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This publication has been produced by www.discoversinai.net to promote responsible tourism and to
support local communities. For this reason it is freely available as a pdf file and can be reproduced
and distributed, but only in its entirety. Using images or parts of the document, or any unauthorized
alteration, including deleting, editing or adding content, is prohibited. For personal use single pages
can be printed or photocopied. This publication should only be used planning your treks and
enhancing the experience; it is not a substitute for a local Bedouin guide, who is both necessary and
also mandatory for most treks. No responsibilities are accepted for any loss or damage occurred from
using this publication. Please feel free to point out inaccuracies or suggest necessary changes at
updates@discoversinai.net. All text and images remain the copyright of their respective owners.
2009 www.discoversinai.net and Kelvin J. Bown, Mirjam Duymaer van Twist, Emily Eros, Dr. Francis Gilbert,
Andy Killey, Joshua Lohnes, Dave Lucas, Said Mahmoud Salah, Zoltan Matrahazi, Suliman Subail el Heneny,
Gordon Wilkinson, Dr. Samy Zalat and photographers of the fauna and flora section as named
PART I. Introduction 3
Discover Sinai 3
Orientation 4
Organizing a trek or safari 5
Ecotourism in Egypt 8
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 2
PART I. Introduction
Discover Sinai
South Sinai is a truly diverse and unique land that cannot fail to captivate any visitor that allows its
blend of history, culture and nature to wash over them. We hope this guide will help you to experience
the less well known parts of what makes this land so special.
The most immediately striking aspect of this area is the incredible natural beauty. The South
Sinai massif is an isolated block of some of the worlds oldest rocks dating back 700million years. Yet
for such a barren land there really is wondrous variety. Within short distances visitors can find
themselves walking through beautiful canyons to lush green oases; or, hiking down rugged sandy
wadis, across stunning dunes and up incredible granite mountains. The natural beauty, and contrast
that exist here, constantly take your breath away.
The Sinai peninsula has been at the crossroads of much of world history. The pharaohs,
Alexander the Great and Romans all left their mark here. In 641 AD the Muslim army that conquered
Egypt, and would begin the spread of Islam throughout North Africa, marched through Sinai. The
crusades fought here and in the 20th century Sinai would become the battlefield for the conflict
between Israel and Egypt. Yet the peninsula is best known for its association with biblical tradition. The
Exodus, the New Testaments descriptions of the flight into Egypt and the return of the Holy family to
Palestine all have the desert of Sinai as their backdrop. Most famous, of course, is Mt Sinai, the
mountain from which Moses spoke to God and brought down the ten commandments. This is an area
of immense spiritual significance.
At the foot of Mt Sinai stands the Monastery of St Katherine, the worlds oldest continuously
inhabited monastery. Christian monasticism has its origins in Sinai. In the 3rd century, fleeing
persecution from the Roman emperor Diocletian, Sinai was a logical location of retreat for many
Christians who found safety in the remote wilderness, settling around the sites of religious significance
in the South. The remains of small monasteries and chapels, dating back to this period, can still be
seen in this area, some of them are still in use.
But it is not only early Christianity that has left its archaeological footprint in South Sinai. The
pharaohs built a temple at Serabit el Khadim, the area where they mined turquoise. The first roofed
stone structures, the mysterious nawamis buildings, are only found in South Sinai; they are believed to
date back to the copper age (4000 3150 BC). Rock inscriptions using ancient scripts Proto-Sinaitic,
Nabatean, ancient Greek, Hebrew and Arabic can be seen in many places. Linking all of these
incredible archaeological sites are the ancient caravan routes and desert trails that have been used
since prehistoric times. In South Sinai you really are walking in the footpaths of history.
Tying all this natural beauty and history together are the Bedouin people of South Sinai.
Traditionally they belong to 7 tribes, although some tribes from the North are also present at some
places. The Bedouin are mostly descended from people of the Arabian peninsula who arrived in Sinai
in several waves along the centuries. The one exception to this is the Jabaleya tribe who live in the
High Mountain area around St Katherines monastery. The tribe trace their origins back to when
families from around the Black Sea were sent by Emperor Justinian to aid the building and running of
the monastery.
The lifestyle of these Bedouin is in a constant state of flux; traditionally water, herding, and in
the specific case of the Jabaleya, seasonal orchard gardening, dictated their lives. Today it is mostly
tourism. For many of the Bedouin of South Sinai their lives have become almost entirely sedentary.
This is not to say that their traditions have disappeared, just that they have become mixed with
modernity. The best way to experience the Bedouin way of life is to head out into the desert with a
local guide and a camel.
And this is precisely what this guide wants to enable people to do. Sinai is a land of wondrous
variety of nature, history and people. We hope this guide goes someway towards opening your eyes to
the possibilities offered here, and how to go about experiencing them.
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Orientation
IMPORTANT: This is a reference book only. It is intended as an information tool, something that
sparks the imagination of the traveler. This guidebook should be used in collaboration with local
guides.
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Organizing a trek or safari
Sinai, and Egypt in general, is not for the hard-core independent traveler; you cant just
wander alone off to the mountains or the desert, since in most areas it is prohibited. There are
various reasons for this, and your safety is one of them. Maybe you think you can do it alone,
like you are used to at home, but the environment is very different and confusing with extreme
weather conditions. A simple mistake could cost you your life: the Egyptian authorities don't
want to see you hurt, and also don't want bad publicity either. This law also supports local
communities in a direct way in most places you have to be accompanied by a local Bedouin
guide. And it makes sense; since they are the traditional inhabitants, they know the area best.
This also applies to companies; they have to have a local Bedouin guide in the Sinai. You can
organize your program through different operators or independently the options are
explained below, followed by some points on costs, what to expect along the way and what to
bring, when to come, dangers and annoyances, and recommendations.
Big international companies usually do not run treks and safaris off the beaten path they probably
include the Monastery of St. Katherine and Mt. Sinai and possibly a fast 4x4 visit to an oasis or canyon.
If they do Sinai, they do it through smaller local operators, so you might as well go straight to them.
There are smaller operators, based internationally and locally, who run treks and safaris or specialize
in other activities, such as yoga, meditation, rock climbing, desert mountain-biking as well as aspects
of religious, historical or nature tourism. They usually work closely with local Bedouin communities but
provide their own tour leaders, foreign or Egyptian, who are in charge of the operations on the ground.
These operators are very specialized in nature and located in many countries most of them have
websites, so you can easily find someone in your area of interest, who is based either in your own
country or in Egypt.
If you want to use a local operator, your best bet is someone based in the Sinai. Operators based in
Cairo are selling Egypt; the pyramids, pharaonic ruins along the Nile valley and felucca rides. Sinai is
of marginal interest for them if it is included, it is only the few main sites. Operators in Sharm el
Sheikh, although based in Sinai, are mostly into adventure of their own style quad bikes and 4x4s
and organize short superficial desert trips with reheated hotel food, which is exactly what their
customers want. As long as they keep out of protected areas, or stick to the rules if inside one, it is
fine, but this is not for those who want a genuine and quiet desert experience. Other local Sinai
operators, based either in Dahab, Nuweiba, St. Katherine or in the desert, often have a better
understanding of the desert and mountains and tend to be more dedicated and responsible. There are
several Egyptian- or Egyptian/foreigner-run companies, as well as a growing number of Bedouin-run
operations. Many of the smaller operations do not have offices of their own and are located in cheaper
hotels and camps.
There are independent Bedouin guides and it is possible to organize programs straight through
them. They are registered as a Bedouin guide and have a photo ID with these words written in
English. Some have other relevant qualifications as well. Hotels and camps which do not push their
own services can put you in contact with the guides and you can sit down and discuss the details with
them in person. The best places to find a good Bedouin guide who speaks English well, or other
languages, is in Dahab, Nuweiba, the camps on the Nuweiba to Taba coast and in St. Katherine.
In some places you can organize your trek or safari right on the spot in the desert, although English
communication there might be basic. There are a number of cafeterias and camel stations along the
St. Katherine to Dahab-Nuweiba road (Wadi Arada, Nawamis settlement, Ein Khudra pass, Ras
Ghazala) which are easy to reach by taxi or microbus, possibly along a round trip to St. Katherine from
the coast. You can also find guides in Wadi Feiran in one of the gardens close to the Convent (treks to
Gebel Serbal, Wadi Mukattab and Serabit el Khadim) and possibly in the cafeterias in Abu Zenima
(treks or transport to Serabit el Khadim). Wadi Feiran and Abu Zenima are on the main Cairo to St.
Katherine road serviced by public buses and regular microbuses. If you can make your own way to the
settlement of Serabit el Khadim, you can arrange a program there; you can visit the archeological ruins
as well as arrange longer camel safaris.
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In some cases there are tribal laws regarding who you can take as a guide most notable is the High
Mountain Region, where guides are allocated by a rotating system managed by the sheikhs. The
system, called el dor, has been set up by the tribe to provide work to every family. Treks have to be
organized through the sheikhs who allocate the guides and camels and arrange permissions with the
authorities. If you want to use a guide of your choice you still have to pay the one whose turn it is. In
Arada Canyon, the White Canyon and the Colored Canyon you also have to take a guide from the local
system, unless you are taking part in a longer trek and already have a Bedouin guide. To the pharaonic
ruins of Serabit el Khadim and only to the archeological site you have to take a guide from the
village, regardless if you have another Bedouin guide, as is the case with Gebel Serbal, where only
local Qararsha people can work. At the Colored Canyon a small part of the fee goes to the tribal
cooperative which runs the system. There were also plans to set up a guide association at the Ein
Khudra pass cafeteria for hikes to the White Canyon and run it similarly.
Costs
Most operators and many independent guides prefer to offer all-inclusive packages with prices ranging
between 25 to 100 euro per person per day. The price often depends on several factors and/or
minimum group size is required. If you want to organize your trek or safari independently you might
save some money, but it depends greatly on your bargaining skills. Other factors which affect the price
include group size, who is providing the food, extra equipment, camels, car or jeep if needed and the
itinerary. Bedouin guides and cameleers, apart from leading you and carrying your stuff, will provide
cooking equipment and local water, make fire, tea and coffee, cook meals, bring flour and bake bread.
As an example, in case food is bought by you but local water and flour for fresh bread are provided by
them, expect the following prices:
In the desert: guide 100-250 LE a day, each camel extra 80-120 LE a day. Note: if the guide and
camel have to return from a long way the transport or return time are also to be paid for.
In the high mountains: guide from the sheikhs 160-240 LE a day, each camel extra 80-120 LE a
day. Note: Mt. Katherine is double.
To Gebel Serbal: guide 200 LE a day, each camel extra 200 LE a day.
Short ride in pick-up car: 50-100 LE.
Pick-up car: 300-400 LE a day.
Jeep (up to 4 passengers): 400-800 LE a day.
Landcruiser (up to 8 passengers): 800-1200 LE a day.
Basic accommodation in garden: 10-20 LE per person per night.
Fire wood: 40 LE a bag.
Note: These are only indicative prices based on 2009 figures.
On one hand, if you are not into bargaining and logistics and add up everything, you might as well find
that organizing through operators providing all-inclusive packages is worth that little extra. On the other
hand, you might find it more personal to deal straight with the guide who will be with you along the way.
