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BB

A DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT TO BEAD&BUTTON MAGAZINE

DECEMBER 2014 Issue 124

Make beautiful jewelry for the holidays!

Combine crystals,
pearls, and
seed beads
p. 68

BOLD NEW
CLASPS take
center stage p. 38

&

Your complete beading resource

Combine
stitches to
make this gem
of a pendant p. 46

FAVORITE THINGS

Learn to make
3D shapes in
peyote stitch p. 26
Fa
st

& easy pearl- and-leather bra


cel

et
p.

18

Ring in the holidays with


this sparkling bracelet by
Ora Shai, p. 68.

Plus!

YOUR
COMPLETE
BEADING
RESOURCE

Craft show booth setup essentials p. 22


The uncertain future of the Czech glass button p. 36
New beading books and products p. 11

www.BeadAndButton.com

Holiday
beading
4 ways!
Stitch a cute
peppermint pendant, p. 4

RIBER
SUBSCUSIVE
EXCLmber 2014
Dece

PLUS:

Cubic RAW how-to

p. 20

Use two-hole
beads to make
an elegant ring, p. 7

Make a
petite
ornament in
peyote stitch,
p. 12

Connect
components
for a dramatic
necklace, p. 15

WELCOME!

B&B Extra December 2014

Holiday spirit

Please support these


fine sponsors!

veryone celebrates the winter holidays their own way. For some, its all about
the food, whether that be turkey or latkes or sweet potato pie. Social gatherings are top of the list for others, while presents
giving and receiving are

prominent for many families. Whatever your focus this holiday season, make sure you
squeeze in some time for beading with these four projects. Josie Fabres Peppermint
parade necklace (p. 4), is a sweet confection that will bring a smile to your face as

Simply
Click on

each logo below!

you create your own beaded candy components. Akiko Nomuras Silver clematis
ring (p. 7), is fun to stitch and makes a perfect accessory for a holiday party, as
does Abigail Engelkings Bella Gothica necklace (p. 15). Finally, decorate your tree
or a special package with my Diamond array ornament (p. 12). For extra fun, try
making them half the size for adorable holiday earrings!

Then click on the ad to visit


the sponsors website, and shop
for all of your beading needs!

Editor, Bead&Button
editor@beadandbutton.com

Contents
Peppermint parade necklace

Silver clematis ring

Diamond array ornament

12

Bella Gothica necklace

15

2014, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part
or in whole without written permission from the publisher. The designs in B&B Extra are for your personal
enjoyment. They may not be taught or sold without permission.

Editor Julia Gerlach

ADVERTISING

Senior Art Director Lisa A. Bergman

Corporate Advertising Director Ann E. Smith

Advertising Sales Dawn Becker, Lori Schneider


Associate Editors
AdisServices
Nanette
Cassie Donlen, Kristen Scheuing, Connie Whittaker
This logo
for useRepresentatives
on masthead
only.
Hackbarth, Melissa Valuch
Editorial Assistant Lora Groszkiewicz Do not use less than 100% of full size.
Graphic Designer Lisa M. Schroeder
Photographers Bill Zuback, Jim Forbes
Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Publisher Linda Kast

B&B Extra is published bimonthly by Kalmbach


Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle,
P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612

PLUS
Look for links throughout the
pages that will connect you
to more great content and
resources on the Web.

Visit

www.BeadAndButton.com
for access to more
projects from
Bead&Button magazine.

oducts tivity
r
P
w
e
N
ur Crea
o
Y
e
r
i
to Insp

Shop over 120,000 HOT


jewelry-making products:

www.firemountaingems.com

Design Idea DA1R

Necklace
For complete instructions
and materials list Click Here

You Supply the Creativity,


We Supply Everything Else!
One Fire Mountain Way, DEPT C018 Grants Pass, OR 97526 1-800-335-2137

PEYOTE STITCH / HERRINGBONE STITCH

Peppermint
parade
necklace

Combine a sweetly-striped bezel with


peppermint-stick beading, or opt for a
subtler pairing of white and red cords.
designed by Josie Fabre

Peppermint pendant
End and add thread as needed
while you stitch the pendant, which
consists of the bezeled focal and
candy-wrapper ends.
Bezeled rivoli or cabochon
1 On a comfortable length of
thread, pick up the following 110
cylinder beads: three red, four
white, three red, five white. Repeat
this pattern until you have nine
groups of three red beads, and

then pick up five white beads for


a total of 68 beads.

tip

This pattern of beads results


in fairly evenly spaced red stripes
that are all the same width. For a
bezel with alternating thicker and
thinner stripes, as shown in the
necklace at left, pick up an irregular
pattern of cylinders such as three red,
three white, one red, two white, three
red, four white. Adjust as necessary
to fit the stone.


December 2014
4

Difficulty rating

FIGURE 1

a b

FIGURE 2

2 Wrap the beads around the circumference of your rivoli, and add or
remove beads from the last few white
sections until the beads form a snug
(but not too tight) ring around the
rivoli. Make sure you end with an even
number of beads, and then tie them
into a ring with a square knot, leaving
a 10-in. (25 cm) tail. Sew through the
first two red beads.
3 Begin a round of tubular peyote
stitch as follows:
one stitch with a red bead
(figure 1, ab)
two stitches with white beads (bc)
one stitch with a red bead (cd)
three stitches with white beads (de)
one stitch with a red bead (ef)
Continue working in peyote, following
the established color pattern and
adjusting the stitch counts as needed
in areas were you added or removed
beads. Step up through the first red
bead added in this round. Work six
more rounds for a total of nine rounds.

tip

If you choose the pattern of


beads in the previous tip, you will
also need to adjust your stitches to
match your striped pattern.

