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Building Your Own Home

Notes and Guidance

RIBA Chartered
Practice

0115 922 9831


www.julianowen.co.uk

Typical Self Build Process

Budget Calculation
Budget Planner - Typical Expenses for a Self Build Project
Item

Your
Estimate

Site Stage
Site Investigations, e.g. ground conditions
Land Cost
Solicitor's Fees
Stamp Duty

Comments

May not be required - can cost several thousands of pounds.


Typically anything from a third to a half of your total budget.

Public Liability Insurance


Site Security and Clearance Costs

Zero for land value up to 125,000; 1% between 125,000 and


250,000; 3% between 250,000 and 500,000 (applicable in
2012).
To cover accidents before building work starts.
To make the site safe. Some sites will need little or nothing.

Measured Survey of Site


Finance arrangement costs
Design Stage
Architect's Fees
Engineer's Fees
Quantity Surveyor's Fees
Planning Fees
Planning Appeal (if required)

Essential, except for the simplest sites.


Mortgage application, etc.
Could be a percentage or an hourly rate.
Usually an hourly rate.
Budget costing by a QS at this stage can be useful.
335 in 2012. No VAT charged.
Potentially expensive, if a planning consultant is necessary.

Detailed Design
Building Regulations Drawings Package
Building Regulations Local Authority Fee

Typically 200 - 300 on submission of plans. VAT is charged.

Tender package preparation


Printing and Postage Costs
Site Costs
Accommodation during construction
Building Regulations Inspection Fee
Service connections - water, gas, electricity
supply and drainage
Contingencies
Certification
Contract Management
Employer's Liability Insurance, Contractor
Insurance
House Construction
External Works
Kitchen Fittings
Moving House
New Furniture and Equipment

Can be prepared separately from tender package.

Can be several hundred pounds if it is a big house, and it is sent


to 5 or 6 contractors.
Could be rental, extra mortgage costs, or mobile-home hire.
250-300, see above regarding size of house.
Cost can vary enormously, from a few hundred pounds to many
thousands.
Minimum of 5% of build cost. Usually spent on something in the
end.
By building warranty/guarantee provider or architect.
On-site service provided by an architect (or other suitably
qualified professional).
Only if you self manage or choose DIY route - otherwise should
be main contractor's responsibility.
Estimate a cost/sqm early in the budget-planning stage.
May be essential, e.g. new road access, or driveway.
Usually a separate element of the construction.
Most people want this, to go with their new house.

All figures are approximate and are for guidance only

Working Out a Budget for a Self Build


There are some rules of thumb that are often quoted to help people work out their budget at the
beginning, such as the land should cost about one third of your budget (or a half or more if you
live in a highly desirable area). Another useful figure at the very early stage is to estimate a cost
per square foot, or square meter. This is an example of very common type calculation made:
Total Budget
= 300,000
Cost of land
= 100,000
Remainder for build
= 200,000
200,000 divided by, for example, 120/sqft = a house of 1,667 sqft.
However, this is misleading to use without being aware of its limitations. It does not allow for all
the incidental costs which should also be considered at an early stage, to estimate a more realistic
budget. If you allow for items such as external landscaping, service connections, finance cost, application fees, etc. the actual amount available just for the construction may be less than you first
believed
Build Cost Ready Reckoner
All sizes stated are approximate, for typical self build houses.
Prices are average for UK in 2012

Metric - Build Cost per Square Meter - multiplied by typical floor area

Typical House Type


Cost per Square Meter
Very Small Bungalow
Small 3 bed semi
Medium 3 bed
Average 4 bed
Good sized 4 bed/small 5 bed
Average 5 bed
Large 5 Bed

Floor
Area
70
85
115
140
160
180
200

Budget
1,100
77,000
93,500
126,500
154,000
176,000
198,000
220,000

Average
1,300
91,000
110,500
149,500
182,000
208,000
234,000
260,000

Good
1,500
105,000
127,500
172,500
210,000
240,000
270,000
300,000

High
Quality
1,700
119,000
144,500
195,500
238,000
272,000
306,000
340,000

Very High
Quality
2,000
140,000
170,000
230,000
280,000
320,000
360,000
400,000

Imperial - Build Cost per Square Foot - multiplied by typical floor area
Sqftequivalentofsqm.Figuresareslightlydifferentbecausetheyhavebeenroundedupforsimplicity

Typical House Type


Cost per Square Foot
Very Small Bungalow
Small 3 bed semi
Medium 3 bed
Average 4 bed
Good sized 4 bed/small 5 bed
Average 5 bed
Large 5 Bed

Floor
Area
753
915
1237
1506
1722
1937
2152

Budget
102
77,000
93,500
126,500
154,000
176 000
176,000
198,000
220,000

Average
121
91,000
110,500
149,500
182,000
208 000
208,000
234,000
260,000

Good
139
105,000
127,500
172,500
210,000
240 000
240,000
270,000
300,000

High
Quality
158
119,000
144,500
195,500
238,000
272 000
272,000
306,000
340,000

Very High
Quality
186
140,000
170,000
230,000
280,000
320 000
320,000
360,000
400,000

For a given standard of construction, the bigger the house, the more it will cost.
For a given size of house, the better the quality of construction, the more it is likely to cost.