The Bedouin have their own rhythm and treks are usually moderate; 3-4 hours walk in the morning with
a possible tea break, lunch and rest, 2-3 hours walk in the afternoon, camp. In summer starting time is
very early and the lunch break can be as long as 3-4 hours, while in winter the start is later and the
lunch break is shorter. If you want to cover bigger distances than the usual, you have to be very
specific from the beginning. Some guides are excellent cooks but all know and can provide at least the
basics: soups, simple rice and pasta dishes, chicken and vegetables, different types of fresh Bedouin
breads, salads, dips, tuna, cheese, beans, sweets, tea and coffee. If you have special needs or want to
cater for yourself, let it be known beforehand. In some areas it is possible to carry everything yourself,
but camels are often needed. Camels are usually used for transport, but in the desert, according to
arrangements, you can ride them as well. Often the camels take different routes so in the morning you
should have ready a camel pack with belongings you only need in the evening and a day pack with
items for the day. You should carry some warm clothes and have always plenty of water. You can
safely rely on local water if worried, bring water purification tablets and/or a water filter. Make sure
you have bought firewood in town or have a gas cooker to minimize impact on scarce resources. A
lightweight tent (possibly without the cover) or a mosquito net will come handy most of the year, but
you can get away without one (cover yourself with a sheet or find a windy spot). In winter good
sleeping bags are important while in warmer seasons a sheet might be enough. Foam mattresses and
blankets are provided on request. Camps are set up either in Bedouin gardens or in the wilderness. In
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gardens there might be a toilet and simple washing facilities in any case be conscious about
pollution, waste and water usage.
When meeting local people you will be offered tea or coffee, possibly food and, in the gardens,
available fresh fruit. It is genuine Bedouin hospitality: they dont expect anything for it. It is nice to offer
back something though; biscuits, cigarettes, snacks or other small things. If you want to contribute, you
can buy small handicrafts which most families sell. However, staying overnight and services provided
should be paid for either by you or the operator. Baksheesh is part of life and tips are accepted by all
providing services it is not necessary, but appreciated, especially if you were happy with their work.
Useful items which are difficult to get locally, such as pocket knifes, torches, sandals, boots and other
trekking equipment are also a good idea to give.
When to come
If you look at South Sinai as a whole, it is easy to organize treks all year round. When it gets cold in the
high mountains, it is still warmer in the desert when it is too hot in the desert, it is still more pleasant
in the mountains. Probably the best times are spring and autumn in both regions, although any time is
possible; there are small stone huts and caves which can provide shelters in winter and the hot mid-
day siestas are spent in shady places in summer.
Egypt is generally a safe country, and the mountains and desert of South Sinai are especially so.
Violent crimes are unheard of and theft, even in towns, is very rare. Religious tolerance dominates
rather than extremism. Some western embassies are worried about security, and as a result, groups
through bigger agencies or citizens of USA and Israel might have to have a police escort in some
places. It is absolutely unnecessary and we hope officials will realize it works against the local
economy. Most of us, however, will only see police at checkpoints; there are many of these so have
your passport handy when traveling on main roads. The staff are usually friendly, even if sometimes in
simple ways keep in mind, they are just doing their jobs.
Dangerous animals do exist in the Sinai, especially a couple of snake species (see the fauna and flora
section), but they keep away from humans. Along treks the more likely threats are dehydration, sun
stroke and cold. There are dangerous and difficult paths, but the guide should understand what you
want to and can do. The guides are generally safety-conscious and innovative, but a first-aid kit is
usually not available. Have some important basic medication and supplies. You should arrange travel
insurance before your trip check carefully what they offer. When on treks, your passport or a copy of
your passport and visa might have to stay with the operator. Leave also your insurance details and
other relevant information, in case of emergency.
One annoying thing which often happens is not sticking to plans/route. Sometimes it is necessary to
change the trek for various reasons, but there are guides who are simply lazy and want to cut corners.
Always make sure that the route and timing are well understood by both parties before setting off.
Recommendations
When organizing a trek or safari the important things are the experience you get, price and hopefully
to more and more people responsibility. The expressions sustainable, responsible, ethical or eco-
tourism are catchwords of today; there are operators who do understand what it means and take it
seriously, while others use it only to sell their programs and do not have a clue or do not care. In the
absence of a list of responsible operators and any code of practice or monitoring system it is difficult to
make recommendations. If there ever will be a reliable source listing responsible operators we will
publish it in a future edition and on the discoversinai.net website. In the mean time, use common sense
and always look behind the "green" faade remember, greenwashing is a marketing strategy.
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Ecotourism in Egypt
1. Minimize impact
2. Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect
3. Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts
4. Provide direct financial benefits for conservation
5. Provide financial benefits and empowerment for local people
6. Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and
social climate
However one defines it, ecotourism has faced mixed reviews with respect to its impacts upon
host environments and communities. As Honey writes, at its worst, when not practiced with the utmost
care, ecotourism threatens the very ecosystems upon which it depends. At its best, ecotourism offers a
set of principles and practices that have the potential to fundamentally transform the way the tourism
industry operates.
The benefits of ecotourism are intended to benefit local individuals; one of the basic tenets of
ecotourism is to engage local communities so they benefit from conservation, economic development
and education. In theory, ecotourism channels funds from foreign tourists into developing communities,
directly provides jobs for local people, and integrates formerly isolated regions into the global
marketplace. Economists argue that this increases market access and stimulates trickle-down benefits.
Furthermore, ideal ecotourism sites are located in remote regions, so the industry may alleviate
poverty by directly contributing to the income of the rural poor without necessitating urban migration.
These locations are particularly vulnerable, however, and nature tourism ventures can be highly
dangerous to delicate ecosystems and indigenous social structures. Resource exploitation can
damage fragile environments. Mismanagement can displace local communities and disrupt native
animal populations.
Critics of ecotourism generally fall into two schools of thought. The first group accepts the
theoretical underpinnings of ecotourism but argues that revisions must be made to how the concept is
applied in practice. These scholars admit that genuine ecotourism does exist but can be mismanaged
or confused with greenwashing, defined as projects or companies that claim to be involved in
ecotourism but are merely using green language in their marketing in an attempt to ride on the crest of
the ecotourism wave. Their work typically constitutes positivist, empirical analyses of case studies; they
isolate a case study, analyze the application and impact of ecotourism, and construct
recommendations for policy makers. These scholars generally advocate industry standards,
monitoring, and evaluation.
The second group of critics typically takes a poststructuralist stance to argue that the entire
concept of ecotourism is flawed or meaningless; because the origins of ecotourism lie in Western
ideology and values, and its practice is frequently dominated by Western interests, the advocacy of
ecotourism as a universal template arises from Western hegemony. Notions of sustainability,
development, and conservation are all value-charged Western constructs imposed on the Global
South. Therefore, these scholars argue, ecotourism represents neo-colonialism. Its weaknesses must
be addressed through more equitable ways or it should be abandoned as a development strategy.
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Tourism development has significantly altered both the environmental and cultural landscapes
of South Sinai. The situation of the Egyptian tourism development can be argued to be imposing highly
negative environmental impacts, unstable economic sector, serious socio-cultural problems, and highly
fragile to the political situation of the region. Faced with these problems, Cairo began to seek out and
champion alternative forms of tourism development designed to achieve economic and political goals
while balancing environmental concerns and exhibiting sensitivity to local Bedouin communities.
Prompted by international environmental agencies and local biodiversity scientists, the Egyptian
Environmental Affairs Agency (EEAA) established the nations first natural protectorates by passing
Law 102 of 1983 for Nature Protectorates which defined it as any area of land, or coastal or inland
water characterized by flora, fauna, and natural features having cultural, scientific, touristic or aesthetic
value. Within the protectorates, the EEAA aims to minimize human impacts upon nature. Regulations
forbid any actions which will lead to the destruction or deterioration of the natural environment or harm
the biota (terrestrial, marine or fresh water), or which will detract from the aesthetic standards within
protected areas.
The EEAAs national parks system thus served as the beginnings of Egypts ecotourism
industry. By imposing environmental protection measures in touristic areas, natural parks first
negotiated the seemingly contradictory goals of conservation and development within Sinai. As
ecotourism initiatives gained global attention in the 1990s, Egyptian national agencies began to
incorporate ecolanguage and terminology into their own tourism rhetoric. The EEAA officially
launched its National Ecotourism Strategy in 1998 to establish Egypt as a world class ecotourism
destination (and) ensure the conservation of Egypts natural heritage as the cornerstone of the
ecotourism industry.
In the past decade, international organizationsnamely USAID and the EUhave become
involved with tourism in the protectorates, expanding and emphasizing Egypts ecotourism industry
through targeted funding schemes. USAID funding promoted environmentally sustainable tourism
along the Red Sea from 1999-2005. In Sinai, European funding has buttressed the natural
protectorates since shortly after their inception, even giving direct grants towards the establishment of
new parks. In 2005, the EU launched the South Sinai Regional Development Programme (SSRDP) to
oversee infrastructure upgrades and administer grants to locally-oriented development projects. The
SSDRP states its overall purpose as the development of local economy and activities, and the
preservation and support of the social, cultural, and natural resources of South Sinai.
The Tourism Development Authority (TDA), part of the Ministry of Tourism, represents another
key figure in the tourism development and ecotourism spheres, primarily focusing on economic
imperatives. The TDA began to promote ecotourism through its Red Sea Sustainable Tourism
Initiative, launched in partnership with USAID in the early 2000s. Through this project, the TDA
developed guidelines for best practices in terms of zoning, building design, ecotourism management
and organized a conference, training workshops to educate hotel staff from the Marriott, Sheraton,
Hilton, and Mvenpick resorts about environmental management.
Note: While several big governmental and non-governmental organizations are involved in shaping the
tourism industry in Egypt and massive amounts of funds are spent on sustainable development, a
bottom-up approach might be more effective in many ways and should not be overlooked. There are a
handful of local small and medium businesses and organizations which take the challenges seriously
and are involved in environmental protection and/or economic and social development on a local level.
They might not be able to influence policy makers and the industry at higher levels, but can influence
local communities through good examples, implement small-scale development initiatives and spread
economic benefits within the community.
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YOUR GUIDLENES FOR
RESPONSIBLE TREKKING
1. Look after water
Do not pollute water sources with soap, food scraps
or anything else
Do not camp within a 100 m of water sources wildlife
needs to drink too and will be disturbed by your presence
Do not go to the toilet within a 100 m of water sources
YOUR HELP
CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE
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PART II. Sights in South Sinai
The section on the sights is divided into areas based on a mountains-to-sea approach:
Spelling of names of places and sights is based on the spelling of the only locally available
map to South Sinai for easier location. Where we feel it is necessary other spellings are added
in brackets.
The capital of the Governorate of South Sinai is El Tur (1), although the biggest
and most developed city is Sharm el Sheikh (2). Dahab (3), another popular
destination, is smaller and more laid back, attracting mostly the independent
traveler. In Nuweiba (4), the gateway to Jordan, and further north along the road
until Taba (5), there are many quiet and laid-back camps offering simple huts right
on the beach. The road beyond Taba leads to the only border crossing to Israel. In
the center of the mountainous interior is the town of St. Katherine (6), famous for
Mt. Sinai and the Monastery of St. Katherine. Wadi Feiran (7) and Serabit el
Khadim (8) are smaller settlements with important historical and archeological
sites. The coastal town of Abu Zenima (9) is a small place with a few shops and
cafeterias from where transport can be organized to Serabit el Khadim. Ras Sudr
(10), further to the north, is a sea-side destination popular with people from Cairo.
To Suez and Cairo the road connects via a tunnel (11) under the Suez canal, and
from here there is also a road going to North Sinai, and another, the ancient
caravan route of pilgrims from Cairo to Mecca, cuttingacross the peninsula via the
interior at Nakhla (12) and connecting to the Gulf of Aqaba.
