Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
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Berlin
October - November 2016
Germany: Memories
of a Nation
Botanical delights
inyourpocket.com
N83 - 1.75
Contents
Transport
Basics
Gerhard Richter, Betty (Edition 23/25), 1991, Offsetdruck auf Karton, 97,1 x 66,2 cm
Sammlung Olbricht Atelier Gerhard Richter
Sports in Berlin
Berlin Mitte
20
32
SYMBOL KEY
U Facilities for the disabled
E Live music
N No credit cards
B Outside seating
G Non-smoking room
S Take away
R Internet
www.gropiusbau.de
Berlin Kreuzberg
City Tours
57
L Guarded parking
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
City map
Public transport map
Index
48
44
P Air conditioning
41
V Home delivery
#ErinnerungenEinerNation
#MemoriesOfaNation
Berlin Friedrichshain
T Child friendly
W Wi-Fi
Wednesday to Monday 10 AM 7 PM
closed Tuesdays
Open on public holidays
closed on 24/12 und 31/12
60
61-63
64-65
66
BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide youll find boxes with
more information about these topics:
Erasmus Student Network
West Berlin Revival
6
37
Foreword
Transport
Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG0079.11.
Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner
Cover visitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien
COVER STORY
ABOUT IYP
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlins
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; youll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone 2,70, ABC 3,30)
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-FahrtenKarte, 9). Buy a 1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if
you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six
stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get
the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning;
7,00) or the seven-day pass (30,00). Groups of up to five
people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day
ticket, 17,30). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (19,5042,00) is valid for transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket youll
be fined 60 on the spot.
BVG
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at http://
www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.
de, www.bvg.de/en.
TAXIS
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same
day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is 3,40; then up
to 7km its 1,79/km, thereafter 1,28/km. Waiting costs 25/
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
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CYCLING
As long as its dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
by bicycle. Its a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
may take a while, though for 1,60 you can take your bike
on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
places, most charging 10-12 per day. The urban bike
trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and
cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
CITY CARDS
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
to travel around town a lot and see more than one
museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
and youths may get better reductions at museums
using their student ID cards.
BERLIN WELCOMECARD
The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB 19,50, ABC 21,50), 72 hours (27,50/29,50),
and 4 (31,50/34,50), 5 (35,50/40,50) or 6 days
(41,50/45,50). Theres also a 72-hour variety (42/44)
that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel
museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket
machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks.
The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com)
is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts
geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs
17,50 for AB, 19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours,
4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
50 museums, including the permanent collections of
the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
with the Berlin Museum Pass (24/12, valid three days).
Its for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
October - November 2016
Basics
Berlin Districts
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.
ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
6 Berlin In Your Pocket
MONEY
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and 1 and 2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.
30
80
25
70
60
20
50
15
40
10
30
5
0
20
Jan
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov Dec
-5
10
0
Rainfall (mm)
MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. Its on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery
to sidewalk caf, pointing out directions to tourists seeking
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass
deportations of the Nazi era.
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB)
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufrstendamm,
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) and the setting
becomes more genteel where you cant see the buildings for
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.
TIERGARTEN (TG)
CLIMATE
Rainfall (mm)
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlins local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only really palatable mit Schuss, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (kloob mah-tea) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American mat plant, caffeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Temperature C
Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, youre still
left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners
often find everything they need. Public transportation is
far-reaching and effective though, and youll grow to love it
as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights:
Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.
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KREUZBERG (KB)
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies,
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off
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FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
Zehlendorf (ZD).
October - November 2016
Sports in Berlin
Sports in Berlin
www.union-foto-hupe.de
BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
Berlins professional volleyball
team originates in the western
district of Charlottenburg,
but plays home matches at
the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR
Volleys have been particularly successful since the late
1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title five times.
The unbeatable team won everything they could last
season and look set to play some stellar volleyball
again this autumn.
16 Oct, 15:30: VFB Friedrichshafen
27 Oct, 19:30: United Volleys ReihnMain
30 Oct, 16:00: SVG Lneburg
13 Nov, 16:00:TSG Solinger Volleys
27 Nov, 16:00: SWD Dren
2 Nov, 19:00: UC Olympia 93 (at Sportforum Berlin)
QOlympischer
Platz
3
(Olympiastadion),
Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805
18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets 15-89.
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October - November 2016
EVENT TICKETS
SAMMLUNG BOROS
A former bunker holds the private art gallery of
advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who
live on top of the absurd structure. Its full of wonderful
contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and
a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly filling up a
room. Tours only, book well in advance.
QReinhardstrae 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65,
www.sammlung-boros.de.
SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlins roaring 20s.
Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private
box so that he could watch his favourite operetta The
Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here
from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays,
concerts and musicals.QF3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets 21-79.
BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
The Berlin Residence Orchestra consists of well-known
musicians, who interpret baroque and classic opera with a
keen sense of the compositions from that era. The result
is an extraordinary concert event, with musical highlights
presented true to the original style and aristocratic sound.
Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle, and a dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB3,
Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
tel. +49 30 25 810 350, www.residenzkonzerte.berlin.
Dinner 18:00, concert 20:00. Tickets 29-127.
BLUE MAN GROUP
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and
musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little
spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped,
with many new sketches and elements.QE4, Marlene
Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00;
Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from 69.
11
DAS LICHTERERLEBNIS IM
BOTANISCHEN
GARTEN BERLIN
MIT GROSSER
EISBAHN!
GARDEN BERLIN
MIT DER DMMERUNG BEGINNT DIE
MAGISCHE REISE
VON DEN
PRODUZENTEN
VON CHRISTMAS
AT KEW IN
LONDON!
17.11.16 01.01.17
BOTANISCHER GARTEN BERLIN
Tickets unter
01806 - 777 111*, an den Kassen des Botanischen
Gartens Berlin sowie an den bek. VVK-Stellen. Infos unter www.christmas-garden.de
*(0,20/Anruf aus dem dt. Festnetz / max. 0,60/Anruf aus dem dt. Mobilfunknetz)
CHRISTMAS
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THEATRE: SCHAUBHNE
Set inside a quirky former
1920s cinema, the politically and socially engaged
repertoire of this venerable
ensemble theatre ranges
from classics to contempo
Gianmarco Bresadola
rary plays. Famed directors
like Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and Katie Mitchell
give actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina Hoss the chance to
shine. Every month, several shows have English or French
surtitles. Theres a good theatre caf with drinks and meals
too. Upcoming performances with English surtitles are:
1 Oct: Hedda Gabler
4 Oct, 5,12 Nov: Richard III
8 Oct: Hamlet
10 Oct: The Invention of the Red Army Faction
15,16 Oct: Beware of Pity
18 Oct: Trust
28,29,30 Oct, 3 Nov: Fear
30 Oct: A Piece of Plastic
1 Nov: Never Forever
20 Nov: An Enemy of the People
24 Nov: Tartuffe
27 Nov: The Marriage of Maria Braun
October - November 2016
13
24 Oct, 20:00
Anneleen Lenaerts (harp), Dionysis Grammenos
(clarinet)
Works by Schumann, Schubert, Faur, Massenet, Smetana,
Bizet
PH
26-28 Oct, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Christiane Karg
(soprano)
Conductor: Ivn Fischer; Works by Enescu, Bartk and
Mozart
PH
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU:
GERMANY - MEMORIES OF
A NATION
600 years of German history in 200 objects, beginning
and ending in Wall-year 1989. Perhaps only the British
can come up with such a simple and effective concept,
and indeed the exhibition The British View: Germany
- Memories of a Nation was a huge success when it
opened in Londons British Museum, accompanied
by the amazing book and podcasts by initiator Neil
MacGregor.
The objects illustrating the momories of the newly unified
Germany tell stories of great German achievements
from a British perspective, of printing and porcelain, of
philosophers, poets and artists, and of historical events
that have shaped the face of Germany today, including
that most terrible memory of all, the Holocaust. Ernst
Barlachs impressive 1926 floating bronze sculpture is
an amazing WW1 memorial, the recreated Buchenwald
concentration camp gate symbolises Germanys darkest
years while Georg Baselitzs 1977 Eagle etching reflects
on the fragility of ideals.
