Getting Started

Admittedly, we are writing this article at the

tail end of the spring "bulb" season, but
there is still plenty of time to do this project.
Next year, if you want to start earlier, we
recommend that you print or save this
article, and you can start forcing your bulbs
in October for January flowers, November
for February flowers, and December for
March-April flowers.
Forcing really just means that we are going
get a plant to flower at a time or under
conditions that are not natural to its normal
life-cycle.
We will be working with hardy bulbs that
can take this kind of treatment, and
depending upon when you start, you can
have a succession of indoor color from
January to April.
Now before we go any father, we will be
using the term "Bulbs" very loosely. Many
of the plants we talk about may actually be
a true bulb, but others may be a tuber, a
tuberous root, or a corm.
So, for clarification, we have a list below
telling you which plant is what kind of
"bulb".
Professional Tip: We will be forcing our
bulbs in pots, but, you can also force bulbs
in flats. Using flats is a great way to get
huge amounts of flowers if you are
planning to use them in cut flower
arrangements. Some peoples' objective is
to have winter cut flowers. If you had to
buy winter cut flowers, the cost would be
huge, so keep in mind, if flower
arrangements are appealing to you, plant
in flats.

bulbs in pots, but, you can also force bulbs

in flats. Using flats is a great way to get
huge amounts of flowers if you are
planning to use them in cut flower
arrangements. Some peoples' objective is
to have winter cut flowers. If you had to
buy winter cut flowers, the cost would be
huge, so keep in mind, if flower
arrangements are appealing to you, plant
in flats.

Most Common Bulbs For Forcing

Pictures of each to the right

Amaryllis:

Amaryllis - true bulb

Brodiaea - corm

Brodiaea:

Crocus - corm
Eranthus - tuber
Erythronium - corm

Crocus:

Fritillaria - true bulb

Galanthus- true bulb
Hyacinth- true bulb
Eranthus:

Iris reticulata - true bulb

Leucojum vernum - true bulb
Muscari - true bulb
Narcissus - true bulb

Erythronium:

Ornithogalum - true bulb

Oxalis adenophylla - true bulb
Scilla tubergeniana - true bulb
Tulip- true bulb
Hard to Force: Because the following
bulbs require specialized techniques, and

Fritillaria:

Oxalis adenophylla - true bulb

Scilla tubergeniana - true bulb

Fritillaria:

Tulip- true bulb

Hard to Force: Because the following
bulbs require specialized techniques, and
are usually greenhouse grown, we are not
going to talk about growing:
Allium - true bulb
Camassia - true bulb
Scilla campanulata - true bulb
Lilies - true bulb

Galanthus:

Hyacinth:

Iris reticulata:

Leucojum vernum:

Muscari:

Narcissus:

Ornithogalum:

Narcissus:

Ornithogalum:

Scilla tubergeniana:

Tulip:

4 Basic Steps
Here are the four steps we will be going
over:
Purchasing and maybe preliminary storage
Planting
Cooling
Forcing into Flower
The key to each step is appropriate
timing!

Purchasing
When you buy your bulbs, be picky! It's OK
to demand quality because let's face it,
bulbs can be pricey and you want the best
you can get for your money. There is
always going to be a wide variation in the
quality and size of bulbs available

Good Example:

Purchasing

Good Example:

When you buy your bulbs, be picky! It's OK

to demand quality because let's face it,
bulbs can be pricey and you want the best
you can get for your money. There is
always going to be a wide variation in the
quality and size of bulbs available
commercially so look carefully before you
buy.
Different types of bulbs are available at
different times of the year, but for our
purposes, we want spring flowering bulbs,
because they are available in the fall from
around October to December. Try and buy
bulbs that are as fresh as possible and that
are healthy and firm with strong growing
points.
Avoid any bulbs with soft or diseased areas
or insect damage. Also, keep in mind any
bulbs that are much smaller than they
normally should be, may not produce
flowers in their first season.

