BUILDING WOODEN See erent eS Gears & Gadgets for the Adventurous Woodworker‘Copyrighted Material BUILDING WOODEN MACHINES sta Gears & Gadgets for the Adventurous Woodworker Alan & Gill Bridgewater is Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material ‘Ths sumors and editors who comBEN tls none nave tried tm ‘make all the contunts as aocurate and currect as possitve. Plans, ‘mustrations, photographs and text have been carstily checked. ‘All Instructions, plans and projects should be cazetully read, stud- sed and undarstaod before beginning ponstruction. Due to the var- ‘slury af ioeal pumatians, construction misterials, ial levels, 6, ‘netiner tua authors nor Betterway Rocks assumes eny respans!- [bflty dor any anoidents, inurles damauescar otber lasses incurred ‘esuing trom tne material presanted in tis back Depicarion ‘We would lke to dedicate this book to all the men and women of {he past—invantors, anginears clockmskars and tha Wwe—mno Sent COUNHeSs DOUTs in WOrKsnOps-maxing Ue marines and ‘working models in wood. Weal know ahout Leonardada Vino! and {his elicogter, and Stevenson and nig ooa, wae who wast [wonder ‘home tha frst working modelo, say,the Net pamloex? Othe {ust pair of llersiates? ‘ACENOWLEDGMENTS ‘We would Iiee to tank all the mamunctarers who have supplied ‘us wlth th est af the best: ‘Tum Ettam, Procioent, Wood Carvers Supply, PO. Bor 7500, ‘Engiewood, FL34285-7500 ‘Wood Carving Toals ‘Jim Brewar, Research and’Marksting Manager, Freud, PO. Box ‘7B? 218 Faia Ave, Hg. Patnt, WE2 7268 Auster rare ‘William Welsen, President, Foredom Blactric, Bethel, PT D6S01 ‘Pemer Toals John F Jowan, Vice Pres dant, Datta International Machinery orp. 246 Alpha Dr, Fitshurgh, PA 15236-2885 want sar Mick Davidson, Managing Disector,Cratt Supplies Lid UE, The ‘BOM, Milars Dale, Burton, Derbysntre, SII? ASN, UK ‘Wood Taming em Frets, Marketiog Assistant, De-Sta-Co, PO, Box 2800, Twos, ‘ect anco7 camps Paragon Communiestions, Evo-atie2, Common ond, StatTard, STIG SEH, UE PVA amesive Frank Dootz, Punic Relations, Ryobi America Corporation, 5201 Pearman Dairy Ra, Suite, PO. Bor 1207, Anderson, SC 2e622-1207 ‘mateeness Planer ‘Most al, we would Ie to MsDK Friearicn Wimeim Emmerich 0 Fmenich Planes, Harderstiabe7, Remscheld, Germany — ‘for nis Beawtital wooden planes, They are special! Ityau are ooigng to set yourself up with tanest of au modern planes, man {these are the ones ta god Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material 4 Introduction 6 PROJECT * PROJECT 8 Circular Movement Centrifugal Machine & Impeller Pump 74 PROJECT 2 PROJECT 8 Harmonic Oscillation ‘Sector Wheel Bearing Punch Machine 17 Machine 83 PROJECTS PROJECT 10 Cam & Fork Flywheel Propeller ‘Machine 29 Machine 92 PROJECT 4 PROJECT 11 In-the-Round Pyramid Roller-Ball Combustion Engine 39 Machine 102 PROJECTS PROJECT 12 ‘Ward Lock & Key 50 Rack & Finion Machine 111 PROJECT 6 PROJECT 13, Reciprocating Pendulum Recoil Engine 56 Escapement —_ Machine 118 PROJECT? PROJECT 14 O11 Pumping Rig 66 Flywheel & Governor = Machine 130 Copyrighted Material ti => BS fe F &Copyrighted Material PROJECT15 Cam Machine 142 PROJECT 16 Steam Crank Slider Mechanism 153 PROJECT 17 Differential Pulley Block 162 PROJECT 18 The Excentric Squirrel Fan 173 PROJECT 19 Six Valve Radial Engine 180 PROJECT 20 Wheel & Worm Gear Mechanism 153 PROJECT 21 Film Advancing Mechanism 192 PROJECT 22 The Universal Joint 203 fe =: Camshaft Valve 215 PROJECT 24 ‘Water Lift Pump 229 PROJECT 25 Lever & Ratchet ‘Mechanism 239 PROJECT 26 Screw Jack 248 8 PROSECT 27 ‘The Bicycle Chain Machine 250 FROJECT 28 ‘The Wonderful ‘Wilmburst Machine 269 Index 278 Copyrighted Material ru a { wih & 2 @Copyrighted Material Introduction >My grandpa used to tell my mather that was ana af thasa complicated sticky-tingerad litle bays who needed watch- ing! He always used to say that | wasup te tricks and lesm- ing. As Iremember, all this meant, in etfect, was that 1 was borrowing tools without permission, usually missing at meal times, and generally difficult to track down. It wasn't that Lwas in any way naughty of up to no good, but rather that [was always “inventing” I made a cross bow that was more @ Jethal man tap than a weapon, an electric alarm slock that couldn't be touched unless you were wearing rubber gloves, a lever mechanism for the gate that very noarly skinned and quartered the neighbor's cat, and sa tha st goes on. So You see, it wasn't that I was. horble ittia hoy bent on mischlet, but only thet I loved mechanisms and enjoyed working with tools and wood, Iwas never se happy as when Twas tucked away in the back shed hacking away with knife and saw on one or other ‘of my lahour saving inventions. ‘And of course, novrthat Lama man and fully gravm, ona ‘of my chief pleasures is being out in my shed workshon reaming up nave mechsnisms. But I'm not alone! Tha mi- raculous thing, the thing that makes our marriage sa suc cessful, is that my wife Gillis a soul mate, a true kindred spirit. We both get pleasura working with wood. Picture us A you will, out in our workshop, the radio humming away, ‘our two dogs fast asleep in a couple of ancient armchairs, ‘uugs of tea, both of us up te our armpits th a glorious ‘miaoma of tools, shavings, beeswax, wood and working drawings. Qurshed workshop is a havent And now that our two sons are out of the nest, it doesn’t matter toa much it ‘wespend most of the night working. It we are tized but still ‘willing, we simply settle down in the armehairs urith a knife and whatever part neads sorting, and drift and dream away the hours. The incredible thing is that at the end of it all—after hour upon hour spent sawing, planing, gouging, turning, whittling and waxing—we gat ta make the most ‘amazingly intricate machines and mechanisms, Our ambitions involve sharing with you the pleasures of ereating small machines and mechanical pratotypes from ‘wood. We want you to shaze in tha fun. The projects ara ‘small, $0 You don't need a vast workshop full of tools or a fortune in wood; all you need Is enthusiasm. ‘with aach of the projects, we take you through all the ‘wonderfully satisfying procedures of chaosing the wood, setting out the designs, sewing, plsning. drilling and all the Test. We give you working drawings and templates to ex- plain how, why and whatavith. There are drawings shaw= ing details, and there are photographs to explain the ‘various step-by-step stages. We have done our best to de- scribe all the procedures that go into making our working wootlen wonders. Each project draws inspiration from a specific mecha~ ism, There are twenty-eight projects in all—all exciting, all dynamic, all beautiful and all made fram wood, Note ‘At! moasuremonts are in aches, and the sizes allow fora ‘gencrows amonnt of waste, Tha cimensions tm tho eurting Itets ave givan in tho ordar tf thisknees, width and length As with any ‘wooden sculpture, the dimensions indicated are starting pois ‘only, Modily dimensions, spacers and parts as necessary. Copyrighted Material INTROOUCTION 9Copyrighted Material PROJECT 1 Circular Movement Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘This machine is amazingly interesting in thet it basutifully fllustrates one of the kay principles of herology. it shows how, in the context of a traditional grandfather-type clock, a pulley drum, length of cord and weight are able—like a coiled spring—to store up and provide enaray. ‘The movement is handsomely direct and uncomplicat- ‘Od, As the weight falls at a constant rato, so the drum-and- beam flywheel spins at a uniform speed on its pivot: Tha fascinating thing is that the position of the pill-shaped ‘weights on the beam dramatically alters the speed of spin. To set the machine into motion, the cord fs wound up. vwrith the crank handle, the two bear weights are adjusted 50 they are equidistant from the center of spin, and