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Disclaimer
Whilst every attempt has been made to provide accurate information it must be understood that shade
sails should only be installed by suitably capable and qualified persons.
Safe working methods must be adhered to at all times. Such methods may be dictated by specific
onsite circumstances which are outside the scope of this book. It is incumbent on the reader to
familiarize themself with such methods and to apply them at all times.
If you do not have the necessary experience or ability in this area it is recommended that a building
professional be engaged to install your shade sail and you use the information in this book to act as a
supervisor or consultant to the project.
All information in this document is provided as general guide only. Specific site considerations must
always be taken into account. It is incumbent upon the person reading this book to make all
necessary safety checks and take all necessary precautions and preparations regarding their own
safety and that of others. It is recommended that for specific engineering and installation matters that
suitably qualified professionals be engaged or consulted. The author of this book does not accept
any liability whatsoever for the way in which this information is used or applied. Furthermore, all
liability for damage, loss, injury or expense whether direct or indirect arising from the use of this
information is expressly excluded to the full extent of exclusions under Federal and state law. No
warranties are extended to any works carried out by any persons using information in this book. No
promises are made as to any end result any one person may or may-not achieve from reading and/or
employing any information covered in this book. It should be noted that this book must be read only
upon acceptance of these stated terms. Should any person not accept these terms in their entirety
they should immediately contact the provider at diyshade.com.au within 5 days of purchase of this
book whereupon they will be supplied with a full refund.
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Do It Yourself Shade
Shadesails Made Easy
by Andy McLeod
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Shadesails are installed in a vast range of situations. Some of the most common areas
where shadesails are installed include;
Swimming pools
Courtyards
Cafes, Restaurants and outdoor dining areas
As awnings or verandas
In agricultural applications to provide shade to animals including sheep and cattle,
horses, aquaculture, horticultural
Car parks
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In Summary
The provision of UV Protective shade in our outdoor areas today is no longer a luxury, its a
necessity. The purpose of this book is to give you the information you need to consider, to
design and install a professional quality shadesail which will look great and last for years. If
after reading this information you decide that the installation part of the job is beyond your
abilities you will be well educated to engage a contractor and be able to give them clear
instruction as to exactly what your requirements are and how the job should be done. You
will be knowledgeable about the best types of shade cloth to use and how to position the
shadesail itself so that it provides the coverage you need at the time of day you need it.
This book will also save you a great deal of money by using the right materials and having
them installed to the correct specifications.
In fact, I dare say, by the end of this book you will know as much, if not more about installing
shadesails than some of the shade industry contractors who do this for a living.
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I can confirm,
If the shadesail is to be installed in a public area such as park or pool then you will almost
certainly require local planning permission.
Most people who install shadesails in their home will seek council approval if the shade sail;
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
Can I do it myself?
Hopefully with everything you learn here the answer is YES but of course only you can
answer this question. This book gives you the information
you need to make that assessment.
Even if you cant, or choose not to do the job yourself, by
using the information in this book you will be informed
about exactly what needs to happen and will give you a
much better chance of getting the end result you want at
a fair price rather than hoping you are getting good
advice from tradespeople.
Included in the back of the book is an example Local Council Shadesail Requirements Document
which will give you an indication as to what documentation a Local Council might need you to supply.
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For
Against
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Vehicle which can carry lengths of steel (such as a ute or roof racks)
Wheelbarrow
Shovel
Auger
Strong flat piece of timber approximately 30cm wide x 1.5m long
Underground services plans including knowledge of location of conduits through existing
concrete slabs, Telstra cables etc
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Having the concrete delivered makes a tough job easy and it also allows you to specify the
strength of concrete you need rather than just guessing.3
Fitting the shadesail
This is the fun bit. It does, however, require working on ladders to reach up and hook the
shadesail onto the eyebolts for tensioning. If youre not confident and experienced at
working on ladders this might be something you choose to outsource.
You might decide to get in a tradesperson for some parts of the job such as digging the
holes whilst doing other parts yourself such as fitting the shadesail.
How do I ensure that I will end up with a quality job?
That is the purpose of this book. We cover all the information you will need and alert you to
the most common mistakes people typically make when they decide they are going to
design and install a shadesail by themselves. Two of the most common mistakes that
people make which by reading this book you will most certainly avoid are;
1. using columns which are too light / and not making your footings big enough. Both
these things are common causes of shadesails sagging, looking amateur and
subsequently failing.