Poor Example
Split Tunic:

Poor Example
No Tunic:

Tulips should have intact skins (also called

tunics) or they may be vulnerable to
disease.
When purchasing, also check the label or
bulb catalogs, because sometimes there
will be a notation that says "good for
forcing".
If you're going to work with tulips,
hyacinths, and daffodils since such a wide
number of varieties are available, make
sure you are buying similar types, because
they can be early-flowering or lateflowering, and you'll want to plant similar
types together.
You can purchase at a garden center, or
through catalogs, it doesn't matter as long
as they are offering quality plant material.
Pre-Plating Storage

Poor Example
Deterioration of Bulb
Tissue:

flowering, and you'll want to plant similar

types together.
You can purchase at a garden center, or
through catalogs, it doesn't matter as long
as they are offering quality plant material.
Pre-Plating Storage
If after purchasing your bulbs, for some
reason if you can't plant them up right
away, store them in a cool place 35 to 55
F (1.7 to 12.8 C). Your refrigerator is ideal
for this.
If they are packed in boxes or paper bags,
open them up to give them some ventilation
while they rest in your refrigerator. You can
store bulbs like this for several weeks, but
it's better to plant them as soon as possible.
Try and remember, however, that bulbs are
living plants, so handle them carefully, and
try and avoid putting them anywhere they
can freeze.
If you store them in the fridge, just make
sure there are NO apples. Apples produce
ethylene gas that can cause flowers to
abort. So during preliminary cooling and
later, don't have apples around!

Professional Tip: If you end up storing

your bulbs for 2 or 3 weeks, remember to
subtract that time from your cooling period.
So for example, you have bulbs that will
require 12 weeks of cooling, they will really
only need 9 or 10 more weeks of cooling
once you pot them up, because 2 to 3
weeks of that cooling are done.

Soil
Use a good general potting mix; one that is
has good organic content and drains really
well. A good basic potting mix will have 2
parts peat, 3 parts sand, and 4 parts

Soil:

Soil

Soil:

Use a good general potting mix; one that is

has good organic content and drains really
well. A good basic potting mix will have 2
parts peat, 3 parts sand, and 4 parts
compost or soil.
The most important thing is having soil that
has great drainage, since we don't want
the bulbs to rot.

Outdoor Planting
Depth:

Pots
You can use either clay or plastic pots, both
are good as long as they have drainage
holes in the bottom. I have always used
plastic because they are easier to find than
clay, just keep in mind they won't dry out as
quickly as a clay pot, so don't water your
bulbs as often, only as needed, when the
soil mix dries out.

This 6 inch (15 cm) is

OK:

Correct Planting Depths

The rule of thumb is that planting depth
depends on the size of the bulb.

This 6 inch (15 cm) is

OK:

Outdoors: we would use the height of the

bulb as a rough guide and plant the bulb 3
to 5 times deeper than that height, but
we're not doing that.
In Pots: Ideally, bulbs should be planted in
pots at the same depth as bulbs grown
outside, but this isn't always possible with
larger bulbs.
The solution to this problem is simple:
just make sure the pot is deep enough to
allow at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of moist soil
mix beneath the bulb.
I use standard 6 inch (15 cm) pots,
because they allow enough room for most
bulbs and can take at least 3 daffodils and
up to 5 or 6 tulip bulbs, depending upon

Both deep enough to

allow
at least 1 inch (2.5
cm)
soil beneath the bulbs:

The solution to this problem is simple:

just make sure the pot is deep enough to
allow at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of moist soil
mix beneath the bulb.

soil beneath the bulbs:

I use standard 6 inch (15 cm) pots,

because they allow enough room for most
bulbs and can take at least 3 daffodils and
up to 5 or 6 tulip bulbs, depending upon
their size.
In fact, tulips and hyacinths can have their
tips poking through the surface and they'll
still be just fine.
When filling the pot, allow about 1/2 inch (1
cm) of space below the rim of the pot to
allow for watering.

