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Fashion
TH GII PUBLISHERS
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The name
says it all,
The Society Bar & Grill not only provides a unique, new-age dining experience,
but also the ultimate in hospitality.
Located in the newly revamped Saigon Garden on Nguyen Hue,
The Society brings the iconic alley bar to Vietnam.
Current Promotions:
- Daily happy hour from 5pm to 8pm: 50% off all drinks except bottles
- 20% off all a la carte food items (until February 29th)
- Set lunches:
One-course meal - VND149,000
Two-course meal - VND199,000
Three-course meal - VND249,000
Grand Opening Party on 28 February 2016
with Live DJ and Theme Party
Contents
Feb. 2016
58
102
112
THE TALK
010 / Monkey Brains
26 / At Half Mast
INSIDER
48 / A Visual Storyteller
BRIEFINGS
12 / The Street Food Market
Saigon gets another new
food court. This one could be
a winner
14 / Up the Pole
18 / Boules, Anyone
50 / Thao Vu
52 / A Short History of
Thao Dien
58 / F for Fashion
88 / Helter Skelter
94 / A Beginners Guide to
Motorcycle Maintenance
Time to get practical
Contents
Feb. 2016
120
134
138
TRAVEL
HCMC
32 / To-Do List
37 / Overscene
FINAL SAY
HANOI
40 / To-Do List
44 / Overscene
COLUMNS
146 / Book Buff
Learning Vietnamese is
tough, just dont feel bad
about it
196 / Ten 10
CONTRIBUTORS
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
nick@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Editorial Manager
vy@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN
Staff Editor
jon@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA
Staff Photographer
julie@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter & Photographer
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
OWEN SALISBURY
Staff Writer
owen@wordvietnam.com
JESSE MEADOWS
Staff Writer (Hanoi)
jesse@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
ADMINISTRATION
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
TRANG LE
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING
TRINH BUI
Sales Manager
trinh@wordvietnam.com
CHAU GIANG
Office Assistant
giang@wordvietnam.com
DISTRIBUTION
trinh@wordvietnam.com
hai@wordvietnam.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
trang@wordvietnam.com
hai@wordvietnam.com
For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244
Special thanks to Peter Scott, Sin Kavanagh, Kate Robinson, Harry Hodge, The Intimate
Initiative, Hung Tran from Gotit, Dzung Yoko, Thao Vu from Kilomet 109, Giang from Thao Dien,
Lorenzo Kaleolani, Nguyen Diem Nhung, Tony Tuong, Mon Amie: King of Vest, Louise BachMogensen, Ella Henry, Thuy Nguyen, Nguyen Duy Thanh, Thiep Nguyen, Green One UN House,
Huyen Tran, Vi Pham, Rainbow Divers, Jan Adrian Venter, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Truong
from Bookworm, Douglas Holwerda, Duy Khanh, Ali Cannon, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Natalia
Martinez, Jim Cawood, Dana McNairn, Peter Scott, Nguyen Cong Tri and David Legard
Word is a registered
trademark. No content
may be reproduced in
any form without prior
authorisation of the
owners.
JULIE VOLA
Photographer
I dont know I often get
compliments on my coat and my
handbag. Id say it has to be these.
Tt c hnh nh v ni dung
trong n phm ny thuc bn
quyn ca n phm Word ca
C.Ty CP TMDVQCTruyn Thng
Dng Hunh. Mi s sao chp
khng c php s b xem l
vi phm lut S Hu Tr Tu hin
hnh ca nh nc Cng Ha X
Hi Ch Ngha Vit Nam.
Prelude
m not a fashionista
definitely not.
Although, over
the past two
years my dress sense
has improved, my
Vietnamese wife and
oldest daughter are
the fashion gurus of
our family.
That they take
the way they look
and the way they
dress so seriously
is unsurprising.
Vietnam is obsessed
by status, and status is
projected here via your
outward image. The
F for
Fashion
TH GII PUBLISHERS
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The
Inbox
Do you have
any comments
that you would
like to air? If
so, reach out
and touch
us at nick@
wordvietnam.
com were at
your fingertips.
On Leaving
(page 192, January 2016)
So the article is basically about Nick Ross
coming to VN for a month, being kidnapped by
zuzu aliens and forced to listen to Hotel California
for 16 years. Yep, sounds about right. Anon
Your article On Leaving really rocks. My brother
who used to live in Hanoi for three years, shared
your article on FB, saying: Same-Same. CO
Beautifully written, with a raw deep nerve.
Brave and stunning and shit hot. [Nick Ross]
you are not leaving. RR
Beautifully written and yes, Hotel California is an
incredibly irritating song. MC
We went back to England for six weeks. It was
not the country I grew up in anymore. My
13-year-old son could not wait to get back to
Vietnam. TL
Correction
The advert run on page 57 created by staff of
advertising agency Leo Burnett was wrongly
credited. It should have been credited to Jeremy
and Vy. We apologise for the error
Talk
Lead
THE TALK
LEAD ARTICLE
Monkey Brains
As we stagger out of the Goat era, its time for a new start
Big5
The
Tet, Tet
and did we
mention
Tet? Yes, the
Lunar New
Year is upon
us and so is
the monkey
Tet Fireworks
Fireworks over the Bitexco Tower in Saigon. Coming to you this month.
DThe BBGV will be bringing the 1920s to Saigon for their 20-year anniversary bash
a)
b)
All of Vietnam
Sunday, Feb. 7
Valentines Day
2
All of Vietnam
Sunday, Feb. 14
b
dinner this year, but apart from the
five-star hotels, all of which have got
something set up, and our friends at
The Deck in Saigon they do have
a rather romantic spot on the river
nothing has been released yet. Tet
just gets in the way.
So, our answer? Check out our
website at wordvietnam.com closer to
the date, and you never know what
you might find. It could even be love!
Foosball Tournament
Briefings
HCMC
A Place of Contrasts
Walking around the market you cant
help but experience the intense aromatic
combination of lemongrass, chilli, fish
sauce and durian.
Briefings
Hanoi
Up the Pole
Briefings
HCMC
The Body
Transformation Challenge
From Feb. 21, two health practitioners will be giving Saigon
citizens the chance to create a new you
Individual Attention
Because of the personal help given to all
the contestants, the challenge is limited to
30 places. But even if you dont make it to
register on time, the same classes, nutrition
and supplements offered during the
challenge are still available at the clubs as
part of their normal business.
There are two separate competitions
most body fat lost and most centimetres lost.
Prizes include a private healthy shopping
tour with La Holista, as well as free classes
and supplements.
The price to enter the challenge is
VND3.5 million with a discount for early
bookings.
For info, email chiara@laholista.com or visit
laholista.com. The launch will be from 3pm
to 5pm on Feb. 21 at City Garden, 59 Ngo
Tat To, Binh Thanh, HCMC while the final
measurements will be taken exactly four weeks
later at the same location.
Briefings
Hanoi
Boules, Anyone?
In Hanoi, ptanque is alive and very well, awash with joie de vivre
A Tense Match
As the square-up starts, the atmosphere
is tense. On a table next to the terrain
de ptanque, an audience watches on,
discussing the game, intensely observing
the unfolding of this power match. The
games consists of a number of rounds, or
ends. As each end finishes, players and
onlookers gather in the middle of the pitch
to assess the final position of the balls. At
one point a tape measure comes out; two of
the boules are an almost identical distance
from the cochonnet and its too close to call.
Charity
of the Month
Cleaning Up
Now, after five years in Vietnam, Scott is
at it again, but this time he simply wants
to clean up. Thats why hes launching
the first edition of Clean Up Vietnam Day
on Apr. 17. Motivated to leave a lasting
change for the better, and to improve
visitors first impression of the country,
Campaigner
Previously a campaigner for the likes of
Greenpeace, Australian Conservation
Foundation, and Friends of the Earth, as
well as Aboriginal advocacy groups, Scott
is used to applying his knowledge and
contacts to agitate for change. Based on
some of those contacts, which back home
in Australia included sections of the music
industry, he even made a compilation
album once to raise money.
Peter Garrett, the former Australian
Environment Minister and still frontman
of iconic and politically motivated Aussie
rock group Midnight Oil, wrote the
foreword for Scott on the albums sleeve
notes. It includes the following piece
of inspiration: Making a stand takes a
person from passive observer to active
Community
So, based on that simple principle of
coming together for the common good,
Scott wants as many people as possible
to register on the Clean Up Vietnam
website, and get engaged in improving the
environment in which we all live, even if
its only in one alley, one pond, one stretch
of beach, anywhere, for two hours on one
day.
Each registrant will get a plastic bag,
gloves and everything they need to
take part. And of course its totally free.
Spreading the message by speaking to
local and international schools, he hopes
the effect of his campaign will be to
ultimately change behaviour.
As much as it is about cleaning up
Quick Fact
According to a recent study by Ocean
Conservancy, Vietnam, China, the
Philippines, Thailand and Indonesia are
responsible for as much as 60 percent of
the plastic waste dumped into the ocean
each year. Thats why the opportunity to
do this here is exciting, says Scott. We
can make a huge impact.
ILLUSTRATION BY VU HA KIM VY
Briefings
Vietnam
Why Vietnam?
Ive been living and working in Vietnam
since 2012, and feel very passionately about
my home away from home, so it seemed
only logical to combine sustainability,
entrepreneurship, and Vietnam, says Amy.
Vietnam also has a great need for sexual
In
Transition
Hanoi
Construction in
West Lake
Its not just Hanois outskirts that are getting new developments
Outwards, Moving In
When the boundaries of Hanoi Province
were expanded in 2008 to include the
former province of Ha Tay and parts of
Hung Yen and Vinh Phuc, it was thought
that all the developments would take place
out of town. The assumption was only
partly correct. Hoang Mai District to the
southeast of central Hanoi has experienced
huge expansion, as has Long Bien, Tu Liem
Briefings
Hanoi
At Half Mast
The turtle in the lake is no more
The moment when cu rua, the Hoan Kiem Turtle, was finally caught in 2011
An Embalmed Future
On learning of its death, professor of biology
Ha Dinh Duc was invited to the scene
along with local authorities to discuss the
next steps for the turtle. Professor Duc has
spent years researching and tracking down
information on the giant turtle in Hoan Kiem
Lake.
Also on-site was the chairman of the
Hanoi Peoples Committee, Nguyen Duc
Chung, who assisted in handling the
incident. The turtle was moved to the Ngoc
Son Temple for preservation.
In the coming days, local authorities will
discuss with scientists the best way preserve
its body, including embalming, he said.
The Peoples Committee also announced
that the turtles remains will be kept at the
Vietnam National Museum of Nature.
Sin Kavanagh
Briefings
HCMC
Book Street
Giving two fingers to the Kindle
Startup
of the
Month
Hanoi
Gotit!
Todays students use smart phones for everything. Now, an application
lets them take photos of their maths homework and get online experts to
coach them through the answers
Understanding Behaviour
My problem with physics was that I
would get to the answer, but not really
understand why, begin to over-think it,
change my response and end up frustrated.
I asked Hung if his app overcomes this.
Definitely. With Gotit! we dont just provide
the answer, we provide the explanation to the
problem through a 10-minute chat session
where students interact with the expert to
really understand the problem.
The key to the apps success, he says,
actually comes from a little insight into
human behaviour.
Sports
Digest
CHALLENGEVIETNAM
will run alongside Nha Trangs
six-kilometre stretch of coastline
and offers another triathlon
option later in the year, with the
Danang Ironman taking place in
the springtime.
CHALLENGEVIETNAM is
going to be an experience the
participants will never forget,
says Pulse Active representative
Bady Pham. We want the athletes
to feel like they own the race.
CHALLENGEVIETNAM
is the newest addition to the
Danang to Host
International Regatta
ToDo
list HCMC
Hes fantastic and hes Australian Fantastic Man plays Obs on Feb. 19
4.
2.
3.
1.
Ladies pro
golf tournaments,
clearance
sales, holiday camps,
a wine and
food festival,
a 1920s bash
and a Bloody
Mary competition. All
over the next
two months
in Ho Chi
Minh City
Gojiberry
The Observatory, Q4
Friday, Feb. 5
A DJ Duo out of Canada with a
juicy-fresh disco touch, Gojiberry
is comprised of Heidy P and ASDF.
Both will be on booth duty keeping
things shook up with their assorted
takes on what makes people move.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance
is free before 11pm and VND150,000
after. For more info click on facebook.
com/theobservatoryhcmc. The
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, HCMC
Fantastic Man
The Observatory, Q4
Friday, Feb. 19
A key agent in the contemporary
Australian House scene, Fantastic
Man brings a unique, electrified
equatorial sound to both his
productions and sets. Returning to
Obs to do his thing for the second
time, support comes from Nic Ford.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance
is free before 11pm and VND150,000
after. For more info click on facebook.
com/theobservatoryhcmc. The
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, HCMC
ToDo
list HCMC
Mono Printing
Vin Gallery, Q2
Thursday, Feb. 25
After the success of Lino printing
last winter, Ella West, Vin Gallerys
resident print expert, will return
to guide budding artists through
another exciting printing style. So
take a big sip of wine and roll up
those sleeves its time to ink, roll
and print your way to glory!
For more information check vin-space.
com/canvas-and-wine
Red D
Mirror, mirror on the wall, whose Bloody Mary is best of all? Find out on Feb. 28 at Pitchers
The New Zealand Food and Wine Festival returns to RMIT in mid-March
6.
House guru Red D will be aiming to bring the house down at the end of February
3.
5.
2.
4.
This months Canvas & Wine is all about learning to make prints
1.
The Observatory, Q4
Saturday, Feb. 27
Responsible for what many claim
as the most spectacular showcase
of house music The Obs has ever
witnessed, Red D is a master of the
genre and has a massive arsenal
of tracks that keep dance floors
in delirium for hours and hours.
