Spain Volume II PDF

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Act on Copyright
in Literary and Artistic Works
The Ministry of Justice
March 1, 1996
Stockholm
(Act 1960:729, of December 30, 1960, as amended up to January 1, 1996).
CHAPTER 1.
Subject Matter and Scope
Article 1.
Anyone who has created a literary or artistic work shall have copyright in that work, regardless of whether it is
1. a fictional or descriptive representation in writing or speech,
2. a computer program,
3. a musical or dramatic work,
4. a cinematographic work,
5. a photographic work or another work of fine arts,
6. a work of architecture or applied art,
7. a work expressed in some other manner.
Maps and other works of a descriptive nature executed as drawings, engravings, or in a three-dimensional form,
shall be considered as literary works.
Spain offers many beautiful rock climbing spots, warm weather, sun and beaches. coronn.com present the areas that are regarded to be some of the best.
Together they offer more than 3600 rock climbing routes. To these spots you can find cheap flights during each time of the year and Spain, with friendly
people, good food and a lot of culture events offers more than climbing, it is also a beautiful country for resting days.
El Chorro could be called a "brutal but beautiful area" since

it and the surrounding countryside are dry, steep and almost
inaccessible. To get to most of the crags you have to make
your way through railway tunnels. Reaching many of the
crags takes an hour or more on foot! Even so, El Chorro is
one of the most famous rock climbing areas in Europe, the
reason being simply that there are many nice routes and
beautiful crags.
Because of its location in the south of Spain rock climbing
is possible throughout the winter even though it can sometimes
be cold and there may even be snow. El Chorro with two
outlying areas offers 650 routes.
Montserrat with its conglomerate mountain rock could

almost be from another planet. In the middle of a primarily
flat countryside the Montserrat peaks seem to rise out of
nowhere. The area looks like a giant' s playground where
they have been making sandcastles of concrete. Many of the
towers that provide superb rock climbing or mountaineering
are visible from the Barcelona. The Topos cover 350 climbing
routes, most of them is traditional rock climbing.
The mountains of Prades are formed by a range that rises
sharply to the north out of the plains of the Camp of Tarragona.
This excellent example of Mediterranean mountain range,
dominated by high plateaus, broken by crags and gully's built
on a complex geology that shows surprising materials as the
red clays and white chalks of the crags. We present five rock
climbing areas, Arboli, La Mussara, La Riba, Mont-ral and
Siurana, all of them located near the nice city of Tarragona.
The Topos cover 1700 routes. (Spain volume 1).
Barcelona
Madrid
Tarragona
SPAIN
Palma de
Mallorca
Malaga
coronn.com
The island of Mallorca, provides excellent rock climbing in

beautiful surroundings. The routes here offer all kinds of
difficulty, from easy rock climbing to really hard rock climbing
routes. If you are prepared to take your time, the small roads
on the East of the island will lead you to beautiful rock
climbing. Mallorca is a good choice for both families and
hard rock climbers. 916 climbing routes
Download wallpapers and

screensavers from the area, free
at www.coronn.com
Visit www.coronn.com and see

our gallery of rock climbing
pictures.
At the web site you can get more

information about each climbing
area and see a lot of pictures
from each spot.
How you can use the Topos
Symboles
The Topos is published as a PDF and in the computer (or PDA, Cell-phone) you can take benefit of
the possibilities that the program offer.
On the coronn.com sketches there is a lot of links to use as shortcuts to navigate in the document.
In the left lower corner there is always links to Roadmaps or Key-maps (in case there are one).
At the sketch itself, there is sometimes links to a detailed part of the crag or to the continuing part
of the crag.
You can also use the Bookmarks, hidden in a vertical menu on the left side. From here you can
navigate directly to chosen area or to the crag you want to see.
You can also use the Search function (has a binoculars as a symbol), write the name of the area, the
crag or even the route and the program will find it for you.
In some cases the links in coronn.com Topos leads you on the Internet to web sites where you can
get more information.
Sunny
crag, often
facing South
Crag with little sun,

often facing North,
East or West or
located in the shadow
Overhanging crag,
protected from rain
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. This Topos is not a

substitute for experience and proper judgement. We accept
no liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers,
third parties, or property arising from use of the information
on this home page or on the TOPOS that are distributed
from coronn.com.
1.2. Andonno, Paretino dell onda

South
30 m. Multi Pitch 40 m.
See
route
no. 60
1.4.
56
24
47, 49
50 51 52
48
See 1.3.
24. Spigolo Manolo-Dog 6a+,7a+
47. Viet
48. Platoon
49. Ghillie Dhu
50. Zobra
51. Luna
6b
?
6c
6b
6c
coronn.com
52. Alduino il druido

53. Grizzly
54. Acqua chiara
55. Buon Anno
56. Zero in Condotta
57. Steston
58. Tutto da rifare
59. Xy
6c
7a,7a+
7a+
7b+
7b+
?
8a
?
53
54
55, 57
58
56
59
coronn.com
Address:
Via Aradolo 4a
12010 Andonno (CN)
ITALY
email:
info@coronn.com
Published 2007, May
El Chorro
How to find the crags:
Drive from the airport in the direction of Malaga, turn onto highroad A357 and
follow this road for about 30 km, then turn right in the direction of Alora on road
A343. After 9 kilometres, take road 7077 and continue 4,5 kilometres to reach
Alora. In Alora you find the closest super market, even if you can get some food
in the area of El Chorro it will cost you +25%.
From Alora, follow signpost for El Chorro (Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, Garganta
dei Chorro). Just before an artificial lake, turn left, cross the river and drive up to
the small village El Chorro. In the village you will find two huts, a bar and a railway
station (You can also take the train from Malaga to El Chorro, a car is necessary
for to reach the outlying areas.
To get to Desplomlandia: Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After
a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about
5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction; hold right again and soon you will
pass the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass
the bar and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro; you have a
big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometres Desplomlandia turns up on your
right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction
you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction
of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side
of the road you will see a farm. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed
where you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave is to walk back over the
bridge from the car park and then turn right, you will find a hole where you can
abseil down to the bottom of the cave.
Campillos
A92
A384
Antequera
Teba
Campillos
Gorge
A35
Antequera
Estacin
59
A3
Teba
A343
A3
67
Valle de
Abdalajis
Ardales
Carratraca
El Chorro
Valle de
Abdalagis
Villanueva
A343
Desplomlandia
El Chorro
lora
5
A4
Ardales
Pizarra
Carratraca
Alora
A357
Crtama
A366
Coin
Alhaurin
A7
E15
E902
MALAGA
coronn.com
Direction
Teba
How to find the crags, and a big warning:
Direction Desplomlandia
Lake
reservoir
El Makinodromo
Las Baneras
Railway side
Sector Escenario
Los Bloques
El Invento
Las Baneras
Sector Brasil
Petit
Desfiladero
Los Cotos
El Polvorin
Acuario
Zeppelin
On each separate Topo you will find a specified access description.

Though;
In a meeting between the President of the Federation Andalusia
(FAM) and representatives of a delegation of the government
where the access to many of the crags in El Chorro was discussed
the representatives of the government announced that the transit
of pedestrians by the railroad is prohibited. It also announced
that the control will be harder and the fine would be high. And
indeed the delegation has acted of forceful form to apply the
measurement, with groups of the Civil Guard by the entrance of
the tunnels (and inside), in different places and on different hours.
Posters placed in visible places informs (even in English) warns
of the sharp prohibition, and that the fine be 6.000 to 30.000
Euro.
The access to many of the crags in El Chorro is very difficult
without the railway tunnels and the concrete paths (ones built for
the King) on the other side of the gorge is slowly falling apart. In
some places you need a long jump to reach the continuing part.
Together with alredy existing access problems caust by land
owners to the crags Las Encantadas and El Corral the area of
El Chorro is now much smaller. Many crag can now only be
reached from upper gorge, and then you need a car.
Mustapha
A area with a lot of caves.

Los Venenos
El Recodo
Pasarela de
Los Venenos
Santimonia
Verdonia
Direction
Ardales
Juaja
Amptrax Area
Poema de Roca
Albercones
Placas del Olimpo
Escalera Arabe
Sin Futuro
Serena
Africa
4x4
Las Encantadas
Bedees
Cerro Cristo
El Corral
Refugio
Refugio
coronn.com
Sector Caliza
Hotel
Ra
ilwa
y
Direction
Alra
1. Albercones
How to find the crag:

Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro. Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns
off to the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a open place where you have to park the
car if you have one. The crag is located on the other side of the railway. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other
crags as Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags
as far away as El Makinodromo. The right hand
tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow
and has no pedestrain access.
See the detailed map.
South, South-East
5-20 m, Multi-pitch 60 m.
1. Jenny
2. Estrella
3. ? (top rope)
4.? (top rope)
5. ? (top rope)
6. ?
7. Little brown baby
8. Simn ha perdido el panadero
9. Luna
10. Instinto
11. Big fun
12. Montn de chatarra
13. Vas pisando huevos
5
4+
4+
4+
4+
7b
7a
6c+
6c
6a
6a+
6a
4
56
39 40
53
41 42
43 44
51
52
17
2. Amptrax
26
28
16 17,19 21
4+ 18 20 22
14. La corona
15. Punto de salida
16. El pjaro loco
17. Chigaga
18. Vaca loca
54 55,
56
5
7a
7b
7b+
25
38
27
45
46
47
48
49
50
23
29 30
24
11
12
31 32 33
34 35 36 37
P
Gravelled road from El Chorro
1 2
3
19. Supers0nica
20. Riders in the storm
21. Emmanuelle
22. Si te vas...
6 7 8 9
4 5
7b+
7b+
6c+
7a+
coronn.com
14 15
10,
11
12,13
23. La Chivito ( neads gear )

24. Trepadero de Acceso
25. Sapillo Momificato
26. Saca la Lengua
27. Cosa de Dos
28. Qutate la ropa
29. Troncomovil
30. Ganmedes
31. Engrase la Bisgara Macarra
32. Estas Porido Chaval
3,4,3
5
7b+
6b+
6c
6b+
6a
6b+
6c+
7c+
33. Rompe hielo

34. Chicelito Querido
35. Arzapua
36. Los capullos
37. ?
38. Ocano gris
39. Project
40. Vuelo nocturno
41. Variant
42. La trompa de la virgen
43. Safari
44. Bruchfee
8a
6b+
7b
7b
7c
7a
?
7b
7b
7a
7b
6c
45. Me duelen los huevos

46. Zul Exprs
47. Alien Girl
48. Chica pelirroja
49. Gabi
50. Puitferio
51. Er Vuelo de los Peluos
52. El Virgo de Vencenteta
53. Cita en Sevilla
54. El Truco del Almendruco
55. Sufre Mamn
56. Malditos roedores
7a
6a+
5a+
6a
6a
6a
6a+
6b+
7a+
7a
7a+
6c+
2. Amptrax
South, South-East
5-30 m, Multi-pitch up to 150 m.
1. Pa lante amigos
2. Son cuartos
3. Amptrax ( neads gear )
4. Las Cabras ( neads gear )
5. Coo Paco
6. Sexo, drogas y flamenco
7. Alica
8. Bienvenido al circo
9. Qu leche que tengo
10 Judea del frente popular
11. Frente popular de Judea
12. ?
13. Mario Jacinto
14. La nias de mis ojos
15. Urriki
16. Ajonjoli
17. Soador de grado
6a, 6c
4a,6b+
3,4,5,5,5,4,4
5,4,4+
7a
7a+
7b+
7b
6c,7b
7b+
6a+,6c+,6b,6a
5a,6c+
6b+
6c+
7a+
7c
6a+,6a,6a
9
1 2
14
16
4
5
6 7 8
10,
11
12
17
13
Short routes
Next to route number 16 follows seven short routes.

coronn.com
Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro.

Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off to
the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a open place where you have
to park the car if you have one. The crag is located on the other side of the railway. Take the track that
leads up the hill over the tunnel to the right. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other crags as
Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El Makinodromo. The right tunnel ( which leads
back to El Chorro ) is narrow and has no pedestrain access. See the detailed map.
3.1. Poema de Roca
1. Caf cous bourbon

2. ?
3. Gaia
4. El orejazo
5. Hamunaptra
6. Honk down
7. Ak sunamun
8. Habana club
9. Insomnio de equipamiento
10. Seco y Pedro
11. ?
12. Canal
13. Antidoto
14. ?
15. El padre Orillos
16. Hora Kane
17. El fn de una vida
South, South-East
18. Costris climbers

19. Acceso verdes
20. Verdes Venonas
21. Hierbes Letales
22. ?
9 Maquina Cualquiera
15 Poema de Roca
22 ?
4b,6c,7a,6c+
4b
6c,7a+,6b+
7a
7c+
7c
7b+
7a
6c+
6b,6c,7a+
6a,6c+,7a+
6a
?
7c
7b+
7b
7b,6b+,7a+,
7b+,7b,6c,4c
7c
6b
7a+
7b
4a,6c
7b+,6c+,7a+,
7b+,7a+,6a+
7a,7c+,7b,
7c,7a,6c
6b,7a
6
5
21
20
13, 15,
14 16
12
3,
4 7
11
8 9

9
15
17
18
22
10
19
22
Amptrax
coronn.com
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation,

continue and pass the Hotel. In the first Tjunction, hold left and follow the step road. Just
where the road starting to be strait a small
gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left,
follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up
from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right
turn, then it change direction towards the other
side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will
see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road
to the left and take the next one down to an
open place, park here. Walk towards the crag
on one of many tracks that al leads to it. See
the detailed map.
3.2. Poema de Roca, Cave
47. ?
48. ?
49. ? (left variant)
50. ? (right variant)
51. ?
52. La princesa Carol
53. Suizo
South, South-East
19. Acceso verdes

20. Verdes Venonas
21. Hierbes Letales
22. ?
23. Kervala
24. Maquina Cualquiera
25. El complot
26. Lavia Stragniato
27. Eye of the storm
28. Thunder struck
29. Swimming trough a shark attack
30. ?
31. Viejos rockeros
32. Conexin
33. Poema de roca
34. Alicantropica
35. Rima libre
36. Viejo traidor
37. Miquel
38.Morritos Jeagger
39. Rudolf
40. Viejo Amigo
41. Garca Aguas
42. Scorpin
43. Los seores de HXF
44. ?
45. Mamacita
46. El ave fnix
6b
7a+
7b
4a,6c
8b
7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+
8a+
7b
7b+
8a
8a
?
8a+
8b
7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c
?
8a
7b+
?
7b
7c+
7a
6b
5a
7c+
?
8a
?
6a
6c
7a+
7b
?
4c
5+
44 45
33
39
54. Vivacporus
55. El seor de las tinieblas
56. Solarium
57. Lobo Lobez
58. Deprish y con Bulla
59. Super mario
60. Nanuz
61. A Pique de un Repique
7b
6b,7a
7b
7b
6c
6a+
6a+
6c
46
43
34 37
21
53
36
26
2728
30
23 24,
31,
25
29 32 35 38
40 41 42
19 22
61
47to52
56
57
58
54
59 60
55
Amptrax
coronn.com
Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold
left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp
to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road.
Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley.
During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to the left and take the next one
down to an open place, park here. Walk towards the crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it. See the
detailed map.
4.1. Placas del Olimpo

West
20-30 m
9
1. Los Aristogatos
2. Los Aristogatos variant
3. Hijos de la Luna
4. Diploducus Activo
5. Vuelo Migratorio
6. Vuelo Migratorio variant
7. ?
8. Muon Free
9. ?
10. Troglodita Feroz
11. Vaya placa
12. Gran Fisura
13. Moloch
14. La banda del Sur
15. Nameless power
16. Trango
17. Project
18. Kukenan Tepoi
19. Escalon de Hillary
3c,6c
3c,6c
4c
6a+
4c
4c,3c
7a+
7a+
6c
6b
4c
6a
6a
8b
8c
8b
?
7b+,7c
6a+,6a+
10
11 12
14 15
13
16 17
18
8
7
1,2
19
5,
6
* neads gear.
coronn.com
left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of
sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the
valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and
park in a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Walk the steep
track up to the crag. See the detailed map.
4.2. Sin Futuro

West
20 m
7b
7c
7b+
7a
6a
6c
6b
4c
6b+
8.2x
62
tre
b
1. Sin futuro
2. Moya boom
3. Sport Billy
4. Gollum bueno
5. Gollum malo
6. Rabillos de pasas
7. Tila para el estrs
8. Cerar atack
9. Bienmesabe
lA
taF
8.2x
62
tre
b
lA
taF
2 3
8
5
coronn.com
left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of
sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the
valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and
park in a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Walk the steep
track up to the crag. Sin Futuro is to be found below Olimpo. See the detailed map.
5.1. Escalera Arabe

South
30 m
3 4
7 8
91011
12
13
14 1516
17
1. The final after

2. Potrero chico
3. Bagigi
4. El beso de la flaca
5. Lucky no come Pan
6. Filou
7. Blanca
8. Escolopendra guajanii
9. El amor sandunguero
10. Coloboracin ciudadana
11. Alta traicin
12. Engendro caneki
13. El rabe perdido
14. Lococolo
15. Diedre torpedol
16. Arabesque
17. Sheik tu dinero
7b
6b
5a
5a
6a
6a
6a
6b+,6c
6c,6b+
7a+
7a+
6a,6a+
6c+
7a
6c
7a
7a
coronn.com
18. Birdy
19. Calvo potrn
20. Coming on strong
21. Rock the kasbah
22. Slo afeitar
23. ?
24. La Raya a la izquierda
25. Antonio y Sergio
26. Yo y mi resaca
27. For fite
28. Double edged
18 19
7b+
7c
7a+
7b
6a
3c
4c
4c
4c
6b
6c
20
21
22
23 24
25
26
27
28

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and
pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the
step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small
gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you
walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to
the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn,
then it change direction towards the other side of the valley.
During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two
small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bend where
the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ).
Continue a couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on
your left. A pinnacle can be seen, this is by the crag. A couple
of hundreds metres hard walk up to the crag rewards with a
beautiful scenery and nice climbing. See the detailed map.
5.2. Escalera Arabe

South
30 m
27. For fite

28. Double edged
29. Pecho lobo
30. Pecho lata
31. Una Ilora siempre
32. El Navigator
33. Los gemelos
34. La sonrisa vertical
35. Longarone
6b
6c
6a+
7a
6c
6c,6a,6c,3c,7a
6c
6c
6b+
36. La chillona
37. O sole mio
38. Los timbales
39. El artista
40. Dos tetas tiran
41. Ms que una carretas
42. Highway to Africa
43. Mali en Suzuki
44. ?
45. Kiwi
46. La gaita
3a,6a,6a
5a
4c
3a
6b+
6a
5a,6b
6a+, 6c
6b
4a
3c
46
45
20
21
36
37
38
39
40 41 42
44
43

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass
the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road.
Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road
turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct
up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this
road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards
the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema
de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass
a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed
the valley ). Continue a couple of hundred metres and park on a
lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle can be seen, this is by the crag. A
couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to the crag rewards with
a beautiful scenery and nice climbing. See the detailed map.
Further up in the valley you will find

another small crag, Serena, with 8 routes,
from left to the right;
1. Mar de nubes
2. ?
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
7. Project
8. La trifulca
6b
6a
6a
6a+
6c+
7a+
?
6a
33
29
30
31
32
34
coronn.com
35
6. Las Encantadas
South
30 m
21
22
20
23
2
6a+
6a
6a+
6a
6b
6a+
4
6a
6c
7b
8a+
7b
7b+
8a+
6c+
7a+
6c+
6c
5+
7b+
8a
6c+
3 4
28
29
30 31,
32
8
18
9
15
10
11
23. Espoloa Nombrada

