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SEASONAL HERBS: SHOP, STORE & COOK

Pasta SaucesLight Yet Creamy

CookFresh
Make Vegetables the Star
THE BEST OF FINE COOKING

Sauts, Stir-Fries, Salads, and More


Spring Vegetables
with Garlic Dill Weeknight
Sauce, p. 25
Dinners
Faster,
Fresher
Stress-
Free
SPRING
MENU
YOGURT
10 Ways

COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


Taunton Product #052118
www.finecooking.com
Ba g
This Easy One Pot Meal is All Natural and Extra Juicy

with NEW If You Care Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bags.


RECIPE

Juicy Roasted Chicken Thighs in a Bag


Serves 4-6
Ingredients
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Gluten and Allergen Free.
Preparation
Totally Chlorine Free. 30 Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. mustard mixture on top of the chicken and vegetables and fold
Vegan. Vegetarian. 40 In a small bowl, mix together Maille Dijon Originale Mustard, the open end of the bag tightly towards the top as many times as
white wine, lemon juice and zest, garlic, and thyme, then set aside. possible to seal.
Renewable Resources.
50 Place potatoes, leeks, and shallots in an If You Care Medium 60 Roast in the oven for 35 minutes, then remove and open the bag
All Natural. Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bag, seam side up on a rimmed by either ripping or cutting with scissors to expose the top of the
baking sheet or roasting pan. Then season the chicken with chicken. Baste chicken with butter, then place back in oven to
the garlic powder, salt and pepper and place inside the bag on roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until desired brownness,
top of the vegetables. Place the lemon slices in the bag and pour then serve and enjoy!

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contents
C O O K F R E S H S P R I N G 2 0 1 7, N O. 1 1 8

F E AT U R E S
24 seasonal herbs 52 10 ways to cook 66 one simple method,
Cook with springs fragrant bounty in
suppers, snacks, and more.
with culture four delicious
Tangy yogurt is a star in
dressings, dips, and more.
pasta dinners
32 vegetables, steamed Learn how to make light, creamy
pasta sauce.
and sauced 62 rhubarbs
Five easy sauces dress up everything
from baby artichokes to sugar
greatest hits 72 versatile coconut
Brighten up your favorite desserts Fresh or dried, this ingredient livens
snap peas.
with sweet-tart rhubarb. up both sweet and savory dishes.
38 easy spring supper
Relax...this fresh, flavorful menu is
practically stress-free.

46 eggs in 10
Ten incredible egg dishes that
take about 10 minutes (or less).

Spaghetti with
Shrimp in
Curry Cream
Sauce, p. 68
93

90
90

86

20

84

D E PA R T M E N T S

8 Welcome
84 Test Kitchen
10 On the Web Tips, techniques, ingredients.

13 Make It Tonight 92 Credits


Fast and fresh meals, any night
of the week. 93 Sources
18 Preserving the Season 94 Nutrition
Make your own tasty, meaty jarred
mushrooms. 96 Recipe Index
20 3 Ways with Grapefruit 98 What Were Cooking Now
Whether its used in breakfast or a Twelve ways to use four seasonal
savory side, this sweet-tart citrus fruit ingredients we cant get enough of.
is always a favorite.

22 Repertoire
Caesar salad: a classic every cook should
know how to prepare.

Pp Cover photography by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day.

www.finecooking.com
4 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017
THE BEGINNING OF EXTRAORDINARY
Maille Dijon Originale mustard,
enriching flavors since 1747
Meals, Maille, Memories.
maille.com
JOIN OUR

EXPLORE OUR RECIPES


on
COLAVITARECIPES.COM

facebook.com/ColavitaOliveOil
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W E LC O M E

THE
BEST
OF

CookFresh
Issue Editor Sarah Opdahl
Issue Art Director Brittany Carlson
Cover Art Director Teresa Fernandes
Issue Copy Editor Diane Sinitsky

Editorial Director Kathy Kingsley


Art Director Teresa Fernandes
Senior Editor Joanne Smart
Senior Copy/ Chris Hoelck
Production Editor
Staff Photographer Scott Phillips
Brussels Sprouts with Senior Food Ronne Day
Peppercorn-Parmesan Editor/Stylist
Cream Sauce, p. 34
Food Editor/ Diana Andrews
Test Kitchen Manager
Art/Production Tinsley Morrison

Hello, Spring Coordinator


Test Kitchen Intern William Stewart

SPRING HAS ARRIVED! The warmer weather and longer days mean that local
Editors at Large Jennifer Armentrout
fresh produce is popping up at the market: tender peas, sweet strawberries, Susie Middleton
meaty asparagus, and more. Need help turning all of those fruits and Contributing Editors Abigail Johnson Dodge
Rebecca Freedman
vegetables into delicious, nutritious dishes? Look no further. This special Tony Rosenfeld
Molly Stevens
issue of Fine Cooking is packed with fantastic spring recipes for breakfast (try Jill Silverman Hough
the Poached Egg and Asparagus Toasts with Lemon-Chive Beurre Blanc, (drinks)
Joanne Weir
p. 51), dessert (indulge in tart Rhubarb Brown Sugar Crumble, p. 65), and
Senior Managing Editor, Carolyn Mandarano
everything in between. To make healthier eating even easier, weve provided Books
icons to help you identify which recipes t your eating and cooking style, from
FineCooking.com
quick to vegetarian to make-ahead (see below). Now you have the tools youll Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge
need to cook with whats fresh and delicious this season. Video Director Colin Russell

The Fine Cooking Editors The Best of Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1931-8227)
is published by The Taunton Press, Inc.,
Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone
203-426-8171. Canadian GST paid registration
A guide to making healthy choices #123210981.
These icons are located throughout this issue of CookFresh to help you Printed in the USA
choose recipes that match your needs.

QUICK: Under 30 minutes. WHEAT-FREE: Contains no


wheat or wheat products.
Please note, icon does not
HEALTHY: Calories are 550 or indicate gluten-free.
fewer; saturated fat is 5grams
or fewer; cholesterol is 300 mg MAKE AHEAD: Can be
or fewer. completely prepared ahead
(may need reheating and a
VEGETARIAN: May contain garnish to serve).
eggs and dairy ingredients.

8 1==94@3A6A>@7<5 %
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10 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


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M A K E I T TO N I G H T
Fast and fresh meals, any night of the week.

grilled ap steak
and asparagus
with barnaise butter
A compound butter packed with tarragon and
shallot mimics the flavors of barnaise sauce
with much less effort. If you have any left over,
try it on salmon or rice. Serves4
2 large sprigs fresh tarragon
2 oz. (4Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
2 Tbs. minced shallot
1 Tbs. dry white wine or vermouth
1 Tbs. white-wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. beef flap meat, cut into pieces
of even thickness, if necessary
1 bunch asparagus, preferably thick, trimmed
1 Tbs. olive oil

Strip the tarragon leaves from the stems, finely chop


the leaves to yield about 2 tsp., and set aside.
In an 8-inch skillet, melt 1Tbs. of the butter over
medium-low heat. Add the shallot and tarragon
stems, and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallot
is translucent, about 2minutes. Add the wine,
vinegar, and 1Tbs. water, increase the heat to
medium, and cook until the liquid is mostly
evaporated, about 3minutes. Transfer to a small
bowl, remove and discard the tarragon stems, and
let cool completely. Add the remaining 3Tbs. butter,
the chopped tarragon, tsp. salt, and 18tsp. pepper,
and mix with a fork until well combined. Set aside until
ready to use. (The butter may be made up to 1week
ahead; refrigerate and return to room temperature
before using.)
Prepare a medium-high (400F to 475F) gas
or charcoal grill fire. Put the meat and asparagus
on separate sides of a large rimmed baking sheet
(or similar). Coat with the olive oil, and season
generously with salt and pepper. Grill the meat,
turning every 2minutes, until cooked to your liking,
6 to 8minutes for medium (140F). Transfer to a
cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and let rest.
Meanwhile, grill the asparagus, turning after 1minute,
until charred and tender, 2 to 3minutes. Transfer to a
serving platter. Thinly slice the meat against the grain,
arrange on the platter with the asparagus, top both
with dollops of the butter, and serve.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 13
deviled pork chops
Flavorful sauces, sugar, and spice make a bold and
delicious coating for pork chops. Serves 4
cup Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
tsp. ground cayenne
4 1-inch-thick, bone-in, center-cut loin
pork chops (2 to 3 lb.)
Kosher salt
1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Stir together the mustard, brown sugar, lemon juice,


Worcestershire, and cayenne in a small bowl.
Position an oven rack 3 to 4 inches from the broiler
element and heat the broiler to high. Line the bottom
of a broiler pan with foil and replace the perforated top
part of the pan. Arrange the pork on the broiler pan and
pasta with peas, arugula, season generously on both sides with salt. Brush about
half of the mustard mixture over the top of the chops.
and prosciutto Broil until the chops are deeply browned in spots, 6 to
8 minutes. Turn the chops over with tongs, brush with the
Use a sharp vegetable peeler for the Parmigiano shavings.
remaining mustard mixture, and continue to broil until
Serves 4 to 6
the pork is browned and just cooked through (an instant-
1 lb. dried pasta, such as another 3to 4minutes if using read thermometer in the center of a chop should register
orecchiette or penne fresh or 1minute if using thawed 145F), about 5 minutes more. Let rest a few minutes
1 lb. arugula (about 4 small frozen. Season lightly with salt before serving. Sprinkle the better-looking sides of the
bunches) chops with the parsley, if using, and transfer to serving
and pepper. With a slotted spoon,
6 Tbs. unsalted butter remove the peas and garlic from plates.
3 cloves garlic, minced the pan andset aside. Leave as
1 lb. fresh English peas, shelled much liquid in the pan as possible
(pods discarded or saved and add the olive oil to the pan.
for vegetable stock; see Test
Kitchen, p.86) or 1 cup frozen Add the prosciutto andcook
peas, thawed until very lightly browned, about
Kosher salt and freshly 5minutes. Add the arugula in
ground blackpepper batches, stirring and adding
3 Tbs. olive oil handfuls as it wilts. Add the
10 thin slices prosciutto, diced lemon juice. Cook for only a few
(6 to 7oz.) minutes, just until all the greens
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice havewilted.
cup freshly grated When the pasta is done,
Parmigiano-Reggiano; plus reserve 1cup of the cooking
cup shavings forgarnish water and drain the pasta. In a
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat- large bowl, toss the pasta with
leafparsley
the peas, prosciutto, arugula, and
Put a pot of water on to boil. Salt grated Parmigiano, along with
it well and boil the pasta following cup of the reserved cooking
the package directions. water. Season with more ground
Meanwhile, trim, wash, and pepper; toss. Taste and adjust
thoroughly dry the arugula; chop the seasonings if needed. If
it coarsely and set aside. In a large the pasta seems dry, toss with
saucepan over medium heat, more of the reserved cooking
melt 4 Tbs. of the butter. Add water. Toserve, garnish each
the garlic and saut until barely portion with the parsley and the
golden, about 2minutes. Add the Parmigiano shavings.
peas and saut until tender-crisp,

14 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


tuna, escarole, and chickpea salad
with warm herb-garlic vinaigrette
Good-quality tuna is a fabulous secret weapon for easy but satisfying meals. Its
silky texture and slightly briny flavor make this salad feel substantial. Serves 4
2 6.7-oz. jars good-quality tuna in oil (see small red onion, very thinly 3minutes. Add the garlic and cook until
Test Kitchen, p.90) sliced lengthwise fragrant, about 1minute. Remove from the
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed Kosher salt and freshly heat, and whisk in the lemon juice, parsley,
2 Tbs. minced shallot ground pepper
rosemary, and pepper flakes.
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved with a In a large bowl, toss the escarole,
vegetable peeler (a heaping 13cup)
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice chickpeas, and onion with enough of the
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Strain the oil from the tuna into a 1cup warm vinaigrette to coat the greens well.
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary measure. Add oil, if necessary, for a total of Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes cup. In a medium bowl, flake the tuna into Divide the salad among 4 dinner plates
1 medium head (about 1lb.) escarole, large pieces and set aside. and top each with a quarter of the tuna.
trimmed, cleaned, and cut into In a 1-quart saucepan, heat the oil Drizzle the remaining dressing over the
bite-size pieces and shallot over medium heat and cook, tuna, top with the cheese, and serve.
1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed stirring occasionally, until softened, about

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 15
chicken, shiitake, and watercress stir-fry
This stir-fry gets deep complexity from Chinese fermented chile-bean sauce, also called toban djan, which can be found in the
Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets. The dish comes together in a snap and is great with rice. Serves 2 to 4
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken Put the chicken in a medium bowl and toss chicken and any accumulated juices to the
thighs, cut into -inch pieces with 2tsp. of the soy sauce, the sake, corn- pan. Stir in the broth and the remaining 1tsp.
1 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce starch, and tsp. salt. Heat a wok or a 12-inch soy sauce. Cook, stirring frequently, until the
1 tsp. sake or Shaoxing skillet over high heat. Add 1Tbs. of the oil chicken is cooked through, about 2minutes.
2 tsp. cornstarch and the chicken to the pan in a single layer. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in
Kosher salt Leave the chicken undisturbed for about a the watercress, vinegar, and more chile-bean
2 Tbs. canola or other neutral oil minute before stirring, and then cook, stir- sauce to taste. Toss until the watercress wilts.
1 Tbs. Chinese chile-bean sauce; ring occasionally, until browned and par- Serve hot.
more to taste tially cooked, about 4minutes. Transfer the
2 tsp. minced fresh ginger chicken to a bowl.
6 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed Return the pan to high heat. Add the
and sliced (about 2cups) remaining 1Tbs. oil, the chile-bean sauce, and
cup lower-salt chicken broth ginger to the pan, and stir to combine. Add
1 medium bunch watercress (6oz.), the mushrooms, and cook, stirring frequently,
stemmed until tender, about 2minutes. Return the
1 Tbs. rice vinegar
almond-crusted halibut
The crunchy earthiness of the halibuts nut coating is balanced by a crisp green salad and a drizzle of
tangy lemon-tarragon vinaigrette. Since fish cooks so quickly, this dish is speedy by nature, but you can
save even more time by chopping the almonds in a food processor and making the vinaigrette while the
halibut cooks. Serves 4
4 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour and tsp. salt in the third. Lightly season both sides of the
Kosher salt and freshly ground fish with salt and pepper. Dredge each piece in the flour,
black pepper then the egg, and then the almond mixture, pressing the
2 large eggs nuts onto the fish so they adhere.
1 cups toasted slivered almonds, finely chopped Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest heat. Add the fish and cook, flipping once, until browned
1 1- to 1-lb. skinless halibut fillet (preferably 1 inch on both sides and flaky throughout (cut into a piece to
thick), cut into 4pieces and patted dry check), about 4minutes per side.
cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Meanwhile, put the greens in a large bowl. In a small
5 oz. (8 cups) mixed salad greens bowl, whisk the lemon juice, shallot, tarragon, tsp. salt,
cup fresh lemon juice (from 1 large lemon) and tsp. pepper. Gradually whisk in the remaining cup
1 medium shallot, minced olive oil. Toss the greens with enough of the vinaigrette to
1 Tbs. chopped fresh tarragon leaves lightly coat. Season to taste with salt.
Divide the greens among 4 plates and top with one of
Line up three medium bowls on the counter. Whisk the the halibut fillets. Drizzle some of the remaining vinaigrette
flour, 2tsp. salt, and 1tsp. pepper in the first; lightly beat over each and serve.
the eggs in the second; and mix the almonds, lemon zest,

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 17
PRESERVING THE SEASON

Mushrooms
Make your own tasty, meaty jarred mushrooms.
before spring has really sprung, it can feel like there isnt much in season.
Thats why we love mushrooms. From cremini and shiitake to portobellos and hens
of the woods, cultivated mushrooms are often one of the few items in stores that
havent been own in from across the globe. So buy a bunch and enjoy them for weeks
to come by preserving them in olive oil.
These mushrooms get lots of avor from a quick sear, although they keep a nice,
chewy texture because theyre not cooked all the way through. The wine-and-vinegar
marinade infuses them with even more avor and provides an acidic balance to
the rich olive oil. Tastier than your average store-bought jarred mushrooms, these
are delicious on crostini, over steak, pork, or chicken, and as a pita topping or
omelet lling.

Mix the wine, vinegar, garlic, lemon zest,


twice-marinated rosemary, salt, juniper berries, fennel seed,
mushrooms red pepper flakes, and black pepper to
make a marinade.
This recipe works well with a variety Heat 3 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 12-inch
of mushrooms. The cooking time, skillet over medium-high heat until very
however, varies slightly depending on hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring
the type you use (see sidebar below). once or twice, until golden brown on one or
You can marinate each mushroom two sides, 1 to 4 minutes, depending on
variety separately, or if you want to the type of mushroomthey should not be
marinate a mix of mushrooms, cook cooked all the way through. Spread on
them separately and then marinate a plate to cool.
them together. Yields about 2 cups Add the marinade to the skillet. Bring
to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for
1 cups dry white wine
5 minutes to infuse the flavors. Put the
cup white-wine vinegar
mushrooms and marinade in a heatproof
3 medium cloves garlic, crushed container, such as a 1-quart Pyrex measur-
2 1x4-inch strips lemon zest, white ing cup. Let cool to room temperature,
pith removed
cover, and refrigerate overnight.
1 4-inch sprig rosemary
Drain the mushrooms, reserving the gar-
2 tsp. kosher salt lic and discarding the marinade and most
tsp. juniper berries (about 14), of the aromatics (its OK if some of the aro-
lightly crushed
matics stick to the mushrooms). Pack the
tsp. fennel seed, lightly chopped
mushrooms and garlic into a pint jar with lid
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (or other sealable container). Add enough
tsp. coarsely ground black pepper of the remaining oil to cover, and refrigerate
cup extra-virgin olive oil at least overnight and up to 1 month.
(approximately)
1 lb. mushrooms, trimmed (see below)

Mushroom prep
Each type of mushroom requires slightly different trimming. Heres how to prepare a handful of favorites:
Cremini Halve if large; cook 2 to 3 minutes. Oyster If large, separate lobes from Trumpet royale Leave whole or in
Portobello Remove stem and gills and bunches; if small, leave in little bunches little clumps if small; cut lengthwise
cut into -inch-thick slices; cook 1 to to inch thick; cook 1 to 2 minutes. into halves or thirds if large. The stems
2 minutes. MaitakeHen of the woods Separate should be to inch thick. Cook about
Shiitake Remove stems and leave whole; into little bunches with - to -inch-thick 4 minutes.
cook 1 to 2 minutes. stems; cook about 2 minutes.

18 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


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3 WAYS W I T H . . .

Grapefruit
Whether its used in breakfast or a savory side, Juicy Fruit
this sweet-tart citrus fruit is always a favorite. When youre shop-
ping for grapefruit,
look for those
that feel heavy
for their size. The
extra weight is all
juice. They should
also have smooth,
Pretty in Pink
shiny skin, with no
(or White)
blemishes. Store
There are two types grapefruit at room
of grapefruit: white temperature for up
yellow and pinkred. to a week, or refrig-
Pink grapefruit tend erate them for up to
to be sweeter, while 3weeks.
white grapefruit are
often more flavorful.
Both are delicious,
so choose based on
what level of sweet-
ness youre after
and what color you
want in your dish.

grapefruit slaw
This tangy slaw packs a bit of heat from jalapeo and red pepper flakes. Pepitas
sprinkled on top add a salty crunch. Try serving it with grilled seafood. Serves 4
cup thinly sliced red onion tsp. finely grated lime zest and transfer to a large bowl. Add the cabbage,
3 cups thinly sliced napa cabbage small jalepeo, seeded and finely grapefruit, celery, carrot, and red pepper.
2 pink grapefruit, peeled and chopped (about 1tsp.) In the medium bowl, whisk together the
segmented with 1Tbs. juice reserved tsp. granulated sugar grapefruit juice, oil, vinegar, lime juice and
1 medium celery rib, thinly sliced on a Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes zest, jalapeo, sugar, and pepper flakes.
diagonal (about cup) 2 Tbs. roasted, salted pepitas Toss the slaw with the dressing. Sprinkle
cup coarsely grated carrot 1 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh with the pepitas and parsley. Season to taste
cup finely diced red bell pepper flat-leaf parsley with salt, and serve immediately.
2 Tbs. grapeseed oil Kosher salt
1 Tbs. seasoned rice vinegar
In a medium bowl, soak the onion in just
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
enough water to cover for 10minutes. Drain

20 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


grilled grapefruit halves
with honey, brown sugar,
and pistachios
These honeyed grapefruit halves have brunch written
all over them. Grilling caramelizes the sugar in the fruit,
accentuating its sweetness, while pistachios add warm,
toasty flavors, and mint and crme frache lend bright,
refreshing notes. Serves 4

cup honey, preferably orange blossom


2 Tbs. orange liqueur, preferably Grand Marnier
2 pink grapefruit, cut in half crosswise and scored
between segments and around the edges
2 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar
cup salted pistachios, coarsely chopped and toasted
cup crme frache
3 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh mint leaves

Combine the honey and orange liqueur in a small bowl.


