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PREPARATION PROCESS:
Exists to ensure that the textile has the right
physical and chemical properties to enable it to be
coloured or finished.
EXAMPLE:
Desizing, Singeing, Scouring, Bleaching
etc.
2-
COLOURATION PROCESSES:
Exists to provide the textile with colour
either for aesthetic reasons or for some
functional purpose determined by the end-use
of the product.
EXAMPLE:
Dyeing, Printing.
3-
FINISHING PROCESSES:
Exists to provide the textile with the
properties that the end-use demands and
which have not already been provided by any
earlier processes.
EXAMPLE:
Water Repellency, Flame Repellency, Antisoiling finish etc.
DEFINITION:
Pretreatment means any treatment, which is done before actual (dyeing and
printing) process. Textile pretreatment is the series of cleaning operations.
All impurities which causes adverse effect during dyeing and printing is
removed in pretreatment process.
AIM OF PRE-TREATMENT:
CONSTITUENTS OF COTTON:
As discussed earlier pretreatment is the series of cleaning operations. In
pretreatment all the impurities present in cotton are removed. Cotton fiber by
nature contains:
Cellulose
86.8%
Natural Impurities:
Oil and Waxes
0.7%
Pectins
1.0%
Carbohydrates
0.5%
Proteins
1.2%
Salt
1.0%
Water
8.5%
Colour Pigments:
Others
2.0%
Except cellulose and water all the impurities are removed in pretreatment.
(Size Material)
(Oil, Strains, Dust, Dirt)
(Oil, Wax, Pectins, Proteins)
(Naturally present in cotton)
Singeing
Desizing
Scouring
Scouring
Bleaching
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1-
FABRIC DEFECTS:
Oil, rust, stains, holes, damage selvedge and weaving faults like
floats and read marks etc.
FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS:
Width, length, yarn count, ends and picks per inch and fabric
composition.
2-
3-
STITCHING:
4-
SHEARING / CROPPING:
5-
SINGEING:
6-
DESIZING:
7-
SCOURING:
8-
BLEACHING:
Bleaching is the process in which we remove the colour pigments in
order to achieve the degree of whiteness.
9-
MERCERIZATION:
Mercerization is the optional process or in on the customer
requirement. Mercerization is done to achieve the luster, strength, more
absorbent etc.
Desizing
Scouring.
Heating Setting.
SINGEING
INTRODUCTION:
This is usually the first stage in pre-treatment; consist of destroying
by burning all the tufts, fibers and hairs protruding form the surface of the
material (yarn and fabric). There by giving it smooth and cleaning face.
Singeing is generally done o grey goods before any other treatment. The
fabric is singed on one or both sides by passing either over plates or heated
cylinder or by gas flame.
OBJECTIVES OF SINGEING:
Surface hairs trape air in the fabric when it is immerged in water. This means
that it takes longer time for water to enter the fabric, singeing therefore
indirectly helps to increase the fabric wet ability.
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METHODS OF SINEING:
Usually three types of singeing can be carried out:
1) Plate Singeing Machine.
2) Rotary Singing Machine.
3) Gas Singeing Machine.
1)
2)
PRE-REQUISITE
Fabric
should
be
completely
dry,
otherwise yellowish
colour with heating
take place on the
fabric.
POST-CARE
Used
water
to
extinguish
the
sparks.
3)
Gas Singeing is intended for single and double face singeing of fabric with
passes through the guide roller. Then in brushing zone which rotate in the sense
opposite to fabric to be singed. The brushes are placed in a special chamber from
which dust and fluf removed form the fabric are exhausted by a fan.
Then the fabric passes over gas burner with ceramics nozzles where
singing is covered out. Coming out of the gas singeing machine a box containing
water. This bath may also contain desizing agent. In this way after singeing we
can desize and batched the fabric.
DESIZING
INTRODUCTION:
The major portion of the size consists of
starch, wax and tallow. All these remain on the
warp yarn even after weaving the cloth. It is
necessary to remove the size from the cloth,
otherwise the hydrophobic of the wax and
tallow constraint the subsequent dyeing and
printing process.
Thus desizing is the term usually restricted to the process of removal of
starch size can be performed efficiently and completely if are taken to degrade
the starch in some way and to convert it to the product with a higher degree of
water solubility.
DESIZIN G
Size has to be solubility and the very steps in the process are as given below:
1) Impregnation the fabric with desizing agent.
2) Allow the time for the agent to the absorbed into the size and degrade or
solubilized it.
3) Wash out the degrade size material.
OBJECTIVES OF DESIZING:
To prepare the fabric for dyeing and printing by removing the coating of size
from the surface of the fabric.
The chemical required for desizing depends upon the nature of the size
applied.
1)
OXIDATIVE DESIZING:
Some oxidizing agents, particularly hydrogen peroxide and some persulphate will degrade. Starch will out serious attack of the cellulose as long as
reasonable care is taken with the process.
