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trip savvy

Grand Anse, a
two-mile stretch
of sand south of
the capital city
of St. Georges, is
Grenadas most
popular beach.

G
renada isn t nicknamed
the Spice Isle for nothing its
breezes are generously scented
with the cloves, allspice, cinnamon and
nutmeg that flourish on its hillsides.
This lovely island, perched on the
southeastern corner of the Caribbean,
still has a slightly bantam, frontier feel,
an authenticity that makes it a great
pick for travelers who dont want a
beachy vacation trimmed with duty-free
purchases and casino forays. A Reagan-
led military incursion 27 years ago now
seems ancient history, and the island
offers Americans a warm reception; but
then, it always has.
Grenada possesses a surfeit of
modestly priced accommodations, many
located on or near Grand Anse, the
islands main beach. Most restaurants
and water sports are found in the south
too, which helps minimize transporta-
tion costs. You can explore much of
the rest of the island via minibus the
farthest distance costs under $3, making
this a cheap scenic tour. Even getting
there becomes more affordable this June
with Deltas launch of weekly nonstop
service from New York-JFK.
Be sure to allow at least a day to
explore the islands northern reaches
there are small hidden coves tucked
around the scalloped coastline, while
the ruffled interior beckons with
hiking opportunities. A stroll through
St. Georges, Grenadas supremely
picturesque red-roofed capital, reveals
macduff everton

a spectacular harbor ringing the steep


inner slopes of an extinct, submerged
volcanic crater. Grand Anse, the islands
two-mile-long sweep of white sand, is affordable: grenada

Its a Family Affair


Intimate local inns make a Grenada stay a steal.

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trip savvy

home to the 37-room, family-managed and a balcony facing the sea. Amenities two-bedroom Spanish-style apartments
Siesta Hotel . Resting about 300 yards include a restaurant, a pool, and free use in a two-story building, all with air con- Grenada
from the beach, this well-run bargain of snorkel equipment and kayaks; Grand ditioning. Youll find a tennis court and O N $ 1 5 9 A DA Y *
offers simply furnished but attractive Anse is a two-minute stroll downhill swimming pool, and the beach is fair for
and clean air-conditioned rooms, (another fine beach, Morne Rouge, is sunning; a jetty leads to swimming and HOTEL Average $112 in low season
($148 high)
BREAKFAST // La Bou-
ranging from standard hotel-style units five minutes away). The Flamboyant has snorkeling. Send a shopping list ahead langerie, Grand Anse; $10 for eggs, toast,
to studios and apartments. All have good discounts for singles and special of your arrival, and your fridge will be bacon and hash browns; 473-444-1131
a phone, minifridge, safe and small offers on stays of four nights or longer. stocked at check-in. LUNCH // La Sagesse Nature Centre,
St. David; $14 for fish or chicken sandwich
balcony. A pool and informal restaurant A couple of miles east of Grand Anse Tucked into an Atlantic cove, and fries; 473-444-6458; lasagesse.com
and bar round out the facilities. Check is Lance aux Epines, a quiet residential sheltering a quiet beach trimmed with DINNER // De Big Fish, True Blue; $19
directly with owner Nima Anvar for area punctuated with foreign embassies sea-grape trees, Lance aux Epines Cottages for grilled fish with sides; 473-439-4401
ACTIVITY // Day trip to Carriacou:
discounts on extended stays. and a few upscale inns. Coral Cove is a is another well-established family-run $60 for the round-trip ferry transfer
A sprawling view of Grand Anse is the low-key 11-unit complex with friendly, inn. The 11 accommodations are found GETTING THERE // American flies
key attraction of the 68-room Flamboyant long-standing management. Least within a two-story building set back from Miami and San Juan; Delta flies
from New York-JFK. TAXI // From
Hotel & Villas, named after the famed flow- expensive are five cottages situated on from the beach or in lawn-wrapped airport to Grand Anse or Lance aux
ering tree and set at the southwestern a grassy, breezy hillside overlooking a one-story cottages; all of the one- and Epines, $20 RENTAL CAR // Indigo
end of the beach. Choose from standard calm Atlantic bay; each has a full kitchen two-bedroom units are spacious (the Car Rentals from $63 per day (including
tax), with discounts for multiday rentals;
hotel rooms or suites with kitchenettes and living-dining room, though no air smallest is 900 square feet) and have 473-439-3300; indigocarsgrenada.com
decor is straightforward tropical, and conditioning. For those who want to full kitchens. There are few on-site Drive on the left; a local drivers license
each room has a coffee maker, a minibar spread out, there are both one- and facilities beyond the front desk, but six is $12. TAXES // Hotels add a 10
percent service charge and 11 percent
tax; car rental tax is 5 percent; departure
tax is $20. INFO // 473-440-2279;
grenadagrenadines.com
grenadas a great pick for travelers who dont want a beachy vacation
*per person in low season ($177 high),
trimmed with duty-free purchases and casino forays. based on double occupancy and
excluding airfare, car rental, airport
transfers, tax and service charges
(US$1 = 2.70 XCD)

The city of St. Georges shimmers a few miles from the 60-room Flamboyant Hotel & Villas.
Opposite, from left: Colorful watercraft bob in St. Georges harbor; expressions of national GRENADA HOTELS // Blue Hori-

pride in Grenada in the green, red and yellow of its flag are never in short supply. zons Garden Resort, Grand Anse; from
$155 ($210 high season); 473-444-4316;
grenadabluehorizons.com // Coral
restaurants and a dive shop are within or stroll the 300 yards to Grand Anse, Cove, Lance aux Epines; from $110
($145 high season); 473-444-4422
walking distance. The rates include light where the hotel maintains a collection coralcovecottages.com // Flamboyant
laundry service on request, and a cook of chaise lounges on the beach. Hotel, Grand Anse; from $147 ($197 high
can be arranged to prepare inexpensive season); 866-978-8013, flamboyant
.com // Lance aux Epines Cottages,
meals in your room. OUT + ABOUT Laid-back to the nth degree, Lance aux Epines; from $110 ($155 high
Carriacou (pronounced CARE-ee-uh- season); 877-444-4565, laecottages
WORTH A SPLURGE Just off from Grand coo) is the largest of the Grenadines, the .com // Siesta Hotel, Grand Anse; from
$80 ($95 high season); 473-444-4646,
Anse, 32-room Blue Horizons Garden string of idyllic outposts lolling between

opposite, Left: Donald Nausbaum/Getty images; right: cory silken


siestahotel.com
Resort is infused with gentle West St. Vincent and Grenada. Carriacou is
Indian ambience that fosters a sub- worth a visit for anyone who breaks out
dued setting for couples and young in a cold sweat at the sight of personal
families. Sprinkled around six acres watercrafts or theme parties; instead,
of well-tended lawns and gardens, the snorkeling and hiking to deserted
cottage-style rooms include generously beaches lead the list of activities for
sized studios and suites with balconies, day-trippers. Get around using the local
all with full kitchens (supermarkets are bus $1 to the farthest spot on the
nearby). Free Wi-Fi is available in some island or rent a 4x4 for the day (about
rooms, and some verandas boast a sea $50) from Ades Dream Guesthouse,
view, making them great spots for relax- next to the ferry dock, allowing you
ing with coffee or a book. Theres an to explore castaway coves and sleepy
open-air restaurant, with less expensive beach bars. Get there on the twice-daily
dining options not far away. By day, ferry from St. Georges; the trip is 90
lounge at the attractive swimming pool minutes each way. DAVID SWANSON

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