Brush half of the mixture evenly over the cut side of the
grapefruit halves.
Heat a cast-iron grill pan on high heat until water instantly
evaporates when sprinkled on the pan. Carefully place the
grapefruit halves, cut side down, in the pan and cook until grill
marks form, about 4minutes.
Transfer the grapefruit halves to serving plates, drizzle with
the remaining honey mixture, and sprinkle with the dark brown
sugar and pistachios. Garnish with dollops of crme frache and
the fresh mint leaves, and serve.

grapefruit curd
This sunny curd is the perfect consistency
to pour over ice cream or spread on toast.
Makes 1cups

4 oz. (8Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 8pieces


cup granulated sugar
cup fresh pink grapefruit juice
3 Tbs. lightly packed finely grated grapefruit zest
Kosher salt
Pinch of ground cardamom (optional)
8 large egg yolks

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium


heat. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the
sugar, grapefruit juice, zest, a pinch of salt, and a pinch
of ground cardamom, if using. Whisk in the yolks until
smooth. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook,
whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats
the back of a wooden spoon, 5 to 6minutes. Do not boil.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, using the
wooden spoon to force it through. Let cool to room tem-
perature, stirring occasionally.
Cover with plastic wrap directly touching the
surface. Refrigerate until ready to use, up to 2weeks.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 21
R E P E R TO I R E

Caesar Salad
A classic salad every cook should know how to prepare.
we dont know exactly who invented this iconic salad of crisp romaine lettuce and garlicky croutons, with
its tangy, creamy dressing. Some say it was Giacomo Junia, an Italian chef working in Chicago, who named
it in honor of Julius Caesar. Others credit Tijuana chef and restaurateur Caesar Cardini, who allegedly found
himself short on salad ingredients late one night in 1924 and improvised with items he had on hand.
Whatever its true origins, were just happy we dont have to go to a restaurant to satisfy our craving for
the crunchy, cheesy goodness of a classic Caesar. Making one at home is as simple as shopping for the
best ingredients (including top-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano) and using them to make your own salad,
croutons, and dressing. The homemade versions are worlds better than the store-boughtand the secret
to Caesar success.

Caesar Salad Basics

Tool Kit
Check to make sure you have
these kitchen essentials
before making Caesar salad:

1 2 AVO`^QVSTaY\WTS
:O`US`W[[SR
Tossing cubed white bread with melted Coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano baking sheet
garlic butter before toasting makes for gives the Caesar dressing and the salad  A[OZZ _cO`b
addictive croutons. great texture and flavor. aOcQS^O\
 :O`USZW_cWR
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O\gU`Wb2`gbVSZSOdSabV]`]cUVZgW\OaOZORa^W\\S` U`ObSWbg]c`aSZTW\OT]]R^`]QSaa]` 2 or use the box grater
]`eWbVOYWbQVS\b]eSZa]bVSR`SaaW\UORVS`SaeSZZ a[OZZ`]c\RV]ZSa]\OP]fU`ObS`T]`OQ]O`aS :O`USaOZORP]eZ
sandy texture. B]\Ua]`aOZORaS`dS`a
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T`][eVWbSaO\ReWQVP`SOR 1 /TbS`POYW\UbVSg`S Dont skip the anchoviesBVSgUWdSbVSR`SaaW\U
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22 1==94@3A6 A>@7<5 %


garlic-butter croutons
classic caesar salad Yields about 4 cups
Leftover dressing is great on pasta MAKE THE DRESSING
4 large slices white sandwich bread, cut
or potato salad, or brushed on grilled In a liquid measuring cup, combine the canola into - to 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
chicken or fish. Serves 4 to 6 and olive oils. Put the remaining dressing
3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter
ingredients except the Parmigiano in a
FOR THE DRESSING 2 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
blender and blend until thoroughly com-
cup canola oil Kosher salt
bined. With the motor running on medium
cup extra-virgin olive oil high, carefully pour in the oils in a slow, steady Position a rack in the center of the oven
6 oil-packed anchovies stream. The dressing will emulsify as soon as and heat the oven to 350F.
4 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeled all of the oil is incorporated. Stop the motor, Put the bread cubes on a large rimmed
1 large egg yolk add the Parmigiano, and quickly blend to baking sheet. Melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice combine. (You can store the dressing, tightly saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the
2 tsp. Dijon mustard covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.) garlic, mashing it gently with the back of a
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest wooden spoon, and raise the heat to medium.
MAKE THE SALAD
tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is
Cut the Parmigiano into small cubes and pulse
fragrant (the garlic may start to brown around
tsp. kosher salt it in a small food processor until coarsely grat-
the edges), 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the
tsp. freshly ground black pepper ed to the consistency of large pieces of sand
heat and discard the garlic. Drizzle the butter
1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (not too fine). Alternatively, grate the cheese
over the bread cubes. Toss with your hands
( cup) on the small round holes of a box grater.
until the cubes are evenly coated. (Dont
Put the lettuce in a large salad bowl. Drizzle
FOR THE SALAD worry if some crumble.) Spread them in a
a scant 13 cup of the dressing over the lettuce
2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano single layer and sprinkle with tsp. salt. Bake
and toss well. Taste and add more dressing
1 large head romaine lettuce (about 1 lb., until the croutons are a deep golden brown,
if necessary, a teaspoon or so at a time, until
6 oz.), trimmed, quartered lengthwise, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool completely. (You
then cut crosswise into 1- to 1-inch the leaves are nicely dressed. Add cup of
can store the croutons in an airtight container
strips (12 to 13 cups), washed and dried the Parmigiano and toss well. Taste a leaf and
for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 3 weeks.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground add more cheese if you like or pass more at
black pepper the table. Season to taste with salt and pep- Note: This recipe contains a raw egg. If thats
1 recipe Garlic-Butter Croutons (at right) per. Add the croutons, toss well, and serve. a concern, use a pasteurized egg.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 23
SEASONAL
H ER BS
Cook with springs fragrant bounty in suppers, snacks, and more.

a fresh bunch of delicate mint, mild and avoid those that are wilted or yellowing.
chives, or licoricey tarragon provides the Give them a snifthere should be no moldy
perfect cooks inspiration. Here, youll learn odor. Store wrapped loosely in a damp paper
about six favorite spring herbs, including towel in a container with a tight-itting lid.
how to cook with and pair them. Most fresh herbs will last up to a week, so use
A few tips before you start: When shopping, them as soon as you can to keep them bright,
look for herbs that are crisp and aromatic, fresh, and fragrant.

24 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


DILL
Anethum graveolens. Tender,
feathery, blue-green fronds
branching off a centralstem.

FLAVORS
Mellow parsley with warm spices.

COVER RECIPE HANDLING TIPS


Far less assertive than dill seed.
spring vegetables with garlic dill sauce Useliberally. Pick off whole fronds
or roughly chop to add at the
Tender spring vegetables are beautifully finished with a bright, flavorful herb sauce end of cooking or touse in
in this side dish. Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as a side cold dishes.

2 lbs. baby artichokes, outer until the heart is just easily pierced, about
leaves removed, sliced in half GOOD IN OR WITH
5 minutes, then transfer to the ice bath. Most closely associated with
and put in a lemon water bath
Blanch the carrots until just tender, 2 to 3 min- Scandinavian and Eastern Euro-
8 oz. baby carrots, sliced in half lengthwise,
utes, then transfer to the ice bath. Blanch the pean cooking. Add to cold potato
then sliced in half on the diagonal
snap peas and asparagus together until crisp salads, cucumbers, and deviled
8 oz. snap peas, trimmed eggs as well as hot potato soups,
tender, 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer to the steamed beets or beet soups,
1 lb. medium asparagus, cut into 2-inch
pieces on the diagonal, about 8 oz. ice bath. Drain the vegetables in a colander omelets, and dishes enriched
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
and rinse with cold water until all the ice has with sour cream. Pair with deli-
melted or can be removed. Pat the vegetables cate meats like veal or chicken
2 Tbs. olive oil and with mild-flavored fish. Use
dry with a paper towel.
1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic in baked goods, including breads
Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium and biscuits.
1 Tbs. chopped fresh dill; more for garnish
heat, add the butter and oil and heat until the
Kosher salt and freshly
butter has melted. Add the garlic and cook
ground black pepper
until it is golden, about 1 minute. Add the dill,
cup peppadew peppers, sliced
into thin rings, about 2 oz. tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper and whisk until
thoroughly combined. Add the blanched
cup queen manzanilla olives, sliced
into rings, about 1 oz. vegetables, the peppers, olives, and capers
1 Tbs. non-pareil capers, rinsed and toss to coat. Transfer to a warm platter
Lemon wedges, to serve
and garnish with additional dill and lemon
wedges.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Pre-
pare a large ice bath. Blanch the artichokes

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 25
shrimp and cannellini salad with tarragon vinaigrette
To make this light entre feel a little heartier, serve it with some grilled bread or wedges of toasted pita.
Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as an appetizer
2 Tbs. sherry vinegar 12 jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 count), peeled and pepper. Heat a grill pan over high heat, then
1 Tbs. Dijon mustard deveined
cook the shrimp until opaque throughout,
1 Tbs. minced fresh tarragon; more 1 medium head red-leaf lettuce (or a lettuce 3 to 4 minutes per side.
whole leaves for garnish mix), washed, dried, and torn into bite-size
pieces (about 8 cups) Toss the lettuce with half of the remaining
1 tsp. minced garlic vinaigrette (add more to taste). For individual
Kosher salt and freshly ground In a medium bowl, mix the sherry vinegar with servings, portion the lettuce among the
black pepper the mustard, tarragon, garlic, and tsp. each serving plates. Spoon the beans on top of the
5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in 4 Tbs. of greens and top each salad with two or three
1 15- or 16-oz. can cannellini the oil. shrimp, depending on how many servings
beans, rinsed and drained In a large bowl, combine the beans, tomato, youre making. To serve buffet style, arrange
1 medium ripe tomato, cut into and shallot. Add 3 Tbs. of the vinaigrette and a layer of lettuce, the beans, and then the
medium dice (about 1 cup) stir gently to combine. shrimp. Sprinkle with tarragon leaves and
1 large shallot, sliced thinly Toss the shrimp with the remaining 1 Tbs. pepper. Serve immediately.
into rings (about cup)
oil and season with salt and a few grinds of

26 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


TARRAGON
Artemisia dracunculus sativa.
Large, shiny, toothed dark green
leaves resembling itsdaisy
relative. Most common cooking
variety: French tarragon.
Another variety: Russian
tarragon (not recommended).

FLAVORS
Sweet and spicy licorice.

HANDLING TIPS
Flavors can dominate. Use
judiciously. Chop roughly or
finely and add toward end
of cooking.

GOOD IN OR WITH
Popular as an herbal vinegar
for marinades and vinaigrettes.
Use in French dishes such as
barnaise sauce and chicken
with tarragon. Also a great
partner for lobster, eggs, and
springv egetables.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 27
CILANTRO
Coriandrum sativum. Thin,
rounded, toothed bright green
leaves resembling flat-leaf
parsley. Also called fresh
coriander or Chinese parsley.
cilantro-pepita hummus
FLAVORS This fluffy dip has a creamy, nutty flavor unlike anything youll find in a grocery
Tangy with citrus notes. store. Serve with pita, cucumbers, peppers, or carrots. Serves 8 to 10; makes 2 cups
8 oz. dried chickpeas (about 1 cups) chickpeas with your fingers to help dislodge
HANDLING TIPS
Use liberally. Chop roughly 1 tsp. baking soda the skins. Stir with a skimmer or slotted
or use whole sprigs and add 2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, smashed spoon, and remove the skins as they rise to
just before serving. Use whole and peeled the surface. Drain well. Reserve 2 Tbs. of the
stems to flavor stocks and, cup tahini
when available, roots for chickpeas, and transfer the rest, including
curry paste. Flavor pales cup fresh lemon juice; more to taste the garlic, to a food processor. Pure until the
when heated. 1 tsp. fine sea salt; more to taste mixture balls up.
cup extra-virgin olive oil With the machine running, add the tahini,
GOOD IN OR WITH cup roasted pepitas lemon juice, salt, and chickpea cooking liquid
Use as acooling, zesty coun- 2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro through the feed tube. Scrape down the
terpoint to the spice in Asian, sides, and pure until very smooth. Transfer
Smoked paprika for garnish
Latin American, and Indian to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate at least
dishes. Great with chile and Soak the chickpeas in 8 cups cold water in
lime. Adds brightness to fresh 30 minutes and up to 3 days. The hummus
fruit or tomato salsas. Pure
the refrigerator for at least 8 hours and up to thickens and the flavors develop as it sits.
with garlic and oil, like a pesto, 24 hours. Drain. Just before serving, season to taste with
to serve with grilled shrimp or In a large, heavy-duty pot, cook the more salt and lemon juice, if necessary.
flank steak. chickpeas and baking soda over medium Use the back of a spoon to create a well on
heat, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add 8 cups the surface of the hummus and drizzle on
fresh cold water and the garlic and bring to the olive oil. Scatter the pepitas, reserved
a boil. Immediately reduce the heat to a chickpeas, cilantro, and paprika over the top,
simmer and cook until the chickpeas are very and serve.
tender throughout, about 1 hour. Reserve
cup of the cooking liquid, and then drain
the chickpeas. MAKE AHEAD
Transfer the chickpeas to a large bowl, The hummus can be made up to 3 days
and cover with cold water. Gently agitate the ahead; garnish just before serving.

28 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


spring vegetable and potato frittata
This frittata is a great make-ahead dinner. Let it cool to room temperature and
refrigerate until ready to use. It can be warmed in the microwave or served at room
temperature. Serves 4
8 large eggs 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a bowl with a
cup grated Parmigiano- slotted spoon. Reduce the heat to medium.
Reggiano (about oz.) If the pan is dry, add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil.
3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat- Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently,
leaf parsley until it softens and begins to brown, 4 to
Kosher salt and freshly ground 5 minutes. Stir in the asparagus, garlic,
black pepper
tsp. salt and 18 tsp. pepper. Cook, stirring
18 tsp. cayenne frequently, until the asparagus is bright green
2 to 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Lower the
1 medium Yukon Gold potato heat to medium low and add the egg mixture
(about lb.), scrubbed and
and the potatoes, stirring until the ingredients
cut into -inch dice (about 1 cups)
are combined, 10 to 15 seconds. Add the
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
Cheddar and stir until well distributed. Cook
lb. medium-thick asparagus, trimmed and
without stirring until the eggs have almost
PARSLEY cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
3 cloves garlic, minced
set, 10 to 12 minutes. (The center may still be
Petroselinum crispum. Vivid green loose but should be bubbling a little; the sides
toothed leaf clusters branching 6 oz. shredded sharp Cheddar (about
1 lightly packed cups) should be set.) Meanwhile, position an oven
off a fibrous stem. Most common
cooking varieties: Italian flat-leaf rack 6 inches from the broiler element and
parsley and curlyparsley. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, Parmigiano, heat the broiler to high.
parsley, tsp. salt, 18 tsp. pepper, and the Transfer the skillet to the oven and broil
cayenne. until the eggs have set completely and the top
FLAVORS Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch ovenproof
Subtle, fresh celery and mild of the frittata is golden brown, 1 to 3 minutes.
pepper. nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add Let rest for 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting
the potato and tsp. salt and cook, stirring board, cut into four wedges, and serve.
occasionally, until browned on several sides,
HANDLING TIPS
Versatile and widely comple-
mentary. Use generously. Chop
leaves roughly or finely and add
toward the end of cooking or use
uncooked. Save stems for stock.
Keeps its color well so can be
chopped ahead.

GOOD IN OR WITH
A centerpiece of Middle Eastern
tabbouleh, French persillade,
and Italian gremolata. Use as an
all-purpose herb to add vibrancy to
soups, sauted vegetables, meats,
and seafood. Use stems in bouquet
garni for stocks, poaching liquids,
and braises. Add leaves whole
to salads or chopped as a fresh
garnish to many dishes.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 29
MINT
Mentha spicata. Oval,
toothed and wrinkled bright
green leaves. Other mint
varieties: peppermint, apple
mint, chocolate mint, pine-
apple mint.

FLAVORS
Vibrant, cooling, andsweet.

HANDLING TIPS
Use liberally. Chop roughly or
finely, or cut into thin ribbons
and add toward the end of
cooking or use raw.

GOOD IN OR WITH
Add the standard mint sold for
pea and mint soup with lemon cream
cooking to an array of savory You can serve this soup hot or cold. Its flavor is brighter if you
dishes, from pasta to chutney;
use to give a Mideastern or
use very fresh, young peas. The starchiness of mature peas
Indian accent. Traditionally can give the soup a split-pea flavor, so if you can find only
used with lamb. Highlight fresh older peas, use frozen instead. Serves 4 to 6
peas, new potatoes, and fruit
salads. Infuse whole leaves in 2 Tbs. unsalted butter Finely grated zest of one-half
cream or milk for crme medium lemon
cup coarsely chopped
anglaise and chocolates; shallots
steep in boiling water to make Melt the butter in a 3- to 4-quart
refreshing tea. Use sprigs as 1 tsp. minced garlic saucepan over medium heat.
decoration on dessert plates. 4 cups fresh shelled peas Add the shallots and garlic and
(3 to 4 lb. unshelled) or
cook, stirring frequently, until
frozen peas
both are very soft, 6 to 8 minutes.
2 cups lower-salt chicken or
vegetable broth They shouldnt brown. If theyre
cooking too fast, reduce the heat
cup chopped fresh mint
to medium low.
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper Add the peas, broth, half
Pinch of granulated sugar
of the mint, and 2 cups water.
(optional) Season generously with salt and
cup heavy cream pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce
the heat to medium low, and

30 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


jasmine rice with
toasted pine nuts
and chives
Buttery, toasty pine nuts add a
hit of richness to your basic rice
pilaf. Serve this simple side with
grilled chicken or seared scal-
lops. Serves 4
1 cup jasmine rice
Kosher salt
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
cup pine nuts
2 Tbs. chopped chives
2 tsp. lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper

Cook the rice according to package


directions with a pinch of salt. Mean-
while, melt the butter in a small skillet
over medium heat. Add the pine
nuts and cook until the butter and
nuts are browned, about 3 minutes. CHIVES
Combine with the rice and add the Allium schoenoprasum.
chives and lemon juice. Season to Long, narrow, hollow bright
green leaves; with edible pink
taste with salt and pepper.
bud clusters when in bloom.

FLAVORS
Mild, fresh onion.

HANDLING TIPS
Use liberally. Finely chop,
snip, or when available, sepa-
rate flower buds, and add
just before serving. Turns
simmer vigorously until the peas drab green when heated.
are very tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
In batches, pure the soup in a GOOD IN OR WITH
blender until smooth. Season to A pleasantly mild alterna-
taste with salt and pepper. If the tive to raw onion. Pair with
peas arent very sweet, stir in potatoes, eggs, cheese,
the sugar. and cream. Use to garnish
soups, salads, and sauted
Pour the heavy cream into a vegetables, or smear into
medium bowl and whip it to soft softened butter for corn on
peaks with a whisk. Fold in the the cob.
lemon zest and season to taste
with salt and pepper.
Ladle the soup into serving
bowls and top with a generous
spoonful of the lemon cream.
Scatter the remaining chopped
mint over the soup and serve.
If you choose to serve the soup
cold, chill it in the fridge, but
take it out 15 minutes before
you serve. Adjust the seasoning
if necessary before serving.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 31
Vegetables,
STEAMED
& SAUCED
Five easy sauces dress up everything from
baby artichokes to sugar snap peas.
mention steamed vegetables and Dont overload the steamer. Arrange the
the irst thing that pops into many peoples vegetables in a loose, shallow layer so the
minds is bland, boring diet food. We steam can cook them evenly.
couldnt disagree more. Simple, yes. But Salt early. Sprinkling kosher salt on
boring? Deinitely not. Steaming, one the vegetables right ater they go into the
of the speediest cooking methods, is an steamer jump-starts the process of lavor
excellent way to reveal the pure lavor release. You can salt later, too, but adding a
of just about any vegetable. Drizzle on a little salt early on is a good practice.
quick, complementary sauce, and they Pay attention. he fatal law of many
really sing. steamed vegetable dishes is improper done-
As youll ind in the following sauces, ness. heyre too sot or too crisp, whereas
spices and acidic ingredients like lemon ideally they should be neither mushy nor
juice and vinegar add brightness, while rich crunchy but perfectly tender. Hitting that
ingredients like cream, cheese, bacon, and sweet spot is easier said than done, but its
tasty oils give the vegetables a fuller lavor. only a matter of attention and timing. So
Here are a few pointers to keep in mind dont wander far when the vegetables are in
as you steam: the steamerthe cooking happens quickly.

lemony brown-butter sauce with chives


For the freshest flavor, you wont add the chives to the sauce. Instead, youll pair with
sprinkle them directly on the food. Yields about 6 Tbs., enough for 1 to 1 lb. /a^O`OUca
steamed vegetables 0OPgO`bWQV]YSa
5`SS\PSO\a
4 Tbs. unsalted butter 3 to 5 minutes. As soon as the butter 0`caaSZaa^`]cba
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice AcUO`a\O^^SOa
is brown, take the pan off the heat and To prep and cook,
Kosher salt and freshly ground carefully pour in the lemon juice. Swirl to see the chart on
black pepper combine. Season with tsp. salt and 18 tsp. p. 35.
2 Tbs. thinly sliced chives pepper, or to taste.
In a small (1-quart) saucepan, melt the Drizzle the sauce over steamed
butter over medium heat. Cook the but- vegetables and sprinkle with the chives.
ter, whisking constantly, just until the milk
solids turn a nutty brown color, about

32 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


How to steam vegetables

Trim and cut your vegetable as directed in the


chart on p. 35. Meanwhile, bring an inch or so of
water to a boil over high heat in a pot fit with a
steamer insert.