4 Insert your rivoli into the beadwork


to check that the bezel extends a little
above and below it. Add or remove
rounds as needed, aiming for an odd
number of rounds.
5 Work a round of tubular peyote with

150 seed beads, pulling tight to begin


cupping this edge of the beadwork.
Set this thread aside.
6 Once again insert the rivoli into the
beadwork so that the back of the rivoli
is against the round of 150s. With the
tail, work a round of tubular peyote
with 150s, pulling tight again. If the rivoli
doesnt feel secure enough in the
bezel, work another round of 150s with
one or both threads. End the tail but
not the working thread.
Candy-wrapper ends
1 Sew through the beadwork to exit a
cylinder just to one side of the center
round of peyote (figure 2, point a).
Begin the base round of the candy
wrapper as follows:
Pick up two white cylinders, turn, and
sew through the adjacent cylinder
(ab).
Pick up two white cylinders, and sew
through the next cylinder in the same
round. Repeat this stitch once (bc).
Pick up two white cylinders, turn,
and sew through the adjacent
cylinder (cd).
Pick up two white cylinders, and sew
through the next cylinder in the same
round. Repeat this stitch once. Step up
through the first white cylinder added
in this round (de).
2 Work a round of tubular herringbone
stitch, picking up a 150 after each
stitch (figure 3). Work another round
with two 150s after each herringbone
stitch, and then work rounds with three,

Materials
peppermint pendant 2 in. (5 cm)

1 27 mm rivoli (Swarovski #1201, crystal with


foil back; www.fusionbeads.com) or 2530 mm
round flat marbles (clear)
1 4 x 6 mm crystal rondelle
(Swarovski, crystal)
110 Miyuki Delica cylinder beads
- 34 g white (DB0351, matte white)
- 12 g red (DB0753, matte opaque red)
23 g 150 seed beads
(Miyuki 1, silver-lined crystal)
3 in. (7.6 cm) 24-gauge wire (silver)
Fireline 6 lb. test
beading needles, #12
2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or
bent-nose pliers
roundnose pliers
wire cutters
peppermint stick neck chains
28 in. (71 cm)

12 4 x 6 mm crystal rondelles
(Swarovski, crystal)
4 mm bicone crystals
- 8 color A (Swarovski, Siam)
- 8 color B (Swarovski, crystal)
110 Miyuki Delica cylinder beads
- 1 g white (DB0351, matte white)
- 1 g red (DB0753, matte opaque red)
lobster claw clasp (silver)
65 in. (1.7 m) 24-gauge wire (silver)
13 in. (33 cm) small-link chain (silver)
5 56 mm jump rings (silver)
two-color neck cord 28 in. (71 cm)

27 in. (69 cm) 1 mm leather, plastic, or satin


cord in each of 2 colors: red and white
2 3 mm bicone crystals
(Swarovski, chalk white)
lobster claw clasp (silver)
5 in. (13 cm) 24-gauge wire (silver)
2 56 mm jump rings (silver)
2 cord ends (silver)

Josie Fabre has been beading for


more than 10 years. She became
hooked on peyote stitch and
designing patterns after she made
several squares for the 2012 Bead-It-Forward
project (www.bead-it-forward.com). She is inspired
by nature, art, and architecture. Contact her at
josie@fabres.net, or visit www.josie.etsy.com.


December 2014
5

110 cylinder bead, white


110 cylinder bead, red
150 seed bead
FIGURE 3
PEPPERMINT STICK PATTERN

four, five, and six 150s after stitches.


3 Work one last round, but for each
herringbone stitch, pick up one 150
instead of two white cylinders, and
pick up seven 150s after the herringbone stitches.
4 Sew through the beadwork to the
opposite side of the bezel. Work as in
step 1 to begin the base of the other
candy-wrapper end.
5 Cut a 3-in. (7.6 cm) piece of wire,
and make the first half of a wrapped
loop. Slide the loop through a cylinder
in the bezel that corresponds to the
center of the candy wrapper. Complete
the wraps. String two white cylinders,
a 4 x 6 mm rondelle, and a white
cylinder, and make a wrapped loop.
6 Work as in steps 2 and 3 around the
rondelle link, and then sew through
the beadwork to exit a white cylinder
in the last round of herringbone just
to one side of the rondelle link. Sew
through the corresponding cylinder
on the other side of the round, and
sew through the first cylinder again to
join them. Sew through the beadwork
to exit a white cylinder on the other
side of the rondelle link, and work
another join to stabilize the link inside
the candy wrapper (photo, above
right). End the working thread.
7 Choose to finish the pendant with
a peppermint-stick neck chain or
two-color neck cord by following the
appropriate steps below.

Peppermint-stick neck chains

1 On 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread, attach a


stop bead, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail.
Reading the pattern (above, center)
from the bottom left-hand corner, pick
up the following cylinders for rows 1
and 2: one white, two red, six white, and
three red.

2 Work in flat even-count peyote stitch


to complete the pattern, and zip up
the first and last rows. Retrace the
thread path, and end the working
thread. Remove the stop bead, and
end the tail.
3 Make four peppermint tubes.
4 Each neck chain consists of links
attached by wrapped loops. As you
make a link, always attach it to the
previous link before completing the
last wrapped loop. Review how to
make the following three links, and
then make and attach them in the
order given in step 5:
Rondelle link: Cut 2 in. (6.4 cm) of
wire, and make a wrapped loop. String
a rondelle, and make a wrapped loop.
Bicone link: Cut 2 in. (6.4 cm) of
wire, and make a wrapped loop. String
a color A 4 mm bicone crystal, and
make a wrapped loop.
Peppermint link: Cut 3 in. (7.6 cm) of
wire, and make a wrapped loop. String
a color B 4 mm bicone crystal, a peyote
tube, and a B. Make a wrapped loop.
5 Assemble each neck chain with the
following links and components:
rondelle, bicone, rondelle, peppermint
rondelle, bicone, rondelle, peppermint
rondelle, bicone, rondelle, 6-in.
(16.5 cm) chain, bicone
6 Attach a 56 mm jump ring to the top
wrapped loop on the pendant, and use
two more jump rings to attach the neck
chains to the pendant.
7 Attach a 56 mm jump ring to the
bicone unit at the end of one of the
neck chains. Use another jump ring to
attach a lobster claw clasp to the end
of the other neck chain.