the non ‘weight is allowed to descend. It you have a yen w play around with heam weights, crank handles and pulley ol ‘weights, and it you enjoy a good working mix af woad tumn- ng, fretting on the scroll saw and drilling, thie might well be the project for you. @ CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a lack atthe project picture (right), the working draw= ing (Fig 1-18) end the templates (Pig 1-16), and see that we hava designed the machine so st can be easily positioned on the edge of @ surface. The idea is that the machine can be lecatad on.a mantle shelf or the ergs of a table in sucha ‘way that the bob welght can fall three or four fest lower than the baso of the machine, Although at first sight this project may look almost too simple to be true, I think it fair to warn you that turning the ‘beam boss with its integral pulley wheel and spindie, plus turning, drilling and fitting out the tong, sausaye-shaped ‘ob weight, araall procedures that call for a deat of patience ‘andl expertise, There are several points along the way that require delicate work if you are to avaid mess-ups, For ex- sample, the fit of the spindle needs to be just so—not too noes, not t2o tight, Also, the bob weight hole has ta ran straight and true. ifthe drill bit vaars a little off-center, you have got a dowal with a gash in the side—not a pretty sight! Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE CIRCULAR Mol ‘Copyrighted Material EeeCopyrighted Material CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 1-18 ‘ata grid seala of ewa squares to, the machine stands about 197 Righ and site over 84° wide across the span of the baa rad. 30. CIRCULARL MENT MACHINE Copyrighted Materialopyrighted Mate! CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE TEMPLATES: FIGURE 1-18 ‘The soaleis twa rid ‘squares ta. Crankhandle 9 eiCopyrighted Material 1642" 13¥piteh pine @* B12 piten pine ies dnean B'—"/" pale wood dowel 2x28 pine B= tol ‘wt woes dove ieee CHOOSING YOUR wooD Although we went for pitch pine for the base, stand, but- tress support and boss spindle, a length of off-the-sheit pale wood dowel tor the weight, and ods and ends of varl- ‘ous white wood dowel for the handies and fixing pegs, this, fs not to say yau can't go for almost any wond that takes your fency, There are two provisos the heb weight is best mada from a heavy, dense wood, while the bogs spindia needs to be made fram a wood that is straight grained and sesy te turn, Thatsaid—and:mindful that well ought to ba using nature-frisndly, sustainable timbers—you could go for a variety like lime, jalutong or perhaps aven boach. My overall thinking is that if the wood is easy to work, not toa expensive, free from knots, splits, warps and stains, and froma reputable source, i's the right timber for the task. ‘MAKING THE BASE, BACKBOARD AND CRANK HANDLE ‘Study the working drawing (Fig 1-LA) and templates (Fig 118). Draw the protiles to size and make lear tracings oO Sat to work carefully cutting out tha nroféles. ‘Take the two cutouts—the stand and crank—and make Sure the pasition of all the hales is clearty ‘established with punched center points (Fig 1-IB), You need center points for the 1/«"-dtameter spindle bearing at the top of the stand, the four l'/e-diameter hind holes that decorate the front of the stand, the/<" hale at the feenter of tha crank for the spindle, and the twa ‘ve~diameter holes at the ends af the crank forthe handle dowels. aa. CIRCULAR MOVEMENT Ma\ ‘With all the center points clearly fixed, drill them out With the appropriate bit size, Warning: for Safety's sake, |! the bit size ie greater than'/", have the workpiece held vnith a clamp (Figs 1-2 and 1-3). ‘TURNING THE BEAM WEIGHTS ‘Having established the ond centers by drawing crossed diagonels, mount the wood on the lathe, ‘draw up the tallstoc set tha too] rest at the correct ‘height, and see tot that all your tools ave within reach. ‘ake the large gouge, either square ended arround ‘nosed, and swiftly tum down the 2° * 2" squara Section af wood th tha largest possible diamater, With the woot! roughed aut, take the skew chisel and bring the ‘wood! to a smooth cylinder. Starting with the two beam disks, or pucks, and ‘working from right to left aiong the workpiece, FIGURE 1-2 (Clamp the workpiece secursty to the workable, and run the blind ‘holes in to the depth of the hand of the Forster bit, FIGURE 13 aves ploce of waste wood under the warkpisce—we uiea chest ‘of plywoed—s0-yon con dril right throngh the workplsce wthont ‘doing damage to the bit Tha waster also ensures that the exit ‘holes crisp and clean edged. Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material meaning from the tailstock end, take the dividers and, ‘mark all the sten-offs that make wp the design, Allow about 'i" for tailstock waste, 1" for the first disk, '/«" for part-off waste, 1" for the secand disk, and then a tinal ‘stall amount for part-off waste. ‘with the twa disks carefully marked, take the parting tool and sink the waste areas to a depth ot about '/e" 50 you are lett with & core diameter of about /2" Taka sk chisel and use hs oo pin 0 Fe tis reste mies fork dik The ph nl ata tinh stn yt comets of was. Am or lay rude pote Te lard the parting west then med of sry the sounded ach on hour igo 1-4 and 15) ane nal newt trying omen wo he later ie FIGURE1-4 ‘Tourn tt tho round shower, sa the shaw eles! Hat on toe ‘workpiece, stowfy twist he to! unti the back or net atthe bade Ibogins tos, and then munis continncus neasp down and ound into the valley, FIGURE 1-5 ‘Moving turnod off facing shoulders, taka the pasting tool and ‘depen the parting waste te reves! and define the fat fare ot tne disk Finally, when yau have what you considers a Wall-matehed pair of disk-shaped weights, bring them to a smooth finish withthe skew chisel anda piece of fine-grade sandpaper, and part oft ‘TURNING THE INTEGRAL SPINDLE, CORD DRUM AND BOSS Check your wood over for feults and mount it securely on the lathe. Aetna i mocha ig Fa cose crouse out pind ont the akew eis cottage erat nh en par dividers and mera eet hat maka the dosion Woking fom thatch eal a sal amour er talstck waste, forth sn tt ha drum fr theogt once ten he drm an the ost hons an thet chuck wast ace ene um with aiine ‘Take the parting too! snd lower the waste between the various step-off points to achieve the required ore diameter (Pig 1-8), For exemple, if we take that you ara starting aut with a 2"-diameter eylinder, than you mead to lower the spindle by */1°for a*/2* core, the dram by sbout '/s" for a1'/s" core, the area of spindle between tha ‘boss and the drum by alittle over®/s" fora “/at core,and the boss by #4" for a 11/«* care (Fig 1-7). ‘With each of the step- offs lowered to the required. epth, take the tool of your cheice—Titke using a skew chisol—and shape up the various profiles (Fig 1-8) ‘The boss and the drum and the length af spindle in botween can be turned taany shape that takes your Janey, but the spindle shaft must be turned down s0 it is smooth fit in a /?-diamater hole, 1 yau can’t use a ‘e" del but, turn your spindle shtt to the nearest size 13Copyrighted Material FIGURE 1-7 ‘Low the step-otfs until you reach the care diameters ef." for ‘the pind, 17+" for the drum, about */«" for the longth of spindle ‘between the drum and the boss, and 3° for the boss. ‘When you hava tured the various profiles ta siza and shape and rubbed them down toa smooth finish ‘with.a scrap of sandpapet, carefully asa the tailstock enter out of the way, and have a trial fitting of the spine through the bearing hote at the top ofthe stand. Be ‘nuindtu] that it needs to be a goad, smooth-Tunning tit Wig 8) ‘Ta part off, hald and cradle the workpiece in one ‘hand, and carefully nip it off with the tag of the slew chisel (Fig 1-10) Fimally, set the rag-mutfled spindle in the jaws of the chuck—the rag being used to protect the spindle from crush damage~and sand the part-off point down to a ‘smooth finish MAKING AND LOADING THE BOB WEIGHT Before you put tool te weod, have another 1ook at the ‘working dravitng (Fig I-1A) and templates (FIs: 7-18). Notehow the weight needs ta he long and thtn soit can pass hetween the stand and the spinning beam weights, ‘ihileat the same tima it must he haavy. Consider haw we ddriiled cut a length of #/-diameter dawel and loaded it ‘with lengths cut from a 6" nail ‘Take your 6" length of ?