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FILM FESTIVALS
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
17 Oct, 20:00
Vyacheslav Gryaznov (piano)
Works by Beethoven, Debussy, Ravel, Prokofjew and
Rachmaninow
PH
22 Oct, 20:00
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Noah BendixBalgley (violine)
Conductor: Stanley Dodds; Works by Mozart, Tschaikowsky
and Dvorak
PH
DEUTSCHE OPER
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstr. 7,
Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, S/U Potsdamer Platz,
www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Tues closed.
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15
DIE MULTIMEDIA-AUSSTELLUNG
THE MULTIMEDIA EXHIBITION
Rabatt*
9 Nov, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Yefim
Bronfman (piano)
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Bartk and
Beethoven
PH
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10 Nov, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Yefim
Bronfman (piano)
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Hindemith and
Beethoven
PH
11 Nov, 20:00
Jiaxin Tian (piano)
Works by Mozart, Schumann, Zhao, Mendelssohn Bartholdy
and Liszt
PH
13 Nov, 16:00
Berliner Symphoniker, Shiran Wang (piano)
Conductor: Bernhard Steiner; Works by Schubert,
Schumann and Beethoven
PH
14 Nov, 20:00
Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France,
Hilary Hahn (violin)
Conductor: Mikko Franck; Works by Ravel, Bruch and
Tschaikowsky
PH
15 Nov, 20:00
Robert Leonardy (piano)
Works by Couperin, Ravel, Mendelssohn Bartholdy, Chopin,
Brahms and Beethoven
PH
17 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Kammerorchester Berlin, Rinnat
Moriah (soprano)
Conductor: Elias Grandy; Works by Schnittke, Britten, Ligeti
and Dvorak
PH
18 Nov, 20:00
London Philharmonic Orchestra, Anne-Sophie
Mutter (violin)
Conductor: Robin Ticciati; Works by Schumann,
Mendelssohn Bartholdy and Bruckner
PH
19 & 20 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Condcutor: Sir Roger Norrington; Works by Mozart, Williams
and Beethoven
PH
19 Nov, 20:00
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Grzegorz Nowak; Works by Beethoven, Grieg,
Albinoni, Mozart, Hummel, Spohr and Dvorak
PH
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October - November 2016
17
CHRISTMAS GARDEN
CHRISTMAS
GARDEN BERLIN
WINTERGARTEN: RELAX
22 Nov, 20:00
Venice Baroque Orchestra, Giuliano Carmignola
(violin)
Works by Vivaldi
PH
24 Nov, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Anna
Vinnitskaya (piano)
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Strauss and
Rachmaninow
PH
25 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, JeanYves Thibaudet (piano)
Conductor: Hannu Lintu; Works by Debussy, Chen,
Gershwin and Bartk
PH
27 Nov, 20:00
Freiburger Barockorchester
Conductor: Ren Jacobs; Works by Mozart and Haydn
PH
29 Nov, 20:00
Marc-Andr Hamelin (piano)
Works by Haydn, Feinberg, Beethoven, Skrjabin and Chopin
PH
CONCERTS
Klaus Schein
12 Oct, 20:00
Red Fang (Rock)
HX
19 Oct, 21:00
Dua Lipa (Pop/Soul)
HN
20 Oct, 20:00
Jean-Michel Jarre (Synth Pop/Electronica)
MA
20 Oct, 20:00
Paul Simon (Folk Rock)
TD
27 Oct, 21:00
Lloyd Cole (Singer/Songwriter)
HN
28 Oct, 20:00
Zucchero (Rock/Blues)
MA
4 Nov, 21:00
Booka Shade (Electronica)
HN
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7 Nov, 20:00
Placebo (Rock)
MA
14 Nov, 19:00
Status Quo (Rock)
MS
16 Nov, 20:00
Jacob Collier (Jazz)
LI
16 Nov, 20:00
Katie Melua (Singer/Songwriter)
AD
25 Nov, 20:00
Royal Republic (Rock)
CH
EXHIBITION:
GERMAN COLONIALISM
EXHIBITIONS
Until 20 November
An Urban Landscape A 360 Panorama of Rome
by Friedrich Loos
Landscape painting underwent a boom around 1800 and
included urban space as a motif. Rome with its ancient ruins
and Mediterranean light offered inspiration for city views.
Central to this cabinet exhibition is a five-part panorama of
Rome painted by Graz-born painter Friedrich Loos in 1850.
AN
Until 9 January
Pina Bausch and the Tanztheater
Pina Bausch (19402009) is recognised as a pioneer of
modern dance theatre and as one of the most influential
choreographers of the twentieth century. This exhibition
focuses not only on the work in terms of staged performances
but above all on the very foundations of the choreographers
oeuvre, on her creative practice and on the key aspects and
people that have accompanied and shaped her progress.
MG
Until 26 February
Golden Ratio
Youll find it in pineapples, in Da Vincis art, in the face of Marilyn
Monroe and in the architecture of Leipzigs Old Town Hall. The
golden ratio seems omnipresent, even in cat photos or videos
of a brawl in the Ukrainian parliament. The proportion ratio,
known since antiquity, was elevated to the harmonic ideal in
the 19th century. Is there a mathematical principle behind this
beauty or is the golden formula just a beautiful myth?
MK
Until 26 February
Ernst Ludwig Kirchner: Hieroglyphics
Kirchners works from the collection of Berlins
Nationalgalerie will be shown for the first time in their
entirety. Hardly any other museum can present the
wide variety of his work as impressively, and they are
complemented by important loans clarifying Kirchners
hieroglyph concept and works by contemporary artists
Rosa Barba and Rudolf Stingel.
HB
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14 October - 14 May
The new exhibition German Colonialism Fragments
Past and Present at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
is the first to look at the short but eventful era of German
colonialism, which lasted from 1884 until the end of
the First World War in 1918. Germany was one of the
major colonial powers at that time, but only in recent
years has its colonial past found its way into public
consciousness to a significant degree partly due to
the debates about the recognition of the genocide of
the Herero and Nama people in present-day Namibia.
Colonial ideology, based on the belief of a European
superiority, lead to the routine exercise of violence
up to the colonial war in Namibia, which developed
into genocide. Players in the colonial game, each with
their own aims, included missionaries, officials, military
personnel, settlers and merchants. Learn more about
Germanys controversial memory of its colonial past,
how the affected countries deal with their past and
about the present situation.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Extra admission 4.
October - November 2016
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21
Mitte
FOOD WITH A VIEW
Mitte
ASIAN
FINE DINING
JOLLY
Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and
S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and
modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and
Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast
duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but theres
also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried
meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF3,
Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel.
+49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www.
restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. . AUBS
AIGNER
One of Berlins best places to eat, Aigner is truly
international, as its name, concept and all the old
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese caf that
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced
fresh from the market.QF3, Franzsische Strae 25,
Mitte, MU Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50,
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00.
. TUGBSW
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
curries are rich and buttery.QF3, Oranienburger Strae
69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97,
www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. . AB
PANORAMA CAF
The 1930s-style caf at the top of the popular Potsdamer
Platz viewing point has large windows and an open terrace with great views over Berlin, and serves coffee, cakes
and other snacks.QE4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:0017:00. Tower admission 6,50/5, family ticket 15,50.
ZUM NUSSBAUM
What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest.
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons dont care for
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities
with curious translations, such as brown rolls with dripping.
