Bangkok near the southern loop of the Chao
Phraya River. Its arrived just in time for the occasion of its grand unveiling:
a mid-September open house marking the launch of the companys first
major collection of furniture, tableware and large-scale objets dart.
That the $605,090 eagle, with its oxidized silver claws,
engraved silver beak and resplendent silver tail feathers,
required 17 people working continuously for 14 months to
produce is just one indication of how seriously Lotus Arts de
Vivre takes its mandate. The firm, beloved by collectors the
world over, produces a range of Asian-inspired jewels, handbags and
lifestyle accessories that celebrate the raw and organic beauty of Mother
Nature, while simultaneously adhering to standards of such fine craftsmanship that theyve earned a reputation as the Cartier of Asia.
Everything we do starts with the raw materials, Rolf says, as he leads
a group of visitors into a room laden with stacks of stingray skins, bins
of nautilus shells and other organic materials sourced from the region.
We sit on huge stocks and have a fingerprint system to track inventory.
The fun is in the production; selling is actually a bore.
But sell they do to connoisseurs and captains of industry, heads of
state and royalty at stand-alone boutiques located in some of the finest
hotels in the world. Chief among them are Raffles in Singapore, the
Oriental Hotel in Bangkok and the Setai in Miami, not to mention a scattering of select retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman in New York and
Cindy Griem Fine Jewels in Aspen, Colo.
The von Buerens, a close-knit foursome composed of Rolf, his wife,
Helen, and their sons, Sri and Nicki, have invited interior
designers, property developers and longtime friends of the
company to the weekend-long open house, in an initial
attempt to attract interest in the interiors category.
Weve always been asked to help decorate houses, so
weve always done household items, says Rolf as he walks
Animal farm Using a single workshop stocked with an inventory of precious and exotic
materials and a team of skilled craftspeople, Lotus Arts de Vivre is able to create an
impressive array of objects. Jewelry, such as the carved emerald and pearl bead necklace
shown above, came first, followed in recent months by a menagerie of animals, including
this 7-meter-long mahogany eagle and fearsome crocodile. The crocs body is made of
iron wood, while its skull once belonged to a real beast, sourced and carved in Indonesia.

74 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

a visitor through a veritable garden of silvery crocodiles featuring real-life skulls carved by Indonesian
artisans. Theyre easier to sell than jewelry; theyre
easier to understand.
Although Lotus Arts de Vivre had its beginnings in jewelry 25 years ago, when Helen
began designing pieces for friends after Sri
and Nicki went away to boarding school, the von
Buerens have parlayed their significant expertise in
using traditional Thai techniques into creating hundreds
of large-scale objects, ranging from fantasy furniture
covered in fine layers of gold leaf to diamond-encrusted walking
sticks shaped like birds heads, their ruby eyes glistening in the tropical sun.
What lends the diverse assortment a startling degree of artistic unity is the
attention to detail that imbues even the most fantastical octopus carving or
fearsome dragons head with a sense of authenticity. A five-headed snake,
for example, carved from dark brown iron wood, has a split tongue, fangs
and coils made of oxidized silver, like a mutant reptile thats been dipped
in a metallic bath and preserved for science.
In this way, Lotus Arts de Vivre takes its inspiration from the rich
tradition of Thai folk art nurtured by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, whose
Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and
Related Techniques, or SUPPORT Foundation, teaches villagers
uniquely Thai versions of techniques like silverware, embroidery,
basketry and damascene so that they may always live on in Thai culture.
The products of her royal patronage, on display at the Arts of the
Kingdom exhibition currently being held at Bangkoks Dusit Palace,
include an elaborate diamond-studded pavilion throne that required 285
artisans one year to complete and a wood-carved screen that tells the
Legend of Bejaratana, a tale of deities and celestial beings in audience
with Lord Shiva, querying him on the origin of the nine auspicious gems.
We are only a shadow of what she does, Rolf says.
The king and queen of Thailand dont, of course, have to contend with
budgets. From a business perspective, Lotus Arts de Vivres decision to
extend the brand into furniture and interiors is both a creative and financial
logical next step.
Post 9/11, people didnt want to travel and started buying more for their
homes. We focused in on two collections jewelry and home dcor and
this is the evolution of that, says Nicki von Bueren, glancing at the vast
array of objects that have emerged from the workshop in record time.
The next, next step, of course, is global expansion. Rolf says Lotus Arts
de Vivre is on the brink of finalizing franchise agreements with partners in
Dubai, India and Russia. He hopes to ink a maximum of six to eight such
deals in the near future. Were looking for people with a passion for the
business, people who have buying power, self-confidence and taste, Rolf
says. The focus is on markets where minimalism is not the accepted
norm. Youve got to afford to be exuberant in life.
Home improvement Lotus Arts de Vivres open house marked the companys first effort
to attract interior designers and hoteliers. These elephant candle holders made of liana
wood, fantasy dining table covered in fine gold leaf, iron wood boar featuring a genuine skull,
and seed pearl earrings were among the hundreds of objects on display. Chairman Rolf
von Bueren hopes the expanding collection will lure like-minded franchise partners to the
brand, to help bring its elegant, Asian-inspired vision to emerging markets in the future.

COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 75


The middle passage

Hazoorilal strikes a balance between tradition and modernity in Delhis southern suburbs
ndias vast army of retail jewelers can broadly be divided
into two loose categories: those who adhere to tradition
by selling primarily 22-karat gold wedding jewelry, and
those best described as progressive because they offer
diamond- and gem-studded jewels inspired by both Indian
and Western aesthetics.
Its not as subtle a distinction as it may seem. The former
tend to be small, family-run affairs with little capacity for
marketing and advertising yet strong word-of-mouth reputations within their respective communities, while the latter are
larger operations with a varied jewelry selection, international
sourcing relationships and a commitment to marketing,
merchandising and education. In short, Indias progressive
jewelers dont eschew tradition so much as reinterpret it.
Hazoorilal, a family-owned company with a flagship
boutique in New Delhis upscale Greater Kailash neighborhood, is unquestionably among the latter. Founded nearly
60 years ago in south Delhi by patriarch Hazoorilal Narang,
the company has since expanded to include two additional
stores in Delhi as well as a fourth location in the Gurgaon
Gold Souk.
With its well-edited selection of pearl and diamond sets
in discreet white gold as well as dramatic and characteristically Indian parures employing rose-cut diamonds,
22-karat gold and polki and kundan techniques, Hazoorilal
has positioned itself as the choice for modern Indian
jewelry consumers who like to strike the balance between
past and present.
Our vision is to be the leading diamond specialty store in

76 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

the country, says Managing Director Ramesh Narang, who,

together with his brother, Sandeep Narang, handles the
day-to-day demands of the business. Theres an intimacy
well always have the edge with. Our strength is our closeness and like-mindedness with the consumer.
This is no small feat. Nearly every major luxury goods
provider has its sights set on the affluent Indian consumer.
As the Louis Vuittons and Cartiers of the world struggle
to find the right positioning in a market with a deeply
entrenched jewelry mindset, Hazoorilal capitalizes on its
home team advantage.
During Indian festival periods such as Holi, Akshay-Tritya
and Diwali, the flagship boutiques window dressing reflects
the companys lavish yet elegant design philosophy. Inside,
a color palette of ivory and warm, earthen hues complements the Italian Traventino marble. The ubiquitous H
logo, found on brass tags placed throughout the showroom,
not to mention all advertisements, packaging materials and
even the cutlery, trays and glasses served to waiting clients,
is Hazoorilals company seal of guarantee, like Tiffanys
iconic blue.
An elegant collection of designs with a wide choice for
customers, is how one customer, Mrs. Labroo from Noida,
recently put it.
We couldnt have said it better ourselves.
The changelings Delhis Hazoorilal has embraced a progressive approach
to business by stocking contemporary diamond-set pieces such as these
rings by Bapalal Keshavlal, a trusted supplier. At the same time, the model
in this stylish company ad promotes ornate Indian jewelry.