Two-color neck cord

1 Cut 27 in. (69 cm) each of red and


white cord. Place one end of each cord

To brush up on the
basic techniques referenced
in this project, go to
www.BeadAndButton.com/basics.
Ending and adding thread
Square knot
Peyote stitch: Tubular, flat
even-count, zipping up
Herringbone stitch: Tubular
Wrapped loop
Opening and closing
jump rings
Attaching a stop bead

in a cord end, and use chainnose


pliers to squeeze the flap closed.
2 Attach a 56 mm jump ring to the
top wrapped loop of the pendant.
Loosely twist the two cords together,
and string the pendant. Attach a cord
end as before.
3 Cut a 2-in. (6.4 cm) piece of wire,
and make the first half of a wrapped
loop. Attach the loop to a cord end,
and complete the wraps. String a 3 mm
bicone crystal, and make the first half
of a wrapped loop. Attach the loop to
a 56 mm jump ring, and complete
the wraps.
4 Repeat step 3 for the other end of
the necklace, but attach a lobster claw
clasp instead of a jump ring. w


December 2014
6

MODIFIED RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE /


CROSSWEAVE TECHNIQUE

Silver
clematis
ring

Inspired by the silver moon


clematis flower, this ring boasts
layered petals of two-hole lentils,
triangles, and Twin beads.
designed by Akiko Nomura

Flower petals
The beads are shown facing up in
the figures to help show which holes
to sew through. In the actual beadwork, the beads will be in profile.
1 On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread, attach
a stop bead, leaving a 2-ft. (61 cm)
tail. For clarity, the stop bead is only
shown in figure 1.
2 Work a stitch as follows:
Pick up a two-hole lentil bead, a
two-hole triangle bead, a lentil, a color
A 150 seed bead, an 110 seed bead,
and an A 150. Sew through the open

6 mm two-hole
lentil bead

6 mm two-hole
triangle bead
2.5 x 5 mm Twin bead
110 seed bead

150 seed bead, color A


150 seed bead, color B

FIGURE 1


December 2014
7

lentil, and triangle (cd).


5 Repeat steps 3 and 4
until you have a total of
six triangles, ending with
step 3.
6 To form a ring:
Work another stitch as
in step 4, but instead of
adding a new triangle,
sew through the open
hole of the triangle in the
first stitch (figure 4, ab).
Work as in step 3 to add
the last two Twins (bc).
Sew through the beadwork to exit the 150, 110,
and 150 next to the tail
(cd). Remove the stop
bead, and tie a square
knot with the working
thread and tail.

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

b
a

c
d

FIGURE 4

a
hole of the second lentil
just added (figure 1, ab).
Pick up a triangle, and
sew through the open hole
of the first lentil added (bc).
Pick up an A 150, an 110,
and an A 150, and sew
through the other hole of
the first lentil. Continue
through the first triangle
(cd).

note

Make sure
both triangles are pointing
the same way with their
open holes to the outside
of the stitch.

3 Work a stitch as follows:


Pick up a Twin bead, and
sew through the open hole
of the triangle your thread
exited at the start of this
step (figure 2, ab).

Flower bottom

b
Pick up a Twin, and sew
through the other hole
of the triangle. Continue
through the first Twin and
the other hole of the
triangle (bc).
4 Work a stitch as follows,
again making sure the
triangles are facing the
same way:
Pick up a lentil, an A 150,
an 110, and an A 150, and
sew through the open hole
of the lentil just added
(figure 3, ab).
Pick up a triangle, a lentil,
an A 150, an 110, and an
A 150, and sew through the
open hole of the lentil just
added (bc).
Sew through the adjacent
triangle from the previous
stitch, and continue through
the first lentil, 150, 110, 150,

1 With the working thread,


sew through the beadwork,
and exit another 150, 110,
and 150 on top of a lentil.
2 Pick up three A 150s,
an 80 seed bead, and
three A 150s, and sew
through the 150, 110, and
150 your thread exited at
the start of this stitch
(photo a). Continue
through the first three A 150s
and 80 added in this step,
and sew through the open
hole of the next Twin
(photo b).

note

Difficulty rating

Materials
blue/white/bronze ring

1 10 mm glass pearl
(Preciosa, white)
12 6 mm CzechMates
two-hole lentil beads (silver;
www.redpandabeads.com)
6 6 mm CzechMates two-hole
triangle beads (matte iris brown;
www.redpandabeads.com)
4 4 mm glass pearls
(Preciosa, white)
12 2.5 x 5 mm Twin beads
(jet; www.beadaholique.com)
7 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads
(luster gold;
www.redpandabeads.com)
6 80 seed beads
(Preciosa, silky gold;
www.shipwreckbeads.com)
1 g 110 seed beads
(Toho 221, bronze)
1 g 150 seed beads in each of
2 colors: A (Toho 321,
transpar ent blue AB),
B (Toho 221, bronze)
Fireline 6 lb. test
beading needles, #12 or #13
(see materials for the
other ring on p. 9)

The thread
between the 80 and Twin
will want to show. Make
sure to pull it to the center
of the flower, behind the
A 150s, and pull tight so
that the 80 touches the Twin.

3 Pick up an 80 and three


A 150s, and sew through
the 150, 110, and 150 on
top of the next lentil with
your needle pointing
toward the previous stitch
(photo c). Pick up three
A 150s, sew through the
80 added in this step,
and continue through


December 2014
8

e
green/pink/blue ring
colors

the open hole of the next


Twin (photo d).
4 Repeat step 3 four times
to complete the round, and
sew through the first 80.
5 Pick up an 110, an A 150,
and an 110. Sew through
the 80 your thread exited
at the start of this step, and
continue through the next
Twin and 80 (photo e).
6 Repeat step 5 four times
to complete the round, and
then retrace the thread
path through all the center
A 150s (photo f). End the
working thread but not
the tail. This side of the
flower will be the bottom.