QG3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. . GB
ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ
Berlins oldest restaurant doesnt lie on the tourist path,
and maybe thats why German leaders bring visiting
heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too
noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989,
and Gerhard Schrder brought Jacques Chirac over for
the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG3,
Waisenstrae 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49
30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. . GBS
22 Berlin In Your Pocket
NEW
OTITO
Staying open later than others in Berlins tourist district,
Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great
prices, to eat in or take away. Theres fried spring rolls,
wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes
as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger
Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www.
otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
VAN LONG
Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities,
from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty
Thai options served in a modest space decorated with
Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La
Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau
chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstrae
8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570,
www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
AUSTRIAN
BRECHT KELLER
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress
making do with East German ingredients, so though
decent, its not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) thats famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery
where the couple are buried.QF2, Chausseestrae 125,
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43,
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. . B
berlin.inyourpocket.com
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didnt have to invest much to make a good
first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
buildings original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF3, Franzsische
Strae 47, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. . GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet
restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly
light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the
market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis
on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils design is
a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large
central skylight that retracts.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05
12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00
- 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . UGB
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FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurants name comes from a tongue-twister
and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined
palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the
Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany.
The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since
pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester
in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef ).
The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and
a fireplace.QF3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:3023:00. . PAG hh
LUTTER & WEGNER
Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the
sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a
bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus
on Gendarmenmarkt. Theres a warren of rooms in which
to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
INTERNATIONAL
NOLAS AM WEINBERG
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace,
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of
St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order
meals until midnight.QG2, Veteranenstrae 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.
nola.de. Open 10:00-01:00. . TUGBS
REINHARDS
Reinhards friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table
in no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG3,
Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. -.
TGBS
23
Mitte
TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, The
Grape serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF2,
Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel.
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:0015:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. .
TGB
JAPANESE
COCOLO
A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of
salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have
an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG2, Gipsstrae 3,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
84. Open 18:00-24:00. . GB
SUSHI CIRCLE
This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If youre not quick enough to grab the pieces passing
by on the bars conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle
around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle
to whip a request off for you.QF3, Franzsische Strae
48, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 650
60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:0023:00. .
SPANISH
YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this
intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and
a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its
roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice
vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing
towards the Hackescher Hfe.QG3, Rosenthaler
Strae 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49
30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. .
PAB
CAFS
BARCOMIS DELI
Barcomis is well known for its house-roasted coffee and
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
meringue cake, devils food cake, pecan pie and other
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream
cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also
salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeersterei
24 Berlin In Your Pocket
Mitte
outlet (Bergmannstrae 21) has fresh coffee.QF5,
Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. . TGBS
THE DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsofts very first
caf showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (8,90),
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic
devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys
that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or
play Xbox games.QF3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel.
+49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W
Nightlife
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Strae haunt.QF3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@
aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB
EASTWOOD BERLIN-MITTE
A high-end lounge bar and weekend club nearby
Gendarmenmarkt, with a glamorous modern interior by
local designer Emell Gk Che, a regularly changing cocktail
menu, and champagne. The club part is open on weekend
nights, when DJs pump out house, lounge, electro and
jazz sounds - use the VIP table service to make the night
complete.QRosmarinstr. 8, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 67 90
54, reservierung@eastwood-berlin.de, www.eastwoodberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Club open Fri/
Sat 23:00-06:00. W
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RMSCHRMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in
the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG3,
Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de,
www.eschschloraque.de.
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Schtzenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nhe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com
Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
CLUBS
GRNER SALON
Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG2, Volksbhne,
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scenes smoke and its stuck-in-theSocialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminers
wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry
slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning
anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG2, Torstrae
60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64
95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E
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ROTER SALON
This place probably began with a faded elegance, but lets
say its just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off
its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge,
and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG2,
Volksbhne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU RosaLuxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.rotersalon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
WEEK-END CLUB
A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
agency specialising in saying no) on the corner of OttoBraun-Strae.QG3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open ThuSat 23:00-04:00.
PUBS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn
station offer more than enough space for natives and
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make
sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and German
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG3,
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW
CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
a tour including game instructions.QE4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission 2,50. Minimum age
is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.
October - November 2016
25
Mitte
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlins landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit
marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the
Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades.
Berliners celebrated the Walls fall in 1989 by standing on it
in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the
proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF3,
Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.
NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the
restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866,
with preserved evidence of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht
on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs.
Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish
community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped
here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle
but effective sound installation adds to the experience.QF3,
Oranienburger Strae 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open
Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:0017:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu
until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission 3,50/3.
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and
suffered again when most remaining buildings were demolished
to make way for the Walls death strip. Hotel and office skyscrapers
now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east
Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space
and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge
atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive
lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden
shopping mall.QE/F4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
Mitte
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlins tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche.
The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the
entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins 750th birthday
in the area in which the fishermens settlement first began.
No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many
of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that
the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the
area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly
fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river.
On Rathausstrae, theres a row of restaurants that flaunt
old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt
historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the
Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.QG3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de.
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here.
After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was
set on fire just one month after Hitler was appointed
chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre
in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while
later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was
used as parliament again after a reunited German
government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by
Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most
public federal building in the world through its glass
dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the
buildings history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. Its best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for
remaining places at the visitor centre just across the
road. Photo ID is required.QF3, Platz der Republik
1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.
de/htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked
rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at
09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00.
Admission free.
CHURCHES
MEMORIALS
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating
from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss
were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR
regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal
Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here.
The climb up to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad
staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG3, Am
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20
26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission
7/4.
FHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life,
Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an
air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced
concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached
by walking to the end of In den Ministergrten, off
Ebertstrae. A parking area surrounded by a prefabricated apartment complex covers the location, which
was entirely sealed off during the complexs construction
in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the
Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on
Wilhelmstrae.QF3, In den Ministergrten, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque German Church from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking
is required for individual visitors.QF3, Gendarmenmarkt
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
FRANZSISCHER DOM
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkts
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and
similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque
Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and
French only), dedicated to the thousands of French
protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century.
Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40
metres above street level, with great views all around.
QF3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
+49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open
12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon.
Admission 2/1, viewing balcony 2.50/1.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF4,
Friedrichstrae 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@
bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
5/3,50.
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27
Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Czanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are
some of the artists whose works hang around this
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully
battered colonnade.QG3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussias star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG3, Am
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
According to the myth, currywurst is Berlins very own
fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
found at train stations and street corners across the city.
This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
culinary creation. Theres a shop with sausage accessories
and you can taste currywurst too.QF4, Schtzenstrae
70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.
currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war
building on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the
Daimler companys art collection is presented in four
well-curated exhibitions per year. The collection has
mainly abstract artworks from the 20th century until
now, and a few of the larger sculptures are on permanent
display in the streets around the museum.QE4, Alte
Potsdamer Strae 5, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14
20, www.sammlung.daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive
German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main
building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germanys
history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in
28 Berlin In Your Pocket
Mitte
266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the New Museum is new again and is full of
ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
considered to be degenerate art by the Nazis.QG3,
Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG3, Am
Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent
an audio tour set for 3 or join the English-language
highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF3, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30
40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 8/4.
Under 18 free.
GEDENKSTTTE BERLINER MAUER
The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Walls history in text, slides and dramatic film footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
several more open-air exhibitions.QF2, Bernauer Strae
111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467
98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00,
Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition
open 24hrs). Admission free.
GEMLDEGALERIE
Berlins largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works
spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters
include Drer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians
are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Opening hours
daily from 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m.
Getting there
U6 Kochstrae
U2 Stadtmitte
M29 Kochstrae
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asisi.berlin
www.asisi.de
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In cooperation with
29
Mitte
PANORAMAPUNKT
Landesarchiv Berlin
PANORAMAPUNKT
It takes just 20 seconds on Europes fastest elevator to
get shot up to Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoffs magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New Yorks skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the
top floors theres a short film and an exhibition about
the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
went from a world-class entertainment district to a Walldivided wasteland and back again within a generation.
The caf and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views
of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
Tiergarten park.QE4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Nov - Mar
10:00 - 18:00. Admission 6,50/5, family ticket 15,50.
VIEWPOINTS
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline. The
368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in
Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
QG3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
www.tv-turm.de. Admission 12/8.
