lo

J^

THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
PRESENTED BY
PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

AN

ENGLISHMAN'S LIFE IN INDIA

OB,

ZxM

anJr

^iibtnturc in

6asl

tl]t

BT

HENRY MOSES,

" Let

M.D,

be remembered

tliat India is the school which has produced

most eminent men, and which mainly helped to form the
great Captain of the age the illustrious Wellington."
Our Indian

some

it

of our

Empire.

BATH: BINNS AND GOODWIN.

LONDON

LONGMAN

SIMPKIN

LOW AND
EDINBURGH

HAMILTON

WHITTAKER

SON.

OLIVER AND BOYD. DUBLIN

MDCCCUII.

J.

m'GLASHAN.

BATH

rniNTED BY BIXNS AND GUODWJK.

TO

^t fjmmMt

IJTrs.

|lotoIc]T,

THIS VOLUME

IS

BY PERMISSION INSCRIBED, WITH EVERT

SENTIMENT OF RESPECT

AND

ESTEEM.

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in

2007 with funding from

IVIicrosoft

Corporation

http://www.archive.org/details/englishmanslifeiOOmoserich

Mi6

PEEFACE.

Captain Basil Hall has somewhere observed

his Travels

and

in

Voyages, that " of all places in the

noble range of countries so happily called the eastern

world, from the pitch of the Cape to the Islands of

Japan, from Bengal to Batavia, nearly every hole and

corner of which I have visited in the course of
peregrinations, there are few which can

Bombay.

If,

my

compare with

indeed, I were consulted by one

who

wished as expeditiously and economically as possible

to see all that
oriental
*

world,

Take a run

to

was
I

essentially characteristic of the

would

say,

without hesitation,

Bombay, remain

there a

week or

two, and having also visited the scenes in the neigh-

PREFACE.

VI

bourhood, Elephanta, Carli, and

Poonah, you will

have examined good specimens of most things that

are curious or interesting in the East*
It

is

**

to this island, which abounds with landscapes

of the

roost

enchanting description, that I wish

my

particularly to direct the attention of

and here

it

may be

some guarantee

readers;

proper to observe, as affording

for the correctness of these sketches

Bombay, that

of the seasons, scenery, and society of

they have been compiled from copious notes

during a sojourn
I

have myself

favoured fragment of India.

in thnt

11 have

s-

made

here attempted to

de8cril>c.

At
much

the present time " Indian

of

our attention,

Englishmen

especially,

and

should

affairs*'
it

is

are engaging

desirable

know more

that

of the

manners, customs, and peculiarities of the people for

whom

they are legislating.

day

railways.

is

thing in

much

India.

The

great topic of the

Railways are to accomplish everyDoubtless they will accomplish

in a country almost roadless.

few months

VU

PREFACE.

ago, the

first

portion of the Great Indian Peninsula

Railway was opened for public

traffic

from Bombay

to Tannahj a distance of twenty-eight miles.

This

event has been spoken of in the local papers as a

" triumph," to which, in comparison,
in the East

all

the victories

seem tame and commonplace.

"It

will,"

they say, " be remembered by the natives of India,

when

the battle-fields of Plassay, Assaye, Meanee,

and Goojerat, have become the mere land- marks of

history.

The proud arrays of England have con-

quered and kept in subjection hundreds of millions

of people, but her power was never so boldly exemplified as on Saturday, April IG, 1853,

when the

long line of carriages, conveying nearly 500 persons,

glided smoothly and easily away, amidst the shouts

of assembled thousands.

It

was then that the im-

mense masses of the native population paid true

and

heart-felt

their

homage

to the

European conquerors.

power and greatness of

The

superstition

of

ages seemed to melt away as the gigantic reality of

steam and mechanism passed before their wonder-

VUl

PREFACE.

ing eyes.

locomotive engine conveys an idea of

calm concentrated power.

The

natives

saw

this,

and they salaamed the omnipotence of steam as

it

passed."

The moral and

religious condition of India must,

of course, constitute a topic too important to be omitted,

even in the slightest and most desultory account

India has long been ripe for the

of that country.
sickle

but alas

the mighty harvest of ignorance

and superstition has yet to be gathered

in.

That

railways will facilitate travelling and greatly lessen

the labours and sufferings of our missionaries,

The

are quite certain.

iron road will soon traverse

those vast jungles,

"

Where many a grave

Where

Who

neglected

lies,

sleep the soldiers of the Lord,

perished 'neath the sultry skies

Where

first

they preached that sacred word.

" But not in vain

their

Life's dearest

toil

was

blest,

hope by them was won,

A blessing is upon their rest,

And on

we

the work which they begun."

\^

PREFACE.

May

IX

the prospect of this speedy communication in

India, give heart to those labouring for the regene-

ration of the Hindoo,

and

incite those at

home, who

bear not the heat or burden of the day, to renewed

In

exertions in assisting so noble a cause.

with every well-wisher of the land

common

that was our

temporary resting-place, we bid the missionary

God

speed.

With an
youthful

especial

readers

foreign lands

are

to

view to the benefit of those

whom

authentic

accounts

of

generally peculiarly attractive, I

have endeavoured, while treating of the " clime of

the East," to lead their minds to the contemplation
of

Him, whose goodness and greatness

in the grace
clime,

and beauty with which, in that

external nature

believe this

are reflected

is

so profusely adorned.

fair

volume may with advantage be placed in

the hands of the young, and not prove a valueless

present to

The

those intended for the Indian service.

cadet, writer, or merchant, will find

some

useful

hints about the preservation of health, the necessity

PREFACE.

of early rising, of daily exercise, temperance, and

regularity of

in India.

life

has also been attended

I

would add,

The

article of clothing

to.

be thought

in conclusion, that if I

to have lingered too long

" voyage out," or

upon the

to have dwelt with needless minuteness

which have often been described by

for the East,

my

apology must

on matters

travellers

be, that

bound

having been

myself deeply impressed by the ever-changing scenes

which the ocean, during a long voyage, never

present

the observant spectator,

to

to

have been

anxious to communicate those scenes to

fails

my

readers,

and more particularly the juvenile portion of them,

being

persuaded

that

the

impressions

produced

upon the mind by the wonders of "the Great

Deep," are no

less salutary

than they are vivid and

abiding.
" Oh

wliat precious things there be,

Shrined and sepulclu'cd in thee

Gems and

gold from every eye

Hid within thy bosom he.

Many

a treasm-c-ladcn bark

Bests within thy caverns dark

vr-"

PREFACE.

And where

towers and temples rose.

Buried continents repose

Giant secrets of thy breast,

With
With

their thousand isles of rest.

their brave

and beauteous foims.

Undisturbed beneath thy storms,

In a safe and peaceful homo.

Where the mourner may not come.

Nor the stranger rudely tread.
O'er their calm and coral bed.

Where

the ocean biuied hes,

May no monuments

arise.

For thy bosom beare no trace

Of our evanescent

On

race.

thy wild and wandering wave.

Bloom no

laurels for the grave

O'er thy dread unfathomed gloom.

Lower no

trophies for the tomb.

But there comes a day of dread.

To

reclaim thy thousand dead

Bursting from thy dark control.

While in

fire

thy billows

roll,

Shall thy countless multitude.

Soar from out thy shiinking flood."

Appleby, Westmoreland.

XI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

I.

PAGE.

Glance at Porto Santo.

Introduction.
gica.

Their food and habits.

Exocetus
Vast

fields of sea-weed,

of the crew.

on the ocean.
frigate.

visits to

A man

Land-sharks and

Mada-

Sorrow

Situation of

Early impressions.

Bombay.

harbour.

Strange people.

for India 1

Reflections

bungalow

A tiger

at Colabah.

Principal buildings in the Fort.

. .

II.

chat with the reader.

Beautiful scenery.
friend's

Bombay

Portuguese and Charles

Moguls.

What have we done

My

First impressions of India.

CHAPTER

one.

overboard

passengers.

sea-gulls.

Vasco del Gama.

of India.

the English coast.

Have the sharks eaten him ] Sunday

Our sea-service. The Sesostris steam-

Her deck

the Second.

Holothuria physalis.

Search after the lost boy.

gascar at sunset.

Goa.

Their

volitans.

ProccUaria pela-

Resources

but a stufied
Its flowers.

A great fire.

Street

CONTENTS.

XIV

PAOE".

Minah and other birds

architecture.

Kindness to animals.
pigeons. A word on

Bad

Frith's.

George the Fourth's bed-

may be purchased

Extravagant rivalry.

Markets.

in them.

An

cleanliness.

Native bazaars, and what

stead.

and their
idle hour at

children

Little

speculations.

towns.

in

Hindoo

One man with two sets of fingers. How

to make a box and inlay it. The Potdars, and change
Opium poisoners. The Arabian rosefor a rupee.
customs.

water

Sweet-meat vendor.

sellers.

Popish seminary.

Parsee children.

Blind beggars.

Mohammedan

Devotees
and lepers.
Comwallis and his friends. Bombay
rogues.
and dock-yard. Sally ports and sepoys

CHAPTER
Climate.

South-west monsoon.

your house
quins.

and

Cripples

temples.

in order.

Why

36

III.

Mangoe showers.

Letters and post-men.

off the

Clearing tents

castle

Esj)lanadc.

Put

Paljm-

Warm

was called a Griffin. The rains at

Appearance
Atmospheric changes.
last descend.
Nature
of the ocean. Awful thunder and lightning.
Strife of the
The stm darkened.
agitated.
is
Houses
Tempest terrific to behold.
elements.
The floods. Scene pregnant
shaken in the Fort.
clothing.

with horrors.
rest for the

Flying bugs and hideous spiders.

pimkaha

What

the poor natives suffer

A glance

from our bungalow. WonFlowers and

derfid changes in the vegetable world.
Golden oriole and jungle-cock. Shere Khan
fruits.
at this season.

Cool
good works. Neglect of old tanks.
A peep into the sick
breezes and Delhi shawl.".

and

his

XV

CONTENTS.

PAGE.

man's chamber.

Jellies

and sweet

Poisonous miasma.

eat mangoes.

of Cocoa-nut-day.

How

peas.

Hindoo

to

festival

Farewell

Offeiings to the ocean.

71

to the rains

CHAPTER
The

old temples of India.

caverns.

Why

Mr. and

journepngs.

Hypogsca, or subterraneous

Traditions of the East.

Temples of Aboo.
tics.

IV.

pic-nic.

islands

Mi-s.

Priests

and people.

were selected.

H.

Pious

Missionary-bit fana-

Beauties of an Indian morning.

Scenery in the harbour.

Native boats.

Sea birds

and picturesque objects. Closer view. of Elephanta.

The landing. Delicious shade from the sun. Stone
horse and elephant. The handiwork of Father Time.
Tamarind tree and flowers. Punkah painting. Native
Excavated rock.

village.

The great temple

scape changes.
of

Description

tiger.

cavern.

Land-

Birds of night.

of

Tale

of Elephanta.

the

of

interior

the

Parting with friends

99

CHAPTER

V.

Farewell to the monsoons. Silk cotton tree. Palms. De-

canna bean.

Odoriferous pandanus, orchids. Anxiety

of the agriculturist.

of the year.

Early risers in

Heavy dews

of

flowers.
lizard.

Insects.

Large

night.

Tree

kites.

Dry and wet crops

Bombay. Muggy days.

Imgation.

Drooping

of

and
Bungalow

leaves

lizard, its habits.

Death

Snakes, cobra manilla.

of an officer from the bite of a carpet snake.

pions.

Spiders.

Child killed.

Centipedes.

Scor-

Hornets

CONTENTS.

XVI

PAOE.

and wasps.

Natural scavengers, their

Portuguese

cooking-house.

smell

Fine sense of

traps.

The woods

fulvous vulture.

in

your

visits to

noon.

at

Asiatica.

plumage of birds.
Loss of song.
Aleodo
Emerald Fly -catchers. Green Woodpeckers.

Butcher

birds.

Brilliant

Hoopoe.

Wanton

Sandpiper.

de-

struction of Indian birds

142

CHAPTER
The hot

Children

from

their

Aunmgzebe.

to the sun.

and

bom

Anglo-Indians.

Their separa-

in India.

Necessity

parents.

voyage

effects of sea

of exercise.

Hindoo's idea of happiness.

poor obliged to
Bitter beer

Good

air necessary.

to invalids.
tion

Depressing days.

Boaaon.

Change of

VI.

Wasliing at the tanks.

rise early.

spirit drinking.

Good example

The

Dangers of exposure

of the natives.

How

to

warm

climates.
ward off sickness.
Luxury of a cold bath. Sleepy servants. Give your
dogs exercise. The blessed morning breeze. TiflSn.
Dress coats and white jackets. Dancing. The horechair jupe. Dinner parties and their miseries. Wages
of domestics. Cooks and cookery. English dishes.

Flannel valuable in

Preserved meats.
jars

and

How

wine-coolers.

hospitality.

make a

fortune.

Porous

Duties of the Abdar.

Indian

to

Boarding-houses.

163

CHAPTER VIL
How
and

Englishmen

Expense of palanquins

Hindoo gentlemen. Variety of charReligious rank and distinction. Feasts and

travelling.

acters.

lose caste.

CONTENTS.

XVll
PAGE.

Bhagabatee and Doorga.

festivals.

The

Kartek and Ganesh.

The darkness

trosities.

fate of a goddess.

The mystic

betrothraents.

Native holidays.
Infant

mons-

Frightful

fire.

Peep

of the Hindoos.

at

Tents of the Commander-in-chief

the Esplanade.

Bands of music.

Portable houses.

dering people.

drunken English

Singulai'

wan-

sailor, his fate.

The power of a
hungry mosquitoe. Tipula plumicomis. The prayers
Disadvantages of living in tents.

on the

sea-shore.

Devout Pareees.
What can we do individually]

Arabian Jew.

England's ten talents.

Have we done our duty to India? Worthy bishops.

The presidency of Bombay. Its extent and population.
Mount Meru
182

CHAPTEK
Departure of day.

snake
Sudra.

charmer.

Mohammedan

The cunning

creatures.

Covering a body.

Burning

it.

of living
Vultures.

Friends of the de-

Children's indifference to the dead.

strewed with

human

bones.

jjoor

The music

Infinity

Back Bay.

Funei-al pyres.

devotee.

Large edible bat and beetles.

Elater noctilucus.

Indian

Sepoy guards and

Mosques.

the begging crowds.

of Nature.

parted.

Rapid advance of night.

Deserted roads.

nights peculiar.
flight of

VIII.

Hindoos

Shore

on death.

Government proclamations.
Nizam of Hyderabad.
Do the Brahmins encourage self-immolation 1 Dangers
of the coast. Fate of the Donna Pascoa. Romantic
story of Colabah.
perty.

and

The

soldiers.

English residences,

nest of the

Tailor-warbler.

Parsee pro-

Barracks

Predisposing causes to cholera.

Con-

CONTENTS.

XVlll

PAGE.

English chapel and old

Sick bungalows.

tagion.

tombs.

and cowries.

Sea-shells

Land-crabs, their

habits and haunts.

207

CHAPTER

IX.

Three classes of

Establishment of a wealthy merchant.

maids and Ayehs.

Affection of
Indian nurses, their love for your children. Sketch
of a Dobie, or washerman. How to get up linen.
servants.

Ladies*

Advice to new

Sketch of the Bheestie, or

arrivals.

The grunt

water-bearer.

The Delhi brooch.

at

your bedroom door.

Temptations

to

be avoided.

His

Sketch of the Dergie, or plaiu-scwing-man.

beautiful work.

English ladies and poor husbands.

A box

for stupidity.

on the car

old favourite.

Sketch of Meeta and Metraue sweep-

Poor despised people.

ers.

reside in towns.

executioners.

An

Indian butter.

The

Chandalas forbidden to

Their

calling.

first

visitor

Grave-diggers and
at

your bungalow.

Troubles with superstitious servants.

The

Molly, or

The Gharry-wallah and his horses. Indian

Their tools and workmanship.
Wealth
jewellers.
and talents. How to make a gold chain. Danger of
gardener.

232

fraud

CHAPTER
Sketch of the Guebres.

X.

City of Yezd.

Atishgar,

banishment of the Fire-worshippers out of

Their dissent.

The Rusmiz and Cadmiz.

tion with a Parsee.

of

My

imitating English

Persia.

Conversa-

friend Nesserwanjee.

customs.

and

Love

Outcasts rejected.

XIX

CONTENTS.

PAGE.

How

Dockmehs, or
Orattianes and Ari-

they dispose of their dead.

temples of

Religion.

silence.

The Zendavista.
Devout Parsees.
spirit.
The two
Sacred cord.

manes.

Jeejeebhoy,

his

Ormnzd and the

The water called
converts.

munificent

gifts

zor.

Jamsetjee

Sir

of

great

charity,

his

knighthood, and opinions of his friends, his wealth

Lord Keane and the invitation to a

Parsee ladies. Town and countiy house. Visit
ball.
Elegant rooms
to Sir Jamsetjee's house in the Fort.

and

carriages.

and

furniture.

Prodigal expenditure at feasts, &c.

A bridegroom's folly.

jewels and diamond necklace.

dead.

Our

Her

Visit to the bun'a-babee.

Mourning

for the

252

salaanft

CHAPTER XL
Bombay

Jews, are they true Israelites'?

White Jews.

My opposite

neighbours.

Arabian and
Stolen peeps

and how they

spend their time. My favom-ite boy. His dress and
Ayeh. Scene changes. A few words about a cat and
a dog. Tasso deserts me. Hospital for animals, and
behef in the transmigration of souls.
Tasso's iin-

across

tlie street.

faithfulness.

Tlieir habits, dress,

Little

dogs have strange fancies.

o'clock at the Jewish family's house.

and
the window.

Prayers,

and sweet music. My last look at

Sorrow at separation from the Jewish child.
mnocent and happy life

songs,

Six

Their

278

CHAPTER XIL
'a canter over the sands. Government house
Point and Parell.
Unhealthy situation.

at

Malabar

Island of

XX

CONTENTS.
PAOK.

Salsette, its antiquities,

dowry.

not a part of the Infanta's

Village of Walka-es-Warre.

Tanks, priests,

and people, there. Infatuated mendicants. A few

words on ablutions. Palma Christi, or castor-oil tree.

My visit

Bundarries.

to the Toddy-drawers.

Silence

Hour to collect toddy. Losing your

road.
Bombay cathedi-al. Punkahs, and short and
long services.
The dead quickly buried. Jackal

in the woods.

i-esurrectionists.

a Raraoosie.
in

my

guese

tent

Sudden

Borahs.

night visit from

Robbery

The

cook's Portu-

police, a

useless body.

escape.

Bombay

Public suspicions and opinions.

awful revelations, &c.

Bores and pedlara.

and Pedro's

blessings.

deaths.

Investigation

and
291

Conclusion.....*.

APPENDIX.
On

the folly and danger of loading children with valu-

able ornaments.

Bombay

Account of the Mohurrum

festival in

322

LIFE IN INDIA.
CHAPTER

I.

" Roll on, thou deep

and dark blue ocean roll

Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain
Man marks the eai'th with ruin his control
Stops with the shore upon the watery plain

The wrecks

are all thy deed, nor doth remain

shadow of man's ravage, save his own,

When, for a moment, hke a drop of rain.
He sinks into thy depths with bubbUng groan,
Without a grave, imknelled, imcoffined, and unknown."
Bybon.

VOYAGE

there

is,

in

to India has often been described

truth,

little

variety in

scenes on board a large vessel.

the

and

every-day

The passengers you

meet with are pretty much of the same stamp, and

have been depicted, times out of number, by the

MISFORTUNES IN THE CHANNEL.

thousand and one voyagers to the East, who have

given us amusing portraits of the old

officer

returning

to join his regiment after a leave of absence;

young

of the

cadet, fresh

and

from the military college

of Addiscombe, with his head

full

of the Wellington

despatches and of Bengal tigers.

According to the good old custom, I kept an

accurate diary, and was as punctual in noting

every

little

event, as our

mate was

first

down

in recording

in his log-book the progress of the ship or the state

of the weather every twenty -four hours.

over the leaves of this diary, I find but

extracting.

It

storms, and of
leave of

all

that

is

but a record

many

little

worth

sunshine and

sad reflections upon taking

was near or dear

The journal of my

of

In turning

first

to

me on

earth.

week on board ship presents

a dreary catalogue of troubles, occasioned by the loss

of masts and sails in a gale of

channel

by the sea pouring

of the deck, and deluging

my

by other discomforts peculiar

been

fitted

in

to

wind coming down

through the seams

bed and cabin

new

and

ships that have

out in a hurry, and with but

little

regard

to the comfort or convenience of those destined to

live so

treats

many months on board

were of short duration

of them.

and a few

But these
fine

days

set us all to rights again.

The

carpenter, a clever

and active man, was not

AN ATTEMPTED MUTINY.
long in completing the

new

spars to supply the place

of those carried away, and our cabins were effectually

secured against any further intrusions of the sea.

Our crew
and Scotch

consisted of a mixture of English, Irish,

sailors

and we had not been long on

board before the captain discovered that there were

One

two or three bad characters amongst them.

morning, as we were sitting at breakfast, he was

summoned on deck and informed by

these men,

had been selected as spokesmen by the

was

their determination to

work only

rest,

in their

who

that

it

watch;

them below

that he

was quite

deck

he thought proper, but work at any other

if

at liberty to confine

Having delivered

time they would not.

this piece

of information, the mutineers returned to the fore-

and the captain very coolly

castle,

and finished

As soon

cup of

his

the

as

coffee

sat

down

again,

with us in the cabin.

was drawn, the mate was

cloth

ordered to get the irons out, to load with ball three

pistols,

and to see that

cutlasses

were placed con-

veniently in every state-room, in case they should be

wanted in a hurry.
preparations,

we waited

watch, to see
to their duty.

much

Having

if

finished these warlike

the issue of the afternoon's

the crew would turn out as usual

Two

bells

were at

to our surprise, every

The malcontents saw

last struck, and,

hand appeared on deck.

that they

had a determined

AMUSEMENT ON A LONG VOYAGE.

deal with in

character to

and had thought

orders at once.

As

the
it

person of Captain

better to attend to his

a punishment, he gave them

an extra hour's work

all

and the two ringleaders were

to holy-stone the decks until they begged his

set

pardon.

One condescended

do

to

this the following

morning, but the other rebel laboured at this hard

and

distasteful

work

was

sufficiently

broken to induce him to ask forgive-

ness for past offences.

for eight days, before his spirit

Thus were harmony and good

order once more restored on board our vessel, and, I

am happy

to say, they were not interrupted again

during the voyage.

As we had

a good library on board,

profitably passed in reading,

and

my

in noting

time was

down every

event that had the slightest novelty to recommend

it

to notice

those

who

for the sea has a

thousand charms to

travel for instruction, or with a laudable

desire to increase their acquaintance with the world

which they inhabit

and, though a long voyage

may

eventually tire the most sanguine inquirer in the

pursuit of knowledge, yet a large and marvellous

page of nature

is

the great waters.

said, that

open to him whose business

Of such

man

it

may

is

in

truly be

he shall " see the wonders of the Lord."

The change

of temperature which begins to be

very perceptible as you draw near the lovely group

THINGS SEEN.

when you

of the Madeiras

first

put on the cool white

and enjoy your walk upon the high poop,

dress,

is

pleasing relief after the fogs, rains, and chilly nights,

which have depressed your

and made you

The young voyager

with everything.

dissatisfied

now

spirits

is

delighted with the different colours of the sea.

When

viewed in hazy weather, a yellow tinge

spread over

dark brown

it

is

is

but as he enters the torrid zone, a

the prevailing colour.

But these hues

are continually changing, for the bottom of the ocean

has a wonderful influence over them

when

flection of the sun,

the sky

is clear

and the

re-

and serene,

decks the mighty expanse in the most refreshing

green.

When

he

reflects that this

immense body of

water which surrounds him occupies a space on the

surface of our globe greater than that which

is

called

dry land, and covers an extent of 148,000,000 of

square miles, he

is lost

in the contemplation of so

sublime a work.

Again, there
pale

moon

is

his old

which

that you scarcely

fact,

that

you

when viewed through

looking

know

see,

so bright

her again.

and

the clear,
beautiful,

Everything, in

as the ship steals through the

waste of waters towards

ness

friend, the calm,

always appears to the English

eye unusually large,

tropical atmosphere

welcome

and novelty about

its

destination, has a fresh-

it

which delight and en-

WONDERS OF TRAVEL.

chant those

who

are

interested in

the

wonderful

works of God.

To quote
"

One

as

the words of

tlie

ilhistrious

Humboldt,

experiences an indescribable sensation when,

we approach

the equator, and especially in passing

from one hemisphere to the

other,

we

see the stars

with which we have ])een familiar from

approach the

gradually
appear.

mind

and

finally

dis-

Nothing impresses more vividly on the

of the traveller the vast distance which sepa-

rates liim

horizon,

inftmcy,

from his native country than the sight of

new finnament.

The grouping

of the large stars,

the scattered nebulae rivalling in lustre the milky-

way, together with some spaces remarkable for their

extreme darkness, give the southern heavens a peculiar aspect.

The

sight even strikes the imagination

of those who, although ignorant of astronomy, find

pleasure in contemplating the celestial vault, as one

admires a fine landscape, or a majestic

With-

site.

out being a botanist, the traveller knows the torrid

zone by the mere sight

of

its

vegetation

and,

without the possession of astronomical knowledge,

perceives that he

is

not in Europe, when he sees

rising in the horizon the great constellation of the

Ship, or the phosphorescent clouds of Magellan.

In

the equinoctial regions, the earth, the sky, and

all

their garniture,

assume an exotic character."

PORTO SANTO.
It

was a lovely morning that revealed to me the

beauties of Porto Santo, the

first

land which

we had

seen since bidding adieu to dear happy old England.

The pangs

of separation had in a great

passed away, and I

now began

to look

measure

more soberly

my present lot, trusting alone to the goodness

of Him who could cast it in pleasant places.
I went

upon

on deck
mate,

at 6 a.m.,

and ascertained from our second

who had charge

of the watch, that

only eight miles from the shore.

a

more

we were

I cannot conceive

lovely picture than this singular island pre-

sented as the rising sun illumined the peaks of

lofty mountains,

and dispelled the mists that

its

still

floated in fleecy clouds over its tranquil valleys.

There are several small islands scattered about

Porto Santo, and they

some volcanic

all

eruption.

appear to be the work of

Porto Santo

I believe,

is,

the smallest inhabited island of the Madeira group.

It produces little corn, but its valleys feed

of oxen, and wild hogs are found on

its

numbers

hills.

Its

exports are few, and chiefly consist of wax, honey,

and dragons' blood; while a small grape supplies

a poor thin wine to

We

its

Portuguese cultivators.

saw Madeira, that grave of England's con-

sumptive children, in the distance, but could form

no idea of

its

extent or elevation.

died away, we were becalmed

many

As

the wind had

hours under the

THE STORMY PETREL.

The sky was

of this land.

lee

and the

cloudless,

sea so clear and transparent that the eye could penetrate

many fathoms

About

into the depths below.

3 P.M. the thermometer

rapidly,

fell

and

hands

all

were ordered on deck, to prepare for a coming

Fortunately the wind was in our favour,

squall.

and the sudden appearance of Mother Gary's chickens,

congregating under the stern of our

vessel,

confirmed

the captain in his former belief that the fine morn-

ing was only a foxy one, and

we might

expect

still

a continuance of boisterous weather.

few words about the stormy petrel of these seas

may

prove

readers.
bird,

and

acceptable

to

some

The proceUaria pelagica

my

of
is

j)retty little

about six inches iu length, with head, back,

tail,

of a coal-black

verse bar of white

tint,

and with a broad trans-

on the rump.

The

secondary quills are tipped with white.

to

younger

scapulars and
It delights

skim the waves of the boundless Atlantic, and

so near the surface as to appear as if running

flies

upon the water.

These birds feed principally on

the small marine mollusca, &c., that are cast upon

the surface.

awful storms,

man
"

to stand

observed them in the

have

when

it

was

scarcely possible for a

upon deck from the fury of the

Up and down

up and down
From the base of the wave to the
!

most

gale.

billow's crown,

ITS HABITS.

And

amidst the flashing and feathery foam.

The Stormy

A home,

such a place

if

home
may be,

Petrel finds a

For her who

lives

on the wide, wide

On the craggy ice, in the frozen air,

And only seeketh her rocky lair
To warm her young, and teach them
At once

o'er the

The stormy
tered

to spring

waves on their stormy wing."

congregate under the shel-

petrels

of vessels, where

sides

sea,

they are in a great

measure protected from the wind, and find plenty of

food raised up by the action of the rudder, and upon
the refuse thrown overboard from the cook's galley.

They have the power of

an

oily

and

foetid matter.

caught with a pin or

These birds are easily

fly- hook,

baited with a piece of

over the side or in the wake of the

fat pork, trailed

ship,

ejecting from their stomach

from a thin

line.

veneration for these

Sailors have a superstitious

little

wanderers of the deep, as

they fancy their appearance prognosticates foul wea-

But

ther.

I have observed

them on the

finest days,

and even when we were becalmed upon the

line.

Ornithologists have described four varieties.

the procdlaria
first

leechi,

has a fine forked

tail,

One,

and was

discovered by Mr. Bullock in the Island of St.

Kilda, whither

many

of

the species resort in the

breeding season.

The

nest

of

the procdlaria pelagica

is

placed

THE HOLOTHURIA PHYSALIS,

10

among
laid

is

loose stones, where a single egg of pure white

in the

month

They have been

May.

of

found in many parts of the islands north of Scotland,

and on the coast of the

Isle of

Man, but quit

these stations in October or November, for

warmer

latitudes.

Having passed the

Deserters, another picturesque

group of islands connected with Madeira, the next

my

fresh object that engrossed

holothuria physalis, or

commonly

called

little

was the

attention

men-of-war, as they are

by nautical people, from

semblance to a vessel under canvas.

their re-

We

must

have sailed through thousands of them in an hour.

They

all

had their

steering in the
sail

is

expanded, and Avere

sails

little

same direction

as our ship.

Their

a thin, semi-transparent membrane, extend-

ing diagonally from one side of the animal to the

other.

When examined

tub of water, on deck,

in a

appeared to be almost white

and

but in certain

lights,

in its native element, its edges are tinged

by the

most
the

it

and crimson

brilliant blue

body are suspended numerous

tacula, or

feelers,

that are

From

reflections.

hair-like

constantly

engaged in

entangling the food upon which the animal

When

disturbed in the

folded up, and the

water, the

little

sail

ten-

is

lives.

rapidly

man-of-war sinks out of

FLYING-FISH.

We

sigbt.

caught

many

of tliem in a bucket

I was charged not to handle

them

after.

lofty billows,

arm

for

was surprised to see these

delicate little creatures

but

incautiously, as

they would sting me, or paralyse the

hours

some

frail

and

mounting securely over the

though a brisk breeze was carrying us

along at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour.

must not omit

my

in

catalogue the beautiful

flying-fish {exocetvs volitans), so often described

Five days after our departure from Porto

travellers.

we got

Santo,

into their track,

them springing
feet

and saw shoals of

into the air, a height of ten or twelve

they would flutter horizontally some distance,

The

and then drop heavily into the ocean.

pectoral fins act as wings to this animal

the

swimming

so small a

mosphere

The

or air bladder

fish, their

is

flight,
is

the sea

of unusual size for

many

The dolphin,

enemies.

waging incessant war with

and no sooner do they take to

than the prowling frigate-bird, or wide-awake,

ready to dash

down among them, and

once more to seek shelter in their

Some

and as

easily accounted for.

flying-fish has

in

is

large

extreme buoyancy in the at-

albacore, boneta, &c., are

them

by

own

drive

them

native element.

of our crew were very anxious to attract a few

on board of our
or two of

vessel

them got

and during the night one

into the chains,

and held a

TWILIGHT WITHIN THE TROPICS.

12

lantern out for that purpose

but, after an hour's

patient watching, the plan was

said

to

given

up,

though

The

be at times a very successful one.

following night, three or four fish flew across the

ship,

and three of them, striking the

sails, fell

dead

upon deck, and were served up the next morning

The one

for breakfast.

partook of was about ten

inches long, and though nicely dressed, had

flavour or finnness to

recommend

it

little

as an article of

diet.

We

have a few instances on record of the flying-

fish visiting

our English seas.

that a fish of this genus

Pennant informs us

was caught

in June, 17G5,

at a small distance l>elow Caermarthen, in the river

Towy ; and
was taken

Jennings states that a second specimen

in July,

823, in the Bristol Channel, ten

miles from Bridgewater.

were seen
bound.

many

Portland Island, by a vessel outward

off"

Tlie

flying-fish

In August, 1825,

air

in

the swimming-bladder of the

has been supposed to be pure oxygen

but Baron Humboldt found

it

to consist of ninety-

four parts of azote, two of carbonic acid, and only

four of oxygen.

The
present

close

and dawn of day within the tropics

many

shipboard.

magnificent sights to a spectator on

The

more southern

brilliant

latitudes

constellations visible in

the

brief

though

fearful

FIELDS OF SEA-WEED.
storm

the

calms

soul- depressing

countered on the line

13
so

often

and the strange and

en-

solitary

birds that hover around your course, hundreds of

miles from any

known

land

all

supply food

to

mind

to

the imagination, and tend to elevate the

the great Author and Governor of

may

It

out of place here to speak

return voyage

from alluding to the vast

that for
to

little

we saw on the

of what
refrain

be a

progress

its

floating fucus

is

but I cannot

vessel, as

almost

through the water.

This

supposed to be detached by storms

from the sub-marine rocks on which

grow

of sea-weed

fields

two days so surrounded our

impede

things.

all

is

it

said to

but that which we fished up presented

all

the appearance of belonging to a healthy growing

plant

nor could I detect any roots, &c-, which

might have induced

me

to suppose that

it

had been

once attached to the rocky bottom of the ocean.

Our

captain said

it

was carried by the great current

out of the Gulf of Mexico

but there

is

Many

of

appeared to be quite familiar with

its

tion

for

this

supposition.

ate large quantities of

it,

and said

it

no foundathe

sailors

appearance,

was the tropic

grape that grew in Neptune's vineyard, and cured

all diseases.

Two
weed

great banks of this singular stringy-looking

are said to occur in the Atlantic Ocean.

One

of

14

COLUMBUS.

them

is

often

met with

to the west of the meridian

of Fayal, one of the Azores,

other has not been

that

us,

tells

latitude

it

but the

vegetates within forty degrees of

on each side the equator, and that

always pass through one

Phoenicians as

the

field

is

related of

attended

him on

of

or the Cape
It

it.

vessels

was known

Weedy Sea, and the

call it Mar de Zaragossa.

the

Spaniards and Portuguese

It

the

Burnet

correctly ascertained.

homeward bound from Monte Video

to

site of

Columbus, that
his first

the

who

sailors

voyage of discovery to

America, on passing through these

fields

of sea-weed,

urged him to proceed no further on the voyage, but

to return

home

again, as they superstitiously believed

was designed by God to put a

that this hindrance

stop to his wild schemes.

It is astonishing

and

what a

trifle will

create a bustle

afford fresh subject for conversation at sea.

dead whale floating

past, a ship in the distance,

passing shower, or even a shooting-star,

in for their share
ship's

all

of discussion and debate

A
a

come
for a

company, generally speaking, are garrulous,

and fond of making the most of everything that

may

occur to break in upon the monotony of a long

voyage.

Calms are favourable seasons

which

is often,

for

conversation,

as I have remarked, of a

somewhat

MADAGASCAR.

15

Few

melancholy and dispiriting character.

persons

can form an idea of the dreadful gloom that

over a ship's crew

when a death

cast

is

occurs on board

and more particularly so when that death has been

T

accidental.

had once the misfortune to be a

and

participator in a scene of this sad description,

from

to be aroused

ment

" A

man

my

bed by the

overboard

We

"

announce-

fearful

were creeping

quietly along the eastern coast of Madagascar,

had been amusing

the

ourselves,

by viewing from the poop that

large

evening before,

and mountain-

ous island through a powerful telescope.

sighted

first

it

at noon,

we
fires

onwards.

We

had

and the varied scenery was

continually changing, as, with

stole

and

a light

Not being very

far

breeze,

from the

we

coast,

could easily descry, even with the naked eye,

upon the

blazing

shore,

and

objects

moving

around them.

The mate, who appeared

markably long
glass things

that

vision,

and who saw through his

which no one

human

sacrifice

to be gifted with a re-

else could

was

see,

declared

going forward at

amusing to watch
k)articular spot named, and it was
he anxiety of the apprentice boys to witness this
xtraordihary scene,

and to obtain permission to

look through the glass at the cannibals.

I shall

never forget the picturesque appearance of the moun-

AN ALARM.

16
tains,

bathed as their strange and ragged forms were

Some

in the rich hues of sunset.

tapered to a point

of these lofty hills

others bore an

odd resemblance

As

to towers or gigantic columns.

far as the eye

could reach, mountains overtopped mountains,

till

the summits were undistinguishable in the purple

haze of approaching night.

on the quarter-

I sat

deck for some hours, watching

this

moving panorama;

until at length darkness pitilessly shut out the lovely

prospect.

We

had

all

been very merry that day, for we had

caught the trade wind again

welcomed the meeting with a

pagne at dinner.

and the captain had

bottle of noble

The crew had an

cham-

extra allowance

of grog, and the boys had something very tempting

for supper.

Between two and three the following

morning, I was disturbed by an unusual noise on

deck, and by a great deal of running to and fro on

the poop, over

my

little

cabin.

I sprang out of bed,

and hastened on deck to inquire the

to say the truth, a
nightfall,

little

alarmed

cause, feeling,
for just about

there had passed us, pretty close, a sus-

picious-looking craft, which the captain took to be

either a pirate or a slaver

She burnt

from the African

coast.

for a few minutes a white light at her

bow, but never, as

is customar}'^

attempted to speak

us.

with honest vessels,

A BOY OVERBOARD.

17

The second mate, whom I found

in the greatest

distress, told

me

that an apprentice

name was Morgan

had

fallen

the poor boy's

overboard from some

He was

part of the rigging near the cross-trees.

seen

strike the

to

step-ladder

in

rail

descent.

his

was immediately thrown over

small

to him,

and, the alarm being given, one of the boats was

down from

lowered

crew jumped into

the davits
it

the direction in which

half naked,
it

Some
The

off in

The night was not very

bright stars were visible

was a good deal of thick haze

sea.

and pulled

was supposed the boy would

be carried by the current.

dark.

four or five of the

ship, of course,

yet

over the

floating

was put about

there

and but

a few minutes had elapsed before every hand had

turned out, and every eye was strained to catch

a glimpse of the boat, which had disappeared in the
fog.

It

was an anxious moment to

one spoke above a whisper.

of the oars

who
his

Occasionally the splash

"

Morgan

Morgan

"

reached

the

he had received one from higher

deep, deep sea,

had closed over

body, and his spirit had departed to

it.

but poor Morgan was never more to obey

summons

authority

No

on board.

was heard, and the deep voice of the man

steered, calling

the ear

all

Him who

his

gave

Sorrow was depicted upon the countenances of

c

18
all,

MOXTRNING.

when

the brave boatmen

came on board without

him, and, after securing the boat,

crept

one

off

hammocks.

They had

picked up the ladder, but not the boy.

I returned

by one

silence to

in

their

My

to

my

cabin,

too

full

of the image of our departed shipmate.

an only

my

child,

mother,
;

was a poor sickly

patient on board.

first

upon

but not to sleep.

till

He,

and had been

thought of his poor

the picture was too painful to be dwelt

aud returned

so I got up,

I paced

lad,

mind was

to the deck,

which

daybreak, feeling revived by the cool

till

night wind, that had rather increased during the

last

few hours.

As the white spray dashed from

more than once fancied I heard poor

the bows, I

Morgan's voice calling from the angry waters below

me.

The
behind

old grey-headed boatswain was huddled

the

large

water-cask,

had gone

jacket, for he

warnings
joined

thought, do
to

me on

a great

for the lost boy.

How

some men take these awful

be prepared for death

deck

monkey

fast asleep after the trouble

and exertion of the search

easily,

in

up

The mate

and we walked there together

conversing on the uncertainty of

of night were swept from off the

life, till

the shades

bosom of the now

beautiful ocean.

The

air

was

delicious,

and Madagascar no longer

THE cabin-boy's

visible to us.

few albatrosses, those mighty

habitants of these regions, kept us

some
cry,

19

SIMPLICITY.

company

in-

and

stray Cape-pigeons uttered their piercing little

as

they followed in the wake of the vessel,

and picked up the morsels of bread which the black

cook seemed to take pleasure in throwing to them.

The heavy dews of the past

still

dripping from the

sails

eventful night were

and ropes

the dogs

crept out from under the long-boat, and shook their

shaggy coats

the sleepers were awakened, and

was once more bustle and

activity.

Day had

"forth to his work and to his labour."

trade wind diverted our

attention,

us, as it were, to forget the lost

Troubles,

it

has been said,

been a great friend of

his loss.

simplicity,

me

so

strange

manner
loss

sit lightly

on

sailors

who had
poor Morgan, and who bitterly
little

me on

cabin-boy,

this time.

to reply.

it,

that I

this

the quarter-deck, and,

very earnestly, asked, with

in the question

of putting

how

boy who had been

whether I thought poor

by the sharks by

fine

and compelled

In the course of the morning,

poor lad came up to

after looking at

The

us.

but we had on board a

felt

re-

and man accordingly went

turned to the world,

taken from amongst

all

Tom

much

was eaten

There was something

and in the
felt for

child-like

an instant at a

20

A SUPERSTITION OF SAILORS.
After a moment's silence, I told him, that, by the

mercy of God, and through the merits of Jesus

Morgan was,

Christ our Saviour, poor

a better world

and

that, if so, it

I hoped, in

was of very

little

consequence to him whether he was eaten by the

sharks at sea or by the

worms on shore

day the sea would

bibles told us, that at the last

give up

that our

dead, and that his comrade would not

its

be forgotten.

The

little

cabin-boy cried very bitterly

nor did

an}i;hing that I could say appear to comfort him.

He was

only twelve years of age, and an interest-

ing and well-disposed boy.

to teach

could not read very

cook had taken some pains

but the black

well,

He

him and poor Morgan

to

read the

New

Testament.

For

several days a cloud

was

cast over the usual

The

cheerfulness of the ship's crew.

forecastle

no more
cially

crew

boy

was

silent,

fiddle in the

and the hearty laugh was heard

sailors are proverbially superstitious, espe-

about death.

was told that some of the

fully expected to see the ghost of the

sitting

his death.

drowned

on the bowsprit on the ninth night from

The following Sunday

it

was pleasing

to

see that, out of respect to the departed youth, almost

every

man wore some

Speaking of

article of

Sunday,

it

is

mourning.
not

day often

SUNDAY ON BOARD
neglected, nor are

21

SHIP.

sacred hours allowed to pass

its

by unheeded on ship-board

and though the beauti-

prayers in our fine church service, intended for

ful

use at sea, are not always read aloud in the cabin of

every vessel, yet I think, generally speaking, the

Sabbath, in our English ships,

and

is

In

as well observed,

kept as holy, as circumstances will admit.

tunities

everything,

matter,

this

upon the

care.

is

who

captain,

has

of doing good

am

now,

to

of course,

many

blessed

oppor-

those entrusted

to his

must be understood, speaking

it

with reference to the Merchant Service

The

nursery for British seamen.

I spent at sea

is

depends

still

fresh in

first

my

that great

Sabbath that

memory.

The

evening before exhibited quite a busy scene, and

newly-washed
rope, to dry.

clothes

were fluttering

All the crew were engaged in setting

matters in order on board

morning

all

from every

and on the following

turned out in their best apparel.

Every-

thing connected with the usual daily work on board

a large vessel was put out of sight, and the ends of
all

loose ropes were,

The

what

is called,

" Flemish coiled."

decks, from the holy-stoning of the night before,

were snowy-white,

all

unnecessary labour was avoided,

and the men and boys were allowed as much spare

time for reading as was consistent with the safe

working of the

ship.

It

was a pleasing sight

to

22

DIVINE SERVICE.

see

them

seated at their ease,

bibles, or other
less as

sailors too

and

it

Thought-

often are, the bible

is

a book

some comer of each man's

not an unusual thing to see there

is

also a bundle or

doubt, by

reatHug their

books suitable to the day.

generally to be found in
chest

many

two of

religious tracts, put in,

some good mother or

sister

no

who had packed

the box.

On

the day to which I allude, the captain said he

would have prayers read

All the boys

in the cabin.

men

were, very properly, ordered to attend, but the

were allowed to act in this matter as they thought

proi)r;

and the mate rang the

bell at eleven o'clock.

The momiog was unusually calm and

singularly favourable to the perfonnance of a

was

duty of
80,

attended the

dowTi upon

place

I think all

this description.

pleasure to see so
fall

and

serene,

set

apart

summons

many
their
for

and

it

who

could do

me

gave

great

of our most careless sailors

knees

prayer,

as

they entered the

and behave with

all

reverence during the whole service.

There was something to

me

very impressive and

beautiful in the appearance of this

persons,

bound upon a long and dangerous voyage,

and now voluntarily

vessel,

collected

and upon a treacherous

prayers,

group of

little

and to pour forth

together

in a

frail

up

their

sea, to offer

their praises

and thanks-

THE STORM.
givings before the throne of
in the great waters,

23

Him

"whose paths are

and whose footsteps are not

known."

When

the solemn introductory prayer was

beginning with "

Eternal Lord God,

who

read,

alone

spreadest out the heavens, and rulest the raging of

the sea,
until

who

hast compassed the waters with bounds,

day and night come to an end, be pleased to

receive into thy

Almighty and gracious protection

the persons of us thy servants,"

<kc.

and when the

reader proceeded to " thou didst send forth thy com-

mandment, and the windy storm

turned into a calm,"

how

little

ceased,

and was

did any of us think,

during that quiet and peaceful morning, when the

elements were at

rest, that, in

a few hours afterwards,

our vessel was to be nearly dismasted in a tremendous

gale.

Such, however, was the case.

Within but a few hours, a storm burst upon us

so suddenly,

we

and with such awful

could take in

fury, that before

any canvas to save them, our

main-topmast, main top-gallant mast, and royal, were

So

carried away.
in

little

can they,

who

" have business

great waters," judge what an hour

may

bring

forth.

But I have rambled from

we

it,

we were

within a few days'

shall

purpose, and must

never reach Bombay.

return to

or

my
sail

of India,

When

we were

THE

24

SESOSTRIS.

rudely summoned, by the

commander

of the Sesostrls

steamer, to heave to, and bear tidings to the great

men

of

frigate,

Bombay, that

had been out

the Sesostris

she,

steamer-

six days in a hurricane, but

now going

weathered the gale, and was

had
with

safely,

her passengers and mail-bags, to Aden.

As we were compelled

to haul in pretty close,

and were, out of compliment, obliged

stun-sails, I

to take in our

had a good opportunity of seeing

beautiful vessel, the property of the

India Company.

this

Honourable East

Her quarter-deck was crowded by

a strange collection of black and white faces of every

and

caste

colour.

Servants were running about in

their eastern costumes

and overgrown turbans

and

under the cabin windows might be seen

what was

who had been

so long at

a tempting sight to us,

sea

nets filled with all sorts of vegetables, fruit,

fresh meat,

and other good things necessary

for the

voyage.

After a request that she should be reported as

soon as we arrived in Bombay, from whence she

had

sailed

which

request

was roared through a

speaking-trumpet, by a very

little

red-faced

man,

who, by-the-bye, forgot to ask whether we were in

want of water, or had run short of anything

went the

Sesostris, rolling, pitching,

away

and smoking,

over the mountain- waves which the late storm had

BOMBAY.

25

and whicli we had happily escaped by one

raised up,
single day.

There appeared to be a singular variety of char-

on board of the steamer.

acters

I espied

two or

three jaundiced-looking old men, who, as I supposed,

after

heaping up riches and, perhaps, honours, were

away from

tearing themselves

India, to flutter for

a year or two about the sunny side of Cheltenham,

and then to

who were

Others there were,

die.

and misery

pictures of sea-sickness

and in some

countenances there was a glow of hope, excited by

the thought of once

Two

in

picturesque harbours

We

to visit.

it

We
vessel

has been

my

good fortune

had been just three months and a half

really felt sorry that it

for the last ties that

to sweet

home were now

seemed

still

to bind

was

me

to be broken.

had scarcely come to an anchor, before our

was surrounded by canoes, punts,

a dozen different kinds of shore-boats,

had come
full

Fort

one of the most lovely and

upon our voyage, and I

;

Old England.

safely riding at anchor opposite the

Bombay, and

over

visiting

days after this encounter in the Indian Ocean,

we were
of

more

off

dingies,
all

and

of which

from the custom-house bunda, in the

expectation of getting a job of some description

or other.

One contained

another, the parties to

the custom-house officers

whom

our ship was consigned

BOMBAY BOATS.

26

another, the master dobie, or ship's washerman,

who

kindly volunteered to wash for captain, mates, and

at

turban

full

had a

of the highest testimonials, signed by

the

known and unknown

and

navj',

the very

He

an almost nominal charge.

sailors,

officers of

the Indian

all

armv

extending over a period of thirty years at

least,

and

enclosed in an oiled

carefully

paper envelope.

Another boat had been engaged by a

of Portuguese servant- boys,

who were anxious

themselves to captain, mate, passengers,

to

any one that was

silly

collection

to hire

or, in fact,

enough to take them on the

strength of their suspicious-looking recommendations.

Another boat had pulled over a remarkably

looking Hindoo,

who kindly

the commander, of any

jolly-

offered to dispose, for

thing he might have

little

brought out on his own account to speculate witlL

He

very good English, he was intimately

said, in

acquainted with

all

the

London and Liverpool

and had been the means of putting

into the

way

shire hams,

He

of realizing large

their captains

sums on

their

Cumberland bacon, greyhounds,

was, in fact, a

Jew

of the St.

ships,

Mary Axe

York-

(fee, <kc.

caste.

Another, and perhaps the most acceptable boat

in

the

things

lot,
;

was

filled

fresh water,

with

all

sorts

new-baked bread,

of desirable
goat's milk,

pots of country butter or ghee, eggs, poultry of

all

A MUSSULMAN.
descriptions, meat,

and

pumpkins,

difficult to

remember.

punkahs,

Chinese

cheroots,

and

hookahs,

Then

newspapers, foreign

vegetables,

Manilla

native,

27

nameless

fifty

articles,

there was a boat crowded with Lascars,

strongly-made men,

who had come

unloading the ship

for in

warm

fine,

off to assist in

climates our sailors

unequal to this task without assistance.

are

knowing-looking

me

seeing

]\Iussulman,

staring

about on the quarter-deck, came up the ladder, and,

after

making me a very low and

begged

my

leaves,

and a

appeared to

graceful salaam,

acceptance of a bunch of sweet green

real

me

genuine Provence

He had

doubly sweet.

up neatly on a painted

stick

them

tied

having thus

and,

which

rose,

introduced himself, he began to recommend, in very

glowing terms, a young gentleman sitting in the

bow

of one of the boats, and holding over his head a

ragged pink umbrella, as a

look

aftr

my

chambre during

fit

and proper person to

my

luggage, and act as

my

sojourn in Bombay.

valet-de-

I told him,

however, that I should probably have to be

for

some years

intrusion

and

to

He

come.

was

apologized for the

afterwards,

with

dozen others, peremptorily, and rather

oflf

the deck

by the mate,

as

my own

about two

hastily,

some of the

discovered that our polite visitors had

ordered

sailors

made

had

several

BOMBAY THIEVES.

28

taking away with them articles not

mistakes in

hiwfuUy their own.

No

sooner had they pushed

off,

than

it

was

dis-

covered that the loose ends of every rope had been

cut

off.

We

had evidently

perhaps the most

expert and

One

world could produce.

that a Lascar was sawing

and with

ness,

yards of

new

his

national

that

rope, as he

the

failing

thieves,

cunning which the

our crew declared

of

with the greatest cool-

hands behind him, about three

about the nature of

strange

off,

among

fallen

was conversing with him

the

cargo.

captain was

but

it

It

may

appear

not aware of this

was

his

first

voyage to

India.

We

got a most acceptable supply of fresh water

from the

pilot- boat, as

we had

suffered

much during

the voyage from the bad tank that ours had been

put
I

into.

After so long an abstinence, I thought

had never in

my

life

as this water.

Truly,

any blessing

we

"

And

till

upon

we never know

lose

this is India !"

feeling of pleasure

a chair

tasted anything so delicious

and

it.

thought

I, as,

with a strange

my

eyes, as I sat

surprise,

on the quarter-deck, wandered over the

scenes on shore.

" This

is

the

far-famed country

concerninfr which I have heard so

of gold

the value of

and sunshine

of

much

the land

nabobs and diamonds

INDIA.
the land of which tradition

marvellous

tales,

and

29
has told us so

which

of

many

wondrous

such

accounts have been handed down, ever since the day

when Vasco

del

Gama, the

first

European navigator,

found his way to India by doubling the Cape of

Good Hope

opened,

on the 20th of May, 1498,

communications

friendly

with

and

sovereign prince of Calicut

Zamarin,

the

laid the foundation

of a scheme which was soon to disturb

quillity,

How

to

reap

quiet

relieve

it

of a portion of

tran-

its

its riches.

did he dream that England was even-

little

tually

that

and to

or

the

benefits

of his

discovery,

company of Leadenhall

little

and

Street

merchants would, in due time, take counsel together

to turn the trade of Hindostan into a

and

deprive the Venetians,

to

finally the Portuguese, of all the

the

new

channel,

Genoese, and

golden harvest they

had been so long reaping on the sunny shores of

Here, then, was Bombay,* which

the famed Indies.

*

Bombay

hom

takes

its

hahia, signifying a

name from two Portuguese words,

good harbour or bay.

It is stated,

that in the age of Periplus this island, then called Kalliena,

was

little

port,

frequented.

It

had previously been an established

but Sandanes, one of the sovereigns of Barugaza,

prohibited any of the Egyptian vessels from entering the

any were compelled to do so by accident or

of weather, a guard was immediately put on board,

harbour
stress

and

if

and they were taken to

Bai-ugaza.

GEOGRAPHY OF BOMBAY.

30

the Moguls bad surrendered

up

1530, and which was to

be rather more than a

to the Portuguese in

century afterwards a part of a wedding-gift of the

Infanta of Spain, on

her marriage to

Charles the

Second.