Flower top

1 With the tail, sew through


the beadwork to exit a lentil,
150, 110, and 150 on the
other side of the flower,
which will be the top.
2 Thread a needle on each
end of 2 ft. (61 cm) of
thread. Repeat for a second

thread. Center a 10 mm
pearl on both threads, and
place the pearl into the
flower petal ring so that
each opening of the pearl
is between four Twins two
toward the top of the flower,
and two toward the bottom.
3 With the two threads
exiting one end of the
pearl, sew through the top
holes of the bottom Twins
(photo g).

note

The right
thread should go through
its Twin from left to right,
and the left thread should
go through its Twin from
right to left.
These threads will be used
to work the ring band.
Secure each thread with a
stop bead attached close
to the flower. For safety,
remove the needles from
these threads.
4 Repeat step 3 with the

threads exiting the other


side of the pearls hole.
5 With the tail from step 1,
pick up an A 150, an 110,
and an A 150, and sew
through the 150, 110, and
150 your thread is exiting
(photo h). Position the new
beads toward the center of
the ring. Continue through
the first A 150 and 110, pick
up an 110, and sew through
the open hole of the next
Twin. This new 110 should
push the adjacent 150
down toward the center of
the lentil (photo i).
6 Pick up two 110s and an
A 150, and sew through
the 150, 110, and 150 on top
of the next lentil with your
needle pointing toward the
previous stitch (photo j).
Pick up an A 150, skip the
next 110, and sew through
the following 110 (photo k).
Pick up an 110, and sew
through the open hole
of the next Twin (photo l).

10 mm round bead (silver)


6 mm CzechMates two-hole
lentil beads (honeydew luster
Picasso; www.beadaholique.com)
6 mm CzechMates two-hole
triangle beads (halo madder
rose; www.artbeads.com)
4 mm crystal pearls
(Swarovski, powder almond)
2.5 x 5 mm Twin beads
(matte purple terra;
www.agrainofsand.com)
2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads
(chocolate bronze;
www.artbeads.com)
80 seed beads (Miyuki 2006,
matte metallic dark bronze)
110 seed beads (Miyuki 454,
metallic dark plum iris)
130 Charlottes, in place of 150
seed beads, in 2 colors:
A (Preciosa, pearl eggshell;
www.shipwreckbeads.com),
B (Preciosa, transparent
amethyst AB; www.shipwreck
beads.com)

Online Beading
Basics
www.BeadAndButton.
com/basics

stop bead
square knot
ending thread


December 2014
9

7 Repeat step 6 four times.


To complete the round, pick
up an 110, sew through the
first 110 added in this round,
and sew through the beadwork to exit the next Twin.
8 Pick up an A 150, an 110,
and an A 150, and sew
through the outer hole of
the next Twin (photo m).
9 Repeat step 8 five times
to complete the round.
10 Sew through the beadwork to exit a center 110
added in the last round.
Pick up an A 150, a color
B 150 seed bead, and an
A 150, and sew through the
next center 110 (photo n).
Repeat five times to complete the round.
11 Each top lentil has three
consecutive 110s that form
a line. Sew through the
beadwork to exit the center
110 on top of the nearest
lentil (photo o). Pick up

three B 150s, and sew


through the 110 in the
same direction to form a
picot (photo p). Repeat
five times to add a picot to
each corresponding 110
around the flower top, and
end the thread.

Ring band

1 Remove the stop beads


on the two threads going
through the pearl on one
side of the flower. Thread
a needle on each one.
2 With each needle, pick
up two 110s and a 4 mm
pearl. With one needle,
pick up a SuperDuo bead,
and cross the other needle
through it (photo q).
3 With each needle, pick
up two A 150s. Cross the
needles through the open
hole of the same SuperDuo
(photo r).
4 With each needle, pick

up a B 150, an 110, and a


B 150. With one needle, pick
up a SuperDuo bead, and
cross the other needle
through it (photo s).
5 Alternate steps 3 and 4
until the ring band is long
enough the wrap around
your finger. End with step 3.

note

You can adjust


the length of the ring band
by adding or omitting 110s
and/or pearls on each
side of the band.

6 With each needle, pick


up a 4 mm pearl and
two 110s, and sew through
the Twins the two threads
are exiting on the other
side of the flower. End
these threads.
7 Remove the stop beads
securing the other two
threads. Thread a needle
on each one.

8 Retrace the thread path


of the ring band, and end
these threads. w
Akiko Nomura was
born and raised in
Yokohama, Japan.
Formerly an interior
designer, her interest in bead
design began about 15 years
ago when she discovered a
beading book by Janet Cole.
She says,When I design the
interior of houses, the most
important decision is the basic
color and style and then adding
accents and focal points within
the proportions of the overall
interior. I approach bead craft
with the same philosophy.
Contact her at akikonom@aol.com,
or visit www.bead-it.co.jp to see
more of her work.


December 2014 10

PRECIOSA Charlotte
design bY Kerrie sLAde

PRECIOSA Charlottes - cut rocailles

ART No.: 361 11 001, SIZE: 13/0

Click here for instructions to make the bracelet


The Traditional Czech Beads brand is a guarantee of the finest quality Czech product
available only from Preciosa Ornela

distributors of traditional czech beadstM


Har-Man Importing Co. | 1-800-232-3769 | www.harmanbeads.com
Shipwreck Beads | 800-950-4232 | www.shipwreckbeads.com
John Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.com
John F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.com
Fire Mountain Gems and Beads | 800-355-2137 | www.firemountaingems.com
York Novelty Import, Inc. | 800-223-6676 | www.yorkbeads.com
Frabels Inc. | 514-842-8561 | www.frabels.com
Beadsmith / Helby Import | 732-969-5300 | www.beadsmith.com

to disCoVer More About


traditional czech beadstM
Visit

traditional-czech-beads.com

Agents for usA And CAnAdA

MAnufACturer

Bead & Trim, Inc. | 212-725-9845 | traditional-czech-beads.com


Jablonex Canada Inc. | 416-675-1326 | jablonex.canada@gmail.com

PRECIOSA ORNELA
Czech Republic

PEYOTE STITCH

Diamond
array
ornament
Use peyote stitch to make a
petite ornament reminiscent
of a classic origami design.
By Julia Gerlach