Shopping
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafs. Theres a
massive kids area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
exhibition.QG3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
30 Berlin In Your Pocket
Mitte
GUDRUN SJDN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjdn in a
bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. Theres two
floors of clothing and a cozy caf corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.
de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD
The flagship store of Germanys famous Ritter Sport
chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
own chocolate bar.QFranzsische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Hotels
OVER 200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles 240
- 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478, 78 suites 531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
HILTON
Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
and exotic spa treatments.QF2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.
com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
HOTEL DE ROME
Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103 doubles
395 - 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).
MARRIOTT
Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
berlin.inyourpocket.com
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and
long-term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great views over Tiergarten park and hosts
the top-notch Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the
suites at Friedrichstrae 185-190 are close to all
the action.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 3, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 00,
welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de.
157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstrae 122) has a garden with a lawn and
goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF2,
Tieckstrae 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30
284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de.
24 rooms (singles 95 - 155, doubles 125 - 225).
AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys thirdlargest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all
renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and ironing
board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.
QG3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@rezidorparkinn.com,
www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles
89 - 125, 671 doubles 89 - 125, 23 suites 130 - 185).
Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
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Opening hours:
Platform: 10:00-20:00
Caf: 11:00-19:00
Shorter opening hours during winter
Potsdamer Platz 1
www.panoramapunkt.de
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ASIAN
Suksan
ZILLEMARKT
Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous
for his charming portraits of Berlins lower classes, stroll
in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage
leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves
breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and
you can down a Zillebru beer in the glass-ceilinged
bar.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de,
www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 24:00. TB
JJ
Zillemarkt
Cafhaus Restaurant
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
34 Berlin In Your Pocket
HUGOS
The InterContinentals Michelin-starred French restaurant
on the 14th floor has stunning views across the park to
Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeiers cuisine is equally
dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fine flavours in the
lightest of dishes.QD4, Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63,
www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed
Mon, Sun. . TUGW h
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD4,
Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
LE PETIT ROYAL
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but theres great steak
too. And its no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out.
QC4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.
AUSTRIAN
INTERNATIONAL
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owners home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
spots.QC4, Kantstrae 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. . VGB
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC4, Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmannrestaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
. UGB
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB3,
Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . TVGBS
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieters
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who cant
move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying
at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far
berlin.inyourpocket.com
SUKSAN
FRENCH
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlins roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. . UGB
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in
the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a
dazzling 1920s building near the Kudamm. The open
kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert
create culinary treats.QD4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683
15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 23:00. -.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
ORIGINA
L
THAI FOO
D
SUKSAN
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfrstenstrasse
U - Wittenbergplatz
www.suksan.de
TEL 030.21 01 86 73
October - November 2016
35
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space
only. Every day theres a completely different menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian
dishes.QC4, Mommsenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorncatering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
NGS
ITALIAN
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can
weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include
Moorish and Catalan specialities and theres also tapas if
you just want to snack while watching the boulevards
shoppers pass by.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 203-205,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 02:00. . B
FRANCUCCIS
Francuccis kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
truffles.QB4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TVGBSW
LA FORCHETTA
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer,
a romantic terrace is available.QA5, Knigsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 24:00. B
ZWLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian
food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent,
and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options offer
good value. Also at Georgenstrae 2, under the S-Bahn track
in Mitte.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 49, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de.
Open 08:00 - 01:00. . TNGBS
JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, heres your
chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls
with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, JeanneMammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz,
tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . TGBS
RUSSIAN
SAMOWAR
Berlins oldest Russian restaurant can fittingly be found
in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular
with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century.
Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Stroganoff, Odessa
fish soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful
36 Berlin In Your Pocket
SPANISH
CAFS
CAF AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This caf, restaurant
and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
served till 22:00.QD4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 23:00. -. TUGB
Nightlife
BARS
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesnt take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up,
and quite steady on their feet.QD5, Winterfeldstrae 50,
Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15,
www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used
by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a
font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals
come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade
wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz
or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and
magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals,
like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until
03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social
arrangement.QC4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfischberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. -. NBSW
Caf im Literaturhaus
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
37
401
whiskies
PUBS
THE HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports
events to be beamed on screens, and theres quiz nights
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special
occasions.QB4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun
from 10:00. -. EBW
UNION JACK
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this
whisky pub is one of Berlins first true pubs and continues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too home made snacks and Walkers
crisps.QC4, Schlterstrae 15, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjackberlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from
19:00. Sun closed.
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz
3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49
30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de,
www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00
June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:0016:00. Admission 7/5.
38 Berlin In Your Pocket
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussias
first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
in 1695, todays version, distinguished by its 505-meter
facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790.
You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30
32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar
10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues
closed. Admission 12/8, New Wing 6/5. Photo permit
3.
CHURCHES
GEDCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlins landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germanys culpability is declared on a
plaque: The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of Gods judgement, which befell our people during the war years. The 1895 church was once a symbol of
national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the
amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place
every week, many of them free.QD4, Breitscheidplatz,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 218
50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:0019:00.
BRHAN MUSEUM
A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and
craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by
so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy
and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent
collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases,
and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter
Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.
QB3, Schlostrae 1a, Charlottenburg, MU SophieCharlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehanmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
6/4.
C/O BERLIN
The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic
Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are
multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown
and renowned photographers. Dont miss the cafe and the
museum shop either.QC4, Hardenbergstrae 22-24,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49
30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00.
Admission 10/5.
MUSEUM FR ASIATISCHE KUNST
Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art
museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian,
Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each
tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room
dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting
and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese
woodcuts.QTakustrae 40, Zehlendorf, MU DahlemDorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3.
Hotels
OVER 200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set
in the 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an
interesting mix of creatives and business visitors. The
1920s-style bar and many rooms overlook the zoo,
with ostriches and antelopes peering back at you.
The rooms and grand suites are spread across the
old and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden
and copper details. A small pool can be found in the
spa area, and theres the first-class Cinco restaurant.
QD4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms
(70 doubles from 200, 20 suites 290-740). PH
UFGKDCW
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, theres gourmet food
at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further
relaxation options can be found in the large spa
complex, with several saunas and fitness facilities.QD4,
Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com,
www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles 165 350, 498 doubles 170 - 400, 60 suites 215 - 2500).
Breakfast extra. PTHAUFLEGBK
DCWhhhhh
KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
- out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
a swank corner of Kudamm.QC4, Kurfrstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30
88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles 265 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470 - 1800).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
large.QD 4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20,
hotel@palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59
singles 200 - 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325, 32 suites
325 - 2150).
PHARUFLGKDC
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October - November 2016
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In Your Pocket
berlin.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
October - SNovember
2016 41
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Friedrichshain
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Oberbaumbrcke
ASIAN
GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with gingermango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings.
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the
vegetarian options. Theres a good selection of drinks and
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by;
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective
lines, theres a large harbour scene on one wall and the
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI4,
Sonntagstrae 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel.
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . AUBSW
INTERNATIONAL
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
what more does a meat-lover want? Theres a good
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. . TUNGBS
CUPCAKE BERLIN
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together
with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert
snack with its own caf dedicated to it. Try The King
cupcake (with Elvis favourite ingredients), the sweet
42 Berlin In Your Pocket
CAFS
BARS
MUSEUMS
CRACK BELLMER
A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking
however; theres film screenings, and a good-sized space
for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance
at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Strae.QI4, Revaler
Strae 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae,
www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.
UNB
COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM
The worlds first computer games museum presents six epic
decades of gaming history, including the Giant Joystick,
Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine and
the Wall of Hardware. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and
working classics you can try several games yourself.QI3,
Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese,
tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/5.
HABERMEYER
Like many Berlin bars, Habermeyer recycles the 1970s with
its light fixtures and furnishings but it also created its own
unusual wall designs. A popular table football and flipper
machine provide distraction from the loud and very varied DJ
music, though theres no space to dance, but theres free salty
snacks to console you.QJ4, Grtnerstrae 6, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 29 77 18 87, www.habermeyerbar.de. Open from 19:00 - open end. UNB
DEUTSCH-RUSSISCHES MUSEUM
In the southeast, the building where Germany signed
its surrender on 8 May 1945 now serves as the GermanRussian museum. More rooms focus on World War II, but
exhibits include Soviet relations to both East and West
Germany and the presence of the war following the war.
