Yarn Specs - USTER

USTER
LABORATORY SYSTEMS
APPLICATION REPORT
Description of all quality

parameters measured by
Uster Technologies fiber and
yarn testing equipment
THE STANDARD FROM FIBER TO FABRIC
Gabriela Peters, Sandra Meier

June 2002 / Edition 2: September 2007 / Edition 3: July 2010
SE 562
Copyright 2010 by Uster Technologies AG
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a re-
trieval system, translated or transmitted in any form or by any means, electroni-
cally, mechanically, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permis-
sion in writing of the copyright owner.
veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\Off-Line\Laborsysteme \SE-562_Description of all quality parameters .
2 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

Contents
1 Introduction ................................................................................ 4
2 USTER HVI ................................................................................ 4

2.1 Length & Strength ........................................................................ 5
2.2 Micronaire .................................................................................... 6
2.3 Color & Trash ............................................................................... 7
3 USTER AFIS .............................................................................. 7

3.1 Neps (USTER AFIS-N)............................................................... 7
3.2 Length & Maturity (USTER AFIS-L&M) ...................................... 8
3.3 Trash (USTER AFIS-T) ............................................................ 10
4 USTER TESTER ...................................................................... 10

4.1 Mass variations .......................................................................... 10
4.2 Hairiness .................................................................................... 12
4.3 Optical evaluation of yarns ......................................................... 13
4.4 Dust and trash............................................................................ 13
5 Strength and elongation of yarns ........................................... 14

5.1 Conventional strength and elongation
(USTER TENSORAPID)........................................................... 14
5.2 Ultra-high speed strength tests (USTER TENSOJET) ............. 16
6 Classification of yarn faults (USTER CLASSIMAT) ............ 16
7 Yarn twist (USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER) .................... 18

7.1 Absolute twist ............................................................................. 19
7.2 Twist multiplier ........................................................................... 19
8 Hairiness length classification

(USTER ZWEIGLE HL 400)..................................................... 20
9 Friction (USTER ZWEIGLE FRICTION TESTER) ................. 21
10 Yarn splices (USTER ZWEIGLE SPLICE TESTER) .............. 22
11 Applicable standards ............................................................... 22
USTER PRODUCTS 3 (24)

1 Introduction
It was 50 years ago that Uster Technologies put their first testing unit, the
evenness tester GGP, on to the market. Since that time, a vast number of
other testing instruments such as tensile testing installations and yarn
clearers, for example, have been developed by Uster Technologies. Today,
the USTER TESTER 4, which was introduced in 1997, already represents
the fifth generation of the "old" GGP. Aside from the measuring principle,
however, the USTER TESTER 4 has very little in common with the first
GGP tester. A good 10 years ago, Uster Technologies entered the last field
of textile testing in the spinning mill by extending their activities to fiber test-
ing.
Thanks to the wide range of testing instruments and computer-aided sys-

tems, todays quality assurance can count on a large number of quality pa-
rameters. It is hard to believe, but there are well over 150 characteristics to
describe the quality of a fiber or a yarn. In some cases, this great variety
has resulted in confusion and communication problems, because some
quality parameters are only distinguished by minor changes such as differ-
ent prefixes.
We hope that this paper, which describes and explains the test parameters
of all laboratory tests carried out with Uster Technologies instruments, will
provide the necessary information. It is intended as a reference that should
make your daily work with test parameters a little easier. The individual
chapters contain a brief description of the respective testing unit and its
quality parameters. On the left hand side you will find the abbreviations,
which you know from the test reports, and on the right the corresponding
explanations of these abbreviations.
2 USTER HVI
The USTER HVI testing system (High-Volume Instrument) uses the latest
measurement technology for the testing of large quantities of cotton sam-
ples within a minimum amount of time. It is a high-performance system that
permits the annual classification of entire cotton crops. Particularly worth
mentioning is the exclusive use of this system at the US Department of
Agriculture (USDA). HVI systems are also used for the classification of en-
tire inventories or complete lots at the cotton producer, at the merchant or
in the spinning mill.
The following information is, of course, also applicable if you use a product
from our LVI family instead of a HVI installation.