My

mind

pictured the fleet of five ships of war,

under the command of the Earl of Marlborough,

arriving here in

1662, to take possession of this

valuable acquisition, which

prosperous and

populous

now

is

city,

the

site

of a

remarkable for

its

strong fortifications, magnificent harbour, fine docks,

and wealthy merchants

in

fact,

one of the most

flourishing depots for the produce of the East that

we

possess.

The Island of Bombay

is

beautifully situated

the western coast of Hindostan, 18 deg.

5G min.

N. Lat, and 72 deg. 57 min. E. Long., and

the
It

shore

on

lies

off"

of Concan in the province of Bejapore.

was united,

in 1805, to the large

and interesting

Island of Salsette, on the south, by a noble cause-

way constructed by

Bombay

is

said

the then governor, Mr. Duncan.

to be

formed of two ranges of

whinstone rock, of unequal length, running parallel

to each other on opposite sides of the island,
at the distance of
other.

The

two or three miles from each

eastern range

western about

five,

and

is

about seven, and the

miles long; these ranges being

FORT GEORGE.

31

united at the north and south by belts of sandstone,

which are only a few

above the level of the

feet

sea.

The harbour

is

bounded on the north and west by

Bombay, Colabah, and

is

Butcher's

Island,

Salsette.

and

On

behind

the eastern side

Elephanta.

this,

Three miles south of Butcher's Island

Caranjah.

is

The channel thus formed by Colabah and Caranjah

is

about three miles wide, and about seven or eight

fathoms deep
of

and

rather dangerous, on account

is

sunken rock and bank occurring near the

entrance to the harbour.

The

Bombay

visitor in

sees,

comparatively speak-

Here

ing, but little to gratify his curiosity.

ruined temples, or deserted

deserts wild,

savage

no jungles, or

where lurks the prowling tiger or the

Thug

and were

scenery that surrounds

in itself

cities

no

are

but few

it

it

on

natural

not for the

exquisite
island has

all sides, this

charms to engage our

attention or to merit minute detail.

Fort George

is

the grand resort for foreigners

and merchants, and

its

constantly thronged

by crowds from

of the globe.

ing people you

narrow dingy

are

streets
all

quarters

The strange costumes and odd-lookare constantly meeting puzzle

amazingly, before you can find out

who they

you

are,

or

before you can distinguish the different castes of the

32

GOA.

Here

natives.

is

one

man

with forty or

fifty

yards of

muslin rolled up into a turban on his head

here

another with a tower of card-board, covered with

chintz

between his
his

eyes,

and

resting

down

on the bridge of

whom you

Then, numbers

nose.

a peak coming

another with

there

peculiar daubs of coloured paint

meet, have

upon

their fore-

heads; caste marks, which are renewed every morning.

The

and

light

persons wear

cool-looking

thin, long, flowing, white robes,

silk or coloured linen trousers,

them, and long to cast

European dress

off

make you

all

and

quite envy

your tight uncomfortable

for theirs.

numlier of Portuguese here

in

which

dresses

There are

still

a great

more, perhaps, than

any other of the presidencies, but they belong

chiefly

to

the

poorer

classes.

They have

their

churches, chapels, and religious houses, and keep

up

pomp and outward show of their

religion, which is now mixed up with many of
the popular superstitions of the Hindoos and Mo-

a great deal of the

hammedans.

Goa

still

exists as their gate into India

once splendid and populous

capital,

but this

Mr. Hamilton

describes as a wilderness, of which the monasteries

form the only tenanted portion, and of which a few

miserable monks, half of them natives, are the only
inhabitants,

while whole streets

may

be traversed.

POPERY IN INDIA,

33

from one extremity to another, without meeting

a

human

being, or any other signs of former popu-

pavements

than

lation,

overgrown

with

grass

gardens and court-yards choked with under-wood

and

and

dwellings,

princely

venerable

abbeys,

mouldering rapidly to decay.

The

magnificent

and

churches

monasteries of

Goa cannot

easily be forgotten

visited

once fearfully celebrated seat of the

this

Inquisition.

It

250 miles to the south

situated

is

by those who have

of Bombay, and few can witness

ness, without feeling that the

upon

resteth

But Goa

it.

its

perishing great-

hand of an angry God

still

continues to supply

India with fresh recruits for the service of the Pope

and sadly did

it

mourn over the

and the thought that

was

it

of

loss

to

come

Bombay,
into

the

possession of the vile English heretics.

We

know

that

England

is

accused of injustice

towards India, but we cannot say that she has been

indifferent

of

its

to

the

spiritual welfare

countless inhabitants.

and happiness

She has

not, like the

Komanists wherever their agents have obtained a

footing, pulled

down one

another

The

set.

poured into India

set of idols to substitute

spiritual
is

light

which she has

the true light of the gospel.

The pure and unadulterated word of God,

by those English and American

as

preached

missionaries,

who

THE PLENTEOUS HARVEST.

34

have gone forth to

offer

India salvation only

to

through the merits and death of a crucified Re-

money and without

deemer, without
in

a measure, at

benighted people.

we have but

It

indeed, but too true, that

is,

much

command

obeyed the

Go

into all nations,

the gospel to every creature."

was our duty to

enlighten

effectual

Divine Master, to "

it

to

least,

feebly

this matter so

price, has been,

We

its

of our

and preach

have not done in

we might have done, and

as

as

do.

While countless treasures have been drawn from

this

fair

laud,

to

minister to

England's national

and to subjugate to her power the nations

pride,

6f Southern

Asia,

how few

are the voices which

in that vast wilderness of unbelief are at this present

moment

preaching forgiveness of sins through the

blood of the Redeemer

and has been long ripe

teous,

where,
it in
is

Tlie harvest truly

it

may

for the

plen-

is

sickle,

but

be asked, are the reapers to gather

Here and

there, indeed, a lone

man

of

God

gloriously expending his health, his strength, his

life,

in the great cause of man's redemption

what
is this

are these

among

for the spiritual

so

many?

What

but

provision

wants of this mighty empire,

in which 120,000,000 of our fellow-subjects are lost

in the thick darkness of the grossest idolatry?

It

TEMPORAL AND ETERNAL RICHES.

is

35

but as a drop of water in the ocean, a blade of

grass in the forest or the jungle.

If but the smallest fraction of the gains of

Eng-

land's merchants as a body, were systematically laid

how

aside for this noble object,

sum

annually collected, and

how many more

might be sent out into the

it

be said of

not strown
poral

riches

eternal.

us,

We

let

that

great would be the

we

field

labourers

of India?

gather where

Shall

we have

have received from India temus

give

her

those

which

are

36

GREEN

SPOTS.

CHAPTER

think

II.

can Bce the precise and distinguishing marks

of national character

more

in these nonsensical minutia),

than in the most impoitant matters of

In thus taking up

my

my

state."

pen but to jot down some of

stray reminiscences of India, I would endeavour

to perpetuate the memorj' of days passed amidst

peculiar scenes and people.

Early impressions, in-

The memory

deed, are not easily eradicated.

to

them with a wonderful

tenacity

may

be tossed about upon the stormy waves of

memory's waste

;"

green spots we

all

are

the

and on the

clings

they fade not

from the mind, however roughly we

Early happy hours

its

" green

afterwards
life.

recollection of

delight to dwell.

altogether a vale of tears and sorrow

on

spots

Life

such

is

net

the Almighty,

in his great goodness, has provided largely for our

solace

and

gratification, if

we would only use

his

MINUTE NATIONAL PECULIARITIES.

gifts aright

but there are those

37

who go grumbling

through the world, with their eyes closed to

With such

creations.

fair

I would

all

its

not wish to

travel.

It is not

my

upon the

rise

nor upon

its

intention to discuss or dwell

much

of our magnificent eastern empire

the

progress, since

war

of

fortunes

placed India under the dominion of Great Britain.

Celebrated historians have already done justice to

singularly interesting

this

the

before

instruction

As

subject

and have

reading public, volumes

teeming with

and amusement.

common

a simple sketcher of

day scenes, in

this country

life

little

struck

peculiarities that

trating the character of

its

ter thought to be but little

inhabitants

once oppressed land

fable,

down

me

as

the

illus-

charac-

changed since the death

of Nadir Shah, or the destroyer, Timour.

of despotism, indeed,

and every-

once the land of

1 will endeavour, as I proceed, to note

various

laid

now no

robbing

The hand

longer desolates this

a happy, or shedding

the blood of a peaceful, race, like that of the Hindoo.

The

Christian banner of

England now waves over

a large portion of the East Indies.

and

assistance

were

offered,

terror

was

still

protection

and accepted with a

readiness clearly manifesting that the

reign of

Our

fresh

Mohammedan

upon the national

38

NATURAL RICHNESS OF

memory.

As opportunity may

INDIA.

we

offer itself,

occasionally leave the busy haunts of men, and

among woods and

as they roll along;

may

silent forests

mark

will

wander

and take a glance

the seasons
at whatever

be interesting to the naturalist, and to

who

all

and commune with Nature in her

love to ponder

wildest moods.

All the treasures which earth offers to

as

well

is

face

of

known, been

this

has excited

men on

resources, even

have,

liberally scattered over the

double-harvest-bearing clime

in consequence,

spurred

man

to explore

human
it,

which,

ambition, and

in its never-failing

from the snowy heights of the won-

drous Himalaya range,

down

to the spicy shores of

Cape Comorin.
I shall take care to avoid the folly so often com-

the

mitted and complained of

folly of

high a colouring to pictures of domestic

East

giving too
life

in the

but of the beauty and the magnificence of

landscapes and scenery, I do not think

it

its

possible

that language can convey an adequate description.

Truth has been said to be at times more startling

than

fiction

guide,

my

and with good old sober truth

readers and I may, I hope,

for

our

make our way

onwards very agreeably.

India

medium

is

now brought

of steam, that

so

near us, through

the

our English readers natu-

A STUFFED
rally
life

look for a

little

39

TIGER.

more of the minutiae of Indian

than they formerly found in the narratives of

It

travellers.

can hold out no attractive

true, I

is

promises of tiger-hunts or daring adventures in the

jungle

species of

know, has

cast a

writers on

life

having of

information which, as I well

charm over the works or some

in India.

These subjects, however,

late entered largely into

the

descriptive

volumes of almost every adventurer who has ever

had an opportunity of
in the East,
its

effects,

and of
have

letting off a percussion-cap

home by

startling his friends at

become

familiar

to

the

traveller; so, leaving the tigers to those

had the good fortune

to

fireside

who have

meet with so many of them,

and who have turned them to such good account,

I

must candidly

confess,

appear, that I never had

either lion

or tiger in

strange

though

the honour

my

of

it

may

meeting

rambles in India, with

the exception, indeed, of a stuffed tiger, that occu-

pied a very important position in the bungalow of

a kind friend of

mine

at Colabah,

and glared upon

you just as you entered the reception-room.

My

friend used to stroke

down

the skin, and to

lament that so noble an animal as the tiger should

have become so scarce as seldom to be met with in
western India.
at this

remark

I once expressed
;

for

some

little

surprise

having but just come over to

A BEAUTIFUL BUNGALOW.

40

the country, I fancied that every clump of brush-

wood

sheltered

some

horrible wild animal of

some

kind or another, that was always in readiness to

pounce upon you unexpectedly.

however, informed

^y y^'i:

me

The kind

that I was about to

me

*^^^ assured

captain,

commence

that I should think

very differently before that eventful period should

have expired.

What a beautiful bungalow was that of my friend!

From the road you looked do>vri a long vista of
mogree and scarlet-flowering acacia

In front

trees.

of a large and handsome porch, grew the custard

apple and the guava, in clumps, intermingled with

and the

the lovely pomegranate, bearing, at one

same

time, the blushing calabash fruit and

like flowers.

Shading the dining-room windows was

a shrub, about eight

morning

feet higli, that every

during the two months of

friend,

my

brilliant

yellow blossoms, which attracted around them

butterflies

building was

in

the

octagonal

in

my

residence with

was loaded with hundreds of large

beautiful

wax-

its

neighbourhood.
shape

so

that

all

the

The
from

whatever quarter a stray breeze might come, you

could open the Venetian shutters and admit

upon

at once.

here,

we must go back

George and Bombay, and

cast another glance

But instead of lingering

to Fort

it

its

houses and people.

STREETS OF BOMBAY.

The Fort and Town

of

Bombay

on a narrow neck of land,

The

extremity of the island.

and substantial towards the

weak on
edral,

fortifications are strong

sea,

handsome

are

south-eastern

the

but are considered

Dockyards,

Church,

Chistom-House,

stand principally

The Mint, Town-Hall, Cath-

the land side.

Scotch

at

41

their style of architecture, give

and

Arsenals,

by

and,

buildings,

an English character

to the place, which rather contradicts your English-

formed ideas of oriental

cities.

The houses within

the Fort were originally built of wood, with verandahs, and roofs covered in with

1803, a great

fire

consumed many of them

were erected on a salt-ground

which had been recovered from the

since

grown up

Upon my

of

outside,

and has

sea,

into a large, busy town.

first

ramble

through the streets of

Bombay, the houses struck me

as being

comfortable places to live

So

judge, they wanted that

the expression, which

life

we

in.

far

about them,

most un-

as
if I

could

may

use

find in our cheerful English

There are no glass windows, but their

residences.

places are supplied

walls are

and, as

number

the population was yearly increasing, a

dwellings

But, in

tiles.

all

by dusty outside

shutters.

The

coloured or stuccoed, and the houses,

being: three or four stories high in the Fort,

gloomy but agreeable shadx)ws over the narrow

throw
streets.

ORNAMENTED BUILDINGS.

42

Some

of these buildings, inhabited by Hindoos, give

an idea of great antiquity, and are very curious in

their

Many have

architecture.

balconies, roofed over,

carved

wooden

great,

and supported on elaborately

pillars,

the

the

relief,

Hindoo mythology.

and

shafts

which exhibit various odd and

standing out in bold

projecting

of

capitals

fantastic

devices,

and evidently taken from

The ends of many of the

supporting timbers, that project far out from the walls,

are

ornamented by grotesque

in

figures,

strange,

uncouth attitudes, though often representing very

faithfully

some

of the favourite birds, animals, &c.,

which are held sacred by the natives

being
those

supposed

to

within-doors.

watch

over,

as

Between the

phant, or a Brahminy bull,

it

is

these figures

good

legs of

spirits,

an

not unusual to see

a jackdaw's or a pigeon's nest constructed

sparrows

and minahs bring up

undisturbed, in

among

the

all

their

young

open mouth of a

the folds of a monster serpent.

{gracula religiosa, Linn.), I

may

ele-

and
ones,

buffalo,

or

The minah

here observe, has

the characteristics of the Encjlish starlinij about

him, though difiering in plumage from that well-

known

bird.

The minah

man, and you meet with

it

is

fond of the abodes of

in every

town and

village

in India.

In the

streets

of Bom!)ay

it

is

not unusual to

TAMENESS OF THE BIRDS.

tame

see flocks of birds, so

of your

way

them.

children at

home

The
in

children,

their

all

taught to love and be kind to

and

The consequence of

tion,

which

arises

all

which they cannot

this part of their educa-

from the popular

belief in the

we

English parents might gather a useful hint,

see here, as

between man,

it

were, perfect

and

beast,

are

God's creatures,

transmigration of souls, and from which,

we

actions,

indeed, they

to deprive nothing of the life

give.

most unlike our

movements and

them

notice of

little

move out

as scarcely to

you pass; but no one thinks of

as

disturbing

take but

43

bird.

harmony

think,
is,

that

existing

The tameness of

these birds, as I must confess, was not "shocking

to

me

" I

was delighted to

live in a

cruelty to the inferior animals

country where

was almost unknown,

and where the beautiful creatures of the great Creator

were justly valued, and not shot down for the mere
sport of the idle and vicious.

stream of love, too,

infant mind.
its

fruits in

the gentle

rounded by

We

see

manhood

Hindoo

is

it
;

is

in childhood,

In

and we see

for the domestic hearth of

never so happy as when sur-

his descendants,

third generations.

thus infused into the

short,

even to the second and

nothing but poverty or

death ever separates the members of a Hindoo family.

Early of a morning, I have seen

little

children

PECULIARITIES OF THE HOUSES.

44
filling

the stone troughs, so often

Indian

in

with water, to supply the wants of the many-

villages,

animals that pass up and

the dry, hot season

kissed the dark

little

down during

the day, in

and there was something so

touching in this innocent

office,

that I could have

smiled so sweetly

faces that

on the pigeons and other

they came fear-

birds, as

bathe in the fresh water so kindly supplied

lessly to

for their use.

But

my way back to
On each side
at

met with

and must make

I love children,

their houses again.

of the principal entrance of a house

Bombay, there

is

commonly

a small Gothic niche

for the reception of lamps, which, in the dwellings

of the wealthy natives, are lighted every night with

a simple

bit of cotton-wool, rolled

and stuck into a

nut

Some

oil.

tin holder,

between the

which

in cocoa-

staircase

you to reach the

without going through the building

story, which, perhaps,

another branch of the family.

rally large,

sunk

houses have a windinjj

outside, so as to enable

an upper

is

fingers,

flat roof,

or to ascend to

may

be occupied by

The rooms

are gene-

but very low, and badly ventilated

from the custom of burning

sticks in the

and,

form of

long slender candles covered with powdered sandal-

wood and
smoke

saltpetre, are redolent of this sickly-scented

that hangs over everything.

roofs are

Some

only tiled in part, and the

flat

of the

portion

NARROW
is

45

STREETS.

covered with a fine cement called cliunam, which,

when thoroughly dry, becomes very white and

Here may often be seen China vases, with
polished.
flowers planted in
chairs,

them

and couches

stone seats in great variety

for the idler or sleeper.

These roofs are much resorted to by Hindoo and

Parsee ladies,

who go up

busy world below

caste if

to pray, unseen

by the

they are supposed to lose

for

they appear in public, and are quite shut

out from holding any intercourse with strangers

consequently, their lives are passed in great seclusion

from the world, and

this is

the only opportunity

which they enjoy of looking occasionally upon the

surrounding beauties of their

country, and of

fair

contemplating at night, from their house-tops, the

wonders of the starry firmament.

Some

of

the

streets

are

narrow,

so

buildings on each side almost meet at the top

such streets

are, of course, awfully hot,

of air being forbidden to enter.

It

and

this

is,

and

every breath

is true,

indeed,

that the sun cannot annoy or distress those

are walking below

the

that

who

certainly, so far

advantage over the broad system

but,

an

upon the

whole, these confined streets are a great drawback to

the health of the Fort and town.

aimed
is,

at in the construction of all

to defend them, as

much

The grand end

Indian buildings

as possible,

from the

DIRT AND DISEASE.

46

immediate influence of the sun's rays

and various

are the devices resorted to, to effect this desirable

object.

The

streets,

when I

more

to remain in a very offensive state,

inhabited by the poorer classes of

front

in

to

clear

away the

densely

Mohammedans
out,

everything that was

but scavengers are

is

accustomed to cast

of their dwellings,

of no use within

particularly

which

in the northern quarter of the Fort,

and Parsees, who were

were suffered

arrived,

first

pestilential

now employed

accumulations that

impregnated the breath of heaven with every species

Almost constant

of abomination.

and

fever, dysentery,

cholera, were, of course, the result of this horrid

and disgraceful

state of things,

along with

its

it

own reward

which thus brought

;

and taking into

consideration the condition of other native towns

which

it

was

my

lot to visit,

for the dreadful ravages

sion in the East

do,

we may

easily account

which these diseases occa-

sweeping

off,

as they

sometimes

whole populations, in a very brief space of

time.

As
liave

the fortifications rise to a great height,

you

not the least chance of enjoying the morning

or evening sea-breeze, unless

conies,

windows, or the

it

flat roofs

consequently, hundreds of

be from lofty balalready mentioned

persons leave

the Fort

BAZAAKS.

AUCTION-ROOMS.

47

at stated hours, and assemble in picturesque groups

upon the esplanade, the

sea-shore,

and in other airy

haunts, to chat over the past or coming events of

the day.

The bazaars here have but few outward

as the native shopkeepers

goods outside

attractions,

make no show

of their

not having yet learned the English

art of ticketing the

trumpery in their windows, or

of catching the eye with the astounding intelligence

that everything within will be sold at an " enormous
sacrifice "

by the owners.

They

sit

on

cross-legged

a chair by the door, casting up their accounts, or

fanning themselves

you are

in

want of any

you, in the

first place,

possession,

their

value

leisurely with

and not

article,

punkah.

they invariably show

the worst specimen of

asking you,

If

however,

until they see that

leave the shop, will they produce

it

double

in
its

you are about to

what you

really

want.

A number of
who

the best shops are kept

are very fond of trading in English

by

Parsees,

and French

goods, which they have either consigned to them in

the usual
the

way

of business, or which they pick

large sales at Frith's Auction

Kooms,

up

in

Fort, which generally take place once a month.

at

the

At

these rooms I occasionally spent an idle hour, in

looking over the various and beautiful articles which,

A ROYAL BEDSTEAD.

48

gathered together from

world,

parts of the commercial

all

and overcrowded markets

bad speculations

under the auctioneer's hammer,

have caused to

fall

and which he

often obliged to dispose of at prices

that

is

must be ruinous

Among

the

many

to their owners.

unaccountable and strange things

way

that find their

to

hunters, I particularly

bedstead, which

was

this

haunt of

bargain-

all

remember seeing here a

said to have belonged to

state-

George

the Fourth, as part of the furniture of the Pavilion

at Brighton.
its

It

costly gilding

had been sent

out, in the

and ornaments might tempt some

of the wealthy natives to purchase

it

if

one could

it

all

human

greatness

The bazaars

its history,
;

is

on the

There was a
instability of

" sic traaisit gloria mundi."

are distinguished

Borahs, the China, the Parsee,

bazaar

that

have truthfully investigated

them, must have been rather curious.

moral conveyed in

but I suspect

The adventures of

has never been sold.

bedstead,

hope that

<fec.,

occupied by a class of

occasion, as I proceed in

my

by name,

as,

the

&c.

The Borahs

men

I shall have

sketches, to allude to

again in the character of travelling hawkers, so I

will

not particularize them here, though they re-

semble the second-hand furniture brokers in London,

and

their shops display the

odds and ends, new and

old.

same endless variety of

THE MARKETS.
The China bazaar
tured

filled

is

49

with goods manufac-

Here you may

in that industrious country.

purchase the beautiful feather screens

shapes and sizes

punkahs of

kerchiefs,

netting-cases,
rich

silks

and

and

card- cases

satins,

chimney-piece ornaments, and the familiar

and saucers and

vases,

cups

little

by china-

teapots, so highly valued

trunks, so useful to preserve furs, clothing,

books from

There are also found here camphor-

loving ladies.

wood

all

carved ivory-work, in chess-men,

backgammon-boxes,
grass-cloth

insects,

and

in particular

and

from the white

ants, so destructive, in this country, to this sort of

property.

In the Parsees you meet with London, French,

and American goods, and
require

ladies

manship

besides

those knick-knacks which

articles

of Bomjbay work-

particularly the richly-inlaid

desks, and dressing-cases,

by Europeans

by the

all

work-boxes,

which are so justly admired

kincob, or gold cloth, so

rich native children

and the

much worn
rich Indian

muslins.

There are one or two good markets in the Fort

for the sale of butcher's meat, fish, vegetables,

poultry.

and

Oysters are found in great numbers upon

the coast, as well as prawns, and other marine deli-

Everything in the shape of food

cacies.

cheap

and, with care, a single

man may

is

very

live

most

HINDOO MODE OF DRINKING.

60

corafortaLly on

100

extravagant rivalry

is,

dreadful system of

however, carried on amongst

whom

Bombay, many of

the residents at
led

a year.

into the wretched folly of living

Young

means.

thus

beyond

their

and

cadets,

officers,

are

gradually affected by the prevailing epidemic

many become

which has been their

and

debt and

in

be unable to leave

as to

difficulties,

involved

seriously

so

are

writers,

country

the

ruin, or ever to get out of the

clutches of the money-lending natives.

Some

of the

clusively inhabited
trade.

by

In one may

castes

})e

new town

the

in

streets

who work

seen the

are

at the

workmen

ex-

same

in brass

and copper, which department of trade generally

embraces the manufacture of cooking-pans, drinking-vessels,, tripod-lamps,

mestic use
or brass

and such

for all these things are

in

articles

made

hammered

Bombay, and

of copper

out

proper size and shape by manual labour.

poor native carries

with him

of a morning.

The design of

holding water and lifting

it

to

the

Every

one of these brass

when he

drinking-vessels, or duUtees,

of do-

these

leaves

home

chattees,

for

out of the tanks, re-

minded me of the earthen and bronze vases found

at Pompeii

and Herculaneum.

The mode of drinking among the Hindoos

curious.

They never allow

is

the vessel to touch their

51

INDIAN ARTIFICERS.

but holding the head well back, they pour the

lips,

fluid

from a moderate height into the open mouth

and

this,

has

practice

perfect ease

enabled them to

do with

my own

For

and convenience.

part,

I never attempted this feat without imminent danger

I was often surprised that they should

of choking.

drink in this way, as they are usually very cautious

about opening their mouths wide,

The most ordinary

should enter.

singular people are, with them,

would be vain

waking hour of

builders,

so on.
his

oiie

actions of this

religious rites

it

which they practise during every

their lives.

street or bazaar

common
Indeed,

you

see the palanquin-

house-joiners, cabinet-makers,

a person

if

knowledge of such

cheap lessons in

all

felt

arts,

inlaying,

and embroidery, in

As

the evil

to attempt to describe one half of the

religious ceremonies

In another

lest

and

disposed to extend

he might here obtain

carving, gilding,

dying,

their branches.

the Hindoos invariably follow, as a religious

duty, the profession of their forefathers

fession has been

which pro-

handed down to them, but

little

changed by modern improvements, from one generation to another,

The

tools with

they have no

secrets in their trade.

which they work are few, and ex-

tremely simple in their design and construction

they always

sit in

and

the well-known Oriental posture

THE ART OF INLAYIXG.

52

their feet being educated to assist their

hands in

almost every labour which they undertake.

I have

often gained both

amusement and

observing the important

The joiner

perform.

of his

soles

has planed

feet,

make

command

can

lift

it

it

firmly,

and such

sets of fingers,
feet,

the ground, and bring

that he

towards his

hands, almost any article of a light nature.

tice

he

till

suit his purpose.

has he over those of the

from

feet

plank })etwecn the

seizes the

Hindoo workman has two

a

which Hindoo

and there holds

so as to

it

offices

from

instruction

Prac-

has given the natives of the East a control which

we do not

possess over the muscles generally

the freedom with which their

articulations

and

work,

surprises the stiff-made European.

The hands

Hindoos are

of the

fully

formed, and there

their

movements.

is

and beauti-

small,

an easy grace about

The Chinese,

in

my

opinion, do

not surpass the Hindoos in the art of inlaying.

this

work they proceed

great neatness,

as follows

make a box

The

pieces,

coast,

first,

with

and which

is

an

wood, and sold by weight in Bombay.

before they are put together, are

with a fine instrument, exactly to

place

they

In

of scented sandal-wood,

which grows on the Malabar

expensive

all

as this

wood

is

cannot well be planed.

fit

sawn

each into

so very brittle in India,

Silver hinges

and a

its
it

silver

CARVING AND CHASING.

53

lock are then put on, as steel or iron rusts so as to

be unfit for use

rust.

Having

cut or

saw

colours, a

even keys here, worn in the pocket,

so far proceeded in their work, they

from stained pieces of ivory of

out,

number

all

of minute pieces, in the shape of

number

octagons, triangles, &c.; and nearly an equal

from thin pieces of virgin

They then roughly

silver.

and sides of the box, the design

sketch, on the lid

intended to be worked

and having everything in

wood

readiness, they cover a small portion of the

with a strong kind of glue, which does not dry

quickly

the coloured ivory and silver plates being

disposed according to pattern, or as the taste of the

workman may
pieces, that

square inch.

So small are some of the

direct.

one hundred, or more, would

When

the

work

is

lie

on a

quite finished, and

the glue sufficiently dry, they level the whole with

fine glass paper,

and afterwards polish

sary holes in the sandal

wood

are pierced

of a bow-string-pricker, as this hard

to pieces if pierced in

The

it.

neces-

by means

wood would

fly

any other way.

Equally expert are some of the natives in carving

and chasing, in wood and metal, beautiful

of birds,

beasts,

instrument,

common

rently.

and

about
nail.

flowers,

two

using

inches

They carve

long,

figures

rude
not

little

unlike

in ivory but indiffe-

54

ORNAMENTS.

The

money-changers, take up their

Potdars, or

position at the corners of the streets, with their

little

tables before them, ready to transact business at a

moment's

If

you want small change

you have often to go or send

rupee,
for it

notice.

and

if

for a

to the Potdar

the applicant be a foreigner, he takes

pretty good care to deduct three or four pice for the

accommodatioD.

men

These

act sometimes in the

sums of

capacity of pawnbrokers, by lending small

money upon

the gold and silver ornaments, which

here possess in a greater or less degree

all

for she

must be a wretchedly poor woman indeed, that

cannot show a silver bangle or anklet upon the arm
or leg.
I

may

observe that these bangles and anklets are

the chief ornaments of the

Hindoo woman.

They

are clasped round the arms and ancles in early youth,

and never removed.

Many

them are soldered

of

on ; and instances have occurred

in

which the parties

wearing them have been murdered, or had the limb

cut

off,

with the purpose of gaining possession of

these ornaments, so often the only wealth which the

poor boast of on their marriage.

also

commonly worn on

silver ring is

the great and second toe;

and the nose and ears are pierced

of similar ornaments.

for the insertion

Those who are too poor to

purchase silver bangles, &c., wear hoops of coloured

THE POTDAE.
glass, ivory, or bone,

55

which make a curious jingling

noise as they walk.

The money-lenders purchase or exchange

of foreign coin

and

few sovereigns that I

for the

my

found at the bottom of

India, I received in change,

sorts

all

upon landing

purse,

in

from one of these men,

eleven rupees each, equal to twenty-two shillings of

our money.

was only sorry I had

sovereigns, to turn

them

into the

as I very soon found that

as

much

difficulty at

work

that people

Company's

money

Bombay

as in

England

it

there as here.

is

no country

in

you sooner become acquainted with the sad

of

Even

life.

in

that

and

of youth are too often dis-

There

appointed in India.

silver,

obtained with

is

quite as hard for

The golden expectations

not more

rich land,

which

realities

man must

eat

bread by the sweat of his brow.

The Potdar of the

deal with

tunity

street is not a trusty

to

he will impose upon you whenever oppor-

offers.

few days before I

England, I was rather anxious to

me some

man

Bombay for
bring home with
left

of the native ornaments, and gave their

weight in rupees for articles which, I was

composed of

pure

silver.

England, however, I was

the rings, bangles,

Upon my

much annoyed

told,

were

arrival

in

to find that

and nose-ornaments, were only

tubes of the precious metal, into which lead had

THE OPIUM-SELLER.

56

been run, to increase their weight.

paid rather dear for

condemn

all

my

I had, indeed,

But

whistle.

must not

numbers

indiscriminately, for there are

of highly-respectable Shroffs, or native bankers,

who

have their own

and

private

offices

in

the

Fort,

belong to quite a different class from that of our

humble

friend of the streets

of banking
India,

to

is

the

and

as the

business

the interior

chiefly

confined,

issuing

and discounting of

in

bills

exchange, or what are called Jioondies, the

is

a most useful

man

of

of

Shroff

and from the immense num-

ber of these hoondies that are in circulation,

we may

conclude that petty tradesmen would get on badly

Our Potdar

without their assistance.

is

of the corner

furnished with an inkstand, pens and paper, acids

for testing the genuineness of coin,

erally

a pair of old-fashioned spectacles

money-changer

is

opium-seller has

glance at the
of his

own

man

of

the

"

who shuns

upon

it,

you that he

and

One

dreamy drug."

will convince

best customers

a poisoner,

for the

also his little table in the

is

one

the soiled and disorderly

turban and dress show you that he

As

eyes.

public street, with his box and scales

tempting samples

and gen-

generally an old man, and cannot

depend implicitly upon his own

The

<fec.,

is

not himself

the broad day, he comes

creeping out of some narrow, dark alley, just

when

57

OPIUM-EATERS.
" Morn her rosy steps in the Eastern clime,

Advancing, sows the

and man

is

tempted to

eai*th

stroll

with orient pearl;"

abroad early to breathe

the cool atmosphere, and gaze upon the landscape

dews of night.

glittering with the

still

hour for business

dose are worn

This

is

his

for the effects of the last night's

and the wretched victims who

off,

surround his table are eager to purchase the day's

allowance of the slow yet sure
offers to

which he

wandering and disturbed

the

tranquillize

poison

brain of each.

Alas

what a

group

fearful

the sunken eye and languid frame

old age, tottering on

neglected

down

the few annas

the purchaser, as
of

his

happier

youth, with

old age, extreme

palsied

demanded

if

two bamboos, in ragged and

Each

garments.

here

is

hand

in payment,

scatters

and then

he dreaded the detecting eye

and more

resolute fellow-creature,

skulks feebly back to his home, to enjoy an

ficial

state of existence,

arti-

too dearly purchased by a

premature and unlamented death, and by the destruction of every natural feeling implanted within

him.

This fearful species of intoxication

ally practised

among

is

more gener-

the inhabitants of British India

than has been commonly supposed.

The Mohamme-

58

USE OF OPIUM IN ENGLAND.

much

dans in particular are

and much of the apathy and

addicted

its

use

indifference observable

may

in the native character

to

be attributed to this

universal evil which would seem to be daily gaining

ground among them.

Few

can be surprised that

Emperor of China fought hard

the

importation

opium

of

dominions by the

into his

East India Company.

to prevent the

Well might that monarch

regard that potent drug as a curse to a nation which

had already begun to

seduction, and which

Turkey,

is

showed

opium,

which

generally

grown

East Indian

from

suffer

for
is

in

its

dangerous

a decided taste.

it

inferior to that

of

Malwa, Bahar, and

Benares, the great seat of Brahminical learning.

It

pounds

are

is

stated

in

that,

Malwa,

annually produced, but

cowduDg, decayed

Morewood has

a large portion
colonies, as

it

is

often adulterated with

and other

filthy impurities.

pounds annu-

calculated that 16,500

way

ally find their

leaves,

it

360,000

into Great Britain

of

this

but of course,

must be exported

to the

cannot be consumed as a medicine in

such quantities.

few

facts,

to glean,

show

however, which I have been enabled

that opium-eating

in our

own

lately

communicated

some

of

land,

my

and the following

to me,

readers

"

is

on the increase

startling account,

may, perhaps, surprise

The

practice

of

taking

THE ARABIAN STREET-MERCHANT.

59

opium, laudanum, ether, and morphia, has increased,

and

is

increasing,

amongst the population of the

fens in Cambridgeshire

and Lincolnshire, to a

fright-

ful extent.

amongst the aged, the

infirm,

It prevails

and the young

old men, old

second

confined to neither sex

it is

women, and young women,

may
customer who

victims.

its

and

are equally

safely be averred,

It

that every

the druggists, purchases

visits

opium, laudanum, or some opiate or narcotic.

common

to see the

man

or

woman

It is

of twenty, thirty,

or forty years of age, daily going for his or her

sixpenny-worth of poison
yearly

of

bills

in one family,

hundred gallons of

four

swallowed every year

per

week

and we have heard of

for

opium and

In the town of Wisbeach alone, there

laudanum.
are

20

laudanum

sold

and

laudanum

eight gallons of

"
!

After this revelation, I need not enlarge on East

Indian opium-eaters
attention
streets

to

we

therefore,

will,

Arabian,

Bombay with

of

produce.

the

who
his

The curious-shaped

turn our

perambulates the

country

wares

bottles strung

his neck, are filled with delicious rose-water, of

and

round
which

the Hindoos and Parsees are passionately fond, and

which they sprinkle over their apartments and their

visitors,

as

the

Roman

Catholics

do holy water.

The Arabians bring over from the Persian Gulf

all

THE SWEETMEAT -VENDER.

60

sorts of coogies, or water-filterers

and holders, and

his sugar-loaf baskets of plaited grass-weed, strongly

made and

useful, particularly attract the eye of the

English.

He

you

to purchase

by the scents of

recommend

of

otto, or attah,

which he does not

Persia, in miniature bottles,

to

and tempts

deals in costly perfumes,

in his soft language.

He

fail

also deals

in dates, which are usually packed in round, unglazed

jars

they are better and finer than those grown in

method of drying them being

India, the Arabian

The date

superior.

some

fruits

is

perhaps one of the most whole-

we have and

His curious straw turban, made

distinguishes the Arabian

bim,

and

seldom

his spare

fail

quench

baskets,

like his

and high cheek-bones

figure

to attract attention.

in the street.

things do

it.

from the crowds around

The sweetmeat- vender has

out

upon

the Arabs half live

we
the

What

find here to

parching

his little stall spread

curious

collection

of

tempt the appetite or to

thirst

of Indian

Here are rows of brown saucers with

children.

lids on, filled

with a species of electuary, made out of plantains,

sugar, rasped cocoa-nut,

and

flavoured Avith lime-juice

butter, the

fried peas

pice a measure, papers of materials for

powder, glasses of

toffy,

heaps of

whole being

and grain at a

making

fruits, jars

curry-

of fresh

toddy, betal nut, and cakes decked out with scraps

BLIND WANDERERS.
of tinsel,

pumpkins,

of melons,

slices

61
cucumbers,

and green sugar-cane, with nameless preserves that

from China in sealed packages.

are imported

But who are these men

whom we

see in a long

by the

skirts of each

string of ten or a dozen, holding

other's robes,

led

by a

little

and each a

who

boy,

right hand,

staff in his

guides them

wandering blind beggars of the land

amaurosis, a disease which

is

They

all

are the

the victims of

generally brought on

by

too great exposure to the heat and glare of the sun.

Poor creatures
that

we do indeed

we had power
touching

is

for the smallest

them

least

relief

and dreary

travel over burning wastes,

What

to

thee,

afflict

What was
who hast to
lands, to

has

But

He who has

implanted in the

thy fellow-creatures that most excellent

breasts of

gift of charity,

and the poor Hindoo drops

into thy trembling hand, as he hurries past

And

way.

is

there

no home in

where thy aged limbs

thee

away

We

beg

sweet and placid resigna-

tion do I see in that countenance

fit

Oh

sight once more.

Milton's blindness compared to thine,

thought

that voice of supplication, asking

sum, the

thy daily pittance

you

to touch those sightless orbs with

healing ointment, and give

How

for

feel

may

rest,

this

his mite

upon

his

mighty empire

before death

summons

will dwell

no longer on

this painful picture.

62

PARSEE CHILDREN.

shadow on our

that casts a

those happy children that

come laughing onward

their little lilHputian coach,

goats,

path, but will turn to

with long ears and

drawn by four
silky

in

beautiful

Tliey are

coats.

going to take their evening drive, in charge of two

The one who walks behind, holds over

servants.

them a splendid crimson China-satin

with

chittree,

a gold fringe of chaste design, as large as our gig

umbrellas

and

and he who leads the animals

faithful

they belong.
loved ones

by the

care

an old

domestic of the Parsee family, to

whom

Let us examine the costume of these

for loved they

and

must

be, if

we may judge

taste displayed in the

of the luxuriant curls that hang

each boy.

is

They

all

arrangement

down

the back of

wear flowered white muslin

tunics, full in the sleeves, gathered

up

in folds

round

the wrist, and fitting tight round the neck and waist.

Under

this

almost transparent robe,

may

be detected

a yellow satin boddice, also fitting tight

we come

and then

to the full Turkish silk trousers, with white

socks and embroidered slippers

and a

skull-caps of kincob,

costly pearl or emerald in each ear, complete

the dress of the children of the Parsee gentleman

and what happy

little

round faces they exhibit

you

see at once, that they are the children of wealthy

parents, as the sun has been carefully shaded

away

from them, and a pleasing tinge on the cheek just

THE PORTUGUESE ROMISH SEMINARY.

tells

of tlieir

own sunny

63

But they have passed

clime.

over the drawbridge, and under the old gateway that

leads out of the fort,

mences

his walk,

and the sepoy on duty recom-

which had been arrested

moment,

as these little

liim

sport

to

cullah

amid the

flower

flew past

gardens

By-

of

he had, perhaps, seen them every evening;

but we never
little

birds-of-paradise

for the

tire

angels

are

of looking on beautiful children

they,

that

permitted

are

to

flit

around us to give us an idea of heaven, for of such

is

that kingdom.

There

is

us, enclosed

a dark, monastic-looking building near

by high

and shaded by a few

walls,

towering palm-trees that grow out of the court-yard.

Just an hour ago the vesper-bell might have been

heard

calling

its

inmates to prayers,

for

it

is

Portuguese Romish seminary, for the education of

youth destined for the church

are

tall,

full-grown

and though the pupils

young men, they may be seen

coming out two-and-two into the esplanade

school-boys

parading for a walk.

short black gowns, with white

They

collars

all

like

wear

turned over

the shoulders, a kind of Oxford cap, and buckles in

their shoes.

The robust well-fed-looking men,

in

puce surplices and bishops' hats, walking on each

side,

ment.

are the priests

One

of the

connected with this establish-

members of

this

seminary told

64

BEGGARS.

me, their priests

them

will never allow

English Bible, on the plea that

not faithfully

is

it

to read an

I fear the translation they do read has

translated.

not tended

much

to

judge from their

improve their morals,

walk

daily

and

we may

if

conduct.

The

natives unfortunately judge our religion by theirs, at

least,

some with

clearly

whom

comprehend the

I have conversed could not

practical difference

between

we

corrupted Popery and Protestantism, seeing that

all,

as they said, called ourselves Christians.

The entrances

to all the

Mohammedan and Hindoo

temples and pagodas are beset with beggars of every

description,

who keep up

long, soliciting charity

a perpetual baying

shaded

is

put

down by

his friend

place, early in the

Here, the

upon a mat in a

morning, to excite the

compassion of the multitude.

Some

of these poor

creatures are so frightfully deformed, as to

turn away almost

lump

whom

I have seen

some very curious and novel

tions of the vertebrae, and

man,

make you

involuntarily from the hideous

of disease spread out before you.

at these places

day

and alms from those that go

in to pray, or are passing in the streets.

cripple

all

remember

distor-

particularly one

I often stayed to look at,

and whose

head was completely reversed, the chin apparently

resting a

little

below the nape of the neck.

afflicted leper stands

here, with his

arms and

The
legs

EELTGIOUS DEVOTEES.
fully

They look

exposed.

as

65
they had been

if

covered with old whitewash, which was scaling off

from the dark ground underneath

alone,

and

his

companions in misery shun

Some

bourhood as contagious.
cripples

by

but he stands

nature,

and some by

men are
and very many

of these
art,

and impostors.

are arrant knaves

his neigh-

Sunyasse Brah-

mins, Faquirs, and other religious devotees, contrive

obtain a very good livelihood at these temples,

to

and along the road sides

and often

startle

you

with their painted bodies, and idiotic expression of

countenance.

Such various and interesting descrip-

tions have been given of these people, that I have

scarcely anything fresh to offer

But I would

not,

sinuate, that all

who

on the

subject.

indeed, be understood to in-

met with

are

in India in the

character of religious devotees, are impostors.

of

them have been known

to

suffer,

Many

by way of

expiation for their crimes, the greatest self-imposed

tortures; trusting, that

of present misery

arrive,

be carried on

wings to dwell for ever in happiness with the

houris of paradise.

Sitting between

swinging from

half roasted

the back
will

life

when death should

they might,
angels'

by a

pushing

a tree

two

fires

till

by a hook through

before them, as the

Mohammedans

do for hundreds of miles across a country down

to the sea, a little cart,

on

their

hands and knees, in

MOXUMENT TO LORD CORNWALLIS.

6Q

Mecca

their pilgrimage to

and

man

pot in the hand, as a

holding a flower-

does, in a sort of sacred

Bombay,

enclosure or garden near to

have grown through the back of

are like the talons of a bird

it,

till

the roots

and

his nails

these and other such

vain and useless penances are too well attested to

require

any confirmation

from me.

deeds I have myself witnessed

upon landing

in

for

Many

such

the stranger,

Bombay, generally takes an

early

opportunity of seeing some of these poor deluded

creatures,

who

are to be

met with

in its vicinity.

In the centre of a large railed enclosure in the

Fort, there
to

monument erected
Comwallis, who superseded the

a very handsome

is

the Marquis of

celebrated

Warren Hastings

general of India.

in the office of Governor-

You seldom

pass

groups of people lounging about

up

steps leading

to

it

it,

it

without seeing

or sitting on the

and the natives are very

fond of throwing in under the dome that protects the

figure, flowers

and

bits of coloured paper,

and these

have gradually accumulated in such heaps as almost

to conceal

two melancholy marble

ladies,

who

are

gazing sweetly on the besieger of Seringapatam.

Upon making some

flowers, &c.,

inquiries, I learned that these

were thrown in as

the hero had been

Mohammedans

but

made an
this is

offerings,

idol of

and that

by some of the

not correct; they only

PUBLIC EDIFICES.
resort

hither

retired place,

from

because

to pray,

67
is

it

and the poor Parsee has a better view

this elevated position of the rising sun.

The town-hall forms one

certainly a very elegant building.

of

it

are the

news-room and

Hindoo

some curious

Indian antiquity.
Society here holds
hall is

its

and

side of this square,

is

library,

deities,

At one end
which contain

and other

relics

of

branch of the Royal Asiatic

meetings.

Close to the town-

an enormous circular tank, capable of supplying

the whole garrison, and those

walls,

and

a quiet

who

reside within the

with water, in case of any popular outbreak

and about two hundred yards

the harbour,
building,

is

Bombay

distant,

and overlooking

Castle, a strong substantial

swarming with sepoys and

Green, as this square

with rows of trees

now turned
stands near

is

called, is

officers.

The

prettily planted

and the old government-house,

into a secretariate, cathedral,

and mint,

it.

Bombay is always a very busy

East India Company build all their

The dockyard
scene, as the

at

steam and war ships there, and numbers of

the

native labourers are employed in their construction

they are superintended

gineers, and,

by Scotch or English en-

with the aid of their instructions, the

machinery of these
Indian navy,

is

vessels,

there

intended chiefly for the

made and put

together; for-

THE SEPOYS.

Q8
merly,

was sent out

it

and of

in a finished state,

course at a great expense.

As

harbour of

the

Bombay

is

thouglit

be

to

unequalled in British India, and so favourably situated for commerce, with the advantage of

most excellent

tide-water,

its

deep

docks have been con-

The

accommodation of shipping.

structed for the

Malabar supply them with abundance of

forests of

the finest teak timber for building purposes.

There are three principal entrances into the Fort

gateways,

military-looking

handsome,

fine,

with

guard-houses erected over their arches, and three or

four sally-ports between them, that run under the

massive

fortifications,

narrow foot-bridge.
slopes

down

and cross the wet moat by a

strong

to the esplanade.

at nine o'clock, every evening,

fire

(daylight),

the

in

embankment
They

are all closed

and opened

morning.

outside

Sentries

at

gun-

are

on

guard here, night and day.

Bombay
sailors

and

has long been the nursery for our native

soldiers

and the sepoy

is

proud of the

rank which he sustains in our armies of the East.

But neither he nor

give up old

his superior officers can entirely

customs and habits

and when the

duties of parade are over, and they return to their

barracks,

you

will

commonly

find

them squatted

in

the centre of the room, eating their rice and curry

THE ENGLISH SOLDIER IN

out of

Their pay

cliattees.

than that of the

less

is

69

INDIA.

English soldier, but their wants are fewer in com-

No

parison.

one can find

fault

with this arrange-

ment, when we consider what our countrymen have

often to suffer in this burning climate, banished as

they

are, for

own happy
who

live

a period of twenty -cme years, from their

How

land.

few,

to return with

they went out

'Tis

how

very few, are those

the regiment with which

true,

we hear

of

such and

such companies arriving at Chatham and elsewhere,

from India, in good health,

absence

composed

how many

but
it

do

and

who

originally

that,

his

with care, he

every year for old age, should

to prolong his life

Yet

not appear to daunt the

He knows

British soldier.

India,

those

that length of

are to be found in its ranks

circumstances

these

of

after

for the

pay

may

will

lay

be good in

by a

little

please Providence

it

Honourable East India

Company are noble pay-masters to all their servants

and we often find in their employ many of England's
bravest sons.

T have heard

it

stated,

soldier sent out to India costs the

for the

90

voyage alone.

allowed to every

that

every

Government .25

This enormous expense, with

officer,

may

account for the

length of the period during which they are required

to

remain in India.
Camels, bufialoes, and other large native animals,

70

PRINTING IN INDIA.

are not permitted to be led through the streets of

Bombay,

as they startle the horses

them

met with outside oa the

are

a truly Eastern

character

to

but groups of

esplanade, and give

the

scene.

shall,

however, have occasion to allude again to this gay

place, as

it

when every

appears in the hot season,

and resident able to command a buggy,

stranger

turns out for a drive of an hour or two before dinner.

There are two or three good weekly papers published

Bombay, and the same number

in

The

Hindoostannee language.

made

advance

great

here,

graphic branch, which

But

languages.

it is

is

in

the

art of printing

has

particularly

the

litho-

well adapted to Eastern

to be lamented that Christians

should use this valuable gift for the dissemination

of

such

works as the Koran, kc.

Since

left

Bombay, an Indian paper informs me that 15,000

copies of this

and sold

at

work have been

lately

worked

off,

two rupees a copy. Formerly, the Koran

could not be purchased for less than twenty or thirty

rupees.

THE RAINY SEASON.

CHAPTER

"Two

71

III.

tyrant-seasons rule the wide domain,

Scorch with diy heat, or drench with floods of rain

Now

feverish herds rush

And

cool in shady streams their throbbing veins j

The

birds drop lifeless from the silent spmy,

And Nature
Then

And

faints

maddening

beneath the

fiery

o'er the plains.

day

bursts the deluge on the sinking shore.

teeming plenty opens

Those who

all

her store."

are familiar only with the climate of

England, with

its

the wild aspect of

sunshine and
its

its

storms, and with

long dreary winters, when the

northern districts of our island put on so early their

mantle of snow, and rivers and

their icy prisons, are
invisible

hand

lakes, locked

bound together

those

who

for

up

in

weeks by an

are accustomed to the

regular variations of temperature, which, notwith-

standing the frequent and sudden changes that

we

experience from heat to cold, give an almost decided

THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON.

72

sum up our

character to the four seasons that

year,

can form but an imperfect idea of other lands, where

the

sun,

scarcely

snow

for

eight

months out of the

shadowed by a cloud, and where

unknown.

are almost

her resources; and the more

the more

twelve,

we

Nature

we

is

frost

and

boundless in

inquire and examine,

wonder and admiration

are lost in

is

at

the great scheme for carrying on so beautifully the

designs of the Creator, so that seed-time and harvest,

summer and

winter, shall

and God's promises stand

Though some
vision has been

fast for ever.

districts of

months together

India are often

without rain,

made

be given to man,

still

nine

yet an ample pro-

to counteract the

so long a drought, upon a country so

to a burning sun.

left

effects of

ill

much exposed

Vegetation, which with us would

speedily perish without an abundant supply of rain,

is

there sufficiently nourished by that moisture which

plants, as they bud,

fruit,

and blossom, and produce

their

have the power of hoarding up and retaining

from one rainy season

dews that nightly

fall

to another,

upon

and by the heavy

expanded

their

large,

rains,

commonly

leaves.

Those remarkable periodical

the south-west Monsoons, generally set in at

called

Bombay

about the month of May, and terminate at the close

of August.

Three weeks or a month before their

PREPARATIONS FOR THE STORM.

commencement, some

73

light precursory showers pass

over the land, but they seldom continue more than

a day or two, and are succeeded by the usual hot

and

Occasionally the preparatory

clear weather.

is

accompanied by thunder and lightning

is

not an invariable

are called

"

fall

but this

These preparatory rains

rule.

mangoe showers

who

the natives,

"

have given them this appellation, believing that that

delicious fruit, the

come

India, could not

How

mangoe, the boast of

far this opinion

but certain

it is,

to perfection without them.

may be

that the

correct, I

mangoe begins

this particular period of the year,

which makes

rich yellow tinge,

this part of

know

not

to ripen at

and to acquire that

it

so conspicuous on

the tree.

To man,

these showers act as a warning to set his

house in order

storm

may

arise,

he cannot

for

that

with dreadful fury.

must

tell

how soon

ere long burst

Consequently,

all

the

upon him

persons, at this

season of the year, are busy tarring, painting, and

repairing the tiles or thatch forming the covering of
their houses,

to the

and making

coming

rains.

all secure,

The sewers

and impervious

in the streets,

and

other water-courses, are examined and put into good

order,

and the large

inhabitants

artificial tanks,

from which the

look anxiously for their eight months'

supply of water, are freshly cemented and carefully

74

CHANGES.
Tents are

repaired.

now taken down, and

porary abodes erected on

and other

the tem-

the esplanade, sea-shore,

cool situations, are speedily cleared off the

ground, and stored away in warehouses in the Fort,

until the return of the settled weather.

The merchant now thinks

cases, as

flooded,

he

is

aware that the rivers

the

plantations,

busy collecting
fallen

soon he

In the cocoa-nut and

all

old toddy-drawers

are very

the large spreading leaves that

and been stripped from these valuable

trees, for the

sheds for

will

and that the Tapall must swim over with

the post-bags on his head.

have

necessary to enclose

country despatches in oiled or waxed paper

all his

date

it

purpose of covering in verandahs and

cattle,

and

class of natives.

for rain dresses for the poorer

Shcgrams,

buggies,

and bullock

hackery conveyances, have their sun-shades taken

and varnished coverings put on

are

carefully

and

all

off,

palanquins

examined, and their cracks

filled

up

with putty or chunam.

Those who can afford glass windows in their

bungalows have them now put

in,

to supply the place

common open Venetian blinds

monument on the esplanade, erected
of the

of the Marquis of Wellesley,

wooden box
tect

it,

to be

built

is

and the large

to the

memory

enclosed by a huge

around the Iron railings that pro-

no more stared

at

by the Portuguese, or

by the modern

criticised

the

until

rains

are

months

to

arrivals

over.

regiments at out-stations,
for

75

GRIFFIN.