Working Out a Budget for a Self Build


An estimated rice per square meter can only give an approximate estimate, but can help you to
work out a ball park indication of the cost of the building work.
Spread of Cost per Square Meter (includes multiple plots)

To a certain extent, the size


and quality of the build are
within your control. You
should carefully compare your
requirements with what you can
actually afford. If you assume
a minimum quality to get the
biggest house, you may be
disappointed, because many
people would not be happy with
the standard of the build.

800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
0

/sqm

You may decide to upgrade the quality as the project progresses, pushing you over budget.
Picking a realistic cost per square metre at the start of the project, before anything has been
designed is an art, not a science. The only way to get a reliable cost is to have detailed drawings
and specifications prepared, and then get fixed price tenders from builders. Apart from size and
quality the following factors can affect cost:
Where You Build: The difference between expensive and
cheaper areas of the UK is 10-15% or more.
Your Input: Doing some of the work yourself can save
money, but if you are self-employed or lose the chance to
earn overtime you should take account of lost earnings.
Site Constraints: You must find out as much about
the site as possible and check the likely effect on your
budget, before you are committed to buy.
Finance Costs: How effectively you arrange your finance, how good a deal you get, how well
you plan cashflow and changes in interest rates will all affect your budget.
Management: Good project management and programming will be crucial to keeping on budget.
Design Skills: A good architect does more than create an
attractive building. A successful design is also practical
and makes the best possible use of your money.
Quotations from Builders: If the tender process is expertly
managed, it will save you tens of thousands of pounds. It is
not unusual for there to be 30,000 difference between the
highest and lowest tenders for a typical self build.
Site Management: If a project is managed by an architect,
it will reduce the temptation for the builder to claim
unnecessary extras. Projects lacking professional oversight
often suffer from excessive extra charges by the builder.

How to Find a Plot 1


Finding a plot can be the most time consuming and frustrating stage of building your own home. Good plots of land are
not readily available and those that do come onto the market sell very quickly. To ease your task there are people and
companies willing to help you look for a plot, and many good
plots are to be found by the self-builders themselves. Your
perseverance can beat the commercial land-finders and small
developers.
We list just some of the methods, successfully used by self builders. The more of them that you
do, the better your chances of finding your dream plot.
Estate Agents
The first and most obvious place to look for a plot is in your local estate agents. But beware,
agents are paid by commission and are therefore not always that helpful when it comes to buying
land, due to its low cost compared to property. If they sell to a builder, they keep a regular client
happy, and get another commission when the completed house is sold. It is still worth making a
nuisance of yourself. Make it clear that you will not go away until they have sold you a suitable
site! Make sure you are informed about every plot available early on, since developers snap up
good plots very quickly.
Land Listing Agencies
Land finding agencies advertise in the self build magazines, and work by charging a subscription
for sending you regular lists of available land. There are several related internet sites which offer
land for sale, and are more up to date.
Magazines
There are several specialist magazines for self builders, and they all provide free listings of plots
sent in by agents and landowners. Some run more sophisticated databases similar to the land
listing agencies, and they all have internet sites. The exhibitions and shows associated with the
magazines also feature stands with plots of land for sale.
Planning Departments
Planning departments are obliged to show you
details of all planning applications that have been
lodged. Call in during office hours and ask to see
the Planning Register or look on their website.
Look for outline planning applications for single
residential developments. Note the names and
addresses of the applicants (usually the landowner)
and write to them explaining that youre looking
for a site and ask them if they will consider selling.
Dont worry if approval hasnt been granted yet you can always make an offer on the land subject to
planning permission being gained.

