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WALL
FRAMING
This text introduces a variety of subject matter related to Building and Construction, at
a trade level.
It outlines wall and ceiling framing terminology, framing members, placement of
members and methods of bracing in relation to wind loadings.
Setting out of wall frames for timber and brick veneer structures is covered, including
the structural connections between members.
The unit also covers calculation of opening sizes, framing quantities and costs.
Note: Only timber framing is dealt with in this unit.
A comprehensive Glossary of Terms is included at the end of the text, which provides
a detailed description of trade terms, technical content and some trade jargon.
WALL FRAMING
WALL FRAMING
INTRODUCTION TO FRAMING
A frame may be described as being a structural framework of two or more members joined
together to form a fabricated unit, which provides strength for a building and fixing for other
materials.
The individual members of a frame perform specific functions such as supporting other
Timber brace
(Optional)
Corner studs
Blocking
Common stud
Door
studs
Noggings
members, separating other members, prevent other members from twisting or to simply provide
PLATES -
These are the horizontal members, which form the top and bottom of the frame,
and are separated by the studs. The bottom or vermin plate is usually out of
50mm thick unseasoned material or 45mm thick seasoned material.
The top plate is of the same section size as the bottom plate for conventional
roofing, however its thickness is increased to 75mm for unseasoned and 70mm
for seasoned when the roof system is trussed or a 2nd storey is added.
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The extra thickness compensates for the additional loads transferred to the external walls by the trusses or additional frames. Trusses are designed to span the
full width of the building to be supported on the external walls only.
Alternatively, the top plate of the external walls may be doubled; i.e. 2 x 38mm
plates, to provide adequate support where the trusses are not supported directly
over a stud.
Thickened
plate
Double
plate
STUDS -
These are the vertical members placed between plates, which provide the
height for the wall and transfer the loads from the top to the bottom plates.
Typical sizes used in F5 to F8 Grades are from 75 x 38mm to 100 x 50mm in
unseasoned timber and from 70 x 35 to 90 x 45mm in seasoned timber.
They may simply be used to separate the plates, common studs, or be used for
specific purposes such as door and window studs or secondary jamb studs.
Note: It is usual for door and window studs to be a minimum of 50mm thick
for sawn timber and 45mm thick for thicknessed timber.
TRIMMERS - These are the relatively short horizontal members fixed between window sills
and door heads, often referred to simply as sill or head trimmers. They are
usually of the same section size as the bottom plates and are not designed to
carry great loads; therefore they would not normally be longer than the width
of a standard door opening, when used for heads. Where openings are wider or
carry excessive loads a larger section size member would be used, which is
known as a lintel.
TRIMMING
STUDS -
These are short infill studs, which run between trimmers and plates or are used
to block out the back of a narrow lintel. They may also be referred to as Jack,
soldier or short studs.
NOGGING -
These are horizontal members cut between studs to keep them straight, equally
spaced and prevent them from twisting. They are usually of a smaller thickness
than the studs, i.e. 35 or 38mm, to save cost, as they are not considered to be a
structural frame component.
They may also be fitted on edge in a continuous length by being cut-in on one
side, flush with the studs, for the length of the frame. This type is of a smaller
section size, i.e. 75 x 25mm, and may be referred to as a ribbon or strip
nogging. Other common terms used for noggings are noggin, nog and dwang.
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WALL FRAMING
LINTEL -
'C' Section
'Z' Section
Fig. 8.3 Patent metal lintels used for framing
BRACING - Frames are braced to provide lateral stability, which prevents racking in the
individual frames and throughout the whole-framed structure. Braces are fitted
to the frames before they are erected, but are not nailed off. This allows the
frames to be plumbed and straightened before they are made rigid.