24. Un Poco Vicioso
25. Mezcia Explosiva
26. Kit Grimpe
27. Gros Rouge
28. Pero quin tiene la culpa
29. Sara
30. Bailando con oses
31. Dura Vida la de un Frekee
32. Fiebra de Sur
coronn.com
32
26 27
1. Bolondro
2. Nobro Propio
3. Bohem Destrell
4. Poum Poum Ram Ram
5. Para Que Disfrute la Canalla
6. Crisis de Intentidad
7. Atenea
8. Geisha
9. Program Genocida
10. Maon Tropo
11. Las Mulas Comen Muchas Cuerdas
12. Un Lait Fraiche pour Monsieur
13. Generacin Lmite
14. Mam Endika
15. Bueno, Bonito y Barato
16. Chorro Mundo
17. La ley del Cateto
18. Mataillos Lugareos
19. Artemisa
20. Tipo Indio
21. No me Miras Mal
22. No Puedo Controlarme
24 25
7a+
7a+
8a
7b+
7b
7a
7a+
7b
6c+
7a
12
16 17
19
13 14

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the
Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. After a couple
of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about 200 meters you will
find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to the crag. If you
walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same
road.
These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is
unfortunately sometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the
situation before you climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe loweroff. If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the
house to the crag. See the detailed map.
7 and 8. Bedees, El Corral

South, South-East
30 m
17 18 19
16
78
4
2
5 6
1
Bedees (Not on TOPO)
coronn.com
11
12
13
13,
14
1. Preparete en los Bodgegas

2. Bedees
3. Einfach zu Einfach
10
6c
6b+
6b
15
1. Arnold
2. El Corral
3. Mano Incorrecto
4. La Cantante calve
5. Super mano
6. Los Muyayos
7. Doble cero
8. Lengua de Fuego
9. Avecrem a mano
10. Ceregumils kid
11. Pata Negra
12. Monodedo de mono
13. Un da de Playa
14. Capitian Carverncola
15. Resbaizimo
16. Ritz
17. Tumbado
18. El Jouen Roman
19. La Chata Rosa
7a+
5+
6c
7c
7b+
6c+
7a
7a+
6b
7b
8a
8b
7c+
7c+
7b
6a+
6c+
6b
7b

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation,
continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold
left and follow the step road. After a couple of sharp
bends the road becomes "strait". After about 200 meters
you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and
walk up to the crag. If you walk, find a track direct up
from the Hotel and you will come to the same road.
These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees,
superb crags, is unfortunately sometimes closed, so
you better ask some locals of the situation before you
climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe loweroff.
If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the
refugio and the house to the crag. See the detailed map.
9. Caliza
North
15 m
16 17
1
2
8 9 10 11 12
13 14
18
19
15
6
7
1. Caliza
2. Pareca ms
3. Arranpicare con Adn
4. La Abujeritos
5. No ms t
6. Harte un t
7. Santi ana
8. Medio Dia
9. Juantanamera
10. Diurana
11. Nocturna
12. ?
13. ?
14. ?
15. ?
16. Guacamayo
17. ?
18. ?
19. Diedro guanamino
6b+
6a+
6b
6a
6a
5a
4a
6a
6b+
6a+
6a+
?
?
?
6b
7c+
6c+
7c
6b
Route number 11 and 19 neads gear.

coronn.com
From El Chorro, drive or walk on the road over

the bridge by the dam. Turn right and continue
about 300 meters and Calzia is located just by
the road on your left. See the detailed map.
High tech DMM manufactured quick draw as follows; hot forged, lightweight
quick draw, 99 gram full strength, 24/8/8, anodized 7075 T6 Alloy, iso9001,
3sigma, CE marked, gate opening: 28 mm,supplied with a 12 mm dynema
sling, black&white, 10 cm alloy coloured biners, titan coloured bent gate,
anodized, shrouded nose helps guard against accidental gate opening.
10. Los Venenos, Pasarela de Los Venenos

South, South-East
1. Diedro de Hercules
2. Luz Verde
3.La Cupla la Tiene el Bar de Isabel
4. Fruto prohibito
5. Valla plan
6. Ace Ventura
7. El ultimo rayo del sol
8. Aixamatinae
9. Jaque el Rey
6b+,6b
7b
7a
8b
6c+
8a+
7a+
7c+
7c+
15
17
21
19 20
16
17
18
Walkway to
Santimonia
10
11 12 13
22
23
14
15
5
3
4
6
10. Les Cutres

11. Pedorro y Macaco
12. Demcratas Cristianos
13. No seas pesada nena
14. Camino shuffle
15. El techito del pirata
16. La Ampola
17. Octopus dey
18. Avin Rockero
6b+
7c+
7a+
6c+
7b
6a,5,5+,5+,5+
5,6a,6a,6a,5+
6c,6a,6c
5+,6a,6a
coronn.com
19. Victima de la Evidence

20. Empotrador Atmico
21. Zapatilla Jebe
22. Excedente de cupo
23. Venecia celeste
6a
5+
7a
6a,6a+,6b,5
5+,5+,5+,4
Warning, access by the

railway tunnel is
prohibited! click to read more
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ),
walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way
to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels the
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway (
Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you
sometimes could need a rope for safe access. See the
detailed map.

railway tunnel is
11. Santimonia
South
60 m.
1 Ventana en el Tropico
2 Camino sin Ander
3 Sendero Luminoso
4 Polva de Angel
5 Hartelo
6 Sangre Latina
7 La Tregua del pedal
8 Santimonia
7a+
4,6a,6a+,4
5+/a2,6a,
3,6b,6c+,5,5
8b+
7b
6c
7c+
6c+,6a,6b
1
6
To Africa
9 Desos de Domino
10 Jabega
11 Moco de Hierro
12 Lobo de Mar
13 Er-Mouriadine
14 Chupa la gamba
7a+
7b+
6c
7a+
6c
6b,6b
4
5,6
7
8
10
11
To Pasarela de
Los venenos
12
13
14
coronn.com
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other areas and
when you aint in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino
del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner.
Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. See the detailed map.
12. Cerro Cristo

South, South-East
30 m, Multi-pitch up to 160 m.
1. Heavy gravity
2. Bring your friends
3. Pos Comeme el Cipote Maricona
4. I'm still thinking
5. Teta, Coo, Culo
6. Aparacamiento Indebido
7. Rayito de Luna
8. Thaillelandia
6a+
6c+
6c+
6c+,7a
6c+,8a,5+
5+,6a,6b,6c
4,5+,6a,6a,6a,6b+
7c
Route number 1,2,3,6 and 7 neads gear.

coronn.com
From El Chorro. Drive or walk down the "main" road, pass the bridge over the dam and
take right. You will pass Sector Caliza and a bar, both on your left. Continue until the
road turns left and you are about to miss the view over the lake. You will find a car park
on the right side of the road. Walk back and down to the water ( often just sand and
stone ). Find some dry way to cross over to the crag. This crag ain't really worth visiting.
See the detailed map
13. Africa
North, North-East
Multi-pitch up to 150 m.
1. Material Belico
2. Africa
3. La bella y la bestia
4. Chiripitiglauticos
5. La Dame del viento
6. Cuando se lo diga a mis amigos
4,5,5,6a
6a+,6b+,5,6b
6a+,7a+,7a,7a
5+,6a,5+,6b+
6b+,6b,6c,6c+
6b+,6b,6c+,6b+
4
3
All routes neads gear for descent, rote number 3 and 5

are fully boulted.
Tunnel
from Juaja.
Warning, access
by the railway
tunnel is
prohibited!
click to read more
Do not touch
the bit when
running the
engine
coronn.com
2,3
5,6
From the parking at Albercones ( see

crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant
but it is a fast way to the other areas
and when you aint in the tunnels the
scenery sometimes are extraordinarily.
The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a
amazing concrete path where you
sometimes could need a rope for safe
access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take
left and follow the concrete walkway
around the corner. Just before the Pipe
bridge there is a big gap in the walkway
so take care.
Cross the bridge and on your left is
Africa.
Approach by crawling along a tunnel
that is marked on the TOPO for Sector
Juaja. Abseil 52 meter to the ledge over
the water and traverse leftwards.
Use the same tunnel to get back.

railway tunnel is
14. Juaja
North-West
25 m.
8,9
6
10
1. Enimigo Pblico
2. Juaja
3. E por Doquier
4. Granainos '85
5. Atltica y Llorica
6. ?
7. Page make
8. Cangreo
9. Monsters forever
10. Verbene de Lapiz
11. Una Espaola nunca mea sola
7b
7a+
8a+
6b
7a+
7c
7b+
8c
8b
7c
7b
Route number 4 neads gear.

4
11
1
3
To
El Recodo
Access to
Africa
coronn.com
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for
train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the
tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete
path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before
the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. Cross the bridge and you will find these crag.
The tunnel is the access to Africa. See the detailed map
15. El Recodo
North
30 m.
See "How to find the crag" for route 1,2 and 3.
1. Verdonia (access to 2to4)
2. Moloko plus
3. Enano Pagano
4. Harte drogadisto
5. Dixci
6. Pixci
7. La Canastera
8. Tipo Sueca
9. Calgula
10. El Campista
11. Musas Inquientantes
12. Iriquieza
13. Hari-Kiri
14. Cherokee
15. Bon voyage
16. Apache
17. Rasta de posta
18. Come Unas
19. Los Capitalistas
20. Bob Marley
21. Rovicunda
22. Ale bop
23. Todos pretenden saber
24. Los Gozas y las Sombras
25. King Kong
26. Indio Jumeli
27. Recodo
28. Six Vicious
29. Tumisimo
30. Sietebe del Plumero
31. Miss Dedos
32. Cachito
33. Nachito
34. Lluvias Otoales
35. Maestro Golpeador
4c,4c
6c+
6c+
5a
6c+
6b+
7b+
6c+
6c,7b+
7b+
8a
7b+,7c+
8c+
?
6c,6b+
6b,7a+
6b+
6a+
7c+
7b+
6b
6a+
6c
6c+,7a
6b+
6c
6a+
6b+
7b+
7a+
6c+
6c
6b
4c
6b
coronn.com
12
16
13 14
15
5 6
10
11
20
21
22
19
17 18
23
24
25 26
27
31
28 29 30
35
33
32
34

railway tunnel is
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other areas and when you aint in the tunnels
the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where
you sometimes could need a rope for safe access.
Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before the
Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care.
Cross the bridge and follow the walkway, pass Juaja, in to a cleft and continue, behind the next corner you will
find most of the routes of this sector. Just before you pass the corner a track up to the left leads you to the first
tree routes, all are graded 6c+. See the detailed map
16. Mustapha
17. Zeppelin
South
60 m.
South
East
10 m, Multi-pitch 300 m. 25 m.
1. Zeppelin
2. Espoln Masay
3. ?
4. Shaka Zulu
5. Perspectiva Neieski
6. Gresca gitana
7. Lactarius Delciosus
8. La Pea se Despea
9. Acuario
10. Papalillo Pafuena
11. Doa Patrcia
12. ?
13. Mustafa
14. Estrella de Sur
15. Diedre de Los Vencejos
16. Reino Fungi
17. Sangre aborigen
18. El secadero
19. Los Tres Techos
20. Ron plido
21. Alas de mosca
22. ? (no TOPO)
23. Bahia Cochino (no TOPO)
18. Acuario
4,6a+,5,6c,6c+,
5,6b+,3,6b,4
3,5+,5+,5,5+
6b+,3,6b,4
8c
8b
8b+
8a+
6b+
6c+
6a+
6a
?
?
6c+,7c+,5+
6c+,7a
a1
7b+
8a+
8c
a2
8c
?
6b+
7a+
Warning,
access by
the railway
tunnel is
prohibited!
19
17
15
Mustapha
18 20 21
click to read more
11
12
Route number 1,2,9,10,15 and 19

neads gear.
3
1
13
14
Acuario
4 56
22 and 23. The first

one is 22.
coronn.com
10
From the parking at Albercones

( see crag number 1 ), walk by
the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area.
The track ain't pleasant but it's
a fast way to the other areas.
Walk through several tunnels
and pass sector Los Venenos,
the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a
extrordinary scenery, continue
and the next time you will see
the sky it's time to abseil down
from the railway bridge. Go left
if you want to climb route number
12 and 13, head right if you want
to climb any of the other ones.
19.1. Los Cotos

Sector Bajas and Medios
South-East
35 m.
29
14
2
13
15
16
17
18
19 20 21
22 23
24 25
26
27
28
30 31
12

railway tunnel is
11
1
3
4
7 8 9
1. Rebuznos de Amor
2. Jakima
3. Diedro y Quique
4. Ordinada Salvaje
5. Mama quiero ser Torero
6. San Satanas
7. San Gabriel
8. La Hora del Maquis
9. La Placa Morrocoduda
10. Berrinche de Chinche
11. El Yerno de Abraham
10
7b+
6c
3,3+
4c
6a
4c
4c,4c
4c
6a
6b
6a
12. Les Muelles de Guite

13. 4 Mejilliones 20 duros
14. Rafael Anyaya
15. Camella cojo
16. Fisuroterapia
17. Fisura de los Santos
18. Fisura de Hambre
19. Bitchitos on the wailers
20. El Monstruo de las Galletas
21. Mordiscos de Amor
22. ?
6a+,7a+
6c+
4c+
5a
4c
5a
3c
4a
4c+
4c
6a+
23. Alucinosis
24. Cursillos
25. Number one
26. Bruja Intrepida
27. Galleta
28. Super Galleta
29. la Gabi
30. Los Mandriles no comen Galletas
31. La Madriles
6a
4a
3c
4c
3c
5a
6b+
6a+
7a
Routes written in Italics neads gear.
coronn.com
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look
out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through
several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft
with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find
these crag on both sides of the entrance to the next tunnel. See the detailed map
19.2. Los Cotos

Sector Cotos Altos
South-East
45 m.
65
63
32. Empotrador Empotrador

33. Montgroni free
34. Cebolla Oscilante
35. Cebolla p la olla
36. Genesis
37 El Arbolo
38. Bruno in the Brunin
39. Ley de la Selva
40. Embolia Cerebral
41. The policeman stole my Walkman
42. Girilandia
43. La diagonal de Almera
4a,4a
6a+
5a
4c
6a+
6a+
6a+
6b
5a
6b
7a
6a+
44. Cafe Bonk

45. Penetracin Analgssica
46 Si te Caes pega una voz
47. Amarilla
48. El ventorro
59
7a+
6c
6c
4c,5a
6a+
58
60
47
65,
66
50
54
61 62,
63
55
41
34
46
48,
47 49
51 52
56 57
53
45
44
38
43
39 40, 42
41
37
32
49. La Blanca
50. Fisura de los santos
51. Guerrero del Abismo
52. Exceso de Equipaje
53. Chungo Superior
54. Quasimodo
33
35
6b
6c
6c+
6b+
5a,6a
7a+
coronn.com
36
55. Profanes y Blasfemos

56. El techo de marras
57. Pisto jilguero
58. El Dinamitate te Espera
59. Que te den por culo
60. Yu Yu
6b+
A1
6c+
6c
6a+
6c
61. Chulo de Madriza

62. El Piqui
63. Petamorfosis
64. The butter finger
65. Mister proper
66. El Viajero Amable
67. Adeli
68. Electro Volt
69. Poema vertical
70. Exodo
7a
6b+
7a+
8a
5a,4a
6b+
6b+
6b+
7b+
6a+
67 68
70
69
64
58
Warning, access
by the railway
tunnel is
prohibited!
click to read more
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag
number 1 ), walk by the railway through
the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this
area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast
way to the other areas. Walk through
several tunnels and pass sector Los
Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary
scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin
area. After the next tunnel you will find
this crag on your right.
20. El Polvorin
South
60 m.
Warning,
access by the
railway tunnel
is prohibited!
Walk down
2
5
6
7
1. El gordo ya no come quarro

2. Pedro El Grande
3. Al Chorro con un porro
4. Alerta Roja
5. Sueo de Venus
6. Sueo de Venus variant
7. Pilier Dorada
8. Generacin Espontanea
9. Revuelta en el Frenoptico
10. Habitos de un
Perturbado Irremerdiable
11. Las prefiero tontas

12. Gmes Moya
13. Obsesin permanente
14. La araa Mecnica
15. Paco Eugene
16. Nirvana
17. Rono y Extraploma
18. Urbi et orbe
19. Los Cocodrilos
20. El Engendo
5a
6a
6b
6c
6a+
6b
6c
6c
6a,6c+
6c
6c
6a+,6c+
6b+,6c
6b+
3c,4c,3a,4c,6a
3c,4c,6b+
6c
7a
7a+
6a+
click to read more
8
17
4
5,
6
7, 9 10 11
12
8
13
19
14
18
Route number 12,15 and 16 neads gear.

15,
16
coronn.com
20
From the parking at Albercones

( see crag number 1 ), walk by
the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area.
The track ain't pleasant but it's a
fast way to the other areas. Walk
through several tunnels and pass
sector Los Venenos, the tunnel
open up and you will be in a
narrow cleft with a extrordinary
scenery, continue and pass the
Zeppelin area. Continue and
pass the area of Los Cotos and
after the next tunnel you will
arrive to a beautiful valley with a
perfect spot for wild ( forbidden
) camping by the river. The local
police often visit this place to see
that no one is camping here (
though many take down the tents
and put them up again after a
couple of hours). Walk down
towards this place and you will
find El Polvorin.
21. El Invento
South-East
20 m.
19 20
12
1. Fresquito Fresquito
2. Me empino con un Chumino
3. Discordia
4. Saumerio
5. Alucina por la Esquina
6. Diedro Veneno
7. La leche que mamaste
8. Ahora que te Pillo sola
9. Hay pan
10. Al talego
coronn.com
6c
6a
6b
7b+
7b+
6a
7b+
7a+
6b
6b+
13 14
15
16
17
18
11
9 10
11. Sabrino Royal

12. Pantominas
13. Esclavo del grado
14. Lo Tomas o lo Dejos
15. Champamania
16. La Via Shin
17. Peripecias de Invalido
18. Nacida para la critica
19. Hemoglobina
20. Juego duro
6b+
6b+
6c+
7b
6c+
6b
6c
6c+
6b
6c

railway tunnel is
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ),
walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train!
) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way
to the other areas. Walk through several tunnels and pass
sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be
in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and
pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of
Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a
beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden )
camping by the river. The local police often visit this place
to see that no one is camping here ( though many take
down the tents and put them up again after a couple of
hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag
up to your left on one of many tracks that all leads to the
crag. See the detailed map
22. Los Bloques and Los Tigres

South-East
15 m.
21
12
10 11
20
14 15 16 17, 19
18
13
89
1
4
5
1. Comicos y Modistas
2. Em
3. Straw Donkey
4. La Tete de Mari
5. Hay un Guarillo en la Tapia
6. Salto del gato
7. Salto del gato II
8. ?
9. ?
10. El segundo pigue
11. La poltica del piquillo
6b+
7a+
7b
8b
6a
6b
6b+
?
7c
7c+
?
12. Guiris go home

13. El paso del Serengueti
14. La comunidad afro
15. Prisa mata
16. Por puro vicio
17. El salto del tigre
18. Life with never end
19. Los siete Larrys
20. ?
21. Tatuaje
coronn.com
7a
8a
7b+
7c+
7c
8a
7c
7b
?
?

railway tunnel is
From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway
through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't
pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas. Walk through several
tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the
Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the
next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild
( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place
to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents
and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the
railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all
leads to the crag. The first boulted area is El Invento, the second is this
crag. See the detailed map
23. El Makinodromo

railway tunnel is prohibited!
South-East
35 m.
click to read more
A judge beautiful overhang

18
17
a 28
19
30
43
33
21
22
26
25
38
6
34 35
32,
31
27 29
33
1. Transpoting
2. Samarkanda
3. El orculo
4. Randy
5. Que trabaje Rita
6. Variant
7. Kuala Lumpur
8. Al Ha Kan
9. Al Ha Kan
10. Lourdes
11. La ms seora de todas las putas
7b+
8b+
8b
8b
8c+
8c
?
8c+
9a
8a
?
coronn.com
10 11 12,
14 15
16
20,
21
13
12. Conexin Lourdes

