Abstract

The social need for expression in this new age especially in the field of
architecture has seen some recent developments; although architecture and fashion

seem to be independent of each other, architecture deals with the constructed

environment while fashion is the motivating factor behind the dress making
business, they share in common similar ideas and principles which are based on
structure, form, art, science, technology and aesthetics. A study of the connection
between fashion and architecture would be investigated in this research and to
what extent the relationship between fashion and architecture has affected each
other and in what kind of pathways, has the effects benefitted the designers
studying in fashion institutes, on which a comparative case study would be
conducted.

Introduction
FASHION
Throughout history, fashion has been a means of identifying an era and making a
reasonable determination of individual social status and personality. Although
social pressures influence style choices, personal fashion decisions are a matter of
self-esteem and individual comfort. Certain fashion elements create a look that
instantly identifies a particular culture or indicates membership in a subculture. It
is about the societal and individual styles of clothing and accessories that reflect
the current nature of the world.

As said by Blair Waldorf, Fashion is the most powerful art there is. It's
movement, design, and architecture all in one. It shows the world who we are
and who we'd like to be.
Fashion is a language which tells a story about the person who wears it. There are
many reasons we wear what we wear.

Protection from cold, rain and snow: mountain climbers wear high-tech
outerwear to avoid frostbite and over-exposure.

Physical attraction: many styles are worn to inspire chemistry.

Emotions: we dress up when were happy and down when were

upset.

Religious expression: Orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and
Islamic women cover every part of their body except their eyes.

Identification and tradition: judges wear robes, people in the military

wear uniforms, brides wear long white dresses.
The apparel oft proclaims the man.
-Shakespeare, Hamlet
Fashion is something we deal with everyday. Even people who say they dont care
what they wear choose clothes every morning that say a lot about them and how
they feel that day.
One certain thing in the fashion world is change. We are constantly being
bombarded with new fashion ideas from music, videos, books, and television.
Movies also have a big impact on what people wear.
Fashion is a state of mind. A spirit, an extension of ones self.

EVOLUTION OF FASHION

Fashion, by definition, changes constantly. Fashions are a social

psychological phenomena common to many fields of human activity and
thinking. For some, modern fast-paced changes in fashion embody many of the
negative aspects of capitalism: it results in waste and encourages people as
consumers to buy things unnecessarily. Other people, especially young people,
enjoy the diversity that changing fashion can provide, seeing the constant change
as a way to satisfy their desire to experience new and interesting things.
It is amazing to see how the different events in history have influenced and
changed the way people have dressed throughout time. Some of the most popular
fashions are classic, they can stand the test of time and hardly ever "go out of
style", only experiencing minor changes to keep up with the trends. Other clothing
items could be considered "fads", styles that are only popular for a short season
and then never worn again. Often certain fashion trends are dependent on the
tastes of particular groups of people or cliques and are usually associated with
social status or cultural preferences like the type of music a person likes. Fashion
can also be influenced by world events such as war or the economy. For example,
during World War II, people were only allowed a certain amount of fabric so they
were forced to create simple outfits that were practical enough for wartime duties.
From the 1900s to the 1990s, popular fashions reflected the mood of each decade
and showcased changes in society as the styles of clothing and accessories evolved
with the times.
1900s-1920s
By the end of the 19th century, the horizons of the fashion industry had generally
"broadened," partly due to the more stable and independent lifestyle many well-off
women were beginning to adopt and the practical clothes they demanded.
However, the fashions of the Belle poque still retained the elaborate, upholstered
style of the 19th century. During the early years of the 1910s the fashionable
silhouette became much more lithe, fluid and soft than in the 19th century. Simple
felt hats, turbans, and clouds of tulle replaced the styles of headgear popular in the
20th century. Two of the most influential fashion designers of the time
were Jacques Doucet and Mariano Fortuny. Changes in dress during World War I
were dictated more by necessity than fashion. As more and more women were
forced to work, they demanded clothes that were better suited to their new

activities. Social events had to be postponed in favor of more pressing

engagements and the need to mourn the increasing numbers of dead, visits to the
wounded, and the general gravity of the time meant that darker colors became the
norm. A new monochrome look emerged that was unfamiliar to young women in
comfortable circumstances. By 1915 fashionable skirts had risen above the ankle
and then later to mid-calf.

