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Morgue File
By: Courtney Graham

Page 3
 The Victorian Era
1850-1900

Duis Sed Sapien Nunc Et Orci

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 The Victorian Era

The Victorian Era can be characterized by formal fashions that

often reflected societal views of the time. A womans role during the
Victorian Era was to be a good wife and mother. Queen Victoria acted
as the moral architect for Victorian standards for women. Queen
Victoria can be attributed to the dark color palette seen in the
Victorian Era. Queen Victoria spent a good portion of her rein as
Queen mourning the death of her husband Prince Albert. As a fashion

1850-1900
icon, her dark color palette influenced the rest of society.
The hourglass silhouette was essential to the Victorian Era. A
young girl began wearing a corset at the age of three years old to create
the desired 17-inch waist. The silhouette of the Victorian Era included
full sleeves, small waist, and full floor length skirt created with
petticoats and a crinoline hoop. A womans attire consisted of two
pieces, a bodice and skirt. The silhouette of the Victorian Era greatly
restricted the movement of women.
Duis Sed Sapien
Two major events occurred during the Victorian Era that had an
impact on fashion. The discovery of Gold in Sutters Mill California
gave rise to work clothes and the creation of the first pair of jeans. The
Civil War had a huge impact on the Souths ability to produce goods, as
Page 3
garments could no longer be made in Northern Factories.

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 The Victorian Era

To create a full skirt in the Victorian Era, up to eight

petticoats were worn at a time over a crinoline hoop.
The hoop skirt was made of metal wire and muslin
tape, making them difficult to wear. A large hoop skirt

Womens Daywear
circumference symbolized wealth and indicated that
the woman wearing it had a big house with servants to
dress her. (Left)

During the 1860s and 70s, there was a shift from the
full circle look to more emphasis on the derriere. This
shift led to a fashion trend known as the bustle. The
bustle was created through pad of cork or down stuffing
that was worn under a skirt. The bustle attached to the
back of a womans skirt to hold the skirt out in the back.
Bustles were not used after the year 1903. (Right)

Duis Sed Sapien Girls began wearing corsets at the age of three years old.
The desired waist for a woman during the Victorian Era
was 17. Although corsets helped create the tiny waist
dictated by society, the garment was detrimental to a
womans health. As a result, women experienced stunted
Page 3 growth and a forced shift of internal organs to other
areas of the body. (Left)

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 The Victorian Era

To contrast a more narrow skirt, large Leg of Mutton sleeves

were seen in both womens daywear and eveningwear. The

Womens Eveningwear
sleeves were tight fitting from the wrist to elbow and ballooned
out at the shoulder and upper arm. Leg of Mutton sleeves gave
the allusion of a very tiny waist, desired by women of the
Victorian Era. (Left)

Dcollet referred to the low necklines of a blouse or dress during

the Victorian Era started in Great Britain. Low cut shoulders
became a traditional component of evening dresses and ball gowns,
only appropriate to be worn in eveningwear. During the Victorian
Era, it was only acceptable married women to show cleavage
through a dcollet neckline. (Right)

Prior to the year 1840, women frequently wore their nicest dress
to get married in on their wedding day. Queen Victorias
marriage to Prince Albert in 1840 ultimately changed bridal
fashions of the period. Queen Victoria was the first to wear a
white wedding dress on her wedding day, representing a womans
last day of virginity. Queen Victorias dress symbolized her
familys wealth rather than practicality. Even today, the idea of
Page 3 paying a significant amount of money on a dress to wear for one
day is still practiced. (Left)

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 The Victorian Era

The Chesterfield Overcoat was made of wool and paired with a

contrasting velvet or fur collar. The Overcoat was double breasted
and fitted in the waist. The man pictured to the left is wearing a
hat called the Bowler. The mans hat would have indicated his
status as a middle class man. (Left)

The double-breasted Frock Coat

fitted closely at the torso and
had a waist seam. The Frock

Menswear
Coat was paired with straight
trousers. The top hat, as
pictured to the right, was worn
for both day and formal dress.
The top hat indicated a mans
wealthy status in Victorian
Society. (Right)

The waistcoat was a waist length, sleeveless garment. A

waistcoat was worn under a suit or tuxedo jacket and
over a button up shirt. Often heavily embroidered or
made of silk, such as the one pictured to the left.
Waistcoats featured buttons down the front with two
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small pockets. The garment was worn to represent a
mans wealth. (Left)
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 The Victorian Era

Victorian women used parasols as fashion

accessories, as well as to shade their face and
skin from the sun. Parasols were made of
silk or lace with hand-carved handles.
Parasols not only provided shield from the
sun, they also indicated different stages of a
womans mourning process. (Left)

Accessories
Bonnets were frequently worn in the
Victorian Era as a fashion accessory.
Bonnets typically included a front brim with
coverage for the sides and back of the head.
Bonnets were made of straw and trimmed
with crepe, lace, satin, silk or velvet and tied
with ribbon underneath the chin. (Right)

Excess hair in the Victorian Era was never

thrown away. Extra hair was used to create
jewelry such as this locket seen on the left. A
woman would use her own hair, as well as
hair from family members to create a
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sentimental piece. (Left)

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The Edwardian Era
1901-1919

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 Edwardian Era

The Edwardian Era began after the death of Queen Victoria in 1901.
An era of dark colors and mourning came to an end with the influence of
Queen Alexandra of Denmark. Queen Alexandra loved light colors and to
show off her wealth by wearing expensive jewels. Women quickly mimicked
her style, including the Tea Gown, Alexandra Curl, and Alexandra Collar.
The popular art movement, Art Nouveau heavily inspired fashion trends
with its graceful exaggerated lines and elongated strokes. During the