There are several bracing systems used for both timber and metal wall frames as
follows:
Diagonal timber bracing 50 to 75mm wide x 19 to 25mm thick battens are
checked in flush with the face of the studs and nailed off on each stud. This
method is very strong but time consuming to fit;
Diamond bracing similar to diagonal bracing but it is placed in the shape
of a diamond. It may be timber or metal;
Perforated metal angle bracing this is fitted in a similar way to the
diagonal timber bracing except it only requires a saw cut, the thickness of
the metal, to allow it to be fitted hard against the edge of the studs. This
method is quick and easy to fit. It is strong in tension but tends to buckle
when in compression if there is only one brace in the wall. Also, it has a
very sharp edge and must be fitted facing down to avoid possible injury
during assembly and erection work;
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Flat metal or hoop iron cross bracing provided it is crossed over, it gives good holding
power and is quick and easy to fit. Most flat metal bracing, used for timber and metal
frames, is fitted with a compression clamp to allow for adjustment and squaring of the
frames. This is now the most common method used for bracing large walls and panels;
WALL FRAMING
Sheet bracing
Panel length
Fig. 6 Type A sheet bracing up to 2kN
TABLE 1
Guide for Sheet Bracing
MATERIAL
Plywood
Hardboard
GRADE/
TYPE
MIN. THICKNESS
(mm) for
STUD SPACING
450
600
F8
F11
F14
F27
7
4.5
4
3
9
7
6
4.5
RD
GP
5.5
6.4
5.5
6.4
PANEL
LENGTH (sheet
width)
NAIL SIZE
(mm)
900
2.8 x 30
150
300
1200
900
2.8 x 25
100
300
NAIL SPACING
(mm)
Edge
Intermediate
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This identifies the geographic area within Australia where differing weather
conditions occur. They range from very mild and stable to severe tropical
cyclonic regions as described in the table below:
TABLE 2
Regions in Australia
REGION
A
B
C
D
Terrain
Category -
LOCATION
DESCRIPTION
Occurs over the majority of inland These areas are classified as being
Australia and Tasmania.
Normal with low wind gust speeds
up to 50 m/s.
Occurs on the north coast of NSW These areas are classified as being
from Corrindi and runs close to the Intermediate with increasing wind
coastline around to Broome in WA. gust speeds up to 60 m/s.
Also the mid to lower east coast of
WA and the Islands north of Cape
York.
Occurs from Bundaberg in QLD These areas are classified as having
along the coast across to Carnar- Tropical Cyclones with high wind
von in WA.
gust speeds up to 70 m/s.
Occurs from Carnarvon in WA These areas are classified as having
along the coast up to Port Head- Severe Tropical Cyclones with wind
land.
gust speeds up to 85 m/s.
DESCRIPTION
WALL FRAMING
FRAME CONSTRUCTION
PLATES
The size of plates will depend on the spacing of studs, floor joists, rafters or trusses, single or
double storey, stress grade of the timber and the species of timber used.
The majority of wall framing is constructed of Radiata pine, which is seasoned and thicknessed
and does not require the plates to be housed to take studs. Housing plates to take studs is only
necessary if rough sawn materials, such as Oregon and mixed hardwoods, are used. The
housing provides a constant plate thickness so all the studs may be cut to the same length,
which ensures the overall height of the frame remains parallel.
a
b
b
a = Amount that is gauged
to be left on.
b = Approximately 10mm.
But varies if plates are not
of uniform thickness.
Uniform wall height
b
a
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JOINING PLATES
When plates are thicknessed and butt jointed,
they may be connected using patent metal
connectors. These connectors may be in the
form of a Gangnail type or a Nail-plate
type.
Nail plates
Plates butt
jointed
Top plate
Extension of
gable roof
Solid Blocking
Studs
Bottom plates
WALL FRAMING
STUDS
The size of the studs depends on the spacing, stress grade and timber species used. The most
commonly used stud spacings, for brick veneer construction, are 450mm and 600mm centre-tocentre. If the walls are clad with other sheeting, then the studs should be placed so the sheets
join on the centre of the stud edge. The studs should be kept flush on the lining side of the walls
for brick veneer construction and centred on the plates for timber framed construction.
CALCULATING STUD LENGTH
The finished floor to ceiling height of the rooms governs the length of the studs. The regulation
height for habitable rooms, unless otherwise specified, will be 2400mm.
Stud length = Overall frame height amount left on both plates, when,
A2 Clearance min.