1920s-1940s
The 1920s brought fashion into the modern era. Referred to as the Roaring
Twenties, women began to wear skirts and dresses that were comfortable rather
than constricting. And men dressed in more casual suits rather than the formal
wear that was the norm. The most defining style of the 20s was the Flapper.
Flappers were women who dressed in short skirts, had a bobbed haircut, smoked,
and showed their discontent with the mainstream society. Actress Norm Talmadge
was known as your prototypical Flapper. Here we see her wearing a Flapper Dress,
showing her arms, wearing heels which was also a new style to emerge in the 20s.
1930s known as the Stylish Thirties was the return of a more contemporary lady
like look whose main stylistic feature for this period was the emphasis on the
shoulders. The 1940s continued this look while experimenting with more synthetic
fibres, the introduction of nylons and the use of the zipper. Bathing suits were also
a huge trend as traveling became part of North Americans Lifestyle. Fashion icons
included actors Fred Astaire and Lauren Bacall.

1950s-1970s
The 1950s was the Glamour Decade. The designs of Christian Dior was largely
influential to the style of the period as his designs came after the war and
emphasized womens figures something that hadnt been done in a while. Fashion
trends of the 50s included the ever famous Audrey Hepburn little black dress,
shaped fitted jackets, A line skirts to emphasize a womens waist, as well as
hairstyles which included the beehive and the classic tight curls. Icons included,
Marilyn Monroe, Brigette Bardot, Carey Grant. With the rise of new music and
Italian inspired mod fashion the 1960s was a time for change in the fashion world.
Tons of trends emerged included the mini skirt, bare legs instead of stockings,
usage of lace, and hats for both women and men. Major fashion icon was skinny
model Twiggy. With the Hippie movement in the late 60s and traveling into the
early 1970s, fashion became a large statement of an individual. With the summer
of love, light airy fabrics, tie die and baby doll tops were huge trends. Late 70s
again was influenced through music. Disco fashion was introduced with high
platforms, flashy colours and tight clothing for both women and fashion. Icons of
this era were Farrah Fawcett, and John Travolta.

1980s-present
The 1980s were full of emerging trends that came and went. From big shoulder
pads to even larger hair, the 80s were all about making a large statement.
Accessorizing also became a huge trend in the 80s. From earrings, to hair pins, to
fishnet stockings accessories were what made the outfit, especially it was flashy
and bold in colour. A major icon was of course Madonna, whose fashion style was
copied by thousands. From the 1990s to the present, we see new trends forming
but we also see a huge comeback of many of styles from the previous fashion
decades. Rock music of the 90s had an influence in style including the creation of
the grunge and emo scene. New trends also include dark denim jeans especially
the famous skinny jeans, high fashion gym wear, the flat shoe and the scarf or
pashmina that goes with every outfit not just your outdoor wear. However the
present has definitely become a collection of trends from previous decades. Ray
ban sunglasses, Audrey Hepburns tiny black dress, 80s accessories, hippie
inspired bohemian dresses, the 1950s hairstyle and so many more.

FASHION DESIGNING
Fashion design is the art of application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty
to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social
attitudes, and has varied over time and place. Fashion designers work in a number
of ways in designing clothing and accessories such as bracelets and necklace.
Because of the time required to bring a garment onto the market, designers must at
times anticipate changes to consumer tastes.
"Designers conduct research on fashion trends and interpret them for their
audience". They attempt to design clothes which are functional as well as
aesthetically pleasing. They consider who is likely to wear a garment and the
situations in which it will be worn. They have a wide range and combinations of
materials to work with and a wide range of colours, patterns and styles to choose
from.
Objectives of Fashion Designing
Fashion designers sketch and design clothing items and collections. Designers
may work independently or for boutiques, manufacturers and other fashion
retailers. All designers, regardless of where they work, have virtually the same
goals and objectives in their careers.
Anticipating Consumer Trends
A fashion designer can't sell or profit from her designs if the public isn't
interested in buying them. Successful designers make predicting consumer
trends a primary objective in their work. Designers study current consumer
trends and identify target demographics that are likely to purchase their
clothing. For example, some designers create clothing for teenage girls, while
others focus on business professionals. Designers use their findings and
knowledge of their target demographic to determine which designs are likely to
appeal to consumers in the future.
Creating Clothing Designs
Before a dress, suit or sweater can go on display in a store, it starts out as a
sketch in a designer's idea book. Designers spend most of their time thinking of
themes and design for their clothing collections, and may use computer software
to assist them during the design process. Every designer's primary objective is
to design clothing that will sell, and designs may undergo multiple revisions
before a designer settles on a final design. Some designers are involved in the
construction of their designs and may work directly with production teams,
while others may simply supervise the production process and trust the sewing
to other professionals.