Adler, 24
AGTA, 36, 42
Alpilex, 61
Andreoli, 32, 39
Armenta, 63
Arunashi, 62
Asprey, 12, 22
Aurostyle, 41
Autore, 62
AWDC, 72-73
Balenciaga, 72
Bangkok Fair, 69
Bapalal Keshavlal, 9, 12, 76
Barry Kronen, 29
BaselWorld Fair, 66-67
BCBG Max Azria, 42
Blumer, 21
Bochic, 12, 29
Boodles, 22
Braccialini, 22
Breuning, 25
Busch, 73
Bylu, 29, 30
Calgaro, 20
Calvin Klein, 43
Carla Amorim, 19
Carrera y Carrera, CI, 18, 23
Cartier, 9, 11, 24
Catherine Angiel, 10, 22
Christian Bauer, 40-41
Christies, 32
Christophle, 20
Clodagh, 46-47
Damiani, 8
Daniel Weinberger, 72
Daphna Simon, 18
Davite & Delucchi, 10
De Beers, 24
De Grisogono, 9
Derek Lam, 42
E, F
Eero Saarinen, 64
Ego vetri delle venezie, 20
Elyssa Bass Designs, 23
Erica Courtney, 9
Eurostar, 50-51
EV Jewelry Design, 15,
18, 52
Faberge, 70
Fabio Salini, 26
Futura, 12
G, H, I
Gem Palace, 32

Geoffrey Good, 16
Georg Spreng, 14, 15
GIA, 59
Gianna, 11
Giannini, 11
Gioielleria Nardi, 23
GlamRock, 27
Gumuchian, 15, 16
Gurhan, 15, 20
Hearts On Fire, 18
Helena de Natalio, 14, 16, 24
Hellmuth, 11
Herbstrith, 19
HKTDC Fair, 65
Hubris and Homefries, 26
Iberjoya Fair, 71
IDI, 48-49
Intercolor USA, 60-61
Irene Neuwirth, 16
J, K, L
J.R. de Bellard Fine
Jewelry, 19
JA NY Fair, 77
Jada Loveless, 8, 19
Jeanne Johngren Design,
11, 13, 18
K. Brunini Jewels, 22, 24
Kabiri, 8, 72
Karat Platinum, 30, 32
Kathy Rose, 24
Kazanjian by Patrick M, 13
Kiara, 14
Kompass Diamond, 57
Kwiat, 78
La Nouvelle Bague, 10
Lanvin, 28, 72
Lata K Designs, 13
Lena Sklyut Couture, 13,
15, 24, 70
Lisa Cotten, 26
Lobortas & Karpova, 22, 70
Lotus Arts de Vivre, 22,
24, 74-75
Lydia Courteille, 9, 26
M, N
M&L Jewelry, 70
Man Ray, 64
Manuel Bozzi, 24
Manuel Vilhena, 16
Marc Jacobs, 42, 58
Marcin Zaremski, 16
Marco Bicego, 14
Martha OBrien, 18
Mikimoto, 14
Miu Miu, 29
Moissanite, 10
Narciso Rodriguez, 43