2. Not understanding the curvature of shadesails and thus not getting adequate shade
when the job is complete.
2 We show you how to calculate the amount of concrete you will need in a later section.
3 Note: A minimum of 20mpa strength concrete is required.
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Diagram 2 shows the same shadesail on a typical mid summers day. Quite clearly the
shade is right over the seating area. If a well shaded area was required for an early
lunchtime, this would be perfect.
Diagram 3 shows the opposite of diagram 1. The shade is casting out to the eastern side
away from the setting sun (as viewed from the north). If the shade for this area was needed
for mid-afternoon activities then this would be a poor design. Instead the shadesail should
have been installed further to the west such that in the afternoon the shade would cast back
to where it was required.
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This of course has a dramatic impact on where the shade falls at different times of the day
and at different dates in the year.
From a DIY Shade Installers perspective, its important that when youre planning your
shade project that youre aware of the following:
In summer in the middle of the day the shadows will be short and the shade will fall
close beneath the object casting it. (Remember: High Sun = Short Shadows which
cast close in beneath the shadesail.)
In the morning and afternoon the sun is relatively low in the sky and it will cut in
under the shadesail causing the shade to cast out to the opposite side. (Remember:
Low Sun = Long Shadows that do not fall directly beneath the shadesail)
In winter, the sun never gets very high in the sky therefore the shade never really
falls directly beneath the shadesail. Typically winter isnt as important for shade
planning because the suns intensity and the resultant UVR are not as great.
If youre not sure about all this theory on sun angles and shade projections and wish to take
a more practical approach then I can make two recommendations.
1. Take some time to do a little bit of your own shadow modelling. Watch where the
sun comes up and where the shadows are cast during the day and take notes or
mark the ground with chalk. I once visited a customer who was doing his own scalemodel of where the shade would fall at certain times of the day using a table. Hed
carried a table out to the area that he was planning to shade and over a period of
time he watched and recorded where the shade fell at certain times of the day.
http://museumvictoria.com.au/discoverycentre/infosheets/planets/the-sun-and-the-seasons/
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The client was delighted with this installation as it was exactly what they had expected.
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6 metres
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Types of Shadesails
Essentially there are three main methods that are used to make shadesails and they have to
do with how the perimeter of the sail is made.
1. Webbing Perimeter: Typically a webbing perimeter
(similar to seatbelt material) is used for smaller shadesails.
It can be sewn either into the hem or directly onto the edge
of the fabric to act as the hem itself. Webbing shadesails
work well in situations where the shadesail is intended to be
put up and taken down on a regular basis. The shadesails
dont require as much tension to get them tight, they are
lighter in weight and the webbing is easy to fold into a bag
or box.
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Polytetrafluoroethylene
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Shadesail Corner
The corner is the place where everything comes together in a
shadesail and where you are able to really assess the
workmanship of a good quality sail. Look for:
Here are some other important features you should look for when
ordering a new shadesail.
Shape
Shadesails work best when they are a relatively symmetrical shape.
For example a six metre by seven metre sail is relatively
symmetrical and works really well whereas one which is say seven
metres x three metres is asymmetrical and doesnt work so well.
The reason for this is the curved edges.
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TAKE NOTE
The rule of
thumb is a
shadesail should
be at least half
as wide as it is
long.
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Size
As a DIY shadesail installer we would recommend that you dont tackle a shadesail any
bigger than 10 x 10 metres. The main reasons for this are:
1. Firstly, because the bigger the shadesail the deeper the holes, the heavier the
columns and the harder it will be to tension the shadesail.
2. Big shadesails can be quite difficult to fit. Often times a small block and tackle is
required to get them tight and most DIYers dont usually have this kind of equipment.
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UV
Degradation
Warranty
10 yr. Pro
rata
Monotec
10 year UV
Warranty
Rainbow
Z16
10 Year Pro
rata
Coolaroo
Usually 5
Year Pro rata
PolyFab
10 Year Pro
rata
General Comments
Gale Pacific manufactures the Synthesis Range of
shadecloth. The Synthesis Shadecloth Range utilises the
latest technologies to combine High Density Polyethylene,
advanced Ultra Violet (UV) stabilisers and pigments and the
latest manufacturing techniques to produce a broad range of
shadecloth for a number of applications. Included in the
range are:
Synthesis AF-230 A lighter weight shadecloth for smaller
projects
Commercial 95: A heavy duty, high shade factor fabric that
continues to perform in the hot Australian sun. It features
high shade factors of 95% (depending on colour) making it
widely suitable to applications such as playground shade.