12mm to truss
Stud length
Thickened
plate
Stud length
Frame height A
A1
=
=
2413
105
2308mm
Stud length =
[(2400 + 13) - (40 + 40)] - 12
= [2413
=
10
80]
- 12
2321mm
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Stud length
Frame Height B
Stud
length
=
=
2458
2378mm
80
Floor/Ceiling 2 400mm
Thickened
plate
Stud length
Frame height A
C1
C2
Clearance min.
12mm to truss
Stud length
=
=
2413
115
2298mm
= [2413
70]
=
2331mm
- 12
11
WALL FRAMING
2094
2094
SECTION
ELEVATION
Calculation:
= 22 + 2040 + 2 + 20 + 10
= 2094 mm
Fig. 13 Door height opening
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Example 2:
Formula = thickness of flooring + underlay, vinyl and clearance + door height + door head clearance
+ jamb thickness + clearance above head
2108
SECTION
ELEVATION
Fig. 16 Opening details
2108
Calculation:
= 20 +15 + 2040 + 3 + 20 + 10
= 2108 mm
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WALL FRAMING
DOOR WIDTH
The width of the opening is based on the width of a stock door 820mm wide, jamb thickness
and clearances. An allowance of 10mm is provided on each side to provide room for
adjustment of the jamb if the frame opening studs are badly bowed or out-of-plumb.
Example 3:
Formula = width of stock door + (2 x door clearance) + (2 x jamb thickness) + (2 x clearance for packing)
886 Opening
10
10
Calculation:
20
20
Door + clearance
= 820 + 6 + 40 + 20
= 886 mm
Lintel
Eaves
lining
10mm
Fig. 18 Detail of window heads in-line and clearance under frame lintel
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WINDOW WIDTH
The position of the window will be pre-determined on plan in most cases, but may need some
adjustment to allow for the best position in relation to brick bond to avoid unnecessary cutting
and/or odd length bricks resulting.
The opening should be the overall size of the window frame plus 10mm clearance on either
side to allow for bowed or out-of-plumb window studs.
Note: Some frame designers make the opening an additional half brick wide. This allows the
secondary jamb studs, and the window, to be moved to suit brick bond. Once the correct
position is located the secondary jamb studs are nailed off and trimmed to the bottom plate.
This method may be useful where many windows occur in one wall of brick veneer
construction.
Window Stud
Timber reveal
10mm Packing
Nogging
Window Size
25
mm
Face brickwork
Brick Sill
Fig. 19 Horizontal section through a sliding Aluminium window in brick veneer
25mm
15
WALL FRAMING
STRAIGHTENING OF STUDS
Poor stacking, partial or uneven seasoning may lead to studs bowing, twisting or forming a
spring, which is a bend along the edge. These malformed studs may still be used but will
require some additional attention before the wall frames are finished and ready to receive
linings.
Once the wall frames are up and the ceiling frame is complete, the temporary braces are
removed from the walls. At this stage it may be necessary to go over the frames to complete the
fitting of blocks, loose or missing noggings and to straighten any studs with excessive spring.
This procedure is especially critical in the wet areas (bathroom, laundry, toilet, kitchen) so that
wall tiles may be laid onto a straight surface and to allow kitchen cupboards to be easily fitted
to straight walls.
The most effective method of straightening is as follows:
1.
Make saw-cut
Half depth
SPRING
2.
Push to
straighten
Drive wedge
in, then nail
through cut
and wedge
STRAIGHTENED
3.
Nail cleat to
side
STRENGTHENED
Fig. 21 Method of straightening studs
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NOGGINGS
Noggings, also referred to as noggins, nogs or dwangs (NZ), are horizontal members cut in
between studs at a vertical spacing of not more than 1200mm c/c.
They are designed to provide lateral strength and stability to the wall frame, while at the same
time keeping the studs straight and providing a means of fixing for sheet claddings and/or
linings.
To ensure that the studs remain straight and parallel each nogging should be measured between
each pair of studs at the bottom plate. They may be fixed in a straight horizontal line or
staggered, to allow for ease of nailing. The section size of noggings tends to be thinner than that
of the plates and studs, as they are not considered to be of the same structural importance.