Put the vegetables in the steamer, sprinkle


with kosher salt, cover tightly, and steam until
just tender. The vegetables should be neither
crisp nor soft but exactly in between. Bite into a
piece to check.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 33
pair with
0`]QQ]ZW\W
0`]QQ]ZW
1O``]ba
1OcZWTZ]eS`
0`caaSZaa^`]cba
peppercorn-parmesan To prep and cook,
see the chart on
cream sauce the facing page.

Since this is basically a peppery Alfredo sauce, its also good on pasta.
The flavor depends on the cheese and the pepper, so be sure to use real, freshly
grated Parmigiano and freshly ground black pepper. Yields about cup, enough for 1 to 1 lb. steamed vegetables
cup heavy cream In a small (1-quart) saucepan, combine the heat and immediately add the cup finely
cup whole milk cream, milk, and egg yolk. Whisk to blend grated Parmigiano. Stir until the cheese is
1 large egg yolk thoroughly. mostly melted. Season with tsp. salt and 38
cup freshly and finely grated Place the saucepan over medium-low tsp. pepper, or to taste.
Parmigiano-Reggiano heat and cook, stirring constantly with a Drizzle the sauce over steamed
Kosher salt and freshly ground wooden spoon, until the sauce is hot and vegetables and sprinkle with the coarsely
black pepper steamy and thickens slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. grated cheese, if using.
1 Tbs. coarsely grated Parmigiano- Dont let the sauce bubble at all or it may
Reggiano for garnish (optional)
become a little lumpy. Remove from the

34 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


All the vegetables fit to steam
(or at least many of them)
vegetable how to steam-
prepare ing time
Artichokes, Remove outer 5 to 6
baby leaves and trim minutes
abS[1cbbVS
artichoke in half
ZS\UbVeWaS
Asparagus Trim tough ends 4 to 6
minutes

1O``]ba Peel and slice 6 to 8


into -inch-thick minutes
rounds

pair with 1OcZWTZ]eS` 1]`SO\RQcbW\b] 4 to 5


5`SS\PSO\a
1-inch florets minutes
>]bOb]Sa
1O``]ba
0`]QQ]ZW
1OcZWTZ]eS`
To prep and cook, 0`]QQ]ZW 1cbb]^aW\b] 3 to 4
see the chart at Q`]e\a 1-inch florets, minutes
right. stems inch
thick
lemony tahini sauce
Look for tahini in cans or jars on supermarket 0`]QQ]ZW\W Trim the ends 5 to 6
shelves near the peanut butter or in the ethnic or minutes
natural foods section. Yields about 6 Tbs., enough for
1 to 1 lb. steamed vegetables
1 medium clove garlic
Kosher salt 0`caaSZa Trim bottom and 5 to 6
sprouts halve through minutes
3 Tbs. tahini (ground sesame seed paste)
the base
3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
Pinch of ground cumin
2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds for garnish (optional)
5`SS\PSO\a Trim stem ends 3 to 5
Peel the garlic clove and chop it finely. Sprinkle the
minutes
chopped garlic with a pinch of salt and then use the flat
side of your knife to repeatedly scrape the garlic against
the cutting board, mashing it into a paste. Transfer the gar-
lic paste to a small bowl and add the tahini. Whisk to blend.
Potatoes, baby Scrub and 10 to 15
Gradually whisk in the lemon juice; at first the tahini will
or fingerling quarter (halve minutes
thicken, but as you add more and more lemon juice, it will fingerlings
begin to loosen. Once all of the lemon juice is added, whisk ZS\UbVeWaS
in water Tbs. at a time until you reach the consistency of
a creamy sauce. Stir in the cumin and more salt to taste.
Sugar snap Rinse and 5 to 6
Drizzle the sauce over steamed vegetables and sprinkle
peas remove stem end minutes
with the sesame seeds, if using. and string

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 35
balsamic-bacon vinaigrette sauce curry-yogurt
The bold flavors of this vinaigrette result in a standout side.
Yields about 6 Tbs., enough for 1 to 1 lb. steamed vegetables
sauce
This delicious, spiced sauce
2 slices bacon, cut into shallot to the bacon fat and has an inflection of Indian
-inch dice
cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors. You can make it an
1 small shallot, minced softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add hour or so ahead and reheat
1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar 1 Tbs. of the vinegar and scrape it gently before drizzling on
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice the bottom of the pan with a the vegetables. Yields cup,
tsp. Dijon mustard spoon to dissolve the browned enough for 1 to 1 lb. steamed
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil bits stuck to the pan bottom. Off vegetables
Kosher salt and freshly the heat, stir in the remaining
ground black pepper cup plain yogurt, preferably
Tbs. vinegar, the lemon juice, whole milk
In a small (1-quart) saucepan and the mustard. Gradually whisk
1 tsp. cornstarch
over medium heat, cook the in the olive oil (dont worry if the
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
bacon, stirring occasionally, sauce doesnt emulsify). Season
13 cup minced yellow onion
pair with
until crisp and golden, about with tsp. salt and 18 tsp. pepper, (about half a small onion) 1O``]ba
or to taste. 1OcZWTZ]eS`
5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, Kosher salt >]bOb]Sa
transfer the bacon to a dish lined Drizzle the sauce over
1 tsp. minced garlic 5`SS\PSO\a
with paper towels, leaving the steamed vegetables and sprinkle To prep and cook,
1 tsp. minced fresh ginger
bacon fat in the pan. Add the with the cooked bacon bits. see the chart on
tsp. curry powder
p. 35.
tsp. ground cumin
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh
pair with cilantro for garnish (optional)
0`]QQ]ZW In a small bowl, stir together the
0`caaSZaa^`]cba
0`]QQ]ZW\W yogurt and cornstarch until well
>]bOb]Sa blended.
5`SS\PSO\a In a small (1-quart) saucepan,
To prep and cook, melt the butter over medium
see the chart on
p. 35.
heat. Add the onion, sprinkle with
a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring
frequently, until softened, 4 to
5 minutes. Add the garlic and
ginger and cook, stirring fre-
quently, until just golden brown,
4 to 5 minutes more (reduce the
heat if the onion seems to be
burning rather than browning).
Add the curry powder and
cumin and cook, stirring, 15 to
20 seconds. Reduce the heat
to medium low, add the yogurt
mixture, and stir until slightly
thickened, about 1 minute.
Season with tsp. each salt
and pepper, or to taste.
Drizzle the sauce over
steamed vegetables and
sprinkle with the cilantro, if using.

36 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


These sauces also
work great on pasta,
meat, and fish. You
can make the sauces
an hour or so ahead;
reheat if necessary
before drizzling
on the steamed
vegetables.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 37
Easy
Relaxthis fresh, flavorful menu is
practically stress-free. Supper
happily, you dont need a lot of time to spread can be made a couple of days ahead or of raspberries (frozen are perfect) and the
pull together a satisfying evening of friends, at the last minute. subtraction of the need to spread and stack all
family, and great food. he menu here is very Next is a main-dish salad of greens, herbs, those cookies. In this version, you just crunch
relaxedno individual appetizers, a main dish and roasted chicken. he only part of this dish up the cookies and fold them into raspberry-
thats all in one bowland its full of the fresh that requires fussing is the dressing, which is swirled whipped cream. To serve, you scoop
spring lavors that were all craving about now, a savory-citrusy mix of lemon and some of out spoonfuls as you would with a mousse.
yet it still has some substance to counteract the chicken pan drippings. he chicken and If you have a couple of hours before your
any lingering chill of winter. vegetables should be served slightly warm but friends are coming over, you can easily concoct
To start, youll make an easy spread of goat not hot, so theres no rush to the table with this this entire menu. But if you plan ahead a bit,
cheese with lots of fresh herbs, lemon zest, dish. Pair the salad with a warm, crusty loaf of you can get the irst course and dessert in-
olive oil, and a dash of white wine for tang. garlic-Parmesan bread, and dinner is served. ished a day ahead, leaving just the salad
Your friends just want to hang out in the Dessert is a fun and delicious recipe thats so to make beforeor asyour guests arrive.
kitchen with you anyway, so set a platter of dead-easy itll take you only a few minutes to And thats a reality anyone can face, relaxed
this cheese on the counter along with good pull of. Its a rif on the Famous Chocolate and refreshed.
crackers and lots of raw vegetables. he cheese Wafer Refrigerator Roll, with the addition
menu
Serves 6

Goat cheese spread with


herbs and olive oil

Garlic-parmesan bread

Salad of roast chicken and


spring vegetables with
lemony dressing

Chocolate-raspberry
cookies and cream

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 39
40 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017
real baby carrots
Bagged stubby carrot nubbins may be called baby
carrots, but theyre actually mature carrots that have
been whittled down to bite-size pieces. True baby
carrots are immature and look like the ones pictured
above. Real baby carrots are tender and juicy; theyre
usually just 4 to 5 inches long and are generally sold in
bunches, with their tops on.

salad of roast chicken and spring vegetables with lemony dressing


The chicken and vegetables should be served slightly warm but not hot. Serves 6
6 medium bone-in, skin-on of the chicken breasts. Roast skin-side up in oil to balance the acidity of the lemon juice.
chicken breast halves the oven on the upper rack until the juices run Season to taste with salt and pepper. You
cup extra-virgin olive oil clear (an instant-read thermometer should should have about cup dressing.
Kosher salt and freshly register 165F), 35 to 45 minutes. When the chicken is cool enough to handle
ground black pepper Meanwhile, put the asparagus in a medium but still quite warm, slide your fingers between
1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves baking dish (9x13-inch, or one in which theyll the meat and the bones and pull the meat
1 lb. asparagus, woody ends trimmed fit in a single, uncrowded layer). Drizzle on and skin away in one piece (the tenderloin
1 lb. trimmed baby carrots (or larger enough olive oil to coat, season with salt and may come off in a separate piece). Cut each
carrots, peeled, halved crosswise, and pepper, and toss. Arrange in a single layer. In a breast (and tenderloin) into about 6 slices on
thick halves split lengthwise)
separate dish, do the same with the carrots. the diagonal, keeping them intact so you can
cup fresh lemon juice; more
Roast the vegetables on the lower rack along fan them out on the salad later.
if needed
with the chicken until theyre tender, 12 to Put the greens, fennel, and fresh herb
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
16 minutes for the asparagus and 20 to sprigs into a large bowl. Toss with the
tsp. Dijon mustard
30 minutes for the carrots. The carrots can remaining 1 Tbs. of lemon juice and about
6 cups salad greens (such as bibb
be roasted very deeply, but take care not 2 Tbs. of olive oil, adding more if needed to
lettuce torn into pieces with some
sliced radicchio added for color) to over-roast the asparagus or theyll turn lightly coat the salad. Season with salt and
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, cut mushy. When the vegetables are done, set pepper to taste.
in half lengthwise, cored, and sliced them aside. On six large plates or a large platter,
crosswise as finely as possible When the chicken is done, transfer the arrange a bed of the greens. On each plate,
cup fresh flat parsley leaves breasts to a platter and tent with foil. Pour or alternating on the platter, lay a fan of
cup fresh mint leaves (torn into any juices and fat from the roasting pan into chicken meat on one side, a few spears of
bite-size pieces if large) a small bowl (dont worry if there isnt much). asparagus on another side, and some carrots
13 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted Put the roasting pan on a burner over medium on another. Drizzle the dressing over the meat
Thin shavings Parmigiano-Reggiano heat. Add 3 Tbs. of the lemon juice to the pan and vegetables. Sprinkle with the pine nuts
(use a vegetable peeler) and, using a wooden spoon or spatula, quickly and top with the Parmigiano shavings. Serve
Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of scrape up all the browned juices, dissolving immediately.
the oven. Heat the oven to 400F. them in the lemon. Pour this into the bowl
Arrange the chicken in a shallow, flame- with the cooking juices. Once the chicken has
proof roasting pan, rub each breast with olive rested for about 10 minutes, uncover and add
oil, and season both sides generously with any accumulated juices to the bowl. Whisk in
salt and pepper. Sprinkle the thyme on top the lemon zest, mustard, and enough olive

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 41
timeline
This timeline breaks down each recipe into its
make-ahead components, but dont worry if you
cant get to all of them ahead of time. You could
actually make everything (except the dessert,
which benefits from an overnight chill) in the
couple of hours before your guests arrive.

THE DAY BEFORE


AV]^T]`OZZU`]QS`WSa)^cbeVWbSeW\SW\T`WRUS
;OYSQVSSaSa^`SOREOaVb][Ob]SaEOaVO\Rb`W[
celery and refrigerate in an airtight container.
;OYSPcbbS`>O`[SaO\[Wfbc`ST]`UO`ZWQP`SOR)
refrigerate.
:WUVbZgb]Oab^W\S\cbaT]`aOZOR

THE NIGHT BEFORE


;OYSbVSQ]]YWSO\RQ`SO[RSaaS`b)`ST`WUS`ObS

A COUPLE OF HOURS AHEAD


>`S^QVWQYS\Oa^O`OUcaO\RQO``]baO\R^cbbVS[W\
their own baking dishes.
@S[]dSPcbbS`>O`[SaO\[Wfbc`ST`][T`WRUSb]
soften. Butter bread and wrap in foil.
EOaVU`SS\aO\RVS`PaT]`aOZOR

AN HOUR BEFORE GUESTS ARRIVE


6SOb]dS\@]OabQVWQYS\/TbS`b]#[W\cbSa
start roasting asparagus and carrots, too.
AVOdS>O`[WUWO\]@SUUWO\]O\R^`S^O`STS\\SZT]`
salad. Zest and juice lemon for dressing.
@S[]dSQVWQYS\O\RdSUSbOPZSaT`][]dS\eVS\
R]\S)ZSbQVWQYS\`SabW\OeO`[^ZOQS7\Q`SOaS]dS\
bS[^S`Obc`Sb]" #4

AS GUESTS ARRIVE
>]c`eW\S]`]bVS`R`W\Ya
C\[]ZRQVSSaSa^`SOR]\b]O^ZObbS`5O`\WaVeWbV
]WZO\R`SaS`dSRhSabO\RVS`Pa/``O\USdSUSbOPZSa
around the cheese, and set out for everyone to serve
themselves.
>cbUO`ZWQP`SORW\]dS\

AS GUESTS NIBBLE THE APPETIZER


;OYSbVSZS[]\gR`SaaW\UB]aaaOZORU`SS\aeWbV
oil and lemon juice, and compose the individual
salads. Dress salads, garnish, and serve, along with
garlic bread.

AFTER THE SALAD


0`SOYOeOgT`][bVSbOPZSb]abO`bbVSQ]TTSS]`
bSOAQ]]^Q]]YWSaO\RQ`SO[W\b]W\RWdWRcOZP]eZa
decorate with a whole chocolate wafer and drizzle on
`Oa^PS``gaOcQSAS`dS

42 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


shopping list
FRESH PRODUCE
$Qc^aaOZORU`SS\a
ZPOa^O`OUca
ZPb`W[[SRPOPgQO``]ba
[SRWc[TS\\SZPcZP
^W\bQVS``gb][Ob]Sa
QSZS`gVSO`b
 b]!ZS[]\a
 Pc\QVSaT`SaVVS`PaQV]]aS
]TbVST]ZZ]eW\U(^O`aZSgQVWdSa
bO``OU]\RWZZ
Pc\QVT`SaVbVg[SBPa]TZSOdSa
ZO`USPc\QVTZObZSOT^O`aZSgQc^
ZSOdSa
garlic-parmesan bread ZO`USPc\QVT`SaV[W\bQc^
This easy garlic and cheese mixture ZSOdSaO\RUO`\WaV
adds the right amount of flavor to
artisan breads. Serves 6 MEAT, EGGS & DAIRY
8 Tbs. ( cup) salted butter, softened $[SRWc[P]\SW\aYW\]\QVWQYS\
cup lightly packed finely grated P`SOabVOZdSa
Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil OTHER GROCERIES
2 large cloves garlic, very finely
minced or grated on a rasp-style grater
^OQYOUSU]]RQ`OQYS`a]`Z]OT]T
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
eOZ\cbP`SOR
Kosher salt and freshly ground [SRWc[Z]OTO`bWaO\P`SOReWbVO
black pepper bWUVbQ`c[P
1 medium loaf artisan-style bread ^OQYOUS4O[]ca1V]Q]ZObSEOTS`
with a tight crumb
bVW\QV]Q]ZObSQ]]YWSa
!Qc^aOP]cb ]hT`]hS\
Heat the oven to 425F.
`Oa^PS``WSa
In a food processor or a large bowl,
combine the butter, Parmigiano, oil, garlic, ^OQYOUS^W\S\cbaQc^
lemon zest, tsp. salt, and 18 tsp. pepper. P]bbZSR`geVWbSeW\S BPa
Pulse a few times to blend but dont over- &]hOP]cbQc^U]ObQVSSaS
process or the butter might separate. If PZ]QY>O`[WUWO\]@SUUWO\]T]`
mixing by hand, mash together with a fork
aVOdW\UO\RU`ObW\U
or a wooden spoon.
Slice the bread 1 inch thick, cutting almost QO`b]\VSOdgQ`SO[ObZSOabOQc^
but not all the way through the bottom crust Qc^Q`|[ST`OQVS
so its easy to pull apart. Spread a light, even
coating of the butter mixture on both sides of PANTRY STAPLES
each slice of bread. (You may not need all the
Qc^Sfb`OdW`UW\]ZWdS]WZ
butter; refrigerate any leftover for up to
a week or freeze for up to three months.)
9]aVS`aOZbO\RPZOQY^S^^S`
Wrap the bread in foil and put the loaf on a VSORUO`ZWQ
baking sheet to catch any butter that runs ba^2WX]\[cabO`R
out. Heat in the oven for about 15 minutes, &BPaabWQYaOZbSRPcbbS`
then open the top of the foil to slightly crisp #BPaU`O\cZObSRacUO`
the top of the loaf, about 5 more minutes.
Serve while hot.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 43
goat cheese spread with herbs and olive oil
Elevate plain goat cheese with a zesty mixture of herbs, wine, and citrus. Yields about 1 cups; serves 6
8 oz. goat cheese (about 1 cup) thick, add 1 or 2 Tbs. more cream and pulse again. Season
2 Tbs. heavy cream; more if needed with salt and pepper, pulse again, and taste, adjusting the
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for drizzling seasoning as necessary. Reserve 1 tsp. of the herbs for
2 Tbs. dry white wine sprinkling, and add the rest to the processor. Add 2 tsp. of
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper the lemon zest. Pulse once more to blend.
2 Tbs. chopped fresh herbs (choose at least two from the Line a small (about 1-cup) round bowl or cup with
following: parsley, chives, tarragon, dill) a sheet of plastic wrap and fill with the cheese mixture.
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.
Good crackers or slices of walnut bread To serve, invert the bowl onto a serving platter and
About 1 pint cherry tomatoes peel off the plastic. With the back of a spoon, level off the
1 celery heart, cut into sticks top of the cheese and make a small depression. Drizzle
olive oil over the top. Sprinkle with the reserved herbs
Put the goat cheese, cream, olive oil, and wine in a food and lemon zest. Arrange the crackers or bread slices,
processor (or mix in a bowl with a wooden spoon). Pulse tomatoes, and celery around the cheese and let guests
just to blend. The mixture should be spreadable; if its too serve themselves.