AF-350: Gale Pacifics extra heavy duty shadecloth built for
large shade applications
http://www.synthesisfabrics.com
Australian made, the Monotec 370 series is a very high
strength shade cloth. Stiff and heavy to touch with little
stretch this fabric offers an extensive range of colours
including many very bright colours such as lime, orange etc. It
ranges in shade factors from 50% to a maximum of 90%.
http://www.monotec.com.au
A widely used fabric that has proven itself over decades of
use. Extensive range of colours. Best suited to small to
medium shadesails as it can stretch in some high wind or
larger applications. It has been rated up to 99% UV block
http://www.rainbowshade.com.au
This is Gale Pacifics retail or domestic shadecloth brand. It
is primarily used for shadecloth blinds, pergola covers etc.
Smaller ready made (imported) shadesails are available in
the material. The UV rating is usually a maximum 90% in a
limited colour range.
http://www.coolaroo.com
Polyfab supplies a range of high quality shadecloths
including:
Architec 400: An extremely strong product made for very
large shadesail jobs
Comshade: A heavy duty knitted shadecloth designed for
commercial and heavy duty shade applications
FR Comshade: A shadecloth with fire retardant properties
PolyFX: A knitted shadecloth suited to smaller shadesail
applications such as covering pools and courtyards.
http://www.polyfab.com.au
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A high Shade Factor is important when selecting which shadecloth to use for a shadesail. A
material with a high shade factor creates a cool and welcoming shade area. Shade factor,
however, doesnt directly relate to Ultraviolet Radiation Block or UVR Block.
UVR Block is a measure of how much potentially harmful radiation is reduced, or blocked by
a fabric or cloth. UVR block is an important measurement to understand when it comes to
shade cloth because it is UV radiation which leads to sunburn, skin damage and increases
the risk of developing skin cancer. A UVR rating of 94% is the recommended minimum UVR
block you should be looking for when choosing the brand of shadecloth for your shadesail.
The table below shows the technical data of Synthesis Commercial 95 Shadecloth. This is
one of the main reasons why my business has continued using it for all these years. Look at
the column to the far right and you can see that the tested % of UVR Block for most colours
is very high. Most of the colours test above the 94% level meaning that in test conditions
this was the percentage of Ultra Violet Radiation (in the 290nm 400nm spectrum range)
which was absorbed or blocked by the shadecloth.
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Shadesail Colours
Shadesails today come in virtually every popular colour. Different manufacturers have
different colour ranges so if you are after a specific colour you can advise your shadesail
manufacturer or do some research online yourself by visiting some of the fabric
manufacturers websites. This chart shows a selection of the common colours available in
Rainbow Z16.
Ive found over the years that very light colours including White, Champagne, Natural can
produce glare, especially over pale coloured paved areas or around swimming pools. Also,
some of the Champagne / Natural colours can look more yellow than anticipated.
Without a doubt, the most popular colour is Desert Sand. It is a neutral colour which blends
in with most surroundings. It has a high UV rating and doesnt show the dirt like some
colours. Most of the colours are fade-proof although I have noticed over the years that Red
can fade more than any other colour.
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TAKE NOTE
A flat sail is a poor design.
It will be hard to tension,
look unprofessional,
collect debris and in a hail
storm may collect a large
quantity of hail putting
pressure on attachment
points. Always design
your shadesail with at
least one point higher than
the rest.
6
7
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Gentle Hypar
Dramatic Hypar
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Triangular Shadesails
This is it - the biggest, or at least in our experience, the most common mistake people
make when installing a shadesail for the first time. They think they should install a
triangular or multiple triangular shadesails that cross-over. Read on and see why this
is a recipe for disappointment.
If this book could achieve only one thing it would be to dissuade you from installing a
triangular shadesail. The fact is, triangular shadesails dont work. When I say that they
dont work, I mean that in the context of providing adequate shade. If you are looking for a
purely visual effect then you might want to consider installing one but if your goal is to create
a quality shade area for a pool or outdoor entertaining area, I strongly recommend that you
do not install a triangular shadesail. I will tell you why.