Support comes from Hibiya Line.
Doors open at 10pm and entrance is
free before 11pm and VND150,000 after.
For more info click on facebook.com/
theobservatoryhcmc. The Observatory is
at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Oliver Deutschmann
Observatory, Q4
Friday, Mar. 11
Vidab label boss and instigator
of Falkplatz, a series of 10 EPs all
more powerful than each other,
Oliver Deutschmann drags a cracker
reputation onto dance floors. Armed
with heavy techno and spinning
on the decks without compromise,
Oliver has established himself as
one of the spearheads of Berlins
renewal, regularly playing at Tresor
and Berghain.
Coming to Ho Chi Minh City with
Heart Beat, supporting will be OKO
(RUS) and Chris Wolter (GER) with
5
visuals from EROL (SWE).
Doors Open at 9pm with free entry
before 11pm. VND150,000 after 11pm.
The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC
ToDo
list HCMC
1
this year?
For more information go to
saigonchildren.com/saigon-cyclochallenge-2016.aspx
The worlds top female professional, Lydia Ko, will most likely not be playing at the first pro golf tournament for women in Vietnam,
2.
3.
The BBGV turns 20, and to celebrate theyre putting on a themed 1920s party
1.
If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage,
please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.
IN
Just
HCMC
From digital
banks to
veterinary
clinics,
to Italian
restaurants.
All thats
new this
month in
Saigon
Raffles Singapore is one of the latest properties to be swallowed up by hotel management chain, Accor
No matter where youre visa card is issued, 30 restaurants in Vietnam are now offering discounts for anyone paying by card
1.
2.
3.
Ms. Dcor is there to help you with all your interior design needs
4.
5.
6.
4
6
5
Ms. Dcor
Founded by Spaniard Sonia A.S.
Hurlot with a passion for culture,
art, dcor, and the small details
in life, Ms. Dcor Design Studio
promises to guide your through all
your graphic design, art advisory,
and event planning needs.
With a blog available in English
and Vietnamese, they promise
to offer quality advice for home
decoration with tips on the latest
trends. Their focus on details means
that every project is planned in
depth and with total passion.
Ms. Dcor is at 216/24 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2 or online at ms-dcor.com
Namo
Timo
ToDo
listHanoi
Yoga, foosball tournaments, 3D
exhibitions,
book sales
and African
vinyl nights.
Theres
not all that
much going
on in Hanoi,
but theres
still enough
to keep you
busy
3D World
When it comes to DJing, Dan Lo knows how to make you (and himself) sweat
1.
2.
Fashionista
Made in Germany
Luscious water, silky hair, fluffy towels, crisp vegetables, glistening glasses,
bright bathrooms...
Provided to thousands of families and businesses by BWT in over 75
countries worldwide
www.bwt-vietnam.com
Vietnam's favourite
Brazilian restaurant.
,
DISHES
W
E
N
H
N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL.
OK AN
O
L
W
NE
ToDo
listHanoi
Zenith Yoga was new classes starting this month for both kids and adults
Are you the Messi of the foosball world? Head to CAMAs completion on Feb. 22 and find out
2.
3.
4.
1. Explore the world of metaphysical reality this month with Karen Gay
Metaphysically Speaking
Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
From Feb. 22
Learn about the forces behind such
concepts as Numerology, Colors,
Astrology, The 5 Elements, Energy
and Healing in an interactive,
hands-on series of workshops that
will allow you to take away skills
and knowledge of these energies
and apply them to your unique life
experience.
A six-week exploration of
metaphysical reality run by Karen
Gay, there will be two lots of
workshop sessions. The first will
start on Monday nights from Feb. 22,
from 7pm to 9pm, while the second
will commence on Wednesday Feb.
24, from 10am to 12pm. Both will run
until the end of March.
The course exchange fee is VND1.2
million per person and the workshops
take place at #24, Lane 9 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Each programme
overscene hanoi
Stand-Up Comedy
dj vadim
Legendary London-based
Russian DJ Vadim descended
on ATK. Packed to the
rafters, the turntablists
Currently in Hanoi on
a Fulbright fellowship,
American photographer
Geoffrey Hiller gave a
waterfall disco
If you have a noteworthy event which you thinkwould fit into our coverage,
please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
Go to: wordvietnam.com/mediavp/photo-gallery for full viewing access.
IN
Just
Hanoi
Its a
quiet
month
in Hanoi
this
February
Everyones favourite tailor clothes shop, Zeds Threads, finds itself a new location
1.
2.
welcome to visit.
Zeds Threads is at 36 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Hanoi and is open Monday to
Saturday from 8am to 5pm. For further
info click on zedsthreads.com
Insider
A Visual Storyteller / Thao Vu / A Short History of Thao Dien / F for Fashion / Helter Skelter / A beginer's Guide to
Motorcycle Maintenance / Setting a Benchmark / The Upper Crust / Chops / The Many Faces of Bun Cha / Le Terroir / Sui
Cao Chien / Going Deep / Making Tracks the Long Way / Notes From Another City / The Motorbike Diaries
Insider
MANY FACES
HCMC
A Visual Storyteller
From music bar owner to graphic designer to creative director
working in the fashion industry, Dzung Yoko is the ultimate creative,
someone who has successfully tried his hand at many things.
Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy. Portrait by Francis Xavier
The Nickname
In the early 2000s, Yoko Caf &
Bar on Nguyen Thi Dieu became a
phenomenon. A pioneer of the live
rock caf and music bar industry,
the watering hole was named after
John Lennons wife, Yoko Ono. To
this day, portraits of Yoko survey all
parts of the bar.
I opened Yoko with a friend after
graduating from the Ho Chi Minh
City University of Architecture in
1998, says Dzung. But I sold it a
long time ago.
His admiration for Yoko Ono and
the name of his bar caused the name
Dzung Yoko to stick. It gets printed
in his credit in Vietnams version
of Elle Magazine and now LOfficiel,
where he holds the position of
creative director.
I want viewers
to consider fashion
as an art form
and people who
work in the field as
artists
sketch them out. I can sketch
whatever I want and I really like
that feeling. I think I have found
my calling.
Unexpected Projects
After 15 years working in the
graphic design and fashion
industries, Dzung had his
inaugural solo exhibition last July.
Considered to be the first fashion
photo exhibition in Vietnam, it was
a collection of his best photos, best
album covers and achievements
over the last 15 years, with the
original sketches sat next to the
final products. The exhibition also
included new artworks that he and
his team had gone to a lot of effort
to put together.
It was never planned, says
The Message
Now working as the creative
director of Vietnam LOfficiel,
Dzung has to get five fashion
shoots completed every month.
Thats not counting the magazines
product shoots, other freelance
jobs and his caf. He is in charge
of every stage of the process, from
generating ideas to sketching
it out, styling the shoot and
supervising the retouch to make
the final perfect product.
Yes, I am busy as hell, he says,
but Im happy with that as I can feel
the love and passion for the work
running through my veins.
I asked him what he wanted to
convey to people through his fashion
artwork.
I want viewers to consider
fashion as an art form and people
who work in the field as artists.
Beautiful outfits express their
designers taste, creativity and
uniqueness; therefore, they deserve
to be honoured as works of art. So
my role is helping people gain a
multidimensional view and feel the
soul of each fashion product through
my visual stories.
Insider
MANY FACES
NATIONAL
Thao Vu
50 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com
Adapting
A Sustainable Approach
Thaos studio contains a rack of traditional
costumes from ethnic minority groups,
which she collects and uses as inspiration
for her own designs. She showed us one of
her pieces that was displayed in the Hanoi
Museum of Fine Arts; a long white coat
made from a blanket that is over 100 years
A Journey
The name Kilomet 109 comes from the
distance between Thaos home province of
Thai Binh and Hanoi. She chose it because
it reflects the type of customers she has in
mind travellers who need their dress to be
both fashionable and flexible. The clothes are
simple, yet sophisticated and stylish, and can
be worn in many different ways, allowing
her customers to pack only a few versatile
pieces for any trip.
[The name implies] a movement,
a journey, Thao says. Its also a
measurement, which relates more directly to
what I do.
For over five years, she has worked
with four different ethnic groups (Dao,
Nung, Muong and Thai) from the northern
mountains of Vietnam to produce the textiles
she uses in her designs. Each ethnic minority
performs different parts in growing,
Keeping it Natural
Since its first clothing launch in 2012,
Kilomet 109 has done well. Clothes
designed by Thao are sold at Module 7 on
Xuan Dieu in Hanoi, as well as at boutique
stores in Berlin and Portugal. Her latest
ecologically-friendly collection, Seed, was
successfully launched at Manzi Art Space
last December, and featured not only
organic fabrics but also natural dyes and
beeswax batik prints.
Thaos other new line of clothing is
more dressy, and requires fabrics that are
impossible for her suppliers to produce in
Vietnam. She imports these from sustainable
producers in Hong Kong, Thailand and
Japan. Although she hopes to eventually be
able to produce everything here, she says it
is a hugely ambitious goal.
For now, she is focused on designing more
pieces and expanding her business by selling
to stores in Saigon, the rest of Vietnam, and
all over the world. Although it might take a
while to do things right, I have no doubt that
Thaos beautiful clothing will go far.
Insider
INSIDER
HCMC
A Short History
of Thao Dien
It took about 40
minutes to get here
on a motorbike from
District 1, through
small villages and
streets which are now
the highway, across a
single lane bridge and
then into Thao Dien
Road which was a
roughly paved road up
to the compound
In Search of History
After leaving Thien Nga Compound we go
in search of old houses.
Drive slowly, says Giang, Ill spot them
immediately. The really old houses are the
ones that have sunk into the ground. All the
others have been built up much higher.
The first we come across are in the
Nguyen Cu area of Thao Dien. Lying below
street level, one house still has its old
address signage up from right after the war
1014A Khu Thanh Binh. With a tiled front
and iron window detailing typical of 1960s
Saigon, it looks like its about to be either
repaired or knocked down.
Most of the houses have already been
knocked down, raised or rebuilt, explains
Giang. The problem with the land here is
the flooding. It makes the land unstable, and
constantly moving.
I see the results of this one road down on
the narrow section of Nguyen Van Huong.
One house has sunken so low into the
ground that you can see quite clearly where
the water level rises.
It happens every autumn, right? I say to
one of the residents.
No, he says. Its happening right now.
This is the flooding season.
Both he and Giang point out a concrete
barrier that has been built to fend off water
from the street.
Does it work? I ask.
Not really.
Next door in a Quan Com Binh Dan a
cheap rice restaurant they take me inside
and show me cracks in the wall. Because of
the flooding and the land, the foundations
are unstable.
We want to repair it, says one of the
inhabitants, but its too expensive. The only
way to do it properly is to knock the whole
house down and start again.
It reminds me of a house I used to rent
nearby in the former mangrove area of
Rach Dua. It had gaping fissures in one of
the outside walls, and so unstable were the
foundations that the floor in the lounge was
sloping inward. When we moved out we
cited bad architecture as a reason for finding
other accommodation. But the problem is
that much of Thao Dien is built on former
mangrove. Like Thanh Da Island next door,
its sinking.
It makes me wonder about all the new
developments that are sprouting up in the
area. Will they, too, have foundation issues?
I do know that the developers in nearby
Thu Thiem are raising the land by 3 metres
to prevent flooding. But this leaves another
problem. When all the natural waterways
have been built upon and disrupted, where
will the water go? You just need to look
at the 2011 floods in Bangkok, a city also
constructed on mangrove. A bout of nonstop heavy rain caused the Thai capital to be
flooded for weeks.
In the Phu My Hung area of Ho Chi Minh
City, another district built on reclaimed
swamp, it has meant cracks in the sidewalk
and tarmac as land moves around beneath
all the concrete and water searches for a
place to flow. Mangrove roots help stabilize
the land and prevent soil in unsteady areas
from breaking down, yet take them away
and the land starts to fall apart, no matter
how much concrete you put on top. This is
why mangroves are now being replanted all
around the world to stop coastal erosion.
First In
When the co-founder of The Deck and
Mekong Merchant Anna Craven-SmithMilnes made the transition to Thao Dien in
2000, she moved into a house at the end
of a very muddy road. Together with her
partner, Lawson Johnson, she still lives in
the same property.
Lawson moved to Thao Dien in 1993
to live in the Lang Bao Chi area, she
says. It took about 40 minutes to get here
on a motorbike from District 1, through
small villages and streets which are now
the highway, across a single lane bridge
and then into Thao Dien Road which was
a roughly paved road up to the [APSC]
compound. Everything off Thao Dien was
dirt track.
Thao Dien at the turn of the century was
a very different place to the one we know
now, the one that during rush hour comes
to a near standstill. According to Anna, the
area was quiet and charming with no shops
except the An Phu Supermarket. Most of
the land on either side of Thao Dien Road
was undeveloped and the area after Lang
Bao Chi was paddy fields and scrubland,
all the way around to the Saigon Bridge.
The loop that has become Nguyen Van
Huong didnt exist.
Lang Bao Chi was full of Vietnamese
journalists, she adds. It had a very cute
A Brighter Future?
Its not just standalone restaurants and
fast food chains that have entered the area.
Shopping malls, supermarkets, a soon-tobe-completed metro line and high-rises are
also sprouting up. The latest addition is the
new Vincom Mega Mall. Set on the main
highway next to the Masteri, a soon-tobe-completed apartment block complex, it
represents everything that this area aspires
to modern, trendy, consumerist and new.
It comes with a top-floor ice rink, a wellpopulated food court and its own cinema
complex.
Next door in An Phu, newly built areas
have sprouted up and as I write, Tran
Nao Street is being raised one metre and
widened into a highway. Further on is
Thu Thiem, where developers are in the
early stages of building a new city directly
opposite the CBD in downtown Saigon.
