RepRapGuru Prusa I3 Build Manual V1.4

Prusa i3 Build Manual

Updated: 08/21/2016
2015-2016 Reprap Guru, LLC | All Rights Reserved WWW.REPRAPGURU.COM

REPRAPGURU: Pursa i3 Build Tip Sheet **READ FIRST**

Do not overtighten the acrylic frame and parts, they can crack or be damaged.
Build the base completely (Y assembly pages 29-31) before attaching it to the printer later. (Hardware Label #11)
If you're not using REPRAPGURU filament, make sure you pick a good quality 1.75mm filament for good prints.
The endstop switches use a 3 wire connector, if you put one on backwards you will short out your controller!
(The green wire should face the nearest edge of the board; Page 62)
If you study each picture closely, they will have the orientation of all the parts and your build will be perfect.
You should have 2 large bearings and a bag of spare nuts and bolts when finished. (Hardware bag #10)
If you're using a LCD controller to control your 3d printer, please keep in mind there is a programming flaw in
the Marlin software when using the preheat function, both heaters start at the same time causing the ramps
board connections (green connector) to overheat and melt. It's best to use the SD card function, load your
file and the heatup will start like it should.
The 2 Z-axis acrylic frame assemblies are not interchangeable (page 16). The power supply side does not have
the "wire feeding slot" at the top and goes on the left side (looking from the front; page 17)
Make sure you change the power supply to the proper voltage (115 volts for USA)
Remove all protective paper from the acrylic pieces before building.

PGURU: Quick Page Reference (For after your build)
Check the X end stop distance ...................................................... 67
Check the distance for Y end stop ................................................ 68
Check the distance for Z end stop ................................................. 66
Hooking up "optional" LCD display ................................................ 74
Checking/resetting the Vref on the drivers boards ....................... 72
Print bed calibaration ............................... See configuration manual
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PARTS LIST
1. What is in the shipping box.
Hardware Box 1
Hardware Box 2
PRUSA i3 Frame Kit (Acrylic Hardware)
Metal rods
2. Box 1
PCB
PCB and USB cable
3 cable sets
5 PCB and 5 heat sinks
4 clips - 15 cable ties - 4 belts
7 cables, bearings and pulleys
10 bags of hardware
3. Bags of hardware (All washers are flat) (nuts are 5.5mm)
#1 Metal Frame = 38)M3 bolts - 38)M3 nuts - 40)washers
#2 Acrylic Frames = 24)M3x16mm bolts - 24)flat nuts - 24)washers
#3 Z motor and Y motor = 10)M3x10mm bolts - 8)washers
#4 X Plastic End (motor and end stop bolts) = 4)m3x20mm bolts - 4)washers - 1)m5 bolt - 5)M5 nuts
#5 Ramps and Power supply = 3)m3x30mm bolts - 3)washers - 3)spacers - 3)M4x8mm bolts
#6 Belts and Pulleys = 2)m3x26m bolts - 2)lock nuts - 4)washers
#7 End Stops = 3)M3x20mm bolts - 6)M3x10mm bolts - 9)M3 nuts - 9)washers
#8 Heat Bed Plastics (Y Plastics) = 12)m3x5mm bolts - 4)3M nuts - 9)3M lock nuts - 23)washers
#9 Hot Bed = 4)M3x20mm bolts - 4)thumb nuts - 4)12mm springs
#10 Extra
4. Hardware
#11 Y Axis Rods = 3)210mm threaded rods - 1)27mm threaded rod - 2)455 threaded rods - 1)395mm smooth rod
#12 Z Axis Rods = 2)5mmx310mm threaded rods - 2)320mm smooth rods
#13 X Axis Rods =2)365mm smooth rods
Basic Skills Required:
. A little better than basic understanding of electronics

. A little better than basic understanding of mechanical components
. A little better than basic computer skills
Tools/Supplies Required:
. 13mm open end wrench (2 if possible, if not, a small adjustable crescent wrench will do)
. Cutting pliers (if you want to trim wires, zip ties and power supply wire)
. Phillips screwdriver #1 (mount motors and acrylics)
. A small jewelers screwdriver (Set drivers boards)
. Volt meter (to calibrate the 5 driver boards)
. Metric calipers or measuring device
. Not required, an Infrared thermometer (comes in handy to check your hot end and heated bed)
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Step 1: Part Prep