As weve discussed, shadesails are made with curved or cutinary edges. This is necessary
to ensure they tension up correctly. Naturally, triangular shadesails are also made with
curved edges. This curvature cuts deeply into the shade area of the triangle. The loss of
shade area is particularly bad in shadesails which have sides of markedly different lengths.
What tends to happen is you are left with a long narrow strip of fabric which provides virtually
no usable shade. In the industry this is often referred to as the G-String effect. The
examples below clearly demonstrate this
point.
The first example is of a shadesail that I
personally installed but did not design.
The posts were installed by a builder who
thought he knew everything there was to
know about shadesails. He sent me the
measurements and although I mentioned
to him that he wasnt going to get a great
result, he persisted with his design. His
objective here was to provide shade to
this outdoor table which you can see
here. After Id fitted the sail for him (and
while he was having a lie down having
made such a big mistake) I climbed up on his roof and took this photo. It is a good example
of a very bad example of shadesail design and one I am doing my best to help you avoid.
Many people plan is to install two triangular shadesails instead of a single rectangular sail as
they just like the look of the triangles. The truth is they dont know what disaster they are
actually planning. The photo below shows an installation where four columns have been
installed and rather than installing a normal hypar sail which would have done a really nice
job, the person has chosen to get a bit clever and install two triangular shadesails to give a
more interesting effect. Not only are two triangles significantly more expensive than one
rectangle, notice the big gap between the two sails where the sun will stream straight
through. Notice also the long narrow strips of fabric as the sails taper toward the point
creating almost zero shade.
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Below is another example where the designer needed to cover a large outdoor space with
shade and instead of installing a series of hypar sails, he chose to install a series of large
triangles. The glaring issue I see here is of course the large gaps between the sails created
by the cutinary edges.
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You will get minimal shade coverage especially if the sides are of different lengths
(i.e., a long narrow triangle)
Triangular shadesails are relatively expensive. For a minor incremental increase in
cost you achieve significantly greater shade with a rectangular shape.
They
require
considerable
more
tension to get them
tight
It is less expensive
than two triangular sails
It requires less tension on the attachment points to get it installed tight
It gives a lot more shade coverage than two triangular shadesail would
It doesnt allow light to come into the central area where the shade is needed most
It still achieves the architectural hypar look which so many people desire
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Although I dont have any specific engineering for this type of sail, my rule of thumb is always make them
freestanding (i.e. columns in holes as opposed to attaching to existing structures such as walls) and when
referencing the size of the posts and the footings, always beef them up by going to the engineering specification
above what is recommended for a an overhead shadesail.
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Unlike shadesails, waterproof shadesails are made from a solid type of fabric, usually
a PVC material. PVC is much heavier than shadecloth therefore it requires
considerably greater tensioning.
PVC is a solid fabric with no give or stretch therefore to get a vinyl sail measured and
installed without any wrinkles requires much greater skill than shade cloth.
The most common mistake with waterproof shadesails is not allowing adequate fall
across the surface of the sail. I recommended a 15% variance in height for a shade
cloth shadesail as an effective standard. With a waterproof shadesail, this would be
the minimum you would need. The reason of course is that without adequate fall,
water will quickly pool in the middle or around the lip turning it from a sail into a
sump. This loads up the attachment points causing dangerous and dramatic failures
of columns, walls or any other fixture. Also, once stretched PVC fabric remains
stretched and will not go back to the original shape like shadecloth.
Waterproof shadesails, unlike shadecloth sails do not allow wind to pass through and
therefore even a slight breeze is transferred into a strong force against the sail.
That means that the attachment points must be much more strongly engineered that
for a normal shadecloth sail.
As mentioned earlier, PVC is a much heavier material than shadecloth and therefore
requires greater tension. This is achieved in several ways
o Stronger attachment points
o Stronger tensioning equipment (chains, turnbuckles etc.)
o A requirement for a greater cutinary edge. Unlike with shadecloth sail, the
cutinary can be as little as 4-5%, with a PVC sail this should be increased to
at least double that. This results in (surprisingly) less overall coverage
o Waterproof shadesails are much more expensive overall. Ive quoted out
jobs where the cost of installing a PVC sail was double that of a shadecloth
sail.
In summary, this book does not cover waterproof shadesail as they are a specialised type of
work. My experience is that if you really want the area to be waterproof and you really want
it to be a shadesail then you should contact a very experienced company in your area and
get them to do the job for you.