How to Find a Plot 2


Architects
If they are active in serving self builders your local architects
will be able to help to find you a suitable site, since they are often aware of the plots for sale in your area. Talk to them early
on and make them aware of your requirements. However, bear
in mind that there is a limited amount that will be done for you
unless there is either a guaranteed commission or you pay for
their time.
Builders
Many local small builders keep Land Banks of sites, and some may sell discreetly to a private
buyer. They may try to persuade you to agree to use their company for the building work as a
condition of the sale. Only allow yourself to be pressured into such a deal if you are confident
that you will obtain a good price for the construction work. As a compromise you could offer to
put the builder on your tender list.
Local Paper
There may be a particular day when land is advertised
in the small ads section. Check it regularly and act fast
if an interesting site is made available, especially if it is
being sold by a private vendor. You can also place your
own advertisement under the land wanted column, but
be very general about your requirements to maximise
the response.
Major Local Landowners
Look out for the names of local landowners who might sell small plots of land, including such
organisations as British Coal, Universities, District Councils, multinationals, and Government
departments. In addition, check the Yellow Pages for the names of farmers in the areas which
you are interested in. A simple letter or phone call will let you know you whether they have any
suitable plots.
Your Own Back Yard
Some people have become self builders simply
because they already had a plot - in their own
back garden. Alternatively, you may have friends,
neighbours or relatives who are mowing the grass
on what could one day be your ideal plot. Instant
ready cash for them, a quick end to the search for
you.
A Typical Site Survey

How to Find a Plot 3


Networking
Make sure everyone knows about your search. Business
colleages, friends, family, publicans and shopkeepers are all
potential sources of information.Word of mouth results in
many plots being sold long before even the estate agents get
to hear about them. The internet-based groups also regularly
feature postings from people selling land, so they are well
worth monitoring on a regular basis.
Find a Ruin
A property in very poor condition on a decent sized site is a prime candidate for demolition,
freeing up a perfect self builders plot, provided that the local planners will agree to replacement
with the sort of house you wish to build. Sometimes restrictions imposed by local planning policies, such as conservation areas or green belt, will reduce the potential.
Scouting for a site yourself
If you want to find a potential site that no-one has thought of selling yet, there are several rules to
follow:
1. Select a few key areas, for example two or three villages or areas of town. Limit your search to
these key areas in order to ensure that you cover them thoroughly.
2. Buy a map that shows houses, for instance OS Pathfinders, shows houses at 1:2500. You will
be able to use this map to record where potential plots are.
3. Walk around your chosen areas, because if you drive, you may miss the less obvious sites.
4. Methodically take details of sites. Note the address, location and size. Take photographs if
possible, and draw sketch plans. These details will help you to remember which site is which,
after you have visited several.
5. Deliver standard letters to houses adjacent to potential building land, asking the owner to contact you if they are interested in selling.
6. Talk to locals. Visit the local pubs and shops and ask if anybody knows of any land for sale. If
anybody seems helpful, leave a contact address or telephone number.
7. Place an advert in the local newsagents, it is very cheap, and residents in the area will visit the
shop regularly. Also, ask the newsagent to let you know of possible sites in the area.

Finally...
When you have found a site
that you like, it is crucial to
check it out thoroughly before
agreeing to buy - factors such
as ground conditions, planning
restrictions and legal restrictions.

Site Analysis 1
Once you have found a plot of land which seems right for
you, a site analysis should then be carried out. Concealed
problems could result in a perfect looking plot being useless
to you, others in the reduction of its value. Although you
can carry some of the assessment out yourself, expert help
is essential in most cases. The list of items which need to
be checked is extensive, and is not fully covered here.
Ground conditions
The condition of the ground affects its ability to support
foundations; unsuitable soil types, water levels or
contamination can cause foundations to sink or crack. The
Building Control department at your District Council can
usually indicate likely ground conditions in an area, but
ideally a hole should be dug and the ground assessed by an
engineer. Sometimes samples will need to be sent to a soil
analyst in a laboratory. If the ground is found to be poor,
in most cases the site can still be used, by building deeper
foundations. However, this will affect both the budget and
possibly the position of the house.
Water
Waterlogging is usually caused by a high water table or
the presence of a spring. It is not always obvious but some indications are willows, patches of
unusually green grass, nearby wells and road names like Watery Lane.
With most soils waterlogging does not cause an expensive problem but sometimes special
foundations are needed, costing several thousands of pounds.
Clay
Clay swells in the winter when it gets wet and shrinks in the summer
when it dries out. If a house is built on a clay site these changes in size
can cause movement resulting in cracks appearing across the building.
A site assessment will highlight the presence of clay and allow deeper
foundations to be dug to negate its effects, Once the presence of clay
is apparent the extra cost to lay the foundations the necessary 30-40cm
deeper will be hundreds pounds for an average house.
Clay and Trees
The combination of clay and trees is potentially more
costly than the presence of clay alone. Tree roots absorb
water at different rates throughout the year and therefore
they can compound the damage caused by the swelling and
1M depth
shrinking of clay. These problems still occur even if you
of clay
swells and
decide to take down the tree, due to the clay around the
shrinks
in normal
roots swelling for many years afterwards.
conditions
The zone of influence of trees extends deep into the soil.