Un-box everything and separate similar parts into areas you can grab from. (Acrylic parts, printed
black parts, hardware bags, rods, bearings, electronics, wires, etc.)
Step 2: Identifying Hardware Bags

Tip: Only take needed hardware out of the bags during steps, as some steps use the same hardware bag.
Hardware Bags Number Break Down
1. Metal Y Axis Base Frame

2. Acrylic Frame
3. Z + Y Motor Mounting
4. Z Plastic Motor Mounting
5. Ramps + Power Supply
6. Belt Pulleys
7. End Stops
8. Heat Bed Plastics
9. Heat Bed Leveling
10. Extra Parts
11. Y Axis Rods
12. Z Axis Rods
13. X Axis Rods
Lets start building assemblies!

Step 4: Assemble Y Axis Idler Bearing
Using one of the pulleys in your plastic parts bag and the part shown below, insert the pulley as
shown. Use a M3 26mm bolt, 2x M3 Washers and M3 nylon locking nut to secure. Dont overtighten as
the pulley must move freely. (Hardware Bag #6). The M3 nuts are 5.5mm.
(NOTE: All washers go under the bolt heads and nuts)
Set aside for later.

Step 5: Assemble Y Bearing Holders
Using 3 of the linear bearings (small steel cylindrical pieces); slide them into the 3 plastic bearing holders as
shown below.

Step 6: Assemble Y Carriage
Using the three Y bearing holders in step 5 and the acrylic bed frame (which will hold the heater and glass
printing plate later), attach the bearing holders to the frame as shown and set aside for later. (Hardware Bag #8)
Bolt heads are on the top of the Y carriage.
(Acrylic has paper on for better pictures, you will remove all paper before starting these steps)
Tip: Use one of the smooth steel rods to align the bearings.
(X Bed Frame design may change from pictured below, But steps are the same)

Step 7: Assemble X Carriage Bearings Into Carriage
Using 3 linear bearings, 6 zip ties and the X carriage, place the zip-ties through the
carriage as shown. Note the direction of the zip ties closely.

Step 8: Assemble Z Axis Bearings Into Z Carriage
Using 4 linear bearings, insert the bearings in each end of the two Z carriages.

Step 9: Assemble Left Side Z Axis Carriage Idler Bearing
Using the other pulley and one of the Z carriages from step 8, insert the pulley as shown below. Use a M3
26mm bolt, M3 Washers and M3 nylon locking nut to secure. Dont over tighten as the pulley
must move freely. If it is binding, loosen bolt. (Hardware Bag #6)
Set this aside for later.

Step 10: Assemble Acrylic Motor Mounts

Assemble the motor mounts with the following parts using M3 16mm bolts. Place the nuts in the cutouts
as shown. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the acrylic frame will crack. Snug is just fine. (Hardware Bag #2)
*** New Design has rod holes on both sides so there is no confusion on what side it needs to be on**
Repeat the process for the left side mount making sure the hole noted above is on the left side.

Step 11: Attach Acrylic Motor Mounts To Acrylic Frame

Attach the motor mounts to the large acrylic frame with the following parts using 3 M3 16mm bolts
and nuts. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the acrylic frame will crack. Snug is just fine. (Hardware Bag #2)

Step 12: Attach Couplers To Motors

Attach the flexible metal couplers to two motors using the following parts. You can use the small wedge
shaped acrylic piece as a spacer. Tighten the coupler set screws with a 2mm or 1/16th hex key.

Step 13: Attach Motors To Mounts On Acrylic Frame

Attach the motors to the motor mounts on the acrylic frame with the following parts using 4x M3
12mm bolts and 4x M3 washers. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the acrylic frame will crack. Snug is just fine.
Make sure the motors wiring connections are pointing inward; this will be the front side of the frame
(Hardware Bag #3) (Acrylic has paper on for better pictures, you will remove all paper before starting these steps)

Step 14: Attach Vertical Mounts To Acrylic Frame

Attach the two rear vertical supports to the acrylic frame with the following parts using 3x M3 16mm bolts,
3x M3 washers, and 3x M3 nuts for each side. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the acrylic frame will crack.
(Hardware Bag #2). NOTE: the top picture below with the top slot is on the right side (looking from the front).