Officers

commanding-

who have been expecting

the

receive

from England,

welcome orders from

head quarters to march, have now ceased to hope for

any change

November.
China

The bazaars

also

after October, or the

till

of

beginning of

display a great variety of

French, English, and native

chittrees or umbrellas

and the making-up of

and other warm clothing

for the

leaf

flannel

European part of

the population, affords abundant employment to the

Dergees.

American boots and shoes have great

those
neat,

manufactured in the country, though

and well adapted

stand the wet

the

first

upper
[

sale

stance, I

very

for dry weather, will not

the tanning of the leather

few showers separate the soles

leather.

Not being aware

is

bad, and

from the

of this

circum-

was one day deprived of the heel of

boot when out walking

for

my

and I was heartily laughed

at

on

my

return home, and immediately set

a " Griffin, " a term

commonly

down

applied to those

as

who

have not passed twelve months in the country, and

gone through the usual amount of Indian troubles

and annoyances.

The day

at length arrives

when

the windows of

heaven are to be opened, and man's anxious doubts

A HURRICANE.

76
and

fears are to

be dispelled by this gracious pro-

Dark

vision for his wants.

clouds, towards noon,

gather in the south-west, and gradually steal over

the azure firmament, casting a gloomy shadow upon
the earth, and obscuring the intensity of the sun's

they

rays, as

progress.

over his surface in their onward

flit

current of cool, strange air

now

Tlie ocean

some remarkable atmospheric change.

is

unusually agitated

hurried onwards as

denotes

the waves are lifted up and

tlie

breeze increases

the angry

waters come foaming and roaring towards the shore,

and are broken with violence upon the

ceding but to

break again with

far

down

the coast, and

redoubled

among

Distant peals of thunder echo

rocks,

re-

force.

the lofty ghauts

forked

vivid streams of

lightning illumine their peaked summits.

The dry

leaves of the lofty palms rattle overhead,

and the

forests are agitated

and shaken as the hurricane roars

through their solemn

their profound stillness.

outstretched wings, as
lone perch, and

The

cattle

driven
shelter

is

vistas,

and breaks

The soaring
he

rises

hurried

in

upon

kite flaps his

alarmed from

away upon the storm.

on the plains congregate together,

by some

his

irresistible

and protection of each

as if

impulse to seek
other,

with their heads close to the earth, as

and
if

lie

the

down

conscious of

approaching danger; and the poor Hindoo wraps

THE ARTILLERY OF HEAVEN.

his muslin

kummerband

and exposes

folds,

The

become darkened, and sheets of blazing

light-

ning, followed

limbs

the

to

up by the roar of deafening thunder,

succeed each other with fearful rapidity

and, though

in broad day, the eye can scarcely bear to look

the flaming heavens, so intense

is

The elements

are indeed at war.

rain begin to

fall

and

within

Large drops of

falling, raise

up, in conse-

and then,

a brief space, the mighty floods

upon the

descend

thirsty land.

The tempest

is

behold, and

terrific to

He

beneath the storm.

shelter of his mud-built cabin,

seeks

in

man

high houses in the Fort of

every clap of thunder

and

heaven.
roof,

and

floors, are

vibrate

The
with

and windows, and

shaken by the loud

artillery of

down from every

broken streams bound over the sound-

streets as the flood rushes

and rubbish towards the

those persons

country,

Bombay

doors

ing verandahs below them,

To

the

and mutters a hurried

Torrents of water pour

in

trem-

haste

prayer to the stone idol which he has set up.

walls

upon

their brightness.

quence of their weight, a cloud of dust

bles

his

chilly blast.

delicately-formed
skies

tighter around him, as the

many

cool air expands its

77

and who,

sweeping the various

onward, laden with

mud

sea.

who have but

just arrived in the

having never experienced the

78

MOSQUITOES.

FLYING

BUGS.

WEASELS.
have formed

setting in of this remarkable season,

from description

but

change, the scene

is

an

imperfect

exceedingly at this

suffers

ticular,

that everything around her

Yet

or washed away.

we

is

seriously injured.

island, of old palm-trees

blown

leaf-roofs being dispersed to the four

winds of heaven
in a

impression,

hear of exposed houses being struck

by lightning on the
and of

being

very seldom that acci-

dents occur, or that property

Occasionally

par-

about to be destroyed

is

is

it

in

period,

herself of the

to divest

scarcely able

that

of

pregnant with horror of every

The newly-arrived English-woman,

kind.

<lown,

idea

for

woe be unto him who

bungalow with a bad

spouts are out of order

roof,

lives

or in one whose

but, with these exceptions,

Europeans on shore have but

little

to be alarmed

about for their personal safety.

Myriads of mosquitoes,
rains,
if

fill

your apartments

now

driven

in

and your lamps

by the
at night,

not properly covered over with a glass shade, are

liable to

beetles

be suddenly extinguished by the large green

that

without.

have sought shelter from the storm

Flying bugs almost poison you with their

foetid effluvia,

and contaminate every

upon which they may chance

article of food

to alight.

The musk-

weasels dart in under your China matting, and find

their

way

into

your wine-cellars, and every cork

LIZARDS.

CENTIPEDES.

SPIDERS.

they touch, every bottle they

and

really

useful

your walls in

reptile,

directions,

all

the

upon the

flies

79

That nimble

spoil.

house-lizard,

climbs

and comes out so regu-

from under your table

larly

FLEAS.

after dinner to feed

you quite look

attracted thither, that

for the active little creature as a matter of course,

amuse you during

to

dessert time

and

if

he

fail

to appear, express regret, as I have heard an old

The loathsome

gentleman do, at his non-arrival.

centipede gets into your coo king- houses, and hideous

bodies and long legs, take

spiders, with hairy

their quarters in every available corner

They

way.

own

our

like

species,

and of taking

be sent them

their chance of

they should pay

make

but they must

visits to

season had brought

them

if it

home

though small

respectable

over the establishment, as

the

and door-

are not content with staying at

quietly,

what may

daily tours all

were expected that

one another, now that the

into town.

entomological tormentors

of India

In

fact,

night.

and farewell to

curtains display

The punkahs

kept up around you day and

Ants creep up your

your body;

rooms,

is

all

appear to

have a design upon your house and happiness.

continual buzzing

up

any rents

legs,

while fleas irritate

sleep,

if

your gauze

at bed-time.

or swinging fans, suspended in your

now have

rest

from their labours, for the

80

PALANQUIN-BEARERS.

atmosphere

is

currents of

air.

sufficiently cool

artificial

The sweet-scented cuscusmats, or

hung outside between

tatties,

without any

tlie pillars

that support

your verandah, and kept wet, in order to lower the

temperature of the heated breeze before

your house, are

now

taken

down and

and quite a change takes place

within doors.

The poor

laid

enters
aside

in all your little plans

thinly-clad labourers are

dreadfully susceptible of cold

welcoming the monsoons

it

now

and instead of

as a providential visitation

ordained by the Almighty for their especial good,

they gnmible at their long continuance, and rejoice
at their departure.
'Tis true the natives suffer

season from fever and ague

palanquin-bearers,

who

are

much
;

at this inclement

and the hummals or

necessitated

constantly in the rains while

carrying

to be out
their

em-

ployers to the various scenes of their daily duties, are

much

to be pitied, as they are liable to attacks of

rheumatic

fever,

and often

and cholera in a few hours.

strange

figures,

fall

victims to dysentery

These persons are such

and are dressed up in such odd

garments, with their heads and faces tied up to protect

them from the weather, that

it

is

difficult

decide to what caste or country they belong.

class of labourers, they often excited

as I

my

to

As a

compassion,

must say with our good queen Elizabeth, that

DISCOMFORT OF PALANQUINS.
it is

degrading to see

men groaning under

of their idle fellow-creatures

to the sun, as they cannot,

carry any

shield

mode

palan-

them from

its

T never felt comfortable in one

of these palanquins, and hope

will

direct exposure

when bearing a

chittree to

dangerous heat.

nor

the weight

and in India these poor

much from

wretches have to endure

quin,

81

some humane gover-

endeavour to do away with this fashionable

of conveyance

and that the poor hummals,

may

so long neglected,
civilization.

rise

in the scale of

little

have seen them deposit their

human

burdens, after a long journey, perhaps of four or

five miles in the

hot season, and sink

exhausted upon the

door-step,

bodies

and

often,

bathed in profuse

down from

perspiration that poured

upon such

down almost
their panting

thought of the comparatively luxurious

You

our hackney coachmen.

the day, week, or

own

month

have

lives led

by

occasions,

hire these

but

if

men by

you keep your

palanquin, they are considered as part of your

domestic establishment, and reside in the compound,

or somewhere close to your residence.

and uncomfortable

Palanquins are close

and, moreover, are extremely

or out

of.

They

awkward

affairs,

to get into

are something resembling a sedan-

chair turned over

upon

out at each end

which

its side,

pole,

with a pole sticking

when

elevated, rests

THE GREAT PAINTER.

82

upon the shoulders of the

While carrying

bearers.

them, the hummals have often to rest and change

sides, as the

swinging motion of the machine soon

injures the shoulder, though well protected

How

woollen pad.

any man can

call it

by a

soft

a luxury to

be carried about the country in one of these close

boxes, at the expense of so

much seeming

suffering

to his fellow-creatures, I cannot conceive.

We
little

will

now steal

out from our bungalow, caring

for the pelting storm, for

we

shall

keep under

the magnificent plantain leaves that hang over the

and take a peep

foot-path,

the fields and woods

and

at the face of nature

see the

at

wondrous change

whicli a few days' rain has produced in the vegetable

world.
" But

Like Nature

Amidst

And
And

its

who can

paint

can imagination boast,

gay creation, Lues like hers;

them on so delicately fine,

lose them in each other, as appears
In every bud that blows? If fancy, then.
lay

Unequal,

Ah

fail

what

beneath the pleasing task.

shall language

The dry and burnt up

do]"

plain, that crackled

feet like the stubble of harvest,

fine grass a foot deep,

which

is

is

now

under our

covered with

and of that rich emerald green,

so refreshing to the eye,

and so novel

in its

RAPID VEGETATION.

83

appearance, that you feel transplanted, as

some strange

The united

moisture are at work.

sent forth

some new

gums which
and

them

are

now

duce a luxuriance of vegetation

dissolved

unknown perhaps

more

like the

in

earth.

The extraordinary and rapid growth of

planted, appears

The

at this season pro-

any other country on the face of the

now

and the

perfume around you.

and mild temperature

and

and shrub has

tree

leaves or tender shoots,

diffuse a delicious

cool rains

influence of heat

Every

so long protected

were, to

waving meadows of

land, or to the

England's Spring.

it

all

seeds

work of enchant-

ment, than the slow progress of nature familiar to

The gourd, melon,

us in our northern latitudes.

and cucumber, have

peasant's hut,

now gained

the roof of the

and promise by their shining blossoms

a plentiful supply of their cooling fruits

season shall arrive.
the dry
to be

Trees and plants, that during

months had shut up

all

their pores, so as not

robbed of their juices by evaporation,

roots, that lay buried in the

clay

when the hot

districts,

now

spring

and

deep sands or strong

suddenly into

life

and

beauty, in places that were before barren to the eye.

Creeping plants, that run along

embrace the trunks of

trees,

the ground,

now

and ascend them with

astonishing rapidity, running out

upon

and so travelling from one to another,

their branches,
till

the forests

THE FOREST.

84

the neighbourhood of

ill

and canopied

together,

Bombay appear

to be

bound

by the thousand lovely

over,

climbers that cast an almost night-like gloom on

all

things below them.

From some

may

of these branches

be seen the

charming blossoms of the convolvulus, and other

flowering parasitical plants, floating between heaven

and earth
floods of

graceful

in
rain,

uninjured by the

and affording support to

and

delicate birds

festoons,

and the

soft

are

from the
fruits

Author of nature.

alive with the feathered tribes,

cooing of the turtle-dove, a bird held

sacred in India,

The golden

now

those

would perish without

insects that

this beautiful provision of the great

The woods

all

is

oriole,

repeated for miles around you.

and the azure

lofty trees,

now

feast

descending

jay,

upon the

and our own English barn-door

stately jungle-cock,

luscious
bird,

makes the coverts ring

the

again

with his loud and familiar note, as he sweeps through

the

sounding

woods, and

lost

is

in

their

deep

shadows.

We

must now turn

aside

from these pleasing

pictures of the Indian forest, at which

hurriedly glanced.

many

Memory

fails

me

we have but

in recalling the

beauties that surround us here on

all

sides,

and the abundant supply of food that the

fields

promise to man.

The

sea,

formerly so transparent

POST- OFFICE

MISMANAGEMENT.

that carry

now discoloured by the

down enormous quantities

their swift

and destructive progress.

and

serene, is

traffic

85

large rivers,

of earth in

All

coasting

has ceased, and the cocoa-nut-sewn pattemars

and fishing dingie have sought the shelter of some

months

friendly creek or land-locked bay, for three

The Company's steamers change the time

at least.

Aden and

of their going to

overland mails

and whereas a very brief delay

any other time, cause alarm, a week's

would, at
detention

the Persian Gulf with the

now beyond

their time

of with surprise, as every one

is

is

scarcely

spoken

aware that the mon-

soons are the cause.

Internal communication

person

who can

land or water.

is

now

possibly avoid

The mail bags,*

and no

laid aside,

it,

travels either

usually forwarded

by
by

The Bombay Times thus describes the present bad

management (1849) of the post-ofi&ce in Gangetic India.
" Newspapers are charged by weight, so that before they can
pass for single postage, they must make use of the smallestsized sheet to be found in the meanest provincial town in
England the paper must be as thin as a bank note. In our
*

rainy season,
rapidly, as to

if

near

full

weight,

it

absorbs moisture so

be charged double postage at

the postage on a daily paper from

its

journey's end

moderate

distances

amounts to 5 a-year the mails are carried in leather bags

on men's heads, and are so negligently made up, that
;

they occasionally reach their destination in a state of pulp.

Thousands of rupees are annually abstracted from

and every variety of misconduct prevails.

letters^

TANKS FOR WATER.

86

runners, each a stage of three coss, or six miles, are

detained for weeks, before an opportunity occurs to

ford or SNvim over the swollen rivers and nullahs

work

much'

often of

difficulty

and danger.

reports of heart-rending shipwrecks

fill

Weekly

the native

papers, and a catalogue of flooded districts, and other

from the country, too often gives a painful

disasters

interest to the rainy season.

Yet we must not

lose sight of the goodness of

the Almighty, in sending these blessed showers at

stated periods

for,

were they but once withheld, the

most dreadful consequences must ensue, and thousands upon thousands of

human

We

creatures

would

perish for

want of water.

some

idea of the value of that necessary article,

little

when we

scattered over

see

are helped to form

India the enormous

public and private tanks, which at the rainy season

must be

replenished, to

meet the demands of a large

population like that of India, and which have been

erected at a

vast

never neglected

expense.

this

Its

all-important duty

building of tanks, long before

invasion,

Hindoo

was a common
rajahs,

to posterity,

who

successive

act of

and the

Mohammedan
charity among the
the

thus handed their names

and enriched the

rulers

districts in

down

which they

resided.

Shere Khan, a Patau

chief, set

a noble example

BAD POLICY OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY. 87

He

to others.

formed a high road across the entire

breadth of Hindostan, from the Ganges to the Indus,

along which he caused fruit trees to be planted, a

two

well to be sunk every

provided at every stage, so that travellers

be

to

might be accommodated
Ferose the Third,
his

who

hundred

reign a

thirty colleges, with

also

and a caravansera

miles,

is

the

at

public

said to have built during

Some

and

bridges, forty mosques,

many

other works of

utility,

purposes

erected thirty reservoirs for the

irrigation,

expense.

of

and the general good of the country.

of these tanks, which have now, through

the bad policy of the East India

allowed to

fall

Company, been

into a sad state of decay, are

very handsome and

remarkable

still

One

buildings.

which I saw in Guzerat, cost originally, as I was

told,

nine lacs of rupees in

even in the dry season,

it

its

construction

and

contained an abundant

supply of the coolest and purest water.

I recollect

being surprised, upon descending the long flight of

steps that led to

it,

the large bull-frog,

little

tortoise

to see the place

and with a curious species of

these creatures, as I

by those who went down

fostered

swarming with

to

was informed

draw the water, were

and preserved, as they contributed to ensure

the purity of the water,

in motion.

by keeping

it

continually

CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE.

88

wealthy native, wlio had perhaps committed

some dreadful

crime, and

repented, would often

who on

will

away a

money, to be expended in a particular

large

under these circumstances, even

life-time of the
this to

individual,

where

have been

during

who

of

the

knew

well

be the greatest boon that could be conferred

upon an
lias its

unhappy

sum

district

Many

water was scarce, in a public tank.

built

had

his death-bed

Every town and

agricultural people.

tank

many

village

boast of three or four, and the

large capitals are generally well supplied with draw-

and natural

wells

reservoirs in their neighbourhood,

which by their presence often assure the wearied

foot-sore traveller, that his journey

In Bombay, the pluvia-metre

close.

the

is

rainy

sea.son

with

quantity of water that

much
in

falls

drawing to a
watched in

is

anxiety

and

and about that

the

island,

is satisfactorily ascertained.

The change

that takes place during the continu-

ance of the south-west monsoons, from a temperature

of 100 or 120 deg., to one of 05 or 70,

is

European

now

delightful to the

and

delicious,

spring.

comfort,
large

for the air is

cool

resembling the close of an English

Woollen clothing may now

and

truly

ladies

l)e

worn with

wrap themselves up in

Cashmere shawls and Delhi

scarfs,

the bracing and invigorating breeze.

their

and enjoy

Your

sleep is

THE TNVALID TN

89

INDIA.

sweet and refreshing, and you rise in the morning

with an energy and

life

unknown

in the hot months;

and though females cannot take much exercise out

of doors, yet they suffer not from confinement, as

a hundred

little

occupations

now engage

any degree

tention, that could not be pursued with

The lounging couch

of pleasure before.

and the Anglo-Indian lady

is

their at-

is

deserted,

once more acting in

the capacity of an industrious house-wife.

To

carry out our reminiscences of this eventful

we

division of the Indian year,

gently draw

will

aside the silken screen that closes the entrance to

that

still

chamber, where only the voice of pain and

passive suffering

is

occasionally heard to

The musshall has placed

upon the death-like

silence.

upon the

hand-punkah, which

floor the

broken by constant use through

He

burning days.
it

now.

is

torn and

thinks that massa can do without

sufferer's attention,

his face, moist with the

death, a

grateful shower of

that rest

on the hollows of

Nature's tears.

and

restless nights

bunch of roses and white mogree

soms engages the

upon

break in

blos-

and he shakes

dews of approaching
bright

little

his cheeks.

His long thin

globules,

They

are

fingers untie the

slender cord that binds these cherished flowers together,

and a half-expanded

the rains,

is

rose, still

drooping with

now

trembling with

raised to the lips

90

VAIN HOPES.

emotion.

Beautiful flower

past dost thou conjure up

fountains, shady woods,
gales

what visions of

green

in

flower

and refreshing and balmy

down

child-

quick review before the dying man.

falls

are united

tlie

bubbling

fields,

and the oft-traversed scenes of early

hood pass

The

from

his

hand

to bitter tears,

tliat

the

little

course

globules

their

way

sunken cheeks; and an agony of grief

his

disturbs the swarthy attendant of the sick chamber,

who

has stolen an hour's sleep uiX)n the matting

at the foot of the bed.

Yet

this is a blessed season for the

invalid.

ment

poor English

After weeks, perhaps months, of confine-

to a bed of sickness, in a close

and heated

room, where neither day nor night has brought

relief,

from

he

oflers a thankful

whom

acknowledgment

to

proceedeth every good and perfect

Him
gift,

for the cool breeze that steals through his lattice,

and once more fans

his feverish

Hope, that seemed, as

its

he was concerned, to

farewell, again returns.

have bid the world

with

far as

and burning brow.

Home,

sweet endearments, rushes upon the wander-

ing memory, and his thoughts return to that far

distant land, which he will never see again.

expiring spark of

life

the reviving breeze

talks of a

still

burns, and

is

The

fanned by

and the death-stricken invalid

thousand things which he

shall

do when

ENGLISH FLOWERS AND FRUIT.

be a

shall

lie

now

he must

down

recover

feels certain that

and he longs to be carried

in his palanquin to the shore, to see riding at

anchor those English

is

He

stronger.

little

91

to bear

one of which, he hopes,

him away from the Indian land

come

home no more.

will see his distant

indeed, "

vessels,

but he

change has,

dream."

o'er the spirit of his

Instead of pampering the taste, and tempting

it

with curries, and omelets, and other made dishes,

you have now a natural

Your water and

appetite.

wine require no

artificial

pride themselves

on the firmness of

and the durability of

butcher's

may even

meat

cooling

their

jellies

Your

hlanc-mange.

their

will

keep longer uncooked, and you

calculate

upon seeing your saddle of kid

a second time upon your table, cold.

to melt

and the ladies

when out

Butter ceases

of water, and custards manufac-

tured in the morning do credit to the cook at supper

time.
It is pleasing to see boxes of mignonette, sweetpeas,

and pots of

roses, flourishing in the verandah.

Even

apple-trees

and gooseberries are cherished in

this country as great rarities,

the

fondest

England,

care,

and

they speak

fond

of

happy

affections

and

was

light

and

Indeed, you can almost discover the

resi-

of

associations of the

young.

because

and are tended with

all

the

heart

when

it

THE MANGOE FEAST.

92
deuces of

our

mementoes of
idea

countrywomen

fair

how high

a value

set

is

Long may

a foreign land.

Few

home.

their early

by these

little

can form an

upon these

trifles in

the exiled daughters of

Britain cherish these sweet feelings, nor allow the

an

transitory pleasures of
attractive

wean

or brilliant, to

from the land of their birth

Now,

too,

Eastern

to a great variety of

and

carrots, the beautiful

egg-plant, tomatoes, green chillies

many

others,

markets

and

the water and

away

The common and sweet

vegetables at your table.

turnips,

their hearts

you look forward

potatoes, yams,

however

life,

and ginger, and

to be purchased in the native

are

delicious fruits

musk

abound everywhere

melons, cut in

slices,

are

hawked

about the streets in large baskets, and your servants

are devouring cucumbers, white

sugar-cane,
closed

all

Your gardens

day long.

and

onions,

up with flowery shrubs, and the

new

are almost

air is scented

with the jasmine and powerful tube-rose.

And now comes

fresh

the long-looked-for

mangoe

feast,

and luscious from the famed plantations near

Mazagaon.

The

guests being seated round a table,

each with a long napkin tucked under his chin, and

his coat- sleeves turned

up

basketful of the fruit

placed in the centre of the

is

to the elbows,

a large

board, and you are soon almost suffocated with the

THE PINE-APPLE.
powerful aroma that pervades

number of mangoes that a

tlie

93

may

practised person

eat with impunity, is really astonishing.

pale brandy

The

apartment.

little

taken afterwards, by way of security,

is

and a bath, to get rid of the jaundiced complexion,

is

sometimes absolutely necessary.

is

made from

quite ripe

the fruit before

it is

delicious pickle

and

it

enters very largely into the composition of chutnee, a

curious mixture

made

much used

in curries

and Indian

dishes.

Many
chants of

attempts

have been made, by the mer-

Bombay,

to send this truly royal fruit to

England.

mangoes was forwarded over-

case of

land as a present to her Majesty, at Windsor, packed

and hermetically sealed

in cotton wool,

but whether

they arrived sound or not, I never learned

custard-apples,
this season

at

and

figs,
;

and

pines,

pared to our English

may

why

culture

is

off,

all

are very

fruit,

the

little

common, and

One

by native gardeners.

allowed to nurse

it

from man.

the year round.

is

great

coarse and indiffe-

attention bestowed

and struck into the

assistance
'

is,

plentiful

though not to be com-

the pine-apple here

rent in flavour

cut

are

be purchased for an anna or two.

reason

its

shaddocks,

Guavas,

The crown

soil again,

is

upon

simply

and Nature

own way, without any

Plantains we have in Bombay

in her

They

are very

good

fried,

and

94 REGULATION OF THE WET AND DRY SEASONS.

are a

wholesome and nutritious

Oranges and

fruit.

grapes do not appear to grow well on the island,

and Poonah supplies the

tables of the rich at

bay with these universal

Towards the
light

favourites.

close of the

monsoons the

rains are

and mild, and bright sunshine intervenes beIn general, the rains are more

tween the showers.

abundant in the

first

than in the second half of the

They pour down

season.

many

Bom-

at

Bombay

in torrents for

hours together, sometimes for days, at their

commencement

which,

after

weather clears up, and very

As

the night.

about

little

sunset,

the

rain falls during

the wet and dry seasons, in this part

of India, are not regulated by the position of the

sun, but

by the change

abundance of rain
which

what

lie

falls

in the trade winds, a greater

here than in those countries

without the tropics, and are subject to

are called variable rains.

In

this

case,

the

season of the rains depends entirely on the position

of the sun
zenith of

beginning before the sun reaches the

a place, and continuing for some time

after it has passed

it.

We

find

from observation,

that countries lying near the equator are never for

many

days without rain, and that in those that are

situated

more than

five

degrees

of

latitude

from

the line, the seasons are generally distinctly marked.

From

the rapid decomposition of vegetable matter,

COCOA-NUT DAY.
a sickly and

Bombay, and

season

trying
is

is

95

now

introduced

much dreaded by Europeans

From

at out-stations, or in the jungle.

cause, the atmosphere

at

residing

the same

with poisonous miasma,

is filled

destructive to the health of the inhabitants

agues and the jungle-fever

and

spread amongst those

that are exposed to the infected

In the low

air.

dis-

tricts,

where the rains have been excessively heavy,

many

large tracts being flooded a foot or

two deep,

the exhalations load the atmosphere with a vapour so

Dysentery,

dense, as to obscure the stars at night.

also, is

now

prevalent, more, perhaps, at this critical

period than at any other

may

which

in a great

measure be attributed to the abundance of green

food.

Soldiers

are,

on

account, forbidden

this

guava;

eat the fruit of the

that fruit being con-

and

sidered as very unwholesome,

luce this

[Great

igainst the

is

necessary,

at

this

disease.

season, to guard

sudden changes of temperature.

great

known

as liable to pro-

most distressing and dangerous

care

to

Hindoo

festival

as cocoa-nut day.

is

now

celebrated,

and

This holiday occurs on

the 18th of August; at which time the season

supposed to open for

coasts,
is

all

traffic

with the neighbouring

and native boats may venture out to

sea.

a day of unusual excitement and merriment

Bombay

is

is

abroad to see the

fair

It

and

and the pro-

96

HINDOO SUPERSTITION.
Thousands from

cessions that take place.

all

parts

of the island assemble upon the sea-shore in Back

Bay, even so far as Malabar Point, bein^ accom-

panied by
attendants,

and

who

bring with them

mimic temples,

flowers,

and bearers and

priests, j ogees, gosaens,

gilt cocoa-nuts,

packages of cinnabar,

deities,

all sorts

of things to be presented as offeriogs

to the ocean.

Faquirs, and a host of other idle and

worthless characters,
arrack, vary the

mad

with opium, bhoeng, and

amusements of the pleasure-seeking

multitude, by acting the part of clowns in the most

grotesque and ridiculous manner, with their faces,

arms, and legs, daubed with paint, and their bodies

decked out with scraps of ragged

make up a
sea,

and

try to

make

and go down to the

sort of procession,

cast in their

which they

gilt cocoa-nuts,

the uninitiated in

They

finery.

Hindoo mysteries and

believe are of solid gold, but unfortunately

frauds

they too often

float.

Temples, flowers, and tinsel

ornaments, follow one another as propitiatory

and every good Hindoo

ings

offer

up a

prayer, to the effect that

once more to tempt the

success

may

is

may

attend

wave

offer-

now supposed to
when he ventures

in

his frail

his expeditions,

bark,

and that he

never suffer shipwreck.

After these vain ceremonies are over, the roads

are once

more

lined with thousands

who

are

making

FISHING EE-COMMENCED.

way

their

and

to the native village,

where a grand

going on in honour of the day.

festival is

night

97

and

usually passed in drunkenness

is

fair

The

rioting,

by the

rabble

Hindoo,

after prostrating himself in the temple, or

bathing in

the

though

portion;

sacred

tank, returns

early hour to recount the

many

female portion of his

the

the

respectable

home

at

an

events witnessed to

family

women

being

seldom allowed to participate in those pleasures so

eagerly sought after by their selfish lords.
It

day

a curious sight to stroll along the shore the

is

after this

festival

covered

for

miles

flowers,

and

tinsel,

had indignantly
after this

of cocoa-nuts, and

with heaps of

back again upon the beach

cast

fool- hardy

months

ber
to

is

still

continue unabated.

not over until the end of Septem-

and no sensible merchant

will allow his vessel

go to sea until the Elephanta gales have passed

away

yet the

Hindoo

sailors

wreck as impossible, as they

after this

has

venture out on

though the storms of

their short fishing excursions,

The monsoon

wood,

which the ocean, one would fancy,

day a few of the

the last three

painted

find it

been

now

look upon a ship-

feel a sort

of conviction,

ceremony, that old Father Ocean's anger

appeased, and

through their religious

if

belief,

any of them are

which

is

lost

often the case,

particularly during the dreadful hurricanes

of the

CLOSE OF THE MONSOONS.

98
Elephanta,

made a proper

And now
lovely in

put down to the score of not having

it is

all

offering.

for

many weeks

the glories of

the country

is

rich

and

productions, and

its floral

India may, in very truth, be called a land of sunshine

and

flowers.

flowers are

into

all

Perhaps there are few countries where

more loved and thought

They enter

of.

Indian feasts and festivals

Turbans are

ornamented with bunches of the large white jessamine, tied up with a rose in the centre

flowers are

strewed over the marriage-bed and hung in wreaths

round the necks of the favourite

deities in all the

temples and sacred places.

now brought

I have

have endeavoured to

the

monsoons

recall

to a close,

and

a few events connected

with this remarkable feature of the Indian year.

From

their termination to February, the cold

months

occur, but they are hardly to be distinguished

the hot and dry season that follows.

Bombay

experiences the

monsoon.

full effects

The

from

coast of

of the south-west

In July the rain increases in quantity,

and may be said to attain

its

maximum.

Slowly

decreasing in August, and more rapidly in September, it departs

the

first

amidst

or second

terrific

week

thunder-storms about

in October.

THE OLD TEMPLES.

CHAPTEE

99

IV.

" And near those mighty temples stand,

The miracles

of mortal hand.

Where, hidden from the common

The

past long-buried secrets

eye,

lie

Those mysteries of the first great creed

Whose mystic fancies were the seed
Of every wild and vain belief
That held o'er man their empire brief."

[The

old temples of India have long claimed from

the antiquary a large share of attention

not only

|n account of the peculiarity of their construction,

)ut also

because the period of their erection appears

Bn almost every
)bscurity.
"^structures,

case to be involved in the deepest

The hypogsea, or subterraneous cavern

concerning which

speak, are, perhaps, the

of

human

we have

at present to

most remarkable monuments

labour and perseverance to be

met with

100

INDIAN CHRONOLOGY.

in Asia.

Their prodigious extent, massiveness

structure,

and variety of design, lead us almost to

of

doubt whether many of them were not originally

natural cavities, enlarged and beautified by the

hand

of man.

In the mountains of the Soubah of Cashmere,

no fewer than twelve thousand of these grottocaverns have been explored, and found to be com-

posed of a
to be

series of

hewn out

apartments and recesses supposed

Those of Kailasa,

of the solid rock.

near Ellora, which are 247 feet long, and nearly 15

wide, are said to contain
of the Hindoos, though

by

Many

time.

of

all

the mythological deities

much

injured and defaced

them contain

statues of colossal

dimensions, and their walls are covered over with

elaborate embellishments of

the most fanciful de-

scription.

But we can place no dependence on the current

traditions

would be
history.

seem

of

the

East

fruitless to

it

attempt to trace their early

The ancient chronologers of India would

to have

had extraordinary notions of time

seeing that they

tell

us of kings

sands of years, and of rajahs

far

them, and

respecting

who

who

reigned thou-

attained an age

beyond the nine hundred and sixty-nine years

of the
tures.

Methuselah mentioned in the sacred Scrip-

SUBTERRANEAN CAVES.
The Brahmins

as oracles of

monks

power

draw

past, or to

of old in our

wisdom and

believed to have

by the people of

are regarded

India, as were the

101

own

country,

They alone

piety.

are

to reveal the secrets of the

aside the curtain which mercifully

human

shrouds the future from

Their state-

eyes.

ments and writings only serve yet further to perplex the confused accounts that have been handed

down from

past ages, and to

more uncertain and

make our

Thus, the won-

unsatisfactory.

mountain-caves and temples,

derful

the once

flourishing but

now

conjectures

situated

near

nearly deserted city

of Dowlatabad, are said to have been built by one

Ecloo, Rajah of Ellichpore, and to be seven thousand

nine hundred years old

such, at least, is the an-

them by the venerable

priests

generally conduct the visitor over these

Hindoo

tiquity assigned to

who

temples

now

once, doubtless, thronged

lonely

and

The temples

by worshippers

silent.

Aboo, a

of

lofty

mountain range

about forty miles from the military station of Deesa,

in Guzerat, have not been long discovered,

peculiarly interesting to the traveller,

and are

from the

being carved out of black

cumstance of their

all

marble

have just as doubtful a

but they

assigned to

them

cir-

date

as those of Dowlatabad, though,

perhaps (the hardness of the materials of which they

IDOL TEMPLES IN LONELY PLACES.

102

consist being taken into account), with

more pro-

bability.

It

is

necessary to bear in mind, that structures of

from exposure to

this description suffer very little

the dry atmosphere of a country like India.

own humid

climate

Here we sometimes

the

case

widely different.

is

find churches

In our

and public build-

ings crumbling into decay in the course of a single

century

and even the vaunted stone of Caen, in

Normandy, cannot withstand the " skiey

influences

"

of two.
It

may

appear,

at

first

sight,

people so skilful in the fine arts

by these

monuments

beautiful

singular,

as, if

that a

we may judge

of a past generation,

must have been the inhabitants of Hindostan, should

have selected such lonely and uncouth places for the
sites of their

caves,

temples.

idol

and almost

Islands,

subterranean

inaccessible mountains, appear to

have been their favourite

of buildings, which, as

localities for the erection

we cannot

doubt, were in-

tended as places for the daily celebration of their

peculiar worship.
that,

to

It

is,

however, to be considered,

from time immemorial, India has been a prey

marauding

desolated,

or

chiefs

and lawless usurpers, who robbed,

destroyed,

almost

every

important

place which they visited in their frequently-occurring

predatory excursions.

Many

of the idols set

up

in

THE

103

PRIESTS.

during the hours of devotion were

these temples

thought to be of great value

and

it is

not uncom-

mon

even

silver,

having for eyes diamonds and other precious

now

to

see

them formed of gold or

These idols offered great temptations to the

stones.

plunderer
to carry

and

it

was necessary,

therefore, in order

on the ceremonies inculcated in the sacred

Vedas, and, at the same time, to preserve the riches

of the temple from the spoiler's hand, that these

be erected in

should

buildings

way

great natural advantages in the

The

officiating priests

presenting

places

and other

of security.

officers

connected

with these religious establishments were accustomed

to reside

upon the

accommodation

spot, in

rooms

set apart for their

and the deluded worshippers who

came, often laden with offerings, to pray, cared

little

for distance, or for the difficulties of the road, seeing

that the

more dangers they encountered

their pious journeyings,

believed
character

temples,

their

of
it

is

service

the

rites

the
to

in these

more acceptable they

be.

Of

celebrated

the

in

needless here to speak.

licentious

these

Pagan

They have

passed away.

Enough, however, remains to show us

their nature.

While wandering over some of these

ruinous structures, once polluted by the exercise of a

vile

and debasing

superstition,

and crowded by a

degraded multitude who were, we

may

conclude,

MYTHOLOGIES OF EGYPT AND INDIA.

104
little

better than the people of

Sodom, and

like

unto

those of Gomorrah, the words of the prophet Jeremiah

flashed across
his

my mind

knowledge

graven image

"

Every man

every founder
for his

is

molten image

is

falsehood

they shall perish. "

The Right Rev. M.

brutish in

confounded by the

they are vanity and the work of others

of their visitation

is

in the time

Having

Russell, in his views of Ancient

Modem Egypt, says " There

is

a striking resemblance

and

known

to subsist between the usages, the superstitions, the arts,

and the mythology, of the ancient inhabitants of Western

India, to those of the first settlers on the upper Nile.
The
temples of Nubia, for example, exhibit the same features,
whether as to style of architecture or the form of worship to
which they were devoted, with the similar buildings which
have been recently examined in the neighbourhood of
Bombay. In both cases they consist of vast excavations
hewn out in the solid body of a hill or mountain, and are
decorated with huge figures which indicate the same powers of
nature, or ser\'e as emblems to denote the same qualities in
the ruling spirits of the universe.
hypothesis,
British

we

Army

As a

further proof of this

are infonned that the sepoys,

in

who joined

the

Egypt, imder Lord Hutchinson, imagined

that they found their

own temples

in the ruins of

Dendera,

and were greatly exasperated at the natives for their neglect

of the ancient deities whose images are still preserved. So
strongly, indeed, were they impressed with this identity, that

they proceeded to perform their devotions with

monies practised

in their land.

There

is

all

the cere-

a resemblance, too,

minor instruments of their superstition the lotus,

the lingam, and the serpent which can hardly be regarded
as accidental but it is, no doubt, in the immense extent,
in the

ARRIVALS FROM POONAH.

said thus

much

105

in reference to the ancient religious

buildings scattered over India, I shall

now proceed

to describe a delightful excursion to the island of

Gorapori, better known, for reasons that will appear

hereafter,

by the

familiar

name

was about three months

It

of Elephanta.

after the

monsoons had

ceased to deluge the land, that I received a note of

invitation to spend an evening in the Fort, to

few

and

friends,

who had

just

meet a

Mr. and Mrs. H.,

particularly a

come down from Poonah.

All the

great peoi)le liad gone to the Mahableshwur hills

the commander-in-chief having set the example

proceeding thither in great

numerous

retinue.

state,

by

surrounded by a

Those who did not

like

the

trouble of climbing these mountains, that rise to an

some 5036

elevation of

feet to the

south of Bombay,

or who, perhaps, could not afford to follow in the

wake

of the Burro Smb, ])ut

who

were, nevertheless,

the gigantic plan, the vast -conception, which appear in

their saci'ed buildings, that

we most

all

readily discover the in-

same lofty genius, and the endeavour to

accomplish the same mighty object. The excavated temples
of Guerfeh Hassan, for instance, remind eveiy traveller of
fluence of the

the cave of Elephanta.

The resemblance,

indeed,

is

singu-

as are, in fact, all the leading principles of

*
Egyptian architecture, and that of the Hindoos. *
larly striking

By whom and by what means

been accomplished,

is

these wonderful efforts have

a mystery sunk too deep in the abyss

of time ever to be revealed.

TRAVELLING IN INDIA.

106
anxious to

avoid

the

inconveniences

which,

at

Poonah, and in the neighbourhood, attend the hot

season, generally stepped into their palanquins early
in the morning, and, dismissing their bearers

proceeded by a

foot of the ghauts,

at the

coach to

fast

Panwelly and Bombay, the whole distance being only

Some came

75 or 80 miles.

who were

placed at good boarding-schools, conducted

by English masters
bathing

and

some

for

change of

air

and

list

home

for a

of

keepers-at-home

to

merchant princes of the East

by the military and

;

who, so great

must

persons

the

in pleasurable excursions.

introduce

here

whom

is

expend

cost of travelling in style in India, annually

enormous sums

stay

whole year being looked upon

as a thing exceedingly outre

sea-

others, to avoid l>eing enrolled in the

non-fashionable
quietly at

to visit their children,

to ray

readers

the two

have especially mentioned as being

present on the occasion to which I have alluded

characters

seldom met with

in

that gay country.

Mr. and Mrs. H. had passed the greater part of their

lives in India,

and were singularly attached

country in which they had

share of wealth, with

little

Scottish constitutions.

to the

acquired a competent

injury to their originally

Being

childless,

and having

no particular inducements to return to

their native

land, they had purchased or built a cool

bungalow in

107

CHRISTIANS.
the

neighbourhood of Pooiiah, and lived not for

themselves alone, but for the poor benighted heathen

around them

devoting

to

their advantage,

as

afterwards learned^ certain days in every week, and a

large

an honourably- acquired fortune.

portion of

These worthy people had resisted or avoided the

temptations into which so

many

fall

in the early part

of their Indian career, and had passed unscathed

through the

It

fire.

were

to say of

little

them that

they were regular in their habits, strictly honourable

in their engagements,

ing to outshine

beyond

their

and above the

Christians, not only in

Lsuch,

They were,

name but

in

in reality

fact,

and, as

pursued the even tenor of their way, with one

fixed purpose in view

the attainment of that rest

which remaineth for the people of God.

little

attempt-

expense of living

others, at the

own means.

folly of

for the scoffs

They cared

and sneers of the world, by

whom

they were regarded as enthusiasts and missionary-bit

fanatics
evil.

and were ever ready to return good

The broken-down

prosperity,

had cut them

officer,

for

who, in his days of

as not being persons of ton,

found a shelter under their hospitable roof ; and the

gay and thoughtless cadet, who once had laughed at

their wise

them
to

saws and Scottish proverbs, lived to thank

for snatching

him from

early destruction,

and

acknowledge them the instruments of his advance-

108

ment

PIC-NIC.

situations of

to

honour and usefulness.

company, these excellent persons were

cheerful

ness

retaining,

however, a

little

In

extremely

of

the

and formality of the old English

stiff-

school of

manners.

The good

lady's dress, too, exhibited the fashions

of a bygone age; and her husband's conversation

turned nmcli upon occurrences scarcely remembered

by

the present generation.

of something,
difficult to

spoke of railways, as
of which

consequences

the

fathom

He

and

was

it

feared, not altogether, per-

haps, without reason, that in a few years they would

quite change the character of his countrymen,

give

them a dangerous

taste

for

and
and

pleasuring,

spending their Sundays and holidays in the French

metropolis.

He remembered

the arrival of the

Mar-

quis of Comwallis in India, and had been at the

party given by Lord George Bentinck,

native gentry were
officers,

first

when

all

first

the

invited to meet the English

and were placed upon a proper footing in

society, with the

Londoners of Leadenhall

Street.

During the very agreeable evening which I passed

wa s

pro-

posed, that as there were several persons present

who

in the society of these excellent persons,

did not reside in Bombay, and had seen

charming scenery in

its

it

little

of the

neighbourhood, we should

arrange a pic-nic party for the

morrow

and the

AN INDIAN MORNING.

109

Island of Elephanta was at length fixed upon as the

We

place to be visited.

the understanding, that

separated, therefore, with

we should meet

at seven

on

the following morning, at the Apollo Bunda^ where

a fine boat, well secured from the sun, was to be

engaged.

By

gun-fire, the

The morning was

next day, I was up and ready.

lovely

but

this,

by-the-bye,

is

an

unnecessary and truly English observation, and one

which I was heartily laughed at for making, on

meeting a friend in India

On

there.

cdl

mornings being lovely

the present occasion, the

gardens and

compounds were refreshed by the heavy night-dews,

and the
nature.

fierce

sun had not yet scorched the face of

The wild gourd

still

leaves over the natives' huts

castor-oil tree, laden

spread out

its

broad

and the grape-leafed

with crimson clumps of spiny

seed-vessels, aj)peared to

be greener than ever

the cloudless sky was reflected from

upon the bosom of a flowing

tide,

its

and

azure depth

which came

steal-

ing onward, in gentle ripples, towards the shore.

Groups of children were scampering about naked in

the water, and allowing the waves to
as they

swam

roll

over them,

out into the sea, and floated back again,

to coax their swarthy little companions,

who were

splashing each other, to venture out further into the

deliciously cool element.

110

AQUATIC BIRDS.

Through the opening

in

my

tent,

made

admit

to

at pleasure the grateful breeze of the morning, I

could

command

the view across

Malabar Point, where,

floating in the

as

Back Bay

as far as

observed, a flag was

grounds attached to the residence of

the Governor of

Bombay, who had given a sumptuous

entertainment on the previous evening, and the returning carriages of whose guests had disturbed

me

Perched upon a piece of rock not

during the night.

yet covered by the advancing tide, a party of oystercatchers were

pluming

out their wings to dry

their feathers,
;

and spreading

and dozens of sand-pipers

and other aquatic birds were

to be seen sporting near

low, bushy mangroves,

and feasting upon the

the

marine insects which

infest their leaves.

The pawney waUaha were preparing

for the daily

supply of the different houses and tents, by

filling

their sheep-skin bags with water, at the large tanks

on the esplanade

and a camel-driver was leading

back to the encampment under the

walls, a

camel, that limped a good deal, as

if foot- sore

long journey over rough mountain -passes.

as the hour of seven

was

tolled

from the

poor stray

from a

Precisely
lofty

tower

of the English Cathedral in the Fort, I was upon the

Apollo Bunda, and joined a few friends, who had

been equally punctual with myself; nor had we long

to wait for the rest of the party.

THE MAHEATTA SHORE.

It proved, however, as

always does, whenever a

it

pic-nic party musters, that a great

articles

had been forgotten.

C,

that Mr.

The

gotten his cornopean.

duly sent

down

was missing.

many

First, it

man

the musical

Ill

was discovered

of the party, had forindeed,

case,

powder-flask

among

cussion-caps

to

we found

us,

we had no

that

and that there were no per-

the

fit

discharged in the caves

pistols

and

were

that

deficiencies
o'clock,

took time

before,

to

be

appeared that

lastly, it

To supply

no gentleman had brought a cork-screw.

nearly eight

had been

to the water-side, but the instrument

Next,

these various

necessary

and

that

satisfied

it

was

all

the

materials for the day's entertainment were on board,

we pushed

off

from the

and paddled out into the

pier,

bay, so as to obtain the full benefit of a flowing tide,

and of a

slight breeze

which attended

even at this comparatively

oppressive,

the Forto

early hour,

The

heat,

was most

ladies'

punkahs were put upon

we slowly

drifted past the walls of

and the

active service, as

it.

Mr. and Mrs. H. had declined to take

part in our excursion, but had promised to meet us in

the evening, and learn the events of the day.

The scenery around us was

was the Mahratta

its

spires,

on our right

shore, with the high western chain

of ghauts towering above

with

striking

it

on our

left

and mosques, massive

was Bombay,
fortifications,

A REMINDER OF HOME.

112

and old Mohammedan tombs,

morning

sun,

glittering in the bright

with here and

an enormous

there

cocoa-nut tree rising majestically from the mass of

public buildings

Colabah

behind us were the open sea and

and before us a strange

little

green hillock, peeping above the waters,

to

many

mound or
and known

some notorious

as Cross or Gibbet Island,

pirates having once paid there the penalty of their

crimes

and not

Elephanta.

far off

were Butcher's Island and

My satisfaction was

moment

for a

inter-

rupted by our passing close under the stern of a

large English ship, which had " Liverpool

My

under her counter.

**

painted

beloved country, so

many

thousand miles distant, was at once forcibly recalled

to

my

recollection

so easily will a trivial circum-

stance change the current of our thoughts, and cast a

shadow on the brightest hours which we enjoy on

earth.

Anchored around us were some strange-rigged

vessels
built,

huge

from the Red Sea and Persian Gulf, Arabian

with high prows

figure of

some

and each ornamented by a

favourite idol, curiously carved.

These vessels had brought over for

other products of their country

sale, horses,
all

and

which find a

ready market in Bombay.

Here were native

boats, with mat-covered houses

on deck, and laden with

billets

of

wood from

the

FISHERS OF MEN.

Malabar

may

coast, to

supply the funeral pyres, which

be seen of an evening, in Back Bay, blazing

high up into the heavens.

vessels

to

113

From

the sides of these

were hung several pumpkins, large enough

have accommodated, with

or three

There were also nets of onions, cocoa-

Cinderellas.

nuts, &c.,

two

ease,

from which might be inferred the nature

of the sailors' fare while on board.

boats kept us

company

for about

A
two

few fishing-

The

miles.

fishermen had caught some fine 'pomfret and homhalo

markets on the

for the supply of the

The

island.

rude and primitive character of their nets and tackle,

the boats, and wild-looking dress of those on board,
recalled

my

to

remembrance the

passage

Mark's Gospel, in which our Saviour

as walking

on the Sea of

and Andrew

Galilee,

is

in

St.

spoken of

and seeing Simon

his brother casting a net into the sea

and then came the thought, that though eighteen

centuries had rolled

away

since our blessed Saviour

promised to make his disciples "

the

poor benighted

ignorant of those

men

before

fishers

me

of men,"

were utterly

and saving truths which

great

were destined, in the fulness of time, to be spread,

not only " throughout
Galilee," but

globe

all

the regions round about

throughout the whole of the habitable

Truly, "the harvest

labourers are few."

I

is

plenteous, but the

THE GLORIOUS WORKS OP GOD.

114

species of sea-eagle

were at

and some other large birds

time wheeling over onr heads, and

this

down

occasionally diving

into the deep blue waves,

among

as their keen eye detected,

sported there, any fitting prey

the small fry that

then they would

shoot up again, with a " ha-ha," like the note of our

laughing

gull, into

the azure sky, and there remain

poised and motionless.

much

seen so

In whatever

It

was the

first

of the rich beauty of Indian scenery.

itself,

till

the

was almost pained by the quick succession

of brilliant and glowing images.

the

some charm-

direction the eye wandered,

ing and picturesque object presented

retina

time I had

mountains,

distant

herbage

the

bay and
heavens

its

clothed

in

rich tints of

their emerald

of Bomthe
distance the sea the

islands around us

shipping in the

The

city

contributed to form a picture indescri-

all

bably beautiful.

gazed

and

gazed

and

could

scarcely help exclaiming,

" These are thy glorious works, Parent of Good

Almighty Thine this universal fi-anie,

Thus wondrous fair Thyself how wondrous then
!

Unspeakable

To us

invisible,

who

sitt'st

above these heavens.

or dimly seen

In these thy lowest works ; yet these declare

Thy goodness beyond

On

thought, and power divine

drawing near to Elephanta, I was enraptured

115

ELEPHANTA.
by a

view of that

closer

to the water's edge,

and having the

conical hills covered

by a variety of

to

me unknown.

their

many

ter to the landscape.

liken

it

effectually

into

were

and here and there

creepers,

solitary cocoa-nut tree,

to

plants, that

Patches of bare rock near the

wood and luxuriant

by

sides of its lofty

however, by over-shadowing brush-

shore, relieved,

affording,

with palms

island, fringed

fissures,

firm

gave a truly oriental charac-

was

It

in vain that

any English scenery

to

broke the

hold for a

you

these

The boat was

spell.

tried
trees

steered

bay or creek, where some of the

little

in-

habitants of the island had assembled to witness our

waded

debarkation, and had kindly

in

up

to their

arm-pits to pull the boat as high as possible on to

Some

the strand.

amusement just

children added a

at this place,

sea from a piece of rock,

able

way

across

to our

by leaping into the

and diving

the passage

little

for a consider-

we were

cautiously

steering through.

We had now been just

two hours upon the water,

and some of our party began to long for the cool

wells of Elephanta's
shades.

who had taken

merry party to
all

and

their

embowering

gentleman, who was an old resident in

Bombay, and

us to

caves,

its

this island,

beauties,

charge of

many a

promised to introduce

and to

elucidate the

many

ARRIVAL ON THE ISLAND.

IIG

curious matters which

we were about

Mr. C.

to see.

was a member of that peculiar grade of Indian

society,

who have sprung from European

He

native mothers.

fathers

by

had been well educated, was an

accomplished and agreeable man, and had delighted

us during the voyage with scraps of a most romantic

and singular
nondescript

He

life.

one of those

in fact,

personages so often met with in our

who know

Eastern presidencies,

known by

was,

everything, and are

everybody.

After some

little

difficulty,

we

effected a landing

on the eastern side of the island

however, was rendered

which landing,

rather dangerous

and

dis-

agreeable from the circumstance that the spring-tide

partly covered

numbers of huge rocks and stones

wliich had, in the course of time, been severed

the mountain, and which

high-water mark.

had

To keep

from

down below

rolled

the boat clear of these

impediments, and run her as near as possible to the

shore,

had been a work of much anxiety to the

owners; for Indian pleasure-boats of

are

but slightly

grinding on

built,

and

not stand

will

As

a gravelly bottom.

gentlemen had to wade on shore

thus lightened, might float to a

this description

it

much

was,

we

so that the boat,

little

jetty of rocks

which enclosed a fishing-ground, and upon which

the ladies were enabled to land.

STATUE OF THE ELEPHANT.

Once more upon
charge

terra

of two servants

the baskets of eatables

firma we gave into the

who had accompanied

and having

ten or a dozen people eager for the

who

professed

to

talk

little

us

selected, out of

one guide

office,

English, but

who

bad Mahratta before he had

generally lapsed into

we proceeded

finished a sentence,

117

in single

file

up

a narrow footpath, half hid by low prickly shrubs

and

trees,

and affording a

half-hour's exposure

Had we

delicious shade after the

upon the sunny beach.

landed upon the other side of the island,

we should have been

spared the trouble of going

round to see the celebrated stone elephant, which

is

carved out of the solid rock, and which has given

an imperishable name to this

been

split

into parts

The

island.

but whether by accident or

design, appears to be very doubtful.

this

act to

figure has

the Portuguese

since

Some

attribute

they,

on their

invasion of India, are believed to have considered

it

a religious duty to destroy every object connected

with the pagan worship of the natives.
of
hill,

the Elephant

situated

is

on the

The

statue

acclivity of a

about 250 yards from the water, and no doubt

was the

first

the island.
that Ganesa,

object of worship to those landing on

Among
who

is

the

Hindoo

deities

we

find

a portly personage with the

head of an elephant, was at one time so honoured

THE HORSE OF ALEXANDER.

118

and revered, that no

religious

taken without

invoking a blessing from him.

Hence we may

first

conclude, that the stone elephant here

had peculiar honours paid

climbed the

Time

hill

fast

is

work could be under-

to

him before the devotees

to the temple.

completing the destruction of this

interesting relic of a past age.

In 1814, the head

and neck became disunited from the

and

colossal trunk

this portion of the figure lies partly buried in

the sandy

soil.