QZwieseler Strae 4, Lichtenberg, MS Karlshorst, tel.
+49 30 50 15 08 10, www.museum-karlshorst.de. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
CLUBS
STASI MUSEUM
East Germanys State Security Service or Stasi was responsible for
intelligence gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its
own citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and
family of those they wished to keep an eye on. Today, this humble
museum shows the office of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi
minister for 32 years, in its original dull state. Theres a video of him
testifying before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist kitsch,
and many documents in German.QRuschestrae 103, Haus 1,
Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstrae, tel. +49 30 553 68 54,
www.stasimuseum.de. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 18:00. Admission 5/4. Closed until 17 Jan.
BERGHAIN
A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the
main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms
of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the
queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always
varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best
atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays
too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI3/4, Am
Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel.
+49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. UNGBW
KAUFBAR
At this homey caf you can wash down your chocolate
croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine.
Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go:
the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays.
The only thing not for sale in the Buy Bar are their board
games.QJ4, Grtnerstrae 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.
kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 24:00. TUNGBSW
MATRIX
Directly underneath under the Warschauer Strae U-Bahn
station DJs lay down tracks of RnB, straight house, soul,
electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors within the
vaults that date back to 1901. Theres always a party here,
365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday has
party classics with free champagne before midnight for
ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails.QI4,
Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strae, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrix-berlin.de.
Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission 3-6. UGBW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of Garca Mrquez novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful reading caf.
Theres old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday
market, good coffee and original South American mate tea,
sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI4,
Grtnerstrae 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strae, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.
de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
POSTBAHNHOF CLUB
Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this well-run
club set inside the former mail station next to Ostbahnhof has
three dancefloors and an outdoor bar. The music varies nightly
depending on the party theme; everything from 90s, RnB and
rock to house and electro. Unlike other clubs in the area, this
is no overhyped favourite - you can simply expect to have a
good time here. Also known for concerts and other events.
QStrae der Pariser Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 698 12 80, www.postbahnhof.club.
Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Admission 4-7,50.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
STASI PRISON
The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the Stasi
Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship. Used by
the Soviets and the GDRs secret service to extract confessions
in advance of (show) trials, the Hohenschnhausen prison
swallowed thousands of people who underwent horrific
physical and psychological torture in the chilling submarine
cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short film is followed
by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly explaining how
efficiently the prison system worked, and how nobody ever
escaped. Take tram M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder
Strae and walk 600 metres.QGenslerstrae 66, tel. +49 30
98 60 82 30, www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed,
Sat, Sun at 14:30. Admission 5.
THE WALL MUSEUM (MAUERMUSEUM)
Right next to the East Side Gallery, the longest remaining stretch
of the Berlin Wall, this new museum uses films of historic events
and interviews with witnesses plus some exhibits to tell the
story of the structure that split the city from 1961 to 1989. Not
to be confused with the Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie.
QMhlenstrasse 78-80, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strasse, tel. +49 30 82 71 77 17 40, www.thewallmuseum.
com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 12.50/6.50.
October - November 2016
43
Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Berg
tr.
as
Ho
itzs
Gub
str.
Gre
Ha
tr.
H.Eis
ifs
S
Greifswalder Str. Sto
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INTERNATIONAL
Jdischer
FLEISCHLUST
Friedhof
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill n chill.
Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided,
theres a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the
wine and cocktail
menu.QH1, nPappelallee
36, Prenzlauer
rad tr.
Stelle eg
Ko lf-Stel.
rw
Berg, MS/U Schnhauser
Allee,
+49 30 44 67 54 14,
o
W
Volkspark
www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - open end.
ch
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tr.
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Gleimstr.
Falkplatz
RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH2, Husemannstrae
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. -. TBSW
Max-S
nan
rm .
lle str
Ramlerstr.
Volkspark
Humboldthain
Dnenstr.
Die Schule
METZER ECK
Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest
tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and thats the way the regulars
like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages,
Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes),
and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern
owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box
that regulars once contributed to.QG2, Metzer Strae 33,
Pisttel. +49 30 442 76
FAST
ee FOOD
Berg, MU Senefelder Platz,
SPrenzlauer
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www.metzer-eck.de.
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ans Closed Sun. . NGBS
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setr. in 1930. This simple shack is a stconvenient
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Eric
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S
DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlins prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG2,
Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Strae, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
PRECISE MYERS
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH2, Metzer Strae
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles
75 - 135, 33 doubles 85
Erich
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October - November 2016
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Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG2,
Schnhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB
JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this five-table joint, but theres takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about 3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak
English.QH2, Rykestrae 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. .
Prenzlauer Berg
SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldnt look out of place in a nightclub
but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). Theres an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH2, Wrtherstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and
wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor
the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better
places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
dont make it out of the country and theres also a selection
of sherries.QH1, Lychener Strae 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
CAFS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed caf. Serving up
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
its one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door and the smell of coffee and
fresh flowers combines very well.QH2, Kollwitzstrae 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
Noise and Smoke is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But its more than just a caf - the adjacent
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG1,
Gleimstrae 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
BARS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there arent just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG1, Lychner
Strae 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
46 Berlin In Your Pocket
@InYourPocket
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large living room is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shuffled to make room
for the rumpled but attractive crowds. Theres coffee and
pastries in the morning.QH1, Lettestrae 6, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 445 54 58,
www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.
CLUBS
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this
otherwise spacious cellar. Dont miss the mad monthly drag
party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you
have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH2, Am
Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstrae,
tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open
Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a
fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
on Thursdays and Sundays (5, starting off with a lesson
hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays theres five dancefloors
with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get
in for free until 01:00.QSchnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 443 151 55,
info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu
20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00
Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and youll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you wont find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG2, Schnhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
MUSEUMS
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZELS MIETSHAUS
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzels apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid
living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and
Berlin.QH1, Dunckerstrae 77, Prenzlauer Berg,
MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.
ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - 16:30.
Closed Wed. Admission 2/1.
Shopping
BOOKS
SHAKESPEARE & SONS
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH1,
Raumerstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer
Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative
souvenirs and antiques - its all available (though not
particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market.
Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG1, Bernauer Strae
63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Strae, tel. 0176
29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun
09:00-15:00.
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KARTOFFELPFANNE
The best-tasting potatoes in Berlin, Wiener Schnitzel
and vanilla pudding with Rote Grtze (fruit sauce) are all
found at the Pfanne. The good beer selection includes
Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.QF5, Burgherrenstrae
11, Tempelhof, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30
892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. Open 11:30 - 23:00.
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youtube.com/inyourpocket
HENNE
Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few
Wursts, chicken is all thats served in this cosy corner tavern,
along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaise-filled potato
salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for
quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a
lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH4, Leuschnerdamm
25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30,
www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun
17:00-22:00. Mon closed. . NGBS
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ALTES ZOLLHAUS
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house
along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic
atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things
such as goats cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes.
QG5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstrae, tel.
+49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGBW
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GETTING THERE
The Bergmannstrae area is best reached from
Friedrichstrae station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrcke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzklln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schnleinstrae and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
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49
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
SARODS
Kreuzbergs friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on
the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast
rice, coriander and spices). Theres a good selection of wines
too.QFriesenstrae 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustrae,
tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . TGBSW
THAIRESTAURANT
traditional healthy Thai cuisine
fresh and dainty
AUSTRIAN
Sarods
ASIAN
CHAN
A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical
Asian street food. Theres everything from Thai spring
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies
too.QH5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
. UNGBSW
KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlins first Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capitals gourmets as the
first one to serve authentic dishes that is, not drowned
in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. Its indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to
find a free table in the evening.QH4, Skalitzer Strae 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. .