Rule used to measure in
between studs
ds
Stu
In-line
row
1350 max.
2400
Additional
row where
spacing
exceeds
1350 c/c
2700
Staggered
row
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WALL FRAMING
LINTELS
Lintels, also known as heads, provide continuous support across an opening. The section size
depends on:
Span of the opening;
Stress grade of the timber or type of patent lintel;
Whether single or two storey; and
Type of roof and roof covering.
Note: Sizes and stress grades may be obtained from AS 1684 National Timber Framing Code.
The following details show how lintels are designed and fitted to the studs of openings:
A-A
Detail B
Jack stud
not housed
into lintel
Jack stud
D-D
Thick lintel
THICK LINTELS TO OPENINGS
GREATER THAN 1200MM
F
Detail
H
70mm Min
J-J
Preformed rigid
steel lintel
PRESSED METAL SECTIONS
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The alternative is to use sized, seasoned timber and simply butt joint all connections and secure
with patent metal connector plates. This is the preferred system for pre-fabricated frames,
which are used widely in the residential building sector.
19
WALL FRAMING
STUD CLUSTERS
The most commonly used methods of creating stud clusters are as follows:
EXTERNAL CORNER Timber frame cottage
Sawn timber with wall on joists, for a cut-in floor
Solid Blocking
Solid
blocking
Bottom plates
housed to take
studs
Solid blocking
Platform flooring
Platform flooring
Double joists under external walls
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21
WALL FRAMING
Example 1:
The plan in Fig. 8.27 shows the layout of a 3 bedroom brick veneer cottage, with the entry
facing North. The front wall of bedroom 1 and the entry has been selected. The framing is sawn
Oregon with stud spacings at 600 c/c and the plates will be housed and scarfed.
off
WEST
W1
BED 1
BOT
off
D2
EAST
off
off
WEST
W1
BED 1
TOP
off
D2
EAST
off
Identify the wall and calculate its total length from the measurements shown on
plan, i.e. 100 + 3555 + 100 + 1210 + 100 = 5065mm (allows for scarfed joints
both ends).
Select two straight lengths of 100 x 50 sawn Oregon, 5.1m long.
Square one end of both plates, measure 5065mm, mark and cut to length and then
cramp or tack nail the plates together. (plates are pinned together so they can be
accurately marked at the same time).
5100
5065
STEP 2
100
off
off
Set out the position of the scarf joints on both ends, plus any intersecting wall
connections. Also mark the position of 38mm common studs, which form the stud
clusters.
Note: Allow 50mm studs where a door or window stud forms part of the stud cluster.
38mm studs
100
1210
off
off
off
off
22
100
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STEP 3
Prepare a brick setout or storey rod. This rod should have brick bond marked on
one edge (which is the 230mm length of the brick face plus 10mm mortar joints),
brick gauge marked on the second edge (which is the 76mm thickness of the brick
plus 10mm mortar joints), vertical frame set out on the third edge (which shows the
bearer, joist, platform flooring if used, bottom plate, window sills, door and
window lintels and the top plate), and the fourth side may be used to show any
other special features, such as full stud length.
The table and details below may be used as guides to create a setout rod.
Note: Openings greater than 25 bricks wide are not shown in the Table.
TABLE 4
Brick dimensions
23
WALL FRAMING
Top plate
Window
head
Door head
Sill plate
Bottom plate
Joist
Bearer
STOREY ROD
VERTICAL SET-OUT
G.L.
Fig. 31 Details for the setout rod
24
HORIZONTAL SET-OUT
Brick courses
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25m
m
Window
Opening
Window Size
Stud Opening Size
25
WALL FRAMING
STEP 4
Set out the position of 100 x 50 door and window studs, using the setout rod, to
suit brickwork. Mark the plates to identify the openings.
1810
1190
905
D2
D2
W1
W1
STEP 5
600
Set out the position of 100 x 38 common studs at 600mm c/c. Start at one end from
a known corner stud and set out spacings at 600mm, working in-to-over. Place one
in the centre of the door opening.