Like much of Thao Dien and Phu My
Hung, the development is being built on
mangrove.
With Thu Thiem, An Phu and Thao
Dien located so close to the city centre, it
makes logical sense to build Ho Chi Minh
City out to the north, an area that due to
the swamps has for the last 150 years been
widely ignored. Yet its not something that
excites the likes of Giang.
When we start talking about the past
his eyes light up, his smile widens and
his body becomes more animated. His
memories are nostalgic yet tinged with
sadness. In a few years time this area will
never quite be the same.
Cover Story
F for Fashion
At the turn of the millennium, everyone in Vietnam seemed to
dress the same. Fast forward 15 years and people have developed
some style. So with all the international brands in town, wheres
it all heading? Words by Nick Ross
At the Mall
A Matter of Price
The issue with price, where certain brands sell lowend clothing in the West but are seen as mid-range in
Vietnam, is something that Paul Norriss believes makes
The Next
Generation of
Designers
Whether Vietnamese or foreign, this country is home to a new
generation of clothes designers. We profile four.
Louise Bach-Mogensen
O-Thala
85 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An
o-thala.com
riginally from Denmark, Louise BachMogensen has called Vietnam her home for
the past 16 years, after falling in love with the
country while travelling here after university.
Though Vietnam has captured her heart, Louise
has found a way to honour her love of her two homes
through her fashion label O-Thala, named after an old
rune from Viking times that signifies a return to the
sacred land. Her designs for O-Thala are about finding a
blend between Scandinavian minimalism and simplicity
with the detail and intricacy of traditional Vietnamese
embroidery and beading.
Louise has not always been a designer, but has been
a closet artist since she was able to pick up a pencil or
paintbrush. Ive always been fascinated by human
bodies and movement, recalls Louise. When I decided
to move into fashion design it was a fairly easy move,
I just drew on my passion for humans and put clothes
onto them.
Many dream of what Louise has managed to
achieve with O-Thala in managing to turn her creative
hobby and passion into her profession, helped by her
background in sales and marketing.
Louise finds inspiration everywhere; she recently
saw a Bjorn Wiinblad illustration that triggered a print,
and it is the little ideas like these that start sprinkling in
slowly in her day-to-day life. The beading on a shirt
in the collection was created after I saw water running
down glass just being exposed to visuals can help you
create, says Louise.
The pieces Louise designs often have complex
beading and fabric work, but she has a production team
of six people who help her develop her work.
Some of the beading for one piece alone can take up
to two days to complete, says Louise about this hard
but rewarding work. Sin Kavanagh
Ella Henry
Thuy Nguyen
SINE
14 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
facebook.com/sinestore
Shopping
Second-hand
Rummaging
The Source
Where To
Shop When
Youre
Western-Sized
S
Things of Substance
Zeds Threads
Hanoi
Rico
Emporium
Luna Outlet
Curve
Mayhem Saigon
Masto Designs
HCMC
Ginkgo
Dung Tailor
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Saigon Square
Material
World
Vietnams garment industry is already a success story. Now, with more
free trade agreements on the floor, it looks set to boom again.
Words by Jon Aspin
A Growing Market
Value Chain
The King
of Vest
Made
for Walking
Sin Kavanagh and Kyle Phanroy pay a visit to
Shoe Fabrik to see fashion from the other side
Insider
HELTER SKELTER
INSIDER
FASHION
Vietnam is a conservative country, a place where tradition is interwoven with everyday life.
Yet, so much here bears a modern edge, an edge that comes from taking ideas from
overseas and adapting them to local needs; an edge that sees this country race helter
skelter towards a future that is as yet unknown.
We wanted to capture this mood, this non-stop ride to infinity and beyond. Yet we also
wanted to capture the Vietnam of the past, regal Vietnam, a place, a feeling, an era that
lives on in peoples hearts. Through fashion, we wanted to achieve something very bold, to
show Vietnam as it looks and feels in 2016.
Tasked with this brief, our photographer Francis Xavier decided to mix old with
new through the use of the humble motorbike. The new was the bike, the face visors,
the Vogmasks, the Star-Spangled Banner helmet. The old was the Honda Cub, the
traditional ao dai and the yem, a northern Vietnamese version of the halter. Scenery
from Hoi An appeared on the clothing, as did flowers, jungle designs and images of the
Vietnamese dragon. And in the background we mixed peeling-paint walls with modern
day paving stones, cast-iron gate shutters and the facade of a five-star hotel.
The photos capture the spirit of now and then, past, present and future, the spirit of a
country that lurches forward before stepping back, until once again it leaps on to another
stage. As the lyrics of the oft-covered Beatles song, Helter Skelter, go:
When I get to the bottom I go back to the top of the slide
Where I stop and I turn and I go for a ride
Till I get to the bottom and I see you again
Yeah yeah yeah hey
88 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com
Insider
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Tool bag
These are some basic, portable tools that
would be useful for anyone attempting
roadside motorbike repairs:
patch kit
combination pliers
screwdriver (both Philips head and
flat head / blade)
tyre lever
adjustable wrench (6 or 8-inch)
ring spanner
Basic checks to perform on a bike before buying, renting, or going on a road trip
Visual Checks
Are there any fluids leaking? Check the
engine area or underneath the bike for
oil; check the shock absorbers (and
wheel areas if you have disk brakes) for
hydraulic fluid leaks.
Are the tyres worn? There should be a
depth of at least 3mm (about the size of
Thorough Checks
Open the cap on the chain guard with a
flat head (blade) screwdriver and check
the tension on the chain by inserting
your index finger in the hole and
pushing up and down.
If the chain touches the chain guard
at the bottom, its too loose, but it should
move up and down a bit (roughly one
inch of play is fine). A loose chain will
affect your acceleration and is more
likely to come off the sprocket, while an
overly tight chain will wear out the
chain and sprocket more quickly.
Also, while youre in there, check to
see if the chain is dry; if so, lube it up!
Check the nuts where the brake line
meets the drum on each wheel (if you
dont have disk brakes) to make sure
theyre not screwed all the way in; if
they are, your brake shoes are worn out
and need to be replaced.
Also check the play on the hand and
foot brakes to make sure theyre tight or
loose enough. There should be a little
free play before you feel the brakes
catching (too tight and they overheat,
too loose and you cant brake hard
enough.)
If you have disc brakes, carefully feel the
disc to make sure its not rough or has a
lip (Beware: if youve been driving,
this may be hot!). If so, there is
motorbike / xe my or xe honda
mechanic / th sa xe
chain / dy xch or dy sn
wheel / bnh xe
tyre / lp xe or v xe
inner tube / xm xe or rut xe
puncture / thng lp or lng bnh
brakes / phanh or thng
lights / n xe
ignition / n my or my
oil / du or nht
petrol / xng
steering / iu khin xe or li xe
choke / ko le or ko e
oil change / thay du or thay nht
tighten / vn c or xit c
gear shift / sang s or vo s
1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4th gear
/ s 1, s 2, s 3, s 4
kick start / p n my or p my
doesnt work/is broken/has a problem
/ hng xe or h xe
strange sound / ting l or ku l
pump / bm lp or bm bnh xe
repair a puncture / v lp xe or v xe
Oil Change
Do this when your engine is hot, as hot oil drains out better (but dont burn your hands).
You can run your engine in neutral for a few minutes to heat up the engine first.
13
17
6
tyre
10
14
18
11
15
19
12
16
Insider
INSIDER
SUSTAINABILITY
Setting a Benchmark
Said to be the greenest building in Vietnam, Nick Ross and Julie Vola
take a look inside Hanois Green One UN House
A Sustainable Future
From green roofs and energy efficient
lighting and air conditioning, through
to draught-tolerant landscaping, every
aspect of sustainability seems to have been
thought of here. In a country with rising
air pollution issues, of particular note is
the use of non-toxic building materials.
Many building materials are made up of
low-volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) that
affect indoor air quality.
By choosing materials that have less
harmful components to human health, we
have created a more healthy level of indoor
air quality for our staff, says Louise. This
can reduce allergies and the risk of other
long-term health impacts.
Insider
INSIDER
HCMC
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Chops
The latest addition to The Strip in West Lake, gourmet burger joint Chops is making
the juices flow and the tongues wag. So, what does our anonymous restaurant reviewer
think? Photos by Julie Vola
THE VERDICT
13
FOOD
11
SERVICE
12
DCOR
HANOI
s staple as banh mi, bun cha is Hanoians regular choice for lunch, even dinner
or breakfast. Local people joke that if tourists miss bun cha during their first
visit to Hanoi, that trip doesnt count.
Tourist guidebooks suggest that the only place to get bun cha in Hanoi is Bun
Cha Hang Manh from the Dac Kim label. But this is far from the truth. Working from
the traditional recipe of pork grilled over charcoal in garlic-laced nuoc mam or fish sauce,
together with vermicelli and herbs, the various tastes and versions of bun cha offered by
hundreds of street-side eateries will definitely surprise you.
1) A Leafy Bite
Bun Cha Xuong Song
Intersection of Cho Gao, Nguyen Sieu and Dao
Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem
Price: VND30,000 per portion
Open for lunch
Like any street-side eatery, the smell of pork
grilled over charcoal really invokes a mouthwatering sensation for passers-by. And its
aroma is even more tempting thanks to la
xuong song or blumea lanceolaria one of the
herbs traditionally grown in the back yard
by families and used to treat cold and fever.
Vietnamese women in the countryside
often use this leaf or la lot (betel leaf) to
double up the flavour for the meat. And
enjoying the grilled pork wrapped in la
xuong song or la lot has been one of the
traditional ways for people to eat bun cha.
The pork meat at this eatery is not only
especially aromatic but also very rich,
flavourful and juicy within as the leaf
prevents the meat from coming into direct
contact with the coals. The sauce or nuoc
mam at this place is also very delicious, often
served warm, which is really a plus.
2) Golden Oldie
Bun Cha Duy Diem
140 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh
Price: VND40,000 per portion
Open for lunch
Known as one of the oldest bun cha shops
in Hanoi, Bun Cha Duy Diem, for some
people, is comparable with the mythical Bun
Cha Dac Kim. You can easily spot the eatery
on Ngoc Khanh Street from a distance as
theres a metal chimney attached to the grill
out front which billows an appealing smell
over the street. The highlight of the eatery
is their awesome grilled pork, both sliced
pieces and minced pork. Pork bellies are
carefully selected and minced pork is shaped
like short, small sausages, instead of pattyshaped. Its super sweet and juicy.
In my opinion, they make the best minced
pork in town. Another positive? Their crab
spring roll or nem cua be really rocks. Squareshaped, wrapped in crispy thin skin, the nem
tastes delicious with the pork fillings inside,
blended with the taste of mushrooms and
beansprouts.
If theres a downside, its that their nuoc
mam is Saigonese sweet. For people having
a sweet tooth like me, its still fine. However,
for many locals, thats simply not the way
that Hanoi bun cha is meant to be.
3) Skewer it Up
Bun Cha Co Truyen
Crossroads of Ba Trieu and Nguyen Du, opposite
the Pierre Cardin shop on Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung
Price: VND25,000 per portion
Open for lunch
4) In the Soup
Bun Cha Chan
114 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung
Price: VND 30,000 per bowl
Open for lunch
You may wonder how bun cha chan is
different from the normal bun cha, as
whenever eating bun cha, diners are already
served with a bowl of fish sauce, either
steaming or warm. Yet, instead of fish sauce
or nuoc mam, this is a new variation with a
bowl of broth. A hot bowl of bun cha chan
is topped with grilled pork, but instead of
patties or sliced meat, a big slab of grilled
minced pork is displayed on top, with fresh
herbs and vegetables. It is rumoured that
this variation originates from Bac Ninh
Province. While some people think that this
variation has a bland taste, younger people
regard it as interesting and delicious.
HCMC
Le Terroir
Laid back and unobtrusive, Le Terroir is one of those French restaurants that
nestles seamlessly into the Thai Van Lung area of Saigon. So, what does our
Mystery Diner think? Photos by Kyle Phanroy
THE VERDICT
12.5
FOOD
12
SERVICE
13.5
DCOR
HCMC
Travel
Rainbow
TRAVEL
NATIONAL
Going Deep
where the company started in the mid1990s. Nha Trang includes a marine
park around the island of Hon Mun, a
40-minute boat ride away. Established
in 2003, the park features great marine
life and a great value destination to do
a PADI training course. Best time to
dive: February to October
The Course
To obtain your Advanced Open Water
certificate you need to do five dives. There
are a couple of pre-dive theory quizzes
based on some course work, and several
challenging activities to complete on the boat
pre-entry. Two of the dives are mandatory,
and the other three are up to you. Deep
Water is the first mandatory dive and
takes you down to the sometimes nitrogen
narcosis-inducing depth of 30 metres.
Nitrogen narcosis sounds pretty serious, but
is something that professional divers will tell
you that they love. Its the effect of breathing
nitrogen at certain depths, and leaves you
feeling mildly but temporarily intoxicated.
My experience? Lets just say I was pretty
Cultural Experience
W HALE I SLAND
P HU Q UOC
C ON D AO
Travel
TRAVEL
NATIONAL
Making Tracks
the Long Way
With the help of a bicycle, walking shoes and a sketchbook, Ben Rubin draws
a new route through Vietnams Northern Frontier
Jungle Caravan
Jrn is a tour leader for Topas Travel, a
Danish international tour company that
specialises in adventure tourism. The
company began their work in Vietnam
more than 20 years ago, although they were
Jrn
Trang
Toa
Philip
Mang
Chao
Phu
Nu
Me
6
3
7
11
Day 1
Day 2
9
12
3
10
7
12
1
10
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Tran Phu to Tu Le
85km
Tu Le to Mu Cang Chai
50km
10
12
2
4
am Indigo Girls
pm Up Up and Away!
pm Roadway Rollercoasting
pm Highland Hilltops
7
10
3
11
12
2
4
9
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
9
11
3
6
6
10
2
5
Travel
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
fortuna.vn
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
contact@hoteldelopera.com
dalattrainvilla.com
M M M
HANOI
INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST
INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 5555
hanoi-daewoohotel.com
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden Inn
property in Southeast Asia.