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Around St. Katherine: the High Mountain Region
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Wadi el Dier The Monastery of St. Katherine
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Gebel Musa (Mt. Sinai)
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Wadi el Arbain
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Gebel Katharina
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Abu Giffa Wadi Tubug
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Wadi Quweiz El Freish Wadi Tilah (Wadi Itlah)
The Chapel of St. John Klimakos was built in 1979 to commemorate his devotional
work in the 6th century AD. The saint is said to have spent forty years in solitude in a
cave above the existing chapel. During this time, Klimakos was elected Abbot of
Sinai and asked to write a spiritual guide. He composed The Ladder of Divine Ascent
which likens spiritual life to the ladder seen by the Patriarch Jacob extending from
earth to heaven (Genesis 28:12-17). According to the book the ladder consists of 30
rungs, each step corresponding to a spiritual virtue. Through silence and solitude
hermits and monks sought to climb the divine ladder. The crowning virtue is love.
(Reference: National Parks of Egypt, Wadi Talla and Wadi Itlah)
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Wadi Tilah (Wadi Talla) Sid Daud
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Wadi Shagg Wadi Mathar
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Wadi Zuweitin (Wadi Zawatin)
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Gebel Abbas Pasha
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Wadi Gibal
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Bab el Dunya Gebel Bab Ein Nagila
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Wadi Talla Kibira Galt el Azraq
The name Galt el Azraq, despite azraq meaning blue in Arabic, actually means Black
Pool in the Bedouin dialect. Aswad, black in Arabic, is not used, possibly for negative
connotations associated with it. For blue some Bedouin use ahadar, which is also
green. Others would describe it as suemi or bahari, meaning like the sky or the sea.
Agabash means a group of deep colors. Also unique to their dialect is the way some
strong colors are emphasized; the name of the color is followed by a variation of the
same word. For example something very black would be azraq zaraq, very white
abiad baiad or very yellow asfar safar.
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Wadi Abu Tuweita
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Wadi Tinya Wadi Sagar Gebel Naga
The Bedouin in the past protected nature by imposing a period, called helf, when
grazing was not allowed. They might have placed a physical barrier such as a tree
trunk at passes, like at Abu Jeefa, to symbolize the fact that it was forbidden to move
up to higher ground. Around April or May, at the time of the setting of the apricot, the
Bedouin sent scouts to the mountains to see if spring had arrived. If the scout returned,
not saying a word but with green leaves around his head, people knew the restriction
was over and moved up together with their animals. For the first month camels would
be allowed to graze followed by sheep and goats.
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Wadi Shagg Tinya Kharazet el Shagg
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Wadi Ginab Sheikh Ahmad Wadi Madman (Wadi Madaman)
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Wadi Raha Naqb el Hawa Sheikh Awad
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Wadi Gharba Sida Nugra Gebel Banat
Bedouin women traditionally tended to the herds of goats and sheep and collected
firewood. Women would also use traditional embroidery skills to produce a variety of
functional everyday items, such as sugar bags. In 1996 a project was created by
elders of the Bedouin community to use these embroidery skills to create handicraft
products for sale. They use authentic motifs to decorate the bags and have provided
an income to over 400 Bedouin women from 4 different tribes. Although the Fansina
project is the most famous of the handicraft centres, in most places you can buy small
items directly from the women of the families you might visit.
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Farsh Faria (Wadi Freah) Bustan el Birka Wadi Abu Zaituna
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Wadi Isbaiya Wadi Sdud
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South of St. Katherine: towards Sharm el Sheikh and El Tur
Main places: 1. Town of St. Katherine; 2. Blue Desert; 3. Ein Kid; 4. Gebel Thabt Gebel Sabbah; 5. Nabq;
6. Sharm el Sheikh; 7. Gebel Umm Shaumar; 8. Wadi Isla; 9. El Tur city
West and south-west from St. Katherine is the homeland of the Ulad Said tribe, while to the
south it is Muzeina territory. Not many operators offer treks in this region, and your best choice
is to find one in the town of St. Katherine. Alternatively you can try to find an independent
guide in town as the area is not controlled by any single tribe, clan or sheikh. This is one of the
least visited, most remote and untouched wilderness in South Sinai, with rugged peaks and
long winding rocky wadis. There are some smaller sandy-gravely plains, a few water sources
and one oasis, but the majority of the area is made of granite and volcanic ranges, a complex
system of long wadis and high passes. The major attractions are far apart and whichever way
you go, it will take you a day or two between major sights. Still, there are some unique places;
first, it offers a rare view on contemporary Bedouin life, as people here are by and large not in
contact with tourists; then there are many archeological sites from Nabatean and Byzantine
times including the monasteries of Rumhan and Antush; the oasis of Ein Kid is still very much
like what an oasis used to be; from the peaks of Umm Shaumar, Thabt or Sabbah you will
have a view on to the Gulf of Aqaba comparable only by Gebel Serbal at Wadi Feiran in the
north-west; and the traditional pilgrim and merchant route through Wadi Isla, with a running
creek at a narrow part, offers a dramatic ending as it opens up to the sandy plains at el Tur
city. Going south, it is difficult to finish the trek exactly at Sharm el Sheikh city; the best option
is to end the trek in Nabq protectorate, located just north of Sharm el Sheikh. From here you
can actually walk in to the northern suburbs of the city. However, to get to Nabq from the
interior means going through very long wadis towards the end which ever way you choose
so a prearranged or spontaneous 4x4 or pick-up transfer is advised unless you are very
serious about doing it all on foot.
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Blue Valley (Blue Desert)
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Seil Rotok Wadi Rahaba Wadi Nasb
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Ein Kid
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Ein Umm Saida Gebel Thabt Gebel Sabbah
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Nabq Protectorate
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Wadi Rumhan Dir Rumhan Dir Antush
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Gebel Umm Shaumar
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Seil Muajed Wadi Isla
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East of St. Katherine: towards Nuweiba and Dahab
Main places: 1. Town of St. Katherine; 2. Gebel Guna; 3. Zigzag Canyon; 4. Arada Canyon; 5. Gebel Matamir
Nawamis; 6. Gebel Birqa Haduda sand dune; 7. Ein Khudra White Canyon Closed Canyon;
8. Gebel Mileihis; 9. Nuweiba; 10. Ras Abu Gallum; 11. Dahab.
The area east of St. Katherine is a very diverse region, with rocky mountain wadis, sandy
desert plains, sand dunes, sandstone rock formations and secluded oases. The area is home
to the Muzeina Bedouin, the biggest South Sinai tribe. Here there is no tribal system and you
can choose your operator, guide and camels freely. The exceptions are Arada Canyon and the
White Canyon where taking a guide is required, unless your trek is part of a longer one and
you already have a Bedouin guide. Several places are quite popular and many companies and
individuals offer treks, but to have a good experience make sure you are going with a
Bedouin-run operator or one that works closely with them. Along the main St. Katherine to
Nuweiba/Dahab road there are cafeterias and camel stations from where you can get a guide
and camels straight from the community. Coming from St. Katherine, the first is at Wadi Arada,
then there is a new camel station at the Nawamis settlement, a bit further down is Cafeteria
Joma, and, after the UN outpost at Ras Ghazala, is Sheikh Hemeid and a few independent
cafeterias. It is possible to walk from St. Katherine all the way to the sea, although the first and
last stretches of the trek might not be as spectacular as some other places. The main routes
are going either north or south of the asphalt road and if you want to see all the best places
you will have to criss-cross it a number of times. Wadi Zagra and Wadi Nasb would take you
straight to Dahab but the more interesting locations are a bit further away. An interesting route
would be to start at Faranja or Shegera some 20-30 kms after St. Katherine, visiting the Guna
plateau and the canyons at its base, then the ancient Nawamis site and the magical fine sand
desert dotted with sandstone formations and dunes further east. You could finish at the hidden
oasis of Ein Khudra, or go on from here to the Ras Abu Gallum protectorate located just north
of Dahab on the coast; or, you could carry on to the territories of the Tarabin tribe to the north
and reach the coast around Nuweiba and Taba via another spectacular way.
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Gebel Guna
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Zigzag Canyon
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Naqb Arada (Wadi Arada)
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Arada Canyon
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Bier Safra
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Nawamis Site
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Gebel Matamir
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Gebel Barqa Gebel Maharum
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Haduda Sand Dune
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Wadi Rum
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Ein Khudra
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White Canyon
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Wadi Khudra Closed Canyon Mushroom Rock
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Gebel Mileihis Wadi Disco
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Ras Ghazala
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Wadi Risasa Bier Uqda Ras Abu Gallum
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North-East of St. Katherine: towards the Nuweiba-Taba Coast
Main places: 1. Ein Umm Ahmad; 2. Gebel Berqa; 3. Rainbow Canyon; 4. Colored Canyon; 5. Washwashi
Canyon; 6. Nuweiba; 7. Coastal road to Taba; 8. St. Katherine-Dahab junction.
The area, home mostly to the Tarabin tribe, is famous for its canyons which are all located
relatively close to main asphalt roads. The Colored Canyon is visited by bigger numbers on
day trips on 4x4s, but there are other canyons in the very same area, connected by walking
trails, where not many venture. If you only visit the Colored Canyon you have to take a guide
from Ein Furtaga. It is easy to organize a longer trek of a few days to explore the area; the
best choice would be in Nuweiba or from the camps north of it. The more remote Tarabin
areas such as the oasis of Ein Umm Ahmad, the sand dunes at El Breqa and the towering
dome of Gebel Berqa are connected to other beautiful regions. The main wadi, Wadi Zalaqa,
is part of the sandy belt below the Tih Plateau jutting in from the north, and is on the main 4x4
route between the east and west coast. Camel and walking safaris might include places along
this stretch, but the most beautiful country is in the middle, connecting the Ein Khudra area or
the Guna plateau in the south and the Tarabin canyons in the north. This area is mostly
accessible only on foot or camel. If you are coming either from St. Katherine and the
mountainous interior or from the camel stations in the south, you can reach the relaxed
beaches on the Nuweiba to Taba road along an interesting and diverse route. Alternatively,
you can start from the Nuweiba beaches and head down south and finish at Ras Abu Galum,
Dahab or further.
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Ein Umm Ahmad
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Gebel Barqa (Gebel Berqa)
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Rainbow Canyon
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Colored Canyon Closed Canyon
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Moyat el Milha Washwashi Canyon Ras Shaitan
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North-West of St. Katherine: towards Abu Zenima and Ras Sudr
Main places: 1. Town of St. Katherine; 2. Gebel Serbal; 3. Wadi Feiran; 4. Wadi Mukattab Wadi Magara;
5. Gebel Fuga; 6. Serabit el Khadim; 7. Abu Zenima; 8. Ras Sudr.
There are many tribes in the area; in Wadi Feiran itself actually all the South Sinai tribes are
represented. Gebel Serbal is Qararsha territory and you are required to take a guide from
them it is rather expensive and non-negotiable since tourism here is a marginal activity, but
still definitely worth doing. Wadi Mukattab, the turquoise mines at Wadi Magara and Sheikh
Suliman are also on Qararsha territories, while the area further north around Serabit el Khadim
is mostly Aligat. There are other smaller tribes and smaller communities of bigger tribes living
in the area as well. To visit the pharaonic site at Serabit el Khadim you are required to take a
Bedouin guide from the settlement longer treks and safaris however can be organized
through any operator or guide. Serabit el Khadim can be reached by pick-up cars from Abu
Zenima (mix of asphalt and sandy desert road) and there are two camps, one in the settlement
run by the sons of Sheikh Selim Barakat, the other is at a secluded place in Umm Ajraaf, run
by Rabiya Barakat. Descending from St. Katherine there are two major ways towards the
coast. One of them is used mostly by 4x4s in the wide sandy belt below the Tih plateau,
visiting Gebel Fuga and Serabid el Khadim, and possibly including Wadi Feiran and Wadi
Mukattab. The other route, better suited for camels or walking, would start at the high
mountains at Sheikh Awad, reaching first Gebel Serbal and Wadi Feiran. To continue on to
Wadi Mukattab first you might have to take a car, then you can walk to Serabit el Khadim. You
can get to Serabit el Khadim other ways, but either case it will be a long walk. From Serabit el
Khadim you could get to Abu Zenima or Ras Sudr.