1901-1919
Edwardian Era, woman saw a shift in silhouette with the introduction of
the S-Bend corset. Women removed their hoop skirts and bustles, as the
corset got longer.
The Edwardian Era signaled a shift towards female equality with the
representation of the Gibson Girl and the Womens Suffragette Movement.
WWI takes place in the U.S. between 1914 and 1918. Advances in
transportation and technology including mail order catalogs and the
creation of the Panama Canal, gave way to ready to wear clothing allowing
fashions to reach the consumer more quickly. Designers including Paul
Poiret and Mariano Fortuny both embraced moving toward a corset-less
silhouette through Fortunys Delphos Gown and Poirets Hobble Skirt. It is
their designs that foreshadow the silhouette of the 1920s decade.

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 Edwardian Era

Queen Alexandra popularized the Tea Gown for

womens daywear in the Edwardian Era. The style
of dress resembled a lingerie gown, due to its soft and
sexy appearance. Often made from flimsy chiffon or
silk, the gown was loose fitting and extremely
feminine. Its name refers to the color of the gown,
which was dipped in tea to stain the off-white color.

Womens Daywear
Women wore tea gowns during the period to host or
attend afternoon tea parties. (Left)

The shirtwaist was a womans starched blouse, which was

known as the feminine version of a mans button up shirt.
Although replicas of a mans shirt, the garment soon began
to feature frilly edges and insertions of lace. The shirtwaist
is often associated with the Gibson Girl, a character created
by Charles Dana Gibson. (Right)

The S-Bend corset shifted the emphasis on the

hourglass figure of the Victorian Era, to an
emphasis on a womans derriere. The S-Bend corset
created an overhanging heavily padded bust and a
small flat waist. The S-Bend was worn low down on
Page 3 the bust and extended over the hips. (Left)

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 Edwardian Era

Designer Mariano Fortuny created the Delphos Gown

using a special pleating process he patented in 1909. The
gown was a cylindrically shaped, loose fitting silk garment
with undulated rich color. Unfortunately, this method of

Womens Eveningwear
pleating was lost after Fortunys death. (Left)

The pantaloon gown created by designer Paul Poiret was

considered very avant-garde. Asian inspired, full-length
harem-style trousers were pleated or gathered into a band at
the ankle. The evening ensemble become popular after Sergei
Diaghilevs Ballets Russes first performed in Paris in 1909.
(Right)

Created by designer Paul Poiret, the cocoon coat took inspiration

from the kimono. The evening coat was often made of velvet, silk,
or wool, and held together with one closure in the front. The oval
shaped coat was frequently trimmed with fur. The cocoon coat
Page 3 remained popular in womens wear until the 1920s. (Left)

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 Edwardian Era

Boater hats made up the male uniform for the summer

sport of boating during the Edwardian era. The
circular hat was made of straw, featuring a flat top
and straight brim. The crown was usually trimmed
with a band or ribbon, as featured in the photograph.
(Left)

Menswear
An Edwardian mans cycling outfit featured a pair of
canvas shoes and Knickerbocker pants, as seen in the picture
to the right. Knickerbockers were loose, full breeches that were
gathered below the knee and fastened with a button or buckle.
Young boys previously wore knickerbockers before the pants
were adapted into menswear. This garment was very
practical, since many people owned bicycles. (Right)

The smoking jacket was made of silk, velvet or brocade

fabrics. The long sleeved short jacket was decorated with
buttons down the front. Worn at home, the smoking jacket
was popular during the second half of the 19th century.
Like the name implies, men frequently wore smoking
Page 3 jackets to smoke a cigar or have a drink after dinner. (Left)

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 Edwardian Era

Queen Alexandra of Denmark popularized the Alexandra

Collar, a choker that was worn high on the neck. Wealthy
women owned chokers featuring a combination of pearls,
diamonds, and other precious stones. The average Edwardian
woman would have owned a simple black velvet ribbon. Queen
Alexandra wore this item to conceal a large scar on her neck
that she obtained after falling off a horse. (Left)

Accessories
Long and rectangular shaped, the Knossos Scarf
was made of sheer silk. In creating the Knossos
Scarf, designer Mariano Fortuny took inspiration
from the clothing styles of the ancient Cretan
civilization. (Right)

The Chignon hairstyle was popularized by the Gibson

Girl character. The Chignon featured hair coiled into
a loose bun that was pinned on top of the head or to
the back of the neck. The Gibson Girl set a standard of
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youthful femininity and education for women. (Left)

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The 1920s
19201929

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 The 1920s

Often called the roaring twenties to symbolize the decade

long party that took place between 1920-1929. The 1920s was a
great time for change, especially in regards to womens fashion.
As societys views for what was appropriate for women began to

1920-1929
change, so did the silhouette. Women sported a more masculine
and straight silhouette. The ideal hourglass look previously
admired by prior decades was replaced with less conservative
hemlines. Although the 1920s was a time of prohibition, young
women called flappers were seen drinking in public and dancing
the Charleston at jazz clubs.
During the 1920s African Americans become part of the
middle class. Jazz players including Louie Armstrong and singers
Billie Holiday Josephine Baker become cultural icons. A popular
jazz club, The Cotton Club, influenced many fashion trends. The
public adopted styles of Egyptian influenced beading and makeup
as worn by Chorus line girls.
Once of the most influential designers of the decade, Coco
Chanel, begins her career during the 1920s. Her iconic Little
Black Dress becomes a staple in every womans closet due to its
easy transition from night to day. Other designers including
Jeanne Lanvin with her impact on eveningwear and Jean Patou
with his impact on sportswear define the styles of the 1920s
decade.