2.1 Length & Strength
Characteristics Unit Description

Len 1 [mm or in] Mean length (HVI mode) = mean fiber length
Len 2 [mm or in] Upper half mean length (HVI mode) = mean
length by weight of the longer 50% of fibers
Fig. 1)
Unf [%] Uniformity Index = length uniformity of the fi-
bers. The Uniformity Index is only valid for the
HVI mode.
Len 1 100
Uniformity Index
Len 2
Classification of the length uniformity:
Uniformity Index
very low below 76
low 77 79
average 80 82
high 83 85
very high above 86
Strength [g/tex] Breaking force of the fiber bundle divided by
fiber fineness
Assessment of the fiber strength (without long
staple):
HVI 1/8 (HVICC)
below 21 = very low
22 to 24 = low
25 to 27 = average
28 to 30 = high
over 30 = very high
Elg [%] Breaking elongation of the fiber bundle
Amt Amount, Parameter describing the optically
measured number of fibers in the bundle at the
time of break
SFI [%] Short fiber index = percentage of fibers shorter
than inch or 12.7 mm
SCI Spinning consistency index. A coefficient is
calculated by means of various quality charac-
teristics by a multiple regression analysis. The
main benefit of the SCI is a simplified selection
of bales for a predetermined blend of fibers as
well as the long-term check of the raw material
blend.

Length
Upper half
mean length
Mean length Fibrogram
0% 100% Fig. 1
50%
USDA-mode / Fibrogram
The fibrogram is a non-endaligned staple diagram and is calculated from a

randomly taken fiber bundle which is fixed in a measuring grip.
2.2 Micronaire

Mic Parameter describing cotton fiber fineness
Micronaire Ratings:
below 3.0 = very fine
3.1 - 3.9 = fine
4.0 - 4.9 = average
5.0 - 5.9 = coarse
over 6.0 = very coarse
Mat Parameter describing cotton maturity
Maturity Index Ratings:
below 0.70 = uncommon
0.71 0.85 = immature
0.86 1.00 = mature
above 1.01 = very mature

2.3 Color & Trash

Rd Reflectance of the fibers, higher Rd values
mean a higher color grade
+b Yellowness of the fibers (Nickerson/Hunter
scale)
C-Grade Color grade = Color classing parameter ac-
cording to the American Grade Standards
(USDA) for Upland and Pima cottons or ac-
cording to a user-specific classification
Tr Area Area of the sample covered with trash particles
Tr Cnt Number of trash particles
Tr Trash Trash code = trash classing according to
USDA
3 USTER AFIS
The USTER AFIS (Advanced Fiber Information System) is used for the
measurement of individual fibers. The fibers are opened and individualized
with a pair of spiked rollers surrounded by carding segments. The fiber
opening unit works by aero-mechanical separation to separate trash parti-
cles and large seed-coat fragments from the fibers. These trash particles
are extracted through the trash channel, while individual fibers and neps
pass through the fiber channel. Both channels are equipped with opto-
electrical sensors. The modular design of the USTER AFIS provides ex-
tensive information on important quality parameters and the respective fre-
quency distribution.
3.1 Neps (USTER AFIS-N)

Weight [g] Sample weight
Nep [m] Mean nep size
Nep [Cnt/g] Number of neps per gram
SCN [m] Mean seed-coat nep size
SCN [Cnt/g] Number of seed-coat neps per gram