Some

attribute this second mis-

fortune to a slight shock of an earthquake

to the gradual decay of the black stone out of

the statue

is

carved

and

little eflfort, it is

to detach large scales from the stone.

splitting of

this

and was the work of the Portufmese

Not

far

memorial

easy

But writers

island think

the figure was caused

zeal to annihilate every

which

this last opinion appears

to be reasonable; for, with a

on the antiquities of

others

that the

by gunpowder,
in their reliijious

here.

from the elephant stands the figure of a

horse cut out from the same material, and called the
'*

Horse of Alexander

pose,

of

;" in

memory,

as

some sup-

Alexander the Great, to whom, with no

greater probability, as Mr. Dalr^mple observes, have

also

been attributed the excavations to which this

island owes its celebrity.

Alexander, as I should

imagine, in the midst of his great designs and great

THE TAMARIND TREE.

119

achievements, had matters of more importance to

attend

unimportant

this

Be

island.

stone horse of Elephanta

and

Hindoo

than the carving of

to,

as India,

and perhaps

of his last conquests,

it

as it

this

this part of

him

was one

it,

just possible that

is

in

may, the

attributed to

still

is

deities

this

hero of a thousand battles might have paid a visit

to

this small

one of

island,

rocky

its

and recorded the event upon

after the

hill-sides

fashion of the

Romans.
But

to proceed

we found

the path very steep and

rugged, and moreover encumbered by loose stones

the late rains having,
carried

our guide informed us,

as

away much of the

soil,

We

our footing very insecure.

tamarind

trees,

hung with

and thus rendered

saw some very

a beautiful spreading tree

is

fine

long thin green

their

The

pods, but not sufficiently ripe to be gathered.

tamarind

its

leaves are

wing-shaped or pinnated abruptly, being composed

of sixteen or eighteen pairs of green leaflets grow-

ing on

down.

the

stem, and

Its flowers

covered with a fine

grow

in loose bunches,

from the sides of the branches

petals are of a

veins

any syrup.

is

the

yellow tinge, variegated

the fruit, which

of export,

is

silky

and

calyx

rise

and

with red

rather a valuable

article

generally preserved in India without

The

natives

entertain

some strange

THE FAX- PALM.

120

ideas respecting this tree,

and

dangerous to sleep under

it

Many
tion

you that

tell

very

during the night.

splendid flowers here attracted

some had

it is

my

atten-

trumpet-shaped blossoms, wide

fine

enough to cover a breakfast

That curious

cup.

palm, the chaincerops humilis, or coryplia umhracula

of botanists, better

known

palm, spread out

circle of

its

ing from a short,

as the punkah, or fan-

in various stages of

This plant ap-

foot-stalk.

stiff

peared to flourish well here

it

united leaves, proceed-

we saw dozens

of

some so young

as

for

growth

not to have burst from their cases

feet high,

and

so

very

when

many

There was something

struck.

about

artificial

others,

and dry to the touch, sounding

stift'

like card-board

vegetable

these

wonders,

fringed round with a sort of defensive armour like

spear points, that

actually

them

to

it

growing.

many

was

difficult to believe

The

Hindoos have

useful purposes

they were
converted

the large plants are

used for roofing, and the small are dried in the sun
for hand-punkahs, shades,

them very young, and

they remain

till

painted upon.
fully

executed

them

place

quite dry,

The Chinese gather

tkc.

and

in a press,

where

sufficiently flat to

be

Birds and figures are often beauti-

upon them

after

which they are

highly varnished, shaped into fans or screens, and

attached to ornamented handles.

The

inferior leaves

THE ISLAND VILLAGE.

have the natural stalk

a handle, and can be

for

an anna, or

purchased

for

Bombay.

In situations favourable to

free expansion, this

and adds much

121

so,

the bazaars

in

its

at

growth and

palm

attains a considerable size,

the

beauty of Indian forest-

to

scenery,

casting a grateful

wayfarer

when

shadow over the weary

the sun has risen upon the earth.

After a quarter of an hour's journey up the steep

path-way

that

wound between two

abruptly on both

and by other

falls,

such a kind, however,

was

of us, which journey

sides

by many

diversified

rising

hills,

as rather

to

disasters, of

the

increase

merriment of our party, we suddenly came within

view of a village composed of a rambling collection
of

mud

huts, not unlike those seen in the north of

as neat

Ireland, and, to all appearances,

fortable.

Some wretched-looking women came

to take a peep at us, attended

jackal-bred dogs,

who

set

by

As

dashing through the jungle towards

gun and took a steady aim

no sooner did he suspect

off full

tail,

thirty or forty

at the

my

down

the

hill,

came

these dogs

us, I raised

most daring

intention,

followed by the pack, and

gallop

out

up a howl loud enough

to be heard all over the island.

turned

and com-

my
but

than he

away they

and were soon

set

lost to

observation amidst the tangled foliage below us.

The inhabitants

of this lone village, the only one.

A CAVERN.

122

I believe, on the island, appeared to be a race quite

different

many

from those of Bombay

and

we saw

as

fishing nets spread out to dry, I concluded

that they derived their principal support from the

sea that surrounds them.

Having walked about a quarter of a mile

we

halted under the

shadow of an overhanging rock,

On

in which, was excavated a large chamber.

of the

side

figures

further,

entrance

to

each

chamber, were rude

this

which had once represented men, but which

were now defaced and almost destroyed by long exposure to the atmosphere

by the

roots

besides being overgrown

and branches of

the rock above them.

trees that shot out

from

The doorway formed an im-

perfect triangle (a figure seen in

Egyptian architec-

ture) but without the projecting slab at the top.

peeped

in,

but was repelled, by

its

very uninviting

appearance, from exploring this chamber, the floor

and

mud

sides of

which were coated with a slimy sort of

that had filtered through the hill

besides this,

some one spoke of snakes and centipedes

up

their lodging there;

and that decided

There seemed to be a rude

but

all

which had the

birds,

me

at once.

altar erected in the centre

was gloomy, and of course very

seen from the outside.

as taking

indistinctly

I threw in a few stones,

effect of startling

two or three strange

which flew out and disappeared quickly in the

RESTING AT NOON.
woods, as

123

not accustomed to the glare of broad

if

day.

We

rested here

some time, the view from

this

elevated position being very imposing and extensive.

Dark shadows were

cast

upon the sea from the

adjoining land; and the objects on the Mahratta

which before had been but indistinctly seen,

coast,

were now brought out into

by the sunshine,

fine relief

which quite changed the character of

though without in the

scape,
its

beauty.

land-

the

least detracting

from

There was a sweet tranquillity about the

Everything that had

place at this hour.

sought the shade of the woods

butterfly, that " child of the

life

had

and even the gaudy

had folded

sun,"

his

burnished and many- tinted wings, and had hid himself,

for

flowers

protection,

in the

the very air was

of the drooping

cups

still,

and laden with grate-

ful odours.

As

it

was noon, the heat was

our party were but

of the

rock,

little

intense,

and some of

inclined to leave the shade

which, with

its

overhanging

formed a gorgeous canopy above

us.

foliage,

brief walk,

however, brought us into a fresh path, which

round the mountain, and led us to

Here

its

opposite side.

the scenery bore a different character

gentlemen of the party had to walk

wound

first,

and the

in order to

beat down, with sticks, the long arrow-grass and

A TALE OF A

124

prickly tliorns, before

it

TIGER.

was possible

to attempt to descend the

for the ladies

However, with some

hill.

and

slight difficulties, such as the tearing of veils,

catching of flounces,

we made our way through

obstacles that concealed the

and found

pathway and the guide,

ourselves suddenly standing before the

pagoda, or Temple of Elephanta

great cavern

once boasted of more pilgrims to

place which

many

these

its

shrines, than ever visited the shrine of the holy

prophet at Mecca.

We
no

were

all

glad that our fatigues were over, and

one, perhaps,

more so than myself

yet become inured to the climate.

were,

we

all felt afraid

for I

had not

Heated

as

we

of exposing ourselves too soon

to the cool temperature of the inviting cavern that

yawned

before us

so while

we

sat resting ourselves,

one of our party beguiled the time by relating an

anecdote having reference to the island of Salsette,
of which, from the elevated spot which

we had an

excellent view.

strict truth to

my

readers

Some

recommend

and we may

we

occupied,

This anecdote, as
it,

I shall

call it

now

it

has

present to

a Tale of a Tiger.

years ago (for I cannot be certain as to the

exact time), a party of officers from the barracks

were strolling along shore, near Sion Fort, Bombay,

when one

of them,

who was on

the look-out for stray

game, perceived something, which had evidently

left

A CHILD.

SEIZES
Salsette,

125

swimming towards Bombay;

and, to

all

appearance, likely to land on the spot on which they

As

stood.

the natives never bathe in this bay, on

account of the sharks which infest

that

felt satisfied

altered its course,

pected

it

the whole party

it,

was not a man.

On

a sudden,

it

and landed higher up than was ex-

when, greatly to the astonishment of the

officers,

they saw that

than a

fine,

it

full-grown

was neither more nor

The

tiger.

beast,

less

having

given himself two or three shakes, like a Newfoundland dog; trotted quietly up the beach, towards some
small cottages, and seized, near the door of one of
there playing, and

whom

he had no doubt marked as he was swimming.

The

them, a

little

child

who was

shrieks of the terrified child brought out from the

cottages a few persons, who, however, on learning the

circumstances

of the

case,

disappeared

again

as

quickly as they had come.

The

officers,

two or three of

whom

had

fire-arms,

boldly hastened towards the scene of danger

before they

but

had got within shot of him, the monarch

of the jungle quitted his hold of the child, walked

back quietly to the

sea,

and had swum about twenty

yards back again, when a ball from a

to his progress.

He

reared

violently once or twice,

the discoloured waves.

up

rifle

put a stop

in the water, plunged

and then disappeared beneath

A canoe

was soon procured j

THE TIGER SHOT

12G
and

after

on shore

some trouble the noble animal was dragged

in triumph,

amid the cheers of numbers who

bad been attracted to the

The skin was taken

who had

A2fD PAID FOR.

spot.

to

Bombay, and the

shot the tiger received a good

East India Company.

The

officer

sum from

the

sura they had offered for

every lion and tiger shot in the country, was, I

believe,

tiger

twenty pounds for a

am

but I

lion,

and

fifteen for

not quite certain as to the amount.

This was the last tiger killed or seen near Bombay,

and was supposed

the main land

have

swum

over to Salsette from

as that island, after this invasion,

party, in the

hope of gaining a similar reward, but

without success.

This

little

story was related to

a brother of the gallant officer of the

child,

was

hunted up, by many an adventurous

pretty well

by

to

me
The

rifle.

most fortunately, was more frightened than

hurt.

During the time occupied by the

relation of this

thoroughly Indian anecdote, and by the conversation

to which

it

gave

and, accordingly,

rise,

our party had become cool

we prepared

to enter the Cave.

Numberless pilgrimages have been made, by the

lovers of antiquities, to this subterranean temple,

termed by Mr. Maurice " the wonder of Asia," the

excavation of which has been attributed to Semiramis, as well as to the great Alexander.

Three

THE CAVE.

127

spacious entrances are afforded

between four rows

of massive columns in the

half-way up

brow of the

about

hill,

For a

steep ascent from the shore.

its

few seconds after entering the

could dis-

cave, I

tinguish nothing, the change was so sudden, from

the broad light outside to the darkness within

length

at

its

extent and extraordinary

but

sculptures

my astonished gaze.
my readers a minute

gradually revealed themselves to

I

am

anxious to present to

and correct description of what I saw

had each

figure

plained to

me

and I

here,

and compartment particularly ex-

at the time

by a gentleman well versed

Hindostan

in the mythological history of

memory cannot be depended upon, and

as

yet as

my

notes

are imperfect with regard to the dimensions of the

figures,

and

other matters of

importance,

am

indebted in this matter to Maurice, Niebuhr, and

some other celebrated writers on

India,

for

the

following account of the interior.

The length of
entrance,
its

which

is

this temple,

measuring from the

on the north

side, is

breadth 123 feet

130

feet,

and

the floor not being level, the

height varies from 15 to 17^

feet.

The roof was

supported by twenty-six pillars and eight pilasters,

disposed in four rows

broken.
tal,

and

but several of the pillars are

Each column stands upon a square pedesis fluted

but, instead of being cylindrical.

DIMENSIONS OF THE CAVE.

128
is

Above

gradually enlarged towards the middle.

the

tops of the columns a kind of ridge has been cut

to resemble a

beam about twelve

Along the

this is richly carved.

are cut between forty and

fifty

inches square, and

sides of the temple
colossal figures, in

height from twelve to fifteen feet

none

being entirely detached from the wall.

them

of

KSome of

these figures have on their heads a kind of helmet

others wear crowns, with rich devices

and

others,

any other covering than curled

again, are without

and flowing

Some

hair.

of

them have

four,

and

others six hands, holding sceptres, shields, symbols

of justice, ensigns of religion, weapons of war, and

On

trophies of peace.
entrance,

is

the south side, facing the

an enormous

bust

with three

faces,

representing the triple deity, Brahma, Vishneu, and

Siva.

Brahma, the

tion.

This face measures

creator, occupies the centre posifive feet

in length

the

width from the ear to the middle of the nose

three

feet

figure

is

four inches

nearly twenty

the preserver, Vishneu

on the

the

feet.
;

and

width

On

the

is

Siva, the destroyer, is

having in his hand a Cobra di Capello,

left,

left

of this bust,

figures, is one, a

given the

whole

the right hand

or hooded snake, and on his cap a

To

of the

is

name

human

skull.

amid a group of uncouth

female form, to which Niebuhr has

of

Amazon, from the

fact

of

its

129

COLOSSAL FIGUEES.
being without
four arms.
of a bull

contained

the

The
the

right

left

At

something which

now

Capello,

di

and

mutilated

right

and that of the

a shield."

a passage, about eighteen feet

is

long, terminating in an

through a sort of

light

is

The hand of the hinder

arm holds

the east end

upon the head

fore-arm hangs down, and once

arm grasps a Cobra

left

This figure has

right fore-arm rests

undistinguishable.

hinder

breast.

open space that admits the

shaft- hole iu the rock,

and

containing a spring of the finest water to be found

As Bombay

in this part of India.

proverbial for the badness of

the

governor

is

delicious spring

its

occasionally

has long been

water, the table of

supplied

place

is

it

this

and many who are about to

from the country lay in a few dozens of

voyage, as

from

The approach

keeps well.

guarded by four

beautifully executed,

it

sail

for the
to

this

figures, fourteen feet high,

and more perfect than any to

be found in this temple.

At

the west end, and almost opposite the passage

that leads to the well,

twenty
altar,

room or

recess about

feet square, having, in the centre of

upon which

" offensive to

it,

an

are placed symbols of a worship,

European notions of

entrance to this recess

figures,

is

is

also

delicacy."

The

guarded by eight naked

each 130 feet high, sculptured in a manner

THE CHAMBER OF ABOMINATIONS.

130

which shows that the people by

whom

executed must have

made

the statuary's

The whole of

art.

the excavation

considerable progress in

portion of

this

and

in a very ruinous condition,

is

the roof appears to be fast sinking in

ening

they were

speedy destruction to

The

detestable accompaniments.

this

thus threat-

and

altar

floor is

its

heaped up

with rubbish, that has crumbled from the side walls,

and has doubtless considerably diminished the height

The same may be

of the apartment.

other rooms.
is

called the

This, as

my

said of the

friend privately told me,

He

chamber of abominations.

also

observed that, even in his memory, the whole of the

temple was much changed for the worse.

are permitted to lodge between

out of the twelve

The

rains

them four months

though a day or two's labour

and a few rupees expended

in

making a proper drain

would secure these interesting monuments from destruction.

He

thought that when

give way, the mountain

heard

it

visited

stated in
this

above

tlie

pillars

must bury

should
all.

Bombay, that when the Portuguese

island,

they were

so horrified

by the

character of this heathen temple, that they ordered

a piece of heavily-loaded cannon to be planted opposite the entrance, with the hope of destroying the
principal pillars that support the roof,

and burying

the cave in the ruins of the mountain above

it.

THE HINDOO

No

?S1

TRINITY.

such violence, however,

now

is

Like

needed.

the works of man, this wonderful excavation

all

fast

is

crumbling away beneath the great Spoiler's hand.

and powdery to the touch,

The rock

itself

and

perishing from age and long exposure to

is fast

the atmosphere

soft

is

and the cave has long been deserted

by the infatuated worshippers of the strange gods

which

contains

it

while the enormous sums said

by the

to be exacted

with

priests

and others connected

have, doubtless, been

it,

diverted into other

channels.

The

triple

figure

has been

to

source of strange conjecture as to

some

writers

its real

meaning,

and was long supposed to represent the Hindoo

triad

though many believe

of Siva, to

whom

structures in the

temple

f?lled

is

it

to be simply a figure

the temple, and almost

West of

all

similar

This

India, are dedicated.

with the images and transformations

of Siva, the god of destruction

and as we are now

in the midst of the heathen gods

and goddesses, a

few words about the celebrated Hindoo trinity

not prove uninteresting to

my

readers.

The

may

sacred

books of India distinctly recognize the existence oi

one supreme and invisible Author and Ruler of the
universe

and Sir William Jones has furnished us

with a translation of the Vedas, from some of whose

texts

we

are enabled to glean their doctrines respect-

OLD HINDOO IDEAS OF GOD.

132

ing the nature and attributes of the Deity.

from

extracted

following,

the

Gayatri,

The
holy

or

shows us what sublime ideas they enter-

passages,

tained respecting the Great Invisible One.

" Let us adore the supremacy of that divine sun,

the Godhead,

who

illuminates

all,

who

creates

all,

whom all proceed, to whom all must return,

whom we invoke to direct our understandings aright

from

in our progress towards his holy seat.

"

What

the sun and light are to this visible world,

that are the

tual

and

Supreme Good and Truth

invisible universe

and

to the intellec-

as our corporeal eyes

have a distinct perception of objects enlightened by

the sun, thus our souls acquire certain knowledge by

meditating on the light of truth which emanates from

the Being of beings; that

is

the light by which alone,

our minds can be directed in the path to beatitude.

" Without hand or foot he runs rapidly and grasps
firmly
all

without eyes he sees

he knows whatever can be

none who knows him.

Supreme Pervading
In the Hindoo
head,
is

without ears he hears

is

Him

known

the wise

but there

call

is

the Great

Spirit."

trinity,

Brahma, who stands

at the

looked upon as the author of the world.

He

represented as ha\dng produced everything out of

himself,
essence.

and

We

all

that was

or

is,

partakes

of his

cannot but smile at the history of his

ORIGIN OF BRAHMA.

The Supreme mind

origin.

an

eg'g in the

waters which

is

it

said to have deposited

created,

Brahma, who was snug inside of

its shell

should break

and which egg

many miUions

remained there inactive for

till

133

it,

of years,

willed that

and thus was he born

in the

form of a divine male, to be for ever famed, throughout

all

worlds,

as

the

Brahma, considering
tion to the

him

great forefather of spirits.

his high position,

and

his rela-

Supreme mind, has but few honours paid

only two or three temples having been erected

to his especial service in India.

Vishneu, on the contrary, has

is

many followers. He

represented in the sacred books as the Deliverer,

ever ready to interpose between

He

that threatens his race.

is

man and any

danger

thought to descend

frequently to this earth, in various animated forms

for marvellous

and anmsing are the transformations

ascribed to him.
fish,

He

first

made

his appearance as a

of such small dimensions as to be easily placed

in a chattee of water
until a cistern, a pool,

and a

lake,

He was

hold this growing god.

into the sea,

but he gradually expanded,

were too small to

consequently thrown

where he destroyed a giant, and ap-

peared blazing like molten gold, a million of leagues

in extent.
his tusks,

Changing here

to a boar, he raised, with

from the bottom of the

sea,

our earth, and

then sunk out of sight.

Wonderful are the works

ascribed to Vishneu

we have quoted

but

sufficient

134

AXD DOORGA.

SIVA

to satisfy the reader of their absurdity, and

now
to

turn to the third

whom

member

Hindoo

of the

the tem2)le of Elephanta

we

will

triad,

supposed to be

is

dedicated.

Siva

represented as of a bright silver colour,

is

sometimes having
one with three
is

five faces,

The

eyes.

and at other times only

history of Siva's exploits

strange and unnatural, from the circumstance of

Doorga being mixed up with

a female partner

called

his adventures.

This Doorga,

cipal of the female deities

reputed to be a warlike and

who

is

now

the prin-

worshipped in India,
terrific creature.

is

She was

originally called Parvati, imtil she slew the giant of

that name,

overcome

who had made

this

army

To

enemy, Doorga caused 9,000,000 of

warriors to issue from

Parvati's

slaves of the gods.

of

her body, to fight against

100,000,000

20,000,000 of elephants.

of

chariots,

and

After this fierce contest,

Doorga took the name of her huge enemy, which

was graciously bestowed on her by the emancipated
gods.

Parvati

and Kalee have more worshippers than

any other god or goddess

in India,

flow with the blood of animal

thieves,

and

all

and

their temples

sacrifices.

Decoits,

the worst characters that spread terror

throughout Hindostan, pay peculiar honours to this

horrid

woman and

her friend Kalee.

They recognize

the latter as the only goddess endued with power

E.

L.

L.

ON HINDOO MYTHOLOGY.
them from

sufficient to protect

discovery, during their

Consequently, Kalee

pillaging excursions.

135

is

a most

popular divinity, invoked by dark incantations for

and aid on every unlawful occasion or ad-

blessing

Hindoo robbers engage.

venture in which

Elliot,

speaking of the extraordinary superstitions of India,

says, " If

the

they did not create they at least furnished

materials

the

of

softened and beautified

Grecian mythology,

by that

though

poetical imagination,

which formed, in ancient times, the golden age of

The

poetry upon earth."

this subject are doubtless

Maclean on

lines of Mrs.

familiar to

many

of

my

In allusion to EUora, and to the gloomy

readers.

superstitions of the East, as well as to the aptitude of

the Greeks,
"

To

turn, beneath their softer sky.

All that was faith to poetry;

she thus writes

" Hence had the Grecian fables birth,

And wandered
Till

beautiful o'er earth;

every wood, and stream, and cave,

some bright vision gave

For all of terrible and strange,
That from these gloomy caverns sprung.
Shelter to

From Greece

received a graceful change.

That spoke another sky and tongue,

A finer eye,
Than

a gentler hand.

in their native

Hindoo

land."

HOPE FOR

136

INDIA.

Thousands of devotees are said to have annually

from

visited this temple of Elephanta,

the country

and even

after the

and the scattering of

shrines,

all

parts of

breaking up of

its priests,

its

the cave was

not entirely deserted by the deluded worshippers,

who

still

left to

fancied

headless gods had power enough

hear their prayers, and to accept their vain

Now,

oblations.
''

its

its

glory has departed from

the sound of the church-jroino:

bell, " stealingf

the slumbering water from Bombay,

among

to echo

polluted

it,

and

across

alone heard

is

the mountains, and caves, and once-

temples,

that

formerly

fanatical bowlings of its pilgrims,

resounded to the

and the dinning

Death and

tom-toin that attends their ceremonies.

time have here hushed

all

The people

into silence.

whose boast these wondrous structures must once

have been, have long passed away, and their memory
has long been forgotten in the land.

Let us hope,

that a brighter and happier day has

dawned upon

India,

and that

long neglected,
are

poor and benighted people, so

its

may

now working

yet live to bless the

together for their good, and to

worshi}) the true and only God,

temples

made with

We

now

will

means that

who

dwelleth not in

hands.

return to our party,

whom we

left

unpacking baskets, and spreading out on a China

mat the various

matters

we had brought from

THE GOVERNOR OF THE ISLAND.

Some

Bombay.
coffee

137

of the ladies insisted on

having

and a Kitmutgar was accordingly sent to

to

collect sticks,

make

fire

to boil

it

which

at

commission I remember he grumbled excessively, as

it

did not

come within

his regular code of duties as

a head table-servant to perform such menial offices

however, by a

little

by the promise of

persuasion, and

some luxury, the name of which was unknown

to me,

he was induced to go, and soon returned with an

who made us

armful of sticks, and an old soldier,

a profound salaam, and politely informed us in Hindoostannee, that he was appointed governor of the
island,

his

and had charge of the

and that

caves,

was

duty to see that no one wantonly injured any of

the figures.

He was

saw before him

and

invited to partake of
as soon as

we had

steps towards the Trimurti,

amounted

bend our

and hear the wonderful

things he had to say concerning

said (and they

what he

sufficiently

refreshed ourselves, he requested us all to

it

These things

it.

to nothing

more than what

have stated) he made us another very respectable

salaam, and several to the individuals who, after the

fashion of the gipsy, crossed his open

palm with a

shining rupee or two, and vanished as unexpectedly

as he

had appeared

leaving those

who understood

his language better than I did, exceedingly

by

his parting address.

amused

The heat had not destroyed

AN INDIAN POEM.

138

our appetite, nor did the monster figures in the least

scare us during the interesting service of dinner

Humorous

tea combined.

and

anecdotes, related by the

Anglo-Indian, gave a zest to the entertainment, and

now

songs and music

Some

enlivened

our

little

party.

of these songs having reference to the country,

I shall endeavour to present a free version of one of

them, with
readers

all

its

my

imperfections, to

indulgent

Now

panting nature seeks repose,

The 8UU

And
The

sinks low, the night-flower blows

scents the sultry air

camel, near yon cotton-tree.

Folds under him the wearied knee,

No

burthen

now

to bear.

The vampire sails round temples old

Where legendary tale is told
Of Doorga's

fierce allies

The bulbul sings liis farewell song

From flowery shrub, whence, all day
His grateful notes

O'er

woods and

The

fire-fly

arise.

valleys with delight

bears his wandering light

Now is his happy hoiu".

When flowers are left alone

for

him

upon the wing

Within each dewy bower.

To

sip their sweets

long,

EVENING IN INDIA.
The

bufifalo

And makes

bellows on the plain,

the forests shake again

As he walks
For

He

all

139

foi'th

and feeds

day long, within some pool,

laid his panting sides to cool

Amidst the jointed

reeds.

Now prowling jackals

The

tiger

and the

steal

abroad ;

lion-lord

Lui'k in the jungle near

The peacock, brightened by yon ray

That decks the heaven

at closing day.

Hides his plumed head in

fear.

On nullahs' cypress-shaded brink,

The feverish herd come down to drink.

And

bathe in waters pure

The hunting chetah creeps unseen,

And marks

a victim in the stream

His evening meal

But hark
So

softly
It is

is

sure.

what sound is that we hear

falling on the ear ]
!

an evening

bell.

That swings in yonder mosque's old tower

Rising above the high palm-bower,

For day now bids

farewell.

The Hindoo to his prayers must

The lamps are lit in rows below.

And round
See,

now they

about his god

kneel and

make

salaam.

Beside their Brahmin, holy man,

And

go,

kiss the place

he trod.

4
140

THE RETURN TO BOMBAY.

and mutter
Each prayer as if it were the
That they should ever sjiy

All prostrate

fall

fast
last
;

"While incense burns in niches round,

And
'

flowers are strewed

upon the ground

Tis thus the Hindoos pray.

Man's labouring hours, by shadows known,

Upon the wings of time have fl^own

He

hies

him

to his cot;

Peace and tranquillity are there

Regardless of the morrow's care,

Contentment

The

is

his lot

caves of Elephanta are, as

often visited

Bombay

supposed,

the island being only seven miles from

and

Castle,

The English

may be

from the Mahratta shore.

five

traveller is apt, it is said, to indulge,

even here, his strange propensity to possess himself

of

relics,

and

occasionally

is

nose or a finger, to carry

proof

stantial

"wonder

of

his

known

to break off a

home with him

having

really

as a sub-

visited

this

of Asia," and tiffined under the sacred

rock of Gorapori.

The shadows
around

us,

of evening had stolen imperceptibly

before

we broke up our party

and

the rich notes of the cornopean breathed a sweet farewell to cave

and

hill.

As we wended our way along

the mountain-path towards the shore, I

thing like regret from the thought, that, in

felt

some-

all

proba-

FAREWELL.
bility, I

141

should never again yisit this beautiful island

of the sea

and

as

we rowed slowly over the

star-lit

waters towards Bombay, there was something, at

this witching hour, so

around

us, that

calm and tranquil in the scene

conversation soon ceased altogether,

and each one among us seemed occupied by

own

We

musings.

his

found our friends in the Fort

anxiously awaiting our return; and after an hour or

two spent very agreeably, I bade adieu

had contributed much

to

my

to

many who

happiness, both on this

memorable day, and on former

me

occasions.

sor-

had a painful

rowful feeling

oppressed

conviction that

some of us would never meet again

in this world

for I

a foreboding which has been

realized;

but
" There are tones that will haunt us, though lonely

Our path

be, o'er

There are looks that

When memory

moimtain and sea

will part fi-om us only

ceases to be.

AFTER THE RAINS.

142

CHAPTER

The

V.

away

rainy season has passed

and the

fearful

storms that lately swept over the dark waters of the

Indian

Ocean,

terrific force

and hurled

upon the

coast,

its

billows

with such

have gradually subsided

into a peaceful calm.

" Mercy's voice has hushed the blast,"

and the low murmuring of the morning or evening

breeze

is

alone heard amidst those forests, which, but

a short time ago, bowed their sturdy limbs and pathless

jungles to the raging of the monsoon.

jackal, that fled before this dreaded

invader of his

and " seeks

of

his food

from God."

vegetation, which so suddenly clothed

the surface of earth, painting

myriads

enemy, the only

profound solitude, returns again to

his ancient haunts,

The luxuriant

The scared

glorious

the

landscajje with

blossoms of every hue, and

which sprang suddenly into

life

during that remarkable

BRILLIANT FLOWERS.
period,

now

is

fast

drooping and dying around us

and the large crimson flowers of the

{Bomhax

ceiba)

143

lofty cotton-tree

have vanished, and given place to the

bursting capsule with

its

wild annuals have gone through the

man
But

many

stages of

wait the returning

them once more spring

rains, to bid

to

now

short existence, and

their

Innumerable

silky treasure.

welcome

forth,

as the voice of the turtle heard in the land.

in this fair country,

where summer and winter

can scarcely be distinguished from each other, and

many

where the leaves of

new

give place to
visitors

trees are

only shed to

ones, the fading of the ephemeral

which perfect an Eastern landscape are not

regretted, as are,

among

ourselves, the productions

an English summer, when autumn shows her

of

" sere and yellow leaf"

Linnaeus has

world,"

vegetable

above us

justly

The gorgeous palms, which

entitled

rear

still

"the princes of the

their

crowned

pillars

and the peepul, the palmyra, and

the

banyan, cast their grateful shadows over the scorching glades.

In moist

Nor have
districts

bean (butea superha)

scarlet

flowers forsaken us.

lights

blossoms the dark

up with

forests,

the

like

magnificent

butterflies

glowing

its

and the odoriferous

The

pandanus scents the morning breeze.

ing orchids,

Decanna-

in the interior, the

sporting in

dendrobiums, give

glitter-

air,

charm

and
to

144

PARASITICAL PLANTS.

Eastern scenery, and delight the eye by the richness and

The decaying

beauty of their colours.

monarch of the jungle, rearing

amidst the profusion of humbler shrubs,

an object

fit

form

his blighted
is

not here

only for melancholy contemplation. The

past storms have wafted the seeds of various graceful

parasitical plants,

and every rent or cranny in

its

aged trunk displays some curiously-tinted blossems,

which scent from their floating tendrils the moist

atmosphere of the cool woods.
were,
seize

upon the wreck of

and again clothe them

delicious apparel.
its

vivid

branches of the

expands
silent

its

it

nature, these epiphytes

upon the withering branches so favourable

their growth,

hangs

Flourishing, as

in

to

new and

lovely species of trichozanthes

scarlet
forest,

fruit

from

the

topmost

but this climbing plant only

white and fringed flower during the

hours of night.

The anxious

agriculturist,

who

cast a wistful eye

over the arid plains, which, in case the expected

many

should be abundant, were to supply

raiiis

thousands

with food, and who, with a desponding sigh, saw the

skins, half filled with water
voirs,

emptied into the

little

from the

failing reser-

channels that conducted

the precious fluid to the planted fields of promise,

again

has had his wants supplied

and again the

valleys stand so thick with corn, that they laugh

and

SOWING AND REAPING.

The

sing.

grounds, which

rice

March and

145

were prepared in

May,

April, ready to receive the seed in

have long been reaped, and the exhausted corn-jars

have again been replenished, to satisfy the wants of
those multitudes who, while they live

God

refuse to give

upon His

the glory.

It is necessary to bear in

mind, that in a climate

like that of India, a constant succession of the

beautiful crops

might be produced,

Two

of water could be insured.

The

of October

first

week

sown with

is

riibbee,

by

assisted

or dry crop,

artificial

sown about

November, and reaped

in

is

June, and reaped about the end

means, and called the

the

wet crop, which

and the second,

first is

the periodical rains, and

result of

May and

the rice in

supply

seed -crops are,

however, generally secured in the year.

called the Miwreef, or

most

for the pur-

if,

poses of irrigation, a sufficient and regular

the natural

gifts,

in

March

and April.
Rice, cotton, indigo,

the

and maize, are sown before

monsoons commence

millet,

and wheat,

and other crops of smaller

labourer
stranger

at
is

all

seeds,

of the year.

seasons

barley, oats,

reward the
Thus, the

often astonished to see sowing and reap-

ing going on at the same time, in fields not far apart

from one another

famine, in

its

yet,

with

all

this

seeming plenty,

most dreadful shapes, has frequently

L

EARTHEN CORN-JARS.

14:6

through this

stalked

The

upon which a

rice,

lation

double-harvest-bearing

is fed,

land.

third part of the vast popu-

has perished for want of water, or has

been devoured by the locusts

and the

and the

cattle

labourer have expired together.

Among

the most desolating famines in India, of

which history has furnished us with accounts, that

which occurred in Bengal, in
harassing to contemplate

beings are

said to

1770,

is

the

several millions of

have perished in

it.

most

human

Another

famine, that thinned the north-west provinces, proved

almost as

fatal

and had not the hand of charity in

a great measure averted the calamity, by relieving

daily 80,000 individuals at Agra,

impossible to have calculated the

Such disastrous occurrences

than they were formerly

been

having

taught

against the future,

the

it

would have been

amount of

however, rarer

are,

husbandman

the Indian
necessity

by storing up

deaths.

of

providing

his corn in

the

seasons of plenty.*

Coin

in large

in Guzerat is often stored

earthem

or four of

oui'

jars,

up near the farmer's house,

capable of holding the contents of three

ordinary sacks.

close-fitting lid, fastened

These jars are secured by a

down with

clay or chunam, to pre-

vent the ingress of the desti-uctive white ants.

Those wliich

saw were arranged side by side under a shed, close by

the owner's residence, and puzzled me much, before I could
The Arabian story of All Baha, or ike
find out their use.
I first

THE NORTH-EAST MONSOON".

The

rains are always variable

districts in the interior

and uncertain

fall,

during the

monsoon
in

The consequence

England.

that every road and field

town, from

The reader

my

low,

its

is

fall

is,

flooded,

will perceive that I

of a whole year

on such occasions,

and that the new

swampy situation,

suffers severely.

have not confined

description entirely to the Island of

Agricultural farming
scale here, the land

ducing

Is

carried

on on a very small

cocoa-nut trees, and some

The inhabitants

trifling articles of fruit.

supplied with vegetables, poultry, sheep,

Salsette

Bombay.

being poor, and naturally pro-

excepting

little,

known

twelve days of the south-west

first

being the average

this

some

In Bombay,

rain to the depth of thirty-two inches has been

to

being flooded, while others

by passing showers.

are barely visited

147

are chiefly
&c.,

from

and the teeming plains of Guzerat furnish

them with

corn,

land carriage

is

which

is

conveyed by

sea,

as

all

very expensive and slow, on account

of the wretched roads,

and the miserable mode of

conveyance adopted in India.

The

cool

and agreeable north-east monsoon, that

succeeds that of the south-west, or rainy wind, continues to

and

fair

blow steadily to the end of February.

weather

is

now certain throughout

Dry

this great

Forty Thieves, occurred to me, for each jar might easily have

contained one,

if

not two,

tall

robbers.

DAYBREAK.

48

peninsula, though the north-east

it

monsoon brings with

rain on the eastern side of the

To March

from October to December.

east

winds

by hot

blasts

the north-

and irregular veering winds, attended

and excessive and relaxing days may

be expected until the commencement of

We

June.

coast,

which mouth they gradually

prevail, in

cease altogether,

Coromandel

will

this hot season in

now

May

or

return to our recollections of

Bombay, and of matters therewith

connected.

The scene has changed

the sun, so long obscured

during the rainy mouths, or only peeping out be-

tween the dark masses of

electric clouds,

forth with redoubled power

vise plans to

now

bursts

and man begins to de-

meet the coming hot season, and to

shade his dwelling as much as possible from

scorching

rays.

'Tis

early

morn

day

has

its

just

broken over the high eastern ghauts, and the welcome

streak of light spreads rapidly over the lofty canopy

above

us.

You have taken your

bath,

and

longing desire to go forth into the open

ramble through the compound,

in whatever direction,

feel
air,

a
to

or, in fact, to escape,

from your confined bungalow,

the walls of which have scarcely thrown off the heat

of the past day.

If early abroad,

it is

no uncommon

thing to find everything enveloped in a hot steaming

vapour,

that

strongly recalls

to

the

memory

the

HEAVY DEWS.

atmosphere of a close green-house, when

artificial

the sun

149

is full

upon

it.

Such mornings

muggy, and are always the forerunners of

are called

You

extreme heat.

evaporation, which

are prepared for this unhealthy

is

close of this season,

often very dense towards the

by putting on a

having the fear of rheumatism,

your eyes

before

Bombay

in

sequence

disorders

imprudent

of

flannel jacket

or

country-ague,

from which, in con-

exposure

to

many

the

atmospheric changes that assail the European in

India,

There
at this

more or

all,

is

less,

suffer

an indescribable sweetness in the mornins:

hour

(six o'clock).

It is as if every leaf

flower, nay, the very earth itself,

delicious
offering
for

the past

night's

were exhaling some

it

and the pores of

all

good

which

still

to the Giver of

refreshing

dews,

diamond globules around you.

does rejoice, for

Vegetation

has been revived and nourished

its

leaves are freed

these gentle distillations, that

seen

and

perfume wherewith to refresh you, and

up an early tribute

glitter in

severely.

fall

from dust by

from heaven un-

by man.

Night dews on

this island are very

heavy

have often been surprised upon returning

tween nine and ten of an evening, to find

wet and uncomfortable from

this cause,

and I

home

my

be-

clothes

though the

atmosphere at the time was clear and serene.

THE TREE-LIZARD.

150

With

breaking forth of the sun the mist

the

vanishes, and the loveliest of

the world.

all

hours bursts upon

Soon, however, the leaves of

many

and shrubs begin gradually to droop, so

trees

offer as small a surface as possible to his

rays

of the

was often struck with

as to

withering

this singular

pheno-

menou, which we cannot look upon but as a beautiful

provision for the protection of plants at mid-day.

During these comparatively cool hours, there blossom

numbers of garden and wild

whose beauty

flowers,

before noon has faded and gone.

and a host of minor honey-sucking

Butterflies,
insects, are

now on

that offers

it

flitting

the wing, seeking, while the calyx

yet lives, their morning's repast, and

about

meteors

bright

like

and

fresh

the sun sinks low,

blossoms open to them

Now may

nectaries.

till

having

shade of some

satisfied their wants, they retire to the

thick grove, there to slumber

till,

their

be seen the large

evening

tree-lizard,

remarkable for the curious pouch under his head,

busy and

alert,

springing from branch to branch, and

pouncing upon the poor

by the ascending sun

flies

his

driven into his domain

hour has

now

he must breakfast while opportunity

There

is

ver}'

arrived,

and

offers.

another pretty saurian, which also claims

our attention

amusement of

and which has often afforded

morning from seven

me

o'clock until

THE BUNGALOW-LIZARD.

He

nine.

very swift on his

is

151

little

feet,

and

is

compactly and elegantly formed ; having a fine brown

He

shining skin, beautifully mottled.

former

like the

when

grown

full

about fourteen inches in length

is
;

has no pouch

his favourite haunts appear to be

in old walls, or under the thatch or tiles of your

bungalow

may

here you

arch formed

by the

half

spy him from beneath the

tile,

peeping cautiously out

with two very bright and sharp eyes, watching, like

any stray

his tree neighbour, for

insects that

tempted to creep in under the roof

protection from the sun.

If he

and you are surprised to

feet,

and

from his hiding-

see so small a

conjunction with so long a body.

not too hot for his

for shelter

be

not successful in

is

his sport, he steals out occasionally

place,

may

head in

If the tiles are

he looks about him anxiously

as if he

had been decoyed into some unfavourable

position,

which he wanted to change

noise disturbs

him

cause
roof,

him

but the least

even a bird flying past will

to dart into another opening under the

and in a second or two the

are again detected, for he is

several attempts to secure a

still

little

bright eyes

hungry.

specimen of

made

this lizard,

but was always unsuccessful.

Not

many

so with the tree-lizards

for examination,

of

them I caught

by simply passing a loop or

running knot made of twine, and attached to the

152

LIZARDS HARMLESS.

end of a long bamboo, over

bringing them

down from

their heads,

and thus

the bough on which they

were roosting, often to the amusement of the nwUy

or gardener,

who appeared

to take a lively interest

in the sport, as soon as he found that I did not

capture them for any cruel purpose.

Both

species are very harmless, as indeed are all

the lizard tribe

but when crushed or irritated in

the hand, they would endeavour to liberate themselves ])y trying to bite

They have

me.

Like

over the muscles of the lower jaw.

the

in

reptiles

enemies

East,

they

other

have numerous

The

and

large kites, in their

do not consider them beneath

circuits,

their notice

frogs

all

power

and are thus prevented from multiplying

to a troublesome extent.

mornings'

both

little

their

young ones

are devoured

by

and snakes.

The

zootoca vivipara, or nimble lizard, so

in

summer on our

is

not

unlike

smaller.

common

heaths and sunny banks at home,

the

bungalow-lizard, though

They both bring

forth their

young

much
alive

the eggs being hatched while yet in the body of the

parent

consequently they are ovo-viviparous.

The

thought to be necessary

vivifying heat of the sun

is

for the extrusion of the

young from the

eggs.

kept a female, that had been caught for me, some

weeks

in a small

box covered with a

glass lid,

and

153

SNAKES.

was not a

little

surprised one morning,

to give her the usual allowance of

flies,

I went

to see five

young ones running about and tumbling over

or six

Though but a few hours

their mother.

readily seized the imprisoned insects,

up

when

so

old,

they

and ate them

that the parent stood but a poor

rapidly,

chance amongst them.

common on the south side of

Bombay I only saw two or three

Snakes are not very

the Island

my

during
for

of

them

hedges.

residence there, though I often hunted

in

the old

The study

Euporbia

thorny spurge or

animated

of

me the greatest
me was novel and

always

nature

and India, where

afforded

pleasure

to

strange,

opened a tempting

all

Our

field for its pursuit.

servants,

the haunts of these reptiles,

well

knowing

would occasionally

kill

one in the compound early in the morning, while,

rather torpid after the cold night, they lay coiled

under the shrubs.

killing the
to be

more

The

natives are very expert in

most venomous snakes, and

terrified

than even strangers

up

really

seem

by the sight of some of them

are.

As

the coolies, and

many

of the poor people, go barefooted, they travel over

the waste lands with great caution

and practice has

given them quickness of eye in detecting the snakes

on the ground.

As they

places after dark,

and ramble about in search of mice

creep out of their hiding-

AN OFFICER KILLED BY A SNAKE.

154

and

insects,

lantern,

no one thinks of going out without a

and an attendant with a stout

stick,

walks before, and carefully marks the road,

unfrequented one.

This of course

is

wlio

if

an

only necessary

in country places.

The cobra

di capello

and the bright speckled cobra

uncommon on the
island ; and many

manilla, are not

sides

of

the

north and west

of

the

private

gardens, that are densely crowded with shrubs and

flowering plants, are said to be infested at particular

An

seasons by a small brown snake.

sick leave,

who was

ment bungalows

officer,

on

residing in one of the govern-

from the

at Colabah, about a mile

Fort of Bombay, was walking up and down one

iDoming under the verandah

pers,

in a pair of thin slip-

and accidentally trod upon a small snake that

was winding

itself

out of a hole in his path.

AVithin

a few minutes afterwards he was seized bv the most

violent pain in his foot, which soon changed colour,

and swelled up enormously to the knee.

Sickness

and convulsions, with the usual symptoms of having

been poisoned, rapidly appeared

was immediately resorted

the progress

of the

to,

fatal

and medical aid

but nothing could arrest

virus.

Castor- oil,

other native remedies, were useless here

and

and the

poor gentleman expired in dreadful agonies twentyfour hours after he had been bitten.

The

fangs of

THE SCORPIOX.

155

the snake,

as it is unnecessary to say,

penetrated

the

flimsy

slipper

thus

had

easily

showing the

danger of going out in India with a thin covering

over the

This

feet.

known

small snake,

circumstance of

its

officer

as the carpet

ous
is

very

The carpet snake, or

I believe, one of the most poison-

is,

and subtle

snake, from the

often creeping into rooms, and

hiding under the matting.

cobra manilla,

died from the bite of a

reptiles

difficult to

found in the

island,

and

detect in the long and withered

grasses.

Turning from these formidable and life-destroying

enemies, which, in certain districts, excite such a
feeling of

horror from their numbers, and which

have become objects of veneration and worship to

many

of the tribes and castes of India,

we

make a few passing remarks on some

common and
visitor

will

now

other very

troublesome creatures, that alarm the

more from

their loathsome aspect, than

any power which they possess of

inflicting a

from

mortal

wound.

The scorpion
Bombay, but

is

it

peculiar to Africa

one of the dreaded inhabitants of

does not attain that large size so

and the West Indies.

It frequents

the old ruined bungalows, cotton stores,

unoccupied

buildings

and other

and many of the

native

coasting vessels, from the nature of their cargo, are

A CHILD BITTEN BY A

156

by

said to be often infested

saw
hue.

in

Bombay were

They creep

SCORPION.

The scorpions I

it.

of a reddish or dirty yellow

into

go-downs, and

wage a mortal war with the long-legged

already spoken

As they

of.

bring forth at a birth

fifty

and

cellars,

spiders

are very prolific, and

or sixty young ones,

it is

highly necessary to have a proper person occasionally

them from

to purify their haunts, so as to prevent

increasing upon
their

armed

your premises.

tail

nervous subjects,

symptoms

They

inflict

with

wound

which, in irritable and

is

often

attended by unpleasant

and I have heard of one or two instances

in which death ensued

from the poison of the malig-

nant sting of an old scorpion

but

correctlv, the victims in these cases

state of health.

if

remember

were in a bad

During a short sojourn

in Guzerat,

a distressing event of this kind, which occurs to

recollection,

A soldier's

my

took place in one of the military stations.

wife had brought in

some

clothes that

had

been placed out near the barracks in the sun to dry,

and having

carelessly

thrown them upon a bed, she

took up a child that was crying in a cradle, to quiet

and, after hushing

it

with the breast

it

upon the bed where the

In a few minutes the

it

to sleep, laid

clothes were deposited.

child's

screams aroused the

mother, when, upon examination, she discovered that

she had placed her sleeping babe upon a scorpion,

THE CENTIPEDE.
that

had been concealed

157

The army

in the clothes.

surgeon was immediately sent

for,

but the child ex-

pired a short time after his arrival.

The genus
very

scoloj)endra, or

common and
some

indeed, in

centipede,

another

is

Bombay

troublesome insect in

parts of the country, centipedes are

so numerous, that the inhabitants are obliged to put

the feet of their bed-posts in water to prevent these

crawling creatures from lodging themselves in the

mattress, a place in

which they are fond of breeding.

Like the scorpion, they move about in dark and

unfrequented places,
search of food.
this insect

and

issue forth

I had always an instinctive dread of

more

so, I really believe,

and can remember, upon

my

than any other

first arrival

the precaution I took to guard against

putting
shaking,

our

in

or carefully examining

them

dislikes

creature or another.

others

to

Some

We

it.

one kind

Bombay,

never

on a boot, shoe, or glove, without

particular

spider

night in

at

first

have

all

moving

of

faint at the sight of a

at a harmless blue-bottle

I,

myself,

being terrified beyond measure at the appearance of

a centipede,

however small.

These centipedes
children, a

allowed

me

inflict

a painful, and, to young

most dangerous wound.

to

examine his index

A labourer once
finger,

which had

been stung by a centipede while removing some old

158

TODDY-DRAWERS.

timber

and the

flesh of

which had shrivelled up and

appeared like dry parchment stretched over the bone.

He had

ligamentous

second joints.
less to

anchylosis

The whole

finger

of the

was of course use-

him, and ought to have been removed

make up

the poor fellow could never

and

first

his

mind

but

to the

operation.

The

first

centipede which I saw was in rather a

strange place.
plate that

and dead.

It

fell

was handed

As

the

from the bottom of a dinnerto

me at

Hindoo

table,

but was crushed

servants imJl place every-

thing on the floor in the cooking-house, though they

have tables provided,

it

was easy to account

unwelcome presence of

horrid

this

for the

insect.

The

centipede grows to five or six inches in length, and,

from the number of

its legs, is

enabled to

move very

quickly.

The hymenopterous
and

bees, are very

bouring
trees

islands.

insects,

such as hornets, wasps,

numerous on

They form

this

and the neigh-

their cells

and excavations of Elephanta and

bans: in

immense

large size,

Some

and often spread

Salsette,

and

from the roofs of these

clusters

subterranean temples.

in the old

of the hornets are of a

terror

among

the toddy-

drawers in the palm-tope by swarming around the

trees

they have to

tapping.

ascend

during the process of

THE VULTURE.
The

159

and woods in

inferior inhabitants of the field

India appear to shun the heat of the mid-day sun,

as

much

man

as

does.

seldom that you see a

It is

bird flying about at this hour, unless

be the large

it

held sacred by the Hindoos,

kite, or fulvous vulture,

and protected and encouraged by the English as the

natural

scavenger of the town and

cares little about the heat

feathered

wings.
sit

for

his powerful

These birds are very tame, and

your cook while he

and watch anxiously

which that functionary

upon them

for

may

He

he can keep his thinly

body cool by the fanning of

close to

dinner,

country.

is

often

will

preparing your

any stray morsels

be pleased to bestow

appearing, from the regularity of their

hours of attendance, to have a very good idea of

time.

They usually announce

dozen loud and

shrill notes,

by

their arrival

half a

uttered at intervals as

they sweep round your compound, and finally perch

themselves on the roof of an outbuilding, or the

topmost branch of a

tree,

hot, they spread out their

where,

if

the day

very

wings and keep up a gentle

motion with them on the principle of a

Your Portuguese

is

fan.

servants, if not prevented, often

amuse themselves by

setting, near their resting-places,

a rat-trap, baited with a piece of meat, which

pounced upon by these unconscious

find themselves caught

by the

leg

birds,

is

soon

who then

between the teeth

FEW

160

SINGING-BIRDS.

The Portuguese domestics

of tbis cruel instrument.

annoy

in this

way some Hindoo

servant to

whom

they owe a grudge, and upon

whom

they wish to

revenge themselves, by thus destroying

the

birds

which the Hindoos venerate.

Shoot them, they dare

not

gun would draw the

since the report of the

who would

attention of their master or of the police,

immediately have the offenders punished.

In every town throughout the East you meet with

these useful birds

indeed, they have evidently been

created for the benefit of

Were

it

mankind

in that country.

not for their services, the air of that hot

climate would be constantly tainted by the decaying

of animal matter, so injurious to

and

their keen eyes,

human

health

fine sense of smell, enable

and

them

to discover at a great distance the dead animals on

I have counted

whioli they feed.

more than twenty

of these kites at a time upon the body of a kid, at

the distance of several miles from any village.
jackals, however,

The woods,

had

at

first

this

had

The

their share.

season, are

alive with

the

smaller birds, which keep up an incessant din with

their chattering

and squabbling

but excepting the

cooing of the turtle doves, and the occasional familiar

note of the Indian cuckoo, which

is

more sonorous

than our migratory birds, there are but few that re-

mind us

of the sweet songsters of our

own English

BIRDS OF RICH PLUMAGE.

161

Nature, however, in this respect,

groves.

said to distribute her favours

and

may

gifts equally

the richness of plumage which distinguishes

be

since

many

of

these tropical birds compensates, in a great measure,

for the loss of a musical voice.

numbers of them

the apparel of

most remarkable

species

Splendid, indeed,

for

but the various

brilliancy of

plumage

on the Island of

have been nearlv exterminated

Bombay, by the English and

is

their

unerring Joe

Mantons.
I have, in

my

rambles, noticed the small king-

a bird bearing a strong re-

fisher {alcedo Asiatica),

semblance to our

own

solitary species

might say identical with

it.

Another of

indeed, I

this genus,

about the size of a missel-thrush, frequented some

trees

that shaded a tank in our

back,

wings,

splendid

and

azure,

compound.

The

were of the most

tail-feathers,

and the head and body of a rich

brown, shot with purple

throat white,

bill

and

feet

red.

The swallow-tailed emerald

common

fly- catchers

in the rocky districts above

were very

Malabar Point

and some small green woodpeckers, with crimson

and yellow throats, were often heard and seen by

me

tapping the dead trees about Parel.

seen here the Malabar shrike

Lath.)

hoopoe

Upupa

(lanius Malabaricus,

epops)

I have also

sandpiper {tringa

162 WANTON DESTRUCTION OF BEAUTIFUL BIRDS.

hypoUucos)

common

domestlca, Linn.)

Linn.)

tree sparrow, {fringilla niontanaj

It

here.

is

to Great

my enumerating

but space does not admit of

more of them
that

(JringUla

and a variety of birds common

Britain

sparrow

house

greatly to be lamented,

hundreds of these beautiful island-birds are

annually most wantonly destroyed by the crews of

European ships

for the sake of a

though seldom, I

fear, to

few bright feathers

enrich the cabinet of the

true naturalist, or effectively to further the study of

Indian ornithology.
Since
trate the

it

was not the design of

Fauna of Bombay and

beyond simply giving the

may

offer,

this
its

reader,

work

neighbourhood,

just as occasion

an outline or idea of some of

members, we

will

now

to illus-

its

various

turn for the present to other

matters of history more immediately connected with

that lord of the creation,

him

as he appears at

Man, and take a peep

Bombay,

at

home and

at

abroad.