The fabric is impregnated with hot solution of oxidizer and batched up for
several hours or steamed for 20min at 100-105 oC.
Since hydrogen peroxide is used as bleach for cellulosic substrate as a
bleaching process would normally follow desizing but H 2O2 is used for desizing
with size of PVA at 9PH. It is reasonable to suppose that the two processes might
be combined into one. This is some time done, particularly where the amount of
size to be removed is hot large. However, a more common practice is to economic
on enzyme desizing process by using condition which are milder the removal of
size is then completed action of the hydrogen per oxide bleach.
HYDROLYTIC DESIZING:
Starch are the mixture of two carbohydrates.
(a)
Amylose
a complex branch.
The thickening power of starch is largely due to the amylopectin. These
compound are in soluble in water but can be solubilized by hydrolysis of these
polymers.
Hydrolysis is generally brought about by using one of the following processes.
(a)
Rot or Bacteria Desizing.
(b)
Acid Desizing.
(c)
Enzymatic Desizing.
C
O
CH 2
1:4 Amylose
C
C
C
O
Starch contain
19% amylose
and
81% amylopectin
C
C
C
C
H H
C
C
C H 2OH
2-
(a)
ROT DESIZING:
In this process, the grey cloth is dipped in a tank full of water for 24 hours
and a give temperature range of 25-40 oC. The bacteria present in water produce
enzyme, which react with starch and converted them into glucose unit, which are
soluble in water and on washing the fabric can easily be removed. This is slow but
economic process.
The process of acid steeping is also called as grey scouring. In this process
grey cloth is placed in a weak solution(0.5-1%) of H 2SO4 for 4-6hours at a
maximum temperature of 40oC starch become soluble in water.
(c)
ENZYMATIC DESIZING:
ENZYMES
(i)
(ii)
(iii)
Melt Preparation
Pancreatic Amylose
Bacterial Amylose
ORIGIN
Starch (Insoluble)
Dextrin (Insoluble)
Soluble Dextrin
Maltose (soluble)
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ENZYMES
CONCENTRATION
TEMPERATURE
PH
Melt Extract
3-20gm/litre
50-60oC
6-7.5
Pancreatic
1-3gm/litre
50-60oC
6.5-7.5
Bacterial
0.5-1gm/litre
60-70oC
5.5-7.5
SCOURING
INTRODUCTION:
Cotton is based on 90% of cellulose and the remaining portion consists of
impurities such as fats, waxes & organic compounds. The main impurities which
must be removed are fats and waxes which are insoluble in water thus decreasing
the water absorbency of fabric raw cotton contains:
Cellulose
86.8%
Natural Impurities:
Oil and Waxes
Pectins
Carbohydrates
Proteins
Salt
0.7%
1.0%
0.5%
1.2%
1.0%
Water
8.5%
Colour Pigments:
Others
2.0%
These are three major processes in scouring to remove impurities.
(i)
Soaponofication.
(ii)
Emulsification.
(iii) Solvent Extraction (Detergency).
These processes are discussed in detail.
(i) SOAPONOFICATION:
Soaponofication is the process in which fats are treated with caustic and
lead the formation of hydrophilic soaps (sodium salts of fatty acids).
CH 2 OOCH 35 C17
CH 2 OH
|
|
CH OOCH 35 C17 NaOH CH OH 3 (C17 H 35 COONa )
|
CH 2 OOCH 35 C17
|
CH 2 OH
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(ii) EMULSIFICATION
OR
SOAP
APPLICATION
IN
SCOURING:
Waxes present in the fabric cannot be removed in saponification. These
are esters of higher fatty alcohol & fatty acids similarly mineral oils, lubricants
oil etc cannot be converted into water soluble product by boiling with NaOH
solution. The process of emulsification is used in the scouring of cotton material
containing non-saponifated oil such product can be removed by emulsifier.
Thus the scouring solution should also contain an emulsifying agent in
addition to Sodium hydroxide and wetting agent ordinary soap (washing) is good
emulsifying agent.
PROCESS OF SCOURING:
For this purpose, a variety of equipment is available to process the
materials in different forms and by batch, semi-continuous and continuous
processes. The ultimate aim of the scouring is to make the material uniformly and
highly absorbent in a cost-effective manner so that there are no difficulties in
the later processes of dyeing, printing and finishing. Some of the more common
batch and continuous scouring machines are described below:
CONTINUOUS SCOURING:
ROPE SCOURING:
The most well known continuous rope scouring and bleaching machine is J
box because its storage/steaming chamber has shape of the letter J. For
scouring cloth is impregnated with caustic soda solution in a padder in
concentrations of 30 to 60 g/l with 6 to 10g/l of a wetting agent at 120%pick up.
