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TEXTILE INDUSTRY
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Indonesia
Preface
The conservation of energy is an essential step we can all take towards overcoming
the mounting problems of the worldwide energy crisis and environmental degradation.
In particular, developing countries are interested to increase their awareness on the
inefficient power generation and energy usage in their countries. However, usually only
limited information sources on the rational use of energy are available.
The know-how on modern energy saving and conservation technologies should,
therefore, be disseminated to governments and industrial managers, as well as to
engineers and operators at the plant level in developing countries. It is particularly
important that they acquire practical knowledge of the currently available energy
conservation technologies and techniques.
In December 1983, UNIDO organized a Regional Meeting on Energy Consumption
as well as an Expert Group Meeting on Energy Conservation in small- and mediumscale industries for Asian countries. During these meetings, it was brought out that, for
some energy intensive industries, savings up to 10% could be achieved through basic
housekeeping improvements, such as auditing and energy management.
The rational use of energy calls for a broad application of energy conservation
technologies in the various industrial sectors where energy is wasted. One of these
energy intensive industrial sectors to be considered to improve efficiency through the
introduction of modern energy conservation technologies is the textile industry.
In the textile industry, appreciable amounts of energy could be saved or conserved by
regulating the temperature in the steam pipes, adjusting the air/fuel ratio in the boilers,
and installing heat exchangers using warm waste water.
Currently, UNIDO, with the financial support of the Japanese Government, is
carrying out a regional programme on the promotion and application of energy saving
technologies in selected Asian developing countries. This programme aims at adopting
these innovative energy conservation technologies, developed in Japan, to the conditions
of developing countries.
In this programme, we are considering that the transfer of these technologies could
be achieved through:
(i) Conducting surveys of energy usage and efficiency at the plant level;
(ii) Preparing manuals on energy management and energy conservation/saving
technologies, based on the findings of the above survey;
(iii) Presenting and discussing the manuals at seminars held for government officials,
representatives of industries, plant managers and engineers;
(iv) Disseminating the manuals to other developing countries for their proper utilization
and application by the industrial sector.
The experience obtained through this programme will be applied to other
programmes/projects which involve other industrial sectors as well as other developing
countries and regions.
UNIDO has started this programme with the project US/RAS/90/075 -Rational
Use of Energy Resources in Steel and Textile Industry in Malaysia and Indonesia.
The present Handy Manual on Textile Industry was prepared by UNIDO, with the
cooperation of experts from the Energy Conservation Center (ECC) of Japan, on energy
saving technologies in the framework of the above mentioned UNIDO project. It is
based on the results of the surveys carried out, the plant observations and the
recommendations and suggestions emanating from the Seminars on Energy
Conservation in the Steel and Textile Industries, held under the same project in January
1992 in Jakarta, Indonesia, and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The manual will not only be
interesting for government and representatives from industry, but it is, in particular,
designed for plant-level engineers and operators in developing countries as a help to
improve energy efficiency in the production process.
June 1992
CONTENTS
17
20
- i -
- l -
-12-
re-examine whether the light source is utilized in the most efficient way and take
electricity saving measures, if necessary, such as reducing the number of lamps
in use by switching from global lighting to local lighting as much as possible.
-13-
-14-
3.1.5
In each production process of the textile industry, the heating and cooling of gases and
liquids as media of heat are frequently required. This is done through heat exchange
between different fluids, and in order to avoid contamination or chemical reaction due
to their direct contact, heat exchangers are used to carry out indirect heating and
cooling. It is important to use the right heat exchanger for the intended purpose.
3.1.6
Energy saving is an operation to grasp the actual situation of energy use in a factory
precisely and quantitatively and to carry out improvement measures in order to
rationalize and economize on it. While measuring instruments are needed to obtain
quantitative data, it will become more and more important to investigate the use of
sophisticated measuring instruments based on recent developments in mechanical and
electronic engineering, combined with automatic control systems.
-15-
centerpiece measure, along with time management, labor saving, natural resources
saving and space saving. It has been frequently pointed out that, along with management
techniques described earlier, the improvement and development of process-specific
techniques on energy conservation greatly contribute to the rationalization of production.
Here, process-specific techniques relating to energy saving are summarized for each
specialized technical field.
reaction conditions
(2) Polymerization process
Reduction in polymerization time by means of high efficiency catalysts,
polymerization methods, etc.
-16-
3.2.2 Spinning
Regarding technological trends in spinning, moves towards high speed and large
package size have been investigated in order to achieve labor saving through as much
automation as possible. As a result, energy consumption has been gradually
increasing, as shown in Figure 24. However, in view of price competition with
overseas companies, further labor saving as well as energy saving is desired.