December 2014 12

Difficulty rating

Ornament body

1 On a comfortable length

of thread and leaving an


8-in. (20 cm) tail, pick up
37 110 cylinder beads in
the following colors: one C,
18 As, 17 Bs, and one C.
2 Working in odd-count flat
peyote stitch, work a total of
12 rows, following the existing
color pattern (photo a).
3 Zip up the edges to form
a tube (photo b). Sew
through an adjacent edge
bead so your needle is
pointing toward the other
end of the tube.
4 Working on the outer
surface of the tube, work
a row of stitch in the ditch
with one C, eight As, eight Bs,
and one C. Sew under an
adjacent thread bridge
and back through the last
two Cs your thread exited
(figure, ab). The row you
just worked is the base row
of a triangular spine.
5 Work across the spine in
peyote with one C, seven
Bs, eight As, and one C.
Sew under the thread
bridge between the two
nearest Cs, and sew back

through the last two Cs your


thread exited (bc).
6 Work across the spine with
one C, seven As, seven Bs,
and one C. Sew under the
nearest thread bridge as in
step 5, and sew back through
the last two Cs your thread
exited (cd).
7 Repeat steps 5 and 6
seven times, following the
existing color pattern and
decreasing the number of
beads in each row by one.
Work the final point bead
with a single C (de).
8 Sew through the edge
Cs, exiting the end C in the
tube. Turn, and sew through
the adjacent end C.
9 Repeat steps 48 five
times to create a total of
six triangular spines. End
and add thread as needed.

Embellishment
and finishing

1 Sew through a triangular


spine to exit a row 4 A at
the AB color break. Pick
up a 4 mm pearl, and sew
through the corresponding
row 4 A in the adjacent spine
(photo c). Sew back through

the ditch
b

Work stitch in the


ditch by adding rows
of peyote on top of an
existing layer of peyote.
The new beads will
nestle in the ditches
between adjacent rows.

Materials
purple/bronze ornament
2 in. (6.4 cm)

6 4 mm pearls (matte gold)


2 4 mm round or bicone
crystals (light Colorado topaz AB)
12 9 mm bugle beads
(Toho 221, bronze)
110 Miyuki Delica cylinder
beads
- 3 g color A (DB0906,
purple-lined crystal)
- 3 g color B (DB0907,
lined light bronze)
- 2 g color C (DB0433,
galvanized Champagne)
24 150 seed beads
(Miyuki 457, bronze)
Fireline 6 lb. test or beading
thread, size D
beading needles, #11
red/cream ornament
colors:

4 mm pearls (matte gold)


4 mm round or bicone
crystals (crystal)
9 mm bugle beads
(Toho 221, bronze)
110 Miyuki Delica cylinder
beads
- color A (DB1564, opaque
Cadillac red luster)
- color B (DB0205, Ceylon
light caramel)
- color C (DB0031, 24K
gold plated)
150 seed beads
(Miyuki 457, bronze)

Online Beading
Basics
www/BeadAndButton.
com/basics

peyote stitch: flat odd-count,


zipping up, stitch in the ditch
ending and adding thread

FIGURE 1

Julia Gerlach is the editor of


Bead&Button. Contact her at
jgerlach@beadandbutton.com.


December 2014 13

the pearl (photo d), and


continue through the A your
thread exited on the first
spine, exiting the other side of
the spine. Repeat this stitch to
add a pearl between each
pair of spines. Sew through
the first pearl.
2 Pick up a 9 mm bugle
bead and a 150 seed bead,
and sew through the point
C on the spine (photo e).
Pick up a 150 and a bugle,
and sew through the next

pearl (photo f). Repeat


these two stitches around
the ornament.
3 After sewing through the
first pearl again, continue
through the first bugle. Pick
up a 150, and sew through
the point C on the spine,
sewing through it in the
opposite direction as before
so you have two 150s
centered next to the point C
(photo g). Pick up a 150,
and sew through the next

bugle and pearl. Repeat


these two stitches around
the ornament. If you have
difficulties getting the needle
through a pearl and the
following bugle without
breaking or bending your
needle, try this: Exit the pearl,
sew back and forth through
the spine, catching a thread
bridge, and then continue
through the bugle. When
the round is complete, end
the working thread.

4 With the tail, sew through


the beadwork to exit the
end of the tube. Pick up
a 4 mm crystal and a 150,
and sew back through the
crystal and the tube. At the
other end of the tube, pick
up a crystal and eight 150s.
Sew through the first 150 again
to form a ring (photo h), and
then continue through the
ring, skipping the third, fifth,
and seventh 150s so they
pop out. End the tail. w

Shrink it down
Adapt this pattern to make a cute pair of earrings!
1 Begin by picking up eight As and nine Bs, and work a row of odd-count
peyote, following the color pattern. Anchor the last A added by sewing through
the first A and last A again.
2 Work another row of peyote, sewing through the same beads you sewed through
when stitching the previous row. Youll have three rows coming out of one row.
3 Work a row off of one of the three rows, making it one bead shorter than the
previous row. Going back in the other direction, repeat to work an adjacent row
off of the same row.
4 Repeat step 3 twice so you have the start of six spines.
5 Complete each spine as in the ornament, following the color pattern.
6 Complete the earring as you did the ornament, but substitute a cylinder bead
for each pearl and 3 mm bugles for the 9 mm bugles.

December 2014 14

CUBIC RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE /


NETTING / PEYOTE STITCH

Bella
Gothica
necklace

Stitch up a
series of custom
components
and bring them
together with
feminine swags
of chain.
designed by
Abigail Engelking


December 2014 15

Difficulty rating

Materials
necklace 151 2 in. (39.4 cm)
a

This project requires familiarity


with cubic right-angle weave
(CRAW). Find tips on working
in this technique in Cubic
RAW how-to on p. 2021.