/«"-diameter dowel and check it over for faults. I it is warped, split, stained, of in. any way less than perfect, select anothar pieoe, dow sacey plea teu boat een ulogacun Yu il fou Ut eared Geral creepy ko ol wean f cup hacry sod ‘lnc 44 orci MOVEMENT M FIGURE LS ‘The partially turned workpines, showing (from left to right) me ‘ose, longt af dacorattva spine, drum and epinie shaft. ote ‘Mat, atts stape, we were ati undecided ws to how we wanted ‘the boss to be finally shaped. FIGURE1-8 ‘With the workplace stil secure ia the jaws ofthe chuck, draw ‘back tno taflstoek and have a trial iting of the spindle shaft ‘trough the Dearing hole, Be very carafal not to fat the tarning oft-canter, FIGURE 1-10 (When you have achieved what you consider is a good, watl- ‘infahed turning, ae the tert the kw chisol te part off trom ‘the Inthe, Re careful that tha toe of the chisel dacsa't slip between ‘the workpiece and tool rest: Copyrighted MaterialFIGURE 1-11 ‘Secure the dowel soit is perfectly aligned with the drill and run /e-@lamwoter habe Gown to he ful depth of the Bit.Da this trons ‘oth ends of te deat, ra Pigure 1-12 (ight) Cut a 1angth tram a 6" na, ana push i down tats the ‘cavity, aim to finish up witha space of about“y."at the top ofthe ‘hole, Plug the bole witha short length af wedged dawsl. (aft) wham the glue te dry, set the workpiece in the jxws ofthe ‘chmck, and carefully turn down the end te round-nosed finish. Copyrighted Material Copyrighted Material Run a?/s'-diameter hole down through the length af the dowel, Bore the hole down into ana ¢nd—to the Tull length of the Bt—and then turn he wood aver and repeat the procedure tor tha other end (Fig 1-1). ‘With the holes in place—either right thrawgh the dowel ar at least a good way into each end—cut one ormore lengths trom a 6" nei, and load it to within about a/¢" of the ends Push alength of split and glued®/s* dawel into the end hole~hoth ends~tap 2 shaved wedge into the lita stopper, and put itto one sida to dry (Fig 1-12 right, One end at a time, secure the loaded dowel in the iaws of the lathe chuck, and use the skew chisel and the graded sanddpapers to tum it down ta a round-ended. shape—tike a torpedo (Fig I-12 left). Finally, cut and tinish all the secandary components: the buttress at the back of the stand and all the tittle pins and pegs. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING With all the component parts meticulausly cut and worked (Pig 1-18), and with all unglued surfaces Lightly otled, sat the stand on the base saitis flush with the front edge and aligned withthe center line, and draw in.couple of disctwet elignment marks EMENT MACHINE 18)Copyrighted Clamp the stand lightly to the bese, and run 1/¥-dlameter peg-tixing Roles down at an angie— ‘tyrough the feet and on into the bage, The Best procedure {sto dri one foot, secure it with a peg, and then repeat the technique far the other side, Re aware that because the feet are shart grained, they are relatively tragie. Note don’ glue the pege at this tral itting stage ‘Take the huttress piece and sat it firmly against the back of the-stand, When you feel there is good, tight, right-angle coming-together af the three components, fit with.» dowel (Fig 1-14), ‘Take the boss spindle and the beam waights and, one piece at a time, secure them in an appropriate sslamp-and-bleck jig Drill out the 4e'-diameter holes for the besm rod. Make sure the holes are aligned at right ‘angles to the run of the gran Dritl two '/="-diameter hholes—one into the drum for fixing the cord and the ‘other through the side of the erank and inte the spindle (ig 1-15), ‘When you have fitted the stand to the base and the spindle is sitting eamfartably in place at the tap at the stand, pusia fit the '/«"beam dowel through the boss (Pigs 116, 117 and 118}. set the weights on the bear. fit, the langth of fine cord and the weight, and then havea trial run. Copyrighted Material FIGURE 114 Fit and fix the stand ta thease, ‘and thon brace with the buttress, FIGURE 115 ‘Build clamp-and Block jigs far the difticalt-to-hotd componente that need tobe drilled. Minimize the risk of splitting the wood by having the Doles vet aerees the mum of the grain. PROBLEM SOLVING "The whole success ofthis project hinpas om the spindle shatt ‘lng asmoath frictian-fes tt through thetop-of-stand ‘heating hole Try wing the contsctsuriecas, FIGURE 1-17 Posstha shaft through the bearing hole, set tn cram on the shaft and fit andthe wits round toothpick. FIGURE 1-18 Fitthe wight an the and of tha cord, and nae trial mum. I need ba reduce the ‘ction by waxing the shaft amd all the other maving mating faces. MaterialCopyrighted Material PROJECT 2 Harmonic Oscillation Punch Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The oscillation punch macht gem to make With its intriguing movemant and attractive structure, tts the sort ‘bf machine that is just asking tobe set inte action! As to the name of this maching itis not sa easy tacoma up with 2 clear-cut definition or meaning. OK, no prablem ‘with the term oscillation punch—it simply describes tha ‘up-and-down punch action that is created by the escillat~ (de-to-side. movement of the sector weight—but ne tartn harmonicis a bit afastickler, [reckon it ing to do with symmetrical, harmonic frequency, but Tm ot sure. Have you got any ide ‘The best way to operate this machine is to put your forefinger in the sector weight hole and to {liek it rapidly from side to side, If everything ie right, the swift side-ta- side movement should result in the punch joggting up down. PROJECT OVERVIEW Have 6 look at the working drawing (Fig 2-14), the tem: lates (Fig 2-18) and the various photographs, and youl ject is somawhat complicated in that it is made up of a large number of small moving pasts. This is not to say that each component is in itself difficult to cut far from it—hut rather that the ner does require um total of putting all the i Tot of thinking and a lot of Study the working drawing (Fig 2-14), and consider how the mechine {s made up of the primary units; a hasa vith @ low, glue-tived hackhoard, 8 high, round-tapped backboard with a pivot rod location slot and various pivot holes, a plate and spacer to hald tha sector, the swinging sector weight itself, the connecting rod, the pivoted crass head joint and punch, and the bracket In action, as the sect ng rad rises, which in turn lifts the punch in its supporting bracket. And, of course, as the sector comes ta Test in the midpasition, the punch goes dave in its bracket. The best bit about cha action, meaning the way the parts move. is the way the loose-fit crosshead joint at the bottom nf the connecting rod is kept in place by the pivot pin that passes through the unit and into the backboard slot tor welght awrings to the side, tha Copyrighted Material’ = " c "7HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 48 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINECopyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 0 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE WORKING DRAWING HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE: #1 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 2-18 muastrame tasaimenat-tn- ‘visualize components. A Toll round-torped bseoerd, 2 Specer 0 From plate DD Crosebead joint idee, Bracket 1 Sector weight @ Cooecting md Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material CUTTING LIST ‘A Tal zana-topped peor ‘B Spacer © Froctpate 4 Cmesead;omt Syax 3x Teo ‘Wiagencoweland = &! rete CHOOSING YOUR WOOD ‘Wedertded to emphasize and draw attention to the various parte by using two strang-grained fancy woods. We usod Spanish olive for the hortzontsl backboard, the comecting rod, and the middle layer of the laminated crosshead joint, ‘andi a piece nf uncharacteristic English ak far the rest. MAKING THE BASE AND BACK BOARDS Having carefully studted the working drawing (Fig 2-14) and templates (FigZ-1B), take the two 6"-long lsces af wood—the oak at */e" thick end 4" wide, end tha olive at "/*" thick and 22/4" wide—and the 7'/s"-long, 3*-wide board, and use the pene!) zuler, square and ompassae to mark ell the Lines that make-up the design. Spend time carefully marking in the posttian of the center lines, the main pag and pivatholeg and any ther guidelmes you think will help you on your way When you are sure all the guidelines are well placed, use the tonls af your choioe tm cat the thras boards ta shape and size, Pag and glue the Jaw backboerd to rtahasa, chacke with a equere, secure with clamps, and put ito ane ide until the glue Ls set a Having cur the tall backboard out on the scroll saw, establishthe position of the twa top holes—tha ‘44"-diameter parvot hole andthe (/«'-diamater wedge-poy. ‘hole—and dill them on the drill press, mally, when you have achieved whet yau think is 2 good iit and finish of the three beards, sat tha tall backboard on the basa and draw in e couple of alignment marks (Fig 2-2) MAKING AND FITTING THE SECTOR PLATES Hava a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 2-18) and photographs, and nota how this project 18 ‘perhaps slightly unusual m tht all the emall parts are cur cout on the scrall saw. ‘When youhave a clear understanding of how-tha Parts fit togather, talte the twa 5/:"-thick piaces of bak that make up the sector support—the spacer and the front plate—end use the compasees rular and enft'no. 2 ‘pancil to draw the dasign on the best-looking piece. ‘With the twa piaoas of wood clamped sacurely ‘tngather, establish the posttinn of the sector pivat hhole, and dil with the '/" drill bit Push alength of" dowel through the pivathole to hhold the two pieces of wood together, and cut the ‘wedigeliie shapa out on the scroll saw (Fig 2-8) FIGURE 2-2 ‘Mama sure tno backed 18 sot at right angles amd atkynod wrt ‘Maconterline. HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 23. Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material Have atrial fitting of the two cutouss on tha backboard (Pig 2-4). Pix the pasition of the wedge- ‘pag hole centar point, and mark on the spacer plata the area thatneeds to becut away With the pivot pin still in place, use thee" dri bit ‘to ram the wedge-pog hole through tha twa places af wood. Nate: dont forget to hack up the workpiace when, Srilling witha piace of sorep wood to pravent tearout. Having achieved two identical cutouts, teke the one thatis to be sandwiched between the front plate and ‘the backboard and cut eway the waste, the whola 2/"-damatar otrela with the '/"-diameter pivot hale, Cut a plece af.’ dowel ta langth—so it passes through the sector plate, the spacer end tha hackboard—saw a plot about '/:" down mto the end of tha Sowel, and Imtfe cuta shavingof waste ta fit ‘Align the dowel sn the wadge slot runs across the grain, end have a trial fitting just to soefthe wedge ‘holds the tenon in place in ite hole (Fig 2-5). CUTTING AND LAMINATING ‘THE CROSSHEAD JOINT ‘Jakethe thres pisces of wood thatmake upthe crosshead joint—tha twa piocas of oak at about '/i" ‘thick end the piace of clive at about Y/e" thick—and sandwich them togsther so the oliveisthe filmy and tha (rain rung vertically up and down, Mark the three layers “op! “middle and “bot! Draw the design on tha top hoard, forthe postion of the center point, and then tap a pin through the waste azea ta Link all thrae layers, FIGURE 2-5 ‘Aga the stat sot runs at right angles tothe grata, andhave a ‘tial ting of he weoge Irall scarrect,a push It shen be ‘enaugh to held the tone firm. FIGURE 2-6 ‘Saw througn the thres-Layared stackte achieve tre identical ‘eutoate, Moto bow my beavy-handod mall ining Wary moarty resulted. ‘tn acomplote mess-1p—ith aspilt rumniag along the grain. Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGUREZ-7 “ete, Run the 4"-diameter pivot hale through all three layers and push home a ganerous length of 3/3" sowel (Fig 2-6) go Werh all thres layers of wood held secure hy both the pin and the dovel, fret out the shape on the scroll saw. When you have achieved the cutout and carefully removed the dowel so you have three layers, mark on the middle layer the area that needs to be cut away a27). FICUREZ-8 ‘Smear Glas en:muating faces, align the Boles with the pivet dowel, ‘and than caratany clamp up. oO Cut away the waste, replace the dowel, and then gine and clamp the three layers ta make up the unit (Fig 2-8), When tha glue is dry, rum a ¥¢"-chameter hola ‘through the base of the companent, and hava atrial fitting nf the punch rad, MAKING THE BRACKET AND SECTOR Have alook at the warking drawing (Fig 2-1A) and ‘templates (Fig 2-IB), and seshow thetwo components—the bracket and tha sector—are simple {flstwood profiles that are cut out on the ecrall saw, ‘Take the */'-thick piace of wood youve set aside for ‘thebracket and use the panetl, ruler and compasses ‘to mark ellthe linge that make up the design. Batablish the position of tha punch rod hole, and run 1 through with tha3/s"-diametar drill at. Nota: be ‘munciful thet the precise position of the bracket hole, magning its distance frum the backboard, will relate to the finiehed thicknesses of the sactor, the connecting rod and ‘the crnssheed joint: If you are at all unsure as ta the finished size5 youcan make the bracket at a later sta cor youcan allow extra depth ta the-bracket, and than tram back wi, ‘When yowhave double-checked that all is correct, ut gut the bracket an tha soroll saw. ‘Take the pisca of wood for the sector weight—all marked aut and measured and with aclear cantar ine—end give it nother look-over, just to make sure the ‘three holes ara well placed Na problem with the 7/4" ‘duameter finger holo—1t can ‘be just shout anywhers on ‘the center Ime—but thetwo/#’ pivatholesnesd careful Positioning The top pivot hole must be at the center of wing, meaning at the center of the +/«"-dlemoter circa of ‘wood, while the cannecting red pivot hole must he centered ahowt’/:" up from the bottom of the arc HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE #5 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material With all the lines and canter points in-place, and having carefully chacked for accuracy, drill the three hholes on the drill press—'/4" diameter for the twa pivat hholes and /.’ diameter for the finger hole (Fig 2-9). Lastly, but out the proiila on the sorall saw. MAKING THE CONNECTING ROD ‘Jake the '/"-thick piece of olive you've put aside for ‘the eonnecting md and markit with a canter line ‘that runsin the direction of the grain. Mark the line with ‘two canter pointe thet ere 1'/2" apart, and draw in all the lines that make upthe dasign—the twa 7/’ cucles and o Run the two canter points through with a /¥'-diemater dri bi, and then have a trial fitting to Unk up the sector and the crosshead joint (Pig 2-10). If ‘eed be,reduce the thickness and diamater of the battom. ‘endef tha rad so :t1 m goad, lone fit hetwaan the ears of ‘the crosshaed (Pig 2-11) Having cur the profile cutan the scrollsaw, take a ‘small, sharp knife and set ta wark whittling the straight part of the rod to a roundish section. The best technique (sto bet the circls lime tn with a stop-cut—on hhoth sides of the wood and at bath ends—and than to ‘carefully slice the blade into the stap-cut sp the waste falls eway If you work with a careful, thumb braced Baring cut, you wonthave any problems with the Inife suipping (Fig 2-12) BG HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE FIGURE 2-10 ‘Mave trial Miting of bet tae socter wrakgat and the parttathy ‘worked connecting rod. Adjust the various taickesses 20 tho moevoment is smeoth and easy. FIGURE 2-11 ‘Tomutmtze frictin, adjust the taickness of te wood at me ‘end of the rod and tnsida the ears a tae ena. Use & twtst ot ‘sandpaper tn eusare that the end-f-rod hole Is aleose fitonthe 17 ¢-ataqmotar dowel, FIGURE 2.12 ‘Deo. tight, Cam-braeod partag ext te who tne red te a round ‘section, Werk from thecantor through to the stap-cat: Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material When you have roundad end slightly lawared the roundsection en the flat faces of the end circles tend slightly im relief, wee a scrap af sandpaper and rubs down the knife-worked areata a smooth finish, ‘Take the tall, round-topped backboard and mark, drill andeut the various holes andthe crosshead pivot runnerslat PICUREZ-13 (Ccese te parts ever fur Sizws and blecuishes. Tura a damaged ‘apo away po tho Naw is niga fram viow. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have completed ll the component parts Sol hat makoup the project (Fig 2-13), thon comas tha fun of trying ‘to get everything togethar so it works! When you ere happy with the overall finish, glue and pay the Jow backboard to thehasaso it's at right angles It's important that everything is square, Sect hoard plac nthe bse esac FE rer raat cath whole wets together with a couple of ¥/\'-diamater dowel pegs (Fig 26) ae tu poge rnc cag ler es trod We tha daa weld to pevethetinittheswing of tevedor weight Slide the end of the connecting rod anta the crosshead joint, push the dowel pivot in place, and check for a smooth, caey fit (Fig 2-16) Iteed be, reduce ‘the wooden therod and, mn tha rad hole or mthe Jownt— othe mnvement is smacth running. FIGURE 2-15 ‘Sot tocemnoe tinged and joint iti place on tha pumen red, ‘and locate the dawel in the guide slot. ‘HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 27 Copyrighted MaterialFIGURE 2-16 ‘Set the joint in place on top of the punch red, and hold the two togothor with a round toothpick dowel, Push the punch dowel into place in the bottom of the Joint, and erilland fit with a round toothpick that runs through the whole width of the unit (Fig 2-16), Be stands ot neti an ntl washes Phe sector ovis and apie sein nd nntngun it Sringe wth theminimamotieton a2) so the circle of wood around the pivot Use a dowel to link the top end of the connecting rod to the sector (Fig 2-18) so the dowel is a tight iit in ‘tha sector hole end a loose easy fit inthe rod end. TOW ee cnet tor tant tection ng 910) alt staat aay ne use 0alars ad aw When youare pleased with the fit, finish and function, glue the whole works in place, rub down all ‘tha surfaces with a sheat of fine-nrade sandpaper, wipe the dust, and give the project « wipe with the teak ail, PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyoulike the ideaof tis project bt want to change ‘thedesign, t's important you realize that the relationship ‘between the swing of the sector weight and the length of the connecting rod is ential + Ityoudecite to medi the design end are et allunsure about the feasibility of the design, it's best to make a ‘working medel 86 HARMONICOSCH ON PUNCH MACHINE FIGURE 2.17 (top left) Reduce the total thickness of the back face by about ‘Yet. Run a guideline arsund the odge, and man saw cut down, {nto the face—between the pivot circle and the sector face so the ivat aroa will be left to actas a washer or distance piece. (right) 1 you decide ta clear the'/" slice of waste an the band ‘sam, then ran adawel through the pivot hole 20 you han ‘handhold. Having ran a'/.* hole through the sector dowel pivot and followed through with around toothpick, sat the Aowel pivot in place in the backboard hole, oats FIGURE 2:16 FIGURE 218 Link the connecting redand Get the plate and epacerin ‘thocector woight with ashort place on thesector woight ongth of dowelso the dowel is pivot, and adjust foran aasy ‘a tight push fit in the sect moverent. ‘and a loose easy fitin the ed.PROJECT 3 Cam and Fork Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND This machine isa joy to makeand a joy to watch, Our dictionary describes a cam as baing a rotating eyl- inder with an irragular profile attached te a revolving shaft to give a reciprocating motion to @ part connected ta it” ‘With our machine, the off-center, or eccentrically mounted, disk is the cam, while the fork is the in-contact connection that gives reciprocating motion, When the crank handle is tumed—clockwise or counterclockwise—the cam revolves ecentrically on its ‘fixed bearing, with the effect that the fork and control rod oscillate on the pillar bearings. The fork is fixed on the rod, while the rod is free to slide from side to side through ‘tha bearinge. PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Haye alook at the project pictuze (right), the working dram- ing (Fig 9.14) and the tomplates (Fig 9-18), and note that ‘tha disk cam is pin fixed to.a shaft in such a way that its movement is off-center. Consider carefully how, when the contained off-center disk cam turns, the fork has no option but to track and follow the cam protile. Although the design is pretty flexible—inasmuch as ‘there is noreason you can't chop and change various woad thicknesses and dowel sizes to suit your needs—the size of ‘thedisk cam, thedistance between the fork prongs, and the distance between the sice of the fork and the support stan- chions are all critical, That sald, if you have a notion to change wood sizes, it best to sort out potential problems by making a cardboard-and-pins prototype. CAMAND TORK MACHINE a9CAM AND FORK MACHINE FORK MACKINE‘Copyrighted Material CAM AND FORK MACHINE WORKING DRAWING CAMAND FORK MACHINE. 1 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material CAM AND FORK MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 2-18 ‘Tho scale is four (grid squares tor". [A Stenchions or plas Fok © Disk com, D Compon. B Crank, 3B CAM AND FORK MAL Copyrighted MaterialCHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘This is one of those projects where you might—if you are pressed—reduce wood thickness to suit your steck ar your ‘wallet, Por example, the base and the stanchions could be @ bit thinner—say */." instead of 1” he worked from offeuts. We chose ta use mahogany for the cam, fork, crank, crank handle and rod-end pills, and North American tulip for the base, stanchions, and one or two bits and pieces, ‘while the fittings could MAKING THE BASE ‘Take the piece of I’-thick tulip woad—the piece for the base—and with the grain running along, the length, use the pencil, ruler and square to mark it any a5", Fea inter ameter cts tha nave w eat ortecomer utes ig 914) Use els Your eine coon nee Buen ‘When you have cut the hase to size, use the giaded sandpapers torub down all faces and edges toa smaath finish. Pay particular attention tothe top face and edges and then pencil mark the underside. MAKING THE STANCHION PILLARS Draw the shape of the stanchions to size on the ‘work-out paper, and then—being mindful that the grain must run from top totoe—use the pencil, raler and compasses to mark the image on your chosen wood. Repeet the procedure so you havetwo identical meges FIGURE 3-2 ‘When using the scroll saw, control the rate of feed so the bladais, always prosented with the ine of next eut ifthe cut is ragged, the [Made is too slack or the wood is tac moist. Ifthe wood is scorched, ‘te lade needs changing or you are working at the wrong pace. Having doublo-chacked from pillar to pillar that tho circla center-points, meaning the points that mark the center of the rod hole, ara the same distance up from ‘the baseline, use the scroll saw to cut out the two identical forms (Fig 3-2). ‘With the cutout securely clamped flet on the work surface, take the /." U-section carving gauge and lower the top-of-stanchion “Iugs;’ or eer-like protrusions, by about '/«", Do this with both tugs on both faces, so when seen in edge-on view the wood curves down from the face toa thickness of about /-" (Figs 9-9 and 9-1A). FIGURE 3-3 ‘With the workpiece secured flat on the work surface—with a ‘clamp or up against a bonch stop—use tha U-section gougato CAM AND TORK MACHINE 38FIGURE 3: ‘With the workpiece supported on a waster to prevent exit ‘damage, bore out the /." hearing holeand the?