Table 3 compares a modern and a traditional factory in terms of electricity
consumption for each plant/operation.
Table 3 Electricity Consumption per 1000 Spindles for Each Plant/Process
(2) Air-conditioning
Although as an ideal working environment a room temperature less than 30C is
desirable, in cases where the working environment has been drastically
improved in most other aspects with work load also reduced, a slightly increased
room temperature may be permitted. As has been reported, there was a case
where raising the regulated temperature from 30C to 32C resulted in a
reduction in the electric power demand of a carrier with a contract demand of
some 8,000 kW by 190 kW. Also, there are many instances of seasonal
switch-over from a damper to a pulley as a means of readjusting the blown air
volume; this is in order to recycle the air sucked from the processing machine
for each operation through a filter back to the same room, and it is therefore
necessary to recheck the locations of fans for suction and returning.
-18-
3.2.4 Weaving
As is shown in Figure 24, rationalization in fabric production is such that while
various improvements in machinery aimed at high speed operation and labor saving
have been carried out, the amount of energy use per unit of the product has gradually
increased. Regarding loom design, high productivity shuttleless looms such as water
jet, rapier and gripper types have successfully been introduced, with air jet models put
in practice in the production area of industrial fabric material. The amount of energy
consumed by each loom during its weaving operation can be estimated from the
motor capacity and weaving speed.
Conventional shuttle looms are based on the weft-insertion method, incorporating a
shuttle zooming to and fro with a large inertia mass (approx. 400) and mounted with
extra weft, and they also use energy consuming pirns as an integral part of the
machine. For this reason, the shuttleless looms contribution to energy saving cannot
be regarded as too high.
-19-
On the other hand, as a large amount of energy is consumed in sizing, as one of the
preparatory operations for weaving, the introduction of foam and solvent sizing
-20-
-2l-
This clearly illustrates the importance of the development and utilization of processspecific techniques, apart from the already-described management technologies.
Table 5 shows that the implementation of production rationalization eventually relates
to energy conservation. The following are brief explanations of typical examples.
Table 5
Production
Rationalization
Mechanism
Effect
Technique
Time saving
(1) High speed processing of unit operations Reductions in energy use
(2) Reduction in waiting time between unit Per unit operation through
an improvement in
operations
(3) Elimination or merger of unit operations productivity
Labor saving
(1) Implementation of automation
Reductions in the
(2) Strengthening colorimetric management frequency of reprocessing
through a reduction in the
failure rate
Energy saving (1) Reduction in bath ratio
Reductions in energy cost
(2) Reduction in treatment time
(3) Reduction in margin of temperature rise
(4) Re-examination of drying method
(5) Switch to non-water-based operations
Utilization of systems
Conservation
(1) Utilization of continuous bath
of natural
residual heat
resources
Space saving (1) Construction of modern factories
Improvements in factorywide energy saving effects
-22-
38
47
56
40
60
80
0.75
1.5
2,400
3,600
4,800
19.200 (16,300)
28,800 (24,500)
38,400 (32,600)
38,400 (34,500)
57,600 (51,800)
76,800 (69,000)
57,600 (54,700)
86,400 (82,000)
115,200 (110,000
Water (m3)
Consumption Steam (kg)
rate
Electricity (AC motor) (kWh)
NaOH
10.5
14.0
19.0
1,075 (82.691)
1,500 (115.381)
1,850 (142.311)
21.0
38.0
50.0
288
432
576
Water
0.0044
0.0039
0.0040
material required
Steam
0.4479 (0.0341)
0.4167 (0.0321)
0.3854 (0.0301)
for treating ma of
Electricity
0.0088
0.0106
0.0104
fabric
Amount of energy
(kcal)
337.2
322.0
302.8
NaOH
0.12
0.12
0.12
Notes 1. The bracketed entries under Production Turnout show approximate figures which would
result from the respective operation rates.
2. The bracketed entries under Steam show equivalent fuel consumption figures which would
be needed if a boiler with a evaporation ratio (= evaporation/fuel consumption) of 13 was
used.
3. The energy values were obtained from Figure 24.
(Kazuo Shiozawa: Textile Wet Processing Technology, p.48, Chijin Shokan, 1991)
unit operations according to the usage of the product and considering the
characteristics of the coexisting synthetic fibers, it becomes possible to
achieve energy conservation. Table 7 shows an example.