The padded fabric is heated in a steaming tube to raise its temperature to about
95oC and then plaited into stainless steel heat-insulated J box. The fabrics pile
moves downward under gravity and cloth is removed continuously after a dwell
period of about one hour.
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Rope scouring in the J box is highly productive and economical as cloth runs
at a speed of 80 to 150 meters/min. However, it is not free from troubles and
warp-wise rope marks are often encountered that cause unsatisfactory dyeing
later. The heavy weight cotton and polyester/cotton blends are especially
susceptible to formation of the rope marks. A J box was developed in which the
fabric is fed, piled, stored and withdrawn in open width.
PAD-ROLL SYSTEM:
The wet desized cloth with 70% pickup is padded in open width for a final pick up
of 100% in the scouring liquor containing 4060g/l caustic soda and 10-15g/l of a wetting
agent. Sometimes part of caustic soda is
replaced with sodium silicate to obtain a
comparatively better whiteness.
The roll is gradually rotated for about
3 to 4 hours in the enclosed chamber at a
temperature of 95-98oC before washing off
the impurities in a washing range.
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BLEACHING
INTRODUCTION:
Cotton wax natural fats and added fatty
matter and other impurities from the fabric are
removed in desizing, and scouring process. But the
natural colouring matter present in cotton is still
present in the cloth. In order to obtain the white
cloth, the normal practice is to decolorize the
natural colouring material present in the fabric.
Thus the final bleaching process is essential for
obtaining a good white and this is done by
bleaching in different ways.
FOR EXAMPLE:
required, types of machine and next operation. General PH range is 10-11 or 10.511.5 during bleaching if PH reaches 9 then it is a danger level and at 7 PH the
bleaching is worse and causes extreme damage to the cloth. The PH value is
maintained by adding sod ash or by buffering agent. The suggested temperature
for hypochlorite bleaching is 37-40 oC. Generally reaction is accelerated with
increases of temperature water for bleaching should be soft and even hard water
can be used but should be free from Cu++ and Fe++. The time factor depends upon
the following consideration.
(a)
Concentration.
(b)
PH value.
(c)
Degree of Whiteness.
(d)
The type of machine used in bleaching.
Roughly for normal machine the time is 4-12hours. For liquor circulation it
is 2-2.5 hours. If the concentration is increased the time is 1-2hours.
ADVANTAGES:
12-
DISADVANTAGES:
12345-
H2O2
H+
+ OOH-
H2O2
H2O + [O]
(Desirable)
(Non-Desirable)
PROCESSES OF BLEACHING:
Hydrogen peroxide bleaching can be done by Batchwise, Continuous & Semicontinuous method.
BATCHWISE PROCESS:
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The bleaching chemicals are made up in a side tank. This about half filled
with cold water then the surfactant or wetting agent, stabilizer and caustic soda
are added with stirring. Stirring is therefore an absolute necessity any solid
should be predissolved. Finally peroxide is added and if required the
concentration of alkali and peroxide are determined by titration. The transfer
pump is started and the contents of the tank transferred to the machine, before
the temperature is raised to 85-95 oC and hold at that temperature for 1-2hours.
For jigger bleaching the chemicals would be added directly to the jig in the order
given.
For Kier bleaching, the transfer pump supplies the water piler and when the
kier is about half full, the steam to the kier heatest is opened to give a
temperature of 40-50oC and loading is completed. The temperature is raised to
65-70oC over 30min and the kier is rested for 30min at this temperature to expel
air. After raising to 80 oC and resting again the is closed and the temperature
raised and hold for 1-2hours at 95oC.
NaOH is used in case of H2O2 bleaching. This is used to bring the PH upto
9-10 because H2O2 become active at this PH or oxidation is start at this PH.
Stabilizers are used in bleaching for control the rate of oxidation of H 2O2.
CONTINUOUS PROCESS:
Most woven and increasingly, fabrics are bleached with hydrogen peroxide
by continuous method either in rope open width form. Most knitted fabrics
scoured and bleached in a single stage spiral rope processing machines such as
Kusters, Jemco but most woven fabrics are pad steam processed continuously in
three stages desizing, scouring and bleaching. As the weaving stages of such a
rate consume 75% of energy, much attention has been given combining process
stages to reduce energy demand and minimize capital investment in the scope for
combining stages depends upon the grey fabric quality.
Grey cloth is first impregnated with a chemical solution and squeezed for
white fabric 3-4% sodium hydroxide is used. The saturater has a set of squeeze
on the saturation of the cloth. The cloth from saturated passes and into the
steamer. After the cloth is uniformly heated then it goes into washer where it is
thoroughly washed. This process is done at 100 oC for 20-25min is steamer.