Focal diamond

1 On a comfortable length
of 4 lb. Fireline, pick up four
3 mm fire-polished beads.
Tie the beads into a ring
with a square knot, leaving
a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew
through all the beads again.
2 Using 3 mms, work five
CRAW units (photo a, red
beads). Retrace the thread
path of every stitch of every
unit, and tie a half-hitch knot
at the top of each unit after
you complete it. End the tail
but not the working thread.
3 Work four CRAW units perpendicular to the five you
just completed (photo a,
light blue beads). Work four
more units perpendicular
to these four (photo a,
orange beads). End and
add thread as needed.
4 Work two more CRAW units
perpendicular to the last four,
and then work a joining unit
to complete the diamond
(photo a, dark blue beads).

5 Sew through the beadwork


to exit a 3 mm in a corner
stitch (as in photo a). Pick
up a 3.4 mm drop bead,
cross the stitch diagonally,
and sew through the opposite 3 mm to center the
drop in the stitch (photo b).
6 Working as in step 5, add
a 2.8 mm drop bead to
each of the next three
stitches and a 3.4 mm drop
to the following corner stitch
(photo c). Embellish the
entire front surface of the
diamond in this manner.
7 Sew through the beadwork
to exit a corner 3 mm along
the outside edge of the diamond. Pick up an 110 seed
bead, and sew through the
next edge 3 mm (photo d).
Repeat this stitch to add an
110 between all the 3 mms
along the outside edge of
the diamond (photo e).
8 Sew to the back of the
diamond, and work as in
step 7 to add a 3.4 mm drop
at each corner and an 110
between all the 3 mms along
the outside edge (photo f).
9 Still working on the back
of the diamond, add an 110
between all the 3 mms along

the inside edge of the diamond, including the corner


3 mms. Exit an 110 just added.
10 Pick up three 110 cylinder
beads, and sew through the
next 110. Repeat this stitch
around the inside edge of
the diamond, and step up
through the first two cylinders
added in this step (photo g).
11 Work this step with a tight
tension: Pick up an 110, and
sew through the center cylinder of the next set of three
(photo h). Repeat this stitch

2 12 mm chessboard crystals
(Swarovski #2493, jet;
www.firemountaingems.com)
2 4 x 7 mm rondelle or saucer
beads (such as 3.5 x 8 mm
antique copper-plated Oasis
rondelles by TierraCast;
www.fusionbeads.com)
3 x 4 mm crystal rondelles
9 color A (Chinese, blood red)
10 color B (Chinese, black)
21 3 mm crystal pearls
(Swarovski, mystic black)
200 3 mm fire-polished beads
(Preciosa, Picasso dark brown on
black; www.shipwreckbeads.com)
43 3.4 mm drop beads
(Miyuki DP-140FR, matte
transparent red AB)
12 2.8 mm drop beads
(Miyuki DP28-2006, matte
metallic dark bronze)
2 g 110 cylinder beads
(Miyuki DB0310, matte black)
2 g 110 seed beads
(heavy metal copper matte;
www.beyondbeadery.com)
1 g 150 seed beads
(Miyuki 458, metallic brown iris)
51 in. (1.3 m) curb chain,
4 mm links (antique copper)
10 56 mm jump rings
(20-gauge, antique copper)
6 4 mm jump rings (16- or
18-gauge, antique copper)
5 1-in. (2.5 cm) head pins
(antique copper)
3 2-in. (5 cm) eye pins
(antique copper)
Fireline, 4 and 10 lb. test (or 6 lb.
test see note on p. 20)
beading needles, #12 and #13
2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose,
and/or bentnose pliers
roundnose pliers
wire cutters


December 2014 16

until you reach a corner.


Without adding a bead,
sew through the center
cylinder of the next set of
three (photo i). Continue
adding 110s and skipping
the corners in this manner
(photo j). Retrace the
thread path.
12 Sew through the beadwork to the front of the
diamond, and exit a

To brush up on the
basic techniques referenced in this
project, go to www.
BeadAndButton.com/
basics.
right-angle weave
peyote stitch: flat
even-count, tubular,
zipping up
square knot
half-hitch knot
ending and adding
thread
stop bead
plain loop
wrapped loop
opening and closing
loops and jump rings

corner 3 mm along the


inside edge.
13 Place the 12 mm
checkerboard crystals back
to back, and insert them
into the diamond.
14 Work this step with a
tight tension: Add 3.4 mm
drops between the 3 mms
along the inside edge of
the diamond, but sew through
the corner 3 mms without
adding any beads. Select
drops with a wider tip to fill
the space between the 3
mms. End the working thread.

Square tubes

1 On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of 10 lb.


Fireline and leaving a 6-in.
(15 cm) tail, work four CRAW
units with 3 mms.
2 Position the tube horizontally, and exit an end 3 mm
(the hole should be vertical).
Pick up a 3 mm pearl, and
working along the long
side of the tube, sew through
the next 3 mm in the row
(photo k).
3 Working as in step 2, add a
total of four pearls to this side
of the tube, four 3.4 mm drops
to the next side (photo l), four
pearls to the following side,

and four 3.4 mm drops to the


final side.
4 Sew through the next perpendicular 4 mm (the bead
hole should be horizontal).
Pick up an 110, and sew
through the next 3 mm along
the edge. Repeat this stitch
to add a total of five 110s to
this edge (photo m).
Repeat for the other edges.
End the working thread
and tail.
5 Make and embellish
a second square tube.
6 On an eye pin, string a
color A 3 x 4 mm rondelle,
a square tube, and an A
rondelle, and make a plain
loop. Repeat for the other
square tube.

Netted bell

1 On 1 yd. (.9 m) of 10 lb.


Fireline, pick up five 110s.
Tie the beads into a ring
with a square knot, and
sew through the first 110.
2 Pick up three 110s. Skip
the last 110, and sew back
through the second 110.
Pick up an 110, and sew
through the next 110 in the
ring (photo n). Pull tight to
form the first point of a star.