13. La ms puta de todas las seoras
14. Cous-cous
15. Ceskosslovensko Dopichi
16. Melanpina
17. Smashing Pumpkins
18. Variant of 17
19. Atlas Shrieked
20. Pepe el boludo
21. Dentellada
22. Porrot
23. Muten Roy
24. Vete al Infierno
25. Ha kuna Mattata
26. Los Lei Lafen
26a. Estoy mortimer
27. Salida de emergencia
28. Rhytem metod
29. Mystic Rhythem
30. ?
8a+
8a+
8c
8c
8a
8a
8a+
7c+,7c
8a
8a+
7c+
8a
7b
7a+
7b
7a+
6c,7b+
7a+
6b+
?
23
36
24
31. La panda zampabollos

32. La columba de Gollum
33. Life is sweet
34. Ossana en el cielo
35. Kolocotron
36. Anatema
37. No te enfades chaval
38. Heat change
7a+
7b
6c
7b+
7a+
7b
7c
7a
39 40
41 42
44
45 46
47 48
49 50
37
39. Canto pecato

40. One Bastiamba
41. Post Festum
42. Mega flash
43. Grimal el Curtido
44. Punk Street
45. Putanaki
46. Reep
47. ?
48. El polln de Merch
49. La aprieta
50. Efecto ajo
7a+
7b
7b
7a+
7a
7a
7b+
7b
7c+
7a+
8a
7c

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels
(look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other areas.
Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will
be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue
and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley
with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this
place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents and put them up
again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag up to your
left on one of many tracks that all leads to the crag. El Makinodromo is a very beautiful crag
with the well knowed route Lourdes (8a). It's a long walk to come here, but the climbing and
the scenery tends to make this crag to one of the best memories for a cold day at work back
home. See the detailed map
24.1. Las Baneras

Walkway side
North
30 m.
1. Ojos Saltones
2. Hercles Poirot
3. Tartar
4. Vendaval de antigedades
5. Aspromnix
6. l cena tarta de la abuela
7. Color dominante
8. Moro sioputa
9. El imperio de los sentidos
10. Pinchito moruno
11. Salvaje violador
12. ?
13. Al Verdn con un meln
14. Perrito caliente
15. Sin columpiarse
16. Perro violador
17. Algo sobre la virgen
18. Con tangas y a lo loco
19. A Golpe de mazo
20. Replicanto y con el Mazo dando
21. Los mitos tambin lloran
22. Walkway Waltz
23. ?
24. Hijo puta el que quite La Chapa
25. Menbrillo
26. Edy el valiente
27. Palomo cojo
28. ?
29. ?
30. Moco
31. El ultimo Blues
32. Saga Corniz
33. Mola ms que America
34. Tubular bells
7b
8b
7a
?,6b+,8a,
7a,7a+
5a
6c
7b
7a
6c
6c
6b
6a
6a+
6b
7a+
6b
6b
6c+
7b+
7c+
7b
6b+
6c+
3c
4c
6a+
6b
6a
6c
6b
6c
6c+
6a+
6c+
coronn.com
3
21
18
4
10
11 12 13
28
14
15
20
17
16
30
31
32
25
26 27
23 24
19
29
22
33
34

The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the
tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where
you easy get in contact with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try
to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic
surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park
where you are not alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the
concrete walkway. See the detailed map
24.2. Las Baneras

South and North
The railway side
5 6
14 15 16 17
4
1
10 11
12
13
18 19 20 21 22 23
1. La Yacuzi
2. Les Estrellas nom Encaloman
por los veredas
3. Pate de Peil
4. Era virgen y tena holgura
5. Lavadero Flipin
6. Especie de nada
7. T.V. Plus
8. La tortas del grado
9. Tema libre
10. Surimi
11. Batracio
6b+
6a+
6c+
7a+
6c
7b
6c+
6a,7a+
7c+
7a
7a
coronn.com
12. la Topo buana

13. Vientos modernos
14. Techo del popeye
15. Brutus
16. Olivia
17. Cocoliso
6b+,6b
6c,6c+
7c,6c
7b,6c+
7b,?
7b,?
18. ?
19. Project
20. ?
21. Giganta verde
22. Onda vital
23. No acabada
7a+
?
7c
7a+,A0,7b+,8a,7b
8c
8c+

The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the tunnels, but
the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact
with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic
landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before
a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not alowed to drive
further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway. See the detailed map
25 and 26. Escenario, Brasil

South and North
8 9 10
1. Escenario de bufones
2. Avecrem a mano
3. Instinto cabrero
4. Instinto asesino
5. ISouvenir del Brasil
6. Caipiria
7. Carallo
8. Pachanga
9. Maverick
10. ?
coronn.com
6a+,7a
5,5,6a+
7b+
7a+
6a
5a
4c
7b
7a
6c+

The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot,
through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But
El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with other climbers,
and if you don't have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a
fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after
about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road
turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not alowed to drive
further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway.
27. Petit Desfiladero
The railway side.

To El Invento
South and North

45 m.
12
11
Abseil
20 m.
1. Robert Curtino
2. ?
3. ?
4. El ltimo mangante
5. Empacho de gobacho
6. T Vegas
7. Tito Camarn
8. Les batiste
9. Les papanates
10. Torturas Ninjas
coronn.com
14
Abseil
30 m.
15
1 2
13
17
7
8
7a
?
?
6b
7a+
7c
6a+
6c
7b
5
16
10
11. Ruta de la Lycra

12. La higuerola
13. Escuela sin grado
14. paseo por el Limbo
15. Latex lubricated
16. ?
17. Charro del Charro
18. Cantos Nibelungos
18
6c
7b
7c+
7a
6c+
?
6c,6c+
7b

The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by
foot, through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5
hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with
other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift.
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour
in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction
after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a
narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not
alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the
concrete walkway. The bridge and the track that follows leads to
El Invento and back to El Chorro. See the detailed map
28. Outlying area, Desplomlandia

To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get
to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic
landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next
T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are
heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different
from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia
turns up on your right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take
left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba.
Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farm
to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag.
See the road map
Click here to
get to the crag
Suizo
Click here to
get to the crag
Metecaa
Click here to
get to the crag
Poza de la Mona
Click here to
get to the crag
Tringulo
Click here to
get to the crag
Acebuche
Click here to
get to the crag
El cable Como
la vida misma
Click here to
get to the crag
Buena sombra
coronn.com
Gravelled
road to the
lake.
Direction
El Chorro
28.1. Outlying area, Desplomlandia

North-West
30 m.
19
25
24
345
67
89
10
11
12
13
14
19,
15 16 17 18 20
23
21
26
27
22
28
El Cable. Como la Vida Misma
Tringulo
To
Acebuche
Buena sombra
8
33
31
32
11
2
coronn.com
7
6
10
14
12
13
1. Tringulo
2. Maligno catarro
3. Aljamar
4. ?
5. Reina mora
6. Zeus Kapotas
7. Mar de ortigas
8. No toques a tu madre
9. Madre salvaje
10. Oasis de cristal
11. Conexin pelijorra
12. Qu tal mea tu padre?
13. Ms que money
14. De copas
15. La copa
14,15
7a+
6c+
7b
7b+
7c
?
8a
8a+
7c
7c
8a
7b
7b+
7b
7b
1. Puto cable
2. La flaca
3. La decepcin
4. Uretrfilo
5. Akira
6. Dnde estn mis amigos?
7. Oleanna
8. Project
9. Mamabi
10. El ngel flamenco
11. El paso
12. Aro de Santo
13. Maritobi
14.Ostras Pedrn
15. Al loro con el Xato
16. Manzanilla madness
17. Cheyenne
?
29
30
5a
6c+
7a+
7a
7b
7c
7b+
?
6c,7b
7a
6c+
6c+
6a+
4c
6c+
7a
7a+
18. Mquina pestosa

19. Ankana wanamino
20. Al andals
21. Sandokan
22. Si te gusta el pique, pique
23. Capitn sardina
24. Calidad alemana
25. El emigrante
26. El chupacabras
27. Zulo master
28. Chica
29. ?
30. Lirn careto
31. Escombro
32. Autn
33. Los Zauden
7b+
8a+
6c
7c
6b+
6c
6b
7a+
7a+
7a+
5+
7b+
7a,7c
5+
5+
7a

North-West
30 m.
Acebuche
9
13
2 3 4
To the left you find 7 routes, from left;
1. El acebuche
7c
2. El anillo de los nibelungos
7a+
3. Papi xulo
7a
4. Cax
7b
5. Pilla ratas
6c+
6. Rantanpln
6a+
7. Duplo
6a+
coronn.com
7 8, 10 11 12, 14 15 1617 18 19 20 21
13
9
1. Dolomiti
2. Fran sin natra
3. Lirn careto
4. Escombros
5. Autn
6. Champion Leo
7. Los Zauden
8. Derribamitos
9. A ella le gusta la gasolina
10. La golosa
11. El montepo de cretinos
12. Escalador parsito
13. Las Galias
14. El comit de los sabios
15. Judas
7a+
7b
7a,7c
5a
5a
?
7a,8a
8a
8a
7c
?
?
?
?
7b
22 23 24 25
26 27 28
16. El ruin de Roma

17. Viejos y puretas
18. Cosas Caseras
19. Yogur de coco
20. Comando Escandilla
21. Hilando fino
22. Buena sombra
23. Alobeitor
24. Sin mantenimiento
25. Provinciano marrano
26. Debora cuerpos
27. Escacharr
28. Menasatru
29. Vaya pieza
30. Efecto secundario
29
7c
7a+
7a+
6c
6c+
7a+
6b+
6b
6a
6b+
6a+
6b
6a+
6b+
6b
30
31 32 33 34
31. El arco
32. Las cosillas
33. Las cosas de Mike
34. La pyme
6b
6c+
6b
6b
To the right of the main crag you will

find a handfull of routes, 6a to 7b.
Metacaa
1. Las hermanas izuquierdo
2. El carnicero de Milwaukee
3. El asegurador de Huelva
4. Indurin
5. Viuda negra
6. El Fhrer
7. O.J. Simpson
8. Alex Zule
8. La Santa Inquisicin
9. Doctor Lecter
10. El Angles
11. Los Borgian
12. Atrpalo
13. El retorno del dinamita
North-West
30 m.
Metacaa
13
11
8
14
12
7c
8a
7c+
A2
6c
7b
6c+
A2/6a
?
?
?
?
6a
7b
Suizo
1. Huevos cocidos
2. ?
3. ?
4. ?
5. La calabaza
6. Joy
7. T verde
8. miel de romero
7a
?
?
?
7c
7b
7b
7a+
10
Suizo
1
2
3
4
coronn.com
7
1
6
7

North-West
30 m.
Poza de la mona
29
16
14 15
2, 4
3
coronn.com
5 6 7 8
9 10
11 12
17 18 19
20
23 24
21 22
25
26
27
13
1. Entre higos
2. Laguna betiko
3. Buen amigo
4. Pareca tonta
5. Esa bavaresa
6. Flora
7. Fauna
8. Cerebro de broca
9. Kira la bulti
10. Siempre Juli
11. Ras cubano
12. Las gordas no dan resaca
13. Dhate de rollo
14. Sbete a la higuera
15. Poda higuera
6a
6b
6a
6a
6b
6a
6a+
6a
6a
6a+
6a
6b+
6b+
6a+
6b
16. Abrasiva
17. Malva loca
18. Fletn negro
19. Arquitectura moderna
20. Bee-bee
21. Pia disfruta
22. Vas de guais
23. Silicona beach
24. Excremento
25. Hiracundia
26. Prosineski
27. Amor al arte
28. Calorn
29. Ambiente selecto
6c
6c+
7a+
7a
6c+
7b
7c
7b+
7a
7c
7c+
7b
4c
6b+
28
29.1. Outlying areas, Campillos Gorge

West
40 m.
10
12
11
1 2
1 Yo Quierosa Papa
2 Below Tijo lands
3 Pegaso
4 El Mono sin nombre
5 Ya son muchas pechas
6 Mujer sin nombre
7?
8 Nostalgia de Antono
9 El grado viene despue
10 Elo
11 ?
12 ?
13 ?
14 Rodolfa y su cochine
coronn.com
6b
7b
6c+
6b+
6c
6b+
6c
6b+
5
7b
7a+
7a
?
6a,6a+
9,10,11,12
13
14

To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car.
To get to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic
surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right.
Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar
where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and
continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on
your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand
just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction
you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction
of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side
you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed
where you find the crag. See the road map
29.2. Outlying areas, Campillos Gorge

East
50 m.
Entrance, abseil
Big cave
on sepatate
TOPO
2
4
12
14
1 2,3,4,5
1?
2?
3?
4 Amarreto de Canto
5?
6 Cudain
7 Gasofa
8?
9?
10 Pasta de basta
11 Introducion al tema
12 La Costurera
13 Gorilla
14 Ritual Habitual
15 House of pain
16 Lavialatua de mach
17 Nequaquam Vacuum
18 El Guru
19 Putas fever
8a
4,4
7b
7a
?
6b+
6a+
6b+
6b
5,5
4
6b+
7a
7a
?
?
?
7a
6b+
coronn.com
10
13
11,12
20 Violento express
21 Karo Shi
22 Arende notivo rea
23 Posey-don
24 Historia de una chica mala
25 Kamikaze
15
19
18
17
16
20 21
22
23
24 25
7c
7c
7b+
7b+
8a
?

To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get to Desplomlandia:
Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come
to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass
the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape
here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns
up on your right hand just under a mast.
To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction
of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a
bridge, on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where
you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave is to walk back over the bridge from the car park and then turn
right, you will find a hole to abseil down to the bottom of the cave. See the road map
Mallorca
3. Creveta
4. Boquer
1. Cn Txanquet

2. El Fumat
Despite the islands reputation

as hot spot for tourists you can
still find small villages with few
tourists that offer a genuine
atmosphere with the true feel
of Spanish culture. If you are
prepared to take your time, the
small roads on the East of the
island will lead you to one of
the most beautiful rock climbing
spots in Europe.
On each Topo you will find a
detailed description for to
reach each crag.
10. Can Nyic

8. Es Queixal
11. Port Sller
12. Valldemossa
Pollena
C7
13
Port d'Alcdia
9. Gorg Blau
5. Les Perxes
Sller
19. El Calo
C71
2
20. Ermita de Betlem
Inca
6. Alar
Valldemossa
13. Sestrt
Art
Alor
7. Fraguel
C7
14. Sa Gubia
15. Can Ortigues
PALMA
18. Calvi
16. Piug de Garrafa
C71
10
Bunyola
Santa Maria
MALLORCA
C715
Vilafranca
Manacor
Santa Pona
17. Santa Pona
C71
Puerto Cristo
C7
1
C7
14
Andratx
Campos
del Puerto
Felanitx
22. Cala
Magraner
Santanyi
Cala d'Or
21. Santanyi
23. Castell de
Santueri
1.1. Cn Txanquet
South-East, East
15 m.
3 4 5
6
1. Cachi kai
2. Chi craku
3. Tlanqui xanqui
4. Project
5. Fledi Ulkel
6. Project
7. Fa un Fumfi
8. Project
9. Xao Xoxin
10. Cuki
11. Teta Blik
12. Tlasmeditelanea
13. Tila pa Tlas
14. Xin Xubi
7 8
5+
6b
7c
?
7c+
?
?
?
7c
7a
?
?
7b+
7a+
10
11
12
14
13
Cap de Formentor
Beach
P
14 km post
coronn.com
Platia de Formentor
Drive to Port d'Pollena and continue through the village along the coast.
Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag
approximately 100 metres after a tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many
restaurants in Port d'Pollena.
Port de Pollena
1.2. Cn Txanquet
South-East, East
20 m.
24
15
16
17
15. Xao Xina

16. Xin Xampu
17. Brut Lee
18. Xop Suey de Vaca Loa
19. Tai Xixa
20. ?
21. Xin Peldon
22. Patxi Aloz Cena
23. Xoriguer amb Ximonada
24. Quin Fum Fa
25. El Cacho del Chichi ms Chachi
26. Mao se la tu
27. Route, what route?
18 19
20
21
22
7b+
7c
7c+
7a+
7c+
7c
7a
?
?
7b+
6c
5+
5+
26
27
23
Cap de Formentor
Beach
Platia de Formentor
14 km post
coronn.com
25
Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag
approximately 100 metres after a tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many
restaurants in Port d'Pollena.
Port de Pollena
2. El Fumat
1. Ziritione
2. Apendre Tort
3. Duke (first pitch)
3b. Duquesa (two pitches*)
4. Mercury
5. Rafael Borrs
6. Na Palonia
7. Colorado
8. Old bolts
9. Project
10. Popeye
11. Hostal Paraiso
12. Citroen
13. Free Tibet
14. En Miquel est Fumat
15. Ghandi
16. Obelix
17. Obi Wan
18. El Martell de Thor
19. Vvora
North-West
30 m. Multi-pitch 80 m.
6a+
7b
6b
7b
6b+
6b+
5+
5+
5+
?
7c+
7b
7b
7a
6c
7a
6c
6a+
6c
6a+
* Route 3b; too step to abseil, walk down, hold right
9 10
1,
2
3 4 5 6 7
11 12
13 14 15 16
17 18
19
Cap de Formentor
Beach
13 km post
coronn.com
Platia de Formentor
P
2.
Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. Reaching the 13 km post,
turn left and park. Cross the road and follow a small track in the direction
of the crag.
Port de Pollena
3.1. Creveta, Gringo Star

North-East
30 m.
12
8
10
11
Mirador des
Columet
4
1
coronn.com
1. Gringo Star
2. Pammi-A
3. Cool Max
4. Frank Tapas
5. Much Azure about nothing
6. Azure like it
7. Northern Exposure
8. Over 30s Club
9. Thirteen Fourteen
10. Braveheart
11. Lion Rampant
12. Craprabo
6b+
6b+
7a+
6c+
7a+
6b+
6c+
6b+
6b+
7a
7a
6b+
Drive to Port d'Pollena and

then continue along the road
to Cap Formentor. After 5 km
you will arrive at a sightseeing
spot, "Mirador d'es Columet".
Park at the big car park and
walk back from the parking
area on a track alongside an
old water pipe. Turn right so
that you can cross the second
of two Cols on the ridge.
Cross the Col, and turn left
following the crag to the
climbing area.
Port d'Pollena
P
3.1.
3.2.
3.3.
3.2. Creveta
North-East
30 m.
9
12
See 3.3.
P
1. The boulder route

2. Nordcap
3. Lord of the Rings
4. Coordina Coordinator
5. Curset
6. Baba
4
5+
6b+
4+
4+
4
5
3.1.
3.2.
3.3.
8 9,10
11, 12
7. Camisasaque
8. Krilin
9. Hyperion
10. Hyperion Derecho
11. Els Corderos Atacan de nuevo
12. Jerita
5
6a
5
6a+
6a+
6b+
coronn.com
Drive to Port d'Pollena and then continue along the road to Cap
Formentor. After 5 km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador
d'es Columet". Park at the big car park and walk back from the
parking area on a track alongside an old water pipe. Turn right so
that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge.
Cross the Col, and turn left following the crag to the climbing area.
Port d'Pollena
3.3. Creveta
North-East
30 m.
14
25 26
Mirador des
Columet
27 28
24
13,
14
15 16 17
13. Hussein
14. Terapia de Grupo
15. Ca magre, Pues
16. Ja me Pagars
17. Lastralopithecus
18. 150 Sipies
19. Rcords de Bunyola
20.. El Sant Crist
18 19 20
6c
6b+
6a+
6c
6c
6a
6a+
6.a+
21
22
3.1.
3.2.
3.3.
23
21. Som-hi
22. Ball o'en Banyeta Verda
23. Somni Bucollic
24. Glckspitz
25. Estic fins u collons
26. Lechtturm
27. Just married
28. Angsthase
6a
6b
6a+
4+
6a+
6b+
6b+
5+
coronn.com
Drive to Port d'Pollena and then continue along the road to Cap
Formentor. After 5 km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador
d'es Columet". Park at the big car park and walk back from the
parking area on a track alongside an old water pipe. Turn right so
that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge.
Cross the Col, and turn left following the crag to the climbing area.
Port d'Pollena
4. Boquer
1?
2?
3?
4?
5?
6 Roco d'U Trampo
7?
8?
9?
10 ?
N 39 55.055
EO 03 04.986
All point of the compass
A couple up to 50 m.
11
10
30
8 7
12
29
28
1
2
3
15
16
6c+
6b
3
4+
4+
6c
7b
7b+
6b+
6b
14
13
27
11 +
12 ?
13 ?
14 La Creu
15 ? Neads gear
16 ?
17 ?
18 ?
19 ?
20 ?
21 ?
22 L'Aguila Neads gear
23 L'Aguila direct
24 Seconda stella a destra
25 ?
26 ?
27 ?
28 Bicepmania
29 ?
30 ?
6a+
8a
6a
5+
4
8a
6a+
6a
5+
6b
5+
5,4,4+
5+,4,4+
7c
6b+
6a+
5+
6b+
5
4
The crags are closed.