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Concept plan for a double layered shadesail installation using contrasting colours.
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1.
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2.
3.
4.
1. RHS:(Rectangular(Hollow(
Section
2. CHS:(Circular(Hollow(Section
3. SHS:(Square(Hollow(Section
4. NB:(Nominal(Bore
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Definitions
SHS = Square Hollow Section
CHS = Circular Hollow Section
RHS = Round Hollow Section
OD = Outside Diameter
NB = Nominal Bore or internal diameter
Grade: 350 Grade steel is recommended as it is considered to be structural grade steel.
250 Grade steel is less expensive but it does not have the strength of 350
Column Detail
Column Detail
Knock-on
Metal Cap
Eyebolt
40mm from top
Steel column
Size as specified
H
ei
gh
t
Column setback
2- 4 from Vertical
D
ep
th
Concrete
Footing
Anti-twist
Anti-lift bar
Diameter
Paver to stop
sinking
My preference is to use circular steel columns. The reason is because CHS pipe is readily
available and because when installed, I think they look the most impressive. The following
chart will guide you in selecting the correct size columns for the size of the sail you are
intending to install. My experience is that engineers talk in OD whilst steel merchants talk in
NB so its important that you know which is which and what youre getting.
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Column Size
Footing Size
Dia x Depth in mm
Maximum Column
Height above
ground in metres
400 x 1050
400 x 1350
500 x 1500
600 x 1700
2.8m
3.25m
4.0m
4.4m
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Column Size
Footing Size
Dia x Depth in mm
Maximum Column
Height above
ground in metres
75 x 75 x 5 SHS
100 x 100 x 5 SHS
125 x 125 x 5 SHS
400 x 1050
400 x 1350
500 x 1500
2.8m
3.3m
4.0m
Important Safety Note: Shadesails are not designed to be installed in areas where
extreme weather events such as very high winds, snow or hail are likely to occur. Such
circumstances can cause structural failure as well as irreparable damage to the shadesail
itself. In the instance where an extreme weather event is likely or predicted, the shadesail
should be removed ahead of time
Ordering The Columns
The best way to do this is to contact a steel merchant in your area and have them cut the
columns to the length you require. Order the knock-on metal caps from the same steel
merchant.
If you are happy to go with just galvanised steel columns you can arrange for the steel
merchant to deliver them directly to you. If however you would prefer to match the colour of
the columns to say the existing fencing then youre probably going to want to consider
getting them powdercoated.
Powdercoating is a process where by an electrical charge is applies to the metal and then a
powder is sprayed onto the steel and baked on. It give a long lasting result and also makes
the whole job look better.
In this instance, you will need to co-ordinate with the steel merchant to deliver the columns
to the powdercoater. Make sure your columns are drilled before they are powdercoated
(refer below). Once the Powdercoating has been done you will then need to have the
powdercoater deliver the finished columns to the job-site. Not all powdercoaters offer a
delivery service.
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Do a visual check. Follow any pipes, cables or conduits and see if it looks like they
are going to be in the vicinity of where you want to dig.
Review the plans of the property. Often times they clearly mark where the pipes and
services are.
Contact Dial Before you Dig 1100.com.au10. This is a free service and can be a
useful tool to check where underground services are located.
Contact an underground detection service company. They use sonar and other
devices to locate where pipes and cables may be located. This is a paid service but
if you are in any doubt as to the location of cables or pipes it is well worth it.
At the end of the day, exercise extreme caution when digging into the ground. Not all
services give accurate readings and cables and pipes tend to be in the most
unexpected places.
Getting the holes wrong for their columns is the
probably the second most common mistake people
make and the main reason that amateur shadesail
installers end up with wonky columns and sagging
sails. They simply dont realise how much force
shadesails actually generate, especially when its
windy.
Ive see it so many times where the
10
Relevant to Australia only. Other countries will have different organisations to perform these
functions.
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Rafter
Rafter
Metal Elbow
Timber Brace
Not shown to scale
Fascia Board
Fascia bracket fitted with coach bolts
Fitting Tips
Access internal timber frame by lifting small section of roofline (ie tiles). Measure and cut timber
brace so that it fits neatly between rafters. Mark holes so they line-up with pre-drilled holes in
metal elbow brackets and drill using a 7 mm drill bit. Screw coach bolts into place as shown.