Repeat these stitches four


more times to make a fivepoint star. Step up through
the 110 at the tip of a point.
3 Pick up a 150 seed bead,
a pearl, and a 150, and sew
through the 110 at the tip of
the next point (photo o).
Repeat this stitch to complete
the round. Retrace the thread
path of the round, pulling
tight to begin forming the bell
shape. Exit the 110 at the tip
of a point.
4 Pick up five 110s, and sew
through the 110 at the tip
of the next point (photo p).
This forms a loop around the
pearl. Repeat this stitch to
complete the round, and exit
the center 110 in the first loop.
5 Pick up a 150, an A rondelle,
and a 150, and sew through
the center 110 in the next
loop (photo q). Repeat this


December 2014 17

stitch to complete the round,


and exit the center 110 in the
first loop.
6 Pick up five 110s, and sew
through the center 110 in the
next loop (photo r). This forms
a loop around the rondelle.
Repeat this stitch to complete
the round, and exit the center
110 in the first loop.
7 Pick up a 150, a color B
3 x 4 mm rondelle, and a 150,
and sew through the center
110 in the next loop (photo s).
Repeat this stitch to complete
the round, and exit the center
110 in the first loop.
8 Pick up three 110s and a
3.4 mm drop. Sew back
through the third 110, pick
up two 110s, and sew through
the center 110 in the next
loop (photo t). Repeat these
stitches to complete the
round, and end the working
thread and tail.

note

Depending
on the size and shape of
your rondelles (and how
much you want them to
show through the netting)
you can pick up fewer
110s in this step. In the
designers necklace, only
two 110s, a 3.4 mm drop,
and an 110 were used.

Toggle ring

9 On a head pin, string a B


rondelle, an 110, and a cylinder, and make a plain loop.
Repeat to make four more
dangles.
10 Cut a 1-in. (3.8 cm),
two 1-in. (2.5 cm), and two
-in. (1.3 cm) pieces of
chain. Open the loop of
a dangle, and attach it to
the end link of a chain.
Repeat for the remaining
dangles and chains.
11 Open the loop of an eye
pin, and attach the chains
in the following order:
in. (1.3 cm)
1 in. (2.5 cm)
1 in. (3.8 cm)
1 in. (2.5 cm)
in. (1.3 cm)
12 On the eye pin, string a
4 x 7 mm rondelle or saucer
bead, the netted bell (wide
end to narrow), a 4 x 7 mm
rondelle, and an 110. Make
a wrapped loop.

This square-shaped toggle


ring consists of two surfaces
of beadwork, both sharing an
inner ring of beads. You
will work a series of joins
to merge the two surfaces
along their outer edges.
1 On 5 ft. (1.5 m) of 4 lb.
Fireline, pick up 40 150s.
Center the beads on the
thread, and tie them in a
ring with a square knot.
These beads will shift to form
the first two rounds of tubular
peyote as the third round is
added. Working with one
end of the thread, sew
through the first bead.
2 Work rounds of tubular
peyote stitch as follows:
Round 3: Work a round using
150s, and step up.
Round 4: Work a round using
cylinders, and step up.
Round 5:
Work four stitches with one
cylinder each (figure 1, ab).
Work a stitch with two cylinders to begin a corner (bc).

b
c

Repeat these stitches to


complete the round, and
step up (cd).
Round 6:
Work four stitches with one
cylinder each, exiting the first
bead in the next corner
(figure 2, ab).
Pick up two cylinders, and
sew through the second
bead in the corner (bc).
Work five stitches with one
cylinder each and a corner
stitch with two cylinders
(cd). Repeat this pattern
twice more (de).
Work a stitch with one
cylinder, and step up (ef).
End this thread.
3 With the other thread,
work as in round 4 to begin
the second surface of the
toggle ring.
4 Work another round with
cylinders, but add two cylinders in each corner. Work one
more round in this manner.
5 Work a final round with
cylinders, but dont add any
beads at the corners

110 cylinder bead

150 seed bead

FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2


December 2014 18

simply sew through the corner beads.


When you complete the round, exit
between the top two beads in a corner.
6 To work a corner join: Sew down
through the corresponding corner
bead on the first surface of the toggle
ring. Sew up through the adjacent
corner bead on the first surface,
and then sew down through the
corresponding two corner beads
on the second surface.
7 To work an edge join: Sew through
the next up-bead on the second

surface, and zip up the up-beads


along both surfaces.
8 Repeat steps 6 and 7 to join all the
corners and edges of the toggle ring.
9 You will now have four connected
cylinders at each corner. Sew through
the beadwork to exit a corner bead.
Pick up a 3.4 mm drop, and sew down
through the opposite bead in this corner.
Sew up through the adjacent corner
bead, sew back through the drop, and
sew down through the opposite corner
bead. This forms a crisscross of thread
through the drop, centering it on the
corner (as in photo u).
10 Sew through the next few cylinders,
and work three peyote stitches with
110s centered on this side of the
toggle ring (photo u).
11 Repeat steps 9 and 10 to
embellish each corner and
each side of the toggle
ring (as in photo u).
End the working thread.

214-in.
chain
4 mm jump ring

Toggle bar

1 On 4 ft. (1.2 m) of 4 lb.


56 mm
jump ring

3-in.
chain

4-in.
chain
514-in.
chain

Fireline, attach a stop


bead, leaving a 10-in.
(25 cm) tail. Pick up 16
cylinder beads. Working
in flat even-count peyote
stitch, make a strip with a
total of 10 rows. Zip up the
first and last rows, and retrace
the thread path.
2 With the working thread,
exit an end cylinder in the

tube with your needle pointing


away from the tube. Pick up an 110,
a 3.4 mm drop, and an 110, and sew
through an opposite cylinder (as in
photo v). Sew through the beadwork
to retrace the thread path of this
embellishment.
3 Remove the stop bead from the tail,
and repeat step 2 at the other end of
the tube.
4 With either thread, sew through the
beadwork to exit a cylinder near the
center of the tube. Pick up five 150s,
and sew through the same cylinder
to form a loop. Retrace the thread
path of the loop, and end the
working thread and tail (photo v).