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Wadi Feiran
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Gebel Serbal
Gebel Serbal, Egypts fifth-highest mountain, is one of several mountains that some
religious scholars have contested to be the true Mt Sinai. Its imposing, multiple peaks
that dominate the skyline certainly present a compelling case. Pilgrims traveling in the
19th century also noted how the local Bedouin revered this mountain and took their
shoes off to pray on the summit. On the mountain there can be seen the remains of
many anchorite dwellings (a type of religious hermit) testimony to the religious
significance given by early Christians, not only to the mountain but to the nearby
Wadi Feiran also. There are ancient, probably Nabatean, inscriptions in many places.
(Reference: Joseph Hobbs, 1995)
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Wadi Mukattab Wadi Magara
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Gebel Fuga The Forest of Pillars
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Serabit el Khadim
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Personal thanks
Farhan Mohamed Zidan Salah Abu Rizk Saadallah Hussein Farhan Hussein
(Jabaleya) (Jabaleya) (Jabaleya) Abu Hder
(Jabaleya)
Salem Abu Hatwa Selim Rabaya Abdullah Suliman Jebeli Joma Jebeli
(Muzeina) (Muzeina) Abu Mohamed (Jabaleya)
(Muzeina)
Above are the guides who showed me the Sinai on actual treks and provided information on which the sights section is
largely based. It is impossible to name all the people who I walked with at other times or who took me as their guest,
but the time spent together and their hospitality is well remembered. Many thanks and my very best wishes to the
whole Jabaleya family who accepted me as one of theirs as well as to all the kind people Bedouin, Egyptian and
foreigner who helped me along my Sinai journey a journey which is still not over inshaallah.
Zoltan Matrahazi
2009, St. Katherine, South Sinai Egypt
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References
National Parks of Egypt Protectorates Development Programmes, Mt. Sinai, A Walking Trail Guide
National Parks of Egypt Protectorates Development Programmes, Wadi Talla and Wadi Itlah, A Walking Trail
Guide
National Parks of Egypt Protectorates Development Programmes, Wadi Arbaein & Wadi Shrayj, A Walking
Trail Guide
National Parks of Egypt Protectorates Development Programmes, Jebel Abbas Pasha, A Walking Trail Guide
Joseph J. Hobbs, Mount Sinai, 1995 AUC Press, Cairo & University of Texas Press
Samy Zalat Francis Gilbert, A walk in Sinai: St Katherine to Al Galt Al Azraq, 1998, El Harameen Press,
Cairo. Available from www.nottingham.ac.uk/~plzfg
UNDP Global Environment Facility
R. A. Nicholson, A Literary History of the Arabs, Cambridge 1930
R. H. Kennett, Ancient Hebrew social life and custom as indicated in law narrative and metaphore, The
Schweich lectures of the British Academy, 1931 London, Oxford University Press 1933
SEAM South Sinai Environment and Development profile
http://st-katherine.net/en/
http://en.wikipedia.org
http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/FEIRAN.htm
http://www.awayaway-sinai.net/main/sinai-sub/forest_of_pillars.htm
http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/serabit.htm
http://www.sharm-club.com/sinai.htm
http://www.america.gov/st/peacesec-english/2007/September/20070919140636idybeekcm0.1891291.html
http://www.allsinai.info/sites/sites/abu%20galum.htm
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PART III. Fauna and flora of South Sinai
Francis Gilbert & Samy Zalat
South Sinai is one of three richest places in Egypt for biodiversity, the others being the
Mediterranean coast and Gebel Elba in the extreme south west. The reason is simple: water.
Although visitors may be forgiven for their disbelief, these places have by far the highest and
the most reliable precipitation, in the form of rain, snow (in South Sinai) or fog (in Gebel Elba).
This section provides a miscellany of the common kinds of animals and plants that live in
South Sinai, together with some of the more interesting rarer types. Some have a very
restricted distribution and are priority species for conservation. The species are grouped
taxonomically, and according to the size, colour, defence or status as a resident or migrant.
There are brief notes to introduce each group.
The brief account of each species starts with the common and the scientific names, the South
Sinai Bedouin (rather than general Arabic) name, and our best understanding of its
conservation status (following IUCN categories). Where possible there is a photograph with
the notes of interest about the species. A few of the photographs are not of a specimen in
South Sinai, but the vast majority are.
Information specific to South Sinai about these animals is hard to find since it is scattered in
many obscure journals and books. It is easier to look at Egypt as a whole. The following
websites and books will help expand on the information presented here, and contain
bibliographies to enable you to go further:
Baha El Din SM (2005) A guide to the reptiles and amphibians of Egypt. AUC Press, Cairo.
Basuony M, Gilbert F & Zalat S (2010) Mammals of Egypt: Red Data Listing & Conservation. EEAA, Cairo
Boulos L (1999-2005) Flora of Egypt. 4 vols. Al Hadara Publishing, Cairo.
Brunn B & Baha El Din SM (1990) Common birds of Egypt. AUC Press, Cairo.
Gilbert F & Zalat S (2008) Butterflies of Egypt. EEAA, Cairo. available from
http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~plzfg/pdf files/2008 Butterflies.pdf
Goodman SM, Meininger PL, Baha El Din SM, Hobbs JJ & Mulli WC (1989) The birds of Egypt. Oxford
University Press, Oxford, UK.
Hoath R (2005) Field guide to the mammals of Egypt. AUC Press, Cairo
Hoath R & Baha El Din M (2000) Wild Sinai: the wildlife of the Saint Katherine Protectorate. Published by
the St Katherine Protectorate.
Hobbs J (1995) Mount Sinai. University of Texas Press, Austin, TX USA & AUC Press, Cairo
Rusmore-Villaume ML (2008) Seashells of the Egyptian Red Sea: an illustrated handbook. AUC Press,
Cairo.
Zalat S & Gilbert F (1998) A walk in Sinai: St Katherine to Al Galt Al Azraq. available at
http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~plzfg/EBBSoc/ejnh.html
Zalat S & Gilbert F (2008) Gardens of a sacred landscape: Bedouin heritage and natural history in the high
mountains of Sinai. AUC Press, Cairo.
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1. Large mammals
Unlike sub-Saharan Africa, Egypt is not full of large mammals, but it does have some. In
the distant past, several million years ago, there was an extensive and complex fauna of
large mammals whose fossils have been much studied from the Faiyum. The gradual
drying of North Africa over the last 10,000 years has seen off most species, and some of
the survivors were driven to extinction by human hunters of prehistory and history, leaving
just a remnant still extant. Not much is known of the prehistoric fauna of Sinai. Certainly
this did not contain camels, since they are absent completely from the Pharaonic period
in Egypt. Camels seem to have been introduced by humans only about 2000 years ago.
Probably extinct in mainland Egypt for a long time, the subspecies called the
Arabian Leopard, may still hang on in Sinai. There are a few in the Negev
desert, but they have disappeared from the Hejaz mountains of Saudi Arabia
(although they still occur further south). The difficult mountain terrain and their
exceptionally secretive and wary nature makes it very difficult to establish the
existence of a breeding population. The last positive record in Sinai was in
1996, and the last definite specimen in 1955. However, they live on in Bedouin stories. In the high passes you
can still see leopard traps, long tunnels made from stones with a trapdoor triggered by an attachment to a meat
bait. It is still possible that one of the St Katherine Protectorates camera traps may one day record one of these
magnificent creatures. (photo: wikimedia)
Hyaena are rare but widespread in Egypt and Sinai, part of a large distribution
stretching from Pakistan to southern Africa. They are general scavengers and
predators, eating a wide variety of different foods including garbage - one of
the best places to see them is at night at rubbish dumps. The Bedouin believe
they eat one another from stupidity, and keep themselves hidden away for
shame; but they also believe that eating hyaena confers great strength and
health. Camera traps have photographed hyaena several times, and clearly there is a reasonable population of
these interesting creatures in South Sinai. (photo: St Katherine Protectorate camera trap 2002)
There are now only two species of gazelle resident in Egypt, both vulnerable
to extinction; only the Dorcas Gazelle occurs in Sinai. It lives on sandy plains
and wadis in the lowlands, with its stronghold on the El Qaa plain. It enters
into the wadis to feed, and crosses over between east and west Sinai via the
lower southern wadi systems. In mainland Egypt its main predator used to be
the Cheetah, but since its disappearance the main threat is from illegal sport
hunting, often on a highly organised scale. Luckily this hardly happens in Sinai, but populations are low and
vulnerable. The Dorcas Gazelle lives in pairs or small groups, and feeds on many different kinds of plants. It
requires access to water. (photo: St Katherine Protectorate camera trap 2002)
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2. Medium-sized mammals
There are a number of rather rare medium-sized mammals in Sinai, but few common ones.
By far the most likely to be seen are foxes in the early morning or late evening.
All three Egyptian species of fox occur in South Sinai, and their
shrieks punctuate the stillness of the evenings - often sounding like
children crying out in pain. The native common species is the Sand
Fox (abu risha), smaller than the Red Fox (abu al hussain), with
proportionately larger ears, and softer paler fur. The Red Fox has
come in with human settlement, and is now the commonest
species around St Katherine and the coastal towns, where it feeds
on chickens and stray cats. The beautiful Blanfords Fox is small
with very large ears and a huge long bushy tail rather like a cats: it
is very rare, and occurs only in eastern Sinai, right at the western
edge of its world distribution (which runs all the way to Afghanistan). (photo: Jen Johnson June 2005 Wadi
Itlah)
Usually called a rabbit in Egypt, hares are very common all over
Egypt, including Sinai. They rely on remaining hidden in a hole or
under a plant until the last minute, and so normally the only view of
them is an animal rushing away at top speed from under ones
feet. They feed on plants such as Zygophyllum at night, and if
necessary can survive just on the water taken in with their food.
They breed more in the lowlands because litter sizes reduce with
altitude, and hence they are not so common in the mountains.
Although hares from South Africa to Egypt are all called the same
species, the Cape Hare Lepus capensis, probably the situation is
in reality more complex and several species are involved: Egypts hares probably belong to a North African
version as yet unnamed. (photo: wikimedia)
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3. Small mammals
Like mammals in general, the majority of Egypts 94 species of terrestrial mammal are bats
and rodents, i.e. small. As with many animal and plant groups, the highest diversity occurs
in South Sinai, along the north coast from Libya to the Delta, and in Gebel Elba in the far
southeast. All of Egypts five endemic mammal species are small (two gerbils, two shrews
and the Egyptian Weasel), but none is confined to Sinai.
Spiny mice are large golden-coloured mice with a set of extra thick stiff hairs
(spines) on the front part of their backs. There are two species in Sinai, the
Golden Spiny Mouse (A.russatus) and the Sinai Spiny Mouse (A.dimidiatus):
a third, the Cairo Spiny Mouse (A.cahirinus), occurs throughout mainland
Egypt. They are associated with the Bedouin walled gardens, typically
making their nests amongst the stones of the walls. The Golden Spiny
Mouse has a restricted distribution in the southern Middle East, whereas the
Sinai Spiny Mouse, despite its name, ranges from Sinai to Pakistan. Normally both are nocturnal, but where
they occur together, as in the South Sinai mountains, the Golden Spiny Mouse becomes diurnal. Their spines
are part of a clever defence mechanism against their predators: the spines repel many would-be predators, but
if they are grasped, a large patch of skin comes away completely (as does the tail skin) and the mouse escapes
- it is the mouse equivalent of a lizard breaking off its own tail. Because of this mechanism, Acomys blood clots
incredibly quickly so they do not lose too much after their escape. (photo: Mike James 2001 Wadi Arbaein)
This beautiful animal is called abu kohla by the Bedouin because of the
diagnostic dark rings around its eyes, extending back to the ears like a pair
of spectacles: kohl is the dark eye-shadow makeup used by Middle Eastern
women since the Pharoahs. It has a long tail with a dark bushy tip, large
ears and long complex whiskers. Its distribution is small, from Libya to the
Middle East, and hence Sinai populations are significant on the world scale.