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 The 1920s

Undergarments in the 1920s underwent drastic changes from

the previous decade. Women were no longer restricted to

Womens Daywear
wearing a corset to shape a tiny wait. Instead, bandeau style
brassieres were worn as pictured to the left, to hide or flatten
a womans breasts in order to create a boyish look. (Left)

Garconne style was popular in womens daywear during the

1920s decade. This style referenced a young woman sporting a
boyish silhouette of a flat chest and straight waist, paired with
short hair. Clothing was masculine and worn with overtly
feminine makeup. (Right)

Iconic designer Coco Chanel saw everything in fashion as

overdone. Chanel introduced the concept of black and white
dressing by creating the Little Black Dress during the
1920s. This dress was simple and appropriate for work, yet
chic enough to go out in after leaving the office. The Little
Page 3 Black Dress became a staple piece in the wardrobe of the
1920s woman. Chanel is famously pictured wearing a cloche
hat and pearls in combination with her black dress. (Left)
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 The 1920s

As societal views towards what was appropriate

for women began to change, flapper girls

Womens Eveningwear
emerged. A flapper was a young woman who cut
her hair short, wore cloche hats, and sported
shortened hemlines. Flappers often wore
stockings rolled at the knee and T-bar shoes.
These women drank in public and were
commonly seen dancing the Charleston. (Left)

Designer Jeanne Lanvin created the Robe de Style look of the

1920s. The dress pictured to the right featured a close fitting
bodice with either a natural or low waistline. A full bouffant
skirt reached to a womans calf or ankle. Lanvin was famous
for balancing empty space and her creation of Lanvin Blue.
The designer most often used ribbons, ruffles, silk and
embroidery to complete her designs. (Right)

Chorus Line girls from the popular jazz club

the Cotton Club, quickly inspired
eveningwear styles. Chorus Girl costumes
popularized Egyptian beading and heavy
makeup styles during the 1920s. Singer and
Page 3 dancer Josephine Baker inspired designers
with her flamboyant look and attitude. (Left)

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 The 1920s

College men, also known as Cake

Eaters, were the male version of the
flapper during the 1920s. The cake
eater style was defined by slicked back
hair, wide leg oxford bag trousers, and
loud raccoon fur coats. (Left)

Menswear
Plus fours were a style of knickers worn in the 1920s
by college-aged men for sporting events. The name
references the fact that the knickers were four inches
longer than classic knickers worn during the previous
decade. This particular image features a broken
Herringbone pattern. (Right)

In the 1920s, a more traditional 3-piece suit replaced the

morning suit seen in menswear in previous decades. The 3-
piece suit was made entirely of the same fabric and color, as
seen in the picture to the left. Men moved away from jackets
and trousers that were different and instead preferred
Page 3 matching pieces. The man pictured is sporting a fedora hat.
(Left)

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 The 1920s

Womens heeled T-bar shoes became popular

during the 1920s decade. The name is derived from
the T-shaped strap cut from the upper of the shoe.
T-bars could be dyed to match a womans dress,
making them very practical choice for eveningwear.
The heeled shoe took inspiration from the art deco
movement that began during the decade. (Left)

Accessories
Popularized by flappers, the cloche hat fit tightly on a
womans head. The French name cloche refers to the
hats bell shape with deep crown. The tight fitting hat
covered the whole head including the back of the neck.
The cloche hat was worn pulled down low over the
forehead, featuring a small brim or mainly brimless look.
(Right)

Actress Louise Brooks popularized the Eton style bob

hairstyle during the 1920s. The Eton bob was straight
with a curl on the side of each cheek. The example to
the left features the bob style with bangs. Other bob
styles including the poodle bob for naturally curly hair,
Page 3 and the shingle created by using a Marcel tool, were
also popular during the decade. (Left)

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 The 1930s
1930 -1939

Page 3

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 The 1930s

The 1930s can best be described as the Era of Escapism.

After the crash of the U.S. stock market in 1929, the Great
Depression struck the nation. The hard times faced by the
nation directly influenced fashion trends of the decade. Prints

1930 - 1939
became popular to save cost, as well as the use of the peplum,
to create the illusion of a two-piece outfit. Loungewear also
became more popular, as Americans began spending more time
in their own homes. The 1930s silhouette returns to a more
natural waistline and slim fit. Madeleine Vionnet influences
the 1930s silhouette with her creation of the bias cut. This cut
was most often seen in eveningwear and in Hollywood.
To escape their own troubles, people turn to Hollywood
film stars including Jean Harlow, Cary Grant, Mae West, and
Joan Crawford. Hollywood films stars had a huge impact on
fashion trends during the 1930s, as men and women desire to
look like their favorite actors and actresses. Hollywood
designer Gilbert Adrian receives great recognition for his
designs for famous stars.
President Roosevelt creates the New Deal in an effort to
get the country back on its feet again and promote democracy.
As many people are forced to live without jobs, Americans are
forced to live simpler lives without luxury. Most importantly,
fashions during the 1930s reflected the economic state seen
Page 3
throughout the country.