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SEMI-CONTINUOUS PROCESS:
The pad batch process consists of padding the grey fabric with a strong
solution of alkali and hydrogen peroxide and storing in batch form for 2-24hours
depending on the storage temperature. In recent years interest in cold bleaching
has increased as it provides a low energy preparation route with low capital
investment, applicable to both woven and knitted fabrics. Cloth can be
impregnated with the bleach solution on standard stainless steel pad mangles (or
even jigs) but for regular production by this method an efficient open width
saturated is recommended, simply because high pick is difficult to achieve on grey
fabric. Cold pad batch bleaching requires:
(i)
Control of pad batch concentration and temperature preferably 25-35 oC.
(ii)
Greater than 80% liquor pick up.
(iii) Fabric storage without uneven drainage or surface drying.
(iv)
Washing off at a minimum temperature of 95 oC.
Environmentally acceptable.
Decomposition products are oxygen and water.
Excellent storage stability.
Compatible with most dyes and FBAs.
Give versatile processing (continuous, semi-continuous and batchwise)
Produces a stable white fibre with and absorbency.
Allows route shortening by combining stage (desize with scour, scour with
bleach and desize with scour and bleach).
No need for severe precleaning processes.
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1234-
MERCERIZATION
INTRODUCTION:
Mercerization, the treatment
off cotton with a strong caustic
alkaline solution in order to improve
the luster, hard and other properties,
was names after its discoverer, John
Mercer, and has been in use for
sometime. It has been seeing an
increase in application recently.
MERCERIZTION PROCESSING:
If cotton is dipped into a strong alkaline solution such as lithium hydroxide,
the fibres will swell and shrink. If the fibres are placed under tension while in
this swollen state and then rinsed with water, the alkali will be removed and a
permanent silk like luster will result.
EFFECT OF MERCERIZATION:
Improve Luster.
Increase ability to absorb dye.
Improve reaction with a verity of chemicals.
Improve stability of form.
Improve strength/elongation.
Improve smoothness.
It has been shown that the increase in the luster occurs because of an
effect.
The cotton fiber do convoluted.
The cross-sectional shape changes.
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3-
Tension.
4-
Time.
(2) TEMPERATURE:
High degree of luster is attained at temperature 18-20 oC. As the
temperature is increased the quality of luster is adversely affected but on
lowering the temperature no improvement in the luster is obtained.
(3) TENSION:
For acquiring better luster the material must be stretch to its original
dimension (both in warp and weft direction during mercerization). If the material
is allowed to shrink during mercerizing then quality of luster will be impaired on
the other hand if the material is stretched more no improvement in luster is
achieved.
(4) TIME:
The optimum time for mercerizing is 30-60 seconds by increasing the
duration of time no applicable improvement in the quality of mercerization can be
achieved but if the time limit is less than 30 seconds in the quality of
mercerization will be improved.
HOT
MERCERIZATION
1- SWELLING
Higher Fibre Swelling.
Slow Swelling.
2- RELAXATION
Slow relaxation.
Fast relaxation.
3- SHRINKAGE
Higher residual shrinkage.
4- SURFACE
Surface swelling irregularity.
20
5- FIBER PACKING
Tight Fibre packing harder handle NaOH
Loose Fibre packing softer handle NaOH
diffusion into yarn obstructed.
diffusion into yarn upholder.
6- LUSTER
A few strongly swollen (round) fibres in Significantly less strongly swollen fibre
the surface of the yarn interior less throughout the yarn cross-section interior
lustrous.
equally lustrous.
METHODS OF MERCERIZING:
There are THREE main methods.
1Chain Mercerizing.
2Chain less Mercerizing.
3Slack Mercerizing.
1-
CHAIN MERCERIZING:
2-
CHAINLESS MERCERIZATION:
3-
SLACK MERCERIZING:
The overall effect is that we no longer see than or at least not as.
DEFINITION:
The treatment of textile with fluorescent brightening agent is carried out
to improve the quality of whiteness.
APPLICATION OF OBA:
OBAs are available for application on to all types of substrate.
There are anionic FBAs for application to cellulose in the presence of
added salt. Anionic types for application to nylon or wool in the presence of acid
disperse types for application to polyester and so on.
PROPERTIES OF FBA:
In most of the cases, the light fastness of fluorescent brightening agent in
not good on protein and cellulosic fibre it is usually between 1 & 2 and reaches 3 in
a few cases.
Fastness to washing is also only moderate only polyamide fibre there are
selected product with light fastness of 4, on polyester 7 and for acrylontrile 4-5.
When Fluorescent Brightener on wool fade as a result of exposure to light
a pronounced discolouration is frequently developed. It has been suggested that
this is caused by decomposition product of the fluorescent compound.
FBA are no substitute for bleaching but they improve the white and also
allow reduction in the amount of bleaching agent required. Thus diminishing the
risk of degradation of protein. They are frequently applied after bleaching.
Cotton
Acetate & Tri-acetate
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
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