Niessing, 10
Nina Runsdorf, 11, 23
Ninetto Terzano, 12
O, P
ONG Jewelry Design, 68
Oroarezzo Fair, CIII
Palmiero, CIV
Paul Insect, 64
Paula Crevoshay, 13, 15, 22
Perry Gargano, 18
Phillip Lim, 43, 58
Picchiotti, 5, 9
Podicko, 17
Prinn Collection, 68
Rafinity, 10
Recarlo, 31
Richard Wise, 38
Rio Tinto, 74
Robert Wan, 18
Roberto Coin, 22, 32, 44, 68
Ronald Abram, 24
Rosy Blue, 45, 57
Schoeffel, 23, 24
Shana London, 9, 15
Sieger, 10, 14, 19
Slane & Slane, 20
Sonja Picard, 20
Staurino Fratelli, 19
Stephen Webster, 13, 14,
20, 22, 23
Style LA Swim and Resort
Wear Show, 8, 11-12, 16,
19, 23-24, 26
Supreme Jewelry, 22
Suzanne Syz, 16
Swarovski, 34-39
T, U
Tamara Comolli, 8
Tamir, 9, 12, 13, 16
Tanzanite Foundation, 60-61
Tara & Sons, 26
The Fifth Season, 3, 19
Twist, 32
Unicorn, 33
V, W, Y, Z
Valente Milano, 26, 44-45
Vera Wang, 42, 72
Viren Bhagat, 32
Waldman Diamonds, 10
Wendell Castle, 64
Yael Sonia, 9, 14
Yves Saint Laurent, 72
Zac Posen, 58
Zeira, 9, 19, 26
Zydo, 15

For All that

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Jacob K. Javits Center
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Guiding light
The new Kwiat flagship boutique translates the feel of its diamond jewelry into a retail setting
or a jewelry firm like Kwiat, its all about sparkle.
Diamonds have been the Kwiat familys stock in trade
since 1908, so when the idea of opening a flagship
boutique on Manhattans Madison Avenue presented itself
two years ago, there was no question as to what mattered
most in the design scheme.
Diamonds are all about light, about the way they make light
dance, says Greg Kwiat, chief financial officer. We wanted a
wall treatment that had a similar optical effect. The silver leaf
wall coverings play with the light. In general, you want the color
scheme to be light, because you dont want the surrounding
environment to darken up the store and the stones.
The 800-square-foot boutique the company chose opened
in September with a launch event hosted by Academy
Award winner Jennifer Hudson. It is a warm, inviting space
decked out in a color palette of grays, creams and light
blues. The champagne-colored walls, featuring a textured
pattern of cut horizontal lines, do precisely what Kwiat
intended: They scatter light throughout the salon, whose most
striking feature is a grand atrium with soaring, 18-foot ceilings.
The interior design details, including dramatic sconces,
accessories covered in gray shagreen and tiny pin-dots on the
glass case borders, which invite customers to take a closer
look, lend the space a modern Deco charm. It goes without
saying that the Kwiat jewelry collection, a love letter to timeless, elegant design, contributes much to the overall vibe.
The Kwiat aesthetic is classic, Kwiat says. We wanted
the environment to feel comfortable, much like we want our
jewelry to feel wearable, and for the space to feel warm,
modern and contemporary.

78 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

The company hired the firm Barteluce Architects &

Associates to translate those feelings into interior design
terms. At the entrance, visitors pass beneath a low canopy
into a room featuring two facing rows of custom-built
displays, each outfitted with satin nickel, framing glass
counters and smoky blue wood supporting the bases. In the
back, near the bridal and vintage jewelry showcases, a large
white marble staircase curls up, toward a cozy gallery on
the mezzanine floor, where a desk festooned with white
orchids and a bar outfitted with antique barware greet VIPs
and celebrity guests.
The third-generation diamond jeweler had intended the
New York flagship boutique to be its first store, but its salon
in The Palazzo in Las Vegas opened ahead of schedule.
The two locations represent Kwiats first foray into retail;
instead of eyeing more stand-alone boutiques, the company
hopes to create shop-in-shops with a select group of retail
partners in the coming year.
We feel good despite the economy, Kwiat says. Obviously,
its a difficult time in general. Weve been through difficult
periods before, but they all eventually turned around and
became periods of economic prosperity. My grandfather
and great grandfather, when the Depression came, they not
only survived but did well by focusing on their core business.
With humility, we hope to have the same success.
Dream team Academy Award winner Jennifer Hudson presided over the
September opening party at the Kwiat flagship boutique. The 100-year-old
diamond jewelry brand worked with Barteluce Architects & Associates to
create an interior scheme that complemented the jewelry. We wanted the
environment to feel comfortable, much like we want our jewelry to feel
wearable, Greg Kwiat says.