Climbing is prohibited.
19 18 17
20
26
25 24 23 22
21
May 2007
P
coronn.com
Drive to Port d'Pollena and continue passing the village along the big bypass
road in the direction of Cap Formentor. On this road you will reach a tree-lined
avenue to the right Turn left in the roundabout and park. Walk on the trackmarkt
with Cami de Cala Bquer that passes a farm and continues into the valley.
A beautiful unusual area ideal for families. Unfortunately the crag is closed for
climbing for now, bolts has on some parts been removed, check with the tourist
information in the village to get the latest information.
Port d'Pollena
Direction
Pollena
5.1. Les Perxes, Cueva

North
25 m.
6b
6c
7a+
8b
8b+
8b+
8c+
8c
8b+
8a+
7b
7a+
7c+
8a+
8c
?
7c+
8c+
8a
7c
8a
7c
?
7b+
7c+
5
12
10
8
5,6
3
1
9
11,
12
13 14
15
16
21
22 23 24
25

Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and
"Caimari". The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get
there, park your car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are
leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road signposted
to "Col ds Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass
a 7km post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that
point. Take the second one and after 200 meters the crag
will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue with car out of
Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend,
continue on a well marked footpath signpost for Santuari de
LLUC and you reach the crag after about 300 metres.
Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three
hairpin bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay,
there is on to the right of the road, one more to the left.
Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a
fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the
left about 100 metres to reach the crag.
Caimari
P
2
1-
21
-V
PM
-1
13
2
-V
Selva
coronn.com
20
17 18 19
PM213
1. Less purchase
2. Petit Poi
3. Ball de Bot
4. Empire State
5. Peu deret
6. Comando Madrid
7. Odissy
8. American Express
9. Master hit
10. M&Ms
11. Calgao
12. Es Penjat
13. Central route
14. A Vista de Pajaro
15. Guiris go home
16. Project
17. Motorhead
18. Unknown
19. Terrorvisin
20. Toten Hosen
21. Bon apetit
22. Penthouse
23. Penthouse right-hand
24. Hoodoo Gurus
25. Picados
PM
Direction
Campanet
5.2. Hairpin Wall

N 39 46.734
EO 02 53.883
East
25 m.
Hairpin bend on
road
1. Curving Groove
2. Central
3. Right
4. The hard one
5. The Blob
6. The Blob right-hand
7. The Blob indirect
8. Pocket
9. Pocket Right
10. Poor
5
5+
5
7a
6c
6b
5+
6a+
6a
6b+
10
8,
9
23
5,
6
coronn.com
Caimari
P
2
121
-V
PM
PM213
Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area
has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your car at the outskirts of
Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road
signposted to "Col ds Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km
post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second
one and after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue
with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend, continue
on a well marked footpath signpost for Santuari de LLUC and you reach the
crag after about 300 metres.
Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin bends,
before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is on to the right of the
road, one more to the left. Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend,
cross a fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the left about
100 metres to reach the crag.
-1
13
Selva
-V
PM
Direction
Campanet
5.3. Muro de Caimari
1. Nosferatu
2. Paparazzi
3. Transfuga
4. Suquet
5. A la Fresca
6. Mantis
7. Lucas
East
20 m.
6 7
10
6c
6b+
6b+
6b
6a
6a
6b
8. Mescalina
9. El Calvario del Enano
10. Dos Bidedos y un Destino
11. Doctor Maligno
12. Capitan Gotera
13. El Sonido de la Gaita
14. Last route
11 12
13
coronn.com
14
Caimari
P
2
121
-V
PM
PM213
Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari".
The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your
car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then
continue by foot on the road signposted to "Col ds Barraca".
After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km post on the right. Two
tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and
after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall;
Continue with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first
hairpin bend, continue on a well marked footpath signpost for
Santuari de LLUC and you reach the crag after about 300 metres.
Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin
bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is
on to the right of the road, one more to the left. Continue by foot.
Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a fenceusing a stile and
then direct follow a small track to the left about 100 metres to
reach the crag.
6b
6c
6c+
7b
6c+
6b
?
-1
13
Selva
-V
PM
Direction
Campanet
6. Alar, Roadmap
6.1.

Drive to Alar. As with all
villages on Mallorca this one is
congested but if you find and
follow the signposts to "Castillo
de Alar" you will find the
narrow road with many hairpins
that leads you to the village (a
couple of houses). Next to the
restaurant you will find a big car
park and the long and step walk
from here to the crag is
recommended. Please dont
use the road that leads from
the Restaurant towards the
crag, walk back and take the
track instead. It is also possible
to continue on a small rough
road that turns of to the left just
before the restaurant and which
leads to a parking spot closer
to the crag.
Extraordinarily beautiful scenery
and a amazing crag make Alar
a special place. Bring lots of
water. On the top of the crag
you will find a Chapel and a
small restaurant where you can
buy lunch, refreshments or
some chocolate. .
Dont use this part

of the road!
Restaurant
-2
ig
Pu
de
Pujol
6.3.
10
C.
Call
PM
de
1
-21
PM
Alar
-2
02
-2
-V
PM
coronn.com
6.2.
Information that we have from a

Spanish web site;
Castell dAlaro is an entirely private
property. Ask for prior permission to
climb on castell_alaro@hotmail.com.
It is essential that an agreed line is
taken up to the rock and that it is agreed
that the owners are not
responsible in case of an accident.
Send name, passport number and
address for all climbers. Send a
telephone number and give the dates
that you will be climbing here. Bring
your passport when you go to Alar.
6.1. Alar
West
30 m.
2 3 4
10
13
11
12
1. Glue-ins
2. ?
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?
6. Still a project?
7. Esteban
8. Amigos Para Siempre?
coronn.com
7b+
7b
7a
6c
6a
7b
7b+
7c+
9. Foam party
10. Murete Ya!
11. Project
12. Zatropeck
13. Old bolts
14. Aferra el Tul
15. Mata Guiris
16. No Res
15 16
14
17
7c
7c
?
7c
7b
6c
7a+
7a+
18
19
20
22
21
17. Frit
18. Sobrassada
19. Bulge by-pass
20. :)Snowboard
21. Fido-dido
22. Vagon roll
23. Las Mallas de Cristo
24. Hola qu Tal
6a
5
6a+
5+
6a
4+
5
6a
23 24
6.2. Alar
st
ee
West
25 m. Multi-pitch up to 70 m.
Sta
ss
inle
e
sw
dis
a
cobr
6
7
10
1
2
coronn.com
5, 6, 7
9,10
1. ?
2. ?
3. Three-pitcher
4. Lute
5. Superchorrera access
6. Superchorrera
7. XTR
8. Therapy
9. Snchez
10. Magnum
5a
6b
6c, 6c, 6b
7a
6a
7b
7a+
7b
?
7c, 6a, 6b
6.3. Alar
West
30 m.
1. ?
2. ?
3. ?
4. Hob nops
5. Buf!
6. Top Pa Ti
7. Cloncin
8. Pilar
9. Project
10. ?
11. ?
12. ?
13. ?
14. Pincha Uvas
15. Kiko
16. Xavier
17. Lone 7c
1 and 2
10
coronn.com
11
12
13
14
15
16 and 17
6b
6c
8a
6c+
7a
7a+
7b
7b
?
6c
6b+
6c
6a+
5+, 7b+
6a
7a+
7c
7.1. Fraguel

Drive from Bunyola in the
direction of Santa Maria. Turn
left as you leave the village,
about 200 meters before a bar
on the your left-hand side of the
road. Follow this road, which at
times is of poor standard,
through many hairpin bends.
Park on the side of the road just
after you have passed a 5 km
post.
Follow the track, turn left into
the bushes. Cross a charcoal pit
and continue. Hold right and use
the rope to scramble down.
Finally turn right and follow the
track to the crag.
North-West
30 m.
10
26
18
17 19
15
1112 13
Route 1 and 2
23
14
coronn.com
6a
6a
6b
6a
6c+, 6c
6b+, 6c
7a+
7b
6a+
10. El Terrat
11. Caca de Colores
12. Rosa de Sanatorio
13. Fakir
14. Flake and Groove
15. Psycho Killer
16. Jungle hop
17. Salpicn de Menisco
18. Solo Sex
19. Orange Scoop Right
20. Grey streak
21. Goo Goo Mack
22. Le Gorille a une Bonne Mine
23. Amnesia
24. Football fan
25. Shabada
26. Ramadn
6b
7a+
7b+
6c
5+
6c+
7a+
8a
8a
8b+
8b
8a
7c
8b+
8a
8a+
8a
21
6
5
1. Left pillar
2. Pastel de Ochoce
3. Ochobe Mas
4. Vuit se mes
5. Ojo Climico
6. 666
7. Tabasco
8. Harissa
9. Pink Panther
9,
10
PM
22
Bunyola
PM202
20
24
C711
16
25
21
Direction
Santa Maria
P
5 km post
7.2. Fraguel
North-West
30 m.
30
?
8b
7b+
8a
7b
7b+
6c+,7b+, 8c+
8a+
8b+
7c+
38
39,
40
41 42
43,
44
37. Miguel and the test tube babies

38. Aloha from Hell
39. Glasnost
40. Tte de Pene
41. El ltimo Vals
42. Rock punk
43. Cuencamelo
44. On es lavi
45. Pastanaga Punyetera
46. Setebe el Plumero
47. Juan Palomo
45
46
7c+
7c
7b
7c+
7c+
7c+
7c
7b+
8a
7b+
8a
47
Bunyola
PM202
27. Project
28. French kiss
29. Terre dAdventure
30. Terre dAdventure Plus
31. Fes lo que Puguis
32. Miss Palma
33. Bodo dodo
34. Humanoide
35. No name
36. Pantano boas
36 37
29,31 32 33 34 35
30
21
28
Drive from Bunyola in the direction of Santa Maria. Turn

left as you leave the village, about 200 meters before a
bar on the your left-hand side of the road. Follow this road,
which at times is of poor standard, through many hairpin
bends. Park on the side of the road just after you have
passed a 5 km post.
Follow the track, turn left into the bushes. Cross a charcoal
pit and continue. Hold right and use the rope to scramble
down. Finally turn right and follow the track to the crag.
PM
27
44
C711
39
coronn.com
Direction
Santa Maria
P
5 km post
7.3. Fraguel
North-West
20 m.
52
53
54
55
56
57
Bunyola, view from the summit of Alqueria
51
50
coronn.com
Drive from Bunyola in the direction of Santa

Maria. Turn left as you leave the village, about
200 meters before a bar on the your left-hand
side of the road. Follow this road, which at times
is of poor standard, through many hairpin bends.
Park on the side of the road just after you have
passed a 5 km post.
Follow the track, turn left into the bushes. Cross
a charcoal pit and continue. Hold right and use
the rope to scramble down. Finally turn right and
follow the track to the crag.

21
7c+
6c
6b+
6a+
6a
6b+
7b+
7b
6b+
6a
4+
PM
48. Cotorrot
49. Cous-Cous
50. Esto no es Calvi
51. Sementir
52. Comando Rasta
53. Hard finish
54. Peep shows Garriga
55. Marmade
56. Tofol
57. Churro Pino
58. Chris line
Bunyola
PM202
49
C711
48
58
Direction
Santa Maria
P
5 km post
8. Es Queixal
North-West
20 m. Multi pitch 80 m.
Restaurant
P
P
Es Queixal
The routes are, from left to right:
1. Es queixal corcat
2. Sa travessa des Queixal
3. Gelat i Desrinyonat
4. Joses show
5. Pepa Pattisier
6. Rintintn
7. Santas Pascuas
8. Canta y no LLores
6a+x3
6b
6a+
7a+
6c
6b
5+
6a
At the top/left-hand side (SouthWest) there is three short routes,

from left to right;
1. Los tuberculosos
2. Es Mirador
3. Id a qu Esperes
coronn.com
5+
5+
6a+

From Gorg Blau (see crag 9.)and
the Bar in the crossroad. Follow
signpost for Cala Tuent/Sa
Calobra. After a road with endless
hairpins on a narrow road you
finally arrives to Cala Tuent and
the restaurant. Take a long walk,
after you have passed the Villa
SAvenc, follow a vague or invisible
track in the direction of the Col to
the right side of Es Queixal.
Scramble up the steep slope to
reach the crag. A beautiful crag,
and a nice atmosphere but it is a
very long trip for 8 routes.
Take the Bus?
When we visit the area a tourist
bus on its way from Sa Calobra
was laying in a steep sloop beside
the road!
9. Gorg Blau, Keymap
71
C711
On the road from Sller to Port de Sller

you will find a road to the right with
signpost for Lluc/Pollena. Follow this
road, C-710, winding up in the direction of
Serre de Torrelles. As you reach the first
tunnel, at a sightseeing point named Coll the
Pulg Major you will find the first of these crag,
Can Nyic. Park just before the tunnel and follow
a track up to the crag (to the left). Continue on
the same road, pass a couple of lakes and
another tunnel. As you arrive to another lake
where the road runs just beside the lake to its
end where you will find a car park just before
the tunnel you find the second crag, SAigo
Blava. We dont have any Topos or route
information on this one but the routes are hard
C 710
Sller
A-
Direction
Sa Calobra
41
21
Bar
on a step crag. To reach the crag, park, continue

on the road for the dam (restricted area) and
follow a vague track to crag. The picture is taken
from the car park.
To find the last crag, the main sectors of Gorg
Blau, continue trough the tunnel, after about 6700 metres you will arrive to a Bar and a big
aqueduct over the road. Park on the opposite
side of the bar on a big lay-by to a gravelled
road that leads to the crags. Walk along the
fence and pass this on the left side and then
continue on the gravelled road (restricted area).
You can also continue on the road in the direction
of Lluc, in the first bend to the left, turn right and
follow a track direct up to a visible beautiful
track.
Direction
Lluc
41
-21
MA
coronn.com
P
Embassament
das Gorg Blau
Direction
Sller
The crag SAigo Blava, we dont have any information about

the route names or grades.
9.1. Gorg Blau, Es Torrente

East
30 m.
18
15
8 9 10
11 12
13 14
3 4
1. Aixo es LHabana
2. The blank wall
3. Estreny els Dits
4. Lolas
5. Only for women
6. Luisa en la Repisa
7. Luisa me Avisa
8. Sa Primavera
9. Akkupunktur
coronn.com
6,
7
6b+
?
7b
6c+
6b+
5
6a
6c+
7a+
10. La Noche me Confunde

11. Ni Guibo Ni Bloco
12. Na Taca
13. Sa Festa
14. Natiu
15. SEntreforc
16. Mr. Magu
17. Karakorum
18. Sliva
7b
7c+
8a
7c
8b
8b+
8a+
7c
8b
16
17
9.2. Plaques
West, North-West
30 m.
5 6 7
11
8
12
9
10
2,
3
1. Tuinki yunki
2. Joan Petit
3. Sa Canal
4. Fill de Puta
5. ?
6. Farina de Fora
7. Chiringuito
8. SEscorpi
coronn.com
7c
6b+
6b
7a
7a+
7b
6c+
6b+
9. Sa Taranta
10. Mala Llet Forastera
11. ?
12. Mort de Fam
13. Parkinson
14. ?
15. Hay, Hay!
16. ?
7b+
8a
7a
7a+
6c
6b+
7c+
4
13 14
15 16
9.3. Plaques and des Cable

West, North-West
30 m.
26
23
29
10 m
17
19 20 21
16
22,
23
27
18
24
25
17. ?
18. Gueropa
19. Airbus
20. ?
21. Bart Simpson
22. Lisa Limson
23. ?
24. Project
coronn.com
7a
7a
7b
7c
7b
6b+
5
?
25. Chill Out

26. Gorg Blau
27. Project
28. La Misin
29. Tot s.com
30. Sa Fosca
31. No Badis
32. Long Beach
7a, 8a+
7a,7b+,7c+
?
7a, 8b+
8b+, ?
7a, 8c
6c+, 8b+
8a+
28 30 31
32
Above; Left, view from Ermita de Beetlem, Right, Beach, Palma. Under; Left, view from car park to Betlem, Right, Puig de Garrafa
Above; Left, beautiful crag, Right, view from El Calo. Under; Left, view from Miradords Columet, Right, Sa Gubia, Princesa
10. Can Nyic

N 39 47.500
EO 02 46.568
North-West
30 m.
ut
e
6c+
4+
6c
7a+
6a+
6b
6c
7b+
7c
On the way from car park to the crag,

from left to the right;
10. Agent Orange
8a+
11. Impossible
?
12. Thin Seam
7b
13. Max Cady
7c
coronn.com
10 to 13
Tunnel
P
P
6
7
Direction
Sller
8
9

0
Drive along the 710 from Sller in the direction

of Pollena. After 10 km you will reach the first
tunnel. Park before reaching the tunnel. Follow
a track up to the left of the tunnel to reach the
crag. On the way up to the crag you will pass four
routes that are not on this TOPO. Leave your car
open, there have been breakins.
71
1. Bernadi Company
2. Nycinyatos
3. Borinot
4. Ho Passam Pillo
5. Bona Nyic
6. Molins de Paper
7. Tutup
8. Na Faresta
9. S'Horabaixa
Ro
C711
40 meter to the left.
C710
Sller
11. Port Sller
Hotel
N 39 48.207
EO 02 41.698
North-West
30 m.
18
Cave Cova des Cingles,

far left.
15
21
4
16
5
6
150 meters
78
9 10
11
12 13
14,15
17,
18
19
22 23
50 meters
3,4,5
1. Miguelin el politoxicmano
2. Cristo el transexual
3. Repoman
4. Alliens
5. El folla-guris
6. Doris
7. La Machado
8. Blobland
9 .Bon vi
10 .Els salvatges
20,
21
6c
7a
8a
6b
6a
7b
7c
6c
6a
6b
11. Sun
12. Sea
13. Sand
14. Dit I Fet
15. Virgin
16. ?
17. Fantomas
18. Ficalito
19. Super 3
20. Ja son five
6c
6b
6a
7a
8a+
?
7b
7c
7b
6c+
21. Babu Mac

22. Wall left
23. Wall right
24. Picnic left
25. Picnic
26. Picnic centre
27. Picnic right
6b+
6c
6b
6c
6b+
6c
7a
26
25 27
24
coronn.com
On the road from Palma to Sller you can choose to take a tunnel
to save time, the cost for this is Euro 4.25 (2007) single way! Drive
in to Port Sller and follow the seafront. The "main" road splits into
a wider road and two "No entry" signes appear. Turn sharp right
(onto Cami de Cingle) and take the narrow road up the hill. Shortly
after the bar on your left there is a new luxurious hotel. Park outside
the bar and take the footpath down to the crag.
Port Sller
The
bay
12.1. Valldemossa, Roadside

South, South-West
15 m.
12.3.
12.2.
P
12.4.
12.1.
13-
V1
PM
Road
Road
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
Valldemossa
13-
V1
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa.