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 The 1930s

As woman began spending more time at home in the

1930s, loungewear started to become more popular.
Bed Jackets were made of lightweight synthetic
fabrics to be worn in bed over a nightgown. Bed

Womens Daywear
Jackets could be any length between the bust and
waist. (Left)

Palazzo pants were womens wide leg, straight-line

culottes. They featured soft flared legs that were gathered
at the waistband. Palazzo pants became a popular item
for womens beachwear during the 1930s. (Right)

Womens suits, known as Stream Liners, were popular

for womens daywear during the 1930s. English mens
tailors such as Hartnell and Jaeger began making
womens suits in order to stay in business during the
Great Depression. Fabrics used to create mens suits,
were now used for women. Tweed and Navy were two
Page 3 of the most popular styles of womens suits during the
1930s. (Left).

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 The 1930s

Hollywood designer Gilbert Adrian created the Letty

Lynton dress worn by actress Joan Crawford in 1932. The
dress featured a trumpet silhouette created through layers of
organdy and a natural waistline. Slim cut through the hips

Womens Eveningwear
and thighs, the dress played on Crawfords feminine curves.
Women of the 1930s identified with actresses like Joan
Crawford and what they saw in movies. The Letty Lynton
dress had a huge impact on 1930s fashion. Over 500,000
versions of the dress were sold at Macys Department Store
after the movies release. (Left).

Inspired by Greek vases and Egyptian Frescos, designer

Madeleine Vionnet created the bias cut. Typical evening
dresses of the 1930s featured the long, draping technique
of Madeleine Vionnets bias cut. Womens eveningwear
was extremely feminine and hugged the female figure.
This method of draping was perfect for Hollywood, as the
bias cut played on light and dark. Dresses typically were
made of silk or satin material. (Right)

Designer Elsa Schiaparelli rivaled Coco Chanel during the

1930s. Schiaparelli was best known for adding Trompe Loiel,
or fool the eye, in her eveningwear designs. Elsa Schiaparelli
believed that fashion should be fun, whereas, other fashion
designers took fashion to seriously. The Surrealist art
Page 3 movement, that expressed the subconscious through imagery,
influenced many of Schiaparellis designs. The dress pictured
to the left is titled The Lobster Dress. (Left)
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 The 1930s

Popularized by Black and Hispanic men, Zoot Suits

were a protest against the treatment of minorities serving
in the military during WWII. Zoot Suit pants were full
in the upper leg and tapered at the ankle. Jackets
featured broad shoulders, wide lapels, and a narrow
waist. The jacket rested at around knee-length, defying
all fabric restrictions set in place during the war. Men
accessorized Zoot Suits with an eye-catching tie, chocked

Menswear
hair, and a wide brimmed hat. (Left)

The Fedora hat was a popular menswear accessory

during the 1930s. Made of soft felt, the hat had a
tapered crown with center crease. The hat featured a
pinched front with snap-brim. (Right)

Actor Cary Grant popularized wearing

vests in menswear during the 1930s. Cary
Grant was a significant fashion icon and
Page 3 labeled by Hollywood The Sophisticate.
(Left)

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 The 1930s

Hairstyles of the 1930s were very similar to those

worn in the 1920s. Women frequently wore versions
of a grown out bob, as seen pictured to the left.
Hollywood star Greta Garbo popularized the Page
Boy haircut, which was a grown out bob that hung
below the ear and flipped under. (Left)

Accessories
Hat designer Lilly Dache was best known
for her outrageously flamboyant hat
designs during the 1930s and 1940s. Hats
served as great accessories during the 1930s
because a woman could easily update the
look of an old outfit without spending a
large amount of money. (Right)

The traditional pump style, still

seen today, was popular beginning
in the 1930s. Unlike the styles seen
in the 1920s, the pump heel did not
feature a strap across the front. This
style of heel easily transitioned
Page 3 from day to night, making the pump
a must have accessory. (Left)

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 The 1940s
1940-1949

Page 3

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 The 1940s

A time of great patriotism, WWII hugely impacts

the 1940s decade. Most men were drafted to the war and
women contributed to the war effort at home. For the
first time, we see women leave the home and participate
in factory jobs. During the 1940s, women borrow
clothing from their husbands closets, wearing pants for

1940-1949
the first time. To encourage ongoing patriotism
throughout the war, The Office of War Information
created Rosie the Riveter. Rosie was a character that all
women could relate to. Rosie sported her most
important accessory; a smile. The U.S. enforces a
rationing system to purchase clothing, food, and
accessories.
Due to the war, menswear saw little change from
the previous decade. Military uniforms are considered
appropriate for almost any occasion; therefore men did
not own a multitude of clothing. Women typically
owned one or two nice dresses that they would wear to
accompany a solider to U.S.O officer balls.
Towards the end of the war in 1945, rations ended
and designer Christian Dior was challenged to use as
much fabric as possible. Diors New Look,
Page 3
foreshadows the full silhouette seen during the 1950s
decade.
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 The 1940s

Influential designer Claire McCardell created The

Monastic, which was a practical piece for womens
daywear. Cut on the bias, The Monastic can be
described as a flowing, robe-like tent design that was
shaped to the wearer. The dress was finished with a
sash or belt around the waist. Due to the loose design,
this dress was often worn as maternity wear. (Left)

Womens Daywear
In 1947, Dior created the Bar
Suit that featured a full circle
pleated skirt and silk
shantung jacket. Diors
return to the small waist of
the Victorian Era became
known as The New Look.
Diors New Look
emphasizing the bust and
minimizing the waist paved
the way for the full silhouette
worn by housewives in the
1950s.Undergarments
similar to the corset including
the Merry Widow and Waist
Nipper were worn to create
this silhouette. (Right)

During WWII, women wore pants for the first time.