Centrally located and a short
stroll from the historic Old
Quarter, the hotel offers a full
service restaurant, a stylish
bar, along with complimentary business and fitness
centres making it perfect for
the international business or
leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA
1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
INTERCONTINENTAL
HANOI WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
hanoi.intercontinental.com
jwmarriotthanoi.com
maydeville.com
meliahanoi.com
moevenpick-hanoi.com
pullman-hanoi.com
sheraton.com/hanoi
sofitel.com
M M M
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
sixonsixteen.com
goldensilkhotel.com
minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese
cuisine.
JOSEPHS HOTEL
$$
5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3938 1048
josephshotel.com
Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes
comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or
Vietnamese breakfasts. All
the modern amenities at
reasonable prices.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA
HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
M M M
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS
HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
hanoibackpackershostel.com
M M M
HCMC
INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
equatorial.com/hcm
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
intercontinental.com/saigon
LE MRIDIEN SAIGON
$$$$
3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 6263 6688
lemeridien.com/saigon
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
saigon.park.hyatt.com
pullmanhotels.com
riverside-apartments.com
renaissance-saigon.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup
or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
sofitel.com
windsorplazahotel.com
M M M
HCMC DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
norfolkhotel.com.vn
novotel-saigon-centre.com
villasong.com
lanlanhotel.com.vn
alcovehotel.com.vn
M M M
HCMC BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
dunahotel.com
honghoavn.com
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
M M M
HOI AN & DANANG
AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
anbangbeachretreat.com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
danangbeachresort.com.vn
furamavietnam.com
danang.regency.hyatt.com
pullman-danang.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
mercure-danang.com
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
starcitysaigon.vn
M M M
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
Front Beach
A Seafood Paradise
By Don Wills
ENTRY 1:
Vung Tau
Beauty in Spades
Apart from the peace and quiet, what else
does Vung Tau have to offer that might
attract an expat? Well, for one thing, natural
beauty. Vung Tau has it in spades. Back
Beach is three kilometres of sand and safe
swimming, with around 50 medium-tohigh-priced hotels nearby to choose from.
Front Beach, where the hydrofoils disgorge
their passengers, is more commercial, with
ships of all sizes and descriptions anchored
in the bay, and towered over by not one but
two mountains (hills really, but dont tell the
people hereabouts they dont have many
mountains to boast of in southern Vietnam).
Clinging to the sides of the mountains are a
number of glittering Buddhist temples, and
standing atop Small Mountain is a statue of
Jesus with outstretched arms. Though not
as famous as Rios, Vung Taus Jesus is two
metres taller. A cable car makes its way up to
the summit of Big Mountain, where theres a
smallish, rather neglected amusement park.
Great views, though.
Front beach is where the action is, but
dont get excited by that word action
by big-city standards its pretty tame.
The beach is fringed by a strip of hotels,
bars, restaurants and coffee shops, with
a sprinkling of discos, karaoke bars and
massage parlours. Theres even a small
Travel
M M M
M M M
ghmhotels.com
angsana.com/en/lang_co
banyantree.com/en/lang_co
laresidencehue.com
sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination
sheraton.com/nhatrang
M M M
PHAN THIET & MUI NE
NINH CHU BAY BEACH
CLUB & BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
junglebeachvietnam.com
mianhatrang.com
novotel-nhatrang.com
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7111
cocobeach.net
joescafemuine.com
miamuine.com
victoriahotels.asia
M M M
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE
BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
phong-nha-homestay.com
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
M M M
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island,
Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SALINDA RESORT PHU
QUOC ISLAND
$$$$
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To
Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien
Giang
Tel: (08) 3929 3097
Hotline 0907 99 55 02
salindaresort.com
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
M M M
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
topasecolodge.com
M M M
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM
BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
condaoresort.vn
hotramresort.com
sanctuary.com.vn
rexhotelvungtau.com
sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM
STRIP
Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
M M M
TRAVEL
SERVICES HANOI
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
(BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
buffalotours.com.vn
exotravel.com
handspan.com
hgtravel.com
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
kien@travelsense.asia
M M M
TRAVEL
SERVICES HCMC
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh
City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170
buffalotours.com
exotravel.com
flightravelco.com
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward
4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08)
3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
M M M
TRAVEL SERVICES
ELSEWHERE
BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
DAY 188
Itanagar
Not a lot here, except that awesome city
name much the reason why I came.
Itanagar. Tolkienesque.
DAY 191
Bomdi La
Crazy fog. Im finally going up into the
proper Himalayas and I can barely
see my hands in front of me. Driving so
carefully then a crazy Sumo (jeep)
flies out from behind a curve. No luck
braking on the wet road. Wheel slipped,
I took a bad fall. Bastard didnt even
stop.
Poor Nemo. Maan, that bike took such
a beating on these roads already. And
me, also.
DAY 192
Up to the Mountains
Ive gone above the mountain tops,
above the clouds. And the song of the
day is Pink Floyds Learning to Fly.
Got an excited grin under my khau
trang and Im a long way from Hanoi.
And there are vividly colourful,
moss-covered meadows all around
and the strangest looking cows..?
Yaks? Mithuns? No idea what it is
something between a cow and a bear.
But big. Elephant-big. And furry.
DAY 201
Maintenance
Assams Tezpur. Thanks to Indian (Sikh,
DAY 203
The Treehouse
Whoa. Laos Gibbon Experience meets Dao
Anh Khanhs Studio in the middle of the
Assamese jungle. Theres a monkey on
the roof, Im told to watch out for snakes
and occasional tigers coming to visit
from Meghalaya what an awesome
place I get to stay at for those next few
days.
DAY 205
An interplanetary diversion
A planetarium in North East India?
Why not. At 30 rupees a ticket its not
quite Chicagos Adler Planetarium
where I used to hang out in college,
but I just love flying through the stars.
DAY 209
Obnoxiousville Pradesh
Getting dark and I found a quiet,
completely secluded spot to camp,
halfway on my drive to Sikkim. But
those people they just appear out of
thin air.
A guy drunken off his mind
wont leave me alone for 20 minutes.
Eventually got rid of him, but I just
know its not the end of it. Its a pitchblack middle of nowhere and sure
enough, 15 minutes later an entire
friggin village congregates around.
A delegation of elders surrounds
me; three generations of women and
children looking on from the road.
And theyre intent on me moving
who knows why? My negotiation
attempts fall flat, Im not happy
at all and theyre not interested in
leaving without me. So without
much of a choice, I leave my camp
behind and follow a pack of complete
strangers who-knows-where though
a pitch-black forest illuminated
only (in different circumstances
quite romantically) by fireflies. I feel
vulnerable and this once, I do hope
theyre just merely being overbearing
Indians.
For more on Matts films and travels,
check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog
at etheriumsky.com/prodblog
Hanoi
Day Tripper: Hanoi / Book Buff / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / Medical Buff
Photo by Duy Khanh
Hanoi
Essentials
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH
A-ROAMING
BODYWORKER
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth
M M M
BOOKSHOPS
BBGV
Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office
Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3934 8681
bbgv.org
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
ASSOCIATION VIETNAM
Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
sbav-hanoi.org
M M M
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
M M M
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
4th Floor, InterContinental
Hanoi,
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3934 2790
amchamhanoi.com
AUSCHAM
4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai
Ba Trung
Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
M M M
CLUBS & SOCIETIES
vphanoi-lespace.com
M M M
CLOTHING
BOO SKATESHOP
THREE TREES
SKATESHOP
JEWELLERY
booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
HANOI INTERNATIONAL
THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
thehanoiclub.com
HANOI OIS
NETBALL CLUB
hanoinetball@gmail.com
LESPACE
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
goethe.de/hanoi
hanoicookingcentre.com
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
M M M
METISEKO
LATELIER
ateliervietnam.com
metiseko.com
AIR ASIA
airasia.com
COOKING CENTRE
AIRLINES
COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CLASSES
EVENT SPACE
GOETHE INSTITUT
M M M
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and
made-to-fit clothing.
AMERICAN CLUB
AIR FRANCE
airfrance.com.vn
CATHAY PACIFIC
cathaypacific.com/vn
CHINA AIRLINES
china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
jetstar.com/vn/en
KOREAN AIR
koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
laoairlines.com
BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
MALAYSIA
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com
SINGAPORE
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and
accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
THAI AIRWAYS
thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
vietjetair.com
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi
Essentials
M M M
CYCLING
DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
Dons-bistro.com
GREEN BIKE
thbc.vn
M M M
DENTAL CARE
AUSTRALIAN
DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
australiandentalclinic.com
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
peacedentalclinic.wordpress.
com
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL
DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
serenitydentalclinic.com
westcoastinternational.com
artvietnamgallery.com
facebook.com/manzihanoi
nhasanstudio.org
vnfam.vn
workroomfour.com
M M M
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
Daloc.vn
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP
Hanoigourmet.com
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
kitchenart.vn
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
naturallyvietnam.com
ANNAM GOURMET
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
HOSPITALS
& MEDICAL CLINICS
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC
CLINIC (ACC)
CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS
HAIRDRESSERS
& SALONS
bumrungrad.vn
HAIR SALON
The Manor,
Me Tri Street,
My Dinh, Tu Liem
Tel: (04) 3787 5500
INDOCHINA
PLAZA
LOTTE CENTER
JAPAN INTERNATIONAL
EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)
INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL
32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3715 3666
jieh.vn
lottecenter.com.vn
PARKSON
parkson.com.vn
PICO MALL
SYRENA
SHOPPING
CENTER
vietnammedicalpractice.com
DINH HAIR SALON
GARDEN
SHOPPING
CENTER
BUMRUNGRAD
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
warehouse-asia.com
M M M
SHOPPING
MALLS
acc.vn/en
WINE RETAILER
GROCERIES / DELI
M M M
RED APRON
WOMENS HAIRDRESSER
M M M
GALLERIES
hfh.com.vn
TRANG TIEN
PLAZA
trangtienplaza.vn
VINCOM
CITY TOWERS
VINCOM
ROYAL CITY
hongngochospital.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS
24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC
Internationalsos.com
vinmec.com
M M M
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
insuranceinasia.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang
Quoc Viet, Cau Giay
Tel: (04) 3755 7111
libertyinsurance.com.vn
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL
INSURANCE
5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly
Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0966 857 488
M M M
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bishanoi.com
A selective, independent,
co-educational day school.
Provides a British-style
education following the
National Curriculum for England, with students taking
IGCSE and A Level. Pending
authorization, will offer the
IB programme from 2016
onwards.
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
hisvietnam.com
isvietnam.org
kinderworld.net/sis
Provides an international
education for students from
primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the
Singaporean and Vietnamese
curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all
taught by qualified teachers.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)
G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
M M M
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
& REPAIRS
ANH DUNG
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
M M M
PROPERTY RENTALS
FAIR REAL ESTATE
RENTALS
fair-realestate.com
gialonghousing.com
HANOI RENTING
RENTALS
hanoirenting.com
LANLINH PROPERTY
RENTALS
houseinhanoi.com
VIETLONG HOUSING
RENTALS
vietlonghousing.com
M M M
RELOCATION AGENTS
ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
kinderworld.net
hanoi.qsi.org
Known for its fabric market, Ninh Hiep also has a long tradition of weaving and medicinal
herbs. Jesse Meadows makes the 20km trip out to this small village in Gia Lam
Getting There
Go north across the Chuong Duong bridge.
Stay straight until you cross a second
bridge, and the road becomes Ha Huy
Tap. Turn right onto Ninh Hiep. Roadside
fabric stalls will come into view ask
where the market is.
BOOK BUFF
IN SEARCH OF PERFECTION AND FAMILY
This month
Bookworms Truong
looks at work that
focuses on the
family and family
relationships
Normal Abnormality
The vagaries of family relationships were a
common theme in Elizabeth Jolleys novels,
mainly set in an upper-middle-class suburb
in Perth, Australia. The Orchard Thieves deals
with three generations over a six-month
time frame. Adult males are not included.
Although none of her characters in the
slim novel are named referred to by their
place in the family or, in the case of two
rambunctious young boys, as rogues
they carry echoes of people in many of our
own families.
In Jolleys gothic-tinted world it is
entirely normal to be abnormal. In a review
of her work, the New York Times described
her adult characters as often misfits, often
lonely, slightly dotty, gently murderous,
and occasionally monstrous. In The
Orchard Thieves, her well-worn themes of
alienation, marginalization and unrequited
longing, as the New York Times called them,
are played out. A lot of us will recognize
ourselves in our relationships with other
family members as we read about the
mother, the unmarried elder daughter, the
married middle daughter with sons, the
youngest prodigal daughter who returns
from overseas to the family home and
orchard, bereft and pregnant. Its she who
scatters seeds of discord until the birth of a
new female into the family allows tentative
bonds to be retied and retested, and
redemption and forgiveness shyly offered.
After Jolleys death at 83 in 2006,
researchers assumed that many of the
mother-daughter relationships in her novels
were influenced by those between the
author and her strict Austrian mother in
Depression-era England.
Flawed Decency
Almost Tyleresque because it deals with
ordinariness in middle-class families,
gently acknowledging their dysfunctional
qualities, is Bonnie Burnards A Good House.