3.2 Length & Maturity (USTER AFIS-L&M)

n by number of fibers
w by fiber weight
L (n,w) [mm or in] Mean fiber length
L (n,w) CV [%] Coefficient of variation of the fiber length
SFC (n,w) [%] Short fiber content, percentage of fibers
shorter than inch or 12.7 mm (Fig. 2)
UQL (w) [mm or in] Upper quartile length = length exceeded by
25% of the fibers (Fig. 2)
5% (n) [mm] Length exceeded by 5% of the fibers (Fig. 2)
2.5% (n) [mm] Length exceeded by 2.5% of the fibers (Fig. 2)
Fine [mtex] Fiber fineness (linear density)
IFC [%] Immature fiber content = percentage of imma-
ture fibers
Mat Ratio Maturity ratio
Fiber length
Short fiber content SFC (n, w)

L2,5%(n) L5%(n)
UQL(w) L (n,w)
L"
Fig. 2
0% 25% 50% 100%
Staple diagram

Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 show the definition of the measured values in relation to
the maturity characteristics. The respective parameters can be explained
using Fig. 3. Fig. 3 shows the cross-section of a cotton fiber.
Perimeter P Perimeter P
Lumen
Area A2
Area A1 Fig. 3
Degree of thickening
To compute the mean degree of thickening theta, a circular cross-section of

the measured fiber having a perimeter P is calculated, and subsequently
area A1 is divided by area A2.
Fig. 4 shows a maturity measurement using the USTER AFIS as well as

the values computed for theta.
Cumulative percent Theta Frequency
Mature
fibers (R)
Thinwalled
fibers
Immature
fiber
content (IFC) Fig. 4
Histogram of AFIS maturity
For this example, the following apply:
Mature fiber content R = 37.6%
Immature fiber content IFC = 10.3%
R - IFC 37.6 10.3

Maturity (according to Lord): M 0.7 0.7 0.83
200 200

3.3 Trash (USTER AFIS-T)

Total [Cnt/g] Total number of particles per gram
Mean size [m] Mean particle size
Dust [Cnt/g] Dust particles per gram (<500 m)
Trash [Cnt/g] Trash particles per gram (>500 m)
V.F.M. [%] Visible foreign matter
4 USTER TESTER
Mass variations, count variations and imperfections have a decisive influ-
ence on the utility and market value of a yarn. The USTER TESTER de-
termines these quality parameters on yarns, rovings and slivers very
quickly. The capacitive measuring system permits fast and reproducible
measurements. Based on spectrograms and diagrams, it is easy to elimi-
nate the sources of defects. In recent years, the hairiness measurement
has become more and more important, because hairiness can also affect
the quality a woven or knitted fabric. The modular design of the USTER
TESTER permits simultaneous testing of all parameters. With the USTER
TESTER 4 additional optical sensors have been introduced (sensors OM
and OI).
4.1 Mass variations
Fig. 5
Mass variations /
Irregularity U
a
Definition: U =
xL
a = shaded area
= mean value
xi = mass value at a given point in time
L = test length

Fig. 6
Mass variations /
Coefficient of variation CV
s
Definition: CV =
x
s = standard deviation
= mean value
L = test length

Um [%] Mean linear irregularity (now obsolete, CVm is
more common today, Fig. 5)
CVm [%] Coefficient of variation of the yarn mass (Fig.
6)
CVm (L) [%] Coefficient of variation of the yarn mass at cut
lengths of 1, 3, 10, 50, 100 m and in the Inert
and Half Inert modes
Mass deviation m(max)= maximum mass
m(min)= minimum mass
cut lengths for the calculation are 1, 3, 10 m or
Half Inert
Index Ratio between the ideal and actual evenness
of staple fiber strands
Imperfections Number of thin places, thick places and neps
at selected sensitivity settings (staple fiber
yarns only)
thin places: -30% , -40% , -50% , -60%
thick places: +35% , +50% , +70%, +100%
neps: +140% , +200% , +280%, +400%
Rel. count [%] Count deviation relating to the length of yarn
tested, the mean corresponds to 100%
Abs. count [e.g. tex, Linear density of the yarn unit length (yarn
Ne] count)