Assembly

1 Cut chain to the following lengths


and quantities:
6 chains = 2 in. (6.4 cm) each
2 chains = 2 in. (7 cm) each
2 chains = 3 in. (7.6 cm) each
2 chains = 4 in. (10 cm) each
2 chains = 5 in. (13.3 cm) each
2 The netted bell and chains will be
connected to the diamond focal with
56 mm 20-gauge (thin) jump rings.
These jump rings will slide around the
3 mms on the sides of the diamond
(photo w). The 4 mm 16- or 18-gauge
(thick) jump rings will connect the
chains to other components.
3 Following photo x (left), attach the
netted bell, the indicated chains, and
the square tubes to the focal component with the appropriate jump rings.


December 2014 19

4 Following photo y, attach a 56 mm


jump ring to the toggle ring. Using two
4 mm jump rings, attach the toggle
ring to a square tube with three 2-in.
(6.4 cm) chains.
5 Following photo z, use two 4 mm
jump rings to attach the toggle bar
to the other square tube with three
2-in. (6.4 cm) chains. w
Abigail Engelking has
been making jewelry for
16 years. Contact her at
abigail33@telus.net, or visit
www.abigailsbeaddesign.etsy.com,
www.craftsy.com/user/2141178/pattern-store,
and www.facebook.com/abigail.engelking to
see more of her work.

editors note:

In components where the thread path is reinforced repeatedly by


adding multiple embellishments (like the focal diamond), the designer
recommends using 4 lb. test Fireline. This strength Fireline is also good for
components made with smaller beads (as in the toggle ring and bar).
In components with large beads and fewer retraced thread paths (as in
the square tubes), the designer suggests the heavier 10 lb. test Fireline.
We used 6 lb. Fireline for all components in testing this piece and felt
that our beadwork was sturdy and the bead holes werent too full of
thread. No matter what thread you use, always retrace the thread path
of any part of your work that feels wobbly.

Cubic RAW how-to


Each cubic right-angle weave (or
CRAW) unit has six surfaces four
sides, a top, and a bottom. Each
surface is made up of four beads,
but since the beads are shared,
12 beads are used to make the first
unit, and only eight beads are used
for each subsequent CRAW unit. For
clarity, we used two colors of beads
in the how-to photos.

Working the first CRAW unit

1 On the specified length of thread,


pick up four beads. Tie the beads into
a ring with a square knot, leaving the
specified length tail, and continue
through the first two beads in the ring.
This ring of beads will count as the first
stitch of the unit.
2 Work two right-angle weave stitches
off of the bead your thread is exiting to
create a flat strip of right-angle weave.

b
a c

3 To join the first and last stitches: Pick


up a bead, sew through the end bead
in the first stitch (CRAW 1, ab), pick up
a bead, and sew through the end bead
in the last stitch (bc). CRAW 2 shows a
three-dimensional view of the resulting
cube-shaped unit.
4 To make the unit more stable, sew
through the four beads at the top of the
unit (CRAW 3). Sew through the beadwork to the bottom of the unit, and sew
through the four remaining beads. This
completes the first CRAW unit.

CRAW 1

CRAW 2

Working more CRAW units

1 Each new CRAW unit is worked


off of the top four beads of the previous
unit. These beads are identified in
CRAW 4. Sew through the beadwork
to exit one of these top beads.
2 For the first stitch of the new unit:
Pick up three beads, and sew through

1
CRAW 3

CRAW 4


December 2014 20

the top bead your thread exited at the


start of this step. Continue through the
three beads just picked up (CRAW 5).
Sew through the next top bead in the
previous unit.
3 For the second stitch of the new unit:
Pick up two beads, and sew through the
side bead in the previous stitch, the top
bead your thread exited at the start of
this stitch (CRAW 6), and the next top
bead in the previous unit.
4 For the third stitch of the new unit:
Repeat step 3 (CRAW 7), and continue
through the side bead in the first stitch
of the new unit.
5 For the fourth stitch of the new unit:
Pick up a bead, and sew through the
side bead in the previous stitch and the
top bead in the previous unit (CRAW 8).
6 To make the unit more stable, sew
through the beadwork to exit a top
bead in the new unit, and sew through
all four top beads (CRAW 9). This completes the new CRAW unit.
7 Repeat steps 26 for the desired
number of CRAW units.

CRAW 5

CRAW 6

CRAW 9

CRAW 7

CRAW 8

CRAW 10

Working a joining unit


A joining unit is used to connect two
completed CRAW units to each other.
Units may be joined end to end or
perpendicular to one another (as
shown here).
1 Sew through the beadwork to exit
a top bead in one unit.
2 For the first stitch of the joining unit:
Pick up a bead, sew through the corresponding bead in the other unit, pick
up a bead, and sew through the bead
your thread exited at the start of this
step (CRAW 10). Sew through the first
bead added and the adjacent bead
in the next side. If you are joining pieces
at an angle, try to do the stitches on
the inside of the angle first.

CRAW 11

CRAW 12

3 For the second stitch of the joining


unit: Pick up a bead, and sew through
the corresponding bead in the other
unit, the previous joining bead, the
bead your thread exited at the start
of this stitch (CRAW 11), and the bead
just added. Sew through the adjacent
bead in the next side.
4 For the third stitch of the joining
unit: Pick up a bead, and sew
through the corresponding bead

CRAW 13

in the other unit, the previous joining


bead, the bead your thread exited
at the start of this stitch (CRAW 12),
and the bead just added. Sew
through the adjacent bead in the
next side.
5 For the fourth stitch of the joining
unit: All beads are already in place.
Simply sew through the four beads
that remain unconnected (CRAW 13).


December 2014 21

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