Site Analysis 2
Y
road

pavement

X
garden

If the area A is on
theneighbours land
theirco-operation
would be needed to
ensure visibility can
be achieved

A visibility splay may be required for vehicles leaving


a site.

boundary

boundary

Distances X and Y
are stipulated by the
highway authority
and depend on the
road speed.

Building line
along front of
houses

space needed
to turn

house

road
garden
No building
line as front
of houses
do not line up

house

If the fronts of a row of houses are in line, the planners may impose a
building line.

Planning Restrictions
It is essential to check if there are any planning restrictions on the site prior to purchase since
they could limit the type of house you can build. First consult the Local Plan, a document
which all local authorities provide, describing general planning policies in an area. Next talk
to the planning officer for the area. You can also take the opportunity to examine any planning
permission notice for the site. Finally check on recently constructed houses in the area to see if
any restriction in their design has occurred. Highway restrictions are usually registered when
outline planning permission is granted to a plot. It is also advisable to check for any future
development in the area, which could turn a dream plot on the edge of a village into a nightmare
on the edge of a council estate.
Mining Subsidence
Mining subsidence can cause cracks which make houses hard to sell
and therefore plots above active mining should be carefully considered
before purchasing. It may be necessary to have bores taken to check for
unrecorded bell pits and other workings. For special cases foundations
can be built to overcome the effects.
Demolished Buildings
Land previously occupied by other buildings can have several
different problems. The land can be contaminated if the building
was used for industrial purposes, filled if the site has been made up
of spoil and rubble, or have concealed basements. Some sites make
ideal building plots, even if they are covered in debris. As long as
the foundations can be dug to the depth of the original building and
the debris is not directly in the way of where you want to build,
such sites need not add greatly to your budget.
Contaminated Land
Contamination usually occurs when a site has been used for
industrial purposes and there is a residue of contaminants such
as sulphate bearing chemicals which attack concrete. Buildings
constructed on contaminated land are very difficult to sell and
should be avoided.

Site Analysis 3
Filled Ground
Ground which has been made up
with spoil or rubble is not compact
enough to support ordinary foundations
therefore deeper foundations have to
be built below the level of the fill. If
the fill is shallow, the extra cost to
build the foundations may be little, if
the fill is deep it can be expensive to
accommodate.
Availability of Services
The availability of services is crucial to the development of a plot. If you see a plot advertised
as serviced, this can mean that the main drains and water etc. are on site ready to be connected
into. Services to check include:
Gas main: This is desirable, but not essential since both oil tanks and gas storage cylinders are
available as alternative options.
Electricity, telephone and water mains: All are essential. If these services are not available,
connection charges can be thousands of pounds and can render a site too expensive to build on.
Rainwater main drainage: Not essential if the ground can absorb the water in pits dug to collect
it, called soakaways, sited at least 5m from the house. If the ground cannot absorb the water in
this way, then the plot should be rejected.
Foul water main drainage: Again, not essential, although desirable, since septic tanks can be used
to treat sewage and leach harmless liquid into the ground. These tanks will add about 750 to
your budget. Septic tanks should be situated at least 11m from the house, so make sure your site
is big enough.
Legal Restrictions
Covenants and easements need to be checked by
your solicitor. A covenant is a restriction placed on a
site, for instance preventing building above a certain
height. An easement is a right held by the owner
of one piece of land over another piece of land,
typically the right of access to drains.
Site Features
The physical features of the site may present
challenges and opportunities for the design of your
This sunfinding compass is used by photographers to
home. The simplest are the direction of the sun and
predict which direction the sun will come from at
the prevailing wind, both of which may affect your
different times of the year. You can use it on site, or
with an orientated site plan, to work out how much
plan and the final arrangement of the house on the
sun you will get.
site. Other features, such as sloping ground, nearby
trees, the relationship with neighbouring buildings
and their uses should all be taken into account.
Site History
A fair bit of information can be gathered about a site by talking to neighbours, checking with
local builders, building control officers and the local library, where there may be maps from the
ordnance survey and others, going back at least to the 19th century.