Hanoi
jvkasia.com
Essentials
MMM
SPORTS, FITNESS
& YOGA
ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE
elitefitness.com.vn
agsfourwinds.com
SANTA FE
RELOCATION SERVICES
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
nshapefitness.vn
STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS
zenithyogavietnam.com
VIETCLIMB
SPORTSWEAR
& EQUIPMENT
vietclimb.vn
bosua.vn
hanoisport.vn
M M M
BOO SKATESHOP
studio5.vn
CLIMBING CENTRE
6273 3095
BIG C
SCORE-TECH
44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net
UMOVE TRAVEL
AND OUTDOORS
TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
ADIDAS FOOTBALL
FOOTBALL & SPORTS
SUPERMARKETS
umove.com.vn
bigc.vn
CITIMART
Ground Floor,
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
FIVIMART
27A Ly Thai To,
Hoan Kiem
INTIMEX
22-23 Le Thai To,
Hoan Kiem
METRO THANG
LONG
Pham Van Dong,
Co Nhue, Tu Liem,
Tel: (04) 3755 1617
metro.com.vn
THE THERAPIST
INFIDELITY
Dear Douglas,
I am a Vietnamese woman
who is married to a
foreigner. We have been
together for three years. A
few months ago, when I was
pregnant with our second
baby my husband cheated
on me for one month with
a woman in a town where
he travels to. He admitted
he was wrong to do this but
I cannot forgive him, and
many times have gotten
so angry at him that I feel
crazy. I cannot control
myself when I think of what
he did and now I dont trust
him. We loved each other
very much before, but now
I dont know if I love him
or want him in my life. We
both know it is not fair to
the children to break up
but we are having a really
hard time staying together.
What should I do?
Hurting
Dear Hurting,
I am glad that you are
seeking support because it
is very difficult to manage
all of these feelings and
find your way through to
the best solution. It is also
good that you both realize
that the childrens needs
are a top priority they
are depending on both of
you to offer them a good
childhood.
When people learn that
their relationship has been
violated, when someone
cheats, it creates a crisis that
breaks the bonds of trust.
Trust is the foundation of a
close relationship. A crisis is
a period of intense feelings
when what we know to
be true is disrupted, and
everything feels like it is
breaking apart. You have
gone through this and now
you are trying to find a way
to have the broken pieces fit
back together and for trust
to be restored. It is difficult
and takes some time.
Here are some guidelines
BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA
next three months and see
if things can change. That
means not going back to
what happened, but living
day by day with what is
happening now.
5) Ask your husband to
make amends. This means
that he does extra things
to show you that he really
is sorry and realizes that
he has made a big mistake.
When you see he is trying, it
can help you to feel like he
understands your feelings
and his commitment to you.
6) Trust and forgiveness
are important but cannot be
forced to happen. At some
point it becomes more and
more a choice, and while you
might not feel that you trust
him 100%, you can offer to
trust him more and more.
Try not to withhold trust for
too long because of anger
(righteous indignation). It
is important to move slowly
towards trust and, at some
point, you may discover that
you can forgive. This can
take a year or more.
7) It may be that you will
find the connection that can
keep your relationship alive
or maybe not. Because you
have children you have the
responsibility to try, for their
sake. If you break up, be sure
that the childrens needs
are considered and that
they have a life with access
and care from both of their
parents.
I recommend that
you get support from a
psychotherapist for the next
few months, for you or both
you and your husband, to
help you with the process
of overcoming the crisis and
weathering the storm of your
relationship.
I wish you the best.
Douglas
Do you have a question
you would like Douglass help
with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com.
Personal details will not be
printed
Hanoi
On the Town
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
EDEN HANOI
MADAKE
SIDEWALK HANOI
facebook.com/edengargen
88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
88group.vn
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT
linkhanoi.com
cama-atk.com
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
facebook.com/madakehanoi
facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room
facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi
facebook.com/Nest.
Lounge.09XuanDieu
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range
bar and eatery showing
live sport and boasting a
convivial atmosphere. Has
a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts,
daily specials and a popular
second-floor outdoor terrace.
THE ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
therooftop.vn
tracyspub.com
vuvuzela.com.vn
CAFES
ANNAM CAFE
DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
coffeebean.com
BAR STOOL
RESS
House of Fun
The chilled-out, artsy vibe of the bar helped
make a drizzly, cold Saturday night fun
and relaxing; although it seemed somewhat
Only Connect
Trung, one of the owners, tells me that the
concept for the bar is a place to relax and
connect with people and cultures from all
over the world. He wants anyone to be able
to come in, hang out and be comfortable,
just like in their own homes.
He means it, too if you want to
decorate, go right ahead. Patrons are
allowed to paint, graffiti, or otherwise
artistically vandalise the walls in the
courtyard and on the third floor, because
as Trung says, This is your house... when
you come back, you will see your artwork
again.
RESS has been open for five months,
although it still feels new. The name stands
for Reunion of Every Single Star, and is
reminiscent of the word rest, which is what
the bar is all about. It really does have all of
the comforts of home, except my home is
not nearly as cool. Ill definitely be back.
Kate Robinson
RESS is located at 111 Trinh Cong Son, Tay
Ho, Hanoi
COFFEE CUP
THE CHURCH
Steeped
The tea was bright and crisp, steeped with
house-made syrup and fresh ingredients,
and they brought the honey on the side.
Instead of a spoon to stir the honey, it came
with a stalk of fresh lemongrass, which I
thought was a lovely touch, and as soon as
I had finished the clear pot of tea a waiter
appeared to refill it with hot water. They get
the details right at The Church.
Yet amid all this elegance there are brief
moments of unpretentious personality, some
good, others less so: a bartender juggling
limes in his silk waistcoat; a waiter leaning
his head against the speaker but listening to
a hip-hop tune on his phone, louder than the
tinkling background piano music; several
mosquitos floating around nearby that
somehow didnt bite me (perhaps they were
after richer blood); the restroom, which is
Hanoi
On the Town
congcaphe.com
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
highlandscoffee.com.vn
JOMA
COFFEE/BAKERY
joma.biz
HANOI COOKING
CENTRE CAF
VIETNAMESE CAF
PUKU
MANZI ARTSPACE
ARTS CAF & GALLERY
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
LIFESTYLE CAFE
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
facebook.com/manzihanoi
COURTYARD CAFE
MOC CAFE
YOLO
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops
Boasting an abundance of
communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances,
this rollicking caf-slash-bar
has quickly earned a place in
the hearts of Hanois young
and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly
zenithyogavietnam.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
alfrescogroup.com
AMATO
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
A Brazilian churrascaria
offering all-you-can-eat
grilled meat and seafood on
the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodzio fashion, waiters
bring cuts of meat to the
table for patrons to pick and
choose, all for a set price.
They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la
carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas.
ASAHI SUSHI
SUSHI RESTAURANT
asahisushi.vn
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
CHOPS
GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER
chopsvietnam.com
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
daluva.com
Dons-bistro.com
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
elgaucho.com.vn
foodshop45.com
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
TOP-END GRILL
facebook.com/frenchgrill
greentangerinehanoi.com
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you
as you walk into this French
era-built villa that houses the
main section of this Indochi-
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
alfrescogroup.com
An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus
on steak. Has three floors all
with different vibes, the kind
of slick service youd expect
from the Al Frescos Group
and an extensive wine list.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
alfrescosgroup.com
koto.com.au
labadiane-hanoi.com
LA BICICLETA
BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO
thbc.vn
linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
CLASSIC ITALIAN
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
lasalsa-hanoi.com
lunadautunno.vn
PAN-CHINESE
fortuna.vn
verticale-hanoi.com
MILLENIUM-CAF DES
ARTS
PAN-FRENCH
cafe-des-arts.com
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN
RESTAURANT
TOP EATS
SALMONOID
Not Overwhelmed
Youd think Id want anything but salmon
at this point, but when those fresh, raw
slices melt in your mouth, the sauce variety
keeps things interesting, and all the dishes
are so distinctly different, its hard to get
bored. We ended this salmon feast with
a surprise dessert creme brle with a
layer of smashed lotus hiding underneath
MEDICAL BUFF
SNAKE BITES
What to Do
Reassure the victim.
Lay the victim down, and if possible
immobilize the bitten limb with a splint
or sling and keep it below heart level.
By keeping still, you can limit muscular
contraction therefore decreasing the
absorption of venom into the blood stream.
Remove rings, watches and
constrictive clothing in case of swelling.
If possible, try to remember what the
snake looked like; size, colour and type if
you know it, to advise the doctor once you
reach a medical facility. Do not attempt to
catch or kill the snake. It is important to
note that a severed snakehead can still bite
and inject venom.
BY ALI CANNON
What Not to Do
Do not apply a tourniquet to the injured
limb. This can cause extreme pain and
permanent vascular damage to the limb.
Do not attempt to suck out the venom.
Do not attempt to make cuts or
incisions around the bite.
Do not interfere with or vigorously
wash the wound.
By sticking to this simple guide you
could save the life of yourself or someone
around you that has been bitten.
Ali Cannon (RGN) is the clinic manager
of International SOS Hanoi. For information
or assistance call (04) 3934 0666 (Hanoi),
(08) 3829 8520 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (064)
385 8776 (Vung Tau). Alternatively, click on
internationalsos.com
Hanoi
On the Town
mooseandroo.com
PANE E VINO
THE CART
PAN-ITALIAN
facebook.com/panevinoHN
thecartfood.com
namastehanoi.com
nineteen11.com.vn
hanoixua.vn/en
BUN BO NAM BO
BUN BO NAM BO
THE KAFE
PIZZA 4PS
JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT
pizza4ps.com
PAN-INDIAN
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
POTS N PANS
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
potsnpans.vn
hanoi-pressclub.com
thekafe.vn
MY VAN THAN
WONTON NOODLES
PHO CUON
wrap-roll.com
zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe
STREETFOOD
PHO GA BA LAM
PHO GA
3 CHI EM
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
sainthonore.com.vn
PHO TU LUN
PHO BO
hieu
Nh a
tC
LAC L
ONG Q
UAN
o
Ve H
UA
N
NG
Q
LO
LA
C
hP
huc
BUOI
DUONG
V in
O
VAN C
A
Doc Ngu
KIM MA
LA
TH
m
P ha
Huy
T ho
Bao