It occurs mainly away from the Bedouin gardens on the rocky sides of the
wadis, where it feeds at night on plant material and insects. The Sinai Dormouse is always much rarer in the
wadis than the Spiny Mice, and there is not a great deal known about its biology. (photo: NCS (Abdallah Nagy))
A small black-brown bat with relatively short wide ears joined at the forehead, with
the tragus in the ear hairy, triangular and more than half as long as the ear. This is
one of rarest of all Palaearctic bats, with the smallest known distribution of any
Palaearctic bat. It was originally discovered in 1822 or 1826 by Rppell in Sinai. His
two specimens were matched only by a handful from Israel until 2005, when Dr
Christian Dietz caught the species again after 183 years. Unlike most other bats,
barbastelles specialize almost exclusively on moths, especially moths that listen in to
bat echolocation calls. Moth populations are therefore critical to the survival of the
Sinai Barbastelle, making the installing of streetlights along the highway to St
Katherine of particular concern. (photo: Christian Dietz 2005 St Katherine)
These two lovely desert bats with their characteristic over-sized ears are
quite common in Sinai, foraging in Bedouin gardens and around open water
sources such as the irrigation tanks. They are highly manoeuverable in flight,
flying slowly and carefully around trees and vegetation as they glean mainly
moths from the leaves. The huge ears receive even the smallest echoes,
enabling them to forage in this way. Otonycteris produces a honeybee-like
buzz in flight. (photo: Petr Benda Sept 2005 Wadi Feiran)
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4.a Resident birds
About 50 species of bird are resident in South Sinai, a reasonable number given the
paucity of its resources and its arid barren nature. For true birders there are rather few
specialities apart from Tristrams Grackle and the Sinai Rosefinch.
A small black bird with a white rump, under-tail coverts and outer tail
feathers, together with a white crown in adults. This bird is one of the
commonest and friendliest of the breeding birds of Sinai. The Bedouin
call them birds of happiness, and welcome them around their houses.
Pairs stay together for life, and inhabit one territory continuously until one
dies or disappears. In spring and summer, males produce their lovely
liquid song (rather like a blackbird or a robin song from northern Europe)
from singing posts around the pairs territory. They spend much of the
day looking for insects on plants, the ground or in camel dung. At night each bird sleeps in a permanent
individual rock crevice, often far away from that of its mate. Like other wheatears, adults collect stones and
place them around their nests, a peculiar behaviour thought in other species to play a role in females selecting
a mate on the basis of their performance. However, unlike other wheatear species, in Sinai it is the female who
collects about 150 large flat stones, with which she creates a tessellated pavement approach to the nest. The
Bedouin say it is to warn the birds of the approach of a snake by the rattle of the stones as the snake moves.
Juveniles less than a year old lack the white crown and remain in their parents territory, but are driven off
before the next breeding season. (photo: Mike James 2001 St Katherine)
A medium-sized black bird with orange patches in the outer part of the
wings. Technically this species is actually a starling, the most northerly
representative of the genus Onychognathus, which has a number of
species in sub-Saharan Africa. It is restricted in its distribution to the area
between Israel, Jordan, south through Sinai and western Saudi Arabia to
Yemen. In Sinai individuals move around in small groups of 2-5 birds,
producing a loud and characteristic whistle, especially in the early
morning. They are omnivores on fruit and insects, and are said to groom
ibex and domestic livestock for parasites. They can fly several kilometres from roosting and breeding sites in
search of food, thereby effecting long-distance dispersal of plant seeds. Adults nest in deep holes and crevices
in cliffs, and like the pigeon have adapted well to living with humans; as a result, their range is gradually
expanding. (photo: Fred Manata June 2005 St Katherine)
A tiny but noisy warbler with a habit of cocking its long tail as it moves
over the rocks. It is insectivorous, but little seems to be known about its
biology apart from their predilection for arid lands. The Bedouin name
means tell-tale tit because they are always chattering about what is
happening in the wadis, which sometimes is supposed to be secret. The
Bedouin also say these birds warn other animals about people and
snakes by giving out a special kind of alarm call. (photo: Tim Hurst June
2005 St Katherine)
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4.b Resident birds
In the past there were several species of raptors, including the Lammergeier, but virtually
all of these have disappeared either because of hunting, or because of climate change.
Indeed, in the 1930s one experienced hunter stated that practically every other bird in
Sinai is a falcon, hawk or eagle, a very different situation from that of today. Occasional
records suggest that breeding of raptors still occurs, such as the adult and juvenile
Verreauxs Eagles seen in June 2005.
A finch with a very thick bill, with the males suffused with a rosy
red colour over head and front half of the body. They are more
usually nowadays called the Pale Rosefinch because they are far
from being restricted to Sinai - indeed, their Sinai distribution is a
marginal outpost of a much wider distribution right across to China.
They are common the South Sinai, feeding especially on seeds in
fresh camel dung: one of the most reliable places to see them is
on the paths to Mt Sinai in the early morning, after the camels
have finished transporting visitors. They also feed on fruit and are
fond of grapes and figs. They disappear from the high mountains
in winter because they form winter flocks and move down in altitude. (photo: Mike James 2001 Safsafa)
The Chukar and the Sand Partridge are both commonly seen
running along the ground in small family groups in the early
morning or late afternoon. One of the group acts as a sentinel,
standing on a high point and keeping watch while the others feed.
Chukars in Sinai are an isolated population at the extreme west
and south of their natural distribution. The Bedouin say that the
Sand Partridges of each wadi are a different colour which, if true,
would be extremely interesting scientifically. (photo: Tim Hurst
June 2005 Wadi Arbaein)
The Desert Lark is the kind of bird that gets ornithology a bad
name: a little brown bird that is very difficult to identify. It is a
medium-sized bird with a noticeably thick yellow-based bill, and a
nondescript sand colour that blends in with the rocks, providing a
very effective camouflage. They tend to occur as singles or in
pairs, and are in fact very common. (photo: Jen Johnson June
2005 Wadi Arbaein)
A beautiful ash-grey all over except the dark tail and shoulder
patch. It is a friendly species, showing little fear of humans. It often
fans its wings and tail, and then closes them again, especially
when landing or changing perch. Insects are the main food,
searching for them in the gardens and orchards. It is less common
in the high mountains of the Ring Dyke than elsewhere. (photo:
Kathy Meakin Aug 2005 Wadi Gharaba)
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5. Summer birds
Birds that are summer visitors to the high mountains take advantage of the abundance of
plants and insects here, allegedly the wettest place in Egypt. It is also the coldest, one
reason to abandon the area in winter.
This is a medium- to large-sized eagle. From below, adults have a white body, dark wings with the leading edge
white, and a dark tail with a darker broad terminal band; from above, adults also have whitish markings on their
back, behind the head. Juveniles are reddish underneath, and harder to identify. There have been 2-3
individuals flying around the town of St Katherine and Wadi Arbaein during the late summer and early autumn,
giving hope that breeding might have occurred.
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6. Migrant birds
Sinai is part of the major eastern flyway for migrating birds on their way from the
Palaearctic to Africa for the winter, and back again in spring, and therefore millions of
birds pass over it. The spring migration has markedly fewer birds than in autumn.
Warblers
Bedouin name: jazjuz
Adults of this medium-sized falcon are unique in being a uniform bluish-grey, including the trousers, and a
uniform grey under the wings. A scattered distribution around the Red Sea, eastern Libya and the Persian Gulf
makes this a rare species. Like the related Eleonoras Falcon, Sooty Falcons time their breeding in late summer
to take advantage of migrating birds, their main prey. They breed on cliffs and mountains in the desert, and
especially on coral islands in the Red Sea. They are not uncommon in the wadis of South Sinai.
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7. Lizards on rocks
Being cold-blooded, lizards use the sun to warm up so that they are able to move
quickly and escape their predators, mainly birds. Therefore they spend lots of time
basking on the top of rocks and walls, making them easy to see with decent binoculars.
Like the Starred Agama, this is a fairly large lizard with a heart-
shaped head and strongly built body; the legs are long and
slender, and the ears very large and obvious. In the breeding
season the male has a startlingly turquoise-blue colour of variable
extent over the head and front parts of the body, or sometimes
even more; the extent of the blue is a signal of dominance and
territory ownership, and fades rapidly in individuals that lose
confrontations with other males. When breeding the female has a
blue head and some brick-red bands on the back. The male is
often encountered perched on the top of a rock, keeping watch for intruders into his territory; there is about one
territory every half-a-kilometer of wadi. It ranges from Libya to Saudi Arabia. (photo: Mike James 2001 St
Katherine)
This fairly large lizard has the typical broad heart-shaped head and
strongly built body of the agamids. It is identified by its spiny tail,
the band of lumpy enlarged keeled scales along the sides of the
back, the ca. five transverse yellow bands on the back, and the
conspicuously banded yellow and black tail. With only a small
distribution in Sinai and adjacent mountains areas of Israel, Jordan
and NW Saudi Arabia, it is frequently seen in the mountains
sunning on rocks, or waiting to attack passing large insects such
as dragonflies. (photo: unknown)
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8. Lizards on sand
Sand is a major habitat for lizards; they are even found in the remotest depths of the
Western Desert, far from any vegetation or water. The ecosystem there is based on food
input in the form of dying migrant birds, which are then fed upon by a little foodweb of
insects, lizards and some mammals.
Large, strongly built lizards with short thick tails. There are two
species in South Sinai: the Egyptian (U.aegyptia), up to 70 cms
long, with spiny tubercles on the flanks of the rear part of the body;
and the beautifully coloured Ornate (U.ornata), up to 40 cms long,
with smooth flanks but with large spiny tubercles on the upper
thigh. They are diurnal, living on large gravel plains and wide
wadis, where they feed on plants and seldom stray far away from
their burrows. In the past these lizards were eaten by the Bedouin.
(photo: Francis Gilbert 1995 Wadi Isla)
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9. Snakes
Snakes are still fairly common in Egypt, and there are a number of poisonous species to
be aware of. Mostly they avoid humans and thus luckily they are seldom seen.
Despite the name, only about half of Horned Vipers in Egypt have
horns; it is a large snake up to 74 cms long, sandy-coloured with
large brown spots or squares on the dorsal midline alternating with
smaller lateral dark spots. A species typical of wadis with
vegetation and sandy areas, it also occurs in a wide variety of
other habitats; it is more common at lower elevations. It buries
itself in sand under vegetation, waiting for suitable prey to come to
rest in the shade. (photo: wikimedia)
A medium-sized thin snake with a black head and neck, and a grey
body with about 30-40 thin black bands. This is a rare species,
endemic to a very small area of Sinai, the Negev and western
Jordan. Not a great deal is known about its biology, but it is
nocturnal, foraging among plants in mountain wadis. (photo: Linzy
Elton Aug 2009 Wadi Gebal)
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10. Blue butterflies
A large proportion of Egypts 61 species of butterfly belong to the Lycaenidae, the Blues
family. This is because many blues are adapted to arid habitats, perhaps not
unconnected with their ability to form specialised relationships with ants, either obligate or
not. South Sinai has two of the half-a-dozen candidates for the smallest butterfly in the
world. All butterflies are called farasha by the Bedouin.