Marketing Clothing and Accessories

A designer can't sell his clothing if the public never sees his creations.
Marketing is a huge priority for fashion designers, whether they're selfemployed and selling their clothes online or trying to find work at an
international fashion retailer. Aspiring designers starting out in their careers
spend a considerable amount of time marketing themselves and their products to
attract public attention. Established designers continue marketing themselves
through advertisements in print and online.
Forming Networking Connections
A fashion designer can never have too many friends, as every professional she
meets in the fashion industry could help further her career. Fashion designers
make a point to form strong, lasting connections with a variety of other fashion
professionals. These include fabric manufacturers and trade show runners, who
supply the fabric and embellishments designers need to see their designs come
to life. Designers also aim to form connections with creative directors for
magazines and other publications so they can share their creations with a wider
audience.

HOW ARCHITECTURE INFLUENCES FASHION?

The relationship between fashion and architecture is not a particularly oblique
one. Both are based on structure, shape and prettying up basic necessities clothes and shelter. The relationship between fashion and architects is less
discussed. Yet even a glance at your garden-variety modern architect proves this is
a group who are just as style-conscious as fashion designers. Fashion and
architecture are both based on basic life necessities - clothing and shelter.
However, they are also forms of self-expression - for both the creators and
consumers. Both fashion and architecture affect our emotional being. For
example, fashion refers to the actual articles one wears, but style is how you put it
together and how confident you feel when you are going about your daily life.
Similarly, our moods are affected by our living and work conditions - sunlight,
cleanliness and comfort. On a deeper level, fashion and architecture both have less
to do with luxury and design, but everything to do with feeling comfortable in
your own skin and in your habitat.
Over the past centuries, the connections between architecture and fashion has
gotten robust by the understanding of the fact that both fields share in common
similar ideas and principles which are based on structure, form, art, science,
technology and aesthetics. Hence, their connection is inclined to constant changes
in styles and taste based on the architect and designer. Fashion has a huge
influence on architecture and vice versa.

The various trends between fashion and architecture are as a result of the
following:
Design TheoryBoth architecture and fashion have in common the concept of design theory.
Individuals refer to design as a problem resolving process. Problems with clothing
caused by the designer need to have a resolved aesthetics. This solution may have
a connection with the human body in terms of design lines, colour, fabrication,
proportion and pattern.
The concept of design in architecture is the solution to the environmental problems
surrounding us. Architects deal with design situations related to the surrounding
environment.
Creating a solution is the basic concept of design theory present in both fields.
ArtBoth architecture and fashion have in common the idea of art which acts as the
foundation for both fields. Therefore without art there would not be fashion or
architecture in the first place. Art defines fashion and architecture thus creating an
identity for individuals in both professions. Fashion designers and architects can
be seen as artists who generate pieces of art. Art, science and technology are
connected with one another thus they affect each other with a debatable boundary
amongst themselves. Architecture is also seen taking elements of fashion design as

concepts and inspiration, the elements of fashion design includes the idea of
wrapping, folding, weaving, pleating and draping. Sometimes the form and
structure of the architectural building itself can be a source of inspiration to
fashion designers.

ScienceImprovements in science go beyond improving the quality of our lives, thus the
belief in art and science by diverse cultures are the two most important aspects of
life. These two aspects centuries past, were united together allowing science to be
seen as a natural philosophy connected with art and both represent religion and
truth. Both science and art value creativity which proposes innovation,
improvement and change over what exist through the use of abstract models to
comprehend the world. As a result one of the new materials which have found its
way on fashion catwalks and architecture is the media faade. This faade is
produced with small LED lights and can photograph anything the designer wants.
In architecture the LED light when applied to the building faade reflects natural
light during the day and during the night it gives different colour scheme with the
aid of a computer program.