Architects Frequently Asked Questions 1


How do I know that the person I am talking to is properly qualified
as an Architect?
The description Architect is protected by law and can only be used
by professionals who have successfully completed a 7 year training
course. A company should only use the word Architect on their
letterhead or website, if they are registered. Although unqualified
people are allowed to call themselves Architectural Designers, or
Architectural Consultants it is against the law for them to use the
title Architect. The Architects Registration Board is responsible
for registering architects and can confirm whether or not someone is
qualified (020 7436 5269 or www.arb.org.uk). This body should be
informed if you have been misled by someone into believing that they
are qualified when they are not. It regulates architects to ensure that
they provide a high standard of service, but does not do this for nonregistered designers.
What is the best way to pay an Architect?
Julian Owen Associates Architects will quote either a percentage,
hourly rate or fixed fee if clients require it. The main thing clients are
buying is the time of an experienced professional. Value for money is
only achieved if the architect spends all the time that you pay them for
on your project.
Percentage
It is easier to estimate the time required for a larger project where the
full service is needed, especially if it is for a new building. This allows
percentage fees to be quoted reliably because there is a mechanism for
increasing the fee if the client decides to increase the project size after
the architect has been appointed.
Fixed Fee
A fixed fee is not the best solution for small works. This is because at the early stages it can be
difficult even for experienced professionals to estimate precisely how much time a project will
take. If the fixed fee is too high, the client overpays. Even if a fixed fee is low, a consultant may
be tempted to avoid losing money by rushing things. Poorly considered design work is likely to
cost thousands or even tens of thousands of pounds once the builder starts work. If you agree to a
fixed fee, you should ensure that you get the full service promised, including the extra work that
may be needed e.g. to ensure that proper negotiations are carried out with the planners if they are
needed.
Hourly Rate
If you engage an Architect on a hourly rate you should ensure
that they state a range of time for each stage, identify the work
that they have allowed for, and will inform you if there is a good
reason for any possible overrun before it is billed. It is much easier
for you to check that your architect is providing good value for
money if they have to indicate and record the time they expect to
spend on your project and then justify it to you on a regular basis.
It is important to have confidence in your Architect to provide
you with good value for your money, regardless of the payment
method that you adopt.

Architects Frequently Asked Questions 2


What do Architects do?
Architects have the longest training of any construction professional,
because to qualify, aside from a high standard of creative design, they
also have to be proficient in construction techniques and detailing,
structural design, project management, cost control, planning law,
contract law and many other practical issues connected with building
design and construction. The stages of work provided in their simplest
form are: Feasibility & Survey, Sketch Design and Planning Application,
Building Regulations Application, Preparation of Tenders and Contract
Management. The latter, although always available, is often not required
for small scale alterations to a house.
How do I find a good contractor?
There are plenty of good building contractors in the East Midlands
area. After 18 years of working with local builders, Julian Owen
Associates Architects maintain a database of firms that is available to
their clients once the practice has been appointed. It is recommended
that basic credit checks are carried out on builders and that they are
asked key questions about the way that they run their business prior
to them being appointed.
How do I get the best price from a contractor?
The secret of getting accurate, cost effective prices from builders is
to ensure that a thorough set of detailed construction drawings and
specifications are prepared and that they are sent out to at least three
contractors for tender prices. Time spent ensuring that the tender
package has been properly prepared initially costs a few hundred
pounds, but because it avoids many of the potential extras on site
and ensures that the prices are tendered in competition, it will save
thousands of pounds on the building cost.
Will I save money if I use a free design service offered by a contractor?
No it will be more expensive in the end. All design work costs money and you will pay for it one
way or another. If the contractor appoints and pays the designer, you are obliged to use them to
carry out the building work because they own the copyright for the design. This means that there
is no competition from other contractors and therefore no incentive for the price to be keen or for
the standard of specification to be high. You will probably end up paying a lot more for the total
building project than you would if you paid your own designer to get competitive quotes.
What are the differences between Registered Architects, RIBA
members and RIBA Chartered Practices?
All Architects have to be registered with the ARB to use the title
Architect and some are members of the RIBA. RIBA stands for
Royal Institute of British Architects. Although it is not compulsory,
RIBA membership shows a commitment to the profession and
maintaining its standards. RIBA members can put those letters after
their name. Some practices achieve the highest standards imposed
by the RIBA and become Chartered Practices. Chartered Practices
use this description when advertising their practice.