Fashions developed from menswear as wives often took
clothing from their husbands closets to wear to work in
the factories. Flannel shirts, work pants, jeans, overalls,
and coveralls characterized a womans wardrobe
during the 1940s. To create a more feminine look,
Page 3 women would pair a floral or gingham top with her
husbands pants. Women drew direct influence from
Rosie the Riveter. (Left)

28
 The 1940s

Designer Edith Head was best known for

showcasing a stars best attributes while
downplaying their flaws. Designing for more than
1,000 films, Edith head was a talented but ruthless
designer. Pictured to the left, is actress Veronica

Womens Eveningwear
Lake wearing a gown designed by Edith Head.
(Left)

During WWII,
extravagant wedding dresses became a thing of the past. War
brides often wore their nicest suit to get married in since
materials such as lace and silk were prohibited during the war.
War brides wore dresses much shorter than a traditional full-
length wedding dress and often in pastel colors. (Right)

During WWII, there was little need for women to own

formalwear. A womans wardrobe would have mostly
consisted of clothing to wear in the factories, with
maybe one or two formal dresses. These dresses were
called Snag a Man, and worn to dance with military
men at officer clubs. As the name implies, the sole
purpose was to find a potential husband during these
Page 3 dances. Most women needed to save all of their
rationed coupons to purchase a Snag a Man dress.
(Left)
29
 The 1940s

Menswear in the 1940s saw very few changes. Most

men were drafted to fight in WWII, therefore
military uniforms made up a mans wardrobe.
During the 1940s, military uniforms were
appropriate to wear for any occasion, formal or
informal. Therefore, menswear during this decade
was very simple. (Left)

Menswear
Demobilization was the British governments
approach to returning men to society after the
end of WWII. As men searched for work, the
British government provided them with a
package. This package included: a suit and
shirt, two detachable cuffs, two pairs of socks,
one pair of shoes, a tie, a set of cuff-links, and a
hat. The image below shows a young man
trying on his new suit jacket. Often called the
Demob Suit. (Below)
Men often brought home
souvenir clothing after
returning from war. One
souvenir garment that became
popular in menswear during the
1940s was the Hawaiian shirt.
President Harry Truman is
responsible for the shirts
Page 3
widespread popularity. (Above)

30
 The 1940s

Hollywood Star Veronica Lake displayed appropriate

hairstyles for women working in factories. Long hair was
potentially dangerous for women working with heavy
machinery. Victory hairstyles including the Victory Roll,
the Heidi, and the Chignon pinned a womans hair on top
of her head and away from her face while working. (Left)

Accessories
American soldiers often kept sexy pictures of Pin-up
Girls in their wallets or lockers. The Pin-up Girl style
of the 1940s led to a change in womens
undergarments. The Bullet Bra, pictured to the right,
was a very structured cone-like undergarment
popularized by Pin-Up girls. (Right).

As part of the war effort, Nylon and silk could no

longer be used to make womens stocking during the
1940s. Since these two items were prohibited, women
found creative ways to create an allusion of wearing
stockings. As seen in the picture to the left, women
would apply black eyeliner to the back of their legs to
Page 3 represent of the back seam of stockings. During the
1940s women began wearing ankle socks to replace
stockings. (Left)
31
 The 1950s
1950 1959

Page 3

32
 The 1950s

The 1950s saw the return of traditional family values.

Women returned to the home as WWII ended. Most
women had grown accustomed to running their own
homes while their husbands were at war. With the return
to a male dominated household, 1950s housewives turn
to antidepressant drugs. This becomes known as the

1950-1959
Happy Housewife Syndrome.
With the introduction of Christian Diors New Look,
the 1950s sees a full silhouette. This look was most widely
accepted by 1950s housewives. The look featured full
bouffant skirts, with a return to a narrow waist. The
second silhouette seen during the 1950s was a slender
silhouette. This look was adopted by independent
workingwomen. Fitted pencil skirts and dress and coat
combinations were worn to create this silhouette. As men
began to find careers in the advertising industry, cocktail
dresses were popularized.
Joseph McCarthys Red Scare directly influences
Hollywood in the 1950s. Musicals become popular to
avoid being accused of portraying a communist plot.
Hollywood stars are classified into the two different looks
of the period. Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren are
labeledPage
as3Sex Kittens, while Lucille Ball represented the
classic 1950s housewife.

33
 The 1950s

Two silhouettes were popular in womens wear during

the 1950s; slender and full. The slender silhouette was
often associated with independent working women of
the decade. Fitted pencil skirts were worn to create
this look, along with dress or coat combinations. The
silhouette made women look straight and slim. (Left)

Womens Daywear
Housewives favored the full silhouette of the
1950s. The look featured very full, bouffant skirts
with a narrow waist. The full silhouette is
recognized for its return to Victorian ideals of
beauty found in a large bust and tiny waist. (Right)

A new style came out of Greenwich Village during

the 1950s. Beatniks were a young crowd that
enjoyed listening to jazz and attending poetry
readings. They often criticized consumerism and
traditional forms of art. Beatniks popularized baggy
hip length sweaters called Sloppy Joe sweaters
Page 3 and cigarette pants. They mainly incorporated
black into their wardrobes and were seen wearing
Beret hats. (Left)
34
 The 1950s

Designer Charles James was best known for his

architecturally sound dress components.