Van Phuc
Ngoc Khanh
Bus Station
ng
AN
H
La Than
h
gH
a
ng
Chua La
Lan
WINTER CLOTHINGS
Hang Da D4
Thuy Le
Lake
V an
LIQUORS
Nha Tho D4
TAN
WEDDING SERVICES
Hang Than C4
GIAY
e Binh
Doi Can
LIEU G
IA
LACQUERS
Can Go D4, D5
Thuy Le
Park
C AU
DAO
Phan
K
THA
NH
TOYS
Luong Van Can D4
Ven Ho
TH
AM
Kim Ma Thuo
uong
ang
FLOWERS
Quang An Market A3
Kh
an
hT
oa
HO
A
an
Doi Can
Linh L
SWEETS
Hang Buom D4
en
FASHION STORES
Hang Dao D4
uy
CHI
STATIONERY
Hang Can D4
Ng
YEN
EVERYTHING
Dong Xuan Market C4
NG
an
Dong Quan
NGU
SPORTSWEAR
Hang Dau D5
CAU
GIAY
GIA
AY
HO
A
Doi Nhan
Quan Hoa
CRAFTS
Hang Trong D4
UOI
SILVERS
Hang Bac D4
hi
GB
COOKING INGREDIENTS
Tay Ho Weekend Market A2
Vo
ng
T
Sai
Th
uy
Kh
ue
DUO
N
SILKS
Hang Gai D4
Trich
am
COMPUTERS
Ly Nam De D4
an
Ho
a
SECONDHAND SHOES
Nguyen Khanh Toan D1
Dam Tr
an
gH
COBBERS
Hang Dong D4
TU
LIEM
Qu
PLANTS
Hoang Hoa Tham C1, C2
Qu
CERAMICS
Hang Khoai C4
ang
Ton
Ngoc Khanh
MOBILE PHONES
Dang Dung C4
n Ho
Sai
BEDDINGS
Hang Dieu D4
Ngu
ye
h
Tric
MECHANICS
Hang Chao D3
ng
Nguyen Ho
BAMBOO
Hang Vai D4
C4
D1
E5
D4, E4
C3, C4
E5
D1
C4
C5, D5
C4
C1
D4
C1, D1
D4, E4
C3
B2
A2
E4
D3
B4
B4
D3
D4
C4
A2
E1, E2
C3
D4, E4
D4
C2, C3
A2
D3, E3
D5
D4
E4
E4, E5
D2
E5
D5
D4, D3
C4, D5
E4
C3
D4
E5
B1, C2
D3
C4
B3
D2
C2
D3
D2
A1
C2, C3
D5
B1
D3, D2
A3
A1
C4
B3, C4
E4
La
E4
B4
B3
D3
C4
A3
D4
E4
D5, E5
E5
D5
D4
A2, B2
D3
D4, D3
D2
D3
E5
D1
D5, D4
C4
E1
D3
D5
E5
C4
C4
D4
E4
C4
C3
B2
E5
D3
D1
D4, D3
D2
D5
D4
D5, D4
D3
A5
D3
D3, D2
C1
C4, D4
D1, C1
D1
D4
C4
D5, D4
D3
D3, D2
D4, E4, E5
E4
D5
D4
D4
E4, E5
D5
D4
C4
D4
D4
C4
D4
D4
C4, D5
D4
D4
D4
D4
D4
C4
C4, D4
D4
D5
D4
D4
C4
D5
D5
an
Xu
19 - 12
An Duong
An Thanh 1
An Trach
An Xa
Au Co
Au Trieu
Ba Trieu
Bach Dang
Bach Dang
Bao Linh
Bat Su
Ben Nhat Ban
Bich Cau
Cao Ba Quat
Cao Nam
Cat Linh
Cau Dat
Cau Giay
Cau Go
Chau Long
Chua Lang
Chua Mot Cot
Chuong Duong Do
Co Tam
Co Xa
Cua Bac
Cua Nam
Da Tuong
Dang Dung
Dang Tat
Dang Thai Mai
Dang Thai Than
Dang Tran Con
Dao Tan
Dien Bien Phu
Dinh Cong
Dinh Le
Dinh Liet
Dinh Tien Hoang
Doan Thi Diem
Doc Lan
Doc Lap
Doi Can
Dong Quan
Dong Xuan
Duong Buoi
Duong Quan Ham
Duong Thanh
Gam Cau
Gia Ngu
Giang Van Minh
GianG Vo
Hai Ba Trung
Ham Long
Ham Tu Quan
Hang Can
Hang Bac
Hang Bai
Hang Be
Hang Bong
Hang Bun
Hang Buom
Hang Chieu
Hang Cot
Hang Da
Hang Dao
Hang Dau
Hang Dieu
Hang Dong
Hang Duong
Hang Ga
Hang Gai
Hang Khoai
Hang Luoc
Hang Ma
Hang Nam
Hang Ngang
Hang Non
Hang Than
Hang Thung
Hang Tre
D4
D4
D5
D3, E2
E4
E3
D3
C1, C2, C3
C1
C3
C4
C3
D3
D2, D1
D1
E3, E2, E1, D1
A1, B1
E2
D4, E4
D3
D5
D5
D5
D4
E5
D2
D1
D5
D4
D4
D4
E4, E5
D3
D5
D4
B3
C4
D4
E4
C3, D3
D2
B5
C4
C3
D1, E1
D2
C1
A1
E1
C4
D1
D5
D4, D3
D4, D3
D4
C5
D1
D4
D4
A1
D2
A3
D3
Du
on
g
Hanoi
Map
1
Hang Trong
Hang Vai
Hang Voi
Hao Nam
Hoa Lo
Hoa Nam
Hoang Dieu
Hoang Hoa Tham
Hoang Quoc Viet
Hoang Van Thu
Hoe Nhai
Hung Vuong
Khuc Hao
Kim Ma
Kim Ma Thuong
La Thanh
Lac Long Quan
Lang Ha
Le Duan
Le Hong Phong
Le Lai
Le Phung Hieu
Le Thach
Le Thai To
Le Thanh Tong
Lieu Giai
Linh Lang
Lo Su
Luong Van Can
Ly Nam De
Ly Quoc Su
Ly Thuong Kiet
Ly Van Phuc
Ma May
Nam Ngu
Nghi Tam
Nghia Dung
Ngo Tram
Ngo Van So
Ngoc Ha
Ngoc Khanh
Ngoc Thuy
Nguyen Bieu
Nguyen Canh Chan
Nguyen Chi Thanh
Nguyen Cong Hoan
Nguyen Dinh Hoan
Nguyen Hoang Ton
Nguyen Hong
Nguyen Khac Nhu
Nguyen Khanh Toan
Nguyen Khiet
Nguyen Khuyen
Nguyen Thai Hoc
Nguyen Tri Phuong
Nguyen Tu Gian
Nguyen Van Ngoc
Nha Chung
Nha Tho
Nhat Chieu
Nui Truc
Nuoc Phan Lan
Ong Ich Khiem
TThanh Cong
Giang
Vo
Lake
3
Qu
ang
Ba
Quang An
Market
an
Xu
C
AU
LLONG
ONG BIEN
Die
u
Ho
Tay
oc
Nu
an
Ph
Thai M
ai
n
La
Tu
Ho
a
huy
Co
ng
Ch
u
Dang
cT
Ng o
TA
TA
AY
Y HO
n
An
nh 1
T ha
An
M
I TA
Phu
Yen
NGH
A
ng
Q ua
Duo
ng
West
Lake
Ngo 78
Ngoc
Tan
Ap
Cau
Da
Quyen
Co
Tam
uy Ch
u
Trung
Tr
T R AN
HUNG | February 2016 Word | 161
wordvietnam.com
Lon
DAO
g
Ham
Phan H
inh Tr
Ba Tr
ieu
So
Hang B
ai
Da Tu
ong
19 - 1
2
Hoa L
o
Ngo
Bat Su
Hang Do
ng
Thuoc B
ac
De
Ly Nam
Hung
Phung
Boi Ch
au
Quan
Su
Quang
Van
ai Than
Dang Th
ang
Bach D
Ng o
ng
Su
Manh
Ly Th
uong
Kiet
DU
uoc T
oan
Pham
ien
Trang T
Opera
House
ao
N gu L
Tran B
Nh
uo
UNG D m
AO
Hai B
a Tru
H
KHAN
on g
Th
o
Pham
Can
Tri Phu
ong
Hooaang Dieu
Nguyen
Phan
HO
OAN
AN KIEM
TRAN
LE DUAN
Hieu
ong
anh T
Le Th
Yet K
ie
Mieu
V an
Hang
H an
g Bu
Yen
Nin
h
Chau Lo
ng
Cua Ba
c
Dang Dun
g
Nguyen Bie
Chan Dang
Tat
Doc La
p
Khuc Ha
o
Tran
Con
Dang
g Do
Duon
Dan
Tong
DUC
THA
NG
g
Dan
oi
gV
i To
TON
h
Bac
Ha
Han
Trinh
Ly Va
n Ph
Hoai
Bich
uc
Duc
Cau
n
Q ua
ng
Chuo
g
Le Phun
Dinh
Le
Trang
Tien
ng
Tu
Ham
Le Lai
Le Thach
Tan
g
Von
Lo Su
a
Ly Th
Thung
Hang
e
Hoan
Kiem
Lake
Phu
c
g Tr
H an
ang
Dinh Tien Ho
ang
g
Chun
Nha
Hao N
am
Hang Mam
Gia Nggu
Hang Dau
inh
n Khie
Nguye
Hang Be
n
Tro
Le Thai To
g
Han
r
Au T
Dinh Liet
Dao
Hang
n
n Ca
g Va
Luon
Ga i
L
Bao
Ma May
Ta Hien
ng
N ga
Hang
Can
Hang
Hang Bac
Cau Go
Dinh Tien
Ho
H
ian
Buom
Hang
ONG
G DU
N
O
CHU
CAU
AI
KH
Ca
Tran
Q
Duong
Phu Doan
TRAN
H
Dong Xuan
Market
Hang Chieu
Hang
u
oc S
g
Han
Ly Qu
ong
Hai B
a Tru
Ly Th
uong
Kie
Cha
nh
Nam Ngu
gB
H an
Quan
Su
Van Chuong
Lake
am
Cua N
Hanoi Train
Train
Station
on
Hang Da
Tha
en Th
ai Ho
c
Cua Nam
Market
Linh Quang
Lake
Hang Dieu
hanh
u
Lie
La
Nguy
Tan
uy
gD
Ton
i
hoa
Hang Bo
ng T
D uo
uy
DONG D
DA
A
Vietnam National
Academy of Music
Hang N
BIEN
Long Bien
Train
rain Station
au
Quat
Hang
Tram
Ngo
Tran Ph
u
Nguye
n Khuy
en
Giam
Hang Vai
Leather
Market
Vietnam Fine
Arts Museum
Cao B
a Qua
t
om
Nhu
Tho
nH
iem
Q uo
c Tu
Hang Ma
u
Ph
Tra
Thi D
I HOC
Dau
C
Gam
ien
nB
D ie
Doan
anh
Chi Lang
Park
ao
Cat Lin
NGUY
EN TH
A
g Ch
Kim Ma
Bus Station
An Trach
Vu
Th
hong
Tran Ph
u
Han
Vo
ng
Gia
Le Hong
P
Hang
Hang Ga
m
Na
Dinh C
ong
Tru
o
Ca
Chua Mo
t Cot
Son Tay
KIM MA
ai
an
Xu
ng
Do
u oc
gL
Han
Hang CCot
o
Ngoc H
BA DINH
c
Tru
NG
Nh
gK
Han
Ho Chi Minh
Mausoleum
Doi Can
e
Ho
Hoang Va
n Thu
Ha
Long Bien
Market Long Bien
Bus Station
c
G
Phu
AN
QU
AN
TR
Museum
PHAN D
INH PHU
G
LON
CAU
uG
nT
uy e
Ng
Tan
Hung Vuo
ng
Hanoi
Palace
han
Hang T
AM
TH
A
Bach Thao
HO
NG
OA Ho Chi Minh Park
Ng
oc
Quan Thanh
Thuy Khue
Nguyen Can
h
o
nH
Ng
uy e
nK
Pha
h
mH
ong ac Nh
T ha
u
i
Xa
An
a
cX
P hu
Ve
i
Nu
Quan Thanh
Temple Tran Vu
Khue
YE
NP
HU
Chin
Truc
ruc Bach
Lake
Th u y
Ng
hia
Du
Co
n
Xa g
D uc
Th
an
hN
ie n
Bac
h
9
So
Pho
Tru
c
Thuy
1
So
i
Nu
ke
DO
CV
AN
Tay Ho Weekend
Market
Van
goc
To N
Dam Tri
Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Coffee Cup / Amazing Grapes /
Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good
Photo by Francis Xavier
HCMC
Essentials
BAKERIES
ABC BAKERY
BAKERY & CAF
phamngulao.abcbakery.co
HARVEST BAKING
AMERICAN BAKERY
harvestbaking.net
lamourbakery.com.vn
TOUS LES JOURS
BAKERY & CAFE
touslesjoursbakery.com
pnc.com.vn
M M M
VOELKER
BAKERY
voelker-vietnam.com
M M M
breadtalkvietnam.com
Thanh Ton, Q1
BOOKSHOPS
FAHASA
VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE
BOOKSTORE
fahasa.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
GROUP
6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
M M M
CLOTHING &
ACCESSORIES
BUSINESS GROUPS
ANUPA ECO LUXE
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE (AMCHAM)
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am
to 8pm
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER
OF COMMERCE
(AUSCHAM)
2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
bbgv.org
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE (CANCHAM)
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS
GROUP VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SKATEWEAR / STREET
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG
PLAZA
PARKSON PLAZA
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES
ipa-nima.com
LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
SHOPPING
MALLS
lusinespace.com
SAIGON CENTRE
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
ZEN PLAZA
BUSINESS BUFF
EXPENSIVE FAST FOOD
s my ample belly
will attest I do like
to eat and while of
late I have tried to
eat in a more healthy way,
the sweet siren call of fast
food (and the growing list of
options of in Ho Chi Minh City)
is making the battle a difficult
one. That being said, over a
delicious burger and fries this
month I looked into some of
the fancier and more expensive
fast food options around the
world. No surprises most
come from our obese cousins
in the US.
Fleur Burger
US$5000 / VND112.5 million
In the town of excess, Las
Vegas, Fleur Restaurants Fleur
Burger 5000 is made from
Japanese Wagyu beef and foie
gras. Its sauce is made from
truffles and shaved truffles
are sprinkled over the burger
which rests in a brioche truffle
bun. You also get a US$2,500
bottle of Chateau Petrus and a
Certificate of Authenticity with
your order.
Serendipity 3s Frrrozen
Hot Chocolate
Bloomsbury Gold
Phoenix Cupcake
US$1,000 / VND22.5 million
This time in Dubai the
Bloomsbury Gold Phoenix is
the most unadorned cupcake
in the world and is wrapped
in 23-carat gold and its flour
is imported from Italy. There
is a more expensive cupcake
at close to US$150,000, but
its value comes from being
covered in inedible diamonds and was made
for a fashion event in Edinburgh in 2010.
The Golden Opulence Ice Cream Sundae costs a mere VND22.5 million
Golden Opulence Ice Cream Sundae New Yorks 230 Fifth Hot Dog
US$1,000 / VND22.5 million
Back across the pond in New York City, this
time at the Serendipity 3 restaurant with
famous previous guests such as Marilyn
Monroe and Andy Warhol you can order
this sundae from owner Joe Calderone. The
Golden Opulence Ice Cream Sundae has
three to five scoops of Tahitian vanilla bean
ice cream and is covered in 23-carat edible
gold leaf. The gold leaf is flavourless, but
costs up to US$160 a gram. The chocolate
syrup that crowns this sundae is the most
expensive in the world and the candied
fruits that sit on top are imported from Paris.
Theres a bit of Grand Passion Caviar on the
BY SHANE DILLON
Margos Pizzeria
US$2,420 / VND54.5 million
This pizza is available in Malta, on the
Mediterranean costs by what many call the
best pizza shop in the world. Owner Claude
AIRLINES
AIR ASIA
airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
airfrance.com.vn
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
9am to 10pm
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
CATHAY PACIFIC
cathaypacific.com/vn
CHINA AIRLINES
china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
jetstar.com/vn/en
LAO AIRLINES
laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com
SINGAPORE
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
vietjetair.com
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com
SAIGON COOKING
CLASSES BY HOA TUC
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
papaya-tshirt.com
T&V TAILOR
ATC FURNITURE
TAILORS
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
triciaandverona.com
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
Ubesthouse.com
VESPA SHOP
KOREAN AIR
koreanair.com
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CORPORATE GIFTS
AMBRIJ
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
A one-stop-shop concept
company providing marketing services including POSM,
corporate gifts and luxury
ranges of business gifts
from international brands
like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881,
Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,
Ungaro and more. Also do
event management services.
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
atc-craft.com
AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
austinhomeinteriors.com
chilai.com
8am to 9.30pm
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
BY PHIL KELLY
5) BE-Committed
7) BE-Patient
6) BE-Flexible
Fat loss is not a pre-set protocol that we can
just apply to, or that works for, everyone. Its
an individual process that needs to be altered
to suit your specific needs. Stay committed
to your goal while remaining flexible in the
approach you use to reach it. This is where
monitoring your progress is crucial. You
should be prepared to change what you are
doing if it is not achieving the desired results.
