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Emulsion Perception
Chris Dederen, Jennifer Donahue and Cornelis Verboom
Croda, Edison, NJ, USA
The perception of a
product and belief that it
delivers on a promise
is most important.
However, if the sample size is
large enough, one can group these
descriptors and look for a relationship
with the chemistry and physics of
the formulation. Many such attempts
have been made in the past 40 or more
years and can be found in literature,2
but there remains a need for a bridge
between qualitative consumer language
and clearly defined sensory attributes
based on the chemistry and physics of
a formulation. Understanding the quantitative or even qualitative impact of
ingredients is a complex task, especially
given the complexity of formulations
Data Collection
ASTM Standard 1490-03, a longestablished descriptive analysis
technique,3 was used to qualify and
quantify model and market formulations. This involved a trained panel
of 10 ( 2) individuals, who assessed
emulsions under strictly controlled,
standardized conditions. Numerical
scores on 30 sensory attributes, e.g.,
spreadability and gloss, were collected during all steps of the products
usefrom appearance in the package,
pick-up on the fingertips and rub-out,
to after-feel on the skin up to 20 min
after application. These attributes were
scored on a scale from 0100, each
with internal reference standards, such
as mineral oil or petrolatum, to reduce
panel variability. The sets of numbers
generated by this protocol represent the
sensory chromatograms of formulas but
these profiles use a technical language
that, while understood by trained
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Suppliers/Products Referenced
a The Sensification model is a registered trademark of Croda,
www.crodausa.com.
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a)
b)
Suppliers/Products Referenced
Figure 4. PCA analysis of the emulsions in Figure 3 split by the
attributes: a) initial appearance, pick-up and rub-out; and b)
after feel, immediate and 20-min
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a)
b)
Suppliers/Products Referenced
c Aracel LC (INCI: Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sorbityl Laurate), and
d Cithrol DPHS (INCI: PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) are
products of Croda Inc., www.crodausa.com.
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Suppliers/Products Referenced
e Crodamol STS (INCI: PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) is a
product of Croda Inc., www.crodausa.com.
a)
b)
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the nature of the oil phase; i.e., when matching the required
HLB of the oil phase becomes necessary, and oil and emulsifier
are no longer independent variables in the model.
Nevertheless, from the examples given, it is clear that a
change of emulsifier can modify the sensory properties much
more effectively.
Conclusion
Here, the authors present a methodology to construct simplified 2D sensory maps from complex sensory data. The PCA
mapping technique can be used to match sensory properties
of emulsions and ingredients to sensory benchmarks. Systems
with oil in the external phase, such as w/o emulsions, were
notably less defined and require further study. Regardless,
while the obtained PCA data representation is abstract, as
shown here, it can be converted into a practical tool for o/w
emulsion formulation.
References
Send e-mail to chris.dederen@croda.com.
1. L Rigano, Sensory in cosmetics, Cosm & Toil 127(9) 628634 (2012)
2. BW Barry and AJ Grace, Sensory testing of spreadability: Investigations of
rheological conditions operative during application of topical preparations,
J Pharm Sci 61, 335 (1972)
3. G Civille, The Spectrum Descriptive Analysis Method, ASTM International
(May 1992)
4. Principal component analysis mathematics function explanation, available at http://cosmic.mse.iastate.edu/library/pdf/pcainterpretation.pdf
(Accessed May 6, 2013)
5. ME Parente, A Gmbaro and G Solana, Study of sensory properties of
emollients used in cosmetics and their correlation with physicochemical
properties, J Cosmet Sci 56(3)175 (2005)
Suppliers/Products Referenced
f The Sensory Selector Grid is part of the Sensification kit
provided by Croda Inc., www.crodausa.com.
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