600
600
600
600
STEP 6
WEST
WEST
Finally, identify the plates using the suggested notation on page 22.
BED 1
BED 1
BOT
TOP
EAST
EAST
Repeat the process for all plates in the cottage, then stack them neatly ready to be scarfed and
housed.
At this point all the studs may be marked off the setout rod, cut to length and stacked ready for
assembly. Also, special studs such as window and door studs may have sill and lintel positions
set out, using the rod, and are housed ready for assembly.
CUTTING SCARFS AND HOUSINGS
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27
WALL FRAMING
Select the prepared plates for the nominated wall. (the example used here is the
same as used for bedroom 1/entry of the brick veneer cottage in Fig. .27)
Lay them on-edge approximately one common stud length apart with the spring up,
preferably with the inside face of the frame up as well to ensure that studs may be
kept flush with the plates on the inside.
Select corner and wall intersection studs, also with the spring up, and fix them into
position.
STEP 2
Select and fix special door and window studs into position. Then place all other
common studs and fix them into position.
Note: Sight the edge of each stud to ensure the spring is up in all studs.
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Door studs
checked out
weekly for trimmer
Window studs
checked out
ready for lintel
and sill
STEP 3
Fix the lintel, trimmers, blocking, noggings and trimming studs into place.
Fix head
trimmer
Blocking for
wall fixing
29
WALL FRAMING
STEP 4
The frame is then squared by measuring the diagonals and adjusting the frame
until both diagonals are exactly the same measurement.
Diagonal metal braces with tensioners, metal angle and timber batten braces may
be fitted flush with the face on the inside. They are used where the panel size
allows them to be placed at approximately 45 and the brace will not pass across a
door or window opening. To achieve the 45 angle the brace is laid across the face
of the frame with one end meeting the top corner intersection and the bottom
placed in a distance equal to the height of the frame, from the end.
Where small panels between openings occur, sheet bracing is the preferred
method of bracing. Due to the thickness of the sheets, i.e. 3mm up to 9mm, they
are fixed on the outside of the frame or if used internally, they must cover the
whole surface of the wall, to prevent a step occurring in the lining sheets.
Therefore, it will be necessary to flip the frame over to fit the sheets on the cavity
side of the wall, as shown below:
Sheet bracing
nailed off
along bottom
Top of bracing is
temporarily nailed to
allow for adjustment
during erection
Fig.
39 Square frame and attach sheet bracing
STEP 5
Repeat the process for all the frames and stack them, in a convenient place for easy
access, off the ground on gluts. They should be stacked in the reverse order so that
the last frame on the stack is the first frame required for erection.
As previously mentioned, create separate stacks for internal and external walls to
prevent unnecessary moving and re-stacking of frames.
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Check the overall size of the floor frame or slab and check for square.
Where a slab-on-ground is used, frame positioning is best identified by setting out
all the wall positions using a chalk flick-line. A small amount of time spent prior to
erection could save massive amounts of wasted time trying to adjust frame
positions once all the frames are standing.
Check the diagonals of the slab over the largest area, then start from one square
corner setting out all the frames by chalking onto the slab as shown below:
Note: The set out below is based on the brick veneer cottage shown in Fig. 27
Fig. 40 Check slab for square and set out all frame positions
31
WALL FRAMING
STEP 2
Start at the square corner and erect two external frames. Nail the bottom plates at the
ends of each plate only. Dont nail the plate between the door studs, as this section
of plate will be removed at the completion of the erection procedure.
Nail external corner scarf joints together or skew nail through plates and then fix a
metal connector plate if walls are butt jointed together.
Attach temporary braces to the ends of the frames to provide a rigid corner and firm
attachment points for the next lot of frames. These temporary braces may be cleated
to the concrete floor or attached to pegs driven into the foundation material around
the outside.
Note: It is preferable to have at least two persons to lift and position frames, which
makes it easier and safer than one person.
Temporary
braces
Cleats nailed
to slab
Ends of frames
nailed to slab
32