Step 15: Build X Assembly

Using the parts below, you will put the X assembly together. (Hardware Bag #4)
Rods are hardware #13

Mount the motor to the right side of the X motor mount as shown. (Hardware bag #4)
No washer are to be used here and do not over tighten.
(You will have to set the pulley upside down so the teeth are inline with the belt opening)

Insert the long smooth rods as shown, dont put them all the way in yet, just enough to hold together is fine.
(Hardware #13)
Grab the X carriage we built earlier, slide it gently on to the 2 rails in the orientation shown.

You should have an assembly that looks like this.
Note: The distance between the two end pieces (inside to inside) is 305mm or less(very close to 12 inches).
The holes are .323 inches, or 5/16th of an inch, in diameter if you need to drill out any obstruction.
Once this piece is installed later, there should be no lateral play in the rods.

Step 16: Build The X End stop
Using the parts below, mount the end stop circuit board to the end stop holder. (Hardware Bag #7)
Do not install the long bolt until the next step.

Step 17: Mount The X End stop
Mount the X end stop to the smooth rod as shown:
Note: The end stop will not contact the carriage; it will contact the extruder motor.

Step 18: Insert Smooth Rods Into The Z Bearings On The X Assembly
Using the shortest smooth rods, insert them into the Z bearings on the X assembly. Do this slowly to
make sure the bearings align themselves properly. (Hardware #12)

Step 19: Insert Threaded Z Rods Into The X Assembly

Using the 5mm threaded rods, insert them into the X assembly. Make sure the nut is pressed into the hex-
shaped hole on the underside of the mount (You can use HOT GLUE to hold the nut in place; but do not get it on
the threaded rod). Do the same on the other side of the mount. (Hardware Bag #4 / Hardware # 12)

Step 20: Mount X Assembly With Z Rods To Motors And Frame

Slide the smooth rods into the holes on the motor mount and the threaded rods into the motor couplers on
both sides; tighten the coupler set screws with a 2mm (or 1/16 inch) hex key (alan wrench). You may need to
adjust the width by compressing the X assembly further on to the smooth rods. If its too close together, pull
them apart a little.
Loosen the set screws so the threaded rods go about 10mm into the motor couplers.

Step 20a: Mount Z Axis End Stop
To assemble the Z axis end stop you can follow the same steps in step 16, however, attach the end stop
circuit board to the opposite side (hump side) of the end stop holder. Mount it on the right side Z axis
smooth rod shown below where the spring lines up with the end stop bolt. (Hardware bag #7)

Step 21: Mount Top Acrylic Rod Keeper

Mount the two rod keepers on the top of the acrylic frame as shown; you may need to further
adjust the width to ensure they fit. Repeat for both sides, flipping the acrylic piece to match.
(Hardware Bag #2)
Set the acrylic frame aside for now.

Step 22: Assembling Y Threaded Rods

Dont tighten any of the nuts yet, well do that later.
Take the 2 long threaded rods and 4 nuts and 4 washers and thread as shown.
(Hardware Bag #1) / (Hardware #11)
Add 4 more nuts and 4 washers to the rods:
Add the 4 black end pieces to the rods and 4 more nuts and 4 washers:

Step 23: Assembling Y Threaded Rods (Front End Cross Rods

Using 2 of the 3 shortest threaded rods, 10 nuts and 10 washers; assemble as shown below.
Mount the Y idler on the top rod. (Hardware Bag #1) / (Hardware #11)

Step 24: Assembling Y Threaded Rods (Back End Cross Rods

Using the 2 remaining threaded rods (one longer than the other, 14 nuts and 12 washers; assemble
as shown below. The longer rod goes on top. Mount the Y motor mount as shown.
(Hardware Bag #1) / (Hardware #11)
Dont tighten anything, well have to adjust all of this soon.

Step 25: Assembling Y Smooth Rods

Using the 2 remaining smooth rods (should be the longest ones; assemble as
shown below)
Slide each rod into the Y carriage bearings we made in step 5.

Insert the ends of the rods into the Y frame corners; repeat this for all 4 corners.
Carefully adjust Y frame corners so rods drop straight down into frame.

Shorten the distance between the front and the back from the back side of the frame, this will look
much cleaner when its done.

Use the Y carriage to adjust the width between the 2 rods at the end. It is important to do this on a flat
surface as we want the frame to be level and square. Tighten the nuts on the corners as you make your
adjustments. We want the Y carriage to slide smoothly back and forth without binding. When everything is
tight, insert zip ties as shown and tighten.

