Homemade Rowing Machine

For the handyman or woman who wants to stay fit, here is an easy-to-build
homemade rowing machine. Originally published as "HAMMER-AND-NAIL
FITNESS" in the December/January 1999 issue of MOTHER EARTH NEWS.
December 1998/January 1999

http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/homemade-rowing-machine-zmaz98djzraw
By Graeme Knight

The homemade rowing machine looks something like this when finished.
ILLUSTRATION: RODNEY A. OKYNE
Comedy, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. I find humor less in the frantic arm
wavings and screechings of sitcom actors than I do in the infomercials that plague
nearly every TV station from time to time. My favorites, hands-down, are those
shilling the head-spinning diversity of exercise machines, in which spandex-clad
pituitary cases shoutingly suggest that if you buy their $399 "Ultimo Gym, "your
business, love, and dream life will take on magnificent proportions.
We sat around thinking these thoughts at a meeting at which several of the best
woodshop projects of the past month were put through their paces. Graeme Knight's
simple and clever homemade rowing machine won, not least because it's getting cold
and chopping wood once a week just isn't going to keep those holiday drones from
taking permanent residence on our haunches. Rowing works virtually every muscle
group in the body, and it doesn't require an "Ultima Gym " to do properly. The rest of
these words are Graeme's, and begets a round of kudos from we tinkerers.Matt
Scanlon

With about $70, a single sculling seat, a pair of sculling grips, and a number of 10-pound
weights, it is possible to build a rugged and dependable rowing machine. Refer to
the 171-homemade-rowing-machine-diagram pdf as you follow the instructions below.

Rear Frame Construction

The seat is constrained within two parallel wood strips screwed on top of 2 x 4 lengths.
The space between the strips should allow 1/8" clearance outside the seat wheels.
Two 1 1/2" x 7/8" x 3/8"-thick pieces of wood are used to stop the sculling seat from
sliding off the back of the rower.
Drill four 3/8"-diameter holes at the front of the frame to enable the rear frame to be
bolted to the front, using 3 1/2"-long coach bolts, spring washers, and nuts.

Front Frame Construction

Cut all of the 2 x 4 and the 5/8" x 4 1/2" material to length.
Cut a 3/8"-diameter steel shaft to length (6", by these plans), so that it passes 1" into one
of the 24 1/2"-high pieces and protrudes 1/8" outside of the opposite 24 1/2"-high piece.
Assemble the two side frames using coach bolts, spring washers, and nuts. The two
frames should be carefully aligned before drilling the holes for the lower pulley shaft.
After drilling the holes, place the steel pulley shaft in position to keep the two side
frames aligned. Then position the two 20"-long top pieces and drill the 3/8"-diameter
holes for the top pulley shaft (use a 5"-long coach bolt for this upper shaft).
Bolt the two side frames on either side of the rear frame and install the pulleys with a
suitable number of 1"-outside-diameter x 3/8"-inside-diameter packing washers, as
shown on the plan view drawing. (I used six 3/64"-thick washers on each of the two
pulley shafts.)
Cut two 9 1/2"-long foot rests from 2 x 4 material and screw them to wedges mounted
on the 54"-long inclined pieces.

Assembling the Weight System

Cut a 9 1/2" length of 3/8"-diameter rope and tie it to a 1 1/2"-diameter dowel. Feed the
other end of the rope over the two pulleys and attach to the desired number of 5-pound
and/or 10-pound weights.

Workout Math
If four 10-pound weights are used and the distance through which they are raised is 41",
then the work per stroke is: 41"/12 x 40 Ibs = 137 ft-Ibs. If this work is done in 1.08
seconds (which corresponds to 120 strokes in 4 minutes, 15 seconds) the power is 137 ftlbs/1.08 secs x 1.356 = 171.6 watts (or 0.23 hp). To calculate other powers, use the
following equation: power (watts) = 0.113 x distance load is raised (inches) x total
weight (lbs)/time (secs).
We sat around thinking these thoughts at a meeting at which several of the best
woodshop projects of the past month were put through their paces. Graeme Knight's
simple and clever homemade rowing machine won, not least because it's getting cold
and chopping wood once a week just isn't going to keep those holiday drones from
taking permanent residence on our haunches. Rowing works virtually every muscle
group in the body, and it doesn't require an "Ultima Gym " to do properly. The rest of
these words are Graeme's, and begets a round of kudos from we tinkerers.Matt
Scanlon

With about $70, a single sculling seat, a pair of sculling grips, and a number of 10-pound
weights, it is possible to build a rugged and dependable rowing machine. Refer to
the 171-homemade-rowing-machine-diagram pdf as you follow the instructions below.

Rear Frame Construction

The seat is constrained within two parallel wood strips screwed on top of 2 x 4 lengths.
The space between the strips should allow 1/8" clearance outside the seat wheels.
Two 1 1/2" x 7/8" x 3/8"-thick pieces of wood are used to stop the sculling seat from
sliding off the back of the rower.
Drill four 3/8"-diameter holes at the front of the frame to enable the rear frame to be
bolted to the front, using 3 1/2"-long coach bolts, spring washers, and nuts.

Front Frame Construction

Cut all of the 2 x 4 and the 5/8" x 4 1/2" material to length.
Cut a 3/8"-diameter steel shaft to length (6", by these plans), so that it passes 1" into one
of the 24 1/2"-high pieces and protrudes 1/8" outside of the opposite 24 1/2"-high piece.
Assemble the two side frames using coach bolts, spring washers, and nuts. The two
frames should be carefully aligned before drilling the holes for the lower pulley shaft.
After drilling the holes, place the steel pulley shaft in position to keep the two side
frames aligned. Then position the two 20"-long top pieces and drill the 3/8"-diameter
holes for the top pulley shaft (use a 5"-long coach bolt for this upper shaft).
Bolt the two side frames on either side of the rear frame and install the pulleys with a
suitable number of 1"-outside-diameter x 3/8"-inside-diameter packing washers, as
shown on the plan view drawing. (I used six 3/64"-thick washers on each of the two
pulley shafts.)

Constructing Your Own T-Handle

Head to any hardware store or Home Depot and go to the plumbing aisle and find:

One 3/4" diameter X 12" long pipe nipple for the vertical shaft. A "pipe nipple" is a short pipe
threaded on both ends with male pipe thread

Tip: If you are shorter than 5'5" then use a 10" or even 8" pipe nipple to avoid dangerous
brushing of the ground.

Two 3/4" diameter X 4" long pipe nipples for handles

Tip: You can use electrical or duct tape to cover the outside threads - but always protect your
hands with high quality gloves when training with the T-handle.

One 3/4" diameter pipe "T" fitting

One 3/4" floor flange

Optional But Suggested: One spring clamp (suggestion - Irwin Quick-Grip 1") to keep plates
from drifting up at the top of the swing.

Assembly Instructions:

Connect the two 4" pipe nipples into the handles of the T pipe. You are basically extending
these handles so you can hold them.

Connect the 12" long pipe nipple into the single shaft of the T pipe. You are basically
extending the vertical shaft of the T pipe to make a holding pipe for the weights.

Slide weighted plates onto the body of the T handle.

Attach the floor flange to keep the plates from falling off as you swing.

Optional: attach the clamp to the pipe just above where the weight sits to keep the weights in
place.