Planting
Choose bulbs of a similar size and the
same variety when you are forcing so you
get regular and similar sized flowers. For
crocus and other small bulbs, a 6 inch (15
cm) pot can hold up to 10 to 12 bulbs.
Place a minimum of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil
in the bottom of the pot, and space the
bulbs evenly on this. If we were planting in
the ground, spacing would be the 2 to 3
widths of the bulb apart, but in pots they
can be a finger width apart.
Don't press the bulbs into the soil mix, just
place them, because you want to avoid
compressing the soil beneath so you don't
hinder root formation later.
Leave about 1 finger-width between each
bulb.
Professional Tip: Position tulip bulbs with
the flat side facing out; the first leaf will
grow out over the edge of the pot making it
look more natural.

Finger Width Apart:

bulb.
Professional Tip: Position tulip bulbs with
the flat side facing out; the first leaf will
grow out over the edge of the pot making it
look more natural.

Continue to work soil between the bulbs

and firm very gently. Small bulbs should be
covered completely, but tulips and daffodils
may be left with the tip of the bulbs showing
if your pots are small.
Some people at this point suggest putting a
layer of sand or "grit" over the top layer of
soil to help with water retention or to make
the pot look better - I say forget it! You don't
need it, but if you want to, go ahead, it's just
another step.
Fertilizing
None! Bulbs contain enough food in them
for developing their roots and flowers, so
don't fertilize during the forcing process.
Labeling
This is important if you intend to stagger
your planting!
Many people start planting up bulbs in
October for January flowers, and then
continue to pot up bulbs through December
for April flowers.
If you do this, great, but label your pots!
Include:
The plant name
The variety
The date of planting
The date you intend to bring it indoors for
forcing
This really is the critical point here, because
timing is everything.

The variety
The date of planting
The date you intend to bring it indoors for
forcing
This really is the critical point here, because
timing is everything.

Timing
Most bulbs require a chilling period of about
14 to 15 weeks. You can cool them from 13
to 18 weeks depending upon the varieties
you have, but keep in mind if you don't cool
a late-flowering variety long enough, the
stems will be short, and if you cool an earlyflowering variety too long, you can develop
long stems.
So read your bulb labels carefully, and
clearly label your pots after planting them.
Don't worry! We'll give you a rule of thumb
about this further in the article to help with
this process.
Watering
Don't allow the soil to dry out completely, so
check frequently. As the bulbs begin to root
and grow, you will probably need to start
regularly watering - remember these are
living plants.

Cold Storage of Your Pots

There are 2 ways to do this, and both
work great.
First Way:
If you have the room, or a second fridge
you can store your pots in the refrigerator.
A root cellar, or a cool corner of a
basement work great too. As long as the
temperature remains between 35 to 45 F
(2-4 C), and there is very little light, you

Plunging The Pot:

First Way:
If you have the room, or a second fridge
you can store your pots in the refrigerator.
A root cellar, or a cool corner of a
basement work great too. As long as the
temperature remains between 35 to 45 F
(2-4 C), and there is very little light, you
will be just fine.
Tip: if you use a refrigerator or root cellar,
just make sure you do NOT store your pots
with apples! Apples produce ethylene gas
which can inhibit flower development, not a
good thing since we are doing everything
here to get our bulbs to flower!
Second Way:
You can use a cold frame or cold
greenhouse in a shady location.
Keep in mind, bulbs in pots are very
vulnerable to cold damage, so if you live in
an area that gets severe winters, pots in a
cold frame or unheated greenhouse may
freeze solid. You will need to take a few
extra steps to protect your pots.
The best way is called "plunging" or burying
your pots. Simply bury your pots in a bed of
good soil mix, or bury them in a straw-lined
trench in the garden covered amply with
more straw for insulation. You can also
insulate with loosely packed leaves.
Basically what you want is the lining and
covering to be thick enough (3 to 4 inches
(7.4 to 10 cm)) to prevent the pots from
freezing in the middle of winter, and also to
give them a dark location to allow them to
form their roots.
If you intend to keep your pots outdoors,
before you cover them with insulating
mulch, you may want to cover the
containers with fine wire mesh to keep any
rodents or mice from eating your bulbs.

Plunging The Pot:

Cover with Mesh:

form their roots.

If you intend to keep your pots outdoors,
before you cover them with insulating
mulch, you may want to cover the
containers with fine wire mesh to keep any
rodents or mice from eating your bulbs.