Local Authorities 1
Planning Permission
Once you have found a potential site for your new house it is necessary
to investigate whether the site has planning permission for residential
use or whether it is in an area where such permission is likely to be
forthcoming. The local planning authority will be able to provide you
with this information. You are likely to encounter several different
situations; sites with outline or detailed planning permission for a
dwelling; sites with no planning consents, where the Local Authority
Development Plan deters development; or sites which have no
planning permissions but are in a built up area allocated to housing
as defined in the Local Authority Development Plan.
Outline Permission on the Site
If the proposed plot has outline consent then you will have to submit a reserved matters
application covering matters not included in the outline application such as building position,
size, height, appearance, and materials. Quite often, in Conservation Areas, they will refuse to
grant outline permission at all, and insist on a detailed application.
Full Permission on the Site
If the site has full permission for a house, it is unlikely to be exactly what you
want. Before purchasing, you should try to establish that any variation from the
approved plans will be acceptable to the Local Authority. If the design appears to
make limited use of the site (eg a bungalow instead of a house), ask the vendors
and planners why. It may be because of planning restrictions. Usually the vendor
will try to get permission for the maximum size of property possible, and for the
maximum number of houses possible.
No Permission on the Site Local Authority Opposition
If the proposed plot has no planning permissions
at all and the Local Authority Development Plan
has policies which specifically prohibit or deter
development, this plot could be unsuitable for you
to build a house on. It is advisable to discuss your
proposal with a planning officer or consultant and to
refrain from purchasing the land until consents have
been granted.
No Permission on the Site Local Authority
Support
If the proposed plot has no planning permissions
at all but the Local Authority Development Plan
supports the use of the land as suitable for housing
then you will probably submit a detailed planning
application straight away, for your chosen design.
This not only confirms the principle of building a
house but will also approve aspects such as building
position, size, height, appearance, and materials.

Local Authorities 2
Application
Before you make a planning application it is advisable to make contact with the Planning Officer
for the area. By talking about your proposals at an early stage you can modify any aspects of
your design, layout, orientation, landscaping, or access that might cause difficulties and help
avoid an application being rejected. Your application will include comprehensive plans and
elevations of your house and will have to be well presented since it will be shown to councillors
and neighbours who enquire about your application. Your application will also include a copy of
an Ordnance Survey site location plan, a site layout plan and a brief description of the external
materials of the building. The fee payable to the local authority to submit the application is
around 335.
Assessment
The case officer will assess your application against advice given by other departments of the
council and consultation with local amenity societies and neighbours. The case officer will then
make a recommendation to the Planning Committee which is made up of local councillors. It is
this body that is responsible for approving or rejecting your application.
Appeal
If your application is refused you can appeal to the Secretary of State. You can never say never
and there is always a possibility that you may win. An appeal is worth pursuing if you or your
architect feels your proposal to be acceptable in the light of the Local Authority Development
Plan and the councils own published detailed planning guidance. You may get into a position
where you have no alternative but to appeal, eg. if you have already purchased the site.
Otherwise, it is better either to redesign the scheme or to look for a more suitable site.
Re-submissions
Ideally, the planner should give you adequate warning if an application is about to be rejected,
and give you the opportunity to amend the plans before the decision is made.
If planning permission is refused, you can change your
scheme and submit it back to the planning committee
for no extra charge within twelve months of the first
refusal.

Building Regulations England and Wales


A building regulations application must be made
before you start building your house to ensure that
its construction meets certain standards. Technically
approval is not necessary before you start building,
however, it is advisable, as the local authority can insist
on the redesign and rebuilding of work that does not
comply with their standards. Once work has started,
Building Control needs to be notified at the beginning
of certain key events which they have to inspect, such as
the excavation of foundation trenches.

Saving Money
Saving money, or obtaining good value for money, is one of the reasons why many people choose
to build their own house. Having the right approach to a self build project, and understanding
the difference between cheap and cost effective, is crucial to achieving this objective.
Brick and Block or Timber Frame?
It is difficult to find convincing evidence that either timber frame or brick and block construction
is cheaper in itself. The construction method should be chosen to suit each individual case.
Getting the Best value for Your Money
No design or construction method is necessarily inherently cheaper than any other. It all depends
on what best suits your project. However, how you procure the design and construction can have
a big effect on the budget, and who controls it. Individually designed houses are usually more
cost effective than those bought from kit manufacturers. Firstly, the kit manufacturers have to
generate a profit large enough to cover its companys high overheads; and secondly, individually
designed houses are not tied to a single supplier of building materials and can get competitive
quotes from suppliers during the tender process.
Contracts
When a contractor is appointed, a contract must be signed in order for you to control the
construction costs and quality. Standard contracts are available, which cover the usual problems
that may arise in the course of building work. If the work over runs, is below standard, or is
not in accordance with the drawings, the contract should give you the authority to compel the
contractor to either put things right, or pay compensation.
Physically Building Your Own House
Considerable savings can be made by physically building parts of the new house yourself, since
you are not paying for the overheads of a contractor. However, specialist knowledge and skills
are required, along with a huge time commitment. It is not recommended unless you have had
previous experience in this or a similar field.
Tender Process
Savings can be made by getting the process of preparing and creating the tender package in the
right way. This means ensuring when inviting prices from contractors, that there is a high level of
competition. To make a true comparison, prices should be invited from contractors who have an
equal standard of workmanship and reputation. In order to do this you have to have knowledge
of the contractors in your area and you must describe the construction and quality of your house
in sufficient detail for an accurate price to be calculated.
Quality Control On Site
Self-builders, who have not got a complete specification, will encounter difficulties on site, when
actually building their house. Due to the lack of detailed specification, they may find that their
builder has ordered cheaper products than they require. They then have to make a hard decision;
either accept the cheaper products; or pay a premium to change to the ones they really want.
Since these premiums are not included in the quotation provided by the contractor, they can
cause financial difficulties. Such incomplete specifications often arise when planning or building
regulation drawings are used to obtain prices from contractors. These drawings do not contain
enough information for an accurate quotation.
Most of the above problems can be avoided by the professional preparation of a thorough
specification, and accurate large scale drawings of important details, such as electrical layouts,
door types, and staircases.