Womens Eveningwear
James sculpted ball gowns resembled items
found in nature. The gown pictured to the left is
titled Four-Leaf Clover after its clover-like
shape. Although a great designer, James was
shunned from the fashion world for his
conniving attitude. (Left)

The Fishtail dress, created by designer Charles

James, quickly became a part of eveningwear in the
1950s. Although most cocktail dresses were T-
length, the fishtail dress was floor-length. The fishtail
dress was the only dress worn during cocktail hour in
the 1950s that was full length. (Right)

As men began to accept jobs in advertising during the

1950s, cocktail hour became very important. Cocktail
hour was labeled the time after 6pm but before dinner.
Cocktail dresses were important as wives were expected
Page 3 to entertain their husbands colleagues over cocktails.
Most cocktail dresses were T-length meaning, the dress
hit right below the knee or about mid-calf. (Left)
35
 The 1950s

Teddy Boys emerged during the 1950s. This group

of working class British adolescents helped interpret
postwar styles in menswear. Showcasing an
Edwardian flavor, Teddy Boys wore longer jackets
with shaped cuff sleeves, waistcoats, and well-cut
narrow trousers. Teddy Boys were best known as the

Menswear
British Bad Boy. (Left)

An alternative to the tuxedo emerged during the

1950s. The alternative featured a white pique
sports jacket with shawl collar. Black tuxedo
pants had a satin stripe down the sides. The
look was accessorized with a black or white
cummerbund and bowtie. Known as the James
Bond Look, this outfit was okay to be worn
during cocktail hour. (Right)

Madras featured fabric made from

vegetable dyed cotton yarn that
was hand woven into large bold
checks. The look originated from
Page 3 India and was worn in mens
daywear and summer attire. (Left)

36
 The 1950s

The stiletto heel was popularized in the

1950s. The high, narrow nail-like heel
originated in Italy. The heel was made of
nylon and plastic, covering a steel core.
Also referred to as the spike heel. (Left)

Accessories
During the 1950s, women used hair
spray to hold hairstyles into place. One
popular style was the bouffant. The
bouffant was distinguished by an
oversized flip. This look was achieved
through the process of teasing and
fluffing ones hair. (Right)

The Pork-Pie-Hat was a popular

accessory in menswear during the
1950s. The hat featured a classic
snap-brim, flattop, and crease around
the edge of the crown. The Pork-Pie-
Page 3 Hat was made of fabric, straw, or felt.
(Left)

37
 The 1960s
1960-1969

Page 3

38
 The 1960s

The 1960s was a time of great social change, especially in the

area of Civil Rights and feminism. The Black Panther party was
founded in order to advance conditions of African Americans. This
group had a huge impact on fashions during the 1960s with a

1960-1969
distinctive style of black t-shirts and beret hats. The feminist
movement began with the release of Betty Friedmans book, The
Feminine Mystique. Friedmans book calls for women to question
careers, family life, and personal sexuality. Hippies advocated for
peace instead of war. Hippies formed protests against the Vietnam
War during the 1960s. Hippie fashion swept the nation. Often
associated with grown out hair, bare feet, and natural fabrics, the
hippie movement was unlike any other.
Music had a major impact on fashion during the 1960s. Musical
groups including The Beatles, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, and
Motown became extremely popular and served as fashion icons. The
British Evasion led to a trend of Carnaby street style. Model
Twiggy was another huge fashion icon during the 1960s. Twiggy
helped popularize designer Mary Quants mini-skirt.
Influential designer Yves Saint Laurent created ready to wear
lines and haute couture based on street trends, Designer Oleg
Cassini designed over 300 dresses for First Lady Jackie Kennedy
during her husbands presidency. Jackie Kennedy was the first
Page 3
American Presidents wife to create such an impact on the fashion
world.
39
 The 1960s

Jackie Kennedy wore the dress pictured to the left

at the pre inaugural gala in 1961. Created by
designer Oleg Cassini, the A line dress was made
of wool and featured a removable collar of
Russian sable. Cassini designed over 300 dresses

Womens Daywear
for Jackie Kennedy during her husbands
presidency. Jackie Kennedy is most famous for
her coat and dress A line combinations. (Left)

Often credited with the creation of the mini skirt, Mary

Quant geared her designs towards the young a hip.
The mini skirt became the epitome of British style
during the 1960s. Cut well above the knee, the mini
skirt was considered avant garde from the previous
decade. (Right)

The hippie was the successor to the beatnik.

Hippies grew long hair, dressed colorfully, and
walked around barefoot. The hippie look began
in San Francisco with the flower people. Men
Page 3 began growing their hair out as a protest
against the Vietnam War. Clothes were made
from natural fibers such as cotton and hemp.
(Left)
40
 The 1960s

Designer Yves Saint Laurent impacted the

Womens Eveningwear
fashion world with his Mondrian dress.
Eveningwear and daywear began to look very
similar during the 1960s decade. The dress was
inspired by geometric paintings in black, white,
yellow, and blue. The Mondrian dress could be
easily transitioned from day to night based on
accessories. (Left)

Pantsuits became
popular for womens
eveningwear during the
1960s. Pantsuits were
often worn with
heeled boots. Yves
Saint Laurent created
the Le Smoking:
Womens tuxedo as
pictured to the right.
(Right)

Jackie Kennedy was iconic for her eveningwear in

the 1960s. Women admired her classic solid color
Page 3 dresses with matching jacket. Jackie Kennedy was
the First American Presidents wife to inspire
trends in a way that was similar to British Royalty.
(Left)
41
 The 1960s