-23-
Table 7
Number
of Units
Processing Characteristics
(Kazuo Shiozawa: Textile Wet Processing Techniques, p.50, Chijin Shokan, 1991)
-24-
lower bath ratios such as the jigger, wince, beam, pad roll and jet flow types
should be selected as far as the circumstances permit. Figure 16 graphically
shows the relationship between the bath ratio and the production cost for the
wince dyeing of a cotton fabric with a reactive dye (bright red, medium shade).
It is easy to see that the bath ratio has a direct influence on the production cost,
10: 1
Bath ratio
ratio of a wince could decrease from 25:l to 17:1, and for a beam a
reduction was possible from 15:1 to 12.5:1, or even down to as low as less
than 10:l where the axis of the beam was made off center with respect to
the container body, thus increasing the batch-up volume as shown in (B).
More recently, low bath ratio processing machines which are built in with the
above mechanisms have been developed and put on the market.
-25-
Fabric
Filling material
-26-
Spray system
Figure 18 Typical Low Add-on Machines
(Transfer Padding Mangle: P.F.Greenwood, Dyer, 153 25 (1975))
(Triatex MA System: P.T. Nordan: Am. Dyestuff Reporter, 69 35 (Aug, 1980))
(Spray System: H.B.Goldstein.H.W. Smith, T C C, 12 49 (1980))
- 27 -
The foam processing technique is used for the preparatory, dyeing, textile
printing and finishing processes, with confirmed effects of promoting
energy conservation, but it is desirable to examine details of usage and
other practical conditions prior to application.
b) Horizontal
equipment
c) Vacu-foam equipment
(Monforts make)
Figure 19 Typical Foam Applying Equipment
(a&b) T.F.Cooke:TCC,1513(May1983))
(c) R.D.Leah: J. Coc. Dyers Colourists, 98 422 (1982))
- 28 -
Figure 20
(Kazuo Shiozawa: Textile Wet Processing Technologies, p.50, Chijin Shokan, 1991)
- 29 -
- 3 0 -
-31-
- 32 -
conservation the use of continuous baths which utilize the residual heat of
the system are particularly important in view of energy conservation.
If the continuous use of a processing bath is introduced with the necessary
conditions being met, thus allowing only those materials consumed in the dyeing
process to be replenished, in particular with the unit operations designed for the
batch method, it will greatly contribute to the recycling of heat energy in addition
to achieving the conservation of natural resources and the rationalization of
countermeasures to water waste. In the dyeing process with a high heat
consumption, the use of the continuous bath deserves particular attention
Note Factory A: Although it has the same types of machines as Factory B, it has introduced a
drying operation for each unit operation, emphasizing flexibility.
Factory B: Considers the production rationalization resulting from continuous processing./
Factory C: It has the same production capability as Factory B, but has reduced the
preparatory process related to mercerizing.
- 34 -
- 35 -
500
3,ooo
zoo0
l,ooo
4,Qm
1966
J7.5
3.3
3.4
j1.9
4.2
9.9
iI ~
Notes
1. The graphs were drawn using data from the Tabulated Industrial Statistics.
2. Figures inside the bar graphs represent shares for the respective fiscal years.
1965
8.6
31.4
:
4
\\
1965
22.9
8.1
1'
.#
.*
20.7
.. .'
I
1
I
18.1
i2.a
I
1989
12.0
I'
1975
/
/,
/*
15.3
Knitting
C!f.?;yl Spinning Weaving
(Fabric Production)
Note
28.5
,R'
I*
/* .c
/.':
.*'
.
I' ,'
,,
10.4
Dyeing
1 ,'
12.7
,0'
JO.7
13.0
//
8.8
23.0
12.4
13.2
I
:
I
14.3
,/
32.4
Sewing
14.4
Others
Graphs were drawn using data from the Industrial Statistical Table. Sewing combines
various textile manufacturing including clothing manufacturing.
unit
Fiber
kg/person/month
Production
VlO,OOO/person/month
Spinning
kg/person/month
1960
1965
1970
1973
1975
1980
1985
1990
507
672
1,035
2,097
2,759
2,237
4,776
6,021
a.264
14.2
24.7
42.4
90.8
106.8
101.9
231.9
286.1
326.5
294
375
479
613
734
726
1,166
1,419
1,655
YlO,OOO/person/month
14.9
18.1
24.0
36.2
60.1
64.9
110.2
134.6
131.0
Fabric
m2/person/month
917
1,073
1,215
1,603
1,900
1,703
2,464
2,943
3,337
Production
YlO,OOO/person/month
8.8
9.7
12.8
25.3
41.8
47.7
74.3
91.4
137.7
Dyeing and
m2/person/month
4,907
5,450
7,569
7,431
9,379
9,964
12,028
15,424
16.502
Finishing
YlO,OOO/person/month
7.0
11.3
15.1
27.1
42.6
57.3
82.4
104.0
119.3
Notes 1
2
3
4
Since quantities and sums were taken from the Annual Report on Textile Statistics and the
Tabulated Industrial Statistics, respectively, they do not necessarily correspond to each other.