44 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


chocolate-raspberry cookies and cream
This is best with both crme frache and tiny pinch of salt. Taste and add more sugar not too small. Fold the cookies into the cream.
heavy cream, but you can use all cream or lemon if needed. The sauce should be thin Cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap
if thats easier. Yields 2 cups cream and enough to drizzle. If it seems too thick, add a onto the surface of the cream, and chill until
cup sauce; serves 6 few drops of water. Cover and refrigerate. the cookie pieces are thoroughly softened, at
In a medium bowl, combine the cream, least 2 hours and preferably overnight.
3 cups frozen raspberries the crme frache, and the remaining 1 Tbs. To serve, use an ice cream scoop or large
(about 12 oz.), thawed
sugar and whip with a hand mixer until the spoon to scoop out a mound of cookies and
5 Tbs. granulated sugar; more if needed
mixture forms firm, thick peaks. Stir the cream into a small bowl or onto a plate. Drizzle
Few drops of fresh lemon juice mashed berries and sugar and lightly fold a ribbon of raspberry sauce around the plate,
Kosher salt into the cream mixture with a rubber spatula, tuck a cookie into the cream, and decorate
23 cup heavy cream leaving streaks. with a mint sprig.
13 cup crme frache Reserve 6 of the cookies for decoration
21 Famous Chocolate Wafer and crunch up the rest into uneven pieces
thin chocolate cookies
6 cute mint sprigs

Put 1 cup of the raspberries in a small bowl,


sprinkle with 2 Tbs. of the sugar, mash with a
fork, and let sit a few minutes.
Meanwhile, put the remaining 2 cups
berries and another 2 Tbs. sugar in a food
processor (or blender) and process until
the berries form a pure. Strain through a
fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl, pressing
with a rubber spatula to get the seeds out.
Squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice and a

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 45
EGGS
in10
Ten incredible egg dishes
that take about
10 minutes (or less).

1. smoked salmon salad


with sot-boiled eggs
This dish combines favorite bagel toppings like
capers, dill, and smoked salmon in a light yet satisfy-
ing salad. Serve with pumpernickel toast. Serves 4

Bring a 1-quart saucepan of water to a boil. Using a slotted


spoon, gently lower 4large eggs into the water, reduce the
heat to medium low, cover, and cook for 4minutes. Drain and
immediately transfer the eggs to a large bowl of cold water.
Meanwhile, whisk 1tsp. Dijon mustard with 1Tbs. fresh
lemon juice. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in 3Tbs.
extra-virgin olive oil. Stir in 3Tbs. chopped fresh dill.
In a large bowl, mix 8oz. trimmed, coarsely chopped
watercress, 6oz. thinly sliced smoked salmon torn into bite-
size pieces, and finely chopped small sweet onion. Toss
with the vinaigrette and divide among 4plates. Divide 2Tbs.
drained and rinsed capers among the plates. Peel and halve
the eggs. Arrange them on the salads, sprinkle with kosher
salt, and serve.

46 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


Its not news that you can cook eggs
in 10minutesscrambled eggs have
long been a quick fallback meal
for people who are short on time
and groceries. But you can do so
much more in a very short amount
of time. Try any one of the lavor-
packed, globally inspired recipes
here, and youll never look at eggs
as a last resort again.

2. pineapple matzo brei


Matzo brei (rhymes with fry) is let sit while you melt 2Tbs. unsalted
a traditional Passover dish made butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over
from matzo fried with eggs in a sort medium-high heat. Add the mixture to
the skillet, and cook, stirring constantly
of pancake or a looser scramble,
with a wooden spatula, until the eggs
like this one. Here, its sweetened
are softly set, about 3minutes. Stir in
with orange juice, fresh pineapple, cup chopped fresh pineapple and
and maple syrup. Serves 4 cook, patting the mixture down, until
the edges turn golden, about 2minutes.
Break 4sheets of unsalted matzo into Season to taste with salt, garnish with
- to 1-inch pieces (its OK if theyre small mint leaves, and serve with
uneven). In a colander, rinse the pieces maple syrup.
under hot water. In a large bowl, whisk
3large eggs with 3Tbs. fresh orange
juice, 1tsp. granulated sugar, and tsp.
kosher salt. Add the matzo pieces, and

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 47
3. curried egg salad and
cucumber sandwiches
Egg salad in 10 minutes? Yep. The trick to quickly
hard-cooking eggs is to boil water in the micro-
wave, then add the eggs for a short time so they
dont explode. Serves 2

Put 2cups water in a wide, shallow, microwave-safe bowl.


Microwave on high until the water boils, about 3minutes.
Gently lower 4large eggs into the water, and microwave
on high 4minutes more. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk
13cup mayonnaise with tsp. curry powder, tsp.
cumin, and tsp. kosher salt. Toast 4slices of white
sandwich bread. Thinly slice English cucumber on a
sharp diagonal.
Cool the eggs under cold water, peel, and mash with a
fork in a medium bowl. Stir in the curry mayonnaise and
cup golden raisins. Assemble sandwiches with the
toast, cucumber slices, egg salad, and 2red leaf lettuce
leaves. Serve.

4. lemony egg soup


with peas
Adding lemon and egg to brothas in the
Greek soup avgolemonomakes it velvety.
Peas lend a sweet, springy flavor. Serves 4as a
first course

In a 3-quart saucepan, melt 1Tbs. unsalted butter


over medium heat. Add 1tsp. finely chopped shallot
and cook, stirring, until tender, about 2minutes. Add
1 quart lower-salt chicken broth and 3Tbs. fresh
lemon juice; bring to a gentle simmer. Meanwhile,
whisk 2large eggs with tsp. kosher salt and tsp.
freshly ground black pepper. Reduce the heat to
medium low, and slowly whisk in the eggs. Add 2Tbs.
finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, season to taste
with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and divide
among 4soup bowls. Divide 2cups thawed frozen
peas among the bowls and serve.

48 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


5. spinach-noodle soup
with poached eggs
Instant ramen, that old dorm-room garlic, 2thin slices of ginger, and tsp. kosher
standby, gets a massive upgrade when salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add 6oz.
you ditch the artificial flavor packet in instant ramen noodles (discard seasoning pack-
favor of fragrant aromatics and fresh ets) and 1oz. (1packed cup) baby spinach and
cook, stirring to break apart the noodles, until
spinach. Serves 2
they sink and the spinach is wilted, about 1min-
ute. Crack 2large eggs into the pot, cover, and
In a 4- to 5-quart pot, heat 1Tbs. canola oil over
turn off the heat. Let sit until the whites have set,
medium-low heat. Add small finely chopped
about 3minutes. Divide between 2bowls, top
yellow onion, and cook, stirring occasionally,
with a dash of Sriracha or other hot sauce and a
until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add 6 cups
drizzle of Asian sesame oil, and serve.
lower-salt chicken broth, 1smashed clove of

6. tomato-harissa poached eggs


This is a quick version of a Middle 1large coarsely chopped red or orange
Eastern dish called shakshuka. Harissa, bell pepper, 3Tbs. harissa, tsp. ground
a spicy North African pepper paste, cumin, and tsp. kosher salt, and bring to
adds a complex, mellow heat in place a simmer.
of the more traditional fresh chile Reduce the heat to medium, crack 4large
peppers. Feel free to add extra heat eggs into the sauce, cover, and cook until
with red pepper flakes or more harissa. the whites are set, about 3minutes.
Serves 4 Season each egg with kosher
salt. Garnish with 2Tbs.
Heat 2Tbs. olive oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch chopped fresh flat-leaf
skillet over medium-high heat. Coarsely parsley, and serve
chop 1small yellow onion and cook, stir- with 4warmed pi-
ring, until tender, about 2minutes. Add tas.
1minced medium clove garlic and cook
until fragrant, about 30seconds. Add one
28-oz. can chopped tomatoes with juice,
8. scrambled egg torta
Tortas are big, flavorful, overstuffed Mexican
sandwiches. This onefilled with scrambled
eggs, mild cheese, bright cilantro, creamy
avocado, and tangy lime juicemakes a
tasty and hearty meal for any time of the
day. Serves 2
Halve and toast 2crusty rolls. Melt 1Tbs.
unsalted butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over
medium heat. In a small bowl, whisk 3large eggs
with a pinch of kosher salt, then pour into the skil-
let. Cook, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula,
until the eggs are set, about 2minutes. Remove
from the heat.
In another small bowl, crumble cup (2oz.)
queso fresco or feta and mix with 2Tbs. chopped

7. wild mushroom salad


with fried eggs
cilantro. In another small bowl, mash medium
avocado with tsp. fresh lime juice and a pinch
of salt. Spread the cheese mixture on the bottom
halves of the buns and the mashed avocado on the
Sunny-side-up eggs top virgin olive oil, 2tsp. Cham- top halves. Divide the eggs between the two buns,
savory mushrooms and pagne vinegar, 1tsp. Dijon season with salt and pepper, and top each with
greens dressed in a mustard, 1tsp. finely chopped
2thin, lightly salted slices of tomato and 1 or 2very
rosemary-laced Cham- shallot, and tsp. chopped
thin slices of red onion. Add a dash of hot sauce,
pagne vinaigrette. Adding fresh rosemary. Season 5oz.
baby greens with salt and pep- if you like, then close the sandwiches and serve.
water and covering the eggs
while cooking is a hybrid per and dress lightly with the
fry-and-steam method that vinaigrette. Divide the greens
prevents rubbery whites. between 2dinner plates. Top
Serves 2 each with half of the mushroom
mixture.
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, Wipe out the skillet and melt
melt 2Tbs. unsalted butter another 1Tbs. unsalted butter
over medium heat. Add 2finely over medium heat. Crack 2large
chopped medium cloves garlic, eggs into the skillet, and care-
8oz. sliced mixed mushrooms, fully drizzle 2Tbs. water around
tsp. kosher salt, and tsp. them. Season the eggs with salt
freshly ground black pepper; and pepper, cover, and cook until
cook until the mushrooms the whites are set, about 3min-
are lightly browned, about utes. Top each salad with an
4minutes. egg and pass the remain-
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, ing dressing at the table.
whisk together 2Tbs. extra-

50 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


10. shrimp, bacon, and egg pancake
Inspired by Japanese okonomi- Fold in 1loosely packed cup shredded
yaki, a thick, overstuffed egg green cabbage, cup thinly sliced
pancake, this dish is satisfying scallions, and 12cooked peeled small
enough for a meal, or you can cut shrimp (51to 60per lb.). Pour the
it smaller for a delicious appetizer. mixture into the bacon fat in the skillet,
Serves 4as a main course, 8as a using a large spatula to spread evenly.
first course Broil until the egg is set and golden,
about 3minutes. Slide onto a platter,
Position a rack in the center of the slice, and serve with the dipping sauce.

9. poached egg and


asparagus toasts with
oven and heat the broiler on high. Heat
1Tbs. peanut oil in a 12-inch cast-iron
skillet over medium-high heat. Add
2strips thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise
lemon-chive beurre blanc into -inch strips, and cook until crisp,
about 6minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
This quick take on eggs Benedict eschews transfer the bacon to a large bowl and
Hollandaise sauce and ham in favor of tangy set the skillet aside.
beurre blanc and fresh asparagus. It takes Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine
slightly more than 10 minutes, but it looks and 3Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce,
tastes as if it took twice as long. Serves4 1finely chopped clove garlic, and tsp.
grated fresh ginger; set aside.
Fill a 3-quart saucepan with 2inches of water and Whisk 6large eggs, cup (1 18oz.)
bring to a boil. all-purpose flour, tsp. white pepper,
Meanwhile, split and toast 2 English muffins. and 18tsp. kosher salt with the bacon.
Boil 8stalks of asparagus, trimmed and halved
crosswise, until crisp-tender, 3to 4minutes. With a
slotted spoon or tongs, transfer to a paper towel
lined plate.
Add tsp. cider vinegar to the water, and bring
to a simmer. One at a time, crack 4large eggs into a
small bowl and gently slide each egg into the water.
Poach until the whites are set, 2to 3minutes. With
a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water in
the order they were added and gently blot dry with a
paper towel.
While the asparagus and eggs cook, cut 4oz.
unsalted butter into -inch pieces. In an 8-inch skil-
let, combine cup white wine, 3Tbs. fresh lemon
juice, and 1Tbs. finely chopped shallot. Bring to a
simmer over medium-high heat and cook until the
liquid has reduced to about 1Tbs. Turn the heat to
low and whisk in the butter a few pieces at a time. It
should melt gradually to form a creamy sauce. Stir
in 1Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives. Season to taste
with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Top the English muffins with the asparagus, eggs,
and sauce. Pass any remaining at the table.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 51
WITH
Tangy yogurt is a star in dressings, dips, and more.
Although yogurt is a go-to breakfast or snack for from marinades and batters to baked goods and
most of us, its tart flavor and smooth texture also frozen dessertsso stock up on extra cartons of
make it versatile for cooking. This naturally creamy yogurt and start cooking.
ingredient can be used in so many different ways

1. DOLLOP ON TOP
smoked trout and bean salad
This ingenious combination of tangy yogurt, oil-cured olives, fresh cucumbers, and bunches of fragrant
herbs, along with hearty beans and smoky fish, offers intriguing flavors in every bite. Serves 6as a main
course, 10to 12as a starter or side
12 oz. (2cups) green beans (or cup chopped fresh dill, 1tsp. Add 1Tbs. water, cover, and steam
an assortment of string beans), reserved for garnish
until crisp-tender, about 4minutes.
string removed if tough, cut into 3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
-inch pieces Transfer to a large bowl and let cool to
3 Tbs. red-wine vinegar room temperature, about 15minutes.
cup sunflower seed or grapeseed
oil, preferably unfiltered 2 Tbs. fresh marjoram leaves, Add the cranberry beans,
coarsely chopped, 1tsp. reserved cucumber, olives, onion, sunflower
4 cups cooked cranberry or for garnish
cannellini beans (fresh, dried, seeds, parsley, dill, lemon juice,
or canned) 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
vinegar, marjoram, lemon zest, and
2 small or 1large cucumber, peeled 2 medium cloves garlic, finely
garlic. Season to taste with salt and
if skin is tough, cut into -inch chopped
pepper and mix gently.
dice (about 3cups) Kosher or sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper Arrange the salad on a large serving
1 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
platter and top with dollops of yogurt.
and halved (see Test Kitchen,
p.86) Crumble the trout into chunks and
8 to 10oz. skinless smoked
cup finely chopped red onion trout fillet scatter over the top. Garnish with
the reserved herbs and more black
cup toasted sunflower seeds
In a 12-inch skillet, cook the green pepper and serve.
cup chopped fresh curly parsley, beans in the oil over medium heat
1tsp. reserved for garnish
until they begin to sizzle, 1minute.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 53
2. BAKE A CAKE
yogurt cake with chocolate ganache frosting
Yogurt adds moisture to this dense cakes crumb and a light tartness that breaks up the richness of the ganache frosting.
Dairy tends to dull the flavor of cocoa, so the cake here is vanilla, but chocolate lovers can still get their fix from the heavenly
chocolate ganache icing. Serves 12

FOR THE CAKE pan. Line the pan with a piece of parchment melted. Remove from the heat and let cool for
4 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter, paper cut to size. 15 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and refrig-
softened; more for the pan In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, erate uncovered, stirring every 30 minutes or
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a so, until it firms to a spreadable texture, about
all-purpose flour
stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment 45 minutes.
1 tsp. baking powder or in a large bowl with an electric hand mixer, TO SERVE
1 tsp. baking soda cream the sugar and butter on medium speed Transfer the cake to a cake plate. Frost the
tsp. table salt until smooth and fluffy. Reduce the speed to cake and serve right away, or refrigerate for
1 cup granulated sugar low, add the eggs, and then add the yogurt up to 5 days in an airtight cake container
3 large eggs and vanilla, scraping down the sides of the (return to room temperature before serving).
1 cups plain yogurt (low-fat bowl as needed. Add the dry ingredients and
or full-fat) mix until just incorporated.
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Transfer the batter to the prepared pan
FOR THE GANACHE FROSTING and bake until a toothpick inserted into the
cup heavy cream center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. baking with yogurt
8 oz. semisweet chocolate, Let cool completely on a rack before turning In many recipes, yogurt is a lower-
broken into small pieces the cake out of the pan. fat substitution for richer ingre-
1 Tbs. light corn syrup MAKE THE FROSTING dients like butter or oil. And like
buttermilk or sour cream, yogurt
Bring the cream to a simmer in a small
MAKE THE CAKE not only adds tang to cakes but also
saucepan over medium heat. Reduce the
Position a rack in the center of the oven and helps to create a moist texture.
heat to low, add the chocolate and corn syrup,
heat the oven to 350F. Butter a 9-inch cake and whisk until the chocolate is completely

54 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


3. USE AS A FILLING
tomato-basil tart with yogurt custard
Using yogurt in a custard instead of MAKE THE FILLING On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough
milk or cream adds a nice tang. This In a 4-quart saucepan, warm the oil over low into a 12-inch round. Press into a 9-inch fluted
one tops a puttanesca-inspired filling heat. Add the garlic, anchovy paste (if using), tart pan with a removable bottom, folding in
of tomatoes, olives, capers, anchovy, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, any overhang to create double-thick sides.
and basil. Omit the anchovy paste for a until fragrant and sizzling, 3 to 5minutes. Set the tart pan on a foil-lined baking sheet.
vegetarian version. Serves 6 Add the tomatoes, olives, and capers. Cover Sprinkle cup of the Asiago over the
and continue cooking over low heat, stirring bottom of the tart. Spread the tomato
FOR THE CRUST
occasionally, until most of the tomatoes mixture on top of the cheese. Slowly pour
4 oz. (1cup) unbleached all-purpose
have burst and the liquid has mostly evapo- in the egg mixture.
flour; more as needed
rated, about 15minutes. Uncover and Bake for 20minutes. Sprinkle the remain-
oz. finely grated Asiago cheese
(cup) continue to cook, stirring constantly and ing 2Tbs. Asiago on top of the tart and return
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh basil
breaking any tomatoes that have not burst, to the oven until golden, puffed, and set,
about 1 minute. Spread on a large dinner 15 to 20minutes longer. Transfer the tart to a
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper plate or tray and cool to room temperature, wire rack (without the baking sheet), and cool
3 oz. (6Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, stirring occasionally. 10minutes before removing the outer ring
cut into -inch cubes Meanwhile, whisk the eggs in a medium of the tart pan. If transferring from the metal
bowl. Add the yogurt and tsp. pepper, and base onto a serving plate, cool 5 to 10min-
FOR THE FILLING
whisk until smooth. Set aside. utes longer before sliding a long spatula
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE TART underneath the tart to ease it off the base.
3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
Position a rack in the center of the oven and Garnish with the basil. Serve warm or at room
tsp. anchovy paste (optional)
heat the oven to 425F. temperature.
18 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups grape tomatoes
cup pitted Kalamata olives, rinsed,
patted dry, and coarsely chopped
1 Tbs. capers, rinsed and patted dry
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cups plain yogurt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 oz. finely grated Asiago
cheese (13cup)
Thinly sliced basil, for garnish
MAKE THE CRUST
Combine the flour, Asiago, basil, tsp. salt,
and tsp. pepper in a food processor. Pulse
a few times just to combine. Scatter in the
butter and pulse until pea-size clumps form.
With the food processor running, slowly add
2Tbs. ice water through the feed tube. Start
dribbling in a third tablespoon bit by bit, stop-
ping once the dough forms a ball.
Turn the dough onto a floured surface and
press into a 6-inch disk. Wrap in plastic and
chill for at least 30minutes and up to 1day.

55 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


4. WHIP UP A DIP
cucumber-yogurt dip
(tzatziki)
Aside from being a great party dip,
tzatziki is also delicious served with
roasted or grilled meats. Chopping
the garlic in the salt is a Greek trick
that brings out garlics punch. Raw
garlic, however, becomes acrid
rather quickly, so to be at its best,
tzatziki should be made the day of
serving or no more than 24 hours
ahead. Yields about 2 cups;
serves 8 to 10
Kosher or sea salt
2 medium cloves garlic
1 cups plain whole-milk yogurt,
preferably Greek
cup peeled, seeded, and finely
chopped cucumber
1 Tbs. red-wine vinegar
2 tsp. chopped fresh mint
2 tsp. chopped fresh dill
2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Fresh mint leaves for
garnish (optional)

Spread tsp. salt on a cutting board.


Peel the garlic and finely chop it on top
of the salt. Transfer the garlic and salt to
a medium bowl and stir in the yogurt.
Put the cucumber in a colander and
squeeze as much liquid out of it as you
can. Add the cucumber, vinegar, mint,
dill, and olive oil to the yogurt mixture.
Stir to blend and season to taste with
salt. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours
before serving. Serve cool, garnished
with the mint leaves (if using) and
accompanied by fresh pita wedges or
toasted pita chips.

MAKE AHEAD
The dip can be made up to a day ahead.