Step 26: Assemble & Mount The Y Axis Belt Block To The Carriage
Mount the Y belt block to the underside of the Y carriage with 2 or 3x M3 16mm bolts
and Nyloc nuts. (Hardware Bag #8)
Note: You will not be able to fit a washer on the single side underneath hole of the older design
*** NEW design will use the same hardware bag and steps but you will have extra washers, bolt and nut
Older Kit Design

New Kit Design

Step 27: Assemble Y Axis Motor
Place the pulley on the motor. Orient the pulley as shown and align the end of the pulley flat with the end of
the motors shaft. Tighten with a 2mm or 1/16 hex key.

Step 28: Mount Y Axis Motor To Mount On Y Axis Frame
Mount the motor to the frame as shown below, use 2 M3 10mm bolts. Make sure the
motors connection is pointing towards the front of the machine. (Hardware bag #4)

Step 29: Install Y Axis GT2 Belt (From Bottom Of Y Assembly)

Using one of the GT2 belts supplied, install one end of it into the Y belt block as shown. Leave some of the belt
sticking out of the bottom of the belt block. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to press the belt all the way
into the groove in the block then tighten bolts to hold in place.
New Design Older Design
OR
Run the belt through the idler pulley at the front of the assembly.

Run the belt around the Y axis motor pulley.
Now back into the block. The belt should be taught, but not super tight.
Note: Cut extra belt length off (leave 1 inch).
Older Design
New Design
OR

Align the motor and front idler pulley so that the belt is straight by adjusting the nuts on the threaded rods, then
tighten nuts.

Step 30: Build Y End Stop

Using the parts below, mount the Y end stop to the Y end stop holder with only one screw. See picture below.
(Hardware Bag #7)

Step 31: Mount Y Axis End Stop

Mount the end stop to the Y frame on the right front as shown. The switch should contact the bearing holder.
Tip: You can flip the end stop over and and attach it on the other side of the end stop holder and put it under the hot plate to avoid potential
clashing of the leveling knob.

Step 32: Mount Y Assembly To Acrylic Frame

Insert the Y assembly into the acrylic frame from the back. Put 2 washers on to the longer threaded rods. The
longer rear rod will slide into the slots on the acrylic vertical supports. NOTE: This view is from back, the Power
supply will be on the right side, outside, in this picture (but goes on the left side when looking from the front).

Set the assembly down ensuring the 1 washer and 1 nut on the longer rods of the Y assembly are on both
sides of the acrylic frame.

Measure and tighten the nuts that are on both sides of the acrylic frame. The corners of the Y assembly should
be 70mm from the acrylic frame. Gently tighten the nuts on the acrylic frame, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, the
frame will crack, snug is just fine. Do not tighten the left and right(Z), until squared up in the next step.

Install a washer and nut on each side of the threaded rod that slides into the vertical acrylic support. Make
sure the vertical supports are at a 90 degree angle to the acrylic frame. Now you can tighten the left and right
Y and Z nuts. Also the ends on the smooth Y-rod holders. Lift up on the rear Y frame while tightening to vertical Z .
NOTE: If you prefer, you can square up the 90 degree angles on the outside rather the inside of the frame.

Step 33: Install Belt On X Axis
This is similar to the belt installation on the Y axis except the X carriage is the belt block. From the back, install
the belt into the right side of the X carriage. Time to cut the tie-wrap ends if you have not already.

Thread the belt through the idler on the right side (from the back of the printer then around the motor pulley
on the left side.

Insert the belt (pulling it taught, but not super tight into the X carriage belt block. Join the ends with a zip tie
and trim the excess belt. Note: Cut extra belt length off (leave 1 inch).

Step 36: Mount Heated Bed To Y Carriage
Mount the heated bed to the acrylic Y carriage. Mount the bed with the wires towards the back and
the solder connections down. The thumb screws will allow for bed leveling later. (Hardware Bag #9)
Repeat this for all 4 corners.

Step 37: Build Arduino Electronics With RAMPS Board And Stepper Drivers
This is the brain of the printer, it's composed of an Arduino Mega 2560 board (programmable controller)
and a RAMPS shield board. This provides all the necessary connections for the motors, sensors, hot
end, heated bed and the stepper drivers that control the power and signals to the stepper motors.

Install ALL the jumpers on to the RAMPS board as shown:
This enables 16X micro-stepping for the stepper drivers, which is where the precision is derived from.