Fabric only represents woven materials and does not include knitted ones.
1973 is the year when the oil shock broke out and as a result textile consumption reached
its maximum.
Sums for 1990 are the actual results for 1989.
- 37 -
tion
Field
Energy
Coal
(kg)
-
Fuel Oil
VI
Fabric
Spinning
Dyeing and Finishing (1000 m*)
Production
(1000 mZ)
(0
Fuel Oil
Electricity Electricity*i 1 3lectricit
Gas
------L Coal
WW
WW
(k-W
(kg)
0
7-F
11
1,795
37
48
2,099
156
60
134
73
1955
2,905
1960
2,942
2,404
248
1965
3,029
660
1,200
2,138
196
76
33
144
1970
2,771
96
1,375
2,459
247
121
2,762
2,851
301
147
1975
3,174
1,362
1,493
2,944
337
156
8
-
210
1973
1980
2,367
890
2,865
339
171
1985
2,145
205
461
2,802
366
178
119
16
1990
2,244
481
313
3,125
395
201
127
23
205
199
155
Notes 1. Data were taken from the Annual Report on Textile Statistics
2. * shows categories which have alternative entries in the Tabulated Textile Statistics, such as
18.9% and 33.1% for spinning and fabric production for Fiscal 1980 as the ratio of fuel cost
to the total energy cost respectively, but omitted from this table as their corresponding
figures for absolute energy consumption are not known.
3. Gas combines the liquefied petroleum and city gases represented separately in Table 2, and
shows their total in volume.
- 38 -
Converting each form of energy use required to produce a unit quantity of the
product, as shown in Table 9, to its corresponding calorific value, Figure 24
graphically illustrates changes over time of the total of these values. It can be
seen from the graph that while the oil shock which took place in 1973
encouraged a move away from oil and increased a relative dependence on
electricity, comprehensive energy saving measures were also successfully
implemented.
Although the achievement of significant energy saving can be observed in the
fiber production and dyeing divisions, where energy consumption ratios are
particularly high, it is also apparent that their energy consumption has actually
been on the increase since 1985.
Fiber production
Synthetic fiber (1 kg)
..
1955
1975
1965
1905
1990
Fiscal year
Notes
1. The graphs were drawn using data from the Annual Report on Textile Statistics
2. Energy was calculated with the following conversion ratios:
Electricity: 2,000 KcaVKWh
Coal: 7,400 Kcafikg
Fuel Oil: 9,400 Kcalll
Gas: 9,900 Kcal/m3 as the average of the following:
Natural gas: 9,900 Kcal/m3; City gas: 10,000 Kcal/&;
3. 10 d of 100 g/m2 Weight shirfng can be woven from 1 kg of yarn.
Spinning
(U million)
Fabric production
(U million)
Dyeing
(V million)
Sewing
(V million)
m Material cost
1. The graphs are drawn using data from the Tabulated Industrial Statistics.
2. Figures for Fiscal Years 1969 and 1973 involve businesses with 20 or more
employees, with the rest covering those with 30 or more employees.
Figure 25
-4o-
Given this phenomenon along with the steadily increasing energy use in the
spinning and weaving fields, it can reasonably be assumed that rationalization
efforts are reaching their limits in view of the current production structure
designed to cater for the needs for multi-line, small-volume production from the
fashion clothing market. Figure 25 summarizes and graphically illustrates
changes in cost compositions for the production of major textile products, as
shown in Table 13, after the oil shock. It can easily be seen that the influence of
the energy component on the total production cost has been more pronounced
after 1973, while at the same time effects of energy saving efforts are also
noticeable. The gradual increase in energy consumption in spinning and fabric
production and the upward trends after 1985 in fiber production and dyeing as
shown in Figure 24 are both translated into a decrease in terms of the ratio of
energy cost to the total, illustrating that comprehensive energy saving efforts
have been made by the companies concerned.
-4l-
- 42 -
and examples of the corresponding clothes. Table 12 shows the results of calculations to
find the weight of clothes required under average climatic conditions in summer and
winter in three Japanese cities.