The Nehru jacket trend started with

Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India.
The Beatles popularized the Nehru jacket
at their famous performance at Shea
Stadium in 1965. Its straight, hip length

Menswear
with standing collar characterized the
jacket. (Left)

The Black Panther Party was a militant

group of African American students
who wanted to better the condition of
African Americans. The Black Panthers
were fashionably known for wearing
black t-shirts, jean pants, berets, and
black leather. As seen in the picture to
the right, most men sported natural
Afro hairstyles. (Right)

A Dashiki was a loose, often colorfully

patterned pullover garment originating from
Page 3 Africa. While traditionally worn by men,
women later adopted the style. (Left)

42
 The 1960s

Holston is attributed to making Jackie Kennedys

first pillbox hat. This hat was a small oval shape with
straight sides and a flat top. (Left)

The Pucci Print, designed by Emilio Pucci, Accessories

featured bright psychedelic swirls and
curvilinear designs. The soft drug scene
of the 1960s influenced Puccis designs.
(Above)

Designer Rudi Gernrich created the no bra.

The bra was made of molded nylon cups
attached to shoulder straps and a narrow
Page 3 elastic band circling the rib cage. The no
bra was made to give to appearance and feel
of not wearing a bra. (Left)
43
Works Cited
Victorian Era
Crinoline Hoop (1860s). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from
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q=hoop+skirt&result=2&rskey=ZPW8kz&type=image&zoom=medium

Bustle (1885). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.
net/brooklyn/d0001/bma_26.371a-
b_side_cp4.fpx/ZRi6Hefm8SF3oc25RrivoA/1461091515/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26r
gnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

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net/brooklyn/d0001/bma_42.293_front_cp4.fpx/YUepbbOBoy6_kOsvwQeybQ/1460048
590/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

Dcollet (1852). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/67765169364729016/

Wedding Dress (1840). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/celebrity-photos/2011/04/12/iconic-wedding-
dresses/gallery/614937

Frock Coat (1871). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/introduction-to-19th-century-fashion/

Chesterfield Overcoat (1860s). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

https://s-media-cache-
ak0.pinimg.com/236x/85/29/5a/85295acd248065a03ce0a12f4d3ea955.jpg

Waistcoat (1850s). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/91034

Parasol (1860). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/kerrytaylor/31358.xml?isfuzzy=no&q=parasol
&result=1&rskey=KuHp5d

Bonnet (1860s). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2112/4511778148_21f359d1c2_z.jpg

Hair Art (1850s). Retrieved March 30, 2016 from

http://cdnmain.glamcheck.com/archive/images/stories/stories/Designers-
Corner/Fashion-Research/hair-art/hair-art-brooch.jpg

44
Edwardian Era

Tea Gown (1906). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/Philadelphia/23161.xml

Shirtwaist (1900). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86051

S-Bend (1904). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.n
et/brooklyn/d0001/bma_50.105.119_side_cp4.fpx/HVUIlEZLEO2JocJTtPCJRg/146004450
3/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

Delphos Gown (1907). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://www.skinnerinc.com/news/blog/mariano-fortuny-delphos-gown-clothing-as-art-
form/

Pantaloon Gown (1911). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1983.8a,b/

Cocoon Coat (1910). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81602

Boater Hat (1910). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.n
et/brooklyn/d0001/bma_59.45.9_cp4.fpx/mFcXHmPV250GTwg_IYpxzQ/1460045036/%3
Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

Knickerbockers (1910). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.n
et/schles/d0001/sch_101332834244_img0105.fpx/SYU7Zw5FyvrRKE5GZSFKAg/146004
4680/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

Smoking Jacket (1910). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139037/smoking-suit-unknown/

Alexandra Collar (1895). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://www.npg.org.uk/blog/bassano-the-man-himself.php

Knossos Scarf (1906). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79264?img=3&imgNo=1&tabName=o
bject-information

Gibson Girl (1890). Retrieved April 1, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.n
et/mcad/d0001/kohl_mcad_06092853_8b_srgb.fpx/e9_hMHBs7wDHWRQ5h8o0qg/1460
078878/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

45
The 1920s

Brassiere (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/105787

Garconne (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-
0WmaR9mcwhw/ULVuUrIbEOI/AAAAAAAAAC4/CdT0tOChKic/s1600/1940s+WORLD+W
AR+2+RECRUITMENT+vintage+advertisement+illustration+soldiers+military+dress+h
andsome+men.jpg

Coco Chanel (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016

http://www.littleblackdress.co.uk/life-of-chanel/images/timeline-01.jpg

Flappers (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://www.charlestonchallengedownunder.com.au/wp-
content/uploads/2011/11/charleston-dance-1920s.jpg

Robes de Style (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157340

Chorus Line (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4054/4666990210_3a2fcc5076_z.jpg

Cake Eaters (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://static.messynessychic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/racoon.jpg

Plus Fours (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157033

3-Piece Suit (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.
net/schles/d0001/sch_632630720260_img0068.fpx/lTHG9nHMkoiHRX952455MQ/1460
045725/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

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http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/met/15390.xml?isfuzzy=no&page=1&q=bob&
result=1&rskey=cd8fp2&type=image&zoom=medium

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http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.
net/sslps/c35953/10385804.fpx/akiWA9pOTJTUkRuZruJ7lQ/1460048339/%3Fcell%3D
400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