TUGBSW
KIM QUI
The popular golden turtle serves authentic Vietnamese
food in pleasant surroundings at incredibly good prices,
with delicious hot pho soup dishes. Hot and cold rice
and noodle meals are complemented by fruity shakes
and exotic ice cream desserts.QF2, Oranienstrae 168,
Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 68,
www.kim-qui.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00,
Sun 16:00 - 24:00. . TNGBS
KINNAREE THAI
Named after a mythological creature representing female
beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable
Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken
skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps
and bamboo. Theres a range of cocktails and quality wines
too.QSdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49305779 41 99,
www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:0023:00, Sat 13:00
23:00.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF5, Bergmannstrae 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. . TUBS
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves
a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope),
amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes
with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and
simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden
overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian
officers.QF5, Hagelbergerstrae 9, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmersrestaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. -.
TGBSW
FAST FOOD
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, youll
order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in
comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you
might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus
who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities
you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried
burgers, Boulette.QF5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.
curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. . S
GLCK TO GO
This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip
to Indias Gujarat province and serves happiness to go:
delicious protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with
ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all homemade with organic and regionally sourced ingredients.
The delicious Orient Express burger has beet root, spices
and special date chutney, and theres three other burgers
to choose from. Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand
yoghurt. Set menus from 6-8,50.QF5, Friesenstrae
26, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 623
10 04, www.glueck-to-go.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00-20:00. . B
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51
Kreuzberg
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals
belly up to. Its a restaurant that
doesnt let its looks carry it: the
kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle
takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu
changes weekly, but count on Sptzle, Schweinebraten
(braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from
Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00.
After dinner, check if anything is going down in the
Auster Club in the cellar.QH4, Pcklerstrae 34,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617
55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . B
INDIAN
AAPKA
Tasty and affordable Indian curries, rice and tandoori
dishes, lassi and desserts in an orange-coloured
space overlooking a lively street crossing and the
Landwehrkanal. The Sunday brunch, from 11:00,
is especially recommended, but book a table.
QMaybachufer 23, Neuklln, MU Schnleinstrae,
tel. +49 30 613 55 47, www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . AB
AMAR
A large, cosy restaurant with modern furnishings, Indian
elements and big windows overlooking the terrace,
filled with eating locals and visitors in summertime.
Amar serves attractive Indian weekday lunch menus
from just 4.40, and delicious dinner courses, just as
spicy as you need it to be. After dinner, the cocktail menu
usually convinces the young clientele to stay longer.
One of the most famous and beloved Restaurant for
good food, service, atmosphere and cheep prices.QI4,
Schlesische Strae 9, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches
Tor, tel. +49 30 69 56 66 73, www.amar-berlin.de.
Open 11:30-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. . TUN
GBS
SWERA
Right on Kreuzbergs popular Bergmannstrasse,
Swera is an authentic Indian restaurant with a range
of dishes from the subcontinent, including many
vegetarian and vegan options. On weekdays, theres
a filling business lunch offer from 4,50 including a
wide range of curries. Swera also doubles as a cocktail
bar, serving exotic drinks till late at night; arrive in
time for happy hour for good deals.QBergmannstr.
103, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 61
20 33 01, res.swera@gmx.de, www.swera.de. Open
11:00 - 01:00.
52 Berlin In Your Pocket
Kreuzberg
INTERNATIONAL
ANKERKLAUSE
The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who
come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness
how peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can coexist. On a good day, the French toast with fruit can
come out looking like its auditioning for the WaldorfAstorias buffet. The Mexican breakfast will tide you
over for two meals.QH5, Kottbusser Damm 104,
Neuklln, MU Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 30 693 56 49,
www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:0004:00. . TUNGB
HOPPETOSSE
An elegant white ship moored along Treptows Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional
and international meals to go with good sunset views
towards Oberbaumbrcke bridge, just upstream. For
daytime visitors theres drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up
on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI5, Eichenstrae 4,
Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40,
www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. -. NG
BSW
SAGE RESTAURANT
If theres such a thing as industrial charm, this is where
to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant with starkly
modern and white furnishings contrasting with raw
factory bricks, peeling paint and chains. The food served
is imaginative gastronomy; in summer, Sage opens earlier
to serve lunch on its riverside terrace with deckchairs and
a beach bar.QH4, Kpenicker Strae 18-20, Kreuzberg,
MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.
sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon. .
TUEGBW
VAN LOON
Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant
ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on
the Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large
windows, but the views better from the sundeck. Theres
salmon, herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a
range of special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat,
vegetarian and vegan meals too.QG5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7,
Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstrae, tel. +49 30 692 62 93,
www.vanloon.de. Open 09:00-01:00. . TENG
BW
CALIGARI
A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez
neighbourhood of Neuklln, with freshly made pasta,
soups, salads and deserts. Theyre planning Supper
Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things
could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neuklln, tel. +49
30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00
- 23:00.
CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koons porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious
Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food,
and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try
the Strasburgo flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard
and Tirol bacon.QH4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60,
www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. -.
TUNGBSW
SALE E TABACCHI
This attractive restaurant with a nice garden and real Italian
waiters is a good option near Checkpoint Charlie, and is
not far from the Jewish Museum either. Theres a goodvalue lunch on weekdays, plus a wide range of imaginative
pasta, meat and fish dishes.QF4, Rudi-Dutschke-Str.
25, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae, tel. +49 30 252 11 55,
reservierung@sale-e-tabacchi.de, www.sale-e-tabacchi.
de. Open 10:00 - 23:30. -. TGBSW
TRENTASEI
Try home-made tortellini, regional ingredients, Italian
wines and fresh fish specialities at Trentasei, referring to
the 36 nickname for this part of the district. The warmly-lit
interior has a cabin feel, with plenty of brick and wood, plus
old-fashioned chairs around the tables.QSkalitzer Str. 34,
Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 69 50 69 30, info@trentasei.de,
www.trentasei.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
JAPANESE
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio weve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there
are additional changing dinner options too. For afterdinner cocktails simply go next door to the Wrgeengel
bar.QH4, Dresdener Strae 121, Kreuzberg,
MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.
gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00
- 02:00. . B
RICE UP
A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn station sells
delicious organic bento box take-away meals, consisting
of nori seaweed, rice and various fillings: vegan, veg, fish
or chicken. Theres coffee, chai, lemonade and smoothies
too. Also in Mitte, at Friedrichstrae 114.QH5, Kottbusser
Damm (Schnleinstrae U-Bahn station), Neuklln, MU
Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 151 50 10 13 88, www.rice-up.
de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Sun. . S
OSTERIA N1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a
fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive
trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from
different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order.
Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange
sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too.
Choose from six different lunch menus from 7.QF5,
Kreuzbergstrae 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00
- 01:00. . B
DAS EDELWEISS
The goods platform of the old Grlitzer Bahnhof train
station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the
Edelweiss restaurant and caf. Theres all-day breakfast,
great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products,
drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. Its especially
well-positioned for people-watching; Grlitzer Park
attracts Berlins most varied crowd.QH5, Grlitzerstrae
1-3 (Grlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open
09:30-02:00. . TUEBW
BEER GARDENS
ITALIAN
+39 PITRENTANOVE
Plus 39 is what you dial to reach Italy - but a corner of that
country can be found right next to Berlins Kreuzberg Park.
Italian chefs dish up great XXL pizza, fresh pasta, risotto,
homemade bread and other delicacies.QMckernstrae
73a, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06, info@plus39.
de, www.restaurant-berlin-kreuzberg.de. Open 11:30 00:00.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
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53
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
GOLGATHA
The most gruesome end youll meet at this Biergarten at
the southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those
watching their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas
near the table-football and grill, while sunbathers go
to the rooftop for a view of the playground and football
field. DJ music begins most nights at 22:00 inside on the
small dance floor.QF5, Katzbachstrae (Viktoriapark),
Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 785
24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de. Open from 10:00. .