56 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


6. MAKE A MARINADE
yogurt-marinated roast chicken
Yogurt is mildly acidic, so its a great tenderizer.
Marinate chicken in it overnight for moist and
flavorful meat. Serves 4
1 4-lb. chicken
2 cups plain full-fat or low-fat yogurt
3 medium cloves garlic, chopped
1 large shallot, chopped
13 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
cup chopped fresh dill
1 Tbs. cracked black peppercorns
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the chicken on a cutting board breast side down. Use


poultry shears to cut along both sides of the backbone;
remove and discard the backbone. Flip the chicken over
and press down gently to break the breastbone and flatten
the breast slightly.
In a gallon-size resealable plastic bag, combine the
yogurt, garlic, shallot, parsley, dill, cracked peppercorns,
5. SERVE AS A SAUCE lemon zest, and 2tsp. salt. Add the chicken to the bag and
turn to coat well. Set in a bowl and refrigerate overnight.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the
orange-roasted salmon oven to 450F. Remove the chicken from the marinade
with yogurt-caper sauce and put it skin side up on a broiler pan or on a rack set
inside a rimmed baking sheet. Season both sides well
Citrus zest enlivens both the fish and the herbed yogurt sauce with salt and pepper. Roast the chicken, uncovered, until
served alongside. Serves 6 an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh reads
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil;
170F, 45to 50minutes. Transfer the chicken to a carving
sprinkle with 1 tsp. of the orange
more for the baking sheet board and loosely tent it with foil; let rest for 10minutes
zest, the salt, and a few grinds
6 1-inch-thick, skin-on center- before carving.
of black pepper. Gently rub the
cut salmon fillets (about 6 oz.
each), pin bones removed seasonings into the fish. Let sit
at room temperature while the
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
oven heats.
tsp. kosher salt; more
to taste Combine the yogurt in a small
Freshly ground black pepper
bowl with the remaining 1 Tbs. of
olive oil, tsp. orange zest, and
cup plain whole-milk yogurt
the parsley, capers, and orange
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley juice. Stir to combine. Season to
1 Tbs. capers, drained, rinsed,
taste with salt and black pepper.
and chopped The sauce can be made up to
1 Tbs. fresh orange juice several hours ahead and kept
refrigerated.
Position a rack in the center of Roast the salmon until just
the oven and heat the oven to cooked through, with a trace
400F. Lightly oil a heavy-duty of bright pink in the center (cut
rimmed baking sheet. into a piece to check), 10 to
Arrange the salmon skin side 15 minutes. Serve immediately,
down on the baking sheet, drizzle drizzled with the yogurt sauce.
with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil, and
7. FREEZE A SWEET
TREAT
creamy orange-vanilla ice pops
Think of these pops as the ultimate homemade Creamsicle: creamy Greek yogurt
combines with fresh-squeezed orange juice, with flecks of real vanilla bean. Yields
about ten 13-cup pops
cup granulated sugar Measure out 1 cup of the orange juice
Pinch of kosher salt (if you have extra, save it for another use).
vanilla bean (about 3 inches), Combine it with the syrup. Stir in the yogurt
split lengthwise until well combined.
3 oranges, juiced Add the fruit mixture to each mold, leaving
1 cup plain Greek-style yogurt about inch at the top to allow for expansion.
Freeze until partially frozen, about 1 hour.
Combine the sugar, salt, and cup water in
Insert sticks and freeze again until the pops
a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Bring
are fully set, 4 to 6 hours more.
to a boil and make sure the sugar has dis-
To unmold, dip the mold in a deep pan of
solved; add the vanilla bean. Reduce the heat
hot water until the pops pull out easily, 30 to
to medium-low and simmer for 2 minutes.
40 seconds, or let sit at room temperature for
Remove from the heat and let the syrup cool
5 to 10 minutes. Unmold and store the pops in
completely. Strain through a fine strainer into
individual resealable plastic bags; theyre best
a 1-quart liquid measuring cup, and discard
eaten within 3 weeks.
the solids in the strainer.

58 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


8. ADD TO BATTER
spiced yogurt wales
with toasted-pecan
maple syrup
Yogurt gives waffles a rich texture and
a slightly tangy flavor, which is comple-
mented here by warm spices. Whipped
egg whites folded into the batter ensure
light, tender results.
Yields about 10 waffles
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
13 cup granulated sugar
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
tsp. kosher salt
tsp. ground nutmeg
18 tsp. ground cloves
1 cups plain full-fat or low-fat yogurt
cup whole milk
2 large eggs, separated
3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more for the
waffle iron
tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 cup pure maple syrup
cup toasted pecans, coarsely chopped

Heat the oven to 200F and heat a waffle iron,


preferably a Belgian waffle iron.
In a small bowl, combine the flour, sugar,
cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, salt,
nutmeg, and cloves. In a large bowl, combine
the yogurt, milk, egg yolks, vegetable oil, and
vanilla.
In a medium bowl, with a wire whisk or
electric hand mixer, beat the egg whites to
soft peaks.
With a spatula, gently fold the dry
ingredients into the yogurt mixture until
just combined (the batter should be a little
lumpy). Fold the whipped egg whites into the
batter until just incorporated.
Brush the waffle iron with a little vegetable
oil. Working in batches, cook the batter in the
waffle iron according to the manufacturers
instructions until crisp and golden. Set the
waffles directly on the oven rack to keep
warm. Do not stack them.
Meanwhile, in a 2-quart saucepan, warm
the maple syrup over medium heat. Stir in the
pecans and keep warm. Serve the waffles with
the syrup.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 59
9. STIR INTO SOUP
spiced lentil soup with
herbed yogurt
Warm spices and earthy legumes are
topped with a cooling yogurt. To learn
more about lentils, see Test Kitchen,
p. 88. Serves 4 to 6; yields about 6 cups
4 oz. bacon (about 4 slices),
cut into thin strips
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 large leek (white and light
green parts), cut in half, rinsed
of grit, and finely diced
2 medium carrots, peeled
and finely diced
1 rib celery, finely diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 cups dried French green lentils
(or brown lentils), sorted through
and rinsed
6 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup plain yogurt
2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

Cook the bacon in the oil in a large saucepan


or pot over medium heat, stirring occasional-
ly, until its brown and crisp, about 8 minutes.
Using aslotted spoon, transfer the bacon toa
plate lined with paper towels. Addthe leek,
carrots, and celery to thepan, season with
salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasion-
ally, until the vegetables soften and just start
tobrown, about 7minutes. Stir in the cumin
and coriander and cook for 30seconds. Stir
in the lentils and 5cups water and season
with salt andpepper. Bring to a boil, reduce
theheatto a gentle simmer, cover, and
cook until the lentils become tender but not
mushy, about 45minutes. Stirin cup of the
cilantro and the reserved bacon. Thin with
water, if necessary, to get the consistency you
like. Taste for salt and pepper.
In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the
remaining 2Tbs. cilantro and the mint and
season with salt. Ladle the soup into serving
bowls, topwith a dollop of the yogurt, and
serve immediately.

60 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


10. DRESS A SALAD
cucumber, fennel, and roasted potato salad with parsleyed yogurt
This refreshing, almost palate-cleansing side dish is served with cool, creamy yogurt. It pairs perfectly with lamb. Serves 6 to 8
1 lb. fingerling potatoes Heat the oven to 400F. On a small rimmed and the lemon juice. Season well with salt and
cup extra-virgin olive oil; baking sheet, toss the potatoes with 1 Tbs. of pepper and toss again. Taste and add more
more to taste the oil and season generously with salt and lemon juice or olive oil if needed.
Kosher salt and freshly pepper. Roast until tender when pierced with Divide the salad among six to eight plates,
ground black pepper
a skewer, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool the pota- piling it toward the center of each plate. Drop
lb. haricots verts or slender toes; they can be served still warm or at room a large dollop of yogurt next to each salad.
green beans, trimmed
temperature.
1 cups plain whole-milk Greek
yogurt
Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan
of salted water to a boil. Cook the haricots
1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
verts until just tender (taste one to see), 3 to MAKE AHEAD
3 medium stalks celery, trimmed and sliced
4 minutes. Drain in a colander and run under You can prepare both the yogurt and the
18 inch thick on a sharp diagonal
cold water until cool. vegetables a few hours ahead of serving. Stir
1 English cucumber, peeled, cut in half
lengthwise, seeded, and sliced 18 inch Combine the yogurt and parsley and together the yogurt, parsley, and seasonings
thick on the diagonal season well with salt and pepper; keep chilled and refrigerate, covered. Combine all the
1 medium bulb fennel (about 1 lb.), until ready to serve. vegetables but the potatoes in a bowl but
trimmed, cut in half, cored, and sliced To serve, halve or quarter any larger dont dress them. Cover the vegetables with
crosswise 18 inch thick fingerlings, but leave the tiny ones whole. a damp paper towel and keep refrigerated;
1 small red onion, halved and sliced Combine the potatoes, haricots verts, celery, leave the potatoes at room temperature.
crosswise 18 inch thick
cucumber, fennel, and red onion in a large
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more bowl and toss with the remaining 3 Tbs. oil
to taste

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 61
Rhubarbs
GREATEST HITS
Brighten up your favorite desserts
with sweet-tart rhubarb.
Rosy red in color with a unique sweet-tart but also causes it to release a surprising
lavor, rhubarb can give a wonderful sea- amount of liquid. In compotes or sauces,
sonal spark to just about any dessert. When where a juicy consistency is desirable, this
the very irst stalks of rhubarb show up at is a boon. But if youre making a illing for a
the market in early spring, use it in classic pie or crumble, you need to add a thickener,
desserts that everyone loves, from pies to such as cornstarch or tapioca, to prevent it
crumbles, muins, and compotes. from being too loose.
Although its usually treated as a fruit and Some of the best rhubarb desserts are
used mainly in desserts, rhubarb is techni- simple and revolve around everyday pantry
cally a vegetable. he edible parts are the ingredients, and the recipes here are perfect
leshy celery-like stalks. If you grow your examples. Make a Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie
own, be aware that the green leaves are poi- thats as easy as pie gets and all comfort.
sonous if eaten and need to be removed. Sour cream adds richness to the Cinnamon
When shopping for rhubarb, look for Rhubarb Muins, but its the juice released
irm, crisp, unblemished stalks with a bright, by the rhubarb that makes them so tender
intense color. Look for thinner stalks, as and moist that you can still serve them the
larger ones tend to be more stringy and next day. A generous amount of oatmeal
tough. Wrap the stalks tightly in plastic and streusel tops the Rhubarb Brown Sugar
refrigerate them. hey should stay crisp for Crumble, providing a crunchy contrast to
up to ive days. the tart, juicy illing. And the Strawberry-
You can also freeze sliced or diced rhu- Rhubarb Compote comes together in a
barb in plastic bags for up to six months. heartbeat and is extremely versatile. Spoon
Frozen rhubarb tends to release more liquid it over buttermilk cheesecake, ice cream, or
and doesnt hold its shape as well as fresh a silky panna cotta. To tell you the truth, it
rhubarb, so use it where texture is not even makes a delicious spread for a cold
essential, as in the muins on p. 65. pork loin sandwich.
To prep rhubarb for cooking, trim of the
ends and any leaves still attached. Peel the
ibrous exterior only if its very tough. Cut grow your own
rhubarb as you would celery, into slices or
To have your own supply of rhubarb,
small dice, depending on the recipe. plant roots in early spring; seeds take
he simplest way to cook rhubarb is to much longer to become established. Its
simmer it in a little liquid with sugar and best to wait until the second year after
other lavorings, as you will in the compote planting to harvest, as the stalks usually
arent thick and robust enough the first
at right. You can also bake with rhubarb by
year. Rhubarb is a forgiving plant that
adding it to cake or muin batters, just as can withstand a considerable amount
you would blueberries and other fruits. of neglect. In fact, you might want to
In sweet preparations, rhubarb needs a plant it in a spot where you wont mind
good amount of sugar to balance its tartness. seeing it every year, as it will come back
again and again.
Cooking helps ofset its natural astringency

62 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


strawberry- rhubarb compote with
vanilla and cardamom
Cardamom gives this compote an alluring flavor. Its excellent
spooned over ice cream, cheesecake, or panna cotta, and
even as a spread for a pork sandwich. It will keep, covered
and refrigerated, for up to 4 days. Yields about 4 cups
4 cups -inch-thick sliced shape, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the
rhubarb (about 1 lb.)
strawberries and simmer until
cup granulated sugar; they start to soften and the
more to taste
rhubarb breaks down slightly, 1 to
6 Tbs. fresh orange juice;
3 minutes.
more to taste
Pour the mixture into a bowl.
3 Tbs. honey
Make an ice bath by filling a larger
tsp. plus 18 tsp. ground
cardamom
bowl with ice and water. Chill
the compote over the ice bath
tsp. kosher salt
at room temperature, stirring
1 small vanilla bean
occasionally, until completely
3 cups hulled and thickly sliced
strawberries (about 2 pints)
cool, 10 to 15 minutes. Discard
the vanilla pod. Taste the
Combine the rhubarb, sugar, compote and add more sugar
orange juice, honey, all the and orange juice, if needed.
cardamom, and salt in a heavy-
bottomed stainless steel 3-quart
saucepan. With a paring knife, slit
open the vanilla bean lengthwise,
scrape out the seeds with the
back of the knife, and add the
seeds and the scraped pod to
the saucepan.
Bring to a simmer over
medium-low heat, stirring
often. Simmer until the rhubarb
releases its juice and becomes
tender but still retains its
strawberry-rhubarb pie
Dont worry if the crust cracks slightly during baking; it only adds to the homemade look of the pie. Serves 8
FOR THE CRUST 2 Tbs. cold butter, cut into halves into disks. Wrap the disks filling into the pie shell and dot
12 oz. (2 23 cups) unbleached small pieces
separately in plastic and refriger- the top with the cold butter. In a
all-purpose flour; more for FOR THE GLAZE ate for at least 1 hour or up to small bowl, beat the egg yolk with
rolling
1 large egg yolk 2 days. 1 tsp. water. Brush the edges of
2 tsp. granulated sugar
MAKE THE CRUST PREPARE THE FILLING the pie shell with some of the
tsp. kosher salt egg glaze.
In a food processor, combine the Position a rack in the center of
4 oz. (8 Tbs.) cold unsalted Roll out the second dough
butter, cut into small pieces flour, sugar, and salt, and pulse the oven and heat the oven to
to combine. Add the butter and 375F. In a large mixing bowl, disk as above and set it over the
4 oz. ( cup plus 1 Tbs.) cold
shortening and pulse until the combine the rhubarb, strawber- fruit filling to form a top crust.
vegetable shortening, cut
into small pieces mixture resembles coarse meal, ries, sugar, tapioca, orange juice, Press the edges of the dough
about 1 minute. Transfer the zest, cinnamon, clove, allspice, together to seal the crust, trim
FOR THE FILLING
mixture to a large bowl. and salt. Toss gently to mix the overhang to inch, and fold
4 cups -inch-thick sliced
Fill a measuring cup with cup well, and then let sit for at least it under. Flute or crimp the dough
rhubarb (about 1 lb.)
very cold water. While tossing 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes all around. Brush the top crust
1 lb. strawberries, hulled and
sliced inch thick (about and stirring the flour mixture (while you roll out the bottom with the remaining egg glaze (you
2 cups) with a fork, add the water 1 Tbs. crust). wont need all of it). Cut four 1- to
1 cups plus 2 Tbs. granulated at a time until the dough just 1-inch-long steam vents in the
ASSEMBLE THE PIE
sugar begins to come together in small top crust.
If the dough was refrigerated for Set the pie on a foil-lined
cup plus 1 Tbs. quick- clumps and holds together when
cooking tapioca several hours or overnight, let rimmed baking sheet and bake
you pinch a little between your it sit at room temperature until
2 Tbs. fresh orange juice fingers (you may need only cup until the pastry is golden brown
pliable, about 20 minutes. On a and the fruit juices bubble thickly
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest of water). lightly floured surface, roll out out of the pie, 70 to 80 minutes.
tsp. ground cinnamon Transfer the dough to a clean one of the dough disks into a Transfer to a rack and let cool
tsp. ground clove work surface and gather it 18-inch-thick circle, 12 to 13 inches completely before serving, about
tsp. ground allspice together with your hands. Lightly in diameter, and transfer it to a 4 hours.
tsp. kosher salt knead the dough once or twice, 9-inch Pyrex pie plate. Pour the
divide it in half, and shape the

what pairs well


with rhubarb?
Spring strawberries and rhubarb are a classic
combination, but other sweet fruits such as
peaches, apples, and pears make wonderful
partners, too. Accent flavors like vanilla, caramel,
cinnamon, ginger, orange juice, and orange zest
as well as brown sugar make a nice complement,
showing off rhubarbs bright personality. Nuts
provide great textural contrast.
cinnamon-rhubarb muffins
These muffins are best when freshly baked, but theyre still
good the second day. Just reheat them in a 350F oven for
3 to 4 minutes to refresh them. Yields 12 medium muffins
FOR THE MUFFINS cream mixture into the dry
9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour ingredients with a spatula until
cup granulated sugar the batter just comes together;
2 tsp. baking powder do not overmix. Gently stir in the
1 tsp. ground cinnamon diced rhubarb. The batter will
tsp. baking soda be thick.
tsp. kosher salt Divide the batter among the
1 cup sour cream muffin cups, using the back of a
4 oz. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter,
spoon or a small spatula to settle
the batter into the cups. The
rhubarb brown sugar crumble melted and cooled slightly
2 large eggs batter should mound a bit higher
Vanilla ice cream is a natural with this homey 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract than the tops of the cups.
favorite. Serves 6 to 8 1 cups -inch-diced rhubarb MAKE THE TOPPING
(7 oz.) In a small bowl, combine the
1 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
FOR THE TOPPING sugar and cinnamon and mix well.
FOR THE TOPPING
3 Tbs. granulated sugar Sprinkle a generous tsp. of the
4 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
tsp. ground cinnamon cinnamon-sugar mixture over
1 cup lightly packed light brown sugar each muffin.
cup old-fashioned oats Position a rack in the center of Bake the muffins until theyre
tsp. ground cinnamon the oven and heat the oven to golden brown, spring back most
tsp. kosher salt 400F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin of the way when gently pressed,
4 oz. (8 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces with paper or foil baking cups. and a pick inserted in the center
FOR THE FILLING MAKE THE MUFFIN BATTER comes out clean, 18 to 22 min-
7 cups 13-inch-thick sliced rhubarb (about 2 lb.) In a large mixing bowl, combine utes. Transfer to a rack and let
the flour, sugar, baking powder, the muffins cool in the pan for
1 cup lightly packed light brown sugar
cinnamon, baking soda, and salt 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully lift the
cup cornstarch
and whisk to blend. muffins out of the panif neces-
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
In a medium bowl, whisk sary, loosen them with the tip of
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest (from 1 medium
together the sour cream, melted a paring knifeand let them cool
lemon, using a rasp-style grater)
butter, eggs, and vanilla until somewhat. Serve warm.
tsp. kosher salt
smooth. Lightly stir the sour
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven
to 350F. Grease an 8x8-inch Pyrex baking dish with the
softened butter.