From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass
the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take
the next turning to the right, signposted Port
d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and
you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the
road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park
in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back
150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you
pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and
3, which are not included in this TOPO. We
recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
PM
coronn.com
10
4
4
4
6a
6a+
6a+
6b
5+
6b
C7
1. Izqauierdo (not on the TOPO)

2. Centro (not on the TOPO)
3. Derecho (not on the TOPO)
4. Zurdo
5. Rompededos
6. Prfido Encanto
7. Triplet Derecho
8. Recto Cresta
9. Derecho Castilla
111
PM
12.2. Valldemossa
South-West
25 m.
1
2
1. Left Edge
2. Kiko
3. Scooped Runnel
4. Project
5. Palmolive
6. Intrpido
7. Short crack
8. Via des Clau
9. El Jubilado
10. Suphi
11. Fito
12. El Jubilado direct
13. Pepa
14. Pepino
15. Sostre den Burot
16. Sostre den Burot direct
17. Dali
14
3,
4
6b
6b
6b
?
7b
6c
7a
6b
5
6a
6b+
6b+
6a+
6b+
6c+
7a+
5+
13,
10 11 12 14
15
16 17
Road
10
C7
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
Valldemossa
1
13-
V1
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa.

From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass
the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take
the next turning to the right, signposted Port
d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and
you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the
road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park
in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back
150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you
pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and
3, which are not included in this TOPO. We
recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
PM
coronn.com
5,
6
111
PM
12.3. Valldemossa
South-West
30 m.
12.3.
12.2.
P
10
3
12.4.
5
12.1.
3,4 5,6
15
20
21 22
16, 18,
17 19
6a
7a+
6c+
6b+
6c+
6c
7a
6c
6b+
5+
5+
12. Shorty
13. Poor Groove
14. Thin Wall
15. Jarcha
16. Why not
17. The crack
18. Poor Eliminate
19. Arroz con Leche
20. Right-hand crack
21. Kirsten
22. Kirsten II
14
13-
7b
7c
7c
6b+
7a
7a+
5+
6b+
6a
6a
6b+
13
V1
1. Scoop left
2. Rusty
3. Bulging Wall
4. Central flake
5. Vall-de-mega
6. Wall Eliminate
7. Chimenea
8. Central right
9. Spanky
10. Lanky
11. Average
9 10 11
12
PM

10
C7
Valldemossa
13-
V1
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
PM
coronn.com
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive

towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take the
next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags
are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay
just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way,
you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included
in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
111
PM
12.4. Valldemossa
South-West
20 m.
1. Roof route left

2. Roof route right
3. Fisura
4. Under Waikiki
5. Waikiki
6. Chimenea
7a
6c+
5
6c+
7b
6a
1
2
3
4

10
C7
Port d'Valldemossa
(Se Marina)
V
PM
coronn.com
Valldemossa
-1
113
Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive

towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sller, and take the
next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa.
Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags
are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay
just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way,
you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included
in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.
111
PM
13.1. Sestrt
N 39 41.536
EO 02 37.942
North
25 m.
15
6
17,
18
14,
15
To
The left hand side of the crag

collapsed in January 2005. The rock
fall destroyed all routes.
nt
coronn.com
13.2.
11
sa
Three more routes to the left of the

rockfall, from left to right, 8a, 7b+ and a
project.
6 7, 9
10
8
13
os
13.1.

Drive from Palma in the direction of
Valldemossa. 4 km after you have
passed the village of S'Egleita you
pass a 14km milestone by the
roadside. On the left you will find a
lay-bay close to a bridge over a dry
riverbed (3,2 km before Valldemossa).
Park here and follow a track through
the trees. You will pass some small
bouldering crags (grades is not
covered in the Topos) after 250
metres, turn left after these and make
your way to the crag. The crag is an
old quarry and the routes are therefore
numbered which makes route finding
easy. Many routes are chipped.
P
PM-111
6b+
?
7c
7c
7a
7a+
7a+
6c
5
12
em
lld
10. Buocracia
11. Staples
12. Casi
13. Maximo Riesgo
14. La Gigante Verde
15. Directe Verde
16. Bomber Torrat
17. Left line
18. Right line
10
Va
1 2
13 12 11
de
20 19 18 17
23
?
8a+
8a,8b+
8a
7b+
7b
8a
7a+
7c+
Direction
Valldemossa
rre
6 5
1. Rock-fall arete
2. Head Hunter
3. Tatoo
4. Defcon One
5. Si yo fuera presidente
6. Odio a cobi
7. Txino tzapa
8. El sudaca
9. Tetrix
16
13.3.
13.4.
Direction
S'Egleita
n
rre
To
13.3. Sestrt, Cuarentn
td
Drive from Palma in the direction

of Valldemossa. 4 km after you
have passed the village of
S'Egleita you pass a 14km
milestone by the roadside. On
the left you will find a lay-bay
close to a bridge over a dry
riverbed (3,2 km before
Valldemossa). Park here, cross
the road and follow a track just
beside the river down to the
crags.
eV
West
25 m.
Direction
Valldemossa
all
s
mo
de
sa
13.2.
13.1.
PM-111
13.3.
13.4.
10
14
Direction
S'Egleita
1
2
3
5 6
78
10,
11
12
13,
14
coronn.com
1. Mexicans forever
2. Kum Laude
3. ?
4. Busibus
5. Red Stain
6. Part Forana
7. Movimiento Sexy
8. Tight slab
9. Menage Trois
10. Eliminate
11. Virgin
12. Las Cagao
13. ?
14. ?
6c
7a+
?
6c+
6b+
5+
5+
6a
6a+
5+
6a
5
5
5
13.4. Sestrt
Sector Mario, Pipe and Pasin
N 39 41.454
EO 02 38.175
West
30 m.
1
20 m.
Direction
Valldemossa
nt
rre
de
13.2.
sa
os
em
lld
Va
4+
5
4+
4+
5
4+
5+
5+
7
8
To
1. Mario Moreno II
2. Mario Moreno
3. Zarzamora
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
7. Pezn
8. Quarried Wall
4 5
13.1.
P
1
2
3
coronn.com
5,
6
1. El Bandido de un Brazo
2. El Culo
3. Con el Culo al Aire
4. Variant
5. Pasin interminable
6. Pasin Oculta
6a
5
5+
5+
5
4+

Valldemossa. 4 km after you have passed
the village of S'Egleita you pass a 14km
milestone by the roadside. On the left you
will find a lay-bay close to a bridge over
a dry riverbed (3,2 km before
Valldemossa). Park here, cross the road
and follow a track just beside the river
down to the crags. Sector Mario is the
first one you reach with three routes.
Shortly after the Pipe sector with for more
routes and finally, slightly up behind Pipe,
the sector Pasin with five routes.
PM-111
13.3.
13.4.
Direction
S'Egleita
14. Sa Gubia, Keymap

Drive from Palma in the direction of Sller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after
a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, by a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross
the road just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which
shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass
two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next
to the river bed to the crag.
Track to the summit
of Alqueria (609 m)
Direction
Sller
14.5.
14.3.
14.2.
14.4.
Restaurant
Can Penasso
nt
rre
To
de
Don't use this

footpath !!
qu
l
SA
at
La
Bi
an
ca
Direction
Palma
coronn.com
10
-2
PM
Bunyola
P
uat
Alq bed
de Sry river
nt
rre a d
To ually
Us
C-711
14.1.
La
Don't use this

footpath !!
Bi
an
ca
14.1.1. Sa Gubia
Left part of Pares dels Coloms
South-East
40 m.
10
6
4
Route number 1 to 3
8 9,
10
14 15
11 12
13
(no TOPO)
1 Pecho lata (no TOPO)

2 Amor Brujo (no TOPO)
3 Papa Moreno (no TOPO)
4 Peur impossible
5 Es Poal
6 Esto no es Quinto
7 Sal de arenal
8 Tres menos cuarto
9 Front 242
10 Algo salvage
coronn.com
6b+
6b,6a+
6b
5,7a
6b
7a+
6c
7b+
7b+
6b
11 Pin Fijo
12 Silo s no vengo
13 Perque triunfin els cannalas
14 Pesadilla final
15 Peladora
7b+
6c
6b+
6a+
6c
14.1.2. Sa Gubia
16. Humi
17. Mes rapit suc el vent
18. Pellojo de tiburon
19. Seis pelas
20. Decadencia corporal
21. Comechocos
22. Tao
23. Leather face
Right part of Pares dels Coloms

South-East
40 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m.
28
29
31
26
16
24
17
18
19
20 21
22 23
coronn.com
27 28 30
25,
26
6a+
6a
7a
6a,6c
6c,7b+
6b+
6b,6c+
7a+,6c+
24. Pasteles de Isabel

25. Gay power
26. Vol de nuit
27. Tia melis
28. Estricnina
29. Chungui chunguez
30. Danzomania
31. Guatn
7b,6c+
7a+
6b
6a, 6a
5, 5+,5
5,6c
5+,6a+,6a+
5+,6a
14.2. Sa Gubia
1. Gubia normal
2. Quan es fa Fec
3. Gubia variante
4. Chitas marchitas
5. Charly Danone
6. Jdete y Baila
7. Fill de ric
8. Puta Perro
9. La Ley del Deseo
10. Sonrisa vertical
11. The master
12. Polla Bopa
13. Mejico Lindo
14. Variant
15. ?
16. ?
17. Oasis (38 m!)
18. ?
19. Via des los Bomberos
20. Hambre Eterna
21. Princessa
22. Variant
23. Placa Aspera
24. Tierra al Reves
25. Moco de Pravo
26. Foracorda
27. Idem
28. De Gorrones hasta los Cojones
29. Steep Groove
30. Sexo Debil
Gubia Normal, Bomberos, Princesa, Espaol

West, North-West
Multi pitch up to 200 m.
28
26
29
13
12
24
18
25
27
37
23
1,2
3
4
5 6
9,
10
1114
15
18,20
1719
16
21 22
38
30
31
32
33
34
35
41
36
39
coronn.com
40
31. Easy slab

32. Cannabis variant
33. Cannabis in Vitro
34. Pataje Espaol
35. El jardin de la Abuela
36. Tantum Ergo
37. Mi pichina
38. Miju
39. Caperucita Roja
40. Groove
41. Variant
2+,4+,3+,
3+, 4+,3,3
2+,5,5,5
4+
6b+
7a+
6b+
6a
6a+
5,5,4+,5
5,6a
5+,6a
5+,6a
5+,6a+
5
4+,6a
4+,6a
6a+
6c
6a,6a+, 6a,6b
6b
6a,6c,5,6a,5
6b+,6a
6a+
6a+
7b+
8b
7b+
8a
7a
4,6a+,6b+,
6b,6b
4
4
4
4+
5
4+
7b
7b+
6b
6a
6b
14.3. Sa Gubia
1. To Kiski'm'toca
2. Fina y Segura
3. Pringa mete el dedo
4. La isla Bonita
5. Variant
6. Placa Nuevo
7. Franceces
8. Phantasmagoria
9. Bongo Bongo
10. Gigolo
11. Why!
12. Cortocircuito
13. Zaragay
14. Agratte Maldito
Isla Bonita, Why

South
4
5
6c+
6b
6b
6b+,4,6a+
6a
5+,6b
6a,5,6c
7a+
7a+
7b
6b+
6b
6a
7b+
14
10
13
34
5
6 7
coronn.com
8
9
10,
11
12,
13
14.4. Sa Gubia
N 39 41.594
EO 02 40.396
Sector Exalibur and Silicona

South
30 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m.
1. KGB
2. Na Guarra
3. Excalibur
4. No Haces ms Grado
porque Eres Enado
5. Trampera Matinera
6. Bofetadas de Placer
7. pera prima
8. Charismatic
9. Hot consuela
10. Horrible Belleza
11. Ingleses
10
6c+
6a
6a,6a,6b
10
6c+
6b
7b+
6a+
6c
6c+
7a
6b+
78
9,
10,
11
5
9
8
6
2
3, 4,
7 5
11
coronn.com
4
Silicona
1. Hawaii 5-0
2. Silicona
3. Lulu
4. Proteina vegetal
5. Totom fa el que Vol
6. Resaca
7. Gran Pis
8. Rustic Pogo
9. ?
10. Familia iscariote
11. Familia variante
4+
6b+
6a+
6a
6a+
6a+
6b
6b+
6a+
6a
6b
11
14.5. Sa Gubia, Cara Oeste

1. Bush rit et Massacre
2. Interval training
3. Gato Negro
4. Scaladores en perdicin
5. Lluvia providencial
6. Escaladores en la Niebla
7. Los colores de la Caliza
8. Le Lapin en dcomposition
9. Voyages dans leau de ...
10. Tres estrellas
N 39 41.822
EO 02 40.414
West
7a+
7a+
7a+
7c
7a+,7b
6b,6c+,6b+,6c+
7b,7b,7a+,6c+
6b,7b,7c/Ao or 8a,7a+
7c/8a,7b,7c/8a,7a
5,7c,7c,7a
4
5
6
7
8
coronn.com
9 10
View over Cara Oeste. A long

approach, best way is to take the road
that leads to the summit of Alqueria (pass
the bar by foot and continue about 1 km, then
turn left and follow a gravelled road). The wall is
great, and there is hundreds of Tufas. However,
since the wall is very big, we have marked black
field with grey colour since they help you best to find the
routes. The approach take 1 to 1,5 hours if you move fast.
15. Can Ortigues

Drive from Andratx on road C-710 in the
direction of Estellencs, Sller. Pass a 103
kilometres post just after a hairpin bend
and after the next hairpin, park on a big
lay-bay. The crag is just above the laybay but continue by foot about 50 metres
down the road and you will find a good
track to reach the track.
N 39 37.465
EO 02 25.465
West
25 m.
11
1,2. 25 metres.
coronn.com
14 15 16
17
1. Los abajo firmantes

2. Balrog
3. No siento las Piernas
4. Hobbiton
5. Quin Clau
6. Ultimos Dias de la vtima
7. Regina
8. Barbol
9. La Ley de la Frontera
10. La Tuya y la mia
11. Armageddon
12. ?
13. Puercoespin
14. Tierra Media
15. Club Privado, Project
16. Guancho
17. ?
18. Area de Servicio
18
6a+
6b+
6a+
4
5c
6b
7a
5+
5+
6a
6a
5
6a
6c
?
6c
?
4+
6 7
13
71
8,
9
10, 12
11
C-
103 km
16.1. Piug de Garrafa

N 39 33.681
EO 02 25.478
Andratx
North-West
20 m.
Coll
DAndritxol
2,
3
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
4
5
1. Lucas
2. Colmena
3. Ella ya no vive aqui
4. Front
5. Cuatre Pichos
6. ?
7. ?
8. The crack
6a+
6b+
6a+
6c
6b
?
?
6c+
coronn.com
6
7
30-40 metres to 16.2.
16.1.

Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on
road PM-1. Continue on Ma-1C and follow signs
for Andratx. About 2-2,5 kilometres after the
second tunnel, at Coll dAndritxol, a smaller
asphalt road turns sharp right (in opposite
direction) just before a signpost for Port dAndratx
/Sant Elm. Turn right and follow this road for
100 metres. Park out of the road since large
lorries is passing for fetching water in the big
reservoir just by the road side. From here
you will see the crags.
Pass a fence just to the right of
the gate and follow a gravelled
road to its end. Take the track
to the left for 16.1. and 16.2.,
to the right for 16.3. and 16.4.
16.2.
16.3.
P P
16.4.

North-West
20 m.
Andratx
Coll
DAndritxol
19
9 10
11 12 13
9. Dona Simena
10. Polvaron
11. Ilegales
12. Legado
13. Cala Bruix
14. ?
15. ?
16. El Canto del Loco
17. Camino al Infierno
18. Bufon
19. Endemicus
20. Vampiro
21. Vampiresa
22. Macaco
23. Puta girl
24. Erectus
14
15
5
6a
7a+
7b
6a
7a
6b+
6c
7b
6b
6c
6b+
6b
6a
6a+
coronn.com
16
20
21
22
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
23
17 18
24
16.1.

Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on road PM1. Continue on Ma-1C and follow signs for Andratx. About
2-2,5 kilometres after the second tunnel, at Coll dAndritxol,
a smaller asphalt road turns sharp right (in opposite direction)
just before a signpost for Port dAndratx /Sant Elm. Turn
right and follow this road for 100 metres. Park out of the
road since large lorries is passing for fetching water in
the big reservoir just by the road side. From here
16.2.
16.3.
P P
16.4.

N 39 33.586
EO 02 25.528
Andratx
North-West
25 m.
4
Coll
DAndritxol
4,
5
1
10
1. Alacran
2. Teresetes
3. Thin Wall
4. ?
5. Chorrera
6. ?
7. ?
8. Chpamela
9. Chpamela Derecha
10. Orange Recess
11. ?
12. ?
13. Soledad
14. Dios No Puedo
5+
6b+
7b
7c
7a
7b
7b+
6b+
6a
8a+
7c
7b
6c
6b
coronn.com
11
12
2 3
7
8
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
13
14
Track to 16.4.
16.1.

16.2.
16.3.
P P
16.4.

N 39 33.554
EO 02 25.652
Andratx
South
25 m.
Coll
DAndritxol
1. Lcifer
2. Metllica
3. Snoopy
4. Mafalda
5. Scooby Doo
6. ?
7. The Wall
8. ?
9. ?
10. Stairway to Heaven
6a
6a
5
5
6a
4
5+
4+
4+
6b+
coronn.com
Signpost for
Port dAndratx,
Sant Elm
9
16.1.
10, further right

16.2.
16.3.
P P
16.4.
17. Santa Pona
Direction
Andratx
N 39 30.478
EO 02 28.962
1,
2 3
North, North-West
20 m.
Ma-1
Direction
Palma

yJ
me
au
ta P
on
ida
en
Av
e
l R
de
va
No
San
9
2
P
3
1. Flake route
2. Variant
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
7. ? (Neads gear)
8. The scoop
9. ?
6a
6b+
7b
7a+
7a+
6c+
6a
7b
7b+
coronn.com
6 7
8,
9
Avenida de Nova Santa Pona
P P
School
Calle de Na Morisca
Casa Pastorers
Avenida del
Drive from Palma in the

direction of Andratx on
road Ma-1. Turn for Santa
Pona. In the first
roundabout, turn left and
follow signpost for Golf.
Continue, pass two
roundabouts and in the
third, turn left and park on
a car park just by a school.
Follow the track up to the
crag that you can see
from the car park.
Not the best crag, and

neither a great view. If you
stay in the village it can
be a nice crag for the
evening though.
18. Calvi
West
25 m.
21
16,
17,
18
3,4
1. ?
2. ?
3. Seman Semidesnatado
4. Vuelo sin Moto
5. Windjamer
6. No Cal Senior fiscal
7. Chanso
8. Perona
9. Tirili
10. Saque mate
11. Jota jota
12. Tu polla me enrolla
13. Batakalofis
14. Caguerra perpetua
15. Extrafina
16. ?
6b
6a
6b
6c+
6a
5+
6a+
6c
6b
6c
6b
6a
5+
5+
6a+
5+
6
7
17. Pinchito moruno

18. El ultiomo de la fila
19. Calentura invernal
20. Primera experiensa
21. Filas pipas
coronn.com

Calvi, in the village, take right
where a signpost shows
"Establishments". Continue out of
the village until you just have past
a section with stone walls on both
sides of the road (about 2,6 km
after Calvi). Park in a small laybay on the right side of the road in
a bend. Walk back 75 metres and
climb over a fence. Follow the track
into the wood and the valley and
after approximately 700 meters you
will see the crag when you stands
below it. The climbing is not excelent
compared with other crags on
Mallorca but shadow make people
chose it even though.
10 11
5+
6a
5+
4+
6a+
12 13
14 15 16
18 19 20
17
Calvi
PM-V-101-6
19.1. El Calo de Betlem

N 39 45.598
EO 03 19.804
North, North-West
20 m.
19.2.
2
19.1.
7
6
2,3
8,9
Betlem
1. Horitous
2. Pin
3. Pon
4. Tot Disney
5. Yogui
6. Bordillo
7. Project
8. ?
9. ?
7a
6b
7b+
7a
7a
7a
?
?
?
coronn.com

Drive the road C-712 between Art and Can Picafort. Turn
of North and follow signpost for Colnia de Sant Pere /
Betlem. Continue until you reach the villa settlement of
Betlem, drive trough and pass a gate and continue
approximately 500 metres on a gravelled road. Park and
walk on the road to the crags.
If you continue about 1 kilometres from crag 19.2. you will
reach a beach.
C-712
Art
19.2. El Calo de Betlem