4.2 Hairiness
The receiver detects only the light transmitted by the protruding fibers
(Fig. 7). The yarn body remains black and does not transmit light. The light
intensity, at the receiver, therefore, measures the light intensity which is
proportional to the hairiness of the yarn.
Fig. 7

Hairiness The hairiness H corresponds to the total length
of protruding fibers divided by the length of the
sensor of 1 cm. The hairiness is, therefore, a
figure without a unit.
sh Standard deviation of hairiness
sh (L) Standard deviation of hairiness at cut lengths
of 1, 3, 10, 50, 100 m
Hairiness h(max)= maximum hairiness
deviation h(min)= minimum hairiness
cut lengths for the calculation are 1, 3, 10 m

4.3 Optical evaluation of yarns
The following characteristics are evaluated by an optical sensor which illu-

minates the yarn from 2 different directions and with an angle of 90' de-
grees.

2D [mm] Mean value of the two-dimensional diameter
over the measured yarn length
s2D8mm [mm] Standard deviation of the diameter over the
reference length of 8 mm
CV2D8mm [%] Coefficient of variation of the diameter over the
reference length of 8 mm
CV2D0.3mm [%] Coefficient of variation of the diameter over the
reference length of 0.3 mm
CV FS [%] Coefficient of variation of the fine structure,
assessment of short-wave variations
CV1D0.3mm [%] Coefficient of variation of the one-dimensional
yarn diameter, related to 0.3 mm
Shape Non-dimensional value between 0 and 1,
which describes the roundness of a yarn
(1 = circular, 0.5 = elliptical)
D [g/cm] Mean yarn density related to the nominal count
4.4 Dust and trash
The following characteristics are determined by a sensor which determines

dust and trash in yarns.

Trash count [Cnt/km or yd] Trash particles per km or yard
> 500 m
Trash count spec. [Cnt/g] Trash particles per gram > 500 m
Dust count [Cnt/km or yd] Dust particles per km or
yard > 100 - 500 m
Dust count spec. [Cnt/g] Dust particles per gram
> 100 - 500 m
Trash size [m] Mean trash particles size
Dust size [m] Mean dust particles size

5 Strength and elongation of yarns

5.1 Conventional strength and elongation
(USTER TENSORAPID)
In quality assurance, tensile testing of textile and technical yarns is one of

the most important tests. The USTER TENSORAPID operates in accor-
dance with the CRE measuring principle. The abbreviation CRE stands for
"Constant Rate of Extension". This means that the active clamp is moving
at constant speed. The measuring unit is suitable for the testing of textile
yarns (staple and filament yarns), technical yarns, woven fabrics and
skeins. With the USTER TENSORAPID, it is possible to process up to 40
samples automatically.

Pretension Force applied to the yarn at the beginning of the
strength test to guarantee reproducible initial
conditions. Standard pretension is 0.5 cN/tex.
Time to Br. [sec] Time elapsed between the start of the meas-
urement and the breakage of the specimen
(Fig. 8)
B-Force [cN] Breaking force = maximum tensile force meas-
ured (Fig. 8)
Elongation [%] Breaking elongation = elongation at maximum
force (Fig. 8)
Tenacity [cN/tex] Breaking force divided by the linear density of
the specimen
B-Work [cNcm] Work to break = work at maximum force (area
below the force/elongation curve drawn to the
point of maximum force, (Fig. 8)
Work [cNcm] Partial work (area below the force/elongation
curve drawn between two specified elongation
values)
Ref. val. Reference values (maximum of 8 values)
F ...% [cN] Force at a specified elongation
E ...N [%] Elongation at a specified force
E (F-) [%] Elongation at a specified force drop
F (1.br.) [cN] Breaking force of the first filament at a defined
force drop
M1 ...% [N/tex] Modulus (maximum of 8 values), either secant
M2 ...% [N/tex] Modulus or Young's modulus = slope of the
force/elongation curve measured at a specified
elongation