A MISTAKEN ASSERTION.

CHAPTER

*'

163

VI.

Oh, for one draught of cooling northern

That
That

And

it

it

air.

might pour its freshness on me now

might kiss my cheek and cleave my

part

its

currents round

hair,

my fevered brow."

It would be a difficult task to convey to the reader a

correct idea of the prostrating effect of

some of the

dreadfully hot days which, during an Indian sojourn,

you have but too often to endure, with what share of

patience and resignation
It has

you may be blessed

indeed been asserted, that, in a year or two,

you become accustomed, and in

the heated temperature,

fact acclimated to

and care but

burning seasons as they

many

withal.

roll

little

about the

but I must say, that

whom I had the

my short residence

of the old Anglo-Indians,

knowing during

pleasure

of

amongst

them (some of them of

twenty

years'

NECESSITY OF CHANGE OF AIB.

164

standing in the country), one and

all

asserted that,

so far from becoming accustomed to the heat

degrees, they found
trials

that every year brought fresh

though not

to the constitution, until, at last,

suffering

from any organic

disease, they

were com-

pelled to seek a change of air, either at the

of

Good Hope,

or in their native country.

change from a relaxing to a bracing

upon

by

Cape
This

looked

air is

as absolutely necessary every four or five years,

in order to insure to a

European resident

even a moderate share of that greatest of

in India
all

bless-

ings, health.

It is true, there are sanitary stations in the hilly

districts

season,

leave

of India, to which every year, in the hot

numbers

fly

of absence;

travelling deprives

who can

obtain a

or two's

enormous expense

but the

many

month

of

a poor ensign or lieutenant,

perhaps encumbered with a family, of the power of

taking advantage of their fine temperature.
efiect

of a sea-voyage, as a restorative in cases of

general debility,

is

wonderful

so marvellously does

the enfeebled system begin to revive

enters into cooler regions,
lofty

The

as the ship

and draws near

to the

mountains that look down upon Table Bay

particularly if the voyage takes place about

June or

July, about which time the winter quarter there sets

in.

Sick

officers

who

required a sea-voyage were

CHILDREN BORN IN INDIA.

165

formerly allowed to proceed to the Cape to recruit

when they would

their health, perhaps for a year,

been permitted to return home.

not have

Now,

however, the regulations are, I believe, altered

it

as

would take nearly the same time to go to the Cape

by

would be required

ship, that

to reach

England by

the present overland route.

Children born in India are, generally speaking,

Hundreds of them

poor, puny, sickly little things.

languish and die during the

first

or second year of

Some, indeed, through extra-

their brief existence.

ordinary care and good nursing, outlive the period

of infancy

but unless they are sent

home

at the

age of seven or eight years, their lives are rarely

prolonged to old age

to

their

education

it

that

is

not solely with a view

Indian-born children are

separated at an early age from their parents,

sent to England.
to the

This separation

poor parents.

to love, with

is

a dreadful

and
trial

Mothers, in particular, appear

an affection doubly ardent, the children

who, in a foreign clime, are the solace of their often

weary

exile.

Every morning,
sea-shores

before sunrise,

picturesque

and public drives on the island are crowded

by a motley company of
and

the

exercise.

As

visitors in search of health

this is the

day, during the hot season, in

only portion of the

which you can

really

166

EARLY EXERCISE.

walk with any comfort or advantage, every one, who

can, avails himself of

for

it

an hour or two's

stroll

before breakfast, either on foot or on horseback

and an improved

appetite,

and greater willingness

to undertake the ordinary duties of the day, bear

witness to the beneficial effects of the practice.

following

up the custom

much

avoid

regularly,

you

By

certainly

of that dreadful lassitude and sense of

weariness which oppresses those of your less resolute

English neighbours,
delightful hours

morning

bracinjj

Were
it is,

who

pass in their beds those

which they ought to spend in the

air.

more

early out-door exercise

we should

see but few wasting

practised than

upon couches the

best portion of their lives, in listless inactivity

giving

way

and

to that infectious indolence, which, as

the parent of one half of our diseases, cannot be too

resolutely resisted,

by indulgence.

and which grows so imperceptibly

May we

not learn from the page of

history, to trace the misery

and slavery which have

been entailed on India, to the

effeminate habits of
zebe, indeed,

its original

when he invaded

careless, sensual,

possessors
it,

the character of the aborigines

and

Aurung-

at once understood
;

and by constant

watchfulness guarded his followers, during a period

of thirty years, from the fatal though seductive influence of climate

and example

but his successors

"DEATH AND
soon

fell

HIS BROTHER SLEEP."

167

an easy prey to indolence and luxury

splendour and power passed away from them

Mohammedan

these

conquerors sank,

their

and

possible,

if

lower in the scale of humanity than even their Hin-

doo subjects.
It has been thought that the approach of death is

contemplated with

less terror

by the natives of India

than by those of any other country in the world.

may

This

possibly arise from the

a state of perfect tranquillity

ness
life

the

is

within us

that

summit of happi-

that living principle which animated

when God breathed

and

nostrils the breath of life,

must be the

the best state of

great desire of

all

into

man became
all.

to sleep than to be active," say they

" It

Adam's
a living

is

better

" but death

is

for then the daily care of the

body ceases to trouble

to us

belief,

and that to deaden the ever active principle of

the dust of the earth

soul

Hindoo

an endless sleep

us,
;

and the future

shall

be

vacuum where no sound

disturbs."

This theory would seem, in

tically

followed up by the rich,

said to sleep

away a

India, to be prac-

who may

in truth be

third part of their short lives

and who resort to a thousand plans in order to bring

As

about this desirable end.

served, they

chew opium

I have already ob-

and the juice of an

in-

toxicating substance prepared from a species of hemp,

BATHS AND WASH-HOUSES.

1G8

and

called heng or hluang,

them.
class,

esteemed as " the leaf of delusion/'

excites,

producing

rooms are darkened, and the

taken us

softest

it

Their

insanity.

and most luxuri-

and rugs are distributed about the

couches

apartment, as

if

to court sleep.

the poor, however,

labour for their daily food,

all

is

wine, from the pleasurable feelings

though often

With

among

use

another vegetable narcotic of this

Cherris.

we would take

ous

common

in

is

early risers,

swarms of them
tanks, taking

and

to

otherwise.

They

are

of day you

may

see

it is

at peep

collected

their

who fortumUely have

around the large public

shower baths, by dexterously

swinging a vessel of water over their heads, and

re-

freshing themselves in a variety of ways peculiar to

Numbers

the East.

of poor persons also fre*|uent

these tanks at this hour, to

maining,

till

their

wash

their linen

garments are dried and

on again, up to their necks in the water.

fit

re-

to put

Evening

again brings crowds around these water cisterns, to

fill

their chattees for domestic purposes.

In some of these respects the natives

example.

an

good

how great
and many a

myself know, by experience,

effort it is to rise early in

India

battle have I had, to conquer self,

sally forth,

set us a

when aroused

the night, the heat

is

at gunfire.

and get up and

Often during

so great, even in the best-

HINTS FOR PRESERVING HEALTH.

planned bungalows, that to sleep

drowsy god refuses to

dawns

who

the

Nevertheless, the

man

He must

riser.

also, as

he will quickly

avoid the vile habit of drinking bitter beer at

hours

England,

a practice no

yet very

more necessary

fashionable

strictest teniperance,

diet, is

and

that can be procured,

Indian society.

in

with great simplicity of

if,

in seasons of languor

must be taken,

depression, wine

and not the

it is

light,

stuff,

swallowed

all

unnecessary ex-

for

though he may be able to bear

little

inconvenience, such exposure,

posure to the sun

particularly to the

extreme.

is

sour

thought to be harmless.

Let the European also avoid

heat with but

and

be the best

let it

which, imported in immense quantities,

wholesale, because

in India than

Spirituous liquors of course

here necessary.

must be avoided

its

in India is anxious to preserve his health rnust

learn,

The

impossible

is

your couch, and morning

ere your eyelids close.

be an early

all

visit

169

newly arrived,

Even the

and guard against

The poorest native

it

is

injurious in the

natives acknowledge

by every means

its

danger,

in their power.

will not venture out in the day-

time without his chittree over his head, although the

head

is

already well protected by the ample folds of

the white turban, which cannot absorb

sun's rays,

many

and within which,

as

many

of the

an extra security,

persons put large green leaves, which they

THE COLD BATH.

170

gather fresh for the purpose every morning, and

which must be cool and grateful to

their shaven

Those of our countrymen who are

craniums.

liable

to attacks of dysentery, or to complaints of the liver,

are always

recommended

to wear, during the rainy

season, a flannel roller, to protect that important

often-deranged organ
sidered necessary

able to

perhaps not prove unaccept-

readers whose lot

None

be cast in India.
nay, what a day

may

my

some of

con-

are

flannel vests

the year through.

all

These few hints

and

and

may

of us can

bring forth

tell

may one day

what a

year,

life is

made

our

up of strange adventures, and we know not what

may

be on the morrow.

The
getting

first

objects to which your desires point

up of a morning,
The

and a bath.
luxuries,

you

if

are a cup of tea or coffee

latter is certainly the greatest of

by any natural or

can,

means, cool the water

viving shock.

Many

sufficiently to

persons, I

am

bath,

during

my

stay in

disrepute in consequence

which occurred during

of
its

artificial

produce a

aware,

the very cold bath, and prefer the tepid

cold

upon

re-

condemn

in fact, the

Bombay,

fell

into

two or three deaths,

actual use.

I believe,

however, that the deaths of the supposed victims

of these baths were occasioned by their imprudently

SYCEE AND CHOKRA.

171

plunging into very cold water when overheated by

exercise.

By

eight o'clock the sun has risen too high, and

become too

All at home, too, by

remain longer out of doors.

this

are ready for

time,

molly

any European to

oppressive, to allow

breakfast

and

a clever gardener, the table

is

if

your

not only

is

graced by sweet jBowers, but by delicious fruits ; both

of which

must always be

rooms have undergone a change

window

is

Your

acceptable.
;

sitting-

every door and

darkened by the wet cuscus-7nats

(tatties)

which, during your absence, have been suspended in

front of them.

The

floats

monotonously from the ceiling

many

servants begin

stupid,

punkah

large flounced centre

;

and your

already to look drowsy and

and are anxious to get out of

and to

sight,

take their accustomed nap as soon as possible in

some quiet corner of your bungalow.

If

you are fond of keeping dogs, your

sycee,

or

groom, will sometimes condescend to look after them

in

kennel

the chokra, or message-boy, having to

take them out every morning,

for a walk.

sea-shore,

all

You meet dozens

each with their

fastened together,

of these boys on the

string

of dogs

some

running races with them, or teaching them tricks

but others sitting

still, or,

as

is

often the case, sleep-

172

DECREASED CONSUMPTION OF WINES.

ing, with tlie cord tied

round their waist, to prevent

the dogs from running away.

About eleven

o'clock the sea-breeze sets in

though out of doors

like,

passes into them,

blessed current

and about one

a most agreeable repast

take place

seeing that

The

talkative

this

happy hour, gone through

and inquisitive

down

sit

India,

Tiffin, in

tiffin.

formal visiting

till all

as the

lowered con-

is

you can

o'clock,

and enjoy your luncheon or

is

and furnace

temperature of your apartments,

the

siderably

this breeze is hot

is

and,

it

does not

over for the day.

visitors

have, before

and

their various

well-known evolutions, and have mercifully

you

left

once more alone with your family, or with the really

valued friend

any country
your own

and the remainder of the day

before

in

Bombay

This gives them an hour or two's drive

dinner

but eight o'clock

anything to eat before half-past.

round soon
is

at

dine usually at seven

is

the

fashionable parties; and you are fortunate

wine

is

disposal.

The English
o'clock.

treasure often difficult to find in

after the cloth is

drunk

Coffee

hour
if
is

for

you get

handed

drawn, and but

little

a great change in this respect having

taken place during the

last fifteen or

twenty years.

Formerly, drinking was one of the crying evils of

our country-men in the East

and,

together with

DRESS AT DINNER-PARTIES.

gambling and other seductive

our young

officers there

drinks or games,

is

173

was the ruin of

vices,

man who

but now, a

either

and

cut as a public nuisance,

shunned by every one who has the

least pretension

to respectability.

Gentleman who pay

are expected to do so

visits,

in dress cloth coats, or full regimentals, as the case

may

This regulation

be.

may

remarkable to English readers

to wear a woollen coat in

not

appear very

but the fact

an amount of misery rather

is

person at

home

cannot be too

to conceive.

much condemned

apoplexy

even

which

fashion,

where

parties

all

crowded

difficult for

for

pleasure

is

some

and, in

induced by this

is

So ridiculous a custom

thus in a great measure destroyed,

cases,

that

during the hot

India,

season, for three or four hours together in a

room,

is,

stupid

sober-thinking people abhor.

At

ladies are not present, the host (if

reasonable being) will sometimes request his guests

on

to put

their white

generally take

good care

linen jackets,
to bring with

which they

them

in the

drawer of their palanquin in case they should be

wanted.

The
do not

fair sex, in

consequence of their style of dress,

suffer half so

much

as the gentlemen.

With

them, the hoop and the horse-hair jupe are in great

request,

and balloon out the thin muslin, or China

EVERY GUEST TAKES HIS OWN SERVANT.

174

satin, in

a manner which, as I could fancy, must be

very agreeable

but these spreading garments have

their disadvantages

waltzing,

they

up a room

fill

&c., be introduced

(for

and

if

such things are

done in India, in spite of the thermometer

verily

indicating 100 degrees), none but a gentleman with

a very long arm has the slightest chance of reaching

gracefully the narrow zone of his Elizabethan partner.

am

not surprised that the Asiatics laugh at

us for taking

when

for a

girls to

tlie

trouble,

they say, to dance,

as

few rupees we could hire pretty nautch-

do the whole

for us

but Englishmen are

fond of keeping up English customs, and

may

be

forgiven for thus amusing themselves in a foreign

land.

Whenever you dine

out,

you must take your own

servant to wait upon you at table, or you have a

very poor chance of procuring anything like a

factory dinner.

This

is

another nuisance

satis-

for should

your room be small, you have as many servants as

friends in
their

own

it

for the servants attend to

employers.

These people quite delight in

the bustle and stir of a large party

dressed

up

and

all

come

in a nondescript kind of livery, according

to the fancy,

The only

none but

humour, or pride of their masters.

articles

they retain of their own, are the

turban and tumed-up slippers

the latter of which

175

PORTUGUESE COOKS.
some ludicrous scenes of

often give rise to

confusion.

Should two or three guests take a fancy to the same

dish at the

same time, a race to the carver

very unusual

is

not

for the native attendants are always

anxious to appear sharp and active on such occasions

and they not unfrequently hook one another with the

aforesaid turned-up slippers,

the ground.

and come floundering to

They keep up a perpetual jabbering

behind your chairs

Hindoostannee,

chew betel-nut,

and

and some other

garlic,

in

as they

horri])le

com-

they do not add much^ to the comfort of

l)ounds,

your dinner table on a sultry evening.

Yet there

is

something very picturesque and pretty in the dress

of these

splendid

Hindoo

servants.

orange-coloured

one, another a purple,

are

One man
robe,

and so on

will

have on a

another a crimson
;

and

their turbans

snowy white, and often fringed with a drooping

gold-lace border, or have silver thread

woven

into

them.

The lower orders of the Portuguese

employed by English
for

the Hindoos

families, as cooks

are

much

and butlers

are useless as culinary servants,

from their peculiar religious notions about food.

Nothing could persuade a Hindoo to touch ham,

bacon,

or butcher's

meat.

Without exception, I

should say that the Portuguese cooks are the most

troublesome people you have to deal with in India.

THE PESTS OF

176

They
are

INDIA.

are constantly intoxicated

monstrous

and many of them

They think nothing

thieves.

of

going away on some excursion of pleasure for three

or four days, and leaving you to get your dinners

cooked as you best can, or go without any

none of your other dozen servants

would

the least assistance, and

service

for

will render

you

rather

your

quit

anything connected with

touch

than

the

cook's department.

Servants are the pests of India, for you live in

danger of being robbed

constant

and,

think, that a day seldom elapses in which

you are

The only way

not robbed in one way or another.

you can possibly get on with them

should

by constantly

is,

threatening to send them to the bazaar master, and

have them punished

or by withholding their pay.

Their wages vary from ten shillings to thirty shillings

per month, in Bombay, according to their duties

and stations

no trouble

but one great blessing

in supplying

waf^es cover

all

them with

demands.

They

is,

food,

you have
and

their

sleep outside, in

the verandah, or in

some passage or lobby during

the rainy season

and,

imperfections,

it

is

attached to them.

when

that

in your

is

with

all

astonishing

Many

of

compound

to live in

how soon you

them

the case, you allow

;

their faults

are married

them

and
get-

and

to erect a hut

and, as they set forth

SYSTEM OF HOUSEKEEPING.

upon the

their meals

floor,

177

simply spreading out a

piece of matting, they require very little furniture

a bedstead, a

box or two, and

and earthen

sized brass

and half a cocoa-nut

up

wick, lights

make a

half a dozen different-

with

and

to boil their rice

curry,

and a cotton

oil,

room

their simple

in a corner, between

fire

or cooking-pots

chatties,

filled

at night.

They

two or three

stones,

which

is

the principal

food they live upon.

Of

course, the cook

and

his Portuguese assistants

have nothing to do with them.

He

in the bobbergy -house, or kitchen

and

lives

but he

on good terms with the other servants

very seldom that your domestic comfort

in

upon by

fights or quarrels

Each man has

to perfection

and

purchased,

is

it

is

broken

duty to perform in

Your cook

called in

for dinner,

for the

which he cooks

for they are celebrated for their

You seldom

curries.
till

is

and told what to jDurchase

and what to prepare

dishes

and

amongst them.

his particular

with anything.

after breakfast,

day,

always

The lady of the establishment never

your house.
interferes

is

sleeps

is

it

on the

You

inquire the cost.

see

table.

are, in

made

what he has

At night you

consequence, never

troubled with green-grocers,' butchers', or other

of this description,

thing in the

way

coming

of food

in at Christmas, as every-

is

bills

paid for

when ordered

SCOTCH PRESERVES.

178
a

happy system that would work well

benefiting

payments, which would enable him to

the

cheaper,

To

man

his

however,

return,

the

to

pleasing

dinner-table.

many

givers in India to have as

the table as possible.

goods

anything.

appears to be the great ambition of

soups,

sell

but the purchaser, by the

thought of owing no

money

vender by ready

only the

not

home

at

The

It

dinner-party

all

English dishes on

hermetically-sealed meats,

and confections, that are sent over in

tin cases,

and principally manufactured in Glasgow

for

the

Indian market, are in high repute in Bombay; and

is

curious to

sit

down and

or turbot, as fresh as

stream

carrots,

if

dine upon Scotch salmon,

but just caught

grown

much used

in the land of cakes.

over-stocked,

made them

and other celebrated

as the very
fashionable.

cheeses, are sent out

become dry and hard

not carefully watched,

things innumerable

fruits, are

though excessively dear,

dearness of these articles has

in lead cases, but soon

Green goose-

and other bottled

in pastry, and,

the bazaars are seldom

if

in its native

or to partake of a dish of green peas, or

berries, currants, rhubarb,

Stilton,

it

fall

even

and

a prey to creeping

these leaden cases

are

not always proof against the adamantine teeth of

the bandecoote, or

store-rooms and

country

larders.

rat,

that

infests

remember being

your
pre-

REFRIGERANTS.

179

sented with a fragment of oaten cake, a package of

which had been sent overland, as a great

some

Bombay, though

friends in

treat, to

carriage

its

must

have cost at least a rupee an ounce.

Miniature

playing

fountains,

in

crystal

basins

with the choicest flowers, are occasionally seen

filled

on the tables of some of the merchant-princes of

the East; in fact, every plan that

calculated to

is

cool the atmosphere of their suffocating rooms,

adopted.
this

have often thought that

if

is

any man, in

age of wonders, were fortunate enough to hit

upon an invention that would lower the temperature

of these heated apartments in the hot season, to 70
or

72 degrees,

twelve

and

months,

lasting as those

would

he

be

make

desirable results.
;

Man's ingenuity has

great

its

He

and not without

has called in chemistry

and attraction and repulsion have

been duly investigated.

has had

in

which have been heaped even upon

certainly been put to the test here

to his assistance

fortune

loaded with honours as

a Nelson or a Wellington.

some

his

Every known refrigerant

day, and even the ice that covers the

American lakes has found

its

way

into the

wine-coolers of the Anglo-Indian.

Porous

jars of

common

country- ware

well adapted for cooling water.

made

of a fine clay,

They

are very

are generally

and as they are not glazed, the

NO BOARDING-HOUSES.

180

water slowly percolates through the

sides,

and the

They

consequent evaporation cools the fluid within.

commonly suspended by

are

cane-work handle

to the under branch of a tree near your bungalow.

Some

cover them, as they do also vessels containing

wine, beer, &c., with a bag dipped in a solution of

muriate of ammonia, nitrate of potash,

water

One

thus producing, in

and

a freezing mixture.

of the great disputes between the abdar (water-

cooler)

and

this really

in

fact,

salt,

his

master, turns

upon the neglect of

important duty, for you can drink nothing

India until

has been properly cooled.

it

This

cooling process certainly causes no small trouble in

a large

family,

your servants are constantly

for

and cannot comprehend

losing your cooling-bags,

their utility.

Much

has been said of Indian hospitality

generally speaking, an Englishman

of a hearty welcome,
if

and,

pretty certain

is

arrives in the country,

he has the least introduction to any English

family in the place

measure,

Bombay;

for

as

the
there

pretension to that
is

when he

and

this

absence
is

of

account, in

some

boarding-houses in

only one that has the least

name

the case in Calcutta.

may

in the Fort

I believe this

Captains of vessels usually

sleep on board their ships in harbour

and cadets

THE UNKNOWN ADVENTURER.

and

officers,

upon landing

in India, have quarters

immediately provided for them

unknown adventurer who

hotel,

when

Hindostan.

cast lonely

181

feels

so

it

the

is

only the

want of an

upon the ancient shores of

182

VULGARITY OF WALKING.

CHAPTER

VII.

" Together let us beat this ample

field,

Try what the open, what the covert

yield

Tlie latent tracts, the giddy heights, explore,

Of all who blindly creep, or sightless soar

Eye Nature's walks shoot folly as it fl.ies,
And catch the manners living as they rise."
;

Pecuniary circumstances would not always admit

my

keeping a

or palanquin^ so

tattoo,

exercise depended in a great measure

might make of

my own

legs

my

of

out-door

upon the use

and though

it

I
is

thought extremely vulgar to be seen walking anywhere, and you are supposed to lose caste by the
first

offence of this kind perpetrated in public, yet

was I vulgar enough

if

we

to

walk every day

and, truly,

allow such trifling matters as these to disturb

our happiness,

we can

in the vale through

expect but a sorry pilgrimage

which

all

of us

must wend our

THE HINDOO GENTLEMAN.

way.

Few

money

are annually

183

can form an idea what enormous sums of

expended in India in palanquin

by the people who are

hire alone,

fearful of being

thought poor, or are too proud to walk short dis-

remember one

tances.

whose salary

individual,

was only eighty rupees a month, and out of which he

actually paid

twenty to be carried half a mile twice

a day, to and from his place of business, by four

bearers.

to

My

poverty in this case was, perhaps, an advantage

me

(for,

fess,

gentle reader, I

that I

was poor

am

in India)

extending

opportunity of

not ashamed to con;

gave

it

my

me

a better

knowledge of

the

country, and of observing the national character of

the people, with

whom

it

in their daily avocations,

and customs of
family

now

my

was

lot to

be mixed up

and of studying the habits

human

this large portion of the great

living under the

happy

rule of Great

Britain.

There

is

something extremely pleasing and win-

ning in the natives.

affable,

to

The Hindoo gentleman

is

polite,

and agreeable, though to those unaccustomed

Oriental

salutations, his

rather savour

of servility.

opinion of the English.

simple, consisting

trowsers

of a

address

He

may

entertains

His dress

is

at

times

a high

very plain and

close-fitting robe

and, though the possessor of

and

full

two or three

ALL RELIGIONS TOLERATED.

184

lacks of rupees, he

makes

as low a salaam to

who

the poor hard-working coolie,

few pice a day, and

lies

down

you

as

vegetates on a

at night, contented

and happy, under an old mat stretched over a few

bamboos.
Differing so
it is

much

as they

do in religious matters,

Bombay

truly surprising to find in

number

of

peaceably engaged in the great pur-

mammon

suit of the

Turks,

men

Here

of this world.

Portuguese, Armenians,

castes, all quietly

living together, yet apart, respecting

bour,

No

be.

matters

in

are Jews,

Parsees, Arabians,

Hindoos, and an endless variety of

powers that

such a large

and obeying the

one interferes with his neigh-

connected with

religions are tolerated

his

faith.

All

and the Christian mission-

ary, in order to gain a convert, has

an arduous work

to perform, and a thousand obstacles with which to

contend.

The

history of the castes of India, no doubt,

familiar to

that this

many

little

of

my readers

volume may

fall

but as

it is

is

probable,

into the hands of

young persons not yet conversant with Indian subjects,

I shall, as I have already done, occasionally

give short sketches of what has been gleaned from the

fabled accounts handed

down

in the sacred writings

of the East, so as to blend instruction with amuse-

ment.

The term "

caste," like

many

others in use

THE HISTORY OF
in India,

a Portuguese

is

These

race or lineage.

word

185

CASTE.

and

{casta),

castes, of

signifies a

which there

now

is

such an infinite variety, are said to have originally

The Indian

consisted of four orders.

tell

Brahmins, who compose the

us, that the

proceeded

order,

men

wisdom

the Cshatriaya, from his

Vaisya, from his thigh; and the Sudra,

the

from his

first

from the mouth of the

directly

Creator, the seat of

arm;

sacred books

The Brahmins were

heel.

the Cshatriaya, soldiers, or fighting

Vaisyas, tillers of the land, or

holy

priests, or

husbandmen

men
;

the

and the

Sudras, servants, or daily labourers.

In Mr.
castes

work we

Mills'

impure

learn, that all the

which have sprung from these are to be

ascribed to the force of circumstances

could not reach

which laws

while the children born of parents

of different castes were regarded as belonging to no

caste at all

their unfortunate birth sinking

beneath the degraded Sudra.

became a formidable body

state,
Ci'eated

the

that

These

them

castes, in time,

and the sacred books

Brahmins, by supernatural means,

a Sovereign, to arrest the growing

evil.

This

wonderful person classified them, and gave to each a

particular

occupation

robbers, they
I

bers are not

and instead of thieves and

became industrious

six classes are there

1

known.

artisans.

Thirty-

spoken of ; but their actual num-

THE DOORGA POOJAH.

186

I have mingled with the

the

covers

small island of

amounting

to 506,119

Bombay

(a population

without

souls,

depend-

its

and have been a passive spectator of

encies),

One

of the most striking of these festivals

the Doorga Poojah, which

bay, and which,

continues

their

perhaps in their attractive splen-

festivals, unrivalled

dour.

enormous population that

for

annually held in

is

is

Bom-

commencing on the 15th of October,

three

or four

days.

It

honour of a female already introduced

held in

is

to us at the

caves of Elephanta, as the slayer of the terrible giant

Parvati.

structed

very splendid

and

after various ceremonies, the

on the third day, touch

set

up

image of her

different parts

to Bhagabatee, for such

and then publicly

of Bhagabatee has
of this farce

is,

her

is

is

Brahmins,

of the idol

title in

Bombay,

declare, that the departed

come

into her.

con-

spirit

The consequence

that hundreds, firmly believing

this nonsense, bring costly gifts to the shrine

all

all

of

which are quietly taken possession of by the grave

priests (quite

But I

a Popish trick).

Malcolm's graphic description of this

witnessed

it

in Calcutta,

where holidays of

who can always

by the

religious follies of this sort.

he

this sort

Bombay, and

Hindoo population,

rich

find plenty of

quote

festival, as

are carried on with greater zest than in

are better supported

shall

money

He

says,

to

expend

'

THE
"

The

who

other gods,

is

spent in waking up Doorga and

are supposed to have slept since the

Shayan Ekadashee.

festival of

are

day

first

187

SACRIFICES.

The second

day,

vows

made, and offerings of water, flowers, sweet-

meats, &c., are presented.

The

day

third

is

occupied

with ceremonies to bring the soul of Doorga into the

To

image.

effect this,

incantations,

offers

the priest

repeats prayers,

and touches the

nose, breast, &c., of the

image with

eyes,

cheeks,

his finger.

The

image now becomes an object of worship, and crowds

offer it

divine honours, presenting at the same time

large quantities of fruit, clothing,

and food, which, of

course, are perquisites to the Brahmins.

day streams with the blood of animal

worshippers dance before the

drums

beat,

idol,

and shouts rend the

The fourth

sacrifices.

The

smeared with gore

air.

The heads only

of the victims are offered, the worshippers eating the

carcases,

and rioting in strong drink.

Such Hin-

doos as worship Vishneu, not being permitted to shed

blood, offer pumpkins, melons, sugar-cane, &c.,
are cut in

juice
1

may

two with the

flow forth.

sacrificial

which

knife, that the

All these days the image

is

kept in the house, and the services performed in

inferior courts, so that the streets

fusion or

stir.

The evenings

show

little

of con-

are occupied with songs

and dancing, often of an indecent character."

The

author goes on to say, that the last great day brings

188
the

THE PROCESSION.
goddess abroad, carried in

triumph upon the

shoulders of men, to be thrown into the river.

In Bombay, Bhagabatee was taken down to Back

Bay, but not thrown into the

here extended for nearly half a mile

interesting I ever

splendid

holiday

carrying

of the

attire

in India.

children glittering in cloth of gold

bells

necks and silver plates on their heads

Poonah

little

figure about the size

bullocks drawing them, with

sweetmeat

some

or

cars decked out with flowers

available post

The

each one

natives,

rich coloured umbrella,

of a Dutch doll

leaves

one of the most

remember seeing

mimic temple, containing a wax

and jewels

The procession

sea.

on the

sellers,

line of

stalls

of

and every one tossed

returned quietly

round their

while every

march was occupied by

toys,

and Surat and

They marched down

figures.

and green

to the sea-side,

in his little temple,

home

and then

again.

These exhibitions, observes Mr. Malcolm, not only

present Doorga, but several images, often as large as
life,

The

very handsomely moulded, of wax, clay, or paper.

figure of Doorga,

which he thus describes as seen

at Calcutta, agrees with

at

Bombay.

"

my own

recollection of her

Under an ornamented canopy stands

the goddess, stretching out her ten arms, each of

which has a

different occupation.

with a spear the giant Nahisha

One

transfixes

others hold imple-

ECONOMY.

189
Beneath her

ments of war, flowers, sceptres, &c.

feet is a lion, tearing the said giant

are

her

Kartic and

sons,

home on

and on each

side

The whole

Ganesh.

is

a frame or bier, requiring twenty bearers.

The group

is

ornament,

some

got up with

much

of which

skill,

really

is

and no

little

tasteful

and

ornamental."
festival,

Mr.

Malcolm observes, that " the men employed to

cast

the fabric into the river, no sooner got a

little

way

from the shore in the boat, than they began to

rifle

In concluding his description of this

the goddess of her muslins, plumes,

and gilded orna-

ments, so that often nothing but a mere wreck was

may remark, that the figure

Bombay with all the drapery, by

thrown overboard."

was taken out

at

those engaged to carry

side,

it

when

it

arrived at the sea-

and only a trumpery frame-work was placed on

man who waded

Upon
deep water.

the head of a

out and cast

him

into

inquiring

why

the figure

whom

was not thrown

much money, and

again for Poojah next year

from

the reason

in also, the person of

I asked the question told

lady cost

it

me

that the

wax

they should want her

a piece of

economy with

which I was much amused.

There
festivals

is

seldom a month in which some of these

are not

Mohammedans

held,

either

and so great

is

by the Hindoos or
their attraction, that

BETROTHMENT OF CHILDREN.

190

many

of the public offices are closed for want of

hands, and business

is

entirely suspended for the

time.

The Brahmins reap

feasts,

and the hosts of

their hair

rich harvests during these

religious mendicants, with

matted with cow dung, and their bodies

smeared over with pigments, are

set

up once more

with plenty of pocket-money, extorted from these

simple and holiday-loving people.
I have joined the gorgeous processions attending

the

betrothment of Hindoo children

striking

though certainly a painful ceremony to witness,

reflect, that

condemn

his little inno-

cent and unconscious bride to perpetual

The

servitude.

gether for the

first

may

never see one

Their parents often live

some hundreds of miles apart

for the

widowhood

children are brought to-

time, and

another again for years.

comes

and when the time

consummation of the marriage, the

parties are perfect strangers to each other,

or

has

may
left

we

the death of the boy, at this time only

six or seven years old, will

and low

if

not live happily together.

them no choice

avarice, high caste,

for

and may

cruel

themselves.

custom
Sordid

and family aggrandizement, are

but too often the motives of a Hindoo marriage, to

the utter exclusion of the natural ties of a holy love.

The Brahmin,

in

blessing

the pair,

now perhaps

twelve or fourteen years of age, scatters over them a

TEMPLE WORSHIP.
handful of
is

191

emblematical of fruitfulness

rice,

then fixed on the trembling

girl, as

his eye

he directs her

attention to the mystic fire burning between them,

and suggestive of that

ever,

which now, how-

thanks to the humanity of England, and to the

God who has taught

Hindoo

girl,

to thee

no

her mercy,

is

abolished.

Go,

with the husband of thy youth, and

now

thou canst not

it

fearful Suttee,

love him,

now

sacrifice is

please Providence to

may

time endear him

Should

required of thee.

make

if

thee early a widow, thy

thy own, while Christian England protects

life is still

thee.

I have looked at all hours into the Indian temples,

where crowds
bore but

fell

little

down and worshipped

idols that

resemblance to things on earth or

things under the earth, being in truth horrible caricatures of

humanity

rancid cocoa-nut

oil,

frightful monstrosities, laved in

and bedaubed with red

paint,

over which a fair wreath of flowers withered in the

Round and round walked the

mumbling a vain repetition of some

tainted atmosphere.

worshippers,

stated formula,

till

the eye was wearied

by

their

motion, and the heart pained by the vanity of their

superstition.

" grieve

him

him

They knew not God, and did but

Him

with their

hill

altars,

and provoke

to displeasure with their images."

In such

visits

I always met with kindness from

192

INSPECTION OF HINDOO TEMPLES.

Many

those in charge of the temples.

persons, as I

was given to understand, had been rather rudely

treated

when

inspecting these sanctuaries of idolatry

but from what I could

learn, they

they saw, and treated the

had ridiculed

all

officers of these establish-

ments with contempt and

insolence.

surprised at the reception they

Can we be

met with

Though

I did not go beyond the porch, as I should then have

been obliged to uncover

custom of the country

my

feet

according to the

would have

(for leather shoes

defiled the temple), yet I always

removed

my

hat, as

the ground upon which I stood appeared to me, in

some

sort, holy.

Was

however ignorantly,

who

is

these

it

not, I thought, dedicated,

to the

one great Father of

all,

indeed seen but darkly through his works by

my

poor

benighted

For

fellow-creatures?

them, as well as for myself, a dying Saviour had

made an atonement on
finished

would
as he

He

and does

He

the cross,

not even

full,

now

perfect,

pity them, and

not gladly gather them into his

wept over the

lost

and

fold,

ones of Jerusalem

such feelings must arise in the mind of every

man who enters these buildinfjs.

Many of the English residents who

even

Some
reflect-

ins:

fined bungalows,

live in con-

or have houses near the Fort or

other close buildings, obtain permission to erect tents

and portable

cottages, during the hot season,

on the

LACK OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.

193

open space of ground adjoining the esplanade.

and animated

bustling

runs through

of

resort

infinite variety of people

more par-

and denominations, but

in their offices

day

all

most fashionable

certainly the

is

it

on the island; every description of conveyance,

from the two-hundred-guinea London clarence,

and bullock hackery, finding

carriage

to

and heavy rumbling native

the one-horse shegram,

for

seven

five to

by those who have been pent up

ticularly

like

noble carriage- road

and of an evening, from

it,

classes

all

scene.

crowded by an

o'clock, is

who

a delightful one to tliose

situation is

This

its

way

hither,

an hour or two's display before dinner.

The ground

is

Back Bay on one

on the
town.

other

Few

a dead level for two miles, with

side,

the

trees

and Bombay

grow upon

pretty.

and harbour

road terminating in

to obstruct the breeze,

cessively

fort

it,

the

as they are supposed

and the view, which

When

as a military

opposite his
^y the

is

ex-

Commander-in-chief

the

has his tents pitched here, the attraction is

^reat,

new

doubly

band performs every evening

compound

a treat not often enjoyed

good people of Bombay, who have not a

dngle public amusement, unless

lorse-races

it

be some stupid

once a year, and a botanical garden, that

lobody appears to take any interest

)erformances

certainly

were

in.

Theatrical

once attempted,

but

94

MUSIC.

they met with

little

encouragement, in consequence

of some characters of doubtful reputation appearing

upon the boards.

Afany a half-hour have I passed near

this stand,

watching the natives, who delighted to throng round

the

musicians,

exhibiting

in

countenances

their

various expressions of pleasure and surprise, as the

rich notes floated sweetly

Some were
painting."

upon the

in fact " possessed

The degraded and

still

evening

air.

beyond the muse's

sensual

Mohammedan,

whose soul seldom soared beyond the regions of

animal

gratification,

would pause here, as he passed

by and caught the melodies of other lands

the noisy occupants

draw up

of

and

the bullock-gharry would

their uncouth vehicle,

the time.

and remain

Groups of children

sat around,

silent for

but the

passion for dancing, so universal in other countries

under the inspiration of music, was wanting among

them

On

they were only attentive hearers like myself.

such occasions, thoughts that long had slept were

revived,

as the familiar notes

days that had

fled for ever

recalled to

for,

" Like the gale that sighs along

Beds of

oriental flowers,

Is the grateful breath of song,

That once was heard

in happier hours.

memory

FINE-WEATHER HOUSES.
Filled with

balm the

195

gale siglis on,

Though the flowers have sunk in death

So, when pleasure's dream is gone,
Its

Some

memory Hves

in music's breath/'

of the Hindoos have a \ery high opinion of

their

own

musical capabilities, and do not scruple to

say,

thait

the English are far behind

The

matter, and in horsemanship.

the assertion

Many

them

latter part

of the fine -weather houses erected on the

principally

constructed

of

which are

split

being

having

The

cane-work.

gardens in front are separated by

paling, into

and

bamboos,

thatched roofs interwoven with

bamboo

tastefully trained flowering

creepers and shrubs that have been

;

of

we may perhaps acknowledge.

esplanade are very pretty and ornamental

in tubs

in this

grown elsewhere

while China jars and rustic seats combine

to produce a pleasing effect.

What was but

a few

weeks ago a long rambling piece of ground, unoccupied except by a stray police-station, has thus

been transformed into a busy

little

town.

Oflicers

leave of absence from their regiments, or but

on

newly

arrived in the country, and other strangers, gladly

avail themselves of the privilege granted

application,

and pitch their camp-tents

Indian jugglers,

chumpH

them upon

here.

or snake-charmers, and

a variety of odd wandering characters peculiar to

AN ENGLISH TAR ABROAD.

196

the East, add not a

little

to the

Here the young

place.

uniform

for the

first

amusements of

soldier

time

in

mounts

this

new

his

and gallops

India,

happily amidst the varied medley of rich and beaucostumes.

tiful

Near one of the gateways that lead

may be
together, who

seen a crowd

Fort,

into the

gathering

of natives

appear to be enjoying a hearty laugh

We

at something in the centre of the group.

take a peep at the object of this sport

by no means uncommon

I regret to say,

will

an object,

One

here.

of those unfortunate specimens of our countrymen,

a drunken English

sailor,

has been making a variety

of ludicrous attempts to stand steady upon his

legs

but the

him down

demon

again,

own

cheap arrack tumbles

spirit of

and again the

air is rent

shouts and laughter of the ragged throng.

with the

He

has

from him;

no jacket on,

for that has been stolen

and now he

threatening death and destruction to

what he

calls

who won't
upon

is

sons of niggers and j^f'^coat fellows,

lend

his legs.

him

He

hand

tipsy

him up again

has been out to Dungaree, and,

as a matter of course, has

ticularly

to help

made

himself most par-

amongst the Portuguese drinking-

shops in that famed

locality,

and has contrived

to get

so far towards his ship, having expended, perhaps,

half his hard-earned wages during the last twenty-

A SKETCH FROM

197

LIFE.

four hours, and completely verified the old saying,

that " sailors earn their
it

money

and spend

like horses,

Fortunately, however, for

too often like asses."

the credit of our country, the natives understand

but

little

of what he says, though the 'words, " bad

man," whispered among the better dressed attracted

to the spot, grates disagreeably

makes us

feel

not a

upon our

ears,

and

ashamed of our connection

little

with this " son of the ocean."

policeman,

in

a yellow turban, blue gown, and red sash, finally

drags him off to the thanna,

fever,

home

probability,

from exposure to the sun.

fell

manner

and in

this

This
of the

is

not in the least

way

in

which too

of our countrymen conduct themselves in the

I have sketched

have I seen English

it

from the

sailors,

ous arrack and cheap

lying

individual being quite

the deceased

an exaggerated picture

East.

for the truth, with

seldom told

is

overlooked or forgotten.

many

and places unjustly blamed;

are countries

the habits of

His friends at

a victim to the effects of

the dreadfully unhealthy climate

respect to such matters,

clothes, and,

a day or two of brain

dies in

are told that he

down

to his ship in

money and

the harbour, robbed of his

all

he sobers

The next morning, he returns

again.

in

till

of

How

often

overcome by the poison-

spirits,

near the docks

life.

which are so abundant,

Bombay, covered with

198

LIVING IN TENTS.

and

bruises

flies,

and

knows

the drunkard only

the

sun,

fast asleep

they

What an example

hlacksy

a sleep as

blistering in a dreadful

of what

ridicule

such

is

"

call

this

tlie

Iveatlien

we

Surely

need not be surprised that our missionaries make

but few converts.

Tents

may

be purchased or hired from the manu-

Their charges vary from ten to twenty

facturers.

rupees a month, according to size and quality.

is

how

surprising to see

a large marquee.
rooms,

are

fec.,

all

construction.

It

reconciled to this
retire

at

quickly they will pitch you

cooking-rooms, bath-

Stables,

made

and a great deal of

It

neatly of the

same

material,

taste is often displayed in their

is

some time before you become

mode

of living

night with that

you cannot

for

comfortable

feeling of

security that a stone-built house gives.

One
living

of the great disadvantages attending tentis,

the

you

annoyance which

suffer

mosquitoes, which, on some evenings, literally

around your rooms.

delight

the

in

canvas,

swarm

These pests of the tropics

fastening themselves
in the

from

day-time,

quiet and unobserved

to

the

lining

of

where they remain

but as soon as the evening

shades prevail, and your lamps are

lit

at night,

and

you are comfortably

your book,

the

light attracts

them

settled

at once,

with

and each one sounds

his

THE HORRIBLE MOSQUITOES.

199

well-known but dreadful note of war in your

ears.

weather have the

effect

That peculiar
of driving

can be

states of the

all

little

mosquitoes within doors, there

the

doubt

have observed

for I

some evenings, your rooms

quite free

are

them, while on others the nuisance

compel you to

open

the

all

from

so great as to

is

flies

on

that,

and tapework

windows, and to have them punkahed out by your

servants.

From

the low and

swampy

Bombay,

character of

so favourable to the propagation of these insects,

we

are not surprised at being told,

this

island,

there

that

alight

of

it

good

water, and a

So gently do the mosquitoes

upon an exposed

conscious

until

part,

that

have

they

you are never

insinuated their

minute proboscis into an open pore, and

foundation of an hour or two's misery.

mosquitoe will feast upon you,

about twenty minutes.

He

but,

when

suffering

if

is

he reaches the

and,

hungry

when he has

from a long

down

stream

thinly covered with

not so particular, but bores

life-

laid the

undisturbed, for

generally,

the choice, selects a vein that

cuticle

in

two luxuries you are

are

never to expect to enjoy here

quiet night's repose.

upon landing

fast,

he

is

at a venture, until

when

satisfied,

you

are astonished to see the great change that has taken

place in his aj^pearance.

The tiny body has become

NATIVES NOT ATTACKED BY MOSQUITOES.

200

swollen as round as

away

heavily

to

some secluded

pangs of hunger again

he

is

of a spider

tliat

and he

corner,

flies

the

until

In

him.

assail

state

this

a very tempting morsel to our friend the room-

The wound,

lizard.

if

not irritated, presents nothing

to the eye hut a small circular red patch, about the

pea

size of half a split

it rises

into a hard

but

tumour, and, in some

little

even run into a tedious

will

which

are attacked,

temporary blindness
It

is

When

sore.

the eyelids

not an

uncommon

result.

curious the natives are seldom attacked by

these insects.
subject,

truth of

was not a

and made many

it

the

their dark-coloured

it is

some of them use upon

persons, I believe that they are

in a great

protected from their attacks.

country claims

interested in the

little

inquiries to ascertain

but whether

skin, or the oil that

the

cases,

not unusual during sleep,

is
is

excited by friction,

if

their

fresh

especial

their

measure

arrival

attention

in

and

I have often pitied the tortures that some endure

from

these

insect

enemies.

When

writing, I was always obliged to

wear gloves

though they made the hands awfully

the two

evils,

the heat

the least.

is

reading

hot,

Blood

or

and

yet,
is

of

not

the natural food of these insects, though they are

80 skilful in extracting

the

banks

of

rivers,

it

marshy, wooded lands,

and old

reservoirs,

breed

201

THE WISDOM OF GOd's PROVIDENCE.

mosquitoes, that

millions of

can seldom have an

opportunity of tasting blood.

The common plumed gnat of England

plwmicomis),

a small variety of this widely-dis-

is

tributed insect.

It

may

appear strange, that even

incommoded with

in Lapland the inhabitants are so

swarms of

(tipula

gnats, that the poor people scarcely dare

go abroad, without

smearing

their

faces

with a

mixture of tar and cream, to protect them from

their bites.

ently of

Linnaeus has thought, that, independ-

their supplying nutritious

merable birds and

fish,

mosquitoes and other winged

pests are beneficial to the cattle

by inducing them
the

ill

effects

climates,

it

is

which they

to take exercise,

attack,

and so preventing

warm

of indolence and repletion in

where food

require but

food to innu-

little

is

generally so plentiful as to

searching after.

certain that

many an

Be

this as it

may,

apparent evil in nature

has been wisely ordained by the Almighty, for the

universal

good of

his creatures,

though perhaps to

the inconvenience of man.

There
the

is

a shelving bank that slopes

esplanade

to the

sea-shore,

and

down from

here,

of

an

evening, numbers of the poor natives assemble to

pray at stated hours.

was often struck with the

earnestness of their devotions, and became familiar

with the faces of

many who were most

regular in

THE FIRE-WORSHIPPER.

202

One was an Arabian Jew

their attendance.

why he came

but

here to pray, I could never learn.

Another was a very aged, tottering old man, with a

beard of silvery whiteness, and a back bowed be-

neath the weight of years.

and fervent

him without

and

was impossible to look upon

it

man was

feeling that that

With

with the Deity."

endeavouring

His prayers were long

eyes raised upwards, as

penetrate

to

" in audience

the dark

overhead, his thoughts seemed

fixed

blue canopy

on something

removed beyond the grovelling things of

far

Could

this

Not
knew

far

to be

yet his

with

liis

man,

I thought,

be a blind idolater

from him stood a

engaged

all

tall

if

Parsee, a

earth.
?

man

day in business in the Fort

worldly cares never appeared to interfere

religious duties.

At

his feet lay his high

card-board turban, for he stood uncovered during

this

by

Prayer after prayer was repeated

solemn hour.

this earnest disciple of Zoroaster

and how often

was the poor body prostrated and humbled

very dust, as the

little

to the

book from which he read

his

prayers brought to his remembrance sins of which

he had been guilty, or a feeling of his own unworthiness flashed across his

mind

was when the sun was sinking

His favourite hour

to his rest

and

as,-

from the bank, he obtained a view of the glorious

departing orb, as

it

dipped beneath the far horizon

203

ENGLISH CHRISTIANITY.

and tinged the purple waters with a stream of

fulgent light,

worshipper

and again did the poor

again

re-

fire-

throw himself forward on the earth

again and again did he press his forehead as

if

in

agony, and, with arms stretched out towards the

sinking luminary, again and again did he supplicate
it

to convey his sorrows

throne of

Him whom

in any other way.

and

his repentance to the

he knew not

how

to approach

I could not but think that this

poor ignorant idolater was using to better purpose

his
his

one

talent, the little light that

dark mind, than

many

had dawned upon

Christians use the full

blaze of gospel day.

"Within a few yards of this interesting scene rolled

the carriages of the wealthy children of

England

of those who, like myself, had received ten talents.

Had

they become familiar with, or indifferent

the condition
or,

to,

of these poor deluded worshippers

was there nothing that they could do individually

to assist the laborious efforts of the few missionaries

who had been

sent out to proclaim Christ crucified,

in this land of

true that

pagan darkness

many had

or,

was

it

indeed

rather retarded than advanced

that righteous cause in India,

example and lax morality

was not altogether thus

by

their

own bad

Let us hope, that

yet

it

is

true,

that

it

we

have made but slow progress in the great work of

204

A PARADOX.

evangelizing India, during the nearly two hundred

years that have elapsed since the British flag

Were

floated over the battlements of Surat.

tapering

spire

of

Scotch Church, a stranger

the

doubt whether Christianity

at times almost

had ever been introduced

sands yet

How

is

money

not

massive tower of the Cathedral, and the

for the

would

it

first

fall
it,

down

at

Bombay, where thou-

to worship their graven images.

we may

ask, that

we can always

to protect the country with our

find

armies, to

raise magnificent palaces for our governors, to fortify

our possessions, to sustain an Indian navy, to con-

and

struct public roads

and

cities

a year

by projected

to support

canals, to unite our

railways, to contribute

the

brutal

rites

towns

G000

and atrocious

barbarities connected with the blood-thirsty temple

of Juggernaut, and yet say, that

to send out a few

more

we cannot

afford

missionaries, in return for

the enormous sums drawn from our Indian possessions

" Can these things be,

And overcome
Without our

us like a summer's dream.

special

Four more bishops are

wonder ]

at length to

be sent out, in

order to lighten the onerous duties of those already

appointed.

This

right direction.

is

a gratifying

Conscience

is

movement

in the

beginning to accuse

205

INDIAN BISHOPS.

But we want

US of our guilty neglect of India.

more

field-labourers

men who

highways and byways

cluded

districts,

go out into her

into her jungle-villages

into those wild

mountain-fastnesses;

her

will

where the

feet of

and

and
se-

him who bringeth

good tidings of great joy have never yet brushed

away the dews of the morning.

Middleton

It is nearly thirty-six years since Dr.

was appointed

first

bishop of Calcutta, with episcopal

authority over the whole of British India.

man

of great piety and learning,

"Bishop's

He was

College."

accomplished Keginald Heber,

of

his

and founded

succeeded

who

He was
by the

carried out

many

good designs, but who was

predecessor's

removed by an early death from the sphere of

usefulness.
first

It has

been observed, that these two

appointments were

that lawn

his

most happily

made,

and

has seldom been worn by better men.

Since then, Bombay, Madras, and Agra, have been

made

separate bishoprics; but even with this addi-

tion to the ecclesiastical

impossible

staff,

it

to keep pace with the

of so large a country.

was found quite

growing wants

The Presidency of Bombay

alone contains a large extent of Aurungabad, Candeish,

and Guzerat

and the number of souls under

the British government in India has been computed

at 80,000,000.

206

NEED OF EDUCATION.

The establishment

of public schools in

our large towns, where

religious

all

of

the useful branches of a

and sound English education are taught

to the native scholars, has already

at

many

the presidencies.

writer

worked wonders
the

in

QuAxrterly

Review, in dwelling upon this all-important subject,

has remarked that " a general knowledge of history

and geography

will

at once disperse that cloud of

more than Egyptian darkness, which,

ages, has confined their view.

consider Blount

Meru

and the world as a

of religion."

many

they cease to

as twenty thousand miles high,

flower, of

and other countries the

become more open

When

for so

which India

leaves,

their

to rational views

is

the cup

minds may

on the subject

207

SUNSET.

CHAPTER

"

The moon,

VIII.

refulgent

lamp of niglit,

O'er heaven's clear azure spreads her sacred light,

When not a breath disturbs the deep

And not a cloud o'ercasts the solemn
Around her throne the
And stars unnumbered

serene.
scene.

vivid planets roll.

gild the glowing pole

O'er the dark trees a yellow verdure shed.

And

The

tip

with silver every mountain's head."

great orb of clay has rolled

west, but its lingering glory

where around

us.

We

is

down

reflected every-

still

can trace

it

into the far

gilding the tops

of the mosques and spires, and burnishing the green

leaves of the cocoa-nut palms, as they

the evening breeze.

We

expanse of waters, as
lone

sail,

it

can track

it

move

gently in

over the wide

brings out in fine relief a

homeward bound

purple haze that floats over

we can

see

all things.

it

in the rich

If

we turn

208

AN INDIAN NIGHT.

we

our eyes towards the

east,

how

advancing upon

rapidly night

is

are surprised to see

us,

and how

speedily the lofty mountains, and the towering peak

known

"Queen

as the

of Mahratta's needle," are

becoming veiled from our view.

Lights begin to

glimmer here and there upon the

darkened sky over the horizon
after sunset,

by

flashes

The

electric fluid.

is

coast,

and the

illumined, for hours

from clouds charged with the

transition from

day to night, in

those parts of India that are situated between the

being very sudden, we, here,

tropics,
little

know

very

of the sun's reflected rays,

of that lingering

which constitutes the twilight of northern climes.