TechnologyTechnology is a physical object which allows the users to see and feel them. The
influence architecture has on fashion has gotten more visible with the development
in technology. These influences are visible in the materials used in architecture
such as the use of metals as a building material. Metal as a material has been in
existence in architecture over the past centuries and is still been in use till date.

Case Study

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, NEW DELHI

Introduction
The National Institute of Fashion Technology, a premier academic institute of design,
management and technology, aims at establishing the benchmark for the quality of
professionals that go into the fashion industry. The Institute provides comprehensive
and state-of-the-art infrastructure and equipment to impart both practical and
theoretical training. The facilities and services offered to the students allow them the
freedom to experiment and generate creative ideas.
Lively and vibrant campuses are complemented with facilities that equal the best in
the world at NIFT. Creative architecture and spaciousness defines all NIFT buildings,
which house fully equipped lecture rooms, design studios and laboratories, resource
centres, activity centres and hostels. The education structure emphasises hands-on
experience through practical set-ups and state-of-the-art technology.
PROJECT : NIFT, New Delhi
OWNERSHIP: Ministry of Textiles, Government of India
ARCHITECT: Stein, Doshi and Bhalla
SITE AREA: 11,560 sq.mt (3 acre)
BUILT UP AREA: 13,570 sq.mt (including basement)
LOCATION: Hauz Khas, New Delhi
YEAR OF COMPLETION: 1986

Location
The institute is situated in the Hauz Khas institutional zone. It lies on the way to
Asian Games Village from green park. Access is from north east and south west side

of the campus. Site is irregular in shape and is surrounded by classical dance

institute, Hauz Khas housing, Gulmohar park.

The main access is from the Mehrauli Road which goes from AIIMS to Qutab Minar.
It can also be accessed from the Khel Gaon Marg which goes to the Asian Games
Village, surrounded by Hauz Khas Apartments, Spastic Society building and the
Classical Dance Institute.

Building
The building covers almost the entire site leaving very less green area. The plan
follows the site boundary with a setback of 6m maintaining its character. The
openings are designed such that they maintain a visual unity in their form and
proportion. Academic clusters have been grouped together to form units comprising
class rooms, labs, common lobby, and service spaces.

Orientation and Structure

The building is aligned with its long sides along NW and SE axis, facilitating good
exposure to the sun and breeze, at times causing glare. Different blocks of building
complex are placed according to the site lines. All the peripheral building lines are
parallel to the site lines. Openings for light and ventilation have been sacrificed for
aesthetic considerations than climatic comfort.
This complex is based on frame structure - square module has been followed up.. The
roofing is done with waffle slabs (1.7mx1.7m) thus providing a column free space of
6.85 sq.m The external thickness acts as adequate sun protection for the windows,
providing insulation.

Site Planning
Flat land with artificial contours
Proper segregation of functions as building blocks are places in certain set of zones
which is determined by the function character of the building block.
The planning revolves around the two courts- the sunken cover with a stepped kind
and the amphitheatre.
Although apart from the zonal green there is not any substantial green area to be
landscaped, the institute gives a feeling of richly landscaped environment.
Two types of circulation pedestrian and vehicular. An inner road leads to the main
car park just outside the main entrance.
The entry to the campus is from two sides- Front and back.

Zoning
The site is basically divided in to three basic zones:

 Academic block are similar in plan and in function also, occupies the left portion
of the site.
Administrative block along with canteen and library is in right hand side.
The Hostel block is placed right at the back of the site.

Building Layout
Different blocks acquire different shapes and forms depending upon the functions
they are accommodating. There is permeability of the blocks, due to accessibility
from all the sides. Building blocks are concentrated around the sunken court thus
generating activity and creating a lively environment.

Ground Floor Plan i

First Floor Plan ii

Second Floor Plan iii

Entrance Plaza and Foyer

Third Floor Plan iv

The double heighted gateway gives way to the academic as well as administrative
block reached by a series of steps. The Foyer is a series of steps with seating at
various levels from the entrance plaza giving an informal atmosphere to the area. It
leads to the reception and also opens out of the sunken courtyard.

Academic Block
The whole complex forms a vibrant composition. Academic blocks are connected
through different systems of circulation overlooking the central court. Facilities have
been provided in the areas joined together in the form of a cluster, comprising of
lobby, lecture rooms, labs and toilets.