Saving Money
Where to Save Money
Decorations and Finishes.
Reduce the number of different colours.
Take out any special finishes, stick to plain white where you can stand it.
Do the internal decoration yourself.
Take out laminate floors and quarry tiles, and use basic vinyl and carpet until you can
afford to upgrade.
Internal Doors and Ironmongery
Cheap internal doors can be replaced very easily in the future, one at a time as you can afford it if
necessary. Keep the better-standard doors for where they are most on show, e.g. those that are off
the hallway, and use cheap flush doors elsewhere.
Kitchens
Large sums can be saved by fitting a cheaper kitchen, which can be replaced later. If you were
planning to use a specialist contractor, get the main contractor to suggest an alternative
specification. There are huge discounts available to many contractors on standard ranges of fittings.
Joinery, Skirtings and Trims
If there is any fancy joinery, simplify it.
Replace hardwood with softwood.
Built-in cupboards and wardrobes can be taken out of the contract and replaced with freestanding furniture.
Electrical Installations
The difference between a desirable electrical layout and a serviceable one is often significant.
Reduce the number of sockets.
Use cheaper light fittings, which can be easily replaced as long as the concealed wiring is in the
right position.
Sanitaryware
This is often an item where fantasy can overtake rational thought, and the reduction of the
specification to cheaper models is relatively easy to achieve.
Special Features
If you selected underfloor heating, central vacuum cleaning, solar panels, or expensive fire
surrounds, this is the point at which to reassess how badly you want them.
Garage and Conservatory
If parts of the building can easily be removed without distorting or spoiling the plan, savings can
be made. Provided you have made a substantial start on a building with full permission, you will
have planning approval to build them any time you choose in the future.
External Works
Replacing the concrete-block paving in the drive with gravel can save thousands of pounds.
Omitting the pond, or delaying planting out until the following year will also contribute a big saving.

Tender & Site Management 1


Inviting tenders is the best way to get a price for your building project,
because the competitive element encourages the contractors to price
accurately and keep their profit margin at a realistic level. To compare
prices, a detailed description of the building has to be prepared by the
architect. There is a procedure for inviting tenders which is understood by
contractors, and is designed to obtain a cost effective price for the work.
The money saved in this way usually far outweighs the cost of preparing the
documents.
1. Selecting Contractors to Tender
Contractors cannot be recommended or endorsed by the architect. Names can be suggested,
based on previous experience of the contractor. Completed work should be visited and previous
clients should be consulted if possible. Typically 4 or 5 contractors are chosen. It is unwise to
use a one-man-band for any project over about 20,000. Although they sometimes submit lower
tenders, the lack of administrative and management support, along with poor cashflow and
under-capitalisation can lead to problems. Generally, if a firm submits the lowest price, then they
should be given the job. If there are any doubts at all about the ability of the firm to carry out the
work, then they should not be invited to tender.
2. The Tender Process
Once tenders are invited, at least three weeks should be
allowed for prices to arrive, preferably four. During the tender
process it is essential that all contractors receive exactly the
same information, and that any changes are confirmed in
writing to all of them at the same time. This is the only way
that the prices received can be accurately compared. It is also
important that they are not told who the other contractors on
the list are. This is because by anticipating their competitors
pricing policies, it is possible for them to adjust their tender
price accordingly.
Contractors are asked to state in their tenders a fixed price, how long they will take to complete
the work, and when they can start. Before the lowest tender can be confirmed, the contractors
must provide a detailed price breakdown. This is to reduce the risk that they have made a mistake
in their calculations, and allow stage payments to be calculated later on after work has started.
3. The Contract
Before the contractor commences work, it is essential that
a contract is signed. An often-used contract is JCT Minor
Works if an architect is inspecting or the JCT Contract
for Home Owner/Occupiers if there is no inspecting
architect. On signing the contract, the employer (client)
takes on certain duties as well as the contractor, mainly
concerned with payment, but also takes the ultimate
responsibility and risk for the contract, although much
of the work is usually delegated to the architect. In this
respect building for yourself is very different from buying
from a developer and being simply a customer.