The heavens
hues of

all

beautiful,

We
and

are for a brief space tinged with the

glorious things, unutterably, indescribably

and then the

brilliant picture fades

must now again turn our attention to

away.
earth,

take, during these quiet hours, a passing glance

at the scenes around us

character of

its

deserted

shore

for

The

own.

busy day are over

an Indian night has a

noise and bustle of the

the crowded esplanade

is all

but

the prayerful Parsee has quitted the sea-

the last carriage, with

its

pale

and languid

occupants, has passed through the gateway that leads

into the Fort

the barracks

the evening tattoo has been rolled at

the tired sentinel has been

from his post of duty

relieved

and the heavy tramp of the

THE SNAKE-CHARMER.

209

sepoy guard, as he paces slowly up and down before

the low sallyport, halting occasionally to challenge
the stray rambler with the accustomed interrogatory,

Quon

hie ?

upon the
If

(Who

goes there

1)

just heard to fall

is

dull ear of night.

we look

across the battlements,

bright lamps burning in

see rows of

some of the high houses,

which are occupied by English

the inhabitants have

we

families,

and of which

now thrown wide open

the large

Venetian shutters, in order to give free admittance to

the night air; and
position

we may even

detect

from our

upon the esplanade, the incessant movements

of room-punkahs, and the restlessness of those

who

are pacing to and fro, in consequence of the excessive

heat.

The

begging crowds, that had for hours

idle,

haunted the entrances to the neighbouring mosques,

have now dispersed for the night; and the great

Hindoo temple dedicated

back the

last

The wretched
lain all

prayers of
cripple,

day upon

its

a second Lazarus,
stretcher

by

to

Momba

its

Devi has echoed

idolatrous worshippers.

who, helpless as an infant, has

steps,

covered with sores like

has been carried

his friends, to lose a

home on a

few hours in

sleep,

but to open his eyes on the morrow to another day

of misery.

The cunning snake-charmer has twisted

the fangless cobra di capello round his neck; has

LABOURERS IN INDIA AND ENGLAND.

210

up

rolled

made

and brass

his painted sticks

has

his final salaam to the gaping multitude,

and

balls

has started off to his native village, to enjoy the

profits of his day's deception,

at the credulity of

and to laugh

in secret

mankind.

The Mohammedan devotee

creeps into his mat-

covered hut, and has strangely found again the use

of the withered arm, which, during the whole past
day, standing

by the

side of the public footpath, he

member

has held up as an immovable

counts over the

many

pice that the

and now

hand of charity

has compassionately bestowed upon him, in accord-

ance with the Prophet's precepts.

He

has

made a

flourishing trade of his pretended religion,

and

upon the labour of the industrious

India

few.

lives

heavily taxed by these imposters, and throughout

is

its

length and breadth groans under their numbers.

There
ing his

is

a poor Sudra, a hard-working man, wend-

way homeward,

tired

and weary, over the hot

His feverish day has been passed

dusty road.

in

one

of those grim old buildings near the dock-yard, in

packing raw cotton into bales for exportation, to be

unpacked by

his fellow-labourers in

But how superior

elsewhere.

have no suffocating heat,

name

there

prevent

is

shall

in

is

Manchester and

their lot to his

which to

toil

they

to their

attached no debasing caste, which will

I

say for ever?

the

poor Indian

THE EDIBLE

211

BAT.

labourer from rising in the social scale of civilization.

him,

Life, to

is

but a season of

toil

and

insult, of

which in eternity he expects but the renewal

within the gates of Paradise he, as he
believe,

can

outside,

for the benefit

never

chosen ones.

enter

but

humble

now and with

over

who

will

and a contrite

His day has been a day of

spirit.
is

faithful

not that the Great Pro-

prietor has given a free invitation to all

come unto Him with

labour

still

and luxury of the

He knows

for,

taught to

is

must

suffering, but it

the few annas secreted in the

folds of his ragged turban, he trudges

homeward,

content, if not grateful, to partake of a frugal repast

of rice and plantains

and

after

having enjoyed his

hookah, and a bath, and a half-hour's communion

with the red idol in the centre of his dwelling, he

sleep well

will

by the

side

away among the cocoa-nut

of his simple family,

plantations,

which are so

dimly and indistinctly seen from the spot on which

we

stand.

The

large edible bat startles us in our meditations,

as he hovers between us

upon the

blot

does he
the

air,

home

sail

phanta.

face of the heavens.

stars, like

How

swiftly

along upon his leathern wings, cleaving

unheard by us

is in

and the bright

soft

and

noiseless

His

the ruined temples of Salsette and Ele-

Night has tempted him abroad

and

his

EXUBERANCE OF

212

LIFE.

keen eyes detect the dancing insects that (attracted

by the

lights within)

hum

in

myriads between the

The

rows of white tents scattered near the shore.

withered grass at our feet appears to be

with

filled

Large beetles are issuing from the sun-cracks

life.

in the earth,

and are rattling

their hard cases against

the dry stubble, as they rise heavily into the cool

air,

and add their buzzing voices to the music of

the night.

The

fire-fly

glowing

{dcUer TioctUucus) hastens to join the

circles

that play joyously under the

jack-trees, near the sanitarium

now

lighting

now ranging

cups of fresh-blown flowers,

old

up the

over the

tanks where the spotted frog croaks undisturbed

still

upon the buoyant

Crickets weary the ear

leaves.

with their eternal chirping

weasel utters
in

our path.

life

its

and the timid musk-

piercing cry, as

we stumble over

it

Everything around us teems with

and ere daylight has bid farewell to

earth,

night sends forth her mighty hosts to re-people the

world.

Vain would be the attempt of man to try

even to enumerate,

much more

infinity of creatures, great

sunset

and

sunrise,

and

to

classify,

small, that,

move abroad on

or fan the light air with their wings.

the

between

the

earth,

The mind

becomes confused by the mere idea of such an

undertaking.

A HINDOO GOLGOTHA.
There

is

213

one spectacle whicli particularly attracts

our attention, and whicli

is

perhaps more worthy of

our notice than the objects upon which I have so

hurriedly touched.

It

is

the blazing

Back Bay, of the funeral

of

upon the shores

pyres, which, in

the

hours of evening, often illuminate the heavens,

still

and scare the wild sea-birds as they return to

place of roosting

among

the high

cliffs

their

on Malabar

Point.

My
upon

first visit

to this

my memory

Hindoo Golgotha

fresh

for it left a strong impression

not easily to be effaced.

had been erected

is still

at the

Five or six of these pyres

head of the bay

a district

that has, I believe, for ages been set apart for the

purpose of burning the bodies of the dead.

evening, soon after

tempted

arrival in the islaad, curiosity

to ride out in that direction, in order to

these supposed beacons, which I

see

were

My

me

my

lit

had fancied

home

to guide the fishing-boats

surprise

One

at night.

was great upon going up to one of

them, to see the legs of a dead Hindoo protruding

from between the logs of timber that were, ere long,

to

consume the

feet high,

body.

The pyre was about

and having been clumsily

consequence, given

way

at one

end

five

built, it had, in

a circumstance

which had not escaped the prying eyes of some huge

fulvous vultures,

which were

screaming overhead,

FUNERAL PYRES.

214

and making sundry dives downwards, towards

attractive spot,
least to

thank

About

fifty

and which did not appear in the

me

for disturbing them.

yards from this pyre was another, on

man

which was stretched the body of either a young

or a female, which

ness of

this

some attendants, with a

manner which showed

careless-

regard for the

little

deceased, were busily covering with small fagots about

a foot in length, which they pitched on to the

from a bullock-cart near at hand.

quantity of
applied to

wood had been

pile

After a sufficient

piled up, a torch

some inflammable material

was

at the base,

and within an hour afterwards the whole was one

mass of

There did not appear to be any

fierce fire.

form or religious ceremony whatever

nor was

tliere

any weeping or lamentation, or other outward sign

of grief, from those

of

whom

may
of

who

stood around, three or four

I fancied were.relatives

but "the heart

break without a tear," and the sorrows of some

these by-standers

might be deep and

though I could not detect them.

silent,

lasting,

There they stood,

and apparently unmoved, watching the angry

flames as they devoured the mortal body of one

had now put on immortality!

satisfied that

the

wood was

As soon

who

as they were

well ignited, they all

walked away together, towards a plantation, where

stands a ruined temple, under cover of which the

BURNING THE DEAD.

whole party was soon
exception of one

moment
given

to

lost

my

215
view, with the

woman, who again paused

as if to take a last farewell.

much

could I have

known

for a

would have

her real feelings,

and what was passing in her mind.

Lower down upon the shore were

company of

children playing round the dying embers of a funeral

pyre, just as if
fire

it

had been a

fifth

of

November bon-

but they from their infancy had been familiar

with these scenes of death, and they had for them

no

The neighbourhood of

terror.

this

place

of

burning was strewed with human bones, some partly

calcined, others quite perfect,

and white as the driven

snow, from having been tossed about by the waves

at high water,

and

left to

bleach in the sun.

perfect bones were those of children,

who

The

are buried

here in the sands, and whose bones are generally

disinterred

by the

first

springs that flow

up

them

to

the natives seldom take the trouble to bury

them

deep enough to secure them against such casualties.

The Hindoo custom

is
its

a very ancient one

of burning their adult dead

and

it is

thought to have had

origin in the popular superstition current

among

them, that, after the body has been destroyed by

fire,

no

evil

being can have any further power over

the emancipated spirit.

The Hindoos

believe, that

should this religious duty be omitted through neglect,

THE SUTTEE.

216

the surviving friends of the

departed

prohability, have their happiness disturbed

quent

visits

from some unclean migratory

in that case

is

in

will,

by

soul,

all

fre-

which

supposed to make a point of taking

immediate possession of the unburned and vacant

tenement.
It has been

India,

during the late wars in

stated, that

the anxiety of the native soldiers to burn

was so great that they

their slain brethren-in-arms

would often run the utmost

risk

being taken

of

prisoners, in their endeavours to procure

the purpose.
left

This feeling

to preserve the

happily

is

memory

all

its

Anglo-Indian

that

is

for

now

of the dreadful Suttee,

which, by the persevering efforts and

conduct of

wood

rulers, is

determined

now

all

but

absolutely abolished throughout our Indian empire.

From

the time of Warren Hastings

governorship

of

Governor-general

Lord
of

Hardinge, each

our

done something towards

it

down

Indian

this

to the

successive

possessions

has

good work; and though

has been one of time and caution, acts of pro-

hibiti(m have been yearly

made more

stringent, as

previous laws proved insufficient to meet the evil

aud many native princes have now voluntarily come

forward to aid our present government in carrying
out

its

good intentions.

Proclamations have recently been issued by the

BACK BAY.
Benfjal

grovernment,

statin jr,

217
no

tliat

fewer than

twenty- three princes and chiefs have been induced

to abolish the horrible custom,

throughout their dominions.

infanticide,

ruler of

Jamoo

example

is

female

it,

The Sikh

has, unsolicited, followed their noble

and the Nizam of Hyderabad has issued

a mandate to the same

there

and with

Truly in

effect.

matter of rejoicing.

If

all

this

England had done

nothing more than this for the good of her Indian

possessions,

work

would have accomplished a great

she

seeing that

it

was computed

that,

at

one

time, from forty to fifty thousand females annually

sacrificed themselves to the flames,

and vain

idea, that

under the foolish

by so doing they would be per-

mitted to enjoy Paradise with their husbands for

three core and fifty lacks of years, or about thirty
million and

fifty

thousand years.

were the promises held out

though

it

to

Such, I believe,

them by

their priests

has been denied that the Brahmins en-

couraged them in their self-immolation.

Back Bay,

to all appearance a beautiful

sheltered roadstead,
for shipping of

is unfit,

any burthen

and well-

as a place of anchorage,
;

the bottom of

it

being

covered with very dangerous rocks, which run out

in a sort of reef into the
this

open

sea.

Occasionally

bav has been the scene of some awful wrecks,

in consequence

of having

been

mistaken

in the

218

SHIPWRECKS.

Bombay harbour

night for

the two

bays being

separated only by a narrow strip of land,

" Old

mariners as

Woman's

known

or Colabah.

Island,"

The Donna Pascoa, and the Lord William

two noble
before

vessels,

my

to

Bentinckj

were wrecked here a short time

The south-west monsoon was

arrival.

raging at the time when one of them ran upon the

reef of rocks

and, expecting to go to pieces every

moment, they burnt a

rockets, in the

the shore.

hope of gaining some assistance from

While

in

this distressing position, the

Lord William Bentinck was making

harbour

and sent up

light in her bow,

and seeing

this light

Bombay

f<jr

burning on board the

ship ashore, and another in the light-house not far

off,

her captain became confused, and altered her

course a

little,

and, in consequence, struck upon a

The scene

bar at the entrance of the real harbour.

next morning was described to

but

many

me

as an awful one

of the passengers were saved.

pleasure of seeing a poor

little

girl

had the

who had been

washed out of the arms of her mother, and was

driven ashore^

alive,

upon the breast of a heaving

wave.

Colabah can now scarcely be called an

island, as

a splendid valade, built at a great expense, for the

accommodation of the

public, unites

southern point, with Bombay.

it,

at its

most

A ROMANCE OF REAL

melancholy and romantic story

Before

Colabah.

Bombay was

the valade alluded to.

it

219

LIFE.

is

told of

still

united to Colabah by

was often impossible, though

the distance was very trifling, to go from one island

to the other

without a boat

for,

during the

the tide, the sea rushed through this

rise of

little strait

great force and rapidity, although at

with

low water a

person might have walked across, I believe, without

wetting his

young

girl,

was on her road to pay a

faith,

who

feet.

resided in Colabah

hullock-gharry, just
place, she

when

Mohammedan

of the
visit to

some

natives,

and, having arrived in her

the tide was rising in this

thought that, as the water was not deep,

she might cross without danger, and ordered her

syce, or driver, to

stream.

many
nate,

He

urge the timid bullocks across the

did so

but before they had proceeded

yards, the animals

became

restive

and refused to go one way or another

gharry was upset, and the poor

girl,

obsti;

the

being thrown

was swept out

into the rapidly increasing current,

into

and

Back Bay.

This scene was witnessed, most fortunately, from

the Colabah side, by an Englishman,
this

moment been

his coat

was

off,

tide after the

his

own

life,

who had up

a passive spectator.

to

In an instant

and he was breasting the foaming

drowning

girl,

whom,

at the risk of

he succeeded in bringing safely to the

A SAD SEQUEL.

220

He

shore.

accompanied

home

her

Bombay,

to

where he received the thanks and benediction of her

parents.

Strange to say, but not more strange than true,

an attachment sprung up between the young English-

man and

the

Hindoo

from a watery grave

lady,

whom

he had rescued

and many were said to be the

private meetings that took place between the

lovers

unknown,
At

parents.

well

knew

of

course,

the

length,

the

to

two

unsuspecting

Englishman, though he

that his religion would be an insuperable

objection, determined to solicit from her father the

Mohammedan

girl's

and the haughty

hand

man

in marriage.

fair

be one of his people

The

He acknowledged

that

Englishman, but he never could

;

him depart

so he bade

in peace.

The Hindoo maiden

sequel was very sad.

disappeared.

did so,

of high caste at once indig-

nantly spurned his proposals.

he loved the

He

Rumours were

current,

in

Bombay,

that she had been privately murdered by her enraged

relatives

but I do not suppose

known what became

was ever certainly

of her, though the matter was

said to have been investigated

One

it

by those

in authority.

of rumour's hundred reports at length reached

the ears of our poor countryman,

not wisely, but too well

to bear

" the

who had "loved

shock was too great

he died suddenly, the victim of a broken

COLABAH.

The whole family of the maiden

heart.

island, in

them

221

consequence of the suspicion attached to

and so ended

the

left

this strange eventful history.

After hearing this story, I seldom passed over the

valade, without thinking of the poor

my own

and of
life

in the

who had

brother,

same way, before

had been made secure to

drowning

girl,

nearly lost his

dangerous place

this

travellers in all states of

the tide.

The small promontory of Colabah

connected with

Bombay by
do not

rocks, which, however,

the

sea,

in

rather

rise

light-house,

above the surface

On

which

its

rises

Bombay harbour

extreme point

is

erected a

one hundred and

fifty feet

may

above the level of the ocean, and

clear

weather, at

two miles into

a south-westerly direction, and

forms a sort of tongue between

and Back Bay.

naturally

a mass of whinstone

It runs out for about

of the waters.

is

be seen, in

the distance of seven

leagues from the coast.

or

eight

It is considered a healthy

place of residence, being freely exposed to the sea-

breeze

and

its

beauty

charming view which

it

is

commands on

consequence of these advantages,

it

all sides.

is

all

In

crowded by

English, Parsee, and Portuguese bungalows

are

by the

greatly enhanced

which

detached residences, surrounded by luxuriant

gardens, redolent of sweet flowers.

The walks

are

THE morning's glory.

222
very

cool,

there

is

battery,

being well shaded from the sun

a delightful drive through the island to the

which

is

The property
like

and

much

built near the light-house.

of this island belongs, principally,

of the property in Bombay, to Parsees

and a great number of the houses are rented

by English merchants, who

being able to

see,

rejoice

from their

solely

to live there

terraces, every vessel

that enters the harbour, and to catch the

first

glimpse

of the overland mail, the monthly bearer of joy or

sorrow, as she steams up to her anchorage off the

Apollo Bunda, and announces her arrival by the

cannon's mouth.

The boundary-hedges

are enriched by a charming

creeping plant, which bears a scarlet, and sometimes

a

rich

mazarine-blue,

When

pea-flower.

in

full

bloom, these plants add greatly to the beauty of the

compounds.

The " morning's

description of convolvulus,

glory,"

wraps

itself,

majestic
after

the

conclusion of the rainy season, round the palms, and

perfectly enchants

you by

its

exquisite colours, as

blossoms swing from the crowned top.

like

was

Bombay and many

others in

originally covered with

cocoa-palm and other

cleared

away

in

many

public buildings, roads,

trees,

places,

&c

its

its

This island,

neighbourhood,

dense forests of the

but they have been

to

make room

for

223

THE TAILOR WARBLER.

In one of the delicious compounds of Colabah^ I

had an opportunity of examining,

the nest of the "tailor warbler."
interesting

for the first time,

pair of these

birds had selected the large leaf of

little

a plant growing in a stand close to the porch of a

bungalow, and having curiously drawn the edges of

the

leaf,

three or four inches above the foot-stalk,

had

together,
position,
fibre

them

secured

effectually

by sewing them with some

thus

forming a cone, in

that

in

fine vegetable

which they had

deposited their nest, which was a beautiful specimen

of bird -architecture, composed chiefly of cotton-wool,

and of other

woven

soft

downy

materials, carefully inter-

The nest was not

together.

cealed, for a portion of its

to

hang over the

support to the

entirely con-

rim was so contrived as

and thus give additional

side,

when

fabric

occupied.

The

though thus confined, appeared to be healthy

instinct

had taught

with their

bills,

which nourished

little

its

tenants not to

when sewing
it.

These

it,

little

orders to avoid, as

much

for

wound

the large arteries

birds were carefully

protected by the lady of the house,

interest in their welfare

leaf,

who took

a great

and the servant had

strict

as possible, disturbing the

female, particularly during the process of incubation.

They succeeded,

to the joy of every one,

ticularly of myself, in bringing forth a

and par-

young family

CHEAP ARRACK.

224
but with the
tion, that

ill

fortune of

many

pets of this descrip-

have sought the protection of man, they did

not escape the prying eyes of a large Persian

One

which belonged to some old bachelor near.

morning a
and

my

and

fluttering

Alas

scampered

was

she

too

late

had

Puss

the grounds with one of the

off across

birds in her

was heard,

cause, ran into the

friend, suspecting the

garden.

young

terrible chirping

cat,

mouth

the remaining birds had

the leaf was broken, and

died from the

The

fall.

nest and leaf were dried and carefully preserved, as

furnishing a curiosity for friends at home.

Colabah has been selected as the

site for

a lunatic

asylum, and for barracks for the accommodation of

troops landing from England
soldiers are here a

chiefly,

because the

good deal out of the way of

temptation, as drinking cannot be followed up in this

small island, with the

them

in the fort

spirits are so

facilities

and new town.

which are

aff'orded

Arrack and other

cheap in India, that a

man who

has a

fancy for drinking, upon coming out to this country

is

pretty certain to

some of

fall

the other diseases peculiar to the East

in fact, the

number of deaths

this vice alone, thin our

great.

a victim to cholera, or to

am tempted

that,

and

resulting from

European regiments,

here to

make an

is

very

extract from

a report on this subject, addressed by Alexander

A CAUSE OF DISEASE.
Thom,

Esq., surgeon in her Majesty's 86th regiment,

Army Medical Board

to the

225

in

London.

After tracing some of the predisposing causes to

the fearful mortality that attended this

regiment,

which landed in Bombay during the wet season, July,

1842, and showing that forced marches, harassing
duty, encamping in tents, and vicissitudes of temperature, had, all

death, Mr.

and each, their share in the work of

Thom

proceeds as follows

" There

is

another undeniable, and almost incalculable predisposing cause of disease, alike

and other European

garrisons in India

mean

in

to say that

any other

it

in the

86th

and in other

this

the use of raw and ardent

While I admit the extent of

spirits.

not

corps, in

viz.,

common

was greater

this evil, I

do

in the 86th than

I have taken the trouble to

corps.

possess myself of information in figures on this subject,

which

satisfies

The

correct.

me, that what I state

soldiers

were allowed to obtain four

drams or Hots' of arrack,

when put
Tf a

man

together,

daily, the

is

course,

this,

considered so

do not

by too

common

in

his

regiment.
of this

who do not take two

Day by day this practice

many men, and permitted.'^
daily.

bottle.

he thinks himself

avail themselves

indulgence, but there are few

drams

amount of which,

about half a

does not exceed

temperate, and

Many, of

is

exactly

is

is

followed

CHOLERA AND

226

ITS VICTIMS.

These men, as we find from the report from

which I have made an

from cholera, in

sufferers

mean

case

visited

by

this

most

this fearful

it

cantonment

yet,

the chil-

all

Had

malady.

were equally

an

officer's

at Kurrachee, only

it

been,

liable to

compound

and night marches

well-ventilated bungalows

common

same atmospheric changes

and

one had a slight

and not one

cholera,

This he attributes to temperance

were subject, in

The

Efist.

out of forty-two ladies living

and doubtful attack of

fatigue

the

in every

while ladies had a total

in fact, scarcely

entirely escaped

in a

of

was

their wives next

as he observes, contagious,

attacks

though, he says, that he

scourge

officers still less

exemption from

its

to infer that inebriety

soldiers suffered

dren and

and other regiments,

this

to which Mr. Thorn alludes

does not

were the greatest

extract,

died.

to the absence of

to living in cool

and

seeing that these ladies

with the soldiers, to the

and that

was

certainly

not their sex which protected them, as the

soldiers'

it

wives suffered severely.

The East India Company have

erected,

on Cola-

bah, comfortal>le buildings, for the benefit of invalid

officers

who may

require sea air

or sea bathing.

These buildings are called the " sick bungalows,"

and are enclosed

in a spacious

the principal entrance

is

compound.

a jack- tree,

much

Close to
decayed,

227

BEAUTIFUL SHELLS.

and supposed to be one of the oldest

standing on any of these

trees

About

islands.

now-

half

mile to the south of the sick bungalow, and adjoin-

ing

parade-ground,

the

chapel,

where the

but

who wish

all

bring their

own

a neat

is

English service
to

thatched

little

performed;

is

avail themselves

of

it

must

not contain any

chairs, as it does

I went two or three times, and heard pleasing

seats.

discourses from the Rev. Mr. Pigot, the gentleman

who

usually officiates there.

few old

domed

roofs

Mohammedan tombs
among

still

the cocoa-nut trees

rear their

and some

very ancient Portuguese houses, crumbling into ruins,

recall to

memory

the wealthy merchants

who once

occupied these islands, and the heavily-laden Spanish

galleons that were

wont

to sail

from these shores,

to enrich the nobles of Spain, or to gild the palaces

of the Venetians.

The

sea-shore

ramble of mine

here was

and the

favourite

morning

collecting of the variety

of beautiful shells, which here abound, afforded

amusement and

instruction.

The

thrown up in heaps by the tide

me

shells are literally

;

though the large

leopard-cowrie was the only one of any size which

I

met

There were numbers of the acorn,

variegated cockle, spiral, snail, and

spine,
shells

here.

madripores,

scipio

or

cuttle-fish

bivalve

bones,

THE LAND-CRAB.

228

many

pumice-stone, and
tions, that enabled

me

here by the natives

they
thing

to

many
money

not worth a cowrie,

is

Cowries

expression.

At

places.

vary

is

sought after

are

parts of India

for in

box in

a good-sized

fill

current for

pass

still

interesting marine produc-

The small cowries

a few days.

and to say a

common

value

in

in

bazaar

different

Calcutta

4 cowries are equal to 1 gunda.

20 gundas

32 pons

1 current rupee, or

pon.

2560 cowries.

curious species of land-crab infested the shores

of Colabah.

I fancy these crabs must have been

the occypodeSf or swift- footed crab, of the naturalist

if not,

they well

might be seen
ing,

deserved the name.

at a time, in the

Hundreds

morning and even-

hunting about for any sray food that the sea

or the fisherman might have

they ran

with

incredible

left.

When

disturbed,

swiftness, holding high

above their bodies two extended claws, which they

would knock together with a singular sound, as

to intimidate their enemies.

As they ran

if

into holes

which they had formed in the bank, that gently

shelved

down

to the shore,

used sometimes to

perplex them, by placing a stone over the entrance

of

their holes,

and giving chase to the excluded

229

BISHOP HEBER.
owner.

Upon

against

him, he

finding that his

if

then he would start

in his road.

If

it

closed

remain stationary for a

would

second or two, as

own door was

determining what to do next

off,

and bolt down the

first

hole

chanced to be already occupied,

the lawful tenant and the intruder soon re-appeared

upon the

and a

surface,

The body

of these

fierce fight ensued.

curious and amusing crabs,

which are of a light brown colour, and much about

the same

size,

about an inch long, and almost

is

spherical in shape.

They

have, beside their claws,

four delicate long legs on each side, each

a sort of hook.

The claws

are small

armed with

and long, and

capable of grasping and carrying firmly a very large

substance.
like those

The eyes
of the

protuberant and

are

common

horny,

salt-water crab.

inclined to think, that these

crabs

are

am

the same

which Bishop Heber met with near Poonah, and

which are thus described by him
"

The

plain of

Poonah

is

very bare of trees

and

though there are some gardens immediately around

the city, yet as both these and the city itself are in
a small hollow on the banks of the river Moolah,

they are not sufiiciently conspicuous to interrupt the

general character of nakedness in the picture, any

more than the few young

trees

and ornamental

shrubs with which the bungalows of the cantonment

OBSERVATIONS ON CRABS.

230

The

are intermingled.
feature

is

and most pleasing

principal

a small insulated

bill,

immediately over

the town, with the temple of the goddess Parvati

on
it,

its

summit, and a large tank (which, when I saw

was nearly

round

dry), at its base.

this tank,

All the grass-land

and generally through the Deccan,

swarms with a small

the ground, and

land-crab, which burrows in

runs with

considerable swiftness,

even when encumbered with a bundle of food almost

This food

as big as itself
stalks of rice

as

and

is

amusing

it is

grass, or the green

to see

them

sitting

were upright, to cut their hay with their sharp

it

pincers,

and then waddling

off

with their sheaf to

their holes, as quickly as their sidelong pace

will

carry them."

As

it

commonly supposed

has been

that

all

land-

crabs retire at certain seasons of the year to the

sea-side

to

deposit their eggs in salt water,

Mr.

Broderip has made an interesting observation respecting the land-crabs spoken of by Bishop Heber.

In the fourth volume of the Zoological Journal, he

says, that "

when we

Poonah, and read

tank,

we may

of

call to

mind

the position of

the neighbouring river and

feel inclined to

ask whether the river

or the tank might not be the scene of ovipositing

and he adds, that "it

may

is

not improbable that there

be a race of land-crabs appropriated to con-

231

PROVISION OF NATURE.

tinental or even insular situations, out of reach

the ocean, and that fresh water

may

of

be as necessary

to their re- production as sea- water is to the land-

crabs of the
thinks, "

is

West

Indies.

Such a supposition," he

in unison with the bountiful provisions of

Nature for the general diffusion of animal

life."

Bidding adieu to the land-crabs and to Colabah,

we

will

natives,

pations,

now

turn

our

attention to

who, in the way of their respective occuminister

so

may

bungalow.

an Englishman's

largely to

comfort and happiness in India

services

some of the

and whose useful

be said to be indispensable in every

232

SERVANTS IN INDIA.

CHAPTER

IX.

"I have known cases in which a kind-hearted woman

would have esteemed herself robbed of a privilege, if her

much as to
same woman

lover had asked any other person than herself so

mend

his glove ; yet is

it

not impossible for the

My sister, or
two years after marriage, to say
will do that for you.
I am too busy now,'
*

Mrs. Ellis's "

Man

is

Women

my

cousin,

of England."

every where a dependent creature, constantly

looking to others for support and assistance

I scarcely

know

and

of any country where he feels this

dependence more than in India.

Englishman, the climate alone

In the case of an

is sufficient to

produce

The domestic establishment of a wealthy

this effect.

merchant

is

not thought to be complete unless he

have eighteen or twenty paid servants in his employ.

This display of slaves, as they are absurdly called
(for a

man

cannot be a slave

who

is

master of his

DIVIDED INTO THREE CLASSES.

own

and

liberty,

services),

233

remunerated

properly

for

his

does not arise from any particular love of

having a great show of these people in your pay, but

simply from the circumstance that the individual

Nearly

services of each cannot be dispensed with.

half your servants are kept entirely as palanquin-

and men to look

bearers,

after

your horses and

carriages.

The servants who

reside

on your premises may

be divided into three distinct classes

Portuguese,

Mohammedans in order that one man

may be useful, when another's religion will not allow
him to be so. Each has his separate work allotted
and with this understanding they get on
to him
Hindoos, and

very well together.

will not clean

made

Your Mohammedan

servants

your boots, because the brushes are

of the bristles of the hateful animal

Hindoo servants

your

will not touch a plate or dish that

has been defiled by yourself or by a Portuguese

and hence

arises the necessity of

having servants of

different castes.

It

perhaps

was the custom formerly

of fashion

for a family

going out to India to take

with them a well-educated lady's-maid,

fulfil all

when

as a matter

who

could

the duties belonging to her station, and also,

necessary, assist

children.

in the instruction of your

This of course could only be accomplished

THE AYEH.

234

by a wealthy
and

and involved a serious outlay

family,

However,

responsibility.

was the fashion

it

and numbers of young females, often respectably

way out

connected, thus found their

to India.

If

they were good-looking, they seldom remained six

months unmarried

and even those

least favoured in

outward attractions soon found a partner and a home

amidst the hundreds of single old gentlemen, who

wanted housekeepers rather than wives, to complete

The con-

their happiness in their adopted country.

sequence of

all this

was, that English ladies got tired

Ayehs

of trying experiments which proved so costly.

came

into fashion,

Your

and ladies'-maids went

ayeh, or nurse, takes care of the children

in the day, and sleeps in the

She

at night.

is

mains with you

your

out.

little

ones

often a faithful creature, and re-

for
;

same room with them

life.

She

loves, to distraction,

and they return

bearing to be out of her sight.

it,

Her

by

scarcely ever

affection

becomes

so strong, that she will often relinquish every tie that

binds her to her native land, to follow you and the

objects

of

her

unconquerable

teaches your children

little

Indian songs and

many of which are very beautiful and

lous how soon they pick up from her
;

it

is

tales,

marvel-

the language

of the country, acting as they often do as

terpreters to their parents.

She

attachment.

little

The ayeh spends

all

in-

her

235

THE DOBIE.
spare money,

if

not prevented, in buying

missey

little

and massa Poonali and Surat toys and sweetmeats.

Her

hours are passed in the manufacture of

idle

elephants, lions,

and

tigers,

out of cloth, and stuffed

with saw-dust or sandal-wood powder, as rewards to

She can use her

the children for good behaviour.

needle, but prefers sitting

on the

floor

and teaching

your eldest boy how to make a turban out of his

father's red sash, or her

often the

entire

own

The ayeh has

sarree.

care of the Anglo-Indian family,

where the mother has been taken away from among

The one I have sketched here was

them.

so situated.

She was an old woman, and had grown grey and

The

wrinkled in her master's service.

ones

little

called her " mother," the elder children " ayeh dear,"

for she
is

had been a kind nurse to

all

me

a fine character," said the widowed Dr. Y. to

one day, " and the only person I have about

I can really trust."
shed,

now about
The

much

Many

that

who has nursed

to leave

behind

rising

family,

the

to sail for England.

djobie,

or washerman, you

a month,

according

wants of your family.

He

may engage

to the

number

away the

at so

or

the

comes to your bungalow

once a week, and brings with him his

carry

me

are the bitter tears often

when circumstances compel you

the poor ayeh,

to

" She

of them.

articles

own

servants

upon which he

is

to

THE WASHERMAN.

236

exercise his detergent art

them, which

list

Hiudostanee

he marking
list

a numerous one, there

at the

health

list

of

your musshall reads over to him in

you keeping another

him

you give him a

in his

it off

yourself.

own way, and

If your family

is

a mountain heap awaiting

is

end of the week

for the preservation of

demands, especially during the hot season,

perpetual change of raiment.

The dobie takes your belongings out about a mile

into the country, where there are

tanks provided

and

some

large washing-

having dipped them in a

after

description of bleaching liquid, he and his

work

to beat

them on

stones,

till

men

set to

cleansed.

fully

passed through fresh

After this process, they are

water, and spread out to dry in the sun

work

which occupies but a few minutes, and which makes

them snowy
which

is

white.

Of

course, the beating process,

carried on for

your garments

buttons

some

articles are

then taken

about in

fly

and hooks and eyes are

time, soon destroys

all

directions,

for ever separated.

home

to be ironed,

The

which

is

done by passing over them, in the usual manner, a

square brass box,
coal embers.

what

ladies

filled

with heated stones and char-

Such things
call

as require starching, or

" getting up," are dipped into a

curious farinaceous compound, called conjee, and pre-

pared from arrow-root and

rice.

Nor

is

the Indian

HIS HONESTY.

237

dobie ignorant of the mysteries of stiffening lace,

cambric,

his preparations

dead white

never puts any blue

only he

&c.,

water and everything

and,

in

which he exercises his

into

else

is

everything on

consequence,

soon turns yellow, like

skill

the lace once thought so valuable.

As

the destruction of buttons, &c.,

on a ruinous

scale, studs are

the substitution

is

carried on,

is

used in India wherever

They can be pur-

practicable.

chased from the native jewellers, finely executed in

gold, silver, or

It

is

Cambay

pebbles.

seldom that the dobie

apparel, for his eye soon

may

until this is the case,

you

expect to receive occasionally the property of

His caste has the reputation of honesty

others.

but,

becomes familiar with your

mark on them ; and

private

any of your

loses

as

Indian

a precautionary measure,
strongly

advises

you

the

always

old

Anglo-

to

have a

month's pay in hand, in case of accident.

remem-

ber one, and I think only one, instance of dishonesty

on the part of

this functionary

and

it

occurred in

the house in which I resided, and which contained a

number

of boarders.

Among

other things,

very valuable French lace was carried

recovered.
police,
island,

off,

some

and never

Information was quickly given to the

but the

man

of suds had decamped from the

taking away with

him a

large

amount of

THE PA WNEY- WALLAH.

238

The

property belonging to six other frmilies.

my

loss of

landlord was about twenty pounds.

There

is

Bombay a

manufactured in

kind of soap, which

particular

has the useful property of

enabling you to use sea-water for cleansing purposes

and which consequently

who seldom

fail

much

is

prized by sailors,

to lay in a stock of

it

their

for

voyage home.

The

bheestie,

or pawney-wcdlah

He

water

bungalow every morning

vxdlah, man), supplies your

with fresh water.

(^jKiwiiey,

brings

sheep sowed up, with one leg

it

in the skin

left

for a spout

of a
;

the

whole being secured by a leathern cord slung over

the

left

He

shoulder.

upon very

little

is

a gentleman

who

stands

ceremony with you, and hurries

from one room to another, to

the bath, chatties,

fill

and jugs, whether the apartments be occupied or

not.

His

so that

visits are

paid very early in the morning,

you may have the water

and he troubles himself not

are in bed or out of
rushes,

dripping

wet,

it

as cool as possible

at all as to

married

and

stream of the precious fluid

or single.

leaving
;

whether you

In he

behind him a

for his skins are always

bad ones, and out gushes the water into your

vessels,

and away he hurries to the next room.

Sometimes, indeed, you meet with a polite pawneywallah;

one who will give

a grunt outside your

HONI

door, as a sort of warning for

for

him

but this

accustomed to

is

this

you to be prepared

so rare, that

you soon become

sudden intrusion

newly arrived

persons

239

SOIT, ETC.

in

this

I have seen

country

furiously

enraged with these unceremonious water-purveyors,

on such occasions

but

a folly, as they never

is

it

can understand a word you say

but strangers,

who

do not know the language, always appear to forget

this.

The

bheestie

is

so

much

in the habit of find-

ing people in bed, that he seldom takes the trouble

to

If he

look at them.

he

rising,

may

many leaks from

in India
their

degree,

you are

give two or three grunts, but you

cannot detain him long

ladies

that

suspects

aware,

as

you

are,

his antiquated sheep-skin.

are obliged
fine

to conquer,

sensibilities

in

such

of the

English
in

some

matters.

Liable as they are to perpetual intrusions of this

kind, they soon

become

indifferent to the

customs

of the country, and appear practically to recognize

the good sense of

Edward

the Third's well-known

motto.

The pawney-wallah
must keep a sharp
alone in

an

articles

and

is

eye.

apartment
it

is

He

man upon whom you

is

not to be trusted

containing

small portable

the duty of the muscalche, or

table servant, to attend

your bungalow.

him

friend of

in

his

progress over

mine having occasion

A CASE OP THEFT.

240
to leave her

perceived,

room

few moments one morning,

for a

upon her

return, that a very attractive

Delhi brooch had been removed from her toilette-

The

table.

was immediately
been

in the

summoned

servants were

and suspicion

fixed uj)on the bheestie, who, having

room during her temporary

absence,

was

Of

ordered back, to give an account of himself.

course he most stoutly denied having touched the

missing

ground,

He

article.
calliig

terrestrial, to

himself on

upon a variety of gods,

prove his innocence.

was removed, and

bis

prostrated

his

slippers

celestial

and

His luimmerband
were shaken, and

mouth examined; but no brooch was

found

the

to be

and he was about to be dismissed as inno-

cent of the theft,

when an

accidental derangement

of Ins turban, in the hurry of departure, caused the

The man was

lost trinket to fall to the floor.

down

to the bazaar-master,

banished from the

district,

and punished
as a

sent

and was

warning to other

evil-doers.

It should, however, be considered, that, as a class,

water-carriers are often

tions,

through

the

exposed to great tempta-

culpable

viduals, or their servants

carelessness

civility

indi-

nor do they often take

advantage of their many opportunities of

Moreover, their

of

pilfering.

and willingness to oblige you

at all hours, together with their

low charges, render

THE DEEGIE.
them

favourites

and the grunting bheestie

for as regularly every

cold bath which

The
your

it is

or

dergie,

morning

He

executes

not watched, he

been

an

known

is

work

his

does

all

under your

beautifully,

but

which pattern, indeed,

apt to copy too exactly; having

to introduce a patch into the back of

disfigurement in

The dergie

man,

cross-legged

new uniform,

officer's

at daybreak, as the

the plain-sewing

must have a pattern to copy

if

looked

is

duty to replenish.

his

needlework, sitting

verandah.

241

is

in imitation of a similar

the garment sent

the comfort of

for a

ladies

all

pattern.

who, in their

foreign home, either will not, or cannot, ply the

needle for themselves.

Happy

who

who

is blest

of

condition
matters.

with a wife

the blame

the climate and the

heat

man

in India

will hefself look to the

and other similar

his cotton socks,

know

the

is

is

always thrown upon

and

it

would be un-

reasonable to be vefry irate, even though the dergie

sHicmld

have every week a basket or two

wristbands to patch up

collars or

yet, I

full

have often

thought,

home might have more charms than

appears

to

have to

the external world

How

often does a wife,

things at

home

it

Anglo-Indian lady, and

the
less

of

demands upon her

who was

speak

of

careful about

that

many

necessary care

which does not come under condemnation

time.

shake

THE NEEDLEMAN.

242
off

her responsibilities as

all

matters, and

fall

one

one day in Bombay,

a sad school for young wives, and a wretched

for

The
a

this idle country.

me

" India," said a lady to

is

domestic

respects

an easy prey to the indolent habits

and self-indulgent customs of

"

it

poor husbands."
dergie

and

of dress that he

satisfactorily

many

considered by good judges to be

needleman

beautiful

articles

is

is

make up

not able to

He

from a pattern.

are very few

there

honest, and, like

is

other natives of the East, easily instructed

and he works very quickly with an awkward ivory

thimble, pushing the needle

towards him.

He

a pin, but keeps

end of

it

from him,

never fixes his work by means of

it

on the

tightly between the soles of his feet.

He

the picture of contentment.

drawing-room

spreads out to keep

he

door,
all

of

it

ditty,

and looks

usually sits near

clean

and
;

tidy.

in

His turban

a hole in the

he deposits the wax with which he

liberally coats every needleful of the thread

uses.

The beating

him plenty
The

As

upon a mat, which he

converts into a pincushion

centre

by holding one

stretch,

he works, he hums some low-toned

your

instead of

which he

process already mentioned affords

of business.

dergie

is

I have

singularly good-tempered.

seen a lady box his ears

perhaps

in a

fit

of ab-

243

GHEE.
stractlon

for

affront very

He

doing his work amiss.

took the

good-humouredly, laughed, and appeared

amused by the onset of the wrathful

fair

one

merely

down

saying, as, with the greatest composure, he sat

Madam
me do it

again, to unpick the offending work, "

very

angry this time with poor dergie

over

again,

The

dergie,

who comes

of his

own

next time, hopes."

you about eight

to

the morning, brings with

full

madam

and please angry

but

him

o'clock in

his little brass chattee

particular drinking water,

and a few

parched grains of corn that have been fried in

*

Ghee

ghee;'''

a description of clarified butter daily used

is

by

the natives of Hindostan, and fonns an important article of

traffic

through a great part of Central India.

of preparing

Each

curious.

it is

own receipt but the one

new milk must be boiled
;

hours, after which

it is

The manner

district has, I believe, its

in

common

in

an earthen pot for two or three

use

allowed to stand

is

till

as follows.

quite cool,

The

when

added to assist in the coagulation.

Next day the whole of the milk will be found sufficiently
coagulated, when the upper part, to the depth of five or
six inches, is to be taken from the mass and put into a clean
a

little

sour milk

{tyre) is

earthen jar to be churned.

an hour, a

little

After churning for about half

boiling water

is

added, when, after a

little

more churning, the butter separates. The butter so collected is kept until it becomes rancid, when salt and betelleaf are added, and then it is potted for use.
Churning is
a very simple process in the East.

A split

bamboo

is

turned

and continued until

the butter forms. English families have their butter churned
in a bottle with a bamboo through the cork of it; the

round quickly by the hand

in the milk,

bottle is shaken with the milk for half an hour.

THE MEETA AND METRANE.

244

and on these viands he dines

humble

this

carefully

repast,

gathers

bouring tree
brush

one

at

he cleanses
little

his

forms the end of

it

into a sort of

with this instrument his pearly teeth.

self,

two or three times,

and again

sits

down upon
him

in

polishing

He

then taps

as if ])le8sing

him-

his mat, to pore over

his quiet work, until the sun goes

shadows of night bid

mouth most

branch from any neigh-

and passes another half hour

his forehead

After

o'clock.

down, and the

Such

depart.

is

the

native dergie, whose portrait I have sketched from

an old

friend,

family with
favourite,

The

who had worked

whom

or,

great

his caste.

services of the ineeta

female sweepers,

He was

I resided.

and a type of

for years for the

and

as they are

metraiie,

male and

commonly

called,

jarra-waUaJis, are indispensable in every bungalow.

few words respecting these poor despised people

may

not prove uninteresting to

excite our

my

readers.

They

sympathy, because they are poor, and

have been scouted for ages, nay, abhorred, in India,

in consequence of their supposed unfortunate birth

and lack of

caste.

Those who have interested them-

selves in the early history of

these people are

members

the Chandalas (for

of this tribe), maintain,

that they were originally the oflfspring of a Sudra

and a woman of the haughty Brahmin

caste.

Hence

THEIR DUTIES.
the

arose

intense dislike which

towards

entertain

them.

245
the Hindoos

all

They

are forbidden to

way

to associate with

reside in towns,

or in any

those of caste.

Their chief occupation consists in

carrying

away the dead to

burial;

in

removing

their place of burning or

daily accumulations

the

pestilential refuse matter, that poison the

to

most houses in the native

villages

of

approach

in digging

graves for the carcases of dead animals; in executing

criminals

disgusting

and, in fact, in the most menial and

occupations

man

which a

in

can

be

engaged.

The meeta

is

bungalow, and pays his

ing,

of hanger-on about your

a sort

first visit

morn-

early in the

armed with a couple of short-handled brushes,

made

out of the dried leaves of the plantain, or

date-palm

tree.

He

walks round to that side of

your dwelling usually occupied as sleeping-passages

by your domestics, and

if

they are not

astir,

he

announces his arrival by running the handle of his

brush up and

down

the Venetian shutters outside

thus producing a noise not

rattle,
all

and generally

unlike

effectual to the

a watchman's

awakening of

the sleepers in the neighbourhood.

He

sweeps

out your rooms in conjunction with the metrane

the latter

performing

all

the

lowest duties

chamber-maid; duties which your ayeh, from

of.

reli-

246

LOSING CASTE.

Having

gious motives, will not undertake.

matters within
stables,

your

house, they adjourn

finished

where they remove from your horses their

which

soiled litter, which, for similar reasons to those

actuated your

ay eh,

your horse-keepers

Your cooking-houses, and

touch.

to your bungalow, are also swept

which

the

to

your molly,

or

the approaches

this

gardener,

refuse to

in

being a duty

manner,

like

refuses to perform.

They bring with them a num-

ber of baskets,

receive

rub))ish

to

and

carry

away the

placing one on the top of another, and

carrying away a pillar of them on their heads

feat
is

which

it is

much
if
is

worth rising early to witness, for

marvellous to see

Your other

how

for they will lose caste, they say,

;

thought to be pollution of the very

them

to touch

vilest descrip-

They appear, from what I could

collect

respecting them, to be a quiet race of persons,

an honest livelihood in the

wealthy

from

houses of

who
the

though the small sum which they receive

each

employer per

day,

would

contempt of many a street-sweeper in

it

nicely they poise them.

seen even to converse with them

gain

servants avoid these poor people as

as possible

tion.

excite

the

England.

coarse muslin wTapper round the loins, and falling

as low as the knee, where it

small white turban,

flat

is

tucked up, and a

from carrying weights upon

THE GHARRY-WALLAH.
it,

247

costume worn by

constitute the whole of the

who add

these useful, thouofh despised people,

much

to the comfort of

John Bull and

so

his children

in India.

Your

gJiarry -wallah, or horse-keeper, lives in the

stable with

him,

you peep

if

family,

your horses

by the

in

and

it is

not unusual to find

at night, fast asleep

He

side of the Arabian.

with his

is

a hard-

working man, and has to attend you when out

If you are on horseback, he

visiting.

runs

after

you, and always carries a choivrie, or whisk of hairs,

in his hand, to keep the

flies off

run a carriage, you put him in

behind you on the step

livery,

and he

sits

These stable-men

generally speaking, an obstinate race

and

it

are,
is

matter to persuade them to undertake the

difficult

when

you

on such occasions he boasts

of being your syce, or groom.

care of

If

the animal.

more than one

Horses in India always

horse.

in stable have the hinder-legs tethered to a

stake driven into the ground

mented by

insects, that it is

for they are so tor-

dangerous to approach

them, unless secured in this manner.

As

the gharry-

wallah and your horses live upon the same sort of

corn (gram), you must see the latter fed yourself,

every day, to ensure

them getting

their proper allow-

ance, for

you can place no confidence

servants

when out

of your sight.

in these native

THE NATIVE GOLDSMITH.

248
If

you want to have an

or repaired, you send for the goldsmith to

put

He

to rights.

all

him

brings with

coal furnace, crucibles,

made

article of jewellery

and blow-pipe

his little char-

in fact every-

mend

thing necessary to melt, mould, or

come and

and

customary to supply yourself with the gold or

it is

silver,

may be requisite for such operations, and

which may be readily purchased the current coin of
which

the country answering very well, where there

is

procuring the precious metals.

difficulty in

any
It is

excessively amusing to watch the native goldsmith,

as he

is

seated by the

fire,

and going through the

various processes connected with the fusing, or per-

He

haps purifying, of the metals.

up

into a red heat with only a

which he uses very dexterously.

and complicated

are curious,

fans his embers

common punkah,
His working-tools

in their construction,

but appear to be well adapted for the purposes intended,

and

satisfy

originally designed

you

once that they were

at

by no common minds.

Not any

of the tools that I saw are copies of those

factured in

Birmingham or

Sheffield

manu-

which, seeing

that there are such large importations of these useful

instruments into India every year,

prising.

tools

to

The

may seem

sur-

native goldsmith prefers working with

of Indian

manufacture.

them from long

use,

He

accustomed

is

and the shape

is

religiously

v*.

-v"
249

HIS VALUABLE STOCK.

Thev

preserved.

suit the feeble grasp of his delicate

hand, and though he gets on slowly with some of

them, yet time

not to him so valuable as to our

is

He

industrious artizan.

atones very neatly

native jeweller

you

difficult.

and polisher of

also a cutter

is

set

copy, chains,

be not very

rings, or brooches, if the pattern

The

and can

make from a

or

skilful,

is

diamonds, though he cuts them unscientifically, from

the want of proper machinery.
cut diamonds are but

when they

and

before they are sent into the

kets and

all

will bear

it,

ladies,

numerous

who

class,

and

are re-cut

London market.

Trin-

much worn

sorts of jewellery being so

by the Indian

in

home

esteemed at

little

are valuable,

Consequently, Indian-

our artist makes one of a

carry on a very profitable trade

every town and village throughout Hindostan.

From him may be purchased

and though to
often, should

all

the most costly gems,

appearances a poor man, he will

you express a wish

to purchase

any of

these adult playthings, pull out from under his

a dirty

roll

of linen, in which he has folded an

of treasure that astonishes you,

view.

Here

is

gown

amount

when spread out

to

a bit of brown paper, with a diamon

wrapped up in

it,

that graced the

brow of some maharajah ;

worth

fifty

pounds

there a ruby
in another,

a portrait of some old king of Delhi, exquisitely

painted, and surrounded

by

brilliants

in another fold.

THE GOLDSMITH AT WORK.

250

fastened by a piu,

is

nificent emeralds.

gold

about

you examine
it

a nose ornament, set with

mag-

He

shows you a ring of plain

it,

and see nothing particular

he smiles, touches a spring

and

the ring

and forms a necklace two yards long,

falls to pieces,

that can be returned at pleasure into its originally

You

small compass.

perhaps want to buy a Trin-

chinopoly chain from him

he does not keep them,

but says, "he can make you one very

down

squats himself

in a corner of your

He

like."

room

un-

winds from his neck some hundred yards or so of

fine gold wire

cuts

into proper lengths

it

sixteen or eighteen ends together

bows himself
finished,
little

and

by the nimble

whom

man,

is,

pilfering.

it

is

few hours
chaiu

fingers of the

teapot-lid.
silver

when doing

very necessary to watch him closely,

like too

in a

ftistens

perhaps you had sent

you supply him with gold or

anything,
as he

your

and

your presence, with the

plaited

all

dusty, dirty

for to solder

If

into

many

of his countrymen, given to

remember a

case in point.

friend of

nine had some old epaulettes, which he wished to

ave melted down, just for the sake of the silver

which they contained, and with which he desired to

have some trinkets repaired.

was sent

for,

the same

of sketching here.

man

He

The

village jeweller

I have taken the liberty

set to

work

in the usual way,

AN INDIAN

251

TRICK.

and when the wire was in a fused

state,

he pulled

out a small phial containing a powerful acid, of

which he was just going to pour some into the

crucible,

him

when my

friend arrested his arm, and told

that the acid was quite unnecessary, and the trick

not a

new one

to him.

was a

little

surprised,

and

asked, after the jeweller's departure, for an explanation.

The

fact

is,

that

when

you, as they always will do,

these artists cannot rob

if possible, of

of the precious metal, they, as a last

into the molten
to boil over,

when they

mass a

little

apparently

acid,

a portion

chance,

pop

which causes

to their great sorrow

it

but

return home, they search the cinders into

which the gold or

silver

has run, and, in this cunning

way, rob you before your eyes.

252

SIR JAMSETJEE JEEJEBHOY.

CHAPTER

*'

As Eastern

And

X.

priests in giddy circles run,

turn their heads to imitate the sun."

Having made some

allusion to the Giaours, Guebres,

Sabrians, Parsees, or Fire-worsliippers

all

one and the same people

prove

uninteresting

to

those

it

for they are

may, perhaps, not

who

are

not very

familiar with the history of this strange sect, if T

notice one of these

introduce to their

remarkable

men, and add him to our

list

of national portraits.

But before we speak of

Sir

Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy

individually,
little

it

is

necessary that

journey into

among

its

Persia.

rose gardens, for

We

we should take a
shall

we must

not linger

pass over sandy

deserts and lofty mountains, as fast as our camels

will carry us, until

we

cross the borders of Farsistan,

and enter the Province of Irak Agemi. whence a

253

YEZD.

guide will conduct us to the caravan zera of Yezd,

and the

which we are in search.

city of

Yezd has long been

We

celebrated for

manufactures.

its

are delighted with its porcelain works,

home with

to carry

carpets, so

us some of those soft rugs and

much sought

after

Rich

notice,

as

silks

by the luxurious Turks,

The hand- loom

to supply their harems.

work.

and long

and showy cottons

we ramble through

the

busy at

is

our

attract

close

and

ventilated bazaars, and foreign merchants, in

ill-

odd

costumes, crowd around us, and dispute the footpath

with

"

us.

Dog

way out

ing his

of an infidel," cries one, as, elbowof an

opium shop, he

of scented tobacco-smoke in our face.