Bring Indoors To Force

After about 10 weeks, begin checking to
see if any pots are ready to bring indoors.
Early-flowering varieties typically need
fewer hours of cold treatment than lateflowering varieties which can need up to 16
weeks.
So when purchasing, planting and labeling,
read the plant tag and make a note in your
calendar when certain pots will be ready to
bring indoors.
Rule of Thumb: Typically, when pots are
ready, new shoots are visible and you can
see roots at the base of the container.
At this time, bring your pots into a cool
room or greenhouse between 50-55 F
(10-12 C), and keep them out of direct
sunlight initially.
Once the shoots turn green and start to
grow, move them into direct light and
warmer conditions, about 60 F (15.6 C).
You'll still need to water, but just keep the
soil moist, not wet. It will take between 3 or
4 weeks for the flowers to appear.
Rotate your pots regularly so that all the
leaves get equal light and you don't get a
lopsided plant.
When the flower buds start to form and
color, you can move your plants out of
direct light and into bright indirect light. This
will help prolong the bloom period.
At this point, you can even take some of
your pots to the office for your desk so you

lopsided plant.
When the flower buds start to form and
color, you can move your plants out of
direct light and into bright indirect light. This
will help prolong the bloom period.
At this point, you can even take some of
your pots to the office for your desk so you
can enjoy them at work too.
Professional Tip: If you're aiming to a
specific date for your plants to be in flower
and they are growing too fast, you can
delay flowering by moving the plants into a
cool room (40 to 50 F or 4.4 to 10 C) out
of direct sunlight (but not total dark). Bring
them gradually back into sunlight and
warmth when you want them to start
growing again.
Professional Tip: Flowers will last longer
if the containers are moved into a cool
room at night.

After Flowering
After a bulb has been forced, you'll want to
keep them, so don't throw them out.
It's true, you really can't force bulbs twice,
but that doesn't mean they will never flower
again. On the contrary, bulbs will naturalize
in your garden, and they will flower again
for many years to come.
The only difference is that they will flower
on their own schedule, not yours, and they
may take a year or 2 to regain their energy,
but they will eventually flower for you again.
Tip: Obviously if you live in a climate that is
no where near what the bulbs will need to
naturalize, like a tropical environment for
tulips, then they will not naturalize. Be
realistic about your expectations.
Move Bulbs To Your Garden

Tip: Obviously if you live in a climate that is

no where near what the bulbs will need to
naturalize, like a tropical environment for
tulips, then they will not naturalize. Be
realistic about your expectations.
Move Bulbs To Your Garden
After the bulbs have flowered in their pots,
allow the flowers to turn brown, and then
remove them. Meanwhile, keep the soil
moist and allow the leaves to turn brown
and die back.
The plant is still alive, and you need to
allow the energy from the leaves to drain
back into the bulb so it has energy to flower
next year.
Once all the foliage has completely died
back, cut it all off. Carefully dig up the bulbs
out of their pots. Now you can plant them
out into the garden. Just keep in mind
whether the bubs need full sun or shade,
and plant them in the appropriate place.
Conclusion

If you love to garden, and feel deprived during the colder weather,
forcing bulbs indoors is definitely the way to go.
You can experience a whole new group of plants, colors, shapes and
sizes that are not normally available at any other time of the year.
While tulips and hyacinths are nice, get bold and grow some fritillaria or
muscari, they are stunning!
Also, don't forget to take some of your containers to the office for your

forcing bulbs indoors is definitely the way to go.

You can experience a whole new group of plants, colors, shapes and
sizes that are not normally available at any other time of the year.
While tulips and hyacinths are nice, get bold and grow some fritillaria or
muscari, they are stunning!
Also, don't forget to take some of your containers to the office for your
desk. Nothing brightens the day like a table full of colorful spring flowers.
Good luck and have fun!
Hilary Rinaldi is a member of the National Garden Writers Association, a
nationally published writer, and a certified organic grower. She regularly
speaks and writes about all gardening related topics, with an emphasis
on making gardening a successful and enjoyable process for anyone
who wants to learn. Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
concentrates of giving detailed gardening tips and gardening advice to
all levels of gardeners.