Tensional force F (N, cN)
FE-characteristic curve
Force at rupture
Breaking force
Pre-tensional force
Work done to break
Elongation E (%)
Breaking elongation
Elongation at rupture Fig. 8

Force-Elongation Curve
The software for filament testing provides the following additional parame-
ters:

Y-Point Point at the end of the elastic range of filament
yarn
Y-Point Load. [N] Force value at the end of the elastic range of
filament yarn
Y-Point Stress [cN/tex] Tenacity referred to the fineness or diameter at
the end of the elastic range of filament yarn
Y-Point Strain [%] Elongation at which the elastic range of a fila-
ment yarn ends
Natural Draw Point at the end of the flow range
Ratio (NDR)
NDR Load [N] Force at the end of the flow range
NDR Stress [cN/tex] Tenacity referred to the fineness or diameter at
the end of the flow range
NDR Extention [%] Elongation at the end of the flow range
NDR Ratio Ratio between NDR extension and Yield strain
Tensional force
Yield Point
A
Fig. 9
C D Elongation
Determination of the Yield
Point

5.2 Ultra-high speed strength tests (USTER TENSOJET)
The USTER TENSOJET is the first tensile testing installation which is ca-
pable of measuring at speeds of 400 m/min. In one hour, the testing unit
can carry out up to 30,000 tensile tests. The mechanism to load, elongate
and finally break the test sample consists of two pairs of counter-rotating
rollers, which are arranged at a distance of 500 mm. The measuring cycle
is divided into four phases: continuous drawing-off of the yarn and interme-
diate storage, insertion of the thread by an air jet, clamping and elongation
until it is broken by the rollers and, finally, removal of the remaining pieces
of thread into a waste container by compressed air. The USTER TENSO-
JET, like the USTER TENSORAPID, operates in accordance with the CRE
measuring principle.

B-Force [cN] Breaking force = maximum tensile force
measured (Fig. 8)
Elongation [%] Breaking elongation = elongation at maxi-
mum force (Fig. 8)
Tenacity [cN/tex] Breaking force divided by the linear density
of the (Fig. 8)
B-Work [cN*cm] Work done to break = work at breaking
force (area below the force/elongation
curve drawn to the point of maximum force,
Fig. 8)
Max values Maximum value of force, elongation, tenac-
ity or work within one test series
Min values Minimum value of force, elongation, tenac-
ity or work within one test series
Percentile values 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0% of all
e.g. P. 0.01 measurements are below the reported
value
6 Classification of yarn faults

(USTER CLASSIMAT)
There are basically two types of yarn faults. Firstly, there are the frequent
yarn faults, better known as imperfections which are detected with an
evenness tester. Secondly, there are rare yarn faults, which occur at such
irregular intervals that at least 100 km of yarn has to be tested to ensure
reliable detection. For open end yarns a test length of 1000 km is recom-
mended. As a yarn fault classifying installation, the USTER CLASSIMAT
detects all seldom-occurring yarn faults and classifies these into the re-
spective classes of the CLASSIMAT system.

Using the CLASSIMAT matrix, it is possible to define or control the most

suitable yarn clearer settings.
Characteristics Description
Mass
Fault classification [%]
600 A4 B4 C4 D4 E
400
A3 B3 C3 D3
250
A2 B2 C2 D2
150
A1 B1 C1 D1
100
A0 B0 C0 D0 F G
45
Mean 0
- 30
TB1 TC1 TD1 H1 I1
- 45
TB2 TC2 TD2 H2 I2
- 75 Fig. 10
Classing matrix of the
0.1 1 2 4 8 32 64 [cm]
Classimat
Fault lengths A: shorter than 1 cm
B+TB: 1 to 2 cm
C+TC: 2 to 4 cm
D+TD: 4 to 8 cm
E: longer than 8 cm
F+H: 8 to 32 cm
G+I: longer than 32 cm
Fault sizes 0: +45 to +100%
1: +100 to +150%
2: +150 to +250%
3: +250 to +400%
4: over +400%
E: over +100%
F+G: +45 to 100%
TB1/TC1/TD1/H1/I1: -30 to -45%
TB2/TC2/TD2/H2/I2: -45 to -75%
Fault channels of N channel for very short thick places
the clearers S channel for short thick places
L channel for long thick places
T channel for long thin places
C channel for count deviations
Sensitivity Reference length
N channel: +100% to +500%
S channel: +50% to +300% 1 to 10 cm
L channel: +10% to +200% 1 to 200 cm
T channel: -10% to -80% 10 to 200 cm
C channel: 5% to 80% 12.8 m