See 19.1.
N 39 45.997
EO 03 20.068
20
North-West, West, South-West

20 m.
21
17
18
19.2.
19,
20
16
8
1. Sostre (15 m. left)

2. Joan 90
3. ?
4. ?
5. Fisura
6. Wilow
7. Juanma
8. Project
9. Canal
10. La Curta
11. Es Pasto
12. Tequila forever
13. Xupamela
14. Crozzly Wall
15. Facil
16. Almudaina
17. Moro
18. ?
19. Tot Picat
20. El Nostro projecte
21. Murto
19.1.
6c+
7a
6b+
7a+
6b
6b
5+
6a
8a+
6b+
7b
6c
6c
7,8
7a
6a+
6b
6b+
5+
6a
7a+
?
Betlem
12
15
9
10
coronn.com
11
14
13
C-712
Art
20.1. Ermita de Betlem

N 39 43.844
EO 03 18.665
1 route,
no name, no grade
20.2.
20.3.
20.1.
North
20 m.
12
15
25
1
1. Murto
2. ?
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
7. ?
8. ?
7b
6b
6b+
6b
4
6a
6b+
7a+
6
2 34 5
14, 16
11, 1315
17 18 19
20 21
22
23
24
10
8 9 12
9. ?
10. Tano
11. ?
12. Los Satelites
13. Punt Roker
14. ?
15. ?
16. Lolo
6c
7a
6b+
7b+
7c+
7c+
7a
6c+
17. ?
18. ?
19. ?
20. ?
21. ?
22. ?
23. ?
24. ?
25. ?
7a
6a+
6c+
7c+
6a
7a+
7b+
6c+
6b
Art
coronn.com
Drive the road C-712 or C-715 to Art. In the village, find your way to the
centre and follow signposts for Ermita de Betlem. As you leave the
village, drive in the direction for Ermita de Betlem for 7,3 kilometres. On
a summit of a hill, before the road drops down to the Church, park on big
laybys to the left or right of the road. Continue on a gravelled road (pass
a gate) to the left about 4-500 metres and then you will see the crags to
your right. Follow a narrow track down to the crags.
12
C-7
20,
21
20.2.1. Ermita de Betlem

North
20 m.
20.2.
20.3.
20.1.
1. White Musk
2. Psicodelia
3. Tropical
4. Patranus
5. Lobo Estepario
6. Sometimes
7. Libido
8. Muy Mucho
9. Mata Mua
6b+
6c+
7b+
7b+
7c+
7c+
7c
?
7c
14 15
18
16,
17
13
9
7
1
11
10
12
4
2 3
56
19
10. Mauricio en el pais el Vicio
11. Alicia el pais de la Malicia
12. Paranoid
13. Amapolia
14. Mazinger Z
15. Decadencia
16. Osito
17. Oso Perezoso
18. Sembrador de Collias
19. Magia
7c+
7c+
8b+
7b+
7a+
8a+
7b+
8b
8c
8b
Art
coronn.com
12
C-7
20.2.2. Ermita de Betlem

North
20 m.
20.2.
20.3.
20.1.
20
21 22
23,
24
25
27 28
26
20.Cubalibre
21. Camino del Exceso
22. La Sombra de Cain
23. Piltrafilla
24. Septiembre Negro
25. Siniestro Total
26. Siniestro
8c
8a+
7c+
7c+
8a
8b
8a+
29
30
31
32
27. Belle Epoque

28. Chin Chan
29. Plis-Plas
30. Alquaeda
31. Wild widow
32. Frenada Mariachi
6b+
6b+
6a
6b
6b+
6a
Art
coronn.com
12
C-7
21.1. Santanyi, left part

South
20 m.
7 8 9 10 1112
13 14
15 16
17
45 metres to route 18.
Tower
1. Left wing
2. Churrito y Pelete
3. Tom y Jerry
4. Ebam
5. Ebamsa
6. Commando Foracorda
7. Semen de Trigo
8. Finger killer
9. Foot-hook
6a
4+
5
4+
5
7a+
6b
6c
6b+
10. El Diedro
11. Vino Tinto
12. Tapas
13. Blame it on the rain
14. Honeymoon
15. Never mind the bollocks
16. Xiscu que Relliscu
17. Tup de Rock
5+
6a
6a+
6c+
7a
7a
6b
6c
Santanyi
Cala Santanyi
PM
V6
10
-2
61
PM
coronn.com
Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After

you have left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning
signposted for Cala Santanyi and instead take the second
one. Then take the first left turn and then the first right
signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a car park before
a barrier. Walk down the road to a ruin tower, then to the
right to come under the face of the crag.
Sen Mger
Cala Santanyi
Cala Figuera
21.2. Santanyi, middle part

South
25 m.
26
23
20
18
19
22,
23
20,21
24
25,
26
27
P
Tower
18. Escuelar de Calor

19. Supersexi
20. Un dimanche la companye
21. Tocino for Pepino
22. Flesh for Dani
23. Raixa
24. Comepiedras
25. Cancamos
26. Miquelis
27. La Calle de Ritmo
6b+
7a
7a
7a
7b
7c
7b+
7b
7b+
7b
PM
10

V6
10
-
6
PM
coronn.com
Santanyi
Cala Santanyi
Sen Mger
Cala Santanyi
Cala Figuera
21.3. Santanyi, right part

South
25 m.
46
43
35
28
29
30
33
32
31
34
36
37
38
39 40
44
47 to 52
45,
46
41 42
P
Tower
28. Psicomambo
29. La Peli
30. Cocina Ligera
31. Na cal les Seychelles
32. Colesterol Party
33. Batchcampft
34. Evola
35. Raiworld, project
36. Calabruix
37. Posedion
38. Chuteur fou
39. Go Johnny
6c
7b
7b
7a+
6a+
7a+
8a
?
8b
7b
7b+
8a
40. Rompepiernas
41. Naranja
42. Espoln
43. Casting
44. Executive producer
45. Cumosho
46. Screenplay
47. Postal service
48. Tijuana
49. Sa des Plastics
50. Welcome to Paradise
51. Perestroica
52. Costa Sud
7a
7a
6c
6b+
6c+
6c+
6c
7a+
8a+
7b+
7b+
8?
6b+
coronn.com
Santanyi
Cala Santanyi

PM
PM
0
61
V6
10
-
Sen Mger
Cala Santanyi
Cala Figuera
22.1. Cala Magraner
South
20 m.
13
10
10,
11
1. Un tio Conflictiu
2. Wall and Bulge
3. ?
4. Imagine
5. TNT
6. Dingo
7. Tufa Big
8. Sand bag
9. Project
10. Delicatessan
11. Delicatessan right hand
12. Right-hand roof 1
13. Right-hand roof 2
9
Direction
Manacor
7a
7c+
7c+
7c
8a
7c+
7b+
7b+
7a+
?
7b
7a
7b
Stone wall
7,
8
1-
V4
0
2 3
PM
5
1
12,
13
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After

about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right, continue
through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After
a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks
more like a big green field many times of the season. The
road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes
surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two
smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small
gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the
right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk
back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a
stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost
Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and then continue along
the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near
the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families
with children and the crag offers enough climing for many
day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down
the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.
Porto Cristo
coronn.com
Calas de
Mallorca
22.2. Cala Magraner
South
16 m.
18
14. First wall
15. The crack
16. Crack Eliminate
17. Al loro Manolo (top-rope)
18. Body Fatique
19. Metal Fatique
20. Liadre de Somnis
21. Retanuit
22. Sense Voler
23. Diagonal Pockets
24. Tiny
25. The big red stain
26. Tootsie
27. Mou els Peus
28. Migueln el Travieso
29. En pas Descanse
21
22
5
6a
6a+
?
6c
7a+
6c
6a+
6a
6a+
6b
6c
6b+
6b+
6c
5+
23 24
25 26 27
28
29
Direction
Manacor
Stone wall
19 20
1-
17
V4
0
15 16
PM
14
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca".

After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right,
continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the
right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your
left that looks more like a big green field many times of the
season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right
while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly
up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first
with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate
(normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large
lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence
just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly
after with signpost Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and
then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place,
exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk
it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers
enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag
you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas
to your left behind some thicket.
Porto Cristo
Routes on the big block, from left to right;

grade 5, 6a, 5
coronn.com
Calas de
Mallorca
22.3. Cala Magraner

South
20 m.
40
30
7a+
6c+
6a
5+
4
3
4+
33
34
35
42
43
39
36 37 38
37. Pixotades per ses Galtes

38. Penta
39. Galiana mEngana
40. Sa Sesta
41. Pipiricot
42. Wall and groove
43. Florinotto
6c+
6c+
6c
6b+
6b+
5+
5+
Direction
Manacor
Stone wall
V4
0
1-
30. Cave left

31. Cave right
32. Sa Nyoscia
33. Paramuero
34. Herbofilia
35. Jardiners sense fronteres
36. Perell
31 32
41
PM
Porto Cristo
coronn.com
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a Tjunction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short
drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of
the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with
trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed
small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a
large lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone
wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and then
continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the
quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for
many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas
to your left behind some thicket.
Calas de
Mallorca
22.4. Cala Magraner

South
20 m.
47
48
44 45
59
46,
47
51
49
50
52 53
54
55 56
57
60
58
64
62
61
63
Sea
Direction
Manacor
Stone wall
6a
6b+
6c+
5+
7a
6b
6a+
6b
6a
6a
6a+
6a
6b+
6a
5+
?
4
5
6a
5+
6b+
PM
V
40
1-
44. Crack
45. Reachy
46. Only you
47. The Juggy one
48. Joc de Mans
49. Dangerous
50. Staples
51. Xorics
52. Repusai
53. Beachcomber
54. Ses Tres Maries
55. Asqu
56. Asulla
57. Lamo de Baltix menvia
58. Flotsam
59. Jetsam
60. Elvigilant de la Platja
61. Clsica
62. Ses Panxetes
63. Pilla, Pilla
64. The final line
Porto Cristo
coronn.com
Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction.
Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass
a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road
turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up.
Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a
larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk back,
turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with
signpost Agriturismo). Follow the stone wall and then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful
place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with
children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come
to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.
Calas de
Mallorca
23. Castell de Santueri

South-East, East
30 m.
13,
14
3,
4
9 10
6
11
12
17, 19 20 21 22
18
15
16
Direction
Manacor
1,2
Felanitx
PM512
14
?
?
7c
8a
7c+
7b+
7c
7b
7b
6c
7a+
8a
8a
7b, 8a
8a, 8b
8a+, 8b+, 8c
7b+
7c+
8a+
7a+, 8a
7b
8b
C7
1. ?
2. ?
3. Santueri
4. Pixes
5. Masaix
6. Apolis
7. Ra
8. Escuni Ezquera
9. Es Castell
10. Qwin Tomas
11. Munchescal
12. Picha Boba
13. Antrax
14. Sex Cannabis
15. Capitn
16. Matrix
17. Vine, Vine
18. De Deb
19. 18 de Julio
20. Can Moix
21. Sonrisa Vertical
22. Cuaran
coronn.com
Drive to Felanitx and then towards Santanyi. After about 3 km, turn left
where a signpost gives you "Castell de Sanctueri". Drive up to the
castle and park there. To the right of the steps to the castle is a steep
track going down, follow that to the crag.
Route number 1 and 2 ain't illustrated on this TOPO, but you pass
them on your walk down to the "main" crag.
PM
V4
01
-6
Direction
Santanyi
Montserrat
Manresa
E15
C3
E9
Montserrat
Castelloli
Drive from Barcelona in the

direction of Monserrat on the
A2 highway.
To reach the areas of Gorros,
Sant Benet and the Campsite,
turn of at exit 576.
To reach Collobat, which is the
starting point for Can Jorba and
Vinya Nova, use exit 575.
To reach Agulles and Vermell,
use exit 572.
To reach Frares, Ecos and
Parets, choose
exit 572 (Massana) or
exit 576 (Monistrol).
Terrassa
Sabadell
A2
C15
C55
Igualada
Granollers
Esparreguera
E15
BARCELONA
Vilafranca
del Peneds
C32
Direction
Tarragona
C3
Direction
Manresa
BP
11
21
Direction
Manresa
22-25
26-34
Agulles
Can Maana
54
55-58
53
50
11-13
BP11
01
Frares
41-45
46-49
35-40
Colonia Piug
1
Ecos
14-15
1
BP110
Vermell
61
18-19
Parets
60
20-21
52
Monistrol de
Montserrat
59
Can Jorba
7-10
51
5-6
16-17
Direction
Lleida
St. Benet
66-67
Vinya Nova
68
Monestir de Montserrat
2-4
El Bruc de Dalt
Campsite
Gorros
Can Jorba
62-65
St. Joan
Vinya Nova
El Bruc del Mig
Serrat dels monjos
A2
C55
B1
11
El Bruc residencial
2
B11
Collbat
coronn.com
Direction
Barcelona
Direction
Martor
1. Colonia Piug Can Mascle

North, North-East
20 m.
4
9
17
10
1
16
18
19
2
3,
4,
5
1. Distncia europea
2. Autiloff
3. ?
4. Patufet
5. Patufet variant
6. Sensaci de buit
7. Kendermore
8. Funt Fireforge
9. El enano
10. J'ai perdu.....
11. Deixalles, no grcies
12. Kokinski
13. Kokorota
14. Picantus ineptus
15. Me abruma....
7a
6b
7a
6b
6a
6c
6b
6a
7a
6b+
5+
6a
6b
7a
7a
7
8,9,10
16. Kokodrilo
17. Pato mareado
18. Cerdilandia
19. ?
20. Es 3 porquets
21. Ay, que calor
22. Variant of route 21.
23. Los viejos pellejos
24. Spirit of freedom
25. Avu si, avu no
26. ?
27. Fen safr
28. Un article per la fama
29. Golimbrea
30. Cantimpal
11 12
13 14 15,
16
6b+
6b
6c
6b+
?
6b+
6c
7b
7b+
7b+
?
7c
6a+
6b
6b+
17,18,
19,20
23 24 26 27
25
21 22
Direction
Manresa
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Colonia Piug
Direction
Barcelona
coronn.com
28 29 30
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway.

Turn of at exit 576.
On the way to Monistir from Monistrol de Montserrat you will pass
this crag. Park at a lay-bay somewhere near the crag.
This crag is bolted and the short routes offer pleasant sport climbing.
Monestir
2. La Granote
3. Frai Gar
North, North-East
North, North-East
40 m.
1
14
15 16 17
19 20
21
11 12 13
3 4 5 6
8 9
1. Espermicida
?
10. Takashi
2. Ratpenat
5
11. Magnum
3. X-13
5
12. Moviment dad
4. Clara
5
13. Fisura dels debutants
5. Pique-Longue
5
14. ?
6. Marcelolandia
6b
15. Esfera luminosa
7. Media hora ms contigo
5+
16. Ester
8. Alucina carabina
6a
17. Esfera de cristal
9. Isumoto
6c
18. Pitufina
coronn.com
18
10
6a+
6b
6c
5
?
4
5
6b
7a
19. Shangai surprise

20. Me dais asco todos
21. Traficants de somnis
5
5
4+
Direction
Sant Joan
4
2
3
Sant Miquel
Boulder
Hermita
Direction
Camping
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, turn of at exit 576.
Monestir
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the Monestir (Montserrat
monastery). Park at the big car park before the bars (in the low seasons it might be possible to
continue to the monastery). Pass the monastery and continue along a small road on the opposite
side of the gully in the direction of the campsite. Before you reach the campsite turn right onto a footpath leading to the crag. The routes in
this area have become polished with use so don't be disappointed if a grade 6 feels more like a 7b. All the routes are bolted.
4. La Rampingui
North, North-East
50 m.
2b
1. Pasa capa la llastra zapastra
2. Travesera de dalt
2b. Nmero 82
3. Raticulin
4. La casa de los Martnez
5. Rafaela
6. Alta tensin
6a+
6c
6b
6b
6a+
6b
5
2 3,4
coronn.com
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2

highway, turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue
to the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Park at the big car park
before the bars (in the low seasons it might be possible to continue
to the monastery). Pass the monastery and continue along a
small road on the opposite side of the gully in the direction of the
campsite. Before you reach the campsite turn right onto a footpath
leading to the crag. The routes in this area have become polished
with use so don't be disappointed if a grade 6 feels more like a
7b. All the routes are bolted.
Direction
Sant Joan
4
2
3
Sant Miquel
Boulder
Camping
Hermita
Direction
Monestir
5. El Fara

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of
Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach
the Can Jorba, and the El Fara crag
drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig.
Park and walk along the track to the
crag. You can also drive to the small
village of Can Jorba, continue through
the village and drive along the small
road to a point where you are directly
under the crag. Park and walk to the
crag.
The other side
III
Ae
South, South-East
150 m.
A1
IV
V+
6a
IV+
V
IV
IV
V
6c
Ae
IV
A2
V
4
V
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
IV
VV+
V
IV
V
Ae
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
8.
9. 7.
Ae
5.
6.
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
III
3
1. Estrany Mirall Llinar
2. Anglada-Guillamn
3. Temple del Sol
4. Via Normal
coronn.com
MD+/Ae
MD/A2
MDA1
Can Jobra
El Castell
6. LAgulla de la Tempestat

Drive from Barcelona in the direction
of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To
reach the Can Jorba, and the L'Agulla
de la tempestat crag drive to El Castell
from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk
along the track to the crag. You can
also drive to the small village of Can
Jorba, continue through the village and
drive along the small road to a point
where you are directly under the crag.
Park and walk to the crag.
North, North-East
40 m.
El Fara, crag 5.
1. Via Torras -Nubiola
IV+
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
8.
10.
9. 7.
5.
6.
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Can Jobra
El Castell
coronn.com
7. Agulla del Senglar

8. La Proa
1. Marijuana de porrera
2. Fish
3. Ruch
4. Discordia
5. Viatge imaginari
6. Correcamins
7. Variante
8. Ben petat
9. Somni diablic
10. Sprint final
11. Same
12. ?
13. Angle invers
14. Accs
15. Mnim esfor
16. Lourdes
17. Un poco loco
South
60 m.
6a
7b
7c
7a+
8a
6b
7a+
7c+
8a
8a
7b
7a+
7c+
7a
8a
8b
8b

reach the Can Jorba, and the Agulla
del senglar crag drive to El Castell from
El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along
the track to the crag.
About 50 metres to the left of this crag
you will find the L'Agulla de la Proa
tower, marked as number 8 on the map.
The route on this crag is called Via
Torras-Nubiola and the first pitch is
graded IV+, the second pitch IV and
the last pitch IV.
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
8.
2 3
1
10.
9. 7.
5.
6.
15
5
13
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
7,8
9
coronn.com
14,15
10
16 17
Can Jobra
11 12
El Castell
9. LAgulla del Castell

the sector Can Jorba, and the Agulla
del senglar crag, drive to El Castell from
El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along
the track to the crag. You will find the
crag alongside the track.
South
50 m.
1. Via de les margarides
2. Via Ecolgica
3. Via Torras-Nubiola
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
IV
A1,V
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
A3
IV,V
IV,IV+
III, IV
V+
IV+
IV, A1
IV,V
10.
9. 7.
5.
6.
IV,V
IV
1
8.
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
V+
3
Can Jobra
El Castell
coronn.com
10. LAgulla Fina

reach the Can Jorba, and the L'Agulla
fina crag drive to El Castell from El Bruc
de Mig. Park and walk along the track
to the crag. You will pass La Proa (crag
8.) and L'Agulla del senglar (crag 7.),
then you will reach this crag.
South
100 m.
1. Via gede
2. Varinte
V
VI
A1
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
V+
V
2
A1
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
IV
8.
A1
10.
9. 7.
5.
6.
V
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Can Jobra
1,2
coronn.com
El Castell
11. LAgulla Vista