/."blind hole, [Noto: we have removed the clamp for the photograph. ‘i ii Said a aaa decnatie date nd hel Aim a hina ole avabant doo (84) ‘Take your fine-grade sandpaper and bring all the edges to good order. Aim for edges that are slightly rounded, ‘When the tlme comes to sink the decorative cut ‘that runs eround the top of the stanchion, fimly brace the workpiece against the bench hook, and use the fine-toothed saw to sink the cuts to a depth af about ve (Fla 3-5). FIGURE 3-5 ‘Firmly butt the workpiece against the bench hook, adjust the ‘angle of cut so thesaw runs against the side of the hook, and ‘then sink the cut to a depth of about '/." 84 CAMAND PORE MACHINE between 2 couple of steel blocks 20 itis ‘square with the surface and the dri! bit and ran the Ings through ‘with the -/«"dlameter Bit. Note: If you ike woodwork, you can't do better than sot yourself up with a good selection of clamps, ‘Wehave pincaraction clamps for amall wark, taggle clamps f ‘machina hold-downs, and a0 on. peg Having dried thetwo face holes, then comes the tricky task of drilling the fg and foot holes. say tricky because, with both the lug and the foot, the holes need to berun into acurved face, When you come to drill ‘the lug hole—an¢ bearing in mind that the dil bit will try to push the curved surface to one side—fhist set the workpiece square between a couple of hesvy blocks, and thon hold it in place with a goad clamp. Thic done, run ‘the’/."-diameter hole through the thickness of the Tug (Fig 3-8), ‘To drill he /«"-diameter foot hole, set the workpiece on a stack of scrap so the hole is angled in toward center. Use a long, shanked hit so as to avotd contact ‘between the chuck and the top of the pillar (Fig 3-7),FIGURE 3-7 ‘Make a simple wedge-and-stop jig to help you hold and support ‘tha workpioce while the hole is being drilled. MAKING THE CAM POST Have alook at the working drawing (Fig 3-1) and templates (Fig 3-18), and see that the controls, meaning the parts you turn, are made up of fixed post, crank crank handle, crank handle pin, or pivot, washer to distance the crank from the pest, disk cam and pivot rod. ‘Mark the size and shape of the post on your chosen wood—we use tulip wood—double-check the dimensions, and then eat aut the curvea-top tront view on the scroll saw. ‘Mark the position af the pivot rod hole, and run it ‘through with the Y/-"-diameter éril bit. It's important that the holeand the bottom of the hole are hath square and true with the base, so aim to get it right the first time around, Draw in the “feet”—as sean in side view—and then cut them out on the scroll saw (Fig 3-6), FIGURE 3-8 ‘When you have cnt out the little post infront view and drilled ‘therod hole, draw out the carved-foot,side-view design, and ‘complete the cut on theserell, ‘TURNING THE HANDLE, PIVOT PIN AND ROD PILLS ‘Take the length of square saction mahogany, establish the end center points by drawing crossed diagonals, and set it securely on the lathe. Having made sure you and the lathe are in good, safe order, swiftly turn down the piece of mahogany to the largest possible diameter. ‘Use ihe alviaers to mark all te step-ofts mat make up the design. Working from left ro right along the ‘turning, allow a small amount for headstock waste—sithor forthe chuck or for parting off—about /." for the handle pivot head, °/:" for the pivot, 2” for the handle, 1" far one pill,)/«’ for waste, 1” for the other pill, and a small amount for tailstack wast (Fig 3-94). FIGURE 3-94 Use the dividers to mark the cylinder with al the stop-ofte ‘hatmaxe up the design, ‘Working from left te ight slong the workplace, allaw '/." for chuck,*/." for the ‘mushroom head °/" for the pivat shank, 2” for the handle, 1 forthe frst pl, '/<" for ‘waste, 1" forthe secand pill, anda final small amount for waste, CAM AND TORK MACHINE. 95‘Use the calipers to check the diameters against the working ‘drawings. Note if you are working with a limited numberof drill ‘hit sizes, be eure to adjust the width ofthe pivot shank to suit ‘your chosen bit diameter. Having first removed the bulk of the waste, use the round. nosed gouge and the skew chisel toturn down the wand to shana and size. Make rapeated checks with the calipers (Fig 3-88) ‘Tum and sané the string of turnings ta good finish, and carefully part off from the lathe. MAKING THE CRANK, HANDLE AND CAM ‘Take a’/"-thick piece of mahogany offcut and use a ‘pencll, ruler ana pair of compasses ta draw tne shape of the crank end the little washer spacer. Plan on ‘tha crank being about 1’ between centers (Fig 9-1B). ‘With all the lines of the design clearly established, first run /."-diameter holes through the crank and the spacer, and then use the scroll saw to cut out the shapes. While the drill is convenient, runa hole into the tured hendle to a depth and size to sult your turned mushroom-headed peg. non youake te bt ca, you cnet eu ‘Whan you have what you consider is a good disk— nicely sanded ta a smooth finish—nun it through with @'/.’-diameter shaft hole, and then have a trial fitting (Fig 3:10) 88 CAM AND FORE MACHINE ne FIGURE 3-10 ‘ave a trial fitting to make sure all the control column parts ‘come together for asmeoth-working fit 1 you have followed our directions to tha letter, you ‘will need to adjust selected nales or parts of the dowel shaft to achieve a suitable fit, For example, the handle pag neade to bo « tight fit in the hands and aloos: fit rough the crank Than again, the dawal shaft needs to be a tight fit in the crank and disk cam, while being & loose easy fit through the little stanchion (Fig 3-11). Play around with the fit until you get it right. FIGURE 3-11 If need ho, sand the holes or dowelsto achieve an appropriate fit. ‘The tte pivot needs to be a lovee Ae tarough the shank and a ‘ight push ft nthe handle. MAKING THE FORKED FOLLOWER you havea look at the working drawing (Fig 3-18) ‘and templates (Fig 3-18), you will see that the forked follower, or frame, is cut from */:"-thick wood, with the grain running from top to bottom and the inside fork width being the same as tha diameter of the disk cam.Having drawn the frame on your piece of prepared ‘wo0d, give it @ good checking over just to make sure ‘you haven't made any mess-ups, and then carefully fret cout the frame on the scroll saw. If you takeit at an easy pace, all the while being, realy to pull Lack if he blade snatches, tne cut face will be so smooth it will oaly require the minimum, of carding, ‘Take the cutout and carefully draw diagonals to establish the position of the through-top rod, or shatt, hole. FIGURE 3-12 ‘Drilling the rod hole through the tap of the forked frame ts slightly tricky Inasmuch as while the hole needs torun squareand true, ‘meat drill bitsare too short. A good method is to establish the points for tha halos, clamp the warkpiace t= square fron ‘block, and than run the holes through from both sides. Hold the workpiece secure with blocks anda clama 50 the hole is going to be well placed and true, and run it through with along, shanked /s" hit (Fig 9-12).1If your bit isn’t long enough, turn the whole works around, and drill it through from the other side. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘When you have completed al! the component parts ‘that make up the design, thon comes the exciting Dut fingor-twisting task of putting everything together. You should have ten primary parts in ell: the hase, two stanchions, disk cam post, disk cam, washer, crank, handle, handle pin, two end-of-rod pills, arstops,anda ‘whole heap of dowels cut to size (Fig 3-13), Before you do much else, take the finest-grade sancpaper and rub down all faces, edges and comers toa smocth tinish, Give all the surtaces—narring ‘the mating faces that are tobe glued~a swiftrubdown with a omall emount of toak oil. Having cut all the rods and dowels to length, spend timerubbing them down with a scrap of sandpaper so they are an appropriate fit and all the on-view ends are nicaly rounded. Have all the ends standing slightly forward by about!/."-*/:". when you have generally brought everything to good order, start the fitting by pegging and agjusting the three posts. FIGURE 3-13 alt the componeat parts that ‘make up the project, check all the measurements against the working drawing and template design, and then sand allthe surfaces down CAM AND FORK MACHINE 37FIGURE 3-14 ‘Align the throe posts so they are true, and fix with the pogs. o Glue, neg and tit the disk cam, crank and handle, and carefully adjust one with another so they are square and parfectly aligmed (Fig 9-14), Slide the forked follower on its rod, and peg or glue. Slip the ends of the rods through the bearings so the fork straddles the disk cam (Fig 9-16). FIGURE 3-15 Slide the forked framecver the cam, and ft the other post Note ‘how the top of the frame has hoon roundad. 88 CAM AND FORE MACHINE FIGURE 3.16 ‘Whon you've finally put the whale machine together, spend tima ‘making sare all co yronts are square and tras towack other. ‘With all the patts variously giued or pegged in place, test for squareness, make sure the machine works, and then put it to one side until the glue is set (Fig 3-16). Finally, give the whole works another rubdown with the teak oil, and then the fun can begin! PROBLEM SOLVING + Thyou like the Idea of this project but want tochange mie ‘design, uo problem, a3 long as you make sure the eamand ‘ork are compatible. + Having made the project, Gill thinks the base and the stanchons would look even better if they were cut from ‘slightly thinner wood. That seid, Ilike the thickness ofthe ‘wood, but 'am nat sokeen about its colorand textire, + Ifyou want to make the project but can'tget use of a lathe, ‘settle for making the crank handle from a shop-bought dowel. + Asthe distance between the side ends ofthe forked follower and the inside faces cf the standsis ctical—the machine ‘wort work unless i right—make sure everything is smooth sunning before you give up-PROJECT 4 In-the-Round Combustion Engine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘Although the in-the-round combustion machine is in es sence much like tha reciprocating machine, ac shown in projact 6, it is inmany ways all tha mora exciting in that it can—like a piece of sculpture—be seen and enjoved from all angles, The turn-handle movement attractively illus- trates how the up-and-down operation of a piston is con- verted, by way of a crank, into rotary motion (right) PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1) and the tem plates (Fig 4-2), and see that at a grid scale of two squares to, the machine stands almost 12” high and over 6° wide across the span of the drive shaft, Consider that the greater part of the machine is made up of threo beautifully com plex turnings:the hase, which is dritled and hollow turned the quatrefoll top, which is both drilled and fretted halfway ‘through the turning stage; and the cylinder whichis tamed, drilled and then sawn. ‘Though the project is challenging, a lot of the tricky procedures relate not so much to your skill level, aut to your equipment. Modify the stages to fit your tool kit. OK, 80 it might take a lot longer, but then the pleasure is, inne doing! IN-THE-ROUND NINE 39IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE 40. N-THE-ROUND COMaUSTION ENGINEIN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 4-1 ‘At agrid scale of two squares ‘to 1, the machine stands ‘almost 12” high and about of the hase, bite halls I-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE €1‘Fh scala La tee ld equaren 2 Mate at ee barre shy sewn what wen cxnaldee are he were dice te eeatineCUTTING LIST A Base 2x77 easy-to-tum beech Bp a7 7easytotumtlip Piston B/e*2'/e% 6 bosch D Aision md War 7a beech E Crankshaft bearings 1" 3/e* € mahogany @, Frank plates 7eheny Hance oranke alas H Enc 2 /e dowel Standredsand shaft 60°—/s" dowel CHOOSING YOUR WooD ‘This 1s one of those projects where the choice of wood is all important; i's got to be just right. We have chosen European beech for the piston and base, because it's easy to turn and yet strong across the short grain, and tulip for ‘tha top, because it's hoth easy to turn and easy to work on the scroll saw. MAKING THE ENGINE CASE AND BASE Have a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1) and templates (Fig 4-2), and see thatthe quatrefoil component at the top of the engine—we call it ‘tha engine or piston case—is both tured on the lathe ‘and worked with me saw and drill Note also the shape ofthe base. o ‘Take the 2-thick slabs of tulip and fix the center point by drawing crossed diagonals, ‘Mark the slab with a 8'/-"-diameter circle, Cut away the waste on the scroll saw or band saw. Screw the resultant disk on the 6” faceplate using short, fat screws, With the tool rest set aver the hed of the lathe, turn down te woud toa smooth 6”-diameter disk and true up the face. Use the dividers to markthe disk with a 2:/: diameter circle, and then tum down the waste so the a2" circle stands up as a /:"-high plateau (Fig 4-3), ‘Mount the drill chuck on the tailstock, iit the 1/0" Forstner bit, and run a hole through the center of the plateau (Fig 4-48). FIGURE 4-3, ‘Mount the Mank on thelathe, and turn dawn the edge and profile. ‘Seohow 1 use around-nosed scraper for the inside curve. ‘Mark the lowered area with a couple of guiceline circles, oneat about /:" from the edge, for the postholeg, and one about °/.” outaide the plateau, forthe profileline Having iirst rubbed down the tuning toa smooth, ‘finish, take it off the lathe—off the faceplate—and set to work on the tumed face of the wood, drawing in all the ines that make up the quatrefoil design, Pencil lebel the turned face “hottom, fix the position of the four pasthales on the guideline circle—at £0° mtervals—and establish the shape of the cross-armns. Make the arms about 1/2" wide and all the comers and angles nicely rounded (Figs 4-1 ana 4-2 top), FIGURE 4-48 ‘ore out the piston hole with a Forstner bit. Advance and retreat ‘with the tailatock so as notte harnor clog the bit. IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTIONENSINE 48sme to clear table eo the ext {nos aro at right angles to the working face. un the holes through with the:/:"-diameter drill bit, and cut the quatrefoil profile out on the scroll saw (Fig 4-48), ‘When you have completed the cross—all drilled and out—mount it on the expanding jaws option of the chuck, and set to work turning dawn what wilt ba the “top" face (Py 4-5). 