0.1
0.3
0.5
0.8
1.0
1.5
3.0 clo
Table 12
1. The clo values are shown assuming an average skin temperature of 33.5C.
2. One unit of clo value is 0.155C/W/mz.
3. The required weight values are calculated with Hanadas formula for female clothing:
Y = 0.00103W - 0.025
Where Y: Clo Value
W: Total Weight of Clothing
(Japan-Korea Committee for the Investigation and Research of Industrial Structures: Consulting
Engineer May 1991 Special Edition, p. 35)
Notes
- 43 -
Although the ultimately required quantity is difficult to determine, the per capita
annual textile consumption (kg/person) can be estimated through multiplying the above
weight by coefficient a (obtained from the service life of a textile product and its number
of units demanded per annum).
5.2 Fashion clothing
Although it is even more difficult to define the amount of fabric consumed in fashion
clothing, a market which has satisfied the demand for minimum basic clothes has a
tendency to shift its emphasis towards textile products with stronger fashion overtones
and grow rapidly. This is illustrated by Figure 27, showing chronological changes in
textile consumption in Japan and the worlds major countries, and Figure 28, a
graphically expressed correlation between per capita textile consumption and GNP.
Notes
1. The figures inside the bar graphs with and without brackets are the shares of chemical
and synthetic fibers in the total consumption, respectively.
2. The broken-line portions of bar graphs represent the consumption of textile goods to
be used as industrial materials.
3. The sources are the Annual Statistics on Textile Goods for Japan and FAO data for
other countries, respectively.
- 4 4 -
Figure 28
(Apparel Handbook, p 193, 1988 Ed, Society for Structural Reform in Textile Industry)
- 45 -
- 46 -
- 47 -
- 48 -
As has been frequently pointed out throughout its development, the Japanese
textile industry has a unique organizational structure consisting of groups of
independent companies where all companies in a group belong to one of the
above-mentioned specialized technical fields and operate in a horizontal
specialization configuration. Table 13 shows a comparison and summary of the
major indices of these company groups, classifying them in accordance with
their specialized technical fields.
From these indices, common company characteristics for each group may
emerge.
Namely, in terms of business size, the fiber production and spinning
subdivisions are in contrast with the rest of the textile industry where relatively
large numbers of small businesses coexist. In addition, these groups of small
companies can only stay in business by relying on the supply of abundant cheap
labor, exhibiting a legacy of the textile industrys past as a labor intensive
industry, even on its path towards modernization. Table 1 compares the energy
consumption shares of various specialized technical fields and it can be seen that
energy consumption is relatively high in the fields of dyeing and finishing, fiber
production, spinning, weaving and clothing manufacturing.
As for water consumption, the share of the textile industry in the entire
manufacturing industries is 5.2% for fresh water and 1.1% for sea water.
Considering the fact that most of this water is used for easy-to-recycle
temperature control and cooling purposes, the industrys total water consumption
cannot necessarily be regarded as high. However, as is widely accepted, the
dyeing and finishing division is placed in a special position in that its water
consumption is mainly for processing and washing purposes.
- 49 -
Notes: The data were taken from the Tabulated Industrial Statistics (Industry and Land, Water Volumes).
a) Businesses with four or more employees are covered.
b) Sums are shown in units of million Yen.
c) Cost compositions are based on data for businesses with 30 or more employees.
d) The Business Ratio is the ratio of those with 30 or more employees in all businesses with 4 or more employees.
e) The statistics for water consumption am shown after calculating from the 1989 data. (businesses with 30 or more employees)
6. Conclusions
(1) There is no panacea for achieving energy conservation in the textile manufacturing industry.
(2) With the actual implementation of an energy conservation program, it is
important to grasp the current level of energy consumption and its actual
conditions in detail, set goals (energy consumption and corresponding cost), and
achieve the goals through a company-wide effort as far as possible.
(3) In the textile manufacturing industry, it is important to thoroughly understand
that, depending on the trend of the market, the company is targeting, consumer
requirements for the textile products to be supplied differ, thereby urging the
implementation of energy conservation measures which are relevant to the
production of the goods that suit the market.
(4) Therefore, it is necessary to expect that, when multi-line, small-volume
production type high value-added goods are produced, energy consumption may
increase rather than decrease with production rationalization, in contrast with
mass-production type goods.
(5) When differentiated goods are produced, the share of energy costs in the overall
production cost should be given importance rather than energy consumption.
(6) It is reasonable to consider that ultimately desired energy conservation
promoting techniques will depend on the development and practical application
of innovative technologies in each specialized technical field.
- 5 1 -