MAKE THE TOPPING


In a food processor, combine the flour, brown sugar, oats,
cinnamon, and salt and pulse several times to combine. Add
the cold butter and pulse until the mixture has the texture
of coarse meal and clumps together when squeezed lightly,
about 1 minute.
MAKE THE FILLING
Combine the rhubarb, brown sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice,
lemon zest, and salt in a large bowl and stir with a spatula until
evenly mixed. Transfer the rhubarb mixture to the baking pan,
and sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit; the pan will be
very full, but the crumble will settle as it bakes.
Bake until the topping is lightly browned, the rhubarb is
tender (probe in the center with a skewer to check), and the
juices are bubbling thickly around the edges, 45 to 60 min-
utes. Transfer to a rack to cool to warm or room temperature
and to allow the juices to thicken, at least 1 hour.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 65
ONE SIMPLE METHOD,
Four Delicious Pasta
Dinners Learn how to make light, creamy
pasta sauce.

pasta with cream sauce is a perfect example of how one of the recipe ideas included here, making an Italian
easyand how liberatingit is to cook without a recipe. classic, or cooking your own eclectic combination.
Once you learn the steps here, you can improvise a tasty Heres how easy it is to make these dishes: Get your
pasta dinner in minutes. he secret to a light, creamy ingredients ready, including boiling your pasta; saut
sauce? No matter what ingredients you use, you just the main ingredients for the dish; add the lavoring and
need to know how to control the depth and balance of stock; add the cream; and then toss everything together.
lavors and the consistency of the sauce. his four-step Keep in mind that cream is not a dirty word. Its not
method will give you that control, whether youre using bad when its used judiciously; in fact its lovely and deli-

66 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


Flavorful sauce
combinations
To make a cream pasta, follow the steps on pp. 7071, using any of the
ingredient lists below or on pp. 6869. Be sure to do all your prep first,
including cooking your pasta. All these recipes serve two to three.

ziti with mushrooms,


pancetta, and peas
SAUT
2 Tbs. olive oil
cup finely chopped pancetta
cup finely minced onion
2 cups thinly sliced cremini mushrooms
(from about 8 oz. mushrooms)
cup thawed frozen peas (add these last)

FLAVOR
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme (or tsp. dried)
cup Madeira or Marsala
13 cup homemade or lower-salt canned
chicken or vegetable broth

ENRICH
to 23 cup heavy cream

TOSS
8 oz. dried ziti, cooked and drained
cup freshly grated Parmesan

cious. And you really dont need as much as you might


think. Truth is, the cream is not the star in the sauce
method here; its the sauted meat or vegetables and the
pasta. In this method, almost half of the volume in the
sauces comes from other liquids, like broth, fortiied
wines, or the juice from canned tomatoes. his gives the
sauce tons of lavor without fat. he to cup cream
primarily serves as an enrichment to the sauce.
Get the pasta (and everything else) readythis
sauce moves fast. Always start a cream sauce by boiling
the water for the pasta. Cream sauces are so fast that
theres no time to make the sauce and the pasta at the
same time; the sauce will be done long before the water
even comes to a boil. Be sure the pastas not too tough,
not too mushy. It should have some resistance, some
chew, a irm bite. When the pasta is done, drain it
immediately and rinse it to keep it from sticking.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 67
spaghetti with shrimp
in curry creamsauce
SAUT ENRICH
2 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil to 23 cup heavy cream
1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
TOSS
lb. small or medium shrimp,
8 oz. dried thin spaghetti,
peeled and deveined
cooked and drained
cup snow peas, cut across
cup chopped fresh cilantro
into squares
2 thinly sliced scallions
FLAVOR
1 Tbs. curry powder
cup dry vermouth
13 cup homemade or lower-
salt canned vegetable or
chicken broth

68 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


penne with tomato
vodka cream sauce
SAUT
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups canned crushed tomatoes

FLAVOR
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme (or tsp. dried)
2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano (or tsp. dried)
tsp. dried red chile flakes
cup vodka
13 cup homemade or lower-salt canned
chicken or vegetable broth

ENRICH
to 23 cup heavy cream

TOSS
8 oz. dried penne, cooked and drained
cup freshly grated Parmesan
cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

rigatoni normandy
SAUT
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 leek (white and light green part only),
sliced in half and very thinly sliced
crosswise, washed, and drained
6 oz. boneless, skinless chicken breast,
cut into thin strips
Granny Smith or Macintosh apple,
peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

FLAVOR
1 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon
(or tsp. dried)
cup brandy or Calvados
13 cup homemade or lower-salt
canned chicken broth

ENRICH
to 23 cup heavy cream

TOSS
8 oz. dried rigatoni, cooked and drained
cup finely shredded Gruyre or
Emmental cheese

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 69
Four quick steps to a great pasta dinner
2. FLAVOR
Add flavor by reducing liquids into a savory layer. The
base has been sauted, but its not yet time for the
cream. The next step is what makes the sauces so deli-
cious yet less rich than many. Add and reduce liquids to
lay down a layer of deep flavor for the dish and provide
some of the volume of the sauce. Add spices and herbs
right before the liquids, taking care to only gently toast
the spices without burning them. As for the liquid, begin
with any wine or spirits that you might be using so that
the alcohol has a chance to evaporate and the sugars
can caramelize a bit. But remember that if your pan is
very hot, liquors may flame; take the pan off the heat
source momentarily before adding them and stand
back. If it does ignite, keep your cool and cover the pan
to extinguish the flame. For the rest of the liquid, you can
use fish stock, clam juice, or chicken, vegetable, or beef
broth, depending on the main ingredient. Use a total of
1. SAUT about cup liquid for two main-course servings. The
Saut your main ingredients lightlytheyll cook more idea is not to boil the ingredients in the liquid but rather
in the sauce. Every good cream sauce begins not with to reduce the liquid slightly to let the flavors form a back-
cream but with a sauted main ingredient or two: the ground with the main ingredient.
base of the dish. Any meat, poultry, or seafood needs to
be browned lightly during this first step, but not totally
cooked because it will continue to cook as you reduce
the liquids. Root vegetables are particularly good with
cream sauces, but they need to be cut very small or even
shredded first since they have long cooking times. How
long you saut each ingredient is all a matter of com-
mon sense but with this caveat: The main ingredient
should be slightly undercooked at this point because
its going to continue cooking with the flavorings and the
cream. And be sure to lightly season your ingredients at
this stage with salt and pepper so that the flavors have
a chance to penetrate. When you start to saut, get the
pan nice and hot and use just a small amount of oil or
butter. If you add too much fat to the dish, it can force
the cream to break. But by keeping the butter or oil
content low in the first place, youll actually have a richer,
thicker sauce.

70 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


the only pasta tip youll
ever need
Whats the secret to perfect pasta? Oil in the
water? Butter? A little nutmeg? No, the only
trick is to use enough water. For a pound of
cook pasta and prep for the sauce pasta, use 4 quarts of boiling water with about
The four-step sauce will cook quickly. Cooking the pasta and prepping all 2 Tbs. salt; for anything less than 1 lb., use
of the ingredients first will be a key to success. When the pasta is al dente, 3quarts water, never less, and 1 Tbs. salt; for
rinse it briefly to keep it from clumping. The pasta will be heated again in anything more than 1 lb., increase the water
the sauce, so dont worry about keeping it warm. Then follow these steps by 1quart per lb. and the salt by Tbs. per
to make the pasta dish of your choice (see some suggested ingredient quart. You need enough water so that the
combinations on pp. 6769). pasta moves around in the pot, which lets it
cook evenly in the water.

4. TOSS
Toss well to bring it all together. The final step to a pasta
cream sauce is bringing together the cheese (though
not every dish even needs cheese), the sauce, and the
pasta itself. Add the cheese and the cooked pasta while
the pans still over the heat. Toss both in the pan, stirring
so the pasta heats through and the sauce is completely
incorporated, and then immediately remove the pan
from the heat. Cheese is salty by nature, so wait until
the cheese and pasta have been tossed in the sauce to
do your final seasoning. If youre using any fresh herbs
as a final garnish, sprinkle them on now. And serve
immediatelyremember, reheating is not good for
cream sauces.

3. ENRICH
Finally, enrich the sauce by adding creambut not too
much. The cream should reduce slightly so that the sauce
has a nice coating consistency but isnt thick. This will take
from just a minute up to a few minutes, depending on your
pan and your stove. Keep an eye on it: Underreducing the
cream will give you a soupy sauce with a raw edge to it, while
overreducing it wont give you enough sauce to coat the
pasta well, plus you may break the cream.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 71
Versatile
COCON UT
Fresh or dried, this ingredient livens up both sweet
and savory dishes.
coconut is delicious in its many pieces; it makes a perfect garnish,
forms, as youll see in the pages that thanks to its crunchy texture). And
follow. Of course, theres the fresh then theres coconut milk, a thick,
version, a nut that encases white creamy liquid made from combining
meat and pale white juice. But youll coconut meat with hot water, milk,
also ind shredded and sweetened or cream, and straining and squeez-
coconut (moist and tasty in desserts ing out as much liquid as possible.
and baked goods), shredded and It adds a wonderfully rich texture
unsweetened (perfect for savory and flavor to everything from hearty
dishes), and flaked (similar to shred- soups to delicate desserts.
ded but available in wider, flatter

72 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


dried cherry
and coconut granola
Wake up to a fresh batch of
cardamom-scented granola,
which becomes crisp overnight in
the cooling oven. Its delicious with
almonds, pistachios, and dried
cherries, but you can use any nuts
and dried fruit you like. Serve with
yogurt or milk. Yields 10 to 11 cups
4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cups slivered almonds
1 cup shelled, unsalted pistachios
1 cup unsweetened coconut chips
or unsweetened shredded coconut
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. table salt
tsp. ground cardamom
cup pure maple syrup
cup olive oil
cup packed dark brown sugar
cup dried cherries, preferably
unsweetened
THE NIGHT BEFORE
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat the oven to 350F. Line a large
heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet with
parchment.
Combine the oats, almonds,
pistachios, coconut, cinnamon, salt,
and cardamom in a large bowl. Add
the maple syrup, oil, and brown sugar
and stir well. Spread onto the prepared
sheet and bake until just starting to turn
golden, about 15minutes. Turn off the
oven. Stir the granola mixture, return
to the oven, and close the door. Let the
granola sit in the oven for 6to 12hours.
IN THE MORNING
Transfer the granola to a large bowl,
breaking up any large clumps. Stir in
the dried cherries and serve. (Store
leftovers in an airtight container for up to
1month.)
coconut macaroons
These macaroons have a soft, chewy center with a slightly crisped exterior.
Think gently toasted marshmallow kissed by coconut. Makes about 20macaroons
1 cup sweetened condensed milk Combine the condensed milk and vanilla in Bake, rotating and swapping the positions
(from a 12-oz. can; there will be
a large bowl. Add the coconut and stir with a of the pans halfway through, until the
a little left over)
large silicone spatula until thoroughly mixed. macaroons are golden brown in spots
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Beat the egg whites and salt with an electric and their undersides are tanned, about
14 oz. (4cups) sweetened
mixer on medium speed until stiff peaks form, 25minutes.
shredded coconut
about 4minutes. Using the spatula, fold the Cool briefly on the baking sheets on racks,
2 large egg whites
whites into the coconut mixture. Push the then transfer the macaroons directly to the
tsp. kosher salt
mixture together into a mound. racks to cool completely. The macaroons
Position oven racks in the top and bottom With wet hands or two wet spoons, gently will keep, uncovered at room temperature,
thirds of the oven and heat the oven to form rounded tablespoonfuls of batter into for up to 3days, or refrigerated in an airtight
350F. Line 2large rimmed baking sheets balls about 1inches in diameter. Arrange container for up to 3weeks. They can also be
with parchment. 2inches apart on the baking sheets. frozen for up to 6months.

74 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


curried coconut rice pilaf
make and shape the batter This aromatic rice, with its warm curry flavor and
welcome nut crunch, transforms pot roast or beef
stew into a much more exotic and memorable
meal. Serves 4
13 cup finely chopped onion
Combine the con-
densed milk and 2 Tbs. olive oil
vanilla. The milk 1 cup long-grain white rice
helps give maca- 1 tsp. curry powder
roons their char-
1 cups lite coconut milk
acteristic slightly
sticky texture cup homemade or lower-salt chicken broth
while pure vanilla 2 Tbs. currants
extract rounds out tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
the flavor.
cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted in a dry skillet
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
Freshly ground black pepper

In a heavy-based 2- or 3-quart saucepan over medium


heat, sweat the onion in the olive oil until softened but not
browned. Add the rice and the curry powder and cook,
stirring, for 1 minute. Add the coconut milk, chicken broth,
currants, and salt. Boil uncovered over high heat until the
level of the liquid is just above the level of the rice and you
can see air holes forming in the rice, 5 to 7 minutes. Cover
immediately, reduce the heat to low, and simmer (or bake
in a 350F oven) for exactly 15 minutes without lifting the
lid. Let the pilaf rest off the heat for at least 5 minutes
(and up to 20 minutes). Dont uncover until after the first
5 minutes of resting. Fluff and separate the rice grains
with a fork, folding in the toasted almonds and the fresh
cilantro. (Dont stir vigorously or the rice may get gummy.)
Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.
Thoroughly mix in the coconut. Add whipped egg whites. The airy
Doing this now allows you to fold whites lighten the dense elements.
gently when adding the egg whites. Mix gently, using a lift-and-fold
motion to keep them from
deflating.

Shape into balls and bake. The bottoms of the macaroons can
spread a bit during baking, so leave some space between each on
the baking sheets.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 75
chocolate, coconut, and almond bread
Inspired by a favorite coconut candy bar, the Almond Joy, this desserty quick bread is a joy to bake and eat.
Yields one loaf; serves 10
1 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened Position a rack in the lower third of the oven Scrape the batter into the prepared pan
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose and heat the oven to 350F. Butter and and spread evenly.
flour, plus more for the pan then flour the bottom and sides of a 6-cup Sprinkle the almonds evenly over the
cup granulated sugar (8x4-inch or 9x5-inch) loaf pan, tapping batter, gently patting them in so they adhere.
1 Tbs. baking powder out any excess flour. Bake, rotating halfway through, until the top
tsp. table salt In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, is golden and a wooden skewer or toothpick
1 cup chocolate chips baking powder, and salt. Whisk until well inserted in the center comes out clean,
1 cups shredded sweetened dried coconut blended. Stir in the chocolate chips and 50 to 55 minutes. Let cool in the pan on a
1 cup coconut milk coconut. rack for 30 minutes. Invert the bread and
2 large eggs, at room temperature In a medium bowl, combine the coconut remove the pan, turn the bread right side up,
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract milk, eggs, vanilla, and almond extract. Whisk and let cool completely. Store, covered, at
tsp. pure almond extract until blended. Pour the wet ingredients over room temperature for up to 2 days.
4 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter,
the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter.
melted and cooled Using a silicone spatula, gently fold until
cup sliced or chopped almonds blended.

76 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


beer-battered coconut shrimp with rmoulade sauce
A shot of hot sauce in the batter
counters the sweetness of the shrimp,
which get a double dose of crunch
from a coating of shredded coconut
and panko. Serves 4 as an appetizer

FOR THE RMOULADE SAUCE


cup mayonnaise
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbs. minced celery
2 Tbs. minced shallot
1 Tbs. finely chopped capers
1 Tbs. whole-grain mustard
1 small orange, finely grated to yield 1 tsp.
zest, squeezed to yield 1tsp. juice
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
FOR THE SHRIMP
About 4 cups peanut or canola oil
2 oz. ( cup) all-purpose flour
1 Tbs. granulated sugar
1 Tbs. Cajun seasoning
Kosher salt
cup pale lager beer, such as Corona
2 Tbs. Franks RedHot Original cayenne
pepper sauce or other hot sauce
cup panko
cup unsweetened shredded coconut
12 colossal (13 to 15 per lb.) shrimp, peeled
and deveined, tails intact
MAKE THE RMOULADE SAUCE
In a small bowl, combine all of the sauce
ingredients and set aside.
COAT AND FRY THE SHRIMP
Clip a deep fatcandy thermometer to the
side of a 12-inch cast-iron skillet and add
enough oil to measure inch deep. Heat to
360F over medium heat.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk
together the flour, sugar, Cajun seasoning,
and tsp. salt, then slowly whisk in the beer
and hot sauce to make a smooth batter.
In a shallow bowl, combine the panko and 2minutes. If necessary, adjust the heat
shredded coconut. to maintain the oil at 360F. Transfer the
Holding a shrimp by its tail, dip it into shrimp with a slotted spoon to a plate lined
the batter, letting any excess drip off, then with paper towels to drain briefly.
dredge it in the panko mixture, pressing and Serve the shrimp with the rmoulade
rolling it several times to coat well. Trans- sauce.
fer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining
shrimp.
Fry the shrimp in the hot oil, turning
once with tongs, until golden brown, about

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 77
78 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017
lentils with indian spices and coconut
Be sure to use the garnishesthey add color, brightness, and texture to this comforting South Indian-inspired vegan
entre. You can purchase pomegranate arils (seeds) already removed from the fruits in the produce or freezer sections
at grocery stores. Serves 4 to 6
3 Tbs. vegetable oil, divided Fresh pomegranate arils (seeds), As soon as the mixture comes to a boil,
1 cup finely chopped red onion for serving
cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium
Scant 1 cup finely chopped carrot Lightly toasted unsweetened low, and simmer until the lentils are very
coconut, for serving
3 Tbs. finely chopped scallion, white tender, about another 30 minutes. Stir in the
and light green parts only Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for serving
coconut milk and tamarind, re-cover, and
1 Tbs. plus tsp. minced peeled fresh ginger Lime wedges, for serving simmer over medium-low heat for another
2 tsp. finely chopped garlic Plain soy yogurt, for serving (optional) 2 minutes (the lentils should be very tender,
1 tsp. garam masala (without salt) Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large, heavy Dutch and the pot should include some liquid but
3 Tbs. tomato paste oven over medium heat. When hot, add the not so much that the mixture is very soupy).
1 lb. dried brown lentils onions, carrots, scallions, ginger, garlic, and If youd like, use a potato masher to mash
2 cups reduced-sodium vegetable garam masala, and saut until the onions are the lentils a bit. Then ladle portions over rice,
broth (not stock) soft, about 8 minutes. garnishing each serving with pomegranate
1 tsp. coarse salt Stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. oil plus the seeds, toasted coconut, cilantro, lime
1 13-oz. can light coconut milk, shaken tomato paste and lentils, and cook for wedges, andif desiredsoy yogurt.
2 Tbs. tamarind concentrate 2 minutes. Add the broth, 4 cups water, and
4 to 6 cups cooked rice or rice pilaf, the salt, and bring to a boil over high heat,
for serving stirring occasionally.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 79
outrageous coconut-cream meringue cake
This cake owes its stunning butter and sugar on medium-high Level the batter with a spatula. from the heat. Stir in the coconut,
looks to a billowy meringue speed until light and fluffy, 3 to Set two pans on the top rack butter, vanilla, and salt and let
frosting thats spiked and 5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. and the third on the lower rack. cool to room temperature.
browned all over with a Add the eggs one at a time, beat- Stagger the pans on the oven With an electric hand mixer,
kitchen torch (for more on ing well after each addition. racks so that no pan is directly whip the remaining cup cream
torches, see Test Kitchen, Add about one-third of the over another. Bake, swapping to soft peaks. With a spatula,
p. 91). Serves 16 flour mixture and mix on low and rotating the pans positions gently fold the whipped cream
FOR THE CAKE
speed until incorporated. Add after 15 minutes, until a toothpick into the filling.
half of the coconut milk and mix inserted in the center of each
8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, ASSEMBLE THE CAKE
softened; more for the pans until incorporated. Continue add- cake comes out clean, 25 to
Put a cake layer on a flat serving
13 oz. (3 cups) unbleached ing the flour mixture and coconut 30 minutes total. Cool on racks
platter or a cake stand lined with
all-purpose flour milk, alternating the two and end- for 10 minutes. Invert the cakes
strips of waxed paper to keep it
4 tsp. baking powder ing with the flour. Add the sour onto the racks, remove the
clean while icing. Top the layer
tsp. kosher salt cream and mix until incorporated. parchment, and cool completely.
with half of the filling, spreading
1 cup unsweetened coconut Pour the batter into a large bowl. MAKE THE FILLING it evenly with an offset spatula
milk, well shaken and at room In a clean mixer bowI and using In a medium bowl, whisk 1 cups almost to the cakes edge. Repeat
temperature the whisk attachment, beat the of the cream and the egg yolks. with a second cake layer and the
1 Tbs. pure vanilla extract egg whites on high speed until Combine the sugar and flour remaining filling. Top with the last
2 cups granulated sugar soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. in a medium saucepan. Add cake layer.
2 large eggs, at room Using a spatula, gently stir a large the cream mixture and cook,
temperature spoonful of the whites into the MAKE THE MERINGUE
whisking, over medium heat until
23 cup sour cream, at room batter to loosen it, then fold the Put the sugar and egg whites in
smooth, 2 minutes. Bring to a
temperature remaining egg whites gently into the metal bowl of a stand mixer
simmer and cook, whisking, until
6 large egg whites, at room the batter. (make sure its clean) and set
thickened to a pudding consis-
temperature Divide the cake batter evenly over a pot of simmering water.
tency, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove
FOR THE FILLING among the prepared cake pans.
2 cups heavy cream
3 large egg yolks
cup granulated sugar
2 Tbs. unbleached all-
purpose flour
1 cup sweetened coconut
flakes, toasted
1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter,
softened
1 Tbs. pure vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
FOR THE MERINGUE
3 cups granulated sugar
1 cups egg whites (about 10
large), preferably pasteur-
spiked
ized, at room temperature meringue
MAKE THE CAKE Once the cake is frosted,
Position racks in the bottom and use your fingers to fluff
top thirds of the oven and heat and pull the meringue into
the oven to 350F. spikes all over the cake.
Work your way around the
Butter three 9x2-inch round
cake and keep at it until
cake pans and line each with a
youre happy with
parchment round. Butter the the results.
parchment.
In a medium bowl, mix the
flour, baking powder, and salt. In
a 1-cup liquid measure, mix the
coconut milk with the vanilla.
In a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat the