12. LAgulla del cor de be
13. LAgulla del Miracle
III
South
25 m.
III,IV
IV
V
3.
III
III
1.
A1
5.
4.
2.
6.
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
1. Via gede
2. Paret est
3. Via bages
4. Via normal
5. Via normal
6. Via doble corda
Direction
Sector Frares
11. 12. 13.
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
14.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
coronn.com

Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the
Can Jorba and these crags turn of the highway
at exit 572. Continue in the direction of the
Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you
will be just under the crags. Park at a lay-bay
and find the track that leads to the left side
of the crags, at a T-junction, turn right to
reach the crags.
10.
9.
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
El Castell
14. La Vella
Northeast side
South and North-East

45 m.
III

A2 highway. To reach the Can
Jorba and these crags turn of
the highway at exit 572.
Continue in the direction of the
Monestir de Montserrat to a
point where you will be just
under the crags. Park at a laybay and find the track that leads
to the left side of the crags, at
a T-junction, turn left to reach
the La vella crag, located to the
left of the track after the track
has turned from south to east.
A1
III
III+
A2
A2
A1
IV
1. Via Aresta Brucs

2. Via normal
3. Via Torras-Nubiola
A1
A0
III
A1
3.
V
IV
2.
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
IV
1.
Direction
Sector Frares
11. 12.
13.
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
14.
Direction
Sector Frares
15.
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
coronn.com
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
El Castell
15. El Cilindre
North, North-West
55 m.

the Can Jorba and these crags turn of
the highway at exit 572. Continue in the
direction of the Monestir de Montserrat
to a point where you will be just under
the crags. Park at a lay-bay and find the
track that leads to the left side of the
crags, at a T-junction, turn left, pass the
La vella crag, pass a T-junction where
a track turns to the left and after this you
will find this distinctive crag on your right.
III,IV
II,III
North side
IV
IV+
A1
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
V
IV+
A2
IV
1.
Direction
Sector Frares
11. 12.
13.
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
2.
1.
14.
1. Via normal
2. Via Ces
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
15.
10.
16.
9.
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
coronn.com
17.
Direction
El Castell
16.1. Els Plecs del Llibre

South
220 m.
III
V
II
III
IV
IV
IV+
III
2.

reach the Can Jorba sector, and the El
Plecs del Llibre crag drive to the village
Can Jorba from El Bruc de Mig. Park
and walk along the track to the crag.
IV,IV+
A2
IV
IV
A2
IV
IV+
1.
IV
IV+
1. Via Normal
2. Aresta del Sol
3. Aresta del Bellver
4. Aresta Tobogan
5. Via Arcarons
V
A1
IV
V
IV,IV+
V
A1
IV+
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
IV+
IV
14.
V,V+
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
IV+
IV
15.
III+
V
V
IV+
III,IV
8.
A0
10.
9. 7.
IV
5.
6.
21.
16.
17.
IV
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
3.
IV
A0
V
4.
III,IV
5.
coronn.com
Can Jobra
El Castell
16.2. Els Plecs del Llibre

reach the Can Jorba sector, and the El
Plecs del Llibre crag drive to the village
South
220 m.
IV
IV+
A2e
1. Via Vendrell
2. Via Rosaura
3. Via Trilogi
IV+,V
IV
IV,IV+
IV
A1,IV
IV
IV+,V
IV+
V+
IV+
14.
V
IV+,V
V+
A1
IV+
V
A1,IV
IV+
A1
A1
IV
IV+,V
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
15.
IV
8.
IV,V
IV
IV+
10.
9. 7.
A1
III+
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
5.
6.
21.
16.
17.
A2
A1
IV+
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
IV
III
III
coronn.com
Can Jobra
El Castell
17. La Cajoleta

reach the Can Jorba sector, and the
La Cajoleta crag drive to the village
South
155 m.
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Via "Rayo"
3. Via Vargas-jov
III
IV
IV
III
IV
III
IV
V
III
III
14.
III
IV
A1
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
Direction
Sector Frares
15.
IV
A1
IV
III
5.
A0
16.
6.
17.
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
IV
IV
2
3
Can Jobra
El Castell
coronn.com
Direction
Sant Jeroni
18.
18. La Roca dels Aurons

reach the Can Jorba, and the La roca
dels Aurons crag drive to the village
You will pass the La Cajoleta crag and
Els plecs del Llibre crag.
You can also walk along the track from
the other side of the mountain, see
approach to crag 11,12,13,14.
South
65 m.
III
II
III
III
IV
Direction
Sector Frares
A1
19.
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
14.
Direction
Sector Frares
Southeast side
15.
IV
IV
16.
III-
17.
2
IV
1. Via Bages
2. Aresta nord
3. Via normal
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
VV
3
II
Can Jobra
El Castell
coronn.com
Direction
Sant Jeroni
18.
20.
19. Roques del Salt de la Nina

the Can Jorba sector, and these crags
turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue
in the direction of the Monestir de
Montserrat to a point where you are directly
under the crag. Park at a lay-bay and find
the track. In a T-junction, turn left to reach
the crags.
North
220 m.
II
IV,IV+
A2,V+
IV
IV+
A1
IV+
V
IV,IV+
V
A3,VI
V
A2
V
V+
IV
V
V+
A2
A1
IV
V
IV
V
A2
V
A2
V+
A1
A1
IV
IV
IV+
V
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
IV+
IV+,V
IV+
Direction
Sector Frares
IV
11. 12. 13.

19.
V,A0
V
IV+
V
A1e
IV+
A1e
A1e
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
14.
Direction
Sector Frares
15.
18.
20.
II
III
2
1. Via Tim
2. Dedre Pericman
3. L'Esper de L'Alba
coronn.com
IV+
3
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
Sant Jeroni
20. La Salamandra
North
200 m.

A2 highway. To reach the Can
Jorba sector and the crags turn
of the highway at exit 572.
Continue in the direction of the
Monestir de Montserrat to a
point where you are directly
under the crag. Park at a laybay and find the track. In a Tjunction, turn left to reach the
crags.
Route number 2, Via normal,
is on the south side of La
Salamandra and is graded III,
III, III+ and the last 20 metres
is graded II.
III
V
A2
V,VI
1. Via Magda
2. Via normal (not on the TOPO
V
A2
V
VI
V
A1
Picture: Salamandra Atra
VI
Direction
Monestir
Direction
Can Maana
IV
IV
Direction
Sector Frares
19.
III
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
14.
Direction
Sector Frares
15.
18.
20.
21.
III,IV
coronn.com
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
Direction
Can Jobra
Direction
Sant Jeroni
21. El Montgrs

reach the Can Jorba, and the El
Montgrs crag drive to the Can Jorba
village from El Bruc de Mig. Park and
walk along the track to the crag. You
will pass the El Plecs del Llibre crags.
Continue and take the first track to the
left. When you reach a T-junction, keep
left and finally to the left again to reach
the crag.
North
240 m.
III
IV
IV,IV+
III
IV,IV+
V
IV+
Direction
Santa Ceclia
Font del
Llum
Direction
Sector Frares
V
14.
Direction
Sant Jeroni
Direction
Sector Frares
1. Via de la graviola bella
15.
IV+,V
V,A1
8.
A1,V
10.
9. 7.
5.
6.
21.
16.
17.
V,A1
Direction
El Bruc de Dalt
IV,V
Can Jobra
1
El Castell
coronn.com
22. LAgulla Sense Nom
23.1. La Boleta del Portella estret
South
110 m.
South
20 m.
IV+

the Frares sector, choose exit 572
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow
the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat
and just before you reach the small
village of Can Maana you should turn
right onto a smaller road signposted to
Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue
on this road as far as you are allowed
to drive. Walk to the mountains on the
road that soon becomes a track. Pass
the track that leads down to El Miracle
and at the T-junction, turn right to reach
this crag.
1. Via Normal, L'Anec

2. Via Normal, La sense nome
3. Via Normal, LA BOLETA
III
III
III
IV+
III
III
Direction
El Miracle
III
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
II
Direction
Portella
23.
25.
27. 26.
24.
12.
11.
22.
1
III
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
23.2. La Boleta del Portella Estret

North
165 m.

this crag.
III
IV
III,IV
1. Via SAME
2. Via Iglesias-Torres Casanovas
A1e,A2e
IV
IV
V
III
A1
A1e
IV+
A1
A0,V
Direction
El Miracle
A1e
V+
IV+
V
A1
IV+
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
A2e
A1e
Direction
Portella
A1e
23.
25.
27. 26.
24.
12.
11.
22.
A2
VI
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
24. LAgulla Passola
25. El Gendarme
North
40 m.
North-West
25 m.
IV
A1e
1

this crag.
1. Del collet
2. G.E.D.L
3. Via normal
4. Via aresta brucs
IV
III
A2e
III,IV
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
IV
Direction
Portella
23.
25.
27-28. 26.
24.
12.
11.
22.
III
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
4
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
26. La Nina

this crag.
North
35 m.
V
A2e
III
1. Via normal
IV
A1e
1
III
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
29.
Direction
Portella
23.
25.
27-28.
26.
24.
12.
11.
22.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
27. La Boleta Foradada

28. LAgulla del Centenar

and at the T-junction, leave the track
and head for the crag.
III,IV
North
150 m.
III,IV
1. Via Anglada-Cerd
2. Via CADE, L'Agulla del centenar
IV,V
A1
V,A0
A2,A3
V,V+
A2
A2
V+
A1
Direction
El Miracle
IV+
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
V+,VI
30.
29.
Direction
Portella
25.
27-28. 26.
24.
12.
11.
22.
V,V+
V,V+
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
IV+
III
coronn.com
V,A1
A1
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
29. El Bisbe
North
300 m.
III
A1,IV

and at the T-junction, turn left and walk
100 metres and finally leave the track
IV
A1
IV
V
III,IV
A0e
V+
1. Via GAM
2. Via Carrizosa-Colt
A1e
A1e,A2
V
A2
A1e
V+
Direction
El Miracle
A1e
A1,V
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
IV
A1,V
29.
Direction
Portella
IV+,A0
V
27-28. 26.
30.
31.
12.
11.
IV
IV
A1e
IV
IV,V
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
III
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
III
Direction
El Castell
30. La Miranda del Lloro

150 metres and finally leave the track
IV
North
215 m.
A
V
V
V
IV+
1. Via Veni, Vidi, Vinci

A1
V
A1
V
IV+
A1
Direction
El Miracle
V+
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
V,A1
29.
V
Direction
Portella
30.
27-28. 26.
31.
32.
A1
50.
12.
11.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
III
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
31. LAsitica

approximately 200 metres and then
finally leave the track and head for the
crag.
North
125 m.
IV,IV+
1. Via L'Asitica
V
A1,A2
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
29.
Direction
Portella
A2
30.
27-28. 26.
31.
32.
50.
12.
11.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
A2
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
32.1. El Lloro
75 m.
III
IV
III
IV

and at the T-junction, turn right to find
the track that leads to the area with
towers. At the two following T-junctions,
turn left and when the track changes
direction from Northeast to South, follow
the bend and you will find the crag.
The east side

IV
A2e
III
A2
A1
III
IV
IV
A2e
IV
A1
A0
A2e
IV
IV,IV+
IV+
A1e
III
IV
2
A2
IV
Direction
El Miracle
A2
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
A2
II
29.
Direction
Portella
III
30.
27-28. 26.
31.
32.
12.
11.
IV
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
1. Via Iglesias-roca-Sanchez
2. Via per sota l'ala
3. Via normal
4.Via cerd
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
32.2. El Lloro

IV
South
120 m.
A1e
A1e
A2e
1. Via Iglesias-Casanovas
A2
IV
Direction
El Miracle
II
V
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
29.
IV+
Direction
Portella
30.
27-28. 26.
33.
31.
32.
IV
III
12.
11.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
II,III
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
33. La Monja
IV
South
130 m.
A1e

III
3.Via normal, on the other side, III,IV
IV
A0
III
III
IV
V+
A1
IV
III
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
29.
IV
Direction
Portella
IV+
31.
32.
12.
11.
34.
IV
IV+
27-28. 26.
33.
30.
1. Via Anglada-Vergs
2. Via sor Angustias
3. Via normal
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
34. El Tub i la Patata
All points of the compass

40 m.

towers. At the two following T-junctions
keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track
changes direction from Northeast to
South, follow the bend and you will find
the crag on your left.
IV
IV
A1
V
A2
V+
IV,V
A2
III,IV
Direction
El Miracle
A1
A2
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
31.
Direction
Portella
III,IV
33.
32.
12.
11.
34.
35.
2
1. Via navarro-estorach
2. Xemeneia Barriere
3. Via torras-nubiola
4. Via normal
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
36.
43.
44.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
35. La Nana

keep left and after the second T-junction
you will find the crag to your right.

40 m.
III
South side
III,IV
IV+
IV
IV+
A1
V
A1e
V
A1
IV
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
A2,IV
IV
31.
Direction
Portella
IV
33.
III
32.
12.
11.
34.
3
35.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
2
1. Via paret Est
2. Via aresta Nord
3. Via aresta Brucs
coronn.com
36.
37.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
36. La Mamelluda
North, South and East

60 m.

you will find the crag to your right if you
leave the track and walk in the direction
of this crag on a smaller track.
III
IV
III+
East side
III
IV
IV+
South side
V+
IV+
III
IV+
V
Direction
El Miracle
III
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
III
31.
Direction
Portella
32.
33.
12.
11.
34.
1
2
38.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
1. Via Anglada-Auqu
2. Via Pirenaica
3. Via Normal
coronn.com
35.
36.
37.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
37. LAgulla Amagada

North
45 m.

you will find the crag to your right after
having left the main track in the direction
of the crag.
II
III
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
IV
33.
12.
11.
34.
38.
1
1. Via Aresta Nord
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
39.
35.
36.
37.
40.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
38. La Caputxa

towers. At the following T-junction, hold
left and in the next one, walk straight
forward. You will find the crag to your
left after having left the main track in
the direction of the crag.
North and East

45 m.
III
IV,V
V+
IV,V
IV,V
IV+
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
IV
Direction
Portella
33.
12.
11.
34.
38.
1. Via Normal
2. Via Aresta Brucs
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
39.
35.
36.
41. 42.
37.
40.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
39. La Pirmide
40. El Cap den Calventus
III
II
IV
South
90 m.
South
50 m.
A2e
III,IV

III
III
III+
A1e
III
III,IV+
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
III

towers. At the following T-junction, hold
left and in the next one, walk straight
forward. You will find the crags to your
left after having left the main track in
the direction of the crag.
Direction
Portella
33.
12.
11.
34.
III
38.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
39.
1. Via Aresta Brucs

2. Via Aresta dels Brucs
coronn.com
35.
36.
41. 42.
37.
40.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
41. Agulla Sensa Nom

42..1. LAgulla de la Grip
65 m.

the crag on your right after having left
the main track in the direction of the
crags.
III
A1e
IV+
III
IV
IV
1. Via Aresta Brucs, Agulla sense nom

2. Via Aresta Brucs, L'Agulla de la grip
III,IV
Direction
El Miracle
III,IV
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
12.
11.
34.
38.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
39.
35.
36.
41. 42.
43.
44.
37.
40.
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
42.2. L'Agulla de la Grip
West
105 m.

the crag on your right after having left
the main track in the direction of the
crags.
III
V-
IV+
1. Via Atxs
III
IV-
Direction
El Miracle
IV+
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
III
12.
11.
34.
38.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
39.
35.
36.
41. 42.
43.
44.
37.
40.
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
43. LAgulla Aina

South, follow the bend and turn left in
the next T-junction. You will find the
crag on the right side of the track.
South
70 m.
IV
1. Via Bresgom
IV
Direction
El Miracle
IV
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
12.
11.
34.
IV
35.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
IV
coronn.com
36.
41. 42.
43.
44.
45.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
44. El Dit
105 m.
South side
III
V
IV+
V+
IV
IV+

South, follow the bend and continue
straight ahead in the next T-junction.
You will find the crag on the left side
of the track.
V+
IV
East side
III
North side
IV
V
V
IV
V
El dit inferior
V+
III
IV
IV,V
A1e
IV
IV
V,V+
A1
III
IV+
A1e
Direction
El Miracle
V+
IV
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
3
IV
Direction
Portella
III
12.
11.
34.
35.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
2
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Via Bresgom
3. Via Same
4. Via Normal
coronn.com
41. 42.
43.
44.
45.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
45. LAgulla Fcil

46. El Ditet
South
115 m.

III
IV
1. Via Auqu Muoz

2. Via Aresta Brucs
III
IV
III
Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the

A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572
(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for
Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto a
smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a
track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at
the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the
area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep
left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from
Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue straight
ahead in the next T-junction. You will find the crags on
your left after having left the main track in the direction of
the crags.
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
III,IV
III+
Direction
Portella
12.
11.
34.
III
35.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
41. 42.
43.
44.
47.
45.
1
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
47. El Bacall

(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for
Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto a
smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a
track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and
at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to
the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep
left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from
Northeast to South, follow the bend and turn left in the
next T-junction. Afetr approximately 150 metres you will
find the crag after havin left the main track in the direction
of the crag.
North, East
35 m.
VA2e
A2e
V,A0
V
A2
VA1
Direction
El Miracle
A1,A0
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
IV+
IV
IV+
Direction
Portella
12.
11.
34.
III
V
35.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
41. 42.
43.
44.
47.
45.
48.
1. Via Bages
2. Dedre Oest
coronn.com
49.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
48. LAgulla Gran del Pas del Prncep

North, South
140 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on
the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose
exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the
signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before
you reach the small village of Can Maana you should
turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de
Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you
are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the
road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that
leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn
right to find the track that leads to the area with towers.
At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10
minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to
South, follow the bend and continue straight forward
in the next T-junction. Continue to the next T-junction
where the right track leads to Refugie Vicen Barbe
and the left one in the direction of Coll de Port. Turn
left, pass the crag El Bitllot on your right and soon you
will reach this crag on the left side of the track.
IV
IV
IV
South side
V
A1
A1
V+
IV
A1
A2,A1,V
II
IV+
III
Direction
El Miracle
A1e,V
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
V
Direction
Portella
VI-
50.
V+
V
12.
11.
1
1. Via G.E.D.E
2. Via Normal
41. 42.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
43.
44.
47.
45.
48.
49.
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
49. El Bitllot
North-East
30 m.

IV
A1
1. Via Normal

(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost
for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto
a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes
a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and
at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to
the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions
keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction
from Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue
straight forward in the next T-junction. Continue to the
next T-junction where the right track leads to Refugie
Vicen Barbe and the left one in the direction of Coll de
Port. Turn left and you will find the crag on your right.
IV
Direction
El Miracle
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
50.
12.
11.
1
41. 42.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
43.
44.
47.
45.
48.
49.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
coronn.com
Direction
El Castell
50. El Frare Gros

A1e
South
250 m.
A2
A
1. Via Anglada-Cerd
A2
A1
V

(Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost
for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the
small village of Can Maana you should turn right onto
a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada.
Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes
a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and
at the T-junction, turn right in the direction of Coll de Port.
At the crest, in the T-junction, turn right to find your way
to the crag.
A1e
Direction
El Miracle
A1e
Direction
Collet de Guir
Can Maana
Direction
Portella
A1
50.
12.
11.
A1
41. 42.
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
IV
43.
44.
47.
45.
48.
IV
49.
III
coronn.com
Direction
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Direction
El Castell
51. El Gerro

the Agulles sector, turn of the highway
at exit 572. From the village El Bruc de
dalt you have to find a road in the
direction of the L'Era dels Pallers. Drive
as far as you are allowed to drive. Park
and continue in the same direction to
find this crag.
30 m. Two Multi-pitch routes, 50 m.
III
IV+
Direction
El Miracle
IV
22.
Collet de Guir
54.
III
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
56.
53.
39.
57.
2 3
Refugi Vicen Barbe
A2
4
5
52.
6
Direction
El bruc de dalt
coronn.com
1. Per la Nansa
2. Via Normal
3. ?
4. ?
5. ?
6. ?
6b
6c
6c
7a
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
AMiranda de les Agulles
52. Miranda de la Portella
105 m.