HCMC
Essentials
FEELING TROPIC
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
8am to 8pm
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
mekong-quilts.org
xedapcaocap.com
thebikeshopvn.com
M M M
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
nhaxinh.com
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
DENTAL CLINICS
ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
accadent.com
remixdeco.com
THE FURNITURE
WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
CYCLING
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
jett-cycles.com
info@elitedental.com.vn
elitedental.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS
DENTAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
internationalsos.com
HCMC
Essentials
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
STARLIGHT
CLINIC
DENTAL
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with
extremely reasonable prices.
westcoastinternational.com
MAPLE HEALTHCARE
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare,
dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the
latest technology together
with efficient and comfortable service.
M M M
GALLERIES
CRAIG THOMAS
GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
dogmacollection.com
classicfinefoods.com
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY
BUTCHERS
1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2565
meatworksasia.com
PHUONG HA
SAN ART
48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh,
Tel: (08) 6294 7059
san-art.org
Annam-gourmet.com
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB
RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
deepteshgill@gmail.com
SPORTS GENERAL
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN
SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL
TEAM
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
DARTS LEAGUE
thesidl.com
GROCERS
ANNAM GOURMET
MARKET
CRICKET
richard.car rington@
market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
galeriequynh.com
SPORTS
sacccricket@gmail.com
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
npasifali@hotmail.com
manish@ambrij.com
AUSTRALIAN RULES
FOOTBALL
Tel: 0937 683 230
vietnamswans.com
gauloisdesaigon.com
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
Contact Fred on 0919 709
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500
171.
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
SOFTBALL LEAGUE
saigonsoftball.info
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
TORNADOS HOCKEY
CLUB
436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,
Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van
Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
XROCK CLIMBING
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
HAIRDRESSERS,
SALONS & SPAS
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Conceptcoiffure.vn
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
spatropic.com
HOSPITALS &
MEDICAL CLINICS
AMERICAN
CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
www.acc.vn
CONTEMPORARY SALON
hairbar.vn
Indochine-spa.com.vn
americaneyecentervn.com
CENTRE MEDICAL
INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
cmi-vietnam.com
vietnammedicalpractice.com
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially maternity care.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
fvhospital.com
hanhphuchospital.com
HCMC
Essentials
HAPPINESS (HANH
PHUC) ORIENTAL
MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
internationalsos.com
sianclinic.com
stamfordskin.com
INSURANCE
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM
4th Floor, Continental Tower,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3821 9908
bluecross.com.vn
insuranceinasia.com
libertyinsurance.com.vn
noahjamesinsurance.com
Skype: jp.global
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
victoriavn.com
TENZING PACIFIC
SERVICES
181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS
ABC INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon
South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary),
Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British Government Inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8% of
schools worldwide. ABCIS
is accredited by CIE, AQA,
the Education Development
Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides
education for two to 18
year olds in a supportive
and friendly environment.
AUSTRALIAN
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960;
Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai
Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
bisvietnam.com
dancentervn.com
helenekling.com
Inspirato.edu.vn
Minhnguyenpiano.com
paa.com.vn
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM
55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16
years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth
soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
eishcmc.com
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)
3898 9100
ishcmc.com
CANADIAN
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3456
cis.edu.vn
kidsclubsaigon.com
SAIGON SOUTH
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
issp.edu.vn
MONTESSORI
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
renaissance.edu.vn
saigonkidskindergarten.com
SAIGON STAR
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
smartkidsinfo.com
tas.edu.vn
M M M
PROPERTY RENTALS
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7237
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
HCMC
Essentials
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
NAM HOUSE
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
residentvietnam.com
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
thenesthousing.com
M M M
MOTORBIKES
CHIS CAF
RENTALS
chiscafe.com
nga.natalie@gmail.com
saigonbikerentals.com
saigonscootercentre.com
M M M
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS
VIETNAM CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room
2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
vieclambank.com
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
M M M
RELOCATION AGENTS
asiantigers-mobility.com
jvkasia.com
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office
moves for household goods
and personal effects through
our global partner network.
Experts in exporting used
scooters that do not have
documentation.
SANTA FE RELOCATION
SERVICES
8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
M M M
SERVICED
APARTMENTS
DIAMOND ISLAND
LUXURY RESIDENCES
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678
agsfourwinds.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
the-ascott.com
intercontinental.com/saigonres
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Riverside-apartments.com
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED
RESIDENCES
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
TATTOO
ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming
increasingly popular,
over the past few years
there has been an
increase in the number
of tattoo studios around
the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on
offer in the studios or
bringing in their own
design. Most of the
studios offer bodypiercing services as
well. Pricing depends
on size and style.
EXILE INK
608
exileinkvietnam.com
SAIGON BODY
ART
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1
saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO
Group
81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.
com
M M M
SPORTS & FITNESS
CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
laholista.com
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic
sensations, chains such
as CGV, Lotte and
Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and
independent flicks,
smaller outlets such as
Cinebox and Idecaf carry
little known Vietnamese
and European efforts.
CINEBOX
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
idecaf.gov.vn
CGV CINEMAS
cgv.vn
cyril-and-you.com
thelandmarkvietnam.com
facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn
A bouldering gym and pro
climbing wall replete with
M M M
VETERINARY CLINICS
ANIMAL DOCTORS
INTERNATIONAL
1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
Q2. (08) 6260 3980
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
SPORTS GARMENTS
animaldoctors.vn
VIETNAMESE CLASSES
VIETNAMESE
LANGUAGE GARDEN
135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh
Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
SCORE-TECH
1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel:
(08) 3719 9588
score-tech.net
vietnameselanguagegarden.
com
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
nutrifort.com
saigonhash.com
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA
FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
BY OWEN SALISBURY
HCMC
On The Town
saigon.park.hyatt.com
apocalypsesaigon.com
biacraft.com
LAST CALL
LOUNGE BAR
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
eon51.com
SPORTS BAR
gameonsaigon.com
Buddhabarsaigon.com
HOA VIEN
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
hoavien.vn
chillsaigon.com
CHEZ GUIDO
www.chezguido.com
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
ICE BLUE
MAY RESTAURANT
& BAR
EXPAT BAR
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1
One of this citys longest running watering holes and
the original home of the
darts league has recently
reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still
key here, with each of the
bottom three floors having
elements devoted to this
most pub-friendly of sports.
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
HUNGRYPANDA.
VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
www.kfcvietnam.
com.vn
mayrestaurant.com.vn
LOTTERIA
www.pizzahut.vn
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR
lahabana-saigon.com
D2
SPORTS BAR
www.
vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
LONG PHI
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE
www.dominos.vn
CZECH BREWHOUSE
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
GAME ON
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
lastcallsaigon.com
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR
NUMBER FIVE
EXPAT BAR
44 Pasteur, Q1
The original expat bar, this
institution of a place gets
packed every night thanks to
its drinking hall atmosphere,
attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular
live music.
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
SCOOZI
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
irish-barsaigon.com
THE ORIENT
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
shrinebarsaigon.com
seventeensaloon.com.vn
STORM P
CARTOON BAR
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
Stormp.vn
Saigonoutcast.com
facebook.com/saigonranger
wineembassy.com.vn
THE SOCIETY
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Laneway-style
restobar, the kind of place found
in Hong Kong, London, New York
or Central Melbourne, thanks to
its indoor and outdoor ambience,
The Society brings dining and
drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare
and seafood make this a place to
go for drinks, a full-blown meal or
a mixture of both.
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
xusaigon.com
M M M
CAFES & ICE-CREAM
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903
199701
Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon.
Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip,
siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the
avid coffee drinker.
AGNES CAFE
DALAT COFFEE HOUSE
facebook.com/vespersaigon
HIP RESTOBAR
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
SAIGON RANGER
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
RUBY SOHO
SAIGON OUTCAST
LOUNGE BAR
WINE EMBASSY
XU
phattysbar.com
SHRINE BAR
SEVENTEEN SALOON
PHATTYS
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
vinylbarsaigon.com
COFFEE CUP
3 AMIS
AMAZING GRAPES
HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?
BY JIM CAWOOD
Bargain Bouquet
Torbreck Woodcutters
Shiraz 2014
Torbreck is known for producing some
of Australias best red wine wines. These
eye watering expensive blockbusters from
extremely rare lots of 100-plus-year-old
vineyards are amazing and something not
to be missed.
Lucky for us there are also some
excellent affordable wines in their range.
Made from selected vineyards from around
the Barossa Valley with an age of up to 80
years, this is a very sexy wine. Inky black,
silky smooth with power, grace, finesse and
precision. A joy to drink
HCMC
On The Town
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
cafethoaivien.com
coffeebean.com.vn
Decibel.vn
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice
bar and caf dedicated
to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment adds to the theme.
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Idcafe.net
lusinespace.com
facebook.com/m2ccafe
THE OTHER
PERSON CAFE
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
PLANTRIP CHA
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
TEA ROOM
alfrescosgroup.com
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, award-winning
Indian restaurant famed for
its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian
fare.
themorningcafe.com.vn
M M M
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
chillsaigon.com
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820
7157
aulacdobrazil.com
TOP EATS
PADMA DE FLEUR
TOP EATS
VIII RE
HCMC
On The Town
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
auparcsaigon.com
babaskitchen.in
BAHDJA
2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just above the Thai
restaurant Spice, Bahdja is
Saigons first ever Algerian
restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and
served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced
in a group, this pleasant
restaurants soothing ambience is matched by the owners genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely
semi-outdoor terrace area.
tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
boomarang.com.vn
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
blackcatsaigon.com
Chiscafe.com
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
elbowroom.com.vn
HOA TUC
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
elgaucho.com.vn
eon51.com
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
norfolkhotel.com.vn
52 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 4327
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
HCMC
On The Town
Alfrescosgroup.com
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
marriott.com
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
lioncityrestaurant.com
KOH THAI
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION
LOVEAT
MEDITERRANEAN
loveat.vn
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
sofitel.com
lacuisine.com.vn
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
KABIN
CANTONESE
intercontinental.com/saigon
MAY RESTAURANT
INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.
com
PAN-VIETNAMESE
facebook.com/madsaigon
namgiao.com
MEKONG MERCHANT
LUONG SON
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
luburestaurant.com
PROPAGANDA
HUE CUISINE
NINETEEN
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
NAM GIAO
caravellehotel.com
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
PENDOLASCO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
PAN-ITALIAN
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
facebook.com/quanutut
PACHARAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in
the downstairs bar at this
multi-story bodega serving
Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm
reds, yellows and oranges,
Pacharans food menu is
traditionally Spanish.
info@mekongmerchant.com
21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery,
Propaganda serves up classic
Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls
interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.
therefinerysaigon.com
facebook.com/relishandsons
MONSOON
PIZZA 4PS
RIVERSIDE CAF
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
pendolasco.vn
pizza4ps.com
SAFFRON
SHRI
PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
SORAE
soraesushi.com
sheratonsaigon.com
SAN FU LOU
CANTONESE KITCHEN
sanfulou.com
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
shangpalace.com.vn
skewers-restaurant.com
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Templeclub.com.vn
thedecksaigon.com
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
THE SOCIETY
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a
sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting
and a great spirit selection.
Serves creative, Japanese
and German-influenced
cuisine to supplement the
drinks and has a separate
dining space.
WRAP & ROLL
62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De
Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
A WORLD
OF
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
One of the UN's Sustainable Development Goals is to eradicate extreme poverty. While in Vietnam it's been achieved, other countries are still struggling
All-Inclusive?
One consistent criticism of the MDGs
is that of omission the goals did not
include targets for the systemic causes of
development inequality, and so ignored
key structural factors like human rights,
economic development and eradicating
gender-based violence. The more vocal
critics said the targets were for poor
countries to realise, with financing (or
heavily restricted funding) from rich
countries.
The loudest of the critics dismissed the
MDGs as condescending donor-driven
posturing. Lets put this in perspective;
Brazil achieved most of its MDGs; Benin
almost none; and Vietnam was in the
middle with three goals achieved (extreme
poverty, primary education and child
mortality) and strong or significant
progress in the remaining five, says the
UNDP.