80 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


Whisk constantly until the sugar
melts completely, 3 to 4 minutes.
Rub a small amount between
your fingers to make sure all of
the sugar grains have melted.
Transfer the bowl to the mixer,
fitted with the whisk attachment,
and whisk at low speed until the
mixture becomes completely
opaque and begins to thicken,
about 4 minutes. Raise the speed
to medium and beat until thick-
ened to soft peaks that barely
hold their shape and flop over
when the beater is lifted, 5 to
7 minutes. Finally, raise the speed
to high and beat until glossy and
thickened to medium-firm peaks
that stand up stiffly but curl
slightly at the tip when the beater
is lifted, about 4 minutes more.
Using an offset spatula, apply
the meringue thickly over the
entire cakedont worry about
spreading it smoothly or youll
overwork the meringue (you may
not need all of it). Then, repeat-
edly poke your fingertips into the
meringue, pulling it into spikes all
over the cake. Remove the waxed
paper strips.
Using a kitchen torch, brown
dark chocolate and coconut popcorn
the meringue by holding the torch Popcorn as dessert? Why not, when its streaked with dark
2 to 3 inches from the meringue chocolate melted by the heat of the just-popped popcorn
and waving the flame over the and tossed with sweetened coconut. Serves 8 to 10
cake until its browned all over.
1 cup sweetened shredded the way and shake the pot back
coconut, such as Bakers and forth constantly once the
Angel Flake brand
heavy popping starts. After about
MAKE AHEAD cup popcorn kernels
3 minutes, the popping should
You can bake, cool, wrap, and 3 Tbs. coconut oil slow down; when you can count
store the cake layers at room 4 oz. dark chocolate (70%), to 5 without a pop, its done.
temperature for up to 1 day or chopped
Remove from the heat, and give
freeze for up to 1 month. You Fine sea salt the pot a final shake. Transfer to
can refrigerate the assembled a large metal mixing bowl. Toss
Position a rack in the center of
cake (without the meringue with the chocolate, coconut,
the oven and heat the oven to
topping) for up to 4 hours before and tsp. salt. The residual heat
300F. Spread the coconut on a
decorating it. Wait to make the of the popcorn should gently
large rimmed baking sheet and
meringue until youre ready to melt the chocolate, coating
bake until golden brown, about
finish the cake. the popcorn and coconut.
8minutes. Set aside to cool.
Put the oil and 2 or 3 popcorn Refrigerate for 5 minutes. Toss
kernels in a heavy-duty 4- to the popcorn to break up any big
5-quart pot. Partially cover and clusters. Refrigerate for another
heat over medium-high heat until 5 minutes and then toss again.
the kernels pop. Season to taste with additional
Add the rest of the popcorn salt.
kernels. Cover the pot most of

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 81
60seconds more (if the spices stick to the
beef rendang pan, add a little more oil to prevent burning).
Serve this Malaysian specialty with jasmine or basmati rice and naan. Rendang is Add the remaining cup oil and the flavor
typically very thick, but if you prefer a saucier dish, you can add a little water after base and cook, stirring, until the pure is an
adding the toasted coconut at the end. Serves 6 to 8 intense reddish brown, about 10minutes.
Raise the heat to medium, add the beef and
FOR THE FLAVOR BASE 4 tsp. palm sugar or dark brown sugar cook, stirring, to coat it with the spices, about
15 dried japones chiles or 10 dried chiles 2 tsp. table salt 2minutes. Add the coconut milk, tamarind
de rbol or 3 Tbs. sambal oelek cup tightly packed grated fresh coconut concentrate, lime leaves, and lemongrass
1 cups sliced shallots (from 4 large shallots) or unsweetened frozen coconut, thawed and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture
2 Tbs. sliced garlic cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, comes to a boil, about 5minutes.
1 Tbs. sliced peeled fresh ginger for garnish (optional)
Reduce the heat to low, add the sugar and
1 Tbs. chopped fresh or frozen and Lime wedges, for garnish (optional)
salt, and simmer, stirring occasionally for the
thawed galangal (optional) MAKE THE FLAVOR BASE first hour and then more frequently as the
FOR THE WHOLE SPICE BLEND If using dried chiles, steep them in hot water stew thickens, until the liquid is very thick and
4 whole cloves until pliable, 5to 8minutes, then slit and seed oil appears on its surface, about 1hours.
4 whole green cardamom pods them (use gloves). Put the chiles, shallots, The meat will not be fork-tender at this point.
2 whole star anise garlic, ginger, galangal (if using), and cup Meanwhile, squeeze any excess liquid from
1 3-inch-long cinnamon stick, water in a food processor and process to a the coconut with your hands. In a 10-inch
snapped in half coarse pure, about 3minutes (if using skillet, toast the coconut over low heat, stir-
whole dried chiles, youll still see little pieces ring constantly, until golden brown, about
FOR THE GROUND SPICE BLEND
of the skins). 10minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
2 tsp. ground coriander
MAKE THE SPICE BLENDS Stir the toasted coconut into the stew
2 tsp. ground cumin
In a small bowl, combine the cloves, carda- and then continue stirring until its incorpo-
2 tsp. ground fennel seeds
mom pods, star anise, and cinnamon pieces. rated and much of the liquid is gone, about
1 tsp. ground turmeric
In a second small bowl, combine the corian- 15minutes. Add 1cup water if you prefer a
tsp. freshly ground black pepper saucy consistency. Continue to cook, stirring
der, cumin, fennel, turmeric, and pepper.
FOR THE RENDANG frequently, until the meat is fork-tender, 20to
cup canola or vegetable oil; MAKE THE RENDANG 30minutes more (the oil will start frothing
more as needed Heat 2Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet or wok after 15to 20minutes).
2 lb. boneless top blade beef chuck (or over medium-low heat until shimmering hot. Remove the lemongrass, cinnamon pieces,
bottom or top round, flank, or sirloin Add the whole spice blend and cook, stirring star anise, and as many cardamom pods and
steak), cut into -inch-thick slices,
constantly, until the cinnamon sticks unfold cloves as you can find. Transfer the meat to
then cut into 1- to 2-inch pieces
(the cardamom may also crack open), 1to a serving platter and garnish with the cilantro
1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk
2minutes; dont let the spices burn. Add and lime wedges (if using). Beef rendang will
cup tamarind concentrate
another 2Tbs. of the oil and the ground spice keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator, but
3 wild lime leaves, thinly sliced
blend and cook, stirring constantly, until the expect it to become drier and more intense
2 medium lemongrass stalks, bruised as it sits.
mixture sizzles and becomes fragrant, 30to
with back of knife and tied in a knot

cooking beef rendang

1 2 3
Start by cooking the whole spicescloves, Stir constantly as you cook the ground spices The flavor base, a pure made from aromat-
cardamom pods, cinnamon pieces, and star to keep them from sticking to the pan and ics like garlic, ginger, and shallot, will sizzle,
aniseto infuse the oil with their flavor. burning. darken, and become very fragrant.

82 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


4 5 6
Stir the beef to make sure its well coated The tamarind concentrate and coconut milk The crowning touch is toasted coconut,
with the spices and aromatics; youre not will cook down slowly to become a very thick which blends into the sauce, adding extra
trying to brown it here. sauce that coats the meat. texture and flavor to the finished dish.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 83
test kitchen
                   

To crack a coconut, youll need a few


tools that arent usually found in
the kitchen.

84 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


TECHNIQUE

Cracking
a coconut
Fresh coconut takes some
effort to crack and grate, but
you will be rewarded with
great flavor. Choose one
thats heavy for its size. Its
three eyes should be dry, and
it should slosh when shaken.
Avoid coconuts that are gray
in color or that show wet
staining, a sign that the shell
is deeply cracked. A cracked
outer shell is fine as long as
the coconut sloshes and
doesnt look wet. Ready to
get cracking? Follow the steps
at right.
Youll need unsweetened 1 2
coconut if youre making the With a Phillips screwdriver, probe the eyes until Wrap the coconut in a kitchen towel, set it on a
Dried Cherry and Coconut you find the one that yields easily. Push the sturdy surface, and bash it with a hammer until it
screwdriver into this eye until you reach the liquid. cracks into several pieces.
Granola on p. 73. Either use
Then pull it out and shake the coconut juice into a
fresh coconut or check the cup. You can drink the juice or discard it.
baking aisle of your store.
Often there are many options
for sweetened coconut but
not for unsweetened. If your
store doesnt offer unsweet-
ened shredded coconut,
check health food stores.

TIP

How to toast and


store coconut
Spread grated coconut on
a baking sheet and toast in
a 350F oven until its a rich
golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes.
Stir every few minutes so the
coconut toasts evenly, and
watch carefully, as it can go
from toasted to burnt very
quickly. Cool on the baking
sheet before using.

Grated coconut keeps in the


refrigerator for about one 3 4
week or in the freezer for With a regular screwdriver or an oyster knife, pry With a vegetable peeler, remove the brown skin from
about three months. the coconut meat from the shells. If any pieces each piece of coconut. Now youre ready to grate the
resist, bake them at 350F for 10 to 15 minutes; coconut. Use a box grater if youre up for a little arm
they should then separate easily. workout, or a food processor if not.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 85
test kitchen

INGREDIENT

Oil-cured olives is sometimes flavored with spices


and herbs, adding other layers of
All olives, including the oil-cured ones flavor. Though these olives still have
in the Smoked Trout and Bean Salad a telltale prune-like exterior that
on p. 53, must be cured to be palat- comes from salt-curing, the oil
able. Thats because olives picked right rehydrates them, making them
off the tree have an unpleasantly bit- slightly plumper and meatier.
ter taste that curing mitigates. There Intensely flavored, oil-cured olives
are several mediums for curing olives, may be served on their own or added
including salt, brine, and lye. raw to salads. When cooking with
Oil-cured olives begin life as ripe themtheyre delicious in braises
(black) olives. Theyre first dry-cured consider adding them toward the
in salt, which makes them less bitter end of cooking because they can
while concentrating and enhancing become bitter if overcooked. Look
their flavors. Next, the salt is removed for them where other olives are sold.
and the olives are soaked in oil, which

TIP

Taste peas before buying


Shelling Peas are at their peak when spring turns to summer but before
peas is easy the days are truly hot. According to Farmer Lee Jones of The
Chefs Garden, Huron, Ohio, even half a day of hot sun can speed
OK, we admit it: Shelling peas is a bit
the conversion of sugar to starch in peas, both on the vine and
tedious, but its easy and worth every
off. In hot conditions, farmers sometimes shell peas to keep
second in prepping for delicious
them from overheating in the pod, which can act as an incuba-
recipes like the Pea and Mint Soup
tor. Whether youre buying peas shelled or in their pods, the
with Lemon Cream on p. 30. To do it,
important thing is to get a taste to ensure that theyre sweet; at a
remove the stem end of the pod, peel
farmers market, you can usually ask for a sample. If buying in the
the stringy fiber from the seam, pry
pod, youll need about a pound for a cup of peas.
the pod open, and run your thumb
along the interior to detach the peas.

86 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


THE GUT
COMPLETE

HEALTH
COOKBOOK
ES
100+ R E C IP LT H
A
FOR GUT HE
4-W E E K
MEAL PL AN
AL
N U T R IT IO N
AD V IC E

Everything you need to know about the gut


and how to improve yours

PETE EVANS
with HELEN PADARIN BHSc(Nat), ND, DN
Nutritionist and naturopath
test kitchen

INGREDIENT French green


Also called lentilles
INGREDIENT du Puy, French green
Quick- lentils hold their shape
well and make an
Salt-packed
anchovy
cooking attractive salad
or warm side dish.

lentils Theyre especially nice


as a bed for fatty fish
like tuna and salmon.
Lentils have a lot
going for them.
Olive-oil- They dont need
packed soaking, they Common
anchovy
cook in about brown
30 to 45minutes, Common brown len-
theyre good for tils are the mainstay
Know your you (soybeans are
of traditional lentil
soup because they
anchovies the only legume tend to fall apart and
with more protein), thicken the soup.
There are two kinds of anchovies
on the market: salt-packed and they have an earthy,
oil-packed. Though many gour- slightly sweet and
mets tout salt-packed anchovies peppery flavor
as being plumper and deeper in that pairs well with
flavor, they tend to come in large lots of other foods,
Beluga
tins and need to be skinned, fil- and they come in a So called because of
leted, and rinsed. Thats why we variety of sizes and their resemblance
colors, five of which to caviar, beluga len-
usually opt for skinned and filleted
tils hold their shape
oil-packed anchovies. When shop- are shown at right. and go well with fish,
ping for them for recipes such as Common brown particularly salmon
lentils, which youll because their colors
the Classic Caesar Salad on p. 23,
contrast beautifully.
choose a brand thats packed in need for the Lentils
olive oil (not vegetable oil) and with Indian Spices
preferably in jars, which allow you and Coconut on
to see the size of the fillets and p. 79, and occasion-
can be easily resealed. (Tinned ally French lentils
anchovies have to be transferred can easily be found
to another container after open- in supermarkets; Split red
you can find the Also called pink
ing; cover them with additional
lentils and, in India,
olive oil if necessary.) Although others in specialty masoor dal, split
anchovies keep indefinitely in the stores, inter- red lentils become
national groceries, very soft when
refrigerator, we recommend using
cooked, making
them within two weeks of open- and online. See them ideal for soups
ing, since after that their flavor p. 93 for mail-order and pures.
becomes very pungent. sources.

Spanish
pardina
Also called Spanish
brown lentils, these
hold their shape
well and make a nice
accompaniment to
chicken, duck, and
game birds.

88 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


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test kitchen

TECHNIQUE

Give your
herbs a shave
To quickly separate the leaves from the
stems of tender herbs like parsley, dill, or
cilantro, simply give the whole bunch a
shave.
Hold the herbs by the stems over a cut-
ting board, leaf ends angled down. With a
chefs knife, shear the leaves off the stems
using a downward shaving motion, turning
the bunch as you go.
This method will be handy for the
seasonal herb recipes on pp. 2431.

INGREDIENT

The best canned


tuna may come in a jar
Canned tuna in oil is great for quick
meals like the escarole and chick-
TECHNIQUE
pea salad on p. 15. We were curious
about which supermarket tuna
Rhubarb tastes best, so we collected all the
freezes well canned and jarred tuna we could find
in our local supermarkets and tried
If you make the recipes on
them side by side. Without knowing
pp. 6265 and end up having
which came from a can or a jar, we
extra rhubarb, freeze it.
overwhelmingly preferred the jarred
Frozen rhubarb thaws beau-
tuna samples (specifically the
tifully, and theres little dis-
Sclafani and Tonnino brands shown
cernible difference between
below). The jarred tuna contained
it and fresh, though frozen
bigger pieces, was richer tasting, and
may release more liquid.
had better texture. So next time we
To freeze, cut into pieces,
reach for canned tuna, it may very
spread in a layer on a rimmed
well come from a jar.
baking sheet, and freeze until
solid before transferring to a
container for up to 6 months.

90 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


EQUIPMENT

Kitchen torch
To make the Outrageous Coconut-Cream Meringue
Cake on p. 80, youll need a kitchen torch to brown the
meringue topping. If you dont have one of these
butane-fueled mini blowtorches, put it on your wish
listat $25 to $35, its an inexpensive addition to your
kitchen arsenal, and once you own one, youll find all
sorts of excuses to fire it up. You cant make a decent
crme brle at home without one, and its great for
charring small chiles, melting and browning cheese, or
browning crumb toppings on casseroles.
We have several torches in the test kitchen, but the
one we always reach for is the BonJour Chefs Torch.
Its easy to use and has an adjustable flame. Plus, unlike
some models, this torch has a switch that allows it to
stay lit without holding down the ignition button. To buy
it, see p. 93.

TIP

Cake success
Whether youre making the cake above Start slowly To keep dry ingredients Make sure your tools are clean When
(recipe on p. 80) or another favorite from flying out of the bowl as you mix beating egg whites for a meringue or
recipe, there are several steps you can them into wet ingredients, run the mixer foam cake, make sure your bowl and
take to guarantee the best results. Culled on low speed at first just until moistened whisk are spotless. Even a trace of fat on
from years of testing cake recipes, these and then ramp it up to the speed recom- your equipment can slow down foaming
are our best tips for great cakes. mended in the recipe. and decrease the overall volume.
Dont use cold ingredients Butter, Scrape often Even if the recipe Use straight-sided cake pans Some
eggs, and other dairy ingredients will doesnt say to do so, stop the mixer and cake pans are made with slightly slanted
blend better if theyre not refrigerator- scrape down the bowl and beater when- sidesnot ideal for layered cakes. Before
cold. Unless your recipe specifically calls ever it looks like your batter is blending you begin, make sure your cake pans
for cold ingredients, let them sit at room unevenly. are straight-sided so your finished cake
temperature until theyve warmed or will stack neatly. If you need to purchase
Use a scale Not only is a scale great
softened a bit. Dont let your butter get some straight-sided pans, we recom-
for measuring your ingredients, but it
too warm, thoughthe ideal tempera- mend Magic Line pans (see p. 93 for a
also makes dividing batter between
ture is around 65F, just shy of room mail-order source).
cake pans faster and easier. Start by
temperature.
weighing your mixing bowl. When your
Cream thoroughly Three to five batter is ready, weigh it in the bowl,
minutes of beating butter and sugar subtract the bowls weight, and divide
together may seem excessive when they by the number of pans you have to fill.
appear combined much sooner, but Then simply weigh that amount of batter
proper creaming is key to a light cake. into each panno messing around with
A lengthy creaming time ensures that measuring and scraping cups of batter
enough air bubbles are created to lift the into each pan.
cake. If youre using a hand mixer, add an
extra minute to your creaming time.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 91
CREDITS

Many of the recipes and photos in this issue have appeared previously in Fine Cooking. Listed here are the
original authors and issue numbers. Unless otherwise noted, all photos are by Scott Phillips.

Orange-Roasted Salmon with Lentils with Indian Spices and


make it tonight vegetables, steamed Yogurt-Caper Sauce, Molly Coconut, from Meatless All Day by
Grilled Flap Steak and Asparagus
with Barnaise Butter, Jennifer
and sauced Stevens, #89 Dina Cheney, photo: Kate Sears
Lemony Brown-Butter Sauce with Yogurt-Marinated Roast Chicken; Outrageous Coconut-Cream
Armentrout, #141
Chives; Peppercorn-Parmesan Spiced Yogurt Waffles with Meringue Cake, Rebecca Rather,
Pasta with Peas, Arugula, and
Cream Sauce; Lemony Tahini Toasted-Pecan Maple Syrup, #102
Prosciutto, Ali Edwards, #58
Sauce; Balsamic-Bacon Samantha Seneviratne, #108 Dark Chocolate and Coconut
Deviled Pork Chops, Lori
Vinaigrette Sauce; Curry-Yogurt Creamy Orange-Vanilla Ice Pops, Popcorn, Karen DeMasco, #138
Longbotham, #84
Sauce, Jennifer Armentrout, #78 Fany Gerson, #112 Beef Rendang, Susheela Raghavan,
Tuna, Escarole, and Chickpea
Spiced Lentil Soup with Herbed #116
Salad with Warm Herb-Garlic
Yogurt, Tony Rosenfeld, #62
Vinaigrette, Abby Simchak easy spring supper Cucumber, Fennel, and Roasted
Donovan, #134 Salad of Roast Chicken and Spring Potato Salad with Parsleyed
Chicken, Shiitake, and Watercress Vegetables with Lemony Dressing; Yogurt, Barbara Lynch, #92
Stir-Fry, Laura B. Russell, #140 Some of the recipes and
Garlic-Parmesan Bread; Goat
Almond-Crusted Halibut, Bonnie photos in this issue were
Cheese Spread with Herbs and
Jean Gorder-Hinchey, #116 excerpted from these books:
Olive Oil; Chocolate-Raspberry rhubarbs greatest
Cookies and Cream, Martha
Holmberg, #78
hits
preserving the season Strawberry- Rhubarb Compote
Recipes for Inspired VEGETARIAN MEALS
Twice-Marinated Mushrooms, with Vanilla and Cardamom;
Allison Ehri Kreitler, #98 eggs in 10 Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie; Rhubarb meatless
Smoked Salmon Salad with Soft- Brown Sugar Crumble; Cinnamon- all day
Rhubarb Muffins, Karen Barker,
Boiled Eggs; Pineapple Matzo Brei;
3 ways Curried Egg Salad and Cucumber #85
Grapefruit Slaw; Grilled Grapefruit
Sandwiches; Lemony Egg Soup
Halves with Honey, Brown Sugar,
with Peas; Spinach-Noodle Soup
and Pistachios; Grapefruit Curd,
with Poached Eggs; Tomato-
one simple method,
Abby Simchak Donovan, #134
Harissa Poached Eggs; Wild four delicious pasta Dina Cheney