1 used the small, round-nosed gouge and ‘ths round-nosed scraper. ub down the whole works with the fine-atade sandpaper Doone face of the turning, then tum it over on the chuck and do the other face. If you rub down one face as it points toward the bed of the lathe plus the ditficult-to-reach face hetween the whole piece and the chuck, you will find that the change of direction ensures that all the edges are well rounded. Having achieved a well-turned and finished componant, redo the same procoduras and tum tho each wood basa. That is to say, turn down the wood toa 61/2" disk and run a1'/-" borehole through the disk ‘Tum down the top-of-base profile so the underside rim of the cross is a neat fit in the hole (Fig 4-8). OUND COMBUSTION ENGINE FIGURE 4-5 ‘With the workpiece held securely on the expanding jaws of the ‘chuck, uae a round-nosed teol to turn down whet will he the underside: the casing. Goat itnice and easy, all the while being ‘mindful that this isa stage that needs ta be worked with oxtroma ‘care and caution, FIGURE 4-5 ‘Tum ont the base hole until the neck of the top casing isa nice slide ft, ‘Take the whole works off the lathe—the turning on the faceplate— set the arose camponent in place ee) ‘the cross plateau is in the hole, and then use the four holes on the cross to drill four matching holes through the base (Fig 4-7), ‘Finally, remount the base on the lathe and drill, and turn the profile in much the same way as already described. Check your turniag against the working drawing (Fig 4-1 bottom.FIGURE 4-7 ‘With the nse still screwed to the faceplate, and using the ‘quatrefoil easing aa a pilot guide, bore out thefour postholos. MAKING THE CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS ‘When you hava studied the working drawing (Fig 4-1) 0 you know what you are doing take the V’-thick place of mahogany andusethe pencil ruler, equere and ‘compasses to mark the design as seen in side view. With all the Lines in place, and having first established the exact position of the various noles— Doth the bearing holes and the postholes—bore the holes out with the /." diameter bit. Be careful when you run the posthales dawn through the 1" thickness of the wood; he sure they are well aligned and true, ‘Take the wood, all marked and drilled, and fret out the two side-view profiles (Fig 4-B), ‘Mark the plan-view imagery on the newly revealed cut faces, and then hegin shaping and sculpting with he scroll saw, xnite ana tube rasp (Fig 4-8). Continue whittling, rasping and sanding until you ‘have two well-matchad forms (Fig 4-10). MAKING THE CRANK AND CONNECTING ROD Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1), templates (Fig 4-2) and the various photographs, and see that the crank is achieved by having two identical plates and offset dowels. FIGURE 4-8 ‘Seahow the postholos mn through the thickness of thewoed. ‘Use the knife, rasp and sandpaper to whittle the crankshaft ‘hearings to shape. Be careful nct to force the blade at the relatively fragt short-graimod areas. FIGURE ‘Have repeated fittings until the compoxonts come together for a good fit Cut the */-"-thick cherry into two crank-sized pieces, draw the imagery out on one of the pieces, and then ‘ix them together with a single pinat one corner. Keep the ‘pin out of the design area. IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTIGNENSINE 48FIGURE 4-11 ‘Fitting the single pin and two dowols at the presaw stage ensures ‘that the two crank platos are identical mirror-image cutouts. ore and dowel plug the two /:"-diameter shaft holes right through both pieces of wood, first one hole end thon the other. Usa leagthe of eerap dowel. With the holes in place, begin fretting out the crank shape on the scroll saw. Work at a steady, even nace, all the while feeding the wood into the blade so the line of cut isa litle to the waste side of the drawn line (Fig 4-11) Having first drawa the shape of the connecting rod on the 1"-thick beach and variously fixed the position of the rod holes, tret out te connecting roa profile as drawn (Fig 412). Draw the side-view imagery of the rod an the sawn face, mark in the waste, and then slice it off on the saw (Fig 4-19). is FIGURE 4-12 ‘While you are busy at the scroll saw, you might as well fret out ‘the connecting rod and crank handle. ae KTHE OUND COMBUSTION ENGINE FIGURE 4-13 ‘slice away the connocting rad wastes sean ia top view. Use the knife and rasp to shape tha connecting rod ‘Take your small, sharp knife and whittle the straight part of the rod to a roundish section. The best technique is to set the circle lines of the ends in with a stop-cut oa both sides of the wood and atboth endsand then to carefully slice the blade into the stop-cut so the waste falls away. ‘When you have shaped and lowered the round. ‘section so the flat faces of the end circles stand somewhat in relief, take a scrap of sandpaper and generally rub down the whole workpleze ta a emooth, slightly round-edged finish, ‘When you have finished fretting and shaping the connecting rod, and drilled out the two hales, go back to the crank plates and wedge the /-" shaft dowels in place (Fig 4-14). The dowels have to run true, so spend time making sure everything is aligned. MAKING THE PISTON Set your chosen square section length of wood on, ‘the lathe, and use the large gouge to swiftly tum, down the wood toa diameter of °/.” Ital is eorreet, 13/ ‘will be slightly larger than the hole thet runs through the cross-shaped unit at the top of the engine. FIGURE 4.14 ‘Slot and wedge the drive shaft stubs into the crank plate. Don’t ‘alae at this stage,FIGURE 4-15 ‘When you think the piston turning is to site, wind back the tails ‘tack and have trial fitting. FIGURE 4-16 ‘Aim for a nice, smaothrstiding it. ‘This done—and having first set the calipers to the exact diameter of the cresspiece hole—take the skew chisel and turn down the piston so it isan aasy-slide fit in the case hole. The best procedure isto carefully draw the tallstack out of the way and then to try the cross casing on for size (Figs 4-15 and 4-16), Fit the tailstock drill chuok on the lathe, and use the 1V/e-diameter bit ta run a hele down into the cylinder (Fig 4-17). Puch the piston through the eeroll caw—or you might profer to uso ahandsaw—and take an angled slice from each side (Figs 4-18 and 4-2). un a pencil guideline up, down and around the piston, and drill out the /«"-dlameter pinhole— ‘through one side and out the other. It might be agood idea to plug the center of the piston with a length of waste to minimize exit dameqe. FIGURE 4-17 ‘Use the tailstock drill chuck to bore out the piston waste. ‘Advance cautiously so as not ts neck the workpiece aff-contor. FIGURE 4: ‘ave a trial fitting of the connecting rod small end in the piston. ‘The pinneeds to boa tight ft in the piston and a loose fit through ‘thosmall end. Have a trial fitting of the small end of the connecting rod in the piston (Fig 4-19). ROUND COMBUSTION‘Copyrighted Material ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING erg When you havs before you ol ths componsnt parts that makeup the project (Fig 4-20), then comesthe itficult task of putting the machme tagether. Start by fitting the small end of tha connecting rod_ in the piston, Aum fora tight firof the pin through tha sides of the piston anda Jose fit of the'pin through the small end, [fneed be,rub cur selected holes or parts af the pin until everything itts just right (Pigs 4-2l and 4-22) When you are happy with the fit of the small end in the piston, take the two crank plates—complate with ‘thetr lengths of drava shaft dewel—and link them with a ‘short length of dawel that runs through the ig end hearing at the end of tha connecting rod. Make therod about 2" long (Fig 4-23). Don't glue at this stage. go One piece ata time, ft the piston in the crose- shaped casing, set the crankshaft hearing in place on the dowel ends (Fig 4-24), and sat the patr of bearings on the four support dowels (Fig 4-25). Pit lite pags t2 hhold the various components at the carrect height, FIGURE 4-21 Pass the short length of crank dawel throagl the big end, and Continue fitting and sandingand generally easing © ceCIEAOT aN easy, well-alignod fit. ‘until tha whole machine comes tgether. 48 -THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE Copyrighted Material