Like the Sinai Baton Blue, the Sinai Hairstreak is also endemic to
the high mountains of the St Katherine Protectorate. It has a green
underside with a prominent thin white line across the middle. It has
not been studied, and hence less is known about it. Adults can be
seen at the right time of the year flying around trees of the
scattered and very rare Sinai Buckthorn Rhamnus disperma, but
also Sinai Hawthorn Crataegus sinaica and cotoneaster
Cotoneaster orbicularis. The larvae feed on Buckthorn, and
perhaps the other species as well. (photo: Mike James 2001
Safsafa)
A tiny butterfly that is mainly brown, but with orange on the rear
edge of the underside of the hind wing, peppered with a line of
black spots each topped with a metallic green spot. These are very
common butterflies, usually to be found near their larval foodplant,
the small prostrate plant Andrachne telephioides that can be much
harder to find than the butterfly itself! (photo: Kathy Meakin 2005
Wadi Arbaein)
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11. Other butterfies
Other butterflies include a Swallowtail, a Brown and a fair few White butterflies with varied
life histories. South Sinai contains about two-thirds of all Egypts recorded species of
butterfly.
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12. Insects
There is a huge variety of hundreds of species of insects other than butterflies that live in
South Sinai. We have picked out a handful of interesting ones here to represent this
variety. Many wadis have yet to be visited and explored by biologists, and hence there
are many species yet to be described.
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13. Anthropods
Some creepy crawlies are just simply unpleasant, and Sinai has its fair share, including
the fearsome Camel Spider.
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14.a Trees
Trees are vital elements of most ecosystems, including even the desert. Here are three
very characteristic species that you will see in Sinai.
The Date Palm is characteristic of the desert, and has been cultivated for
thousands of years. Trees are either male or female, and most pollination
occurs not by the wind, as naturally, but artificially by humans physically
taking male catkins to female flowers. They grow at low altitudes and are
rather rare higher up in the mountains. A Feiran date stuffed with an almond
is a sweet for which Sinai used to be famous. (photo: Francis Gilbert 2004
Abu Seila)
A small tree with large fleshy leaves, large white clustered flowers with purple
tips to the fleshy petals, and large round green fruits; damaging the plant
causes a thick milky juice to be exuded, which is full of heart poisons
(cardenolides). It is a plant of disturbed ground, and is said to be an indicator
of overgrazing; rather rare in Sinai, it is not a plant of the high mountains, but
is most common close to the sea. It is pollinated by a large carpenter bee that
flies very long distances (many km) between individual trees. (photo: Francis
Gilbert 2004 Nuweiba)
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14.b Trees
Here are a few more trees that are notable in South Sinai, including one - tamarisk - that
might even be said to form forests!
A graceful tree with long feathery branches clad in minute leaves, and in
spring with spikes of beautiful pink blossoms like catkins. It is very common in
Sinai wadis, and can almost form dense thickets in some places (e.g. Tarfa,
named after it, on the road from Feiran to St Katherine). In former times it was
much used for firewood. (photo: wikimedia)
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15. Orchard trees
The Gebaliya Bedouin of the St Katherine area are unique among Bedouin in tending
walled gardens containing fruit trees and vegetables. Probably this habit derived from the
practices of the Byzantine monks who colonised the area in the 2nd-3rd centuries AD.
A small tree with large spear-shaped leaves with serrate margins, pink flowers
appearing in early spring well before the leaves unfold, and large green felty
fruit. Almonds are the major produce from the orchards, but are not
commercially sold and so much of the produce is not used. In former times the
Gebaliya used to exchange their almonds for dates from Wadi Feiran; inserting
an almond into the soft jamcei date and pressing them produces al shana, a
favourite winter food. (photo: Mike James)
A small tree with ovate leaves with a rounded base and finely
serrated margin, the white to pink flowers appearing in very early
spring well before the leaves unfold. In the old days, the ripening of
apricots in St Katherine in May was the signal for families to decamp
with their flocks to their gardens in the high mountains. Dried apricots
are a major produce of the gardens, but as with almonds, much is not
used because there are no commercial outlets. (photo: Tim Hurst
June 2005 Wadi Gebal)
A low tree often with knarled and tortuous branches, with large papery leaves
with slightly toothed margins. The large fruits are delicious, unlike the small
sour ones of the other local fig, hamaaT (Ficus palmata). The Bedouin graft
tiin trunks onto hamaaT rootstocks because of the latters high drought
tolerance. Figs are pollinated by special symbiotic wasps whose grubs feed in
the figs. The fruit is actually an inside-out inflorescence, a group of flowers
that project inwards into the interior rather than outwards, like normal plants.
(photo: Tim Hurst June 2005 Wadi Gebal)
A small tree with white flowers opening before the rounded simple
leaves. Pears have been grown in Sinai orchards for many centuries,
with a number of very old varieties. The trees are very resistant, even
more so when grafted onto hawthorn rootstocks. (photo: Hilary
Gilbert 2007 Wadi Gebal)
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16. Succulents
Succulent plants are desert-adapted for water conservation, storing water in their stems
and leaves. Often the leaves are either absent or very inconspicuous, an adaptation to
reducing the rate of photosynthesis with its inevitable loss of water through transpiration.
They are usually poisonous to defend their water stores.
A peculiar plant with segmented stems and apparently no leaves; very like
Hammada elegans but internodes shorter and thicker, and the plant does not
dry yellow. Very common outside the Ring Dyke, if the plant is picked and
rubbed with water, a usable soap is produced. (photo: Zoltan Matrahazi 2009
Wadi Nogra)
Gymnocarpos decandrum
Bedouin name: jard Status: Not at risk
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17. Poisonous plants
Many Sinai plants are poisonous to their own herbivores, but some plants are particularly
poisonous to humans, and should be avoided if possible.
Milkweeds have their centre of diversity in the New World, but one lineage
colonised Africa: this is its most northerly representative. The milky latex
contains high concentrations of heart poisons. Some insects have overcome
this defence and use the chemical in their own defence: a bright yellow aphid,
a bright red bug, and a weevil whose larva feeds on the seeds in the seed
pods. (photo: Mike James)
There are six species in Sinai, the common ones being succulent
perennials with white and purple flowers, with either smooth
(H.muticus) or hairy (H.boveanus) stems and leaves. The plants
often form large mats of fresh and dead dry plant material. They
are highly toxic, and their poisons have been used to kill people
and pests for centuries; the seeds can remain dormant for at least
100 years. (photo: Hilary Gilbert 2006 Abu Seila)
These are both prostrate plants that trail along the ground, with
large and obvious round fruits, Cucumis (up to 4.5 cm diameter)
smaller than Citrullus (6-12 cms). Despite appearances the fruit is
very bitter to toxic. (photo: Francis Gilbert 1996 Wadi Isla)
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18.a Spiny plants
Most desert plants are heavily defended in some way or another against herbivores.
Spines are aimed at repelling vertebrate herbivores, whilst chemical poisons are usually
aimed at invertebrates, particularly insects.
Shrubs with spines and simple alternate leaves, in Sinai either green
elongate leaves and large reddish fruits (C.sinaica) or with grey
round leaves covered with fine whitish down, and small green fruits
(C.spinosa). These shrubs grow on the rocky sides of wadis in the
most inaccessible places. The large white flowers last only half a day,
but attract many insect visitors including rare bees. (photo: Francis
Gilbert 2005 Wadi Arbaein)
A typical large thistle up to 1.2 m high, with large solitary purple flowerheads
and very spiny stems and leaves. Frequent in Bedouin gardens, the large
flowerhead is a resource for a set of specialist insect herbivores. (photo: Fred
Manata June 2005 Wadi Arbaein)
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18.b Spiny plants
Many spiny plants belong to the family Asteraceae (=Compositae), particularly well
represented in the South Sinai mountains and wadis.
Typical knapweeds but with the flowerheads but not the rest of the
plant armoured with spines of various lengths in the different
species. The flowerheads are a beautiful pinky red with yellow
pollen. After the flowers are finished and the seeds dispersed, the
bleached opened-out bracts remain with their spines. (photo:
Francis Gilbert 2005 Wadi Ahmar)
This is a small spiny dwarf shrub with wool in between the spines; the
flowers are almost hidden within the wool, and inflate to form the fruit. It is
used in traditional medicine to treat kidney pain and asthma. (photo: Gordon
Wilkinson St Katherine)
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19. Very hairy herbs with yellow flowers
Defensive sticky or irritant hairs form another way in which plants defend themselves
against herbivores. Sticky hairs are aimed at insects, whereas irritant hairs are probably
anti-mammal defences.
A large plant with large distinct whorls of yellow flowers, it is a Sinai endemic,
occurring nowhere else in the world (except that now one can buy it as a
garden plant!). It is restricted to the high mountains only, but there it is a very
common plant in rocky gullies. The stems and leaves are covered in thick
golden woolly hair, but they are irritant hairs especially painful if they get in
the eyes. (photo: Mike James 2001 Safsafa)
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20. Strongly scented herbs with white flowers
The scent of aromatic herbs fills the air of the wadis in South Sinai, contributing to the
feeling of the sanctity of the area. The scents are actually chemical defences of the
plants, usually against insect herbivores, but often have medicinal value for humans as
well. We have organised these plants by the colour of their flowers.
With its mass of small white flowers and distinctive scent, oregano
can be found in many of the high-mountain wadis of South Sinai.
Called hyssop in the Bible, it is used fresh in foods of many kinds.
(photo: Mike James 2001 Wadi Gebal)
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21. Strongly scented herbs with blue flowers
Many medicinal plants belong to the family Lamiaceae (=Labiatae): here are three of
them with blue flowers.
This mint has characteristic long spikes of tiny blue flowers, and is an
indicator of water. It grows wherever water is abundantly available
either near or at the surface of the ground. It can substitute for
spearmint or ordinary mint in tea. (photo: Gordon Wilkinson St
Katherine)
A perennial woody at the base, with leaves divided into thin multiple branches
(2-3 pinnatisect) and many almost-smooth stems with spikes of beautiful pale-
blue zygomorphic flowers. (photo: Francis Gilbert 2004 Wadi Isla)
A perennial woody at the base, with cordate leaves with crenate edges; many
stems with flowering spikes of deep-blue narrow tubular zygomorphic flowers.
With a distribution only in the high mountains of Sinai and NW Saudi Arabia, this
is a rare near-endemic plant. It is pollinated by solitary bees. (photo: Francis
Gilbert 2004 Safsafa)
Sages have whorls of flowers up a flowering spike, and are of course well known
for their use in flavouring food. This species has purple flowers set in a large
green calyx, and is a rare component of the flora of the mountains of Sinai north
to Turkey. The Bedouin make a delicious herb tea with sage as the main
component. (photo: Gordon Wilkinson St Katherine)
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22. Strongly scented herbs with yellow flowers
Here are a set of very characteristic aromatic herbs of Sinai, all of which belong to the
family Asteraceae (=Compositae).
This is a low shrub with woody older stems; the stems are white-
woolly with hairs, the leaves oblong with an undulate margin; there
are clusters of small yellow flowerheads, and the flowers lack ray-
florets. The name gives away its intensely fragrant nature. It is a
southern Middle East speciality, but is extremely common in Sinai
and hence not at risk. (photo: Mike James 2001 Wadi Gebal)
Superficially like Tanacetum and Achillea, the oblong leaves with undulate
margins have no petioles, and clasp the stem closely; young leaves are
white-woolly, while older ones are smooth and green; the yellow flowers are
solitary, with small ray florets. (photo: Francis Gilbert 2004 Wadi Arbaein)
There are two abundant species with dissected leaves that used to
be classified as Artemisia, one of which has white-woolly stems
and leaves, much thinner leaves and is now separated into the
genus Seraphidium. Both are wind- rather than insect-pollinated,
and hence they have reduced flowerheads (<3mm) with very
prominent anthers so that the pollen can catch the wind. Both are
strongly aromatic medicinal plants. The Bedouin make a tea from
the stems and leaves, and inhale the vapour to relieve headcolds.