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CIJ: How so? CR: Take, for example, airports. New York
Kennedy, Atlanta? Terrible. Dubai? The new Hong Kong airport?
Fantastic. How am I going to judge New Yorks airport? Ill
compare it to Dubai and the Emirates airline. People are still
selling business class without flat beds. Forget it.
CIJ: What about luxury centers in established markets? CR:
Where do you want to open a store? In New York, where
youre not going to make a profit and youll pay a lot of taxes?
Or in Dubai, where theres no tax and growth is about 20 to
30 percent? What is the rationale for not going there?

Go east, young brand

Brands will soon measure their success based on
the reaction they get in Dubai, says Dr. Rapaille
In September, the grand old dame of American department
stores, Bloomingdales, announced that in 2010 it will open its
first overseas location in you guessed it Dubai, in a luxe
mall housing not one but two of the retailers stores: a threelevel clothing emporium and a single-level home goods store,
comprising about 200,000 square feet. One person not
surprised to hear the news was Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille, a
French-born former child psychiatrist-turned-corporate
consultant who has cultivated an interesting theory about the
Middle Eastern metropolis. He believes the new model for
global financial success revolves around city-states such as
Dubai, Singapore and Macau. He calls these places hubs and
the people who flock to them hubbers. We spoke to him
about the implications for luxury marketers around the world.
COUTURE International Jeweler: Whats the Hub theory
all about? Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille: Theres something
happening in the world, a completely new model for economic
and financial success. Its not about New York, London or
Paris. Its about a group I call the Hubbers. They are
French, Russian, American. They belong to a tribe
of people who know the best, and they define the
best. They define what is a seven-star hotel the
only one is in Dubai, and one night costs $1,600.
I am trying to understand these people. It is not a
market in itself but more than that. They decide
the reference system for everyone else.
80 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler

CIJ: But is that kind of growth sustainable? CR: Dubai is only

making 4 percent of its growth through oil. But they have an
incredible vision, and they are succeeding. They have the only
seven-star hotel, Harvard Medical School is coming, the Louvre.
Its not a democracy. Sheikh Maktoum is considered the CEO of
a corporation, and you dont ask people to vote on healthcare. In
the Western world, we still have to deal with unions. In America,
everybody wants universal healthcare, but how do you do it?
Raise taxes and then people leave. They go to Dubai [Laughs].
CIJ: What happens to Europe in this model? CR: Europe
invented the city-state. Until the beginning of the 19th century,
Venice was known worldwide. They had the best ships. They
were free and open-minded. We lost it, and now Venice is
awful. Its full of drunken British and German tourists, and
there are no more Venetians. They dont protect what they
have. The new model is Hong Kong and Singapore. All the
Swiss banks moved to Singapore. Why? No taxes. Whereas
Switzerland is under pressure from the rest of Europe.
CIJ: What makes you think these hubs can beat Europe at its
own game? CR: Because theyre attracting the best of the
best. Macau does more business than Las Vegas and Atlantic
City combined. Its a kind of luxury people dont understand.
I was talking to a client with a store in a hotel in Macau, and
one night a guy arrived and said, Ill buy the whole store. We
have to change our reference system.
CIJ: So what should luxury marketers do? CR: The first thing
is to understand the city-state model and where the
concentration of money is going to be. Were not looking
at it as a market but as a place where trends are going
to be decided. Of course you want to be there. You can
see what works and make a lot of money, because
you understand the way the world is going. Its like
a periscope to a higher world.
Eastern promises Dubais Burj Al Arab is the worlds only
(self-anointed) seven-star hotel. Dr. Clotaire Rapaille cites it
as one example of the city-states increasing prominence
among global trendsetters.