7 Yarn twist (USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER)

The amount of twist placed in a staple spun yarn is important from a techni-
cal viewpoint because of its effect on physical properties and performance,
and on finished product appearance. It has an effect on fabric luster, hand,
weight and strength. It is also important from a production standpoint be-
cause with every turn of twist there is an accompanying reduction in pro-
ductivity and an increase in cost.
There are two possible twist directions, Z and S. Yarns twisted clockwise
have S-twist, yarns twisted counter-clockwise have Z-twist. Most yarns
worldwide have Z-twist (Fig. 11).
Usually, the twist of a yarn is given in turns per meter or turns per inch, re-
spectively. The amount of twist is determined mostly by the end use, and
by the type and length of the fibers used.
Fig. 11
Illustration of a yarn with
Z-twist and S-twist
The twist of a yarn can be described by the twist per unit length (per meter
or per inch), and by the twist multiplier. Another decisive parameter for the
twist characteristic of a yarn is the variation of the twist, which should be
kept within small limits.
For the twist character of a yarn only the twist multiplier is decisive, as it
describes the angle of the twist in the yarn. A fine yarn needs more twist
than a coarse yarn in order to have the same twist character. Therefore, the
twist of a yarn is usually given as the coefficient of twist, also called twist
multiplier in order to be able to compare different yarn counts.
Fig. 12 shows the illustration of a yarn. It can be seen that although the
twist per unit length is the same, the twist multiplier (the angle of the twist)
varies, depending on the yarn count.
Fig. 12
Illustration of the yarn twist
1 = high twist
2 = low twist

7.1 Absolute twist
The absolute twist is the amount of twist per meter or twist per inch, respec-
tively. In general, one can say that within certain limits a yarn with a higher
twist is stronger than the same yarn with a lower twist. Also, the yarn with
the lower twist has a larger diameter.
The conversion of turns per meter into turns per inch can be done accord-
ing to the following formula:
Turns per inch = Turns per meter / 39.37 = Turns per meter x 0.0254
Turns per meter = Turns per inch x 39.37
The number of turns in the yarn highly affects the production level of the
spinning machine. As the spindle speed is usually already set to the maxi-
mum, the amount of twist can only be influenced by the reduction of the
delivery, which consequently also results in a reduction of productivity.
Twist per meter = revolution of the spindle per minute / delivery in m per min
7.2 Twist multiplier
The most common term used to express a twist level is the twist multiplier
as it is independent of the yarn count. It is used for the comparison of cer-
tain yarn characteristics of yarns with different counts. A finer yarn, e.g.
needs more twist in order to reach the same character as a coarse one.
The larger the twist multiplier, the higher the number of turns per meter (or
per inch) in the yarn for a given count. For a given twist multiplier, the yarn
count gets finer and the turns per meter (per inch) increase.
The following formula shows the calculation for the twist multiplier:
N
e
c N
English twist multiplier: e = turns per inch /

m
Metric twist multiplier: m = turns per meter /
Conversion of e and m:
e = m : 30.3
m = e x 30.3

The twist per meter of a yarn is dependent on the yarn count. A fine yarn
requires more twist than a coarse yarn for the same application. Therefore,
the English twist multiplier takes this into account, e.g. a statement such as:
The twist multiplier of 3.7 for a combed yarn is valid for the entire count
range.
There are certain relationships in regard of the twist multiplier:

The twist multiplier should be as low as possible, but as high as neces-
sary.
The higher the twist multiplier, the lower the production level. Due to the
high twist, the production rate of the spinning machine will decrease.
A low twist multiplier will lead to a lower strength level in the yarn with a
softer handle.
Twist [1/m] Twist of the yarn per meter
Twist [1/inch] Twist of the yarn per inch
English twist [-] Twist per inch/Nec. Twist value inde-

multiplier pendent of count.
Metric twist [-] Twist per meter/Nm. Twist value inde-

multiplier pendent of count.
Metric twist [-] Twist per meter tex. Twist value in-
multiplier dependent of count.
Coefficient of varia- [%] Coefficient of variation of the twist value

tion
8 Hairiness length classification

(USTER ZWEIGLE HL 400)
Besides the traditional yarn parameters like evenness, imperfections,
strength and elongation, the hairiness plays also an important role in the
evaluation of a yarn. The hairiness influences the performance of subse-
quent processes like weaving, knitting or dyeing as well as the appearance
and end use of the final fabric or garment. The factors influencing hairiness
can be sub-divided into 3 major groups:
Fiber properties
Yarn parameters
Process parameters

The hairiness length classification gives detailed hairiness information for

various applications in the spinning process and also its subsequent proc-
esses. This information is especially interesting for:
Compact spinning
Machine maintenance
Knitting
Weaving
Hairiness Hairiness Number of protruding fibers at a defined

length from the yarn body. Individual
count of fibers in 9 length zones: the
numbers of protruding fibers are meas-
ured in intervals of: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10,
12, and 15 mm. This means that the
measuring range is from 1 15 mm.
S3 value S3 The S3 value is the sum of all fiber

classes 3 mm and longer (cumulative).
This value describes the long protruding
fibers of a yarn.
S1+2 value S1+2 The S1+2 value is the sum of all fibers
with the length of 1 and 2 mm This value
describes the amount of short protruding
fibers of a yarn.
9 Friction (USTER ZWEIGLE FRICTION TESTER)

Yarns experience friction either between themselves or against metallic
surfaces before being processed into a fabric in weaving and knitting ma-
chinery. Yarn friction is important with respect to the running behavior of a
yarn in post spinning processes. Yarn friction is a quality parameter which
can affect the yarn performance and especially the knittability and weave-
ability of a yarn.
The monitoring and measurement of yarn friction allows the optimum wax-
ing of yarns on winding machines. It also allows the measurement of influ-
ences of chemical additives on running properties of single and plied grey
and dyed yarns.

Friction Yarn friction between the yarn and a

metal surface of a yarn tensioner.
Range between 0 and 1.
Coefficient of variation CV Variation of the friction.
10 Yarn splices (USTER ZWEIGLE SPLICE TESTER)

A yarn must have a certain minimum tensile strength and a minimum elon-
gation in order to stand up to the processes subsequent to spinning. This is
also and especially valid for splices that join together two ends of a yarn.
Besides the quality aspect that needs to be fulfilled by the yarn, its process-
ing quality depends to a certain extent also on the quality of the splices.
Today, approximately one splice per kilometer has to be expected in a
cone. Considering the costs for a yarn break in knitting, warping, sizing or
weaving, the splices play an important role in this respect as well. The
number of splices must be kept at a low level, but the potential weak places
(splice) must have the highest strength possible. This is only possible by
checking the strength of the splices regularly by means of an instrument.
Strength [cN] Breaking strength of a splice
Elongation [%] Breaking elongation of a splice
11 Applicable standards
Most fiber and yarn testing methods are covered by national or international
standards. Since fiber testing instruments are mainly developed in the
United States, ASTM standards apply in most cases. Yarn testing is cov-
ered by DIN, EN or ISO standards and Japan Industrial Standards.