White cotton-like balls on the plants are insect galls that the
Bedouin use as tinder to start fires. (photo: Gordon Wilkinson St
Katherine)
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23. Miscellany
This is a miscellaneous set of plants, all common in the high mountains, with woundwort
having a rather wider distribution than the other two.
Like all its relatives, Stachys has a square stem covered in thin
woolly hair; it has a flowering spike of pale pink and white
zygomorphic flowers. It is very common in many of the mountain
wadis. (photo: Francis Gilbert 2004 Wadi Arbaein)
This is a member of a large genus of 41 species in Egypt, with very varied formsbut all exuding a milky latex
when damaged and with a characteristic inflorescence called a cyathium, consisting of a single female flower
surrounded by several male flowers. This endemic high-mountain species is more or less prostrate, woody,
with hairless fleshy leaves with a grey-green waxy bloom on them. It is common in Wadi Gebal, but not
elsewhere.
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PART IV. Dictionary
Note that it is very difficult to transliterate Arabic sounds to English, or the other way around. There are
several complex systems used by academic works, dictionaries and language books our dictionary
only aims to be an aid to help you communicate with your guide and is much simpler. You, as well as
the guide using this dictionary, will not be perfectly accurate, but this is part of the fun; learning some
basics from each other.
This is the first edition of the dictionary and will be updated sometime in 2010. If you have any
comments or want to make suggestions, you are welcome to do so at updates@discoversinai.net .
The pronunciation of words is based on the local Bedouin dialect, which slightly differs from
the Egyptian. There are also words only used in the Bedouin language; if relevant they are
included and marked with an asterix (*). There are sounds in Arabic which for most
Westerners are difficult to pronunciate; they are marked and explained below, but do not worry
too much about mastering them unless you are taking learning Arabic very seriously a close
enough attempt will most often do. Following are some notes on how to read the phonetic
transliteration of Arabic words in this dictionary and pronunciate the sounds.
.
. : . :
. : . :
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Numbers
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three thousand talatal alf
four thousand arbaatal alf
five thousand khamastal alf
nine thousand five tisaatal alf u
hundred and thirty six khamsomiyya u sitta u
talatiin
ten thousand ashartal alf
twenty thousand ashriin alf
thirty thousand talatiin alf
hundred thousand mit alf
two hundred thousand mitayn alf
three hundred totomit alf
thousand
million milyoon
Words
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English Arabic in English
cabbage kromb
caf gahua
cairns (rock trail rojom*
markers)
to call yatasal
camel jamal
camel race sabak jamaal * ,
cameleer jammaal
camera kamira
camp mukhaiim
can (may) mumkin
can (tin) alba ,
can opener muftaah alb
to cancel yelghi
candle shama
cane (bamboo) gasab
canyon kanion, sig ,
car arabiiya
to care (for) yahtam (bi)
carob kharuub
carrot jazr
to carry ishiil
castle galaa
cat kotta
cave tabaga* * ,
center markaz
chair korsi
change taghriir
change (small money) fakka
to change yughair ,
cheap rakhiis
to cheat yaghesh ,
checkpoint kamiin, nogda ,
cheese jibna
chemist, pharmacy sadaliiya ,
chest sadr
chicken farkha
child, children ayl, ayaal . ,
chili shotta
christian misiihi
church kiniisa
cigarette sighaair
cigarette paper warag bafra * ,
city mediina
clean nadiif
clever zaki ,
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to climb itlah ,
close (near) graiib
to close igfil
closed magfuul
clothing huduum ,
cloud sahaab
coast shatt (beach), sahal ,
cockroach sarsur
coffee gahua
cold bard ,
cold (sicknes) bard, dishba* * ,
cold (feeling) bardaan, garsaan* * ,
to come yiji
come! taa'l
company shirka
compass bosla
to complain yashteki ,
complaint shakwa
composting (eco) toilet hamaam bii-i
concrete (cement) sement
congratulation! mabruuk
constipation imsaak
consulate konsuliiya ,
contact lenses adasat ayuun ,
cook (person) tabbaakh
to cook tutbukh
coral shaab morjaniiya ,
cordial (drink) asiir ,
correct masbuut * ,
cotton goton
cotton wool suuf
cough koha
country balad
court, tribal court mahkama, talba . ,
courtyard hoosh
cow bagara
crazy majnuun
credit card fiiza
cucumber khiyaar
culture thagaafa
cumin kamuun
cup kabaaya
cut (injury) jarah ,
to cut yigta
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 107
English Arabic in English
dance rags
to dance yargos
danger khatar
dangerous khatiir
darkness dalma, atma* * ,
date (fruit) tamr, balaah ,
date (palm) nakhla
date of birth tariikh milaad
daughter bint
dawn fajr
day yom
day time nahaar
dead maiit
deadly mumiit
deaf atrash
to decide yugarir ,
deep (water) ghawiit* *
descendent min asl ,
descent nazuul
desert sahra
destination itijaah
to destroy yudammar
development tatwiir
diabetes marad el sukkar
diarrhea is-haal
dictionary gamuus
to die imuut
different mukhtaalif
difficult saab, waar*
dinner asha
dirty mish nadiifa , ,
disabled mauag
discount khasm
disease marad
diving ghats ,
to do yiaamal, isuwi* ,
doctor doktor
dog kalb
donkey homaar
door baab
down taht
dream halm
drink mashruub
to drink yashrab
to drive isuug
driver suwaag
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 108
drums (instrument) tabla
drunk sakraan
dry naashif, yaabis ,
duck batta
dyke (geological) jidda*
English Arabic in English
each kol waahid
eagle nisr
early badri
to earn yaksab ,
ears ozonayn
earth ard
east sharg
easy saahal
to eat iaakul
eco bii-i
eco tourism siyaaha bii-iya
education taliim
egg bayd
eggplant bitinjaan
Egypt masr
Egyptian masri
electricity kahraba
embassy safaara
emergency tawaari
empty faadi
endangered species muhaddad bialangraad
engaged makhtub
enough kafaaya
to enter yadkhol
environment bii-ah
epilepsy saraa
equality biltasaawi ,
equipment muadet ,
evening bil layl, fil layl*
every kol
example misaal
for example masalan
exchange taghiir ,
excuse me loo samaht
expensive ghaali
eye, eyes ayn, ayuun . ,
English Arabic in English
face wish, wajah* ,*
factory masna
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falcon sagr
fall (autumn) khariif
fall (accident) waga
to fall yaga
false ghalat ,
family ayla
famous mash-huur
fan (cooling) maruah
far baiid
fast sariiya
fat (stocky) takhiin
father ab ,
fault ghalta ,
fauna hayuanat
fear khof
feast ayd
to feel yihas ,
fence suur ,
ferry abaara
fever homma, sokhoniiya ,
few galiil
fianc/ fiance khatiib / khatiiba ,
film film
fig tiin
fig tree hamaata* * ,
to find yajid, yilagi ,
finger subaa
to finish akhlas ,
finished khalaas ,
fire naar
fire wood hatab
first aid isaafat auliiya
fish samak
flag aalam
flashlight kashaaf, batariiya
flat (surface) aadel ,
flood (flash flood) sayl
flora nabataat
flour digiig
flower ward * ,
fly (insect) dibbaana * ,
forbidden mamnuua ,
foreigner ajnabi ,
forever alatuul ,
to forget insi
fork shooka
food aakal * ,
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foot rijl ,
forest ghaaba
fossil hafrii ,
fox thaleb, abu husayn* * ,
free (of charge) balaash
free hor
freedom huriiya
friday joma
friend sadiik, saheb ,
front (in front of) gaddaam
fruit faakha
full milyaan
English Arabic in English
game laba
garbage zabayla
garden jiniina, karm* * ,
garlic thuum
gas gaaz
gas bottle anbuuba
gazelle ghazaala
generator mualid kahraba, motor ,
kahraba*
*
geology jilojiiya
gift hudiiya
girl bint
girlfriend sadiika, sahba ,
to give yiddi ,
glass gazaz *
glass (to drink from) kabaaya
glasses (to see) naddara
gloves juanti
to go imshi
lets go! yella, yella biina
goat mayza, anz* ,
god rab, allah ,
gold daahab
good kwais, helua ,
government hakuuma
to graft tarkiib shajara*
grandchild hafiid* *
grandfather jidd
grandmother jidda
granite jraniit, graniit
grapes anab
grave gabr
green akhdar
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 111
guava juaafa
guest dayf
guide diliil
gun baruuda* * ,
English Arabic in English
hair shaar
half nus ,
hand iid * ,
handicrafts mashoghulat
yadawiiya
hand made sanaa yadawiiya
happy mabsuut
harbour miina
hard (difficult) saab, waar*
hard (not soft) khashn
harassment izaaj ,
hat tagiiya
to have iakhod
he hua, huu*
head raas
head ache sudaa
health saha
to hear yisma
heart galb
hearth magaad
heat har ,
heat stroke darbit shams
heater (air) dafaaya
heavy thigiil
helicopter tiyaara, helikopter ,
help masaada
to help yusaad
Help me! (in case of elhagni ,
danger)
herb ashab
herbalist, healer hakiim . ,
here hina, hini*
heritage turaath
high aali
high blood pressure daght dam aali
highschool sanawiya
hill tal
to hire iajar
history tariikh
hole fatha, khorm ,
holy mugaddas
honey aasal
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 112
honeymoon shahr aasal
horse hasaan
hose (pipe) khartuum
hospital mustashfa
host mudiif
hot sokhn
hot (feeling) haraan
hot weather har
hotel funduk
hour saa
house bayt, daar*
how kayf*, izay ,
how much/how many? kam ,
how much? (money) bikam
human bini aadam ,
hungry jaaan
hunting sayd
hurry aajala * ,
in hurry mustaajal
husband zuuj, jooz* * ,
hut (from palm leaves) hoosha
hyena dabbaa
English Arabic in English
i ana
ice talj
ibex (mountain goat) taytel, sayd * ,
id card botaaga
if lao
important muhaym
impossible mainfaash, mustahiil
indigestion osr hadm
injection hogna
injury jarah
insect khanbuush* * ,
insect repellent bairosol
inside juua * ,
insurance tamiin
interesting mumtah ,
international dauli
invoice fatuura
is fii, ikuun ( ),
is not mafiish, maikunsh ,*
island jaziira
itch hakka ,
itinerary bornaamij rahla
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 113
English Arabic in English
jacket banta* * ,
jail sijm ,
jam marabba
jar bortomaan
jewellery dahab
joke nokta
to joke ihazzar, idhak* ,
journalist sahafi
judge gaadi
juice asiir
to jump yinut
jumper (pullover) bulover ,*
justice adl ,
English Arabic in English
kettle baraad
key muftaah
kidney kilya
to kill yagtul
king malik
kiss buusa * ,
kitchen matbakh
knee rukba
knife sikiina, khoosa* ,
to know aaref, khaaber* * ,
English Arabic in English
lake buhiira
land ard
landmine alghaam
language logha
large kibiir
last aakhr
late mitaakhr
laugh dahk
law ganuun
lawyer muhaami
laxatives mula-in ,
lazy kaslaan
to lead yaguud
leader gaaid
leaf warag (shajar)
to learn yitallem
leather jild
to leave imshi * ,
left shimaal
leg rijl
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lemon limuun
lentil ads
leopard (same as tiger) nimr ,
less (than) agal (min)
letter joaab
liar kadab, kudduub*
library maktaba
licence rughsa, tasriih * ,
to lie yakdub
life hayaa
light (not heavy) khafiif
light (brightnes) nuur
lighter wullaa
lighthouse fanaar ,
to like yihab
lion asad
to listen isma
little, small galiil, sughaiyir
little, few galiil, shuwaya , ,
to live yaiish
liver kibde
lizard (in general) zawaahaf ,
lizard (sinai agama) harduun* *
local mahalli
location mekaan ,
lock gafl
to lock igfil
long tawiil
to look ishuuf ,
to look for yidawar ala ,
to lose yidaya
loud aali
love hob
to love yihab
my love habiibi
low waati ,
low blood pressure hubuut
lucky mahsuus
luggage shanat
lump waram
lunch ghada
lungs riatayn
English Arabic in English
machine mekana ,
to make iamal, isui* * ,
man, men raajl, rajaal
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 115
manager mudiir
mandarin (tangerine) safandii *
mangrove mangroof
many kitiir
mango manja
map khariita
market suuk
married matjooaz
matches kabriit
mattress martaba
maybe mumkin
meat lahma
mechanic mikaaniki
medicine dawa
to meet yugaabal
melon shamaam
melon (water melon) batiih ( )
menstruation daura
metal hadiid ,
microbus mikrobas
midnight nus el layl
milk laban
mind (thinking) agl
mint nanaa
mint (wild mountain habak
variety)
minute digiiga
mirror miraaya
to miss (someone) yuhash nii
mistake ghalta
mobile phone mahmuul, moobail
mobile reception shabaka
monastery diir
money filuus, daraaham* ,
monk raahab
month shahr
moon gamar
more aktar
more (again) kamaan ,
morning sobh
mosque jaama
mosquito namuusa, bauuda* * ,
mosquito net namusiiya
mother umm
motorcycle motosiikl
to mount (a camel) yirkab
mountain jebel
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 116
mouse faar
mouth hanak*, khashm* * ,*
much kitiir
mud tiin, tiina * ,
mulberry tuut
museum mathaf
music musiika
musician azif muusika
muslim muslim
must laazim
mute saamet ,
English Arabic in English
name ism
nappy hafaad, bambarz
narrow da-yeg
nationality jansiiya
nature tabiia
natural, eco bii-i , ,
national park mahmiiya
nausea ghasayan
near graiib
necessary diruuri
to need yahtaaj
needle ibra
nervous asabi
net shabaka
never abadan
new jidiid
New Year sana jidiida
news akhbaar
newspaper jurnaal, jurnaan* * ,
next bad
next to jamb
niece bint akh/okht * ,
night layla
no la
noise, noisy doosha ,
noon dohr
north shimaal
nose anf, nokhra* * ,
not la, mish ,
notebook kuraasa ,
nothing mafiish * ,
now delwogti, el hiin* ,
nun raahaba
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 117
English Arabic in English
office maktab
oil zayt
ok tamaam ,
old (person) kibiir (fiil sin) ,*
old (thing) gidiim
olive zaituun
omelet omlet
onion basl
only bas
open maftuuah .