Your 5 stepper drivers need heat sinks. Peel off the tape from the back of each heat sink and apply the
heat sink to the each chip on each driver board.
Align the small stepper drivers boards (could green or red) as shown with the small potentiometer
(looks like a philips screw) towards the top of the board and press them down on to the board ensuring
that the pins are in the connectors.

Press the RAMPS shield with stepper drivers installed on to the Arduino board.
Make sure it's pressed together as best you can:

Step 38: Mount Electronics To Acrylic Frame

Mount the electronics to the right side (looking from the front) acrylic vertical support using 2x M3 30mm
bolts, 2x nylon spacers, 2x M3 washers and 2x M3 nuts. (Hardware Bag #5)

Step 39: Mount Power Supply To Acrylic Frame

Mount the power supply to the left side (looking from the front) acrylic vertical support using 3x M4
12mm screws. (Hardware Bag #5)
Make sure the power supply is set correctly for your Country. 115 for USA

Step 40: Wire 110V Power Cord To Power Supply
Lets start by attaching the Green ground wire to the G/ground screw down terminal. Depending on the
country code, the Neutral (N terminal) will be either white/blue and the Load (L terminal) will be
brown/red/black.
(If using Green/White/Black cord, Green is Ground, White is Neutral and Black is Hot).
The 1 inch wire will be removed later. We will use it for a gound to calibrate the VREF on the 5 driver boards later

Step 41: Wire 12V Power Cords To RAMPS

Use the included wires to connect the 2 12V power plugs on the RAMPS board to the power
supply. NOTE: Be careful not to have any loose or fraid wires than can short
The arrows note the 3+ and 3- (ground) DC terminals.

Step 42: Connect Fan, Hot End And Heated Bed Wires To RAMPS Board
Connect the Fan wires to the blue screw terminals marked D9 on the RAMPS board. Make sure the red
wire from the fan goes to the positive terminal on the D9 terminal. NOTE: Again be careful not to have any
loose or fraid wires that can short.

Now, connect the hot end wires (woven red fabric wires) to the screw terminals marked D10. Polarity is not
important.

Finally, connect the heated bed wires to the RAMPS board. If trimming the wires, make sure you have
enough slack for the bed to move to the front of the machine (D8).

Step 43: Connect Hot End And Heated Bed Thermistors To RAMPS Board
Connect the hot end thermistor (thin 2 pin connector from the extruder) to T0 and the heat bed
thermistor (thin 2 pin connector from the heat bed) to T1 on the RAMPS board. No polarity on
either.

Step 44: Connect End Stop Wires To RAMPS Board
The end stop wires are 3 conductor wires with a white

connector on one end and a black connector on the other.
Plug each white connector into each end stop and label
the black connector with its corresponding axis.
The Y end stop is located on the front bottom of the Y assembly.

The X end stop is located on the right side of the X assembly.
The Z end stop is located on the right side vertical rod right above
the stepper motor.
The orientation of the wires is critical; the red wires must

be on the right side. If you wire these backwards, you will
break the voltage regulator on the Arduino MEGA
The connections start from the bottom for X Y Z and skip

one in between.

Step 45: Connect Stepper Motor Wires To RAMPS Board
The stepper motor wires are 4 conductor wires with a white

connector on one end and a black connector on the other. Plug each
white connector into each stepper motor and label the black
connector with its corresponding axis. You will notice there is a
longer wire. This is for the extruder motor. The connections on the
RAMPS board are located next to each stepper driver.
The Y motor is located at the rear of the Y assembly.
The X motor is located on the right side of the X assembly.
The 2 Z motors are located on the right and left side attached to the large acrylic
frame. E is from the extruder to E0.
Please follow the pictures for the proper wire orientation. If a motor
moves the in the opposite direction, simply rotate the connector 180
degrees and plug back in to the board.
Note: The E1 port is not used. This is usually for a second extruder,
in this case, it is a spare stepper driver in case you have a failure.

Step 46: Adjust X Carriage Sides To The Same Height
Using a ruler, measure the distance between the top of the acrylic motor mounts to the bottom of each side
of the X carriage. There is no set distance, but they should be the same distance from the mounts. To adjust
the height, turn the threaded rods on either side. NOTE: Make sure the Z axis nuts are seated inside the X carriage.

Step 47: Set Z Axis End Stop To Starting Height

Using a ruler, measure the distance between the top of the acrylic motor mounts to the top of the Z
end stop. Set the starting distance at 50mm. This is higher than it needs to be but we will adjust this
later with the end stop bolt. Its better to be safe than cracking your glass bed.