TUBSW
KUCHENKAISER
A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since
1866, the cake emperor is famous for its cakes and tarts,
which were sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New
York in the 1920s. The restaurant also has a wide variety of
German specialities and international dishes. Theres a great
choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch
on Sundays. A must-see in Berlin.QG/H4, Oranienplatz
11-13, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26
97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 01:00. . B
BEER HOUSES
SALON SCHMCK
A crash-pad style neighbourhood caf that looks like a
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The
food is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast,
lunch and fantastic home-made juice - just make your
own selection of fruit. Come evening and there are
cocktails and DJs, and even the occasional living room
concert.QI4, Skalitzer Strae 80, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 00 47 75, www.salonschmueck.de. Open 09:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. .
TNGBSW
Nightlife
CAFS
BARS
CAF AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michaels
church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that
was once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge
of the pond is a sunny terrace caf. View of the water
and the rustling tall green reeds makes this a peaceful
respite from all things city while still being near the
heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was
once filled with rubble, and part of the Walls death
strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they offer a
choice of cocktails.QH4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91,
www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. .
TUNGBSW
FREISCHWIMMER
After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow
the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this
peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use
the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help
keep away the chill.QI5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a,
Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43
09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.de. Open Mo-Fri from
12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW
CAF RIX
A fabulous caf thats completely worth the trek out to
Berlins shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood.
Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town,
attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is
one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the
area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings
and big mirrors. Its just perfect for sipping coffee and
munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine
it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit
to Rixdorfs old village square and the lush Krnerpark.
QKarl-Marx-Strae 141, Neuklln, MU Karl-MarxStrae, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
. TUNGBSW
54 Berlin In Your Pocket
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF4,
Grossbeerenstrae 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E
MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and
hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to
cheer on their teams when football games are screened.
The murals and dark dcor can heighten your wooziness if
youve had one round too many.QH4, Manteuffelstrae
41, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611
70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
NBW
berlin.inyourpocket.com
ROSES
Its all so tactile here - both the fuzzy red walls and people
packed end to end in this tiny kitsch-o-mat. The music is
clubby and the upbeat energy makes it a good choice for
a solo night out. The ladies behind the bar are favourites
of Siegessule, the local gay listings magazine.QH4,
Oranienstrae 187, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel.
+49 30 615 65 70. Open 22:00-04:00.
WRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuels
film El ngel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a
great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a
dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50
reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH4, Dresdener
Strae 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30
615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00.
. B
CLUBS
JUNCTION BAR
Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a fourman blues band, but dios mio for the ten-piece AfroCuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and
generationally mixed audience every night of the week.
After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance
floor.QF5, Gneisenaustrae 18, Kreuzberg, MU
Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junctionbar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. ENGB
SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
thats home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks
and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans.
On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party
or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait
with the friendly door staff.QH4, Oranienstrae 190,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40
13 06, www.so36.de. Check their website for opening
times. UENG
WATERGATE
This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for spying
on Universal Music headquarters across the water, even if the
crowd here would never dance to their pop artists. Also in view
(and right next door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrcke, which
makes an odd backdrop to techno, house, or any guest DJ on
the upper or lower dance floors.QI4, Falckensteinstrae
49, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03
94, www.water-gate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00.
Admission 8-12. UENGB
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlins rare live-music venues brings in
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. Theres an
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
BERLIN IN BOOKS
BERLIN COMPANION
One of Berlins most fascinating aspects is the sheer endless number
of amazing and tragic stories that illuminate the citys past and present
importance. Blogs delight in uncovering the weird and wonderful tales,
none better than Kreuzberged.com,
whose creator has now published
Notmrsparkers Berlin Companion or I Didnt Know
That About Berlin. Her collection of Berlin facts and
trivia includes everything you need to know about the
names of streets and districts, remarkable buildings,
public transport (ever heard of the Magnet-Bahn?),
wonderful things invented in Berlin (computers, seamless condoms and artificial limbs!), illumination (30,000
gaslights), tunnels (and the bunkers beneath Viktoriapark) and of course stories concerning East and West.
Essential reading for the heaps of mindboggling trivia.
Notmrsparkers Berlin Companion (2016, ISBN
9783864605284) by Beata Gontarczyk-Krampe is
for sale for 19 at via www.book-on-demand.de/
shop/14931 and www.amazon.de.
for the stage area.QH5, Wiener Strae 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
JAZZ CLUBS
YORCKSCHLSSCHEN
This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century,
gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists watering hole and
now a hub of local social life. Theres a busy bar that features
regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional jazz, swing
and black rhythmnblues. Concerts take place on Wed, Fri and
Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here is very nicely priced.
QF5, Yorckstrae 15, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www.yorckschloesschen.de. Open
17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. . TEBSW
Sightseeing
MUSEUMS
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
One of Berlins best museums is unmistakably recognisable by
the Douglas C47 plane suspended above the main building.
The huge complex set in and around an old freight station rail
depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios
and much more. Outside there are windmills and a brewery.
Theres a hands-on Spectrum science centre for children too.
QF4, Trebbiner Strae 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck,
tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,5.
October - November 2016
55
Kreuzberg
GAME SCIENCE CENTER
The new Game Science Center is a small, interactive
museum of the future, run by a team of game developers.
Introducing a number of innovative technologies and
playful projects, visitors can learn about and try many
new ways to interact with computers - for example with
gestures or eye movements. Try out the Oculus Rift VR
glasses, the Nagual Dance installation, or play table tennis
with the computer in Pong Invaders.QCharlottenstr. 1,
Kreuzberg, www.gamesciencecenter.de. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/8.
HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE
A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks,
tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunneldigging attest to necessity and desire being the mother
of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of
separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fedup senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall.
The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division
of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements.
QF4, Friedrichstrae 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU
Kochstrae, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.
de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 12,50/9,50.
JDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many
ways in which German life and Jewish history are
intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark voids for
contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than
the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF4,
Lindenstrae 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel.
+49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 5/2,50, special
exhibitions 4/2, combined ticket 7/3,50.
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
is the work of Martin Gropius, great uncle of Walter Gropius,
a founder of the Bauhaus school of design. The building
was completed in 1881 and originally served as a royal art
museum. Like most of central Berlin, it ended the war in
a badly damaged state and wasnt re-opened until 1981.
Today, under the auspices of the Berliner Festspiele, the
Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions.
QF4, Niederkirchnerstrae 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.
de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue.
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all
that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS)
Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the
adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to
highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military
and security groups that were headquartered in this area,
and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast
across Europe. The most important lesson to take home
56 Berlin In Your Pocket
City tours
is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive
thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes
and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF4,
Niederkirchnerstrae 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae, tel.
+49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.
Different underground tours Mar Nov daily Dec Feb Thur Mon
Subway Gesundbrunnen (U8), Brunnenstr. 105 www.berliner-unterwelten.de
Anzeige
in your
pocketcorner
2011.indd
1 though youll need
Theres
a story
on every
in Berlin,
a guide to hear it. Its a huge, fascinating city and attractions
are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If youre here
for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you
join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS
Shopping
BOOKS
BUCHHANDLUNG MORITZPLATZ
A good selection of quality books on Berlin, literature, art
and architecture. The wonderful Aufbau Haus also has
artists equipment and a caf.QG4, Prinzenstrae 85
(Aufbau Haus), Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 61 67 52 70, www.
buchhandlung-moritzplatz.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
16.02.15
08:52
the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on
or hop-off
as you like. Theres also a narrated Wall & Lifestyle tour taking
in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets 15/12/5.
57
City tours
Bren Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing
(www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr
Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.
berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 22/11.
Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) 16,50/11.
Reach thousands
of foreign visitors
to Berlin...
Inquire for advertising opportunities
at berlin@inyourpocket.com
ONLINE
CHARTERTRIPS ON
HISTORICAL BOATS
... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with
Aphrodite or Oskar
10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36
Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60
www.schiffskontor.de
MOBILE
RIVER TOURS
MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on
Berlins waterways. Theres the rustic open-top Oskar from
1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty
from 1950 in which youll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.
schiffskontor.de.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
berlin.inyourpocket.com
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Schlesischer
Pallasstr.