Tender & Site Management 2


4. Commencement of Construction
Once construction starts, on the commencement date stated on
the contract, the contractor takes possession of the site. This
means that the contractor is responsible for ensuring the site
is safe, and is also usually made responsible for managing and
securing it.
5. On Site
Assuming that the full service has been chosen, the architect will inspect once every two weeks
on average, instruct alterations and issue extra information if necessary. If work is unsatisfactory
in the opinion of the architect, it must be rebuilt. Payment may be deducted by the client if the
work overruns.
6. The Architects Role on Site
All clients are naturally keen to be closely involved
in the building work as it progresses. However,
confusion can result if the client issues instructions
directly to the contractor or tradesmen on site,
without informing the architect. There may be an
extra cost or implications for the rest of the design.
During the contract, the architect issues a series
of payment certificates to the client, and 5% of
the amount due is held back until the end of the
construction.
7. Completion
Towards the end of the construction programme, a point is reached where nearly everything is
finished, except for a few minor jobs. This is called Practical Completion. At this point, the
client becomes responsible for the building. Also half of the 5% retention money is released to
the contractor, leaving a retention of 2.5%.
8. After Completion
The 2.5% retention should be kept for 6 months after completion, for what is called the Latent
Defects Period. During this time, any defects which arise as
result of the construction must be put right by the contractor.
Most contractors are reluctant to return to the site until the end
of the 6 months, so it is important to ensure that as much work as
possible is completed before the site is vacated. At the end of the
6 months, the architect will carry out a final inspection, and note
any defective work that needs to be put right.
If these basic rules are followed, there is still plenty of scope
for clients to manage their project in their own individual way. By using these tried and tested
methods, the risk of problems or disputes developing during the project is greatly reduced.
The notes on these sheets refer mainly to the procedure for a JCT Minor Works contract or
similar, ie. it is assumed that an architect will be inspecting (ie providing the full service).
There are significant differences if there is no architect.

Copyright Julian Owen Sept 2012

Books & Magazines, etc

Building Your Own Home


David Snell and Murray Armor
Ebury Press
ISBN 0 09 188619 8
One of the first books to tackle the subject
comprehensively, this book gives a thorough
grounding in the whole process from start to finish.
Conservatories - A Complete
Guide
Julian Owen
Crowood Press Ltd
ISBN 1 86126 726 6
A detailed guide to the planning,
managing and completing of a
conservatory.

European House Now


Susan Doubilet and Daralice Boles
Thames Hudson
ISBN 0 500 28175 0
Good ideas on modern house design.
.
Home Extension Design
Julian Owen
RIBA Enterprises
1859462480
Comprehensive, step by
step guide to making stylish
alterations to your home
including extensions, loft
conversions, conservatories
and basements.

Illustrated Handbook of Vernacular Architecture


R W Brunskill
Faber and Faber
A good book for details of traditional building
techniques for the different regions of England and
Wales, with lots of Illustrations.

Self Build: Design and Build Your


Own Home
Julian Owen
RIBA Enterprises
ISBN 1859461395
A step-by-step guide to the process
of getting your own home designed
and built. By the author of Kit and
Modern Timber Framed Houses.

Kit and Modern Timber Frame


Homes: A Complete Guide
Julian Owen
The Crowood Press Ltd
ISBN 1861269501
A complete guide to geting a modern
kit house designed and built.

The Housebuilders Bible


Mark Brinkley
Ovolo Publishing Ltd
ISBN 0 9524852 4 9
This covers many of the practical issues, with detailed and
updated guidance on building costs.
The Whole House Book
Pat Borer and Cindy Harris
Centre for Alternative Technology Publications
ISBN 1 898-49 21 1
Practical advice on how to make your house eco-friendly.
Timber Frame Construction
Edited by Barbara Bedding
Publisher: TRADA Technology Ltd
ISBN 1900510324
An essential book for anyone who wishes to acquire a
detailed understanding construction of timber frame in the
UK. Very high level of technical information, that is not
readily available anywhere else.

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