Replace roofing. Fit fascia plate in position and drill through fascia board into timber brace.
Attach fascia bracket using coach bolts. Attach shadesail to fascia bracket using appropriate fittings.
Copyright Shade Australia Pty Ltd 2002. Reproduction prohibited without written consent from Shade Australia.
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How to Measure
Select
the
appropriate
measuring sheet (i.e. a three
point sail, four point sail, five
point sail, or six point sail).
Measuring for a shadesail
requires at least two people
and a tape measure long
enough to span the longest
diagonal.
Start by designating one of the
attachment points to be Point
A.
Work around in a
clockwise
direction
allocation the remaining points
as Point B, C D and so on.
For a simple four point
rectangular shadesail you simply need to take the point-to-point perimeter measurements
between each attachment point. Once this is done, you will need to measure the diagonals.!
One person holds the end of the tape measure against the outside edge of the eyebolt. The
other person pulls the tape taut and measure from/to the inner edge of the eyebolt. Record
the measurement on the measuring sheet. Repeat until
all measurements are complete.
Sometimes measuring the heights can be difficult to do because the ground is sloping.
What you can do in this situation is to get a string line and run it around the posts. Use a
spirit level to ensure it is level. Then measure from the string line to the eyebolt. What were
really after here is the variance in the heights and not the actual heights themselves. For
instance, if point A was 2.2 metres and points B,C and D were all 3 metres high, you could
indicate on the measuring sheet that point A was 0 and points B, C and D were all 80cm.
Finally, indicate which point you want to have the tag sewn onto. This is important because
when you receive the sail and go to fit it, having a tag at a nominated point makes it quick
and easy to orient the sail.
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Domestic Situation
Sail Size
8mm Hook/Hook
Turnbuckles
10mm Hook/Hook
Turnbuckles
Commercial Situation
Sail Size
10mm Hook/Eye
Turnbuckles + 10mm D
Shackles
It is assumed that domestic situations are more sheltered than commercial situations and
thus the wind loadings are slightly less. If in doubt
always go up to the next size hardware. The only
downside of this is the sail will slightly further
away from the attachment point.
The Chart refers to the Eyebolts with Collar
Assembly (shown here) which are able to
withstand greater loads than standard welded
eyebolts or Eye nut bolts.
The chart is based on locally sourced 316 marine
grade stainless steel hardware. Hardware supplies purchased from other suppliers my not
have the same strength loadings.
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Hardware Guide
Weve talked about Turnbuckles previously. This chart gives a quick overview of some
commonly used hardware in the shade industry. As a general rule stainless steel hardware
is mostly used, firstly because it is easy to check its breaking strains and also because it
really sets the finished job off and gives it a professional look.
General Description
Welded Eyebolt
Eye Nuts
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Oblong Plates
Make
attractive
attachment
points for smaller sails and can
be screwed onto suitable existing
structures such as timber beams.
D-Shackles
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Extended
Shackles
D-
Twist Shackles
Wall Plate
Stainless
Chain
Steel
Rafter Mast
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About a month (shorter if its been windy) after youve installed your shadesails you
should carefully inspect it to see if it needs additional tension. This is normal. The
fabric is very tight when it is first installed and as you will have found out, it requires
considerable tensioning to get it right the first time. After a month of wind, rain and
sun however, the material will have loosened up bit and will most probably benefit
from a small bit of additional tension. This shouldnt be a big job but it is important
and ensuring the sail is always taut will not only make it look better, it will significantly
increase the lifespan.
Every now and again it is a good idea to inspect all the attachment points. Check
that the turnbuckles are tight, that the pins of the shackles are still securely in place
and that any plates or brackets are in good order. Inspect the columns to see that
there has been no movement. All these things are important both from an aesthetic
and a safety perspective.
This photo is of a D-Shackle I removed from a
shadesail in a schoolyard and as you can see it is
almost worn through to the point of failure. The
shadesail had been in-situ for around 10 years I was
told but had never had any maintenance. Although
it was only a medium sized sail (about 6 x 6 metres),
over time it had become quite lose and I suspect the
flapping of the sail caused the excess rubbing of the
shackle pin.
If you are in a leafy area its a good idea to regularly
clean the leaves off the top of the shadesail. If you
dont remove debris the fabric will stain resulting in dark marks across your sail which
can spoil its effect. Likewise, any sticks or branches which fall onto the sail should
be immediately removed.