Giaour," says

that's

curiosity.

short,

man, armed with a

the shoulder, and

Yezd
*

-y^

and

if

another.

We

puffs a cloud

"

By

Allah,

have excited

plump, animal-looking Mussullittle

brief authority, taps us

demands our business

we cannot

" The district of Yezd

is,

satisfactorily

somewhat

on

in the city of

prove to him

inconsistently, in a

geographical point of view, considered as belonging to Irak,

for

it

assuredly makes part of Khorasan.

It is

an

oasis in

the vast desert which reaches from the Elburz to Kerman,

The city is built

by hills; but a
several

in a large

sandy plain nearly encompassed

thinly-inhabited tract in which there are

respectable towns and villages extending in the

from which it lies due east. In spite of

the dryness of the soil and climate, the territory produces

direction of Ispahan,

254
that

BLACK MAIL.

we

are neither Giaour nor Guebre, he

upon our paying him

from

once a sum of money varying

five to fifty rupees, just as

ability to

Such

comply with

is

way

the

medans levy

who

at

his

in

insists

he

may

estimate our

demands.

which these hated Moham-

their black mail

upon

all

poor pilgrims

annually resort hither to pay their vows at the

shrine of one

whom

they detest, and whose

become a by-word among them.

The

name has

love of gain,

however, has long got the better of their religious

scruples
first

and the

fire,

believers,

serve

is

said to have

kindled in the temple of Yezd, and which

with costly wood

good

which Zoroaster

who

fruits, silk,

more than

night

is

fed

and day, by a few un-

are permitted to live in the city and

and com, but not enough of the

forty days' consumption.

latter to

Yezd, with

all

among the most prosperous cities in

these disadvantages,
Persia and this it owes to its commerce and manufactures.
is

one of the great entrepots between east and west.

Caravans from Cabul, Cashmere, Bokhara, Herat, Mushed,
It

is

Kerman, are met by merchants from Ispahan, Shiraz, Cashan,

Teheran, and an immense interchange of commodities takes
On the other hand, its manufactiu-es of silk and
place.
other stuffs, its felts, sugiu-candy and sweet-meats, command
a ready market everywhere. The population was stated to
Captain Christie to be about 50,000 souls, and among them
are 300 families of Guebres, or followers of Zoroaster, an

industrious and patient race,

who

in spite of a

heavy taxation

turn their attention busily to trade and agriculture."

Travels in Khorasan.

255

SECTS OF FIRE-WORSHIPPERS.

keep

up,

it

continues to blaze in spite of per-

still

In process of time these Fire-worshippers

secution.

became

dispersed

tyranny

is

said

friendless

and

people

have

to

Mohammedan

and

out

driven

thousands,

destitute, into foreign lands.

Num-

bers of these poor exiles found a shelter in Guzerat.

Some were
and

sold as slaves to different Indian princes

after the death of their leader

they were scattered

to the four winds of heaven.

Wherever they are now met with

they

tell

sacred

in Hindostan,

you that they brought with them some of the

fire

that burns in one of Zoroaster's beloved

Atishgahs at Yezd

new home they

that in their

have erected a temple for

its

reception and honour

that DasturSj or priests, watch over

and that no

is

permitted to

it

one of a faith different from theirs

Here, however, as else-

enter the sacred building.

where, the uneasy spirit of dissent has broken the

tender

bound

ties

of kindred and country which originally

this persecuted sect together

worshippers
divided into

of India

now

are

many jarring

association,

many

them,

and the Fire-

divided

and sub-

parties.

The Rusmiz, not content with

Zoroaster taught

the doctrines which

have imbibed, from long

of the

their

Hindoo

neighbours.

whom

curiosity

tempted at

popular superstitions of

Thus,
first

young

people,

to join as spectators,

256

SUN-WORSHIP FORBIDDEN.

the gaudy and glittering ceremonials of Brahmanism,

grew up

in time converts to

The Cadmiz alone boast

it.

of having preserved pure

the faith of their forefathers.

say, that their religion

worship of the

Bombay

told

for that he

me

knew

is

unnecessary to

has sunk to an idolatrous

and sun

fire

It

though a Parsee in

that he did not worship the sun

to be folly

but as the sun was the

most glorious thing which the Great

upon

created, he fixed his eyes

Zendavista

When

I told

for he

him

knew

that

God was

God was behind

man

to

and

bow

stars,

do>vn and

and

all

that nothing could displease

more than such worship^he was

on,

silent

the

Him

so I went

told him, that one of the great objects

land and other christian

it.

everywhere, and that

worship the sun, and moon, and

;

had

Spirit

as he repeated his

it

that

he had especially forbidden

host of heaven

Eng-

countries had in view in

sending out missionaries to India, was to persuade

the

Hindoo

to forsake the worship of blocks of

wood

and stone.
Here, he interrupted

me

and

said in an excited

manner, that the Hindoos were a horrid and bad

me

errors,

and

appeared thankful that he was not one of them.

So

people

pointed out to

all

their

prone are we to see the defects of our fellow-creatures,

while

we

shut our eyes to our own.

A PUZZLING QUESTION.
I was about to remind

him

257

of the sacred

fire

which

he himself worshipped in the temple, when a sudden

thought seemed to flash across his mind.

**

You

he observed, " that you send out

say,"

wood

Padres to teach the Hindoos not to pray to

how is it then, you have so many in

England who worship a figure in their temples, just

and stone

as the Portuguese do here

the

name they

give

it,

many

they have so

but I cannot remember

or that of the

woman, of whom

and about

pictures,

whom

they

talk so much."

Nesserwanjee had here put to

me

a rather difficult

question.

my

reader with the answer which

I gave to his queries.

I was at that time, like

I will not detain

himself, very young,

not satisfy him

for I

to discuss with one

of

God and

wanjee

and I can remember that I did

found

it

who was

a topic very difficult

ignorant of the

of the plan of salvation.

me

he came to see

Poor Nesser-

almost every evening

to learn, as he said, all about the English,

customs of
a

my

piano-forte

lived in the

native land

that belonged

same house

in

Word

and the

and to practise upon

to

which I

gentleman who
resided,

and who

had, to gratify and encourage native talent, kindly

taught

He had

him music.

mogree flowers

for

me

always a bunch of

in the top of his turban, for

S

258

EVIL SPIRITS.

knew

he

handsome

his fine

my

they would please me.

still

see

face full of smiles as he entered

room, curious to find out

''to talk a little

I think I

He was

with him."
cotton

I could spare time

if

robe

a dandy in his

worn

by the

dress; for

the

Parsees, he

had substituted one made of exquisitely

fine

cashmere

changed
little

for

usually

the ordinary white socks had been

open-worked silk-stockings, and the

had been

turned-up slippers

heavy American shoes

and

cast

aside

this was, as

all

j)retty

he

for
said,

in order to be " like the English."

The Hindoos say

that the Parsees of India are

outcasts of Persia, but this they indignantly deny,

though

it is

supposed that

many

of their

new

year,

phet's birth.

of their dead.
frame,
rtiehs,

if

them were driven

The 29th of September

out in the eighth century.

they celebrate in

of

Bombay,

commencement

as the

and the day

also

of their pro-

They have a curious way

The body

of disposing

carried out

is

on an iron

a poor person, to one of the public dock-

or temples of silence, the bearers of the corpse

having
cord, to
delight,

their shoulders tied

scare

away the

they say, to

passage to the tomb.

duty when a Parsee

is

together by a sacred

gins,

or evil spirits,

who

about the dead on their

flit

dog performs the same

dying

He

sits

in the sick

chamber, and thus, by his presence, scares away the

ARTICLES OF FAITH.

The " temples

wicked demons from the bed.

silence " are large cylindrical
feet high, built of solid

They

top.

25D

buildings, twenty-six

masonry, and open at the

some miles from the

are

of

Fort

in

Bombay, and many of the wealthy Guebres have

private temples of their own.

down from

Inclined planes slope

the walls of the interior, on which are

deposited the bodies, loosely wrapped in a linen gar-

ment

and

as the bones accumulate, they are

thrown

into a well at the bottom, which has a communication

by a subterranean

passage,

creep in and remove

The bodies

to

enable a person to

them when the

pit is too full.

so exposed are soon torn to pieces

fowls of the

happy omen

and

air,

is

it

the right eye

if

by the

in Persia considered a
is

devoured

first

by the

carrion vulture.

The Parsees
habitants,

known

is

as

Ormuzd,

believe that our earth, with its in-

under the control of the ruling

Oramanes and Arimanes.

as he

sometimes

is

the originator of

all

that

is

called, is

Oramanes, or
worshipped as

good and pure, in heaven

and earth; while Arimanes, or Ahriman,

to be continually
evil.

is

rituals of devotion, the resurrection

of the

fifty

human

is

one of their
is

confidently

years will be occupied in

race.

thought

engaged in the dissemination of

In the Zendavista, which

spoken of;

spirits

judgment

Fire, earth, air, water, are each

SACRED

260

FIRE.

up the portion they possess of the body

to yield

of man, which, they say, as soon as he dies, enters

into these elements

the soul will be re-united to

its

Hom, and

earthly body, and the juice of the plant

the milk of a certain bull, will recall the wandering

spirit to its

home, and man

throughout

all eternity.

then live again, and

will

Wicked men

have,

undergo a sort of purgatory

doctrine, to

suffering for three thousand years

when

by

their

horrible

Ormuzd

have mercy on them, and permit them to enter

will

Ahriman, with

into heaven.
in the

his

all

end be converted, and worship,

demons,

will

as ministering

angels, the Great Spirit.

Strictly
for
fire

worshipping

and

temple,

in.

light, air

adoration
is

Parsees have no temples

speaking, the

Their temple

The
As

make an improper

once lighted in a house

will

a burning house.
I

remember a

some

said.

use of

They

Parsee,

"My

Many

and

or

fire-

it.

is

worshipped, they

For

this reason,

never extinguished,

now, I believe, put out the flames of

will not use fire-arms

whom I had
give me fire to

from

cheroots, refusing to

of them.

atishgah,

fire is

never

though they

sacred flame from

only to protect the

extinction or defilement.

fire

the world

and water, have each a peculiar

to them.

paid

is

religion will not

of the devout

and

purchased
light

one

permit me," he

Parsees, though they

INTELLIGENCE OF THE PARSEES.

261

have both money and inclination to travel by

and

countries, will not

visit foreign

do

sea,

fearing

so,

they should, in a long voyage, pollute the waters

they hold so sacred.

used by them in

holy water, called zor,

driving away bad

is

and a

spirits,

drop of the venerated juice already spoken of as

restoring

to

life

man,

is

put into the mouth of the

new-born babe, and of the dying man, to cleanse

them from

all

impurities.

The

people with the sacred cord and

Ahriman,

solemn

and interesting ceremonies.

there

superstition

one of their

most

Altogether,

mixed up with

their

though we find that

chastity, honesty, truth,

charity, are required of

them, and practised by

religion,

and

much

is

perhaps

a shield

shirt, as

against

is

young

investiture of

them.

Viewing

the

Fire-worshippers

as

body,

we

cannot but look upon them as an intelligent, and

even enlightened people, when compared

Hindoos.
if

It

with the

may be thought presumption

in

me,

not in any man, to venture to predict respecting

any particular

sect in India, that before

have rolled by,

it

will

be

induced,

preaching of the gospel, to embrace

yet, I

many

years

through the
Christianity

cannot but think, from what I have seen of

the Parsees, and of the great anxiety which they

have shown to educate their sons, and to have them

262

PARSEE CONVERTS.

taught to read and write the English language, that

the day

is

not far distant when their sacred

have died out,

will

now

ing, as they

they will turn

and

from

will

of look-

do, to the genii of the elements

and to the sun as

for protection,

Creator,

and when, instead

fires

the

their mediator,

creature

visible

to

the

look up only to Jesus, the sole

Mediator between God and man.

gentleman in Bombay, who had the instruction

of several Parsee children, told me, that

astonishing

how soon

write the English

it

was

really

they were taught to read and

language

and that he

would

sooner teach half a dozen of these boys, than one

heav)'

European

island, there

lad.

During

my

residence on that

were two Parsee youths who had been

induced to embrace Christianity, in Bombay, through

the well-directed exertions

of

one of the Scotch

missionaries; but so bitter were the Fire-worshippers

against them, that their friends had driven

them

out,

and had denied them the common necessaries of

life.

this

It

was stated

to me, that in consequence of

unexpected animosity, the East India Company

had not only to protect but

were two

fine

young men

to support them.

they regularly attended

the Scotch Church, and were, to

interest.

Some

They

all,

objects of great

of their enemies said, that they had

only changed their religion to please those

who had

A LIBERAL
it

in their

power

FIRE- WORSHIPPER,

263

good

situations,

to procure tliem

but T have every reason to suppose that such was

not the case.

With

respect to Zoroaster, the founder or promul-

gator of the Parsee religion, and the author of the

Zendavista, but

little

is

Some

known.

was a king of Bactria, and devoted

his

restorer

of

first

whole

to

life

and reformer of the ancient

To M. du Perron

faith of Persia.

he

Others, that he

the study of magic and astronomy.

was simply the

state that

drawing out from

its

is

due the honour

obscurity and giving to

the world, a translation of the Zendavista, a

that had been carefully concealed
consists,

their

as

traditions

by the

assert,

work

Parsees.

It

of twenty-one

nosks or books, of which only one, the Vendidad,

preserved entire.

The Abbe Foucher remarks,

the Zendavista " bears exactly the

is

that

same reference to

the books of Zoroaster, that the Eomisli missals and

do to the Bible."

breviaries

Having

much about the

we will now turn our

said thus

in general,

Fire-worshippers
attention to Sir

Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, the patriotic and charitable

Parsee, who,

much

for the

by

his liberal contributions, has

improvement of the island of Bombay

and whose munificent

Bombay

done so

gift

of

500 towards

the

subscription for the relief of the suffering

Irish in Ireland, during the potato famine of 1847,

A PARSEE GENTLEMAN KNIGHTED.

264
has,

no doubt, made his name familiar in England.

This striking instance of Oriental liberality

well

is

worthy of being recorded, and requires no comment

from

me

months

the noble action speaks for

ago, at the opening of the

Bombay,

itself.

few

Grand College

in

Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy intimated, that he

had lodged with government the sum of

which interest at six per

60

about

cent,

<1

000, on

would be allowed, or

per annum, for assisting, in the purchase

of books and instruments, the Alumni,

distinguished themselves
at a like interest,

would

and 500

afford

30

who had

beside, which,

per annum, for

the purchase of prizes for the pupils while in college.

"These stimulants,"

Bombay
above,

**

remarks

paper, from which I

the

Editor of the

have extracted the

to intellectual exertion, and this culture of

general knowledge, are the best auxiliaries in liberating the

mind from

the bondage of superstition,

by the greatest but most

and in

establishing,

sistible

means, the truths of a Christian and rational

irre-

religion."

I think

it

was

in the year 1844, that her present

Majesty conferred the honour of knighthood upon

Sir Jamsetjee, after he had founded the college that

bears his

mark

name

in

Bombay.

This was a peculiar

of the high estimation in which he

England

was held

in

and there were few in Bombay, who, when

2Q5

PROriTABLE TRADE IN OPIUM.

the news arrived, did not rejoice, and compliment Sir

Jamsetjee in no measured terms.

It is true, that his

Parsee brethren on the island were a

to understand

what the addition of

at a loss

little

aS'iV,

before their

kinsman's name, had to do with his elevation

they were naturally very curious to

money a "Sir" would

know how much

from the kind and

receive

good Queen of England

and

but they had

it

all

ex-

plained to them in time, and Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeeb-

hoy

is

said to wear his honours as a fine old Parsee

gentleman should do.

and

his

son

merchants and shipowners in

Cursetjee

are

Bombay.

From what

rich

Sir Jamsetjee

my

I could learn during

dence on that island, the bulk of the

resi-

immense

father's

wealth had been made in the opium-trade with China,

before the " celestial ports" were so effectually opened

by the English.

Sir Jamsetjee has a prepossessing

He

and benevolent countenance.

stature,

and a

little

inclined

to

is

of moderate

corpulency.

dresses in the simple costume of his people,

fully preserves in its exact

He

and care-

shape the high card-board

turban that so distinguishes the Parsees from any

other race in India, while

it

adds so

much

to their

height.

Of an
his

evening. Sir Jamsetjee

family driving

ade, in a

may be

seen with

about the fashionable esplan-

handsome carriage

built in

London,

after

2GG

DISASTERS IN AFFGHANIts-Jj^?-

the model of one said to be a favourite with

Her

His splendid horses quite attract atten-

Majesty.

on being the

tion, for the Parsees pride themselves

best judges on the island of this noble animal, and

on

their skill in horsemanship.

In 1840, General Sir John Keane,

up the Cabul gate

of Ghuznee,

blowing

after

and planting the

on the battlements of that

British colours

citadel,

returned from Affghanistan by Bombay, on his road

to England, to be raised to the peerage,

by the

title

of Baron Keane of Ghuznee and Cappoquin, with a

pension of

2000

a-year.

Every one

at this

time

was speaking of the glorious successes of our army

dreaming of the dreadful tragedy

in the East, little

that was shortly to be enacted,

when thousands

of

our brave troops were, with their famished and

frozen leaders, to perish horribly in the Bolan Pass,

mown down

like

grass

before the

scythe

of the

frantic Affghans.
It
us,

may

appear a

little

foreign to the subject before

but I cannot refrain from (|Uoting a passage from

House of Commons

Sir Ilobert Peel's speech in the

touching this deplorable event.

"

When had you

before," asked the right honourable baronet, " in the

whole cycle of your history, any disaster

which has befallen you in Affghanistan

which I admit

is

not irreparable

like that

a disaster

disaster

which I

SIR jamsetjee's
will be

trust

entertainment.

speedily repaired

by the

267
and

spirit

vigour of your councils, and by the gallant exertions

of your armies

but when did you ever read in the

History of England of such wholesale slaughter as

that which has

befallen

your

forces,

and which a

private individual reports in every newspaper

is

what that individual writes

'

My

has been

life

am

spared in a most wonderful manner, and I

only European

Two

who has escaped from

Here

the

the Cabul army.

natives only have reached this place (Jellalabad),

making with myself

three persons out of an

army

of

thirteen thousand.

Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, thinking that he

show

his satisfaction at our apparent conquests,

must
took

advantage of Sir John Keane's temporary sojourn in

Bombay,

to issue cards of invitation to that officer,

his

and numbers of the English resident on the

staff,

island, to a splendid ball

honour of our great

which he intended giving in

victory.

The

invitation

accepted, and a magnificent entertainment

consequence.

in

was the

Every luxury that wealth could pur-

chase loaded the tables on this occasion.

man

was

Bombay

gentle-

told me, that in the course of this

evening's festivities, a great bustle and stir was ob-

served

among

the Parsee friends of the family

had assembled to witness the ceremonies.

much whispering and laughing going

on,

who

There was

and they

A BOLD STROKE.

268

had grouped themselves together in

little

companies

near the principal entrance to the ball-room, as

if

expecting to see something very droll or very curious

make

its

entrance.

These circumstances, of course,

attracted the attention of the English, and one of the

officers

jokingly hinted, that perhaps a tame tiger

was to be introduced
friend

their

for

amusement.

thought, that perhaps Sir John

My

Keane was

about to be presented with some substantial remembrance of the worthy Parsee Knight's approval of
his late gallant conduct as

an

officer.

The company,

however, was not long kept in a state of suspense.

Sir Jamsetjee had left the
to re-enter

and followed by

more

The

his

sons

surprise of

and

their

wives

those present can

easily conceived than described.

first occasion

his sons, but

with his wife leaning upon his ann,

it

daughters.

room with

It

and
be

was the

on which a Parsee lady had ever been

seen in public.
Sir Jamsetjee

had long had his doubts respecting

the justice of the selfish custom which debarred the

ladies of his

and other Parsee establishments from

enjoying themselves like rational creatures.

He had

gone to a great expense in giving his daughters a

good English education, and he determined upon

occasion,

and thenceforward,

to

show

his

this

contempt

for such absurd nonsense as the supposed losing of

269

ITS RECEPTION.
caste or rank,

by allowing Parsee

ladies to associate

He

with persons of a different faith from his own.

was thus

opinions held
say,

up

practically acting

among

to one of the

the Parsees

" for

common

God," they

" delights in the happiness of his creatures ;"

and they hold

meritorious to enjoy the best of

it

The breaking through,

everything they can obtain.

on the part of Sir Jamsetjee's family, of long-established customs so

common

serious conversation

among

Bombay, and constituted

among

the

fire- worshippers

fully a nine-days'

of

wonder

must be a

the ultra-liberal Parsee

out of his reason

Icusti,

the

Hindoo and Mohammedan community.

Some thought
his

was a subject of

in India,

others suspected that he had lost

or sacred girdle

as to his having

little

now

course, the evil one

and

all

were unanimous

only one soul, and that, of

and they

were led away by his bad

pitied his family,

who

Sir Jamsetjee,

spirit.

however, soon afterwards appeased their anger, and

quieted their fears as to his sauity, by building a

Fire Temple on the island at his

own

good example in allowing the Parsee

enjoyment of sweet

liberty,

say, followed out, as

he hoped

Parsee families.

The Parsee

was
it

expense.

new
His

ladies their full

not, I

am

might

be, in other

sorry to

ladies still continue to

be shut up in their houses, though

husbands have acknowledged to

me

many

of their

the folly of the

270

ARTISANS AT WORK.

custom

owning

of strangers

that

little

it

The

residence.

Row, Fort George.

it

in the eyes

better than Hindoos.

Sir Jamsetjee has a

town

made them appear

handsome country

as well as a

latter is situated in

Rampart

had the pleasure of going over

one day in company with a few friends, who were

particularly desirous to see, if possible,

who were

branches of the family,

extremely

fair

and

reported to be

was a very large

It

beautiful.

some female

square building, enclosed in front, and separated from

the street by a court-yard.
of steps

we

entered the

floor plastered

with

hung round with

After ascending a flight

hall,

fine

a good room, with the

chunam.

portraits of

some

The

celebrated

darins, well executed in water-colours,

We

artists.

walls were

Man-

by Chinese

were rather amused at the domestic

arrangements of this apartment, and the good use

made

of

it.

Seated upon mats in the

posture, were all

the

Oriental

mechanics employed by the

family, busily engaged in their different occupations.

In one corner was a shoemaker cutting out leather

of various colours for slippers.

In another was a

dergie, embroidering pretty little sculars, or under-

dresses for children,

muslin.

by running

lace-patterns into the

A harness-maker was finishing

and another man was giving

off"

a saddle

to palanquins a fresh

coat of varnish, in anticipation of the rainy season.

THE JEWEL-ROOM.
Indeed,

it

271

was quite evident from what we saw

here,

that Sir Jamsetjee's large family afforded constant

employment

numbers of these

to

After inspecting every

conductor,

who was

people.

worthy of

trifle

notice,

our

storekeeper, and,

Parsee

think, a connection of the family, conducted us to the

foot of a long staircase, where there was a strong

stone-built room,

having a low door sunk deep in

As

the massive masonry.

iron bands, and

secured

this

door was bound with

by three huge padlocks

(Brahmas, no doubt), our curiosity was a

cited to learn

little

what could possibly be kept

requiring such precautions for

Merwanjee told

us, that the

its safe

inside,

custody;

room being

ex-

when

fire-proof, all

the plate and jewels were deposited here every night;

and

thief-proof, too,

thought

I,

as

we ascended

the

staircase that terminated in a series of long passages

covered

over

with fine Manilla

passages or promenades

(for, in

Eastern houses, they

are used as such) were well lighted

like

These

matting.

by open spaces

windows without panes, each commanding a

view of a pretty garden tastefully constructed in a

quadrangle formed by the buildings around

it.

Here

were placed seats of porcelain, stone, and the stumps

of trees curiously carved.

The

first

room which we entered was one

up in the English

style, all

fitted

the furniture having been

FRENCH AND CHINESE ROOMS.

272

The

manufactured in London.
coloured

walls were richly

for paper can never be used in India, as

the white ants would eat

it

up

Here

in a few days.

were portraits of some branches of Sir Jamsetjee's

by an

family, painted in oil

to
five

Bombay on

artist

and who had pocketed

speculation,

hundred rupees

who had come out

for each picture.

The second

drawing-room, as we were informed, was furnished

in

French

the

style

and

lofty

if

pier-glasses,

statuary, vases of artificial flowers, musical

clocks,

elegant chandeliers, marble brackets, with groups of

alabaster

on

figures

them,

Bohemian

glass,

gilt

couches and chairs, are in favour with our continental

room

friends, this

of

afforded,

no doubt, a good specimen

their taste in domestic decoration.

The next

and most interesting apartment to us was the Chinese

We

drawing-room.

we saw
articles

here,

as it

were delighted with everj'thing

contained

ivory, or mother-of-pearl.

folding-screens, with the

gold, silver,

beautiful

The whole

brought from China.

furniture appeared to be

many

so

made out

of the

of papier mach6,

There were three superb

most

and pearl-work.

brilliant designs in

The

tables were set

out with bronze figures of birds, tortoises, Chinese

idols,

and magnificent Japan

jars

one table bore,

in a glass case, a noble silver epergne, representing

a plantain

tree,

with peacocks spreading out their

AN EXPENSIVE WEDDING.
tails

under

that had been presented to Sir

by the merchants of Bombay,

setjee

worthy knight.

to the

respect
sofas,

it,

queer

in great

mark

as a

of

Lounging-chairs,

carpets,

were

and made

profusion,

walking upon such beautiful

fearful of

Jam-

couches, ottomans, and Persian and

little

Turkey rugs and prayer

about

273

distributed

one

almost

fabrics.

We

spent some time in this room, the last of the state

apartments,

The

if

may so term them.

I may observe here,

Parsees,

sociable set of people, fond of pleasure

which,

ments,
eagerly,

after

business

and are extremely

of

money

liberal

very

and amusethey

pursue

and hospitable

They resemble the Persians

one towards another.

in this respect,

hours,

are

and are prodigal in the expenditure

for show, or for the celebration of

any

In celebrating their mar-

particular family event.

riages they are ridiculously profuse in their liberality.

Hundreds are invited to the

feast

shawls and other costly things are

in all directions.

to

expend half

after the

invited to one of these

dation.

to friends

bridegroom has been known

most extravagant

weeks or a month

marquee

made

his fortune in a public entertainment

kept up on the

large

and presents of

for

scale for three

ceremony.

was once

merry meetings, held in a

want of proper house-accommo-

The amusements
T

consisted of the dancing

274

SIR ja^setjee's dixing-hall.

of nautcli

girls

neatly folded

rose-water

to one

presents

little

up

sprinklings

another of favourite spices

green leaves

in

devouring

confections for which the city of

of

celebrated

making

all sorts

Yezd

is

so

and invoking blessings upon the newly-

married people, in songs that were certainly not very

musical.

We

were now anxious to get a peep,

if possible,

at that portion of this large house occupied

Jamsetjee's family

we

inspected

by Sir

and having obtained permission,

some of the dormitories, which we

found to be comfortable and well -ventilated rooms,

containing the conveniences usually found in such

Merwanjee took us into a

apartments at home.

long dining-hall, where a table was set out for some

Like the Hindoos, the Parsees are very

repast.

particular about eating

vessel that has
faith,

out of any

been defiled by one of a different

and they object to share in the cup of one

of their

may

and drinking

own

people, fearing that

partake of their

The

sins.

and some other birds and

by so doing they
hare, dog, vulture,

beasts of prey are for-

bidden food, though dogs and cocks have a sacred

character attached to them.

they instantly deprive of

Ahriman

All poisonous reptiles

life,

as

creatures

which

delights to send forth as messengers

his evil intentions towards

man.

of

THE ladies' apaetments.

We

275

followed Merwanjee througli a series of other

rooms, aud up another flight of stairs out on to the

flat roof,

where we enjoyed a most splendid view of

the whole island of

Bombay.

Seats were placed on

who

the leads for the accommodation of the ladies,

morning and evening to pray, and to

retire hither

read over their book of Zendavista, and study the

Dabistan and Dassateer, as the two latter contain

of various superstitions

a history
tised

among them, and

Hoshung, who, they

commonly

a sketch of the

say, first

prac-

of one

life

worshipped the true

fire.

Upon

our return,

Merwanjee, at

our

request,

introduced us to a part of Sir Jamsetjee's family.

Upon

entering their private room,

lady and
together,

three young-looking

upon low

under them

chairs,

we found an
sitting

girls

close

with their feet tucked

but we could not discover that they

had been engaged in any employment,

ladies

for Eastern

The

have no resources within themselves.

rich, generally speaking, are

taught nothing, and are

kept in a sad state of ignorance

the world

is

all

priesthood

they

know

of

principally gleaned from story-tellers,

or from the foolish traditions handed

Dustoors,

old

Mobads,

among

and Herboods
the Parsees.

down by

orders

Sir

the

of the

Jamsetjee's

family are certainly an exception to this rule, for

THE BURRA BABEE.

276

both his sons and daughters have been well educated.

The

burra-bahee, or old lady, appeared delighted

to find that one of our party (a lady) could converse

freely with her in Hindostanee.

that

sarree,

She wore a crimson

had been put on gracefully over her

head, and hid everything in

its folds,

save two small

hands, that were loaded with beautiful rings

for

truly,

" Rich and rare wore the gems she wore/*

and which sparkled and

glittered all over her person.

Her nose ornament had a very

large pearl in

it,

but

sadly disfigured that prominent feature on one side.

She appeared a

little

anxious, I thought, to display

her ornaments, baubles which are cast aside by the

Anglo-Indian

lady in

common, or too much

that

we admired

this

like the natives;

and seeing

a fine emerald on her finger, she

unfastened from under her

suggestion, a sort
largest

country as being too

sarree,

at

Merwanjee's

hoop-necklace set with

of

diamonds I ever remember seeing

the

and the

splendid string of jewels was handed about for us

all to

examine.

The

ladies

with the beauty of the

ing the necklace, said

sum

of

money.

it

were particularly in love

brilliants,

and upon return-

must have

cost a very large

The burra-babee smiled

as

she

A YOUNG MOTHER.

round her wrinkled neck, and remarked,

clasped

it

that

was only

it

277

Jier

ev&ry-day necklace

she did not wear her

very good

and that

ones except on

festive occasions.

Her companions were very

and not

shy,

at all

disposed to enter into conversation

one

who was

and had a very

attired in a white sarree,

of them,

melancholy cast of countenance, had retired to a

window soon

recess near the

after

we had

entered

the

room

the

daughter-in-law of the chatty old dame, and

had just
before,

upon

lost

inquiry,

her second

we

learned that she was

boy

who, a few days

had been placed by the side of

his

little

brother in the Temple of Silence belonging to the

family.

We

could scarcely believe that so young

a creature had already been the mother of two children.

" She

Merwanjee
stay

is

mourning over them very bad," said

and fearing that by prolonging our

we might be intruding upon

we made our low salaams

this

sorrowing one,

to the burra-babee

and

thus ended an agreeable visit to the house of Sir

Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy.

THE JEWS OF BOMBAY.

278

CHAPTER XL

" I will

buy with you,

sell

with you, talk with you, walk

with you, and so following; but

drink with you, or pray with you."

The Jews
in the
settled

*The

Bombay

iu

in the

Merchant of Venice.

Five or six thousand have

and neighbourhood, and

city

results of the census taken in

published; and

comprising in
at least, of

all

it

not eat with you,

constitute rather a large item

population.*

down

I will

May, 1849, have been

appears, that in the island of

twenty square miles of ground

Bombay,

four-fifths,

which are uninhabitable swamp or rock

there

no fewer than 566,119 inhabitants, of whom

354,090 are males, and 212,029 females. Of these, 6,936
are Brahmins; 289,995 are of other castes of Hindoos;
are in

all

1,902 are Jains; 124,155 are

Mohammedans;

114,698 Par-

Jews; 7,456 native Christians; 1,333 IndoBritons; 5,417 Indo-Portuguese

5,088 pure Europeans;
889 Siddees, Negroes, and Africans; and 7,118 of other

sees;

1,132

castes imspecified.

Europeans are

less

From
than

this

1 in

census

we

learn,

that the

100 of the whole population.

279

A MIXED PEOPLE.

obtain for the most part an honest livelihood, as

carpenters,

house-builders,

and cultivators of the

That a Jew should be thus employed

soil.

may

many who are familiar with their

history, and their known dislike to anything like
manual labour; for who ever heard, among ourappear singular to

selves,

We

of a Jewish farmer, or a Jewish carpenter?

are tempted, however, to doubt the purity of the

race

met with

commercial towns in India

in all the

and to suppose that they,

medans, and

other

Moham-

like the Parsees,

interlopers,

have

from long association with a people

degenerated,

at total variance

with anything like Christianity.

The following

brief account given of the

Bombay, may, perhaps, throw some

interesting subject,

light

and bear us out in the

Jews in
on

this

idea, that

they are a mixed people, and not the pure race of

Hebrews met with

Germany, or

in Poland,

in the

corners of the dingy second-hand shops of Holywell

Street,

London, where these

land " buy,

we

sell,

exiles

from " Vader-

and get gain, and do

not, so far as

are able to learn, trouble themselves

much about

the realization of the prophecy that will one day

certainly restore
ever,

them

to Palestine.

Let

remember that our own sacred

pointedly

make known

to us

respect towards this ancient

us,

how-

Scriptures

that kindness

and

and peculiar people are

WHITE AXD BLACK JEWS.

280

most acceptable
the veil

may

God

the sight of

iii

and though

be upon their hearts, they are the

still

chosen ones of the Almighty, for "blessing

them

that

bless them,

and cursing

for

is

them that

for

curse them."

writer in an Indian periodical {Dynanodaya),

informs us, that "

more

who have
is

Jews

arrived here,

tlie

is

Cochin, and

Israel.

When

whom

and to

language,

vernacular

Beni

are called

but by far the greater por-

settled in this country,

or

Israelites,

Bombay have

Some have come from

are called Black

Mahratta

of the Jews in

come from Arabia, and

recently

White Jews.

tion

Some

are

called

their ancestors

not certainly known.

They say

it

was about IGOO years ago, that the ship in which

they came was wrecked, and that seven
seven women,

who

Nagao (some

escaped, settled at

thirty miles to the south-east of

men and

were, at one time, generally engaged in the

facture of

masons,

oil,

but at present

carpenters,

cultivators,

many
<fec."

of

ago),

and

Bombay

the Israelites were

almost

even

Scriptures

manu-

them

The

goes on to say, that when the missionaries

out to the island of

They

Bombay).

are

writer

first

came

(thirty or forty years

generally unable to read,

wholly ignorant of their

own

that they had generally ceased to observe

the Sabbath as a day of rest, "

and

were^ in

many

MORAL PROGRESS.
respects,

conformed

Mohammedan

281

customs of their Hindoo

to the

neighbours.''''

and

It is stated, in a printed

journal of the earlier missionaries, that the magistrates described

them

at that

drunken and troublesome

The

missionaries,

it

time as being the most

on

people

the island.

appears from the author

whom

I have taken the liberty of quoting, have from the

first

taken a deep interest in the Israelites or Jews.

They

early established

among them

schools, in

They

both sexes were taught to read and write.

furnished

them with

which

the Bible, translated into the

vernacular language, and instructed several of

them

in Hebrew, so that they might be able to refer to

the original Scriptures.

that the Jews forsook

The consequence of

many

this was,

of those things which, on

becoming acquainted with the Scriptures, they found

to be forbidden

and that they have greatly ad-

vanced in intelligence, wealth, morality, and general

respectability.

Such

Jews

in

is

the pleasing account given of the poor

Bombay

and we cannot be surprised, that

the missionaries should have

attention to them,

first

turned their earnest

when they found

that this rem-

nant of a once highly- favoured people had sunk so

low as to have forgotten the God of their

and to have turned to

Brahminism.

fathers,

worshipping the idols

of

A FAMILY OF ARABIAN JEWS.

282

The

dress

of the Jews in

Bombay

from the costume worn

little

Their robes are

people.

by other Eastern

fuller,

and of a superior

The men, generally speaking,

texture.

and expressive and thoughtful

two regular synagogues

Revadunda,

where

attract the

by their commanding

attention of a stranger,

figures

They have

features.

Bombay, and one

in

read

they

but

differs

the

Scriptures

at

in

In the Fort they have two

Hebrew and Mahratta.

held.

On

the sea-shore of an evening, I have observed

many

private houses where public worship

Jews

offering

up

their prayers

of different castes

pose;

who

among

the numbers

resort thither for that pur-

and, like Jacob

worshipping their

of old,

Creator, leaning on the top of their

is

staff.

family of Arabian or white Jews, resided in

a narrow street directly opposite the house in which

I lodged

and

as

my

room was pretty

sitting

I had daily opportunities of observing

colony of Israelites from

amused by the way

this

establishment

in

my

this

lofty,
little

window, and was often

which the female portion of

passed

their

Venetian shutters were kept wide open

could, without being observed

into their principal sitting

As

time.

all

by them, see

room

and even

their

day, I

distinctly
if I

were

detected casting furtive glances across the street,

my

Jewish neighbours appeared quite indifferent about

283

BLESSING THE DOOR-POSTS.

the matter.

This careless indifference about being

overlooked, at times induced

was possible

my name

me

to suppose that

was familiar to them, and that

own

they were pleased that one of their

was merely

religion

had

But of course

taken up his quarters so near them.

this

it

though I believe they

conjectural,

knew my Jewish-sounding cognomen.

They were seldom

astir before I

returned from

my

morning's walk, and precisely at nine o'clock the

master of the house went out on his daily business

but before leaving the

step,

he would turn round to

place the palms of his hands

upon the

dwelling and

bless, as I fancied, the

door-posts, to

inhabitants

its

or, it

might be done in commemoration of the Pass-

over.

This he did regularly, and with an air of

apparent solemnity

his

as

lips,

could

detect,

seemed moved in the utterance of words that were

inaudible

to me.

He wore

beard, that swept far

particularly neat

down

patriarchal-looking

his white robes

and cleanly in

and was

his personal appear-

ance.

His thick cumbrous turban was folded with

taste,

but his bright orange-coloured slippers, being

cut

much lower than

those usually

Hindoos, were so loose upon his

him

to shuffle along to

worn by the

feet as to oblige

keep them on

at

all,

as he

walked.

His lady seldom went from home

and when she

A JEWISH CHERUB.

284
did, it

was to take a

shegram

exercise in a covered

little

on which rare occasions she wore a dark

muslin mask over her

face, as the

Her whole day appeared

do.

to

Egyptian

me

to be exhausted

in the care of a lovely cherub boy, about

old,

whom

gether,

women

two years

she nursed and played with for hours to-

upon a low

settee near the

Never

window.

were a mother's affections more concentrated in one

earthly object than hers were in this sweet child

Abour

ten o'clock, and after their breakfast of

fruits,

and chocolate, the old ayeh was

undress our

by

called up, to

champoohed

for it

legs about

was done so gently, and

kisses, that

he would toss his

and laugh so

heartily, that I

was generally soon aware what was going on

tions

this

was

and,

full

an operation that appeared to give him

mixed up with so many

When

rice,

he was placed

large soft pillow, to be

excessive i)leasure

little

First,

friend.

little

upon a

his nurse

plump

he

" the ocean to the river of her thoughts."

was indeed

stretch

opposite.

over, he fell fast asleep after his exer-

with his tawny skin,

resembled an

exquisite piece of chiseled marble, tinged with the

yellow hue of age.

As he

lay where the

morning

breeze could blow softly over him, hushed in the deep

slumber of happy innocence, with the fond mother

w^atching by his side, I thought I had never seen so

sweet a group

Canova might have chosen

it

for a

GAUDILY DRESSED.

Sometimes the child was dressed up in the

study.

most extravagant
round

285

his arms,

finery

and anklets

were jingling about his

feet

with glittering stones

set

a necklace of gold-coins,

was thrown over

three or four deep,

shoulders,

gold bangles were clasped

his fat little

and he was then put into a nondescript

red silk dress, with a spangled skull-cap having a

long streaming tassel to

please the father,

After

tiffin

on

it

and

all this

was done to

his return.

was over the scene was changed.

The

only son was then undressed, and dropped into a sort

of

hammock, suspended

in the

room where the ayeh,

during the absence of the mother, had again to

punkah him

to sleep,

and

amuse

to

herself

the mosquitoes that annoyed him.

ever, another object that shared, in

affections of the Israelitish

very large and beautiful

tribe,

projected

amused to
visit

There was, how-

some measure, the

;

and

this

was a

which, like most of his

He was

cream-coloured fur

Persian breed
that

killing

was fond of wandering from home, and giving

trouble to his owners.

curly,

cat,

woman

by

and
far

covered with a long,

a fine specimen of the

as he sat purring

under a jalousie

over the window, I was

see the strange variety of cats that

and admire him.

about them, and usually

They had

made

all

often

came

to

a foreign air

their appearance

on

the roof of the house, whence they would peep over

AN ASSEMBLY OF

286

CATS.

curiously, to ascertain first

whether Sajee were at his

accustomed

leaping

before

post,

was not uncommon

together on the

like the

boys

it

to see five or six sitting sedately

window

sill,

passed in the street below.

up

the

Thus

their respects to him.

and paying

jalousie

down upon

monkeys

that

eyeing every person that

Some were

partly dressed

accompany our barrel-organ

and one that was the property of a

Pon-

little

dichcrry Frenchman, next door, was half-shaved, and

Puss was as

ornamented with tri-coloured ribbons.

fond of the baby as
he could do

hammock,

it

and

its

mother was

and, whenever

unnoticed, he would steal into the

famous romps

they would

have

together.

Sajee was missing

One morning, poor

were sent in
vain.

all

directions in search of

They came

early over to

had seen him from

them no information

my window
;

unless

him

my house,
it

servants

but in

to

know if

but I could give

were, that

myself experienced a somewhat similar

loss,

had

by the

disappearance of a small spaniel, which I had brought

over with

me

to the country

and that I strongly

suspected they both had been stolen.

Tasso, soon after his arrival with
suffered

much from

deforce of heat to

frightful

fits,

me

in India,

occasioned by a

which he had never been accustomed.

Curious to say, in a short time, he cast his

warm

287

TRANSMIGRATIOX OF SOULS.
English coat, which was replaced by a
covering

and

after

this

much

thinner

salutary change, his

and the poor fellow recovered

entirely left him,

wonted health and animation

and

understood his complaint

and when

his

his

once more

life

The

appeared to afford him real enjoyment.

fits

fits

natives

attacked

and he would come suddenly to a

him

in the street,

full

stop for a second

or two,

violently round in a circle,

and then, running

would drop down, foam-

ing and panting, upon the pavement, convulsed in

every limb, they would run into their houses, and

bring out large vessels of water to throw over him

operation which, though

it

an

brought him round again,

occasioned the poor creature a degree of suffering that

was painful

to witness

brought him out.

The kindness shown

must be attributed

On

and cherish

all

animals

dog

alike.

Jew

salaam to me, with the pleasing

sent over his bote

intelligence,

had been discovered

that

at the native

hospital for the preservation of animals

my

my

a belief which induces them

the following day, the

his favourite cat

to

to the belief of the natives in the

transmigration of souls
to protect

and I often regretted having

and that

dog, Tasso, had been seen there, enjoying him-

self in

tailed

the society of Pariahs, baboons, and long-

monkeys

adding, moreover, that

one rupee, with a person

who

if

I sent

could identify him,

THE HOSPITAL FOR ANIMALS.

288
pay

to

board and lodging, he would

for his

Upon

immediately restored to me.

I dispatched

my

learning this,

boy, with the required fee in his

pocket, to effect Tasso's release

and a few hours

afterwards I had the pleasure of once

my

more patting

He was

old fellow-traveller on the back.

in

and must have been living on

excellent condition,

the land

the fat of

be

indeed, generally, these im-

prisoned animals have plenty of food, and are well

taken care

"Whether

of.

were the remembrance

it

of his former good quarters and old associates, by

which the dog was actuated,

Pedro,

my

boy,

came

my

into

cannot

tell

but

sitting-room a few

mornings afterwards, and with a woe-begone countenance,

informed

hospital 80

me,

much, he go again

Tasso had slipped his

To show

"that

that

collar,

"

dog

little

like

and sure enough,

and made

his escape.

that dogs do take strange fancies

animals of a

species

different

from their own, I

need only mention a case where a pet poodle in

possession, in

chained in a large yard.

hours, and the

monkey

that

had been one of

monkey would put

its

continued

own

for

was kept

They would play together

round the neck of the poodle, and nurse

intimacy

my

England, passed the greater part of

every day in company with a

for

for

offspring.

some months,

his
it

arms

as if

it

This great
until

the

EVENING PRAYER.

monkey was

away

sent

289

for pulling the slates off

an

out- bull ding.

As I was not
week
I

for a

in a position to

pay a rupee every

day or two of Tasso's company, I thought

had better make a present of him to

Zoological
that

Society:

this

and, unless he have gone to

bourne from whence no

little

dogs return, I

have no doubt but, that at this moment,

spaniel,

of

Hindoo

my

brown

which was born and educated in the

Man, might be recognized

Isle

in this hospital near

Bombay.
But

to return to our Jewish friends.

saw the happy family again re-united

hour the shutters were

at this

to the Giver of all

good, for the mercies of the past day.

it

and

finally closed for the night,

and the sound of prayer ascended

could not see him,

Six o'clock

was impossible

Although I

to mistake the

voice of the father, or the sacred service in which he

The

was engaged.
over,
voice,

the mother

daily duty ended,

would

sing,

and supper

accompanying her

one of the sweetest I ever heard, with the

Spanish guitar

and, as they generally sat

up

late,

I often heard, on awakening in the night, the sweet,

pensive airs she used to play

for,

unlike the gene-

rality of the children of Israel, she could sing the

songs of Zion in a strange land.

Eight months had rolled by, and the day at length

GRATEFUL RECOLLECTIONS.

290

arrived on which I was to leave this neighbourhood.

I took a last parting look at the

little

window where

the

boy was wont to amuse me, but I was disap-

pointed.

He who had

was not there

close street, I

was surprised to

loved- him.

fifteen

and

so long engaged

my

affection

as I turned out of the narrow,

how much

find

and dangerous

long

weeks* confinement to

my

had
with

illness,

room, may, in some

measure, account to the reader for the great interest

which I took in

Hebrew

this

by signs

often intimated

me

experienced in seeing

tomed post

to me, the pleasure they

once again at

if

she rejoiced in

my

other

remarked during

little

knew

certain that

The happy and inno-

which they appeared to

many

trial,

recovery.

for she

am

that I loved her only child, and I

with

accus-

grieved to see the long thin

had so reduced

face that sickness

life

my

and the poor mother would at times

shake her head, as

cent

They had

family.

lead, contributed,

circumstances which I had

this long season of suffering

and

to leave a pleasing impression of the Jewish

domestic character upon

my mind

and

afterwards, I often fancied, during the

still

for years

hours of

night, that I heard the warbling voice of the Israelitish

woman.

MALABAR

CHAPTER

Then am

291

HILL.

XII.

and must we soon part?

Yet time shall not banish past hours from my heart,
Kemembrance shall call them, though oceans divide.
And memoiy shall point to what distance must hide,

I to leave thee

DELIGHTFUL canter over the

carries you, in

ornamental bungalows,
Hill.

smooth sands

about an hour, from Fort George to a

picturesque road that winds

Malabar

fine

and

among broken

rocks,

dense woods, up

to

This very elevated promontory runs

out in a south-westerly direction, like

its

opposite

neighbour, Colabah, but does not extend so far into

the ocean.

Bay.

On

It forms a western
its

boundary of Back

extreme point, and exposed to every

breeze that steals over the island, a pretty-looking

house rather in the cottage style had been built for

TEMPLE CAVES OF KENNERY.

292

the governor of

Bombay

to reside in, during the hot

season of the year, a telegraphic communication being

kept up between the cottage and the

castle in the

Fort.

The
and

is

principal residence of the governor

more

situated iu a

This residence

is

is

at Parell,

central part of the island.

a handsome-looking building, and

contains some noble reception-rooms.

was origin-

It

and

ally a church belonging to the order of Jesuits,

was purchased by the East India Company

present purj^ose.
ever,

low and swampy park, how-

Its

and the unhealthy character of

hood during

the

its

monsoons, rendered

neighbour-

good road of a few miles

Parell to the causeway that connects

with

Salsette.

their

clothed with

elevation

towns

principal

Tanna and
;

hills

brushwood

of
to

Gorabunda are the

and are peopled by the descend-

One

ants of Portuguese families.

perforated

Bombay

This latter island has some

summits.

so

you

in extent takes

from

considerable

not

it

had been anticipated.

desirable a situation as

for its

by excavations cut

of the hills

into the rock,

is

known

as the temple-caves of Kennery, and well worth a

visit

of

Bhuddist temple

where a

The

inspection.
fifty

feet

colossal statue of

raised in supplication,

is

most remarkable

is

long by twenty wide,

Bhudda, with

his

on the east side of a

hands
lofty

WALKA-ES-WARRE.

293

It does not appear that this island was

portico.

included in the marriage contract already mentioned,

for after the surrender of
still

persisted

in

Bombay, the Portuguese

retaining

during the confusion of a

it,

civil

until 1773,

when,

war which followed

the assassination of Narrain Row, the principal fort

was stormed by the English, who have ever since

retained

it

undisturbed.

This island supplies

Bombay with

rice, sugar, fruit,

sheep,

and many other very valuable commodities,

and

about twenty miles in length.

is

The views from

Malabar Hill and Point are truly enchanting.

ing

down

Look-

the rugged sides of this rock, where the

Tara and other palms grow spontaneously, the eye

rests for

gently lave

moment upon
its base,

the deep blue waters which

and which are dotted here and

there by odd-shaped coasting-vessels, tacking about

the bay, or running ashore on the opposite banks, to

discharge their timber cargoes.

The view from the

Point comprehends a vast extent of the Indian Ocean

and numerous lovely-looking islands

hills that

but distant

overtop one another shut in the prospect

towards the north-east, and form a grand and noble

range.

We

pass on our road a large native village called

Walka-es-warre, that
of

is

some three thousand

said to contain a population

souls.

This village has but

DURRUM SAULAH.

294
to

little

recommend

offensive,

it,

for the streets are close

and

from the dirty character of the inhabitants

though I have often been amused in passing through

it

of an evening, by watching the Banian merchants

sitting in front of their shops, the business of the

day

being over, intently engaged in the intricacies of a

game
him,

of chess

each player had a

who were watching

large stake set

game with

upon the

moves

the

crowd around

as if each

Chess

result.

the Hindoos and

we have

believe

little

is

had a

a favourite

Mussulmans, and I

to thank the former for its intro-

duction into England.

work explanatory of

this

Indian amusement, published some years ago in

Bombay by a
but

little

The

native, lays

down

rules

which vary

from those in use among ourselves.

village of Walka-es-warre is rather celebrated

Temple, and for the traditional sanctity

for its old

attached to

it

by the

idle

Brahmins, who reap at

certain festive seasons of the year their accustomed

rich harvest.

This temple stands at the head of a

fine sheet of water, near to

dumim

which

savlafi, for the shelter

travellers,

is

a commodious

of the pilgrims and

who, during the rains and at their termi-

nation, resort hither to bathe in this pool of Bethesda.

On

such days the steps leading

thronged with the lame, the

waiting, not for the

moving

halt,

down

to

and the

it

are

blind,

of the waters, but for

295

FREQUENT ABLUTIONS.
some kind

them

friend to push

good washing

in

and give them a

and wFetched appear-

for the filthy

ance of some of these infatuated mendicants makes

this quite

may

an act of charity.

my

here observe to

younger readers, that

ablutions occupy an important part in

The poor Hindoo, whose bodily

ceremonials.

infirmi-

crawling across the country, or whose

ties forbid his

limited

Brahminical

all

means

will

not afford him a conveyance that

might carry him to that holy stream which, as he

taught to believe, can wash away

all

sins,

is

is

per-

mitted by the rules of his religion to bathe in the

nearest sacred river to his

own

be accounted unto him

for righteousness.

doing, however, he
to

make

been

if

performed in
all

Mohammedans

own

its

it

shall

In so

would have

waters, so that he

impurities of flesh and spirit.

are even

more

observances than the Hindoos

they wash after every

are,

and

must earnestly entreat the Ganges

this ablution as effective as it

be freed from

They

residence,

little

may
The

particular about these

:

for if really orthodox,

work which they perform.

however, a very mixed sect in India, and

would be a

difficult

some of them

it

matter to discover what creed

profess.

I saw outside the walls of this village

some luxu-

riant specimens of the tree

whose seeds produce our

[palma

This showy and beautiful

castor-oil

Christi).

THE PALMA

296

CHRISTI.

annual, as I need scarcely remark,

the soil of Hindostan.

The

is

leaves,

indigenous to

which bear a

striking resemblance to those of the vine, are of a

and the flowers have long stamens

fine bluish green,

The

of a purplish hue.
it

capsule, or seed-vessel, as

approaches maturity, puts on a brilliant crimson

and

tinge,

is

covered with an armour of short spines,

like the horse-chesnut.

The

seeds, the

part of the tree, are quite black

cell

little

of

its

and each has a

own, whence, when

shot out by the sudden expansion of

fully ripe, it is

These

its case.

seldom attain a height beyond twelve

trees

and

most useful

as they are so ornamental,

and

feet

easily cultivated,

they are frequently introduced, in India, into gardens

and shrubberies,
pressed

oil,

which

})urnt in the

clear light,

for their
is

The

beauty alone.

warm

very fluid in

climates, is

lamps of the natives, producing a

and not much smoke or

Sauntering one evening in this

I^would pay a

visit to

ex-

fine

smell.

district,

1 thought

some of the hundaiTies, or

toddy-drawers, and inspect the process of collecting

the

palm-wine.

Having

tied

my

tattoo

under a

spreading tree by the road-side, I got over a low

fence,

tion

and made

of palms

my way

into a vast tope, or planta-

being preceded by a small party of

drawers, bearing upon their shoulders three or four

large red burnt chattees to contain the toddy.

The

COLLECTING PALM-WINE.

297

sun was sinking low in the west, and shot

fierce

its

glorious rays under the leafy canopy above us, which

was so

close

and thick

see the least patch of

as scarcely to permit us to

The land-

sky overhead.

breeze whispered through the forest as

we walked

over the withered accumulation

along, noiselessly,

of centuries of fallen leaves and bark, and surveyed

the long aisles formed by the mighty monarchs of

the Eastern vegetable world.