Facilities

Lively and vibrant campuses are complemented with facilities that equal the best in
the world at NIFT. Creative architecture and spaciousness defines all NIFT buildings,
which house fully equipped lecture rooms, design studios and laboratories, resource
centres, activity centres and hostels. The education structure emphasises hands-on
experience through practical set-ups and state-of-the-art technology.
Create at Design Studios & Techno Labs
The design studios on campus offer ample opportunity to students to experiment and
innovate, while the laboratories provide hi-technology work areas covering real-time
aspects of the industry.
High Quality Lecture Rooms
Well-equipped classrooms use advanced teaching methodology, designed for highly
interactive sessions.
IT Savvy Education
The success of fashion professionals rests on their ability to integrate Fashion and
Information Technology in a meaningful way. IT support is a critical feature at all
NIFT centres and the computer labs are equipped with state-of-the-art hardware and
software.
Resource Centre
The National Resource Centre at New Delhi and the Resource Centre at each NIFT
centre are pillars of information and knowledge management. Each Resource Centre
has an integrated collection of print, visual and creative material resources: the only
systematically documented source of information available in India for study of
international and contemporary Indian fashion. The Resource Centres also provide
information services to the design community, industry practitioners and
entrepreneurs.
The collections at the RCs include:
Books and periodicals
National and international fashion and textile journals
Audio-visuals
International collections of YSL, Chanel, Armani, Christian Dior, Dolce
& Gabbana, etc.
Indian collections of Ritu Kumar, Hemant Trivedi, Rohit Bal, Sunit
Verma, etc., and collections of NIFT students
Textile collections
Services offered:
Reference Service
Online Public Access Catalogue (OPAC)
Bibliographic Service
Indexing Service
Circulation service.
Reprographics Service.
Colour Service.

Conference Halls
The Institute houses spacious conference/seminar halls that serve as perfect meeting
grounds for presentations, interaction and discussions.
Showcase
The amphitheaters and auditoria at NIFT centres are ideal for student presentations
and collection showings.
Recreation Zone
The Student activity clubs, namely, Cultural & Dramatic Club, Sports, Adventure &
Photography Club, Literary Club and Environment & Social Service Club organise a
wide spectrum of entertainment, sports and leisure activities on a regular basis. The
NIFT campuses have ample space to host events, allowing students to pursue their
individual interests and work towards social concerns.
Chill-out!
A variety of food and a friendly atmosphere make the cafeterias ideal for students to
relax and interact with their peers.
Health Care
Medical aid is provided on the campus. A doctor and nurse are available to take care
of general and specific ailments. A psychologist is also available on campus to
counsel the students.
Hostels
NIFT provides residential accommodation at all centres. Permanent hostel facilities
are available within the campus. All the hostel premises, including the ones being run
by hiring private residential accommodation, are provided with round the clock
professional security, a doctor on call and hostel wardens. Recreation facilities like
T.V., magazines, some indoor and outdoor games are also available at the hostels.

Amphitheatre

The amphitheatre has a total seating capacity of 300 students and the area covered by
it is 319.35 sq. mts.

Material used in the building

Structure - R.C.C and brick walls.
Cladding - Random rubble stone masonry on some part of the plinth, walls in some
places, imported float glass used as a special material as a non-reflecting glass used
as a complete wall, steel frame screened with reflected glass, and use of vibrant
colors in the interiors spaces.
Floor Finish- Block granite and white marble check flooring in reception hall, Kota
green and Jaisalmer yellow in corridors, plain cement floor finish in classrooms and
laboratories, chip flooring in exhibition hall, stone in open spaces.

Faade Treatment- The exterior although uniformly finished in grey-colored grit,

the interiors come as a surprise, with composition in white, grey and greens of the
court reflected in the glass wall.
Windows- Jharokhas of traditional architecture and new materials and expression,
creating an interesting blend.

Landscaping
The institute gives a feeling of richly landscaped environment. Site boundary is lined
with deciduous and evergreen trees. A series of high and low platforms, soft and hard
landscaping have been used in the amphitheatre court. In surrounding areas of kund,
soft landscaping is done and it is paved with cut outs for basement lighting.