Shadesails can get dirty over time particularly in areas prone to pollution from cars
etc. If your sail begins to show these signs then you may want to consider cleaning
it. Beware do not use any harsh or industrial chemicals as these can badly
damage the fabric. If you want to clean your shadesail I recommend taking it down,
laying it on a lawn and using warm soapy water and a firm broom for brush. This
works well and brings a dirty shadesail virtually back to new (if you have not left it too
long!). This can be done whilst the shadesail is still in position however standing
beneath the sail and washing upwards is a pretty dirty job.
Periodic re-tensioning is recommended. If you notice that the sail is a little looser or
moving in the wind more than it has in the past, a quick re-tension is recommended.
Another warning: Experience has taught me that using a high pressure water
cleaner will damage the shadesail. If too much pressure is applied to an older sail it
can result in significant damage. Over the years Ive had quite a few people bring
their sails back for restitching because they have used one of these devices and
ripped the threads away from the seams.
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Commercial 95
Product Description
Commercial 95 is a high quality knitted shade
fabric supplied in bulk rolls, designed for tension
structures, awnings and shade covers specifically
for commercial architectural applications.
Material
Yarn
Construction
Pattern
Temperature range
UV stabilised HDPE
Monofilament & tape
Lock-stitch knitted
-30C to +75C
Features
Strong HDPE fabric wont rot or absorb moisture.
Stentered (heat-set) to reduce shrinkage and for
ease of fabrication.
10 year UV degradation warranty on fabric.
Engineered in Australia to meet the harsh climate.
Usage Instructions
Do not use against flames.
Contact with organic solvents, halogens or highly
acidic substances may reduce the service life of
the fabric and void the warranty.
Biaxial elastic material properties available on
request.
Colour
Code
Aquatic Blue
Black
Brunswick Green
Cherry Red
Desert Sand
Natural
Navy Blue
Ochre Red
Rivergum Green
Sky Blue
Steel Grey
Turquoise
Yellow
308766
415631
308728
415662
308704
308759
308735
415617
308711
415624
415648
308773
415655
Nom.
Width
3.00 m
Properties
Nominal fabric mass
(AS 2001.2.13)
Approximate thickness
1.6 mm
737 N/50mm
1592 N/50mm
143 N
203 N
3200 kPa
1758 N
Flammability
(AS 1530.2)
Flammability Index (range 0-100) 17
AS 1530 Part 2 & 3 certificates available on request
Suggested Specification
Shadecloth fabric shall be compliant to Australian
standard AS 4174 and shall be Synthesis
Commercial 95 knitted HDPE monofilament & tape
shade fabric offering a UV block up to 98.8%.
Cover
Factor
Av. %
Transmis.
Shade
Factor
50 m
96.7%
95.9%
97.4%
94.9%
96.5%
94.5%
96.4%
95.4%
95.7%
95.2%
97.3%
97.6%
94.6%
11.9%
5.1%
4.4%
19.0%
15.8%
21.1%
4.3%
5.6%
14.2%
5.3%
8.1%
10.4%
23.0%
88.2
94.9
95.6
81.0
84.2
78.9
95.7
94.4
85.8
94.7
91.9
89.6
77.0
55 kg
0.40 m
35 mm
340 gsm 20
Performance
Tensile Strength - Warp
Tensile Strength - Weft
(AS 2001.2.3.1)
Wing Tear Warp (mean)
Wing Tear Weft (mean)
(AS 2001.2.10)
Bursting Pressure (mean)
(AS 2001.2.4)
Bursting Force (mean)
(AS 2001.2.19)
Length
(folded)
Rev.5 02/06
Av. UVR
AV. PAR
Transmis. Transmis.
5.8%
4.9%
3.1%
9.0%
5.2%
4.9%
3.2%
3.3%
7.0%
3.2%
3.3%
4.6%
6.7%
13.8%
5.1%
4.8%
21.9%
19.0%
25.9%
4.7%
6.2%
16.3%
5.9%
9.5%
12.2%
27.7%
% UVR
Block
94.2%
95.1%
96.9%
91.0%
94.8%
95.1%
98.8%
96.7%
93.0%
96.8%
96.7%
95.4%
93.2%
The above results are typical averages from independent testing and quality assurance testing and are not to be taken as a minimum specification nor as forming any contract
between Gale Pacific and another party. Due to continuous product improvement, Product Profiles are subject to alteration without notice.