Mushroom Salad with Fried Eggs; Meatless All Day by Dina Cheney
Scrambled Egg Torta; Poached
dinners (The Taunton Press, 2014);
repertoire Egg and Asparagus Toasts with
Ziti with Mushrooms, Pancetta, and photos Kate Sears; food stylist:
Classic Caesar Salad, Susie Peas; Spaghetti with Shrimp in Paul Grimes.
Lemon-Chive Beurre Blanc;
Middleton, #104 Curry Cream Sauce; Penne with
Shrimp, Bacon, and Egg Pancake,
Tomato Vodka Cream Sauce;
Layla Schlack, #134
Rigatoni Normandy, Bruce
seasonal herbs Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough, #50
Spring Vegetables with Garlic Dill
Sauce, Ronne Day, not previously
10 ways to cook
published with culture versatile coconut
Shrimp and Cannellini Salad with Smoked Trout and Bean Salad, Dried Cherry and Coconut Granola,
Tarragon Vinaigrette, Jessica Bard, Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns, Debbie Koenig, #126
#80 #136 Coconut Macaroons, Dan Cohen,
Cilantro-Pepita Hummus, Marge Yogurt Cake with Chocolate #134
Perry, #139 Ganache Frosting, from Big Buy Curried Coconut Rice Pilaf, Jennifer
Spring Vegetable and Potato Cooking by Tony Rosenfeld, photo: Armentrout, #57 Big Buy Cooking by Fine Cooking
(The Taunton Press, 2010);
Frittata, David Bonom, #71 Maren Caruso Chocolate, Coconut, and Almond photos Maren Caruso; food
Pea and Mint Soup with Lemon Tomato-Basil Tart with Yogurt Bread, Abigail Johnson Dodge, stylist: Katie Christ.
Cream, Annie Wayte, #92 Custard, Cheryl Sternman Rule, #125
Jasmine Rice with Toasted Pine Nuts #141 Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp with
and Chives, Ronne Day, #136 Cucumber-Yogurt Dip (Tzatziki), Rmoulade Sauce, Joanna Pruess,
Susanna Hoffman, #93 #119

92 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


SOURCES

beef rendang, page 82 spiced yogurt wales,


From Penzeys.com, page 59
800-741-7787:
10-piece glass bowl set, $39.95,
Whole green cardamom
Williams-sonoma.com,
pods, $6.85 for a 0.5-oz. jar. test kitchen, page 84 877-812-6235.
Whole star anise, $4.89 for
Lentils, multiple varieties, from $3.49 per Waffle iron, Chefs Choice Classic
a 1-oz. bag.
1 lb., Kalustyans.com, 212-685-3541. Belgian Waffle Maker, $39.96,
From Templeofthai.com, Magic Line straight-sided cake pan, $6.59, Amazon.com, 866-216-1072.
877-811-8773: Sweettreat supply.com, 309-747-2125.
Tamarind concentrate, $4.99
for 14 oz.
Fresh wild (kaffir) lime
leaves, $5.49 for 1.5 oz.
Fresh galangal, $5.69 for
4 oz. grilled ap steak
Palm sugar, $3.99 for 1 lb. and asparagus
with barnaise
butter, page 13
Thermapen digital instant-
read thermometer, $99,
hermoworks.com,
800-393-6434.

outrageous coconut- smoked trout


cream meringue cake, and bean salad,
page 80 page 53
Kitchen torch, $27.99, Smoked trout fillets, $22
Bonjourproducts.com, for 1 lb., Wholey.com,
800-226-6568. 412-391-3737.

cilantro-pepita
twice-marinated hummus, page 28
Liebers Sesame Tahini, $4.49 for
mushrooms, page 18 17.5 oz., Rocklandkosher.com,
Pint-sized jars, $11.99 for 12, 855-756-7437.
Freshpreservingstore.com, Whole Foods 365 Everyday Value
800-240-3340. Organic Tahini, $13.97 for 1 lb.,
Amazon.com, 866-216-1072.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 93
NUTRITION

RECIPE CALORIES FAT CAL PROTEIN CARB TOTAL SAT FAT MONO POLY CHOL SODIUM FIBER
(KCAL) (KCAL) (G) (G) FAT (G) (G) FAT (G) FAT (G) (MG) (MG) (G)

MAKE IT TONIGHT, p. 13

Grilled Flap Steak & Asparagus with Barnaise Butter 430 250 38 3 28 13 12 1.5 115 360 1

Pasta with Peas, Arugula, and Prosciutto 620 250 30 60 28 12 11 2 70 2175 5

Deviled Pork Chops 650 270 85 6 30 10 14 2 230 870 0

Tuna, Escarole, and Chickpea Salad with Vinaigrette 510 210 41 36 24 4.5 11 3 40 1180 12

Chicken, Shiitake, and Watercress Stir-Fry 240 120 22 6 14 2.5 7 3.5 105 370 1

Almond-Crusted Halibut 590 420 32 12 47 6 31 7 105 390 4

PRESERVING THE SEASON, p. 18

Twice-Marinated Mushrooms 200 180 2 3 20 3 15 2 0 75 1

3 WAYS, p. 20

Grapefruit Slaw 170 80 3 21 9 1 2 6 0 25 8

Grilled Grapefruit Halves with Honey & Pistachios 330 130 4 47 14 7 5 1.5 25 55 7

Grapefruit Curd (per 1 Tbs.) 80 45 1 7 5 3 1.5 0 70 5 0

REPERTOIRE, p. 22

Classic Caesar Salad 260 160 8 17 18 9 6 1.5 45 760 4

SEASONAL HERBS, p. 24

Spring Vegetables with Garlic Dill Sauce 130 70 3 15 8 2 4.5 .5 5 330 4

Shrimp and Cannellini Salad with Tarragon Vinaigrette 190 110 6 13 12 1.5 8 1.5 20 360 4

Cilantro-Pepita Hummus 220 130 7 16 15 2 7 4.5 0 260 4

Spring Vegetable and Potato Frittata 480 300 29 16 33 14 14 3 475 1010 2

Pea and Mint Soup with Lemon Cream 200 110 7 17 12 7 3.5 .5 35 240 5

Jasmine Rice with Toasted Pine Nuts and Chives 290 130 4 37 14 6 4 3 25 160 1

VEGETABLES, STEAMED AND SAUCED, p. 32

Lemony Brown-Butter Sauce with Chives 70 70 0 1 8 5 2 0 20 50 0

Peppercorn-Parmesan Cream Sauce 40 35 1 1 4 2 1 0 35 45 0

Lemony Tahini Sauce 45 35 1 2 4 .5 1.5 1.5 0 25 0

Balsamic-Bacon Vinaigrette Sauce 80 70 1 1 8 1 5 1 0 100 0

Curry-Yogurt Sauce 40 30 1 2 3.5 2 1 0 10 60 0

EASY SPRING SUPPER, p. 38

Salad of Roast Chicken & Vegetables with Dressing 510 325 34 15 36 6 22 7 85 550 5

Garlic-Parmesan Bread 370 190 8 38 21 11 6 2 45 650 2

Goat Cheese Spread with Herbs and Olive Oil 210 140 8 7 16 8 6 1 25 330 0

Chocolate-Raspberry Cookies and Cream 310 160 3 36 18 10 5 1 50 200 4

EGGS IN 10, p. 46

Smoked-Salmon Salad with Soft-Boiled Eggs 230 140 18 4 16 3 10 2.5 195 1020 1

Pineapple Matzo Brei 230 80 8 29 9 5 3 1 155 125 0

Curried Egg Salad and Cucumber Sandwiches 660 350 19 61 39 8 10 19 390 930 4

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre-
dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is
used. When the quantities of salt and pepper arent specified, the analysis is based on tsp. salt and 18 tsp. pepper per serving for entres, and 18 tsp. salt and 116 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

94 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


RECIPE CALORIES FAT CAL PROTEIN CARB TOTAL SAT FAT MONO POLY CHOL SODIUM FIBER
(KCAL) (KCAL) (G) (G) FAT (G) (G) FAT (G) FAT (G) (MG) (MG) (G)

Lemony Egg Soup with Peas 180 70 13 16 8 3.5 2.5 1 105 340 4

Spinach-Noodle Soup with Poached Eggs 500 160 30 60 18 3.5 9 4.5 195 1030 3

Tomato-Harissa Poached Eggs 360 130 14 44 14 3 8 2 185 790 7

Wild Mushroom Salad with Fried Eggs 400 320 11 12 36 14 16 3 230 620 4

Scrambled Egg Torta 380 210 17 24 24 9 10 3 305 620 5

Poached Egg and Asparagus Toasts w/ Beurre Blanc 380 270 10 16 30 17 8 3 245 500 1

Shrimp, Bacon, and Egg Pancake 290 80 43 6 9 2.5 3 2.5 415 570 1

10 WAYS TO GET CULTURE, p. 52

Smoked Trout and Bean Salad 310 170 14 21 19 3.5 6 9 30 500 8

Yogurt Cake with Chocolate Ganache Frosting 400 180 7 49 21 12 6 1 85 240 2

Tomato-Basil Tart with Yogurt Custard 360 220 11 24 24 12 9 2 140 500 2

Cucumber-Yogurt Dip (per 1 Tbs.) 15 10 1 0 1.5 1 0 0 0 30 0

Orange-Roasted Salmon with Yogurt-Caper Sauce 340 160 40 2 18 3 8 5 110 300 0

Yogurt-Marinated Roast Chicken 530 270 59 1 30 8 12 6 190 520 0

Creamy Orange-Vanilla Ice Pops 80 20 2 13 2.5 2 0 0 5 15 0

Spiced Yogurt Waffles w/Toasted-Pecan Maple Syrup 330 100 6 52 11 2.5 5 3.5 50 280 2

Spiced Lentil Soup with Herbed Yogurt 350 160 17 34 17 6 9 2 20 420 16

Cucumber, Fennel & Potato Salad with Yogurt 210 100 6 22 11 4.5 6 1 10 270 4

RHUBARBS GREATEST HITS, p. 62

Rhubarb Compote w/Vanilla (per cup) 50 0 1 13 0 0 0 0 0 15 1

Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie 630 260 6 87 29 13 9 4.5 50 150 4

Rhubarb Brown Sugar Crumble 430 120 3 77 14 8 3.5 .5 35 100 3

Cinnamon-Rhubarb Muffins 250 110 4 32 12 7 2.5 0 70 200 1

ONE SIMPLE METHOD, FOUR DELICIOUS PASTA DINNERS, p. 66

Ziti with Mushrooms, Pancetta, and Peas 620 250 17 72 28 12 12 2 60 180 5

Spaghetti with Shrimp in Curry Cream Sauce 670 250 36 66 28 11 11 3 225 410 6

Penne with Tomato Vodka Cream Sauce 590 250 14 62 27 12 12 2 60 240 4

Rigatoni Normandy 650 220 31 62 25 14 7 1 120 260 4

VERSATILE COCONUT, p. 72

Dried Cherry and Coconut Granola (per cup) 120 60 3 14 7 2 4 1.5 0 55 2

Coconut Macaroons 140 60 2 19 7 6 .5 0 5 95 2

Curried Coconut Rice Pilaf 359 130 8 51 15 4 7 2 1 226 2

Chocolate, Coconut, and Almond Bread 460 240 7 54 27 17 7 1.5 65 350 4

Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp w/Rmoulade Sauce 530 350 25 16 40 7 12 17 185 980 1

Lentils with Indian Spices and Coconut 630 190 25 89 22 13 2.5 4.5 0 390 19

Outrageous Coconut-Cream Meringue Cake 700 290 9 96 32 21 8 1.5 145 250 1

Dark Chocolate and Coconut Popcorn 200 120 3 17 14 10 2 0 0 150 3

Beef Rendang 640 410 28 28 46 17 19 7 50 840 7

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 95
RECIPE INDEX

Cover Recipe Fish & Shellsh


Spring Vegetables with Garlic Almond-Crusted Halibut .......................... 17
Dill Sauce ........................................................25
Beer-Battered Coconut
Shrimp with Rmoulade Sauce ..............77
Beef Orange-Roasted Salmon with
Beef Rendang ...............................................82 Yogurt-Caper Sauce...................................57
Shrimp and Cannellini Salad with
Grilled Flap Steak and
Tarragon Vinaigrette.................................. 26
Asparagus with Barnaise Butter .......... 13
Smoked Salmon Salad with
Soft-Boiled Eggs .........................................46
Pork & Lamb Smoked Trout and Bean Salad .............. 53
BLN (Bacon-Lettuce-
Tuna, Escarole, and Chickpea
Nectarine) Sandwich ................................ 98
Salad with Warm Herb-
Deviled Pork Chops .................................... 14 Garlic Vinaigrette......................................... 15
Shrimp, Bacon, and Egg Pancake........... 51

Ziti with Mushrooms, Pasta & Grains


Pancetta, and Peas .....................................67 Pasta with Peas, Arugula,
Leek, Mushroom, and
and Prosciutto ..............................................14
Goat Cheese Crostini ............................... 98
Poultry Penne with Tomato Vodka
Lentils with Indian Spices
Cream Sauce ............................................... 69
Chicken, Shiitake, and and Coconut .................................................79
Rigatoni Normandy .................................... 69
Watercress Stir-Fry ..................................... 16 Pineapple Matzo Brei .................................47
Salad of Roast Chicken and Spaghetti with Shrimp in
Scrambled Egg Torta................................. 50
Spring Vegetables with Curry Cream Sauce ................................... 68
Lemony Dressing......................................... 41 Spring Pea and Leek Fettuccine ............ 98 Spring Vegetable and
Yogurt-Marinated Roast Chicken ..........57 Potato Frittata ..............................................29
Ziti with Mushrooms,
Tomato-Basil Tart with
Pancetta, and Peas .................................... 67
Yogurt Custard .............................................55
Tomato-Harissa Poached Eggs ............. 49
Vegetarian Mains
Curried Egg Salad and
Cucumber Sandwiches............................ 48 Breakfast
Caramelized Nectarines with
Rosemary Maple Syrup ............................ 98
Cinnamon-Rhubarb Muffins ...................65

Dried Cherry and


Coconut Granola .........................................73
p. 46
Grapefruit Curd............................................ 21

Grilled Grapefruit Halves


with Honey, Brown Sugar,
and Pistachios .............................................. 21
Papaya Smoothie ....................................... 98

Poached Egg and Asparagus


Toasts with Lemon-Chive
Beurre Blanc.................................................. 51
Scrambled Eggs with Leeks
and Goat Cheese........................................ 98
Spiced Yogurt Waffles with
Toasted-Pecan Maple Syrup ...................59
p. 28
Cucumber, Fennel, and Roasted Potato Lemony Tahini Sauce .................................35
Salad with Parsleyed Yogurt .................... 61
Papaya-Tomatillo Salsa ............................98
Curried Coconut Rice Pilaf.......................75
Peppercorn-Parmesan
Dark Chocolate and
Cream Sauce ................................................34
Coconut Popcorn ....................................... 81
Strawberry- Rhubarb Compote
Garlic-Parmesan Bread ............................43
with Vanilla and Cardamom ....................63
Goat Cheese Spread with
Herbs and Olive Oil .................................... 44 Desserts
Grapefruit Slaw ............................................20
Caramelized Nectarines with
Jasmine Rice with Toasted Rosemary Maple Syrup .............................98
Pine Nuts and Chives ..................................31 Chocolate, Coconut, and
Spring Vegetables with Garlic Almond Bread ..............................................76
Dill Sauce ........................................................25 Chocolate-Raspberry
Salads Sugar Snap Pea and Cookies and Cream ....................................45
Classic Caesar Salad ..................................23 Couscous Salad ...........................................98 Cinnamon-Rhubarb Muffins ...................65
Sugar Snap Peas with
Green Papaya Salad ...................................98 Coconut Macaroons .................................. 74
Jcama and Mushrooms............................98
Salad of Roast Chicken Twice-Marinated Mushrooms................. 18 Creamy Orange-Vanilla Ice Pops ...........58
and Spring Vegetables with
Dark Chocolate and
Lemony Dressing......................................... 41
Shrimp and Cannellini Salad with Sauces & Toppings Coconut Popcorn ....................................... 81
Outrageous Coconut-Cream
Tarragon Vinaigrette...................................26 Balsamic-Bacon
Meringue Cake ............................................. 80
Smoked Salmon Salad with Vinaigrette Sauce ........................................36
Rhubarb Brown Sugar Crumble .............65
Soft-Boiled Eggs ..........................................46 Cucumber-Yogurt Dip (Tzatziki) ............56
Smoked Trout and Bean Salad ...............53 Roasted Nectarines
Curry-Yogurt Sauce ....................................36
with Gorgonzola ...........................................98
Tuna, Escarole, and Chickpea
Lemony Brown-Butter Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie ...........................64
Salad with Warm Herb-
Sauce with Chives .......................................32
Garlic Vinaigrette..........................................15 Yogurt Cake with Chocolate
Wild Mushroom Salad Ganache Frosting ........................................54
with Fried Eggs ..............................................50

Soups & Stews


Lemony Egg Soup with Peas....................48

Pea and Mint Soup with


Lemon Cream.............................................. 30
Spiced Lentil Soup with
Herbed Yogurt ............................................. 60
Spinach-Noodle Soup with
Poached Eggs ...............................................49

Side Dishes
Braised Sugar Snap
Peas and Radishes ......................................98
Cilantro-Pepita Hummus .........................28

p. 63

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 97
W H AT W E R E C O O K I N G N OW

Springs Stars
Twelve ways to use four seasonal ingredients we cant get enough of.

Leeks
Leek, Mushroom, and Goat
Cheese Crostini
Saut sliced leeks and mixed fresh
mushrooms in plenty of butter; Sugar Snap Peas
season with salt and pepper.
Season soft goat cheese with Braised Sugar Snap
salt, pepper, and chopped fresh Peas and Radishes
herbs. Spread the goat cheese on Melt some butter in a skillet and
toasted baguette slices and top add sugar snap peas and quar-
with the leek mixture. Serve as an tered red radishes. Add a little
hors doeuvre. chicken broth and cook, partially
covered, until the radishes are just Nectarines
Scrambled Eggs with Leeks and tender. Stir in a splash of sherry
Goat Cheese Papaya vinegar and top with chopped Caramelized Nectarines with
Saut chopped leeks in butter fresh mint, tarragon, or chervil. Rosemary Maple Syrup
until tender. Add lightly beaten Papaya Smoothie Sear nectarine halves cut side
eggs, crumbled goat cheese, Blend diced ripe papaya Sugar Snap Pea and down in a hot cast-iron skillet
and fresh herbs (lemon thyme is with plain yogurt, sweetened Couscous Salad with a touch of peanut oil. Boil
especially good). Scramble and condensed milk, brown sugar, Prepare couscous according to rosemary sprigs in maple syrup
serve warm with a green salad and vanilla extract, ground cinnamon, package directions. Fluff with a to infuse. Drizzle the syrup on top
toasted baguette. and ice. If the smoothie is too fork and stir in lots of thinly sliced of the nectarine halves and serve
thick, thin it with a little regular milk sugar snap peas. Toss with a sesa- with a dollop of crme frache.
Spring Pea and Leek Fettuccine or water. me dressing made from seasoned
Boil fettuccine in well-salted water rice vinegar, soy sauce, chili sauce BLN (Bacon-Lettuce-Nectarine)
until al dente; drain, reserving Papaya-Tomatillo Salsa (like Sriracha), Asian sesame oil, Sandwich
some of the pasta water. Saut In a small bowl, combine diced and toasted sesame seeds. Melt some Gruyre on a piece of
sliced leeks in butter with salt and ripe papaya, diced tomatillo, toast. Spread another piece of
pepper until soft. Add shelled minced jalapeo (seeds and ribs Sugar Snap Peas with Jcama toast with mustard. Make a sand-
peas and lemon zest and cook removed), and chopped red and Mushrooms wich with crisp pieces of bacon,
until tender. Stir in the pasta, onion. Toss with fresh lime juice, Saut mushrooms until just baby greens, and pitted, sliced
some of the cooking water, and a little olive oil, chopped fresh tender. Add sugar snap peas, nectarine.
fresh lemon juice to taste; season cilantro, and salt and pepper. julienned jcama, and sliced
with salt and pepper. Garnish with Serve with tortilla chips. scallions. Saut until the peas are Roasted Nectarines with
thinly sliced mint leaves. crisp-tender. Season to taste with Gorgonzola
Green Papaya Salad salt and pepper. Slice firm-ripe nectarines into
Toss grated or julienned green sixths and toss with olive oil,
(unripe) papaya with fresh lime honey, salt, and pepper. Roast
juice, fish sauce, chopped fresh until barely softened, sprinkle
mint, chopped peanuts, and crumbled Gorgonzola on top, and
minced fresh Thai chiles. This then continue to roast until the
salad makes a great bed for stir- cheese starts to melt. Serve warm
fried chicken or shrimp. over a lemony arugula salad, along
with crusty bread.

98 COOKFRESH SPRING 2017


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