There was a strange

solitude about the place, broken in upon, occasionally,

by some heavy bird that flapped down upon

the crowned top of a palm, where

head under

We
my

its

wing, and was at

it

soon hid

its

rest.

soon reached the scene of action, and, casting

eyes to the tops of the trees, I saw that each of

them had a

vessel tied

under

its

leaves.

To empty

these vessels of the exuded juice that had collected

since the morning,

panions' present

down on

the

securely about

was the purpose of

visit.

One

ground, to

him

(for

of

my

men

the

com-

squatted

kummerband

fasten his

they can do nothing in India

standing up), and after taking off his turban, and

twisting the lock of hair on the top of his head
into a knot,
fingers,

and

cracking

all

the

joints

of

his

he placed a strap around his own body and

the tree which he was about to ascend, and then

threw

it

with

much

dexterity over the

first

step cut

THE BUNDARRIES.

298
in the bark

and

by a

thus,

movements,

series of

throwing the strap successively over each step above

him, he was not long in reaching the chattee at the
top

the height being

Having

from the ground.

feet

some ninety or a hundred

made a

first

secure

seat of the strap, he untied the cord that fastened

the

part of the tree

to that

vessel

flower-stem, from which

bruised

could hang into

it;

round

coir rope

down, with

its

con-

by

into one of the vessels which they had brought

This being done, at a given signal he

with them.
hauled

up

it

in

its

and

again,

afresh with a knife,

more

it

flows,

to the bundarries below, to be emptied

tents,

them

the juice

and tying a long

rim, cautiously lowered

its

whence the

place,

after probing the

wound

and securing the chattee once

he descended cautiously, and at

a slower pace than that at which he went up.

appeared to be a

little

He

fatigued by his exertions, and

gave the strap to another, who proceeded to

the toddy from the next tree

collect

and so each ascended

in his turn.

Some

of the old palm-trees, that have been sixty

or seventy years under the knife operation, groan

and bend
top

fearfully,

as

but they say there

the climbers
is

no danger, as the south-

west monsoon generally blows down

which, in

approach the

all

consequence of age, will not

the palms

bear the

"

CHATTEE NA

man

weight of a

and I believe

that

an accident occurs.

taste

some of the

299

SAIB."
it

very rarely

is

I was very anxious to

fresh- drawn toddy, but,

poor knowledge of the language, had some

culty in

my

shook his head, saying,

signs,

" Chattee na saih,

at once

out of
I

One

wishes understood.

diffi-

of the

men, however, as soon as he comprehended

elder

my

making

my

from

cliattee

na

at the

saib ; "

and

it

that I should defile the vessel

same time,

I drank

if

and that he had no other to give

it,

made a cup

of

my

me

hand, and presented to

this ancient drinking-vessel,

me

struck

so

him

which he immediately

filled

with toddy, and repeated the draught until

I was

satisfied.

The palm-wine

the

is

which, in India, they

sale,
fit

same

grateful

hawk through

every morning before sun-rise

to drink for an hour or

two

beverage

the streets for

for it is only

being collected,

after

fermentation rapidly taking place, and converting

it

into

an intoxicating

yields the

well-known

fluid,

spirit

which, by distillation,
called

arrack.

As

return for the old man's kindness, I put into his

hands

an

delighted

anna, with which

making

and grinning
he

me

after each

he

several

was wonderfully

profound

salaams,

bow, to evince the pleasure

felt.

In some

districts,

where the palm-trees are very

300

LOSE

MY WAY.

close together, they are connected together

by

ropes,

so as to enable the toddy-drawers to go from one to

another, without the trouble of descending.

I have

often felt nervous and dizzy in seeing the drawers

ascend some of the towering cocoa-nut trees that

stand alone in the Fort, or on Colabah, for
appears to be a very dangerous exploit.
are accustomed to

and

flexible

little

it

from childhood, and

really

it

But they
their bare

have a safe hold in each of the

feet

steps that are

notched into the bark, every

three or four feet from the bottom to the top.

was quite dusk before I was again seated on

It

my

and as

tattoo;

strayed so far from

it

was the

home

time I

first

in this direction, I

had
had

my way back, before

my way, and that, in-

not proceeded half a mile on

I discovered that I had lost

stead of advancing, as I thought,

down

to the shore,

I was cantering just in a contrary direction across

the island.

At

the roadside

last I halted opposite

and turning the

some huts by

tattoo's nose into the

open door-way of one, in which I saw a party

cooking round a

fire,

inquired

the

sitting

road to the

esplanade, or Fort George, in the best Hindostanee

I could muster

them

in

but I might as well have addressed

Welsh or German,

understand.
if

for anything they could

The grown-up people

stared at

I were a robber, and some children

me

as

who were

A PORTUGUESE

301

SPIKIT-STORE.

asleep in a corner, hearing the chattering, put their

and

heads up above the rags that covered them,

seeing the pony's nose inside the door, burst out

into

immoderate

of laughter, in which the

fits

my

black wretches persisted, until,

little

patience being

exhausted, I turned the pony out into the road, not

knowing which way

I threw the

him a

giving

to turn.

and,

reins over old Deesa's neck,

pretty smart cut,

whithersoever he

He

listed.

left

him

me

to take

put his nose down to

the ground, snorted once or twice, and then set

down a long

as hard as he could go,

trees
off.

hung over

and hold

prevent

its

so thick that 1

my

lane,

off,

where the

had to take

my

hat

head down upon his shoulders, to

being knocked

off,

and even with these

precautions I got well lashed by the branches before

down

I found myself going

Deesa did not slacken

town.

whence

spirit-store

proceeded

and

full

until

of

he

stop outside a

dancing-room,

the sounds

boisterous merriment

pace

his

turned a corner, and came to a

Portuguese

new

a long street in the

vile

from

music and

crowds were going in sober,

and coming out mad and furious with strong drink.

I had fortunately not to wait long in this polluted

atmosphere,

whom
man

before I detected the face

I knew, and

in the Fort.

who was

He

of a

boy

the servant of a gentle-

told

me

I was three miles

BOMBAY CATHEDRAL,

302

yet from borne, and

if

would not

me

where I had seen him, he would get

I was so

tired, that I

his master

tell

a guide.

would have made him any

promise, however absurd.

chokra, or errand-

runner, was soon procured, as well as a palanquin,

and giving him the pony to follow

me, in about

after

an hour and a half I found myself at home, and

just in time to save from the trouble of setting out
in search of me,

two

servants,

who had

kindly armed

themselves with lanterns and sticks, and other

comforts, and

a night of

who had

make

obviously intended to

So terminated

it.

little

my

first visit

to the

toddy-drawers.

During

my

residence in

opportunities of

Bombay,

attending

divine

had frequent

service

in

the

Cathedral, and was often struck by the smallness of

the congregation assembled there on the Sabbathday, particularly of an afternoon.

This sad neglect

did not arise from any lack of earnestness on the

part of those

who laboured

ministers of Christ.

preached

and

judgment could

his

in

Bombay,

The Bishop
sermons, so

(Dr.
far

as faithful

Carr) often
as

my

poor

decide, were sound, eloquent,

and

from which few could

rise

impressive discourses

without feeling that they had, in some measure,

been improved by them.

pews did he and

others,

Yet, what rows of

Sunday

after

empty

Sunday, preach

THINLY ATTENDED.
to

morning, exclusive of the

Nay, even of a

303

military, wlio are, in fact, compelled to attend,

few were the

house dedi-

civilians collected in this

cated to the worship of the

Most High

how

It is true,

there are other places for Christian worship in

Bom-

bay, for this island lacks nothing in this respect

but they

wore a vacant

all

Church

tion of the Scotch

imagine, a sufficient
in

Bombay,

to

fill,

aspect, with the excep;

yet there are, I should

number of

Protestants resident

even to

churches and chapels on

addition from the large

overflowing,

all

the

the island, without any

amount of European

"ship-

ping constantly riding at anchor in the harbour.

A visitor
see so

doors.

is

struck upon entering the cathedral, to

many of the natives collected around its

Some peeping curiously in, as if a novel

ceremony were going forward

while the children

were evidently attracted by the solemn music proceeding from a fine organ.

What

a desire one

felt

to take in along with one, these poor little idolaters,

and

let

them

water, that they

desire one

those

felt

taste, if possible,

might

to

fill,

thirst

of that living

no more

from the thronged

What

streets,

empty benches which professing Christians had

deserted

not be

so that the

lost,

word there preached might

and that they who had

left

kindred

and country, to come out here to labour in the

MONUMENTS AND STATUES.

304
gospel,

vain

might not

they laboured almost in

feel that

Large punkahs, ten and twelve

feet long, are sus-

pended over the body of the cathedral, and kept in

continual motion

who

pull a cord

by

coolies

which

is

outside the building,

attached to the fans, and

carried over a pulley through the

so that a grateful current of air

window opposite
is

kept in circu-

These punkahs just clear the heads of the

lation.

congregation

when standing up and by

;

my

at first rather diverted

their novelty

attention, especially if

there happened to be a very tall person under them.

small

punkah

is

also

pulpit and reading-desk

suspended in front of the

for it is impossible,

during

the hot season, to remain long with any comfort

without this appliance.

There are at the west end of the cathedral a few

statues that have been erected to

monuments and

commemorate distinguished

How

in this presidency.

corded on
it

may

many

be

of

who have

died

young were the ages

them

see these

to

officers,

re-

But however pleasing

mementoes of

affection

reared in our churches at home, their introduction

into such places in India cannot but be regretted

and condemned

since

it is

difficult, as

I found, to

persuade the ignorant natives that we do not worship

the

individuals

thus

commemorated, seeing

PRAYER FOR THE GOVERNMENT.

that

we

erect their

monuments

305

in our temples,

enshrine their stone figures in

our sacred places.

Surely with such acute observers as the Hindoos,

ought to avoid what to them

of

and

may

we

be the appearance

evil.

The Cathedral
and two short

George consists of a nave

side aisles, supported

by handsome and

chunam columns. The tower

polished
height,

in Fort

and

serves,

believe, as

rises to a

good

landmark

for

mariners.

The whole

ground,

neatly enclosed with an iron railing, and

is

is

kept in good order.

structure, with a small burial-

The church

of the introductory sentences,

service, after

one

commences with the

litany in the hot season, for the weather is so oppressive that it is scarcely possible to sit long in a place

of worship.

The prayer

that august body, for the

used, during the sitting of

High Court

of Parliament,

has been adapted in the following manner

gracious God,

we humbly beseech

" Most

thee, as for the

empire in general, so more especially for British

India

for the Governor-general, the Governor, the

Supreme Courts of Judicature, and

all

that are put in

authority, that thou wouldest be pleased," &c. &c.

As

within the tropics decomposition advances with

fearful rapidity, a hasty burial of

the

dead

solutely necessary for the safety of the living.

are

dug very

is

ab-

Graves

deep, to prevent the horrible bandecoots

SUDDEN DEATHS.

306

and other midnight prowling animals, from

them of

their contents

and

in

some

districts

have visited in the interior of the country,

sary to place heavy stones over the

rifling

which I

was neces-

it

or the

coflfins,

jackals would have acted the part of resurrectionists,

and carried away your departed

I have often

friend.

thought, that this exhumation of the dead by wild

animals, so
are taken,

common in India unless great precautions

may have had originally something to do

with the Hindoo custom of burning the bodies of the

departed.

Sudden deaths

are not

dysentery carries

among

uncommon

off its

in

Bombay, and

hundreds annually from

the ill-fed and ill-clothed pauper population.

Few Europeans

escape

its

attack

but the treatment

of this disease in India, by our array surgeons, like

many

other things in the present day, has undergone

a change for the better.

East were said to be

mous doses
old

Formerly our troops

fairly

in the

poisoned by the enor-

of calomel exhibited in this disease.

army surgeon

states, that it

An

was no uncommon

thing for an individual to take before he died eight

or nine hundred grains of pure calomel.

remem-

ber making a passing inquiry about a friend, with

whom

I had conversed the day before, while he was

apparently in good health and spirits

the answer I

received was, that he was dead and buried

Man,

in

TWO
India,

may

Job, to
I

307

GRIFFINS.

truly be said, in the emphatic

a shadow.

flee as

had been absent from Bombay many months,

and had returned again rather broken in

jungle fever

health, after

Western India, and an attack of

a sojourn in

and as

it

would take up

my

its

was the height of the hot

season, I determined, that

words of

till

quarters

the rains should set in,

upon the esplanade, in

a tent which I had hired for the purpose.

I was

rather fortunate in getting this tent pitched within a

few yards of high water mark

position for

demand

an

advantageous

a delicate person, and from the great

for ground- room at the time, a very difficult

one to secure, after the land had been staked out by

the authorities.
large

number

I was not without company, for a

of tents had already been pitched,

a strange set of people lived inside of them

quently, to walk between the rows and see

going on among

my

amusement of which

The
officers,

tent on

my

and

conse-

what was

neighbours, was a species of

I was rather fond.

right

was occupied by two young

good specimens of the

griffin

kind

quite

boys in outward appearance, their white faces indicating their recent arrival on the island from

some

They seemed very anxious

to get

northern country.

tanned as soon as possible

seeing that they were

accustomed to spend the greater part of their day

BORAHS, OR INDIAN PEDLARS.

308

out in the sua

many

so

consuming during these

idle

hours

manilla cheroots, that I fancied at times

some wager must have been depending

how many

them,

as

smoke

in a given period.

to

they could

When

expecting a visit from a superior

mounted a

large

like a sugar-loaf,

Arab

fur cap,

bt'tween

convert

into

not in uniform, or
they each

officer,

something in shape

adorned by a red cotton

top, that

drooped down on the side and served as a tobaccopouch.

white jacket, and what are used in India

as sleeping trousers, or defences against mosquitoes,

completed their
the

fly

attire

and there they

sat opposite

of their tent for hours together, cracking jokes

on every native that passed

men around

and collecting horah

by,

them, under the ill-founded

idea,

that

they were going to become large purchasers of their

commodities.
occasionally

But in these sharp merchants they

met

their match,

and once or twice the

butt-end of a large chittree reminded them that the

Hindoo was not

to be trifled with every day,

how-

ever sweet his temper might be.

The borahs
living

are the pedlars of the East,

by hawking about from house

different articles they pick

which

articles are

large baskets,

up from

and gain a

to house the

the public sales,

transmitted from place to place in

on the heads of

rant hucksters spread out a

coolies.

These

mat by your

itine-

tent-door,

RICH.

and display thereon an

merchandize.

foreign

GOSSIPS.

309

infinite variety of native

and

It

would be impossible to

enumerate a tithe of the strange things which they

The

offer for sale.

pose,

five continents,

one might sup-

had each contributed

their produce to help in

the borahs' baskets.

London goods, however,

filling

much space here.

much the dozen (often

honoured with

are

shown you

at so

Shirts

are

considerably

cheaper than you can buy them at home)

socks,

swords, epaulettes, plated dish covers, hot-

collars,

much used
your dinner saddles and

water plates
starves

in India, for the

musical boxes, guitars, and even

punkah

bridles, 'native toys,

down

to the

penny

yellow, whistle, that delights the country child at

English

and almost

an

all

other things, are

to be found in the borahs' baskets.

The owners of

fair

these,

these baskets are often wealthy men.

in

news

you

all

know

and

They abound

as they speak English well, can give

the current chit-chat of the island.

every European resident

They

and perhaps more

about private character, than to the individual concerned would be agreeable.

If ever, therefore, you

are at a loss for social information, the borahs are the

persons to

whom

to apply.

These borahs are of Arab origin, and dress in the

costume

of

their

country.

Ismaeliah, from one of the

They

many

call

themselves

followers of

Mo-

310

BORED BY A BORAH.

hammed, who

lived in

immediately suc-

the age

ceeding that of the prophet; and as they are amusing

in their conversation, and have acquired the art of
flattery,

ladies,

they are great favourites with some English

and often succeed

running away with the

in

greater part of their pin-money in gew-gaws and

They never

native ornaments.

will believe that

are poor, or unable to purchase their goods

generally

end

" English saib very rich

to

by saying,

persuasions

their

always have

anxiety to learn

he

all

remember one of them boring me

relating to

me

whether

it

hummals

saib had told

home.

him they

upon

were really true

land without

and that the

did,

Company's steam

iron rails from one

another at the rate of sixty miles an hour.

him

that

it

(palanquin-bearers), as

carriages they used were like the

packets, and ran

at

the

for about three

own

that Englishmen travel in their

some

money

the most extraordinary questions

England

horses, bullocks, or

that

can respecting

manners and customs of the English

hours by asking

little

and

The borah shows

buy something of poor borah."

much

you

was even so

illustrating

my

town

to

I told

description

and

after

showing him

that the motive power was the

same

in both cases,

of a railway by a diagram

he,

with

the

assistance

thoroughly comprehended

of

the

this,

drawing, at last

to him, hitherto in-

A DRUNKEN CAPTAIN.

He

explicable wonder.

inquire

seemed

about ray

in revealing to

In

engine.

when he

call

passed,

and

and

the trouble which I had taken

him the mysteries of a locomotive

the borahs

fact,

appear to thirst

all

knowledge, and are easily instructed.

after

The
the

never forgot to

health

much

to feel

311

my

tent on

army and

left

was occupied by a captain in

his family.

It

was a very handsome

double-poled one, and covered a large portion of the

compound.

Beautifully picturesque

it

upon, but miserable and wretched were

The captain was a man of

was
its

to look

occupants.

the most dissipated habits,

and his poor wife and innocent children were treated

like brute beasts

How

by

this

monster in human form.

he ever retained his commission, leading the

dissipated

life

a miracle,

for,

which he appeared to do, was to

he was perfectly

like all drunkards,

careless of public opinion.

me

I think

it

was only

my

second evening on the esplanade, when I was disturbed

by the most

pitiful

of a female

cries

distress calling loudly for assistance

found that the voice proceeded

I ran out,

in

and

from the captain's

when, to

my

amazement, the whole of one side was forced

out,

tent

and was

and the poor

were leaping

about

to

enter

lady, followed

off the tops

it,

by her children who

of drawers and tables to

escape from their father's fury,

made towards my

312
tent

PEDRO.
;

the children,

many

of

them

half naked, taking

This tragedy was

shelter with the cadets above me.

often enacted, and

him

report

more than once

I felt inclined to

as a nuisance to the

at head-quarters

neighbourhood, but I thought the poor family would

I have recalled

in this case be the greatest sufferers.

it

to

memory simply

results

as affording an instance of the

which often follow those unhappy marriages,

which in India too commonly take place between

English

and

officers

here observe, that

occur

by the

generally cut

and may

when such unfortunate unions

armv, both husband

the

in

women

half-caste

officers

and

wife are

the

regiment to

little

expense, for

of

which they are attached.

With some
furniture

is

my

to get

trouble,

and but

reasonably cheap in Bombay, I contrived

little

tent snugly fitted

up

Pedro,

my

Portuguese boy, appearing to take great interest in

arranging these

matters to

was a

thin, slim lad, of

with

short,

my

satisfaction.

about eighteen years of age,

winning expression of countenance,

curly, jet-l)lack

was of Orleans

cloth,

His

hair.

favourite

of

some of the

I often envied

and
dress

and on Sundays and high days

he exhibited a very showy lace front to his

which piece of

He

finery,

he

said,

had been the work

old nuns in his native

him two good

shirt,

gifts

town of Goa.

which he possessed

LETTERS FROM HOME.

in perfection

313

splendid set of pearly white

teetli,

and the sweetest temper that boy was ever blessed

He was

with.

and truly honest

conscientious,

and, unless on occasion of a wedding, or a funeral

of

some

relation

he certainly appeared to have

for

a good number of stray cousins

to go from home, except

he

seldom wished

were to mass, or the

it

church service held in the neighbouring town.

Altogether, I was very well contented with this

new way

The evenings were

of living.

and often tedious

long,

but

my

certainly

health improved,

and I contrived to pass them happily, by writing,

and

in

company with

proach one
I

was

books

instructive

fully

occupied.

time for reflection

separated from
cast

those friends that never re-

all

and the

One

me

night,

that kept

Pedro on one
of

my

the

England

the solitude of

my

side,

being

shadow across

my

path,

were alone in the world.

was

flickering in the

number

humming around

received from

bitter idea of

was poring (by the aid of a

cocoa-nut-oil lamp, that

in consequence of

much

was near and dear to me,

that

feel as if I

as I

and during the day

perhaps too

had

occasionally its dark

and made

it)

drowsy beetles

over some old letters

having

little

of

air,

nothing to disturb

home, save the snoring of

and the heavy, uneasy breathing

cook on the other

for they

both slept be-

AX ILL-FAVOURED NOCTURNAL

314
tween

passages

the

of

the

tent,

VISITOR.

and had

themselves up an hour or two previously

tion

my

atten-

was rather suddenly arrested by observing the

door-way, of

fly, or'

one

oji

rolled

sitting-room gently

by the hand,

side,

moment, a

for the

felt,

my

moved

as I thought, of a

alarmed

little

man.

but not

again observing the circumstance, went on with the

my

perusal of

letters

fancying that the

movement

by a current of

might have been occasioned

air

passing under the canvas from the sea-shore.

The Cathedral had

tolled out the

some ten minutes before

couch for
of the

there
his

X)

when again

rest,

fly,

and

and I was preparing

I detected the

called out,

when an

^^

Carmunta,

As

my

movement

(Who

is

ill-favoured-looking scoundrel put

head and shoulders inside the

a salaam.

hour of eleven

tent,

was a time of night

it

and made me

at

which

had

never before been visited by any of the natives, I was

appearance of the

at a loss to account for the strange

man

and involuntarily grasping a small dirk-knife

which lay on

my

both

called loudly to

were with

me

light sleepers,

man had by

writing-desk as a paper cutter, I

my

servants

in a second they

for native servants in India are very

and are aroused in a moment.

this

time walked in

down, seemed surprised to see

must

confess I was.

Pedro,

and

me

The

after squatting

so agitated, as I

who was more alarmed

THE RAMOOSIE.

315

than I expected he would have been, after bringing

the lamp to bear upon his features, recognized

once as the ranwosie

and how he dared

at

at

who guarded my drunken neighThe cook inquired

compound.

bour's

him

to intrude himself

that unseasonable hour.

his errand,

upon

his

master

His answer was, that

my tent, he
my property

unless I hired one of his people to guard

would not answer

for the

another night

it

do so

saibs to

him

safety of

was customary

that

and that

if T

for all English

would promise to give

half the usual wages, three rupees a month, he

would look

As

after

my

tent as well as the captain's.

I had never before heard anything about these

ramoosies, I asked Pedro

were the truth

I agreed for the

and

if

what the man told

me

as he confirmed his statements,

sum named, and

dismissed him.

After passing a rather uneasy night, the following

morning I

sallied out early into the Fort, to consult

a friend with respect to the hasty promise which I had

He

made.

told

me

had acted quite rightly

and

that if T did not keep a ramoosie, I should assuredly

be robbed

in short, that

nobody

lived in tents

on

the esplanade, or, in fact, anywhere in India, without

them

and so ended the matter

Four or

five

mornings

after this

who had got up

earlier

the present.

unexpected

was rather roughly awakened, just

Pedro,

for

visit,

at daybreak,

by

than usual, and who

31

AM ROBBED.

had discovered, that the tent

liad

been entered during

the night, and that every portable article which

contained had been carried

He wrung

an enchanter.

as if

by the hand of

hands

in the greatest

off,

his

now

sorrow, as he fully expected I should

and dispense with

living in tents,

hastened to

and

forks,

within

by the

had departed.

for,

first

thought turned to

never restore.

The

By

a mere accident,

up a

it

money could
had escaped

thieves had actually stepped over

the opening which they had

pulling

tent

m}'"

besides the few rupees I possessed,

contained some remembrances that

notice.

Articles

camp-bed on which I was

My

thieves.

writing-desk
it

of the

all

had been cautiously removed, and carried

sleeping,
off

services.

glasses, knives

Pots, pans,

true.

and books
foot

his

give up

and found, upon inspection, that

rise,

was too

his tale

it

made

for themselves,

it

by

pin or two, being immediately

behind the valued desk.

Unfortunately, I was not the only sufferer, for
the marauders had decamped with

robe

my

cook's ward-

and he certainly bestowed upon them some

remarkable Portuguese denunciations, for robbing, as

he

said, a

poor fellow like him.

had been more favoured

for he

every night, after the ramoosie's

Pedro, as I found,

had taken good

visit,

to put

care,

all

his

valuables under his bedding, arid, in particular, had

EOBBERY COMMON IN BOMBAY.

made

317

My

a pillow of his Orleaus suit.

cups and

saucers having accompanied the tea-kettle and teapot,

I was necessitated to beg a breakfast from a neigh-

who

bouring gentleman,

did not appear the least

my

surprised on hearing of

He

losses.

said

it

was an

Bombay, but advised me

every-night occurrence in

to give information to the head of the police force,

which I did

but,

from that day to

heard anything more about the

though

was pretty well

reported
often

my

door to

lived next

in

Bombay

implicated

in

these

regular systematic plan

detection,

money

thought

As

the

that

is

it

property,

stolen

that the thief

satisfied

tent.

I never

this,

is

it

native

robberies,

commonly
police

are

and that a

followed up to prevent

but

of time

loss

and

to pursue this investigation further,

though

I did cause a district in the native town,

known

as the " thieves' bazaar," to be well searched.

The amount of property annually

bay being

really

enormous,

gang of professed thieves

strong

arm

of the law.

any of these midnight

it is

is

stolen in

astonishing that this

not put

Any

down by

the

attempt to capture

visitors yourself, is quite out

They enter your dwelling

of the question.

Bom-

perfectly

naked, with their bodies well smeared over with

cocoa-nut
or

oil

and any one daring enough

wound them,

is

said to

to shoot

become a marked man

AN EXPOSURE.

318

and though years may intervene, you

live in

dread

of ultimately falling a sacrifice to the smouldering

revenge of these town Thugs.

Since the above was written, great interest has

Bombay by an

been excited in

investigation of the

According to the Bombay

conduct of the police.

Times, the heads of almost every department in the

establishment have become so deeply involved with

natives within their jurisdiction, as to be open to the

The

gravest imputations.

chief magistrate exercised

no supervision or control over the

any separate

others,

Government property was

records.

members of the

sold to the chief creditors of the

establishment at half the price

others.

The cash thus

secured,

a box, into which were thrust

perty which

into

fell

the goods,

the key

of pro-

<fec.,

and no one

no account was kept of

and a very small proportion of them

of the

property just referred

1846

up

accounted

by

it

was thrown into

seem ever to have been accounted

for

all varieties

specie,
;

offered

hands of the police

the

money, watches, jewels,

knew who kept

nor kept

to
for.

the

to

present time

for.

The

price

was received
it

has

in

not been

Tenders made four years since by

intending purchasers of police-property remain

still

by the

chief

magistrate and remained for years unserved.

One

unopened.

Warrants

were

issued

THE LAND WE LIVE

native employe was

influential

319

IN.

known

to keep an

extensive gambling establishment, where gambling

was

day seen by the police to be

at all hours of the

in progress

no one

Crimes of

interfering.

were hushed up and compounded for

seem

of the subordinates

all

kinds

and the whole

to have been in the last

" Such," observes the editor, " has

degree corrupt.

been the system prevailing for years in the commercial capital of Bengal, under the very nose of

government

Is

it

to be

wondered

at that belief in

the corruption of the provisional police and police

courts should be almost universal

And now
cences of

"
1

my

I think I have exhausted

Bombay and

down my pen with

its

regret,

beautiful islands.

and

if

my

volume, which I have experienced in

amply repaid

for

I lay

readers derive

my

but half the pleasure from the perusal of

I shall feel

reminis-

its

little

composition,

any labour which

it

may

have occasioned me.

In conclusion I would express

younger readers more

its

other

satisfied

of

that

my

with the land they

I would fain believe, that though England

live in.

has

hope,

may make some

" Recollections "

these

my

snows and

discomforts,

finding

fault,

there

its

long winters,

its

with which we are

are

fogs

and

constantly

many, nevertheless,

who

320

GLITTERING BUT DELUSIVE.

would not

willingly resign its solid advantages

real enjoyments,

for all the glittering pleasures of

the far-famed East

after

all,

and

half of which pleasures must,

be confessed to

owe

their attraction chiefly

to the illusions of imagination.

APPENDIX.

I.

The

following letter of advice,

On

Folly

the

and

Danger of Loading ChiMren luith Valuable Oma/ments,

by Narayan Dinnanatbji, Marathi

preme Court, Bombay,

by many of

my

The general
tants of

this

Interpreter, Su-

will be perused with interest

English readers

practice existing

country, of

among

the inhabi-

adorning their children

with gold and other valuable ornaments, having, in

numerous

instances, led to the perpetration of the

most heinous and atrocious

down from our

marks upon the

crimes,

has

enlightened press the severest refolly

and danger of such a custom

and even the bench has not been wanting

expressions to

brought

its

in giving

mingled feelings of surprise and

322

APPENDIX.
that

regret,

so

fraught with mischief

force,

notwithstanding that

practice

should remaiii in

full

numerous instances of

its frightful

consequences have

occurred.

On
falls

every occasion that an innocent helpless child

a victim to the cupidity of a wicked and heart-

less fellow-being, all classes of the

the greatest of the Shets that

carriages,

down

community, from

move about

in stately

to the poorest citizen that

is

obliged

to toil in the streets to earn his daily bread

who spends

the most learned Brahmin

the most

ignorant

from

the greatest

portion of his time in the study of the

the Shastras, to

Veda and

of

the com-

monalty that cannot even write his own name

say, all of them,

who have any knowledge

woeful occurrences, hold discussions

of these

among them-

on the enormous crimes the hateful custom

selves

has given rise

folly

to, are for

the time convinced of the

and dangerous consequences of the

and regret from the very bottom of

that

it

this

is

should have existed

only the

feelings.

No

among them

temporary

practice,

their
at

excitement

all.

of

hearts

But
their

sooner have a few months, nay, even

weeks, rolled over the woeful and atrocious event,

than the feelings of astonishment and horror that

had

for a

time completely taken possession of their

minds, gradui.lly subside,

till

at last the frightful

ON LOADING CHILDREN WITH ORNAMENTS. 323

fact

is

altogether forgotten, and those very people

whose humane

had been shocked

feelings

atrocity of the crimes arising

from

at

the

this reprehen-

and who had been a short while ago

sible practice,

convinced of the folly of keeping up

among them

such a dangerous custom, cease to utter a single

syllable

about the subject, and the baneful custom

among them

continues to prevail

to

as great

an

extent as ever, without even a single voice being

raised against

it.

Such are the general

facts

custom, and such the state of

whom

kept up

regarding this

evil

mind of those among

and I do not think any of

you here present upon

this occasion, will consider it

it

is

far

away from the

my

firm and decided opinion, that the state of

truth, if I

of the elder sons of India

is

were to give you, as

mind

such, that as long as

they continue to exercise any influence on the state

of our society,
will ever

no great reformation of

take place

this

custom

and that we should therefore

look for the much-desired innovation, to that portion

of

our rising generation that will be blessed

by

Providence with the benefits of a liberal education,

which

will liberate

their

minds from the shackles

of this and other similar foolish practices, and teach

them
in

to think that that custom, at least,

no way have even a shadow of

which can

religious sanction,

324
and

APPENDIX.
is

the

at

same time fraught with such

consequences, ought above

all

evil

things to engage their

serious attention with a view to its entire discon-

tinuance.

When,

therefore,

I was called upon, some time

ago, to produce an essay, agreeably to the rules of

this society, I

thought of

this subject, which,

though

not of equal importance with other questions that

have engaged our attention, possesses, I should hope,

no common
This

interest for us.

custom

is

not,

like

Chemistry,

the

wise

daughter of a foolish mother, but, on the contrary,

it

is

the foolish daughter of a wise mother.

searching for
it

origin,

its

back to the parental

we can very

affection,

In

easily trace

which our benevo-

lent Creator has so wisely implanted in our breast

with a view to the preservation and multiplication

of

The Father of

our species.

the universe has

not confined this important affection to the

The same benevolent motive

species alone.

has actuated

human

Him

to confer this blessing

has likewise induced

Him

to extend

it

that

upon man,
to

most of

the lower animals.

This affection for children seems to have gradually

degenerated
decorate

in

our country into

them with

valuable

an

ornaments.

anxiety

to

But, by

our following this custom, we have in some measure

ON LOADING CHILDREN WITH ORNAMENTS. 325

By

defeated the very object of our wise Maker.

our

ignorance, and vanity,

folly,

we have converted

Supreme Being has implanted

an

affection that the

in

our hearts for the express purpose of the pre-

servation of our offspring,

show and

into love for

which tends in no small measure to their

finery,

In European and other countries,

very destruction.

where

this

does

practice

evil

not exist, there

is

scarcely an instance to be found of a child being

murdered

while in our country, where the custom

prevails, there

have been numerous cases of child-

happening

murders,

on

account

temptations the custom in

evil-disposed persons to

the

strong

question holds out

We

commit them.

heard instances in which

enticed

of

little

to

have

children have been

away by designing rogues from

their sweet

homes, and murdered by them in the most cruel

manner

possible, in

some dark corner of the town,

solely

with the view of possessing themselves

their

ornaments

and, horrible

to

say,

of

instances

have not been wanting in which the very domestic

servants of the family, in the receipt of

monthly

a small

pittance, have acted similarly, yielding to

the strong

momentary temptation of enriching them-

selves at once.

Child-murders, which this practice gives rise

to,

are not generally such as are effected in a speedy

326

APPENDIX.

manner, with some

effective

which the unfortunate victim

by a

weapon, by means of
is

deprived of

single stroke or so, without giving

unnecessary pain

it

much

but are in most cases committed

most brutal manner

in the

its life,

No

possible.

sooner

is

the victim conveyed to a secure place, than, in order

to silence
/ordbli/

ensues

once,

at

it

rammed down

its throat,

The only

possible to describe.

have now in view,

is

of doth

is

and the scene that

heart-rending to relate, and

is

ruffians

coarse piece

almost im-

object the bloody

to p9ssess themselves

of the jewels on the person of their helpless victim

in

the

manner

most rapid

may

cruciating the pain

of

it

Should the child happen to have

ornaments.

ear-rings

be that they occasion by

and merciless mode of stripping

their careless
all

however ex-

possible,

and a nose-ring, they are seldom taken out

in the ordinary

manner, but are forcibly pulled out

of those delicate parts of the body, leaving

a lacerated, bleeding, and painful

state.

them

When

in

the

innocent victim has massive bangles and anklets on

its

person,

case,
sters,

which

is

we have heard
with

operation, have

view

unfortunately very often the

of instances in which the
of

facilitating

their

mon-

infernal

resorted to the cruel expedient of

severing those limbs, and that, too, with the most

blunt and

awkward weapons, giving

in the course

ON LOADING CHILDEEN WITH ORNAMENTS. 327

of this shocking mangling the

most excruciating

pain to their victim.

Now, permit me

to ask

you whether we are to

allow our dear innocent children to be thus decorated for ever,

as

so

many

pretty lambs used in

and now and then to

sacrifices,

victims to the

fall

rapacity of needy and cruel ruffians, without taking

into our consideration
evil

be

any measure to prevent the

Shall these atrocious

still

by us

and heart-rending deeds

committed without the

least effort

being made

remove the cause that leads to

to

their per-

Shall the press proclaim in vain the

petration?

numerous instances of monstrous cruelty

on

helpless

beings, without

little

inflicted

raising

in

shame?

breast feelings of horror, compassion, and

horror at the atrocity of the deed

itself,

compassion

and shame

for the sufferings of the innocent victims,

for our not

our

having yet taken a single step to remedy

the enormous evil

Shall the bench be allowed to

appeal to our heads and hearts, from time to time,

without inciting us to the exercise of the virtue

which our merciful and benevolent Creator has so

wisely implanted in our minds
this, that

the love of

show and

so predominant in our hardened

that

we

sacrifice

scruple not to gratify

of

the

lives

Or,

is

come

it

finery has

and corrupt
it

to

become
hearts,

at the occasional

of our dear

little

children?

328

APPENDIX.
I most anxiously hope, that

I sincerely trust not.

that inherent though

now

not be allowed to

dormant and

lie

hearts for ever, but will

suppressed

virtue

inactive in our

more burst

once

will

into a

glowing flame.
the most cruel

Is not the horrible instance of

death inflicted on the son of a respectable Hindoo

in this

island,

and that

too,

as if

to

inflict

still

deeper and more smarting wounds in the hearts of

his unfortunate parents, a few days before the joyful

one appointed for the celebration of his marriage,

coupled with the circumstances of his arms and legs

having been tied tightly down under his

of cloth thrust

large piece
his

hands chopped

off,

down

the

belly,

into his throat,

more conveniently

to

take off his gold bangles, and his whole body being
otherwise so frightfully mangled as to render

most unsightly object to look

this reprehensible

manner

the barbarous

murdered

is

not

all

the
this

induce us to adopt energetic measures

suflScient to

to abolish

at

it

last

in

custom?

Shall not

which a Brahmin boy was

year on Walkeshwar Hill, rouse us

from our wonted lethargy and make us cry loud

against

this

obnoxious practice

Shall not these

instances of unparalleled atrocity, joined to

others that have preceded them,

make

numerous

us ashamed

of our past indifference in a matter of such vital

ON LOADING CHILDREN WITH ORNAMENTS. 329

importance to the well-being

make

remedy

for applying a suitable

in our

our

way

of our attempts to accom-

Does any doctrine of

it

denounce even a sentence of

heterodoxy against those

strictly

No

satisfactorily

who

fail

to follow the cus-

on the contrary,

mean

the

Hindoo

religion,

to lead to such a heinous

is

it

can be most

shown, that the doctrines of our

to discountenance this evil practice,

By

with valuable

adorning our children

of

jewellery? or does

ligion, I

when

it is

and incapability to
a Brahmin,

who

found

crime as child-murder.
life

of a child

held very sacred indeed, on account of

To murder

re-

have a tendency

the spirit of these doctrines the

lessness

the

enjoin us to adhere religiously to

our creed

we

throw even the shadow

plish this laudable object?

tom

evil

great obstacle have

religion

of an obstacle in the

practice

an existing

that sordid practice of decorating

Does our

to

which has insensibly grown into a

children,

custom

What

way beyond

measures

once to take active

us resolve at

of such magnitude

our society, and

of

do harm to

its

help-

others.

has devoted himself to

the study of the sacred works, and employed most

of his

time

in

inculcating

moral doctrines, and

spreading the means of salvation

is

considered

away the

life

more wicked and

of one

who

among
sinful

the people,

than to take

has spent his

life

less

V.
330

APPENDIX.
Again, with a due

usefully for his fellow-beings.

regard to the

women,
of

life

its

is

held

more

is

considered

condition of

woman

sinful to deprive a

than even a holy Brahmin

a child
of

it

comparatively helpless

still

more

and

to

murder

sinful again, because

innocence and incapability of defending

against the unprovoked attacks of others.

itself

Can a

which denounces such heavy punish-

religion, then,

ments upon the heads of those who are guilty of

child-murder, be for a

moment

coun-

8uj)posed to

tenance any event to tolerate a practice which, in

numerous

instances, leads to this

in the eye of our

With

these

themselves to

Holy Writings

observations,

me on

most heinous

offence

have

that

suggested

beg to leave the

this subject, I

matter for your consideration, with a sanguine hope

that

the

opinions

expressed

herein

will

find

favourable response in the heart of every one of

my

friends present this evening.

II.

The

following: account of the

Mohurrum

taken from an Indian paper, and the

Calenda/r

and Almanack,

The Mohurrum
tranquillity,

for

Festival

no attempt

1851

Festival

Bombay

is

Tiines

closed

in

peace

and

at rioting or disturbance of

any kind having been made during the ten days

THE MOHURRUM FESTIVAL.

over which

it

On Monday

lasted.

331

night, the 3rd,

the Taboots were carried in procession and paraded

the principal streets of the native town as usual,

from midnight until about three o'clock next morn-

and

flambeaux

never remember to

have seen

accompanied by music,

ing,

We

innumerable.

flags,

the streets so thronged on any previous occasion.

Multitudes

whom

nations

all

excepting

assembled

to witness the gorgeous sight,

at about half-past twelve

hibited one

the most

of

witnessed in India, and

brilliant

it

" cunning limner "

is

are

crowds to view

surprised

that

pageants to be

to be regretted

that

was not present to take

down on canvas; a panorama

attract

on Monday

o'clock

Bhendy Bazaar road ex-

the scene on the

night,

some

of

Parsees,

not one was to be seen in the route of the

procession

and

of

of this sight would

even in Bombay, and

it

it

some enterprising

artist

we
has

never yet attempted to delineate on canvas a series

of

our numerous native

their exhibition at

The

principal

parties of

festivals,

with a view to

home.
Taboots were followed by small

mounted

police,

accompanying

whom we

observed a sprinkling of the Governor's body-guard.

Although there

could not

have been

one hundred thousand persons of

and nations, joined in

this

all

immense

fewer than

castes, creeds,

procession, the

v_
332

APPENDIX.

greatest order prevailed,

could be observed.
trate of Police

slightest

tumult

Mr. Spens, the senior Magis-

Mr. LeGeyt, one of her Majesty's

who

Justices of the Peace,

to assist in

and not the

volunteered his services

maintaining order

Captain Baynes,

the Superintendent of Police, and Captain French,

Town

!Major,

were most conspicuous in their

to preserve order

The most
structed

and regularity in the procession.

beautiful

between ten and twelve

musicians

the

that

con-

This Taboot alone had

thousand followers.

(kettle-drums)

were

was

the Tazias

of

by the butchers.

"nagarras"

efforts

best

were

the

trained,

loudest,

its

its

immediate

attendants the most numerous and wealthy, and

banners the gayest of the whole.

Its

its

The burning of

blue-lights at intervals in front of the Taboots, the

flashing

back of the

lights

from the many hundred

torches which surrounded them, while

was almost dark (the moon being

far

all

around

on the wane

about 2 A.M.) the wild music and the gay attire

of the

Moslem

host,

gave to the procession

all

the

appearance of a gorgeous dramatic entertainment

got up in the best style of the age.

Picquets from the several native regiments were
stationed at the Green Market, Mr. Rennie's Stables
in the

the

Bhendy Bazaar,

at Pydonee, the Esplanade,

Mombadavee Chowkey, and near

the Null.

As

THE MOHURRUM FESTIVAL.

numbers of Parsees

reside in

the

333

neighbourhood

of the ISTacoda's street and the Green Market, the

Taboots were prevented from passing through those

This led to an unpleasant disaster about

streets.

one o'clock in the morning, when two large Taboots

arrived at Pydonee, close to the Jain Temple, where

roads branch off to Calbadavee, the Green

three

Nacoda

Market, and

Taboots were anxious to parade the latter

these

Mohammed

past the house of the late

street,

Kogay, whose memory

the

The attendants on

street.

is

held in great respect by

Mohammedan community,

by the

Ali

but being prevented

Police, the carriers of the

Taboots made a

rush to get past them, on which one of these beau-

ground, by which
rials

toppled

constructions

tiful

of which

it

it

over and

fell

was much injured

was made being

to

the

the

mate-

chiefly glass

and

The bearers of the other Taboot, supposing

talc.

that an attack

was being made upon them,

confusion incident on the falling of

threw
crowd.

it

on the ground, and ran

Fortunately

it

met with

its

in the

companion,

off

amongst the

little

or no injury.

This accident caused an immediate stoppage of the

procession,

vailed

and much excitement and confusion pre-

amongst the crowd

mob blamed
that

it

for a short

time.

The

the Police for the disaster, and insisted

had been purposely caused by them.

Loud

334

APPENDIX.

cries of "

Deen

turbance was,
to arise.

it

Deen

"

were

raised,

dis-

was feared by the by-standers, about

It fortunately

happened that Mr. Spens

and Mr. LeGeyt were on the spot

at the time of

harmony was

the accident, and by their joint efforts

These gentlemen, with an

restored in a short time.

intrepidity

and

which

them the

does

greatest credit,

threw themselves into the midst of the crowd, and,

being thoroughly acquainted with the character and

language of the people

whom

they were addressing,

very quickly satisfied them that their

The

their obedience.

lay in

only safety

Taboots were

fallen

once more raised on men's shoulders and carried off

in procession

as

before.

In the

one

parties of the military

and an

other of a like

consisting of fifty

men

78th Highlanders, and the

the

officer of

mean time two

number of the 14th regiment Native

Infantry, under an

European

officer,

were brought to

the spot and formed across the two streets through

which the Taboots were prevented from passing.

With

the

exception

of this

little

unpleasantness,

nothing whatever occurred to disturb the order of

the several processions.

No

violence of any kind

any one during the whole night, and

was

offered to

the

Police sheets next

morning contained nothing

beyond the ordinary number of

one of which, so

far as

we can

nection with the Mohurrum.

assault cases
learn,

not

had any con-

THE MOHURRUAI FESTIVAL.

335

As an account of the origin and objects of this

festival may be interesting to the general reader, we
following succinct description of

re-publish the

it

from the Bombay Times Calendar and Almanack,

1851

for

"

The Mohurrum

held

is

a celebrated mourning

annually in remembrance of the

of the Mussulmans

festival,

martyrs

first

Hassein and Hossein, the

eldest

sons of Fatima and Ali, from

whom

of the Syuds has generated.

Hassein was poisoned

the whole race

by an emissary of the usurping Calipha, and Hossein,

the last victim of the descendants of the Prophet's

family to the

King

of Yuseed's fury, suffered a cruel

most severe

death, after the

trials,

on the plain of

Kurballa, on the tenth day of the Arabian

month

Mohurrum, the anniversary of which catastrophe

solemnized with the most devoted

is

zeal.

" Hassein and Hossein were, as above stated, the

two sons of
of

Ali,

Mohammed

by
and

his cousin Fatima, the daughter

after the

murder of

their father

by the contrivances of the Calipha, they with

families

removed from Shawn, the

capital, to

their

Medina.

After residing there for several years, the people of

Shawn, being
rule,

tired

of

King Yuseed's

tyrannical

invited Hossein to return to the capital,

take up his lawful right as

Faithful).

Emaum

and

(Leader of the

Before accepting this invitation, Hossein

336

APPENDIX.

sent Moslem, his cousin, as messenger, to report the

true state of affairs to
his

two sons

at

him

but on his arrival with

Shawn, he was seized by order of

King Yuseed, and

from a precipice, and

his

two innocent sons were barbarously murdered,

for

the sake of

tlie

cast

reward offered for their heads.

This forms the subject of the ten days' bewailing

during the Mohurrum.

Mohammedans

Tlie

are

divided into two distinct sects, called the Sheas and

the

The former

Soonies.

descendants to be their lawful leaders

hammed, and

leaders to be accredited

and

ties,

dislikes,

Omar,

thence

his

after

Mo-

that

the

are persuaded

the latter

Caliphas, as Aboubuker,

and

Ali

believe

are the only

(fee,

quarrels, animosi-

are hoarded up, to be

avenged

during the Mohurrum.

"

The

Festival begins

(Mohurrum).
applied

to

on the

made

day of the moon

Tazias (a term signifying grief, and

representation

erected over the remains of

balla)

first

of

Amam

the

Mausoleum

Hossein, at Kur-

of ivory, ebony, sandalwood, cedar, and

some wrought

in

silver

fillagree,

and, indeed, of

every variety of material from pure silver to bamboo

and paper, according to the rank and wealth of the

party, are exhibited in every direction,
in procession through the streets.

semblies

are

held

morning and

and conveyed

Mourning
evening,

in

as-

the

THE MOHURRUM FESTIVAL.

during

Emambarrali,

the

Mohurrum

337
and

the

priest or preacher recites a subject for each

head

day's service,

from the various books composed on

the subject, descriptive of the

life

and

sufferings of

The Murseeah, a

Hassein and Hossein.

poetical

composition of great merit, and embracing

meet

they

subjects

with great

effect

to

commemorate,

the names of their lawful leaders

of

their

Then comes

the Caliphas, with curses.

usurpers,

chaunted

is

with blessings, and those

are recounted

the

all

the procession of

Dhul Dhul, the name of Hossein's

horse killed

Kurballa, beautifully caparisoned

and

finally

hurrum

with funeral

the Tazias are deposited

when

in the public burial grounds,

rites

"

at

Mo-

the

ceases, until the return of another year.

The Taboot

is

a mausoleum, covered and orna-

in the shape of

mented

with

a slight frame-work of bamboo,

coloured

paper ^ and

tinsel,

and

is

designed to represent the mausoleum built over the

remains

of the

slaughtered

considerably in size

of

of

them

is

is

performed.
India.

who

build them.

the representation of

Hassein and Hossein.

incense

They vary

and appearance, according to

the taste and ability of those

some

Hossein.

Before

the

In

tomb

these Taboots,

burned, and various other rites are also

The Taboots,

it

is said,

are peculiar to

They, of course, are not mentioned in the

338

APPENDIX.

Koran, and they are not built either by the inhabi-

Many Mohammedans
regard them with strong disapprobation.
In Bombay, the larger portion of the Mohammedans unite
tants of Persia or Arabia.

These are taken out, and,

in building the Taboots.

accompanied

with

music,

carried

procession

in

through the Bhendy Bazaar, from midnight of the

ninth until 3 o'clock of the morning of the tenth
day, and from 2 to 6 o'clock on the afternoon of

the same day, on their

way

Back

to the beach in

Bay, where the greater part of the Taboots, after

being stripped of whatever was possessed of value,

are cast into the sea.

"The practice
ground

in

united in

of building Taboots seems to be losing

Bombay, a portion of those who formerly

this,

having adopted the views of those

opposed to such things.

who do
tomed

The Indian Mohammedans,

not unite in building the Taboots, are accus-

to

go on

this occasion to the

mosques

for five

successive evenings, to listen to the account of the

death of Hossein.

Their demonstrations of

grief,

however, are not equal to those of the Moguls and

Persians, who, while listening to the recital,

aloud and smite violently upon their breasts.

are accustomed to meet in the Musjid, a
east

of the

American Mission

Baboola tank, in Mirza

Mahomed

little

Chapel,

Ali

weep
These

to the

near the

Khan

street.

THE MOHURRUM FESTIVAL.

In Bombay, there

is,

strictly speaking,

tion of the battle which

death of Hossein.

339

no representa-

was fought previous to the

Some two

three horsemen

or

bearing flags enter the large yard adjoining the

Emambarrah, with loud

wailings,

by two horses caparisoned

were for the use of the

and are followed

to represent those which

One person

fallen Hossein.

on horseback, with a long sword apparently run

through the head and covered with blood, joins in
the wailings.
sitting at the

carried

female infant in deep mourning

door of a small mausoleum, which

on the shoulders of men, constantly

ashes or cut straw

upon her head

These pass round in a

by the company on
crying,

'hai

casts

in token of grief.

accompanied or followed

circle,

foot,

is

who

beat upon their breasts,

Hassein, hai Hassein.'

Sometimes a

person represented in a dying state, his body covered

with wounds and blood, and darts and daggers run

into

it, is

carried about in the procession."

The procession of the horse

Monday night was

also

at the

Emambarrah on

on a very grand

was attended by the whole of the Sheah

scale,

and

sect of the

Mohammedans resident in Bombay. By the politeness

of Mitza Mahomed Ali Khan, a number of European
gentlemen were invited to be present at the cere-

monies on

this occasion.

On Tuesday the

4th, the

Taboots were brought out

340

APPENDIX.

and paraded through the

for the last time

streets in

the same manner as on the previous night, and be-

tween four and six o'clock

of them, to the

number of

in the evening the

fifty

whole

or thereabouts, were

taken and cast into the sea at Back Bay, after having

been stripped of their

finery.

The

largest Taboots

were those of the butchers, the Sepoys of the Marine

Battalion,

and the 6th Regiment Native Infantry.

The whole

went

affair

off very quietly,

and no

dis-

turbance of any kind took place, although some badly

disposed Parsees residing in a street near the market
place^ did all they could to

provoke one by throwing

stones from the windows at the Taboots of the Siddees

as they passed along.
for a short time,

This caused some confusion

and the Mussulmans were a good

deal exasperated at this misconduct on the part of

the Parsees.

strong body of police happened to

be at hand, which overawed the mob, and by the

timely interference of Captain Ba}'nes and the Magistrates then

on the spot order was soon restored, and

the procession passed peaceably on towards the beach.

The

police entered the houses from

whence the stones

were thrown and took down the names of

mates, who,
transgression.

we

trust,

The

will

the in-

be punished for their

countless thousands

panied the Taboots to their

all

who accom-

last resting-place,

dis-

THE MOHURRUM FESTIVAL.

341

persed immediately after these were deposited in the

sea.

To show

that these festivals do not always pass

off so quietly,

we

extract the following from a

Bom-

bay paper.

The Mohammedan festival of the Mohurrum

"

sions

among

that sect in India a degree of fanatic re-

ligious excitement
life

occa-

which frequently occasions

loss of

in the cities of the native states.

In the Company's

armed processions

are not allowed,

the

territories

and the population

is

generally kept in check during

the festival by precautionary measures on the part of

the police authorities.

Notwithstanding such pre-

men have been set upon and cut to

pieces during the recent Mohurrum at Bombay. The
affair arose out of a schism in a sect of Mohammedans
called Kojahs, who had a club-house in a suburb of
Bombay called Mahim. The Kojahs were converted
to Mohammedanism about two centuries since by a
cautions, four

Persian prince, an alleged descendant of

Khan) has
self

up

as

recently arrived at

head of the

sect,

to lay under contribution.

whom (Aga

Bombay, and

set

him-

which he has endeavoured

About

half the sect have

acquiesced in his claims, the other half resist them.

The Aga's

followers have long been anxious to dis-

possess their rivals of the upper

room

in their joint

342

APPENDIX.

club-house at Mabim, and during

Mobumim,

tlie

great day of tbe

while the bulk of the population and

all

of the police were engaged in the procession of the

Taboots to the
ers,

sea- beach, a

body of the Aga's follow-

some of them armed with swords, proceeded

to

the club-house and literally hacked to pieces four of

the chief
there.

men

At

of the opposite party

whom

they found

the coroner's inquest a verdict of 'Wilful

murder' was returned against twenty, nineteen of

whom

are in custody,

and have been committed

for

trial."

THE END.

BATH

PRINTED BX BINN8 AND GOODWIN.

//

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