Notice: As the use and disposal of this product are beyond Gale Pacifics control, regardless of any assistance provided without charge, Gale Pacific assumes no obligation or
liability for the suitability of its products in any specific end use application. It is the customers responsibility to determine whether Gale Pacifics products are appropriate for
the specific application and complies with any legal & patent regulations.
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Plan View
Coach bolts
Rafter
Rafter
Metal Elbow
Timber Brace
Not shown to scale
Fascia Board
Fascia bracket fitted with coach bolts
Fitting Tips
Access internal timber frame by lifting small section of roofline (ie tiles). Measure and cut timber
brace so that it fits neatly between rafters. Mark holes so they line-up with pre-drilled holes in
metal elbow brackets and drill using a 7 mm drill bit. Screw coach bolts into place as shown.
Replace roofing. Fit fascia plate in position and drill through fascia board into timber brace.
Attach fascia bracket using coach bolts. Attach shadesail to fascia bracket using appropriate fittings.
Copyright Shade Australia Pty Ltd 2002. Reproduction prohibited without written consent from Shade Australia.
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Webshade
Webshade.com.au
Shade Australia
shadeaustralia.com.au
ARPANSA.gov.au
Bureau of Meteorology
Bom.com.au
Shadecad
http://www.shadecad.com
peter@shadecad.com
+61 7 54481140
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Structural details of all materials and fixings of the building are to be shown on the plans;
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The heights of the sail are to be indicated on the plan also (Maximum height 3.30 metres).
Floor plan and elevations of the shade sail, drawn to a scale of 1:100 minimum, are to be
submitted !with the Building Licence application. !Who submits the application? !Either the
property owner or the party contracted to construct the shade sail must submit the
application. !What materials must be used to construct a shade sail? A
! shade sail is to be
constructed to withstand Region D, Terrain Category 2 cyclonic conditions and, as such, a
durable material must be used. Generally, for shade sails to comply with the structural
requirements for cyclonic conditions, the supports are normally made from steel construction.
!Do I need a Structural Engineers design for the shade sail? Yes.
What is the maximum size Shade Sail that I can have?
The maximum area of a shade sail permitted on a Residential property is 10% of the area of the
property, up to a maximum of 120 m2. The maximum area is an aggregate of all outbuildings on the
property.
How far from the boundary of a property can I locate a shade sail?
The shade sail must be located no closer to the boundary facing the primary street than
1.5 metres, subject to a minimum of 5 metres being maintained from the shade sail to any
current or planned footpath.
The shade sail must be located a minimum of 1.5 metres from any secondary street
boundary.
The shade sail is to be located a minimum of 1 metre from the side or rear boundary, if
the length of !the shade sail or does not exceed 9 metres. !Note 1 - The set backs mentioned
above are based on the shade sail posts not exceeding a height of 3.3 metres. !Can I build the
Shade Sail as an Owner Builder? Y
! es, but you can only construct a building of this nature as an
Owner Builder if the value of construction is $20,000 or less. If the value exceeds this
amount, a registered builder will need to be engaged to obtain the Building Licence and carry
out the work. !Fees R
! efer to the Development Services Fees and Charges Information Sheet
for further information. !Fines and Penalties F
! ailure to obtain a Building Licence for a shade sail
is an offence under the Local Government (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 1960. The Shire
may choose to prosecute for failure to obtain a Building Licence. The maximum penalty for
this offence is $5000. The Shire may also serve a Notice on the owner or builder to remove
the structure. If you object to the local governments order you may have a right of review to
the State Administrative Tribunal. !Additional Information F
! or detailed advice about shade sails,
please call the Shire of Roebourne Building Services on 9186 8569. !Requirement Checklist
Notes
A Practicing Structural Engineers certified detail is required for the shade sail
relevant to !Region D, Category 2 cyclonic wind conditions;
A full site plan, drawn to a scale of 1:200 minimum, is to be submitted with the
Building Licence !Application, showing heights and setbacks of the shade sail posts;
A separate Planning Approval may be required if the property is zoned other
than Residential.
Floor plan and elevations of the shade sail, drawn to a scale of 1:100 minimum,
are to be !submitted with the Building Licence application. !Disclaimer !This information
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