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Hohenstaufenstr.
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Ma
Horn
r.
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Barbarossastr.
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Sanderstr.
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.
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Gnzelstr.
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Pflgerstr
He
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U
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es
Gneis
Eisenacher Str.
tr.
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l
str.
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b
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al
K
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n
w
Bayerischer
e
Kre
aust
Bergm
U Grune
Schmoller- rger
Vorbe
r.
annstr.
U Sdstern
Viktoriapark
Urb
Platz
Pfl
rgstr.
St
ans
g
platz
str.
Kreuzberg
Bergmannstr.
r.
ers
tr.
Arndtst
Grunewald
Ha
tr.
r.
r.
M
t
Bayerischer
Platz
.
U
o
n
s
tr
r
u
mentenstr.
S
zer
r
lle
e
H
e
a
W
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r
se
Str
C
nheide
ese
Berl
- Str.
.
Hermannrstr.
W
S
estr.
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str h m N
er
rnau
r.
Str.
Index
+39 pitrentanove
52
Aapka
52
Adlon Kempinski
30
Admiralspalast
11
Adria
14
Aigner
23
Alba Berlin
8
Alexa Centre
30
Alliiertenmuseum
39
Alpenstueck
21
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Alternative Berlin Tours
58
Altes Museum
28
Altes Zollhaus
49
Amar
52
Ankerklause
52
Anna Blume
46
April
33
Aufsturz
24
August Fengler
46
Austria
51
Babylon Mitte
14
Barcomi's Deli
24
Berghain
43
Bergmann Curry
51
Berlin, Berlin
40
Berlin City Tour
57
Berliner Dom
27
Berliner Hof Am Tauentzien 40
Berlinische Galerie
55
Berlin Locals
58
Berlin Plaza
40
Black Box Cold War
27
Blue Man Group
11
Borchardt
23
Brandenburger Tor
26
Brecht Keller
22
Brhan Museum
39
BR Volleys
8
Buchhandlung Moritzplatz 56
Caf am Engelbecken
54
Caf am Neuen See
36
Caf im Literaturhaus
36
Cafe Kalwil
36
Caf Rix
54
Caligari
53
Central Kino
14
Chan
50
Cicciolina
53
CineStar IMAX & Original
14
City Circle Buses
57
City Segway Tours
58
C/O Berlin
39
Cocolo
24
Computerspielemuseum
43
Crack Bellmer
43
Cupcake Berlin
42
Curry 36
51
Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28
Das Edelweiss
53
Das Stue
39
Deutsche Oper Berlin
11, 15
Deutscher Dom
27
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
28
Deutsches Historisches Museum
28
Deutsches Technikmuseum 55
Deutsch-Russisches Museum 43
Diekmann
35
S U I T A B L E
Die Schule
Dolden Mdel Braugasthaus
Dressler
Duke
Eastwood Berlin-Mitte
Einhorn
Eisbren Berlin
El Dorado
Ellington Hotel
English Theatre Berlin
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
Eventim
Facil
FC Union Berlin
Fernsehturm
First Floor
Fischers Fritz
Fleischlust
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
Francucci's
Franzsischer Dom
Freischwimmer
Friedrichstadt-Palast
Fchse Berlin
Fhrerbunker
Galander
Game Science Center
Geburtstagsklub
Gedchtniskirche
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer
Gemldegalerie
Glory Duck
Glck To Go
Golgatha
Gorgonzola Club
Grand Hotel Esplanade
Green Door
Grenander Morning Glory
Grner Salon
Gudrun Sjdn
Gugelhof
Habermeyer
Hackesche Hfe
Hamburger Bahnhof
Hard Rock Cafe
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
Hefner
Hekticket
Henne
Hertha BSC
Hilton
Hinterm Horizont
Honigmond & Garden Hotels
Hoppetosse
Hotel de Rome
Hugos
InBerlin Tours
InterContinental
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
Jolly
Jdisches Museum Berlin
Junction Bar
Kaffee Burger
Kamala
Kartoffelpfanne
Kaufbar
Kempinski Bristol
Keule
Kilkenny Irish Pub
45
54
35
35
24
36
9
36
40
13
24
11
23
9
30
34
23
45
47
36
27
54
12
9
27
54
56
46
38
28
28
42
51
54
53
40
37
37
25
30
45
43
14
29
34
56
37
11
49
9
30
12
31
52
30
35
58
39
58
22
56
55
25
22
49
42
39
41
25
Kimchi Princess
50
Kim Qui
50
Kinnaree Thai
50
Kino in der KulturBrauerei
14
Knese
33
Koka 36
11
Komische Oper
11
Konnopke's Imbi
45
Konzept86
56
Konzerthaus Berlin
11
Kookaburra Comedy Club
13
Kuchenkaiser
54
Kulturbrauerei
47
KunstHalle
29
La Forchetta
36
Le Petit Royal
35
Lutter & Wegner
23
Macondo
42
Mandala
31
Marriott
30
Martin-Gropius-Bau
56
Matrix
43
Mauerpark
47
Maximilians
21
Mein Haus am See
25
Memorial to the Murdered Jews
of Europe
27
MeMu Menschen Museum 29
Metzer Eck
45
Milchbar
54
MS Schiffskontor
58
Museum fr Asiatische Kunst 39
Museum fr Film und Fernsehen
29
Museum fr Naturkunde
29
Mutter Hoppe
21
Neues Museum
28
Neue Synagoge
26
Nikolaiviertel
26
Nola's am Weinberg
23
Olympic Stadium
38
Original Berlin Walks
58
Osteria N1
53
Otito
22
Ottenthal
34
Pagode
49
Palace
39
Panorama Caf
22
Panoramapunkt
30
Papagena
11
Paris-Moskau
23
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz 31
Pergamon Museum
28
Pizzeria i Due Forni
46
Postbahnhof Club
43
Potsdamer Platz
26
Precise Myer's
44
Quatsch Comedy Club
13
Reichstag
26
Reingold
25
Reinhard's
23
Renger-Patzsch
33
Restaurant Schlossgarten
33
Restauration 1900
45
Rice Up
53
Riehmers
51
Ritter Sport ChocoWorld
30
Roses
55
Roter Salon
25
Rotisserie Weingrn
21
Sachiko Sushi
Sage Restaurant
Sale e Tabacchi
Salon Schmck
Samowar
San Diego Steakhouse
Santiago
Sarod's
Savoy Berlin
Schall und Rauch
Schloss Charlottenburg
Schneewei
Schnitzelei
Schneberger Weltlaterne
Schwarzwaldstuben
Shakespeare & Sons
Slow Travel Berlin Tours
SO36
Soda Club
Sofitel Berlin Kurfrstendamm
Spielbank Berlin
Spindler
Sputnik
Staatsoper im Schillertheater
Stndige Vertretung
Stasi Museum
Stasi Prison
Suksan
Sushi Circle
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
Swera
Swisstel Berlin
Sylter Hof
tausche Taschen
Tempelhofer Freiheit
The Digital Eatery
The Harp
The Wall Museum
Tiergarten
Tipi am Kanzleramt
Topographie des Terrors
Traube
Trentasei
Union Jack
Van Long
Van Loon
Viktoriapark
VOX
Waldorf Astoria
Wall Panorama
Watergate
Week-End Club
Weihenstephaner
Weinstein
Weltrestaurant Markthalle
Westin Grand
Wild at Heart
Wintergarten Varit
Wohnzimmer
Wrgeengel
Yorckschlsschen
Yosoy Tapas-Bar
Zillemarkt
Zille-Stube
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
Zum Nussbaum
Zur Letzten Instanz
Zwiebelfisch
Zwlf Apostel
36
52
53
54
36
42
46
51
40
46
38
41
34
33
21
47
58
55
46
40
25
51
14
11
21
43
43
34
24
46
52
40
40
47
56
24
38
43
39
12
56
24
53
38
22
52
56
23
40
29
55
25
21
46
52
31
55
12
46
55
55
24
34
21
47
22
22
37
36
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