A2 highway. To reach the Agulles sector, use exit 572.
From the village El Bruc de dalt you have to find a road
in the direction of the L'Era dels Pallers. The road turns
sharp two times to the left and after that, in a bend to the
right, a smaller road turns of to the left. Take that one and
continue as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk along
the track in the direction of the Rifugi Vicen Barbe and
after approximately 100 metres you will find the crag after
having left the main track in the direction of the crag.
1. Cade
2. Capeta Torres
3. Ramonage
6a
Direction
El Miracle
IV
22.
Collet de Guir
54.
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
56.
53.
39.
57.
III
Refugi Vicen Barbe
6a
IV
IV
52.
Direction
El bruc de dalt
3
2
coronn.com
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
53. LAgulla del Sol Ponent

A2 highway, to reach Frares, choose exit 572 (Massana)
or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de
Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of
Can Maana you should turn right onto a smaller road
signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along
this road and when it divides into two take the left fork.
Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track
from there to this particular sector. Take the first track to
the left and follow that for approximately 200 meteres and
you will find the crag on your left.
35 m.
III
6b
III
Direction
El Miracle
III
IV
IV
IV
22.
Collet de Guir
54.
56.
53.
III
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
V+
39.
57.
III
6a
Refugi Vicen Barbe
4
3
2
52.
1. Via aresta Brucs

2. Via Normal
3. Tot el temps del mn
4. Via Aresta nord
coronn.com
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
54. La Bandareta

from there to this particular sector. Take the first track to
the left and follow that for approximately 400 meteres and
you will find the crag on your left.
V+
165 m.
Ae
III
IV
V
V+
A2
A2
IV
VI
A0
A1
IV
V+
IV+
V
Direction
El Miracle
IV+
V
VI
A2
A1
IV
V+
Ae
A1
V+
54.
A1,IV
A0
56.
53.
A1
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
IV
A2
22.
Collet de Guir
39.
57.
8
Refugi Vicen Barbe
Ae
IV
A2
coronn.com
IV+
1. Esper nord
2. Canal del Ninet
3. Grismil
4. Barrufets
5. Ven-Suri-Ven
6. Qumics
7. ?
8. Torres Nubiola
52.
Direction
El bruc de dalt
5,6
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
55. Dumbo

from there to this particular sector. Follow the track that
leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction
after the Refugi you turn left. The second smaller track
to the left leads to this crag.
V+
105 m.
6a
6a
6a+
V+
7a
Direction
El Miracle
IV+
6a+
22.
Collet de Guir
54.
6b
56.
53.
39.
57.
7a
V+
V+
6b
Refugi Vicen Barbe
V+
2
1
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
52.
3
4
6
5
coronn.com
Direction
El bruc de dalt
1. Esper dels nvols

2. Edelweis Equipada
3. Lobo estepario
4. Bola de drac
5. Agradable sobremesa con una japonesa
6. Closa-Aznar
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
56. La Bola de la Partio
85 m.
A2
6a

leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction you
reach before the Refugi you turn left and continues for
about 200 metres. You will find the crag on the right side
of the track.
1. Nria
2. Santacana
3. Via Normal
4. Sidharta
5. Santboiana
6. Argonautes
7. Enigmes del temps
8. Original
A1
IV+
IV+
Direction
El Miracle
IV
IV+
A2
A1
6a
22.
Collet de Guir
IV+
54.
IV
V
56.
53.
A1,V
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
39.
57.
6a
6a
Refugi Vicen Barbe
A2
1
V
52.
III
6a
A1
Direction
El bruc de dalt
6a
L'Era dels
Pallers
coronn.com
51.
57. La Miranda de la Bohigues

leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction
signposted for the Refugi to the right you continue straight
forward for about 200 metres. You will find the crag to
the right having left the main track in the direction of the
crag.
140 m.
V+
6a
8a
6a
IV+
6a
A0
6c
6a+
III
Ae
V
V+
6a
6b
IV
6a
6b
A1,IV
IV+
A1
6b
A0
Direction
El Miracle
6a
A2
7a+
V+
A2
A0
V+
IV
6 7
V+
54.
IV+
10
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
56.
6a
53.
39.
57.
12
Refugi Vicen Barbe
11
1. Daniel
2. La tentaci viu a dalt
3. Hiwatta
4. Amor prohibit
5. Argent
6. Jumpin jack flash
7. Montpart
8. Grimpanautes
9. Garcia Vidal
10. Verdauguer Duran
11. Conchi
12. Desarreglos intestinales
coronn.com
22.
Collet de Guir
52.
Direction
El bruc de dalt
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
58. Bessones

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2
highway, to reach Frares, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit
576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat
and just before you reach the small village of Can Maana
you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for
Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and
when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you
reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this
particular sector. Follow the track that leads to the Refugi
Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction you reach before the
Refugi you turn left and continues for about 250 metres. You
will find the crag on the left side of the track.
130 m.
IV
A2,V
6a,A3
IV,A1
Direction
El Miracle
A2
6a+
6a,A3
V+
22.
Collet de Guir
54.
A2
V,A2e
56.
53.
IV
6a
52.
Direction
El bruc de dalt
coronn.com
39.
57.
Refugi Vicen Barbe
6a
55.
58.
Direction
Can Maana
5
1. Via Aresta Brucs
2. Hay algo aqu que va mal
3. C.E.S
4. Via Aresta Brucs
5. Via Iglesias-Casanovas
L'Era dels
Pallers
51.
59.1. El Cavall Bernard
IV
260 m.
6b
A0
6a
6c
North,
northeast
side
6b
6c
Northwest
side

A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and
continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach
the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive
in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain
railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del
Moro.
After approximately 400 metres you will see the amazing
El Cavall Bernard crag to your left. It is the crag that
seems to lean out over your head. Park your car in a laybay and walk directly towards the crag. Alternatively,
continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park
and follow the track back to the crag.
A2+
V
A0
Ae
A2,V
6a
V+
V
V
Ae
6a+
A0
6a+
V+
V
V+
IV,A0
6a+
A0,V
A2,V
V
V
V+
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Hotel
IV+
V
V+
IV
7
A3
A1,V
V+
6a+
A3
6,7
A1
IV+
61.
60.
Ae
IV
IV
1. Nanga Pardal
2. Puigmal
3. Gran Ilusin
4. Punsola-Reniu
5. Parsifal
6. Sabadell
7. Josep Barbar
8. Busquets-Mas-Balaguer
59.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
coronn.com
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
59.2. El Cavall Bernard

6b
IV
180 m.

continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach
the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive
in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain
railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del
Moro.
After approximately 400 metres you will see the amazing
El Cavall Bernard crag to your left. It is the crag that
seems to lean out over your head. Park your car in a laybay and walk directly towards the crag. Alternatively,
continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park and
follow the track back to the crag. To reach the south side
of the tower you have to follow a track that leads up and
around the crag.
V
A1
III
7b
V+
South side
V+
IV
A2
IV
Ae,IV
V+
A2,V
Ae
IV+
Ae
Ae
A1
V
3
1
A2 7c
6b
IV
Ae
7a
2,3
A0
A2
Ae
V-
IV+
IV-
V
6c+
6c
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Hotel
V+
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
IV
V+
10
11
61.
60.
IV
V
V+
coronn.com
1. Reina Montesinos
2. Via Normal
3. Gam
4. Aresta cavall mgic
5. Perez-Verges
6. Enigma de citamar
7. ?
8. Xavier Rabat
9. Anglada-Guillamn
10. Edelweis
11. Desiree
59.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
60. Patriarquese
280 m.
4c
7a,6b
4c
4a
6a
4c
5c
7a
5a
6a
5a
5a
6a
Ae
A2
6b
5a
1. Alfanhui
2. Danza Vertical
3. Manyos Casanovas
4. TIM
5. Carrilet
6. Cobo-Pamplona
7. Anarquia vertical
A1
6b
4c
6b+
A3,6c
5c
3
Ae,7a
5a,A1
Ae
A2,5a
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
A3
Ae,6b
5c
A2,6c
Hotel
A1,5c
5b,A1
Ae,6c
3
A1
A2,5a
A1,7a
60.
A1,5c
5a
A0,4
1
A0,6c
61.
5a
A4,5c
A1
6a
A1
A1,5a
5b

A2 highway. Turn of at exit
576.
Turn left in the direction of
Monistrol de Montserrat and
continue to the T-junction, if
you turn left you will reach
the Monestir (Montserrat
monastery). Turn right and
drive in the direction of
Monestir de St. Cecilia and
the mountain railway that
takes tourists from the road
to Mirador del Moro.
Continue to the mountain
railway, park in the car park
and follow the track to the
crag.
A1,5
5,A1
59.
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
5a
2
3
6b
coronn.com
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
61. Serrat del Moro Paret
4c
5c+
360 m.
5a
Route names and grades

on the next page
5a
6a
5c
4c
5a
5b
4b
6a
4c
4c
5c
5c+
Ae
5a
5c
5b
6b
5c
4c
10
11
A2
A4
A2
Ae
5b
A1
18
A3
17
15 16
13
A2
Ae
3
6b
A1
Ae A3
6a+
6a
5b
6b
Ae
4c
6a
6a
A1
6 7
5
23
A3
5c
5c
5c
4b
5a
6b
7b
5
Ae
A2
6b
7a
Ae
A3
6a
A4
6a+
A2
Ae A3 6a
5c+
4b
5c
4c
14
6a+ 6c
Ae
4c+
6b
6a
4b
A1
6a
Ae
7a+ 4b
6a
A2
5c
5a
Ae,4
6b
6a
12
5a
5c
5c
4b
5b
5a
A2
5b
5a
5a
4c
4c
coronn.com
5a
4c
6a
5c
5a
3
3
7a
5c
Ae
4c
A4
A5
5c
5c
Ae 6a+
4b
5c Ae
A3
5c
6a
A3
6b
Ae
Ae 6a+
5b
A2
5c
7a
Ae
6a 5c 6a
6b
5c
5b
5b 5 5a
6b
Ae
4b
5c
5c
7a+
5c
A1
A2
6c
4c
5a
4b
6b
Ae
A4
5c
5c
6a
4b
5c
6a
6a
Ae
5c
6a 6c
6a
A2+
6b
A3
7a+
6a 6a
5c
A1
6a
Ae
5b
5c
5c
4c
4c
4c
Ae A3
Ae
4a
5b
6b
5b
6c
A1
19
Ae
20
6c
5b
21 22
6b
5b
6c
5b
6b+
24
6a+
25
26
61. Serrat del Moro Paret
Route names and grades

Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
Direction
Monestir de St.
Cecilia
Hotel
61.
60.

of Monserrat on the A2 highway.
Turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol
de Montserrat and continue to the
T-junction, if you turn left you will
reach the Monestir (Montserrat
monastery). Turn right and drive in
the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia
and the mountain railway that takes
tourists from the road to Mirador del
Moro.
Continue to the mountain railway,
park in the car park and follow the
track to the crag.
59.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
1. Topo Toni
2. Fil. loxera
3. A donde hostias...
4. Easy Ride
5. Reencuentros
6. Lotus
7. Gesam
8. Mgic stones
9. Expsita Tudons
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
Direction
Serra de les
Lluernes
Direction
Monestir de
Motserrat
10. Barra Lliure

11. Pany Farrera
12. Electric ladyland
13. Frangancia tropical
14. Terra i Mar
15. Antonio Garcia P.
16. Antonio Machin
17. Mirall Impenetrable
18. Viatge Sentimentale
coronn.com
19. Anglada-Cerd
20. Jan-Cullell
21. Valentin Casanovas
22. Cade
23. Olesa
24. Trollryggen90
25. David Aprico
26. Nicolau-Freixas-Benito
62. La Gorra Frgia

North and East
180 m.
1. Badalona
2. Snoopy
3. Del carles
4. Adri
5. Haus
6. ?
7. Histria Interminable
8. Sombra a la luz...
9. Free-light
10. Bella Easo
11. Opera Prima
12. Magic line
IV+
IV
IV V
IV
V+
V
V V
IV
IV

continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When
you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area.
You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla
de les Tarntules. Follow the footpath to the West and
after a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on
your left.
III
IV+
IV
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
IV
IV+
IV
V+
V
III
IV
V+
IV
III
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
V+
IV
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
68.
12
1 2
V
V
V+
V
V
63.
V+
62.
IV
64.
6a
6a
IV
V
7
IV
V
V
coronn.com
65.
9 10
V+
11
12
Sant Miquel
63. El Sentinella
North and East

125 m.
4c
4a
4a

de les Tarntules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass
sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the
footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you
will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.
1. Purple haze
2. Wagner
3. Pisters
4. Sulfric
5. Pany-Farrera
6. Santaca-Gmez
7. GEDE
A2
A1
A1
6a
5a
4b
5a
6a+
5a
6b+
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
4a
A1
A2
A1
5b
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
5a
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
68.
4c,A0
A1
5c
4c
5c
5c
5a
62.
5c
4
1
63.
64.
5a
65.
5b
5a
coronn.com
Sant Miquel
64.1. La Madalena Superior

de les Tarntules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass
sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the
footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you
will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.

150 m.
4c 5a
Northeast side
5b
4c
4c
1. Carlos
2. Simon
3. Amistat d'estiu
4. Ignasi jorba
5. Mingo Arenas
5b
5c
6a
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
5c
5b
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
4c
5a
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
4b
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
68.
4b
63.
4c
62.
4b
64.
65.
3
Sant Miquel
2
coronn.com
2 3 4
64.2. La Madalena Superior

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on
the A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat
and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat.
When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue
into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that
will take you to Pla de les Tarntules. Alternatively,
take a long walk and pass sant Miquel (more than one
hours walk). Follow the footpath to the West and after
a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on your
left.

150 m.
3
4a
Southwest side
1. Susibel
2. Super frio
3. Cuca
4. ?
5. 98 Octanos
6. Four roses
7. Pirenaic
4a
4a
4a
4a
4b
4a
4a
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
East side
A3
5a
4c
6b
6a
3
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
7b
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
Ae,5a
6b
A1,4c
68.
3
63.
4b
62.
5c
64.
65.
7
3
coronn.com
Sant Miquel
coronn.com
65. La Madalena Inferior
6a

105 m.

you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the
area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you
to Pla de les Tarntules. Alternatively, take a long walk
and pass sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow
the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes
you will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.
4a
4a
4a
4a
4a
4c
6a
4c
4c
5c
5c
North side
4c
5a
4c
5c
5a
4c
4a
5a
4b
4b
5a
4b
7b+
4c
4b
4a
4c
11
5a
4c
4b
4b
5c
17
5a
12
5b
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
6a+
10
6a
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
5a
13 1415
16
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
68.
4b
5a
4c
6a
4c
4c
7 8
coronn.com
1. oxigeno
2. ?
3. EAM
4. ?
5. Walt Disney
6. Via Apia
7. Albert
8. Llibertat positiva
9. Benson
10. Bi-Potens
11. Augusta
12. Mingo Arenas
13. Sebasti Patio
14. La que hi faltava
15. Rantanplan
16. Petit Gerard
17. Xiqui
63.
62.
64.
65.
Sant Miquel
66. Miranda de Sant Benet

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn of at
exit 576.
Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction
of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into
the area. Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the refugi and after
you have passed them, turn left in the T-junction and walk for about 200 metres
and then head for the crag. Alternatively, take the track from Monestir de Montserrat
in the direction of Pla dels Ocells. Follow the second track to the right and when
you reach the T-junction where the track is coming from the rifugi, you will find the
crag after having left the main track in the direction of the crag, located to the north
behind the crag La Panxa del Bispe.
South-East
50 m.
1. Oio-ioo
2. Stradivarius
3. Aresta Viol
4. Scherzo finale
5. Kegel
6. Allegro fortssimo
7. Mentes dementes
8. Eugenia ten cuidado
con el hacha
9. El chancro
10. Las Cndidas
11. Vctimas del cambio
12. Missatge perdut
7a
6a
6b
6c
6c+
7a
7a
6c+
6c+
6c
6a
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
1
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
6c
4c
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
5b
68.
6b+
8
9
63.
62.
10
64.
11 12
65.
6
Sant Miquel
2,3
coronn.com
5,6
67.1. La Mmia

Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the
refugi and after you have passed them, turn right in the
T-junction. After 100 metres you will pass a tower located
on your left , that is the La Trumfa crag. Continue 100
metres to reach three towers to your left, the biggest one
is this crag.
North
130 m.
North side
IV
IV
1. Silvian
2. Gam
3. Horchata de chufa
III+
V+
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
6b+
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
IV+
6b+
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
68.
V+
Ae
63.
62.
64.
65.
Sant Miquel
coronn.com
67.2. La Mmia
South
160 m.
6a+
6b
IV
15 16
7a
12
IV
7a
6b
III
6b
6a+
6b
1. El Frenao
2. El Yeti
3. ?
4. Brown sugar
5. Albert Cervera
6. Escndalo pblico
7. Haus Estrems
8. CESA
9. Kung Fu
10. Pirenaic
11. Kumbaya
12. santacana
13. Valor
14. La Maledicci
de Tutan-Jamn
15. ?
16. Mas Guash
17. Serano
6a V

Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the
refugi and after you have passed them, turn right in the
T-junction. After 100 metres you will pass a tower located
on your left , that is the La Trumfa crag. Continue 100
metres to reach three towers to your left, the biggest one
is this crag.
III
6a
7a
V
6c+
14
13
IV
6a
6a+
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
17
6c
IV+
IV
6a+
6b
6a
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
V+
66.
6c
Direction
St. Jeroni
6b
V+
IV+
6a
6b
68.
7a
Ae
V+
iii+
IV
6a
IV+
6a
6b
IV+
6a+
6c+
6a
6,7,8
62.
64.
65.
6c
coronn.com
63.
7a
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
IV
10 11
9
12
Sant Miquel
68. Roca del Cobs

If you look down on the mountain railway that arrives from
the road down in the valley, you will see a track that leads
downwards. Follow this track and at a sharp bend to the
right you leave the road/track for a smaller track and
continue straight ahead to the crag.
South
6c+
6a+
6b
6a
6a+
5c
6a
6a
5b
Direction
Pla de la Trinitat
6a+
6a
3
6b
7b
5c
7a
4
2
Direction
Monistrol de
Montserrat
67.
Direction
Pla dels Ocells
66.
Direction
St. Jeroni
68.
1. Traversa de los Dioses

2. Noches de blanco satn
3. Por Buleras
4. Matahari
5. Tepedes
63.
62.
64.
65.
Sant Miquel
coronn.com

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The island of Mallorca, provides excellent rock climbing in

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How you can use the Topos

Crag with little sun,

Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. This Topos is not a

1.2. Andonno, Paretino dell onda

52. Alduino il druido

Published 2007, May

How to find the crags, and a big warning:

On each separate Topo you will find a specified access description.

A area with a lot of caves.

How to find the crag:

23. La Chivito ( neads gear )

33. Rompe hielo

45. Me duelen los huevos

Next to route number 16 follows seven short routes.

Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro.

3.1. Poema de Roca

1. Caf cous bourbon

18. Costris climbers

How to find the crag:

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation,

3.2. Poema de Roca, Cave

19. Acceso verdes

How to find the crag:

4.1. Placas del Olimpo

4.2. Sin Futuro

How to find the crag:

5.1. Escalera Arabe

1. The final after

How to find the crag:

5.2. Escalera Arabe

27. For fite

How to find the crag:

Further up in the valley you will find

23. Espoloa Nombrada

How to find the crag:

7 and 8. Bedees, El Corral

1. Preparete en los Bodgegas

How to find the crag:

Route number 11 and 19 neads gear.

From El Chorro, drive or walk on the road over

10. Los Venenos, Pasarela de Los Venenos

10. Les Cutres

19. Victima de la Evidence

Warning, access by the

Warning, access by the

12. Cerro Cristo

Route number 1,2,3,6 and 7 neads gear.

All routes neads gear for descent, rote number 3 and 5

From the parking at Albercones ( see

Warning, access by the

Route number 4 neads gear.

How to find the crag:

Warning, access by the

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