Step 48: Set X Axis End Stop To Starting Point

Using a ruler, measure the distance between the right side X carriage and the end stop. Set it at 20mm to
start.

Step 49: Set Y Axis End Stop To Starting Point
Using a ruler, measure the distance between the right side Y front frame and the end stop. Set it at 60mm to
start.

Step 50: Mount Glass To The Heated Bed

Mount your 1/8 thick 8x 8 square glass print surface to the heated bed with the 4 black binder
clips included in the kit.

Step 51: Install Acrylic Rod Keepers To Top Of Acrylic Frame

Secure the 2 acrylic pieces (one for each side) to the top of the acrylic frame to keep the Z axis smooth
rods from moving up. (Hardware Bag #2)
Note: We have supplied 2 flanged bearings to hold the M5 threaded rod in place. Just insert in the hole openings on top of these rod
keepers.

Before proceeding:
DOUBLE CHECK ALL OF YOUR WIRING

Step 52: Set stepper drivers to correct Vref
The stepper motor drivers must be set to the correct current

settings. In order to do this, the machine must be powered
on. You will need a volt meter and a steady hand to measure
and adjust the potentiometers. The Vref is measured in mV
(millivolts). Measure the Vref with the positive probe on the
potentiometer itself and the negative probe on the top left
pin (GND) or any ground on the board. You can even use the
GND on your power supply (If you are up on your electronics,
you can use the 1 inch wire for the ground probe, otherwise
adjust as pictured.
Adjust the potentiometers so the voltage reads the following values:
X 0.550V
Y 0.550V
Z 0.550V
E 0.550V
Picture shown is for reference; yours should already be installed on your printer and wired. If you're up on your electronics,
connect your meter ground probe to the 1 inch

This completes the assembly of the unit!
You did it! Take a breath and relax!

P.S.: Youll have extra parts. Theyre spares, you didnt miss anything.

2004 LCD INSTALLATION GUIDE (Optional)
1. Attach your ribbon cables from the LCD to the RAMPS 1.4 adapter board (small board to connect the RAMPS later).
2. Attach the RAMPS 1.4 adapter board to the RAMPS 1.4 board
3. Adjust the contrast on the LCD display with a small phillips screw driver.

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Prusa i3 Build Manual

Prusa i3 Build Manual

2015-2016 Reprap Guru, LLC | All Rights Reserved WWW.REPRAPGURU.COM

REPRAPGURU: Pursa i3 Build Tip Sheet **READ FIRST**

2015-2016 Reprap Guru, LLC | All Rights Reserved WWW.REPRAPGURU.COM

PGURU: Quick Page Reference (For after your build)

Check the X end stop distance ...................................................... 67

Check the distance for Y end stop ................................................ 68

Check the distance for Z end stop ................................................. 66

Hooking up "optional" LCD display ................................................ 74

Checking/resetting the Vref on the drivers boards ....................... 72

Print bed calibaration ............................... See configuration manual

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Basic Skills Required:

. A little better than basic understanding of electronics

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Step 1: Part Prep

Step 2: Identifying Hardware Bags

Hardware Bags Number Break Down

1. Metal Y Axis Base Frame

Lets start building assemblies!

Step 4: Assemble Y Axis Idler Bearing

(NOTE: All washers go under the bolt heads and nuts)

Set aside for later.

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Step 5: Assemble Y Bearing Holders

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Step 6: Assemble Y Carriage

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Step 7: Assemble X Carriage Bearings Into Carriage

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Step 8: Assemble Z Axis Bearings Into Z Carriage

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Step 9: Assemble Left Side Z Axis Carriage Idler Bearing

Set this aside for later.

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Step 10: Assemble Acrylic Motor Mounts

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Step 11: Attach Acrylic Motor Mounts To Acrylic Frame

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Step 12: Attach Couplers To Motors

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Step 13: Attach Motors To Mounts On Acrylic Frame

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Step 14: Attach Vertical Mounts To Acrylic Frame

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Step 15: Build X Assembly

Rods are hardware #13

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You should have an assembly that looks like this.

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Step 16: Build The X End stop

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Step 17: Mount The X End stop

Mount the X end stop to the smooth rod as shown:

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Step 19: Insert Threaded Z Rods Into The X Assembly

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Step 20: Mount X Assembly With Z Rods To Motors And Frame

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