For the next 15 years the SDGs will pick
up and carry on. There are 17 goals and
169 targets contained within them, (easily
found online), and what I want to highlight
is its language. The goals use words such
as for all, sustainable, and resilient
and this is to be commended for the intent
of inclusiveness and pragmatism. The goals
HCMC
On The Town
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
Namsonsteak.com
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
195 Co Giang, Q1
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
M M M
STREET FOOD
COM GA XOI MO SU SU
VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
55 Tu Xuong, Q3
COM TAM 40A
COM TAM
BA GHIEN
COM TAM
BUN BO HUE
PHO BO
260C Pasteur, Q3
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
PHO LE
PHO BO
BANH CUON
BANH KHOT CO
BA VUNG TAU
BANH KHOT
STREET SUSHI
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1
23 Hoang Sa, Q1
BANH MI SAU MINH
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
SUSHI KO
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BRIDALWEAR
3 Thang 2 C1
PAINTINGS
Tran Phu D1
Bui Vien D3
CAMERAS
Ton That Thiep C4
CAC
H
ung
Hoa H
A NG
District 11
2km
Ban
h
Min
2
NG
THA
Ba
n
hQ
uy
en
Ng
DIE
LY THA
I
G
HT
HAN
Vuon Chuoi
Market
Tha
n
Co
hie
hC
uy e
nT
hie
n
Ng
Thu
at
uy
in
nD
Ha
on
nS
ye
u
Ng
EN
UY
NG
TO
AI
KH
H
N
I
I M Chanh
TH am Viet
Ph
U
PH
AN
R
T
Teacher
Training
University
U
AN D
G
VUON
yen
n Trai
Binh
Bieu
Tran
DISTRICT 5
Ng u y e
Ngu
WEDDING SERVICES
Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1
ONG
CU
VAN
G
HUN
University of
Natural
Sciences
NG
VUO
YEN
STATIONERY
Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3
Tron
Ch
uo
i
N GU
SPORTSWEAR
Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3
Binh Tay
Market 3km
AU
HI S
T
O
LY
CHI
N
Ca
o
Tra
n
Quan
Tho
ng
Vu
on
t
n Da
TAM
Than
h
DISTRICT 10
h Ma
H uyn
GUITARS
Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2
Ng u
yen
Tron
FLOWERS
Le Thanh Ton C4
Minh
Quye
n
uyen
Binh
FABRICS
Hai Ba Trung A3
KH
OI
NG
HI
Dinh
Tran
EVERYTHING
Ben Thanh Market C4
nh
Van
Tran
NG
SHOES
Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2
Luu Van Lang C4
KY
ong
MA N
G TH
PHO
COOKING INGREDIENTS
Ham Nghi C4, C5
H uy
Saigon Train
Station
Minh
Quye
n
Tan Binh
0.5km
ng
SEAFOOD
Vinh Khanh D4, D5
NG
Thao
Truo
ng
ONG
LE H
COMPUTERS
Ton That Tung C2, C3
Quoc
Ba H
han To
SAFES
Vo Van Tan C3
NA
M
Ky
D
B
Tran
Tran
PLAQUES
Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2
CAR COMPONENTS
Tran Quang Khai A3
Ky Con C4, D4
PHU
ROI
PH
U
MOTORBIKES
Ly Tu Trong C3
YEN
VAN
T
INH
Le V
an S
y
BIKE MAINTENANCE
Nguyen Du C3
Huy
uynh
nh Van Banh
B IE
N
LUGGAGE
Le Lai C3, C4
N GU
PHA
ND
ien
gH
on
hu
ARMY SURPLUS
Dan Sinh Market D4
uy
anh
Th
JAPANESE RESTAURANTS
Le Thanh Ton B4, B5
Do
ANTIQUES
Le Cong Kieu C4
in
Ch
T
en
uy
Ng
A2
A4
A5
C4, D4
B3, B4
C2, C3
D4, E4
A3
B5
B5, C5
C4
D5, E5
B5, C5
C4, C5
C4
C2, C3
D1, E1, E2
D2
B4
D2, D3
D3, E1, E2
A1, B1
A3
A2
B1, C1
D1
A3
D1
A2, A3
B1, B2, B3
A2, B2
B1
B2, B3, C3
B3
A4, A5
B2
E3, E4, E5
D4, D5
A3, B2, B3
B3, C2
C2
A5
E5
C4, D4
Ng
D
en
Tran N
3 Thang 2
C1
Alexandre de Rhodes
B4
An Duong Vuong
D1
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan
B2, C3
Ban Co
C1
Ben Chuong Duong D3, D4, E2, E3
Ben Van Don
D4, D5, E3
Bui Thi Xuan
C3
Bui Vien
D3
Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3
Calmette
C4
Calmette
D4
Cao Ba Nha
D3
Cao Thang
C1, C2, D2
Chu Manh Trinh
B4, B5
Co Bac
D3
Co Giang
D3, D4
Cong Quynh
D3
De Tham
C3, D3
Dien Bien Phu
A4, B3, C1, C2
Dinh Cong Trang
A3
Dinh Tien Hoang
A4, B4
Do Quang Dau
D3
Do Thanh
C1
Doan Nhu Hai
D5
Doan Van Bo
D5
Dong Du
C5
Dong Khoi
B4, C4, C5
Hai Ba Trung A2, A3, B3, B5, C5
Hai Trieu
C5
Ham Nghi
C4
Han Thuyen
B4
Ho Hao Hon
D3
Ho Tung Mau
C4, C5
Ho Xuan Huong
C2
Hoa Hung
B1
Hoang Dieu
D4, D5, E3
Hoang Sa
A4, A5
Huyen Tran Cong Chua
C3
Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh
A5
Huynh Man Dat Dist. 5
E1
Huynh Thuc Khang
C4
Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh
A5
Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. 3
A2
Huynh Van Banh
A1, A2
Khanh Hoi
D4, E4
Ky Con
C4, D4
Ky Dong
B2
Le Cong Kieu
C4
Le Duan
B4, B5
Le Hong Phong
D1
Le Lai
C3
Le Loi
C4
Le Quoc Hung
D4, D5
Le Quy Don
B3
Le Thanh Ton
B4, B5, C3, C4
Le Thi Hong Gam
C4, D4
Le Thi Rieng
C3
Le Van Sy
A1
Luong Huu Khanh
C2
Luu Van Lang
C4
Ly Chinh Thang
B2
Ly Thai To
D1
Ly Tu Trong
B4, B5, C3, C4
Mac Dinh Chi
B4
Mac Thi Buoi
C5
Mai Thi Luu
A4
Me Linh
A5
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
A2, B3, C4
Ngo Duc Ke
C5
Ngo Thoi Nhiem
B2, B3, C2
inh
1
PHU NHUAN
A
yen
Ngu
HCMC
Map
Airport
3km
h
Chin
Dinh
O
UNG DA
TRAN H
Toan
Tran Quoc
P ha
m
ho
oT
Ng
hie
iN
NA
M
Tru
ong
m
gu
y
gu
MANN
G TH
nD
ye
Ch
inh
A NG
Huy
en
Tra
n
Du
Kh
oa
Hua
ong
u Tr
Ly T
inh
h
han
Le T
uy
Lu
HAM NGHI
inh
en
Nguy
Don
Tru
Cong
NNEL
THU THIEM TU
Don
Van
uoc
H un
g
VinaExpress - The
Hydrofoil Service
N
Doan
i
hu Ha
g
Hoan
Dieu
Vung Tau
H
HA N
Van
ieu
T
TAT
u
D ie
inh
B en
Tr
Hai
oi
YEN
Le Q
V
Tan
ong
u
D ie
oi
hH
an
Du
ng
Hoa
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hoa
B en
ng
huo
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Kh
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cK
Doa
nV
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Kh
t
ha
Ng
To
ong
Tru
g
uon
ng
Hoa
nK
uy e
P
ua
ghiep
uan N
Do
ng
y en
Ng u
ng D
huo
Ng
Ch
Ho H
HU
E
B en
Vinh
Cha
n
An
N GU
Dan Sinh
Market
ru
g T Ky C
on
Con
C
B en
o
Bu
r
teu
Pa s
Le Cong Kieu
Du
am
Nh
hang
uc K
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UY
EN
tD
en
guy
iB
Tha
Huyn
NG
iep
Th
i
Th
n Na m
nh
ha
hK
Ba
I
LO
LE
t
ha
c
Ma
Tha
ng
Do
Saigon Bridge
& Highway 1
3km
Vin
Ca
o
T
Ton
ang
nL
Va
HIA
Co
n
G ia
an
Th
ac
h
Opera
House
on
hT
Tra
i
st
eur
HU
u
Sie
en
uy Thi
g
N
S
in
Ch
ian
oi
Ngo V
a
TR
UN
G
EN
UY
AN
UC
on
hT
te
Bac
n
ha
eT
NG
TH
AN
G
Tha
iV
an
Lu
ng
et
lm
Ca
G
Co
Xu
en
guy
si
Yer
Ho
am
hu
Ha
o
Kh
BA
Tru
c
Ben Thanh
Market
gG
Hon
ng
ro
uT
yL T
HA
I
UC
Tri
nh
Du
am
Th
De
Ho
en
uM
anh
TO
ND
DISTRICT 1
en
Tru
ng
Ton
C
HO
gu
ye
nK
ha
cN
Trinh
en Cu
Nguy
hi
eT
AI
TH
u
Da
ng
DA
NG
HU
Co
uy
Do
ng
Saigon
Bus Station
ien
Bui V
AN
TRN
Ng
EN
UY
Ph
ang
Dinh
Ng
23/9 Park
a
Qu
Ng u
yen
ng
D
Th
u
o
gu La
am N
en
Central
Post Office
Le
rai
en T
Thai Binh
Market
Con
gQ
uyn
h
Duc Ba
N
UA Cathedral
ED
Co
ng
NG
Le La
uy
Du
uc
nh
ho
Pa
Le La
y
Ng u
eR
s
de
Re-unification
Palace
Le Thi Rieng
Tun
g
AN
DU
Ton
u
iX
Th
an
y en
LE
au
gM
Tun
i
Bu
Tra
n
Can
h
INH
AI
KH
Tru
o
Ngu
NG
HTV
Television
Chi
L
30 Thang 4 yen
u
Park Han Th
Tan
Tao Dan
Park
nh
NG
IM
Ng
d
re
nd
xa
Ale
Labour Culture
Chu
HCMC
Palace
a
Conservatory
of Music
o
Ca
Ma
cD
inh
n
Va
TH
EN
UY
I
HA
Ho
u
Ng
m
Tha
De
cC
ua
in
K
INH
st
eur
KH
OI
NG
HI
M
HI
Ch
Do
Cao T
hang
Kha
Quo
NG
E
UY
NT
Hoa Lu
Stadium
I NG
K HO
Huu
Na m
n
Va
Vo
n
Tra
KH
IEM
oD
Ph
Luo
ng
Th
at
cT
hao
hac
RU
N
OA
N
KY
g
on
Su
War Remnants
Museum
TAM
tA
ye
KY
ieu
N
Ba
Huy
en
ieu Than
D
hQ
hi
Tan
Ton
Quo
Ng
uy
en
Gia
Th
ieu
Din
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T
en
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ho
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Ng e Qu
yD
on
Pa
cT
BA
T
D
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Ng
hie
hC
BIN
H
NAM
n
Va
Vo
Tra
n
ng
uo
nH
a
u
oX
CAC
H
Tran
Ng
o
HA
I
en
hu
nT
Lu
u
District 7
& Nha Be
Kha
nh
DISTRICT 4
Ton D
an
IEN
HU
NP
BIE
Kh
ac
K
hoa
DISTRICT 3
ong
Xu
uy
NH
hi
inh
Saigon South
4km
Ch
ieu
AU
HI S
T
O
m
hie
Tu
Qu
yen
Ng
Va
TIE
eB
XO
Xo
m
DIN
H
P ha
nK
NG
UY
EN
Han
ANG
st
eur
AU
HI S
T
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Ma
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H o an
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UC TH
Tru
ong
uc
Le Van Tam
Park
U
PH
IEN
B
Phu
N
ng
DIE
uo
c
nQ
Tra
Pa
uy
Tu
INH
E TPhan Van
TON D
Toa
n
Cua
hanh
nH
GH
TN
E
I
V
TON DUC T
HANG
c Chan
a
Tran Kh
Ca
u
uu
on
hC
Di n
Thi
T
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on
ng
ra
gT
Ng
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Ph
RUN
Ph
Truonng Sa
Hoang Sa
c
go
AT
an
Phan Va
Vann Ha
Han
N
en
Ly
V
Thac
h
5
BINH THANH
U
PH
uy
inh
n
Va
en
uy
Ng
Hi AI
a
B
DIE
N
BIE
Ng
hT
NG
HA
HT
N
CHI
LY Huyn
Duat
uy
en
Ng
uy
en
H
Ng
Tran Nhat
an
Ng
uy
en
V
Du
Tran Khannhh
Gia Dinh
Hospital
1.5km
NATIONAL
Getting Frustrated
There are countless frustrations in Vietnam
that dont happen overseas, and thousands
of everyday frustrations overseas that dont
happen in Vietnam.
Lets take the internet. In Vietnam
everywhere you go its free of charge. The
only issue speed. It can get frustrating.
How about in the UK? The free internet is
infinitely slower than it is in Vietnam so
bad it sometimes doesnt work at all. Not
good when youre sitting in a caf trying to
get some work done. And the cheek of it is
to get yourself online for free, youve got to
register. In Vietnam, you only register with
the big chains.
Lets take another instance of the internet,
getting it installed at home. In London it
took me two weeks to get broadband. Two
weeks! Maddening. In Vietnam once youve
got the go-ahead, it takes 24 to 48 hours.
Take Stock
The problem with Vietnam is that things
happen here that to non-Vietnamese minds
seem ridiculous and unnecessary. Parks are
created under bridges where you cant walk
on the grass. A bus driver pulls in to stop,
cutting you up, just because they can. You
want your my quang in Mon Hue served
NATIONAL
Wanting us to Learn
And it wasnt. Toughened by my
Vietnamese experience, I worked hard
on my Thai, but most crucially was aided
by the best gift any language learner can
receive the locals want you to speak their
language.
In Thailand, this is taken to extremes.
Thais will do anything to avoid the
embarrassment of a Farang Interaction, and
therefore automatically greet you in Thai
in the hope that you can respond in similar
fashion. To be treated as a non-Thai speaker
in a shop, you would need to enter wearing
a ten-gallon hat and cowboy boots, twirling
two six-shooters and yelling This is a stickup. Grab some sky!
The two languages are broadly similar,
and the learning experiences utterly
different. Vietnamese are keen to display
their English-language skills, determined
to control the conversation by keeping it
in English, and are resolutely unhelpful to
your efforts to speak Vietnamese.
Thais are keen to hide the fact that they
have no English-language skills, they are
not the sort of people who get around to
controlling anything, and are enormously
pleased when your ability to speak Thai
means that their morning will likely proceed
on its usual somnolent way.
So, if youre having trouble learning
Vietnamese, and are writing yourself off as
someone who cant learn languages, dont
feel bad about it.
Weve all been through it.
Ten 10