The following standards apply to USTER PRODUCTS:
1. USTER HVI
ASTM D-1448, ISO 2403 Micronaire reading of cotton fibers
ASTM D-1447 Fibrograph measurement of length and length
uniformity
ASTM D-1445 Breaking strength and elongation (flat bundle
method)
ASTM D-2253 Nickerson/Hunter colorimeter
ASTM D-2812 Non-lint content of cotton
ASTM D-5867 High-volume instrument testing
2. USTER AFIS
ASTM D-5866 AFIS nep testing
3. USTER TESTER
ISO 2060, DIN 53 830 Determination of yarn count
ISO 2649, DIN 53 817, Determination of yarn evenness
ASTM 1423
4. USTER TENSORAPID
ISO 2062, DIN 53 834, Single-end tensile testing
ASTM D-1578, JIS
5. USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER

ISO 2061 Determination of twist in yarn direct count-
ing method
ASTM 1423 Twist in yarns by direct counting
6. Environmental conditions
Since most measurements on textile products are affected by both the
temperature and the relative humidity, textile testing should be performed
under constant standard atmospheric conditions.
ISO 139, EN 20 139, Standard atmosphere for conditioning and

testing
DIN 53 802

Uster Technologies AG
Sonnenbergstrasse 10
CH-8610 Uster / Switzerland
Phone +41 43 366 36 36
Fax +41 43 366 36 37
www.uster.com
sales@uster.com

Yarn Specs - USTER

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USTER

Description of all quality

THE STANDARD FROM FIBER TO FABRIC

Gabriela Peters, Sandra Meier

Copyright 2010 by Uster Technologies AG

veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\Off-Line\Laborsysteme \SE-562_Description of all quality parameters .

2 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

2 USTER HVI ................................................................................ 4

3 USTER AFIS .............................................................................. 7

4 USTER TESTER ...................................................................... 10

5 Strength and elongation of yarns ........................................... 14

6 Classification of yarn faults (USTER CLASSIMAT) ............ 16

7 Yarn twist (USTER ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER) .................... 18

8 Hairiness length classification

9 Friction (USTER ZWEIGLE FRICTION TESTER) ................. 21

10 Yarn splices (USTER ZWEIGLE SPLICE TESTER) .............. 22

11 Applicable standards ............................................................... 22

USTER PRODUCTS 3 (24)

Thanks to the wide range of testing instruments and computer-aided sys-

4 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

2.1 Length & Strength

Characteristics Unit Description

USTER PRODUCTS 5 (24)

The fibrogram is a non-endaligned staple diagram and is calculated from a

Characteristics Unit Description

6 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

2.3 Color & Trash

Characteristics Unit Description

3.1 Neps (USTER AFIS-N)

Characteristics Unit Description

USTER PRODUCTS 7 (24)

3.2 Length & Maturity (USTER AFIS-L&M)

Characteristics Unit Description

Short fiber content SFC (n, w)

8 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

To compute the mean degree of thickening theta, a circular cross-section of

Fig. 4 shows a maturity measurement using the USTER AFIS as well as

Cumulative percent Theta Frequency

For this example, the following apply:

Mature fiber content R = 37.6%

Immature fiber content IFC = 10.3%

R - IFC 37.6 10.3

USTER PRODUCTS 9 (24)

3.3 Trash (USTER AFIS-T)

Characteristics Unit Description

4.1 Mass variations

10 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

Characteristics Unit Description

USTER PRODUCTS 11 (24)

Characteristics Unit Description

12 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

4.3 Optical evaluation of yarns

The following characteristics are evaluated by an optical sensor which illu-

Characteristics Unit Description

4.4 Dust and trash

The following characteristics are determined by a sensor which determines

Characteristics Unit Description

USTER PRODUCTS 13 (24)

5 Strength and elongation of yarns

In quality assurance, tensile testing of textile and technical yarns is one of

Characteristics Unit Description

14 (24) USTER PRODUCTS

Tensional force F (N, cN)

Work done to break