to open iftaah
operation (surgery) amaliiya
opposite aks
or au
orange bortogaal
oregano zaatar
to organize yunazzim
original asli
other taani *
outside barra ,
owner saahab
English Arabic in English
pain waja
palace gasr
palm (date) nakhl
palm leaf jiriid
pants bantaloon * ,
paper warag
party hafla
pasha baasha
passenger raakib ,
passport basbor, joaz safr
past, in the past zamaan
pasta makaroona
path tariik
to pay idfa
peace salaam ,
peach khokh
pear komitra, shitwi* ,
peas bizilla
peasant fellah
pen galam
people nas
pepper (vegetable, filfil
spice)
percent fiil miiya
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 118
permit tasriih
person nafr, fard ,
petrol benziin, betrool ,
pharmacy sidiliiya
photo suura
to photo yisaur
picture suura
pig khanziir
pigeon hamaama
pillow mughadda
pink bambii ,
pipe (hose) khartuum ( )
place mekaan
plant zaraa ,
plaster lazga
plastic blastiik
plastic bag kis blastiik ,
plate tabag
plum barghuug
poaching sayd aljaar
pocket jiib
poet sha-ar
poetry shar
poison simm
poisonous saam
police shorta
pollution talauth
pomegranate rumaan
pool (natural water galt, kharaza ,
pool)
pool ( swimming pool) hamaam sibaaha
poor fagiir
port miina
possible infaa, mumkin
post office bosta ,
pot (cooking) halla
potatoes botaatos
power taga, guua ,
to pray yisalli
prayer salaa
present, gift hudiiya
president rais
price saar
priest gasiis
prince amiir
princess amiira
prison sijn
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 119
problem mushkela
program bornaamij
to promise yuad
to protect yahmi
protected mahmii
pump tromba
pushy intahaazi ,
to put ihot ,
English Arabic in English
qualification tahiil, tadriib ,
quality jooda
quarry mahjar
quarter ruba
queen malika
question sual
quick siriiya
quiet haadi
quince safarjal, tafarjal * ,
English Arabic in English
rabbit arnab
race (competition) sabak
radio raadio
rain matar
rainbow aluaan el tayf * ,
rash boga jildiiya
rat faar kibiir
raw (uncooked) nayya
to read igraa
ready jaahez ,
really (originally) hagiigi ,
receipt fatuura
red ahmar
religion diin
to remember iftikar
to rent iajr
respect ahtraam
rest (remaining) baagi ,
rest raaha
to rest istaraiah ,
restaurant mataam
to return irja
rice ruz
rich ghani
to ride (a camel) irkab
right (correct) sah, masbuut ,
right (direction) imiin
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 120
road (general) tariik
road (asphalt) shayra, asfalt ,
rock hajar
rock hyrax wober
rocket (salad) jarjiir, rooka* * ,
rope habl
room ooda, looda* ,
round maduuar
rubbish zabayla
to run yajrii
English Arabic in English
sad (from) zalaan (min)
safari safaari
safe aamin
salad salata
salary marattab
salt milh
same (thing) nafs el shii
sand ramla
sandals sandal
to save (resources) yuaffar
to save (from danger) yunkiz
to say iguul
scared khaaiif
scarf shaal
school madrasa
scissors magas
scorpion agrab
sea bahr
to see ishuuf
to sell ibiiya
to sew ikhaat
shade dal
shampoo shambuu
shave halaga dign
she hiiya, hii*
sheep ghanm, kharfaan ,
sheet (for bed) milaaya
shell sadf
ship markab ,
shirt gamiis
shoes jazma
to shoot itukh * ,
shop mahal, dukaan ,
short gasiir
shoulder kitf
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to show yubayn ,
shower hamaam, dush ,
shrine magaam
shrub shajara sughaira ,
to shut igfil
shy maksuuf *
sick mariid, wajaaan*, * ,
taabaan
sickness marad ,
sign yafta
silver fadda
similar zei, mushaabih ,
simple basiit
since monzo, min ,
to sing yughanni
sister okht
to sit yagod
sitting place, hearth magaad
skin jild
sky samaa
sleep nom
to sleep inaym
sleeping bag kis nom
sleepy nasaan
slow batii
small sughaiyir
smell riiha
smoke dokhaan, dokhana* * ,
to smoke yudakhaan
snake thabaan
snow (ice) talj
soap sabuun
socks sharaab ( )
solar energy taga shamsiiya
soldier askarii
something haja
sometimes ahyaanan
son ibn
song oghoniiya
soon gariiban, graiib ,
sorry aasif
sound sot
soup shorba
south januub
to speak itkallam
spoon maalaga
spring (water) ayn
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spring (season) rabiiya
square (shape) marabba
stairs, steps sillum
to stand yugof
star, stars nijma, najuum ,
to start yibda
station mahatta ,
to stay (remain) yibga
to steal yisrag
stomach maada
stomachache maghas
stone hajar
to stop yugof
to store yukhazzan
store room makhzan, gasor*
storm aasifa
story gassa
stove (gas) botogaz, mansab*
straight (direction) alatuul, doghri
straight (line, person) aadel, doghri ,
strawberry faraaula
stroke (health) jalta
strong shidiid, batraan* ,
student taaleb
sugar sukkar
summer sayf
sun shams, shamsh*
sun cream kriim shams
sun rise shruug
sun set ghruub
sure akiid
to swim aum
sweat arak
to sweat iarak
sweater (pullover) buloover ,
sword sayf
English Arabic in English
table tarabayza
tablet (medicine) gors dawa, asbirin* ,
to talk itkallam
tall tawiil
tasty helua
tea shai
tea pot baraad
teacher muderras
telephone tilifoon
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 123
to telephone (to) tasl (bii)
to tell iguul
tent khayma
tent (bedouin tent) bayt shaar
thank you shukron
there hanaak
they hum
thief haraami
thin rafiiya
thing haja, shii ,,
to think ifakkar
third, two third tilt, tiltayn , ,
thirsty atshaan
this haada, da ,
thought, idea fikra ,
thread khayt
throat zuur
thyme zaatar
ticket tazkara
tiger (same as leopard) nimr
time wogt
tin, can alba ,
tip (money) bakshiish
tired taabaan
tissues manadiil
tobacco dokhaan, khodri*
today innaharda, el yom* * ,
together maabaat, sawa
toilet hamaam, dorat el
maya
toilet paper warag toalet
tomato tomaatom
tomato paste/sauce salsa ,
tomorrow bukra
torch, flashlight batariiya , ,
too, as well kamaan, bardo ,. * ,
tooth, teeth sin, sinaan , ,
tooth brush forshit sinaan
tooth paste majuun sinaan
to touch ilmis
tour leader morshid
tourist saaiah
tourist police shorta siyaaha
towel fuuta
tradition tagaliid ,
trail tariik ,
train gatar
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 124
to translate yutarjim
translator mutarjim
trap fakh ,
travel safar
tray (to serve food) saniiya
tree shajara
trek rahla
tribe gabiila
tribal law orfi
trousers bantaloon ,
truck loori, arabiiya nagl ,
to trust yasig
true sahiiah, hagiigi ,
truth hagiiga
to try ihaul
tuna tuuna
turkey (bird) dik ruumi, dindi* ,
turtle sulhafa
English Arabic in English
uncle (on father side) amm
uncle (on mother side) khaal
under taht
to understand faahem
university jamaa
up fog
Upper Egyptian saiidi
urgent diruuri ,
useful mufiid
English Arabic in English
vacation ajaaza
valley waadi
vegetables khudaar
vegetarian nabaati
very jiddan ,
view manzar
village gariia, balad ,
visa fiiza ,
English Arabic in English
to wait istanna ,
to walk imshi
wall hayta
walnut ayn el jamal
to want aaiiz ,
war harb
warm dafa
www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 125
to wash ighsil
watch (time) saa
to watch ishuuf ,
water maya
water fall/cascade sid
water pool galt, kharaza * ,
water tank khazaan, hod * ,
watermelon batiikh
way tariik * ,
we ahna
weak daiif
weather jooa
wedding farah
week isbuua
welcome (for thank aafan
you)
welcome (at arrival) marhabaa, ahlan u ,
sahlan
well (water) biir
west gharb
wet mabluul
what ay, aysh* ,
wheat gamh
wheel ajala
when imta, mitay* ,
where fayn, wayn* ,
white abiad
who miin
whole kol
why lay, laysh* *,
wide waasa ,
wife zooja, maraat* ,
wild barri
to win iksab
wind hawa ,
window shibaak
wine khamra
winter shitaa
wire silk
with ma
without biduun, bala* , ,
wolf diib
woman, women mara*, hariim , * ,
wood khashab
wool suuf
word kilma
work shoghul
to work ishtaghal
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workshop warsha
world aalam
worm duuda
wound jarh
to write iktib
wrong ghalat
English Arabic in English
year sana
yellow asfar
yes naam, aywa ,
yesterday imbarrah
yet lissa, bad ,
you (singular ente/enti, entu ,,
masc/fem, plural)
young sughaiyir
youth shabaab
English Arabic in English
zucchini koosa
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www.discoversinai.net A guide to the natural, cultural and historical faces of South Sinai 128