Eton Bob (1920s). Retrieved April 4, 2016 from

http://www.imdb.com/media/rm3046676480/nm0000315?ref_=nmmd_md_pv

46
The 1930s

Bed Jacket (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

http://library.artstor.org/library/printImage.jsp?imageurl=http%3A//imgserver.artstor.n
et/brooklyn/d0001/bma_55.26.121_front_cp4.fpx/p8hBAFB1JvlRurgMY6uIJQ/14600004
59/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0.0257034640874289%2C0.0090191293690
4331%2C0.850620098852169%2C0.990980870630957%26cvt%3DJPEG

Palazzo Pants (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

https://thevintagespectator.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/renee_-juan-les-pins_-may-
1930.jpg

Streamliners (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

https://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1930s_clothing_women_files
/image016.jpg

Letty Lynton (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

http://www.imdb.com/media/rm4285437952/tt0023132?ref_=ttmd_md_pv

Bias Cut (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82589

Trompe LOiel (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/65327.html?mulR=1131578012|8

Zoot Suit (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

http://www.lacma.org/art/exhibition/reigning-men-fashion-menswear

Fedora (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

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et/sslps/c35953/10385430.fpx/bQqSedF_mzpMtUgSIgTLMQ/1459999619/%3Fcell%3D4
00%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3DJPEG

Cary Grant (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016

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640-614.jpg

Gown out Bob (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

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Pe3PfIU8oIY/UOnWa8QSmqI/AAAAAAAAXgk/lP0iKySiLIo/s1600/lorettayoung3.jpg

Lilly Dache (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016

http://www.wornthrough.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/lily-dache-g-regders-
1936.jpg

Pumps (1930s). Retrieved April 5, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158449

47
The 1940s

Monastic (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157273

The Bar Suit (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81460

Rosie the Riveter (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

http://www.seattlepi.com/local/seattle-history/slideshow/P-I-Archives-Boeing-from-
WWII-to-the-start-of-6749/photo-757626.php

Edith Head (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016

http://i2.wp.com/www.theskinnystiletto.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/veronica-
lake-5.jpg?resize=584%2C704

War Bride (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016

http://www.gibrides.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Lyn-and-Bens-wedding.jpg

Snag a Man (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

https://news.ku.edu/sites/news.ku.edu/files/images/general/canteen1.png

Military Uniforms (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

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0WmaR9mcwhw/ULVuUrIbEOI/AAAAAAAAAC4/CdT0tOChKic/s1600/1940s+WORLD+WAR
+2+RECRUITMENT+vintage+advertisement+illustration+soldiers+military+dress+hands
ome+men.jpg

Hawaiian Shirt (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

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0WmaR9mcwhw/ULVuUrIbEOI/AAAAAAAAAC4/CdT0tOChKic/s1600/1940s+WORLD+WAR
+2+RECRUITMENT+vintage+advertisement+illustration+soldiers+military+dress+hands
ome+men.jpg

Demobilization Suit (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

https://s-media-cache-
ak0.pinimg.com/600x315/43/88/4d/43884d4ac7e137010b3ea264474cec8c.jpg

Victory Roll (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016

http://www.imdb.com/media/rm2601327104/tt0036367?ref_=ttmd_md_pv

Bullet Bra (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016

https://s-media-cache-
ak0.pinimg.com/736x/04/93/ac/0493acded4246a9579d57932c144d028.jpg

Stockings (1940s). Retrieved April 6, 2016 from

http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/wordpress/wp-
content/uploads/2012/01/Stockings.jpg

48
The 1950s

1950s Slender Silhouette (1950s). Retrieved April 10, 2016 from

http://thevalentine.org/node/381#

1950s Full Silhouette (1950s). Retrieved April 10, 2016 from

http://indulgy.com/post/nj3nh6QBY1/dior-new-look

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et/brooklyn/d0001/bma_53.169.1_threequarter_front_cp3.fpx/xdP6t1t6O7MF_VQWNJi-
pA/1460078097/%3Fcell%3D400%2C400%26rgnn%3D0%2C0%2C1%2C1%26cvt%3D
JPEG

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Cocktail Dress (1950s). Retrieved April 10, 2016 from

http://www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=l&tid=43574916

Teddy Boy (1950s). Retrieved April 10, 2016 from

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02.jpg

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Madras (1950s). Retrieved April 10, 2016 from

https://42ndblackwatch1881.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/shorts2.jpg

Stiletto (1950s). Retrieved April 10, 2016 from

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https://s-media-cache-
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https://s-media-cache-
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49
The 1960s

Jackie Kennedy (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://www.jfklibrary.org/~/media/assets/museum%20objects/artifacts/clothing/beige
%20coatjpeg.jpg?h=566

Mini Skirt (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

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Mondrian Dress (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://www.vam.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0005/181940/T.369-
1974_mondrian_1000px.jpg

Pantsuit (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://www.parischerie.com/wp-
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00/jacqueline_kennedy+in+gown+PD.jpg

Nehru Coat (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://blog.finnfemme.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Image-628.jpg

Black Panthers (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://d39ya49a1fwv14.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/black-panthers.jpg

Dashiki (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

https://s-media-cache-
ak0.pinimg.com/736x/89/2d/b1/892db143b5b50d4c7f4b85af21f468b3.jpg

Pillbox Hat (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/6444370.jpg

Pucci Print (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://static1.squarespace.com/static/533fc72be4b076ea499423fd/t/54ddb6aae4b0aa6
12e8e7d9e/1423816363557/

No bra (1960s). Retrieved April 16, 2016 from

http://static1.squarespace.com/static/5135679de4b0f73356365f3c/t/52df3bbde4b0bd4
ef9c67803/1390361534904/NoBra.jpg

50